Reddit mentions: The best gardening hand tools

So for a real answer, yes, you can improve it but it will take time, effort, money, and commitment. The hardest thing will be establishing new grass (unless you sod) and keeping the dogs off of it for ~2 months so it can grow in thick as a nice base.

I would definitely mix clover into the seed mix (~10-15%), it does better with providing low height cover and dealing well with iffy soil and wear. You need to find a high traffic / wear resistant turf that can self repair. So seems like a kentucky bluegrass/self reparing TTTF mixture (~20/80) will be for you.

It will need intense care both with resources (fertilizer, water, maintenance) and time (mowing, dethatching, aerating), but it will be possible to have a very nice yard. You will get worn spots, thing spots, maybe brown urine spots, but overall you can make it look very good on your own.

Start in the spring and plan this all out. This is optional but I would use glyphosate (roundup) and kill all the existing grass to start new. Probably will take 2-3 applications 5-7 days apart (need 7-10 days before putting grass seed down). Then remove all that dead material with a rake or dethatching tool. Either rent, hire someone (~$40-100), or hand core aerate next. I would absolutely add 1/4-1/2 inch of quality top soil for a nice base. Then lay the seed down (and gently rake into the top soil) then add starter fertilizer. Get bulk peat moss and spread it out thinly (~1/4 inch) over everything. Peat moss will help retain mositure, prevent birds from eating the seed, and just protect it will it germinates. Then, water, water, water. Goal is to keep the seeds moist (not soaking wet). Water 2-3x a day for 10-15 min. Just to get the ground nice and wet and keep it moist. Do this for 2-3 weeks until the grass is growing. The fescue should sprout in 3-10 days, and the bluegrass can take up to 25 days or longer, but be patient. Mow when it starts to get too talk and looks like it will fall over. This will actually stimulate rapid growth and allow smaller grass to get light and fill in. Once all is good you will need to water once a week minimum for 25m or so to keep it alive and from going dormant. For fertilizer, easiest is to use an organic slow release like Milorganite or other organic fertilizer 4x a year (or follow their label for application times).

It's tough, but you will need to stay off of it as much as possible. If you start getting grass growing and they're still thin and small blades, the dogs will trample, kill it, and ruin your efforts.

This will be a heavy commitment as you can see and you'll really need to evaluate if it's worth your time, effort, and money. It's also not a guarantee the dogs won't kill it still, but to me it's worth it, especially when it's wet outside so the dogs are muddy/dirty all the time.

You can also have sod laid down ($$$) but you still need to care for it with watering and nutrients so the roots take hold. The wear from the dogs is also likely to hinder it.

This is what has been recommended to me and seems to work:

Dwarf white or dwarf purple isopods are a good bet because they are generally too small for the ackie to notice and are tolerant of the high temperatures in the cage. I would consider getting maybe 10-20 and establishing a culture in a tupperware tub before introducing some into your ackie's enclosure. I have also had good luck with powder orange isopods. All three of these isopod types appear to breed pretty quickly so they should take off.

As far as springtails go, as with the isopods you want to establish a culture and let the population grow for a little bit before you begin adding bunches into the enclosure.

Some other tips:

• Add magnolia leaves (or any other good hardwood leaf) to your enclosure. As they decay they feed your isopods/springtails, but I also like them because they look nice in the enclosure and they appear to add enrichment for the ackie. My ackie likes to sniff them, flip them over, rustle them, just generally interact with and explore them. I got a bag of magnolia leaves off amazon.
  
  
• I was advised to get cuttlebone or sepia bone and place tiny bits in my cultures and the places in the enclosure where my isos/springtails hang out most. These items are super calcium rich, and isos/springtails benefit from it.
  
  
• Ensure your substrate is moist. Do not let it be super damp (especially toward the top,) but the substrate should be dark and more cakey down toward the bottom of the enclosure. I invested in a gardener's moisture meter to make sure the soil is moist enough.
  
  
• When misting or adding moisture to your substrate, consider using filtered water rather than plain tap water. If your tap water is well water or something, it may not be necessary, but for a lot of people like me unfiltered municipal water has a lot of chlorine and things in it that can be detrimental to the balance of the soil.
  
  Here are some helpful videos that should give you all the general info you need for establishing a bioactive enclosure:
  
  
• How to make an isopod culture
  
  
• How to culture springtails
  
  
• How to create a bioactive desert terrarium for ackies

This spring I started a garden on my deck in Philadelphia. This was really the first time I gardened anything seriously and I’ve enjoyed myself immensely. Skip to the bottom for the album of it all.

I primarily started my plants from seeds without researching how they grow:

• Sugar Baby Watermelon
  
  
• Burpless Cucumbers
  
  
• Sungold Cherry Tomatoes
  
  
• Campari Tomatoes
  
  
• Spaghetti Squash (purchased plant)
  
  
• Green Bell Peppers (purchased plant)
  
  I quickly realized that I needed to be creative about how to manage these plants as a lot of them grow out instead of staying compact. Once the plants outgrew their medium sized pots, I needed a different solution. The major unlock for me was finding CaliKim's container gardening videos on YouTube that recommended planter bags. She also has a great method of making cage trellises that work perfectly in the bags she recommended.
  
  
• Container Gardening Video (there are more!)
  
  
• DIY Cage Trellis Video - I followed this one almost exactly
  
  
• Welded Wire fencing for the cages
  
  
• VIVOSUN 20-gallon planter bags were a major unlock to getting this system to work. The mobility is awesome. The red one with the spaghetti squash is a different brand (Root Pouch?) and is only 15-gallons. I strongly recommend getting 20-gallons for vegetables as they like deep routes for the most part. My squash is doing fine, but it’s definitely been slower than the bigger bags
  
  
• Half-Pallets I got for free from work to help get my plants off the ground and avoid rotting and promote drainage
  
  With this starting point I was able to get these plants into a compact space and still be able to thrive. Because I’ve got everything on top of each other there is some inter-mingling but for the most part things stay in their cages.
  
  My deck faces south and with the egregious Philadelphia summer I sometimes have to water twice a day to keep everything happy. I have done a lot of pruning to keep the plants reigned in and not way overgrow their plot.
  
  As the project progressed I realized I needed bamboo stakes to stabilize the cages and my non caged plants, and a few other random items listed below:
  
  
• Bamboo stakes for stability
  
  
• Velcro ties to guide plants where needed
  
  
• Shears for pruning
  
  
• Garden Netting used to make watermelon hammocks
  
  The watermelon needed hammocks to fend off gravity in this system, pole around YouTube for different ways people have done this
  
  In my research I got disheartened several times because many said growing watermelon or cucumber or squash in a compact space is extremely challenging and arguably not worth it. At that point I had already started the plants and I decided to give it a try anyway. To my delight things have turned out very well, and I wanted to share with any other urban gardeners who think they don’t have enough space for veggies.
  
  Next year I would grow more cucumbers and cage them instead of stake them (or maybe both). For the winter my plan is to leave the bags and soil outside and see how they hold up. It seems like they are able to handle snow / excess moisture without too much issue.
  
  https://imgur.com/gallery/jCqiEQH

These are my suggestions - feel free to ask more questions if you need anything!

Read these guides (not by me) - I wish I had had something like this when I started: http://homegrow-pro.com/quantum-board-build-grow-tent/ And this one: http://homegrow-pro.com/the-3x3-grow-tent-setup/

The links and suggestions below are oriented for Canadians, so feel free to ask for alternatives.

Essentials

• Grow Tent: 3 ft x 3 ft x 6 ft is the size you'd probably want. This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMKIO
  
• Light: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Pre-assemabled-Kingbrite-2019-newest-samsung_62123342418.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.14.161358f6VLfhlM This light is a fantastic LED quantum board that is very easy to assemble - I got the 3000K one with the epistar, but this one has the better CREE version
  
• Fabric Pots: Head to Amazon and grab yourself a 5-pack of 7 gallon fabric pots https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Gallons-Thickened-Nonwoven-Handles/dp/B00TF9E9PY/
  
• Also get yourself a saucer (you can get this at any garden store) and a pot elevator for each pot (pot elevator example: http://amazon.ca/Gro-Pro-725675-Level-Elevator/dp/B01J37FHF8/)
  
• Soil: Get yourself a bail of Pro Mix HP with mycorrhizae (it's cheap, reliable, and hard to overwater) from Canadian Tire, Rona, any store really and get also a bag of earthworm castings. Cover the bottom of your fabric pot with the castings (2-3 inches deep) https://www.homehardware.ca/en/20l-organic-worm-castings/p/5025712
  
• Nutrients: Gaia Green Dry Amendments (All Purpose and Power Bloom) Mix the All Purpose in with your Pro-Mix HP and then top dress your "soil" every month, changing it to Power Bloom during flowering https://www.canadiangardensupply.com/gaia-green-all-purpose-4-4-4.html https://www.canadiangardensupply.com/gaia-green-power-bloom-2-8-4-power-bloom-2-8-4-2kg.html
  
• Ventilation: Get the AC Infinity Cloudline T4 - it's absolutely worth it. Then purchase a 4-inch carbon filter and 4 inch tubing from Amazon (branding doesn't matter for these two things) https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T4-Ventilation/dp/B06ZXWN3BG https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-Dual-Layer-Aluminium-Ventilation/dp/B071LHCFZ8 https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Australia-Charcoal-Pre-filter-Included/dp/B01DXYMBU6
  
• Timer: You can go cheap on this, but also consider a smart timer (like a Wemo) https://www.amazon.ca/Insight-Switch-Enabled-Compatible-Amazon/dp/B00EOEDJ9W
  
