Reddit mentions: The best hand punches

I just posted another comment so you'd see a notification.


Here's the list! Hope it's not too long. All the tools listed are the ones I bought. If I have other suggestions, I've listed them as well. I've also listed details on the functions of the tools, and why they're superior to some other alternatives. If you look for the same amount of tools in one of those "kits," they would set you back roughly 200-400, depending on where you bought it from. The tools in these kits are usually quite inferiorly made as well. This list is a result of about a week long search and perusal. Tandy is a well known and easily accessible aggregation of tools, but they're overpriced for what they do and their quality is mediocre at best.

• Stitching Chisel Set Amazon - $19 - Used for even stitching holes. An alternative to this tool would be something called an overstitch wheel, but from what I've read, the consensus seems to be that pricking irons are better and more reliable for straight lines. Also, overstitch wheels don't pierce the leather all the way, and only mark the holes, meaning that you have to pierce each hole individually with an awl after you're done. Double the work.
  
  
• Stitching Groover & Edge Trimmer Amazon - $22 - This tool combines three tools into one. The edge groover, edge trimmer, and fold liner. It's not amazing quality admittedly, but it gets the job done well, and for the price I really can't complain. The edge groover cuts out a thin channel which sets the thread in deeper in the leather. Edge trimmer smooths the sharp corners, and the fold liner makes a line if you want to fold the leather somewhere.
  
  
• Cutting Mat Amazon - $10 - I'd say absolutely necessary for anything leather related. This one is really cheap, works great. I have the 18x12 inch model, and the price is for that one as well.
  
  
• Hole Punch Set Amazon - $9 - I'd say this one is more on the optional side. Mostly needed if you're interested in putting in hardware like rivets or snaps. Also good however for oblong rounded holes, like I showed in my project.
  
  
• Mallet Amazon - $8 - Needed for all sorts of things. A normal metal hammer won't work because it won't absorb any force at all and all energy will be transferred to the leather, potentially damaging it. A rubber mallet allows for a softer hit.
  
  
  
• Diamond Stitching Awl Ebay - $9 - While technically not necessary if you're using a stitching chisel, if the leather you're working with is extremely thick, it might help to have it. You should get one anyway though. You'll inevitable end up using it. Also, make sure to get a "Diamond" pointed one. Normal awls with round points just poke a hole in that doesn't close back up. Diamond points are wide and thin, and this allows the leather to close back up on the thread after it has been sewed up. C.S. Osborne is also American made.
  
  
• Skiving Knife Ebay - $9 - Needed for thinning leather when folding, or simply trimming thick leather. There are several different styles, and they all definitely require a bit of finesse to be used properly, but are immensely rewarding once learned. Also a C.S. Osborne.
  
  
• Bone Folder Ebay - $7 - One of the tools you can improvise for. It's needed to crease corners when folding to flatten them out. Also can be used to burnish. The cocobolo burnisher that I made ended up working just as well as this for folding as well. Any smooth, rounded/flat long object will work well for this. This one is also a C.S. Osborne.
  
  
• Harness Needles Ebay - $7 - Size 2 is what I got, and it fits with 0.8 thread, also what I used. These needles are handy because the tips are somewhat rounded, which means no pricked fingers. Comes in a pack of 25, and the first two that I pulled out are still going strong, so they're quite sturdy.
  
  
• Ritza "Tiger" Thread Ebay - $7 for 25m - Obviously endless varietes of alternatives here. However, in my research it seemed to be the consensus that this was the superior thread. It comes already waxed, and it's extremely durable. The 0.8mm size fits the size 2 needle, and both are great for small projects.
  
  
• Barge Cement Ebay - $4 or $23 - Barge cement is a well known glue for leatherworkers, and works well. It's used to hold edges together to make sewing easier, as well as holding folds down. The thing is, they released a new formula, (the $4 one) that is "eco-friendly" and is missing some key chemicals. This is the one I got. It also kinda sucks at holding leather together. The original formula, (the $23 one), comes in a quart size at the smallest, but from what I heard this one is rock solid and the origin of their reputation. If you're planning on doing many projects I'd just say to invest in the quart.
  
  
• Stitching Pony This is what it looks like - I didn't put a link to a product for this one because all the ones I have seen are ridiculously overpriced. I made my own out of some more scrap hardwood I had laying around, (you can barely see the tip of it in the sewing picture here and it works flawlessly. It's used to hold the leather together so you can saddle stitch it, which requires both hands. Besides the wood, it cost me about $3 in hardware to make my own. You can easily whip one up with some 2x4s and a long bolt, knob, and some screws, for a grand total of probably $5 from home depot. You may need a table or miter saw, or equivalent.
  
  *Some of the eBay listings might have ended, but I'm sure you'll be able to find identical tools for the equivalent price or even cheaper.
  
  For me the tools came out to a grand total of roughly $115. You can give or take $20 if you want to improvise your own tools, or switch them out. I'd say this setup works just fine for mid to smaller projects like what I made, or wallets, etc.
  
  As for the leather, Springfield Leather sells some quality leather by the square foot, which is nice for first timers, as most tanneries only sell by the side, like what I had, which usually average around 21-28 square feet. Pretty big investment. Maverick Leather Company sells quality leathers as well as Horween "Seconds", like what I got for a very nice discount. These seconds are full sides with minor defects in the leather, but unless you're making huge bags it's easy to cut around the brand marks/scars etc, and your leather will look spotless. I got a full side of Horween Essex for roughly $130, and I'm guessing if I bought the same straight for Horween it would have run me in the ballpark of $300 or so. Since my laptop case only used about 7-8% of my leather, I used about $10 worth of leather. Quite a bargain if you ask me. If you're looking to do many projects like I am, I'd advise you to invest in a nice Horween side. Can't beat it for value and price.
  
  All told, the laptop case itself cost about $11-12 worth of materials** (leather, fabric, thread, glue) and took the better part of 2 days to complete. Granted, much of that time was spent just sitting and thinking as most of it was improvisation, as you can see by my horrible sketch.
  
  As far as my "learning" went, it was literally just Google. Some youtube videos help, and I glanced through some forums, but overall, as I've often found in woodworking too, nothing beats hand-on experience.
  
  Well, hope this helped you guys out and answered some questions. I know I definitely would have appreciated a specialized list like this when I was starting out.
  

Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...

I guess I can repost my own post:

I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
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>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.

