Reddit mentions: The best gardening & lawn care products

We found 11,386 Reddit comments discussing the best gardening & lawn care products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 4,316 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

1. VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified 300W LED Grow Light, with Daisy Chain, Full Spectrum Plant Growing Lights for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower

    Features:
  • 【Optimal Spectrum】The secret to VIPARSPECTRA’s success is optimal full spectrum lighting which provides plants in all stages from veg to flower with everything they need in the natural sunlight. This results in bigger buds and higher yield all while saving you on energy costs.
  • 【Daisy chain Design】 Daisy chain feature assists growers to connect multiple lights together with fewer outlets. No additional cords is needed, just simply plug in the provided power cord into the second light's outlet to achieve connection among multiple units.
  • 【Outstanding Design】Sturdy durable construction with fire-resistant iron housing. Suitable for each growing phase. Upgraded aluminum cooling heat sinks and advanced high speed quiet fans are great for heat dissipation.
  • 【Coverage Area】Comparable to traditional 250W HPS/MH while consuming only 130W! Perfect for a 2’x2’ vegetative coverage at 24” and 1.5x1.5’ flowering coverage at 18”.
  • 【Worry-free 3 Years US warranty】We are a professional manufacturer which specialized in LED grow light for many years. Products' quality and professional customer service are always our Top concerned. We offer 3 Years local warranty and 30 days money back guarantee. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us. We will offer you professional guidance to help you and your plants grow better.
VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified 300W LED Grow Light, with Daisy Chain, Full Spectrum Plant Growing Lights for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height3 Inches
Length12.6 Inches
Size300W
Weight6.4 Pounds
Width8 Inches
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2. MarsHydro LED Grow Light 300W Full Spectrum for Hydroponic Indoor Plants Growing Veg and Flower Daisy Chain ECO 300W

    Features:
  • PACKAGE INCLUDES - 1 Top Bin with 150 Micron Stainless Steel Screen, 1 Bottom Bin with Mirror Finish, 1 Static Brush. The Trim Bin has been professionally designed by growers and cultivators in the industry to allow workers to trim faster, process more product and make the most money possible at every trimming job.
  • HIGH WALLS FOR EASY TRIMMING - Unlike other products on the market, the innovative Trim Bin features a high-walled design that keeps the work contained and minimizes messes from flying bits of trimmed herb. Quickly and easily separate buds from leaves & stems with plenty of room in the tray as you manicure the final product.
  • ERGONOMIC LAPTOP TRAY DESIGN - Trim all day in total comfort - from anywhere. The Trim Bin comfortably rests in your lap and lets you work relaxed at a table, in a chair, on the couch, outdoors or anywhere else conducive to your workflow. Engineered with ergonomic rounded arm grooves to reduce stress injuries and increase productivity.
  • COLLECT TONS OF EXTRA KIEF - Get the most value out of your herb. The top bin includes a built-in, ultra-fine 150 micron stainless steel mesh sieve screen to catch all the extra kief that would otherwise be lost to the tray. Scrape it off the bottom bin and collect it with the static brush for pressing. Made in California from 100% recycled plastic.
MarsHydro LED Grow Light 300W Full Spectrum for Hydroponic Indoor Plants Growing Veg and Flower Daisy Chain ECO 300W
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height7.87 Inches
Length12.99 Inches
Width2.76 Inches
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3. Roleadro Grow Light, 1000W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum Galaxyhydro Series Plant Light for Indoor Plants with IR for Greenhouse, Hydroponics, Seedlings, Veg and Flower

    Features:
  • ►Blurples Light—Roleadro Grow light is an infrared grow light that is great for indoor plants. All Kinds of Indoor Plants Will be Happy in all Growth Stage at Any Time and Anywhere! The secret is our grow light extracted the most useful Blue Red IR and white light spectrum from natural sunlight to help plants perform photosynthesis better. Different from other full spectrum grow lights, we added more RED light to ensure the yield will be increased up to 30%-50%.
  • ►Higher PAR Value and Energy Saving—Unique 90 degree optical lens and Eplieds 10w chips design bring higher PAR value(453umol at 18”) and Lumen output than others. Effectively reduce light loss and ensure the utilization of light up to 98%. That makes this growing light achieved the balance between efficient utilization and energy-saving. With it, you can grow delicate tropicals that will bloom year-round, as well as letting you harvest easy-to-grow vegetables and herbs in the coldest winter day
  • ►Unique LED Bead and Zener Design—This plant light adopted led bead and zener design instead of the reflector to ensure if one led out won’t affect others’ leds. just consumes about 135w power, the electricity is 0.135kW·h per hour. And test result shows that the plastic reflector surface can not stand the temperature over 70 degrees and will burn out like melt. That is why Galaxhydro grow light use led bead/zener and always insist on it. We hope growing will be more safely and eco-friendly.
  • ►Powerful Heat-Removal System—Roleadro 1000w led grow light are adopted 2 high-speed cooling fans+built-in aluminum heat-sink+unique built-in temperature controller, all of them constitute a powerful cooling system which can dissipate the heat from the lamp inside to outside efficiently. LED grow light input voltage AC85-265V, The LED grow light can replace traditional 1000 watt HPS/MH while consuming only 135 total watts!Totally protect the led board and ensure the long service life.
  • ►Reliable Warranty and Professional Service/Support—We are not only the seller but also a professional manufacturer with 11 years R&D and production experience of the led light. All our products were strictly through the high-temperature test and check before sending out, 24months warranty is our promise. With our grow lights, you can enjoy kinds of plants, veg, and flowers in anti-season. Any problem, you can just contact us, we will provide you the professional solution and support.
Roleadro Grow Light, 1000W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum Galaxyhydro Series Plant Light for Indoor Plants with IR for Greenhouse, Hydroponics, Seedlings, Veg and Flower
Specs:
Color1000w
Height2.4 Inches
Length12.1 Inches
SizeM/1000W
Weight4.74 Pounds
Width8.2 Inches
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7. VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified 600W LED Grow Light,with Daisy Chain,Veg and Bloom Switches, Full Spectrum Plant Growing Lights for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower

    Features:
  • 【Optimal Spectrum】The secret to VIPARSPECTRA’s success is optimal full spectrum lighting which provides plants in all stages from veg to flower with everything they need in the natural sunlight. This results in bigger buds and higher yield all while saving you on energy costs.VIPARSPECTRA is a trusted brand in the lighting industry by providing the best customer care with quality and safe products.
  • 【VEG & BLOOM Switches】 The V600 light comes with VEG and BLOOM switches,which are suitable for each growing phase. Upgraded aluminum cooling heat sinks and advanced high speed quiet fans are great for heat dissipation.
  • 【Daisy Chain Function】Daisy Chain feature assists growers to connect multiple lights together with fewer outlets. Each package includes a US power cable, but with a dual purpose of serving as power plug as well as a daisy chain cable. No additional cords is needed, simply plug in the provided power cord into the second light's outlet to connection among multiple units. To ensure safety, each total true wattage of extra connected light must less than 600w, you can maximum link extra 2pcs V600.
  • 【Coverage area & Hanging height】The 600W LED grow light is perfect for a 3’x3’ vegetative coverage at 32”and 2.5’x2.5’ flowering coverage at 22”. We recommend hanging the light at 28"-40" and running the lights 18 hours per day during the vegetation stage. During the flowering and fruiting stage, hang the light at 18"-24" while running 12 hours per day with both VEG and BLOOM switches. Remember to properly adjust the height of your light accordingly to your plant desired level for optimal growth
  • 【Worry-free 3 Years US warranty】We are a professional manufacturer who specializes in LED grow lights for many years. Product quality and professional customer service are always our top concern. We offer 3 Year local warranty and 30 days money back guarantee. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us. We will offer you professional guidance to help you and your plants grow better.
VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified 600W LED Grow Light,with Daisy Chain,Veg and Bloom Switches, Full Spectrum Plant Growing Lights for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height3 Inches
Length15.3 Inches
Size600W Led Grow Light
Weight11.6 Pounds
Width12.8 Inches
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9. LED Grow Light for Indoor Plants, Relassy 15000Lux Sunlike Full Spectrum Grow Lamp, Dual Head Gooseneck Plant Light with Replaceable Bulbs, Professional for Seedling Growing Blooming Fruiting

    Features:
  • ►【Original Product, Relassy Brand】Best sunlike full spectrum grow light - With 88 high quality(50,000 hours lifetime), high par value(96 μmol/m2·s at 12in) and high efficiency(actual working power 20W+-5%) LED chips, the wave of the light from 380nm to 800nm. Similar to the natural sunlight, ideal for all kinds of indoor plants at all growth stages. Replaceable Grow Light Bulb: Suitable for E26/E27 lamp head
  • ►【Faster Plant Growth】 Can promote the growth of the leaves and rhizome, protein synthesis, blossom and bearing fruit. Why choose us but not the red and blue spectrum led grow light? Because we truly offer a sunlike full spectrum contains all wavelengths of light from 380nm to 800nm, delivers more highly-uniform light needed by plants than those single red and blue spectrum grow lights on the market, the most top lighting solution for commercial growers and home hobbyists
  • ►【Larger Illumination Area】 With 120° beam angle and 18 inch gooseneck, which enlarge the area of the effective lighting. Equipped with flexible gooseneck and rotatable bulbs, that is much easier for you to adjust the angle and the distance between the light and plants. So our plant light can provide 360-degree illumination for your plants and promote their growth. Besides, you can select 3 different lighting mode with dual switch design.
  • ►【High-Efficiency & Scientific Heat Dissipation Design】 The shell of bulbs was made of aeronautical aluminum which is one of the best thermal conductive material. And the fin-shaped heat sink design increases the heat dissipation area which can prolong the life of the grow lights for indoor plants. 88 LED chips with no luminous decay for 18 months assure
  • ►【Safe for Indoor Use】 Our LED grow lights adopt the technology of overcurrent, overheating, overvoltage protection, also have been certified by FCC, CE, ROHS, and PSE. This indoor plant grow lights can be safely used for indoor plants, hydroponics, greenhouses, etc. What's more, this plant grow lights indoor also can be used as a desk light, table light or eye-caring lamp with the imitated natural light
LED Grow Light for Indoor Plants, Relassy 15000Lux Sunlike Full Spectrum Grow Lamp, Dual Head Gooseneck Plant Light with Replaceable Bulbs, Professional for Seedling Growing Blooming Fruiting
Specs:
ColorSunlike
Height10 Inches
Length5.5 Inches
Width1.9 Inches
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12. LED Grow Light, Roleadro 75W Grow Light for Indoor Plants Full Spectrum Plant Light for Seedling, Hydroponic, Greenhouse, Succulents, Flower

    Features:
  • 【Exclusive Spectrum】Roleadro grow lights Adopted Most Useful Grow Light Spectrum. The exclusive light spectrum contains 460-465nm, 620-740nm, 6000-6500k wave band, Providing plants with a diverse spectrum of light and promotes their growth.With it, you can grow delicate tropicals that will bloom year-round, as well as letting you harvest easy-to-grow vegetables and herbs in the coldest winter days.
  • 【Excellent heat dissipation design】No longer worry about heat dissipation even with high power. We adopt aluminum cooling plate made of advanced small molecular material, plus a small heat sink for each chip to achieve excellent heat dissipation. All of these designs made heat efficient dissipation.
  • 【Easy Set Up】This led grow lights are lightweight and very easy to use with the upgraded hanging brackets, the system can be built in perfect sturdy condition within one minute. you can hang this lamp for anywhere you want. Good structure and high-quality material selection make this indoor plant lamp is the best choice for gardeners.
  • 【Widely Used】This Seedling Light can be used for both hydroponics and indoor plants in soil, such as orchid, papers potatoes, lettuce, chili, tomatoes, aquarium plants like algae that in greenhouse, garden, vertical farm, grow tent or grow room.
  • 【Reliable Warranty and Professional Service】We are not only the seller but also a professional manufacturer with 11 years R&D and production experience of led light.All our products were strictly through high temperature test and check before sent out, 30 months warranty is our promise. With our grow lights, you can enjoy kinds of plants,veg and flowers in anti-season.Any problem, you can just contact us, we will provide you the professional solution and support.
LED Grow Light, Roleadro 75W Grow Light for Indoor Plants Full Spectrum Plant Light for Seedling, Hydroponic, Greenhouse, Succulents, Flower
Specs:
ColorRed&blue
Height0.2170004336 Inches
Length4.2780085468 Inches
Number of items1
Weight1.7 Pounds
Width4.2780085468 Inches
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13. SANSI 24W LED Plant Light Bulb Full Spectrum LED Grow Light Plant Lights for Indoor Plants, E26 Grow Light Bulb for Hydroponics Greenhouse Houseplants Vegetable Tobacco, Sunlight White UV IR

    Features:
  • 4000K DAYLIGHT: Imitate the solar spectrum, customize a more ideal full life cycle full spectrum supplementary light program, covering the entire visible spectrum of 400nm-780nm; Color rendering index Ra is close to 100, infinitely close to natural light, suitable for every cycle of plant growth, effectively promotes plant growth, and improves crop yield and quality.
  • SECONDARY OPTICAL DESIGN: PPF: 36.2umol/s, PPFD:177.06μmol/s/㎡@1FT: . Through the lens for secondary scientific light distribution, improve light utilization, give plants more supplementary light, and improve light bulb lifespan to 25,000 hours.
  • PATENTED COC TECHNOLOGY: Chip on Ceramic, SANSI's patented technology replaces the traditional Mcpcb aluminum substrate with a non-conductive ceramic heat sink, and directly solder the LED chip on the ceramic heat sink, effectively reducing the system thermal resistance between the LED PN junction and the surface of the heat sink, resulting in faster heat conduction and higher product reliability, makes the SANSI bulb has higher light efficiency.
  • SAFE & RELIABLE: The lamp body is made of special ceramic material, and the flame retardant grade reaches V0; the reinforced insulation structure design, no risk of electric shock, is safer; the whole shell material reaches the WF2 anti-corrosion grade, which is more reliable and durable; low IR, less heat radiation, avoiding close Distance exposure burns plants.
  • GUARANTEES: ETL listed & CE certification, quality and safety verified, 5 years warranty.
SANSI 24W LED Plant Light Bulb Full Spectrum LED Grow Light Plant Lights for Indoor Plants, E26 Grow Light Bulb for Hydroponics Greenhouse Houseplants Vegetable Tobacco, Sunlight White UV IR
Specs:
Color24w
Height6.65 Inches
Length5.16 Inches
Size24 Watts
Width5.16 Inches
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17. VIVOSUN Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10" x 20.75" MET Standard

    Features:
  • Reliable Results: The VIVOSUN professional heat mat maintains sweet-spot temperatures around 68-86℉(20-30℃), which is perfect for start seeding and cutting propagation; Made of high-quality PVC material, it is wear-resistant and durable to use; With the helpful instruction and growing tips printed on the mat, it will become your dependable companion even if you are a beginner
  • Stable & Uniform Heat: The advanced far-infrared heating technology of this heat pad provides your plant with a warm environment to create optimal conditions for speeding up germination and accelerating the growth rate; The strengthened heating film with double insulation layers ensures this durable mat will not scorch the root and can produce plenty of invigorating dew when being used in combination with a humidity dome
  • Built to Last: Designed with soft, flexible, and ultra-lasting material, this warming mat goes beyond stringent MET standards; The IP67 rating waterproof surface is easy to clean that enables safe scrubbing; Note: please only use the product indoors and do not immerse it in the water; Equipped with a carrying bag in the package, you can simply roll it up and pack it away, which is handy to move to different places; This product does not specify any expiration date
  • Best Savings in the Market: This 10" x 20.75" heating pad with a 5.9ft power cord is suitable for standard 1020 trays and slightly larger than comparable mats on the market; It also runs on only 20 Watts to help you save on electricity; It can not only use for plant sprouting and other indoor gardening but also for home brewing and terrarium warming, meeting your different daily needs
  • Innovative Heating: With the radiate far-infrared light wave, this seeding heat mat makes the heat source softer and provides enough heat, which can be heated up to 40 ℃(104℉)at an ambient temperature of 20-25 ℃(68-77℉)in minutes; We recommend using it with the VIVOSUN thermostat controller and humidity dome
VIVOSUN Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10" x 20.75" MET Standard
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height2.362204722 Inches
Length11.023622036 Inches
Size1-Pack 10"x20"
Weight1.10231131 Pounds
Width2.362204722 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on gardening & lawn care products

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where gardening & lawn care products are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 166
Number of comments: 37
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 137
Number of comments: 32
Relevant subreddits: 4
Total score: 124
Number of comments: 33
Relevant subreddits: 5
Total score: 121
Number of comments: 47
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 114
Number of comments: 50
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 108
Number of comments: 108
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 98
Number of comments: 64
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 58
Number of comments: 35
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 57
Number of comments: 32
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 42
Number of comments: 42
Relevant subreddits: 1

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Top Reddit comments about Gardening & Lawn Care:

u/kfa4303 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Yes, if you needed to cover a larger area/footprint, then 2 x 600ws would make more sense, but in a single tent it would be overly complex, crowded and expensive. The small gain in light and yield (if any) wouldn't really justify doubling the expense and hassle IMO. A 600w will make plenty potent product ;) Again, it's 90% in the genetics. So long as the plants gets sufficient light, food and water the genes will do the rest. The key is to not get in its way.

