Reddit mentions: The best hand tool cutters

I'm really sorry you've lost your fingers. That's so horrible. I myself work in a shop using powertools on a daily basis so I know the risk and how easily it can happen, it's one of my greatest fears and I wouldn't wish it on anyone. I hope you're coping alright all things considered.

There are definitely resources out there for you and people who can help. Here is one, I know there are more out there. I think there's one in particular I couldn't find.

Here's a list of a bunch of .stl databases.

Here's another list.

There's probably some overlap in those but that should help. I googled 'list of 3d model repositories' to find those, you may find more with similar searches like '.stl databases'. Add 'medical' or 'prosthetic' in there too, combine them and you should find some helpful search results.

There are also places online you can pay people to print stuff for you. But honestly if you find a model that you think works for your hand situation, please pm me! I would love to print it for you and send it to you probono if you want something from asap until you can print your own (I imagine you probably will have alterations you'd like after the 1st attempt) after you've figured out your printer. I'd be happy to help you get started as well if you have any questions at all. I have gone through the initial learning curve myself for about 2 years now so I know what you're in for challenge-wise. Check out the r/3dprinting subreddit, there's a lot of helpful folks over there, there also might be a specific subreddit for your exact printer. Yep, just checked, I believe it's r/MPselectMiniOwners. I've also gotten lots of help from 3dprinting discord channels (namely '3dprinters') Discord is a chat server program incase you're unaware.

Tools and materials wise, you will need only a few basic hand tools and filament. PLA will probably do just fine for your situation (you can use more durable filament later, PLA is just the easiest to work with and best for prototypes. Hand tools that I use are a metal spatula like these, and a pair of snips like these. I also regularly use 99% (highest % is best) isopropyl alcohol to clean my printbed surface. Also get a nice gluestick to help print adhesion to the printbed surface if you run into adhesion issues. That's about it, I have other tools and stuff I use but those are my most frequently used. You might want to get a decent set of hex head wrenches these are the ones I use, they work a lot better than allen 'L' style hex wrenches for working on your machine. That's assuming your machine uses hex head nuts though.

Also, Fusion 360 is the program I'd recommend looking into if you're trying to do your own modelling. It's actually pretty easy to learn, I used a site called udemy.com which offers cheap lessons (~$10 a course sometimes cheaper) that are very helpful. Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists.

Seriously though, please don't hesitate to pm me, I'd love to help you out if you're interested in that. :)

On the miniatures wargame? video games? or lore?

I'm going to assume the miniatures tabletop wargame since that's the main focus of this sub...

There are many ways to enjoy the hobby. That's probably the most important thing to realize at first. For most people Warhammer is a hobby, not just a game you pickup and play. There are a few board game like games in the warhammer pantheon that are less of a full blown hobby, but still require some model building before play. For the most part Warhammer (or tabletop wargaming in general) becomes a full on hobby that takes a good amount of free time. That's the point of a hobby really, to enjoy your free time doing something other than just mindlessly watching TV.

First thing to do is decide which of the many Warhammer games you want to play. For you, this is likely easy, as you have a friend trying to get you into it.

After that, you'll want to decide on a faction to play within the game you friend is playing. Examples are Space Marines, Daemons, Orks... To decide you'll want to look at the model ranges and read a little of the lore/story behind them. Pick whichever one calls to you, whichever seem "cool."

Once you've decided on a faction, you'll start small. Assembling and painting a single box to see if this is enjoyable for you. Pickup either a single starter box that includes your faction or a "Start Collecting Box".

Startup costs are not insignificant as there are tools and supplies you'll need. But once you are going the main supplies you'll need are expanding your paint collection and replacing brushes.

• Flush cutters to remove parts from the sprues. You can get fancy here but don't have to. A sub-$10 Xuron will give you quality cuts and be dependable at a third of the price of the nice (but $$) Game Workshop clippers.
  
• Files or scraper to smooth out the sprue marks (Durasand Twigs - Blue are my goto. I've got high praise for the Games Workshop Moldline remover tool, but it's an expensive early purchase.
  
• Plastic glue (aka plastic cement) to put the parts together. Tamiya Extra Thin or Deluxe Plastic Magic are my goto glues. They have brush on applicators making the glue less messy and more precise.
  
• A can of White, Grey, or Black spray primer to prepare the models for painting. Inexpensive Rustoleum or Krylon from a hardware store/walmart works well for your first set of models. Stick to White or Light Grey if you plan to use the new easy to use Citadel "Contrast" paints. Don't forget a mask to protect you a bit from the fumes of spraying the primer and later the varnish.
  
• Half a dozen to a dozen model paint colors to start out. Citadel, Vallejo, Reaper, or Army Painter are excellent model paints with a good range of prices. Paints are a big upfront cost, but thankfully model point pottles/pots last a long time. If you decide you want to paint like the box art, Citadel paints match up with games workshop tutorials. Otherwise, any of them well do.
  
• Eventually, you'll also want a spray can matte varnish to seal/protect the models. That way paint won't come off on your fingers as you play. Testors, Army Painter or Citadel make a good spray varnishes.
  
  .....
  
  If you are less into the hobby idea, but still want to play some tabletop games with Warhammer miniatures, look at the Warhammer Underworlds line. it plays like a mix of miniatures game, deck building, and boardgame. But the models are already pre-colored plastics and push to fit, so no glues or paints needed to play. Just clippers.

Beyond the standard screwdrivers/metric allen wrenches/etc that you'd have for your job, there are a few things that are good to have on-hand. I'll give a bit of an overview of what I use regularly and consider pretty essential.

Calipers. When you want to make prints designed to real-life sizes (rather than just artistic models), calipers are almost essential. I've got some digital calipers that I got on amazon for $30-40 and I use them constantly.

Flush cutters. Little cutters like these are amazing for working with 3D printing. I use them to cut filament for a clean end to feed into the printer, to clean supports off of finished prints, cutting zip ties (which are sometimes used to hold 3D printer belts cleanly), little stuff like that. Get yourself a set for $5-10 and dedicate them to the printer; keep them reserved for soft-ish plastic to avoid killing the edge, use something else for cutting metal and thicker plastic.

Scraper. Many printers come with one, but you definitely want something like a fine-bladed putty knife or something similar. It's not uncommon to need to pry a bit to get a print off the print bed (depending on the bed surface), so having something to pry with is nice.

Thin tweezers. They don't have to be anything fancy, but tweezers are useful for grabbing little bits of plastic that came out wrong before they mess up the rest of the print or other little stuff like that.

There are a lot of other things which are useful to have on hand, but somewhat less essential. Here's some of what I have and use.

High-purity Isopropyl Alcohol and a clean cloth. I have a PEI print bed, which works great. I keep some 91% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle; every few prints I'll give the print bed a spray or two and wipe it down with a microfiber cloth. It does a great job of keeping the print bed clean and letting prints stick well (and PEI releases prints well once it cools down).

Scale. It's definitely not essential, but it's nice to have a small scale that can give weights in grams, since it'll let you know how much of your 1kg spool is remaining and lets you weigh things quick and easy.

Small flashlight. It doesn't need to be something fancy, but I keep a cheap little flashlight near my printer for when I need to look at some part or detail and it's in a weird spot or I don't want to turn on the big light.

Small blowtorch and/or heat gun. Great for making little stringy retraction issues shrivel up and go away, restoring the color of a section of print that turned white from removing supports (from plastic fatigue) and whatever else. I've got a little butane torch that works great for doing those sorts of things.

Dental mirror. Definitely not strictly necessary, but it can be handy for seeing up under your print head without spending a couple min moving it up to the top and bending your head at an awkward angle.

Sharpie marker. Being able to write on or label a print is handy. There'll be times when you're tuning the printer settings or something similar and want to make a note of what settings you used for that print that you're tweaking for other prints; Sharpies do the job well.

There are also a few consumables which are very handy to have on hand if you're making any kind of mechanical print or doing any printer mods.

Small machine screws, especially metric. I've got a couple boxes of M2-M5 machine screws and nuts in various lengths that I use for prints that need to be fixed together or for any printer mods that need to be mounted. A $10-20 assortment box on Amazon will last you a good while.

Zip ties, in an assortment of widths. They're just really useful for tying stuff together. You've probably got a bunch already laying around, but it's worth mentioning.

Superglue. It's great for gluing prints together; I keep some thin CA glue and also some gel CA glue on-hand for gluing prints together. Just don't get your fingers stuck.

I'm sure there's also other useful stuff that I'm forgetting that someone else will mention.

As to the humidity, it really depends on how humid your house actually gets. Given that you're in Florida, however, you probably want at least a bit of protection for your filament. I'd suggest getting some kind of airtight container and some rechargeable silica beads. Keep the filament in the dry container as much as possible and cook the water out of the beads as-needed and you should be fine without having to actively dry out the filament. Just keep an eye on it and tweak your setup if you're having issues due to wet filament.

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
   
2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
   
3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
   
4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
   
5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).
   
   There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
   
   

• Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  
• 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  
• Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  
• A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  
• An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  
• A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  
• Small bags (for silica beads),
  
• PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  
• Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  
• SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  
• Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  
• Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  
• E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  
• Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  
• Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  
• And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...
  
  Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
  
  ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!

I think you're going in too heavy with that paint set but it's up to you. I certainly have never bought a paint set. With the majority of kits you'll be making will probably use four or five paints per model when you start out, most of the time washes account for the most colour. Army painter make some really nice brushes/sets also paints, they are really good but half of those paints you may never use.

I research the kit I'm making, acquire the relevant paints, usually either vallejo, mig, ak or Tamiya. I have a real mix. This way I don't have any redundant paint, in the long run it's probably more expensive than just buying a set, but I can certainly say i've got no paint that i've never used.

For washes, I'd just get some oil paints, like winsor newton, some odourless turpentine. Once again, this is cheap, buy three or four colours and a pot of turps, a cheap brush a palette and you can make any colour you want. Some places like this do 4 for 3, the small tubes will last you years and years. There are some great videos on youtube for making washes with oil paints. I'd just get burnt umber, burnt sienna, maybe a green, blue, yellow and black.

You need a gloss clear coat, something like Mr Topcoat gloss is great, its acrylic so if you use enamel/oil paint washes over the top it won't ruin your base coat, and then finish the model with a matte or satin coat.

Take a step back, find a kit you want to make, see what paints you need. Get a brush set, get a can of spray primer, personally I'd use Tamiya's fine spray primer, it's cheap and really fine. Be very careful not to flood a model's detail though.

I'd go with a cheap pair of Xuron's, I started using them for my 3dprinter and now use them for modelling too, they're so cheap and sharp, the pair i've had now for well over a year and still work great. I use to treat cutters as expendable items but these seem to have stayed sharp the longest.

Either Tamiya thin or Mr's is fine, I use Tamiya as have done for years and never had any issues with it.

If you've saved some money with not buying a paint set then think about getting some decal setting solution like microscales set and sol.

I'd also recommend using companies like emodel, hannants, or a local hobbyshop. We have some great resources in the UK for scale modelling and often you'll find free shipping and cheaper stuff than on amazon at a lhs or an online reseller.

Edit, I should add, get a good hobby knife, Xacto or similar with replaceable blades. A set of fine needle files is useful as is either sanding foam, sanding sticks, sand paper of various grades.

Ohm's Law

Current = Voltage / Resistance. Probably the single most important thing you need to understand to keep yourself safe. Steam-engine.org is a very handy site for rebuilding, and it has a simple Ohm's Law calculator. This will allow you to determine the current (amps) and power (watts) at a given resistance and voltage. When determining the current for a build on a mechanical, you always want to use 4.2v for your voltage setting since that will be the voltage of the fully charged cell. Setting your voltage as such and lowering the resistance on the Ohm's Law calcultor, you will see the current increase. You want to keep the current below the max continuous discharge rate for the battery, and just to be safe, I like to keep my amps at least 10%-20% below that max continuous rating. So you can see that with a fully charged battery at 4.2v, and a build with a resistance of 0.21Ω, you would be right at 20A.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law

http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp



Batteries

If you are mainly looking to sub-ohm, don't bother with 18350 or 18490/500 batteries, and stick with 18650s. The most important part of the battery specs for safe sub-ohm vaping is going to be the max continuous discharge rating for the cell. A few months ago, I would have only suggested Sony VTC4s or VTC5s, due to their 30A continuous discharge rating, but due to price gouging and a rash of fakes due to limited availability I don't think those are going to be your best option. Next best thing at the moment is either the Samsung 25R or the LG HE2. Both are solid 2500mAh batteries with 20A continuous discharge.

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18650-samsung-inr18650-25r-2500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18650-lg-icr18650he2-2500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html



Charger

The most important part of your gear to prevent your house from burning down, definitely don't skimp on the charger. I have an Efest LUC v4 which works wonderfully, and the Nitecore i-series chargers are also great, and you can't beat the price for the quality.

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers/efest-luc-v4-charger.html

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers/nitecore-intellicharge-i2.html

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers/nitecore-i4-intellicharger-2014-edition.html



Ohm Meter

Having an ohm meter is a must have when rebuilding. This is going to tell you what the resistance of your build is once you get it on your RBA. The last thing you want is to vent a battery in a mod you are using, and if you have a short in your build, venting is definitely a possibility. You can just get yourself a cheap multimeter from some place like harbor freight, but I prefer the ohm meters that have the 510 connection. Less hassle, and it gives you a nice solid base for building on your RBA.

http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html



Wick

There are a number of different wicking materials in use, but the most common is cotton. I started out using organic cotton balls from my local pharmacy, but now I only use japanese cotton pads. The japanese cotton has blown up, mainly because of its form factor (very easy to cut strips to size from a square pad) and excellent wicking ability.

http://www.sephora.com/pure-cotton-P300602

http://www.cvs.com/shop/baby-child/bath-skin-care/cotton-swabs/cvs-100-cotton-triple-size-organic-cotton-balls-skuid-405326



Wire

There are also some different types of wire available, but the most used (by far) would have to be Kanthal. I generally suggest picking up a couple different gauges to start. At the very least, I would say grab some 28ga and 26ga. If you are planning to try building below something like 0.4Ω, I would also grab some 24ga.

http://www.lightningvapes.com/products/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire



Wire Snips

Soemthing to cut your wire, whether it is a small pair of wire snips, or even a set of nail clippers will work for most common gauges of Kanthal.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418241774&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+snips



Coil Jig/Mandrel

You are going to need something to wrap your coils on. A lot of people use drill bits since they have standardized sizes and that will help you determine (using something like http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp) how many wraps at a given inner diameter will give you the resistance you are looking for. You can also get small coil jigs that come with a set of rods of varying diameters. I prefer to use something like a jump ring mandrel. It has multiple diameters on the one tool to wrap on.

http://101vape.com/accessories-/362-rba-coil-jig.html

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010836/1926001-vaping-coil-winding-jig-tool-for-rebuildable



Mechanical Mod

This and the section about RBAs is going to be very subjective. Plenty of mech mods out there function perfectly well, so when it comes to picking your mech, a lot of it will be aesthetics and form. In the end, all the mechanical mod is is a metal tube with a switch at one end and a 510 connector at the other. The two things that I tend to focus on when looking at a mech mod are how well the button functions (nothing more annoying to me than a crunchy button), and will I be able to easily adjust for battery rattle. There may be other feature that you are more concerned with, like does the unit have some sort of locking ring to prevent unintentional firing of the mod. Something to definitely consider if you are going to be carrying the mod in such a way that it could accidentally fire without your knowledge. I guess I will just link some of the mods that I prefer, like the SMPL, Pegasus, Colonial, and Vanilla. And I may as well throw a link in there for a Nemesis, since it is the go-to suggestion for first mech mod, and still a solid mod. Also, keep in mind that most if not all of these mods come in multiple color and/or metal options, including copper, brass, and stainless steel.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010820/1924800-smpl-style-18650-mechanical-mod

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008266/1739802-pegasus-style-mechanical-mod

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008332/1910000-penny-v2-style-18650-copper-mechanical-mod

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008560/1776902-vanilla-style-mechanical-mod

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009160/1448300-nemesis-style-mechanical-mod




RBA

So when it comes to rebuildable atomizers, you basically have two options. Either you will be using an RDA (rebuildable dripping atomizer) or an RTA (rebuildable tank atomizer). Your RDAs have you dripping juice directly onto your coils with relatively little juice in reserve, whereas your RTAs have a tank that is filled, and then juice is wicked from the tank to the coils. As a general rule, RTAs give you the ability to have to fill/drip less often, but tend to be more restrictive on build space and airflow. On the other hand, you will have to repeatedly drip juice onto your build as you vape with an RDA, but will have more options for different builds and be able to provide the necessary airflow for hotter builds. Again, these are just general rules, as specific models of RDAs and RTAs have different features. As far as breaking down the specifics on all the different models of RDA and RTA...yeah, there are just too many to even start. Recently, I have mainly been using a Mephisto v1 clone. I like having the ability to run either dual or single coil, I like the changeable airflow rings, I like the available airflow, the well isn't too small, and it has large post holes and screws. I am also going to throw in a link for the TOBH, since it is the obligatory "first dripper" suggetsion. Since this single item is probably going to do the most to affect your experience, I would suggest just taking some time and looking at what RTAs and RDAs are available, and then check out some reviews of them on YouTube.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009074/1802100-mephisto-style-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007863/1716603-tobh-atty-v2-style-rebuildable-dripping-atomzier

Hey! Great questions! And good on you for asking them!

Part I
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So first off, building your own coils is ABSOLUTELY the way to go, it is much cheaper, more customizable, a better vape, and just plain fun. You are going to need a few things though.

