Reddit mentions: The best gun maintenance products

There's a perfectly serviceable FAQ here which SHOULD answer the mail here, but for some reason, despite the frequency of newbie posts, no one on the mod team has increased the font size of that link on the sidebar SO PEOPLE CAN ACTUALLY SEE IT AND READ IT (Seriously mods, get with it). I'll make a "Teal Deer" version even though I oughta know better by now.

1. I don't see any reloading manuals on that list. Buy at least two reloading manuals and read them. Did you read them? Yes? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? LiarGood. You still sure about this? Yes? Ok, now you may go buy your equipment. Notice how you bought and studied some manuals and then went to buy stuff? Ok, just checking.
   
   In addition to the manuals there's some good Youtube videos out there you can watch to see what the books are trying to explain, but realize some people have better habits than others. Some guys do some pretty trick shit, but that's for advanced users only; fun to watch, but not necessarily a "try this at home" type of thing.
   
   
2. If you're doing this for the money, most return on investment will be with the "uncommon" calibers, .30 carbine paid off my Lee Challenger setup after 700ish rounds. If you want to make pet hunting loads for each of your rifles you'll save dollars per round off premium .308 and .30-06 too. Conversely, it's hard to make a return on 9mm until you've bought components in bulk. Bulk in this case is defined as a couple thousand projectiles and multiple 8-pound cannisters of powder. Here's a good source for price comparison if you need some hard numbers to convince your wife to let you spend save money on this new wallet draining endeavor.
   
   
3. Opinions will vary wildly, but if you're dead set on starting but really aren't sure if you'll stick with it, get a quality single stage press. Scour your favorite for-sale-by-owner websites for used tools, and keep an eye out for deals on Amazon. If you don't stick with the hobby, a quality single stage will be easiest to get most of your money back on when you sell it on ebay or RapelistCraigslist. If you like it, a quality single stage will always come in handy when you make special pet loads for accuracy, even if you upgrade to a progressive some day.
   
   If you're plan to load for bulk, which I'm guessing is your case because you're looking to do 9mm, a turret/progressive press hybrid like the Lee Classic Turret Press, where you can take the indexing rod out and use it as a single stage if need be, might be a much better choice for you. You can start out learning in single stage mode and add the indexing rod later. Single stage and 9mm is TEDIOUS (Ask me how I know...I own a Challenger like the one you have listed) Opinions on progressive presses vary, and merely by mentioning the Lee I fully expect to receive at least a half dozen unsolicited opinions replies on the matter. A progressive is pretty much mandatory if your primary purpose is to chase savings by loading pistol calibers or .223 in bulk.
   
   Here's my recommended list of stuff; I recommend NOT buying the Challenger KIT, because most of the stuff you'll want to upgrade later or will find you'll never use it. Take the money you're saving by not buying the kit and get the turret press I mentioned above instead. You'll spend a little bit more on certain items by going a la carte because there are a few places where not skimping gets you way more value. Buy the dies from whoever you want, quality level is up to you. For plinking purposes, and even most special tuned loads, Lee is just fine.
   
   Buy the press and one or two calibers of dies, then buy a good digital scale, a good chamfer and deburring tool (not that shitty Lee abomination. Seriously, fuck that thing. Your hands will thank you), a cutter (plus associated gauge and shell holder for a drill), a powder funnel, a puller for when you inevitably dick it up, and a nice set of calipers and you're off to a solid start for under $350.
   
   We could also get WAY into tumblers and the benefits of wet vs dry, but I'll leave some leftovers for others to talk about.

So this review on Amazon is what my buying guide will consist of. My apologies for formatting, I am on mobile.

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I'm new to reloading, but I shoot a lot so instead of doing what every beginner should and buy a single stage press I saved up a little and got the AP press due to the fact I knew I would use it a lot. But after it came I quickly realized it was far more technical than I expected. I found out there were a lot of parts I still needed and a lot more money that still needed to be spent. I was fine with it bet I knew I would have to save up for a little bit to get it all. But after about 100 hours of reloading YouTube videos and four months I was able to actually start reloading. Wishing I had a guide right off the bat to tell me what I need and why I ended up making one for any other new beginner. So here it is.


Disclaimer: Do not follow my advice blindly, do your research on each piece of equipment. The prices I have stated are not set in stone, they were what I spent. I would advise you to shop around to get the best deals
--------------------------------------------------
What you still need:

--Hornady Lock N Load Auto-Progressive Reloading Press
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD01NS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$462.64
Notes: Does not have to be this press

--Hornady Lock N Load Ap & Projector Shell Plate
http://www.hornady.com/store/Choose-Shell-Plate-by-Number/
$41.33
Notes: Each shell plate is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct plate for the caliber you are reloading. Here is the guide http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/shell_holder.pdf

--Hornady Shell Holder
http://www.hornady.com/store/Choose-Shell-Holder-by-Number/
$5.00
Notes: Each shell holder is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct holder for the caliber you are reloading. Although RCBS makes a similar looking holder, it will NOT fit in the Hornady setup. Here is the guide http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/shell_holder.pdf

--Reloading Dies
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD6PO2/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$43.89
Notes: All reloading dies from all companies are universal to each other's presses. So you don't have to stick to Hornadys dies (I do because I like them)

--Digital Scale
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$29.14
Notes: Digital scales are a little more expensive bet worth it for the time you save

--Digital Caliper
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JFMIO/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$10.60
Notes: Digital calipers are convenient for speed but if money is tight you can go traditional

--Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Cleaner-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B000LC9YM2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375560230&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+gun+cleaner
$13.28
Notes: Used when you put the press together and clean all the parts

--Hornady One Shot Spray Case Lube
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Spray-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B0001NA29U/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375560743&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+case+lube
$13.44
Notes: This or any case lube is an absolute need or your rounds will get stuck in the die. This one is cool because you don't have to wipe it off after you deprime and resize so if you have an AP bench like mine you can just keep going.

--Case Trimmer
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-50140-Camlock-Case-Trimmer/dp/B000PD6QJ6/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561942&sr=1-7&keywords=case+trimmer
$88.99
Notes: This will trim the case down to size. Needed because after firing the case expands

--Cartridge Reloading Guide
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Edition-Handbook-Cartridge-Reloading/dp/B00A95QWGM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375563579&sr=8-2&keywords=Reloading+guide
$39.80
Notes: Tells you the specifics of each round. There is a different manual for each projectile. So if you use Hornady bullets you will use their guide, RCBS you you'd use theirs, etc.
----------------------------------------------------
What you need to clean the brass:

--Case Tumbler
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Case-Tumbler-110-Volt/dp/B000PD1XE4/ref=sr_1_17?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375559938&sr=1-17&keywords=media+tumbler
$83.58
Used to remove the carbon from the rounds. I advise not to deprime before use because the media will get stuck in the primer hole.

--Tumbling Media
http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-287178-Brass-Cleaning/dp/B001GX8DS6/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561385&sr=1-4&keywords=tumbling+media
$20.10
The corn cob media is a little more fine grain and less likely to get stuck

--Metal Polish
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-9993-Case-Polish/dp/B002L9D8VQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561809&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+metal+polish
$14.17
You would put this in the tumbler with the rounds to give them a nice polish
--------------------------------------------------------------
What I would recommend:

--Bullet Puller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17.15
Used when you mess up a round, it pulls the projectile out

--Primer Turning Plate
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPL80Q/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17.56
used to make sure the primers are set the right way before you put them in the primer tube

--Universal Ammo Reloading Tray
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-1536-480040-Universal-Loading/dp/B000GU8WU4/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1375559333&sr=8-3-fkmr2&keywords=universal+ammo+reloading+tray
$11.38
Used to hold your rounds for inspection, and helps with precision loading powder

--Case Prep Tool
http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Universal-Case-Prep-Accessory/dp/B0034LAVUG/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375562159&sr=1-2&keywords=case+prep+tool
$55.79
This is used after depriming and trimming to make sure all the holes are clean and free of debris

--Stuck Case Remover
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6ZJQ6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$18.99
Used in case you get a round stuck in the die

--Hornady Micrometer Rifle Lock N Load Powder Measure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1WOJ2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$27.99
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for rifle calibers

--Hornady Micrometer Pistol Lock N Load Powder Measure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPR300/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$39.89
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for pistol calibers

--Powder Cop
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003D6ZLXE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$30.57
Used to make sure you don't put more powder in than you should

--Hornady Lock N Load Die Bushing 10 Pack
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Bushing-Pack/dp/B00162OLTW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375563887&sr=8-1&keywords=Hornady+AP+die+bushing
$42.22
Would recommend if you are reloading multiple calibers, it makes change over much faster.
---------------------------------------------------

What you need for precision loading:

--Hornady Lock N Load Ammo Concentricity Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KZ3NNK/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$99.99
Only needed for precision reloading

--Powder Funnel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD1XI0/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$5.78
Used for more of an exact measurement

--Hornady Microjust Seating Stem
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GU9VU4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$24.99
Used to get an exact seating depth with the projectile
-----------------------------
I hope this helps! I will be making some tutorial videos soon and will post a link here.