• Seeds: Jahseeds.ca - Canadian breeder, amazing beans, amazing price! Go with feminized seeds for your first round. https://jahseeds.ca/shop?olsPage=t%2Ffeminized-seeds
  
  
  Extra accessories
  
  
• 2 fire extinguishers (one for just outside tent, one for outside the room, where the tent is located)
  
• Pruning shears (seperate ones for trimming live plants and ones for harvesting) https://www.amazon.ca/Pruning-Gardening-Straight-Stainless-Precision/dp/B076HL5JJM
  a lighter (for sanitizing)
  
• a set of tweezers, for planting your sprouted seed
  
• some garden gloves
  
• rope ratchets for your lights
  
• zips ties for protecting things
  
• binder clips (for low stress training)
  
• plant ties (soft rubber and wire kind)
  
• watering can
  
• two pairs of measuring spoons for dry amendments
  
• a clip on fan and rotating fan (for air circulation over and under the canopy)
  
• markers and a pack of tag plant markers for identifying plants
  
• soil moisture https://www.amazon.ca/Soil-Moisture-Sensor-Meter-Hydrometer/dp/B014MJ8J2U
  
• paper towels (for germination)
  
• Bucket Head Wet Dry Vacuum Powerhead Lid for 19 Litre (5 Gal.) Multi-Use Buckets great for gathering up the excess water and tipped soil) https://www.homedepot.ca/product/bucket-head-wet-dry-vacuum-powerhead-lid-for-19-litre-5-gal-multi-use-buckets/1000666690
  
• 3 five gallon buckets (1 for the buckethead vacuum and 2 for extra water reservoirs) and two lids
  
• 3 surge protector power bars
  
• Various AC power extension cables
  
• 1 trellis net (for ScrOG training)
  
• USB microscrope (used to check the trichomes at harvest - if you want you can also get an adapter so it plugs directly into your smartphone, as opposed to plugging it into a computer) https://www.amazon.ca/Jiusion-Magnification-Endoscope-Microscope-Compatible/dp/B06WD843ZM
  
• 62% Boveda packs for curing
  
• Mason jars for curing and storage
  
• hanging rack for drying (you can substitute this for a hanger and some plant ties)
  
• Duct tape
  It's a little more expensive at the start, but this setup will pay for itself within two harvests.
  
  
  With this setup you can expect to yield between 8 to 10 oz every run (even with autos), once you grow accustomed to the cycle.

Sure! I’m afraid I don’t have any professional tips, but I’ll give it a shot. Most of these guys are really small, the largest ones in the middle are about 2cm in diameter, so none of them have very large roots. I filled the pot about 2/3 of the way up with a perlite/pumice mixture and a little bit of soil, and then basically placed a plant and covered the roots up with the same mix. It was plant/cover until I had all of them generally where I wanted and thankfully the pumice/perlite was pretty forgiving if I needed anything to move slightly. I also found that a chopstick is a huge help for the tiny work! That or this set, the tweezers and little scoop are also very useful. I topped with a little more perlite, and the very top is a thin layer of black sand. Hope that helps!

A $210 pH meter strikes me as an extravagance for this level of grow. You can use pH strips or better off, use a small standard soil pH tester.

The 4 inch carbon filter will work, but it's going to need an inline fan and some ducting hose.

Personally, I'd just get a small grow tent that fits the dimensions of your closet, and scrap the mylar and poly film. Then you can duct the fan and filter directly into your tent.

The tent only needs to be about 3 or 4 feet tall. You can place it on a table or stand if you want. Then you can sit in a chair when you tend your plants.

Some sort of adjustable rope system to hang the lamps.

I've grown more than a dozen crops indoors, and I've never worried about adding CO2 to the grow space. I'm aware of the benefits, but this might be more of an advanced consideration. If you're looking to economize, this would be one thing I think you could definitely cut for at least the first few grows.

One thing that could benefit you might be Marijuana Horticulture by Jorge Cervantes. He's been updating and revising this book for 35 years. So it's pretty comprehensive, and it can take you from first grow all the way up to how to grow top shelf bud. It will tell you exactly what soil and nutrients you need, which can save you a lot of money versus overpriced fancy boutique nutrients and designer potting soils. And it can help you troubleshoot the inevitable problems when they occur.

Saved this comment from a fella in micro grocery to start my set up

These are suggestions - feel free to ask more questions if you need anything.

Read this guide - I wish I had had something like this when I started: http://homegrow-pro.com/quantum-board-build-grow-tent/ Read this guide too: http://homegrow-pro.com/the-3x3-grow-tent-setup/

Essentials

• ⁠Grow Tent: 3 ft x 3 ft x 6 ft is the size you'd probably want. This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMKIO
• ⁠Light: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Kingbrite-240W-samsung-lm301h-288v3-quantum_62120261175.html?spm=a2700.7803241.0.0.31d73e5fhFxf6a This light is a fantastic LED quantum board that is very easy to assemble - I got the 3000K one with the epistar
• ⁠Fabric Pots: Head to Amazon and grab yourself a 5-pack of 7 gallon fabric pots https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Gallons-Thickened-Nonwoven-Handles/dp/B00TF9E9PY/
• ⁠Also get yourself a saucer (you can get this at any garden store) and a pot elevator for each pot (pot elevator example: http://amazon.ca/Gro-Pro-725675-Level-Elevator/dp/B01J37FHF8/)
• ⁠Soil: Get yourself a bail of Pro Mix HP with mycorrhizae (it's cheap, reliable, and hard to overwater) from Canadian Tire, Rona, any store really and get also a bag of earthworm castings. Cover the bottom of your fabric pot with the castings (2-3 inches deep) https://www.homehardware.ca/en/20l-organic-worm-castings/p/5025712
• ⁠Nutrients: Gaia Green Dry Amendments (All Purpose and Power Bloom) Mix the All Purpose in with your Pro-Mix HP and then top dress your "soil" every month, changing it to Power Bloom during flowering https://www.canadiangardensupply.com/gaia-green-all-purpose-4-4-4.html https://www.canadiangardensupply.com/gaia-green-power-bloom-2-8-4-power-bloom-2-8-4-2kg.html
• ⁠Ventilation: Get the AC Infinity Cloudline T4 - it's absolutely worth it. Then purchase a 4-inch carbon filter and 4 inch tubing from Amazon (branding doesn't matter for these two things) https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T4-Ventilation/dp/B06ZXWN3BG https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-Dual-Layer-Aluminium-Ventilation/dp/B071LHCFZ8 https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Australia-Charcoal-Pre-filter-Included/dp/B01DXYMBU6
• ⁠Timer: You can go cheap on this, but also consider a smart timer (like a Wemo) https://www.amazon.ca/Insight-Switch-Enabled-Compatible-Amazon/dp/B00EOEDJ9W
• ⁠Seeds: Jahseeds.ca - Canadian breeder, amazing beans, amazing price! Go with feminized seeds for your first round. https://jahseeds.ca/shop?olsPage=t%2Ffeminized-seeds

Extra accessories

• ⁠Pruning shears (seperate ones for trimming live plants and ones for harvesting) https://www.amazon.ca/Pruning-Gardening-Straight-Stainless-Precision/dp/B076HL5JJM
• ⁠a lighter (for sanitizing)
• ⁠a set of tweezers, for planting your sprouted seed
• ⁠some garden gloves
• ⁠rope ratchets for your lights
• ⁠zips ties for protecting things
• ⁠binder clips (for low stress training)
• ⁠plant ties (soft rubber and wire kind)
• ⁠watering can
• ⁠two pairs of measuring spoons for dry amendments
• ⁠a clip on fan and rotating fan (for air circulation over and under the canopy)
• ⁠markers and a pack of tag plant markers for identifying plants
• ⁠soil moisture https://www.amazon.ca/Soil-Moisture-Sensor-Meter-Hydrometer/dp/B014MJ8J2U
• ⁠paper towels (for germination)
• ⁠Bucket Head Wet Dry Vacuum Powerhead Lid for 19 Litre (5 Gal.) Multi-Use Buckets great for gathering up the excess water and tipped soil) https://www.homedepot.ca/product/bucket-head-wet-dry-vacuum-powerhead-lid-for-19-litre-5-gal-multi-use-buckets/1000666690
• ⁠3 five gallon buckets (1 for the buckethead vacuum and 2 for extra water reservoirs) and two lids
• ⁠3 surge protector power bars
• ⁠Various AC power extension cables
• ⁠1 trellis net (for ScrOG training)
• ⁠USB microscrope (used to check the trichomes at harvest - if you want you can also get an adapter so it plugs directly into your smartphone, as opposed to plugging it into a computer) https://www.amazon.ca/Jiusion-Magnification-Endoscope-Microscope-Compatible/dp/B06WD843ZM
• ⁠62% Boveda packs for curing
• ⁠Mason jars for curing and storage
• ⁠hanging rack for drying (you can substitute this for a hanger and some plant ties)
• ⁠Duct tape

It's a little more expensive at the start, but this setup will pay for itself within two harvests. With this setup you can expect to yield between 8 to 12 oz every run, once you grow accustomed to the cycle.

Definitely sounds like a moisture issue! I don't know how big your pot is, but once a week sounds like a lot. The bigger the pot, the longer you'll need to wait between watering to really let the soil dry out. I recommend a moisture meter (I just got this one) to really understand what's going on with your moisture levels.

Not sure what kind of leaf deterioration you're seeing, but I was having an issue with all of my new growth at the bottom of the plant falling off and/or molding. I had to switch from watering weekly to every 2 or so weeks for my 6" pot, based on my moisture readings.