• Wire. Start with a mix of different gauge Kanthal.
  
  
• Wire cutters.
  
  
• Ceramic tweezers. These are for adjusting your coils once they are installed.
  
  
• A coiling jig. You can use anything from a nail to a precision screwdriver to a syringe, however I very strongly recommend this set.
  
  
• Cotton. I've tried every brand of cotton out there, they are all the same. Just go to your local CVS/Walgreens/Whole Foods/Walmart/etc and pick up a big bag of cotton balls, they will last you a life time for about $5. Seriously, a life time.
  
  
• [Optional] Ohm meter. This is only optional because you are using a regulated device, it is required for mech mods. The Kanger will not fire if your coil is bad or too low of a resistance (about 0.4 ohms in my experience).
  
  Now that you have everything you can go to town! Remember, all of this is just my personal opinion and experience, do what works for you.
  
  ------
  
  Planning: The Kanger works best at around 1.19 ohms at 50 watts but can go as low 0.4 ohms. To get an idea of how factors like different wire gauges or multiple coils will affect your resistance try simulating it on this page.
  
  ------
  
  Wire Work: There are plenty of videos and tutorials out there for different coils but my advice would be to start simple. Once you can build a coil that has good tight wraps and learn how to remove the hot spots from it and are generally just comfortable coiling then move on to more fancy builds. The advantage of (almost all) advanced coils is more surface area for better wicking and juice retention, there are also the offbeat ones like staged (dual) heating. I am a big fan of simple twisted wire coils, they are incredibly easy and work much better than simple single wire coils.
  
  --------
  
  Prepping The Wire: When you pull the wire off the spool be careful, if you don't hold tension the whole thing is prone to come unwrapped rather quickly. Work in longer lengths than you will actually need, screw ups are frequent and wire is cheap. Cut off a length of wire and you'll notice that it isn't exactly straight, or really at all, but this has an easy fix.
  
  
  To straighten your wire: At one of the wire make a small 90 degree bend, insert this end into your drill with the wire centered and the bend sticking out the side, the bend allows the pincers to grab onto the wire. Grab the other end with a pair of pliers and apply light pressure (too much will cause the wire to snap). Start up your drill noting the direction it is spinning. It doesn't take more than a second or two, if the wire snaps it has spun more than enough (it tends to snap at either end but can be in the middle in which case you have to start over).
  
  
  Annealing the wire: Thin wire like we use tends to be 'springy' making your coils unwind when you release tension, the thinner the wire the worse it gets. But again I have an easy fix. Holding the wire straight with tension, either with a vice grip or the drill or pliers or whatever you have, use a BIC lighter or a small flame to apply heat along the length of the wire. You want it to just start to heat up, not glow orange, if you see smoke coming off the wire move to another area because that one is done. Some people recommend dunking the wire in water when done but I just let it air cool.
  
  [Optional] Making twisted wire: Take however many strands you wish to twist up and line up all of the ends with the 90 degree bend, cut the other end so that they are all equal lengths. Before inserting into your drill I find it helps to make a few 'starter twists' to keep the wires even and from coming undone. Remember how I said to make note of the direction your drill is spinning? Well it is time to spin in the opposite direction. Clamp your wire down in your pliers (not the drill) with the bent end sticking out a few millimeters. Grabbing the wires by the bends twist them by hand a couple times in the same direction as your drill is now spinning (opposite of the direction you used to straighten the wire). Now you can insert them into your drill. Start the drill slowly and don't go past a medium-high speed overall or the wire is more likely to snap, if it does it will 'unstraighten' on the end near the drill and become a mess to work with. If you are using a long length of wire (I would say over 8" but YMMV) it is best to release the wire halfway through and insert the opposite end into the drill (you do not need to reverse the direction of spin on the drill, it will work as is) because the end nearest the drill will twist the fastest this will provide a more even twist across the entire wire. It is totally up to you how much you want to twist the wire, if it snaps though it means you either went too fast on the drill or it has reached its limit of twisting (you can usually reinsert it and get a few more seconds of twisting out of it though).
  
  -------
  
  Building a coil with the linked jig: I'm only going to cover using the jig I recommended up above because if I didn't I would be here for all eternity, ask 10 people how to make a coil and you will get 12 answers. That jig is super easy to use, cheap, and makes coils better than you ever will be able to by hand.
  
  Start by selecting the inner diameter of your coil, the jig provides nails ranging from 1mm to 3mm. Unscrew the cap from the base unit, insert your chosen nail, and screw the cap back on over it. Insert your wire from the top through the small hole on the base and grip down on the end of the wire with your thumb, you only need to pull the wire down to where the cap screws on to get plenty long leads. Taking the other end of the wire (the long portion sticking out the top) give it a small start around the nail, a quarter or half turn is all it needs. Put the piece with the corresponding size hole (the piece you the nail is originally stored in / marked with the sizes) over the top of the nail, push it down making sure the wire is between the screw and the nail. Twist the corresponding piece to wrap the wire around the nail, this requires almost no pressure if you do apply pressure you will end up with a pancake and not a coil.
  
  Once you have however many wraps you want push down on the base piece and the corresponding piece to put pressure/sandwich the coil. Hold this for at least 30 seconds to a minute, it will help tighten the coils and keep them from unwinding. Some people pull on the wire leads with pliers to tighten them up but I do not like doing this personally because it changes the number of wraps as well as causes the leads to be made from part of the coil (as in not straight leads).
  
  -------
  
  Mounting your coil: Insert your coil leads onto your post and tighten them down. Be careful about over tightening or having your leads at strange angles as this can cause the coil to bend such that on one side the wraps do not touch and on the other overlap, it can also cause other weird deformities that ruin all the work up to this point. Roughly position your coils, using the nail from the coiling rig will help to keep the coil from getting bent. Make sure the coils are not touching anything as this will cause them to short. Clip your leads.
  
  With your mod on a low to medium power setting begin to slowly pulse the device until the coils begin to glow. You want them to glow from the inside out, evenly, and at the same time. This will pretty much never happen right away. You are looking for spots that heat up unevenly. Using your ceramic tweezers squeeze and manipulate the coils, this is hard to describe but you'll understand it right away I'm sure. You can also use the coil jig nail to turn the coil and tighten the wraps (i.e. if the coil was originally inserted parallel to the deck insert the nail and twist it upwards to a 45 degree angle or even vertical, the amount varies from coil to coil but you can tell very easily by looking at it as you twist).
  
  -------------
  
  Permalink to Part II: https://www.reddit.com/r/RBA/comments/3xo2lv/rba_coil_question_newbie/cy6qbta
  
  edit: Oh, and for those curious, I am currently running 3mm quad coils made from 2 strands of 32awg kanthal at 14 wraps each on the Sub Ohm Innovations RDA and the Kanger KBOX. They read in at 1.4 ohms and I fire them at 35-40 watts.

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.

But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...

• cheap tool set ($40) (total $40)
  
• torque wrench ($50) (total $90)
  
• chain cleaning tool ($10) (total $100)
  
• cable cutting tool ($35) (total $135)
  
• maybe chain pliers? ($10) (total $145)
  
  At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools
  
  
• some nice metric hex tools ($15) (total $160)
  
• some torx equivalents ($11) (total $171)
  
  Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier
  
  
• tire levers ($9) (total $180)
  
  If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.
  
  
• Portable multi-tool ($25) (total $210)
  
  I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)
  
  
• work gloves ($20) (total $230)
  
  There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.
  
  And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.
  
  Best of luck
  
  edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!

>He mentioned that your armies go obsolete like every 2 years! Is this true?

No, not really. New rules will come out every few years, which may force you to alter the roster of models and wargear you’re fielding, but models are almost never written out of the game.

>Should they just start with A Start Collecting Pack?

Yes. Start Collecting packs are fantastic.

>This pack would be a 500pt or 1000pt?

Start Collecting packs are closer to 500 points. There isn’t an exact point number because you can change the number of models in a squad or give them different wargear.

>Co worker also suggested taking them both to GW to see if they can even get their head around playing the game as the rule book is pretty intense…

Yeah, going to a game shop and having someone experienced walk you through the game is a pretty good way to get a handle on the basic rules. GW shops love new people, although they tend to be very pushy salesmen.

>Or should they get a Rule book to read. Then their codex. One wants Necrons the other Dark Eldar. And then decide on a 1000pt army and start buying/building/painting etc?

I’d say see if a game shop can give them a demo first before you commit to models and books. This stuff is expensive.

Don’t worry about what a 1000 point army is. It takes time to get there. I say…

1. Start with a demo. If they like it, move on to…
   
   
2. …the Start Collecting boxes, a small-format copy of the core rules from ebay, and the Codexes for whichever armies they chose. You'll also want primer, paint, brushes, plastic glue and/or loctite superglue, a pair of sprue cutters, and some small files.
   
   
3. Once they’ve got a handle on the basic army rules that cover what they already own, use the codex to figure out what you’d need to add to build a good 500 point list, then 750, then 1000. Your ideas about what to include in your army will change as you gain more experience with your opponents.
   
   (Also don't let them buy new boxes unless the ones they have are already built.)
   
   Good luck!

Ah, okay. Still, super glue isn't a bad option for plastic.

Oh! The one other optional thing I forgot would be some kind of epoxy putty. It comes in strips of two colors, which you knead together to activate it so it will eventually harden. It's used to fill in gaps where you fit together pieces that don't fit together quite right (or imperfections in the model). The most common is "green stuff" made by GW (though I've seen other brands). Again, totally optional, but you can keep it in mind if you have a model that didn't come together quite right and you'd really rather fix it than let it be.

The way you thin your paint isn't the thing that's going to clog your brushes. Much more important is how you use and maintain the brush. Try not to get the paint deep down into the ferrule (the part where the bristles meet the handle), like by pushing the brush down hard onto the palette or model. Also, be sure to clean your brushes when you're done! A little soap and water is plenty. Some people occasionally use conditioner (it is hair, after all). I use this. It's great because you can soap up the brush after you get the paint out of it, reshape the point, and let it dry. It helps keep the brush in the right shape.

As for clippers, I just picked up the ones my local hobby shop had in stock. Xuron. They've worked great, and cut through plastic and metal nice and neat. Again, one of those things that are nice to have but not strictly necessary. You could also probably use something cheaper, as long as you don't try to get too precise (which might go off and scratch the model). Most board game minis won't have any use for them, but they'd be handy for something that comes on sprues like KDM.

And I'm glad to help! Let me know if you have any more questions. You can also go to /r/minipainting for more.

I've made several perches out of PVC (like your design but only one perch).

I got the PVC pipe and fittings for cheap at home depot. Probably cost $5. I bought maybe 2 long pieces of pvc pipe, and a bunch of elbows and a few Ts. I also bought a cutter like this for maybe $12, and it makes everything really really easy. I used 1/2" pvc for everything.

I've gone through several revisions, and my final design ended up looking like this

At the bottom, I put a tray like one of these. I basically built the bottom of the perch around the dimensions of the tray so it pops in and is supported.

The idea was to put absorbent stuff on the tray. I found dog training pads like this at costco for $16 for 100 and now wrap the tray and put it at the bottom of the perch. I can't stress enough how great this is.

I assembled the perch without using any pvc adhesive. This works fine and you can take it down any time you want. It's also let me tweak and adapt the perch over time. No fumes either.

I wrapped the cross bar of the perch with self-adhesive bandage like this. It's the kind of bandage that's not sticky, but sticks to itself. Goes for maybe $5 at target. My green cheek never falls off. She can fly to it and always gets hold of it. She can hold on so well, she can avoid stepping up at bedtime by backing up upside down and continue around until she's done a full loop.

At first I had a perch only, but later I replaced the elbow with a T, maybe 6" of pvc and another elbow. (hard to explain, look at the design). I drilled a hole in the elbow and hang toys on it of all types.

It comes up just about shoulder level. That way I can walk over to the perch and lean over so she can jump off and later walk by and have her jump back onto my shoulder. It's great for potty training. I put her on the perch, say "poop!" and when she finally does it, we whoop and holler and I lean close so she can be rewarded by stepping on my shoulder.

Wow, wall of text. Hope it encourages you to experiment. It's a cheap and forgiving project.

Glad it was helpful!

The RDA looks good, not sure the cost of a Plume Veil clone from eciggity, but you might wanna check - it'll come much faster and if you ever need to replace something, the chance of finding a part that fits is more likely, but again for $10, you probably wouldn't pay to fix that.

I'm not super familiar with mech mods, I've got two, but almost always use my Sigelei now, but just make sure you are familiar with battery safety, ohms law, battery limits, etc.

Other items you'll need (let me know if you need links for these items, you can get everything listed below of Amazon):

• Ohm Meter
  
• Good Batteries, I personally like Samsung 25r's, didn't check what size the mod you selected takes though.
  
• Nitecore i2 Battery Charger
  
• Tweezers, Ceramic makes it easier
  
• Kanthal wire, 26ga is probably a good middle point start
  
• Wick, you've got a lot of cotton choices, or rayon (cellucotton)
  
• Good Scissors for cutting wick
  
• Pair of Wire Cutters for Kanthal, I use this one
  
• Drill bits / precision screwdrivers for wrapping coils
  
• ...I'm sure I'm missing something, someone else can chime in, or I'll edit for anything I've forgotten.
  
  I hope this all helps, good luck and be safe, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use your ohm meter in conjunction with www.steam-engine.org
  
  Here was my last RDA build that I took pictures of, if it helps at all

1-It should, but you'll have to use the extension tube.

2-I'd suggest getting a good clone first. That way if you don't like it, you're not out $100+ dollars. I'll throw another vote in for the EHPro Kayfun Lite Plus V2 being about the best clone out there right now. Eciggity is a reliable vendor and they've got them for $35. They also have a "dual airflow hole" version for five bucks more. Either way, they're great quality and it's still less than half of what you'd pay for an authentic. If you end up really liking them, you can always splurge on an authentic in the future (and trust me, more Kayfuns is more better!)

3-It depends, but probably. A lot of the replaceable coil head tanks tend to use NiChrome resistance wire, which wears out faster than Kanthal. But regardless, you'll end up saving quite a bit of money over replacement Kanger or Aspire heads: a 100' spool of Kanthal is only around $6 directly from TEMco, and a bag of organic cotton balls is about $3 at most drugstores and WalMart. For the price of two boxes of replacement coil heads, you'll have enough wire to make literally hundreds of coils and one bag of organic cotton balls will last you months. It's a huge savings.

4-Same as most everyone else has mentioned: ohm reader (or digital multimeter) and drill bits (especially 1/16", 5/64" and 3/32") for sure. Wire "dikes" (aka nippers, aka snips, aka all sorts of different names) are handy, but a pair of nail clippers works just fine too. If you really want to get wire cutters, this Hakko CHP cutter is excellent and under $5 (or pick up something similarly small.) A "build stand" is really handy, and you can either buy one or make your own by epoxying a spare 510 connector into a piece of wood with a hole drilled in it. Not totally necessary, but it'll make rebuilding a lot less fidgety. I made mine by taking the base of an old EVOD tank (the internal "coil head" threads are actually 510), drilling a hole in a nice piece of flamed walnut I've had forever and epoxied it in with JB Weld.

Oh yeah, and a pair of small-tipped tweezers! Total lifesavers! A pair of needlenose pliers will work too, but I use my tweezers every single time I build a new coil and they're easy to get into small spaces. Totally worth the $4 at your local grocery store or Walgreens or wherever.

Ok, I see this is a bit touchy lol. But it's definitely worth investing in some form of set of tools eventually. Start small. A pair of cutters like this will do wonders in the beginning. A little sandpaper, you can get from the dollar store if you want. And a marker, if you really want to stay cheap with it, you can use a crayola marker and wipe away excess with a tissue or q-tip.

I want to share my hobby with someone who wants to get started, but remember, it is a hobby and it is still a model. It's part of what makes the experience awesome. You can start small and always revisit a kit if you want to make it look better. You don't need the marker or pen, but it does add a new dimension to the kit. An X-acto is recommended, but not required. The motor control happens with time and patience.

But I digress, just remember, this is a model. Like any other model, you can make it look amazing, but you need to also put forth the effort. Good luck on your kit and remember, it's about having fun lol. Or else why do it in the first place?

I'm in the process of building my first FPV drone with my 11 year old son. Tools I owned or have purchased for this are:

A set of small screw drivers. I found a set in the bargain bin at NAPA Auto that had straight, philips, a few hex, a few sockets.

A decent electronics soldering station. Not the gun. I have a digital Weller that is easy to control, but the analog is just as good for these purposes.

A third hand. There are many different kinds. I got a cheap $5 one at Harbor Freight. Not great, but does the job.

Solder, de-soldering wick, flux (maybe)

Depending on where you're doing your work, might want an air-filter or fan.

A magnifying lamp is helpful but not necessary.

An assortment of board stand-offs/spacers is handy.

A good small pair of wire snips.

Wire stripper

A digital multimeter is not a bad idea.

Those are all the major tools you might need. Plus all the drone parts. batteries/charger. Radio/receiver. Camera/receiver(goggles or screen).

In short, it's a lot of stuff. The drone parts end up being the least expensive part, honestly.

Above links are just examples, not necessarily endorsements.

You mentioned you're on a budget, which I totally understand. Building is not the cheapest route, but it's been a lot of fun so far. People who've done it for a while tend to forget the cost of tools. Once you've built one, subsequent drones are relatively cheap. You can re-use batteries, the charger, most decent radios, even the receiver.

If you're not in a hurry, Bangood is a good source for cheap(er) parts. You're on your own for support, usually, but there's lots of help out there.

