Reddit mentions: The best gps system accessories

Here is what I bought & some suggestions. I am working on my checkride now, so I don't have my PPL yet, but for what it is worth:

1. Sporty's Online Ground Course - the practice tests are very helpful and the videos are decent. Watch the vids, then practice test yourself until you pass 2 at 90% or higher. The minimum is only 70%, but if you consistently get 90%, you will pass the written no problem. http://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/learn-to-fly/private-pilot-learn-to-fly-course/learn-to-fly-course-online-private-pilot-test-prep.html
   
   
2. Purchased ASA test prep book (which came with booklet used for test questions). I used this more as a reference but I also did practice exams, etc.
   http://www.asa2fly.com/Test-Prep-2017-Private-Pilot-P3493C22.aspx
   
   
3. Purchased an inexpensive headset (off-brand for $85.00). Your stuff will get beat up a bit in training. I say wait to buy the $1,000 headset until you know that flying is for you and you won't damage your headset in training. Don't want to start a 'flame war' here so I will not recommend one or the other, but if possible I want to get a good ANR headset once I have my PPL.
   
   
4. Purchased the PPL Oral Exam Guide by ASA/Michael D. Hayes. Nicely organized and easy to follow. http://www.asa2fly.com/Oral-Exam-Guide-Private-P3676C480.aspx
   
   
5. Watch videos constantly about flying. There are some great resources out there, both for learning and inspiration: On youtube I like: FlightChops, Cyndy Hollman, MrAviation101, Swayne Martin, steveo1kinevo, MzeroA. There are many, many others.
   
   
6. I bought Saitek yoke, rudder, and throttle controls that I used to fly prepar3d flight sim (basically a Lockheed version of MS Flight). http://www.prepar3d.com/product-overview/
   I have heard that XPlane is better, but that is another subject...I also invested in a sim plane that is nearly identical to the C172 that I use for training. The reason I mention this is that a flight sim is not good for teaching you to fly, but it is good for helping you to remember procedures and working with some NAV instruments (VOR, GPS). I run through emergency procedures in the sim and that seems to help me too.
   
   
7. I invested in Foreflight. Even though I don't use it too often for training, I am referring to it frequently and using it to verify handwritten flight plans, etc. On the simulator, there is software to allow me to use Foreflight with my simulator location - basically spoofs Foreflight into thinking I am actually flying. This was very helpful. I also use the logbook feature (though I enter each flight manually). I love to add pictures and endorsements, etc. to each entry.
   
   
8. I bought a small WAAS GPS and log all my flights, then I debrief them (myself) using cloudahoy (see #9). I should have put this as #1 on my list because having a good, independent GPS has really helped me in my training. There are no ipads to connect, wires, or internet, just a gps that I mounted with double-sided tape on a simple suction mount. I turn it on, start logging, and then attached it to the window. In 1 minute I am logging my flights - and the battery lasts forever.
   GPS:
   https://bad-elf.com/collections/bluetooth-gps/products/be-gps-2200
   
   Mount:
   https://www.amazon.com/ARKON-BT010-Windshield-Transponders-Bluetooth/dp/B000FGI9R0/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1498622046&sr=8-23&keywords=suction+mount
   
   
   
9. I use cloudahoy to review my flights. It is an amazing app/site and a bargain for only $65/year. You can export your GPS logs/tracks to it and it automatically organizes your flight. You can share these with others too. It is very instructional and it acts as a sort of backup of my log (they store gps tracks of all my flights). It also helps me to recall my flight so that when I do my log entries they are accurate.
   
   https://www.cloudahoy.com/
   
   
   
10. It may sound old school, but I bought a nice log book and had my name engraved on it. Cost a bit extra, but it will be something you can use for years, and why not have a classy one. I keep both a written and an electronic logbook - the written I like as it is done by my CFI (unless I solo), and it is a physical representation of my training. I use the Foreflight log book to double-check my numbers and to have a quick idea of how many hours, days left for currency, etc.
    
    http://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/pilot-s-flight-logbook-and-record.html
    
    
    
11. Listen to LiveATC.net - I try to pick smaller airports, non-towered. It will help you with comms.
    
    Hope this helps you and best of luck in your training!
    

CarBridge is a tweak for jailbroken iPhones. It lets you run nearly any app over CarPlay. It also lets you adjust the number of icons on the CarPlay home screen. I just got it up and running tonight so I’m still playing around with it. I wasn’t able to get PS4 Remote Play working but Splashtop works perfectly so I can access my desktop PC from my car stereo, which is awesome. I'm totally going to Photoshop something using Sync 3 haha. YouTube was my primary reason for installing CarBridge but the Xfinity app and VLC also work great. Looking forward to being able to watch live TV and even recordings from my DVR while I’m stuck in traffic.

A few others I tried are weather radar, iMessages that let you actually see the messages, the camera app, and an OBDII app that communicates with my ELM327 Wi-Fi OBDII reader. Now that I know it works I’m going to choose an app that shows gauges (those all cost money) so I can see stuff like oil pressure, boost, voltage, etc. when I’m running the car hard. Oh, and of course, Apollo for Reddit works as it should.

All the apps perform quickly and the image actually looks pretty crisp and detailed in person. These pics aren't doing it justice (had to use my iPad) but I was really impressed by how sharp it was when I used 720 or 1080 resolution in YouTube. I also highly recommend this glass screen protector to improve the look and feel of the screen. It’s like a night and day difference vs the fingerprint magnet plastic factory touchscreen. Much less glare too.

The one downside I noticed is that Sync 3 doesn't support multi-touch but overall I’m really happy with the results. Well worth the $4.99 for CarBridge. Let me know if you can think of any other apps that would be fun to try.

Can’t speak 4 a JK, but this Ram Mount System works awesome in my ‘06 TJ.

RAM Mounts (RAM-B-166-UN10U) Twist Lock Suction Cup Mount with Universal X-Grip Iv Large Phone/Phablet Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI2W24O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sj9gDb5ZV0SH7

They have piles of different “Brackets” and mounting options to sort through in order to find the right fitment for your JK, but I’ve had zero problems with mine. Once summer hits the doors generally stay off until winter, which meant I needed an option that would be both strong and reliable, haven’t had any issues for 2 years..🤞🏼
(Sidebar; look for the optional rubber “tether” to add some security for those “doors off type of days”... mine has never fallen out, but better to be safe than sorry) hope this is at least a good starting point.! Good luck!!🤙🏼🍻

****Do any of this at your own risk or hire a professional to do it for you.***

Here are the parts I ordered to put mine together. I'm posting this bc of PMs.

Mobius or [Cheaper Mobius but longer wait from China] (http://www.banggood.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-HD-Mini-Sports-Camera-Wide-Angle-Edition-p-917817.html) I wanted the Wide Angle Lens for a better shot

Capacitor You don't want the battery sitting in the sun. A capacitor can handle it. So you replace the battery completely with this capacitor

Windshield Mount My mobius came with a mounting bracket that fits on this mount. The mount itself is very small, but the 3M sticker is very strong.

Hardwire Kit When hard wiring this in to the car via fuse box, this knocks the voltage down from 12v to 5v, which is what the camera needs. I used some wire strippers to expose about 5" of the red and black cables. Then stripped about an inch off each cable to expose the actual wire. The red wire goes in to the add-a-circuit mentioned below, then you crimp it closed with pliers (wasn't super easy, I must be weak). You partially unscrew a metal bolt that is attached to the metal car frame as a ground ( I used the one on top of my fuse box).

USB to Mini-USB This connects from the hardwire kit to the camera or 90 degree elbow mentioned next, for a better angle. If you are setting up the auto record when external power is on, which is what you want to do for a dash cam, you need to cut a piece of electrical tape width-wise and cover the two middle pins inside the USB cable. This is because the two middle pins (2 and 3) are data pins. Leaving those exposed makes the camera think its connected to a computer and will only do data transferring. By covering them, it only get power from pins 1 and 4 and doesn't think it's connected to a computer and will actually record.