I also like to use cactus soil for almost all of my plants because it drains super well. I've heard that Miracle Gro isn't an ideal soil line to use, but haven't tested that theory. In some cases, soil can prolong moisture retention and not allow the plan to dry out as quickly as is ideal.

Brace for rant.

Alright, you have a shit ton of survival knives and machete's to choose from, but for my money I have always loved Cold Steel's products. For your case I would recommend Cold Steel's Bushman knife and Kukri Machete.

Bushman: http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Bushman-Cordura-Survival/dp/B0015RQI7Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381631382&sr=8-1&keywords=cold+steel+bushman

Kukri Machete: http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-97KMS-Kukri-Machete/dp/B000FJRR2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381631412&sr=8-1&keywords=cold+steel+kukri+machete

Here is why.
First off they can both take a lot of punishment and keep going. Prove it you say? Well the fine people and cold steel do that for you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaTbOGcsXoE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xq1EFWVV3C0

And here is the best part. Both of them are so cheap, If I break one tomorrow beyond repair (Highly unlikely by the way) I'm not out a whole lot of money. I can buy another one without loosing sleep. That's a good thing with a work knife, I don't know about you, but a piece of equipment I paid a lot of money for I'm much more careful with. I treat my bushman like a 1950's drunken dad with his redheaded step child, and that's what you want to be able to do with a survival knife. I want to be able to toss the fucker in the mud, use it to clean small or large game, and then use it as an impromptu tent peg. I will warn you though, Haole_Boy does bring up a good point about the handle. It does get very uncomfortable when used for a while. But that's easly fixed with some para cord, or if you want, go and grab some handle tape for a tennis racket.

As for your question about the pros and cons of a kukri vs a hatchet; I find each tool has it's up and downs. My camping bag has both the kukri machete and a hatchet. I find that the heft of the hatchet helps when cutting through actual logs, while the kukri is good for cutting through medium sized tree limbs. But honestly, if i had to drop weight, I'd drop the hatchet. I can power through the log if I had to with the kukri machete. Not as comfortable, but doable.

Energy drinks are my favorite self-indulgent treats. Other little things for myself are cute earrings, stationary supplies like pens and washi tape, enamel pins, or makeup. I adore the Korean and Japanese makeup that comes in the cutest packaging. Most of that stuff I do not get on Amazon though.

I like getting stuff for my cats, too. I recently bought [one of these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DT2WL26/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1). One of my cats loves it, the rest are mostly indifferent. Still worth it.

I also recently bought this set of succulent gardening tools to help me manage my growing succulent garden. It's very handy!

Using this RANDOM teapot from my kitchen/baking/food list would make me most seem like an old posh Englishman. Pip pip!

RANDOM "oh god, I would never be seen with this in public" item from the kitchen/baking food list... because I would ALWAYS be at home baking with it!

This is a very "phallic" towel. Yeah. From the RANDOM things list.

This Star Trek cookbook from the Books list is the geekiest RANDOM thing =D

These would certainly help me in my quest to learn how to crochet! From the crafting list. Uhm... RANDOM!

This would be the best thing to bring to a RANDOM deserted island. From the RANDOM things list.

<3<3 COOL contest! I tried to use the word "random" more than you lol. Clearly.

I can’t tell if this is a shitpost or not
In the case it isn’t:

Clean up the space over your desk. Most of that can go in a drawer or somewhere else

Fix your cable management. it looks like my olive garden leftovers. keeping with the garden theme, I use tomato velcro. It’s not great for looks but it’s $5.50 for 45 feet of the stuff and if you hide them well it won’t matter. There are plenty of videos on youtube for how to cable manage well, but iirc TechSource made a good video about it.

Clean up your keyboard tray. Just wipe it down with a paper towel or something I can see the dust in the pics

Pick up your trash. at least have enough decency to pick up the cans from the top of your desk because no one cares you drink pepsi.

If you took the time to clean up your setup would look infinitely better

I used to use fiskars religiously. I still do occasionally but I mostly use these now...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P0FK7W6/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1526068853&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=trim+scissors&dpPl=1&dpID=51x9w7rkW%2BL&ref=plSrch


I was looking to get another pair of fiskars and came across these. There work better than fiskars IMO bc they fit in your hand better. Plus they are cheap and clean easily

I like to sharpen my axes with a file this one works well. I have different axes for felling and splitting yours looks like it has a hollow or concave grind in my experience these don't make good splitting axes (sorry) but where you are just using it for kindling it should be fine. I like to sharpen my splitting axes with a more robust edge think cleaver vs fillet knife. And just sharp enough that if you push on it and slide your hand down it will cut you so pressure won't break the skin and sliding your thumb along the edge won't cut you but both will. Good luck

Edit: watch this at 17:15 he is done hanging the head and begins in on sharpening

Well I have bad news for you. You do indeed have St. Augustine, but that's not the bad news. The bad news is that St. Augustine does not tolerate traffic will well, so your dog is probably going to rip your lawn to shreds and wear it down to nubbins. To compound the bad news, St. Augustine seed is virtually nonexistent. I've only ever heard of it being planted by sod or plugs, and a quick Google search didn't readily return good results for St. Augustine seed. If you want to keep this grass type, expect to spend a fair amount of money in replacement sod.

If you want to keep it though, here's what you can do in terms of basic care.

• Apply milorganite 5 times a year: early spring, late spring/early summer, mid-summer, late summer/early fall, and mid fall. If you want to save money you can cut that down to three times a year, in spring, mid summer, and fall. This weekend would count as the late spring/early summer application.
  
• Get a soil test done. Not sure where in Texas you are, but Texas A&M can do it, or you can go with any of the various commercial labs. This will give you an idea of what's going on in your soil so that you can fix any nutirent deficiencies. There's also the cheapo soil test, but that probably won't give you the detail you need, nor will it have recommendations on remediation like the other labs will.
  
• Put down roughly 1/2 pound of nitrogen in fertilizer every month. This video can show you how to work the numbers on the fertilizer bags to work out how much that is.
  
• The guy that made the video in the last bullet point, The Lawn Care Nut, just moved to Florida and is currently redoing his yard with St. Augustine, so his videos will be pretty applicable to you. I strongly recommend you watch through them.
  
• Mow at a height of about 3 inches. St. Augustine seems to do well there.
  
• Water as needed. Some of the St. Augustine specialist people will tell you to only water when the grass starts to show some signs of stress, and then water heavily. That might be once or twice a week. Also, check your watering laws. Some places have restrictions on when you can water and for how long.
  
  That's all I really got. I'm not too knowledgeable on St. Augustine, so I can't really help you any more than that. But I did find this publication by A&M that you might find useful. If you have any more questions, ask away. We'll be here.
  
  Edit: some typos.

Happy Birthday, Happy Birthday, /u/Sp3cia1K!

A machete totally relates to /u/Sp3cia1K. See, she's been been hard at work doing all the behind the scenes work on the bomb. And a bomb is a weapon. Just like a machete. Also, I think she's really sharp :)

I can help with that. As long as you're using coco.

A perfectly moist solo cup of 100% coco weighs 280g. If you were to stick a moisture meter in the cup it would be sitting on the cusp of the blue Wet zone, but not in to it. When it gets down to about 240g a meter would read right on the cusp of Dry and now its time to water again, and bring it back to 280g. You are basically oscillating between the cusp of wet and dry, back and forth.

there is a myth out there that moisture meters dont work and for some reason all these newbie growers are missing out on a great tool to help them grow. And it will help them avoid the number one plant stunter out there - over watering. You have to rub off the oxidation with a pot scrubber once in a while. And check its accuracy once in a while by doing this esp if you are getting weird readings. get a cup of your medium medium that is dry and stick the probe in and it better be in the dry zone. Then add water until you think its medium moist and check the meter. It should be in the middle. Then fully water the cup and you should see the meter read Wet. Its easy. I have done this so many times I know how much they should weigh. Its hard to pick a cup and feel its weight because its small. Pots I can do that, but not cups, yet. This isn't really a calibration. Its a check. And if its off, then I throw the meter out and grab a new one.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B014MJ8J2U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Be careful with using wire twist ties like that for plant staking since they do not have any give. Ideally want to use something like this that has a bit of stretch to it otherwise make sure the tie is loose enough to allow for growth.

http://www.amazon.com/Thick-Stretch-Plant-Garden-Green/dp/B00DG75DS8

Congrats on the fruit, peppers are by far my favorite thing to grow.

Hey, you seem very knowledgeable. Would this be a good test kit?

https://www.amazon.ca/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524508048&sr=8-2&keywords=lawn+test+kit

Also, I moved into a new house last fall. The grass in the front yard has some bald spots that I would like to try and remedy. When is the best time to hit this with fresh soil and grass seed? When is the best time to fertilize? Also, how to you pick which grass seed to buy? Thanks for any help with this.

> When do I need to stake them up?

The sooner the better. If you do it early, though, and use any kind of restrictive thing to attach it to the stakes, remember you'll have to periodically loosen.

> What is the best solution for this?

No idea. I used 6 foot stakes and velcro last time I grew tomatoes. Obviously you'll need to support the tops of those stakes somehow.

> What do I take out the smaller stems to allow for just one plant or continue with multiple?

Absolutely thin them. Choose the healthiest looking one, obviously. Tomato are big plants.

hahaha I am TOTALLY being a helicopter parent with this plant. How odd, but I have no shame. :) Thank you for the encouragement! I do not have a moisture meter. Is this the type you are referring to?

​

https://www.amazon.com/Alotpower-Moisture-Hygrometer-Outdoor-Battery/dp/B06XC6QD3B/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=moisture+meter+for+plants&qid=1558549066&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

I will take suggestions for any type you think works best. Seems like a simple addition to the plant room!