All lights, including HPS, have an ideal range from the plants at which they work best. Generally, it's within 18-24" of the tops. As a result, if you have a 4 foot tall plant the top will get good light, but bottom will suffer. For this reason, various training methods (SOG, SCROG, FIM, LST, etc...) have been used to even out the canopy and put all/many of the tops close to the light source in a single, uniform layer. As long as the bulk of your tops receive light within this ideal range they'll be fine. Any closer and they may get damaged by the intense light and heat and farther and they may loose density and take longer to ripen. Many fellow microgrowers actually use nothing but CFL/Fluorescent lights and get very good results.

There is no magic formula or way to guarantee yield. Never let anyone tell you differently. However, there are some rules of thumb. If you can get between 1/2 -1 gram of cured bud per 1 watt of HPS light that's good, but there's A LOT of variation in there, and much of it depends on matching just the right strain with just the right growing method in just the right environment. So, when they say a 1000w "can" make a "pound" (16 oz), that is an idealized figure. Sure, it "can" be done by the pros using various whiz-bang hydroponic set ups and lots of fancy fertilizers, etc...,but not always easily or very reliably due to all the many variables involved. They aren't "lying" per se, but there's always fine print. If you have the time, money and patience to invest into it, almost anything is "possible", if not probable.

In terms of harvesting, remember, plants are 70-80% water, just like us. As they dry and cure, they're going to shrink considerably and loose the vast majority of their weight, just like tobacco, dried herbs and mummified pharaohs. If you've ever cooked fresh spinach, you'll know what I mean. You can watch an entire bag of leaves wilt into a pile the size of your palm in just seconds as the moisture evaporates in the pan. Of course, we need this to happen so the buds can burn, but we also want it to happen to concentrate the aroma and flavor too (ie "cure"). For these reasons and more, you start to see why good weed costs as much as it does, especially considering it takes months per cycle and you have to grow at an almost 10:1 ratio! If you want a single dry, well trimmed and cured ounce you'll need to grow about 8-9 "wet" pre-trimmed, ounces (that includes the fan leaves, stems, other bits, etc....) :/ It's kind of depressing the first few times you harvest, but you learn to anticipate it eventually and plan accordingly. It's also why folks can't/don't stay "micro" for very long.

The good news is that if you're legal you can grow presumably grow outdoors in which case you can literally grow "trees" that will produce 10-15 POUNDS each and still only count a "1 plant" !!!! They would be 20 feet tall and would take almost a month to harvest, but it can and is done all the time (r/trees). Of course, outdoor come with its own challenges, but the rewards can be HUGE.

As for nutes, there are gozillions of brands, but they all do the same thing. The main difference is in hydroponic vs. organic systems. Hydroponics are like sci-fi steroids and the results can be AMAZING, but there's lots more equipment and noodling around involved and when things go bad, they go bad hard and fast. Soil/organic grows are generally easier and more forgiving, but usually don't yield as much. You'll have to decide which you prefer. The "benefits" nute manufactureres espouse are again, mostly marketing. While there are some very expensive nutes (ex: Advanced Nutrients) they're not really necessary and seem to work as well as any other. I run an organic set up, so for small set ups like ours, I use GeneralOrganics GoBox. It only costs about $40 and has everything you need for veg and flower. I can usually get 2-3 cycles (veg and flower) per box. Considering it lasts for +6 months, $40 is pretty cheap. Other companies make their own kits too, but the GoBox is probably the most common/popular. Just follow the directions on the side and you'll be good to go. It's basically all I use and I have no plans on changing.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Box-Starter-Kit/dp/B004PS4B08

I'm not sure about the mechanics of becoming "legit"in Oregon, but my state will hopefully be following suit soon too (hopefully), so let's hope we both figure it out. One key is finding a robust, fast growing, large producing strain and the growing method it prefers (hydro v. organic). Every grower has their favorites, so I would ask around in your area, but Blue Dream, Girl Scout Cookies and just about any Kush variety perform well indoors and seem to be very popular and readily available on the West coast.

Hope that helps.



u/leonardskinner33 · 3 pointsr/JAHSeeds

This is my first time growing, so please feel free to critique/rip into my setup, as I really appreciate all the help and knowledge! I actually ordered my seeds from JAHseeds a year ago, but never got my shit together enough to actually do anything with them.

 

I do want to take a quick moment to thank u/AFK_ing for the seeds first, as they were actually gifted to me for free. I placed an order on a whim one night, and then completely forgot about it. Turns out that JAHseeds never ended up depositing the interac transfer I sent them, so it inevitably expired. I had forgotten about the order completely, when out of the blue one day I received a letter in the mail complete with 12 free seeds and a handwritten 'apology' letter. This absolutely floored me, and left me feeling super warm and fuzzy inside. I've been cherishing the seeds up until now, so I'm really really happy that I can finally bring them to life :) Anyways....thank you JAHseeds!

 

Onto the setup! Currently running:

 

2x alibaba 240w QB

 

Promix HP + 2inch layer of worm castings on the bottom

 

Strain is The Best My seeds are not feminized however, so still unsure of sex.

 

Right now they are in 1 gallon pots and I'm planning on moving them into 7 gallon fabric pots when the time is right.

 

I kinda went ham one night and bought the entire GH nutrient lineup (including all the additives....) so I'm planning on sticking to their schedule (halved) throughout the grow. I know I could have done without a lot (most) of them, but yeah it was still cheaper than buying an Oz from the LP....Currently only feeding them water.

 

The tent is a GA 48x48x80, with a Vivosun 6 inch duct fan and carbon filter

 

Holmes Lil' Blizzard fan (this thing moves a lot of air)

 

I originally had a smaller tent so I started out germinating 3 seeds by dropping them in a glass of water for 36 hours. After they all popped, I planted them directly into coco pots. At that time I decided to change to a larger tent, so I dropped 2 more seeds into a glass of water to germinate. 36 hours later one of the seeds had popped, but not the other. I planted the one that popped, and left the other in the water for another 12 hours. At this time it still hadn't popped, so I just dropped it into a pot with the others. The one that never popped didnt end up coming through the soil until about 2 days ago (I was actually just about to give up on it). It's the tiny coco pot in the middle. Pretty sure it's gonna be a retard plant but whatever, I'll give it some love and care. Don't tell Justin. The nice healthy plant on the bottom right is the other seed that I germinated with it at the same time.


 

 

Close up shot 1

Close up shot 2



 

 

 

 

tl;dr i love you all

u/AutoModerator · 1 pointr/ballpython


I am a bot programmed to automatically provide the following content by /u/_Ataraxia when summoned. Link to the most recent version of this content here

The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

Ball Python Care Guides

  • the basics and then some
  • common problems
  • feeding problems

    Set-up Recommendations

  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. some popular brands include animal plastics [most recommended], boaphile plastics [i personally have these and like them], reptile basics, and vision cages, though you'll find many more with a quick google search. many people will use a tub at first and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as pro products [most recommended] or reptile basics.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

    Copypasta version 7/24/2018 (c) /u/_Ataraxia

    I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.
u/_ataraxia · 4 pointsr/ballpython

i think the other user is making a big deal about things that aren't actually red flags in and of themselves. but since i've been tagged, and you said you have humidity issues, i'll post my copypasta.

the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

  • the basics and then some
  • common problems
  • feeding problems
  • here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  • pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  • spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  • heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  • a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  • a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  • a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  • an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  • these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
u/endless_mic · 4 pointsr/Adenium

If you could post a picture of the whole plant and describe the potting medium, estimated hours of direct and indirect sunlight, and your watering schedule, it would be really helpful for making constructive recommendations for this guy.

The usual base line requirements for these guys are lots of light, temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and well draining potting soil. All three of these factors are indicative of these plants being native to Sub-Saharan Africa and the Arabian Peninsula. Enough sun means as much as you can give them, appropriate temperature means not letting the plant stay below 50 degrees for an extended period, and well-draining soil means adding amendments like perlite, pumice, or other small stone like bits. All of these factors combine to allow the plant to get enough but never too much water. Following these general guidelines will keep them from waffling in and out of dormancy (or worse, dying from either frost or root rot), and once you get a feel for what your plant needs, you'll both have a good time. Everybody has their own interpretation of these guidelines, and after a while, you'll be able to gauge the individual needs of your adenium by sight, touch, and other intuitive means.

Personally, I keep my adeniums in full sun for several hours a day from March until the end of October. I can get a way with this because I live in Florida. But, since we do get a handful of light frosts during the winter, I keep them in a makeshift greenhouse with growlights until the weather seems to have completely turned. My potting mix is a combination of humus, coco coir, pumices, and a variety of other bits of mineral substrate. Because my mix is mostly mineral, I fertilize using a product called dyna grow, using about half the regular dose every time I water, which is about once every 10 days. This works for me because of the climate here gets really hot in the summer, and despite being humid, the soil drys out pretty quickly. Like I said above, you'll get a feel for what works best in your environment, and for me, I usually let my plants decide when they need water by gently squeezing the caudex. If it is firm, I hold off on giving them water, and once it has a little give to it, I completely drench the pot.

To embark on your goal of making your adenium "bushier", you'll need to aggressively prune these two long branches down to the desired height. There are several helpful online guides for doing this without too much stress. Pruning will promote the growth of multiple new branches, and will cause caudex enlargement to speed up moderately. Owing to the fact that you're in zone 4b, I'd wait until late spring to do the pruning. After pruning, ease up on watering for about a week or two, and put it outside on days when the temp gets into the 60's. Be careful not to put the plant in direct sunlight for too long until it has adjusted to direct sunlight. To ease into this, start by leaving it somewhere with bright, indirect sunlight, and slowly move it into full sun for longer and longer periods each day. Since it probably won't get warm enough to set this guy outside full time until around June in your area, I'd suggest bringing it inside at night until summer really kicks off and the threat of chilly nights subsides. Alternatively, and what I personally would do in your climate, is buy a decent, but relatively inexpensive, grow light. I have have a lot of success with this light .

Be warned, adeniums are extremely dramatic plants, and often drop all their leaves for what may seem, to you, to be only slight disturbances. Such events include, temperature change, repotting, and sometimes for no reason at all. Don't panic, these are extremely resilient plants that, in a few years (maybe even less) will reward you with some of the most beautiful blossoms you've ever seen.

You're getting started on a really exciting relationship with this little guy, and I wish you the best of luck. If this leads you to the addiction most of us here suffer from, you'll soon want more plants. I have a ton of seedlings going right now, and if you decide you want to raise one, I'd gladly send one your way.

u/knerys · 4 pointsr/snakes

If you haven't purchased anything yet, I would recommend looking into either a tub or a pvc enclosure. Glass tanks can work, but they take a lot of modifications in order to get them to optimal humidity and temperatures for ball pythons. The 42qt Iris Weathertight tub is highly recommended as a good first enclosure for a ball python before upgrading to an Animal Plastics or Boaphile PVC enclosure. This is a good tutorial on making a tub enclosure. I have the Animal Plastics T8 for my ball python. A glass tank doesn't hold heat, and a screen top can let humidity escape.

You're gonna need an under tank heater - this is not really a place to be going cheap - you're gonna want to invest in an ultratherm heat pad or flexwatt heat tape. I've got my BP on the Flexwatt that was an add on item when getting my Animal Plastics T8. The stick on pads you see at pet stores, such a Zilla and ZooMed, can short out rather quickly and you cannot really re-use them easily. My rainboa boa has the ultratherm under tank heater which I ordered from Reptile Basics.

You might also want to look into radiant heat panels if going the PVC route - this helps keep ambient air temperatures where they need to be (over 75F) or a ceramic heat emitter. Stay away from anything that gives off visible light, even red light, as bp's can see it and if left on at night it can mess up their sleep/wake cycle.

Any heating element also needs a thermostat. You place the probe on the mat, between it and the surface you are attaching it to, and plug the heating element into the thermostat and then set the appropriate temperatures. Failure to do so might result in a badly burned ball python. Even the good heating elements can get too hot. I'd look into InkBird / JumpStart as brands for cheap thermostats that a lot of people seem to like. They do make a loud clicking sound when they turn on. If you can, I'd highly suggest shelling out for a Spyder Robotics Herpstat. I've got the Herpstat 2 and it's really phenomenal.

You will also need thermometers and hygrometers. Stay away from the analogue stick on ones - they are inaccurate and become unstuck from the wall but still sticky enough to stick to your BP, and possible remove your BP's skin. I like this indoor / outdoor one from Acurite - I've got the "outdoor" probe affixed to the warm side via hot glue and the unit itself on the cool side, so I can get humidity / cool side / warm side temps all in one glance. You'll also want an IR temp gun to spot check occassionally.

Hides you want something enclosed on all sides, with a small ofset opening. I really like these ones from Reptile Basics (which can also sometimes be found on Amazon). They are perfect for snakes. BP's like to feel enclosed on all sides so a predator cannot ambush them from behind, this is why half logs are no good: they don't provide that security. You can absolutely incorporate them into your set up as cute decor, but they are insufficient as hides. You're gonna want at least one hide on the cool end and one on the warm. I have about 5 total hides in my BP's enclosure, spread out along the temperature gradient.

For substrate you can go simple with paper towels, or fancy with coconut husk or reptibark. I'd suggest staying away from aspen, as it molds really quickly. BP's need at least 60% humidity, and something like coconut husk holds that better without quickly molding. You're gonna wanna make sure that when you are measuring warm side temperatures, that you are measuring the surface of the enclosure, not the top of your substrate. Mine will burrow down and move all of the substrate out of the hide, so I make sure that the warmest part she can get to is never higher than 90F.

Humidity needs to be over 60%, I accomplish this in my PVC enclosure by just keeping a water dish in it, one that is large enough for her to fit in and soak if she wants to. I change it out about every three days (or more often if she decides to poop in it). I don't use anything like ReptiSafe, if I can drink the tap water, so can my animals.

I put leaves and fake vines (plastic, no metal wire) in her enclosure, too. They like to feel invisible and hidden, and these leaves and vines give her some of that while also providing a more natural aesthetic.

u/thisismadeofwood · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

VIVOSUN 48"x24"x60" Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent with Observation Window and Floor Tray for Indoor Plant Growing 2'x4' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dx13BbGGT8164

VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hz13BbPVVN2TK

This light is good for 2 plants but you’ll eventually want to add a second for your tent. You definitely can’t fill the tent with just this light, but it’ll get you started.

iPower 2-Pack 1/8 Inch 8-Feet Long Adjustable Heavy Duty Rope Clip Hanger, Reinforced Metal Internal Gears,150lb Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WIOEDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wA13Bb58ZJ5GD

Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Indoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XA13Bb9NQJDG1

Comfort Zone CZ6C 6-Inch 2-Speed Clip-On Fan (White, 2 Fans) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLUZSPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.E13Bb05JK7B1

247Garden 5-Pack 3 Gallon Grow Bags/Aeration Fabric Pots w/Handles (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JM3JAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VG13Bb7MGJS2R

https://www.oregonsonly.com/samples/

These are great nutrients and basically foolproof. This free sample kit will get you through 4 plants full grows. I love these nutrients and even now use them in a reservoir (which people claim you can’t do but works great).

Dr.meter 0.1pH PH002 High Accuracy pH Meter/pH Pen Tester with ATC LCD 0-14 pH Measurement Range (PH002 pH Meter for Water) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PU0W35K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fI13BbNRES1BK

That will get you started on your first grow or two. I recommend auto blue mystic from nirvana for your first run. They are very low smell while growing so you can get by without a carbon filter. They’re autos so you can leave the light on 24/7, and they finish fast. Also turns out a great finished product.

https://www.nirvanashop.com/marijuana-seeds/815-blue-mystic-autoflower.html

Less than $40 for 5 seeds and very discrete shipping.

When you have a bit more $ you can add on additional items. Eventually you’ll want to upgrade to PFD sun boards or quantum boards, but you’ll probably want to get a fan and filter first:

6" Inline Fan - 395 CFM Exhaust Duct Fan, Built-In Speed Controller, ETL Listed, Pre-Wired 6 FT Grounded Cord - Great Use In Grow Tent With Carbon Filters, Light Fixtures, Intake. Fits 6 Inch Ducts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0D0UEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TM13Bb5170NC1

Activated Charcoal Carbon Filter 6" x 16", Up to 400 CFM, Premium Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, 1.8" Extra Thick Layer of Top Grade Activated Australian Virgin Charcoal-Great for Hydroponics and Growing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0VN4I5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qN13BbEH9AG9W

Maybe you can upgrade to a 2x4 tray with reservoir so you can automate feeding.

If you don’t want autoflowers you can just do 12/12 from seed for faster harvest. https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-how-to-grow-cannabis-from-seed-under-12-12-lighting-n330

But I really recommend doing the auto blue mystic for your first round or two.

u/agoristbastard · 7 pointsr/microgrowery

Hey, I JUST came off building a setup and it cost me $750 total. We have 3 plants in there right now. I have the entire list with amazon links or store suggestions.