Right Angle Mini-USB to Mini-USB Adapted This just helped keep the USB cable from sticking out too much (better angle)

Add-a-circuit This is the ATO (bigger fuse), but I ended up using the ATM (Mini) because my car has both and the fuse I wanted to use ended up being a Mini. It'd be best to look through your fuse diagram and find something non-vital (meaning don't tap in to a fuse that controls ABS or airbags, etc) and switchable (meaning it only comes on when the car turns on. You don't want the camera running 24/7), figure out what type of fuse it is, and buy that size. I ended up getting my new add-a-circuit (Littlefuse) from Oreilly auto parts for $6.99 and it came with 3, 4, 7.5, and 10A fuses. Also take note of the amperage (Never use a higher amp fuse than your add-a-circuit supports because the wire gauge may not support it and melt/burn. When adding the circuit, I removed the original fuse from the fuse box, a 10A fuse and put it the first slot(my add-a-circuit supports up to 10A) and for the 2nd slot, I used a 3A fuse because the camera and radar don't draw much. You don't want to use a higher amp fuse than necessary. Also, in my car 2011 JettaSportwagen, the add-a-circuit points down or it doesn't work. Make sure it's plugged in the correct direction or it won't do anything

32GB MicroSD Card Works fine, just make sure to format it through the camera.

Unofficial but awesome Mobius Configuration Tool Use the tooltips(hover over each option) to figure out what each things does. I set mine to autorecord when external power or the button are pushed.


You can find a lot of info here: dashcamtalk.com


To summarize the connections are:

Choose a fuse from your car's fuse diagram (non-essential and switchable), pull it, place it in the correct slot of the add-a-circuit (don't go to higher amps than is supported), plug in a fuse from the add-a-circuit kit in to the other slot to protect your camera (I used a 3A), strip the hardwire kit's cables mentioned above, put the red cable (+) from the hard wire kit in the the red end of the add-a-circuit and crimp it closed, attach the black cable (-) to a screw attached to the metal car frame, tape the two middle pins (2 and 3) in the USB cable with electrical tape, plug the USB in to the female USB on the hardwire kit, run the USB cable from the fuse box around the edges of your cars trim, up by the rearview mirror, attach the right-angle mini-usb adapter, choose where you want to mount the camera (make sure to check using the USB plugged in and camera mounted to the mount, in case it bumps the rearview mirror) (I held it on the windshield about where I thought I wanted it (to behind and to the right of the rearview mirror and took some test footage, watched it on a computer, decided it looked ok, pulled the sticker cover and attached it), clean your windshield with glass cleaner, attach the mount.

If you're looking to get the HR monitor as well, you're actually better off buying the watch and monitor separately. On Amazon (and most retailers I've seen) the combo is around $240-250, but you can get the watch itself for around $180. Amazon has great deals on the HR monitor (you can usually find one for around $35-40, far less than retail), so you could easily save $20-30 by buying them separately. Just a heads up!

While I'm at it, I've had the Vivoactive since launch and have very few complaints. While it's not a full-fledged cycling computer, it does the basics quite well. It also easily syncs up to HR monitors and speed/cadence sensors if you want to get a little more in-depth. The fitness tracker aspect, as well as some helpful widgets are just an added bonus. If your a beginner-intermediate rider and aren't overly concerned with some of the more cycling computer-specific features, I think you'll be more than happy with the features it provides.

Edit: Garmin also sells a handlebar mount for around $10-15 if you don't want to have to look at your wrist while riding.

If it were me, I'd prefer something that I can actually use on or in the car, as opposed to clothing/wallets/accessories.

Off the top of my head:

• New pair of front floor mats (if his are worn)
  
• Rear decklid lip spoiler (eBay - I'd check seller reviews carefully before purchasing)
  
• BMW valve stem caps ($4, found on eBay)
  
• Griots Garage car care kit ($65 on Amazon). I got this as a gift a few years back, one of the best car-related gifts I've been given. I still use the Griots stuff and replace individual items as needed
  
• Mountek smartphone mount ($30 on Amazon) - This is the best mount I've come across. I have an E46 M3 and it fits perfectly in the CD slot, nice and compact and can easily be removed if needed.
  
  Good luck!
  

Sure. Here's the shopping list:

Project Box (5 pack, $5.80)

SMA Connectors (4 Pack, $5.85)

SMA Pigtails (Need 2, $4.85/ea)

SMA Extension Cable (Need 2, $8.50/ea) (3 feet)

RAM Suction Cup Mount ($15.99)

Start out by making four small pilot holes in the project box where you see both the connectors and antennas on mine.

Use the screws included with the RAM mount to go through the bottom left and top right corners of the bottom of the project box. This almost perfectly lines up with the holes in the suction cup, but make sure to use a template. You will not use the ball piece that comes with the suction cup.

Connect an SMA Female-Female connector on one end of each of the pigtails. Tighten with a wrench and pliers, but careful not to mess up the thread.

Enlarge the two holes on the small side of the project box to fit the female-female connectors (that you just attached) through, barely. Use generous hot glue to fix them in place on the inside, with the screw end from the SMA pigtail being pushed all the way up to the project box wall to allow as much of the connector to stick out as possible. Note, you may need to apply pressure to keep the connectors as straight and tight as possible until the glue cools/dries completley.

Take the other ends of the pigtail connectors (with the included nuts and other stuff) and put them through the other two holes on opposite long sides of the project box (Make sure you don't mix up left and right), enlarging the holes as necessary to ensure they fit. Use the included fittings to fix them in place firmly. (Use a wrench to tighten)

Stuff the pigtails in the project box, again verifying that you didn't mix up left and right. Close it up, connect the 3 foot SMA cables to the plugs on the bottom, and wire them into your Stratux. You should be good to go!

Photo

If you want to track cycling, swimming, and running, I'd suggest a device designed for triathletes, such as the Garmin Forerunner 920XT. It's pricey, but I'm not sure you can do much cheaper for multi-sport tracking with a heart rate monitor. As a bonus it's also compatible with cadence sensors and power meters.

In my experience, using a watch is not as convenient as a cycling-specific computer (I used to have a Polar watch before moving to a Garmin Edge), but it's certainly adequate. They sell handlebar mounts for the watch so you don't need to have it on your arm while you're on the bike. It's perfectly adequate as long as you don't mind having a smaller display.

So I found my temporary solution. It's by no means ideal, but it does what I want it to and cost me less than $50.

First, I got one of these things to put on my dash. It fits my nexus 7 pretty well, but it is a snug fit.

Since I wanted it to be a clean look, as clean as I could get at this point anyway, I decided to get a bluetooth receiver to plug into my aux input.

You can go cheaper on either, but that works well for me.

I used this stand and have it braced against my center console coming up. They do make completely rigid ones but are much higher $. And here is the back side. And yes. All of the ram mounts I have gotten have been awesome. It’s not going to stay perfectly still without bracing it but works like a charm and I have had no issues. Have the same mount in a separate small car and can take the whole mount off and move it from vehicle to vehicle.

I use a Garmin Forerunner 610 with wireless sensor.

It's primarily a running watch, but works pretty well as a bike computer too. Just uses a little rubber adapter to mount on the handlebars.

Definitely not something to get for the bike unless you do a lot of running as well, but I definitely dig it.

Currently Amazon has the blue/yellow single Grand Trunk hammocks for $25. Pretty awesome price: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A0IH5I/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Tent Waterproofing - $9.99
  
  
• Battery Backup 15600 mAh, aka MASSIVE - $29.99
  
  
• Tent stake mallet with pulling peg - $7.00
  
  
• Glow in the dark tent stakes x10 - $9.18
  
  
• Action Poncho (very high quality for a possible rain out) - $12.60
  
  
• Battery powered 10" tent fan - $22.98
  
  
• Mini battery powered fan - $5.88
  
  
• Chill Pad headband - $6.57
  
  
• LED headlamp - $6.99
  
  
• Highly rated sleep mask - $9.89

I've had a G2 since it was released and have been using the same car mount that I used with my old Galaxy Nexus. It's universal and the best dock I ever purchased. It uses you CD slot on your stereo. No having to stick it to your windshield or dash and worrying about it detaching or anything. One of the best accessories I ever got for a phone.

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1396033083&sr=1-1&keywords=mountek

They also have a newer one that works with a magnet. I never used it, but it gets good reviews. I just prefer the old tried and true original more. Here's the newer one as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Mount-Smartphones-Tablets/dp/B00HMDYH2U/ref=sr_1_2?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1396033324&sr=1-2&keywords=mountek

I use a RAM mount with just the suction cup, short arm and X grip

It feels pretty damn safe holding my Nexus 6 in a case but I will say the X grip allows some rotation and may be shakier than another mount would be. Then again I don't know if being perfectly solid to the car is the most desirable thing.