A moisture meter like this one is very helpful and inexpensive. They're used by beginners and experts alike, and recommend by many pros. The back of the package usually lists the recommended readings for common types of plants. It takes out the guesswork.

Using larger/deeper plastic saucers at watering time may help you. They're inexpensive. Also, if you switch from top-watering to bottom-watering, you'll never overflow at all.
Happy growing! 🌿

Here's the link to it! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D88DLB0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A youtube channel I like called Succulents and Sunshine recommended it, and honestly it's probably the best $5 I've ever spent.

These are the ones I got and I've been pretty happy with them so far. I'd love to get some nice forged ones someday though.

Can we be best friends??!

I have an idea for experimenting with Mead lees for fertilizer. Think straight up 4th grade science fair type stuff. Bean plants, same soil, same light, measuring how tall they get over a period of time. I think I'll start with a pure mead and experiment with various dilution amounts. Then I might go for a second round (once I've decided on optimum dilution from the first round) with various types of flavored mead. What I'd really like would be to test the contents of the lees for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium levels so I could compare it to fertilizers. So I'll probably buy something like this!

We could go into alcohol experimentation business together!

I would have to kindly disagree. The BIFL part of a traditional axe head is that you can easily rehang(replace the handle) it yourself. What if Fiskars stops honoring their policy like so many other "BIFL" brands? Then you be stuck up shit creek without paddle. Give me a piece of wood and a rasp and I can make a handle in less than an hour.

The other gripe I have about the Fiskars (I own one myself) is that they vehemently tell you to never use the back end as a striking tool. It makes since, once you realize how the head is attached to the handle, and this to me takes away half the use of the tool. That said, it hasn't stopped me from using the back end for striking in a pinch, just not something you should be doing with it.

EDIT: If you want to downvote me, please entertain me with reasons why I am wrong. I hand make tools and use them a lot. I have used these type of axes as well as traditional ones and I feel like my arguments are sound based on first hand experience.

EDIT #2: Checked out Fiskars website on their warranty info. It appears that all axes sold now are covered for 25 years. I wouldn't consider that BIFL in my book. What happens is the plastic in the handle breaks down after time and exposure. Eventually it will break. Fiskars is betting that will be more than 25 years down the road.

EDIT#3: In spirit of what this is is all about, I would recommend a Husqvarna in any size and style with a wooden handle. They are Swedish made, and use a traditional design, allowing the purchaser to replace the handle. If you don't care to make a replacement handle yourself, they can be bought for less than $10 at any hardware store or on Amazon.

Can I start off by saying that this well researched, well organized, informative post is a breath of fresh air compared to the "These balls mean its female, right?" and "Got clone, wat do guyz, lol" type posts, thank you for that.

I'd advise you skip the cheapo fan controllers and go with a Mercury 4 to maintain way tighter temp control. These controllers will raise and lower your fan speed to maintain a 10 degree swing. Or go full bore with the Arduino and control it with that.

A variac fan controller is also a good alternative to the cheap ones.

I'd also recommend a 6 inch setup as they're much more prevalent in home improvement stores. A six inch fan moving the same amount of air will also be quieter.

Consider Jack's hydro 321 if you're concerned you're paying a bit too much for Scott's brand bottled water... I mean GH nutes, sorry, I get confused sometimes.


I like these scissors.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sago-Brothers-Pruning-Scissors-Trimmer/dp/B00P0FK7W6/ref=pd_sim_86_23?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M6MNMDEB9656STMBFWVM

A 40x loupe will be hard to get pics with. People seem to have good luck with those phone attachment macro lenses.

You may need a temp controller for the seedling mat, but I've read of people using pencils under their seedling tray for a little air gap.

There is only one type of Zoysia that can be seeded in that is Zenith I believe. Every other one is sod/plugs.

I would just plug it if the holes aren't too large or you aren't impatient. I have Empire Zoysia that has been established for about 7 years and it's near indestructible besides our dog who has dug it up here and there. But every year I can repair it easily.

Any of those dug up spots or spots that for some reason weakened, I use a sod plugger. What I do is take it from the healthiest most dense part of the lawn in the growing season and put it in the bare spots. Then I keep it watered like new sod for 2 weeks or so. During the dead of summer is not good though. Mid June is probably the latest.

The holes left from the plugger are undetectable after a week or 2 of growth. I fill the holes with just some compost and soil I pulled with the plugger. With the transplanted area, I use the tool to make the holes, salvage soil/sand from it, mix it with compost and push the plugs in on top. I will also spot add liquid fert (like miracle grow for lawns) just to kick start it's growth to establish much faster. It does create a greener spot but that will dissipate.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MRTVUI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pgcQAbKFT595X - That's the plugger I use.

Good luck!

My understanding is that core aerators work much better than spike aerators. You could get one of these, but I've heard they can clog pretty easily, especially if you have a lot of clay in your soil. For me, it was actually cheaper to have a lawn care company come out ($50) than it would have been to to rent an actual plug aerator.

If you want to grow bermuda in the back, the tree has got to go. Shade = bermuda death. Otherwise, there's a couple of options that are left open to you, and are completely do-able with a little effort and time.

I've always said that if your desired yard is more than 50% crap, you need to renovate. The cost of money that you spend on selective herbicides to try to salvage the desirable grass outweighs the cost of killing off everything, and starting fresh, whether with seed or sod. Whatever you do, if you decide to go this route, don't till up the ground; when it settles in, you'll have a bumpy as hell yard, and you'll be bringing dormant weed seeds back to the surface to compete with your new seed/sod.

It's a good thing put out the pre-emergent, so you won't have to contend with nearly as many summer weeds, just make sure you put down a Fall PreM, so you won't have poa and other nasties next winter/spring.

>I would love that golf style turf and easily maintained. This mowing every other five days has gotta stop.

Hate to break it to you, but golf courses mow every day. I mow my bermuda lawn every other day during the summer, when I'm not using a growth regulator. Bermuda loves to be mowed low and often.

If you want a low-maintenance option, I'd suggest centipede. It requires low inputs (mowing, fert) grows pretty thick, like St. Aug, and is pretty affordable.

The other option you could do is get a ProPlugger, and start taking plugs from your front yard, kill off a section in the back, and transplant the plugs to the rear. Much less expensive, and you'll get the same grass type all over. I've used this method with great success in my back yard, where the dogs run all over, and I'm not ready to renovate that area, but still want some turf to take over where weeds used to be.

rip them out with a Garden Weasel Step and Twist Hand Weeder, Chemical Free Weeding, 36” Long, Red & Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3RRSCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hwe4CbNR2JZY8

or a Nisaku NJP650 Hori-Hori Weeding & Digging Knife, Authentic Tomita (Est. 1960) Japanese Stainless Steel, 7.25" Blade, Wood Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007WFG2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Kwe4CbNXVR3WP

do it during spring when they first appear and you'll mostly be fine for the season cause it keeps them in check. It's when you allow then to seed that it gets outta hand.

Crabgrass though.....that's another story.

A 3-way soil tester will help as well because although lime will help break down the clay, adding too much base will throw off pH balance and impede microbial growth. They're pretty cheap, as seen here: https://www.amazon.com/Sonkir-Soil-Moisture-Tester-Gardening/dp/B07BR52P26

Terra cotta pots suck the soil dry, I don't use them unless it's for succulents. I would repot this in fresh potting soil inside a different container with a drainage hole. If this guy's soil usually looks this dry, and if it's more than 5ft from a super bright-ass window it won't grow. Everyone severely underestimates how close plants have to be to a window. And no growth is a sure sign of underwatering. If it was getting enough water but not enough sunlight, it would grow, just weirdly.

If you want zero guessing involved, I would read up on what that plant likes and pick up a super cheap moisture and light meter like this one from Amazon. Has saved me a lot of trouble when I have to check if a big plant is dry or if the sunlight isn't strong enough.

You can try bone meal, but the only way to tell if there is a nutrient deficiency is to test the soil. I used this kit and it was pretty simple.
As for pests, there are plenty of sprays available. Regardless of which one you choose, the important part is to be consistent and don't stop when you first see an improvement. There are still eggs that will hatch and start the whole process over again.

It kinda sounds like he has a lot of stuff and that you don't necessarily know every tiny thing he has / uses / lurves, which is understandable, because people who really think on their EDC-type stuff often buy and trade a lot of crap. I'd almost suggest trying to get out of the EDC-items box and getting him The Axe Book or Back to Basics, both of which cover skills around outdoorsy things. AB will cover how to cut down all kinds of trees with an axe; BTB covers all kinds of homesteading, food growing, basic skills required for such. Both have lots of neat illustrations and seem to come from pretty competent writers. The Axe Book has made me want to get a decent axe, which obviously isn't an EDC item, but it's a nice to have one. If you get something like that, just keep in mind, axes aren't made out of stainless steel, so he'll want some mineral oil / gun-lube type oil to keep rust away.

Otherwise there's always Celox and an Israeli combat bandage for the 'super bad emergency contingency' part of one's EDC. I like to have something like that in my day bag or in my car, just in case.

Getting professional testing takes a couple weeks.

I used this one off Amazon; gives results in a few minutes. It told me that my soil was completely depleted of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. I threw down a bunch of Urea and Phosphate; my research said to not worry about potassium. And then I put down a ton of composted manure to fix the soil structure and add some organic material because my soil was heavy on clay (yours looks heavy on sand and could probably use it as well. Then I rented a tiller and went to town.

I don't remember how much fertilizer I put down, but I based it off recommendations I found on the internet easy enough. For compost I used approximately 4 cu ft per 100 sq ft of lawn.

I can't say whether or not it made a difference, but my lawn is about 2 months old and it looks amazing.