Item| Price | Where To Buy
---|---|----
Tent| $95| We bought this one, I don't know if it's worth spending a lot on anything more expensive. For a smaller option I just got a second with good reviews but can't vouch for it yet.
Lights/Hood/Ballast| $140| I got the 600W set, but 400W would make cooling MUCH easier and still get a big yield. For LEDs at similar price, Viparspectra 300W x2 or a single 600W eliminates need for extra cooling potentially (not included here, we used fans from around the house)
ph Test+Control Kit | $25| GET THIS. The water must be pH'd properly for your babies' health.
Cloth Pots| $20 | These are better for aeration, water flow, training, etc. Cheap and reusable too.
Nutrients | $50 | I got the Fox Farms Trio, but there are many good options out there.
Fan + Filter | $150 | This is huge and might be overkill for you. Make sure whatever you get fits your tent vents (This one fits the Apollo tent above with 6" vents).
Ducting | $20 | Connect fan to filter, to tent, to wherever. Might want multiple sizes, check tent vent sizes.
Foil Tape, Metallic | $10 | Here. Metal Duct tape is best duct tape.
Fan Speed Controller | $20 | Useful for if you do get a fan that is slightly overkill!
Fox Farms Ocean Forest | $15 - $40 | You can buy it online and I did for my first 3 bags....then I found it in a local store for $15. There is some controversy with FF lately, it's not organic FYI. There are tutorials on making your own soil if you care, but I like this because I didn't have to use nutes for 3-4 weeks.
Humidifier | $30 | This is the exact one I have. We're in winter so I need it to keep humidity up, you may not.
Dehumidifier | $40 | There are plenty for this much. You may not need this either.
Cal-Mag | $20 | I haven't needed it yet but it's best to have on hand if you do!
Seeds | $75 | I bought from Attitude, chose stealth, and bought like 15 seeds?, so it was expensive. You can get seeds for less.
Jiffy Pellets | $10 | Used to start seeds. There are other options.
Total | $745 | If you buy all this stuff, you have potentially even more than you need to get started, with room for 3-4x more plants than these boxes, and with nutrients to last you for a long long time!

Hope this helps! I'd hate to see you drop so much on it when you don't need to at all.

u/Shaylios · 1 pointr/BallPythons

Thank you all so much for the advice!

I'm really strapped for money right now, so I'm going to try and make her tank work for as long as possible. I put a little amazon shop list together with some of the recommended products - please feel free to take a look and recommend other suitable products. http://a.co/b2h5atL

In the list, I've got multiple different fake plants, some black 1 entrance hides, a complete hide with 4 sides and just a hole, multiple digital thermometers / hygrometers, a kitchen scale, coconut fiber, aspen bedding, a ceramic heat emitter with dome, and a thermostat
(I had already bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO6N0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
would it be suitable? Or should I return it to get the one on the shopping list?)

She does have one of those metal screen tops, but we put a few boxes and such on top for extra security. I may pick up some insulation pads at my local Lowes and attach them to the outsides of the tank to help keep the heat in. Thoughts on that?

Sarah is eating okay. So far we've been giving her 1 little fuzzy each Saturday. Hopefully when I get the scale I'll be able to more accurately assess the food weight vs hers.

Her shed has come completely off! I gave her a nice warm soak shortly after the photos had been taken, and it was like she just wiggled out of it. Hopefully with the substrate change and the addition to the 4 sided humid hide, I won't need to soak her and she can just do her own thing.

When it comes to the ceramic heat emitter, is 60 watts enough? I'm afraid of burning her. The cage is only about a foot tall, and it would have to be in one of those dome lamps that sit attached to the screen. I've been leaning towards getting the "Zoo Med Deluxe Porcelain Clamp Lamp" for the bulb. Has anyone had any experience with this? Will they work together?

I'm absolutely horrified of any fire risks (my house had burnt down about a year and a half ago due to faulty wiring) so are there any tips to help prevent overheating?

Again, thank you all for the amazing advice. Looking at Sarah's previous setup and then looking at everything thats been suggested breaks my heart. I wish I had known sooner that she was being treated this way... But my friend had made it clear that she was "basically an expert" and "knows what to do." Let me roll my eyes a bit harder. As soon as I had seen her bearded dragon laying in sand, I knew she didn't know anything about these poor animals. It takes a few minutes to do some decent research on an animal. Its been just a day since I've reached out to all of you, and look at all this information! You would think in the 3 or so years that my friend had Sarah, she could've taken the time just to do a basic google search...
Some people really should never have animals.

Anyways, sorry for the tangent. Please let me know what you guys think of the products I'm considering! Thank you so much!

u/Battered_Unicorn · 2 pointsr/trees

a [HLG-100 V2 3000k]($150) would work well for two 5 gal fabric bag plants and should yield around 2-4oz a harvest once you get everything dialed in. It doesn't need any additional parts other than a pair of adjustable hangers($5-10) and a 24 hr timer(for setting 12/12 in flower). Something like this is great for ease of use, low heat, and efficiency. I'd suggest a combo of topping and low stress training(LST) to bush out your plants and increase yield, usually i'll shoot for 8/16 main cola heads however the veg time can be quite long with this method. Fabric pots are cheap and effective, and add some super soil(kinda pricey, but worth it) like fox farm ocean forest/ happy frog and you'll almost have enough packed in nutes to last you until flower. Supplement with budget cal/mag and some cheap flower fert like scott's super bloom and your good to go. Also never try to save time in the drying/curing step, by far the most important part imo and one of the most challenging to get right from my experience. Also you can def veg 4 plants under this but if you want a good yielding flower, 2 would be the sweet spot and you can always add another unit down the road.

​

This company makes DIY kits as well for cheaper, however if pure cost to yield is your interest HPS/CMH are still two great options with a few more needed components(duct fans, tubing, light hood). Also check out cobs if your a DIY person. Not as much spread as the quantum boards but pretty damn efficient too.

u/LittleElectric · 1 pointr/succulents

I can recommend the grow light I own, this 300W one, I love it to death honestly. I will warn you that the goose neck growlights also found on Amazon are not very powerful at all, they're usually what first comes up when you search for them so they're often bought. But many people on this subreddit don't recommend them because they're so weak. These types of bulbs (and these ones) will also work but usually need multiple pointed on the plants to achieve good results, a reflector/deflector usually helps with the bulbs, too. These lights also work very well but are rather large and work better for a bigger collection. Succulents can handle heat, not like super excessive but they will be fine in like even the 100's F as long as they're not being burnt to a crisp from the sun. It will just dry their soil out faster which isn't a bad thing honestly!

If you do move them outside make sure it's in the shade for the entire day, putting them into more intense light suddenly can burn them. They need to be introduced to more light gradually so they can become used to it slowly. This usually means an hour or two max in gentle morning sun before they're moved to a shadier place for the rest of the day and letting them get used to that schedule and amount of light for a few days before increasing the amount of light they receive and again letting them adjust to the new increase. It can be quite a hassle and there's much less need for it when putting them under growlights I've found, they don't burn they just get stress color very very fast. But even being out in the shade outside 24/7 will be much brighter than indoors even if it's still not enough light for them.

They will definitely feel loose, that's totally normal. Once they establish their roots into the soil better they'll be much sturdier. For now if you need to hold them up with stakes or some rocks around the base of the stems to keep them from falling out or being wobbly that's totally okay. They should feel more secure after their first watering but will still be somewhat wobbly.

Welcome! Happy to help :)

u/Astrali3 · 3 pointsr/succulents

You may like the science of light post, also accessible via the sidebar.

Also, no, lumens will not always help you. More is typically better, but they're not what we use to help people find a grow light.

Firstly, i will assume that your sempervivums are definitely etiolating; let you tell you straight out that these are typically outdoor plants and that even under a grow light, unless it is strong, they will become leggy and flared out. If the grow light is good enough, they'll close back up and produce webs(if its an arachnodeium). However, lights these strong tend to be a bit more expensive.

​

I have been told that the Feit bulbs available via Amazon work well as grow lights. You'd need a gooseneck lamp or something else to hold them. I've never used said bulbs, so if you purchase them and find them lacking, please let me know so i can stop suggesting them. I use this, but you said you're looking for a supplemental light, not an exclusive light source(Note that this is more then enough for sempervivums and they're happy under it).

Some people use T5 or T8 fluorescent bulbs - if you decide to do this, purchase HO(High Output) bulbs, with a color temperature around 6500K. Typically, you want 3-4 bulbs, and they need to be /somewhat/ close to the succs. This is typically for a rack of multiple succulents. Lastly, try to avoid purchasing the $20 two/three armed grow lights on Amazon - they are typically VERY weak(not strong enough to prevent echeveria etiolation) and are prone to failure. I'm aware this probably doesn't answer all your questions, but i feel like this post is getting a bit long - if you need further help, feel free to reply and i or someone else can answer!

​

EDIT: I'm just gonna add a little bit as i just noticed your bit on spectrums. I find that 'spectrum' lights tend to perform better then led lights which only use red and blue(blurple). I'm not sure if plants utilize infared light, but i have seen that lights which bother to include it typically perform much better - of course, these lights also include multiple other types of LEDs, and so i'm not quite sure.

u/DirtyBongTokes · 1 pointr/microgrowery

CFL's are not great but i've heard of people doing full cycle grows on 100-150 true watts

she wouldn't get massive but you could def veg her long enough to put her outside.

don't look at the equivalent wattage, you need draw wattage atleast 35w per square foot. Those are probably 13 or 23 watt bulbs. If you really want to go CFL do your research, I'd suggest 6-8 23W 5000-6500k CFL bulbs for veg.

again though it might be worth it to buy a proper light and ditch the CFL, the only time CFL is really viable is if you already have the bulbs/sockets and can DIY rig everything together into a frame/box if your time is worth minimum wage you'd probably best buying a light like this

89.99 USD https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Spectrum-Function-Generation-Flowering/dp/B01I4NY8KW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538516694&sr=8-1&keywords=Roleadro+LED+Grow+Light+Full+Spectrum+400W+COB+Lamp+with+ON%2FOFF+Switch+and+Daisy+Chain+Function%2C+2nd+Generation+Plant+Light+for+Flowering+and+Veg

I bought this light first go around, its not great. its not very efficient and really only pulls 165 watts for the cobbs since rest is used for active cooling, its actually a shit chinese LED but itll outperform those CFLs you got by a lot and will suit your needs just fine, I think they have a 2-3 year warranty, you could prob veg 4 plants under this thing if you want to get them like 24" before putting them outside. I did 2 bushed under it and they're doing pretty good.

I topped mine so many times and made them into a bush and right now they're about 3-4 ft one has 8 tops other has like 26 tops, its crazy. pretty tall bushes with a good canopy, mostly grown under 1 of these lights and I later added 2 better brand higher quality component LED's when going into flowering, Right now I am about to enter week 6 flower tomorrow and they are doing great.

Normally I'd be yelling at you to get a proper QB or cree cob setup but since you just wanna grow 1 plant in veg until outdoor flower I think it'd work fine and not break your bank. I think they useCxa3070 cobs, which are not the greatest but they'll work.

be aware it can run a little hot compared to a proper cob kit, ventilation will be a must.


if your budget is a bit more I'd get a 100w kit like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFNXLBK/ref=twister_B07D368BM3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


these are plug and play use top quality components meanwell drivers and cree cob cxb3590 used amongst most DIY builds and I know for a fact 1 of these 100 watt will veg 8 plants to 24" no prob.


I'd really suggest investing in the quality stuff and avoiding the cheap chinese shit.

u/PMme_slave_leia_pics · 4 pointsr/microgrowery

Ok well scrog isn’t about height. It’s about square footage.
For example I can get more out of two plants Scogged at about 2 feet high in my 4 x 4 x 7 foot tent than I could out of 4 tall plants.

It’s about using the “footprint” of the light in the most efficient way.

With tall plants you lose that efficiency. Basically the top of the plant is going to get that sweet light and the bottom is not. So further your plant gets from the sweet spot then the less yield you will eventually pull, especially from the bottom of the plant.

Now one way you could circumvent that is placing lights all around the plants. I just saw a cabinet grow with a sort of vertical scrog.
In one of the weed subs. Maybe someone else can chime in here. But they essentially grew around a vertical screen with led strips surrounding the plants.

But in the end the yield wasn’t great.

But you could essentially grow tall skinny plants with a surround of led strips and an led topper.

Personally I say kiss. Keep it simple stupid.

I scrog. I like scrog I get about 6 ounces per plant per harvest so 12 ounces total out of my 4 x 4
It’s the best method I’ve found after dozens of grows and experiments.

I do not recommend blurple amazon leds. At the very least I recommend hps/mh lamps (that use a lot of power and give off a lot of heat so you need a good exhaust)

If you’re going to go led then start with quantum boards or cobs. Like someone else said they at least have resale value if you decide to stop growing. You can’t get $5 for an amazon blurple I promise you. I tried to sell mine on Craigslist for months in a legal state.

They’ll last years and in the end they’ll cost you less money in electricity. But you’re gonna pay more up front.

this is not much more than a blurple and is good for a 2 x 2 foot space.

Money far better spent than $100 blurple. Better yield better light.

If you want to see what I mean about scrogging, check out my grows on grow dairies

Check out a lot of grow styles and methods.

Read growweedeasy.com back to front. Then start over. Read it again. And again. Then again. And then again.

Then reference it during your grow.

Once you decide your grow method. Then pick lights to fit.

Good luck.

u/Pharmy_Dude27 · 2 pointsr/Hydroponics

The kratky method is a great beginners method to get into hydroponics. I currently have about 30 plants all doing the kratky.

General Hydroponics is a good brand and mix of nutrients. Its simple to use and doesnt require a scale to mesure stuff out. Use a tablespoon to measure stuff or a syringe.

Buy the PH up/down from GH too but be warned you will need to dilute it first or youre in for a fun time trying to correct your PH. (let me know when you get to this step and I can give better directions.

Get a simple PH tester. It will make your life a lot easier. Once I figured out that adding nutrients to my water brought my PH to around 5.9 I stopped testing everytime. (but i recommend that you do use it everytime)

You DO NOT need to grow in soil first, but like /u/BroposkisRump said you can just be careful washing off the roots. GOTO the youtube channels mentioned on check out Khang Starr's video first.

Some advice:

  • Kratky is BEST for leafy plants like basil, lettuce, kale, etc.
    You cangrow those with no effort.

  • Make sure all containers are opaque to prevent algae growth.

  • Get seedlings and sprouts under a grow light to prevent stretching!!

  • If you live in anything but a hot climate you will want a grow tent to grow peppers over winter - And a grow light - Get a digital timer and give your plants around 16 hours of light (you can get cheaper ones but I am showing you what i bought)

  • Get 2 inch net pots and a 2 inch hole saw for your containers

  • A fan on your peppers will help make then thicker and stronger plants and may help polinate them. You can also shake your plant ( thats what I do)


    Thats all I got for now. Once you understand this method try hydroponics using a different method as well.

u/scarsandstories · 1 pointr/microgrowery

you’re right. the superiority complex is definitely the internet in general. i have met a couple super nice people. someone even sent me the break down of how to DIY my own light system. my girlfriend bought me this light for christmas. (only fair since i’m growing for her, ha. i can’t even smoke because of work.) the way my closet is set up there’s a shelf so, it’ll be perfect and easy to hang the right distance away. the PPFD graphic is which? the circular one? wait those say PAR value.

i have seen the posts and also on amazon while i was looking at lights. a lot of them said “newer model available” and just had 2 larger white bulbs. they were also two and three times the price. i figured one light should be okay for 2-3 plants. this way i can use the smaller 75W CFL for tiny clones/seedlings. i was reading reviews to see how it works for other plants, too. obviously since it’s nearly winter i had to bring in all my catnip. plus, i have a garden in the spring so it’ll also be great for my veggies, too.

marijuana is one of the few things that’s fun to learn about because in the end you have a pretty decent reward. well, growing anything in general is. it’s a lot of fun. i also had no idea growweedeasy was put together by a woman. that’s awesome. that’s my go-to site right now. that and this. i’ve spent hours upon hours just reading. with legalization and technology it’s constantly changing and there’s always something new to learn.

u/Thunderous_Pupil · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

I just bought this light and it is the best light I have owned but it's more expensive and not what I started out with.

For someone starting out I would get something like this which is 300 true watts or this which is around 260 true watts. Both are going to make your closet hotter so you may have to get an intake/exhaust fan but they will give you 10x better yield. I have grown with both of them.

I also have a few of these which will still be way better than what you have currently however these blurple lights get a lot of flack from people and weren't my personal favorite. But for $59 right now on Amazon that's a pretty good deal for 165 true watts.

Here's my first grow doing what you are doing

Here's my second grow using the lights I suggested

Edit: If you think you are going to get into growing and take it serious in the future get the light I linked first. It was around $150 after shipping and it takes some diy to put together but it will run way cooler than the other lights and is 15x better than any of the Amazon lights for $50-$100 more. If I could go back and do it again I would get rid of all the Amazon lights and spend the money on some nice quantum boards.

u/bobby2552 · 1 pointr/hydro

Yes! I was in the same situation, trying to come up with a small but effective system in college, and in a small apartment.

My design was based halfway off of what I'd seen from Jeb Gardener on YouTube, and the other half just what I could throw together with what I had lying around. Jeb is a little... well... interesting, but very informative.

Basically, what I did was get a 10-gallon flat stacker tote from Walmart, drill holes in it, put net pots in, clay pebbles, and rock wool cubes, and now I have a garden! It's really tough to describe all of the little intricacies with it, but this community has helped me out tremendously. By no means is my system perfect, and in fact, it's super Jerry Rigged and super jank, but it works! This whole process has been a great learning experience. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask in this community, or if you want to hear more about my system, feel free to DM me! Here are some photos!

Here are the various things I bought off Amazon to get me started!

pH down (the better kind)

pH meter (not available on Amazon anymore)

rockwool cubes (1.5")

General Hydroponics nutrients

pH up & down (the down didn't last very long, but the up seems to work fine. You probably won't need up near as often as down.)

air stones (these seem to do a fine job. Not the best certainly, but they work.)

clay pebbles (not sure what quality these are, but they do their job! Be sure to rinse very thoroughly.)

net pots (these work fine. Nothing special.)