Here's an example of how shaky it is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTm8b9vfpio

I'm not terribly serious about autox so it's good enough to help me learn the course between runs.

Here's the best way to handle this. I'm making assumptions that you have a smartphone and the RCA jacks in your car's armrest.

Get the following.

• a wired to bluetooth transmitter
  
• a usb car charge port
  
• 3.5mm to rca jack cable (as short as possible)
  
• a cd player mount for your phone
  
  Take the 3.5->RCA cord and plug the RCA ends into the aux jack inside the armrest. Put the USB charger in the 12v socket that's also in the armrest. Take the bluetooth transmitter plug in the power (with the supplied micro USB to normal USB cord) and plug in the 3.5 end of the RCA cord to the jack on the transmitter.
  
  Once the car is on and the transmitter is powered up, pair your phone to the transmitter per the instructions that came with it. After its paired, put all the wires and the transmitter in the armrest and forget about it. You'll never have to deal with it again unless something goes wrong.
  
  Now take the CD player car mount, and turn it so it's horizontal. Put your phone in it and adjust the sides to make sure it doesn't slide out. Switch your car audio system to AUX and leave it there. The only downside is you can't control the audio from the steering wheel. The only thing you can do is adjust the volume.
  
  Now you have an always updated nav system that has guidance and the ability to listen to all your music via the car stereo. I wouldn't try any other BT transmitter. It's the key to the whole deal and I know that one works. The rest of the stuff is universal and pretty generic. You may have some/most of them already. You can really shop around for the USB charger, RCA cable and CD player mount and get the cost down more. The whole setup should be around $75 or less.
  
  This is by far the most effective, economical way to get what you want. There isn't really a way to update or modernize the stock equipment outside of buying a new car. I'm pretty sure that's by design.
  

They do make pretty inexpensive rubber bar mounts for watches. I found my watch (Suunto Ambit2S, so not a smartwatch, just a GPS watch) to be super uncomfortable on my wrist while biking, and it was leaving chafing marks, so I picked this bar mount up, and it's been great. I didn't already have a bike computer though, and I already owned the watch and was happy with it for running and hiking, so for me it was a cheap solution that worked out great and allowed me to stick with one device. I do agree that someone who just wants a GPS for biking might as well go with a traditional GPS bike computer, but it sounds like OP might want some of the smartwatch features, so if that's the case, this may help.

This CD slot mount works far better than you might think, especially in cars without flat dashes. I'm very happy with it and it puts the phone in the perfect location, at the expense of slightly obscuring the stereo. Since all I do on the stereo is volume control for Bluetooth, no big deal. Bonus, no glue/adhesive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G1L52Q

Edit: The "reachability" on this is really good, vs something far away on top of the dash.

I'm a huge fan of the quality and customizability of Ram X-Grip Mounts, but they are expensive and - since you mentioned you don't want something on top of the dash and all I've ever used are their incredible suction-cup mounts - I won't go as far as to recommend their cupholder mount, but just to look into it, based on my experience with their suction cup products. Remember that with the 6+, you'll probably need the Phablet holder because the Universal Phone holder will be a tight squeeze.

However, I also use this CD-slot mount when travelling through states with laws against suction cup mounts. Bought it because it was cheap, but it's been a solid product and, most importantly, it feels stable when secured in place. If you don't ever use your CD slot, this is a great solution. The only criticism I would have about the Mountek is that the release lever in the back is tough to get to when the phone is mounted, but that shouldn't be too much of an issue.

If you don't use the CD player, I really recommend this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/

It has worked great for me, I use it holding the phone in landscape, is very secure and puts your phone in a place that's easily visible/accessible and doesn't block any vents. The only drawback I think it has is that it partially blocks the Stereo Volume Knob (sits in front of it) but the knob is still pretty easy to get to if you need to, and with voice/steering wheel controls you never really need it anyway.

Here's someone else's thoughts and photos in-car :
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-accessories/7479-car-dock-actually-puts-your-phone-somewhere-useful-4.html#post160745

I've got two preferred options I've used before in other cars, but not the Fiesta so far.

Something like this is a nice and easy mount. You can get one that grips onto a climate vent instead if that works better for you. They're easy and cheap and not as bulky.

Second option for larger holders that use a suction cup mount, buy one of these discs to create a flat surface to stick to that isn't hanging off the window and blocking your view. You could put that just to the left of your steering wheel, above the climate vent. I prefer this for Satnavs etc.

You're welcome! I've been looking at this mount - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YGGFOW

I've canvased the most popular ones on Amazon and it seems like this one is the best to go with.

I use This one

its a CD slot mount...I haven't used a CD in ages, so I figure I would put the slot to good use.

very secure, the bottom ledge gives me peace of mind. its a 2 handed operation though, which sucks, it also messes with your CD slot..no permanent damage, but I have some "dust flaps" in teh slot that are now folded up and out of the way, so it just looks weird when the mount isn't in there. other than that, it works great, and Love it...they have other options now though that I may look into.

I've been using this one for like a year or more.

It does damage the dust things on the CD player but it still plays CDs. I would recommend one if you don't mind that detail. The placement is perfect for me it's just second nature to put my phone there; I see it as part of the car now like a cup holder.

edit: spelling.

Here's the blow-by-blow:

• There's a great modding guide over in the sidebar. It takes you through getting the most common custom firmwares onto any PSP device, and it's literally a ten minute job, if that.
  
• Everyone will give a different answer for batteries. Generally, most aftermarket batteries are terrible, so some recommend hunting down original ones - but you have no idea what sort of condition they'll be in at this point. Another option is removing the UMD drive and installing a LiPo in the void left behind, but that can be a bit intensive, and not everyone wants to lose UMD capability. You can also - with great care - dissect an original battery and install a new cell. Personally, I just picked up a 1200mAh Cameron Sino battery from Amazon two months ago and it seems to be holding up well.
  
• Don't bother with overpriced Memory Duo cards - just get a Micro SD to Memory Pro Duo adapter. It's a lot cheaper and you can get higher capacity cards.
  
• I've never used a Pandora battery, so I'll leave that to someone else. I don't think you need them now, though.

I just got this and this and run the phone without turning it's screen off. Gets the job done perfectly, also got a free GPS app that works great (Waze).

Depending on your wrist/glove/jacket thickness, you'd probably need a 3rd party strap.

For motorcycling think about whether you really want to have to take your hand from the handlebar to get a glance of where to go next. Using the official Garmin Bike Mount on a Lixada Mount is much safer in that case. It's definitely readable, you just have to focus a bit. But it's much less distracting than having to read something on your wrist. Only a little drawback: It makes the heart rate sensor register some nonsense and it also "tracks" the motorcycle vibrations as "steps" towards your daily goal.

Here's the Garmin (910xt) data output from one of my rides: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/318868123

I really like it and you can get a handlebar mount if you want to view it off your wrist. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VK5BMQ/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit/ I have the heart rate monitor also, that's where the heart rate data comes from.

I've tried a few.

I have ended up with the following for three bikes:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055PH0XA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UGZTQO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012TWRAO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

The last one attaches to your handlebars, the middle goes in the middle, and the "X-Claw" holds the phone.

I commute ~19 miles a day in an urban environment. I have hopped curbs with this setup successfully and Icebiked over rough uneven icy/snowy terrain.

It probably would not be good enough for single-track or similar.

It has an added benefit in that the design works for almost any smartphone.

The spring in the first one I bought three years ago got soft this summer so I bought the "X-Claw" part to replace it. (which is nice - you fix only the part that isn't working).

Its an awesome setup - I recommend it.

I was having the same issue with battery life, especially as I started to ride further and further. In the end I bit the bullet and bought myself a Garmin Forerunner 410 watch...and I have to say that it's one of the best bits of kit I've ever picked up.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Garmin-Forerunner-Sportswatch-Heart-Monitor/dp/B0046BTK14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370362737&sr=8-1&keywords=forerunner+410

I actually picked it up in a sale for around £110, so have a look around before buying. After a couple of months of happily using it, I also picked up one of these...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Garmin-Bike-Mount-Forerunner-Series/dp/B000VK5BMQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1370362923&sr=1-2&keywords=forerunner+mount

So now when I get on my bike I wrap the watch around the handlebar and off I go. The stats you get from Garmin Connect are absolutely invaluable - and they've been incredibly accurate so far.