Hijacking the top comment to say check out this awesome MacheteSaw

It's only 20 bucks. I definitely want one of these for camping. I also just have a thing for machetes, they're useful and awesome at the same time.

Japanese garden knife: https://smile.amazon.com/Japanese-Garden-Landscaping-Digging-Stainless/dp/B0007WFG2I?sa-no-redirect=1

Great for collecting. I hope your friend wasn't collecting in a park, though. That's usually not allowed!

> e

Awesome, any recommendation on a soil test kit? something like this? https://www.amazon.com/MoonCity-Moisture-acidity-Gardener-outdoors/dp/B017GQ9VVY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473276406&sr=8-2&keywords=soil+test

any sort of article or process to follow after this on what to do? sorry I am pretty inexperienced in this field.

I don't know, mine works very well. Maybe yours is broken?

Sorry, on my phone but I have this one: Sonkir Soil pH Meter, MS02 3-in-1 Soil Moisture/Light/pH Tester Gardening Tool Kits for Plant Care, Great for Garden, Lawn, Farm, Indoor & Outdoor Use (Green) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KP-wDbHT4Q2K7

No, the orange handled ones, those look painful to hold. The orange ones are lightweight and there is no spring so it doesn't dig into your hand after a full day of trimming. My trim speed got faster too but I try not to trim if I don't have to anymore, lol! Make sure to get the curved ones too they do a good job of getting deep in the bud without having to mess anything up.

I don't know why everyone uses weird shit.

I use Plant Training Tape.
That's designed for this exact use.


I can see advantages to using twisty ties or something but the training tape is best IMO.

You can easily tighten or loosen it and it naturally stretches a bit to allow the plant to grow.

https://www.amazon.com/Thick-Stretch-Plant-Garden-Green/dp/B00DG75DS8

Thanks, I picked [this one](Sonkir Soil pH Meter, MS02 3-in-1 Soil Moisture/Light/pH Tester Gardening Tool Kits for Plant Care, Great for Garden, Lawn, Farm, Indoor & Outdoor Use (Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ep5pDb3T1PGV9) so hopefully that does everything I need it to

I got one of these and use it to help with watering. Its pretty awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cxGtDb2VK2P51

It was a good harvest. I weighed them this time wet. Got 500 grams total wet weight off of 3 dwarf/stunted surprise autos.

I am very impressed now with Dewey. 200 grams wet weight and she was only 9 inches tall. I did lose one of her top buds to bud rot. Sad - other than the fact I grew a bud big and bad enough to rot - yeah me.

I tried some new trimmers this time. I have a set of the fiskars but I bought a pack of Sago Brothers Bonzai trimmers. (https://www.amazon.com/Sago-Brothers-Pruning-Scissors-Trimmer/dp/B00P0FK7W6).

I can't recommend them enough. Sharp and easy to use for small hands. And when I found the bud rot I just tossed the pair I was using to the side and grabbed a fresh pair. Upped my hygiene game immediately.

Kevin smells a bit grassy (not unpleasant) but Huey and Dewey smell like diesel.

4 more weeks and the Hash Plant should be done. Bubble Hash everywhere.

Getting down to brass tacks, though, I highly recommend the Cold Steel Kukri machete. I picked one up about a year ago and although it doesn't come with the sharpest blade, it is really easy to hone.

It's awesome quality, comes with a sheath, and the kukri shape combined with an 18" blade makes cutting off even the largest of arms a snap!

Not OP, but I had the same issue with mine. I finally used a soil moisture meter similar to this one to check on soil's humidity, every few days, to make sure soil has some moisture. Marantas don't tolerate well dry soil, so the meter helps me keep it alive, without over-watering it.

I test the soil in my gardening bed. I'm too scared to test the rest of my yard's soil, hah. This is the tester I use-- it's pretty fun!

The first year I found out my soil was low in Nitrogen so I amended with blood meal. This year I only amended with composted manure and things seem pretty happy.

this one is REALLY good! https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-576926201-Curved-Handle-Multipurpose/dp/B004WJGXAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467604448&sr=8-1&keywords=husqvarna+axe

A Good hatchet! https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-576926401-13-Curved-Hatchet/dp/B004VLKLJE/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M2MACRPSRKX1VZSM8FJ2

If you want a great axe and not pay a crap ton for a Hultafor or Gransfors Bruks I highly recommend Husqvarna axes. They are made with Swedish steel and have decent handles. I keep a 26" Multipurpose in my vehicle and it has served me well.

I have all my plants in porous clay or terracotta pots and I'm probably watering the varieties you mentioned about every 10 days to 2 weeks. They do get completely dry in between, but as long as the plant isn't drooping, I wait.

I also use a moisture meter -- I find it's great to use in larger pots because sometimes the soil looks dry on top, but it's still wet deep inside the plant, so it helps prevent over-watering.

I have a hand held spike aerator and I can't really say that it helped or did much of anything this season. I've since bought a core aerator with a good grip. I usually have a core aeration service do this but I would also like to have something onsite to do this whenever necessary. It works really well for my soil actually.

https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-ID-6C-Coring-Aerator/dp/B00EOMCJD6/

Lots of good questions here!

> I put down a scotts crabgrass preventer and lawn food a few weeks ago and am aware I should fertilize again in the summer I think?

Yes but it depends on temperature. Synthetic fertilizer can stress the lawn when it is very hot. You can apply an organic slow release like milorganite or ringer which is lower in nutrients and is less likely or won't burn your lawn in high heat.

> I've though about aerating or dethatching but don't want to disturb the preemergent layer and am not sure if I need it. How do you tell if should dethatch or aerate?

Unless you can run your hand through the lawn and scrape up a fist full of thatch, you don't need to dethatch right now. You can dethatch and aerate in the fall as part of your winter prep.

> I've sprayed almost 2 gallons of roundup weed and grass killer on it over the last few days and there is still a lot of green, should I just give a week or so to see what all dies (I thought it would be faster acting)?

About 1 gallon per 300 square feet is sufficient so you've potentially more than doubled what you needed to put down (assuming 40% glyophosate strength). Hold off on applying anything else. Water this area really well. Roundup (glyphosate) is absorbed through the green leaves so it will be slow to act if the target plant is not actively growing. Give it three weeks before you reassess. It takes time.

> From reading online I'm thinking I should put down a broadleaf preemergent on the old mulch soon and also apply some kind of fertilizer to all the shrubs and bushes before the mulch gets put down.

You can use Preen either on top of the new mulch or on top of the old mulch before new stuff goes down. It's activated after the first rain or watering I believe so it will make it's way into the soil. It works by stopping root development in new plants so it won't effect established plants. Its safer than spraying a broad weed killer or pre-em since that may damage some shrubs.


> What kind of fertilizer should I use and how much?

You can use all-purpose miracle grow liquid which is easy to mix or use in the hose spray bottle. Another option might be Osmocote which is a slower-release all purpose fert in pellet form.

> I have some bags of composted steer manure I was thinking of just putting a mound around each plant underneath the weed barrier fabric.

That can work too.

> The old mulch I should say isn't very thick so I am just planning on leaving it.

No problem.

> Can I do all this without collecting, sending out, and paying for soil samples for each of these areas?

Yes. You can also get the diy soil test kit probably not as accurate as a lab but will give you an approximation.


*Edit - also yes, it will feel overwhelming and you won't get all of it done in the first year. Maintain what you have an improve in small chunks. It will come together.

Well I can say with some confidence that you're overwatering it. It's allowed to get a little dry on the soil surface. Tomatoes like it moist, not wet, so a good rule of thumb is always to water when you feel it dry about an inch into the soil (like stick your finger in). Tomatoes do need water, yes, but they also need oxygen and drowning won't allow them to "breathe". You also risk washing out nutrients needed by watering so much. Think of a sponge. You want the roots to be as moist as a wrung out sponge - still moist but not dripping from holding all that water in it.

Without looking too much into it (there are many number of things that can affect a plant and sometimes similar symptoms will have completely different causes), I would take a guess that it's a nutrient deficiency. If you've got other plants, it might be fun/worth it to get one of these kits to test it.

In lieu of that, since you're probably using standard potting soil from Home Depot which is usually fine I'd say re-pot it and stick to a slower watering schedule. Also don't forget to fertilize regularly and watch out for various insects throughout its growth.

I use these Sago Brothers Bonsai Pruner Pruning Scissors for Bud and Leaves Trimmer 5 PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0FK7W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w1xrzb280M4BH

Super cheap and sharp and work perfectly for trimming

I use the brush in this set. It is super soft and gets all the dust/dirt off my plants. Sometimes, i use the empty water container to blow air to the hard-to-reach spots. It also has tiny tools you can use when repotting small plants. 😊

You’re welcome. THIS is the test kit I bought last time I ran into soil issues and it helped me figure out my problems pretty easily. The pH test kit in it is very easy to use. The NPK tests are a little more involved and take longer to do.

wow, this is a crap ton of data on that site! I can't even figure out how to find those 3 things. Anyway, can I just pick up a test kit from Amazon? https://smile.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/

I'm lazy and getting stuff shipped to my home is easier than taking soil somewhere, lol

There are a ton of axes out there that fit your profile straight out of the box. You're just looking for a European style forest axe.

This is your best "budget" option.

These

are

some

... pricier options.

Don't ruin a perfectly fine American axe trying to replicate a European axe. There's no reason for it.

As for whether your design is good for "camp tasks," well, that depends. You'd need to define some things.

1. What kind of camping? Are you driving out or hiking? If you're driving out, don't fuck around. Bring a full sized axe.
   