EDIT: Added links to Amazon

u/615wonky · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Start small. It'll save you money, let you get your feet wet, and help you learn how to grow better, and then you can buy bigger.

My "starter package" is:

  • A 2' x 2' x 3' grow tent - $55.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWGYYWO

  • A grow light ($90). I prefer COB's as they're easier to fix than blurples.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I4NY8KW

  • A power strip zip-tied to a pole in the tent. Makes wiring prettier and easier. ($24) I chose a nice metal one, but you can use a cheaper one.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8ZQYHA

  • Hangers to hold the light ($8)
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600

  • A fan and filter ($70), and variac ($90) to filter smell and move air to keep things cool. This combo is overkill for this tent, but I ended up using it on later tents so it's a good long-term investment. You can cobble something cheaper together with some work, but this "just works" out of the box.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q2ER5C/
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS

  • 5 gallon Smart Pot ($7) for growing, FoxFarm Ocean Forest Soil ($16.50), Plant saucer ($7) for growing. You can save some money here by shopping around. In particular, Amazon's price for FFOF is about double what I pay at the (very expensive) local "indoor gardening" center.
    https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pots-5-Gallon-Soft-Sided-Container/dp/B002JUOWB2
    https://www.amazon.com/FoxFarm-FX14053-12-Quart-Organic-Potting/dp/B001I49Q98
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Garden-Treasures-15-31-in-Rust-Plastic-Plant-Saucer/50445000

  • Go Box Plant Nutrients. This should last you several grows.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PS4B08

  • Seed of your choice (let's say $10).

    So for about $420 (heh), you can get your foot in the door and start growing. This is a nice setup too, you can probably save $100 by shopping around, buying used, or doing-it-yourself. I've left off a few odds and ends like dryer duct, Fiskers for trimming, weed fabric pins for low-stress training, pitcher for watering, Mason jars for storage, but you can likely find those or suitable replacements around the house without spending money.

    I also have a Raspberry Pi 3 ($43) with Sense Hat ($37) and metal case ($15) in each of my grow tents to log temperature/humidity and other things. I'm interested in eventually using the GPIO functionality to water my plants too. Not critical, but definitely a nice thing to have, especially if you're the hacker type. If you go this route, you might look at raspiviv.com too.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6FFNY4
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014HDG74S
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722L338Q

    I'm glad I bought a good intro setup because I still use it now that I've upgraded. I now have a 3' x 3' GG Shorty tent with HLG 300 LED for flower, a 2' x 2.5' GG Shorty tent with two 400W Roleadro COB's for veg, and my "intro package" is now my germination/cloning tent (and drying tent too since several people suggested that too). Being able to have three tents (germination -> veg -> flower) working simultaneously is increasing my output quite sharply. I'm doing this to help a relative with cancer, so you may not need to go quite as crazy as I did.

    You mentioned using 35+ gs (~1.25 oz) a month. You probably aren't going to be able to grow that much given the constraints of tent size and light wattage (plus being a first-time grower! You'll learn a lot!). So once you get used to it, you'll probably want to buy more stuff. Marijuana isn't addictive, but growing marijuana absolutely is.

    Once you've got your hardware, the variable cost is seed (~$10), soil (~$5), nutrients (~$20), and electricity (~$30). From that, I'm going to estimate you can grow ~1.5 ozs (you can do more as you learn more though). So you're looking at ~$40/oz after you've made the initial hardware investment.

    Hope this helps. Depression, cancer, and everything else can just go suck it.
u/reticulatedspline · 6 pointsr/IndoorGarden

So I'm gonna be that guy and tell you the answer you don't want to hear which is that you're not likely to be able to achieve what you're trying to do in the location you want without some major drawbacks.

Your seeds aren't thriving because they're not getting enough light. You can tell because your sprouts are so leggy (i.e. tall and thin with few/no leaves). When plants first sprout, they come pre-packaged with leaves that are part of the seed that expand as the plant absorbs water and are what collect the initial light energy which the seedling will then use to construct its own true leaves. If the starter leaves are not receiving enough energy, the plant will delay growing new leaves and instead try to grow taller so that those leaves get better light exposure. That's what causes leggy plants, which bring a host of annoying problems, hence why its usually easier to start fresh and make sure they get light from the get-go. Seeds which are getting enough light will produce very little in terms of stem height but will instead use that energy to start producing more leaves right away. Here's a shot of some lettuce (on the right) with zero legginess and bell pepper seedlings sprouted with minimal legginess. Note that the bell pepper seedlings on the left could probably use yet more light.

Artificial lights put out nowhere near as much as natural sunlight unless you get into the really high caliber stuff. To give you an idea on artificial lighting requirements, here's what's lighting part of my herb garden. That fixture has four 24 watt fluorescent bulbs, coupled with angled reflectors above them to maximize the amount of light hitting the plant. If you're interested, here is that light fixture on Amazon. I recommend this regularly to anyone trying to grow using artificial light. Lux output (a measurement of the amount of light per sq ft) from that is ~15,000 lux at an appropriate distance from the plant, which is about what these herbs need to grow. A single 15 watt bulb like yours probably gets into the 3,000 - 5,000 lux range. You also seem to have a cover over the light, which probably reduces the output as well. Another thing to note is you want your light as close as possible to your plants. They shouldn't be touching it, but they should be (for flourescents at least) maybe a few inches from it. Light saturation decreases rapidly with distance, so the further they are, the less oomph they're getting from it. Your lower hanging plants are getting less light for sure.

Keep in mind that different types of plants have different lighting requirements. Leafy plants light herbs and lettuces can sustain themselves off of something like I showed just fine. However anything that produces a fruit or vegetable will need even more light. Like three or four times as much light as the fixture I showed earlier.

Back in the day most people used something like this, a high pressure sodium light, for their indoor fruits/veggies. This one puts out about 45,000 lux. Think like football stadium lights. These things get painfully bright and also get very hot, plus they require a large ballast (power source) to run. You want your plants at least 2 ft from these otherwise they'll burn. Regardless, it's definitely not something you'd want under your sink, since you wouldn't be able to be in the same room when it was on or else you'd be blinded.

The more recent alternative in artificial light is LED lights. These things put out way less lux, but the light they do put out is concentrated on very specific wavelengths which are ideal for plants. I'm using this one to grow tomatoes and bell peppers, and one light is about enough for one, maybe two plants. They don't get hot at all, but their light output is still uncomfortably bright and the color is just dreadful. Imagine a pink so searing that it makes your head hurt. Here's a picture of some bell peppers, taken from the relative shade under the canopy. Definitely not something you want in your kitchen for the same reason as the HPS: you wouldn't want to be in the room when it's turned on. I grow the bell peppers in a light-opaque grow tent and the tomatoes in a closet I converted for that purpose.

My recommendation: forget about the veggies for now. You're not going to get them to grow without a light source which will be impractical under the sink. Stick with herbs, which work just fine under fluorescent light. Up your light output by getting a higher output light fixture. Rearrange how they hang so that all four of your planters are much closer to the light. And start from scratch once you've done so. You might potential save that batch if you got a new light right away, but they'll have gotten a leggy start, so they'll always be slightly deformed.

u/PartTimeDiurnal · 4 pointsr/snakes

Great! Looking forward to seeing your new buddy. :)

So, carpet pythons are a tropical species, and as such do require specific temperature ranges and humidity levels. Ideally, it should be about 33c on the warm side, and 22c on the cool side. Normally, people control temperature with thermostats. You put the temperature probe above the heater, inside the warm side's hide, and set the temperature you want it to maintain. Bam - instant temperature control!

The next thing you'll want to do is invest in a digital thermometer and hygrometer combo, ideally something with probes that you can place around the vivarium. This will let you double check temps and humidity around the viv. Long term, the thermostat can measure the warm side and your thermometer/hygrometer can measure it on the cool side.

For humidity, you should be aiming for like 50% - 80%. The hygrometer part of your thermometer/hygrometer measures the humidity level. Grab yourself a spray bottle, fill it with water, and give the viv a good misting when humidity levels get too low.

I'd recommend googling "carpet python care" and reading the entire first page of results. There's a lot of great information from a number of knowledgeable keepers there, and it'll help you figure out which suggestions are actually good, and which ones don't make sense.

Do you mind if I ask what country you live in? Sounds like it probably isn't the US (where I'm from)

u/aerogrower · 1 pointr/microgrowery

So this morning when I left for work all I could see was still the white stem way down in the hole. I got home to my first set of cotyledons and also first of real leaves!

I also got a ph control kit today, and it looks like my ph is sitting right around 6, so I believe that is perfect.

I was planning on just giving this a shot with minimal effort to see how it goes. Growing a variety of herbs in the Aerogarden was super easy, and it was hard to keep all the growth under control.

After doing more reading(because when I start doing something I have to do it right) I realized that the LED panel on the Aerogarden isn't even close to the wattage that anyone else is using. The starter package on growweedeasy.com includes a 250w light. The one on the Aerogarden is 20w, but the directions say you can keep it just a couple inches above the plant, whereas all the other guides for higher wattage lights say they need to be kept much further away. I would guess that is just because they have so much more wattage?

I grow lots of normal plants as well and don't get too much actual sunlight, so I have a couple extra reflectors, CFLs, and another LED grow bulb sitting around. I have 1x LED! and 2x CFL! extra.

How does mixing LED and CFLs work? I'm thinking I will need to get this thing all the light I can. Should I get a light socket extender and splitter so that I can get both the CFLs into a reflector, and also use the extra LED?

I plan on low stress training it to keep it as short as possible as the Aerogarden light only extends 12inches. I am able to extend that a few more inches using that knife with a stick taped to it, but then the cable becomes the limiting factor.

I also don't plan on moving it out of the 1gal Aerogarden reservoir, so it will probably be limited in size by that as well. The aerogarden comes with these nutrients!(4-3-6) that I had been planning to follow their recommendations of use which is basically give it 2 capfuls(maybe a couple mL) every other week when you change out the reservoir water. In between feedings just keep the water level high. Should I actually buy legit nutes!, or will the Aerogarden ones do a pretty good job?

Sooo I guess my questions are:
Anyone grown with an Aerogarden before? How'd it work? Any tips?
Anyone mixed LED and CFL lights before? Is that fine to do?
I should definitely use all the lights currently available to me, and I should probably even get a couple more 42w soft white CFLs right?
My goal was to keep this cheap and easy, but I'm thinking I should also get another timer for all these extra lights I plan on using now. Using the Aerogarden timer for the 20w LED and then turning on the other lights manually probably won't be anywhere near as effective, and also takes away from the easy factor.
Can I use the aerogarden nutes to keep this easy and cheap, or should I get some legit nutes?

Thanks!!



u/atpcjm · 8 pointsr/microgrowery

I wouldn't bother with those lights. I was on the exact same boat as you a couple of weeks ago. Skmood1 actually pointed me in the right direction.

I'm not sure what your budget is, but you may want to look into COB LIGHTS. They are 1000 leagues better than the viparspectra and all those LEDS in the same tier. They use pretty old tech apparently.

I just started to learn ins and outs of LED, if I'm wrong here, please correct me
Lets take a look at a couple of the numbers Vipar provides (last picture on amazon). Looking at their spectrum sheet, right off the bat the light you selected will under perform where it matters, flowering; buds. It lacks a good deal of red spectrum light. However with that said, it'll be a decent light for veg, worth it? No, but decent. I won't say worth it, because now you want to look at efficiency and lumen per watt. Efficiency in terms of led is basically how much light is produced versus heat from your LED panel.
The Vipar has a pretty shitty efficiency, it loks like you'll be prducing 67% of heat vs 33% of usable light. With COBs, you can essentially choose your own, going all the way up to 70% light. With lower efficiency, you'll get more lumen per watt (more light, I guess?). The next step up are Quantum Boards, but those are always out of stock!

Just a heads up, COBs are generally more expensive outright, and there maybe a little DIY involved, but it totally worth it. I was running the 600w viparspectra PAR series for 2 weeks, and my seedlings grew about 3 inches. I moved over to a 2 cob array (less power than my vipar), and in 1 day I see 2 new growth leaves, both plants grew at least half an inch, I was blown out of the water.

P.S.- this one looks better: Mars Hydro 300w
https://www.amazon.com/MarsHydro-Spectrum-Certification-Hydroponic-Greenhouse/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_86_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FHW46JTAZPEMSK6H1VS4&dpID=51clUyqI-5L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

Check out the spectrum chart! Good luck and have fun. I killed sooooo many seedlings, purchased sooooo many unnecessary things, but the people here helped me every step of the way. You're in proper hands.

u/firecrackerrock · 10 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

Lights: I have the mars hydro 300 (132 true watts) as my main light on the top, and plan to add a couple strips for side lighting in the near future.

Ventilation: As you may see from the pictures, I have the heat exhaust on the top side. The exhaust is being pulled into a secondary tote. In the secondary tote I have a large carbon filter attached to a 6 inch inline fan with variable speed control. This kit. Definitely overkill but I like the room for expansion.

I plan to start growing in a 3 gallon smart pot knock off, with some ak-48 autoflower seeds.

I have really enjoyed watching this community grow through the years.

Thank you everyone for your wonderful contributions. Guys like /u/Ekrof, SAG, /u/Halfmpty, /u/exactly25smeckles, and the rest have really inspired me to try this for myself.

I would like to add some filtration to my passive intake, any suggestions?

u/MySecretGardenIsDope · 0 pointsr/microgrowery

I thought I'd share my experience for the community, and hopefully my experiences help or encourage others to give this a shot on their own. I had absolutely no experience growing anything when I started, so if I can do it, so can anyone else!

I've got an equipment list of the stuff I'm using since it took me a long time to figure out what to buy. This doesn't include the $1.50/week for RO water from the local grocery store, the electricity, or the other stuff I ended up buying afterward for my clones.

No grow tent or ventiliation is needed for my scenario since I have full access to a basement. It's perfect since there is a water heater and a boiler in the same room so the temp is always pretty constant, there is plenty of CO2 from the gas that the appliances burn, and the humidity is also pretty constant.

A few of the mistakes I made that I'd fix next time:

  • Buying a heating mat for germination/clones. I only got 1 out of 5 seeds to germinate, and thankfully that one turned into a good plant. I think heat was where I went wrong since I also tried to do clones without a mat and none of them rooted. When using the mat I bought, I had much, much better success.

  • After transplanting my germinated seed, I let that plant go too long in a small container and it got a little root bound. Should have transplanted sooner.

  • I was in the veg stage longer than I think I needed to. Went on vacation in the middle and that screwed up my schedule a little bit, but I think I'd be better off with less veg time for the next plant

  • Buy a better pH pen. I cheaped out on that and I've never gotten it calibrated correctly, so I've been using the dropper/eye test method with the General Hydro test kit that comes with the pH Up/Down. That method seems to work just fine, but it's kind of a hassle.

    The images have some details about my grow, but I'll be happy to answer any other questions folks might have.

    Item | Cost | Product Link
    ---|---|----
    Seeds (OG Kush Feminized, 20ct) | $80 | Marijuana Seeds NL
    Coco Coir | $17 | Kempf Coco
    300W LED Lighting | $80 | GalaxyHydro
    Plastic Pot | $0 | Craigslist - Free
    Light Timers | $12 | Light Timers
    pH Tester | $18 | pH Pen
    pH Up and Down | $16 | General Hydro
    Jeweler's Loupe | $6 | Magnify Me
    Nutes | $35 | Canna Coco 1 & 2
    Perlite | $13 | Black Gold
    CalMag | $17 | Botanicare Supplement
    TOTAL | $294


    Also, THANK YOU to everyone in this sub. There is a ton of info out there about growing, but this place is the best location I found for timely info related to my new hobby.
u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/eldertrees

I started with 100 bucks bought 4 t8 shop lights from home depot, 2 pieces of plywood, and 4 5 gallon buckets. Used organic miracle grow and was in business.
I got like 4 ounces of bud from that investment, but it was a pain too use and I had so many problems, that the 2nd and 3rd harvests; were so bad I was dry for 3 months.

But I've learned a lot since than if you have the money, these items will save you the bullshit that i went through.

600w grow light $200

[Carbon Air Filter]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052ZPMAG/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $175

Some Bubble pack insulation at home depot $50-100

[General Organics]
(http://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Box-Starter-Kit/dp/B004PS4B08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367524539&sr=8-1&keywords=General+Organics) $40 starter box will last one cycle

these should get you through your first grow np. and I've already recouped all of the money I've spent on these items with the first harvest, I was paying 350 an ounce before hand to a dealer and now for way pennies on the dollar I have the dankest dank around and it's fucking awesome fucking awesome.

Reading is ok but once you get started you'll realize that most things people post are bs and the best way to learn it is to just do it, and experiment on your own; most things look much harder than they actually are.

I feel so liberated now that I can produce my own and the money that you save omfg the money you save.

u/blakegrows · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Two days ago, the Tangilope's leaves went a little limp. Upon inspection of the soil, it appeared to me it was due to the cup starting to fill with roots and quickly sucking the cup dry of most water. I do not believe it is over-watering, but I could be mistaken. Last night, I decided to move it to a 2gal smart pot filled with approx. 3/4 Roots Organics and 1/4 chucky perlite moistened for a very light and airy mix. I then used approx. 6oz of water to water mostly around the root ball (no run-off, I didn't want to drown it). It's still growing, but I'm hoping the leaves will bounce back to their perky selves soon. I plan on letting the soil dry out quite a bit before the next watering. And as soon as it bounces back and grows one more node, the topping and LST will begin.

