Reddit mentions: The best handsaws

We found 395 Reddit comments discussing the best handsaws. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 148 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

4. Gyokucho Razorsaw Ryoba Saw 180mm No. 291

This blade can be removed and replacedBlade length 7"Overall length 15"Tilted handle allows access to awkward placesCompact enough to fit in tool bag
Gyokucho Razorsaw Ryoba Saw 180mm No. 291
Specs:
ColorSilver
Height0.9055118101 Inches
Length7.086614166 Inches
Number of items1
Weight0.330693393 Pounds
Width0.01968503935 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

7. 9" Shinto Saw Rasp

    Features:
  • Hardened Steel Teeth
  • Teeth Designed To Prevent Clogging
  • Double sided: Coarse and Fine
9" Shinto Saw Rasp
Specs:
ColorOriginal version
Height1.5500030968442 inches
Length4.6500092905326 inches
SizeStandard
Weight0.440924524 Pounds
Width0.7750015484221 inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

17. GreatNeck BSB14 12 Inch Mitre Box with 14 Inch Back Saw

12" Miter box & saw comes with a 14" Back saw12" Miter box and a ruler edgeLifetime warranty
GreatNeck BSB14 12 Inch Mitre Box with 14 Inch Back Saw
Specs:
ColorYellow
Height1 Inches
Length1 Inches
Number of items1
SizeOne Size
Weight1 Pounds
Width1 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on handsaws

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where handsaws are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 54
Number of comments: 5
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 47
Number of comments: 12
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 20
Number of comments: 7
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 17
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 16
Number of comments: 6
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 8
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 4
Total score: 7
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 6
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 5
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 4
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1

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Top Reddit comments about Handsaws:

u/capilot · 1 pointr/woodworking

Trying to stick with Amazon...

General: do not get no-name generic Chinese tools. These will fail in no time.

Cheap tools are the more expensive. Partly through the damage they cause and the time they waste, and partly because you're going to throw them away and get the good ones anyway eventually.

Get some good screwdrivers. Yellow plastic handles with rubber grips. Stanley used to be good, but apparently not any more. Most screwdriver sets contain more screwdrivers than you need. Klein seems to be the brand to get now, but they're quite expensive. I'm not a fan of multi-bit drivers, but this one looks pretty good and you can't beat the price: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-32477-Screwdriver-Driver/dp/B0002RI5EY/

This looks like a superb set, but at $60 it really eats into your budget: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-85078-Cushion-Grip-Screwdriver/dp/B000ABADXI/

Saws: Get the Japanese pull saws. I like my Ryoba. There's a plastic-handled version at http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ that's pretty good. The one that abnormal_human linked to is an excellent choice. I would go with that. In fact, it's going on my wish list.

Power tools: You won't regret getting a 14 or 18-volt DeWalt electric drill. There are a couple of 18-volt tools on sale at Amazon right now. Don't argue; just get one. Don't forget drill bits. I like the cobalt, but Titanium is good.

I wouldn't bother with any other power tools; the good ones cost money and the cheap ones will only bring you grief.

Do this: buy a cheap but complete set of HSS bits. As they wear out, replace them one by one with cobalt. I got mine at Costco. I didn't see any on Amazon.

Get a tape measure. I wouldn't spend $25 if money is an object. This is probably the single-most important purchase.

Get as many clamps as you can afford. Not metal C-clamps; those are for metal working. Irwin quick-grip or clone and Jorgensen or Bessey bar clamps are your best value here.

Chisels: I'm not sure you need these for a minimalist wood shop, but if you get them, get a 1/4" and 1/2" chisel. That's all you really need. abnormal_human linked to a pretty good sharpening stone. Japanese chisels are the best, but they'll bust your budget, and until you learn to sharpen them well, they'll be a waste of money. Just get a cheap Stanley or DeWalt set. Expensive chisels will come pre-honed. Cheap ones you should hone for best results. You need to learn to hone them anyway.

Don't spend $50 on tweezers. But get a good pair at your local drug store and get a pair with the longest, sharpest, pointiest working end you can find. And a magnifying glass so you can see the splinters.

Get a 12" combination square. Don't get an expensive one, but don't get a no-name tool either. Some of them have a built-in level which you will never use.

Get a large carpenter's square. They're cheap.

I wouldn't get a card scraper. They're nice, but hard to sharpen and you really need a burnisher ($22) to do it properly.

Consider buying the hardware to build a good workbench. And by that, I mean a good bench vise. A very good one can run you around $200, but this one looks pretty good for $21: http://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-38-736-Hobby-WoodworkerS/dp/B002I2KFMG/ and $66 will get you this very decent one: http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4026-Cabinet-Makers-Vise/dp/B005W16LVE/

ETA: If you still have budget left for power tools, a random orbital sander is nice and not too expensive. I'm using a borrowed Ryobi and I have had zero issues with it. (I'm not normally a fan of Ryobi, but this one is pretty good. http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Ryobi-ZRRS290-5-Inch-Random/dp/B001HTPSKK/

Finally: a cheap Wixley or iGuaging digital caliper is a good investment. Within a week of buying one, I was wondering how I'd survived so long without it.

u/SoftwareMaven · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Woodworking with power tools revolves around the table saw. If you go that path, get the best one you possibly can. But used so your money goes father.

Woodworking with hand tools needs a few things:

  • A saw. A $30 Japanese saw with crosscut blade on one side and rip cut on the other is a great way to start if you aren't already an experienced sawyer. If you want to buy local, don't buy the crappy ones from Home Depot or Lowe's. You can get a good one from Woodcraft.
  • Chisels. Even the $10 six pack of chisels from Harbor Freight will work great. You have to sharpen a little more often, but it's much easier to get a keen edge.
  • A pounder. This can be a rubber mallet, a nylon mallet, or a stick. My first project was making a wooden mallet. I used a rubber mallet I already owned while making it.
  • A smoother. The best option is a bench plane (a used #4 Stanley, Record, or other pre-WWII plane is ideal; you can get fully restored planes on eBay for $75-90; you can buy a new Wood River at Woodcraft for under $150; or you can restore one (only do this if that process interests you). Stay away from new planes under $100). A secondary option is sandpaper. You will never match a plane's finish with sandpaper (literally glass-like), and some tasks, like stock removal, will be much more difficult or even impossible, but it is pretty cheap to get started.
  • A sharpener. On the cheap, you can use the "Scary Sharp" system using sandpaper and some thick glass to get started (I use a glass shelf I bought at Home Depot when I want to sharpen with sandpaper). For more money up front but less over time, you can use whetstones (water or oil) or diamond plates (I have a cheap $3 eBay-special 150 and 400 grit diamond plates to flatten my water stones and for major material removal, and I have two two-sided waterstones with 400/1000 and 4000/8000 grit for most sharpening). A $15 honing guide can make things much easier if you have coordination like me, but you probably want to spend a few minutes tweaking it to get best results.
  • Some marking/measuring tools. A marking gauge, a combination square (you will want to check and, if necessary, adjust it), a marking knife (a small pocket knife or utility knife works), and, maybe, a small tape measure. The tape measure gets used the least; most measurements are relative measurements made using the marking gauge.

    I'm a big believer in starting small and cheap and working my way up. With a few hand tools, you can get started for under $200 and have everything you need to make good quality stuff. The skills you learn with those tools will transfer to every project in the future, no matter how big. Fine joinery is the same, whether the boards are cut with a hand saw or a table saw, and you will never learn to read wood with a power jointer, planer and table saw like you will with a handsaw and bench plane.

    As you reach competency with these tools, you can decide how you want to expand your tools to achieve more. That may be more hand tools like a dovetail saw, additional planes, cabinet scrapers, etc, or it may be power tools with a table saw, band saw, dust collector, etc. Or it may be somewhere in the middle.

    Personally, I do this for relaxation, so a quiet shop and a face free of respirators and face shields is much better to me. Since I am in no hurry to finish projects, I use primarily hands tools (I have a few power tools from a previous life that I'll pull out on very rare occasions. I think often about selling them).

    If getting stuff done drives you, though, power tools are a great way to do that. It changes woodworking a little because it becomes a skill of setting machines up correctly (not a trivial skill!) to get the correct cut.

    The Wood Whisperer, who coined the phrase and, literally, wrote the book, Hybrid Woodworking, does a pretty good job blending hand and power tools. If I cared more about getting things done (and had the space and money to devote to it), that would be the path I would follow.
u/gfixler · 9 pointsr/DIY

Something most people don't know about is saw teeth profiles. The notches in the top boards are cross cuts, but the ones in the end of the bottom piece are rip cuts. Saw teeth for crosscuts are designed like knives to slice the fibers through their sides, and look like this, and like this viewed down their teeth edge. Each space between the teeth is filed at an angle to the face of the saw, which bevels the back of one tooth on one side, and the front of the other tooth on the other side. They go every other tooth like that, and then angle the opposite way for the rest. Each saw will have bevels on one side, and a flat side on the other. However, in ripping, these teeth will be pulled around by the grain and can create really difficult, ragged, ugly cuts.

Think of wood like a tightly-packed bundle of very thin straws. A knife will cut nicely through the side of all of them, but in the end of the piece it will jam up between the straws as it wedges between them, and the tips will be pulled left and right as they snake their way between the straws. To counter this, rip saws are filed flat, with no 'fleem' (that angle at which crosscut saw teeth are ground), and work instead like chisels, shearing off the ends of the fibers. They look like this, boringly flat, and like this from the end.

Btw the teeth are bent to alternating sides in those end views in a process called 'setting,' and the angle at which every other tooth is bent to one side is called the saw's set. This just creates a cut slightly wider than the saw so it won't bind up with friction, especially as wood swells a bit when warmed by said friction. If you or anyone reading this are curious, those images come from this excellent primer on filing saws, something I'll be getting into soon with a really big crosscut saw (been doing a lot of research for it).

Pull saws are a bit easier and more precise than what we use in America. These are the standard Japanese craftsmen saws that are very flexible and cut on the pull stroke only. These have found their way into American markets, and you can get this one right at Home Depot in the tool aisle. I have one, and it works well. The teeth on one side are filed for crosscutting, and on the other for ripping, so you can do both easily and get the best result. Just practice on some scrap, learning to stay in the lines and to pull instead of push. It's pretty easy. Use it to saw the lines perpendicular to the edge - the ones that get you down to the depth line of your mortises (that's what what you're trying to cut are called).