Absolutely. I'd recommend the following if you are going to be sleeving existing PSU cables:

Tool | Price | Description

--------|:--------:|--------:
MFC Molex Extractor | $10.99 | This is the most important tool you'll need, don't cheap out here. This one from MainFrame Customs is the best I've used
Side Cutters | $5 | You'll want these to cut the sleeving. It works way better than scissors


Now those are the basic tools, if that's all you want to get away with then be very careful and take your time while extracting the pins. Otherwise you'll want the following to re-crimp the broken pins.

Tool | Price | Description

--------|:--------:|--------:
Crimping Tool | $23 | Great quality crimping tool, works for all PC pin types (atx goes in the larger slot :) )
Stripper | $41 | Great stripper, makes it very easy to get consistent strips, ideal for crimping, however you could use regular stippers
ATX female pins | $0.30 for 5 | Replacement pins

If you end up needing to get these tools, one benefit is you can cut your cables to the lengths you need which will make it very clean for cable management. Lastly, if you are going to use paracord and are not re-crimping the pins, I would recommend this Paracord threader. It'll keep the pins from tearing the paracord and make sleeving a lot easier. If you are going with PET Teleios Sleeve, you wont need it, as PET expands enough to make it easy to sleeve over the connector.

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Title | Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool
Description | Fasttech Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers https://www.fasttech.com/p/1926001 stainless steel / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm sections SKU 1926001
Length | 0:01:17


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Title | UD Coil Jig V3 - Demonstration
Description | UD Coil Jig V3 http://www.vapetime.co.uk This is a quick demonstration of the Coil Jig V3 by Youde Technology. For more information please visit: http://www.vapetime.co.uk/ud-coil-jig-v3/ If you have any questions please do not hesitate to call, contact us or leave a comment. We are always happy to help :)
Length | 0:04:00


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Title | Quick and Effective coil build for RDA atomizers
Description | ::EDIT:: It's a good idea to check your resistance ( ohms ) BEFORE you attempt to glow and fiddle with your coils. The resistance will change as your coils get more even. So check before, then check again after. Thanks. Hey everyone! If i'm being 100% honest. I mostly shot this video for my brother who recently got into the world of rebuilding. He was really struggling with it. Rebuilding has become such second nature to me that I often forget how it feels to be building for the first time and that sense of frustration that sets in quickly. So hopefully some other people will find this video helpful. Rebuilding honestly just takes practice and patience. ANYONE can do a solid simple build that will produce both great flavor and large clouds ( if you want ) The build in this video came out to 0.3ohms, which will work great on a mech mod, or on a higher wattage regulated device like the Sigelei 150w or iStick 50w I used 24g Kanthal, 6 wraps around a 2.5mm screwdriver. Below I have links to most everything I used in this video. Including some "beginner friendly" RDA atomizers. Precision screw drivers http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336275&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&pebp=1435336344707&perid=1M11EBNKQ3Z63A7B0VQ8 Wire Clippers http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336368&sr=8-1&keywords=Wire+Clippers 24g Kanthal http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Kanthal-Resistance/dp/B00JWYIHLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336391&sr=8-1&keywords=Kanthal&pebp=1435336399204&perid=0Q2SHF5N87Q64YJT5F9E Organic Japanese Cotton http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Organic-Cotton-Organic-unbleached-Largest/dp/B00P219C5Q Unfortunately the VapeKit has been discontinued. They are doing a V2 kit, but in the meantime check this one out http://www.coil-master.net/product/diy-kit Some good RDA's for new builders IMO Mutation X V4 http://www.vapordna.com/Project-Sub-Ohm-Designed-Mutation-X-V4-RDA-p/psmxv4.htm The Mako http://www.beyondvape.com/store/import-cat-c-1_2/beyond-vape-mako-rda-p-1927.html The IMP http://www.empiremods.com/product_p/youdimp.htm Thanks so much for watching everyone! hope this is helpful. Feel free to follow me on Instagram http://instagram.com/grimmgreen/ Twitter https://twitter.com/GrimmGreen Facebook https://www.facebook.com/GrimmGreen Also please remember that unless you make it so I can reply to you. I will be un-able to reply to your comments.
Length | 0:22:32






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Looks like a solid start to me! I would recommend not fully assembling your models before you paint them, some places can be hard to reach when fully assembled.

1. The army painter range of brushes is a solid starting point, I think they have a starter pack with a few essential brushes. Get a tub of brush cleaner and clean your brushes throughout your time painting, I like to clean them when I change colors. This will keep in good condition and extend their life!
   
   
2. I like the GW plastic glue, it melts the pieces together for a strong connection! Super glue is also good and if you need to change a model up you can freeze them and they will snap apart.
   
   
3. I like the GW brand primers, though they are expensive! I've used army painter before and had mixed results, some good some terrible.
   
   
4. I do not have any experience with sealers.
   
   Necessary Hobby Items
   
   

• Brush Cleaner
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Cutters
  
• Pin Drill
  
• Desk Lamp W/ Magnifier
  
  
  

Might be worth getting a solder wick for when you inevitably screw up. Solder vacuum isn't a terrible idea either. I have both, I use them for different things. A third hand is also useful. I find myself using the glass more than the arms but it's all useful. If the iron you buy doesn't come with one a brass ball is great for keeping your tip clean without cooling it off like a sponge will. Micro-cutter is useful, not sure if angled or straight is better, up to you I guess. Last but not least a pair of angled tweezers. You can get those anywhere.

These are all the things I have within arm's reach when I'm doing a project. Have fun!

Most people will suggest skipping GW for paint and hobby tools to save money. I suggest hitting amazon for a pair of flush cutters, set of needle files, and pack of testors model cement. Krylon camo black spray paint is a fine substitute for expensive primers. Vallejo paints are a top reccomended brand, and there is a conversion chart to convert old and new gw colors to vallejo colors.

A set of just standard tac marines is a great place to start, you'll use them for sure and theres plenty there to work on technique, hit up the warhammer youtube channel, as they have painting tutorials that are really great, watch as many as possible as each has something you can use even if they aren't painting space marine models.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPDG1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459352340&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=flush+cutter&dpPl=1&dpID=414t7uLh8KL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013E68SU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Starting out you should be fine with just a zero, but if you really have moneh burnig a hole in your pocket a 1 and 00 would also come in handy eventually. Never leave your brush sitting in your water cup, don't let paint dry in your brush, and keep paint out of the metal part.)


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013D53CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352997&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=testors+model+glue&dpPl=1&dpID=51QQU8wrc-L&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NPUKYS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352697&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=needle+file+set+for+metal&dpPl=1&dpID=412lincr%2B5L&ref=plSrch

Add an xacto and tube of superglue from your local superstore and you have all the tools needed to crank out perfectly acceptable models. I'll admit the brush is a bit overkill, but you're saving so much money on the rest of the tools, and a good brush makes the experience much more enjoyable, I suggest splurging there. Also don't bee fooled into buying a basing kit, regular old sand does just fine,

True. I meant the whole fraud but as a general statement, not directed towards you, or what you have mentioned.

A lot of these companies aren't bad to deal with if you're honest. And have good luck.

Didn't actually know they were glass reinforced, which makes total sense that they are. My limit to experience with drones is some little cheapies. I'd really like to get into it, just seems expensive (yet I've spent around $200 in Wera screwdrivers this year).

EDIT: Also, I highly recommend these little buggers for soft, fine wire. They will instantaneously deform on use of anything heavy, but it's an inexpensive mistake. Good, consistent build quality (on the whole 3 I've seen), good feel in the hand. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K

1. I use auto generated supports, but I use Chitubox for my slicing software
   
   
2. I think there is a google spreadsheet running around here that had good setting for the different resins. I’m on mobile so I can’t find it.
   
   Edit: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app#gid=0
   
   
3. People will tell you both. I prefer to take them off before it cures because it’s more malleable and doesn’t “shoot off” when I clip off the supports. It also clears the way so that the mini itself can get into the sunlight and be cured. But I’m sure there are people out there that will tell you to remove them after curing. Either way I fine I believe.
   
   
4. It’s also better to angle your minis when printing. 45 degrees on its back, so that the front of the minis has less supports (or none). Also whenever I print flat I had more failures for some reason.
   
   
5. Have fun! I love mine!
   
   Also to remove supports buy one of these and use the flat side towards the mini itself:
   
   Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I like using AVR's for quite a few reasons. Sharkamino linked you some really good options and I'm going to second that. If you're using this for music and home theater the AVR will give you the most flexibility and features. Going refurb is a good way to save money but still get some decent gear.

​

You could get by with a mini amp but honestly one with the features that I would want would be almost as much as a refurb AVR.

​

For cables I don't see going crazy with them. You'll need some speaker wire and that's about it. You can get banana connectors as they make it nice and neat but if you're not planning on changing out the speakers often bare wire is fine. A set of wire strippers would be nice and they will come in handy if you're getting into the hobby.

For other cables then Amazon Basics will do just fine.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I noticed a glaring omission from your coffers.

Lineman's pliers, I'd recommend these Channellock's, or if you have a few dollars more their Code Blue line. They also have models with fishtape pullers if you need them.

Other things you could probably use are a good pair of wire nips. You won't find a better value than these Hakkos, A non-marring hammer/deadblow hammer is quite handy to have around. A pair of needlenose pliers. A variety of precision screwdrivers or an encompassing bit set, I like this Tekton Everybit set (confession, mine was a gift from Tekton rather recently but it is still an honest opinion)..

And where are your safety glasses, hmm?

BTW That is a nice selection of tools, this isn't really criticism, just trying to think of things you might find useful that you don't already have...

So ideally you go to a local hobby store and look at what models they have, then pick one you like and within your price range. You can start off with 1/144 scale HGs (High Scale), but I am a firm believer that if you can follow instructions, you can start at any scale and any grade. I am a sucker for kits with cool box arts (like the MG Shin Musha). Get a pair of side cutters to help with [piece from tree removal] (http://www.ghostofzeon.com/diy/assembly/removingparts.html). Obviously, shop around to get a good price. There are a wealth of useful links and threads on right hand column under "Current Events" (not sure why it is under current events...) Other model kits include [Zoids] (https://www.amazon.com/Zoids-Japanese-Kotobukiya-Model-RZ041/dp/B003UTUEVI/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1481057397&sr=1-1&keywords=zoids), Evangelion, and even [Batman] (https://www.amazon.com/SpruKits-DC-Comics-Batman-Arkham/dp/B00L5KKUR2/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1481057500&sr=1-3&keywords=batman+model). There are also like tanks and planes and battleships...

Hangers with clips (Either alone or on the hanger). On the hanger is fun because you can usually slide them towards or away from each other, and the tension will hold them a bit in place.

Vice grips - the weight can be really satisfying

Binder clips - even better are the ones with the magnet on the end!

Alligator cilps

Jumper cables, but probably need some heavy padding.

Chopsticks and tight (small) rubber bands.

Almost anything with "clip" or "clamp" in the name. So, for instance, if you have those heavy-duty clamps that get used to hold down a tablecloth at an outdoor picnic, that can be fun. Or woodworking clamps.

There are also things you can do to up the intensity even with gentle things. Ex: after the clothespins have been on a while, turn them 90 degrees. Or go more for the edge of the nipple rather than the base. Or get a spatula/paddle and slap your nipples to get them tender first.

You can really have fun with anything that squeezes. I remember as a kid using two clipboards. It was tough to get the nipple in, but was a fun sensation.

Hope that gives you some ideas!

CHP-170 Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NYI1AbCK4Y43D

This one works perfect for me. Never tried much cutting with the tip but never overlaps and cuts pieces out perfectly, and a very tight fit when closed. Not expensive, in fact an add on item u have to purchase with a larger order, but might be able to find the same as a stand alone. Have gotten one for my gf and brother both and they have never had overlap issues. They are flush and I highly recommend.

Edit: they say flush in the description but might be the same as the other poster u/bluetrombonium linked to idk. But they work for me well and seem sharp, but again don't use tip cutting for anything.

Edit2: I think they are exactly the same but with red handles. Also 3 dollars cheaper for some reason but out of stock on the other site, but seem to have exact same specs. Probably this is your best bet lol https://www.hakkousa.com/products/chp-tools/chp-hand-tools/cutters/chp-170-d.html

If cost isn't an issue, then one of the all-in-one kits should get you just about everything you need: Resistance meter, micro screwdrivers, pliers, coil wrapping tool/mandrels, scissors and some tweezers(Preferably ceramic tipped)

If you're tight on cash, there's a few routes to go. If there's a Harbor Freight nearby, you can get most of what you need there.

• Micro screwdriver kit: Most of these kits have screwdrivers in the most commonly wrapped coil sizes so that you can actually use the screwdriver as a mandrel for wrapping coils. 2, 2.4, 3 and 3.5 mm are all the most common size of coils, and I have found that I can wrap better coils than the kits can. Here's the set I use. You can find these on Amazon as well, and for not a lot of money.
  
  
• Scissors: Most of the "All-in-One" kits are lacking in some way, and it's usually the scissors. The little fold-out scissors that are included couldn't cut through a wet kleenex. A good, smaller size set of scissors can be found at WalMart, HB, or Amazon and bonus if you're left-handed! You can get a set made just for your backwards hands!(I'm a lefty. I hate trying to use regular scissors for precision work!)
  
  Resistance Meter: Also referred to as an Ohm reader (shudders). If you're ever going to get into mechs, this is a necessity. Hell, when first building, it's a nice thing to have to check your build for shorts before you slap it on your mod. You can spend as low as $5 usd, or $35-$45 dollars for a Tab unit that can actually fire the coil to work out hot spots.
  
  Finally, cotton and wire. This has been bandied about ad nauseum about which type of wire and gauge is best, and the debate on wicking materials still comes up from time to time. So, I'll give you my two cents and leave it at that.
  
  Wire: 26 gauge kanthal. Why? It's easy to work with, provides good flavor and doesn't need to be run at insane wattage levels for great results. If high wattage vaping is your thing, get some 24 gauge. Better still, get both! I like 26 and 28 gauge(Twisted wire YAY!), you'll find your preference as you go. I didn't care for 24 gauge as it made the vape a bit too warm for my liking.
  
  Cotton for wicking? I swear by Labo Puffs. No "Fresh cotton" taste, easy to work with and lasts for EVAR. I'm still using the 120 pad bag I bought over a year ago, and it'll still be another six months before I need more. Here's the Amazon link for the Prime eligible pads. There are cheaper sellers, but they are in Japan and it can take a week to get to you.
  
  What's left? Wire cutters, of course! Nail clippers work alright, but something like this works even better!
  
  There's my suggestions and whatnot. Take or leave what you will, and welcome to the world of building!

A few tips to help you out OP:

1. Thin your paint. Generally, 50/50 is good starting point. For future note, buy paint brush cleaner and thinner at your local hardware store. Far cheaper and generally works fine.
   
   
2. You should get an Xacto knife and a flush side cutter like this. Use the flush cutters to get the parts off the spruce, and use the Xacto knife to clean it up. The box cutters you have don't give good control and unergonomic for most modeling work.
   
   
3. If you have a Michele's close by, get their general purpose assortment paintbrush pack. This gives you the flat brushes and quite a bunch of other brushes. The flat brushes are ideal for applying primer/base coat.
   
   
4. Go to your hardware store or automotive store and get an assortment pack of sandpaper.
   
   
5. The kit directions aren't always the way to go. When doing tanks/armor and most kits in general, I recommend following a modular approach. So for tanks, paint your road wheels, hull, etc before gluing it together. This makes it a hell of a lot easier to paint.
   
   
6. You should definitely buy some filler. You'll need it to fill larger gaps the glue won't be able to deal with.
   
   edit:
   
   A few other useful items you should get either now or later, most of this you should have around the house already:
   
   

• A fine point tweezers. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Anti-Static-Flat-Tweezers-Electronic-Repair/dp/B00880EDIO/
  
  
• Toothpicks
  
  
• Cotton swabs
  
  
• Compressed air can
  
  
• If you don't have good light in where ever you setup to work, get a good desk lamp
  
  
• A cutting mat like this: http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Cutting-Green-Black/dp/B0015AOIYI/
  

http://www.steam-engine.org/ (or there are plenty of apps for smart phones)

I recommend against B & M builds unless you truly trust your B & M. I've heard way too many horror stories hear about unscrupulous B & M's and their building practices. If you have a friend that build have them walk you through it and teach you the ropes, watch YouTube, post questions here, but be sure you know 100% what you are doing before you actually fire or vape off your own coil. Be safe, build safe, vape safe.

Snip them with wire cutters (I use something similar to this Amazon) or nail clippers. With a three post setup and doing dual coils I snip the negative posts but then use my needle nose pliers to bend the positive tails back and forth until they snap off. B/c I like this method I generally make the positive tails longer to make this easier.

How good?

Here is one that will last you pretty much for whatever no matter what you do with it, its the soldering iron I have used for the past several years and has been great on a number of projects: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/

Here is one that will do just fine but isn't great or anything:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC

The most important feature for a good soldering station is variable temperature.

The only other things you will need is solder:
https://www.amazon.com/WYCTIN-Solder-Electrical-Soldering-0-11lbs/dp/B071G1J3W6, a solder wick: https://www.amazon.com/MIYAKO-Desoldering-Wire-Handy-Dispenser/dp/B010VMHR5M, and possibly wire cutters if you don't have them: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K

Some personal advice is get the best one you can afford if you thing you will use it a lot, the difference between a okay one and a great one is huge. I hated soldering till I got a good iron.