The Vanilla Kush is getting big quick, and I'm liking how wide the leaves are looking already. I was hoping to get a more Indica pheno to balance the tangilope. I looked at the rootball last night, and I think it could go a bit longer without transplant. I watered it again this morning, so it will be ready for a transplant tomorrow night.

Things are looking pretty good so far, and I'm getting excited now that the plants are starting to move along. I can't wait to train my first couple plants. Topping, tying, and scrogging to come. Thanks for looking

INFO

Plants: (1) Feminized Barney's Farm Vanilla Kush & (1) Feminized DNA Genetics Tangilope.

Tent: 3'x3'x6' Apollo Tent

Light: iPower 600w closed hood running at 50% for seedlings and about 14" away from plant.

Fan: 440CFM exhaust fan

Carbon Scrubber: 6"x16" phresh filter

Soil: 1/3 roots organics & 2/3 pro-mix HP for seedling stage

Nutes: General Organics GO Box

Pots: RR > solo cup > 1 or 2gal smart pot > 5gal smart pot > 7 (maybe)

PH Kit: General Hydro

Seed Starter: Rapid Rooters

u/skoomd1 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

You can definitely make things work for 500$.

If you can't squeeze a COB (chip on board) led light suitable for a 2x2 in your budget, check out this 300w galaxyhydro (140 real watts). Normally you'd want the 600w model for a 2x2 grow space (270 real watts) but if you can afford the 600w model, then you can afford a simple DIY COB led set up instead using 2x Bridgelux Vero 29 gen 7 cobs at 2100-2800mah current for a total of 160-200w output of 50% efficient led lighting to go in it's place.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


That galaxyhydro 300w is hands down the best chinese blurple LED panel for flowering, as while you cant find the spectrum listen online, there is a video where a guy hits it with a spectrum meter and it is like 80%+ red wavelengths and maybe 15% blue and 5% other wavelengths, plus IR and UV. It REALLY shows in yields in the end. My marshydro cant compare.

The spectrum is higher in red light than any HPS and the plants grow night n day to hps as they remain very compact still with this led panel.

Another blow to the mighty HPS (ex) king.



The extremely heavy red spectrum, plus the IR and UV, is capable of hitting as high as 1.24 grams and likely higher as I just got 5.7oz from that galaxyhydro 300w which is a true 130w my second run with it (first run was close to 1g per watt). That picture i linked up there is the plant in question.

Most people are really lucky to hit 1 gram per watt from any LED panel out there. Considering i bough mine on ebay for just 60$ and can get 5-6 ounces under it pretty easily and I spent 120$ my marshydro that gives more like 0.8 grams per watt so I am happy as can be with those yields.

u/Mitten_Punch · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Maths: 8 sqft footprint @ 50w/sqft = 400w. That's actual. So. . .

  • a 400w HID.
  • around 400w actual of the chinese panels you are looking at. The "300w" model is 136w actual draw--the "300w" is a marketing thing and not to be trusted. Three of those would be great coverage of the 2x4 rectangle.
  • COB or high-end LEDs would probably need 250w or so.

    You can go less. Especially in veg. But getting close to 400w will be your best bet for flower.

    edit - Your other questions:

  • Ventilation depends on the light you choose. Whatever you choose, you will want a 4" inline fan as your exhaust up top. Probably don't need an intake fan--you can just use the passive flaps. If you go HID, there's a bit more involved (CoolTube style hood, separate ducting and a duct fan). Your room has AC, so temperature should be easy enough to dial in. Recommend a [digital temperature controller] (https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Itc-308-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B01MDSWXY4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485814816&sr=8-3&keywords=inkbird+temperature+controller) to tell your fans when to kick on and off. Makes things very simple.

  • I veg in my 2x4 (under a dimmable 400w HID). If it was my only tent, I'd probably run three plants. Veg for 6-ish weeks, put plants under a ScrOG net, flip to flower. Two would be great, too. Just a little more veg time to fill the tent.

  • Power depends on how much energy costs where you live. The lights and fans will draw ~430w, 18 hours/day (12 in flower). You'd have to do the math with your prices. For me, that's about $15/mo. Plan on higher AC costs as well though. Most people exhaust outside of the room. All lights put out significant heat.

    Best advice/guess, based on your questions: Two "300w" Mars/Viperspectra/Etc panels and a 4" inline fan. For now. Get plants going, try and save up for a third light in 8 weeks or so.

    And look around at other panels. I'm not knowledgeable about what the best buy is right now. This Roleadro 200w actual cheap COB panel looks interesting. /r/SpaceBuckets likely has good advice.
u/sserpzsehtuol · 2 pointsr/Autoflowers

If you're open to alibaba, you can get much more for your money by buying a quantum board there. Should be able to get 200w+ of QB from alibaba... look around here because they're posted all over. They keep changing so I don't bookmark them but they are cheaper than HLG and the same technology.

​

OR you could easily grab two 65w QBs off Amazon for $200 and have 130w QB lighting in there which is a bit less than most people recommend, but so would two viparspectras be.

​

2x4 should be 400 TRUE WATTS (not advertised numbers) of blurple, or 200-240w of QB by most people's calculations.

​

Those two viparspectras are likely not even close to 400w of true blurple lighting. They may say "600w" or "1000w" each but that's a lie. Read further down on the item description and it will tell you the true draw, which is likely closer to 100w each than anything else. So your two viparspectras would probably be like HALF the lighting you need, while your two QBs would be more than that, and way better lighting overall with better penetration for faster growth.

​

My little 65w QB beats the brakes off a 135w blurple I used to use for reference.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Board-Grow-Bloom-4000K/dp/B076QDKVDZ

u/Nyvix · 9 pointsr/haworthia

I’ve only ever grown with artificial lights (unique living situation) so here’s some I can personally vouch for and recommend.

Sansi bulbs. I have the 24W model (fits in any standard desk lamp) and the 15W lights. These have special lenses that focus the beam very strongly in one spot, like a spotlight so it can be raised pretty high and cover a large-ish area. Don’t underestimate these, I put a plant too close to center and it turned jet black in 2 days. He bounced back just fine but these are definitely strong.

Strip lights. I’ve since upgraded my Sansi’s to these with a dedicated shelf. These aren’t as strong, I talked to a user on r/Succulents that reported haw etiolation 9 inches away from the light. However, once she lowered it to 5 inches they said they get amazing stress coloration. To put it in perspective, they said they had a Black Prince that’s always been green but has since gone black like the plant’s supposed to be.
As a bonus, here are the shelves I use, they are exactly the same dimensions as the lights.

Both are very capable depending on your needs.

Edit 11/26/19: Sooo, the strip lights have shot up to $200 for some reason. When I linked them, they were only $49. It’s either a stock issue or the new price, not sure.

u/huhthatscool · 3 pointsr/aeroponics

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

u/King_of_Anything · 1 pointr/Citrus

>It gets direct sun from like 3-6pm, so it has some natural light.

I notice it's developing a lemon rather nicely, so if you've had that plant in the location for half a year or more, then it seems pretty happy. However, if it's a new plant (or was newly moved to that location), additional supplemental lighting could be beneficial.


>I was looking at like 150-300 W bulbs because I had no clue. I was also looking at the blurple ones because I also had no clue

150W Bulbs are definitely overkill unless they're incandescent, and most of the energy from those bulbs radiates out as heat. I personally prefer full spectrum LEDs because I don't want the inside of my house to look like a nightclub (blurple is hard on the eyes) and LEDs are more energy efficient, outputting more light and less heat.

>Does the housing you put the bulb in matter? Do you just use one of those cheap metal ones from Home Depot?

Keep in mind that since you already have a red/blue spectrum grow lamp in that picture in addition to the window, so if you want more supplemental lighting, you probably don't need to go the full 36W that I linked earlier. The 24W version is probably sufficient. It's a pretty big bulb, so just make sure you find a housing that is big enough to fit it and is compatible both with its E26 Socket and its Wattage. I know some folks who use this sort of thing with it, and home depot probably offers something similar.

u/InEmbers · 2 pointsr/succulents

Absolutely, I think it would really do some good for them! I recently got my grow lights for my winter / fall set-up and they've been working wonders. I've gotten 2 happy blooms in response and tons of compact growth and sun stress.

I've been using these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RTVD1HJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They're bright white like natural light and very strong and effective. They can be pretty close to your plants and not scorch them, and produce a moderately warm heat (it never gets to be too much from being on 16 hours) which I've found helps protect them from getting too cold since I keep my apartment kind of chilly!

I've also seen a cheaper option, used as a single lamp bulb by a reddit user in r/haworthia here. It's a lower price point and I nearly got it for a starter grow light. If you're wary of spending too much, I'd recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRKT56T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4VprDbKA7T01X they've said a lot of good things about it!

u/70ms · 1 pointr/Bonsai

After a different LED bulb with terrible heat dissipation nearly caught on fire, I'm trying this one out:

https://smile.amazon.com/SANSI-Daylight-Spectrum-Gardening-Residential/dp/B07BRKG7X1

The spectrum seems more toward the 5000k side, but I'm pretty impressed with the spread and intensity. It actually looks like my catlin elm is sitting in its own pool of sunlight. I have a fair bit of experience with lighting for a saltwater tank & macroalgae refugium and so far I'm happy with this for the tree. The LEDs are a blend of:

Blue (400-499nm) 19.46%
Green (500-599nm) 37.70%
Red (600-699nm) 36.23%
Far Red (700-780nm) 6.61%
PPF 98.28μmol/s

Heat dissipation seems to be great as well. Hope that helps.

I'm in SoCal and feeling you on the heat - we have some cool weather right now, but summer is rearing its head. :( My garden beds have been empty for the past 3 seasons because I just cannot for the life of me keep them from drying out!

u/Ron_Fuckin_Swanson · 2 pointsr/houseplants

If you are just going to use a clamp light...I highly recommend this style of clamp grow light on Amazon

In terms of bang for your buck, these are fantastic. They throw a lot of light, and its a nice warm white as opposed to the pink/purple that a lot of grow lights put off. They do get a little warm to the touch (like a dimmed down incandescent light bulb) on the back when they are on...so if kids or pets may be an issue, you might want to go with the long slender tube style grow lights you can find on Amazon as those don't get warm at all. They aren't as bright, but they don't get hot.

The one caveat with this particular light is it doesn't have a timer built in. But I actually prefer that. You can use a simple appliance timer that you can get at any big box home improvement store...or...you can use WIFI outlet plugs that are app controlled from your phone. These have built in timer functionality.

I prefer using the wifi plugs because it gives me more control. Like..say its the summer time, and you don't have your lights running all that much or at all. But, a big day of thunderstorms runs through. You can open the app, turn on the light, and set a countdown timer and the light will turn off after say 6 hours.

There are a lot of grow lights with built in timers on Amazon...but the way those work is say...you turn the light on at 10AM and set it to 8 hours. Well, every day its going to come on at 10AM and run for 8 hours now. That might be all well and good, but what if you stay home sick? Or it's the weekend and you want to use the room without a grow light blaring in your face. Or what if it's a holiday and you don't want the bright light bugging you?

Also...If you are ever in the market for an LED bulb style grow light, SANSI makes the best. This 24 watt grow light is bright as can be. I have one mounted on a tripod speaker stand that I can move around the house to add supplemental light should it be required.

Currently I have one pointed down at some oxalis bulbs that I have growing so that they get a steady 8 hours of direct light per day to help speed up the starting process.

u/CptNasty · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

I recently upgraded to one of these.


It is more than I need, but that was the idea as I wanted to expand my collection. My VFT, drosera, and s.purpurea all love it and have colored up really nice. My B52 in particular has been throwing up huge traps with deep maroon centers and my d.multifida is ruby red. I'm in love.

Incidentally I have some regular ol' un-named houseplants, an odd orchid, etc. and they sit "near" the light. They enjoy the extra light as well even though they don't need it.

It is very bright and the light it gives is purple so you have to account for that, enclosing it or something.

u/boisebear21 · 1 pointr/Bonsai

Some information on my Ginseng Ficus.

Height: 18 in. (including pot) and Width: 9-10 in.

For the upcoming 9 months, I'll be living inside of an apartment and looking to start growing my Bonsai in that environment. The main concern I have is lighting, I have no southern-facing window with the only window I have being eastern-facing. This window isn't even the biggest and I'm concerned about the health of my tree if it had to live in these conditions. However, the option for a glow lamp should hopefully solve this issue. The issue in that being I have zero clues what glow lamp is optimal for my scenario nor what exact specifications I need to look for in a glow lamp. I've down small amounts of research and found you need roughly 300 nm-800 nm spectrum but am unsure if that's actually true. If anyone could provide some guidance or insight on what I should be looking for that'd be greatly appreciated.

I've attached three glow lamps I show through amazon that seemed like viable options(my price range is $50). Also, I've included an image of my bonsai tree to hopefully give you a better understanding of what I'm dealing with.

Lamp 1

Lamp 2

Lamp 3

Ginseng Ficus Photo (This was not taken in the apartment I'll be living in, just another angle of the tree)

Thanks for reading! If you have any recommendations or lamps that have worked for you in the past I'd appreciate it if you commented those below. I'm looking for lamps that can be attached to a desk as that's where my tree will be.

u/aeriea · 9 pointsr/succulents

They're under this Apollo Horticulture GL60LED Full Spectrum 180W LED Grow Light from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGFW0XO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wvS4DbB3R91HY) about 11 - 12 hours a day.

The soil is a 60/40 ish mix of Miracle Gro cactus mix and bonsai jack. I sifted a thin top layer to create a finer layer of dirt for the seedlings to root into initially.

Temperature fluctuates, but I would estimate that they're kept between 67-74 depending on the season.

I also grew them in the KORAM 10 Sets Seed Starter Trays (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX0JBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HDS4Db30AQAJR), so I kept the soil moist pretty much constantly until recently when I've been able to neglect them more and let it dry out a bit. I admit my watering is kind of arbitrary and I've been hoping for the best since this was my first attempt at growing from seeds lol. I have another more detailed comment somewhere else that I could find if you need more info 😊

u/Cuicos · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Imho they will be fine, I've finished plants with similar or colder weather and some overcast days but not constant maybe two and a half days per week, if yours are just cloudy then better. They may take a little longer to mature though. Yeah a 12/12 or similar to your sunset/rise time is ok too, I was just trying to make it clear with the question it wasn't mockery just letting you know haha.
Leds are often advertised with their equivalent wattage of those old bulbs, much like cfls, not what the bulb actually draws. Like this one is actually around 25w, this is about 130w, and this are about 255w. I would get this 600 last one over the other recommended viparspectra, more bang for your buck and less bulky.

u/BreadstickNinja · 2 pointsr/HotPeppers

Hey there! I think you're going to have trouble growing in the window if you're facing north. South is best, and I've grown nice window plants with good east and west exposure, but never north.

I think your best bet is to do a small indoor set-up like mine. This is where I start my peppers before moving them outdoors. I have three of these panels suspended from a shelving unit, and I'm growing below using Khang Starr's 2-cup method. The lights are on a timer for 16 hours of light and 8 hours of dark, but you could get away with a little less if it keeps your roommate happy.

I actually germinate the seeds in a starter with a heating mat to keep it around 85°, but while that will speed up germination, it's not completely necessary. You can also get good results by germinating the seeds in a paper towel, dampened with water, and sealed in a ziploc bag.

Last thing is the fertilizer solution for the bottom cup. I use MasterBlend 4-18-38, mixed with the recommended amounts of ammonium nitrate and Epsom salt. I've had really excellent results so far.

If you get started soon, I don't think you'd outgrow a small setup by mid-May.

u/schrecka7 · 2 pointsr/succulents

For large scale, shelving grow light set ups, I like the Durolux Led https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GJ11ZC/ref=pe_2640190_232748420_TE_item but an LED bulb like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BRKT56T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with an aluminum clamp lamp reflector is nice and adjustable for smaller (and cheaper!) setups.

You can also do yourselves a favor by picking varieties that tolerate low-light light like Crassula, Haworthia, and Gasteria: https://mountaincrestgardens.com/indoor-succulents/

Such a sweet idea. Good luck!

​

u/Combative_Douche · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

For veg/clones you should be using 6500k lights or T5 lights, not 2700k. 2700k is for flowering.

That soil says "feeds up to 4 months". In general, you don't want soil with built-in fertilizer. Get the FF soil and some perlite. You're going to want 25-40% of the mix to be perlite.

Don't use Miracle Grow. Go with Fox Farms Trio or GH GO Box. If you really want to save money on nutes (you don't), grab some fish fertilizer ($8 at Home Depot) for veg and Morebloom ($6 at Home Depot) for flowering. If you go with the cheap nutrient options, it'll show, but it's better than nothing.


HID isn't complicated. You don't need to be smart to set it up. A system like this comes with everything you need. Any real light system (including LED) is going to require ventilation (inline fan and duct).

Good luck! Keep us updated.

u/lablizard · 2 pointsr/gardening

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PH1MQV8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

This will make the room violently pink, but casts a lovely width of lighted area and is super bright.