The kit works, in that you can make quality reloads with it. There are better components but at least you can find out if you enjoy the hobby before sinking too far in. If I were you I would buy the other kit.

With the single stage I found myself working in large batches. I would size and deprime everything that I had in that caliber. Then I would tumble. Next expand the case mouth of everything I had clean. With the hand primer you can sit in a comfortable chair priming and not be at the bench the whole time. I would prime a couple of hundred cases at a time and store them until I was ready to load.

The press is good quality and will last you a long time. If you want to churn out large amounts of ammo you will be upgrading. However, a single stage press is always handy to have around.

The scale is fine. I prefer a digital but that is just me.

The powder measure is the weakest point of the Lee kit. It is stiff and leaks if you are using a fine powder. AA#5 leaked right around the barrel on mine. It did not measure 700X well at all but that was more of a powder size issue. If you are using sphereical powder like CFEpistol or Win231 it meters fine. It was the first part I upgraded. A metal powder dispenser like the hornady is more pleasurable to use and does not leak like the Lee.

The case prep stuff works but if you start loading a lot of rifle rounds you will want to get a better deburring tool quickly.

I'm not sure if this comes with the Lee manual or not. That and the powder funnel are the two parts of my kit I still have. There is a lot of Lee advertising in the manual but there is lots of load data with different powders and projectile types.

If you want to see if you enjoy reloading it is a good place to start.

Here's my 2 cents.

• Don't get the kinetic bullet pullet. They are messy and break easily. Look at the Hornady Cam-Lock Bullet Puller and associated collet for your caliber. Works super well.
  
  
• With the Lee Gauge/Holder thing for case trimming. Stick that sucker in a drill (I use a drill press). I believe you will need this piece as well to hold the gauge.
  
  
• Drop the digital scale. The kit comes with a balance beam scale that's probably more accurate and doesn't require a warm up time. It's also not sensitive to what type of lighting you use.
  
  
• Highly recommend the Hornady Comparator for your calipers. It makes measuring the round much more accurate. You'll probably also want the OAL Gauge down the road.
  
  
• The Chronograph is nice but you won't need it until after you have worked up your load. Then you'll shoot a 10 shot string over it and not touch it again. It might be better to leave that for a later purchase or see if you can borrow one for a day once you're ready.
  
  
• I have a RCBS Rock Chucker and I converted it with the Hornady Lock-N-Load Bushings and it's awesome. I'm not sure if the lee can do that but it would be a nice addon.
  
  
• Buy a powder trickler. It will keep you sane and save you time until you can buy a automated trickler. It's big $$ but ultimately worth it.
  
  Otherwise good luck. Your first load will be scary but once you get the hang of it you'll be amazed at the accuracy you can achieve. Also the self reliance part is cool too!
  
  EDIT: If you're looking at a tumbler get the stainless steel kind. WAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY better than anything else. So good that I've switched to bring my brass to a buddy who has one instead of doing it in my media tumbler.
  

•Jennings JSVG-20 Compact Digital Jewelry Scale.

If you can, save for an RCBS chargemaster

•RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure

Again - get a chargemaster


•Reloading Manual is this manual relevant to reloading for M1 Garand?

Your link doesn't take me anywhere for the manual - I like Nosler and Hornady manuals. I do not like the Barnes manual. I do like the Barnes bullets which is the only reason I have the manual


•RCBS 90200 Hand Priming Tool

I prefer Lyman's hand priming too. I like Lee's better than RCBS's but the Lyman works best for me


•RCBS Fold-Up Hex Key Set do I really need this?

You will need an allen wrench set but you can get one at an auto parts store or hardware store. I like the ones that have the ball end to allow you to use at an angle


•RCBS Universal Case Loading Block

Get two


•RCBS Case Lube Kit, lube, pad & brushes

I like Hornady Unique case lube in the tub but it's all I've ever used. It doesn't take much and one tub lasts forever.


•RCBS Powder Funnel, .22-.50 Caliber

Yes - get this


•[Lyman Case Prep Multi Tool](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MCMCYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h71FAbFPYHG1N

I don't care for this tool. Lyman makes individual tools called primer pocket uniformer (used after every firing) and flash hole cleaner (only needs to be used once)


•RCBS .30-06 Springfield SB T/C Die Set

Yup - Die set box tells you which shell holder you need - I like this


•RCBS 9203 #3 Shell Holder got this right?

Yup


•EAGems Digital Caliper, in SAE/Metric, 6 inch/150mm. Again, would like digital, opinions on accuracy?

Whatever caliper you can find at a reasonable price - digital is much quicker for me to read


•RCBS 9440 Bullet Puller without Collet

I have a cheap one from Cabelas that came with three different collets


•[RCBS 30/7.35 Bullet Puller Collet] - see above


•Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler

I have a friend that bought three different ones as they all shook themselves apart - I bought a Dillon with a lifetime warranty


•Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler
•Frankford Arsenal 887335 Arsenal Brass Polish. 8 Oz. - I've had good luck with fiberglass boat polish poured right in to the walnut shell media

Good luck and have fun

I am pretty much in the exact same situation as you. I have been researching moderately as we are hoping to start this winter. I just spent last weekend shooting with a guy who has been reloading for 40+ years.

He told me to first get a handbook. He recommended the two he had; Lyman 49th edition reloading handbook and the Hornady Handbook Of Cartridge Reloading. He said either is a good first choice, but mentioned Lyman's first, so that is the one I am getting.

The auto-progressive is what I have heard is the best setup for producing more ammo in various calibers. Usually more expensive from what I understand but by splitting it 3 ways should allow for you guys to handle it.

As far as everything else goes, I would consult the handbook. The handbook that you all purchase, you all read, and all try to fully understand front to back. Serious business when things go boom. Jokes aside, I am sure you are taking this seriously, but when dealing with explosive materials and things that can kill you, you have to trust your friend in making them as well if you are all splitting costs/liability.

On a side note - things that we have talked about in my group is a buyout option on the gear, you just never know when people end up having to move away, get married and their SO puts their balls in a vice and forces them to start chipping away at their collection/equipment. Or maybe they just don't have the time anymore.

Other things we have discussed is associating labor hours with ammo payout. If someone cant make it a few nights to help out, are they entitled to an equal 1/3^rd ?

Again, I don't reload, just sharing the advice I was given. I am sure utilizing r/reloading is part of your research, it's one of the reasons I subscribed.

Sorry for the length. Hope this helped.

Good luck man, and have fun!

The last thing he told me was "You're not going to save any money at all but going to shoot a lot more!"

TLDR: Get a good handbook.

Frankford Arsenal powder trickler. Compact, nice heavy base for stability, even flow. I also have an RCBS trickler and hate it. It's not as stable and the dispensing arm thingy is a weird two piece design that never seem to flow well for me.
GemPro 250 digital scale. Do not waste your money on cheaper options. I don't have experience with the chargemaster type of scale. I like to do things manually.
Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Best stuff there is. Works amazingly well. I also keep a lanolin/alcohol spray lube around for doing large batch work, but Imperial Sizing Wax does a better job.
Hornady Bullet Comparator set. You don't mention what cartridges you're reloading. THIS KIT DOES NOT INCLUDE 6.5mm. There's a 14 insert kit that includes more, or you can buy just the few inserts you need.
Frankford Arsenal bullet puller. I buy what's cheap. These don't last forever. All the hammering eventually cracks the plastic. I've tried several brands and they all break eventually. I usually keep two on hand.


So that covers what you already know you need. Here are some more recommendations.

Hornady 9th Edition. I use this more than all my other manuals combined. I shoot a lot of Hornady bullets, though. If you already have a favorite bullet brand, you should buy that brand's manual.

Lyman Shooters Check Weights. I use these every single time I reload. I like knowing that my scale isn't lying to me. Digital scales can be finicky sometimes! These are worth every penny.

Hornady Headspace Comparator set. This is a lot like the bullet comparator set, except that it measure to the shoulder of the case instead of the ogive of the bullet. If you're planning on monitoring the amount you're bumping your shoulders during resizing, this is what you need.

Lyman Case Prep Multi-Tool. The chamfer tool that came with your kit will do the job, but this Lyman multi tool is my preferred method. It also comes with primer pocket scrapers that will be useful, and primer pocket reamers you should throw away and never use.

RCBS Uniflow Powder Baffle. This will help your uniflow powder measure throw more consistent charges.

RCBS Advanced Powder Measure Stand. If you're going to do a permanent installation of your powder measure on your bench, you will want this stand. Its price is absurd, but it's a great stand.

RCBS Universal case loading block. Your kit came with one, but you need at least one more.

What is your plan for cleaning brass? Wet tumbling with steel pins is the way to go. I have the Frankford Arsenal unit. It's huge and noisy. If I had it to do over I would purchase the dual drum tumbler from Harbor Freight and buy steel pins from Amazon.

Redding dies don't come with shellholders. Did you remember to get one?

What is your plan for case trimming? You don't mention what you're reloading. The cheapest option, which is actually my preferred method, is the Lee case length gauge and shellholders with their cutter and lock studs.