For the other line at the base of each cut - the one that you can't easily saw - go for chisels (a new Buck Bros. - tool aisle at Home Depot - about 3/4"-1"), but I'll recommend some simple things to get the best results. For one, the reason you can't chisel straight down through the entire thing is there's nowhere for the waste to go. Chisels 'peel' off material in shavings, but when you chisel into the middle of a block - as you'll be doing when chiseling here - you can't peel the entire block - it's far too rigid - and if you do knock it off entirely, it's likely you'll have also torn out good wood from the opposite side in the break. However, you can give yourself space easily.

Just get a nice big drill bit and drill holes in the scrap close to, but not touching the line. Drill only halfway through the stock, but do it from both sides - meet in the center. This way you don't accidentally drill out at an angle through the non-scrap region on the opposite side. After you have holes across the whole thing with very little wood in between, you can probably break the block out with a hammer, or by bending it with your fingers. Before you do that, hammer the chisel across the full line on each side pretty deeply to score it so the piece breaking out won't break out non-scrap wood from the other side of the lines.

Now you can chisel from both sides to clean out the rest of the scrap. Just put the thing on a strong workbench, line the chisel up with the line, flat side toward your good wood, beveled side toward the scrap you're removing, chisel held straight up and down, perpendicular to the wood face, and give it some hits with a hammer. Start light so you understand how it feels if you've not done it before.

Don't chisel all the way from one side to the other. You'll tear out the good wood on the opposite side, and you can't see your line while it's on the bottom, so you might miss it. Instead, chisel from one edge to the middle, then flip the board and go to the middle again from the other side. This is how the pro's do it, and it'll give you perfect lines on each side, exactly where you want them, because you can line up the chisel perfectly, then hit it with the hammer. You can even saw a little inside the lines, then use this technique to clean up each side right to the line perfectly - another standard pro method. Don't worry if the cut isn't straight through, or you drilled a little into the good wood in the middle of the piece - your outer, visible lines will be perfect, and any excess wood in the middle (like an inward bulge) will only serve to hold the pieces together in wedge-fashion, provided you can get them together at all. If not, just chisel a bit more out of the tight areas. Err on the side of too tight. You can always remove a little more inner material.

Oh, and please don't use a dado blade on mortises this deep, especially for that bottom piece. You really need a mortising rig for that, and they're huge and heavy, and the whole idea of mortising that deeply on a table saw scares the bejeebus out of me. Definitely not for a beginner!

u/nudelete · 1 pointr/Nudelete

>I have seen a few posts about people who don't have flood insurance, or any insurance on this subreddit (I hope its appropriate to post here) and I wanted to help you help yourself prepping to go back in to your home. I work remodeling homes, and commercial buildings and have a few tips for when you go back in your house to save a few thousand dollars.
>
>First thing is first, you need to expect total losses on a couple items; carpet and padding is gone, 100% don't bother keeping it. Drywall and plaster that have been submerged are also toast. Furniture may be salvageable, but if it has cloth or padding, assume its a loss. If it isn't REALLY expensive (custom, antique, or all sealed wood) its probably done for. These 3 things can cause health issues if not taken care of immediately. For your families sake, please don't hesitate to throw them away. Its all replaceable, your health is not.
>
>I'll preface this with the fact that I have never worked with FEMA, but only insurance companies. My knowledge and experience comes from working with them and if you have more information than I do, please add.
>
>
>
>
>
>How to prep your house:
>
>The VERY FIRST thing you do, is go to your main breaker panel, and make sure the electricity is shut off in the room you will be working. The odds of you getting shocked are negligable, but Murphy is always lurking. Once you have the breaker switched to the off position of that room you can begin the demo process.
>
>Unscrew the plates on the electrical outlets, and cable jacks. This will take a flat head screwdriver. Save these in a plastic ziplock bag to put back on later.
>
>If you have baseboard, and want to try to keep it (personally I'd just chuck it myself usually) you will need a razor knife. You will need one anyways so if you don't have one, purchase one. I'd recommend this one off amazon, but you can find simple razors for a couple bucks. The problem with cheeps, is they break easy, and you'll need the knife for your carpet too. Anyways, cut where the baseboard meets the wall, as there will be a paint layer and/or caulking there to seal it. Then use the flat head to pry the baseboard back. If you are trying to salvage the baseboard, be gentle and take your time. If you aren't trying to salvage it, bust it up and take out some anger on it.
>
>Next is your drywall. Here is a drywall saw I recommend. Go 6-8 inches above the waterline and punch it through the drywall (you can use your hand, but a hammer doesn't hurt as much) and cut it all. Rip out everything below your cut and throw it away. Then pull out any insulation in the walls, as they are soaked and compromised as well. This will help prevent mold growing in the walls.
>
>Leave any and all plumbing or electrical work exactly how it is.
>
>Next comes carpet. The carpet is only held on by tack strips (thin wooden pieces, with little nails in them) along the edges. Pull up the edges and the rest comes easy. Since the carpet is soaked, its going to be extremely heavy. This is why I would purchase the better razor knife, and cut the carpet in to pieces to haul it outside. By leaving the carpet until last, this will help your clean up from the dry wall, baseboard, and insulation immensely. The padding underneath will usually be stapled, or glued down, just rip it out.
>
>Turn the breakers back on, and put some fans in there if you have them. The more air movement the better. Obviously a lot of people won't be able to afford industrial style fans, but here is one for 40 bucks. If you can spare it, it will make a huge difference. The bigger the better, if you have the cash.
>
>I would leave cabinets where they are, and dry them out as quickly as possible. They will probably be replaced too, but once they are dry they pose no health risk, and you will probably still be using them to hold stuff until a contractor can replace them.
>
>These few things will save you thousand of dollars later on, and more importantly will keep your chances of being sick way down. In the insurance world(again I've never worked with FEMA), you get money for demolition, so you can pocket a good chunk of that, if not all of it depending on the contractors needs, and scope of work.
>
>I'd recommend getting a multi-tool as well, but they aren't necessary. They are just helpful. Here is what I use.
>
>I wish I could be there to help everyone out, and I hope this helps in some way. I'm praying for you all / sending good vibes and cash to you, but I hope this helps you out even more. Good luck, and if there is anything I can do, please don't hesitate to contact me.

u/underpopular · 1 pointr/underpopular

>I have seen a few posts about people who don't have flood insurance, or any insurance on this subreddit (I hope its appropriate to post here) and I wanted to help you help yourself prepping to go back in to your home. I work remodeling homes, and commercial buildings and have a few tips for when you go back in your house to save a few thousand dollars.
>
>First thing is first, you need to expect total losses on a couple items; carpet and padding is gone, 100% don't bother keeping it. Drywall and plaster that have been submerged are also toast. Furniture may be salvageable, but if it has cloth or padding, assume its a loss. If it isn't REALLY expensive (custom, antique, or all sealed wood) its probably done for. These 3 things can cause health issues if not taken care of immediately. For your families sake, please don't hesitate to throw them away. Its all replaceable, your health is not.
>
>I'll preface this with the fact that I have never worked with FEMA, but only insurance companies. My knowledge and experience comes from working with them and if you have more information than I do, please add.
>
>
>
>
>
>How to prep your house:
>
>The VERY FIRST thing you do, is go to your main breaker panel, and make sure the electricity is shut off in the room you will be working. The odds of you getting shocked are negligable, but Murphy is always lurking. Once you have the breaker switched to the off position of that room you can begin the demo process.
>
>Unscrew the plates on the electrical outlets, and cable jacks. This will take a flat head screwdriver. Save these in a plastic ziplock bag to put back on later.
>
>If you have baseboard, and want to try to keep it (personally I'd just chuck it myself usually) you will need a razor knife. You will need one anyways so if you don't have one, purchase one. I'd recommend this one off amazon, but you can find simple razors for a couple bucks. The problem with cheeps, is they break easy, and you'll need the knife for your carpet too. Anyways, cut where the baseboard meets the wall, as there will be a paint layer and/or caulking there to seal it. Then use the flat head to pry the baseboard back. If you are trying to salvage the baseboard, be gentle and take your time. If you aren't trying to salvage it, bust it up and take out some anger on it.
>
>Next is your drywall. Here is a drywall saw I recommend. Go 6-8 inches above the waterline and punch it through the drywall (you can use your hand, but a hammer doesn't hurt as much) and cut it all. Rip out everything below your cut and throw it away. Then pull out any insulation in the walls, as they are soaked and compromised as well. This will help prevent mold growing in the walls.
>
>Leave any and all plumbing or electrical work exactly how it is.
>
>Next comes carpet. The carpet is only held on by tack strips (thin wooden pieces, with little nails in them) along the edges. Pull up the edges and the rest comes easy. Since the carpet is soaked, its going to be extremely heavy. This is why I would purchase the better razor knife, and cut the carpet in to pieces to haul it outside. By leaving the carpet until last, this will help your clean up from the dry wall, baseboard, and insulation immensely. The padding underneath will usually be stapled, or glued down, just rip it out.
>
>Turn the breakers back on, and put some fans in there if you have them. The more air movement the better. Obviously a lot of people won't be able to afford industrial style fans, but here is one for 40 bucks. If you can spare it, it will make a huge difference. The bigger the better, if you have the cash.
>
>I would leave cabinets where they are, and dry them out as quickly as possible. They will probably be replaced too, but once they are dry they pose no health risk, and you will probably still be using them to hold stuff until a contractor can replace them.
>
>These few things will save you thousand of dollars later on, and more importantly will keep your chances of being sick way down. In the insurance world(again I've never worked with FEMA), you get money for demolition, so you can pocket a good chunk of that, if not all of it depending on the contractors needs, and scope of work.
>
>I'd recommend getting a multi-tool as well, but they aren't necessary. They are just helpful. Here is what I use.
>
>I wish I could be there to help everyone out, and I hope this helps in some way. I'm praying for you all / sending good vibes and cash to you, but I hope this helps you out even more. Good luck, and if there is anything I can do, please don't hesitate to contact me.