Hope that helps!

I've always thought that the CD ones were the best. This is the one I use and it works great. Very stable.

They don't really exist in that format, or if they do, they're extremely expensive and specialized. GPS is unidirectional, meaning a GPS device knows its own position, but can't transmit that position back to anything else without another component, typically a cell radio or something like that. While [a GPS receiver around the size of a quarter is feasible] (https://www.amazon.com/GlobalSat-BR-355-Serial-GPS-Receiver/dp/B000VUFGF8) , the data that such a receiver gathers is useless without some way of storing it (for later analysis) or sending it back to you (for real time analysis). Likewise, the power consumption of most GPS devices is far greater than what a quarter-sized battery could provide for a week. The transmitter part takes up quite a bit more space and a ton more battery life, which just compounds the issue.

Most GPS units are geared towards outdoor enthusiasts, and therefore aim to get as accurate track coverage as possible (thereby reducing battery life). If all you needed was a point location every couple hours or something, the battery life becomes less of an issue, but you'd still need the transmission component and to know how to connect them together to do what you want.

So, in short, relax your requirements for size, battery life, and portability and you may be able to piece something together (with a considerable degree of know-how, considering these things aren't just a single component).

So I offer two kits now.

One is complete including the rPi. Comes with the new case, dual low power SDR's, high gain antennas, SD card, GPYes, and an AHRS module.

The original more basic kit with just the case, SD card, SDR's and antennas for people who already have an rPi or want a different GPS.

And all the other bits and pieces to DIY it however you like.

Cases

Serial adapters

AHRS modules

GPYes

VK-162

Low power SDR's

Dans great antennas

SDR and antenna combo

Preloaded SD cards

I've had one of these for a few months now:

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

It mounts with a clamp in your CD slot (has not damaged the 3 different slots I've mounted it in) and securely holds your phone. I absolutely love it. It mounts my phone in a good location, I don't use CD's anyway and it's very adjustable.

It's also only $25.

I would assume the F6 variants would have a quick release mount, but a quick search doesn't turn up anything yet. Interesting. I just use the Garmin Forerunner bike mount - it's not quick release but it's quick enough for me. Works great with 945 and a Fēnix 3 before that.

This solution is not entirely new. I've had one of these mounts for a while. This is the one I have. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004G1L52Q?pc_redir=1414054703&robot_redir=1

I do like the price point of this crowdfunded bracket though. If you back the project with $20 you get a bracket. I think that's a fair price.

Btw there's a good chance of this submission to get downvoted because it really doesn't have anything to do with android.

I didnt even know these existed! Thanks for the share :D

So if you are interested in throwing money at the problem, so to speak, here's something that might be helpful - https://www.amazon.com/URWOOW-USB3-0-Square-Flush-Mount/dp/B07J4WWHB1/. I've used them in a number of previous projects and they are a breeze to install when you have to re-locate ports to another dash/console location.

Come to think of it... I'm not a huge fan of the ports being located in the center console anyway. I might use this as an excuse to move them up to the front-console cubby area lol.

I've used little usb direct hardwire dealies like this guy before.

Just power it of switched 12v, and hide it all nicely behind the dash.

Or this one will give you direct micro usb, to cut out a cable.

edit : I'm sure there are waaaay cheaper options that do the same thing. Those were just easily found :)

its funny how many people don't know how to put up a suction cup correctly. If you wet a suction cup before you put it up it stays. Every so often you pop it off, dab a little water on there and you are good to go. Never had an issue with mine. You can buy a roll of gorilla tape for $6 or $7 or a universal suction cup mount for $10 and not have to worry. I ordered this one can it comes with different connectors so it will fit:
https://www.amazon.com/iSportgo-Suction-Different-Recorder-Cameras/dp/B06ZZW2Q77/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1504229476&sr=8-7

Well I would love a head unit that actually interfaced with my phone. Im hoping Apple and Pioneer will do the new siri and appleTVish head unit that should be in some cars by next year.

I bought this awesome car mount and it works great...who even uses CDs anymore

I've been using [this bean bag mount] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CRQUKQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_uUwPwbH9AQSP3) for awhile and it's worked pretty well. The power and volume buttons end up resting right in the middle of the top lid.

I prefer the bean bag mounts since they don't leave any visible sign that you've used a GPS that might make someone try to break in. It's also easier to travel with since you just need to toss it on the dash.

Something like this?

I've never bought a geotagger but AFAIK you just carry that thing with you and it constantly tracks your location into a file. You then use included software to sync your location with your photos based on the time they were taken. It's pretty important that your clock is set right for obvious reasons. You'll still be off by a bit, but you can just enter an offset in whatever software you use.

They sell compact 12V to USB power supplies like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Compact-Hardwire-Adapter-Smartphone-SiriusXM/dp/B00I3P6QQG/ref=asc_df_B00I3P6QQG/

One of these is compact and light, you can use double stick tape to attach to back of mirror.

SolderSeal connectors both solder and insulate in one connector:

https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Sopoby-Waterproof-Automotive-Electrical/dp/B01FI6IKG6

Or just use some T-taps like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Terminals-Insulated-Connectors-Baleauty/dp/B06Y61K18G

In general with a multimeter you can quickly identify which wires are positive ( + 12 volts) and which wires are ground (-) on a car. The vehicle chassis is ground.
https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-Multimeters-Voltmeter-Ohmmeter-Backlight/dp/B07G4BH5F8/

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter/all#measuring-voltage

As someone with soldering skills, I would just install a supercapacitor on the power lead to power the camera for the few seconds the car is cranking.

However, if you don't have those types of skills, you could hardwire your cam to an ignition hot supply instead of accessory hot supply like it is now. What you'll need is a fuse panel tap like this one to tap into a source of ignition hot at the fuse panel, and a USB hardwire kit like this one to supply the 5V needed by the cam. Then a long enough USB cable to reach from the fuse box to the cam.

Anyone with an hour or two to spare and a crimper can do this easily. If however you aren't comfortable doing this yourself, a local audio shop should be able to install this for you very easily.

I wanted a ninja install of 2 Brook Super Converters, and a memory card with FMCB on it. One converter in, and the MC. Both work swimmingly, and hide right inside, affixed to the inside-top of the shell.

I'm going to prep and install the second converter tomorrow, as well as scope out a way to extend the USB ports to the side or back of the console-- for controller pairing and charging purposes. I'm thinking about repurposing this extension.

EDIT: Well crap, now I'm thinking I might be able to tap into the data +/- signals on the front USB ports, while leaving them intact for regular usage as well.

I bought a toll transponder suction cup mount when we rented a vehicle while on vacation. I bought some double sided mounting tape and adhered the dash cam mount to the suction cup mount. Worked great.

ARKON BT010 Windshield Suction Mount for EZ Pass Toll Transponders Bluetooth GPS Receivers and Radar Detectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FGI9R0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iLIsDb43H0T9S

I enjoy the one I have... I'll have to get the name for you tomorrow though, but for now it is a similar design to this

On mine there is a button on the back which opens the arms, and you just push back and it clicks and your good to go...

Edit : also, I'm super jealous.

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q
This is what I use and its pretty awesome.

This is a pretty good list.
I would add a battery recharger in case you're sitting in a siding for hours on end and your phone dies.

Also some aluminum foil. I premake all my meals and wrap them in foil then toss them in the engine bay or on the sidewall heaters.

I also photocopied my timetable sections so I could pull them out real quick if needed. And I would make a bunch on notes on them for things I didn't see very often. Maybe having to hold off certain crossings or even stuff like "McDonalds here" in case we stopped for a while and could grab something to eat.

If you dont know your speed limits, have that timetable out and follow along with your engineer. That's your job on the line and you need to know that stuff. And your mileposts! don't be that conductor that has to ask the engineer where he is at.


Carry extra safety shit (glasses, vest, ect)

I've used quite a few, usually form amazon, under $20.

I tried finding it but can't seem to locate it, but gizmodo/lifehacker/jalopnik had an article about the best car mounts.