I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.

>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.

>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?

No you don't need a full size floor jack.

If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.

Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.

>Fix-a-flat kit

Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.

>Lights! and flares

(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)

For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.

That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.

> Screwdriver set with misc bits

Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.

> Socket set?

You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.

>Glass Breaker/ Hammer

Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...

>Fire Extinguisher

It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.

• Basic first aid kit. useful for everything. Make sure if you use it, restock it.
  
  > A little portable air compressor
  
  can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...
  
  >Roll of duct tape (because obviously).
  
  I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.
  
  >Spare fluids.
  
  Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.
  
  
  > Tire pressure gauge.
  
  To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.
  
  > Jumper cables.
  
  Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.
  
  > A tow strap
  
  is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.
  
  
  > Tire chains.
  
  Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.
  
  > A shaker siphon
  
  Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.

I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.

• Torquing things:
  
  
  • An AR-15 armourer's wrench is a dedicated device for AR-15 assembly and will be needed to attach the barrel, buffer tube, and flash hider. I initially got a super cheap one that couldn't take the torque and the tool's teeth snapped off while stripping a few of my barrel nut's teeth. I now use a TAPCO-brand model and it's very well made.
    
    
  • A torque wrench ensures you are tightening the barrel, flash hider, and castle nut to the correct minimum amounts using an objective indicator of applied torque. The minimum values are in the 25-35 ft.-lb range, so get a wrench that can exceed this by a healthy margin.
    
    
  • You need a vise to hold your upper and lower receiver at the individual stages where you're attaching parts, especially anything that needs to be tightened to a specified torque level. C-clamps and speed clamps are also helpful here.
    
    
  • A pair of plastic blocks clamp your upper receiver tightly to your vise. A block of magazine-shaped plastic goes into your magwell to hold your lower receiver in place on your vise. Get a combo pack of both.
    
    
  • Molybdenum-based anti-seize (greasing) compound is necessary when attaching your barrel to your receiver. It makes things easier when torquing the barrel nut and prevents the barrel from chemically bonding to the receiver. I made the mistake of attaching the barrel without it, had great difficulty tightening the nut, found that I couldn't align the gas tube properly, and then couldn't remove the nut again. Had to toss the thing into a freezer overnight to allow thermal contraction to separate the parts.
    
    
• Pushing in roll pins:
  
  
  • You want a mallet with a non-marring head for driving in roll pins without damaging your weapon's finish.
    
    
  • A roll pin starter set will save you so much trouble getting the pins aligned for the first few hammer hits. Buy it.
    
    
  • For most of my roll pins, I used a roll punch set instead of a standard punch set to drive in the pins. Roll pins are hollow and a roll punch has a small indentation that fits inside the hollow area which makes driving the pins much easier.
    
    
  • A standard punch set came in handy to keep high-tension parts aligned while I punched in roll pins from the other side.
    
    
  • A bench block is useful in holding your parts in place while hammering in roll pins, but it's not needed if you have a friend to provide spare hands at some stages of assembly. I started off using it, but a roommate's hands plus a roll of tape (to rest the work piece on) worked just as well.
    
    
• Specialty / miscellaneous
  
  
  • If you're installing a handguard that uses the standard delta ring, you will want snap ring pliers to manipulate the snap ring part of the delta ring assembly. I initially tried using improved tools. Save yourself the cursing and just get the pliers.
    
    
  • I saw a video guide to installing the front pivot pin using a clevis pin. It looks like a good technique to use and would have saved me a lot of trouble.
    
    I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!

you want something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Stainless-Steel-Chisel-Leather/dp/B00CBRMRNI/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451984817&sr=1-3&keywords=leather+tools

I just found a random one on amazon. You can get them from china for cheaper but will have to wait quite a while for delivery. That will punch the holes very nicely and the needle should go though without too much effort. It's best to have one with 2 prongs as well to go around corners. Tools are expensive but it really shows in the project. Take your time with the stitching. It's the greatest single way to improve the finished project for people getting into leather work IMO. In my experience there isn't a great way to finish the inside of leather. Most people use pigskin as a liner as far as I know. It is very thin. Either that or design the piece so that no part of the inside is visible. If you haven't checked out this guys youtube demos do it NOW. They are amazing and I use them all the time. Really nice work and great quality of videos too.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLkCG-505-1t0rYlgBTSnpQ

Man I just finished this post and it's kind of long, oh well, that's what I get for staying up all night getting hopped up on diet soda like a rebel.

Start with buying a stripped lower, don't get hung up on brand names, there are only a handful of lower manufactures out there (I believe less than 10, maybe less than 5). Most companies have someone else make their lowers and stick their roll mark (the design on the side of the lower) on it then sell it at a 50% markup. This is the only part of the entire firearm that can not be shipped to your doorstep unless you have an FFL.

Next, since you don't want anything flashy, I would suggest the Palmetto State Armory Classic Lower Build Kit and bam, your lower is all done.

For your upper, I think I would stick to more reputable brands since there seem to be more manufacturers due to the lack of the involvement of headaches with the ATF, grab one with a lot of high reviews and then buy a PSA AR15 Upper Build Kit. For a barrel just go with whatever suits your taste, my preference is definitely 16" with a mid length gas system, it's a dream to shoot. I would recommend getting one with a front sight post already pinned on, if you decide you don't want it (like if you would want to install a free float hand guard), it's very easily replaced but if you get one without and decide you want it later it's probably the most involved/complicated thing you can even do with an ar-15. If you get a barrel with a pinned on front sight/gas block then grab the appropriate length hand guard for $20-$40 and then you need a muzzle device and a crush washer which should be about $8-$10. Buy some charging handle, everyone I know owns a Bravo Company gunfighter charging handle and loves it but I have heard a lot of good things about the Ranier Raptor charging handle as well.

Now, for a bolt carrier group, you do not want to assemble this at your kitchen table, at least not the carrier. The gas key staking is probably the most important part of the entire firearm in terms of reliability, I can't stress this enough, buy your bolt carrier from a reputable company, if you can get a Bravo Company bolt carrier group DO IT and don't look back. Once you get it, don't ever remove the gas key either, I wish I could find the video but I can't, it was of some youtube clowns running around with ar-15's and one of their rifles kept malfunctioning, he same something dumb like "I even removed the gas key and cleaned it out, I don't understand why it isn't cycling" later in the video he took out his bolt carrier and it was rattling like a paint can.