u/FrontpageWatch · 1 pointr/longtail

>I have seen a few posts about people who don't have flood insurance, or any insurance on this subreddit (I hope its appropriate to post here) and I wanted to help you help yourself prepping to go back in to your home. I work remodeling homes, and commercial buildings and have a few tips for when you go back in your house to save a few thousand dollars.
>
>First thing is first, you need to expect total losses on a couple items; carpet and padding is gone, 100% don't bother keeping it. Drywall and plaster that have been submerged are also toast. Furniture may be salvageable, but if it has cloth or padding, assume its a loss. If it isn't REALLY expensive (custom, antique, or all sealed wood) its probably done for. These 3 things can cause health issues if not taken care of immediately. For your families sake, please don't hesitate to throw them away. Its all replaceable, your health is not.
>
>I'll preface this with the fact that I have never worked with FEMA, but only insurance companies. My knowledge and experience comes from working with them and if you have more information than I do, please add.
>
>
>
>
>
>How to prep your house:
>
>The VERY FIRST thing you do, is go to your main breaker panel, and make sure the electricity is shut off in the room you will be working. The odds of you getting shocked are negligable, but Murphy is always lurking. Once you have the breaker switched to the off position of that room you can begin the demo process.
>
>Unscrew the plates on the electrical outlets, and cable jacks. This will take a flat head screwdriver. Save these in a plastic ziplock bag to put back on later.
>
>If you have baseboard, and want to try to keep it (personally I'd just chuck it myself usually) you will need a razor knife. You will need one anyways so if you don't have one, purchase one. I'd recommend this one off amazon, but you can find simple razors for a couple bucks. The problem with cheeps, is they break easy, and you'll need the knife for your carpet too. Anyways, cut where the baseboard meets the wall, as there will be a paint layer and/or caulking there to seal it. Then use the flat head to pry the baseboard back. If you are trying to salvage the baseboard, be gentle and take your time. If you aren't trying to salvage it, bust it up and take out some anger on it.
>
>Next is your drywall. Here is a drywall saw I recommend. Go 6-8 inches above the waterline and punch it through the drywall (you can use your hand, but a hammer doesn't hurt as much) and cut it all. Rip out everything below your cut and throw it away. Then pull out any insulation in the walls, as they are soaked and compromised as well. This will help prevent mold growing in the walls.
>
>Leave any and all plumbing or electrical work exactly how it is.
>
>Next comes carpet. The carpet is only held on by tack strips (thin wooden pieces, with little nails in them) along the edges. Pull up the edges and the rest comes easy. Since the carpet is soaked, its going to be extremely heavy. This is why I would purchase the better razor knife, and cut the carpet in to pieces to haul it outside. By leaving the carpet until last, this will help your clean up from the dry wall, baseboard, and insulation immensely. The padding underneath will usually be stapled, or glued down, just rip it out.
>
>Turn the breakers back on, and put some fans in there if you have them. The more air movement the better. Obviously a lot of people won't be able to afford industrial style fans, but here is one for 40 bucks. If you can spare it, it will make a huge difference. The bigger the better, if you have the cash.
>
>I would leave cabinets where they are, and dry them out as quickly as possible. They will probably be replaced too, but once they are dry they pose no health risk, and you will probably still be using them to hold stuff until a contractor can replace them.
>
>These few things will save you thousand of dollars later on, and more importantly will keep your chances of being sick way down. In the insurance world(again I've never worked with FEMA), you get money for demolition, so you can pocket a good chunk of that, if not all of it depending on the contractors needs, and scope of work.
>
>I'd recommend getting a multi-tool as well, but they aren't necessary. They are just helpful. Here is what I use.
>
>I wish I could be there to help everyone out, and I hope this helps in some way. I'm praying for you all / sending good vibes and cash to you, but I hope this helps you out even more. Good luck, and if there is anything I can do, please don't hesitate to contact me.

u/seejaypee · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Headswaps are often one of the most straightforward conversions to learn (with a couple big caveats :) )

The most important thing is the amount of provisional fit. That is to say, you have to eyeball the head and the place you want the head to go, and get an idea if they:

  • are roughly the same size/scale
  • have roughly the same amount of neck
  • can be cut in roughly the same angle (or filed to match)

    Size/scale should be obvious.
    Amount of neck is helpful because a head sitting right on shoulders isn't going to look right. So, if one head has a bunch of neck exposed, and the other has a hood folded up around the neck, that could be the same amount of above-shoulder-below-head material.

    You could saw the hooded fellow off at the line of the hood (leaving the hood in place) and then saw the one one with a lot of neck at roughly the same angle from high at the back to a little lower at the front, to match the angle of the hood. (leads into #3!)

    If you can manage a similar angle of cut, great. If not, try to cut more neck, or supporting material off of the head, so that you can then file it to more closely match the angle you cut on the body it is supposed to attach to.

    Really, getting a clean cut is the hardest part. If you're using plastic, you have lots of wiggle room, as a good thick cyanoacrylate glue will let you chemically fuse the two pieces together. If one or both pieces are metal you have to be a bit more precise. Big gaps can be filled with a bit of smooshed up putty, but if you can get it close without putty, its best to do so (in general).

    n.b: If you get into conversions much over time, you will expand your capabilities if you can learn a little it of putty smooshing eventually, but I would say its best to learn to judge, plan, and execute as precise of cuts as possible early on. You'll thank yourself later.

    Once you've got a reasonably close match, you're in the home stretch. If plastic: melt that shit together with CA! Otherwise, learn to pin the pieces together for long term strength and viability of the figure.


    A good primer on general pinning ideas and techniques is available here if you're interested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhyQOUz-Dx4&t=1s

    If you're in the US, I recommend just buying cheap paperclips, or bulk brass rod from a hobby shop or somewhere like DickBlick etc. Having a small handful of good pinning material on hand (and a good pinvise with very fine drill bit) is worth its weight in gold over time if you want to learn to do tricky head/limb/weapon swaps.

    Happy to offer more advice if it would help. PM me, or hit up the 'HowTo' area of the RandomPlatypus forum, and leave a post about what you're looking to learn, and someone will totally offer some advice. :)

    Good luck!


    Oh! and if you're interested in trying things like headswaps and other conversions, in addition to a good pair of cutters that most people seem to instinctually have on hand, a razor saw will set you up for serious success.

    Pick one up if you can afford it, you won't regret it!

    https://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75300-Precision-Razor-Saw/dp/B00004Z2U4



u/conspiracy_theorem · 4 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

I would NOT buy that set if I were you. I am a professional woodworker (cabinet maker and custom design-build furniture)... You want tools that are well made and are going to last- Ryobi is well know as a throw-away maker.

You are going to have to spend more than a couple hundred bucks and you are going to get less tools... But less is more in this case, since you won't be buying all of these again WHEN they break.

Rather than the chopsaw you would do well to pick up a good Ryobi and Dozuki... https://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-770-3600-Razor-Ryoba-Blade/dp/B000CEF5HM , https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DSY7G6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480972626&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=dozuki&dpPl=1&dpID=31x%2BPWWVK4L&ref=plSrch

There are many options for both- bit basically, they are versatile, relatively inexpensive, and once you get the hang of it, they are easy and accurate as hell- you'll want a chopsaw, for sure, but can get by with these until you make some cash to reinvest... Plus you'll want a couple good handsaws anyway, no matter what... The rigid spine Dozuki is for dovetails and other joinery, while the floppy saw has rip teeth on one side and crosscut on the other for a wide variety of cuts. They have very thin kerfs, and pull stroke (eastern) saws are MUCH more ergonomic and easy to use (try pushing a string in a straight line and then try pulling it..)... And as a bonus, they are quiet and don't need electricity. :)

Do get yourself a nice drill/driver set... I would recommend deWalt, Makita, or Milwaukee for their ready availability and price/quality ratios. This set will probably cost as much as the whole set you were looking at... But it will be worth it because they will last you a very long time. Also, having a drill AND driver will save you a lot of time- you can pre-drill/countersink with the drill, and then drive fasteners with the drive and not was time looking for and changing tips constantly.

The only things in that kit that aren't covered are the reciprocating saw and the light. I'd recommend just picking up a decent head lamp, as trying to work by a hand held flashlight is pretty much impossible if you're already using your hands to work... As for the recip- I'd hit Craigslist or something and find a used one.. they are pretty simple machines and as long as the motor works and you've got a nice blade, it's all good...
You'll also really want a low angle block plane and a router... With only the tools mentioned above, along with a couple of shop made jigs and fixtures, there isn't really anything you can't build.... I'd recommend a router from porter-cable or nicer- Bosch is good... At 1 3/4 horsepower min... And for the block plane, it depends on what you're willing to spend, but Lie Nielson is my recommendation.... Wood River is also good. Stanley is okay, but you'll REALLY have to put in work on the cutter and the soul before you get any kind of good results... And the cutter steel is pretty cheap and thin.. anyway, good luck!

u/Ellistann · 5 pointsr/woodworking

This guys list is pretty much what I was going to say.

So for some recommendations:

I've restored an antique 1930s No 5. Bought it for 45, and it is best for those on a budget. Any pre WWII Stanley just needs some light restoration work and a reworking of the blade and it will do 20x better than a harbor freight plane and roughly same as modern Stanley sweethearts at 1/3 the cost. It may not be as good as woodriver or lie Nielsen, but it's a 1/4 or 1/6 the cost respectively.

Paul sellers recommends Aldi Chisels, I got Narex instead for an additional $20. I love them, and will only upgrade out of them once I get enough money to go for some veritas or lie Nielsen. I got a set of 4 with imperial measurements for $60ish. I'd put any extra money into sharpening systems than upgrading them.

I bought David Barron dovetail guides and the Japanese pull saws he reccomends. Gyokucho 372 Razor Saw Dotsuki Takebiki Saw. Look at Amazon for the narex chisels I reccomend and the 'people who bought this also bought' section and you'll find it easily. While there you can find some leather for stropping and the green compound you need with it. Also while looking at these, you'll see a reccomendations for the Stanley disposable knife and the replacement blades. This is what Paul sellers recommends, and it works well. Stays ridiculously sharp, and can be rehoned with little effort and the blade cheaply replaced once it becomes to much work top get the thing sharp. Cutting layout lines is much more precise and helps prevent tearout. I bought narex marking knife and love it. I don't mind trying to hone it every so often. Ditto the scratch awl.

Basically took around the Amazon other bought recommendations and you'll find a bunch of fairly cheap quality things to get you up and running.

u/Jumpin_Joeronimo · 2 pointsr/woodworking

There are going to be varied answers, and it really depends on what you want to do and how much you want to spend.

I am an amateur but I'll give you my two cents.

Personally, thinking of staying cheap, I would say larger hand saw to cut big pieces, smaller precision hand saw, CLAMPS, mid-sized hand plane, set of 3 chisels, and sander... keeping it super cheap... a sanding block instead of electric orbital sander. Maybe a miter box too.

The specifics and the whys:

$11 - Hand Saw to cut larger pieces you get. No need for a table saw right away.