I know this was on that list:
http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1409277166&sr=1-5&keywords=car+mount

First off, get this phone mount instead. If you have a phone (which means you have bluetooth and AUX at your disposal), you don't need the CD player. It works wonderfully and makes it feel built-in to the car.

Otherwise, just keep a phone charge cable around.

If you actually want to talk mods, some people have installed backup cameras and integrated radar detectors (that mount to the front of the car), so those would make things better.

>Garmin makes a nice bicycle bar mount kit for their Forerunner watches, works great with a Pebble too:
http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Forerunner-Bicycle-Mount-Kit/dp/B000VK5BMQ

Garmin makes a nice bicycle bar mount kit for their Forerunner watches, works great with a Pebble too:

http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Forerunner-Bicycle-Mount-Kit/dp/B000VK5BMQ

I have used the AMOD GPS Logger and as long as my camera time is accurate merging the log to the images is easy.

If you have an iPhone GPSTrack (about 2 dollars), is a good choice as well. I still use the external logger just because it saves the battery life on my phone and when I hang it off my backpack it is very accurate.

I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G1L52Q
Instead of mounting it in the cd player like it is supposed to, I put it in the upper gap between the head unit and the trim piece. It works out pretty well.

I didn't want to do a windshield mount, and dash mounts usually require adhesive to hold in place. I was looking for something completely reversible, and my research lead me to the CD tray mount. There's a bunch on the market and it took me a while to find one that would fit without obstructing my radio screen, a lot of them have knobs/thumbscrews that stick out of the bottom to tighten the mount. Ended up getting this, lowest profile one I could find. Bonus it came with some basic charger cable management.

Very satisfied customer. Shipping takes a while from korea though.

Sweet I went ahead and ordered one. I switched to windows phone so I have an android phone I don't use anymore which would be perfect for this. I went ahead and bought this to go along with it to hold my phone. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G1L52Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you do plan on using a pebble for this, I would recommend a mount like this.

I have one and it works great for mounting on the handlebars.

Check out Ram Mounts, they offer highly modular and rock solid mounts for phones/tablets, would be perfect for this kind of application. I use this one in my car:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI2W24O

Add an extra arm or two and a clamp-style mount/wall mount to replace the suction cup and you'd be all set.

Anyone have the dimensions for the switch handy? I'm wondering if the large phone/phablet clamp I have is big enough for the console. I'm sure it can take the weight.

You guys know these are a thing right? You peel of the backing, it somewhere convenient, and then you and stick your phone mount or whatever right to it. They're pretty cool and don't look too out of place if you've not got something suckered to it.

I can't offer any advice on removing the marks left behind, but I can recommend you use something like this to mount your phone there next time.

It's pretty easy to add a usb charging port with this and this.

I use X-Grip. Best thing for all the phones I go through:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7B2NV4

They have different ways of mounting it, but i use this:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZOW1U2
Mounts to the bolt that holds the front passenger seat down, but there are better options...

I second this one. I got one based on a few Redditor's recommendations and it's solid, and is very... positionable, if you know what I mean.

The linked item is just the phablet grip. You'll also need one of these (though they come in a few different lengths. This is the medium one, it seems) and the suction mount. There's a couple suction mount options, but I know this one is solid and easy to put in place. I don't have experience with the other one.

I use this http://amzn.com/B004G1L52Q in my car for my 920. It works great, just make sure you have a spot to put it

I've ordered mine, we'll see when it arrives. I can tell you my old Sony Smartwatch 3 did an admirable job. The issue is cycling and taking your eyes off the road to look at data on your wrist. It's harder than it sounds. I purchased this but honestly never tested it out.

I'm having this problem at the minute with a 3rd party battery I've purchased recently and used just once. I picked up a 3rd party as the official small psp batteries seem to have a poor shelf life and wanted to find a good alternative. I am currently awaiting a reply from the seller (they have until the end of today).

My battery, when put on charge, takes just a few minutes before the orange light disappears. However it will not switch on unless the mains lead is connected to the wall. When on the home screen I can see the battery icon flip from being shown to being hidden. Clearly it's a battery issue - my other battery works fine for charging and using.

The link below shows the battery I purchased just in case anyone wants to know.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-battery-PSP-2000-PSP-3000-PSP-3004/dp/B004WLOJ1E

I would either use Velcro or a suction mount. This suction cup mount should work but check the dimensions first to make sure your camera mounting pad will fit on the suction mount.

I have it as well, [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-Universal-Smartphone-Blackberry-Motorola/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=pd_cp_cps_3) it is.

Works great in my G35.

Sorry if the formatting is wonky, I'm doing this all from my phone.

Tablet holster
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004VBMNA4

Ball joint for holster
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002KO5XVU

Socket arm
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UGZTQO

Ball joint with male 1/4 inch 20 thread
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0059X0YIQ

Good luck!!

Yup - This is my recommendation:

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

http://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA1000-Tune2air/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411664194&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+audi

And any cell phone will do. You use the bluetooth adapter and you can stream Pandora/Spotify or your local music, as well as have Waze or Google Maps running at the same time to give you directions. Waze is particularly good at notifying you of police trap locations =)

Of course both of us cheap bastards love Meritline. But, also on Amazon Prime at the same price. Just ordered one. THANKS!!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004G1L52Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1421366621&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=5115%2BQ3bgRL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40#

/r/stratux is a great place to start for software and general Stratux questions.
On the hardware side, I used a Raspberry Pi 3, this battery, these antennas, this GPS receiver, and this cooling fan. The STL can be found here.

You could get a flashlight with a 1/4" camera tripod mount in it, a diffuser, and a 1/4" suction cup mount like this cheap one. Here are 71 possible options with a tripod mount of some sort and immersion waterproofing rating. 16 of them are some sort of warm or neutral white, but if you're decent at soldering, any of them could become whatever color temperature you want (a high color rendering index might also be nice for the application).

Stratux is good enough for a student starting off, that doesn't own a plane. My instructor has a Sentry and we have gotten 2 false alarms for Carbon Monoxide which we acted on. And in the past 3 weeks it's been turning off mid flight. So now my instructor has just been connecting to my Stratux and keeping his Sentry off and only using it in case the stratux acts odd.

My recommendation are these with it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJG2ZYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EROIUEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and you will have to use something like makexyz to print a suction cup mounted antenna holder.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1720290

SuctioncupmountVK162only.STL

makexyz.com

you'll need to get it made with ABS & make sure you select 100% infill.

you can find suction cups that fit it at Lowes, but not home depot or staples. I tried both.

the advantage of the external GPS is you keep the unit out of the direct sunlight, and way better reception. To use the external GPS you'll have to unplug the internal GPS, if you use that USB extender. It will just stick out of the case through the provided hole.

I had two internal GPS's perform very poorly. I have one of them sitting on my desk right now. It's the Stratux GPYes 2.0.

The internal GPS would never get better than 10M accuracy, but on 5 straight flights the best it was connecting was 100+M accuracy.

With the external GPS I've been getting 3M accuracy at the worst.

I did have it lose connection the other day, which resulted in me having to assign a new static IP and then it started working.

The advantage of the static IP with the Stratux is your device iphone, ipad, etc will keep its LTE data connection active if it has one. If you use the automatic IP option you'll lose LTE, which sucks for sitting on the ground.

Let me know if you need any more info.

I got this one back in September 2015. It's held up pretty well, and it does what it supposed to.
It's weird, I remember searching for a car mount back then and there just was not as much variety when I looked... Of course this was on Amazon.ca so selection is usually pretty limited when compared to the States.

If I were to get a new one, I'd go with one of the Mpow universal mounts because they seem to offer more range of movement compared to the one i currently use (only able angle the phone at 10-15 degrees).

I've gone though a couple mounts before though, due to the ball and socket breaking. Combination of probably over tightening and cold Canadian winters making the plastic brittle.