Also, factor tools in to your budget, probably around $50-100 depending on what you already have and how easily you want your build to go. The only thing you absolutely will need is an armorers wrench, everything else can be cheesed or is more for convenience. A torque wrench really should be used for the castle and barrel nuts, a center punch for staking the castle nut is actually cheaper than a tube of loctite, a small table clamp vice like this one should be sufficient if you don't have one already and a set of vice blocks will make your life easier when you torque stuff down, a set of roll pin punches and a non-marring hammer will keep everything nice and pretty but are not required if you take your time and go slow.

Anyone ever DIY a rep?

It's not a bag, but I did DIY an LV jacket that I saw on Alicia Vikander and became obsessed with. I wasn't about to fly to Hong Kong and drop $9k+ on the Auth, but being a bit crafty myself I thought I could DIY it easy enough.

I bought this suede blazer on Poshmark for ~$30. Then I bought the screw-on silver dome rivets on eBay in the 11.5mm and 19.5mm sizes ($28) and some silver chains on AE in 7.5cm and 10cm lengths (~$8).

I made a hole in the lining of the sleeve and using a leather hole punch I affixed the domes and hooked the chains between them.

Here is the final product! The weather is finally cooling down in NYC where I can wear it soon! You can still see where the original sleeve buttons were but I know that will rub out soon. It's not exactly like the Auth since I worked with the details of the blazer I had, but I feel like it still has the same feel. Not bad for ~$60!

Let me know what you think! It was a really fun project, very soothing, especially with the Great British Baking Show playing in the background.

I'd recommend spending the money on a set of Grace USA punches. Bought mine from Amazon and I absolutely love them. I bought these. I also bought this set of Grace roll spring holders. Very useful for starting roll pins. A decent hammer (I have a dedicated brass mallet and a dedicated nylon mallet), and a [bench block]https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-60981-Universal-Bench-Block/dp/B0047WKF84) if you like things to be easy.

I also have a needle file set (don't remember the brand, but they were like $20 for 6-8 of them). For sanding on the internals I generally just use wet/dry sandpaper. Usually start with around 200-grit, and end with 800-grit. For polishing, Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and a white t-shirt. With enough time, it will give a nice mirror finish and be as smooth as ice.

That's a pretty sweet set up to start off with! Since most of your questions are answered, might I suggest learning to build your own coils, rather than buying replaceables. In the short term it will be a bit pricey to begin with if you purchase a complete set, though many items can be replaced with simple home tools, like nail clippers and tweezers. In the long run you gain a large ammount more control, customizable experience, and save some good money.

Bare essentials you're looking to buy: A new tank, wire, a coil-jig (easy mode) or screw drivers, a large supply of cotton.

or you could pick up a kit

EDIT: Just do the math, if you change coils once a week, how long could it take for this set of things to pay for itself. Then think about how some people feel it makes the experience better.

I found your charging handle for almost $10 cheaper. You could cut the cost of the charging handle significantly by getting a one-handed one. I used the exact same lower build kit for my first AR. The lower build kit does not come with any tools. You're going to need some tools, such as a Castle Nut Wrench and a punch set

This is kind of optional, but you're going to need a spacer if you want to use iron sights (or else the iron sights will be blocked by the red dot sight. The spacer also helps a great deal is making it more comfortable, so your head isn't awkwardly tilted, obviously this will depend on your eye height.

Don't get discouraged if this seems confusing, if all else fails, watch an ar15 building tutorial and everything will be much clearer. Here's another tutorial. Good luck.

Buy a set of left handed drill bits and an automatic center punch.

Make a center guide hole to keep your bit in the middle, then just start with a small bit and go up sizes. Since the drill bits are left handed, your drill spins counter clock wise, so you have a good chance that the bit will catch and back the bolt out. If it doesn't, you at least made a hole for something like a bolt extractor set.

But by drilling the center out, you're releasing the tension on the threads, so as you go up in sizes on the left handed bits, you should have a good chance of unscrewing this.

You could also prep this thing by putting a few drops of penetrating oil and leaving it overnight to get into the threads.

I can't seem to find a full set of Irwin's carbide bits, they only seem to have packs of the same size, but a multi size pack exists so look around for that. It goes up in sizes from like 5/16" to like a quarter inch. You should get a few of the small bits as they are easy to break.

I used something like this for the hammer - plastic end worked great. You can get something like this if you prefer metal.

These are the punches I used, they're great. Definitely recommend something like these.

Adding onto what others have said. (Just a disclaimer I've only built 5 ARs so far so I dont know if some of the cheapo stuff is as durable as the fancy stuff that others are recommending.)

I really like this armourer's wrench since the 1/2" drive is so close to the castle and barrel nut adapter. Makes getting the correct torque easier IMO. Usually you only need the castle nut and flash hider adapters for AR builds since most aftermarket handgaurds come with proprietary barrel nut wrenches.

A decent set of roll pin punches will help you install both the upper and lower. I like this cause it also comes with a nylon (i think its nylon) end to keep from messing up your upper/lower finish.

Also, this is worth its weight in gold. It helps you install things like the roll pin that goes in the gas tube, bolt catch, trigger gaurd, and forward assist without the need of those fancy $50 tools.

And lastly I would definitely get a magpul Bev block and a bench vise. I got a cheapo one from amazon and its worked fine.

Thanks a lot! That's great news for you as well!

I have the luxury of a hole punch kit, which let's me just plop a hole into any fabric or material I want. However, a screw driver can work too, or better yet, if you have access to it, a drill and an appropriately sized drill bit. Just put the belt over a piece of scrap wood, figure out where you want the holes, and drill away. You may want to clamp it or otherwise secure the belt though, lest it take off on you. You can also use an awl, if you have one or know someone who does.

Edit: Regardless of what method you use, put the belt over a piece of scrap wood, or something you don't mind damaging. Also, use the appropriate PPE.

Build an AR. Literally grown up lego's.

Buy Roll pin punches, Grace makes good ones
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WADKN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy high quality punches in general I recommend starret for the none roll pin type.

Buy a barrel vise The viper is excellent. http://shop.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/vises-accessories/barrel-vises/barrel-vise-sku100013367-58959-123515.aspx?cm_mmc=PPC-_-Itwine-_-Google-_-100-013-367&gclid=CjwKEAiAjIbBBRCitNvJ1o257WESJADpoUt0SFb6lBg-x3fdGfsdwZDF0XGfx8AMg43bfFV-DRafuhoCBhjw_wcB

Never hold a weapon by anything other than the barrel when applying 60+ foot pounds of torque if you can help it.
That all off the top of my head for now.