$20 Precision saw - I like my double-sided japanese Ryoba. It was cheap, cuts really well and has both end grain and cross-grain teeth. I use this for cutting precision joints.

$30 Clamps - Always very useful. I bought THIS SET to start. Move up to Jorgensen or Bessie bar clamps when you have some dough. Bar clamps are superior in clamping pressure, but you can get most stuff done with the quick grips.

Plane - some people would disagree, but you can get a $15 or $20 Stanley number 4 which can act as your jointer to get a board flat and smoother. If you are just getting home depot wood then might not be useful yet.

Chisels - Basic cheap set from HD. Start slow. You can shave a little off to make your joints fit.

Sander - to keep it super cheap. Sandpaper and your hand. Then block sander.. then orbital sander if you want to spend some money.


I had less than this and it got me by on my few first projects. $80 bucks or so without a plane. Very basic. Other than that... you will need at least 2 sawhorses or a table. A table with a good vise or clamping surface makes your life way easier.

*edit for formatting

u/coletain · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Hard to say for sure without knowing his shop, so you'd probably want to try to scope out any recommendations for specific stuff to see if he already has something similar before you buy.

A good suggestion that I think always works well for any budget is to go to a local hardwood dealer and just pick out a selection of interesting exotic lumber, any woodworker will always appreciate getting cool woods to use in their projects.

If you want to have some ideas for stocking stuffers / tools though I'll list some cool things that I think are not super common that I enjoy owning or make my life easier.

Tiny-T Pocket rule

6" precision t rule

A really nice miter gauge

Router setup bars

A nice marking knife

Marking gauge

Magports

Tapeboss

Grr-ripper

Dozuki & Ryoba

Alexa (Alexa, what is 5 and 3/8 times 16... Alexa set reminder for 30 minutes to spray the second coat... Alexa order shop towels... etc, it's actually really useful, and it plays music too)

Shop apron

Quick sanding strips

Digital Angle Gauge

Digital Height Gauge

Anything from Woodpeckers is pretty much guaranteed to be great, albeit kinda pricey

u/basilis120 · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

So I see lots of good suggestions so far.
For knives I like my Carving Jack from Flex cut but if I had to do it again I would get the cheaper Whittlin Jack It has a good blade like the carving jack and I just don't use the other tools to justify the extra cost. I also like the Flex cut chisels.
Others have pointed out Mora knives for another good deal

For carving chisels and gouges I like my Ashley Iles not the cheapest but worth it.

for handsaws I like the Japanese style saws

They are hard to beat for the price and quality.


Keeping all of the tools sharp could be entire other thread.
The DMT Dia-sharp plates are great in the course to extra-fine grades. I have the extra-extra fine and would recommend something like a 6000 or 8000 grit Shapton stone instead.


u/joelav · 8 pointsr/woodworking

If you decide to go the hand tool route, money and space are a lot less of a concern. Rather than throw out hypotheticals, I'll give you some examples of tools you can actually buy right now:

Panel saw. Yeah, 10 bucks. It's actually a nice saw too. The only issue is the teeth cannot be sharpened - but it's 10 bucks. Use this for breaking down big stock into smaller stock

Back Saw. Also 10 bucks. Same as above. Disposable but cheap and will last a long time (it's disposable because the teeth have been hardened). This is for precision cross cuts and cutting tenons.

Dovetail/fine joinery saw. 25 bucks plus a 3 dollar xx slim double taper saw file to make it not suck.

Now for some planes. These may seem kind of pricey for "broke" status, but these aren't POS-get-you-by planes. These are lifetime tools. To get something comparable new, you are looking at 150.00 to 300.00 a piece. You can get better deals by bidding on some planes, but these are all "buy it now"

Stanley #4. Needs some love but that's a good user for 30 bucks.

Stanley #5 for 42$

Stanley #7. 90 bucks.

Pick up a 4 dollar card scraper too.

Chisels

Narex $36. Use one of these and a block of wood to make yourself a router plane also.

Combination square 10 bucks.

A cordless drill of some sort and some bits (assuming you have one already)

70 bucks in 2x12's so you can make a knock down Nicholson style workbench which doesn't need vises. When you are done working, break it down and put it in the closet.

35 bucks for a pair of holdfasts from Gramercy

30 bucks worth of F style clamps from harbor freight will get you started there.

14 bucks to get sharp (not at all ideal but completely workable on a budget)

So for 410.00 or the price of a decent sander and miter saw, you can make literally anything in a small space with a small amount of localized dust. The trade off of course it time and labor.

Down the road you are definitely want to get some better saws, maybe some specialty planes, different chisels, some better measuring/marking equipment. But this will more than get you started.

u/anotherisanother · 6 pointsr/woodworking

If you go hand tools, you can start with Rennaissance Woodworker’s minimum tool list. You can go with a lot of vintage tools to save money, but for fun I priced out all new tools of good quality. Many tools were recommended here. I've added a workbench and some reference books and videos too.

MINIMUM TOOL LIST

$169 Jack Plane Woodriver
$125 Hand Saw backless saw ~26″ in length
$28, $30, $35 - 1/4, 3/8, and 1″ chisels Ashley Isles MK2
$79 Back Saw Veritas Crosscut Carcasse
$12 Coping Saw Olson
$18 Marking Gauge Beech Marking Guage
$12 Square IRWIN Combination
$149 Some kind of sharpening set up (stones, sandpaper, whatever) Norton Waterstone Woodworker Package

$592 Subtotal

NICE TO HAVE

$13 Honing guide Eclipse style
$13 Marking knife Veritas
$22 Mallet Thor
$15 Book to learn from Essential Woodworker Book

$63 Subtotal

WORKBENCH

$27 Workbench plans Naked Woodworker
$123 Materials for Naked Woodworker, costs from Mike Siemsen
$35 Holdfasts Gramercy

$185 Subtotal

GRAND TOTAL

$840

u/awkward___silence · 1 pointr/woodworking

For cheap and no tools, I'd start by going to a craft store. Assuming your not in the us I don't know what the equivalent to a Michele's or hobby lobby or Jo-Anne is but hit something up. Find a piece that is not plywood and not balsa wood. You're looking at about 5 dollars. Make sure it is close to the thickness and width you want and longer than you want. Now go to a hardware store and pick up a 10 dollar hand saw. Just general use, nothing fancy. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-20-045-15-Inch-Fat-Hand/dp/B00005A1JN would work, about ten dollars.

Take a strait edge(square would be better) and a pencil and mark where you want to cut. Go to town with the saw but take your time. Now get a multi pack of sand paper with 60, 120 or 150, and 220 grit and a block for it about 10$. Start with 60 grit and focus on your edges and shape them with the paper. This is a pain, and not the best way to shape but for on the cheap it will work. Once you are finished shaping move to the 100 to 150 paper and smooth it all up, finish with the 220.

Now your ready to finish. This is where things will get pricey because it is hard to find small quantities. If you want darker edges the. Get 2 stains, a conditioner/wood sealer, and a clear coat. You can use an old T-shirt and rubber gloves, though a brush would be better. Apply your conditioner and let it dry. Read the can to do so. If you want the two tone coating practice on the left over scrap, but do the edges first and let it dry, the. Do the middle. Stain won't penetrate as well on the second coat. Then apply multiple light coats of your clear coat. The stains, clear cost and conditioner can run 15$ and more depending on looks and durability. Make sure though that all the finishing stuff is compatible as that can cause trouble. You may also want a brush and some 320 grit paper for finishing as you generally want to lightly sand between coats, you may also want to have multiple coats of stain before clear coating.


I assume that 150m was suppose to be 15 cm. the wood will likely not be overly hard, if you can find poplar it will do ok. An epoxy clear coat might help strengthen but I'm not sure. This is the most labor intensive, but also the cheapest method to make your basic bookmark.

u/mradtke66 · 6 pointsr/woodworking

$100 should be sufficient for your tools. With that, you should even be able to buy everything you need to dovetail them, should you feel so fancy.

I made this: http://i.imgur.com/KnxeU.jpg with 90% hand tools. I did use my table saw for ripping 1x12 pine into smaller chunks for the sides.

What I used (low-cost alternatives below)

9" Diston backsaw as my dovetail saw. $20 at a garage sale. Probably overpaid, but it was freshly sharpened, which saved me time.

1/4" and 1/2" chisel. I used my Lie-Nielsens (at $55 a pop new, this already blows your budget. Sorry!)

Table saw

Marking gauge

3 hand planes: Vintage Stanley 8 for flattening the pine, 4 for final smoothing, Woodriver block for knocking down the dovetails and chamfering the ends.

How to get that on a budget:

Dovetail Saw: buy a pull say from the local home improvement store. I recommend this one to start. http://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-213102-Extra-Fine-Pull/dp/B0001GLEYY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1314024215&sr=8-5

I generally don't prefer pull saws, but this is the bargain-basement way to cut your dovetails. $20.

Chisels: Narex. pretty cheap, but excellent. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=67707&cat=1,41504 I'd recommend the 1/4 and 3/8 to start. $21 for the pair.

For ripping and cross cutting your stock, consider this one: http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-213103-2-Inch-Double-Edge/dp/B0001GLEZ8 $21. You can do relatively accurate crosscuts by clamping a 2x4 to your workpiece and using it as a fence.

You don't /need/ planes to get you started. Sandpaper and a sanding block would be sufficient if you have a tight budget. You will, however, have to be much, much more careful of your stock selection. Much, much harder (impossible?) to correct any twists, bows, or other imperfections without hand planes.

A marking gauge. Your choice, any of these will work. http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-mortise-gauge-94645.html $10

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=59455&cat=1,42936 $30

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=50440&cat=1,42936 $25

Grand total is $72-$100 (not including shipping) depending on which marking gauge you buy.

Later, you'll probably get more saws and/or nicer saws. Let me know when you've got a bigger budget and we can talk.

(Also, you'll need a way to sharpen your chisels. I've excluded that for now. Let me know if you'll need that as well.)

u/tehifi · 2 pointsr/diynz

Supercheap for clamps.

Bunnings for chisels. They have a three-pack or Trojan branded chisels that are actually not bad and hold and edge well when sharpened correctly. I think my set was $25. The Trojan rubber mallet is less than $10, I think, and perfectly serviceable.

I can't find the exact set on the site at the moment, but probably these will be okay too.

For beginners saws, I'd recommend the mini Ryoba. Mine is still on it's original blade and has done heaps of work, but still like new.

For very fine work, you can't beat a cheap Dozuki saw.