There are some additional case prep tools, but they would depend on what you're doing. If you are dealing with brass that has military crimps, you'll need tools to deal with that. There are primer pocket brushes, primer pocket uniformers, flash hole deburring tools, and a million other little things.

That's all that's coming to mind right now. I'm sure I missed some stuff.

I'm currently making 300blk out of 223 cases and just loading standard plinking rounds. I'm going for lost cost per round (CPR) that I can do.

Whatever press you very will typically work with any dies. I use a Lee single stage press and Lee dies, personally. I like doing steps in bulk.

Steps:

1. Look at all my 223 brass and pick out as many lake city brass as I want to covert.
   
2. Use a harbor freight 2in mini cut saw and some type of jig (I made one myself, but there are better ones on Amazon) to cut it to the right length.
   
3. Decap and resize using the decap/resizing die.
   
4. Depending on the trimmer you will either trim the case to length before priming, or you can prime first. I use a Lyman Ezee Trim and bought the extra 300blk pilot for it since I also do 223 and plan on 308. BUT I'd personally say to get the world's finest trimmer 2 of you plan to do bulk as well as other calibers. I was enough money on trim serious that failed that I could have just bought the world's finest and been good. If you don't plan on bulk and want to save some $$ the Lyman is fine. If you use the Lyman you need to prime after trimming. World's finest you can prime whenever. With the Lyman you may need to resize again if you use a hand drill to help with the trimming. Sometimes mine opens the case mouth a bit and causes b to not seat correctly.
   
5. Trim or prime after doing whatever you didn't do in the last step.
   
6. Find what powder and load you want. I use a Lee perfect powder measure. Others may be better. Mine gunks up after 100 rings and I wind up needing to clean the internals of I leave pretty in it overnight because they make the lever get hard to move. It also spills a little powder out the side in mine. This may not be the case with others.
   
7. Inspect that there is power in every case. Just put them all in a holder and use a flashlight to check.
   
8. Seat bullet to desired length with seating die.
   
9. Crimp bullet if using in a magazine feed rifle. This is personal choice for people. I like to do it this way. Others may not. If you are going for plinking amp it usually won't matter either way. Precision ammo you will have to test with and without to see if one gives better accuracy.
   
10. Shoot and test it. Put 3-5 round s in a mag (if shooting semi-auto) and shoot all 3-5. See if it cycles reliably and kicks the bolt back after the last round. You can technically do this with 2 rounds in a mag, but I like to test to make sure they feed in the mag right as well.

This kit has all the tools (except for a rubber mallet) that you need to reload 9mm. It comes in other calibers as well.

The only other items you need to reload are the consumables: powder, bullets, primers, and some sort of lube. The kit is complete as far as actual tools required goes. I have that kit in .38 special, and it comes in a hard plastic case that is probably 5 inches long by 3 inches wide by 2 inches thick. It's compact and light.

That method works but is slow. If you want something that is a little faster, then you want the hand press kit. That press is not meant to be mounted to a table or anything. It is hand-held. The only things you need that are not a part of that kit are the consumables and a die set in whatever caliber you are reloading. So it's a little bulkier but not too bad, and it's also faster and easier. Edit: This kit also needs some method of measuring the powder. The Lee Loader comes with a calibrated scoop, but this kit doesn't. You will either need a scale, or a set of calibrated scoops. Those scoops work well and are on Amazon for $10.99.

Ammo is fairly plentiful, but it is nice to reload if for no other reason than to save money. In that scenario, I would recommend having a traditional table mounted press and all of the tools. That's quick, easy, and effective. If you want, you can also get one of those little Lee Loader kits in your chosen caliber because they are cheap enough that you can do that even if you don't use it much. That's what I've done. I have a normal reloading setup plus the little Lee Loader kit, and I think I am in pretty good shape.

Looks great! What is the barrel length and gas system length you used? Any other specs you care to show off?

As for critiques, if you have the space and cash get a tipton single piece gun rod or something of the like (brass screw togethers can become marred after some use resulting in bulges where the rods connect potentially interfering with the rifling) I've had my tipton rod for years with no issues but have gone through 2 sets of brass rods and one set of aluminum ones (they work pretty great for pistols though) and again thats after a lot of use and probably some abuse

Or an Otis system they also make an all inclusive set which includes a travel kit with it definitely pricey but something to look into, combining that with a single piece rod has been the main stay for my cleaning needs and takes care of all my firearms and calibers

Also a bore snake helps a great deal and works well but is caliber specific


As for the rifle it looks awesome!

This totally will be accurate enough (I don't have this particular model) but it weighs each load so you can see what you're charging before you actually do - but can potentially slow you down as it weighs each load while dispensing (still worth it though and faster than a balance scale)

Also if you're looking for tips - if you're shooting 9mm use a 147gr bullet if you can or at least anything heavier than 115gr, the recoil will be more "back and towards you" rather than upwards - x-treme bullets are pretty great and one of the more inexpensive options but if you can find pulled bullets (not necessarily ideal but good enough for practice at least) they will be even cheaper - ammoseek has parameters you can set for reloading supplies. You'll also need a hand priming tool (wait for a sale, it does come down in price) - or a table top version, and a press of some kind (don't be afraid to look for used to save money, I'm rocking an RCBS thats older than I am but works great and am currently doing 4000 556 loads through it. - also consider what kind of brass you're going to be reloading, if its military crimped you're going to need either a primer pocket swagger or a cutter to chamfer the primer pocket. There are also case prep machines that are electric and have these tools as well as others especially if you're going to be doing a lot of rifle rounds. Buy a reloading manual thats encompassing, you can check used bookstores - you can also find load data online but that can be hit or miss.

You'll find you won't save any money but will be able to shoot more for the same amount - more bang for your buck.

It does add up quick but it will stabilize. I'm very new to this myself and after getting little things like a kinetic bullet puller you eventually get all the things you need. By the way, I don't bother with the collets that came with it, I just use the appropriate shell plate for the cartridge.

I'm loading three cartridges now (.270 Win, .223 and .45 ACP) and now only need primers, powder and projectiles to reload. To start loading a new cartridge, I'd also need dies, shell plates (if I don't already have it in a kit), and the three Ps.


Other things on my wish list are a powered case prep station (my hands wear out when dealing with crimped primers) and I see why higher end presses have a handle bar instead of the palm ball.

Anyway, sorry to ramble there, it sure feels good to make your first hand load, and feels even better to shoot. Congrats!

first of all

Secondly, I assume you mean this one, the lee cast iron turret is a great press and it will work for most applications, If you need to do things not involving the turret (like decapping of w/e) you can just pull the index rod out(it just pops out when you take the dies out) and it won't spin anymore.

For tumbler I can say wet tumbling is best but not feasable for everyone and walnut tumbling works fine. The frankfort arsenal kit is good choice.

Lee dies and hand trimmers are cheap and work good too. I wouldn't worry about a trimmer for 40 or 9 but get one for sure for 223 and 30-06. cutter + Insert

there's some more basics like decent case lube and components themselves but it's a step in the right direction.

EDIT
***
additional recommended things would be a kinetic bullet puller, digital scale, and calipers.

I would recommend upgrading to a nice digital scale, it will make things easier.

Maybe get a few of these if you haven't yet thought about how you're going to store your loaded ammo.

I have that same tumbler, works great. I would also suggest a separator for afterwords. Some brass polish is nice too.

I think that kit comes with a hand trimmer, but I would recommend a larger one, your hands will thank you.

I went with a Lyman kit for my starter set, and while it's a lot more expensive than yours, I've been very pleased with it.

When you start doing 223 you'll also want a case length trimmer. This one works pretty well for me.

I would start with the Lyman 49th Edition and The ABCs of Reloading manuals. They give you a detailed break down of the reloading process and talk about different types of equipment. After you've read the manuals I recommend really thinking about if you are a good fit for reloading. While reloading can be a very rewarding hobby, it is a very serious hobby. You can end up severely hurt or even killed if you make a mistake. Being able to concentrate for long periods and be very exacting in the details are important. Not trying to scare you off, just reminding you that bullets are little explosions going off in your hands/near your face. Mistakes can turn a little explosion into a big one.

I also made a post about equipment here, but it isn't a replacement for a good manual.

Why are you interested in reloading? Looking to save money? Increase accuracy? Just because it looks interesting? Either way I recommend you read this post on the economics of reloading.

What are you looking to reload? Rifle? Pistol? Shotgun? What are your time, space, and budget constraints? Knowing this we can help you pick equipment to fit your needs. Overall the basics are:

Manual
Scale
Calipers
Press
Dies(Sizing/Decap, Expanding, Seating)
Shell Plate
and probably a chamfer/deburr tool

There are different levels of each of these so knowing what your requirements are will help determine which level you should be looking at.

So, steel care is a two part process - sealing and maintaining. :)

Sealing:

First off, remove all the oil, dirt, and other chemicals from the metal. The easiest way to do this is brake cleaner fluid. If you've never worked with this before - don't do it in your tub or sink, it will remove everything, including the cosmetic liners on those surfaces. :p

Second - coat the entire metal in your sealing material. Here is a comprehensive comparison of various metal care products, but the short version is: Use WD-40 Specialist: Silicone.