First buy some pin punches, like Grace or Tekton (avoid going cheap, they always break).

Then of course a proper hammer

Then some starter punches

Then some finishing punches (I know they say starter but they're better for finishing)

Yes, it costs money, but they pay for themselves. Also you don't have to dick around with taping things off as much if you have proper tools. The brass punches and the pin capturing starter punches help IMMENSELY in this area.

Just a simple setup would be, in no particular order:

 

• Vise
  
• AR Tool - I have a powder coated green AR tool, forgot who makes it.
  
• Screwdrivers
  
• Good Lighting - Seriously, a good light source goes a long ways in the ease of building things. I have a drafting lamp very similar to this type.
  
• AR Mat - Useful for putting stuff together (and cleaning of course) your AR on your desk/dinner table, so your wife or SO won't murder you. I have this cleaning mat.
  
• Roll Pin Punches - I used a set of regular punches from Lowe's for a while, i finally got around to getting a set of actual roll pin punches on Amazon recently.
  
• Small Hammer - I got this small 8-ounce hammer on Amazon. It's perfect for use with the roll pin punches.
  
• Mallet - Useful for hitting things without marring up the finish.
  
• Vise Block - I use a Magpul Bev block for work on my lower or upper. Waiting for the next Geissele sale so i can snag a Geissele Super Reaction Rod to replace the Bev block on upper work.
  
• Allen Wrenches - I have this set of 3 hex-torx allen wrenches. Super handy for rails and other mount screws. Might also want a long handle set if you use a hex screw for your pistol grip like i do.
  
• Torque Wrench - I have this Tekton torque wrench for barrels nuts, castle nuts (if you do torque yours, i don't usually), and whatever else needs to be torqued.
  
• Torque Screwdriver Kit - I have this Wheeler Torque Wrench/Screwdriver set, super handy for screws that require a certain torque spec.
  
   
  
  That's what i can think of off the top of my head, you probably won't need all of that if you only plan on building a lower first. It'll be useful down the line to get most of those tools, but i'd go with first:
  
  
• AR tool
  
• Bev Block/Vise Blocks/Reaction Rod
  
• Roll Pin Punches
  
• Vise
  
  If you have Amazon Prime, there's quite a bit of stuff you can get on there, it's where i got most of my tools.
  
   
  
  ^Edit: ^Formatting.

Life Pro Tip Addendum: For having Such a cool measuring belt to show off to your friends but using a sharp object and accidently cutting your wrist. Buy a Leather Punch.

Edit- Not being an ass I swear I have a belt I have done the same to. Also awesome progress!!

/u/streakybacon linked spiceBar's landing pad guide. Here's another post with sound clips demonstrating the difference the mod makes. He uses a clothes iron to flatten the landing pads to mitigate the travel reduction that the landing pads induce.

My hole-punched silicone mod takes more supplies and effort to do. I attempted this mod so as to avoid the travel reduction of the landing pads. I used a .010" silicone sheet but I think it's a little too thin to be very effective. I would recommend trying .015" or .020" if you want to attempt this mod. I first cut out 10mm x 10mm squares, then used this hole punch set (I used the 1/4" punch) to make holes on each square using a rubber mallet and a soft wood block underneath. This is very time consuming and costs more than the landing pad mod, but it makes sure all the keys are even with a minimal reduction in travel. It's worth it if you have multiple Topre keyboards you want to silence.

Another thing to note: Nearly all modification guides leave out how to open the Topre keyboard cases. Realforces are easy to open - you just need to unclip 4 tabs on the bottom front of the keyboard and the two halves open up. The FC660C requires removing one screw underneath the QC sticker, and then using a thin screwdriver or credit card to unclip the tabs in the seam between the two halves of the case (difficult to do). The CM Novatouch is built even more tightly and is the hardest to open. Same method as with the FC660C but you need to remove 4 screws on the bottom, and have to unclip even more tabs to open it up. The plastic will bend and you'll probably think you'll break the case but it should be okay if you don't pry the cases outwards too much. To separate the plastic plunger section from the PCB, you'll have to remove a bajillion screws from the PCB. Then, to remove the plungers from their housings you can pop them out with your thumb but it tends to break the tiny plastic tabs keeping the plungers in their housing - this doesn't affect the keyboard's function in any way but it's worth noting that you'll be doing a bit of damage. You can also try to carefully remove the plungers without breaking the tabs using a screwdriver.

I bought one of these a while ago from an Amazon vendor. It's heavy as fuck, but does the job.

EDIT: Don't know if you need other tools, but this seems like a pretty good deal too, since it also includes vise blocks and a front sight tool for not much more.

EDIT #2: You'll also want a roll pin punch set if you don't already have one. A roll pin starter set and a rubber/plastic mallet are nice to have but not absolutely needed.

Very nice quiver and thanks for my next project. I really love working with leather.
For those who want to get started it's not that expensive of a hobby. As for leather it's actually fairly cheap and most projects don't go over $25 in supplies. It's about $100 to get the tools you'll need and although their not top of the line they will last quite a while.

Tool 1 |
Tool 2 |
Tool 3
Tool 4 |
Tool 5 |
Tool 6 |
Tool 7 |
Tool 8 |
Tool 9 |
Tool 10

If you want a clean cut that is very easy I highly recommend a knockout punch.

https://www.amazon.com/Central-91201-Manual-Knockout-Punch/dp/B0012F8GCQ

You drill a small hole to get the tool through and then punch out the hole in your kettle. Takes less time, looks better, and makes a cleaner cut. Fair warning some are sized in inches and others by the size of pipe that can fit through (like the link below) it so read before you buy.

https://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-10-pc-60575.html

The chassis is important for shielding. I highly recommend BUD for these. They are inexpensive and you can work the soft aluminum chassis with hand tools and a punch kit like this. Depending on how much time you want to spend, you can make very attractive-looking devices with these.

Grounding is important in building a preamp or any kind of electronics handling low-level signals. The usual way is to have one chassis ground point as close as possible to the input connectors.

This one here

(Make sure to use Amazon Smile and donate to your favorite charity. More than a few pro-2A ones to choose from.)