So far, my indoor tree is loving it and bounced back from acclimating to the new pot and location since it was from a nursery. He was a seriously un happy tree, I thought I would lose it. This light is awesome.

u/absolutelystoopid · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

just want to chime in here, I was in the same boat as you. Starting out as just an experiment seeing if I could actually sprout a seed, turned into a dedicated project :p But I can tell you I didn't have any idea with like lights, tents, air filters etc. So first thing I bought was this LED , but a better option would be this Viparspectra (the one I bought though has been just fine) and just hung it in my closet with the plant, and that's it. veg'ed it for 4 weeks just like that with the light on a timer and my closet door closed. (get a little desk fan to to move some air over the leaves) Then I figured I'd switch to flower, and was kinda on the edge about investing in a tent and carbon filter. but every thread I read about smell, veterans would always say "It's gonna smell a lot!" So I bit the bullet and got a 2x2x4 tent and this carbon filter and fan . You can probably use your DIY carbon filter just fine. Anyway, long story short, I started to flower and literally two days later I walk into my house after work and the smell just hits me. And this is just one plant. So definitely invest in that stuff. But as for the PC fan, unfortunately it's not going to have enough static pressure to force air through a carbon filter. You don't have to go with the one I got, like brotha said the duct boosters will work too. If you have any question let me know cause I relate very well to your situation, except I've now been halfway through the process lol. pm me if you want

u/my_age_88forshort · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Honestly, you need to get on a forum such as rollitup and start reading the stickies at the top of each section until you have a better understanding. Read, Read, Read and read some more. Are you doing this for fun? Dropping a seed in soil to see if it sprouts? Or are you serious and really wanna grow some bud. If its the second option than lets be logical. How much bud do you think you could get off a plant that's growing in a small cup? I know some people start their seedlings in solo cups but from the pics it looks like your trying to do the entire grow in the solo cup. Man, there are just way too many bases to cover here but please do not give up. Keep growing the plants you have while you do more research from an informational dense place such as what I mentioned above. Just to touch on some bases you gotta get those plants out of those solo cups and into larger containers. You need A Lot more light (cfl's by the pic) and get them within 3 inches of the light or they will keep stretching the way they are. I wouldn't even expect much off those plants either. Just apply everything you learned from this grow and from your research to your next and hopefully it will be more successful. Here is a good complete line of nutrients for someone starting out and it should give you an idea of what your plant needs to thrive. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004PS4B08/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1419201497&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40 Nutrients really don't matter if your plant isn't in a big enough container and is not getting enough light so take care of those two things first.

u/celestiaequestria · 1 pointr/gardening

A 10-watt LED won't do anything for your plant, the 36-watt bulb is slightly better, but ideally you want something like a 300-watt HPS replacement. LED grow lights are a nice starting point for smaller citrus.

In practice, the more light, the better, citrus are subtropical plants and generally thrive in warmth and strong daylight.

u/lewdite · 1 pointr/Peppers

Windowsill can be okay, habaneros are REALLY slow going to start and they like hot, dry climates so I imagine scotch bonnets are similar. Growing indoors is difficult (especially in a shared dorm room... I was in a double-turned-triple at UC Davis and it wouldn't have worked in that room) but not impossible! I bet you have Amazon prime student:
https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=zg_bs_14252961_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T1T4RJ6TMQ6D72FXWJB3

and
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Durable-Waterproof-Seedling-Hydroponic/dp/B00P7U259C/ref=zg_bs_14252891_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=J91JPXDTJ5F52TMWZE78

along with some containers and high quality organic soil will be enough to get you growing! You'll want to keep seedlings under a CFL until they have two well developed leaves, then you can stick it ~ 30" below the light. The difficult part is getting peppers to form... peppers put out flowers in the mid-late summer when nighttime temperatures are highest, cold temps will make it difficult to fruit so chances are you'll be waiting until late next spring no matter what... in which case you have to wonder if it's worth spending $100 on equipment (where you live next year might be a factor). On the bright side, the light supports a solid 3x3 area and you could try growing a few things. Good luck! Don't forget to study lol

u/MrGoodKat86 · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Nice cheap light

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XC3LBI2/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1498932753&sr=8-20&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=RoleadRo&dpPl=1&dpID=51mUVXHUvzL&ref=plSrch

Seeds

https://www.seedsman.com/en/cannabis-seeds/flowering-type/autoflowering-feminised-cannabis-seeds?dir=asc&order=price

Grow tent

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NGZ216U/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1498932973&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=grow+tent&dpPl=1&dpID=51K5M7TCfmL&ref=plSrch

Personally I like soil. Easier to diagnose and remedy in my opinion. Can't cheap out on the soil though. Fox farm gives good results and can be found at almost every nursery or online.

Heard decent things about this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010NQR5WQ/ref=cm_cr_srp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

Inline fan

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XJYR2R7/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1498933348&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=inline+fan+carbon+filter+combo&dpPl=1&dpID=41zr9rEHVKL&ref=plSrch

If you can squeeze any extra money out I'd put it into the lights.

Also check the side bar and all this stuff can be found in there. I just smoked so I'm feeling especially helpful lol.

Anyway remember it's a weed and will grow you just have to have the patience to let it. Also remember to have fun.

Good places to start.

http://www.growweedeasy.com/basics

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHWaWOfju3y4PIoQtO4B6KWQIY6wng_UD

u/TheLordOTheDouche · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets

Hi, fellow bucketeer!

Just started my build as well. I'm going with some extra large bins from Target and a 300w led from amazon - This one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PH1MQV8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also bought the 5050 LED lights like you did, but I was wondering if one of the more knowledgeable people can tell me how effective those are?

I'm just not sure. I've heard that the only thing that matters for growth is the wattage that comes out of the wall that the lights are drawing, and those aren't drawing a whole lot.

Good luck with your grow! I'll be doing two OG kushes in the bucket, and I'm going to start 2 AK47s in the bucket, eventually moving them outside. Exciting!

u/literocola431 · 1 pointr/bostontrees

a good starter pack of nutrients - a small sized grow tent that can fit 4 plants - a fan ventillation system that will handle the smell when you get to flowering - airpots if you want to grow from soil - or DWC hydro buckets if you want to go hydro note that these are pretty easy to DIY, buckets are $5 ea and pumps run $20-50. LED lights to grow with for $160 or you can skip up to the good stuff and go with Quantum Boards which are far superior - not on amazon You can do a lot of your own work on these boards to make them not as expensive.

After your get some seeds, either from bag seed or from an online seller, its really just a matter of paying attention to what the plants are doing and keeping a good schedule with your nutrients or watering. There is a ton of information online, both on reddit and elsewhere that can guide you with anything.

u/samlikesturtlez · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Yeah - I have seen the pre built panels that feature COB (chip on board) LED's such as this one but I really do think if you are going to shell out money for a COB LED when you already have (2) Mars panels you spent money on then you might as well do it right and put your own together. As far as the actual COB's go, there are many to choose from. I would try watching some growmau5 videos on youtube if you want to learn more about COB's - he helps a lot.

The Cree CXB3590's are considered some of the best COB's out right now, they are pricey! Citizen's are popular, and Vero's too, but I went with Luminus CXM22's. If you go the route I did, make sure you get Gen 3 version, they compare in specs very well to any other COB's out there and they are affordable at 19$ per.

u/mghoffmann · 1 pointr/hydro

Thanks for your reply!

All of the plants have roots in the water, and some of them have new white growth, but not a ton. About 7 out of my 24. I'm still not seeing new green growth on any of them.

I'm using this nutrient mix, with about 5 cups of the recommended mixture dissolved into my ~30 gallon tank. I'm using PH Up and PH Down from Lowe's. I don't know what acids/bases they are, but they're specifically marketed for hydroponics. I've only had to adjust the PH down, from 7.9 to 6.1.

I actually bought some larger plants that are already blooming and fruiting yesterday, so I was planning on refreshing my water and remixing my solution and then transplanting the more mature plants today or tomorrow, but if the crowns can be salvaged I'd like to save them too.

u/Toomanypasswords · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I think an led would be perfect as they run cool but still have power and spectrum options, perfect for tight spaces. I am flowering with a viparspectra600 (actual 267w) led in a 2x3x5 cabinet and love it. https://imgur.com/a/YjnNO

Using every inch of your grow space wisely, and guiding the plants structure will help you maximize yield and plant health.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETLC7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lmYPAbA3BPVXP

u/vinney1369 · 2 pointsr/Hydroponics

You mentioned that you were thinking of having three 5 gallon pails of tomatoes and peppers, and if that is the case this light isn't gonna cut it. Without looking up the item, it looks like something you could use on seedlings or small young plants, but tomato plants get big, and its not likely this light would support them long term. It should be fine for lettuce assuming your plants aren't really spread out.

Honestly I would find something in the 300w range for three plants, such as this if you want to go LED. If you are looking to save money on the fixture, I would suggested some full spectrum CFL bulbs instead. Bar or coil bulbs should be fine either way, but you'll need a couple of them for good light disbursement.

(For the record, I did try to look this up but was unable to find it.)

u/Delucabazooka · 1 pointr/microgrowery

haha I literally just bought this last night for my first grow. Iv'e seen a few people recommend it as a good cheaper light. but the advice I see the most is the more expensive lights are usuially better quality. another company that gets a lot of love is black dog so I expect their lights are good quality.

Edit: I found the thread that convinced me to get these lights. Here

u/ArastosLilas · 19 pointsr/succulents

I've always thought it was pretty junky... I've wanted to get lights to put on the tops of the shelves, so they're directly above the plants and maybe find a new shelf. But these have worked out since November of last year! I started using really cheap LED lights from Walmart, highest wattage equivalency with the highest color spectrum(usually 5000k).

​

I now use these:

u/Dont_throwaway420 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Thanks for your feedback, and these are questions I should consider as I’m starting my grow.

I guess as I begin, I was hoping to find an ideal route that would allow me to adapt as I go. I have a decent amount of space for growing (an entire 10x10 room) and am willing to budget fairly for what’s needed. I just don’t want to overextend, as I will just grow for personal use (albeit, I do smoke quite a bit). I want to keep the plants “clean” and as healthy as possible, and hope to test out a few different strains. For lights - I’m willing to go as suggested, but initially considered LED (maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETLC7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0a0aAbD9B8DYH).

I’d love to connect and chat if you have more insight for a beginner grower. Thanks for your initial feedback!

u/Cataractarum · 2 pointsr/houseplants

Always happy to share knowledge. :) All my lights are diy pendant lights so I don't have personal suggestions for clamp hood setups but here are a few suggestions:

Clamp light fixture - No personal experience with this one but it's a broader clamp hood to accomodate larger LED lights but they may poke out of the bottom of the hood. Ymmv


LED Light suggestions:

  • Sansi - This is the light I use and I really like it. I have no useable windows in my apartment so all my plants are under 4 of these lights and they're all pushing out new leaves all the time. The monstera uses 2 bulbs as its become quite large. Sansi also makes this bulb in a couple lower watts if this one is too intense but you'll have to move your plants closer to the bulbs.

  • GE - No personal experience with this one but the specs are really similar to the Sansi above. Btw/fyi, PPF/PPFD is a more accurate measurement of how much light is available for photosynthesis.

  • iledlight - Again no personal experience but this looks like a super bright light, brighter than the Sansi or GE. I might consider buying this one to try on my monstera... 🤔

    Hope this helps and good luck! 🌱☘🍀
u/patl1 · 2 pointsr/lawncare

Well I have bad news for you. You do indeed have St. Augustine, but that's not the bad news. The bad news is that St. Augustine does not tolerate traffic will well, so your dog is probably going to rip your lawn to shreds and wear it down to nubbins. To compound the bad news, St. Augustine seed is virtually nonexistent. I've only ever heard of it being planted by sod or plugs, and a quick Google search didn't readily return good results for St. Augustine seed. If you want to keep this grass type, expect to spend a fair amount of money in replacement sod.

If you want to keep it though, here's what you can do in terms of basic care.

  • Apply milorganite 5 times a year: early spring, late spring/early summer, mid-summer, late summer/early fall, and mid fall. If you want to save money you can cut that down to three times a year, in spring, mid summer, and fall. This weekend would count as the late spring/early summer application.
  • Get a soil test done. Not sure where in Texas you are, but Texas A&M can do it, or you can go with any of the various commercial labs. This will give you an idea of what's going on in your soil so that you can fix any nutirent deficiencies. There's also the cheapo soil test, but that probably won't give you the detail you need, nor will it have recommendations on remediation like the other labs will.
  • Put down roughly 1/2 pound of nitrogen in fertilizer every month. This video can show you how to work the numbers on the fertilizer bags to work out how much that is.
  • The guy that made the video in the last bullet point, The Lawn Care Nut, just moved to Florida and is currently redoing his yard with St. Augustine, so his videos will be pretty applicable to you. I strongly recommend you watch through them.
  • Mow at a height of about 3 inches. St. Augustine seems to do well there.
  • Water as needed. Some of the St. Augustine specialist people will tell you to only water when the grass starts to show some signs of stress, and then water heavily. That might be once or twice a week. Also, check your watering laws. Some places have restrictions on when you can water and for how long.

    That's all I really got. I'm not too knowledgeable on St. Augustine, so I can't really help you any more than that. But I did find this publication by A&M that you might find useful. If you have any more questions, ask away. We'll be here.

    Edit: some typos.
u/adoreyou · 1 pointr/succulents

I asked a similar question the other day (sorry), but I don't feel like I have a good grasp on which light I should get... I've looked through the overwinter thread and tried to do even more research but I'm still feeling unsure.

Plan to get succulents for indoor. They won't get much light from the window that is nearby. Don't know what kind of succulents I'll be getting yet specifically, but hoping for pink. Out of these three LEDs, which would be best? They seem a bit similar to me but since I'm new and feeling overwhelmed with lighting, I would like some extra opinions.

Option 1 - 35w

Option 2 - 25w

Option 3 - 36w

Thank you!

u/UsogosU · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Thanks! I thought the same thing when i saw those leaves develop!
The younger ones "wriggle" so much as they're growing in, it's awesome to look at.

I'm using 2 of these lights they were cheap but had pretty great reviews. so far so good.

Standard Fox Farm Nutes with Cal mag too.

Soil is just organic stuff from amazon

I went pretty cheap on the supplies, but so far so good.

edit: just adding quantity of lights.

u/legalpothead · 3 pointsr/trees

Well, the folks over at /r/SpaceBuckets are working with the idea of a small 1 plant grow that can be put together using hardware store parts for $100. That idea has been modified a bit, but it's essentially the same.

I've been able to grow a plant successfully in a spacebucket. The yield is about 30-40 grams cured bud plus a few grams of bubble hash. I can grow 3 crops per year in such a setup.

I switched up to a small 2 plant grow tent and I use one Marshydro 300 lamp for the tent. Now I can get a yield of 50-60 grams cured bud per plant, growing 2 plants at a time. And again, I can grow 3 crops per year.

Once your plant starts to flower, it will become very fragrant, and it's a very nice smell, but unless you are located out in the countryside, a little cabin in the woods, then you will want to have an odor filter of some type.

The good news is cannabis is an easy plant to grow. And when you're growing it, you can smoke the clippings. After about 3 weeks, you'll have clippings every week.

Also see r/microgrowery

u/rleech77 · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Hey dude - I'm in the middle of flower on my first grow and think I can help out a bit here.

Not sure if you're already on this site but growweedeasy.com is an incredible free resource

You could easily do one plant in a tent like this or go bigger and do a 48" x 24"

As for LED's in that range, most people seem to like either the mars hydro or viparspectra (I'm currently using an mh/HPS light)

Enjoy!

u/johnnychronicseed · 7 pointsr/microgrowery

Looks like a pretty good start there.

Pots: If just doing one plant I used something like this that filled my case perfectly and just wrapped it in aluminum tape

Soil: Fox Farms Ocean Forest is recommended alot around here and you can buy small bags

Nutrients: There is a plethora of nutrients you can use from GO Box to Botanicare to General Hydroponics and many many many many more. With almost as many methods.

Edit: Also case wise that mid tower is going to be too small, you will definately want to go for a full tower. Something like this

EditEdit: Here is something to power your fans with no DIY

Or Splice this onto you fans

u/chip_butterfield · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Well given the situation with my grow lights thanks to a huge debacle with Amazon I'll probably get a tent and use the DIY closet for seedlings. I ordered one of those 300W Roleardro lights under a buy one get one free sale and recieved only one instead of two. Amazon credited my account the cost of the light so I can order the second one and when I ordered it the promotion worked (which ends today). So when all is said and done I will have 3 300W Roleadro lights (900W)! For the price of $75 bucks. Get's no better than that. Amazon even told me when I purchase it how to make sure the buy one get one promo worked so Amazon came through on this one. It also means I will need a bigger space! lol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PH1MQV8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/gurilagarden · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

The more you spend, the better the light. The better the light, the better the plant. The better the plant, the more you yield. The more you yield, the more cost effective the operation is.

Cheapest option. Buy two:

https://www.amazon.com/ACKE-Germination-Seedling-Vegetative-Flowering/dp/B07GGX3R9T

Slightly better:

https://www.amazon.com/Lenofocus-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Vegetable-Flowering/dp/B07TV9GWPB

Best option within your price range:

https://www.amazon.com/Horticulture-Lighting-Group-High-Efficiency-Upgraded/dp/B076QDKVDZ

u/juanitospeppers · 2 pointsr/HotPeppers

how many plants? full mature plants or babies for transplanting? Budget?

HLG quantum boards great. https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Board-Grow-Bloom-4000K/dp/B076QDKVDZ is good for like 1 full size plant or a few smaller ones, or a few trays of seedlings.