Because we beat on our armor, that silicone seal will get chipped and removed in places. So the second step.

Maintaining:

After each practice, wipe your armor down with a silicone impregnated rag. These vary in quality a LOT. I use this one.

About once every 6-9 months, you'll want to completely redo your sealing process as above. Exactly how often depends on how often you're using your stuff and what kind of climate you live in.

Please, for the love of god, don't listen to the people who advocate olive oil or other "period" techniques. Firstly - the era of modern material sciences can do a lot better than the period techniques did and secondly - oils go rancid. 4 times now, I've been handed a piece of steel to inspect that was so rancid smelling I had to ask the fighter to clean it before letting it touch other people's garb.

Indeed!

On this turret, all you have to do to make it a single-stage is pull off the turret head (lift up and twist) and then pull out the spiral-twisted auto advance bar in the center (it just sits there and is held in place by the turret.

Lock the turret back on and now you just change stations manually.

To go back to auto-advance, all you have to do is drop that auto-advance bar back in and away you go. No tools, maybe 5 seconds.

If you're ready for a bit of a steeper learning curve, you could dive in to the progressive, but if you don't have a reloading buddy to help you get set up, dialed in, and learn how to clear malfunctions, I'd not recommend it for a first-timer. Once you have the hang of things though, it's like hopping in a sports car after driving a Ford Festiva your whole life.


Now with a cool instructional video. This guy's whole channel is great for reloaders. He apparently has every press known to man and knows them all inside and out.

1. higher weight bullets will give a slight better performance for wind but not worth it for plinking ammo.
   
   
2. I dont know, i just use enough powder that cycles the system successfully.
   
   
3. YES I use a lee hand stimmer with a cutter and stud in a drill.
   
   
4. for 223 it do not think the price of brass is worth spending all the time to anneal.
   
   

I've got a Hoppe's 9 silicone cloth I wipe mine down with occasionally. It's a cloth with some type of silicone oil infused. It takes the schmuck off the blade from tape and stuff and leaves a little silicone oil coating to protect it from corrosion. Typically these are meant for guns but I use it in my knives too. It's a quick easy way to clean them up and protect them. You can get them at Walmart or any sporting good type store usually for around $5-6. Hoppe's 9 Silicone Cloth

Bummer that OP deleted all their comments. Wonder what happened. I'mma not let what I wrote go to waste.

> Cleaning kits are usually separated into rifle, pistol, and shotgun kits. For rifles, pistols, and shotguns, there are different bore sizes. A "22 cal" bore brush is much too small for 30 cal rifle. There are some universal kits, like these -> Amazon Link, Amazon Link, but they might not have the right bits for larger bore handguns.
>
> If he is getting that handgun for home defense, a quick access safe might not be a bad idea, specially if kids or untrusted adults are around -> Costco Link. Preferable something that can be mounted/cabled into a nightstand, desk, or bed frame so it's not as easy for any potential robbers to run away with as easily.
>
> Or you can go the easy route and get him a gift card to cabela's or some other outdoors/hunting good store.

He needs, yes. The Lee Challenger kit is around $99 on Amazon, and that has everything he'll need to get started except for: Bullets, Primers, Powder and Brass and DIES for 7.62x54r (another $30-$40)

Now, he'll want a digital scale, a case trimmer, and a tumbler to get his brass clean and pretty. That all can be added on, and most likely, be purchased in addition to the press kit for about $200.

Here's a list of things he'll want:

Lee Challenger Reloading Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady Reloading Manual (So he doesn’t blow himself up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MAUZ71V/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Calipers (So he doesn’t blow his gun up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

7.62x54r Reloading Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-7-62X54R-Pacesetter-Dies/dp/B00162UGUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511562718&sr=8-1&keywords=7.62x54r+dies

Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler (To make clean-shiny brass)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MYGLJC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case Tumbling Media
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQRGF2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCBS Universal Case Loading Block
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RA5DQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady One-Shot Case Lube https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001NA29U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Guardians of the Galaxy Soundtrack (Because listening to good music scientifically makes better bullets)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LICGSFU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

+1 on the Lyman 49th. A lot of people use different presses and like anything else out there, people have good and bad experiences with them. The balance with presses is how much you shoot, and how much you want to spend. If you shoot 100's of rounds a month, you might want to think about spending a little more and getting a progressive. If you shoot 50 - 100 rds a month you can probably get by with a single stage. I'm right in the middle and I bought the Lee Classic Turret. I like it because I can have it auto index and load quicker for pistol rounds but take the indexing rod out and have a single stage if I want to load rifle some day. A lot of good people on this sub that are willing to give good advice.

If you get a progressive or a turret that's a 4 hole press, I recommend getting 3 die sets and using a powder cop die to help you watch your powder.

Good luck and welcome to the club!

> https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Challenger/dp/B003ISVWC6

yes. i also got mine from amazon.

the parts that need improvement are discussed in the customer reviews near the bottom of the page. powder dispenser and scale are the items i remember getting lukewarm reviews. those parts are cheap to upgrade. so no worry.


you need dies for the caliber that you are reloading.

for some reason i have 2 sets of .223 dies. i know i purchased one, i'm not sure if the other came with the kit.

i purchased a 2" bench top cut off saw [$32]

a jig to cut my cases [$13] 300blk

a case length guage [$10] 300blk

ammo loading tray [$7]

dies [$39] for each caliber

digital caliper [$16]

frankford scale [$32]

frankford bullet puller [$16]

tumber kit [$75]

i spent a good month or so on /r/reloading before i actually purchased anything.

i asked questions and made a shopping list.

those guys are very helpful

research what you actually need for the caliber / bullet grain you want to reload before you buy anything.

double and triple check what powder you need as well. it could save your life.


i kinda over did it with supplies

haven't opened half the boxes yet.

You may want to look into a turret style as it'll make things easier and faster. Like the Redding T7

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VNO2QO/

Also you may want to get a Frankford Arsenal digital scale it's 1/3 the price and has better reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BDOHNA/

I'd go with the Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler it's easier, holds more and the brass is cleaner. Also no dust.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HTN4R6O/

Also get the Lyman kinetic bullet puller it's got a nice soft handle the collet puller is nice if you have a lot of them to do.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037N6IXA/

And don't forget a case gauge for each caliber

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001QD9XQ2/

Start with this: http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417275692&sr=8-1&keywords=lyman+reloading+manual

There are other reloading manuals, but I've found the Lyman to be the most newb friendly. It also remains a valuable resource as you gain experience.

You're best bet for a cleaning kit is to get one of the deluxe versions. They only cost ten bucks more but you're good for this and future purchases.

http://www.cabelas.ca/product/91581/winchester-42-piece-deluxe-universal-gun-cleaning-kit

https://www.amazon.ca/Hoppes-No-Universal-Cleaning-Accessory/dp/B001HBHNM4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502372710&sr=8-3&keywords=deluxe+rifle+cleaning+kit

Hard case protects a bit better but soft is fine to.

Patches come with the kit. Unless you're using Otis or some other brand that requires special patches get what ever is one sale. They're all the same.

You'll usually get a small bottle of oil with the kit. 3in1, Hoppe's, or Remington are all fine. The expensive stuff doesn't really do much other than waste your money.

Slings are for carrying your gun in the bush. At the range they generally want you to move you gun while cased. Get a piece of string and test what looks/feels right. Most slings will come with 6" of adjustment. You don't want it to be overly long that the excess flops about but to short isn't handy either. Measure the interior dimension of your sling swivels so you get the right width. A cheap nylon one will work the same as a hand tooled leather one but leave you more money for ammo.

Get a silicone gun & reel cloth for wiping your gun down before you put it in the safe.

that should be about it to get you started. have fun

I like the Lyman manual for the sheer number of bullet styles and, in general quality of information. That's what I typically suggest a "new" reloader. Other than that, I suggest the manual for the bullet mfg that you see yourself shooting a bunch of. If you shoot speer, get the speer, hornady, get the hornady, etc.

As for a digital scale, they go from super cheap to sky's the limit. I got a Gempro250 some three years ago, prior to that, used a PACT. Both are good, but that damn Gempro is $50 more on Amazon than when I got mine (I paid $143 on April 23, 2015, hey forgot to have a birthday for it...). Brownells has the Gempro250 for $130ish, but with the code MDX that knocks $10 off the scale and free shipping to boot. The calibers you list don't seem to strike me as the precision type, so a $130 scale might be a bit excessive.

I've heard decent things about the Frankfort Arsenal Scale, seen a bunch of people use them, but I cannot personally vouch for the product. I have used a bunch of the Caldwell/Frankfort Arsenal/Battenfield products and have found all of them of good quality and value.