Of course, using chisels fucking sucks if they aren't sharp. Like properly sharp, not just ground roughly on a bench grinder or whatever crap oil stone came with a set.

Fortunately, honing guides are cheap as, and super good for people starting out.

Unfortunately, cheaping out on sharpening stones will mean crappy results if you're doing joinery.

The best bang for buck I've found is this diamond plate. #300 side grit for re-adjusting bevels, #1000 side to start your polish and actual sharpening. Having the base holder thing with it is super-useful. Just don't use water on it, use glass cleaner.

With this plate you can get things pretty sharp, but for getting your polish and micro bevel game on for stupid sharp, these look pretty good for the money.

Personally I use a large #8000 King stone, then a leather strop with rubbing compound.

What have we missed?




u/bigb9919 · 1 pointr/BeginnerWoodWorking

Do you have pictures? You might be able to use a thin kerfed japanese pull saw like this: https://www.amazon.com/SUIZAN-Japanese-Dozuki-Dovetail-Woodworking/dp/B07314SWRF/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=pull+saw&qid=1563841644&s=gateway&sr=8-8

They also make a more versatile version with teeth on both sides, that would obviously also work, but the back on the one I linked encourages the cut to stay straight in at least one direction. The rest is up to you.

Practice as much as you need to till you feel comfortable. Watch a few videos on how to saw straight and you'd be surprised how easy it is.

Good luck!

u/ZedHunter666 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Stay away from pallets please, cough up some money and some time (if you go to a box store) getting some okay dimensional lumber for projects.

If you decide to go the hand tool route, I've got all sorts of info and what not, I'd share. (Im a historical furniture maker's apprentice, I like to think I've got some decent knowledge) I've included a list here if thats the route you go.

Used this list for a couple posts, its about $200ish in all to get you started. This list uses chisels in lieu of say a router plane for dados and doesn't have an option for grooves but that's later down the road. I've got a big enthusiast list as well if you'd be interested.

> Crosscut/Ripsaw: Irwin Double Sided Pullsaw https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Double-Edge-9-5-Inch-213103/dp/B0001GLEZ8
>
Joinery Saw - I think this is the one Japanese saw I own? works okay https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=pd_sbs_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001DSY7G6&pd_rd_r=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH&pd_rd_w=16INj&pd_rd_wg=gFI50&psc=1&refRID=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH
> Chisels https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302108&sr=1-1&keywords=narex+chisels
>
Marking Gauge https://www.amazon.com/Crown-135-Marking-Gauge-Beech/dp/B00EC9AOZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZBYMV8TF850C6M5JDGDG
> Bevel Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC2NYKS?psc=1
>
Mallet - I'd personally make one or buy a used one (of heavier wood, good grain and quality construction.) Amazon has some though. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-gram-Beech-Carving-Mallet/dp/B00L7BQL54/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302341&sr=1-11&keywords=mallet
> Combination square -does the work of several sizes of squares for the price of one - https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302407&sr=1-2&keywords=square
>
A No 4 or 5 sized plane - I buy old Stanley's/Bailey's because they're great, and usually cheap for bench planes - Flea Market/Antique stores/ebay -$20 ish --- Amazon also sells new (I give no guarantee on quality however) - https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-404-Adjustable-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302507&sr=1-1&keywords=stanley+plane
> "Workbench" - temporary thing to hold pieces while you make dovetails - https://www.amazon.com/WM125-Workmate-350-Pound-Capacity-Portable/dp/B000077CQ0/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CA9X21QD5D7QAXKMGE6S
>
Woodscrew clamp, used to clamp peice to workbench while chiseling waste - https://www.amazon.com/ATE-Pro-USA-30143-Handscrew/dp/B0006A4A5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499303583&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+screw+clamp
>
> Other than clamps, glue, mortice gauge, etc, this is good enough to get you started making carcass (dovetailed) pieces of furniture, like a shoe cubby or bookshelf.
>
> Thats around $200 for getting you started. Add a mortise chisel and mortise gauge and you can start mortise and tenon work. Invest in pipe clamps when you reach a glue up point.

u/Hapuman · 3 pointsr/Carpentry

If the idea is to learn to use hand tools, then the basics are chisels, saws, and planes.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=67707&cat=1,41504
Those are a good set of chisels at a reasonable price. I'd recommend the set of 4 (1/4" - 1").

http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1413255552&sr=1-2&keywords=ryoba+saw
Next I'd get a ryoba saw. One side has teeth for ripping, and one for crosscutting, so you get some versatility out of one tool. You could also look into dovetail saws.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=low+angle+block+plane&rh=n%3A228013%2Ck%3Alow+angle+block+plane
Planes come in massive variety. I'd start with a low angle block plane. The more expensive planes come ready to use right out of the box. The cheaper ones can take a bit of work to turn into a good tool. I have one of those cheaper stanleys, and I had to spend about 4 hours sanding the bottom to get it flat.

For a plane specifically for joinery, I'd also look at a rabbet plane.

Hope all that helps. If hand tools aren't really her thing, then you're looking at something more like table saws and routers. Good luck.

u/chicken_herder · 1 pointr/Tools

Definitely get yorself out of the "cordless system" mindset entirely if you want to really get into decent woodworking. Cordless is really awesome for building a house or drilling in the attic, but you're overpaying for a benefit that you aren't utilizing. Cordless circular saw can make sense, but not a miter saw and certainly not a table saw unless you are a contractor or farmer (or have goofy power requirements, but I still maintain it's an exception requirement and not something any normal user needs).

A really really exceptional hand saw for woodworking is this guy -
https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2MWJCIOPZF45&keywords=gyokucho+ryoba&qid=1566045150&s=hi&sprefix=gyokucho%2Ctools%2C208&sr=1-3


For reference, I do hobby woodworking and house upgrade projects. I have one power saw, a makita track saw, and an unreasonable array of hand saws (I think I have 11 or 12 different hand saws at the moment). Rarely do I want or need something more, a table saw at some point but only for repeatable cuts when I'm doing something with multiple specific rips.

u/Trisa133 · 6 pointsr/DIY
  1. Buy a good stud finder, it can detect other stuff as well, and check for clearance. This is the best and easiest to use stud finder I have ever used. Here

  2. If you have the proper clearance, then cut the wall with a drywall hand saw.

  3. Use some 2x4 or whatever cheap wood you have available to nail the support beam. You can easily shoot a nail at an angle to connect it between 2 studs. Do the bottom support and top as well.

  4. Install the cabinet and secure it with screws. You really only need 4 screws. 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Or if you're flush the the studs on the side, you can screw it to the side. That's the easiest route.

  5. Now finish it with drywall joint compound to fill the gaps. Then caulk the gaps. Paint.

    Now if you don't have the clearance. Your only way to do it is is to build a frame around it so you hide the unfinished part. But personally, I'd just get another one that's in in-wall.
u/carvaccount · 1 pointr/wildwhittlers

That's a pretty common size, in my opinion. When you're carving in the round, most people trace the design onto the wood with pencil (there's some techniques for this as well, like using center lines to maintain good proportions) and then cut the blank to roughly match the design with a bandsaw or coping saw if you are doing it by hand.

Personally, I go with the coping saw and as I make the cuts, I tape the sawed-off pieces back together with masking tape and retrace the pencil lines so I can more easily conceptualize the proper cuts on a 3d object. The coping saw can be rather tiresome work though.

Another good method is to use stop cuts to precisely take away large amounts, but instead of using a knife to make the stop cut, use a little saw. This small Xacto saw is amazing for that purpose.. I've tried a number of small, hand-held saws and this one has very fine teeth and minimal kerf so it works well in basswood. Just cut in with the saw, then use the knife to gradually slice down the unwanted material to the stop cut.

My first project was also an egg and I have to say it is a very boring project, although it was useful to figure out how the grain affected various cuts. Choose a more interesting one next time from the start and it will be far more enjoyable. I'd recommend trying a wood spirit (like an old man face). There's plenty of tutorials and examples on youtube/google. Picking up a coping saw or the Xacto to rough out what you want to carve will get some parts started even quicker.

This was about halfway through my second carving attempt ever, doing a wood spirit. You can see how you use the corner of the blank for the bridge of the nose and round off the head around the other three corners. Way more fun.

u/caddis789 · 1 pointr/DIY

Doing drywall doesn't take a lot of specialized equipment. There are tons of videos on youtube. I don't have one that's better than another, maybe someone else will chime in as well. A couple of ladders, a couple of screwguns, a utility knife to cut it. You can get a drywall square, but a straight board will work as well. You'll want a couple of blades- a 6" and a 10-12" should be fine. You can get drywall mud online, but the shipping is crazy. You'll need drywall tape. A jab saw will help to cut out for electrical boxes, etc. Screws would probably be ebtter purchased there also. You'll also want corner bead. A cornering tool is also helpful. You can buy more specialized equipment, but this should cover the essentials, except for the drywall itself. Best wishes to you, stay safe.

u/AnthAmbassador · 1 pointr/DIY

Well check out this Irwin version on Amazon, it's under 20 bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Double-Edge-9-5-Inch-213103/dp/B0001GLEZ8/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1464021599&sr=8-14&keywords=japanese+pull+saw

That will be way way better for getting precise cuts, and it'll cut surprisingly quickly, you won't spend all that much more time than you would with the jig saw.

I'd suggest a chisel as well. It doesn't have to be a great one, but the easiest way to finish the dovetail or half lap joint like the ones you made for the spice rack is to chisel out the piece once the first two saw cuts have been made.

Scary sharp method is just using sand paper for the sharpening grit. You can get a lot of sand paper really cheap, that will get you a lot of sharpening, like an enormous amount of sharpening done.

Eventually, having diamond grit stones will be cheaper over time, and get sharpening done faster and nicer, but you should start with having the ability to get your tools really sharp, and upgrade stones when you feel like the process matters enough (that won't likely be for a long time).

u/Thirdrawn · 0 pointsr/woodworking

The Samurai Carpenter has an explanation of these saws that I've found helpful. He also uses them frequently in his YouTube videos so there is a ton of inspiration.

https://youtu.be/Ct4S6DGqGkY

I recently saw a video from Jonathan Katz-Moses with some helpful tips.

https://youtu.be/9eLdh5IAhXA

Here's the saw I bought. It does rip cuts and cross cuts and has a replaceable blade. It's also a manageable enough size that I can easily control it. I bought a (more expensive) saw for a friend of mine who admired my saw and enjoyed using it and his saw has a longer handle with a more traditional wrapped handle. I prefer my smaller saw. I think my friend's saw is basically wall art at this point.