I don't use a blowtorch or a lighter. When the coil heats up from the you can just adjust it easily with tweezers and the thing you wrapped around. OK well I'm too lazy to rephrase this, but here's a big list of scattered supplies:


$250 is way too much for what you listed, you can get way cheaper than that. Keep in mind you really don't NEED 100W to use an RDA. My homemade DNA30 is great for a cool vape on something with a bit more restricted airflow than the Mutation, but that will still work just fine. I would stick with your current Sigelei 30W until you know for sure you want to upgrade, because that is going to cost you the single most amount of money.

If you want the mutation x v2, grab it here for $30, its worth getting this one authentic and not a clone because its so cheap to begin with and most clones do not have the wide bore drip tip.

Japanese Cotton is what I usually use.

For the rest of your gear, Lightning Vapes has a good selection of well priced rebuilding supplies:

Ohm Meter $14.75

I recommend Ceramic Tweezers $12.95

I mostly use 28ga Kanthal (100 feet for $6.25) with my 30W box mod, with mechs I use lower gauges

I would also find a pair of flush cutters to snip wires as close to the posts as you can, and some nice small scissors to cut your cotton.

OH! Almost forgot, this is what I use to wrap my coils.

As a general rule of thumb, don't buy wire or wick from websites that sell mostly juice or hardware, it will almost always be overpriced.


If you want to get REALLY cheap and don't mind waiting, go check out Fasttech

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

• Nippers
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Thinning Medium
  
• Glue
  
• Glue Accelerant
  
• Brush Cleaner
  
• Palette
  
  Sprays
  
  
• Primer
  ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  
• Matte Varnish
  
  Brushes
  
  
• Brushes
  ○ Round 0
  ○ Round 1
  ○ Round 2
  
  
  All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby. Nt all of this is required, but it is nice to have.
  
  This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)

You can use either type of switch.

That being said, I'd recommend that you use plate-mount switches. Many people do use PCB-mount switches, but they're not really necessary since the switches fit quite snugly into the plate, and the plate is made of beefy stainless steel. Besides, if you use the PCB-mount switches, you'll have a bugger of a time getting them to sit flush on the PCB since those leg holes are smaller than the legs themselves.

One thing to note: if you've bought Zealios for your planck, I highly recommend clipping those legs for best results. You can use a pair of flush cutters to clip those things off quite nicely. (This is what I use on my Zealios.)

EDIT: Re-read your question. Hope this is a better answer.

I prefer the SRW9U myself, it's a more open design, which lets it dissipate heat passively, better. Also benefit of being cheaper.

You may want to make sure you can put ears on your switch to rack mount it, or get a tray for your rack to put it on.

You can get a better deal on the cat 6 cable by going with monoprice, $~45 for 500 feet of 23 awg cat 6, also available on amazon.

The trendnet tool will probably work for stripping, but I have a special fondness for my data shark.

https://www.amazon.com/DataShark-70029-Universal-Cutter-Stripper/dp/B000HRWOTQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1491910702&sr=1-2&keywords=data+shark

Any cat 6 panel will work. Just figure out if you want a board style, or keystone style. Keystone makes it a tad easier to add ports later.

Wireless AP - Look at the ubiquiti lineup, the AC lite is good for most.

Something something Kingdom Death...

Of the three I don't think any can compare to GW, especially considering GW uses plastic almost exclusively. Infinity makes some nice models but I was never a fan of painting pewter.

You'll pretty much always have to clean mold lines and fill gaps though. Even GW and KD, both do amazing work in plastic, have mold lines that should be cleared and gaps filled.

Make sure you're using the correct tool for clipping. You'll want a flush cutter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=pd_sbs_21_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000IBOOWQ&pd_rd_r=5KJZ0XRMB3R7355FNZAN&pd_rd_w=blY62&pd_rd_wg=jYgcH&psc=1&refRID=5KJZ0XRMB3R7355FNZAN

Scissors are no good. I got these clippers from Amazon. They are actually wire clippers, but the $5 is well spent.

All the models in the Misaki box are Ten Thunders, except Misaki and Shang (the totem) who are dual faction. However, Misaki has a special rule that allows her to hire four "Last Blossom" models into her crew regardless of declared faction, so if you declare her as Outcasts you can still hire the whole crew box.

Each boxed set comes with all the bases you need, so don't worry on that front.

For competitive play with the Guild Masters, you'd probably want to have both boxes as the Judge and Francisco are excellent henchmen, and Death Marshals are good minions, and Nino is a good Enforcer.

Ultimately when you get fully competitive (think: Magic the Gathering) you end up having every model in the faction.

• Get an arduino starter kit and start building projects.
  
• This is a good one for a good price.(it's twice that or more on amazon)
  
• and this is a good price for a batch of sensors(no arduino included)
  
• if you want to move stuff a batch of servos is fun
  
• a soldering iron is good
  
• this one is good for the price. I don't like the ones that adjust at the handle. I prefer a base station.
  
• need solder as well
  
• and a solder sucker
  
• flush cut wirecutters are good to have
  
• a good pair of wire strippers is a life saver
  
• Good idea to have a multimeter around for verifying resistance values and voltages
  
• this is a decent one for the price
  
• Need some breadboard for prototyping. I'd suggest at least 3
  
• and some protoboards to finalize your circuit(until you start getting pcb's made)
  
• some solid conductor wire
  
• I like these storage cases for keeping my mess semi-under control.
  
  That's about all I can think of for now.
  

Various tutorials are available on this website; I've included the one about welding parts together that would be most relevant to a beginner:

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/techniques/how-to-glue-parts-together/


Model Recommendations:

Airfix Zero, or a Spitfire Mk.22.

They both are new tool kits, cheap, should fit well, and have simple paint schemes. I have built the Mk.22 and the Spitfire PR XIX below; both fit very well and require minimal filling.

Don't pick camo paint jobs; pick something simple thats one to three colors with straight lines for color demarcations.

http://www.amazon.com/Airfix-A02017-Supermarine-Spitfire-Military/dp/B0021L9BNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416699&sr=8-1&keywords=spitfire+PRXIX

http://www.amazon.com/Airfix-A01005-Mitsubishi-Model-Building/dp/B0055ANHD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416717&sr=8-1&keywords=airfix+zero

Basic materials:

X-acto knife
Brushable paint, e.g. like Model Master Acrylic.
Wide, medium, and fine detail brush (I recommend golden talkon brushes you get at art stores for quite cheap) Like say, 1/4 inch wide brush, a smaller brush, and then a fine detail brush, maybe 1/0 or 5/0 brush for fine detail work. (The total of that shouldn't come out to more than 10 dollars at most.)
Liquid cement:(See tutorial here)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2clHW2UN0w

The idea is to weld it together with the solvent and then shave off the excess so you don't need to fill the seams.

Decal setting solution (a simple bottle of microsol will generally be adequate)

Tweezers.

A spray can of primer (it can be like krylon, probably).

If you're wanting to get fancy, a sprue cutter:

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416917&sr=8-1&keywords=sprue+cutter

Other tips:

Brushes that come in "starter packs" generally suck, as does the paint.



PS: Don't buy "packages" of tools offered by model retailers until you google the price of each component separately. Those tool packages are often made of cheap junk that are lumped together and then sold at a premium.

The bare minimum (assuming you don't have a good, SHARP pocketknife) is liquid cement, and then a starter kit that includes paint, and three paintbrushes (of the widths I mentioned), and wet and dry sandpaper from the hardware store (try for 800 grit or higher).

Oh. And patience. Lots of it.

Kanthal is typically used and will be your most commonly seen wire. I only know of Gplat as an alternative (I used it... not worth the price increase IMO) I get mine from Amazon, I originally started with 28 gauge, then a buddy let me borrow his 26 gauge, that was good too. I purchased some 24 gauge and it drains my batteries hard (which is why I want a dual box mod.)

Yes, a mod is the housing. Then you will need your atomizer and battery.

I started dripping with the IGO-w atty with the Smok Magneto Mod. Biggest problem I had with it is it was small and i had to drill the air holes. I still use the Magneto.

I would never suggest tank anything. I tried both the genuine and the clone russian 91% and it was a terrible experience.

So, for a beginner getting into dripping I would suggest these parts:

[Plum Veil Atomizer] (http://www.eciggity.com/plume-veil-clone-by-tobeco/) (Note! I have not bought anything from this site.)

ANY single battery 18650 mechanical mod. They all realistically do the same thing. RipTrippers.com does a lot of reviews, they should be able to point you in the right direction. I do however suggest one with a magnetic fire button instead of spring. (It will lower resistance and last longer because springs are weaker than magnets)

Atleast 2 [18650 Sony batteries] (http://www.myvaporstore.com/SONY_VTC5_18650_2600mAh_Battery_Flat_Top_30A_p/sny65026-f.htm)

Charger I chose the two battery one for money purposes but I suggest the 4 since it's only like $5 more and can charge a myriad of batteries

[These clamp things] (http://www.amazon.com/5-5-KELLY-Hemostat-FORCEPS-Straight/dp/B000QWK174/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1414788271&sr=8-6&keywords=medical+clamps) makes building much easier

I use these but a lot of people use nailclippers

[Wire] (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Kanthal-Resistance/dp/B00JVXVKB0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414788396&sr=8-2&keywords=28+gauge+kanthal+wire) either 28 or 26 gauge is what I would recommend.


Cotton Balls

[Ohm Tester] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBNCOMG/ref=s9_simh_gw_p328_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0J7AHRP45YSC4DHAS7DB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846)

Drill bits, allen keys or screwdriver to wrap coils around (i usually use Allen Keys)

Another Screwdriver for you builds

Tweezers are nice for accurate adjustments

Some people suggest a torch.... it's a waste of money for most builds. The main idea behind them is they are used to burn off any chemicals on the wire... but when you are done building you just fire it a few times before you put cotton in them and it does the same thing. Some builds need a more flexible wire... that is the only time you will need it.

Note: I 100% support the use of Clones, especially when you are starting out your vape life. They save so much money and do an adequate (if not better) job of most authentics.

Don't know if there is a good list, though a few things are mentioned at the bottom of the unofficial V2 BOM. but I'll do my best to say what I used for my V2:

Metric Hex screw drivers: I picked up bondhus 10686 for this build, and it served me well.

Ferrule crimper: Something similar to this ( Mine is actually This guy here., but I'm sure I didn't pay anywhere near that much)

wire stripper: something else I've had forever, but something along these lines

un-insulated terminal crimper: Engineer PA-09 served me very well

Insulated terminal crimper: something else I've had far too long to have the branding. Mine look a lot like these though.

And then it's down to really normal stuff, that you probably already have around: normal screw drivers (mostly phillips), precision screw drivers, scissors, box cutter.

You're bound to want a multimeter for something, at some point.

Oh. And I cut my plexiglas panels on the table saw, since I have one. That's certainly not necessary though. Lots of people doing just fine with scribe cutters like this

You'll notice I didn't include any drill bits or taps. Sorry, I went with the pre-cut, pre-tapped Misumi framing, so I didn't DO any cutting or tapping. I can tell you though, if you're tapping your own, all your taps will be for M5 x 0.8 threaded screws.

I own 3 of these. They are good robust basic multimeters. For learning this is plenty. The thermocouple function is one of those things that you didn't know you needed until you had it. As you progress you will probably find that you wish you had more multimeters before you wish you had better multimeters.

With the money you save, I highly recommend some test clips, some wire cutters / strippers, and perhaps some side cutters (links to the ones I recommend).

Since you’re asking about knives I definitely recommend just about any knife Spyderco makes and they really are the best at serrations.

BUT to cut through plastic straps, the best tool you can possibly have is this tool. It’s small and cheap and slips into just about any pocket. Also great for cutting and stripping wire. I frequently have to cut thru thick 24” zip ties and this really The best tool for the job.

Edit: trying to sort out the hyperlink

I purchased my screen from AAA Retro Gaming on eBay.

These kits and screens are all coming from the same place in China. One store won't have a magical better stock than another. The one linked above will come with the 40-pin Type B cable (if needed), along with a glass screen lens.

----------------------------------------

Not necessary, but it'll make your life easier ... a rotary tool.

I chose this one because of the bundled accessories and case, along with it's high rating. I've used one and couldn't tell the difference between this and a Dremel.

----------------------------------------

If you go the rotary tool route, get some eye protection. Bits may go flying directly into your face.

----------------------------------------

Can't forget the soldering iron.

I chose this configuration because it comes with stand, solder and other accessories for only $16.

----------------------------------------

Flush cutters will help you get to spots too tight for the rotary tool. This isn't necessary, but it's very useful when needed.

----------------------------------------

For various other mod bits, I've ordered from quite a few stores.

• Hand Held Legend - If you're in the US, these guys are my favorite. They'll get your package out within 24 hours.
  
  
• Retro Modding - They're based in Canada and shipments are ... a bit timely. Personally, it took 18 days for my package to arrive (to Chicago).
  
  
• eBay - Just make sure where the seller is from. (If the item is too cheap, it's coming over very slowly from China.)

>brushes

If you use GW brushes, get the Standard, Fine Detail, and Wash brushes. These give you a good starting point for most of the stuff you'll be doing. Otherwise you'll want to find similar brushes in other ranges (Windsor & Newton make good brushes). If you go with third-party brushes I think the sizes you'll want are 1, 0, & 3/0.

>mats,

You can get any sort of sewing mat, where it's basically just a piece of rubber you lay on the table. Joann's Fabrics or any sort of sewing store should have this. Here's one I found on Amazon.

>thinners

The paint you're working with is water based, so water will work as a thinner. If you decide to airbrush things that will change what you need but for now, build a wet palette.

>cutters

Try these

>etc

You'll need some glue at the very least. You might also want some helping hands to hold things while you paint them/glue them together.

>is there a site that tells you what colours you need to paint certain colour styles?

I'm not aware of any one site as a catch-all for painting any scheme, but googling things led me to this site that goes into detail about painting Space Wolves. You could also consider this video from Games Workshop where they go through the steps of painting the model.

As for the paints themselves, I'd recommend working with the Vallejo Game Color paint range. They come pre-thinned (extremely helpful for new painters) and convert to Games Workshop colors pretty easily.

Some more hobby stuff to help you get started:

Zenithal Priming

Airbrushing

Object Source Lighting

You can satisfy all your sticky tape and battery pad needs for life if you get a 5M roll of monkey grip tape, which is on sale atm over at banggood.

Considering how many chinese screws I've already stripped by applying what I feel is reasonable torque, I suggest you get some spare screws.

Most frequently you're going to use M3 screws, between sizes M3x5 and M3x16, so maybe get a couple of those. If you're planning to fly 3'' and smaller, the same margins apply for M2 screws. Throw in some M5 nyloc nuts to secure your props.

Don't overdo it on the soldering tools unless you can afford to spend a lot. The iron is less important than many on here might make you think, . As long as you know what you're doing and using the right tip for the task at hand, you'll be good with a cheap one. So I suggest you watch some videos on youtube and practice.

u/Errat1k already mentioned all the hex drivers you will need.

You'll want to have a pair of wire clippers like these and treat them well. Don't cut anything except wires and zip ties, you'll be good for a long time.

Heatshrink is your friend as well, get some.

Without tools, the best you can really do is look for oiliness on the pipe. When you find a joint that feels oily (look for dark colours on the pipe, usually covered in very fine dust. Once you rub the dusty area with your fingers you'll feel the oiliness), spray/pour a small amount of washing up liquid over it and look for bubbles. If there's any refrigerant left in the system, you'll usually see bubbles appear (or over a longer period, foam). Of course if the gas has all escaped already - and we're only talking a couple of hundred grams here - then you won't see any bubbles.

Most domestic gear has no access fitting at all so even locating the leak can be difficult if there's no visual indication. You need to get pressure in there so you can leak test - this means adding a bullet piercing valve (like this).

Then you need to put something in via your bullet piercing valve to raise the system pressure. It's best to use dry nitrogen to leak test to save wasting refrigerant, but since you most likely don't have that on hand you could buy yourself some refrigerant (most likely R134a) and pressurise with that. That's a big no-no here (both disposable cylinders and dumping gas to atmosphere by charging a system with a known leak) but I'm guessing your in the US, and those sorts of laws seem remarkably lax so go for gold. It's not like you'll be ruining MY ozone layer too, right? ;)

You also need to regulate the pressure going in to the system. This is where you need gauges. Connect the yellow line to your bottle, connect the blue line loosely to your bullet piercing valve, purge from cylinder to piercing valve by opening the cylinder tap + gauges tap, and releasing some pressure via the loose fitting, then tighten the fitting and close your gauges tap. Open the bullet piercing valve. Open the gauges tap slowly and give it ~50psi of system pressure.

Then you can go for gold with your soap, or you can lash out and grab yourself some "proper" leak detection fluid (like this), or better yet an electronic leak detector (like this one).

Once you've found your leak, you want to release your nitrogen (or reclaim your refrigerant using a reclaim plant and a spare cylinder), then repair it using an oxy/acetalyne set, or since it's only tiny pipework you can get away with a MAPP gas set.

If it's a copper->copper joint, you're laughing - polish the pipework up with emery cloth, heat the pipe until it's just this side of glowing red, and feed the joint with brown tip silver solder.

If it's a copper->steel joint, then it's a bit more of a pain. You need blue tip silver solder and flux. Clean your joint with the emery cloth, give it a nice coating of flux on every surface you need solder to stick to, then heat it up until it's a fair way short of glowing red. Feed the blue tip solder in and STOP. Unlike brown tip (15% silver) you can't just keep feeding blue tip (45% silver) as it ruins the weld.