I recently invested in a Frankfort arsenal tumbler, but before that I used an old rock polisher to wet tumble. You can also use an old jug or 5 gallon bucket with a good seal to do the same thing. They all come out about the same, but I was tired of waiting for brass to dry since I am very impatient person lol. If you’re going to wet tumble I used a small splash of dawn dish soap and a 9mm case of lemi shine. If I used the rock tumbler I would let it go for about an hour, switch the water, and then do another hour. If I was doing it by hand with a 5gal bucket or an old jug I would I would do it on and off while watching tv and would switch the water once or twice once I could see it was really dirty. You can kinda tell when the brass is clean enough for your liking. Since I don’t pay for electricity, I would put a large box fan in front of it to help the drying process.

I'm more a quantity than quality drinker, so after trying pretty much everything, i prefer;

http://www.amazon.com/Dilmah-Ceylon-Loose-4-41-Ounce-Boxes/dp/B00112GBO0

I sweeten each gallon with a 1/8 level teaspoon of pure sucralose:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M01WP4 (0.011g = 1g Splenda = 5g(teaspoon) of cane sugar)

those Dilmah vacuum packed fannings are very potent, so you only need 1g:8oz cup. $55 seems like a lot to spend, but when you consider I make 200-300 gallons per year, that $55 bag of powder will last me 6 years, so it's well worth it. if measuring 1/8 teaspoons of precious powder makes you nervous, it pays to invest in special spoons; i use the 7cc one per gallon;

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N8OIE8

I recently got into reloading as well. As for a reasonable kit to learn on, I got the Lee Precision Classic Turret Press Kit and definitely recommend it. It has everything you need to start reloading and at a much cheaper price than the competitors. Don't get me wrong, there are better quality presses out there as stated above, but I think the Lee press has tremendous value. All you need in addition to this press is a set of dies and your components.

I reload 9mm, 223, and 308. While I don't save much (if any money) from reloading versus buying cheap ammo, I get much higher quality with reloading. I'm reloading 9 for about 17cpr, 223 for 22cpr, and 308 for 47cpr for the raw materials. You'll be saving more money next year because you won't have to pay the background check fee every time you want ammo.

Have fun!

I like the magpul flip up sites.

https://www.magpul.com/firearms-accessories/sights/see-all

A cheap magwell might be nice to see how you like them:

https://armaspec.com/product/magwell-grip/

Lancer mags are nice:

https://lancer-systems.com/awc/advanced-warfighter-magazines/

A red dot is a must have, lots of options and budget ranges, so pick your flavor.

A good trigger is nice, no idea what kind of trigger you like, but the obvious go to are the geissele:

https://geissele.com/rifle-parts/lower-parts/triggers.html

I've become a fan of the boresnake:

https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Boresnake-M-16-22-Caliber/dp/B0000C50K3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550425188&sr=8-3&keywords=hoppes+bore+snake+223

The strike industry charging handles are nice:

https://www.primaryarms.com/strike-industries-arch-ar15-charging-handle-extended-latch

I would suggest getting something like this it will have everything that you need, and a lot of brushes for other calibers if you end up getting them. Other than this kit, you will need a (preferably lint free, I like to use microfiber) cloth, and a small brush like a toothbrush (these are great), and a powder solvent (Hoppe's No. 9 is great stuff)

Honestly, for $116ish I'd opt for the [Lyman Case Prep Xpress] (http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Prep-Xpress-115-Volt/dp/B004TABTWU/) and save ~$10ish. Amazon reports that the Lyman unit is free one-day delivery, too. I have one with an [RCBS military crimp remover] (http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A/) that I'd highly recommend.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit/1324071.uts ($50 mail-in rebate on this)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8JZL4?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Small-Base-Die-223/dp/B000N8LIOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495571705&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+223+dies

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495571775&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+calipers

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Length-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B001RI7A66/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572110&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman+headspace+gauge

= $435, leaving $65 for your first round of components.

When your $50 rebate comes, I'd get this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572018&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+bullet+comparator

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-836017-Quick-n-EZ-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572088&sr=1-2&keywords=bullet+puller

• A load manual from your bullet manufacturer of choice. Since money is an issue, I'd start with Hornady and/or Sierra bullets which are on the affordable side of the spectrum and are good quality. Also, Hodgdon has a lot of free data for their powders (including IMR) on their website.
  
  This is basically my exact setup and I get great results from it.

If you aren't doing much volume the lee trimmer is the best budget minded one you can get.

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Cutter-Lock-Stud/dp/B000NOQIOU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417303995&sr=8-1&keywords=lee+trimmer

8 bucks and then each caliber is 8 bucks or less

you don't need to trim 9mm

I've had to trim .357 because I had a bunch of different range pick up and they varied greatly, wouldn't seat on the cannelure right.

I reload for my ar15's, so buying the WFT for .223 was a lot easier than all the blisters the lee trimmer would cause.

They also have this thing, it would be a lot more comfortable.

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Cutter-Ball-Grip/dp/B00162PVJQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1417303995&sr=8-3&keywords=lee+trimmer

If you're worried, you can get something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Otis-Tactical-Cleaning-System-Brushes/dp/B0000C52A5

I have one that I can clean every rifle and pistol I own. They easily attach to a strap or molle web platform. As others have pointed out, unless you're in the mud or water (or own a kimber or something that rusts super easy) you shouldn't need to clean, but it's nice to have the ability.

Alright, basic .22 LR rifle cleaning is really simple.

In general, cleaning a gun can be as easy or as complicated as you want it to be.

Get a Boresnake. Select the .22 caliber one.

Take it with you when you shoot. Once you're done shooting for the day, run the bore snake through the barrel a couple of times (from the breech to the muzzle). This will help get some of the gunk out of the barrel.

If you want to get your barrel cleaner, spray or pour some solvent down the barrel and then run the bore snake through it.

The best way to get a barrel extremely (and unnecessarily) clean is to get something like Montana X-Treme bore solvent, apply some to a cloth patch, and run the patch through the barrel on a cleaning jag with a one piece rod. Let it soak for about 20 minutes, and then maybe run another couple of soaked patched through. Then, run a copper brush through the bore on a one piece cleaning rod a few times (making sure to only go from the breech to the muzzle), and then run another patch through it. The patch should come out blue, from the copper you've scrubbed out. Then, you can soak a patch with some copper solvent and run that through a few times. Let it soak. Scrub the barrel again with a copper brush and then push patches through the barrel until they come out white as fresh snow. Apply a super small amount of oil to a patch and run that through the barrel. Then, one last clean patch. There's literally no reason to clean a barrel that thoroughly, but that is the way to get basically everything out of it.

For detailed cleaning of the bolt and action, watch a youtube video on how to disassemble the bolt assembly. Do that, soak everything in solvent for a few minutes, and then scrub everything that's dirty with a toothbrush until the grime is loosened up. Then, wipe everything off with an old cut up sock or t-shirt. Repeat as needed, until everything is clean. Apply a super light coat of oil to any part that moves or rubs against another part. You may want to apply oil to the surface of the firearm to prevent surface rust.

I was using gun oil to prevent corrosion of my steel. Another poster here suggested that might be a bad idea. After a lot of searching and reading pretty much every thread on the topic on B&B and SRP (there are several in the archives), I decided NOT to oil my razor at all, as the general consensus is that oils can do more harm than good. For those who do choose to oil their blades, mineral oil or non-corrosive gun oils are the most popular choices.

Now, instead of oiling, I wipe it down with a TUF-cloth and store my razors inside a silicone gun sleeve in a drawer with a small rechargeable silica dehumidifying canister. Probably overkill protection, but it's easier than oiling and I feel much better protected with a total long term investment of $22.

I would invest in some case gauges and headspace gauges. This way you can do a plunk test to make sure they're in spec without actually doing a plunk test in the firearm. I tend to check every 5-10th round to make sure they all seem to be in spec.. There's nothing worse than loading 200 rounds and find out that you maybe accidentally changed something or something moved and they're all out of spec.

I use the Wilson Case Gauge and it works really well. Lyman has one for about $21 you can try. I was going to get that one and changed my mind after I heard a story or two about the Lyman one not being stainless steel and got rusty.. but I live in the desert and don't have a swamp cooler so I shouldn't have to worry about that. Didn't think about it at the time.

Right now for a cheap way to trim, I use the Lyman E-ZEE Trimmer attached to my power drill.

You'll also want a good pair of calipers. I use the Hornady Digital Caliper and it works well enough.

If I think of anything else, I'll update.

Those a great guns.

There’s a ton of information on cleaning rifles and pistols online. I suggest getting an OTIS cleaning kit, and going from there.

Here’s a decent start

It’s going to give you the bare essentials for cleaning multiple calibers.


Here is a link to the River Mini14 cleaning

Here is a video on how to clean the Tokarev.

Enjoy!

kinda looks like a 308? maybe a tad bit bigger. What does the headstamp, the bottom of the cartridge case, say? neutralization? stick the brass end in a vice and pull the copper bit out with good pliers. They also make bullet puller tools you can buy off amazon, like this one found here. that can help you pull it safely. Then discard the gunpowder in your garden or lawn and throw the rest in the trash.

What's the challenge in MA? I honestly don't know the challenges of other states all that well.