   
2. What kind of "camp tasks" are you going to be doing? If you're just going to be limbing for smaller firewood, then even a hatchet will do you well. If you're going to be felling, bucking and splitting whole trees, then car or hike you're better off with a full sized axe. Bucking is a ton of work and a heavier axe helps the tool do the work rather than your arms. If you watch this dude's axe content, you'll see that even he (who prefers smaller axes) does note that you really have to whip smaller axes to get the same effect as a larger axe.
   
   
3. What kind of wood are you working with? If you're working with tough hardwoods, American axes are made to deal with that type of wood better than European/Scandinavian axes that are mostly tooled towards pines and other soft woods.
   
   
4. How much experience do you have with using axes? American axe patterns tend to be a little more forgiving of bad technique since they're bulkier and often not hardened quite as much. (They're still heat treated, but a softer edge is easier to sharpen though it does dull faster.) European axes tend to be a bit harder, but that means they're harder to sharpen and if you chip them (say, on an overstrike or an imperfection in the tree) they're much harder to work out.

Yeah for sure. Buy something like this. You'll get an idea if your lawn is depleted of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, or Potash. You'll also get a measurement of the soil's pH level.

I'd fix the soil first. Thick, lush grass depends on healthy soil.

For most garden plants, the best watering strategy is to water deeply and infrequently. This means soaking the ground enough that the water gets down past a few inches to the root level. If you do this your plants will only need to be watered about once or twice a week.

Adding a few inches of mulch around the plant base can do wonders as well to regulate the soil temperature, keep weeds out, and also keep the water in the soil from evaporating.

Lastly, you can easily test the moisture, pH, and how much sun your plants get with one of these handy meters:

Atree Soil pH Meter, 3-in-1 Soil Tester Kits with Moisture,Light and PH Test for Garden, Farm, Lawn, Indoor & Outdoor (No Battery Needed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R4RPS54/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P0FK7W6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527029595&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bonsai+shears

These are by far my favorite for trimming sugar leaves. Super precise and razor sharp, makes it really easy to cut leaves precisely. Use any type of larger shears or scissors for stems and branches.

has there been any improvement over the past month? HERE is an article about proper care for your plant.

You stated that you only water when it seems dry but the article suggests once a week deep watering so that may be an issue. you also dont want to risk over watering so make sure your pot has good drainage at the bottom.

I highly suggest getting one of THESE and placing it in the pot to keep an eye one the light, water, and Ph levels.

I would go with the gerber gator machete. I have had one in my fishing bag fora few years and it works great for clearing brush, even small to medium sized trees. Easy to sharpen, solid chuck of metal. I have a second one in my "just incase the world ends" bag.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B004A1IXRC/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1

For my UK brethren I got this one the other day, it's amazing

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CompuCleaner-Xpert-Electric-Air-Duster/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486823546&sr=8-2&keywords=compucleaner

You can get a cheaper one though

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ITdusters-com-EGP-COM-011-CompuCleaner-Electric-Duster/dp/B00S7CH6FK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486823546&sr=8-1&keywords=compucleaner

So glad I bought it, inside my PC looks brand new now :D

Sonkir Soil pH Meter, MS02 3-in-1 Soil Moisture/Light/pH Tester Gardening Tool Kits for Plant Care, Great for Garden, Lawn, Farm, Indoor & Outdoor Use (Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR52P26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FgLiDbZFW49K4

So I did the soil test kit that I bought. According to it the pH of my soil is at least 7.5, maybe a bit higher and the nitrogen content isn't detectable it's so low. Everything else looks good. I find it to be a bit odd considering the container is full of a rough mel's mix I put together of peat moss, vermiculite, compost, composted manure, and mushroom compost.

What would you recommend I do to the soil? As of right now the only ferts I have are 9-12-12, 4-15-14, and some miracle grow spray stuff that is 12-4-5.

Yeah I think especially when the plant tries to reach for light they will poke into it. There’s special plant tape available for this purpose. Check this out, it expands with the growth of the plant. https://www.amazon.com/Thick-Stretch-Plant-Garden-Green/dp/B00DG75DS8?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

My Monstera came like this and it was already vining which made it even droopier so I attached it to a moss pole with plant-safe velcro (this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057567U0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) zip ties work too, just make sure you are not attaching them too tightly, leave plenty of space so you don't cause circulation issues :)

How do the leaves feel? I'm not terribly experienced but if they're soft and limp (derp) then you're over-watering, crisp and under-watering. Both will have the same sag \ limp. Feel the weight of the pot and feel the soil a couple inches down to confirm if it needs water or not.
Get a soil kit like this and test your PH \ Nutes. Dial in your nutrients and correct the PH.
For the lighting, if money is an issue, you can add some CFL (2700k) for the cool color spectrum.

Check out garden velcro. I use it for my girls in smart pots. It grips the fabric perfectly for LST.

Looking great! Can you share any tips on watering? I'll be doing my first grow in Jan and don't want to over or under water. I'll be using these to monitor soil moisture.

How do you really use those? I bought this one from amazon and I compared it to putting my finger a little bit deeper in the soil (as in not just placing my finger on top) and it pretty much read that the moisture was in the middle for all of them, even when I just watered and even when they needed watering. It has good reviews though so I'm not sure if it's just the meter.

https://www.gemplers.com/product/ARS320/ARS-Grape-Scissors

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chikamasa-B-500sf-Stainless-Steel-Scissors-w-Fluorine-Coating-Resin-resistant/263795173535?epid=8016915205&hash=item3d6b6ae89f:g:IAQAAOSw7XNbPLH5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0FK7W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DeANBbJVTGJQ5

Heres what i grabbed except i got the curved and angled blade versions of the first two. Theres lots of other good ones though too im sure. I havent even tried these ones yet though so i cant really recommend them lol its just what i ordered after researching it.

soil test, amend as needed. clay is usually acidic, require lime added but there's only so much you should add each time so it might take a while to get it just right.

add compost. lots and lots of compost. you can till then add compost and till again, if you're buying enough. otherwise you can just dump on top like 2 inches, which is still going to be a truck load.

for drainage, look into dry wells, including building a trench dry well--essentially a trench with stone.

then once you establish a lawn, aerate on a regular basis and never let it dry out completely. continue to soil test and amend as needed yearly.

edit: also, once you do your soil test, you can either amend the soil to grow what you want OR just plant what grows in the soil you have. Daylilies generally grow well in clay.

Rapitest 716756 1601 Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash
by Amazon.com
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_qDjzCbR5W60SH

Get this on Amazon. The HD link is OOS. Make sure you saturate your lawn to easily get the cores out. 1 to 1.5 hrs of watering would be good.

https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-Dethatching-Aeration-ID-6C/dp/B00EOMCJD6

Not OP, but I've been a houseplant enthusiast for almost as long as a pc gaming enthusiast. Believe it or not, it is far more preferable to underwater your plants than to over water your plants, unless very specifically told otherwise on a plant to plant basis. Most tropicals and succulents are very resilient and can withstand drought. At the same time, root rot from overwatering is the most common way people accidentally kill their plants. What you could do is stick your finger ~2 inches into the soil. If it feels bone dry you can water it then, or even wait another few days to water. If you see leaf wilt thats OKAY, just check the soil as its most likely super dry, and water it.

If you want super easy mode (and no shame at all if you do), grab one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Atree-Tester-Moisture-Outdoor-Battery/dp/B07R4RPS54/

Thats one of the best 15$ investments I've ever made for my house. Just go around checking each plant with that. If its dry, water it. If the dial moves even in the slightest, leave it alone.

Lastly, you WILL kill plants. It's just going to happen. Nobody has a perfect plant immortality rate. You'll get used to it. My recommendations for easy houseplants are:

ZZ plant

Snake plant

Pathos

You pretty much have to actually try and kill those plants for them to die.

Just keep it clean and not powered on constantly. Please don't use a vaccum though. I recommend getting an electric duster like this as compressed air cans don't last very long and can sometimes blow residue onto your components.

Something like this?: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=psdc_200925031_t1_B073F9NY1X

I was looking online for these things, and this seems pretty good. We have one can of compressed air, and my father says he can modify it so we can refill it when we need to, but getting this CompuCleaner seems easier; just plug in and use.

Such awesome axes.

Little spendy, and if you want to get one a little cheaper with little less fit and finish you can get a Husqvarna forest axe which is currently produced by Gransfors Bruks for Husqvarna, for about half the price of the full meal deal from gransfors

This is my pick for best trimming scissors. A spring on it would be nice but I'm ok without it.

Noticed my CPU and drive temperatures had increased recently, went to investigate and was welcomed with a huge cloud of dust as I opened the server!

Luckily no failures as I don’t think the issue was too bad yet.

Best tool I have found for the job, CompuCleaner Xpert. Cleaned out in about 2 minutes! - CompuCleaner Xpert - Electric Air Duster https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vtz5AbS3XR8XK

I am like 99% positive its a cold steel. http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Kukri-Machete-Handle/dp/B000FJRR2K/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1343949055&sr=1-1&keywords=cold+steel+kukri

I use one that I buy off Amazon and it works great! https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=lp_3480689011_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1538146559&sr=1-2

You local university may also have a lab where you can send a sample for testing. They usually do not cost much https://ag.umass.edu/soil-plant-nutrient-testing-laboratory/fact-sheets/sampling-instructions-for-routine-soil-analysis

My understanding is that 1) it takes a while for the plant to start taking up the calcium, and 2) the conditions that cause blossom end rot actually set in weeks prior to fruit set.

So with this trick, you really want to do it early (assuming their is even a calcium deficiency in the first place.) I know folks who put a tablet in each planting hole when they transplant! But perhaps a treatment mid-season could alleviate the issue a few weeks later?