Now, since you put on a bullet piercing valve and they leak like a sieve in the long term, we need to replace that with a schrader access valve. Since it's most likely going to be in a straight through piece of pipe, you can save time and grab yourself a pre made access valve in 1/4" pipe. Cut away the hole left by the bullet piercing valve, polish the copper and cut the pipework with a ~10mm gap using a tube cutter. Then slip your access fitting assembly in there, and follow the copper->copper joint procedure.

Of course, now that we've done all that you need to change the liquid line filter drier too. I'd recommend a 1/4" solder in core drier in place of the original copper spun drier because... well, copper spun driers are terrible. Follow the pipe cutting procedure from the piercing valve instructions and the soldering instructions from the copper->copper joint instructions and that's done too. Remember - always try and mount the drier so it's outlet is LOWER than its inlet. This turns the drier into a small liquid receiver and helps ensure a good liquid seal over the capillary tube. Speaking of capillary tubes, if it was inserted straight into the original copper spun drier CUT the capillary, don't try and unsweat it. The chances of blocking it up are about 82.5634% (approximately) when you unsweat capillarys. You're much better off chopping it with a set of capillary tube cutters and ensuring a good clean capillary. The ~30mm of wasted capillary will affect performance, but almost certainly not to any sort of measurable degree.

Then give the system a good evacuation using a vacuum pump and ensure it reaches a good vacuum (sub-500 micron) with a digital vacuum gauge.

Then using a set of electronic scales, charge your freshly evacuated system (remembering to purge!) to the charge recommended by the manufacturer.

Voila! You have just fixed your chest freezer.

..... Alternatively, pay someone to do it for you and/or recycle the components and buy yourself a new one.

I'll chime in... had my kit for about 2 weeks now and will share my experience:

Tools

If you don't have some of these, I HIGHLY recommend them.

• Flush Cutters. Fantastic for snipping and trimming zip ties, and great for cutting filament. They're inexpensive at less than $5. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
  
• Digital Calipers. You'll use these alot. Will come useful in the construction of the printer as well. Can find a decent pair for $10-$20. If you have a harbor freight nearby, they sell some decent ones that always have a coupon.
  
• Bondhus Ball Hex Screwdrivers. I don't know people do it, but using those L shaped hex drivers are annoying and uncomfortable. Don't cheap out on these. Bondhus makes some of the best hex drivers in the business and are fairly inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI/
  
• M3 Tap - I don't know how widespread it was, but a few people received frames where the holes were not tapped (or if they were, they were covered in powdercoat afterwards), and had screws snap inside of them. You don't want this to happen... happened to me and is a pain to fix. I didn't want to deal with customer support and wait for a new frame, so I tapped the holes myself. Even if you don't need the tap, it'll come useful for a lot of projects since a lot of stuff uses 3mm screws. https://www.amazon.com/Tonsiki-Adjustable-T-Handle-Reversible-Threading/dp/B01M4J4GWL/
  
• 3mm hardware kit - Again, you'll likely need some extra 3mm hardware if you plan on modifying the printer or adding on to it. https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-210pcs-Stainless-Socket-Assortment/dp/B014ONCP88/
  
  Assembly isn't too hard, and the directions are pretty good. My main complaint with the directions is that sometimes they don't explain what's important and not important all the time. I spent a lot of time building, taking apart, and rebuilding the base y-axis frame because I thought I did something wrong (it wobbled) to find out that you fix that wobble as one of the last steps.
  
  The 100mm distance that you're required to thread double nuts early in the assembly is absolutely critical by the end of the build for many different reasons. It would be nice if prusa included some kind of printed spacer to make that step foolproof.
  
  Again, assembly is straightforward. I took a span of 3 days to finish mine while dedicating a few hours each night to do it.
  
  Upgrades
  
  A couple of things can be improved on the printer. The printer isn't terribly noisy, but you can make it damn near silent with a few upgrades.
  
  
• The vibration dampers mentioned previously (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1707045) work damn well to eliminate a lot of sound. I've also seen people claim that putting the printer on a concrete paver block and then putting that block on rubber feet eliminates most of the sound as well. (http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/improvements-f14/best-usd7-buck-improvement-you-can-make-t3051.html)
  
  
• After the vibration dampers, the hotend fan becomes the loudest thing about the printer. I ended up buying a 40mm Noctua fan and printing an adapter (https://grabcad.com/library/mk2_40mm_fan_duct-1) to mate it to the extruder assembly. Now the only thing I hear is linear bearing noise. Wiring in the noctua fan isn't plug and play though. I cut off the stock fan and crimped some dupont connectors on the leads and connected the wires that way. Soldering works too.
  
  
• I don't care what you do, but find a new solution for a spool holder. The one prusa includes is terrible. Easiest solution is to print or use a pvc pipe to connect the two spool holder brackets. I went another route and printed a spool holder that used 608 skate bearings to make the spool holder buttery smooth. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1832235
  
  
• The method to mount the y-axis bearing is not great. Print these out (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1819779) and switch out the zip ties when you get a chance. No rush to do these... just something to do when you want to tinker. Look up the igus drylin bearings too... a lot swear by them.
  
  
• Also software. If you can swing the $150, I highly, highly, highly recommend simplify3d. Their slicing is second to none, and their support structures don't make a mess and require a ton of print cleanup.

The 3 things you need are:

• something to cut the pieces off the sprue -- an exacto knife will work, but flush cutters are easier to work with.
  
• an adhesive -- super glue works, but plastic cement is better.
  
• something to remove sprue nubs/mold lines from the plastic -- an exacto knife can work again here, but I prefer needle files. Much harder to make an error than when using a knife.
  
  That's pretty much it. If you want to dive in really deep I have a massive post that lists other tools and touches on a lot of customization that people have done. But none of that's mandatory, you can very easily forge ahead with just the 3 tools I linked above.

Hi, I actually had the exact same dilemma as you and about a month ago went for a 2.0 setup.

In the past I've tried a variety of computer speakers and nothing cut it. I never tried a soundbar, but I am super happy with my 2.0 setup.

So here is my $200 set up (big thanks to Zeos for helping me learn and pick out the parts):

$109 manufacturer refurbished Denon AVR 1513 receiver:

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html?_escaped_fragment_=specifications#!specifications

$80 Micca MB42x bookshelf speakers:

http://amzn.to/188rnsc

$9.43 Speaker wire:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YEA53M3RQ14Z&coliid=I31E8R7IOVMB4E

This is the wire stripper I bought but it is no longer available for prime so I would get a different one:

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-2078305-Vise-Grip-5-Inch-Stripper/dp/B000JNLUQ6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413512&sr=8-13&keywords=wire+stripper

Maybe get this one (but any will probably be fine):

http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-GS-40-Milwaukee-Clipper-Stripper/dp/B00004WLJX/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1396936022&sr=1-11&keywords=wire+stripper

Lastly, banana plugs for the wires. Optional, but nice to have ($10.96):

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-High-Quality-Copper-Speaker/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413889&sr=8-2&keywords=banana+plug

Total: ~ $250 with tax and shipping and whatnot.

One last piece of advice:

I originally tried the popular Lepai amp and hated it. I just couldn't get the volume I wanted from it.

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

• Hobby knife - something like an x-acto knife. This can double as your mold line scraper.
  
• Clippers - any brand will do, as long as it has a small point. You can find them on Amazon or at the hardware store, search for "flush cutters". I use this one
  
• Glue - Plastic for plastic models, super glue for metal/resin models. I like Testor's plastic glue (even Games Workshop's, but it's a tad expensive), and Gorilla Super Glue
  
• Primer - I like Rustoleum. Been using it for years without any problems. I use their Sandable Primer. But whatever you buy make sure it's just primer without anything else mixed into it.

First of all, thanks for sharing the video. I think metal casting is really interesting, and it's great to see how different people approach it.

> It's ok to be brutal.

Alright -

I really hate the music you used.

I'm also not a big fan of videos where that show the entire process at 10x playback (or whatever speed) - to me that indicates that you're showing too much. When I see videos like this, I click through around the timeline to find the interesting parts. Show the critical parts at regular speed and cut out the extra bits. Tell me (or show me) why something is a critical step.

Increase your lighting for better video. Do you have some work lights? Get two of them as close as possible to what you're working on at different angles and try filming like that (the closer you have a light source to a subject, the more even it appears. Far away lights appear as "points"). Set the white balance on your camera to account for the color temperature of the lights. Or if you have any kind of desk lamp, try pointing it at whatever you're filming. You'll have to experiment with what looks best with what you've got.

During the wax carving section, a huge portion of the frame felt wasted. You could have gotten much tighter on the actual carving, which would have drawn me in more than looking at a 90% static shot. Again, slowing down here and showing why you make certain carving decisions would have been more interesting. For instance, why did you carve out the middle then re-fill it? I had no idea what was going on there.

I felt bad for the clippers you used to get the wax out of the can. They look like flush cut electronics clippers, which usually say something like "For Copper Only". This indicates that using them on harder metal (like a can) will damage the cutting surface. But they're your tools.

From a PPE perspective, I would strongly consider wearing leather boots while pouring molten metal. But I can be clumsy at inopportune times and I like my toes.

It's this tooless wiring cap type of jack, like this: the third picture. I installed a couple of them just this last summer and now they don't seem to be available pretty much everywhere anymore. I found that they are easier to get loose connections on than punch-down patch panels, but I believe I came up with a best practice for them. I suggest you re-terminate to your standard TIA-EIA 568 A or B and use a needle-nose pliers to really get the conductors firmly into their grooves in the connector with a gentle pull. Then after turning the twist part of the wiring cap making sure it is fully turned and cannot turn any more use a flush cutter to trim the excess wire extruding past the edges flush so it's less likely to have connectivity issues from physical contact.

Table, chairs, box of pens, box of sharpies: ~$200 from staples, free delivery, your ass will thank you.
http://www.staples.com/Sudden-Solutions-6-Standard-Grade-Resin-Folding-Banquet-Table/product_749944
http://www.staples.com/Staples-Steel-Folding-Chair-Black-with-Luxura-Seat-4-Pack/product_886001

Amazon:

• An Amazon prime account on works dime. It will save them more than $80 in shipping costs. Or see if you can expense your personal one, because why not?
  
• Locking retractable razor blade, 100 pack of blades, pointy tipped. Throw the blades away the second they feel like they aren't a hot knife through butter. It's pennies per blade.
  
• P-Touch Label maker w/ AC adapter. Lots of labels. Don't cheap out, get the bigger one. No excuses not to label everything this way. (~$150-200. Buy batteries in bulk too, regular energizer/duracell, not the cheap ones not the expensive ones.)
  
• A good driver, hex shank, 6" or 12" extension, a fistful of not-the-cheapest philips bits. Spare battery, and whatever you need to charge them. ~$150-200 (Remember your DC might be 208v power, and US chargers are 110v only.)
  
• Laptop charger to leave in the datacenter. If you have multiple types of laptops, then buy one charger for each one. $79
  
• These shelves to put all of the above mentioned junk in, I own like 6 of them: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O4A42K/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• 1000 pack of zip ties, single size, and a huge multipack of the other sizes.
  
• Micro cut sheer flush cutters. A billion of them. http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1374340061&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=flush+cutter
  
• Amazon basics apple dock + lightning cables.
  
  A fist-full of the cheap $1 philips and flathead screw drivers from home depot.
  
  Monoprice: Pigtail adapters for your PDU's to go from c14 to 5-15R. Almost every electronic device these days is universal power (90-240v, 50/60hz.) The notable exception is your driver charger. Never order fewer than 5 of anything. 10 for ethernet cables. On that note, order 2x 50' ethernet cables, and 10 of every other length and color you might need. Some long micro usb cables for phone charging. $100 extremely well spent.
  
  http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022804&p_id=1302&seq=1&format=2
  
  Pole-style crash cart. Your own crash cart is worth its weight in gold, and one you can't leave shit on is worth another weight in gold because it cannot get messy and junked up. $350? I forget.
  
  All in all $1500 worth of stuff you will see once a year at best. However your on-site techs will never spend much if any time rooting around for tools. Do not travel with this stuff, buy one kit per colo site.
  
  Also never let anyone tell you square-holed racks are bad. Order 1000 extra fasteners and nuts. This is on top of whatever you need to mount the stuff you know about. Only ever order one type. Throw away any fastener kits which come with your equipment because they might be slightly different. Remember 1000 fasteners is only 125 rack units assuming top, bottom, front, back, left, right. It's fewer still if you put in the center locking one. Have them toss in a cage nut tool, or learn to use a small flathead. Blood for the datacenter gods. Eventually you get extremely good at them and will stop cutting yourself.
  
  Now off the reservation: Wifi router (buffalo) $80 prime, network printer (Brother, use the wired connection) $125 prime, ream of paper ($10, prime or staples).
  

The cobras are amazing. The smooth jaw pliers are some of the best tools I've ever used. The small ones are really flipping handy.

Knipex Tools 86 03 125 5-Inch Mini Pliers Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8N282O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PA.FybHEQFVV3

The cobra 125mm small ones are killer too.

Also the little bolt cutters are amazing and have a great puller on them too.

Knipex 7101200 8-Inch Lever Action Mini-Bolt Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SOSC4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0B.Fyb2HKFKMJ

It's all expensive and I have a lot of their stuff. I'm happy every time I pull one of them out of my bag. Highly recommended

Flush Cut Wire Cutters

Miniture Multi-drive Set

Battery Cases Never transport cells naked, especially near change/keys.

Also, I would highly suggest getting 9 batteries, I keep one set on the charger, one in the mod and one in the cases fully charged as a backup. I picked up those cases, specifically sol I could color code my battery sets, helps keep them together.

If you don't want to mess with building your own coils, I've recently started using these pre-built coils and I absolutely love em. I'd built a few claptons on my own, but frankly it was a lot more time than I wanted to mess with sometimes. They are pretty decent quality, they are all machine built so they are perfectly uniform and they make a quick coil change reletively painless.

Like in this photo, but replace the right hand with vice grips.

Note, I find it a lot easier to come from under the rim, with the vice grips between the spokes instead of from the top like in the photo

The DOG3 doesn't come with any coils, as far as I can remember. It does come with extra screws/o-rings.

If you're planning on building your own coils, I highly suggest looking up some videos on youtube. I learned from watching Grimm Green's videos about 3-4 years ago on how to do dual coils and have been happy with them to this day. It's nothing fancy but it gets the job done.

You can get your supplies at https://www.lightningvapes.com/

Don't buy spools of wire that's more than 10 dollars anywhere else... You're getting ripped off.

I would recommend you try using 316l stainless steel wire. Especially since you're thinking of getting an rx200, which is a temp control mod. Stainless steel can do temp control (tc) or wattage mode so you can play with those two modes and see what you like. I started with wattage mode since tc wasn't around yet but have since been doing tc and haven't looked back.

Also, go to this site http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp

It's a calculator to see how many loops you'll want in a coil to get your desired level.

You got the wire and the calculator, now you'll need some wicking material. I personally use japanese cotton. I use https://www.amazon.com/ORGANIC-Cotton-Makeup-Puff-Medium/dp/B000TCD51A/ref=sr_1_8_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1484118018&sr=8-8&keywords=japanese+cotton

This one pack will last you for more than a year once you get a hang of things. Don't get ripped off and buy them in smaller packs. I've seen b&m stores selling repackaged cotton for 2-5 dollars.

You might need a wire cutter if you don't already have one handy. I've been using this for 3 years now and it still works like new. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484118170&sr=8-3&keywords=wire%2Bcutter&th=1

You can also search for mini screw driver sets to wrap your wire around to make your coils. I bought mine at walmart for 5 dollars.

You'll also need tweezers. I've been using ceramic tweezers from lightening vapes, which I linked above. Aside from that, you should be ready to rock. Oh, and get an ohm reader. That might come in handy to check your work.

If you have any other questions, just PM me. I know how scary it is to play with wires/electricity and crap if you're not comfortable with them.

You cut the wire to length yourself. I change my setup a lot so I've used up over 100ft of wire, but 50ft might last you forever if you never move anything.

Amazon or Monoprice is my goto for cheap wire. You'll want a wire stripper as well.

Here's a great graphic I cooked up in MS Paint to go along with the steps below.

• 1. Cut length of wire from amp to speaker. Cut a bit longer than you need, you can always shorten it.
     
• 2. Pry apart the two individual wires on both ends, 1 - 2 inches should be fine.
     
• 3. Strip a bit off the ends to expose the bare copper wire
     
• 4. Insert positive wire into positive terminal of speaker and amp, and same with the ground or negative wire.
     
• 5. Repeat with other speaker.
     
     Not all wires are marked black / red, but they'll all have some way to identify the difference. Just double check you aren't wiring stuff backwards. I also separated the two wires in the 4th step to make it more clear, don't do that IRL.

Yeah and that's a good price Amazon has them for 50. Curiously the nicer pair with a better handle is only 41 on Amazon

KNIPEX Tools 71 12 200, Comfort Grip High Leverage Cobolt Cutters with Opening Lock and Spring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EXO81K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pZS8AbERVMKH4

Sorry for the late reply. First of all, take all of this with a grain of salt. This is my first build, so I am by no means an expert. You should definitely look in to all this on your own rather than blindly trust my purchases.
Here are the tools I got in my Amazon order:

• Wire Stripper
  
• No Clean Flux Paste
  
• XT60 Connectors
  
• 60/40 Rosin Core Solder
  
• Loctite Threadlocker 242 (blue)
  
• Weller 40 Watt soldering station
  
• Solder tip cleaner
  
• Helping hand with LED
  
• Bullet connectors
  
• Liquid electrical tape
  
• Heatshrink variety pack
  
• Chisel tip for soldering iron
  
• Servo cables
  
• 12/14/16 AWG silicone wire
  
• Zip ties
  
  I hope this helps.
  