Lee makes a turret press starter kit that I think is really well rounded, for just over $200. That plus bullets, primers, powder and it's a good start. There are better presses out there, but the costs are higher. I really like my turret.

Gunbot and AmmoSeek for finding powder, bullets, and primers online.

My reloading setup was based on budget. I spent about $147 total for my Lee Single Stage Press + extras. The only complaint I have is I wish the press was a little more accurate for speedier results.

Id like if anyone commented on high speed pressing components with high accuracy results. It would be nice to have but really just curious whats out there and what works.

Edit: incase you were curious ive listed my parts below

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SF4X5I/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Deluxe-3-Die-Rifle/dp/B00162TEOE

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOQIOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOSGOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014136PA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00162UGQE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can get a lee bench kit for like $120-140ish and it has just about everything you need to get started. Seen em on midway for $130. Amazon has one for $90 so if you have prime free 2 day shipping i think they even do free prime for college students too https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Anniversary-Challenger-Kit/dp/B00162RM3E

And ditch the OEM scale that comes with the kit, go for this or this. A digital scale makes weighing your charges much easier and quicker.

Notice how they're exactly the same thing as the Hornady or Frankford Arsenal, except for fall less $$. Everything nowadays comes out of the same factories in the East, and resellers just slap their label on and charge whatever they think their targets are willing to pay. '

I personally got that Smart Weigh and it works great.

Forster makes great tools, but I would reconsider the priming tool. I don't like having to fill up primer tubes -- I prefer to just flip the tray of primers into something like the Lee auto prime, shake them to line them up, and then prime.

Also, having done this for a while, I finally broke down and bought a Lyman case prep Xpress https://www.amazon.com/6702203-Lyman-Case-Xpress-7810220/dp/B004TABTWU. Yeah it's more money, but it runs quiet, saves your fingers, and does a variety of other tasks, like cleaning and uniforming primer pockets, removing case primer crimps (if your cases have any), lubing case necks. If you do enuf reloading, it's well worth it.

Probably the best deal is to start with this. just buy the dies and probably a digital scale. Also pick up a lyman reloading manual (49th edition). best for beginners to get you set on your way to properly reloading.

Tuf Cloth is a great way to clean and protect your higher end knives from corrosion at the same time.

You can make it as cheap or as expensive as you like. The little lee loader kits are handy, and I think they can be had for under $50. It's a slow, rather imprecise way to do it, but it works and it's a good way to get the process down. I ended up getting this Lee kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Challenger/dp/B003ISVWC6/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1450679765&sr=1-1&keywords=lee+press+kit

Space is the real issue though. I know over on /r/reloading there are guys doing it in their closets, but I think a shop or garage with a concrete floor makes life easier.

I don't know what kind of volume you plan on doing, but you might consider the Lyman E-Zee Trim as well. It will allow you to trim by hand or use a power drill. I recently bought one and can trim, de-burr, and chamfer a .223 case in a bit less than 15 seconds.

For what it's worth, my Lee 50th Anniversary kit has been fantastic for me. I will admit that I almost instantly swapped out the included measure for the Pro Auto Disk and the beam scale for an electronic. I also invested in a universal decapper.

How are you planning on case cleaning? Ultrasonic, vibratory, wet tumbling (like the cool kids do)...?

I reload 9mm and 5.56, here's my experience:

1. Lee Breech Lock Challenger Kit: $120 shipped
   
2. Electronic scale $30
   
3. Reloading trays (2) $5 ea.
   
4. Case de-burrer thingy $25
   
5. Misc Case length trimming widgets $10
   
6. Reloading Manual: I found mine free online in .pdf form, but take your pick.
   
7. Bullet puller $12
   
   Instruction manual Seriously though, this guy is one of the best reloading resources around.

Unless you have a really good kitchen scale I wouldnt go with it. I've had good luck with this Frankford Arsenal scale.

Yeah.. but you have to weigh it...

I'm thinking of getting something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Powder-Measure-Kit/dp/B000N8OIE8

and just doing it by volume and using a card to clear the top so it's level each time.

I'm going to do this with my adderall dosage too. Long story.

Me and my dad started with this Lee kit, but ended up replacing the stock scale for a digital one. And of course whatever dies you need. We do pistol mainly, but will eventually do .30-06 and .223 rounds.

You'll also want to get a good set of calipers, and a tumbler to clean brass.

That's awesome!!!! Congrats!

I have one thing to be excited about and that is I may be getting a job as a weapons master for a certain TV show(cant say until it's official. I signed an NDA). This has been in the works for about 7 months now and Derek(my current boss and gun shop owner) and I are in final talks. Im really excited.

MCubb may be just a tad bit excited today!

Related Item

The kit would not have a tumbler, it would have a press (a thing w/ a lever that raises the shell up and down against the dies, is bolted to a table/workbench). The dies include a deprimer usually. You need a sturdy bench/table that you can mount a press on btw.
You could probably buy $400 of the expensive/good stuff, and let him round out the cheaper stuff.

Here’s a list of important stuff:
This press is great: Lee Precision Classic Turret Press (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LThgAbTFN5PNG

The 4 hole thing is interchangeable. So u can swap out different calibers quickly w/our adjusting the dies again.


Lyman Gen6 Digital Powder Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU6CIUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9WhgAbJDKEQ14

I learned a digital powder scale is what you want, this thing increases productivity a lot.

Could recommend a few more items

My only concern with that Lyman press is the amount of room (or lack thereof). When loading rifle cartridges it seems like it might get a little tight and hard to work with. I've also heard that Lee has 2 different models of turret press and one of them is garbage. But I've heard this one is actually pretty decent. https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541975573&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lee+turret+press&dpPl=1&dpID=41QzMUGtesL&ref=plSrch

It has the auto indexing feature and is less than $100 and plenty of room to work with...it's pretty tempting. Or it it really that bad?

Im trying to keep everything below $500 to start with. Can you recommend some good dyes for 223/308?

Lyman case prep multi-tool: https://amzn.com/B004MCMCYE

Lets you chamfer and debur using a drill or powered screwdriver. It comes with adapters that are threaded 8-32 so you can put ANY cleaning rod attachment in a drill, or other tools like primer pocket uniformers, etc.

Best $20 I never spent (Was a gift. Would buy again though).

As /u/IMR800X stated, I'd get away from the spring loaded dies and get a single stage bench mounted press. Buy once, cry once. Any decent single stage press will last you decades of use. So with that being said I'd recommend either the Lee 50th anniversary or Hornady Single Stage kits. Both come with a lot of nice extras that you have on your wish list. The Lee press is about $100 cheaper and the press is solid and reliable, but I like the Hornady bushing system better for quick die changes. The Hornady kit does come with the reloading manual, a digital scale, and a bit of case lube which is a nice upgrade over the Lee. Either way you will still need to buy calipers, a bullet puller, and a set of dies.

I'm still new to shooting at paper targets, I will start shooting in groups of 5 from now on. I've looked into reloading but there's so much info out there that I'm not even sure where to start.

I was looking at the Lee 50yr Anniversary Kit on Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-50th-Anniversary-Reloading/dp/B00162RM3E and picking a set of .308 dies. I guess after that my next step would be to grab some powders, bullets, tumblers. I know the initial investment will pay itself off pretty quick, but do you have a reloading for dummies you can recommend?

Lyman 49th edition is great

Nosler 7 is good too

I prefer the Lyman one; it has more data for each cartridge. The nosler manual doesn't have a lot of pistol cartridges listed. Lyman also has data for cast bullets for virtually every cartridge.

Buy this Otis kit. It will clean everything you own. They aren't overkill for anything; they're a great cleaning kit.

Bore snakes are nice for a quick wipe but shouldn't be used for a long time because they collect pieces of what they clean out and can scratch the chamber/bore.

I use Tuf-Cloth. Its a lint-free cloth soaked in oil/silicone that is non-greasy and doesn't attract dirt. It also prevents rust. I use it on my firearms and knives. The stuff work wonders. At only $8, this product is a great deal. I have had the same cloth for about a year and it's still good.

EDIT: grammar

I think a Tuf-Cloth may help. Knife and gun guys use it to protect their carbon steels. Its also used by museums to protect items that are prone to rust. The product in the cloth creates an invisible barrier from the elements. http://www.amazon.com/TUF-CLOTH-12-Resealable-Pouch/dp/B000E892Z2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1YH1ZRQYXJWUH&coliid=I4CVG2QL61RXU

Edit: Oh and congrats!!!!!!

I just started to and you need to chamfer and deburring tool.

This one is the best IMO http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Prep-Multi-Tool/dp/B004MCMCYE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422086949&sr=8-2&keywords=lyman+case+prep&pebp=1422086951922&peasin=B004MCMCYE

If you are reloading 556 brass with a crimp around the primer you may also want this tool that also fits into the above layman tool. http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1422087101&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+crimp+remover&pebp=1422087104120&peasin=B0063IDE6A

You can get the crimp off with a razor or the first tool but its easy to put this in the drill chuck and crank them out by the numbers.