Thanks for the interest. I used 2-3oz economy leather from Tandy Leather. Here's the list of tools I used:

• Swivel Knife
  
• Nylon Mallet - I have the Al Strohman version, got on sale.
  
• Beveler Stamp - Perimeter edge
  
• Background Stamp
  
• Wing Divider - to mark stitching line
  
• Hole Punch
  
  Finished with:
  
• Saddle Tan Antique Gel
  
• Neatsfoot oil to soften
  
• Tan-Kote to seal/protect the leather
  
  Hope this helps

I think it's smaller (5mm or 3/16in maybe?), but any craft store will have punches in a variety of sizes. You can also get adjustable punches that allow you to select the size by turning a wheel, like this leather punch. Useful to have around for DIY projects other than watch stickers, too!

This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.

I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.

The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.


Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80

Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M

Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0

Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE

Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2

TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680

TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW

IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0

Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E

Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D

Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF

TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH

Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5

Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

I use the Wheeler Set. I would also suggest the Starter Punch from CGW for the more stubborn pins. If you don't have a bench block I would get one of those too. A universal bench block will work fine but I would get the CZ Bench Block to make things a bit easier.

For polishing, some 600 grit, 1000 grit and 2000 grit sandpaper and some diamond stones from brownells would work just fine. Just follow the guides carefully and don't take too much metal off of the crucial areas.

Wheeler stuff is okay for one or two builds, but if you plan on tools lasting I would buy them separately. I bought wheeler initially and now have 8 ar's and have re-purchased all tools because the wheeler stuff doesn't last. I like the tapco intrafuse wrench because it has the necessary bottle opener, roll pin punches, plastic/metal hammer, allen keys, PRI upper block, pro mag lower block and if you have a free float handguard I use this spanner.



Edit: On my armalite ar-10t, the FF handguard requires a strap wrench so keep that in mind if you plan to deal with those.

I tried the other methods such as various vice grips with electrical tape, and I still ended up scratching the shit out of my lower. This time around I bought some decent roll pin punches off amazon here and here.

Its much better having the correct tools in my opinion. Plus the ones I linked are from a company called Grace, made in the USA (Michigan)

Personally, I like mid length gas system, but for the money
This has a carbine gas system and would be a better bang for your buck. All you'd need is a lower, Anderson would be just fine. Hopefully where you live you could still pick one up for around $50.

Buy this armorers wrench

Buy this roll pin set.

This is completely optional but if you've never built one before it will save your ass.

Machinist here, That's an automatic center punch. They work great for shattering window glass! LPT, turn your face away and wear some hand protection...

You can look in to the FastCap Knuckle Bender . It’s handy for all sorts of hinge work, easy to use with gloves, and has a huuuuge hinge pin on it.

Also, the Spring Tools Hinge Pin Popper is tremendously quick and easy to use... But small, easier to lose, harder to use with gloves.

Bonus! These Wedge-It Door Stops were designed by a firefighter, come in a variety of colors, easily clip on to a carabiner, and are disgustingly durable.

This is the one I have. Expensive but super heavy duty and makes consistent clean cuts

​

https://www.amazon.com/2-5mm-Radius-Corner-Rounder-Cutter/dp/B00G2QUZO2/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=corner+clipper&qid=1563551158&s=gateway&sr=8-16

Here's a few really good gifts that I got recently:

Highly recommended:

• Gyokucho Ryoba $39
  
• Pocket Tape Measure $4
  
• Trimming Plane $7
  
• Harbor Freight small clamps $3 ea
  
  Other really good ideas:
  
  
• Gyokucho 10" $41
  
• Center Punch $7
  
• Awl $4
  
• Scraper Set $40

> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L7HOMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421281670&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Thanks for the link, I ordered them, might as well. Thanks!

Great! By the way, one of these may help with your strap. Just use a small enough punch that it doesn't rip into the next hole.

This was one of the best purchases I've made in the last year due to all of my weight loss as well

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-72-Leather-Punch/dp/B00004T7WS

Couldn't recommend it more. So easy to punch a hole and go.

Punch it out from the other side. An “oops kit” from ebay will have the extra parts you commonly need or loose. Use some lube for the hole and the pin before you try and put it in should make it easier.... Ideally you will want to use punches made for gun building specifically an “ar 15 rolling pin starter punch” It has a hollow point and will prevent the splitting and make it easier to start. I’ve found using some electrical tape around the areas on my lower I am working around helps prevent me from accidentally nicking it with hammers or punches. Good luck!

Looks like the same one I have (although there are 3 different radii styles). I have the 2.5mm which I use for everything - works great. If you're real picky you'll want all 3 depending on the counter size.

https://www.amazon.com/2-5mm-Radius-Corner-Rounder-Cutter/dp/B00G2QUZO2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1495730730&sr=8-8&keywords=lamination+clipper

Just a heads up: You can buy a window punch for like $10 and it takes up very little room in your glove box. Its a useful tool for emergencies including situations like this

If you buy from PSA, I'd recommend using a pre-paid credit card, as they've had site security issues in the past.

I think by "80% lower" you may have been thinking of a stripped lower, where all you have is the aluminum lower, with none of the controls installed. A stripped lower is s great place to start! YouTube has a bunch of easy how-to videos. I recommend /u/nsz85 videos, which I used for my first build.

Some other things you'll want to have handy:

Vice Block for Lower

Vice Block for Upper

Roll pin starter kit

Rubber Mallet

Torque Wrench

These are the basics, and once you buy them, you'll never have to buy them again for future builds. There's other tools out there to consider, but get you started.

Best of luck!

EDIT: shit, how could I forget the AR Wrench!

got this kit on PSA on sale a while back, VERY useful. I think all the bits separate would run you ~125 so def a good buy. Also these are good.

I used a 50 duro sheet with adhesive on it from amazon (currently out of stock, but this is what i've used on all of my boards).

I cut it roughly to size for the bottom of the case and then use these punches to cut out holes for the screw standoffs, the jumper panel and the USB connector (hint: if you lay it in the bottom of the case with the adhesive side still covered and push down, you will end up with little holes punched in the covering to the adhesive that you can use as a guide for the punches).

Once it's cut properly, you take off the backing for the adhesive and carefully place it in the case. It's a delicate operation because the adhesive is pretty tough and you really don't get a second chance (using the screw standoffs as a guide is really the best way to do it).

I've done this in about 6 boards now and it's always worked out really well.

Thanks for responding!