Gyokucho Razorsaw Ryoba Saw 180mm No. 291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CEF5HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FDN3DbTRXDKPW

These are great saws. I just got a lot of practice with mine building a new workbench. They take some practice so get one and just start cutting stuff. They cut remarkably fast and easy.

u/rhett121 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

If all you've got is $200 and NO tools, I'd say buy a nice cordless drill. It will give you the most bang for your buck starting out, then you can pick up tools as you need them. Even buying an inexpensive hand saw from the hardware store combined with a cordless drill will help you build a workbench.

Cordless Drill

Same Drill, bigger batteries

Handsaw

Save the rest for drill bits, bit drivers and countersinks. I've found the Home Depot Ridgid drill bits to be some of the best. Fuller makes the best countersinks.

u/srt19170 · 2 pointsr/handtools

A saw recommendation depends a lot upon what you intend to use it for. I wouldn't recommend spending a lot of money on a saw until you understand that and have some experience using hand saws for those cuts.

I own many saws, but I bought a cheap Pony saw for utility use and it works pretty well on cross-cuts and passably well on rip cuts. It has induction-hardened teeth so you cannot sharpen it, but it will last quite a while and is a reasonable starter saw for general rough cuts.

Japanese hand saws are also very reasonably priced, and will cut dovetails and joints as well as a very expensive Western saw. To my mind, it's certainly worth buying a standard double-sided Japanese saw and trying it out to see if it satisfies your needs.

u/CaIzone · 1 pointr/woodworking

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

u/jeffesonm · 2 pointsr/DIY

115 lbs is not very much, schedule 40 PVC would definitely handle that much weight, especially in such short lengths. 1" weighs .3 lbs/ft so you can add up the length and then add some % for fittings, maybe 50%? the first design has caster wheels on the one end which seems like a good idea, that way you can just roll the whole thing instead of having to pick it up.

home depot might cut the pipe for you, but you can invest $20 in a handsaw that will do a nice job cutting as well. if you are a perfectionist you can spend another $10 on a miter box to make perfectly straight cuts.

u/GIVES_SOLID_ADVICE · 1 pointr/woodworking

good advice in this thread, but I can't believe no one mentioned the mack daddy.

I'm sure you've seen it on youtube, so its well liked. The replacement blades aren't very expensive so no need to send it around the world to get sharpened. It really is a great saw. I learned on sharp western Disston saws, but the Japanese pull saw came as second nature once I let the saw do the work.

Thats a good all around saw, but you might prefer the Dozuki (in related items) for dovetails and spline cuts.

u/JVonDron · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Ok, $100 isn't going to go very far, especially if you need everything, but here we go.

Whetstone - This is slightly better than the hardware store combination stones, but it's cheap, it's a water stone, and it's got a good grit combo.

Handsaw - Japanese style, cuts on a pull stroke, crosscut and rip teeth. I have this exact saw, still works pretty damn good after a dozen years of occasional use.

Beater chisels - Not the best steel, but a chisel is better than no chisel. You'll want at least 2 sets of chisels anyway - don't beat the hell out of your good set.

Block plane - Don't expect super high quality from Stanley anymore, but we've all got at least one of these little block planes somewhere.

And I'm $6 above the gift card budget. The chisels and plane will need some sharpening before use, but it's enough to get you started. You still need marking/measuring tools, a square, a work surface, clamps, vise, and obviously, some wood to sink your teeth into.

u/andyhite · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I'm wrapping up my first dovetail box project (which I'll probably post here soon), and after weeks of watching videos, this one from Jay Bates was the best in my opinion.

The Paul Sellers video is also fantastic, but it's nice seeing a mere mortal like Jay Bates explain his thought process - and that's why I like the Jay Bates video.

Now, two important things: buy a good crosscut saw (something like this, even if you think "oh, there's no reason to buy a nice saw if I don't know how to use it". It's $20, not expensive. You will get frustrated with the crappy saw because it's going to come out looking bad no matter how good you are with it. Second, buy a magnetic guide. It makes keeping your lines nice and straight much easier.

u/jscythe · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Wood is good. I'd like to see more tech project in general that incorporate wood. 3D printers are popular, but they're about as common as a mill press and pricey in regards to what they actually do. Wood, on the other hand is very accessible and can be worked on with tools as simple as brace drills, coping saws and screwdrivers. And even if you can't afford a laser cutter, you can pick up a used scroll saw for as little as $50.

So yeah, more wood projects would be really nice.

u/michrech · 3 pointsr/DIY

Looked through the replies and was surprised to see a mitre box and saw wasn't suggested. The one I linked is one of the cheapest on Amazon. There are more expensive / nicer ones, of course -- just depends on what you wish to spend. Much better, faster, and easier than using hand planers, drills and hatchets, routers, etc...

u/Picarro · 2 pointsr/woodworking

YouTube is good for tutorials. For dovetails, and mortise-tenon joints, you would need a good set of chisels. I these from Bahco, and I like them. you will also need a 3000/8000 grit sharpening stone, and a sharpening guide for the chisels.

Other than that, a nice tenon saw, like this and a regular crosscut saw like this.

A wooden mallet would be good for the chisels too.

Do you have any tools already? I made a reply a few weeks ago with basic woodworking tools and you can probably find it in my comment history.

Bahco is nice and quality, Stanley, not so much, but saws get more beat up than chisels, and they are much harder to sharpen, so on a hobby level, buying cheap, and replacing frequently, can often be a good choice.

u/bonestamp · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Assuming it's mounted to an inside wall, it's probably not insulated, meaning it's extremely easy to feed the wires inside the wall.

Using a keyhole saw, cut a small hole behind the monitor. I suggest using a stud finder with A/C detection to make sure you're not cutting into a stud or wires. Then cut another hole somewhere directly below that hole and just run the wires in one and out the other. It's super easy. You can get nice bezels to make the holes look pretty too:

keyhole saw

stud finder

bezel

u/Ripudio · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Definitely buy tools based on the project(s) you have to do, but I think a good start would include:

Hand planer (Vintage Stanley Bailey is ideal)

A few chisels (Narex are a good option if you're on a budget)

Combination Square

Marking Knife (Stanley makes one that Paul Sellers recommends: Amazon)

Marking/Mortising Gauge(s): I think Crown is the only company making reliable ones with pins vs. the more common cutting disc.

Saw: I got this to start, its sharp as all heck, and has a crosscut and rip edge Japanese Ryoba

u/ErzaKnightwalk · 1 pointr/handtools

Idk, I wouldn't say that. I still think you can get a good deal, if you look around.

The chisels I bought off of Harbor Freight actually seem pretty good after I spent an entire afternoon tuning and sharpening them. They were complete shit out of the box though. Forget a flat back, the edge wasn't even square.

These vintage planes were relatively cheap too.

I am also considering buying this saw, as I heard it was quite good after you tune it up.

Also, I sent that piece of junk gauge back, so I didn't really lose anything.


------------------------------------

I was looking at the crowns on amazon.

What do you think about this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Silverline-868503-Mortice-Gauge-230mm/dp/B000LFTQ72/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1485138295&sr=8-9&keywords=Marking+gauge

EDIT : Nvm, according to UK reviews, it's crap. Ohh wow, the UK has way better choices than we do in the states...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-868503-Mortice-Gauge-230/dp/B000LFTQ72/ref=sr_1_4?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1485139275&sr=1-4&keywords=Mortice+gauge

u/Moviebuff1 · 1 pointr/woodworking

SUIZAN Japanese Pull Saw Hand Saw 9-1/2" Ryoba ( Double Edge ) for Woodworking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9XB1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NN.ZAbV1EP155

This is the saw I got, and I love it 😊

u/Vlad_the_Homeowner · 3 pointsr/homeowners

> Pretty much a one time use

Take it back if you haven't used it yet. Get a chainsaw, or sawzall, or handsaw, or just use a hacksaw if you have nothing else. Any saw is going to be less work and have a cleaner cut, and be more useful for other things.

  • Chainsaw - only worth it if you have outdoor space with trees and whatnot that will likely need trimming/chopping in the future. But if you do, it's nice to own a little chainsaw.
  • Sawzall - pretty damn handy to have if you're a DIY type. Can't say I've ever cut something as big as a railroad tie with a Sawzall, but it should get by with a long blade. What it lacks in performance on this job would be made up by the usefulness of owning a sawzall.
  • Wood handsaw - cheap enough I'd argue it's worth owning one anyway. Not one of the giant ones, but a 15" or so. Here's one for $10 on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-20-526-15-Inch-12-Point-SharpTooth/dp/B0007XJO48/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525109398&sr=8-3&keywords=wood+hand+saw)
  • Hacksaw - honestly it'll probably cost you as much to get a decent blade (assuming you already have a hacksaw) that could cut that wood as it would to just get the hand saw above. And it's not going to cut as easy. Scratch that, hacksaw is a bad choice.
u/thatdudebutch · 27 pointsr/battlestations

If you are looking to do this yourself you need a combination of the following:

u/Bushman37 · 6 pointsr/woodworking

A truly square, combination square. Don't cheap out, you will regret it like I did, and end up buying a better one (or trying to fix it). I use it more than any other tool. Remember, if you buy quality, you only cry once. Other layout tools I can personally recommend include Incra T-rule, ruler and protractor. If you use an incra, you will also use a .05mm lead mechanical pencil for marking. You also might need a tape measure. Don't do what I did and buy a 26' (unless you need it), because I rarely go over 12'. And consider the bend of the tape, it is really annoying. Also a framing square or T square. And a proper level if you don't have one. Now onto saws. The only saw I can truly recommend right now is this. The reviews don't lie, let me tell you. I have rip cut & crosscut with zero problems. I also own a lie-nielsen dovetail saw, but I haven't tested it yet, so i can't recommend it yet. I don't own any hand planes yet so I can't say much but from what I've seen Stanley has good vintage and Lie-Nielsen has good modern (new). If they are too expensive, look into a cabinet scraper and steel burnisher. On the topic of chisels, I can't say much either. I have a 1/2" and 3/4" stanley sweetheart 750 but they need to have the lacquer coat removed and be sharpened before I'll use em. (and i have no sharpening stones yet, I'll use the "scary sharp" method)

i'm here if you have any more questions, cheers

u/mounttod · 1 pointr/woodworking

Do you know if he typically buys higher end tools or mid range? I ask because he probably already has something similar but a Starrett Square would be an awesome gift. I don't own one but would be trilled if someone randomly gave me one.