The primer pockets are definitely cleaner. I will load almost all of them without using a primer pocket cleaner because they are plenty clean. It's not as loud as I was expecting but it's definitely not quiet. I would still run it in an apartment I just wouldn't put in right up to a wall.

http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Master-Tumbler-Kit/dp/B000TTILBC/ref=pd_sim_misc_2

That's what I bought.

I have a Frankford Arsenal one that I'm pretty happy with.

The Speer manual is a good one. Read the first third twice. It has load data for Speer bullets. For other bullets the manufacturers may have it online or you may need to buy their manual. All of the powder manufacturers have load data online.

The RCBS chargemaster is a good choice

The Gempro 250 is used by perfectionists for whom 0.1 grain accuracy is not enough and want 0.01 grain. I don't think it is worth the money

This tumbler works.

I like a man/woman who speaks my language.

Enjoy:

Rod

Brass Jags

Patches

Clothes

I'm only speaking from a few months experience so I'm sure someone can give you a more complete answer, but I have used This Otis kit and it works fine for cleaning my handguns and my .22 rifle. This video shows you how to use it on a bolt action.

I'm mostly just commenting to tell you that you picked a really nice first rifle.

Check out http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-presses/lee-turret-press/lee-classic-cast-turret-press
or
https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-classic-turret-press-90064.html

If you have Amazon Prime this will be the cheapest new press
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495526802&sr=8-2&keywords=lee+classic+turret+press

I highly suggest that if you go with the Lee, get the Classic Cast Turret, not their "Lee Precision Turret". The classic cast is built far superior. I own one of every type presses Lee makes, except the 50 BMG. I had the 50 BMG, but chose to go to the Hornady, because it had more leverage for resizing and better Die's for making competition loads.

I use my Lee presses for the other 25 different calibers I reload and compete with.

What is the best manual to get started with? I'm planning to reload .308 and was about to buy this kit from either amazon or another dealer. Is this a good place to start? (I live in an apartment and am quite pressed for space)

I like to use the Otis pull through cleaning kit. I normally use hoppes 9 after a range visit and depending on how much I shoot a firearm I occasionally soak it in Wipe out

I pretty much never use a brush any more with this cleaning method, it's easier and quicker I find than scrubbing with a rod.

I started out with a single stage press about a month ago and my first round was 300 blackout. As a matter of fact, that's the only thing I'm reloading right now. I've made 220 rounds so far.

I did it on an RCBS single stage, but it's 45 years old and was given to me by my Dad. If I had to start from scratch as a beginner, I'd get this kit and be happy

i would suggest a digital scale. I use one of these scales and occasionally dump it on my weight based scale like the one in the supreme kit to make sure its accurate. i do calibrate before each use.

i JUST got into it, as in, I just got my press this week and get the shell holder tuesday.

this

and brass, and bullets both of which are cheaper for your gun than mine.

seriously man, it's really really easy, i think you'll enjoy it, message me if you have any questions, or like the guy below said, go to the FAQ there.

If it's this one then it's good to go. There are a few other things that you'll likely want but that's a good "cheap" start.

Something like this for the 700 and this for the '94?

Thanks man.

I would definitely recommend wiping the blades down with oil or some other rust resistant product such as a TufCloth. Probably couldn't hurt to throw a desiccant of some sort into the cabinet/drawer/wherever you store your gear to soak up the moisture out of the air.

A reloading manual. Buy one. Read it cover to cover at least twice. Then buy another different manual. Read it twice. Reference both for loading data.

Edit: This is the manual I mainly use. http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E

I have tons of other sources for data like magazines and what not, but the manual is always the starting point, especially for safety.

I get the same problem in GA with humidity. this with a medium bristle tooth brush over all stainless steel surfaces and then wipe it down with a silicon cloth like this one to prevent more rust.

Works like a charm.

I just bought one too! I was researching upkeep and it seems like the three big things are:

• Learning how to sharpen on a cheap blade (I bought an Opinel 8 for this)
  
• Protection from rust
  
• Lubrication for folders
  
  With that said, has anyone ever used TUF CLOTH for cleaning and blade maintenance? I bought a fixed blade ESEE and that is what they recommend so I figured I could use it on all blades correct?

I learned on my own with the book that came with my press. It's pretty straightforward but there's lots of videos out there that can help

https://youtu.be/irC3NuIKDm4

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/dp/B00T9YKW60

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/

Use this every time you go to the range, use it frequently

• Bore snake - Use this every time you go to the range, use it frequently
  
  
• Ballistol or Solvent (Hoppes 9)+oil (Hoppes oil is fine too)
  
  
• Q-Tips
  
  
• Paper towels
  
  Every once in long while, several hundred rounds, go through and do a deep clean to remove copper and whatnot:
  
  
• Brass jags
  
• Patches
  
• Single piece rod. My preference is in the longest length you can get.
  
• Bore guide
  
• Sweets copper solvent
  
  That's it for me.

I have a lee turret press. My favorite part about it is the >10 dollar turrets that you can buy. I have 4 of em set up in what I reload so its a drop and go setup with no calibration. Never got the stupid powder hopper to work so I snagged an inexpensive powder thrower that I use to charge everything except my sniper gat rounds with. https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B008M5TSCG I want to say I got mine on sale for like 150.

He's right about the bore snake definitely check that out. You can find them on Amazon for a better price than you see in stores/online

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-24011-BoreSnake-Cleaner-22--223/dp/B0000C50K3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415661560&sr=8-1&keywords=bore+snake

Ok so I's start by making sure the ends are square and flush with the blank using a pen mill. If any thing is sticking out past the tube it'll cause problems. I clean the inside of my tubes using a 1/8" rat tail or chainsaw file. Then I chamfer the tubes using one of these any outdoors shop that sells reloading equipment should have one.

Outside that make sure everything is straight and don't over press. I use a arbor press so you can apply too much force with it. Also measure your components and the tubes and see if they are over sized. Maybe you got some 8mm kits by mistake or something.

Start by reading the FAQ at /r/reloading. Make sure you have a look see at a reloading manual or two as well.

Bare minimum equipment you will need is:

Press

Dies for your caliber

Calipers

Scale

Lube

I started with a Lee Challenger kit which is $116 and has everything you will need, minus a set of calipers for about $25. I also got a digital scale and a tumbler. All in you will be about $200 or so to start pumping out rounds.

I wouldnt say its the best but I use the frankford digital scale. I calibrate it before each batch but its always worked well and been accurate for me

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Digital-Reloading-Display/dp/B002BDOHNA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537457308&sr=8-3&keywords=reloading+scale

What I do is get a Tuf-Cloth and wipe down the blade before you put it away

Some rust prevention tests can be found here and here so you can see what works best.

Pick one. It'll be your favorite for the rest of your life.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/9993957887/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000WCPGSW/ref=dp_olp_used_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=used

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1498367409&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=lyman+49th+reloading+handbook

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-50th-Reloading-Handbook-Hardcover/dp/B01H2JD6CK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1498367547&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman%2B50th%2Breloading%2Bhandbook&th=1

If you want the classic turret press, its $30 cheaper here and free shipping.

http://www.amazon.ca/Lee-Precision-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426120812&sr=8-1&keywords=lee+classic

or this will show you their other options.

http://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=lee+press&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Alee+press

www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-N-Ez-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ - $13 free prime shipping.

Have it in 2 days. Does not damage the bullet.

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Products-E-ZEE-Trimmer-Rifle/dp/B00AU6C7MI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492090770&sr=8-3&keywords=lyman+case+trimmer

This thing is EASY and affordable. I use it with my cordless drill and/or my smaller drill press!

Remove the primer crimp and you'll be good to prime with none damaged.




Cheaper



Funsies


Or you can swage the primer pocket which pushes the brass back into itself, compared to removing brass.

[Make your own](http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-N-Ez-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335282942&tag=write-20&sr=8-1-fkmr0 "be sure to remove the primers too.").

I would recommend filling the casings with something to make them bottom heavy.

> American Weigh Digital Scale, 100g [0.01g sensitivity $10.42 Qty: 1

You probably want to go with something that displays in grains, otherwise you'll need to convert all of measurements from grams/oz. I use this one and it is ok.

You're gonna mess up.


You'll probably also want some way to store / carry the rounds you've made.


I'd also recommend a case gauge. I don't remember which one I bought, lyman maybe? ABCs of reloading too, if you haven't read that yet.

I use a Dremel 124 then Deburr with a hand loading tool that I have. You can get a cheap deburring tool.

Depends if were talking just any normal gun not surplus ammo, I typically put bit of oil down the barrel and run a bore snake through it repeatedly. Works well on a mosin shooting non corrosive.

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-24011-BoreSnake-Rifle-Cleaner/dp/B0000C50K3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382451527&sr=8-1&keywords=bore+snake

As for size a Mosin is 7.62 MM or .297 so a .30-30 or for a .308 round will work. Since 7mm .280 - .270 tend to be to small. Need to make sure any gun powder is removed from the breech, and bolt face using bit of hoppes or oil and a brush, I use a old tooth brush. Then Once a year she gets the strip down deep clean.