I can post pictures when I am home, but basically they kinda overlap and sometimes they go up, sometimes down, it's not neat. The front looks uniform though.

I am using flat chisel hole punches, which I am sure amounts to heresy. These guys: http://amzn.com/B00CBRMRNI

I used a stitching awl on a trial piece which was even worse. But until I can tweak my budget to work in diamond punches or better awls, those are all I have to work with. So it is quite possible that it's just an artifact of the tools I'm using and not my technique (for instance in cross stitching, how they say the crosses should all be in the same direction, otherwise the piece will look unfinished).

These things are dope, for 30 you can get a whole tool kit with ohm reader and 5 of these off amazon. The screw driver sucks but the rest of the stuff is great.

http://www.amazon.com/Liekkas-Scimitar-Stainless-Pen-shaped-Screwdriver/dp/B013EWKDVG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1459322858&sr=8-4&keywords=Coil+tools

I'll try to get some more pics up later when I get home from work. I had a friend machine it but aluminum is easy enough to drill that you could do it with a drill press. I wouldn't try a cordless drill with that diameter though. Another option is using a [knockout tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Central-91201-Manual-Knockout-Punch/dp/B0012F8GCQ), and then you could use just about any metal box you can get your hands on.

Heh yeah. Get something like this, maybe not as cheap, it makes drilling metal much easier and more precise.

Personally i would have punched the holes with something like these. I bought these to do my stitching and they work wonderfully. I then would just miss the second layer with 1 or 2 stiches and continue past the corner and start into it again.

Here is a quick bracelet i did with them
That was my first time stitching ever.

For sure, just take your time and you'll eventually develop a method for assembly of each part.

The hardest by far is installing the mag catch roll pin. Using a lot of electrical tape and a ChannelLock Tongue and Groove pliers, you can usually press it in carefully.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Channellock-12-in-Tongue-and-Groove-Pliers-440/100002119

I recently bought a set of roll pin punches and along with a small hammer, has made starting and finishing that part much easier.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019303727/ar-stoner-ar-15-roll-pin-punch-set-7-piece-steel

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Hammer-Punch-Plastic-Case/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1538439501&sr=8-10&keywords=gunsmith+hammer+set

Best place to start:

Buy this (which has all the parts you need except a stripped lower)

Buy a stripped lower

Buy a wrench

Buy some pin punches

You're all set for $600 out the door.

If I may recommend a better tool than the "cheap bits"....I built a HERMS kit a couple years ago with a single step carbide bit and one of these Manual Knockout Punch Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012F8GCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hsnOybVW95Y7Q

Anyone have a hole punch recommendation?

I started with a rotary punch that I bought when I made my wife a belt from a belt blank.

I recently bought a double shoulder on 8 oz veg tan for making more belts. I bought this kit for the holes:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KE17JO/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These things are awful. I'm pounding the shit out of them and taking forever to punch each hole. Looking for recommendations for a kit that will work better.

Yeah I'm looking at some on Amazon to be able to ship them with prime so they can get here sooner. As of right now I'm looking at this one. Price seems fair and looks to have everything I need.

http://www.amazon.com/Liekkas-Scimitar-Stainless-Pen-shaped-Screwdriver/dp/B013EWKDVG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451443114&sr=1-2&keywords=coil+building+kit

Roll pin starter punches are one of the best investments I ever made.

Otherwise... just tap them in with a small brass hammer and a pair of needle nose pliers.

A spring loaded center punch works very well. http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6580-Automatic-Center-Punch/dp/B0037UUO60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404833845&sr=8-1&keywords=spring+loaded+punch
The key to breaking tempered safety glass is to apply the force over a small area.

These are what I use. The nail sets are great too.

If u don’t like Wally try this it gives 1 extra wrench

I prefer US made tool so I bought starter punches at Amazon and regular punches at Brownells

vix bits make the world a better place and youre gonna want to take the door off this makes those annoying bottom pins jump right out and comes with what will be your favorite nail set or at least mine.

That's like $60 in tools.

• $20 wrench
  
• $10 handguard tool (which really isn't needed at all)
  
• $20 vice block
  
• $13 roll pin set

I have these:

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-89-Piece-Deluxe-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525651391&sr=8-4&keywords=wheeler+gunsmith+tools

and

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Hammer-Punch-Plastic-Case/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525651391&sr=8-5&keywords=wheeler+gunsmith+tools

When it comes to getting screw bits (if you're piecing together a set) it's important to make sure you get hollow grind bits as not to damage the screw heads.

You don't even need something that beefy to break car windows. They make keychain sized car rescue tools and a center punch will also do the job.

Just speaking as someone who has a legitimate use for them, anyway.

I have used Allen wrenches and small drill bits that I was willing to sacrifice previously. That being said...

https://www.amazon.com/America-Hollow-Steel-Starter-Punch/dp/B01BL4TW3Y/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1469788510&sr=8-12&keywords=roll+pin+punch

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Roll-Pin-Punch/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469788510&sr=8-5&keywords=roll+pin+punch

Punch sets can be had relatively cheaply. I bought the wheeler, though the hollow type might be better for your application.

You can buy these things called hole punches for getting started with a pilot hole exactly where you want it, then you want to use a step drill bit to the appropriate size. Make sure the bits are rated for the material you're working on, likely steel.

I'd recommend an $8 Amazon purchase.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-72-Leather-Punch/dp/B00004T7WS?ie=UTF8&keywords=belt%20holes%20puncher&qid=1465422789&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

Check your local sporting goods store or a smaller hardware store, like Harbor Freight. I know my local Academy sports sells some beginner's gunsmithing tool sets. I bought a Wheeler set (similar to this one), either from PSA or Amazon. comes with several punches, including brass ones, and a little brass/nylon hammer.

Pretty much any punch should work. If you have a leather punch then go with that.

Otherwise you can find some cheap hollow punches on amazon.

Full kit is about $150 and if you take it to a gunsmith they'll probably charge you about a hundred bucks.

You can save money if you do the work yourself. Buy an [Apex Armorer's Block] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K5ULZ9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LcuRzb3Y9Z9K6) and a [punch kit] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XduRzbYY6Z749), then YouTube.