You could go with either the 13A Double Square or the 6" combination square. Both are around $70 and he would probably use it every project.

I'll also never go without one of these saw in my shop. Ryoba Japanese pull saw

Does he use hand planes? Kinda expensive but this plane is seeing lots of use in my shop now: Rabbet Block Plane

u/hacksoncode · 3 pointsr/SanJose

There might possibly be somewhere that would do that for a fee... but that fee would almost certainly be higher than the cost of a cheap Circular Saw, like this. Probably half your neighbors have one, too, for that matter.

Or if that's too rich, and you're feeling anti-social, drill a hole in it and use a jab saw... though that will take a while. Sigh... no drill? Yeah, just get the circular saw.

u/palepinkpith · 2 pointsr/labrats

I'm actually trying to figure out the same thing right now for frozen blood samples.

I've been (minimally) successful with a biopsy punch. If you can find one large enough, you might be able to extract ~25mg consistently. Especially if you warm the end slightly.

The next thing I want to try is a small serrated saw, which should be cleaner than chopping. I used to have one from xacto, but i'm sure there is an equivalent surgical tool example

Please let me know i you find a solution!

u/RamblingMutt · 3 pointsr/DIY

I bought my parents the 12v Hitachi Impact and Drill set when it was on sale, and I have to say for just having and doing a few projects with, they are amazing. I built a shed with them: http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-KC10DFL-12-Volt-3-Tool-Carrying/dp/B001N2NTDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409179683&sr=8-1&keywords=Hitachi+12v

Everything else can be found used for way cheaper. Craigslist, Pawn Shops, even, and I suggest looking, Antique Shops (Most woodworking tools haven't changed in the last century)

Get 3 Hammers. A Framing, a Finnish, and a soft mallet, rubber or plastic.

A combo square

A framing square

Good tape measure

Get a decent handsaw, and a good "japan" saw (http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1409179974&sr=8-9&keywords=hand+saw)


For Furniture, get a tablesaw. You won't regret it. Get one from Craigslist, an older Delta, iron Craftsman or Grizzly.

Get a set of Chisels. Buck Brothers yellow at Home Depot will run you about 30$ for 3 and they are not bad at all.



And finally, get a Porter Cable D Handle router with an assortment of cheap bits.

With that you can do just about anything you could ever want.

u/Proteus617 · 3 pointsr/Woodcarving

If by "normal handsaw" you mean a Japanese style ryoba, then yes. The [Irwin pull saw] ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001GLEZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CWOHyb4TKAZSZ) is pretty good for a cheap saw. It's an easy style of saw for a beginner to use. A cheap adjustable square would be nice to mark your lines and maybe a clamp to hold a stop. Watch a quick video on using a ryoba.

u/wartburg_limo · 2 pointsr/woodworking

It's for... uh, malletting things?

I'll be honest, it's really not. I ended up with something I find too pretty to use, so it's very much a garage queen.

The mallet head is a sandwich of birdseye maple and walnut (each layer about 8x3.25x0.75 inches not counting the taper), the handle is walnut (8.5" long), and the decorative ring is brass. If the design looks familiar, it's because I basically copied Third Coast Craftsman's method.

Most of the shaping (both head and handle) was done using a Shinto rasp which I recommend it to anyone who'll listen. I don't know if there are many better tools you can get for about $15.

u/47Delta1460 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

This saw is probably the tool I use most. It's not for fine joinery, but I do a lot of breaking down boards, notches, etc with it. And it's great for PVC pipe too. It's an inexpensive way to "get familiar" with japanese saws.

My favorite tool is my Grizzly G0555 bandsaw. Had that before my table saw and have built many rocking horses with it.

u/Caleo · 13 pointsr/woodworking

This can be accomplished with nothing more than the following (no affiliate links):

  • Japanese style saw ~$30
  • El-cheapo Kanna Block Plane ~$14
  • A few chisels, honed razor sharp ~$30-60 (I bought the Irwin Marples set with the bevel guide... VITAL in helping you establish a razor edge!)
  • Sandpaper
  • Finish. I used Watco Natural Danish Oil ~$9
  • Not absolutely necessary, but helpful: Drill/Drill bits

    And the wood.. well, while purchasing some $2/board foot maple from a local miller (found on craigslist), I simply asked if he had some walnut scraps for wedges/inlays, he threw a bunch in (probably 10 board feet worth).
u/Andy_Sensei · 1 pointr/woodworking

This little guy is pretty useful for hogging off material. Mine has a coarse side and medium side. This one looks like the same thing. Good price, too.

http://www.amazon.com/Shinto-9-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0

u/ccrobinsusc · 1 pointr/woodworking

You can definitely wood work in an apartment! I live in a high rise and it's my favorite hobby - you just have to adapt, and scale down what you make. I make a lot of boxes and other small pieces (stand for my iMac, shaver holder, drawer organizers, cactus planters, etc...)

My "workbench" is a small side table that I set up my miter box on top of. The miter box is screwed to a 14 inch 1x6 inch board, which I clamp to the table. I try to buy pieces of wood that are already the width I want, because ripping by hand is extremely difficult. I also try to work with pieces less than 1/2 inch thickness. I use a Japanese back-saw that has one side for cross-cutting and one side for ripping. It cuts through walnut like butter!

I also have a mini router table that I built with a kit for my Bosch Colt trim router, and a random-orbit sander. My regular vacuum is my dust collection.

Apartment woodworking is awesome because it forces you to focus on detailed, small projects, and adapt to the challenges of a limited indoor space. My friends ask my how I get my mitered corners so perfect...it's because I practice over and over and over again, and try different techniques (by the way even if you own a table saw, you should be cutting box miters with a chamfer router bit).

The first boxes I made sucked, but now I'm getting to the point where I'm actually excited to share my projects. If you manage your expectations and stick with it, apartment woodworking is a really fulfilling hobby.

u/HippiesAllAround · 5 pointsr/DIY

Or even a drywall saw. I've got this Stanley Fat Max that I bought for actual drywall but I've recently been using it a fair amount as a general purpose saw when I want to shove something in a small space. World's best pumpkin carving knife/saw, too.

u/justmerriwether · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I really like the sound of Japanese saws over Western, but am wary of chintzy knockoffs. Someone recommended this brand of saws, sold via Amazon, that are made in Japan:

SUIZAN Ryoba

SUIZAN Dozuki

Do you have experience with this brand at all? Were I to swap out the Japan Woodworker saws for these to save some money, do you think I'd be alright or do the Amazon ones look unusable?


And as for planes, do you think I could get by with two? And if so, which two would that be? Block and Jack or Smoothing and Jack?

u/Kulden · 1 pointr/Bowyer

Thanks so much!

I do have a few questions, though. I was doing some reading on the sub before making my post, and I had seen some people recommending the Shinto Saw Rasp over the Stanley Surform Rasp (I assume that links to the correct one?). What's your opinion on the matter? I know nothing about rasps (Which I hope to correct) so I'm not sure what makes one rasp better than another.

Also, how does one determine what the draw weight of a bow that they've made is? Is there a way to alter it if it turns out it's too heavy? Again, I haven't read the books in full yet, but I just wanted to get that question out of the way while I was still thinking of it.

Are there any kinds of finishes that are more conducive to making a good seal on a bow that won't potentially affect it? (assuming that adding a stain or finish can affect the performance of a bow)

u/Rockerpult_v2 · 4 pointsr/Tools

I've never had luck with making accurate cuts using an oscillating tool.

Have you considering a saw?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CEF5HM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a very good pull-saw, and at a good price point, too.


EDIT: An oscillating tool is still useful to have though, the harbor freight variable speed item goes on sale for $25 pretty frequently.

u/_donotforget_ · 2 pointsr/woodworkingtools

A disposable blade ryoba (double sided saw) can be had at almost any tool store, like Woodcraft, Lee Valley if you're Canadian or close to it, or even Home Depot. Amazon also carries good brands, and Woodcraft along with Japan Woodworker (a tool importer bought out by Woodcraft) have online stores.

Gyokucho is my favorite brand. More important than the brand is what you will be cutting; Japanese saws have progressive tpi: smaller and more numerous teeth at the base of the saw, where you start your cut, generally getting large near the end, especially on rip profiles. Even with that, they still have different sizes for different uses. 180mm, 240mm, 300mm are the most common sizes for ryobas. 150mm for thin stock and precise work, 300mm for breaking down rough stock or thick stock joinery like in timber framing, 240 as a general, jack-of-all-trades.

Secondly, as Americans have fallen in love with Japanese blades, Japanese manufacturers took notice and now produce saws with tooth profiles suited for American hardwoods- although even American softwoods are still sometimes harder and more prone to breaking teeth of Japanese softwood saws than Japanese softwoods.

If you do cut American hardwoods often, here is a general purpose ryoba: https://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-Double-Ryoba-RazorSaw-Hardwoods/dp/B001Y4ZUJW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=hardwood+ryoba&qid=1564430848&s=gateway&sr=8-2

It's a disposable blade, once you dull it you can replace it. Even so, I usually use a joint powertool-handtool process, and have that exact hardwood saw for three years now and it's still just as sharp.

u/jontomas · 1 pointr/woodworking

Are you meaning brand? or type?

I orginally started with the dozuki and ryoba from this store at amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-770-3600-Razor-Ryoba-Blade/dp/B000CEF5HM/ref=sr_1_1

For $20 each, they were fantastic - highly recommend trying one if you want an inexpensive trial with japanese saws.


After that, I moved on to toolsfromjapan.com - they've got a slightly better/more expensive range of saws - but you can still get a very good Gyokucho brand saw there for a very reasonable price. (About $40-50 each)

u/we_can_build_it · 1 pointr/woodworking

I would look at something like this. They get great reviews for the price and yes to ensure square cuts I would use a shooting board to get it dialed in after cross cutting.

u/jfm2143 · 3 pointsr/DIY

It looks like a ryoba pull saw. I like the Gyuokucho Noko Giri, link below. These are great saws. I own this one and the Dozuki.

https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497625925&sr=8-1&keywords=gyokucho+ryoba

u/superlife · 1 pointr/woodworking

Ideally you would use a hacksaw, keep an eye out at garage sales or flea markets where you can get one for only a buck or two.