  

I've spent a lot of time reading up on these this past week and from what I understand it will cut through heavier foam rather easily (as long as you have enough power and your nichrome wire isn't too weak), although the project will require $50-70 in parts and you'll have to wire your own power supply (premade power supplies like model train transformers tend to be unreliable and too weak to power hot wire cutters).

But if neither of those are a problem, it seems like a great solution.
Or you could buy a hot wire cutter already made for $30

Best of luck!

1- a pair of nippers! http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175-Maxi-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBU0YC/ref=pd_sim_328_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31worx20hHL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1NM0NMHRY8GXVMGXPBJH You can get a good pair for 15 bucks off amazon, but chances are you might have some around the house from a tool kit, I actually use some old bigger ones, and they work just fine. Here they are: http://puu.sh/oYkry/e4484c7ddc.jpg This is to get the parts off the runners (the frames the parts go on) you CAN use a knife but you may damage the part.

2. Something to get the nubs off, either a hobby knife (you can find some for 5 bucks) or some very light grade sanding paper (but your fingernails can suffice for some)

That's it. That's all you really need to put one together, honestly. Remember to take ur time and look at the instructions carefully, the 1/100 IBO kits are great from what i hear and you got one of the coolest ones. :D IF you want to add further detail to the thing, you can look up panel lining, but i dont think it's necessary for the 1/100 IBO kits.

How do you think this set compares to the Tamiya one?

I noticed in the pics of that set that it included a Xuron cutter. Would I get a better cutter with this particular Xuron cutter than the generic one included in the set?

I also have this for a pen knife and this for a file set picked out so I would have 3 main tools (cutter, pen knife, and a file set) for $22.14 total all with 2-day Prime shipping available (so I won't have to stare at an unopened box of Freedom 2.0 for a month waiting for deliveries from Japan).

Would I be missing something crucial if I went with just 3 individual tools above and are there better options for the money (that I won't have to wait a month for)? Any input on all this would be greatly appreciated.

oh nice yea those definitely look handy for getting clean precise cuts.
It would be a good investment if I find myself really liking to build boards. Would something like https://www.amazon.com/Woodland-Scenics-Wire-Foam-Cutter/dp/B0006KSMEU do the trick?

I am mostly recommending tools rather than consumables (like a truck load of filaments :P)

A digital caliper, use it every single day, must have. A $20 Chinese made should be more than sufficient for the tolerance we are printing at.

A pair of good quality side cutter. Prusa printers don’t come with them.
Hakko Micro Cutter

A Noga deburring tool. Very useful for finishing a print and trim sharp edges (brims for example). Cuts plastic like butter.
Noga Deburring Tool

A set of taps. Can’t get very strong thread in plastic, but often good enough. I would prefer a metric set.

A vise. Depends on how much space you have. I use a drill press vise and I find it ok so far.

Ceramic tweezers and wire cutters, I like these and these kind I got a three pack of different kinds but it's no longer available. For cotton this will last forever. if you don't already have screwdrivers and/or bits to wrap your coils something like this works great. For roundwire something like this will last till the end of time.

+1 for at least getting a good 2.5 mm ball hex. I love Wiha tools, but for my ball hexes, I went a slightly cheaper and got Wera. Completely happy with those too.

+1 for flush cutters. I have many pairs of the Hakko CHP-170 Micro Cutters. They come in really handy on prints as well. They are under $5ea from Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076M3ZHBV/

I put my MK3 on to a thick cutting mat to aid it moving it around the table when working on it.

These don't last long, but they're a good place to start:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076M3ZHBV/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=4518303533042278392&pd_rd_wg=6aIN8&pf_rd_r=5HF6WFQ78NM75PB5NGE8&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00FZPDG1K&pd_rd_w=S2YPv&pf_rd_i=plastic+nipper&pd_rd_r=ace6db1f-dd46-4fe9-bfdd-436df803a228&ie=UTF8&qid=1527225937&sr=1

These are a bit more expensive, have some good reviews, and is avalible with prime shipping:

https://www.amazon.com/TDOK-TD-170-Cutter-Internal-Cutting/dp/B06WP9NX98/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1527226020&sr=8-22&keywords=plastic+nipper

They're not made for plastics, but they should give good results.

my couple of cents:

LEGIBLY LABEL EVERY PULL (on both ends)

Now for the less important tips:
>power tools are great until the cord doesn't reach or the battery needs a recharge; invest in handtools first
>Since you're starting a new install in non-resi location: terminate using T-568B, unless other equipment is already using 568A
>Use a patch panel that takes keystone connectors
>home run everything back to a telecom rack that can be locked
>Observe bend radii and conduit/opening fill limits to avoid damage to the cable during the pull
>If installing on the shop floor/area: protect the cable pulls with conduit (sch 80 PVC or EMT, IMC or RMC if code calls for it) until the pull is at least 8ft off the floor
>use bushings and other fittings to prevent cable from chafing/rubbing on sharp/rough edges of conduit (if used)
>Pull 2 runs when you think you need 1 and pull 3 when you think you need 2
>Pull cat 6 instead of cat 5e if possible (the cost difference is minimal in most situations)
>Don't waste time/energy/hassle trying to make your own patch cables to "save money" (only crimp RJ45s to learn how, if you have to make the termination fit in a confined space, or to execute a repair)
>leave as much of the native twist undisturbed as practical during termination
>depending on zoning and other factors (how the building is built) you may need to use cable with certain ratings (CMX/CMR/CMP)
>1000ft of cable goes quickly in a commercial shop
>if you have HazLoc/ATEX rated equipment or spaces in the shop, have a licensed company do this; there are a lot of special requirements that need to be followed or your shop could be a future post on /r/catastrophicfailure
>assume each desk/workstation needs at least 2 drops; one for data and one for VoIP/POTS
>using wi-fi (without a backup or alterante means) on for business-critical applications gets costly quickly. Example: in place I worked, the cost of 1 hour downtime in the shipping department was the same as having 2 guys wire the whole warehouse and shipping area with cat 6 (labor, materials, and scissor lift rental).
>fire caulk and fire rated foam are handy
>you may need to pack cable pass throughs with steel or copper wool to prevent rodents from having a highway through the whole shop
>put drops in to support all major machinery work cells (they may not be internet connected today, but give that ~24 months)
>the following tools are super handy for this type of work:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XEUPMQ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076M3ZHBV
https://www.amazon.com/Jonard-ES-1964-Carbon-Electrician-Scissor/dp/B0069629IK (or similar)

For those who are looking: It's also pink, though the blue foam tends to be thicker. It's insulation foam, so you'll find it in that aisle.

Edit: looks like this or this. The links are for 2" thick, but you can get thinner if you'd like (I prefer 1" thick because I can always double up).

Edit 2: The insulation is polystyrene but it's not made up of small beads like polystyrene packaging. That being said, it does sort of have a "grain" to it, so you'll notice cutting it one way had more resistance than the opposite way. I suggest getting a foam cutter like this. You won't be able to do large pieces (which you can cut our with a utility knife) but it makes it easy to create the chips you see in the original post.

Winds at Burning Man can exceed 60mph and will pick up anything that isn't secured properly. At BM everyone uses 2-3 foot rebar to secure their tents from blowing away in the strong winds (or the new hotness, 18" lag bolts).

Sounds like the organizers think the winds at the location are strong enough to warrant using rebar.

If you've never used rebar before, you need a small sledgehammer to drive them into the ground, vice grips to pull them out, tennis balls to cap the ends to people don't slash their legs open when stumbling over them in the night. Also if you get rebar with a loop at the end or J hook rebar they are much easier to pull out since you can use another piece of rebar as leverage when pulling it out.

Also, do buy a tool like this as well. It's a lifesaver, and you'll love it for zip ties.

I couldn't do the subtanks simple because I'm clumsy and drop everything. I want one but I'm worried I'll break it immediatly. I started making coils with the help of a friend's husband because mine were not putting out enough heat. I've only changed coils once in the last month, but I regularly Rewick. I hate tasting an old flavor in my mod.

It is kind of a hobby but don't let these guys here with their crazy coils scare you. I do very simple parallel single coil(which is just two wires wrapped together in paralell) at like .2 Ohms and it hits great. I'm sure there are even better but to be honest sometimes these parallels hit hard for me.

I'd Recommend a Mech Unless you have a low Ohm regulated mod

If you get a Mech:

• To start I'd get an Efest Purple 35A battery or two.
  
• A Charger There is an I4 and D4 for those who need more batteries I only go through 1 a day.
  
  Coil Supplies:
  
  
• Some 26 or 28 gauge kanthal.
  
• Organic Cotton
  
• Pliers & Cutters
  
  
• An Ohm Meter To test the coils
  
  
• You can wrap around drill bits or a Jig tool
  
  
• Cermaic tweezers to compress your coils
  
  
• Vaper's toolbox App to check the Amps being pulled. Generally your find above .2 with a 35A (Amp limit) battery. The Powertool is most important. You enter 4.2 which is max Battery voltage and the resistance and it tells you how many amps it pulls out. You do not want to ever exceed your battery capacity.
  
  

I'd do a different spool setup. I use the TUSH The only needed hardware for that one is 4 skate bearings. If you need bearings I'll send you 4 for $5 or 8 for $6. Shipping included to US.

The other tools I recommend:

• Calipers - There are many in this price range. These work fine.
  
• Flush cutters - These are quality and what I use.
  
• Screw Kit - Not sure what you intend to print but a kit like this has you ready for a variety of projects.
  
• Orange PLA - Damn close to the Prusa ABS color.
  
• Flex Scraper - I use a wide flexible one because it helps avoid gouging the bed.
  
• Precision Pliers - I use a pair like this with the long skinny reach.

Just use something like this it should be fine - https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ

For me the benefit of better plant health with more ventilation is cheap compared to the price of a pot :)

oh! Ok, so we bought copper tubing that you can purchase in the plumbing section of Home Depot, we also got the copper elbows and tri...bows... to fit, and if you choose to make this, buy a pipe cutter. It was pretty simple! Then we bought a large .5" sheet of plywood, I think it was 6'x4', birch maybe? It was pretty cheap. Then we used a circular saw to cut out the middle, and tied it to the copper with the twine. the copper is fairly thin, so we used a plumbing glue to keep the pieces together and stable. I had the "king and queen" made from Etsy.

Please don't feel intimidated. I'm getting into gunpla again after like 10 years myself. The only intimidating thing is getting the equipment needed and knowing some tips on how not to screw some little things up. I personally use these clippers and I also use an xacto hobby knife with #17 blades. Just go slow and cut the pieces from the mold with the clippers leaving some leftover plastic that you can take off with the hobby knife. All those kits you mentioned sound good in terms of starting out. Any newer HG kit for that matter is probably a good start. You might want to look into getting some ultra fine tipped Gundam Markers for panel lining too. Have fun!

For my (future) sub ohm mech modders out there. Here is a quality setup that will allow you to rebuild to your heart's delight. I recommend a minimum of 4 batteries.

• 1x Emit Vapor Shotgun - http://www.vapercompany.com/Emit-Vapor-Shotgun-p/b10evs.htm
  
  
• 1x Trident V2 Atomizer (adjustible air flow and slotted posts are great.) - http://www.shopmvg.com/products/trident-v2
  
  
• 1x 100ft roll of 28awg Kanthal A1 wire - http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Wire-28-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/
  
  
• 1x Wire Cutting tool - http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Maximum-Cutting-Capacity/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
  
  
• 1x Ohm Meter - http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html
  
  
• 1x Cotton Roll (to use as wicks) - http://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Roll-Sterile-12-1-56/dp/B0008F6HOU/
  
  
• ?x Vape Juice (pick as many as you like) - http://www.vaportrailsnw.com/
  
  
• 4x 18650 batteries. Currently Sony VTC4 batteries are the best on the market. - http://www.amazon.com/Sony-US18650VTC4-2100mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00J470LTA/
  
  
• 1x Efest LUC Charger (easy to use and LCD display helps) - http://www.amazon.com/Efest-Charger-Digital-Battery-Readout/dp/B00GK7JMJ2/
  
  optional
  
  
• Small Carrying Case - http://illuminationsupply.com/battery-carriers-c-48_49/ecig-mod-zippered-carry-case-p-963.html#.U06cnPldX8A
  
  
• Large Carrying Case - http://www.amazon.com/16-Bottle-Essential-Presentation-Portfolio-5-15ml/dp/B0007SMXRI/

For cutting I use flush cutters, something like this.

I've found split ring pliers to be really useful for digging in there to get things really tight at the end. (I originally got them for actually attaching split rings (aka keyrings) and I actually really like these for making keyrings and attaching charms and such

I'm not sure how to help with the knots coming undone. Are you finishing the ends before you start? Your description of the problem there is a little unclear as I'm not sure if you're talking about the cord fraying (in which case always start with nice clean-melted ends), or if the knot itself is coming untied (a more technical issue that could just need adjustments to the way you hold it and how much initial tightening needs done).

The side cutters are cheap ones from amazon

Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P4PzDbEY3W097

The two black tweezers, square file and sanding sponge came in a crappy tool set I found on amazon.

Something like this set: Keadic 43Pcs Gundam Modeler Basic Tools Craft Set for Professional Model Assemble Building (Kit 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NMH65RV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i8PzDbJNHPJ2M

None of the tools are great but they will do until I can afford better stuff. There’s a lot of stuff you will want if you are going to paint your models and most of it is cheap but adds up. Thiners, primers, paints, brushes, clear coats etc.

This is my station now
https://i.imgur.com/5HPJfTq.jpg

I'm a bit late to the party, but I'm definitely going to second the recommendation for the Knipex Bolt-Cutter (amazon.com link).

I've done a lot of work with 18SWG SS (around 20,000 rings) and they've been fantastic.

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

• DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)
  
  
• clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp
  
  
• variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one
  
  
• 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind
  
  
• desolder braid
  
  
• rosin flux
  
  
• contact cleaner
  
  
• (de-oxit d-5)[http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S6-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/]
  
  
• flush cutters
  
  
• solder sucker
  
  
• shrink tube of various diameters
  
  
• 92%+ isopropyl alcohol
  
  
• windex
  
  
• q-tips
  
  
• paper towels
  
  
• needle nose pliers
  
  
• nice set of phillips head screwdrivers
  
  
• standard screwdriver
  
  
• miner's headlamp
  
  
• digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly
  
  
• printer for printing service manuals
  
  
• heat gunor hair dryer
  
  
• canned air
  
  
  EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.
  
  All I can think of right now.

• Dremel 3000 (minimum) and metal cutting blades. Doesn't matter if you aren't cutting metal, they cut through plastic like butter. Why 3000? As much as the 200 is good for beginners, the 3000 is MUCH better with variable speed control.
  
  
• Different sized screwdrivers. Not all screw ports are made the same.
  
  
• For electronic mods- a soldering iron. Get yourself a Weller 25w one and a bunch of MT10 chisel tips to go with it.
  
  
• Plastic Snipper thingies These may be a tad expensive, but mine last about a year each.
  
  
• Disposable gloves (I like nitrile). I HATE having epoxy putty and epoxy on my hands. Disposable gloves are great for painting, epoxying, and everything else that gets your hands all dirtied up.
  
  
  
  If I think of any others, I'll add them, but that's a good start from me.

Right before I graduated from college I was getting into soldering and decided once I got my diplomas I would treat myself to some nice HAKKO equipment using the 30% discount while I was still considered a student. The stuff below is what I purchased. Note that the 30% discount is only applied to the soldering station nothing else. Anyway, if you can splurge, I highly recommend the FX-951-66. It is truly fucking AWESOME. If you are on a tight budget and not sure if soldering as a hobby will stick, get the cheapest HAKKO they sell and it will still be a good unit. I am a huge fan of hakko so clearly I am biased but they are a well-known reputable brand

Hakko Soldering Station, FX-951-66

Hakko T15-JS02 Conical Bent Tip R0.2 / 30deg x 1.6 x 7.9mm for FX-951

Hakko CHP 3-SA Stainless Steel Non-Magnetic Precision Tweezers with Very Fine Point Tips for Microelectronics Applications, 4-3/4" Length

Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter, 1.5mm Stand-off, Flush Cut, 2.5mm Hardened Carbon Steel Construction, 21-Degree Angled Jaw, 8mm Jaw Length, 16 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity

I'll just give you a list of the items I've been using (and like):

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18-D08-D12-D24-D32/dp/B00C1N30DI Hakko FX-888D. The extra tips may be unnecessary, I only ever use the one chisel tip

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJPO Leaded solder

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPGFT8 Brushes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K Side cutters

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2 Flux

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2 Solder Wick

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HT2QW KimWipes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B5JT8C Isopropyl Alcohol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CU56KM Acetone spray (use carefully/sparingly)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G5T9M0 Jewelers loupe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019SLLOMY Tweezers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8Z4RPG Hot air station (works well despite Chinesium)

Also, I noticed in Dave's videos he rarely adds flux, just the flux that's built into the multicore solder. I don't know if I'm alone on this one but with flux I always felt the bigger the glob the better the job. Just have to clean it afterwards with the solvent, tissues & brushes.

Edit: Okay that's a much bigger list than I thought, this stuff can get expensive!

Like any hobby the initial cost to start will always be high. You may be tempted to buy cheaper tools but whats the point if you plan on building Gunpla for a while and will end up replacing them. If you only want to build 1-2 kits then you can get away with 2 dollar clippers and a box cutter but it won't give you good results.