Oh sweet. That's a tool I'd not heard of in that way (I thought of a different kind of chisel). Are these the ones?

loctite blue and aeroshell 33ms for the barrel install, also great for installing a freefloat handguard and scope mounts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ive found luck with this punch set, although the 3/32 did bend a smidge when I was pounding the hell out of it when pinning my gas block. also a rollpin starter punch set is a nice addition.

https://www.amazon.com/Fixxxer-Hollow-Stainless-Steel-Starter/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1480117372&sr=1-4&keywords=starter+punch+set

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012TKY0VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Even better thing to build coils on: roll pin punches

https://www.amazon.com/d/Center-Punches/Automatic-Center-Punch-Adjustable-Tension/B07BJMYRFQ

These work better because you don’t have to swing them.

get yourself a leather punch. it'll make your life much easier.

High quality punches make all the difference. Must be high quality tool steel. Grace USA - Steel Roll Spring Punch Set - RS7 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007WADKN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1Bf5yb210M8D0 get a cheap set of starter punches also. Quality on these is a non issue really. Squirrel Daddy Roll Pin Starter Punch Set Hollow End Stainless Steel USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QO2XGRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8Gf5ybCTYBDBY

You're going to want to use something like this. http://www.amazon.com/SE-7909LP-9-Piece-Hollow-Leather/dp/B0002964CC

Super helpful, especially with those tiny bolt stop pins, if you're building an upper or lower. At $5, its just good to have.

ETA - 21 left at 3:38 CST

ETA 2 - What kind of savage downvotes $5 shipped tools?

ETA 3 - $5 set is OOS @ 3:57 CST

ETA 4 - Stainless is $8 shipped if you have Amazon Prime

Nope. /u/wlxd left his referral URL in there, and I'm betting that's it. Here's a clean version of the link which should work and not get caught by automod.

For what it's worth, you can buy a belt hole puncher for less than $7 on amazon.

The only way to successfully crimp a micro MOLEX connector is with this tool

Almost impossible to screw/drill in tight spaces without this

Need to punch a hole in an electrical box without spreading hazardous metal chips everywhere? Use this

Need to tighten the connections under a faucet? Good luck doing it without a basin wrench.

Need to fix a Moen shower valve by replacing the cartridge? Your fucked without the Cartridge Removal Tool that is absolutely useless for anything else.

What about something like this?

A Leather Hole Punch, something like the one linked (but not that exact one).

How about something smaller then like a spring loaded center punch.

You could use a spring loaded center punch like this one to push the pin out:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037UUO60/

Once the head is out enough that you can get a flat screen driver our, just slowly pry the pin the rest of the way out.

It's snapped off at the bottom of that hole? Nothing you can do is guaranteed to work.

My favorite way is to use a center punch and a left handed drill bit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037UUO60/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XF3QYQ/

Push the center punch directly into the broken screw until it clicks. It's important to get as close to the middle of the screw as you can.

Next drill into the screw with the left hand bit (spinning the correct direction) until you go all the way through or the remains of the screw come out.

Since it's plastic, never use that screw hole again.

Then prebuilt might be best unless you know someone or you have a gunsmith that doesn’t charge something crazy.

At any rate, even with your budget you could just invest in the tools if you plan any future builds.

If piecing something out, most manufacturers include a barrel nut wrench which can be adapted to a 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar.

So you would just be in need of a vise and block. I got mine at harbor freight. Was 24$ something after a coupon. And I scooped a sweet vise pin block for 20$ at a gun show. I’ve built well over 30 guns on it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NO-M-A-R-Universal-Upper-Vise-Block-USA-Armorers-Gunsmith-bench-block-tool/123866382627?epid=1417692853&hash=item1cd7030123:g:2SYAAOSwT6pV3SD5

Pin vise I use is similar to this. Mine works on both ar15 and Ar10.

Vise from harbor freight
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-swivel-vise-with-anvil-61329.html


Amazon has a set of punches which will cover all bases for $10.
https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Roll-Pin-Punch-Gunsmithing/dp/B003L7HOMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=roll+punch+set&qid=1565363401&s=gateway&sprefix=roll+pun&sr=8-9

I use this one. Has yet to fail me.

Only other thing you’d need is a castle nut wrench. NC Star makes one for about 10$. Works great. Available at academy or on eBay

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/tapco-intrafuse®-ar-stock-wrench

Or you could just get one of these They will out last you I promise.

Roll pins are the worst, but a punch set with hollow ends like this one make them easier to deal with.

I use this

It works well, although the ohm meter could be a little more accurate.

You can solve this problem forever by getting a hole puncher. Shouldn't be much more than $10 at your local crafts store.

I would recommend not only the roll pin punches, but also the Hollow End Starter Punch Set.

and

a Utility Knife to get the pivot pin detent in.

Do you mean 24"? 14" is a biggish-sized bicep...gun belts go on your body, not your arm. You can always get a bigger belt and punch more holes in it. Use a drill or a hollow punch set and make it whatever size you want.

I got this set on Amazon about a year ago. Has been really solid for me. No issues. By GRIP company.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L7HOMG

I have one of these, it looks a lot like this with a handle and a punch plate. (I think this one is missing some punches.) Here's mine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7WS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_msGZAbDJPMC2K

A pair of channel locks?

Get a punch set and a roll pin start set.

Use the right tools for the job.

I cant imagine making.a large hole in the middle of someone's carpet. I'd terminate my own ends. But you can try this:SE 791LP Heavy-Duty 12-Piece Hollow Punch Set with Zipper Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KE17JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PIL6xbS7ZK0DP

eyyyyyy

Hollow punches

https://www.amazon.com/SE-791LP-Heavy-Duty-12-Piece-Hollow/dp/B000KE17JO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518233355&sr=8-3&keywords=hollow+punch+set

Automatic Center Punch - 5 inch Brass Spring Loaded Center Hole Punch with Adjusta... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJMYRFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_8JwIDbWYQXA9E

just get an automatic center punch

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6580-Automatic-Center-Punch/dp/B0037UUO60

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-72-Leather-Punch/dp/B00004T7WS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494270825&sr=8-4&keywords=hole+punch+tool

https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-6580-Automatic-Center-Punch/dp/B0037UUO60/

https://smile.amazon.com/Grip-Roll-Pin-Punch-Pieces/dp/B003L7HOMG

As a leatherworker your tools just some times wear out

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002964CC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YO644O1X57X3&coliid=I2N7S5KNGPJB62

or

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OINBRM0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YO644O1X57X3&coliid=I2E1867ME6DVUH

I know what you're picturing but the wheel on that tool is vertical and has round tube punches on it.
Edit: here you go:https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-02520A-Leather-Heavy-Gauge-Handle/dp/B0002T87FE

These are the ones I have;
Roll Pin Starter Punch Set Hollow End all Stainless Steel USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QO2XGRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KYAPAbNFX5CHX

Fixxxer Hollow End Stainless Steel Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n9bvybCFXCASK these hollow roll pin punches. You simply insert them in the end and hammer away.

help

Or get yourself one of those belt hole punchers

Punches for making holes in leather

You can also do it yourself.

auto centre punch

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6580-Automatic-Center-Punch/dp/B0037UUO60

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Leather-Hole-Punch-Tool/dp/B0002T87FE

I got one of these. You can pick the size of your hole.