I go with Ram Mounts. They are good, solid mounts that seem to be very well built. Assuming a GoPro, you could do the following:


Base: https://www.amazon.com/RAM-Mounts-Diameter-Suction-RAM-B-224-1U/dp/B008JGZMZK/


Arm: https://www.amazon.com/RAM-Mounts-Double-Socket-RAM-B-201U-C/dp/B00CU9BTKY


GoPro Adapter (don't buy the actual Ram Mount adapter because it's one of the very few things they make that isn't any good): https://www.amazon.com/Swivel-Lateral-Pattern-Adapter-Mounts/dp/B00PDHYG0K


If you're looking for a generic camera screw-type adapter: https://www.amazon.com/1-Inch-Diameter-4-Inch-20-Cameras-Camcorders/dp/B0056I8SLE/

I've been using those cheap air vent holders you can get for something like $3 on aliexpress, it fits all phones and most cars (you need a pretty weird air vent for it to not fit), but recently I found a holder that goes in the CD slot, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

I think I might give this a try because 6P is quite a heavy phone and I'm beginning to see some wear on my air vent.

So this thread got me interested and I ordered the Mission Darkness bag, which claims EMP protection (as well as wifi, cell, bluetooth, etc.). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A7MACL2/ It was $23 and is big enough for one smartphone and a key fob and several cards. I tested with the MD Faraday Bag tester app and it seems to be working (I know, testing the bag with an app the bag maker makes, but it's probably the best out there). Bluetooth was getting some odd results, but after a few tries I got 100% blockage for cell, wifi, and bluetooth. See results of test here: https://imgur.com/a/eAp70jM

Ending up having this one
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004G1L52Q
Recommended on the fiat forums. Loving it.

I just use a cd-player-slot phone holder, since I don't use my CD player at all. You can still listen to CDs, but then you'll have to remove the phone holder anytime you need to remove/insert a CD.
This is one one them, but there are many others. Also, it keeps your phone at good eye level without looking towards the cup holder or without blocking your views out the windshield.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004G1L52Q?pc_redir=1409715232&robot_redir=1

If you don't use your CD slot (I never do), then you might like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1416079888&sr=8-8&keywords=car+phone+mount

I loved it. Only reason I stopped using it is I got a new car that had navigation built in, so I didn't have a need for the iPhone screen to be visible. (I'm not an Uber driver.)

I have this for mine. Works great. I had a smaller one that would droop due to vibrations but this one has an adjustment screw. I wish it could move a bit more but some sanding would fix that

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004G1L52Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://i.imgur.com/DYoWONe.jpg

No, you are still wrong. NO watches are designed to be direct mounted to handlebars. You do it with a separate item that adapts ALL watches to handlebar use.

You seem to be under some mistaken impression that someone is making watches that somehow magically work better on handlebars than others when its just a simple attachment that turns any watch into a nice handle bar mounted piece.

So again you are incorrect in your original statement still and keep going down this rabbit hole. I own one of these watches and i assure you there is nothing special that would make it any better on my bars than a $5 timex from walmart.

You keep throwing terms around like "default function" around yet dont seem to realize the default function of a watch is to be worn on your wrist, period. It requires an adapter regardless of what type of watch it is.

EDIT: For clarification this is what you use. It works exactly the same for any wrist watch you put on it. https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Forerunner-Bicycle-Mount-Kit/dp/B000VK5BMQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486584202&sr=8-3&keywords=garmin+handlebar+mount

I use the same 3.3" suction cup as the other guy in this thread:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008JGZMZK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B008JGZMZK&linkCode=as2&tag=britoper-20&linkId=SHVLWH5JKNIHMSRX

I then have the long 9" (I think) arm, then the tailor-made RAM case for the IPAD AIR II.

Works great.

I use aircraftspruce's RAM builder tool to buy all three at once.

I have done this twice, one for the 150, one for the 172. They stay permanently affixed to the windshield over on the right side.

Both are adjusted so that the right yoke clears the bottom of the ipad itself.

http://i.imgur.com/PLdGA0H.jpg

I ordered it off of ECS tuning here https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2960267/?gclid=CPft7qCXoMoCFY0XHwodk04N6g

And I wired it into my fuse box with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I3P6QQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_uYSKwbJDYPJXS

Easy install and cleans up nicely, would recommend.

This is the one I've been using for a few years now. Works great!
Mountek nGroove Universal CD Slot Mount for Cell Phones and GPS Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UytkybCSJP1FC

I use a Mountek one that fits into the CD slot of a stereo. I've used it on my Nexus 5, the Nexus 6 and a friend uses his with a 2013 Nexus 7.

I have to occasionally tighten things up on it, but I like it overall.

Mountek nGroove Universal CD Slot Mount for Cell Phones and GPS Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_iOcDwbP314ASD

I just got this one and it works pretty well with the 6P.

I have a Subaru Crosstrek and use this for my phone. I have a rapid charger as well since my commute is pretty short.

I despise sticking things to my dash or vents, and hate cheap plastic mounts that rattle.

Check out the RAM mount system. It's a modular kit, you buy only the pieces you need, and it's all very high grade metal parts.

They have rigid but flexible arms that you can bolt under the seat and thread up between the seat and center console, positioning however you like. Check it out:

RAM POD I Universal No-Drill(TM) Vehicle Laptop Mount with 18"" Rigid Aluminum Rod & Single Socket Arm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZOW1U2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_v2Xbvb141SBHW
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZOW1U2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_v2Xbvb141SBHW

It says laptop mount, but works for phones too. You just have to buy the phone head, and they make heads for many popular devices or a universal mount.

This is my plan for my mk7, but I don't know if there are any issues with install.

Seems as if Amazon has expanded their RAM inventory; this is the mount I have: http://www.amazon.com/RAM-Mount-Universal-No-Drill-Vehicle/dp/B006ZOW1U2

When I purchased it, it was sold with an iPad cradle and a ball to screw on the back, which I gave to my iPad owning friend. Mounting a device right on the shaft doesn't give a good range of motion, I have a 3-ball adapter (RAM-B-289U) to allow 2 mounts to hang off the one shaft. I paid $32, and I feel it was worth it. Overpriced, but worth it.

If you don't feel that will be necessary, using this $15 2-ball adapter with one socket arm gives you a much larger range of adjustability, without having to bend the aluminum shaft repeatedly.

https://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494212509&sr=8-2&keywords=mountek+cd+mount

I love this one. I've had mine for a long time and have bought the same one for several family members.

Hands down best mount I've used:
http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417459796&sr=8-1&keywords=phone+holder+cd+slot+mountek

I use this one and I love it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004G1L52Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1503958266&sr=8-31&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cd+player+phone+holder&dpPl=1&dpID=5115%2BQ3bgRL&ref=plSrch

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G1L52Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

I like it more because it actually has support on the bottom, so the phone wouldn't fall out.

Windshield mounts typically need a flat, smooth surface to attach to which a dashboard typically isn't. To remedy this, you can buy mount disks that stick to your dashboard and provide a surface to mount to. I bought these ones:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001763SRI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and they've been great.

I use this in my NC...if you have a cd player where the slod is not constantly being used it works great

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407860040&sr=8-2&keywords=mountek

Got a Mountek in 2014. 2 years later and its still working great. http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

I bought this one Works and looks great.

Do you have a CD player? I mean, do you have something that you can put this:http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398258702&sr=8-1&keywords=cd+slot+mount on?

If you get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Lerway-Wireless-Power-Charger-Lumia920/dp/B00E9MUNWU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1398258756&sr=8-3&keywords=qi+charger and break it open/glue the guts to the yellow part of the slot mount, you have a pretty sweet QI charger/mount. It seems there arent many options for this, but this worked well for me. I'll try and take some photos today of what I did.

I have 2 of these. Works like a champ. Won't find any better. http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404748088&sr=8-1&keywords=cell+phone+holder+CD+slot

Here is the non-mobile link from the comment


*This bot is supported by the referral link above. If you wish to not use a referral link, you may use this link instead.

The SiRF III chipset was (is?) pretty popular. I've used this particular one for projects. It's just the chipset with an antenna and a long cable. Speaks 2.8v serial @ 4800 baud. I think that manufacturer has serial (over usb) versions.

Most GPS devices will be serial (actual serial, serial over usb or serial over bluetooth) and use the NMEA protocol which should work with damn near anything. If you want it to work over TCP/IP, grab gpsd. Many linux applications that use GPS are designed to use gpsd.

Yours has the upgraded head unit but I use a a mount inserted into the CD slot. It's pretty much in as perfect location for visibility. Charging kind of sucks since the charging cable's in the way a bit.

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8trduhl2bjb5sp0/Photo%20Nov%2008%2C%202%2028%2020%20PM.jpg?dl=0

I had a ProClip in my old Y34 M45.