But if you want to get a big boy you can get a 1000W Double ended HPS. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Ultrahigh-Reflectivity-3-Mode-Adjust-Reflector/dp/B07MYQFMHW that will light up your whole shed and heat it lol. good for like 4+ big plants or lots of smaller ones or lots of trays of seedlings.

u/rigging_delight · 3 pointsr/BDSMcommunity

Did you watch the discussion video?

The wax in the measuring cup was barely liquid, it was quite manageable. I do agree that it would be nicer to have a melt pot and ladle the wax out from there. I've been eyeing this and this.

Yeah, wax does make a mess. I usually have a set of sheets set aside for wax play. I have been impressed with the beeswax as it's more solid when it dries and It was easy to clean up.

Soy wax is the absolute easiest as it washes out of most things.

u/VLXS · 2 pointsr/aquaponics

I am talking about something like this (random link, not an endorsement) that can be used in a DIY setup. Check /u/LEDWizard 's threads to learn more about DIY leds.

Other than that, even just stringing together enough LED spotlights/directional bulbs would do the trick, just not as good as a COB led array (the ones I linked at the beginning).

Or you could go for a couple (or 3) of these ready made panels. Again, this is an example and not an endorsement.

Either way I'm sure it'll be great, because your setup looks pretty sweet as it is and you generally can't go wrong with LEDs. They last a long time and produce the most PAR (photosyntheticaly active radiation) per Watt consumed that any other artificial lighting source.

u/DJsupaman · 11 pointsr/CanadianMOMs

> i basically just need a light and thats it? if i want to grow autoflower only

oh boi... alright here we go.

youll need duct fans for both ventilation and heat dissipation, especially if you go with HPS/MH lights 600/1000watts will require reflectors with ducting so you can connect to it. This will need to exhaust out of your tent. Then you will need a intake fan coming preferably from outside. Youll most likely also need a Carbon filter attached in series to your exhaust fan. Your light will have a ballast as well, which creates a good amount of heat so plan for that to be located outside your tent. Youll also need smaller fans in the corners so you can keep a good air circulation going (hurricane fans are great). Also consider using T5 lights when starting your seeds off as your higher wattage lights are not good for seedlings. Also get a few supplies like gorilla tape and duct clamps and anything else you might need to secure everything together.

When it comes to growing, even if you are only doing autos youll need smart pots, fertilizer, promix HP, perlite plus both vegging and flowering nutrients. Have access to PH up and down solution, and also get a Ph Pen + PPM meter (TDS).

Ive only linked amazon, there are probably other local options for you.

u/ImThatMOTM · 4 pointsr/microgrowery

If you want to be as cheap as possible, you can get a duct fan - but they suck and are loud and they break.

cheap option:

u/snmnky9490 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Yeah your tent is the right size for flowering 4 medium-large plants or 9 smaller ones (like if you took clones of a photoperiod strain). Anyway, 3 autos have a good chance to not even fill up the whole space, which could be good for your first run not having to invest as much in lights all at once.

"Quantum board" specifically is a name brand by the company HLG that I mentioned in the previous post. They're really good and use the highest efficiency LM301B Samsung diodes but require a bit of assembly unless you want to pay a whole bunch extra. No soldering or anything though, just some screws and wire connectors This 260W kit for $350 would cover most of your tent at a full flowering brightness and spectrum. It would probably require that plus a second smaller light to completely cover the 3x3. Which could work out great if you started off with a small cheaper light during veg for the first few weeks and then add the bigger light later on.

My suggestion if you wanted to do that would either be to start with the small HLG boards you can get preassembled on amazon (two of the 65w $100 HLG65 or one of the 100W $150 HLG100) or one 150W $140 MarsHydro SP-150.
I would not suggest any of the other MarsHydro lights besides the SP-150 or SP-250. Those are their only ones with a proper heat sink and high efficiency diodes. They are not quite as efficient as the quantum boards but are fairly close and are much cheaper than any other preassembled light in this efficiency range with a decent build quality.


Another option with the same type of Samsung diodes as the HLG in another form factor are the chilled logic pucks I mentioned like this 400W 4 puck system for $600 which would absolutely completely cover the entire tent right off the bat and could even be dimmed down while plants are younger.

u/beefiftyone · 1 pointr/Autoflowers

Thanks for the insightful replies everyone! I've been looking at some of those COB lights also on amazon (one in particular - https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Spectrum-Light-Innovated-Generation/dp/B01I4NY8KW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485799103&sr=8-3&keywords=roleadro )

It seems the little boost of extra wattage from this Roleadro would make it better than the mars 300w to ensure adequate coverage for just 1 auto at any given time I hope?

Thanks again for the replies everyone!

u/jgimbuta · 1 pointr/Bonsai

Hi guys. My wife got me a Bonsai Azalea for Valentine’s Day for my new office because she knows I was always intrigued by them. I read they can be cared for indoors. Thing is, I don’t have a window, only thing is the drop ceiling with the fluorescent lights. I ordered a little full spectrum LED light with a clamp but I’m reading that they need diffused light.

​

Will this light be fine?

​

[LED light](https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07C68N7PC/ref=psdcmw_14252941_t1_B07LBQYDCW)

​

Not sure I even trust it lol I can always return it, that’s why I like Amazon. They are full of knockoffs, though. For all I know it’s just a standard LED.

​

Will this be bad for the Azalea? Is it fine? If so, should I point it directly at it? Sorry I’ve never had any kind of plant.

​

I don’t even understand and how it’s going to know it’s “growing season” if I come in, have a light on for 6-8 hours, turn it off and go home year round. This is all knew to me.

​

If anyone could explain what I should do in terms of light/diffused light I would appreciate it. Thank you!

u/squidboots · 2 pointsr/mycology

You can get a heat mat like this one - they're often sold for germination trays but many plants love them. Strongly recommend picking up a thermostat to go with it so you can better control the temp.

u/ihc_hotshot · 1 pointr/gardening

Yeah I hope this does not break any rules though.
It says 300w but it actually only draws 150w 300 is like the max or equivalent or something.
https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Upgrade-Developed-Spectrum-Generation/dp/B01HI3AFYM/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1485299846&sr=8-26&keywords=LED+light+full+spectrum

It's pretty great! Slightly loud fans but can't complain for the price.

u/PutterNut · 2 pointsr/succulents

There is no definitive answer on this because there are too many variables. Examples: The light requirements of each individual plant. The PAR given by the light. How far the plant is from the light. How long the light is on daily. How much natural light the plants receive. Yes grow lights CAN work, but you have to find the perfect balance. The great thing about indoor lights is you can control the environment! Too much light, you can reduce the time or move the plants further away from the light source. Too little light, move them closer or give more hours of light. It's not something you'll probably get 100% right on the first try.

They do make white LED grow light panels, but they are harder to find than the red/blue. You may want to try something like - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HI3AFYM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_35?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2L94QV6P0R9ON -but it may be overkill, I don't know how many plants you have or how large of an area you need to light.

u/parsing_trees · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

For a tent that small, I think you'd be better off with an HLG 100 v2 3000k (the same light is available at Amazon). The Viparspectra light is cheaper, but that's about the only thing it has going for it.

I don't have that light, but I use the next size up (an HLG QB288v2 3000k) in my 2x2x5.5' tent, and I've been very happy with it. I had a Viparspcetra 450W, but it stopped working after 10 days so I returned it. The QBs seem significantly better made, have a better light spectrum (and the purple light felt very harsh to my eyes), and only use like 2/3 as much electricity for similar amounts of usable light.

Also, the white light spectrum from the QB lights means that you can use a cheap lux meter to get your light position dialed in. That won't work with the purple light spectrum, you'd need a much more expensive PAR meter.

If you're growing in a tiny space, r/SpaceBuckets also has good info about light, airflow, and so on.

u/_Zhitan · 1 pointr/succulents

Are those all stretched as well? And I have one of those LED clamp strips, but I use them on props and baby succulents. My mature plants stretched when I used those. I personally don't find them strong enough and would stay away from that specific lamp.

The red blue LEDS are still worth looking into, but something more like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071XHQQWF/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B01B4GQ6MO

Or T5 High Output (HO) 6500k bulbs. Comes in 2ft and 4ft lengths. It provides more than adequate lumens (2000lm +). Amazon, Home Depot, and Lowe's are good for those.

LED saves you money in the long run. But initially the cheapest option would be CFL bulbs (6500k 60watt) in aluminum lamps!

u/cityworka · 1 pointr/Winnipeg

Hey, you seem very knowledgeable. Would this be a good test kit?

https://www.amazon.ca/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524508048&sr=8-2&keywords=lawn+test+kit

Also, I moved into a new house last fall. The grass in the front yard has some bald spots that I would like to try and remedy. When is the best time to hit this with fresh soil and grass seed? When is the best time to fertilize? Also, how to you pick which grass seed to buy? Thanks for any help with this.

u/SpaceDurr · 3 pointsr/trees

>Nice little setup and great plant !

Thanks :) Here is the full setup.

>Do you need your fan to be always turned on when the leds are on ? Do they produce a lot of heat

Yeah, I keep the fan running 24/7. This cools the lights when they're on but it also keeps good air circulation around the plant which helps prevent mold.

>? I've always wanted to try it but never really jumped into it . Last time i checked leds pannels were expensive :(

You can build a Spacebucket for a couple hundred dollars. The LED UFO I'm using was only $120 which honestly wasnt that much considering how well it works.

Ninja Edit:
You also don't have to invest a ton into trying to grow. There have been people that just put a bag seed in a solo cup full of soil and watered that shit. If you're nervous about growing, you can try growing tomatoes which respond in very similar ways so learning how to grow them will help you with any future weed grows.

u/littleprettypebbles · 2 pointsr/succulents

Ok, so the top picture is from March 10th, the bottom one is a month later, so they've all been under the grow lights I purchased for about a month. Most everyone seems to be happy (my sedeveria letizia is struggling, but that's a different issue, I've not gotten her watering down yet) and the two girls in the middle there have each sprouted two buds and flowered! Wondering if anyone can ID the flowering cutey in the back (hoping now that she's flowered it might be easier).

​

The lights I purchased are these: https://www.amazon.com/Relassy-Spectrum-Gooseneck-Replaceable-Professional/dp/B07C68N7PC/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=grow+light+relassy+45w+sunlike&qid=1555078123&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull if anyone is interested, I know people have asked for grow light recommendations and these have done pretty well for me so far. The lights are about 6-8" away from the plants.

u/anonymous_coward69 · 1 pointr/indoorgardening

>Bonchi (Bonsai Chiles)

Nice. My friend wants something a bit more traditional, but I love chilis. Will have to look into that for myself. Can you actually grow them like bonsai, which is to say can you arrange, clip, and mold them like bonsai? May have found a new hobby. Also, any thoughts on this type of lamp?

u/bloks1995 · 1 pointr/SavageGarden

That's between home and school, but I won't be making that trip until mid August. If you are interested then, let me know, and maybe we can meet up somewhere and I can dump some of my extra plants on you ;) And like I said, setting pots straight into a fish tank works really well for tropical plants, and some temperate plants if you have the proper lights. As for the lights, I personally own this fixture, and I keep all manner of plants under it. They all grow very well and color up nicely.

u/Crowbar1127 · 3 pointsr/OKmarijuana

I just asked a similiar question not long ago and looked at many premade kits, I feel like I got a way better setup doing it somewhat separately, I looked at stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/BloomGrow-Reflective-Ducting-Hydroponic-24X24X48/dp/B0757YRKW7/ref=sr_1_49?m=AOALYYYVUG1U0&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&qid=1561412214&s=merchant-items&sr=1-49&th=1 , and eventually purchased this stuff, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ETLC7M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 160$ actual wattage is like 250-275 ish

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3LG55T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 120$

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJ4VWF7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 70$

It is like 75-100 more expensive but I felt like it was a huge jump in quality for the money invested. Thanks to the people who advised me to buy not as a complete kit.

u/momotheducky · 2 pointsr/succulents

I totally understand, I haven’t had to do the big chop myself yet, but it’s something that will probably have to happen in the future lol.

I’ve been using this one that’s pretty good. It brought out stress coloring in my succulents so it’s strong enough if you put it really close https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C68N7PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zOj0DbHYF72TS If you have a lot of succulents/plants I wouldn’t recommend this style of grow lamp because it doesn’t cover too much area.

If you wanna go the most inexpensive route you can get a grow light bulb and put it in one of your lamps.

There’s a lot of posts on this subreddit asking for grow light recommendations. You can browse through those to get some suggestions! :)

u/Neil_the_eel · 2 pointsr/cactus

I have this in two foot and 4 foot. Highly recommended. All my plants are nice and vibrant and not etiolated at all.

And I also have this for quarantine plants and at work for my desk plant. Works great and is dimmable, and each light can be turned on individually or together. Also has a few built in timers.

Also, as an aside, when you do get your cactus a light make sure you acclimate it. Just like us, cactuses sunburn.

u/Skingle · 0 pointsr/microgrowery

watts don't apply to LEDs in the same way as cfls or HPS/MH. and these are reflector series which are different than regular LEDS. companies have come out with newer reflector series recently.
for example with mars hydro
they have regular

and new reflector series

wattage is lower but they are more powerful or the same power while using less energy, check the ratings on both. they direct the light more intensely with the reflectors.

i have 2 viparspectra 450 watt reflector series and they work great for my 4x2x5 tent.
and 2 smaller lights are generally easier than one big one. more evenly distribute the light to your girls

u/MA_New_Microgrow · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

DETAILS ON SET UP

Light: Roleadro 300W LED light

Fan and filter: ipower 4" inline fan with carbon filter (my roomates are worried about the smell

Tent: Millard 30" x 18" x 36" tent

Odds and ends: A digital timer to schedule lights

A fan speed controller

3-gallon smart pots

A humidity and temp sensor

Plus a small clip on fan.

GROW DETAILS

I have three different strains, Northern Lights, Pre-99 big bud, and pure power plant, and then an unknown seed(which I planted about two weeks ago as the previous unknown seed turned out male, see previous post [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/microgrowery/comments/5qo1yo/early_sign_of_balls_details_in_comments/0. One in each 3-gallon smart pot. For the first two weeks of growing I had an 18/6 light schedule, and then switched to 12/12. (I'm essentially doing 12/12 from as early as the plant could respond to the change in light schedule). Over the past 15 days I watered twice with tiger bloom nutes.

I definitely made the mistake of not listening to your advice when I originally posted and am trying to grow 3 plants in a 1.5X2.5X3 foot tent...It is getting crowded, I should've listened and stuck with one, maybe two plants. Other than that I haven't had any problem that I have noticed other then a few spots of damage on leaves occasionally but no pests or wilting. I'm sure there are things I could've done better though. Thank you for all your help, I can't wait to get to harvest.

u/shuddles08 · 2 pointsr/SavageGarden

Wow, if you really want to make those heliamphora happy inside, you've got quite a project ahead of you. Get these things: an aquarium tank 30 inches long x 12 inches tall x about 12 or 15 inches wide. The first two measurements are the important ones. Get two of these to mount on each side of your tank:

https://www.amazon.com/iPettie-Aquarium-Cooling-Chiller-Adapter/dp/B00M9UV9LI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474724537&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+fans

Go led for best light:

https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector--Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474724631&sr=8-3&keywords=2+ft+led+grow+light

Now get this for humidity:

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Monsoon-Rainfall-System/dp/B004G62868/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474724740&sr=8-1&keywords=monsoon+mister

wrap the tank in a reflective material, put your helis in, and they'll do fine.

u/Big_Ds_Snake_Oil · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I would also get a 600 w led. This one on amazon is a really good deal. If you’re really hurting for cash get the 300 w version for about $80 I think.

Also, you could start in cheep 5 gallon buckets. Get good garden planter soil from Lowe’s or Home Depot. Put drain holes in buckets. You can also just use miracle grow as nutrient.

Read i love growing marijuana website too. You could get closer to 600 grams as a rookie with that light, and good soil.


VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 600W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETLC7M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/LANBoy91386 · 6 pointsr/gardening

Well, you aren't wrong, just a little skewed on the numbers. Peppers, like pretty much any plant, requires 12 to 18 hours of light a day when indoors. for a single pepper plant you may be able to get away with a shop light. This may be in bad taste, but this is a great option. For tomatoes I'd suggest something similar but in 4ft. Professional indoor HID (High Intensity Discharge) setups will run at the multi thousand watt levels, but most people looking for fresh veggies year around can do with far less. It also makes everything like grow/rest hours, heat, humidity, soil nutrient levels, you name it, way easier to manage.

u/FearLeadsToAnger · 3 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

That 600W led isn't a horrible option but very likely to be bottom tier chinese stuff considering not a brand in sight. Best possible option for your $100 would be something like 2 x Cree 3070 COBs $~25 each and a meanwell driver ($50-60~) but this is a bit of electronics and soldering which isn't everyone's cup of tea. May take some research but you'll get vastly better results for your money than anything else at this price, period.

Otherwise there's a brand on Amazon called 'Roleadro' which exist somewhere between Shit-tier chinese and decent quality stuff. The newer ones even use COBs


u/So-Cal-Sinner · 2 pointsr/cannabiscultivation

I currently am running 3 different LED's.

Plilzin 600w from Amazon.- these were my first LEDs and although they are ok, I would not recommend them based on the availability of better ones at a similar price point.

Main lights are Besva 1500w. Love the light, very powerful, low heat.