Spring loaded center punch.

Buy these. Get the roll pin started with one of these, then squeeze it into place in a vise

I used these long roll pin punches:

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WADKN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this bench block so I had room to punch the pins the whole way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047WKF84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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and this is the hammer I used (kinda can see it in the picture)

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Z7GGKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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​

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I say you'll probably need them.

Look here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L7HOMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421281670&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Best tool for smashing windows is spring loaded center punch. However, I suspect that office tower windows might be laminated glass, so although you might be able to break it, you might not be able to get the broken glass out of the window.

Tempered glass, is pretty hard to break. You need a hardened glass breaker, or a really significant blow to break out a car window. Most of those cheapy fake glass breakers you see on knives and stuff, aren't actually hardened at all, and thus you rely entirely on your strength (and the small surface area of the strike face) to break the glass.

The easiest and cheapest approach is to keep an automatic center punch in your car. They're a couple bucks and you'll be able to break out in an emergency with minimal effort. The minimal effort part is something to keep in mind because you're probably going to be injured after a car crash, so you might not be up to the task of ape-smashing your way out of your car.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6580-Automatic-Center-Punch/dp/B0037UUO60/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457017401&sr=8-3&keywords=automatic+center+punch

30 bucks on amazon, and you can bitch to them and get a new set when you inevitably bend a punch or mar the nylon strike surface.

https://amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PZmwCb9WVZQ28

Same with the roll pin punch set. I've bent my smallest roll pin punch (gas block) a few times and the manufacturer just sent me a new one. I think it was less than $10.

IMO, the few bucks you're saving isn't worth buying used tools that you literally beat on with no warranty.

Also u need a price for WTB, please modify your post :)

Try buying a leather punch. Really cheap and will solve your problem.

I don't get why the other guy delete his post. I basically lost my shopping list. So I guess I'll ask you, any torque wrench I need? Also would roll pin set like https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Roll-Pin-Punch-Gunsmithing/dp/B003L7HOMG those be all I need?

Edit: Those roll pins seem bad quality. Could you direct me to some better ones?

Get a center punch. Old EMS trick of the trade. You don't have to worry about having room to wind up or possibly fighting gravity if you're the one in the car, and if you're not, you don't have to use it in the center of the windshield (i.e. not right in someone's face).

i'm not sure why people stopped using these...

conduit punch

right tool for the right job...

These will break about every kind of non-reinforced glass there is, no swinging, just put the tip on the glass and push. These things are too cheap not to be in the console of every vehicle I have. Get a little seatbelt/strap cutter and you've provided two vital tools for emergency egress for <$20.

Originally bought this starter set and this Punch Set.

Then when I decided to use a polymer lower for my AR pistol build, I ordered this combo starter and Punch kit

• Gas Block: http://aeroprecisionusa.com/750-lo-pro-gas-block.html
  
• Punches: https://www.amazon.com/Grace-USA-Gunsmithing-Gunsmith-Accessories/dp/B007WADKN0
  
• Wrench: https://www.amazon.com/Sports-AR15-Combo-Wrench-PJTW3/dp/B005LVMSD0
  
• Hammer: https://www.amazon.com/SE-8355HH-Dual-Interchangeable-Hammer/dp/B000Z7GGKQ/ref=pd_sim_469_26?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BZ7XM5ZR3F93RWF9NBA4
  
• Handguard of your choice, (M-LOK, KeyMod, Picatinny)
  
  
• Doesn't have to be these exact items. Just as a reference so you know kinda what to look for.
  

No problem, here is the link to the exact ones we use on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBRMRNI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - they are cheap too.

Punch set - http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Select-89032-Short-3-Piece/dp/B0060H8O0K
Roll Pin STarter Set - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191RFK4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Castle nut Wrench - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008H7PSUA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Vice Block - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PHEIW18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

no problem man.

Any basic knife will do

flashlight: https://www.amazon.com/Tactical-Flashlight-EdisonBright-Lithium-Batteries/dp/B00DR9GWX0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503516912&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=fenix+flashlight&psc=1

Screwdrivers:https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Precision-Screwdriver-Computer-CTK100P/dp/B0001NYK16/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503517004&sr=1-1&keywords=micro+screwdriver+set

Tweezers:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXXQHS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder Iron:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRC2XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder Sucker:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIPKOW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder Station:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LXL6AHM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder Iron Tip Cleaner:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PQ32EPA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Spring Punch:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037UUO60/ref=twister_B01IRD4F34?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Wire cutters:https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-TR-20-M-D-Flush-cut-Construction-Dissipative/dp/B00FZPM2AQ/ref=sr_1_15?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503517519&sr=1-15&keywords=soft+wire+cutter

Most likely, the interlocking surface between the clamp and the actual seatpost has been damaged by the seatpost working loose. One way to keep it from slipping is to mar both surfaces with something like a spring punch and maybe some friction paste, then tighten the hell out of it. If that doesn't work, you probably just need a new seatpost.

For my first few lowers I used this combo of things I grabbed from amazon...

• Armorer's wrench - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LVMSD0
  
• Punch/hammer set by wheeler - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SY07HU
  
• ar Pivot pin/roll pin install tool - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FSVWHHU
  
  I also used a pair of pliers and masking tape.. I built 4 lowers with that setup.. the pivot pin/roll pin install tool wasn't "needed" but it did make it so I didn't have to worry about the spring/detent flying across the room.
  
  I have since grabbed a vice block for upper and lower but I didn't need it for the lower.. Upper work you do need the vice block.. I also grabbed a much better set of punches as I bent a few of those punches from that wheeler kit on my first time trying to swap a FSB to low pro gas block.