You can get CD drive holders as well. Much easier, if you have the clearance.

An example is this. Check out the reviews for it.

This is only data I’ve collected; there’s no reference to USGS DEMs or anything like that.

Gory details:

I like walking and carry one of these loggers pretty much everywhere. I dump it into a postgres database with 3 million rows so far.

To make this visualization, I wrote a stupid little python script that just generates a bunch of "select avg(ele) from points where lat <= %s" ..., colorizes them (one loop of the color wheel per 128 meters) and uses PIL to draw an image. For the big one, this was 4 million queries and took about half an hour. It’s not clever, but it’s effective.

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

I know you said air vent, but maybe this CD-mounted one will work? It's adjustable for any size phone. Much better IMO, but I guess if you use CDs regularly it won't work.

I have a car mount coming in from Mountek. I'll give you a good general thought whether it's worth it or not when I test it tonight/tomorrow morning. A lot of high reviews, so I'll see how it is.

I am a fan of the Ram brand mounts. I would recommend this arm with this holder. You will just need to mount it to your bed or wall above her.

I have a 2013 Elantra GT, and I use a CD slot-mounted holder.

https://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

I'm not sure of the brand of the one I use, but if it's not the one I linked it's something very similar. Works quite well.

Ah, the CD slot, the perfect place for your cell phone holder.

I got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372127918&sr=8-1&keywords=mount+tek

So I have the HTC one sitting in front of a fan vent, blowing AC during the summer helps keep the phone cool :) Just putting it out there..

I have a 1A charger and the battery charges while on GPS/Streaming bluetooth audio, you have to keep it on battery saver mode if you want the screen on at all times. I usually just disable the screen and rely on the audio navigation, I find google maps voice navigation sufficient for myself but that might be different for others.

I'm using this CD mount. Its perfect if you disable the Bixby button, which i haven't.

https://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

Make an all purpose travelpi.
Get a PI3, load it up with raspbian or your preferred OS and throw it together with this Screen and case combo. Add some heatsinks to keep it cool, put emulation station on there for all the downtime gaming action you could ask for. Then have some fun playing with accessories. Here's a bluetooth vehicle diagnostics monitor you can use with pyOBD to monitor any 96 and up vehicle to check gas mileage and check error codes. Here's a GPS module for logging miles and checking locations and for the times you just absolutely must get wifi no matter what heres an adapter and antenna that will reach out and touch someone in the next country.

Edit: game pads

yeah.. would be nice to have 1.3. I ended up buying a car mount and just keeping my display on so i can see whats playing

I also use a CD Slot Mount [Mountek nGroove] (http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1425335821&sr=8-10&keywords=cd+mount+nexus+6). The only issue I have is it blocks my preset buttons on the radio. Other than that, I love it!

I use a mount that fits into the CD slot for my M7. It's solid, easy to access and adjustable for plenty of sized phones. http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415139840&sr=8-1&keywords=car+phone+holder+cd

I've seen Faraday bags (like in the link) before, and I got to test it by putting my phone in and having my friend call me, but it never got through. Upon pulling my phone back out, I watched it climb back up to full bars from no service. I'm not recommending the bag I linked in particular (just using it as an example), but I CAN attest that they seem to work! You could probably also build your own, too!




I'm definitely wondering how it works though, because I thought Faraday cages had to be grounded, and the bag was resting on a seemingly non-conductive table when I tried to have it receive a call.

I got this one from Amazon for my mkvi and it works great with my Samsung Galaxy Note II:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

I wanted one that wouldn't stick to the windshield or sit on the dashboard. No complaints so far and I would recommend it to anyone who owns a large smartphone.

I just use a simple attachment that slips into the cd tray, twist a knob to open the bit inside the cd tray and then slap my phone into the hold bracket. Can remove it and install it real fast without any damages.

Edit: Here is the exact one I got

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_7?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1450888221&sr=1-7&keywords=cd+phone+holder

I've used this one for a few different phones now. Just tested my new 6p on the way in to work this morning and it works perfectly. My old phones were too fat to fit but the thinness of this phone actually works with this holder.

This is what I have.

I actually ran the USB-C power cable behind my dashboard and into a USB jack that is directly wire into the fuse box with a fuse tap. It makes it look really clean.

https://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

I use this one, it's worked fantastically, it fits basically any phone, and as long as the charging port is in the bottom center, it's flawless.

The ball joints do add a couple inches to the overall length as well, so it should be right around console height if you can get it mostly vertical. If you want something longer you could use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006ZOW1U2 It would replace the arm and lower bracket, so all you'd need is the AMPS plate and Bracketon clamp mentioned earlier. Another option is to use a double ball connector and use two of the solid arms. Keep in mind that the longer the mount, the more wobbly it will be, so you want to keep it as short as practical.

Mountek nGroove Grip. It goes into your CD slot and a little flap opens up to remain there very solidly. It's more stable than a suction cup and the quality is pretty good too. Only downside is you can't listen to CDs while your phone is mounted, but I haven't listened to a CD in almost 2 years.

Get a RAM ball to replace one of your yoke screws

Motorcycle M8 Bolt Handlebar Clamp Mounting 2.5 cm Ball https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005J43I56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qSIkDb3P1GVTY

Then a standard RAM arm

RAM Mounts UNPKD RAM DOUBLE SOCKET ARM, 1" BALL, RAM-B-201U (1 BALL) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000UGZTQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JTIkDb1RH70QX

Then a case (plenty to choose from)

Universal Waterproof/Weather Proof GPS SatNav Case with RAM 1inch Ball Fitting for RAM Mounts (SKU 6525) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003CG2KAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UWIkDb0W253MZ

I had this setup on my Honda Deauville, works great.

> * https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FGI9R0/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000FGI9R0&linkCode=as2&tag=dacata-20 - Affiliated link

vs

• https://www.amazon.com/ARKON-BT010-Windshield-Transponders-Bluetooth/dp/B000FGI9R0 - Same link not Affiliated link
  
  So the way it was explained to me, ?ie=UTF8 or simply after the question mark is an indication that it is an affiliated link. - I did not setup auto moderator.
  
  Edit: I don't know so much about mod type things, I mostly do advice, and clear out the spam/report folder.

This is the one I use - http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/5115%2BQ3bgRL._SX300_.jpg

It actually fits into your CD slot. Puts the phone where it can be easily seen for GPS, does not leave that 'ring' on your windows or block any of your windows, won't use up a cupholder, and it does not block any airvents. I really like it.

Been thinking about getting a few of these -> Mission Darkness Non-Window Faraday Bag for Phones - Device Shielding for Law Enforcement, Military, Executive Privacy, Travel & Data Security, Anti-hacking & Anti-tracking Assurance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A7MACL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TPF.AbDJB66DF

I really like the CD slot cell phone holders. Who uses CDs anyway?

Here's an example (there are many other styles available).

Yes. https://www.amazon.com/Compact-Hardwire-Adapter-Smartphone-SiriusXM/dp/B00I3P6QQG/ref=asc_df_B00I3P6QQG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312182162834&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14892076698876430292&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021698&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-567154152460&psc=1

Metal materials scatter and reflect radio frequencies (like Wi-Fi, bluetooth, analog radio & television, GPS, radar, etc.). Since your GPS antenna is inside the aluminum case, it is not going to receive very much signal, and the signal it will receive won't be very good quality.

If you want to keep the metal case you could get the external GPS antenna:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EROIUEW

Or, you could buy the plastic case as you mentioned. I have the plastic case for my Stratux and it's definitely a lot sturdier than it looks!

I use the 3.3" suction cup with a small link for my ipad mini and it works pretty well. I originally bought a 6" link but it vibrated quite a bit.

You can use this which I did for a while. Worked great but of course takes time during transition to move.

I'm not sure, but I believe I saw a 2 GB memory card with built in GPS that you can use in the camera you already own. Not sure if that's possible, but that's what I thought I saw.

Edit: A quick google search pulls up nothing, but there are a number of devices for less than $100 which you can buy to gather GPS data. Keep them in your pocket and make sure the times are the same on your camera and the device, and when you get home you can link the data.

PS. Watch out for this one, it doesn't seem to be Mac compatible, despite the company's claims.