Now for corrosive ammo that stuffs a bit more nasty, windex or lots of hoppes, in the reciever, strip the bolt, again cleaned well with windex, hoppes, water or anything to help neutralize the primer corrosive salts. Use my bore brush to help knock any loose powder and primer salts out. Once I think its fairly clean can see down the barrel and no powder residue and my nice rifling, time to oil that girl up. Patches with oil through the bore, rub oil into the breech, bolt, reassemble the bolt and then the yearly tear down regardless of if I've shot corrosive or non. If its going to say sit in the gun safe for extended period of time like winter I might leave a heaver coat of oil on it.

Most vibratory tumblers aren't so loud you'll have problems with them in an apartment. You probably won't want it sitting in the room with you while it's running, but it's not so bad that it'll likely cause complaints from your neighbors.

Here's a pretty good kit that includes a tumbler and media separator for $66 or just the tumbler for $45

That would be a great gift. You should get a scale that is specifically aimed at reloaders - that is, one that is set up to weigh in grains. It only needs to be precise to 0.1 grains. Anything "lab grade" is overkill for reloading.

You can choose to go with a balance beam scale like these:

RCBS

Hornady

​

There are also digital scales that are cheaper and easier to use, but less durable and lack the character of a balance beam scale:

Frankford Arsenal

​

Go with a Bore Snake. Makes life much easier. My .22 caliber one works fine on my 30-30 and Mosin.

Dillon 550+ depending on your level of seriousness.

Also it depends if you want to mass produce plinking ammo (progressive press) or if you want to create match grade+ ammo (single stage)

/r/Reloading

FWIW I have a Lee Turret Press for all my pistol calibers. It's better than a single stage but certainly not as great as a progressive but it doesn't cost a ton. I don't reload .223/5.56 yet.

I'm getting this.

Seem good?

So this is a Smith and Wesson Model 27, made in 1960 (per the serial number), .357 Magnum (also .38 special). I received it as a gift and it is my first gun ever! Super stoked to own it now, and I'll probably join the prolonged slide of gun ownership that I see in this sub time to time. My next purchase is likely a smaller concealed carry weapon.

The giant ammo tin is vintage, I'm guessing vietnam era, but no idea, I could be full of shit. It's stacked with hundreds of .357 FMJs. 1 box of .357 hollow points, and 2 boxes of Shotshell snake charmers.

I'm pleased as punch with this gun. I've just purchased a bunch of accessories on amazon, I'll post them below, maybe you can tell me if these are good products or not for range shooting. (No referral links or any of that bs)

Plano Protector 4 pistol case

MTM 38/357 Cal 100 Round Flip-Top Ammo Box

Remington T-72 Shooting Glasses

3M Peltor Combat Arms Earplugs

Hoppe's Universal Gun Cleaning Accessory Kit

you'll need a powder measure, scale, dies, shell holder, some callipers, a bullet puller, and consumables of course. Not necessary but reloading manuals and the The ABCs of reloading Personally I'd get the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit that comes with most everything you need, and upgrade as you see fit.

You can go with the Lee Case Trimmer and save about $75. Just chuck it in your drill and it makes quick work of the brass. You have to buy the holder for each caliber, which run around $6 each. If you're only doing one or two rifle calibers, they are much cheaper.

I'd recommend the lee turret, because i'm a lee fanboy! I think i have the anniversary kit. 4 holes on mine.

Edit: mine may not be sold anymore? Grab a https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BWTF1E/ref=pd_aw_sbs_200_of_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ETFHFSA25YJR2RJ375NM.

It can be a pain, but it doesn't have to be. If you get this little tool or something similar it can really expedite things.

I take the small primer pocket reamer, chuck it into a hand drill and proceed to ream out 50 cases in less than five minutes.

> The Lee scale is despised...

Yes. I hate that thing. Frankford arsenal has a cheap digital one that works great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BDOHNA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oP0ACbB5JTBB4

What makes this more worth than something like this?

Lee Precision Anniversary Challenger Kit II https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00162RM3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1jqjzb836WTCP

To a rookie it all seems the same.

Here is a good kit to get started, disclaimer you will almost always want to upgrade. You will also need dies, powder and primers

LEE PRECISION Classic Turret Press Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M5TSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.8GTCbVPSE29H

Fuck the rod-based cleaning kits. They break easily and take up too much space. Get one of these, they're outstanding.

> The only glaring omission I see is that you need a bullet puller.

Thanks for the suggestion. I just ordered this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7ZB4Q

If you haven't already check out the FAQ on /r/reloading. They've got a ton of resources. This book is usually referenced as a good starting point.

If you want the cheapest way to do it: Lyman case prep. You can put the individual tools into some sort of connecting nut and put it into a handdrill. Also includes tools for chamfer and deburring. Not the most efficient or consistent, and not fun for a large amount of brass. But cheap, and easy to use.

Removing the crimp and priming aren't really supposed to be done in the same step. I prefer to do my rifle priming off press, so I got something like this: Lee ergo. Each manufacturer has their own priming tool, just remember for the lee ones, you need to buy holders for various calibers. And no, you can't use the press case holder for the primer (cue video of me cursing before reading directions).

FYI, if you're not a fan of the pink, the normal tactical cleaning kit is $35 shipped on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Otis-Tactical-Cleaning-System-Shotgun/dp/B0000C52A5

Thanks for the help all.

Went with the following.

BLACKHAWK! Sportster Range Bag, Black

3 Trigger Locks

Chamber Flags

Targets

Stapler Staples

Cheap Earplugs

Cleaning Kit Should I also get a collapsible one? Was unable to find one on Amazon.

Eye Protection

Primary Ear Protection


Anything I missed?
[Secondary Ear Protection] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001D8CRB8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Incase my main ones fail, or I have a guest.

So looking at buying my first press and noticed that amazon has the lee jeans logo on the lee press. clicking on it takes you over to the jeans. lol

lol.

or you could just reload/make more

Basic press kit:

LEE PRECISION Breech Lock Challenger Kit (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ISVWC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bupTDbW2EZCNP

Bullet dies (Lee dies work for .38 and .357):

LEE PRECISION Lee Preciesion 90964, Deluxe 4 Die Carbide Set.38 Special https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8LMX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kKpTDbHJ5Q5QG



Brass cleaner:

Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ 110V Vibratory Case Tumbler for Cleaning and Polishing for Reloading https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MYGLJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SwpTDbNAN79WC

Lead melter:

LEE PRECISION 90021 Melter (Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00162UONY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9xpTDbKEE2RX3

Lead Dipper:

LEE PRECISION Lead Ladle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LN12Y4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_izpTDbFM3DPRA

Bullet mold:

LEE PRECISION 358-125-Rf Double Cavity Mold https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OPUDCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XzpTDb5ZD1TQZ

Reloading guide (read the intro a few times):

Lyman 50th Edition Reloading Handbook Hardcover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HH08L1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ABpTDb4HF8JH2





Supplies:


Brass:

https://www.capitalcartridge.com/38-special-brass-s/112.htm

Primers: academy sells cci small pistol primers $4 per 100

Powder: $20 per 1lb at academy do research to find what type you want

Bullets: $30 per 250-300 at academy, I like the horandy frontier lead stuff. Or buy prefluxed lead on the reloading exchange. And melt your own.

I was recently given this as a gift and really like it: http://www.amazon.com/Otis-Tactical-Cleaning-System-Brushes/dp/B0000C52A5

I know this debate is an endless one but I'm going to put in my two cents for the Lee Classic Turret.

It's more flexible in it's usage than a single stage, but can also be used as a single stage.

All lot of what you're asking for is personal preference. Almost everything on the market can do what you're asking for. The main difference is that the more money you spend, the less time you'll spend, on average.
Some people prefer beam scales, some electronic, some use automatic systems. All can be very accurate and it depends on personal preference. Same for case prep, press selection, etc.
My advice to you: buy an inexpensive Lee set, such as the Breech Lock Challenger kit, and a set of calipers and go from there. That kit has almost everything you need to get started. You'll find out pretty quickly what you need/want to improve. There is no end all/be all to reloading. Even with all the advice and arguments on this forum, almost all of it is personal preference.

I think Tuf cloths work well with D2. I'm not sure if you would want to cut food with that, but you could always use food grade mineral oil as well.

well that does make it difficult now doesn't it. I have one of these if you would like it just pm me your address if you feel comfortable and ill mail it out

I use one of these because The individual bits will all fit on my power drill. Makes removing the crimp or bur from trimming simple and quick.

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-7777800-Case-Prep-Multi/dp/B004MCMCYE

Chamfer the inside of the case opening and your bullets will sit in the case without any issue. You can use something like this tool. Takes just a second or two to do it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MCMCYE?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

The handle unscrews and all the pieces fit inside including the chamfer and deburring parts

Could you use something like this to clean from breach to muzzle? http://www.amazon.com/Otis-Tactical-Cleaning-System-Brushes/dp/B0000C52A5

You'd have to buy a bullet puller. Like this.

This is all you need.

Works more multiple calibers as well.

Handguards are mostly personal preference. What are you mostly using your AR for?