Despite the cost these are still the tools I recommend that EVERY Gunpla owner who doesn't plan on painting their kits purchase

A) Tamiya 74035 Sharp pointed side cutters, worth every penny

B) Xuron 410 Side Cutters, very durable at an affordable cost

C) X-Acto X3000, Comfort rubber grip, comes with 2 blades

D) 3 Fine tipped Gundam Markers, Black, Grey and Brown

E) Krylon Acrylic Flat Coat, large can for only $5-6


And that's it.

1. Use the Xuron side cutters to cut the part off the runner. Cut on the fat part (the runner) not the thin part next to the part (the gate). This will decrease the stress on the plastic and will maintain the sharp blade on your more expensive Tamiya side cutters.
   
   2)Use the Tamiya cutters to cut the remaining nub, with practice you can get it practically flush to the part.
   
   
   3)Clean up the nub with a hobby knife. You don't need sandpaper or a file if you did the steps above correctly and the flat coat will mask any scratches.
   
   4)Use the Gundam markers for lining
   
   
2. Apply your sticker (peel one of the corners and then "scoop" and apply it using the hobby knife, no tweezer needed).
   
   6)Finally finish with a top coat
   
   Total cost with amazon prime is $65. Yes the Initial cost is high but the tools above will last you for 20+ kits (you will need to buy more blades and flat coat). If you really can't afford that you can save up for the Tamiya sharp pointed side cutters and use the Xurons in the mean time (you will have more work to do).
   
   So $38-65 initial investment to me is really not that expensive
   

I think you did well for your first time. If you want pointers keep reading, feel free to ignore since you did good enough and it works.

For clipping the leads I'd try to clip them as short as you can (and clip after soldering, if that's not what you did). These make it easy to do.good trimming:
CHP-170 Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dARRAb32DKHCP

For the solder joints, you don't need to use so much. Also a lot of them are dull instead of shiny which sometimes means the joint wasn't solid or wasn't hot enough. What temperature are you setting your iron to and what kind of solder are you using?

About the difficulty snapping in the switches, with a keyboard this small you can snap all the switches in first without using the pcb, just by holding the edges of the plate, and as long as the switch pins are straight, you can drop the plate + switches on after, that's what I did.

If other switches were popping out, they probably weren't fully snapped in. Do these switches have the big.SMD LED cutout? Mine did, and so that part of the LED housing will sometimes flex and not really snap all the way in, partly because this plate is a little on the thick side. You can snap them most of the way in, then go back with a small screwdriver and push from inside the LED cutout to force the teeth to grab the lower edge of the plate. Once the switches are fully snapped in they will not come out just from the force of snapping other switches in, if they were doing that then I'd almost guarantee that one side wasn't fully snapped in on the switches. I wouldn't worry about it now though, the switches are soldered in and that should hold them in place anyway.

Overall great job for your first soldering build!

IMO best way to depin, use http://amzn.com/B000IBOOWQ

Can do rx in like 20 seconds and looks just about as good.

Yeah, I do have one quick question. I see 9u, 6u, and maybe even a couple others. What does this mean and how can I make sure I'm getting the right sizes so everything fits? At first I thought these were model numbers. That Tripp Lite model is one I had found on Amazon with casual searching.

Okay, 2 questions. I looked up datashark cable stripper on amazon and see several different results. Is it this one?

Hah.. 3 questions. What do you mean by "provide it with an earth ground"? How do I do that?

These are the things I bought. You could get by without some of the wire cutting tools. The crimper is kinda necessary, and I'd definitely buy the molex hand tool for pushing the wire into the SATA connector. Much easier than using a screwdriver.

16 AWG Guage Wire

Wire Stripper (you can get by without this)

Flush Cutter (probably not necessary but nice to have)

Crimping Tool

SATA Power Connector

SATA Passthrough Cap

SATA Terminal/End-of-Line Cap

Molex Hand Tool <-- buy the real thing, mimics on Amazon aren't as good

ATX Header Pins (these are 18 AWG which are a little small for 16 AWG gauge wire)

ATX Header Housing

I use these wire cutters, these pliers, and this roll-up pouch from Amazon, and I picked up a couple of pair of hemostats for a couple of bucks at a gun show, some dental picks from Harbor Freight, and some Ceramic tipped tweezers from fasttech. That's about all the tools I carry. The pliers are a little on the overkill side, but they work great for grabbing onto thin gauge wire for twisting.

TL;DR - I'd stay away from pre-packaged kits. They are convenient, but chances are the quality of all of the tools included may not be equal. But, if you don't want the hassle of shopping around and personally selecting each tool, just throw some money at a kit, and you'll be ready to build in one stop.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B076M3ZHBV

I hope these save you a ton of time in the future.


They don't leave any nub at all when you clip off a ziptie. You could run the nub over the back of your hand, and you can't even feel it.

You're really going to want rotary tool like a dremel. Power drills don't spin fast enough to make good use of the bits.

You can also use a pair of flush cutters to snip those off. You specifically want flush cutters, may be labled as flush side cutters, and not regular side cutters. They cut lower than the regular ones and fit into the space better.

The tool should be available at any craft store for <$15. Do not cut axles with the flush cutters as the metal is much harder than the base metal an can damage the tool.

The metal on the base is rather soft so these work fairly well. It take some finese to do it with out having to clean anything up though.

You will need "side cutters".

Lots of us would recommend:

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381645308&sr=8-1&keywords=xuron+side+cutters

or

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381645308&sr=8-2&keywords=xuron+side+cutters

To start off with. Then you can upgrade, if you want to, to heavy duty cutters later on.

To the right on the subreddit, check the useful links for... useful links!

Ohm reader:
http://www.eciggity.com/eleaf-digital-ohmmeter-voltmeter/

Ceramic tweezer: it makes getting hotspot easier with a torch
http://101vape.com/accessories-/415-ceramic-tip-tweezers.html

Cotton pads: Pricy up front but I love it and KGD is nowhere to be found
http://www.amazon.com/Shiseido-0446125933235-Facial-Cotton/dp/B00020E1P8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413476869&sr=8-1&keywords=shiseido+cotton

Wire cutter: I prefer this over using nail clippers
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Maximum-Cutting-Capacity/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413476778&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+cutter

24/26/28 Guage A1 Kenthal: This should last you for a while
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Kanthal-Resistance/dp/B00JTGYS40/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413476842&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

They sell in packs with multiples of 4, but for the price, you might as well just buy enough for a few cases at once.

I use pliers to install them (make sure you install them on the correct side) for pulling the fan-end through the fan. One thing that helps a lot is using something like a wire cutter, or maybe nail clippers, to snip a bit of material off of that end. The case-side always just pops right into place no problem. I only ever have issues with the fan-side.

The ones I linked have a slightly different design than the rivets I own, so you may not need to remove material.

I know you're probably do e with the build but for future reference, I only use a pipe cutter to cut the PETG (won't work with acrylic) because it gives you a super clean outer cut and I use the drill bit to clean up the inside.

A lot of people love those auto tensioner/Clippers, but I've found that if you don't have them set perfectly on the the it will still leave more of a tail than if you just use these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GTMZHG?pc_redir=1396457586&robot_redir=1

Don't buy that toolset, its very... I'd say low quality but its between low quality and medium quality.

Buy this instead.

• Clippers.
  
• x-acto knife
  
  You will be much better off. They are good tools and will last you ages. Also the blades for the knife should be replaced after one or two builds. But they are cheap and high quality. BE CAREFUL many, many cuts.... Also, You might want to start with a High Grade kit. You will learn a lot after building two or three of them.
  
  

Yeah, some things just aren't worth it haha

​

I would highly recommend these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K

​

If you cut anything really strong or oddly shaped you can dull them pretty easily, but otherwise they cut really clean and easily and they're super sharp. I have pick up a bunch of these, mine are almost too dull to use now :(

I highly recommend you take it to another store and ask them if they can build your first coils for you. Most places will do it for you for free if you buy a small container of ejuice from them. Ask if you can watch them build it, and ask questions about what type of wire, wick, diameter of the coil, etc. I've found that every good store is glad to help train new users and won't make you feel bad about starting in the hobby. Get used to how their coil acts, performs, etc. Some of my local places have 'build and brunch' days, where they invite lots of people to come in and get help, learn about stuff, share tips, etc.

You're also going to want a few spare batteries (so one can charge while you're using the other), a battery charger, wick, wire, and an ohm meter.

You can compare prices on Amazon to make sure you're not paying 2x retail.

Cheap ohm meter: http://amzn.com/B00KI0BMMC
I'm sure you can get better ones, but I have this. It matches the readings on my evic, so I'm reasonably sure it's accurate.

Wire cutters: http://amzn.com/B00FZPDG1K

Kanthal wire:

24g http://amzn.com/B00H8DQ01U

26g http://amzn.com/B00JTGYS40

28g http://amzn.com/B00FBSVQX6

Never hook up new coils to your battery without doing a resistance check first. Results can be very very bad.

For wire strippers: I recommend these

Klein Tools 11057 Wire Stripper and Cutter for 20-30 AWG Solid Wire and 22-32 AWG Stranded Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XEUPMQ/

They have a 10-18 gauge version and a 20-30 gauge version.

The "autostrippers" work less well for fine gauge wire. They also aren't as precise.

The Klein ones are well made. I'm sure there is an off brand version that is identical and cheaper. There are a lot of cheap quality ones out there though.

Armorer's wrench

Bench vise

Vice block

Torque Wrench

Vise grip and electrical tape for the bolt catch roll pin. This is not absolutely necessary but it makes installing this roll pin a heck of a lot easier.

Finally, a set of punches would be helpful.

This is one i usually use or similar but different brand: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3775-Electricians-Combination-Tool/dp/B000NPUK2A/ref=lp_553398_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1418488304&sr=1-6

If you want to go a little fancier :
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-11057-Tools-Kurve-Stripper-Cutter/dp/B000XEUPMQ/ref=lp_553398_1_8?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1418488304&sr=1-8

the nice thing about the second one is it will be easier to work with for smaller wires. The first is more of a jack of all wire strippers.

US here. sorry i
f you cant get these in Denmark.

Welcome to the hobby.

Let me make some tool/resource suggestions for you.

Resources:

Gunpla TV if you're just starting out in the hobby this should be your go to resource. www.hobbylink.tv/category/gunplatv

For your advanced tips and tutorials check out Hux's tutorial collection here. http://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/kzg5v/the_big_list_of_gunpla_tutorials_resources_100/

Tools:

These are the tools I use.

Side cutters

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320331584&sr=8-1

Sanding Pads (fine and extra fine)

http://www.amazon.com/3M-916DCNA-Contour-Surface-Sanding/dp/B00004Z49L/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1320331548&sr=1-2

X-acto knife

http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3601-Precision-Knife-Safety/dp/B00009R8JZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1320331502&sr=8-3

Painting:

If you're just stating out, hand brush and try rattle cans. Check out the tutorials for specifics.

A vise grip is also called a locking pliers. You can adjust it to the smallestest opening that will still lock on the bolt and it will grip super tight. You can get one at any hardware store for like $10 (assuming USA).

IRWIN VISE-GRIP Original Curved Jaw Locking Pliers with Wire Cutter, 10", 502L3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YO5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TmLZCb4PQH6NP

Thanks!

Here's my secret "weapon": https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6466-PVC-Pipe-Cutter/dp/B000NY4THS

It's made for cutting pvc pipe, but works great on vines. It's about the size of a pair of pliers.

Well, I don't think there are really that many specialized tools the average user would need. I guess if you want to do some minor modifications or sleeve your psu, you would really benefit from some specialty tools. Generally speaking, I think nearly everyone would benefit from:

• Assorted Cable Ties, 200-Piece - $5.48
  
  
• Compressed Gas Duster, 10oz Can, 2/Pack - $3.62
  
  
• Microfiber Cleaning Cloths - $6.50
  
  total: $15.60
  
  It goes without saying that you should also have a Phillips screwdriver, but who doesn't have one of those around anyway? Of course, there are some extras you might want if you're messing with your psu cables (like if you're sleeving them or whatever), installed and reinstalling coolers, I don't know. It is all stuff I've used with my PC at one time or another.
  
  
• Mini Cree Led Flashlight - $3.90
  
  
• mod/smart Full Pin Removal Tool Kit - $9.89
  
  
• Wire Stripper/Cutter - $6.58
  
  
• Electrical Tape - $4.42
  
  
• Thermal Compound Paste 3.5g - $8.22
  
  total: $48.61
  
  I don't know why you'd really want that ultra-mega-deluxe $49 kit I put together, unless you're certain you will be modding your pc. If you want to be all hardcore you could get a soldering iron just for your pc, but I wouldn't recommend doing that unless you already have experience. Seriously though, everyone should get some cable ties and compressed air.

That's great to hear! I guess if I'm not happy with the result, I could always go back and fix it. Although Would it be better to go with another 00 then rather than a RG? Considering this would be my first time that is?

Also I was planning on buying the ones the guide linked to on Amazon:
Xuron 410 Micro-Shear Flush Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WjCIzb3B9QYHJ

^ I started about a week ago and this is where I started.
His recommendations are solid and all of the tools are amazing so far.

Only thing I switched out was the snipperz because I had heard that these last longer(?) but I have never used any others so I wouldn't know.

4 Kits in and still going strong.

It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):

• Small screwdriver set OR Hex set OR a combo set. Which one will depend on the RBA you get, but eventually you'll probably find yourself with ones that have Phillips and Hex screws.
  
• Butane Torch. You can get this same one on Fasttech for $4 if you don't mind the shipping time.
  
• Wire cutters, either full size or micros
  
• Pliers, I also have a set of channel locks accessible, but not in my normal kit, mainly to try and get my Bombshell Stinger apart
  
• A generic desk light or something like helping hands can save a lot of headaches.
  
• Cheap multimeters can be found from $5 - $20
  
• Exacto knife because knives always come in handy at some point (rule #9)
  
  Other generic stuff:
  
  
• Toothpicks (great for wrapping coils around)
  
• Cotton swabs, cotton balls and paper towels
  
• Bic lighter
  
• Scissors for cutting wick (I use the wire cutters, but if you have micros, 3mm wick might get messy/frayed)

If you can afford that S3, you can afford some decent tools:

cable stretcher

cable cutter

If you shop around, both can be had for about $25 each during sales. Well worth it considering an LBS visit is usually more than $50.

And just to double-check because the pads aren't of the vibrant color variety, but be sure that the pads used on the Zipps are not the pads from use with alloy braking surfaces. Carbon requires a special brake pad.

Just get a short spool of some 16 gauge wire from Home Depot or whatever the budget brands are at your local electronics store. Cheapest brand will do, especially if you're just testing. I think Amazon makes their own speaker wire as well.


You'll need a wire stripper like this.


Just strip off 1/4" of the insulation from each side using the "AWG" number of your wire (16 if you bought 16 gauge). Twist the coper and put them in the binding post of your receiver and speakers. Connect black to black, red to red... etc. And you're all good.

Even in the slowest setting my dremel would be too fast, and even the small sanding wheel would be WAY too big to sand that print.

When sanding a 3D print you want to use wet/dry sand paper, the black sandpaper. Getting it wet and moving slowly will reduce building up heat which could warp the print.

Before sanding you may want to trim supports with a flesh cutter a tool like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_aKt5CbB6PMGJX

An X-acto knife would also be useful.

If you want something better than a pair of fingernail clippers.
I bought a pair of these microshears. Best tool for the job.

[I love these wire cutters] (http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K?ie=UTF8&keywords=wire%20cutters&qid=1462906097&ref_=sr_1_3&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-3)

[These are nice for coil building and getting tight fitting tanks apart] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D71MIYO?psc=1)

Amazon is your friend.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JVXVKB0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1422324544&sr=8-2

100' 28g Kanthal $6 (I use 26g on my subtank, but 28 works too. This is just the first one that showed up)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000TCD51A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1422324636

More Japanese cotton than you will know what to do with $8

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPDG1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1422324748

Angle cutters, not needed but it makes getting a clean cut very easy $5

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004800I6Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?qid=1422324973

Precision screw driver set, also not needed but handy for both the fact that they are in fact screw drivers and that you can use the slotted ones for wrap coils with a consistent and known inner diameter. $8 (you can get this for a lot less at Walmart, Lowes, harbor freight... Etc)

So a little over $25 shipped and you will not need kanthal or cotton for a very long time.

For sure my man! Here you go , works wonders for me and the cuts are super clean!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/

These are my favorite, I’ve gone through like 10 of them and I highly recommend getting more then one pair. You’ll end up using them for everything

I was going to say. Not expensive, either

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K

As long as they are flush-cutting kind of side cutters like this, and not the other that leaves a razor-sharp triangular end on the cable tie when you cut it.

Have deployed thousands of cable ties with cutters like this, they don't leave any sharp ends.

They're also much more compact - I've done plenty of work where the "cable tie gun" tool simply wouldn't fit - and are small enough to slip under most cable ties to remove them without endangering the cables too, truly the best multi-purpose tool.

Snips are alright but they do have a tendency to wear your hands down after a while... These are a little easier on your hands, although they have cut fewer rings at a time.

You do have an excellent way with words so good job with that, you make it very accessible.

Youtube can be very helpful. While not absolutely required, a coil jig and flush cutters are great to have. For wire, get SS 316L.

Got a soldering iron for Christmas and dove right in. This is my third 60% build, and by far my favorite.