Before doing stuff like this, I recommend that people get a soil testing kit. They're cheap and easy to use, and will tell you if your soil really is deficient in certain nutrients or if it's another problem. Blossom end rot is more often not about a lack of calcium, it's that the tomato can't take up what calcium is there due to other factors.

dont matter ph is a huge part to play in your plants life. you might want to invest in this https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845 so u get more than one reading on ph and npk of soil . if its reading is 6-7 your okay then its not a ph problem. its probably the temps or idk because twisting and irregular leaves are caused by ph

Any opinions about the Gerber Gator? It's from a generally trustworthy company, has good Amazon reviews, and is fairly inexpensive.

I have a standard Ka-Bar I use for everything else, but when I'm collecting firewood with it I often find myself wishing I had a slightly longer/heavier blade.

I've got the crkt woods chogan hawk and I love it. It's a little heavier than the standard tomahawk, but I like that a lot. You end up getting a lot of chopping power in a little package.

Can you spend $10-15 on a moisture sensor like this ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR52P26/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) ? That will be the easiest and most accurate way to see if your plant is too dry/wet. If it is drying out that quickly it may be in too small a pot, and you could consider repotting.

I agree, it's either that they're over-watered, malnourished, or both. If they're over-watered, the roots aren't getting any oxygen. They need to drink, but they need to breathe, too. If they sit in water, they rot.

This soil test is a good investment if they don't perk up from less frequent watering. It'll tell you what kind of fertilizer you need.

I bought this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dusters-CompuCleaner-Xpert-Electric-Duster/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549442202&sr=8-3&keywords=blower+for+pc for my pc and found it alot better then compressed air because it can clean a-lot of stuff much faster + it's a 1 time buy generally unless it breaks.

Here is what I am using.

​

Filter w/ fan : https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Control-Australia-Charcoal/dp/B01MSEVQ3J/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1539056270&sr=1-4&keywords=vivosun+4+inch

​

I also bought some MDF board, and built a box for the fan to go into. It was a little louder than I wanted it to be, so now it's really quite. I will add a picture for you to check it out.

​

Tent: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JN8REQC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I got one of these things: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR52P26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

​

Thanks. I was just going to buy a soil test on Amazon. Something like this. Not good enough?

Nutes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006XTQGLO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Few packages of these to hang lights and filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010DD743O?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Extension cords
Plenty of options

Lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B4GQ6MO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Fabric pots:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TF9E6XE?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Air control
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1R0K68?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Outlet timer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XC7GTCN/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tent https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01731MNJE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Carbon filter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4 inch duct
Can find anywhere

Jewelers loop (super important)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K0BGNNC?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

To dry your buds
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GXHQIKO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Surge protectors and ext cords
Find anywhere

Inline fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7S46YZ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Soil probe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017GQ9VVY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A few other things I got locally from grow shops. Quality seeds are important. Greenpointseeds.com is always having bomb sales, ship from Colorado, and are top quality. Soil from local grow shops but can also buy from online. I went cheaper on light, but I wouldn't do that again. Get good quality lights.

I just don't understand why people try to take care of onions with chems when the solution is so
simple. I guess most people haven't heard about this.

these are the ones I got

They’re amazing dude. The spring comes from the metal at the end. It’s basically two razor blades springing together. I don’t think I could go back to any type of actual scissor type shears after using these now. Also they’re cheap so if you didn’t want to clean them and just chuck a pair that’s a viable option as well. But they don’t make my hands hurt compared to the others so that’s the biggest thing for me next to how well they cut.

I disagree highly, those trimming scissors have a spring which will give your hand cramps if you're trimming for long periods of time (granted, you may not have enough weed to get that far)

Chikamasa makes the best trimming scissors, hands down. They were designed for the Royal Gardens in China and they are the go-to for any serious trimmers.

Specifically, these: https://www.amazon.com/Chikamasa-B-500SRF-Scissors-Fluorine-Coating/dp/B0195U2MLA

Love this garden knife!

http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Garden-Landscaping-Digging-Stainless/dp/B0007WFG2I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418157066&sr=8-1&keywords=garden+knife

I bought a cheap test kit in Amazon to test pH, nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus.

Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_XkaL8boa6FELc

For fertilizer, I like the Ecoscraps brand and it seems to work well.

Thanks. I have this one that hopefully will work. Doesn't seem angled though

Nicholson 06706N Axe File, 8-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006DWT7HG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MB6QCbRT6QF3G

Many people love the cold steel trail hawks, I prefer the CRKT hawk for a budget option.

Chikamasa B-500SRF are hands down the best for dry/wet trimming.

Oh cool. Like this:? https://www.amazon.com/ProPlugger-Garden-Planter-Weeder-Plugger/dp/B003MRTVUI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=grass+pro+plugger&qid=1550861650&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I had been watering pretty much daily, just enough to keep the top layer of soil slightly damp to the touch. Once I moved the largest plant to it's current container, I stuck one of these in there: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R4RPS54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


With that in there, I kept it towards the top of the green bar, now I'm watering it just to keep it in the middle, usually every other day.

>How deep down do you let it get dry? How are you determining that it's dry? Eyeballing the top, or sticking your finger into it?

I have a combination PH and wetness tester. I usually eyeball it, but I check the moisture with that if I'm not sure.

>Is there a hole in the bottom of the planter?

Yes

>Your soil can't possibly be pH of 1-2. What acidic thing have you been adding that would have dropped the pH that low? Test the tester on ordinary tap water. It should be 7.

I will try this - thanks.

>Stop adding lime, it's for agriculture outdoors, where the vastly larger volume of soil, plus processes of soil chemistry and weather, work to ameliorate and regulate its effects. It's not for planters, where it can quickly and catastrophically raise your pH to Stephen King Dead Zone levels. Is that the white stuff sprinkled on top? Did the pepper that's wilted start wilting after you sprinkled lime all over the soil?

Yes - the white stuff is the lime. I mixed it with water and poured it over both plants twice over a month or two. Like I said in the original post, one of the plants exploded and started doing fantastically when I added the lime, but the other one started looking like this. They're in the exact same planter, so I'm confused why it hurt one and helped the other. I'll cut out the lime though. Any recommendations on how to help the droopy plant at this point?

I bought this lawn butler manual core aerator, $25 from Amazon.

It worked fine after a rain. If you have under say 2000sf I would consider it.

I looked at renting and buying for my reno, and wound up buying everything- an $80 lawn roller, the $90 greenworks corder dethatcher, and the $25 manual core aerator.

Would barely have saved any money renting, and now I have the tools to use next year.

If you have a much larger lawn, its a different calculation.

People seem to like this one which is only 40 bucks

Of course, if money were no object, I would want the on that op has haha

I do not have a hawk yet, and just recently got my first hatchet. (wetterlings) But my limited experience with my hatchet has me curious about the versatility of a hawk.

Fiskars
or Chikamasa.

Just make sure to keep them clean. For the Fiskars, after use place them in locking position to increase longevity of the spring’s tension.

Here's the link to CRKT's website: http://www.crkt.com/woods-chogan-thawk-axe-2730

I bought mine off of Amazon from this listing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I04Q7LO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: is there a better sub for this post?

Possibly too much fertilizer in the potting soil. I assume you have a drain hole in the bottom. Give the plant a good rinse with cool (not cold) water for 15 minutes. That should help rinse some of the salts away.

I have one of these and tend to check the pH too. The wrong pH means the plant will not get the minerals it needs.

I have the husqvarna 26" axe which is made by hults bruks. It has been a fantastic axe and keeps its edge very well. I also have a gransfors bruks axe and the quality of the husqvarna is nearly identical.

https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-576926201-Curved-Wooden-Multipurpose/dp/B004WJGXAQ

It sounds like you're being exceptionally picky when you trim? Maybe relax a bit? Are you trying to get every single little bit of leaf out?

My wife and I use a bunch of these little bonsai scissors. We keep a glass of alcohol out to soak the gunked-up ones in and just switch them out as needed. It takes us roughly an hour to trim a plant.

Our basic process is:

• Cut all the branches and the cola off the plant.
  
• Put em in a big box in the center of the table.
  
• Lay out our scissors and other gear.
  
• Get the cat off the table.
  
• Stick a trash can by the table for the big stuff.
  
• We each grab a branch.
  
• Cut all the big fan leaves off and toss them. This takes maybe a minute per branch, probably less.
  
• Cut off all the little popcorn buds. We throw these in a bowl and save them for extracts. Maybe another minute per branch.
  
• Get the cat off the table.
  
• Now we start cleaning up the individual buds.
  
• Nip off any leaves that aren't sugary enough. Toss them. Maybe 5 minutes a branch.
  
• Start cleaning up the buds. We just nip off anything that sticks out too far. We're mainly just shaping things up. Don't worry about digging into the buds to get every little trace of a leaf. If you can reach it easily enough, great, but no need to stress. This is the bulk of our time, maybe 10 minutes per branch.
  
  Edit: Oh, and if you're totally fine just extracting the plant, you really don't need to do much at all. I'd cut the fan leaves off since its quick and they're just needless bulk, but even that isn't mandatory.

Yep, check out this. At $19 you could buy 2.
However you might like one direct from Nepal.

I usually only grow 2 or 3 plants at a time so I'm probably not as particular about what I use to trim as others who end up spending days doing it. I am happy to use bonsai trimmers such as this

https://www.amazon.com/Sago-Brothers-Bonsai-Pruning-Scissors/dp/B00P0FK7W6/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1542645012&sr=8-14&keywords=trimming+shears

I recommend getting a soil test. You can order a kit from Amazon or send a sample off for analysis.

Your pH could be off or your soil may need fertilizer. To grow anything you need to start with the dirt and then work your way up.