BESTVA 1500W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum Grow Lamp with IR&UV for Greenhouse Hydroponic Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M03IA3J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IceACb0HRKJM5

My littles start and grow under this lamp. Amazing little unit. Deep penetration which brings great growth.

Roleadro LED Grow Light, Galaxyhydro Series 1000W Indoor Plant Grow Lights Full Spectrum with UV&IR for Veg and Flower-1000w https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PH1MQV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5deACbHRVBSV2

u/EcstasyAeternus · 1 pointr/gardening

Thank you :) Yup, I got the seeds from Baker Creek and these ones in particular are Cherokee Purple

They germinated super fast @ 100% success. Started them in the expanding peat pots that you find in the starter kits with a heating mat under the tray. Now they're moved into a 5x5 Grow Tent with a small space heater, fan to circulate air, and two LED lights one two set on timers. They grew so fast once I repotted them and put them in the grow tent that I didnt look for a day and the plant on the left had burned itself on the light (you can see the couple of crispy leaves on the top left lol).

u/WhiplashOne · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Get a better light, dude. It's the one thing that directly correlates to yield. You got all this awesome stuff (tent, filter, plants with good genetics) but have a light meant for a closet bagseed grow. Go with something like this and you've got a much better shot at being successful.

u/oh2ridemore · 2 pointsr/gardening

I have been really happy with these VIPARSPECTRA lights from amazon.com. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ETLC7M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
From the wattage observed via zwave switch and led count, thinking they use 3 watt leds. I liked them enough to buy 2 of the '300 watt' versions and one 600 watt. Combined with my old metal halide fixture, plants are super happy.
Coffee, lime, lemon, tangerine, pineapples, various other tropical plants.
If they last 10 years will be happy. Tired of using so much wattage on ballasts for the mh and hps fixtures.

u/Spiralen · 3 pointsr/IndoorGarden

If you have these hanging in the open they will annoy you with it's blue/purple colors and are not good for your eyes. Try getting full spectrum LED.

Look up Quantum boards from horticulture lighting group or Atreum Boards, Amazon may not have them. They are generally more efficient and give off nice white light which will not annoy you and even brighten up the room!

A Quantum Board 65 Kit (65Watt real draw) is about 100$ and available on Amazon and should be enough for a first light but probably underpowered for 4x4 but for half shaded plants this will work fine. Most use them to grow weed which likes a lot of light. Veg/bloom switches are mostly for weed, yes.

But sure, the QB are a bit bare and not that pretty yet really lightweight aesthetically...so who knows.

​

The Maxsisun 300W has about 130W real draw (the 300W is misleading since it's just an euivalent to HPS lights. So it draws 130W which is equivalent to a 300W HPS light) but is probably less efficient than the QB.

​

I'm growing Chilis with a DIY Fixture with full white LED comparable to the QB ones. I started out with a Viparspectra 300W (basically same as the Maxisun) so i know em both. Gonna take the Viparspectra apart soon to exchange the LED to full white ones. Will never touch the blue/purple lights again :D

u/Luna_Parvulus · 2 pointsr/Sneks

Hi! A little late to the party, but something else to keep in mind that I did not see mentioned is that you will definitely want a thermostat (not just a thermometer) to regulate the heat from your heat pad and/or Ceramic Heating Element. You will probably want one for each heat element, although CHEs can be controlled with dimmer switches as well I believe.

A thermostat lets you regulate the output of a heat pad or CHE. This is important because without regulation, it is possible for either of them to overheat beyond typical heating abilities. This could lead to extreme temperatures in your tank that could burn the snake or even cause neurological damage if it's hot enough.

I'm taking my list of suggestions from other users who post around snek subreddits as I am not yet a snek owner myself :(.

Cheap options are Jump Start thermostats, although they do not have safety features that will shut down the heating element if the thermostat fails. Another option that's in the same price range but a bit safer is an Inkbird thermostat. If you wanna splurge and get a very high quality thermostat for your little buddy, you can go for a Spyder Robotics thermostat.

Also, not necessarily required but useful and fun: an Infrared Thermometer

u/thearchtect16 · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Hello all,

Apologies for having to use a throwaway - a lot of my family and friends know my main account and the #1 rule I'm following as a first time grower is not to tell anyone (Medical legal in state, still would like to keep it under wraps as arrests have only increased since medical was enacted).

I received clones 1 week ago today which were transplanted from solo cups and they really haven't done much and this is what I have. I was told they spent a little too long in the solo cups but should be okay.

2 clones (Blue Headband).
48x24x60 Tent.
2 300w (145 actual) Galaxyhydro LED.
Organic soil (nothing mixed in).
10 gallon fabric pots.
Various other things like water ppm meter, water ph meter, soil ph and temp meter etc.

Currently using tap water at 96ppm sat out for at least 24 hours prior to watering.

Soil PH remains at 6.5-7.0 at all times, soil temp remains at 68F

Air temp I'm having a hard time regulating as my 24hr range is usually 64F (lower than room temp somehow) to 84F. I used to just have my carbon filter fanning the inside of the tent but I just today set up ducting to exhaust it out of the tent - and im going to put an intake fan on the bottom of the tent. Humidity range is also something like 22% - 78 % depending on if the tent is open or not.

From the great help I've found on this subreddit I believe I'm dealing with light burn, as I see in some reviews of my lights that they need to be hung farther away than normal. SO yesterday I moved them from 18in to top of plant to 24in to top of plant. I just wanted to ask if I'm on the right track before I do any further damage.

Also I've seen a lot about "just leave them alone" but as most first growers can attest to - that's difficult as I want to check on them every 5 minutes.

Thank you in advance. Any and all criticism welcome as it is all a learning process. This subreddit has an awesome community that I've been a long time lurker of while doing my research before my first grow. You guys rock!

u/smallhousecoffee · 1 pointr/IndoorGarden

I would stay way from any of the cheap Chinese LED lights like Roleadro, Mars Hydro and similar. The light that I would recommend for your setup would be the HLG-65 from Horticulture Lighting Group. This light uses top bin Samsung S6 diodes which are extremely efficient. They put out a ton of light and use very little power. This light also generates very little heat and doesn't require a heatsink or fans. It produces white light at 4000k which is a little warmer then sun light. I recently bought two of these boards and they have fantastic for vegetative growth.

u/Ser_NSFW · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets

Hey man, happy birthday!

For lighting, check out this MarsHydro 300W LED that's been on sale for the last few months for $89.99 (might be Prime-only?). It is absolutely worth it.

I successfully grew three autoflowers in a 5 gallon bucket and they each had their own peat moss starter pot (you can plant the starter pot directly into soil), but they didn't get too big. I'd start with one autoflower at a time till you're comfortable with the grow process and feel like you want to move up.

I you want to just grow 2-3 plants from the start, consider using two 18-gallon plastic totes stacked rim to rim (like a GNK Power Droid from Star Wars) - you'll have plenty of space, and it's not much different from a 5-gallon build!

u/Parcequehomard · 3 pointsr/orchids

What will you be putting in there? If it's mostly high light species you probably don't want to cheap out too much on light, but if you have a mix or mostly intermediate to low light you can probably get away with cheaper and fewer fixtures.

I have a few of these led panels, which are strong enough to tan a cattleya at a close range and could also cover a very wide area at a further distance for lower light plants. My oldest ones have been running daily for a little over a year and no issues so far, so hopefully they'll last a good long time. You could probably use one of these on each side at an angle so that the front of each shelf gets some direct light and arrange your plants closest by ordered of light requirements.

I also have some areas where I supplement light with a setup of cords---socket splitters---and smaller sized grow bulbs that I can swivel to target a wider or narrower area.

One more tip that I haven't tried with orchids but might be worth a shot in a setup like this, you could line the walls with foil or something reflective to help bounce light to the back sides of the shelves and have less spillover "going to waste". I've only ever done this with seedlings for my garden but it seemed to help.

u/Jellybit · 2 pointsr/EpaxX1Owners
  1. My basement is around the same temperature or slightly colder. I bought two things, a seed warmer, and a space blanket. I taped the seed warmer to the top-back of the printer (above the electronics), wrapped the space blanket around it, and it keeps it toasty in the 90's Fahrenheit. If you want a specific temperature, they sell the seed warmer with a thermostat for almost three times the price. I also tried building a heater via thingiverse, but the seed warmer worked so well that I will just keep the parts around as a backup.
  2. A lot of people reuse some IPA for the first wash, but have a clean one for the final rinse. I think you'll find a lot of superstition around how to clean a print, and you'll likely develop your own. Side note: Don't pour IPA directly into your ultrasonic cleaner, as it's a fire hazard.
  3. A lot of people just pour it into a container and let it sit outside to cure and evaporate at the same time.
  4. Some have left it in there for a couple of weeks and it's still fine. The key thing is to pre-warm it (if it's cold), and stir it a bit with a silicon spatula or something else that won't scratch the FEP. Just like you need to shake/swirl your resin before pouring it, you need to re-stir it if it's been sitting in your vat.
u/Tsii · 1 pointr/gardening

You using this light?

Looks like you have it 12-16" above plants and a what... 3'x3' area for each one? I just built mine, but was considering getting more or getting a setup for when the big plants get bigger than the shelving would allow.

Looks like you have ~13 tomatos under one and ~17 tomatos/peppers under the other... how big will they get until you plant outside? Will those 2 lights be enough? (Just trying to figure out my own logistics)

I like the room though btw :)

u/Billkr · 1 pointr/hydro

The miracle grow is fine for spraying your flowers in your yard but other than that I would steer clear of Miracle Grow for hydroponics.

Your plants will require different levels of nutrients (N-P-K) through their life cycle as well as a number of micro-nutrients. I will have to agree that you want to spend about $33 and get the 3 part Flora series from General Hydroponics. Amazon Link Here

Feeding schedule from General Hydroponics Recirculating is Here

Drain to waste is Here

u/DesertofBoredom · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

def at least 4 for a tent that large. honestly you'd be better getting a few more powerful versions. 4 of the [100 watt version] (https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Board-Grow-Bloom-3000K/dp/B07C59J8L2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542073882&sr=8-1&keywords=hlg+100) would beast out a 4x4 tent through flower. This 285 watt version could handle a 4x4 at veg but you may want to add some supplemental light at flower. And this 480 watt monster would be ideal, but it's getting pricey at that point.

if you are wiling to do a little wiring and buy you're own driver, you could buy just the boards for cheaper from the company on their website: https://horticulturelightinggroup.com. Then you could wire all the boards to a single driver and have a good set up for less cost.

u/Strel0k · 1 pointr/gardening

/r/hydro would probably be the best sub to ask this question

To answer your question: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jx0uNp2dzAU

But you should also consider buying a premixed nutrient concentrates like this I personally use something like this and the whole set looks like it will last me another year or two.

> Also, how do you know, how much a plant needs from these nutrients? Can you calculate it roughly?

Its mostly trial and error from my experience unless you are growing a very well known crop like tomatoes, peppers or "special herbs". A slightly more accurate method is to get a PPM tester (they are like $10-20 USD here) and refer to this chart

u/swimmingpoolofpoop · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Yeah, pretty much all my research makes it seem like CFL is a pretty worthless way to go for this endevour. I have been looking ath this or one of the other Mars hydro 300's that everybody seems to like so much.

I just want to be able to run it all the fuckin time, and be planting auto's like every 30 days.

I just got my power bill, and it wasnt bad at all, so maybe adding another 250w or so HID wont be too bad. Its only about a 3rd of what I'm running already.

u/pabloe168 · 1 pointr/HotPeppers

I see your point. I like the option but here is a question..

Say I buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Horticulture-Lighting-Group-USA-Quantum/dp/B07C57J7XX

Like you are saying its $150. and its supposed to be as effective as a 300w cfl.

It consumes the same amount of energy as say this: https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Viparspectra&qid=1555016528&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-3

Which is also supposed to be as effective as a 300w lamp...

Whats the reason behind spending double if I am not gaining anything on performance or efficiency? The one advantage I see is no pink light.

u/Kimalyn · 1 pointr/mead

Can we be best friends??!

I have an idea for experimenting with Mead lees for fertilizer. Think straight up 4th grade science fair type stuff. Bean plants, same soil, same light, measuring how tall they get over a period of time. I think I'll start with a pure mead and experiment with various dilution amounts. Then I might go for a second round (once I've decided on optimum dilution from the first round) with various types of flavored mead. What I'd really like would be to test the contents of the lees for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium levels so I could compare it to fertilizers. So I'll probably buy something like this!

We could go into alcohol experimentation business together!

u/SuperAngryGuy · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

Most people just add nutes to water, adjust the pH of the nutrient solution as needed to get a runoff of around pH 6.5 or so, and then add the solution to the plants as per the two knuckle rule (stick your finger in the soil and if it feels dry at the second knuckle then do a complete watering).

You can store concentrated nutrients however you want just don't store concentrated multi-part nutrients together in the same container. This will cause some of the nutrients to bind up.

Using a syringe, tiny measuring cup, "soap" dispenser, etc does not matter as long as the nutrient solution is the appropriate strength and pHed before adding it to the soil. With the above 3 part GH Flora fertilizers I like a fertilizer strength of 1200ppm/1.9 EC (I use a TDS meter) and a pH of 6.7-6.8 to get a runoff of around 6.5.

Does the above make sense?

edit- slight correction and TDS stands for "total dissolved solids". I use an older version of this meter that has a 650ppm=1 EC correction factor, which can be different depending on the meter, and this to test pH.

u/A_Decent_Man · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Hey Guys.

As my first grow ever, I had 3 seedlings germinate after planting on April 5th into my AeroGarden 6. Here is a progress picture from about 3 days ago.

As you can see, my guy on the left is really taking off, but my other two have kind of stalled. Should I be worried about that?

I hear I can wait about another week until transplant. Would then be a good time to move them into 5 gallon pots? I am also laxing behind on my equipment. I’ve been scoping this tent and this light off of Amazon. Would you guys recommend? Any other recommendations for ventilation? Working a bit on a budget.

Also, I checked all 3 of them, and they have mainly just one long root as seen here. Should that be concerning?

Appreciate any info, and sorry for the noob questions. Happy growing!

u/neat_one · 1 pointr/cactus

This is the best one I’ve had! It was recommended by a friend and provides great light! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IVQ96KY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

u/NanzoMcNab · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Nice! You won’t be disappointed. Good luck!!!

Just an FYI - it looks like the 135 is a lit you have to assemble and the actual light board is the same wattage as the 100. Either way you’ll be happy.

The HLG 100 was fully assembled:

https://www.amazon.com/Horticulture-Lighting-Group-High-Efficiency-Upgraded/dp/B07C59J8L2

Last bit of advice - if you’re going to get a exhaust fan don’t get the Vivosun. I love their tent but the fan started making horrible noise after 17 days. They were cool about the refund but I went with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JQ4N92?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It’s not a variable speed though but at least it’s an even sound. Like a window AC unit. Maybe a bit louder.

u/unwinagainstable · 5 pointsr/succulents

I'm not OP but I have a similar setup in my apartment. It's not as nice as OPs but it's working well for me.

I have a floating shelf with a 2 ft T5 light hung above it on an electrical timer. It's hard to see in my picture but it's quite bright. I think it looks pretty nice and allows me to keep a small collection on display (I have the shelf right at eye level).

http://i.imgur.com/29lfZ5X.jpg

u/vapor_inhaltor · 1 pointr/microgrowery

More photos - https://imgur.com/a/WQMsnU7

Details:
F17, Day 49 from seedling. https://www.seedsman.com/en/dreamy-widow-feminised-seeds

2x2 tent organic grow (amended FFOF soil, watering with liquid seaweed and molasses, using compost tea every other feeding with compost earthworm castings, and flower and rose mix)

Light is a Roleadro 200w actual COB. Roleadro 800W COB Full Spectrum Grow Light LED Plant Lamp with ON/OFF Switch and Timer Function, 2nd Generation Plant Light for Flowering and Veg https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I4NY8KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_45fACb894SBAE

AC Infinity T6 with Phresh carbon filter

I’m sure I made some newbie mistakes on my first grow. I’m pretty sure I had the light too close earlier on, which I just fixed by raising the light as high as I can in the tent.

I also screwed up by using a watering mix that fermented after I left it for a couple of days. I learned I can’t use leftovers. It started smelling like vinegar and I measured the pH at 4.5!! Yikes! I know...I felt like a bonehead.

I’ve been constantly battling with high temp and humidity. I feel I have a little better handle on that now with temps sticking around 80 with RH hanging in the 50s now that I introduced a dehumidifier. I measured the chassis of the LED with an IR meter, and it’s showing 95! Next grow I’m going with a better light where I can mount the driver outside the tent.

I’m learning a lot this time around, and I’m hoping to have it more dialed in next time.

With all that being said, how’s my girl looking?

The things that are bothering me are the burnt/yellowing leaf tips. I’ve always had a hard time nailing down if this is light burn or nute burn. Also, I’m seeing lower fan leaves starting to go completely yellow and look bad. I know this will happen in flower as the plant starts redirecting all its energy to the flowers, but is this happening too soon? Either way, I’m going to water tomorrow with straight RO water.

I’ve looked at the guides on determining the problem, but honestly, it’s hard for a newbie to tell. It’s kind of like having a innocent pain then looking at WebMd—next thing you know you start having anxiety because you think you’re dying. Same thing with this—I look at these charts and I start thinking my plant is in horrible shape and not going to make it. Lol.

Thanks and happy growing everyone!