I'm using this my axon has a beefy case, this works really well for me, I can take it off the suction cup and attach it to a different mount on my bike. There's virtually no chance of it coming out unintentionally. Quality mount with a price that reflects it. (If you're considering it check around for a better price, it won't be much of a difference but still) I got mine for 45)

You could get a cradle like this that fits into your CD slot: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_wX.Cub0DBYB0X

I'm considering buying one of these.

I've been using one of the ram mount phablet holders w/ suction cup base, this one: http://www.amazon.com/RAM-B-166-UN10U-Suction-Mount-Universal-Phablet/dp/B00DI2W24O

It's a bit bulky, and it's kind of a pain to get the phone in (you'll very likely need to use two hands), but it's rock solid, grips far more securely than anything else I've tried. And it doesn't prevent access to any buttons or ports - power, volume, even the fingerprint reader remains accessible. Could be a decent option for those of us with bluetooth-enabled cars or if you mostly use the 6P's built-in speakerphone.

I got this one and it works extremely well with my OnePlus. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G1L52Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh, I see. I didn't realize that's the one you were talking about. My phone is mounted on a Mountek Ngrove CD Slot Mount. I kinda wish I had gone with the magnetic version. I may still switch to that. It mounts reasonably firmly into the CD slot and doesn't wobble around too much despite having fairly firmly adjusted Koni shocks. It's a really convenient position for the phone for ease of access and not having to look down much. I have a second windshield mount when I'm using my phone as a GPS.

I've always been a fan of the RAM mount:

Amazon Link

This mount has served me well on the past 3 phones I have owned.

I just toss my AMOD AGL3080 gps data logger in one of my back pockets when I ride. Mine takes AAA batteries, so you can throw a fresh set in immediately when the others run out of juice. Battery life is at least 12 hours with the rechargable batteries I use. And it's only $70.

Downsides:

• no cadence or heart rate
  
• no data or map while you ride (I actually prefer this)
  
• no plug-and-play driver/software bundled to view routes and graphs
  
  http://www.amazon.com/AGL3080-Logger-Windows-Software-included/dp/B000WO6HJW/ref=pd_cp_e_0

Is it safe to stick the camera on the black dots? Will it damage the black dots if I try to take the camera off?
I have a leased car, so I'm weary of using the sticky pad. I also got a suction mount like this just in case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FGI9R0
I'm a ibt concerned it might shake too much though.

I use this with my S3 / iPod Touch. Its very sleek. You can play / keep cds in your player even while using it; just don't eject =)

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Mount-Black/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348585914&sr=8-1&keywords=cd+car+mount

I have this one and no regrets. It sits in the CD slot and it is magnetic. This one is the strongest I've had and it holds my phone firmly even with an otter box:

Jivo Technology CDX4 Magnetic CD Car Mount


I also recommend this universal non-magnetic mount:

[Mountek nGroove Grip Universal CD Slot Car Mount for Cell Phones and GPS Devices] (http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_udp_api_7Auiyb6D97EQ7)

I got one o' them CD slot mounts on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G1L52Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can buy Fararday bags on Amazon for $20...this isnt rocket science.

https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Darkness-Non-Window-Faraday-Phones/dp/B01A7MACL2

I just installed this exact thing in my car (well, sort of, I got the version with a full size female USB port instead of the mini male port so I wouldn't be constrained to that one cable)

Anyway! That is not an inline fuse. That is the 12v to 5v step down, and you definitely need a fuse on top of that.

Here's everything I bought (note that you will need the fuse tap that fits your car)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I3P6QQG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K17A2E6

And with that and a 6 inch mini USB cable I had lying around, my G1WC is hard wired to my car!


One more note: all these EDO adapters are miswired. They put garbage on the data lines of USB, so your camera thinks it's connected to a PC. A trimmed piece of tape covering the center pins on the USB cable (there are four pins, 1 2 3 4, you need to cover 2 3) fixes that problem elegantly.

This the finest phone holder made:
http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404748088&sr=8-1&keywords=cell+phone+holder+CD+slot

Any phone, rock solid, all day long.

Here's the first thing you do: buy a Faraday bag and put your phone in that thing whenever you don't want to be bothered. A couple of my friends in netsec swear by them when on vacation.

Buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004G1L52Q problem fixed. It blocks the view of the OEM stereo head but its totally worth it.

I like the Mountek CD Slot phone holder.

I've used it for a couple of years now, and it hasn't messed up the CD player (I tested it just to make sure, not that I listen to CDs...what am I, your Grandma?).

It fits a Nexus 6 in a case with no problem.

Diff drop lowers the front diff which makes the CV axle angle better. If you don’t do the drop you will go through CV axles.

I use one of these in each Cruiser to hold my phone. Just bolt it to your seat using the bolt that’s already there. RAM POD I Universal No-Drill(TM) Vehicle Laptop Mount with 18"" Rigid Aluminum Rod & Single Socket Arm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZOW1U2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F4JXBbW8QAD90

Spare tire mod raises the winch that lifts the spare to allow for more clearance in the rear.

AHC usually takes up space under the hood where the 2nd battery would go. SLEE can help you find something that works, some 100 owners just run 1 really big battery.

Remote starter was on it when we bought it, it’s a drone system that you can activate with your smartphone. Only downside of it is it has a cell phone receiver running all the time which will drain the battery in about a week. If I were buying another system I would not do the cel option.

Mount the camera to this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FGI9R0/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000FGI9R0&linkCode=as2&tag=dacata-20

https://www.doubletakemirror.com/

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/double-take-replacement-adventure-mirror-p

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/double-take-replacement-enduro-mirror-p

with Ram Mount Long Double Socket Arm for 1-Inch Ball Bases

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJA5ZY

or Ram Mount Double Socket Arm for 1-Inch Ball Bases RAM-B-201U

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UGZTQO

and Ram Mount Rail Base with Stainless Steel U-Bolt and 1-Inch Ball for Rails from 0.5 to 1 Inches Diameter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AQV51A

​

Lots of reviews on youtube

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=doubletake+mirror&sp=CAI%253D

It's a RAM mount w/1" ball
RAM Mounts RAM 3.3in. Diameter Suction Cup Twist Lock Base with 1in. Ball RAM-B-224-1U https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008JGZMZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qpcgybJWEC745

And a double standard need ram ball arm

Ram Mount Double Socket Arm for 1-Inch Ball Bases RAM-B-201U https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UGZTQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BqcgybYB85QDM

Th y make shorter and longer arms too

These are the three pieces I bought. You can pick different arm lengths, depending on where you think you will be placing it:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012TWRAO/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UGZTQO/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055PH0XA/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe try a Garmin running watch handlebar mount? It's meant for bicycles, but might work for your use.

Here's your answer

Garmin Forerunner Bicycle Mount Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000VK5BMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FK-ADbD5PVXMC

I use a mount that wedges itself inside the CD player slot

It's a CD phone mount

Mountek nGroove Universal CD Slot Mount for Cell Phones and GPS Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NcqlxbECC096F

My car also has a CD player. It is currently used as a place to mount my mutimedia device that stores literally thousands of times as much music.

Mountek

Goes into your CD slot and is adjustable for a bunch of different phone sizes.

Does this look about right?

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

I understand wanting it to look 100% professional and all, but why not this? https://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372941064&sr=8-1&keywords=mountek

1600 reviews. 4.5 stars. It usually go on sale for $17 sometimes. But if you need it now, it's a bit pricey at $24

Mountek CD slot mount - http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Slot-Mount-Smartphone/dp/B004G1L52Q

Arkon Tablet Mount - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M8ST36

I didn't expect this much interest in it, I'll add more details of the stack up of which pieces to put together in what order.

I've been using this. Works perfectly for me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_dKWHwbRH1Z1XA

I was looking for the same thing, might have to pull the trigger on this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

Non-mobile: CD Player phone mount

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

I use this one in my NC currently:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G1L52Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use the Mountek car dock. It had a spring loaded grip and sits right in the slot for a CD player you're probably trying to replace. Only ever fell out when it wasn't used properly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004G1L52Q?cache=85c3d13cb1756205f398088fb291a58b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412217946&sr=8-14#ref=mp_s_a_1_14

I also have this little suction cup thing I got from ThinkGeek, but it really only sticks to glass. They say it works with all phones, but unless you're using an iPhone you need a smooth case.