This little kit will get you started off in the right direction. I use this one and highly recommend it.

https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845

I normally clip off the pin, use a metal file to file it as flush as I can, and glue a rare earth magnet to the back using E6000 glue. The glue you can get at any craft store. You should be able to get the magnets there too. Depending on how many you want to make though these ones are probably a better deal.

I use this style scissors for my fine trimming. I bought two pairs for a buck on wish.

Sago Brothers Bonsai Scissors, Pruning Shears for Bud and Leaves Trimmer 5 PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0FK7W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DeANBbJVTGJQ5

>Will something like this work?
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1525790636&sr=1-4&keywords=soil+test+kit#customerReviews
>
>Or should I get the real soil savvy test where I send it in?

These are great bang for the buck hand forged in sweden. A real top notch axe at a great price. Husqvarna

Gransfors Bruks aslo make BIFL axes but at a bit higher price point. You can also check out Axe junkies.com if you really want to nerd ou on axes. Rumor has it the Husky axes are forged by Granfors.

Badass? How about a Machete / Kukri? :D

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006YBY9GA/ref=pd_aw_sims_6?pi=SS115&simLd=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FJRR2K/ref=pd_aw_sims_4?pi=SS115&simLd=1

You should try some of those spring loaded nippers. Much easier to rip out a thousand stitches in an eyelashed quilt.

This is why I got them. They also work well for trimming.

A friend of mine just pays his friends in weed to do it for him. Can't you do that?

Also, unless you are selling your stuff to a dispensary, there's absolutely no reason to do such a tight trim. This degrades the potency of your product.

Commercial grow ops usually use those little tumbler things to get those little rock hard nuggets for bag appeal. In the process, they end up shaving all the trichome heads off of the outside. No bueno.

Most likely some kind of lacquer or varnish.

Get an axe file (like this one) and a Lansky puck. You can find a lot of great tutorials on how to sharpen an axe on youtube.

You can buy a soil test kit for really cheap!

It’ll tell you exactly what your plant needs :)

You could rent one but that would likely be overkill for 900 sq ft. You could buy a manual one like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOMCJD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2G09ybVGG02FW

For manual stomp aerator, are you talking about something like this? I was told that things like this are essentially worthless because they don't pull any plugs.

What about this for a dethatcher?

I bought this one and I really like it!

I have always had good luck with a Japanese Hori Hori

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Garden-Landscaping-Digging-Stainless/dp/B0007WFG2I

Very durable and compact but still can do lots of work.

Yep, this thing. In general, it wasn't terrible, but some of the compacted solid required a bit of force and my hip was jacked up for a few days afterwards.

If you're doing soil...you want a soil PH measurement tool like THIS

I would highly recommend the CRKT Chogan

You might consider this to move the grass in the ankle breaking holes. Put a plug in the middle or a few in it. It will help the grass fill in faster.

I use this one when I clean trails while I hike.


Gerber 31-000758 Gator Machete with Sheath
http://amzn.com/B004A1IXRC

Am I going to actively be Ph testing the soil?

Would this be a waste of a purchase?

https://www.amazon.com/MoonCity-Moisture-acidity-Gardener-outdoors/dp/B017GQ9VVY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491847542&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+test+garden

Sorry for all the questions.

Japanese Hori Hori (ホリホリ) crop knives are cheap, unique and small to pack in your lugage. They are all around farm tool used for harvesting things like cabbages, weeding, planting, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Nisaku-NJP650-Hori-Hori-Stainless-Weeding/dp/B0007WFG2I

I also vote for the Husqvarna ‘multi purpose axe’. Shaped like the other swede forest axes, in a ‘boy’s axe’ size which I prefer over the larger axes for most work.

$75 on Amazon

> Should I just buy a core aerator and do it manually?

I would. (Assuming you are talking about something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-ID-6C-Coring-Aerator/dp/B00EOMCJD6)

I have a manual aerator where I step down with my foot to martial he holes.

Like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EOMCJD6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414330297&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P0FK7W6

I like these along with micro tip shears similar to the fiskars for larger leaves. These get a bit more precise for those little sugar leaves.

I've been a scout camp counselor for six years and used axes of all kinds including granfors and wetterlings. The Husqvarna 26in axe is made by wetterlings and is easily the very best axe for your money. That's really all I have to say. I would also never buy a strait handled axe for actual use (apart from a double sided axe, but even they have a flared pommel). Tomahawks are a different story but they arent for doing work.

If you have any questions hit me up.

You can get electric-powered air dusters. Long term they work out cheaper than canned air, don't contain bitterants and because they're electric, they're rechargeable.

I don't work for the companies selling these, but here is the US and UK links for amazon. (Other brands are available - my search was for electric compressed air)


https://www.amazon.co.uk/CompuCleaner-Xpert-Electric-Air-Duster/dp/B01G1Z0RF0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483881551&sr=8-6&keywords=electric+compressed+air


https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B01BI4UQK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483881570&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+compressed+air

Yeah you can rent an aerator, but looking at your yard you might be able to get by with a manual one like this.

I wouldn't mow now. I know we're seeing some crazy weather now, but it won't do you any good until your lawn comes out of dormancy and that's still a bit away.

3. Knife Sharpening Stone Combination Dual Sided Grit With Base for Sharpening and Polishing Tool with Non Slip Base for Kitchen Knives, Hunting Knives, Pocket Knives and Tool Blades (400/1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H38Y3GL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D5dzDbP2PQNX3
   
   
4. Lansky Puck - Dual Grit Multi-Purpose Sharpener - Blade & Tool Sharpener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8FW0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.5dzDbXZ9RWB2
   
   
5. Nicholson 06706N Axe File, 8-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006DWT7HG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q6dzDbFGRVZVW
   
   I just copied what I saw in a wranglerstar YouTube vid. I purchased these three items and they will be my dedicated axe sharpening devices.

Yeah, when I first built my PC I bought one of these, every week I use it to clean/dust it.

I second taping it up. I normally just use plant tie tape but any sort of tape (even duct) will work assuming you take it off a few weeks later. With the plant tie stuff I just wrap it around the break and knot it since it's not sticky. Works great and will even give support to a branch that's dangling.

Soil test kit



Soil pH guide



How to create a backyard pond

These are the types I have used for my lawn (small pill that you dump into water you've mixed with the soil and left sit over night, then match the colors). They worked very well. However, I am a big fan of getting your local university extension office to test your soil. Most of them do it fairly cheaply (or for free).

This is what I have used - https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845

Fellow Michigander here. You have plenty of time to get your yard off to a good start. I brought in soil but it is not always needed. Check and see where you are after the test.

My hands would hurt so bad after a day of using those. I prefer bonsai trimmers like these. They’re cheap, you can trim just as tight, and they’re way easier on the hands.

https://www.amazon.com/Thick-Stretch-Plant-Garden-Green/dp/B00DG75DS8/

This what you "should" use. It's made for these exact issues. However electrical tape or duct tape will work fine but you'll want to change out the tape as the plant will continue to grow and this could cause other issues.

I have this gardening blade I bought on amazon a year or two ago and it's great for finishing off the plants. I point it towards the roots, just below the visible part of the plant, and hit it with a mallet and it severs the roots just below the surface. Unless it's an asparagus weed or a yucca or one of the other many plants that can grow from a root segment, it won't come back. If it is one of those type, persistence is the only way (just keep cutting it to the ground when it pops up, eventually it'll run out of steam.)

This is the blade I bought. There's another one for 14$ but I don't know how good it is.

Any examples of it? I must admit I'm intrigued.

Edit: Found the culprit. https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-576926201-Curved-Wooden-Multipurpose/dp/B004WJGXAQ

Better yet, the rolls of velcro tape where you can just cut whatever length you need. I use these for cable management all the time.

This for a smaller yard. Spikes compact the soil more by simply pressing it to the sides and down, a core aerator pulls a plug out on top on the grass.

Immediately after a full trim (im lazy so I only want to handle and trim my crop one time). Then its on to dry and cure. I have a big 4'x4' oak box I dry in. Its outside on covered patio, I keep a rh meter in it. I have some control over humidity in the box through leaving the lid fully open, slightly open, closed, water bucket... I drop buds in bags and leave open for the 1st day or so (im bud washing so humidity is a little higher than if not washing). I have rh meter in the bag, when it gets down to 60-70 or so I fold over and clip the top closed. I monitor the bags 2,3,4 times a day. Its true, a very important part of the grow is dry/cure. I bet 99% of the crops that get jacked end up worse or trash because the thief does not know how to dry/cure. Good Luck bro/

I use these for bud trimming

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P0FK7W6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I sleep with this by the bed in case of intruders. We have a lot of blades and things around though. I'm just to lazy to track them all down and take photos lol.

Most of the time, it's the watering thst is the problem, either too much or too little. One of these can really help.

Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xv3yDbN3J1V2W

https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Phosphorous/dp/B0000DI845

Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit for Soil pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DI845/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZL3vDb8Z2TNZ2

it wasn't an actual test by a lab i tried using one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845

> see http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845

As an alternative to this test, check your local coop extension. They'll likely do a test for a similar amount, but it will be much more accurate. They'll also make recommendations on how to rectify any deficiencies.

Maybe a nitrogen or calcium deficiency? Have you tried a soil test kit? https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Phosphorous/dp/B0000DI845/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?adgrpid=61570362848&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv_ubt6Pm5QIV__7jBx1n-AzhEAAYAiAAEgLpV_D_BwE&hvadid=274709675642&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9019526&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1201305533024357561&hvtargid=kwd-300627101412&hydadcr=5600_9612358&keywords=soil+ph+tester&qid=1573616812&sr=8-20