Parts

• Clear acrylic case and Gat greens from Sentraq
  
• PCB from TechKeys
  
• Black aluminum plate and Cherry stabs from Originative
  
• DSA keycaps (PBT) from PMK
  
• LEDs from switchTop
  
• E-Projects 200 Ohm Resistors from Amazon
  
  

  Tools
  

• Solder sucker
  
• Heat Resistant Soldering Mat
  
• Hakko FX888D Soldering Station
  
• Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031"
  
• Klein Tools Lightweight Flush Cutter
  
  I'm still tweaking my QMK keymap, but will contribute it to the repo once I get it to a good spot.
  

Step one: don't use a raft unless you absolutely have to. If you do have to, invest in a pair of these and go to town. Heat gun/butane torch will also help if used very carefully.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/

​

As for making the top smooth, that's all about your printer calibration and settings. Without seeing what the top looks like or your settings I can't help with that one.

I'm looking at these for snips actually.

My first choice at the moment is the derringer clone with the velocity posts (like you said). I just like the shorter look of the derringer and I keep hearing about how that's best for flavor. Is this what you're referring to in regards to "v2 clone" though?

You're welcome. Paladin (and their cheaper entry-level Datashark brand) also has some decent offerings if you want something more "name brand" but still inexpensive.

Paladin:

Crimpers

Stripper

Tester

The Paladin stripper works really well; I think I prefer that one to the cheap Monoprice one I purchased (though it gets the job done). Both are adjustable for different thickness wire / sheathing.

Datashark:

Crimpers

Striper

Tester

The Datashark crimpers lack a ratcheting mechanism, so I'm not a huge fan of them, but a coworker owns a pair and they work fine. The testers from both are nearly identical, and don't really offer any more functions than the cheap no-name import ones do (except perhaps a better warranty).

Those style strippers aren't great for small stuff, below 20ga they can be unreliable. I use them for 10-18ga mostly since I do car wiring.

I have a few different ones. Back side picture. The ones on the left are junk, I would wear them out in under 100 strips, I keep a pair in my car tool bag. Irwins have done thousands of strips and are still great. Blackhawk are a bit better than the Irwins, I like the screw set on the depth gauge and the hole that lets the insulation fall out the back.

Looking at the depth gauge I wouldn't be surprised if those Stanleys came off the same line as the Irwins, looks identical other than the handles.

I use this style for small stuff. Never found any auto strippers that would do below 24ga reliably.

I was using nail clippers for a long time, and I noticed they got dull pretty quickly. I picked up these, and they work like a charm. Cut like butter, and cut nice, and close to the post.

Super easy with one of these..
RIDGID 32975 Model 103 Close Quarters Tubing Cutter, 1/8-inch to 5/8-inch Tube Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDGNCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gVIvCbPDB4Z10

CHP-170 Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/

These are fantastic cutters that have served me well for a long time. Highly recommended for this application and not expensive.

No offense, but your title implies nail clippers are the #1 way to remove nubs for model kits, when they are definitely not. As someone who used nail clippers to remove nubs since building Tomy Zoids in the early 2000s for over 15 kits, I had become experienced (and tired) with them.

They leave terrible gash marks, are uncomfortable to use after working on a kit for hours at a time, cannot reach into odd spaces which you mentioned, and can get dull after a short while if you work on kits occasionally as well as clip your nasty-ass nails.

Maybe you have fancy nail clippers that are comfortable, are extremely sharp, and cheap, but I imagine most people have ordinary dull nail clippers meant solely for cutting nails.

These side cutters have been with me since I started the hobby last year. I've been through 9 kits in varying grade and they haven't stopped being a good tool. I've also used them for cutting brass rods, paper clips, wood, etc.

If you really really prefer them over proper cutters then I can't be one to judge, but in the long run a good pair of nippers will be your best friend (along with your hobby knife)

I just started after 20+ years, literally got my stuff yesterday in the mail. I decided to go warhammer 40k, space wolves.

I read alot before I made any decision, these two links helped me a bit:

http://www.reddit.com/r/warhammerFAQ/comments/1nzxps/the_definitive_guide_to_getting_started_in/

http://www.reddit.com/r/warhammerFAQ/comments/1nzzag/the_definitive_guide_to_getting_started_in/

From a painting perspective I started with these:

http://www.reddit.com/r/warhammerFAQ/comments/msf23/guide_to_painting_warhammer_models_part_i/

http://www.reddit.com/r/warhammerFAQ/comments/mtz5u/guide_to_painting_warhammer_models_part_ii/


I also watched a TON of painting tutorials and product reviews on youtube.

That being said, here's what i've got so far:

Brushes:

Windsor and Newton Series 7 size 00, 0, 1
Army painter wargamer regiment - for base coating stuff

Paints/Modeling Materials:

I went with citadel b/c Im following the codex color scheme. GW has paint bundles for the type of army you are building. Many others use Vallejo and reaper paints as well.

Green stuff/liquid green stuff - I need to buy this to fill in some gaps I have in my models.

Tools:
Xacto knife and blades

Micro clippers - http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427198666&sr=8-3&keywords=micro+clippers

There are many other tools you can get, depends on how far you want to go. Hopefully it helps.

You need speaker wire. Unless you need very long lengths 16 gauge wire is good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Gauge-Speaker-Oxygen-Copper/dp/B01N6EF3GZ

And a wire cutter for a clean job:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3797-7-Inch-Stripper-Cutter/dp/B00AZWWY2K

You can also buy banana plugs to install at the tips. Once you do this you never have to waste time inserting bare wire carefully into the posts.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2/143-4216225-4180333?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0097JLQVC&pd_rd_r=9abe4956-cd3f-4392-835d-422b349f4f55&pd_rd_w=w5ces&pd_rd_wg=578Lx&pf_rd_p=6e6afc8a-fbbd-4649-97cf-4e08f5113612&pf_rd_r=ZXGYDM5KD6H0FC4Z4S8M&psc=1&refRID=ZXGYDM5KD6H0FC4Z4S8M

You can't go wrong with the Park CN-10.

For years I just used a pair of linesman pliers, hitting it with a mallet would usually get me a good clean cut. Housings I'd just hacksaw or Dremel.

Once I picked up the Park, it was like "Holy shit".

Protip : The next time you send the grunts to cable up a new install, include a pair of inexpensive micro cutters. This makes removing all of the stupid twist ties go much more quickly and is far better on your fingers.

Bonus, these are also excellent for safely removing troublesome nylon zipties to be replaced with superiour velcro.

Lmao, same exact thing happened to me bro. Do yourself a favor and grab a pair of these, they're amazing..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPDG1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522560592&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wire+cutter&dpPl=1&dpID=414t7uLh8KL&ref=plSrch

I would recommend these guys https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485458301&sr=8-2&keywords=side%2Bcutters&th=1 for cutting the plastic next time. I was checking your stream out and it seemed you were using some pretty bulking cutters.

Also, you can open switches with this pretty easily as well!

You're right, of course, and I wish you well with your marriage.

But you forgot the other option: A finger tattoo is as simple to remove as the finger itself is. It's cheap, too: one of these will get the job done neatly.

(And then you can mail it back to them!)

Ah yeah those will cut but you need something that will cut shorter. I found these on Amazon they work great!

you can probably find the wire cutters at walmart too, I think I bought a pack that had a mix of pliers and other things with the clippers. These were recommended on some thread a while back.

Amazon Link

The exacto knife doesn't matter, you'll be using it to cut off excess sprue and scrape mold lines off so if its smaller that'd be best, maybe like pencil size. Mine has some ridges on the handle that doubles as a file too.

A pair of flush-cut nippers was a game-changer for me. I find they're extremely helpful for removing the parts from the sprues. Something like these should work fine while you're starting out.

Agreed. I had to fight that instinct to save the twist-ties in case they're needed later, but between that and snips, the only thing left to complain about is the waste-- plastic bags, cardboard labels, and all the snipped-open twist-ties.

I use these wire snips, which cost $5 at Amazon. The point is sharp enough that you can get under a right tie and confidently snip the tie without worrying that some cable will blunder into the way. And if you're making your own cable, it's great for snipping off a bad plug, getting the length of the twisted pairs even, etc., and less unwieldy than the bits of the crimping tool that do those same things.

Among other things, I use this for small wires. Under $5 on Amazon.

You can get assorted packs of resistors from eBay or AliExpress. A quick glance shows one seller offering 35 different common values, 10 through 4.7M, 20 pieces each, 1/4W, for $3 shipped. For most applications. Your biggest headache is keeping them sorted nicely so you won't spend half a day trying to find the one you need.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned WinPE... Go find a guide on how to create a bootable WinPE 3.0 image with all the tools. It's immensely useful for changing boot partitions (bcdboot.exe) and capturing images (imagex.exe).

Also snips/shears. Like these ones:http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1323835862&sr=8-8

You would definitely need speaker wire (and wire stripper tool) to connect the Miccas to the amp, and then either an aux cable or an aux-to-rca Y-cable to connect the amp to your source (laptop, phone, etc.)

• Wire Stripper
  
• Speaker Wire
  
• Aux Cable
  
  Hope this helps
  

You can't unscrew it because it's a compression fitting. Meaning there's a brass ring behind the nut in the valve which becomes compressed to create the water tight fit and hold he valve in place. This ring and the nut won't come off.

You need something like this. They're sold anywhere plumbing supplies are.

Ridgid Tools 32975 1/8-Inch To 5/8-Inch Close Quarters Tubing Cutter https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000LDGNCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XLBrDbP96EPJK

Flush Cutter, aka flush-cutting plier

The CHP-170 is pretty good and it's less than $5 on Amazon

These are pretty good for the price:

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Maximum-Capacity/dp/B076M3ZHBV

Honestly, not really. They are nice snippers, you won’t dislike them if you get them but they are not all that much better than a set of Xuron clippers that you can get for half (not far from a third) of the price.

Flush cutters. This pair and this pair are the industry standard workhorse. Absolutely essential tools.

PanaVise clamps are a must have. This one and this one are my favorites.

A manually operated solder sucker will be an important buy as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI

Best side cutters money can buy, IMO. I used to work at a plastic injection molding company as a machine operator and these blue-handled Xuron cutters were the standard tool for cutting and trimming parts fresh out of the press.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IKCGLM

Those are by far my favorite wick scissors.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B076M3ZHBV

That's my favorite pair of wire cutters.

Yep, that's gonna be a pain to cut without a laser, water jet, or edm. Dremel is probably your best bet, the nibblers won't be fine enough. If the sheet is thin enough you might be able to use clippers. Maybe something like https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ? I've never tried.

Edit: at .008" you can definitely get away with the flush cutters. Heck, you might be able to get away with nail
clippers.

Build Your Own Clone

I doubt you'd keep track of any more websites I could mention above once you find a few kits there. As far as equipment goes, get:

A decent soldering iron ... Alternative (please also get this with the alternative)

Solder

Micro Cutters to trim leads

Hopefully you have a small flat-head screwdriver to set knobs and a small flat pair of pliers to attach hardware to the enclosures.

I doubt you'd need to but if you ever need to get any components that aren't supplied with a kit, go to Tayda Electronics for nearly any part (they tend to be cheapest for hobbyists, you can find anything from passive components like resistors and capacitors, to knobs/switches/audio and power jacks, etc.).

I have this problem some times. I use a pair of wire snips to cut the excess so it doesn’t pull the filament and make it uneven. The snips are also the best way to cut zip ties I have ever found. Also good for cutting supports off flat:

CHP-170 Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1DXLBb3P7GDED

THIRTY FLIPPING DOLLARS? Sweet Jayzus don't waste your money on that...

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408467855&sr=8-2&keywords=xuron+cutter

Remember, kids, GW exists solely on the dollars they overcharge for their products. If they have it, it probably exists at a third the price in any hobby shop anywhere in the world. Tools, paints, glues, all of it.

Get a pair of PCB flush cutters like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=pcb+flush+cutter&qid=1569304958&s=gateway&sr=8-11

they're usually for snipping away excess resistor legs and solder, but they lay nice and flat, so they can edge their way under that raft for you to snip away. I use mine more for cleaning prints than circuit boards.

8" mini bolt cutters are awesome for that sort of thing. They're definitely worth getting, even if you're not a Knipex fanboy.


Knipex also sells "Twinforce" double leverage side cutters that are supposedly good at that sort of thing, but I much prefer the mini bolt cutters. The "Twinforce" cutters are also really expensive.

Yeah, I bought these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IBSFAI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work perfectly. It just takes a few seconds per switch. I'll clip the pins in a paper bag so they don't go flying when they're cut.

For anyone interested in buying a tool like this: www.amazon.com/Self-Adjusting-Stripper-Klein-Tools-11061/dp/B00CXKOEQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526976110&sr=8-1

You mean these?

http://imgur.com/gallery/Jmu5C

Those are some binding/terminal blocks I made awhile back for testing speakers/drivers, etc. I can plug in cables with banana plugs on them, and clip on to the terminals to test different drivers, etc.

There's some led tape/strip lighting under the top most shelf, and a clamp on adjustable led light with magnifying glass built in. I can swing it in when I need, and out of the way otherwise.

I think the magnifying lamp is this one: https://amzn.com/B00UW2IRJ2

The diagonal flush cutters are:
https://amzn.com/B000IBSFAI

and the small nose pliers are:
https://amzn.com/B0006N73BU

The little parts boxes are from a Bosch organizer:
https://amzn.com/B00BD5G6X6

There's cheaper options, but I had the organizer and extra bins so I used those.

Fire extinguisher is a Kidde ~3lb standard fire extinguisher. An absolute must imo.

The drawers are great, when I'm properly using them I can keep the desk clutter free.

Generally when I'm working on a project, if it's going to take longer than an hour or so, I put all the parts needed into bins, organize/label all the components. Then get started on the build. I have a small whiteboard to the left of the desk that I can pin up schematics, and take any quick notes while I'm cussing myself for forgetting something obvious.

I recently bought these wire cutters from Amazon. They are excellent in tight spaces. And cheap, too.

Get a normal sized pipe cutter and one of the spring-loaded AutoCut's in whatever size(s) you need.

The "imp cutter" you have described sucks balls. It's uncomfortable to grip and if you're in a tight area it's usually a bitch to deal with tightening the blade as well.

The larger one will be much easier to use and adequate for nearly all tasks. The only time you need something smaller is in very tight areas where the larger one won't fit, and in that case, the AutoCutter is awesome and MUCH more comfortable and easier to use than the "Imp." Keep in mind the AutoCut does take a LOT of turning to get through the pipe. Snap it on, it will go one or two rotations with some resistance, then it feels like it's just freespinning and not doing anything, but keep going for 6 or 7 more rotations and it will eventually get through.

Buy a flaring tool. They're cheap usually. Same with the cutter and bender. You can use lines from Napa as well as the fittings. Just use the same size line as what's being replaced. If you can't find a fitting that mates with the old one you can always replace the old fitting by cutting the flare off the line, sliding a new one on, and then reflaring.

I had to replace all the lines on my father in law's F350 and once you get it down its pretty cake.

This is a very useful tool and will significantly cut down the work time you spent. However, I think that this will serve you better in the long run as it will contain a lot of the basic tools that you will need for this hobby.

I have one similar to this. It works pretty well.

Not bad for the first time. Did you trim the leads before you inserted them? I highly recommend you get these wire cutters. These cut through wire like butter and thin enough to get to tight spaces.

Hehe. Interestingly, this is where my hobbies collide. If you want to work with Styrofoam, THIS is what you need: http://www.amazon.com/Woodland-Scenics-Wire-Foam-Cutter/dp/B0006KSMEU

I learned this making terrain for miniature games like Warhammer.

I find making the cables to be the nicest looking.

• Tool kit: Lamptron Modding Tool Kit - $21.99
  
• Crimper: IWISS SN-48B Pin Crimping Tool - $18.98
  
• Paracord - Paracord Planet Type III 7 Strand 550 Paracord - $6.59
  
• Cable Cutter - Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter - $5.99
  
• Knife - Gerber EAB Lite Pocket Knife - $9.00
  
• Combs - 24 Pin PC Cable Comb - $6.49
  
  I find the tool kit, cable cutter, knife and combs to be necessary. However you could use scissors instead of the knife and cutter, go without the combs, and use paper clips and small screwdrivers instead of the tool kit.
  
  The paracord has a million options and is very cheap. Buy too much.
  
  If you're really careful, you don't need heatshrink. However if you need it, it's really cheap.

Not really a multi tool, but hands down the tool for cutting anything is the Knipex CoBolt cutters. Cut any wire like it is nothing, including large gauge high tensile strength wire that is harder than any chain link. And only 8 inches long.

For flush cutters/snippers (don't need two tools really) get either:

• https://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-170M-General-Shearcutter-Diagonal/dp/B0002BBZIS or
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K
  
  Even the cheapest ESD tweezers are ok for holding components, get a kit that includes angled ones if you're going to do a bunch of SMD.
  
  These are good also: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-3-SA-Non-Magnetic-Microelectronics-Applications/dp/B00FZPEWI6

I used a pair of cutters from this amazon link.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They work great for flush trimming stuff.
I think I saw some of those at home depot last week if you are in the US and are near one of those...

You can get tools to specifically cut cable sheathing. If it happens to fit one of the sizes in the tool below.

https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Stripper-Stripping-Multitool-Telephone/dp/B07NGQ6N82/ref=mp_s_a_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1550157523&sr=8-25&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cable+sheath+cutter




The more versatile option is the cheap wire strippers with an adjustable stop. I used them a ton when I was a kid. My dad loved them for some reason.

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Stripper-Cutter-2078305/dp/B000JNLUQ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1550157593&sr=8-25&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Wire+stripper