In the meantime you can use a hacksaw blade with a rag wrapped around a third of it to act as a handle, or a mini hacksaw like this from the dollar store, they are ok for small work like yours.

u/Fruhmann · 1 pointr/DIY

Definitely on a budget and i do want to up my hand tool game. would be nice to get a power saw. i did see this one that comes with the stanley saw. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-20-600-Clamping-Mitre-Box/dp/B00002X232/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

u/72skylark · 2 pointsr/DIY

I bought this box for $17 and I'm pretty happy with it. I was able to make a decent wooden box out of semi-warped walnut- first try with mitred joints. I have a handsaw similar to the one you have as well as a japanese-style shark saw which I used for the walnut pieces as the smaller teeth provide a better edge. The only issue with the shark saw is that it's not very rigid so I had to kind of guide it with my knuckles so that it would stay in the mitre guides.

The advantage of that mitre box is that those plastic pegs work really well for quickly clamping and unclamping your piece, you just have to take care that you don't move the piece when you are rotating the peg to tighten it (easy to do) and make sure it's really tight. The vibration and movement of the saw will make it come loose unless it's really tight.

As far as the circular saw, you are very limited in what kind of mitering you can do just by changing the angle of the blade. It's hard to explain, but if you envision different kinds of cuts you might want to do and how you would do it just by angling the circular saw blade, you can start to see how limited it is.

tl;dr: for $17 I would say it's a good investment even if you only use it a few times a year.

Edit: sorry, I missed the part where you mentioned the workbench. I agree with jdepcad, you don't need it for that project.

u/abnormal_human · 1 pointr/woodworking

This is the best bang/buck out there for shaping tools.

Start with a piece of wood. Saw it close to the shape you want, then go to town with that thing. When you're done, finish up with a lot of sandpaper in hand. Don't skip grits or you'll be chasing your tail.

u/webdes03 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If all you’re doing is putting in a pass through for cables to exit the wall then you’d be better off using a grommeted and brushed pass through plate than just drilling a hole. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07712TG67/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ghPdBbACZAGD2

All you’d need to install it is a simple drywall saw: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QVQH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JjPdBb2VZ0T7G

Edit: also note that permanent install of extension cords could be a code violation depending on where you live. The post isn’t super clear what you’re running and to where.

u/stalemunchies · 2 pointsr/woodworking

So there are two types of japanese pull saws. The dozuki, like you linked, is for finer items such as dovetails and such. The second type is the ryoba. These are 2 sided saws, one is filed for rip and one for crosscut which comes in handy. This is the type that you would more likely need if you aren't strictly just trying to cut dovetails/jointery. You could definitely use it to section up a piece of ply, however I will warn you that any hand saw is going to take you a long while section up sheet goods of any kind, especially something like ply with its interchanging grains.

u/Jessie_James · 2 pointsr/DIY

Ok, I did this before, let me tell you what we learned.

CAUTIONARY STORY:

  • In our case, the mirror was about 8' wide and 4' tall.

  • Surprise! The mirror was NOT attached to the wall with ANYTHING other than the visible fasteners.

  • When we removed the fasteners, we foolishly thought it was going to stay attached to the wall. It did NOT. In fact, after about 20 seconds, it suddenly started to fall forward off of the wall. My mother happened to be standing right there, facing away, and did not see this happening. I was also standing right there and managed to stop the mirror right before it hit her head, and it had fallen almost 75 degrees. I thought it broke my wrists because it hit me so hard. I almost fell down from the force.

  • The mirror did not break (incredibly, considering how much stress I must have put on the middle). I also discovered it weighed a lot more than I thought. I could not hold the weight of the mirror by myself (and I'm not a little guy - 6' 4" and 200 lbs) and was starting to lose it. My father stepped in and helped hold it.

  • It was so heavy and large we could not lift it back up, and could not lower it down with just the two of us. My mother literally ran to the next door neighbors and got two guys to help us.

  • We finally managed to lower it safely. But ... holy shit. That could have killed someone.

    MY SUGGESTIONS

    Hire someone! Seriously! Pay them $100 or so and be done with it. It's not even worth the time and effort you will go through.

    Okay, you want to DIY? Here's what I would do:

  • Buy two pieces of 1/2" plywood, cut 5' x 4' (so they fit in the middle) and use them to help reinforce and safely handle the mirror. Tape or glue them to the mirror. This will minimize the chance of breaking.

  • This saw may allow you to remove it - it's designed to remove countertops

  • Do not let it break. That will be a disaster. It's either going to be a 10 minute job or an 8 hour cleanup. Worse, it may break and slice someone and put you in the hospital. Now you have a hazmat cleanup too!

  • Expect the mirror to suddenly fall off the wall when you are working on it!

  • Expect it to weigh a LOT more than you thought - easily 200 pounds in my opinion.

  • A mirror that large? You will be glad you have 6-8 people helping.

  • Buy 4 of these - $6 each. They are cheap and tremendously helpful.

  • You should have some sort of ladders setup on each side that will safely allow someone to walk the mirror down on each side.

  • Put down a thick, non-slippery, non-TRIP covering/tarp just in case, and get rid of anything nearby.

    Good luck.
u/bleedscarlet · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Here's a few really good gifts that I got recently:

Highly recommended:

u/vff · 1 pointr/lockpicking

Indeed! Those are great ideas!

I just found this saw which is 40 teeth per inch with a kerf thickness of .0165", and says it works with metal. That seems promising, and relatively inexpensive.

I'm trying to not buy too many tools since I'm away from my workshop until late summer, and right now I'm basically working out of the equivalent of a hotel room.

u/C01n_sh1LL · 2 pointsr/watercooling

This is all good advice, OP. Small fine hacksaw, chamfer tool, 300 or 400 grit sandpaper, and masking tape will get the job done.

This is the saw I use. Anything similar should work fine. A mini hacksaw will be easier to work with than a full-size hacksaw.

u/grays55 · 1 pointr/DIY

I don't like the Stanley because you can't buy replacement blades. The only way to get them is directly from Stanley, last time I checked the replacement blade from them was more than the entire saw. The Stanley is great, I just wish you could by a replacement blade instead of a new saw. If you're buying new and don't already have any sort of flush cut saw I'd probably buy this one Shark makes fantastic fine saws

u/wooooooooooooooooood · 2 pointsr/woodworking

It's definitely realistic. Off the top of my head - I think you could buy pen blanks and a mitre box to cut the cubes. Instead of a dremel you could use a letter stamping kit or just use a stencil and permanent marker or paint. Actually...I might do this too since I love boggle.

u/ListenHereYouLittleS · 2 pointsr/woodworking

That's certainly an interesting issue. I'd say get a japanese dovetail saw and maybe one of these. Start a straight and plum cut with the saw that has a spine and then finish with the fine tooth side of the second pull saw. Japanese saws are miles ahead of any western style saws. Highly recommended.

u/sidfarkus · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Pull saws are by far the best option. I got a Shark pull saw and have had some good results with it for relatively cheap.

u/petecas · 1 pointr/Bowyer

https://www.amazon.com/9-Shinto-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0 amazing rasp - the open structure means it doesn't clog and it can remove material pretty dang fast.

u/Kremak · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

As a fellow Custodes player I hope I can shed some light on these questions, but I am by no means an expert, so I can only answer to my experience.

  1. I am not 100% sure, it could be that in the charge phase all charges are declared, and you need to choose who you overwatch at, or it could be that you declare charges one at a time. I do not have my rule book with me atm. Hopefully someone else can comment on this one.
  2. If a unit is in melee combat with another unit, they can not be targeted in the shooting phase except by pistol weapons.
  3. Captains and Vexilla models are characters and are used as single model units, so they are their own unit, get deployed separately and move / act separately. That said if you built the terminators with 1 captain, 1 vex, and 1 regular, you can not field your regular guy as you need a minimum unit of 3.
  4. Technically you could run your last guy as a count as captain if you want, otherwise you will need to get more to field a full unit. Also even if you modeled them as captain and vex, if you are playing casually for fun, you could ask your opponent if they are alright with you running them as regular terminators.
  5. For the shield question, when the unit is taking wounds, and no damage has been done yet you can choose which model is taking the wound, so you can pick your shield guy and roll your 3++. Once he is dead, then the rest of the wounds that unit take are at the squads 4++.
  6. On my wardens and terminators I took axes since my regular guards have spears, since they hit harder. The only reason to take spears over axes would be they cost less points IMO. As for your logic I think something is wrong. You are correct on hitting on a 2+, but your wounding should be much better. as example the Castellan axe is S+3 and wardens are S5, so you have an S8. So anything with toughness less than 8 is wounding on a 3+ and if they are toughness 4 or less, on a 2+. After that its an ap-2 so what ever their base save is they subtract 2 from their roll.
  7. If you were to re-model your units for axes, you would probably need to cut the arms off and re-glue since the plastic glue literally melts the plastic together, so something like a razor saw would be best (see link below). Otherwise, again unless you are playing someone who is a rules lawyer or in a tournament, just ask if its OK that you run them with axes (make sure you pay points for them if you are playing with points vs power level). https://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75300-Precision-Razor-Saw/dp/B00004Z2U4/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hobby+saw&qid=1562077004&s=hi&sr=1-4

    Hope this helps out, and let me know if I can clarify more on something.
u/webchimp32 · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

>Is there a correct way to break pasta in half? I just snap it with my hands, but then pieces go flying

Go to your local hobby shop, they should have some really small saws, it'll take a while but really good food is worth the wait.

u/MisterBiggums · 1 pointr/woodworking

When you are cutting with the handsaw: try starting at the corner of your top side right on the waste side edge of your pencil line, and get a straight saw kerf along that line on the top side. Then work your way down the other side, keeping the blade in the kerf you made on the top side.
If you aren't using a backsaw I suggest you try one. The back keeps the saw stiff when you cut. The 2 common types of backsaws are western or japanese. I recommend this one as a cheap good quality dovetail saw.
A good thing to remember is that japanese saws have no set to them so they will tend to not drift so much (set in the teeth makes a kerf slightly wider than your blade, and if they are not set properly they can cause problems,) and they also are filed so it cuts when you pull, not when you push.

u/NoCold · 2 pointsr/tarantulas

I'm really not that creative either, these are easier than they look!

Start with Jamie's arboreal enclosure tutorial and replace the silk leaves with silk flowers from a hobby store.

What she didn't mention is shaping the cork bark and water bowls. You want somewhat flat surfaces wherever something is getting glued to the tank. A cheap saw of some sort and some adhesive backed coarse grit sandpaper stuck on a flat block of wood is all you need. Don't use the saw on the water bowl though, just sand the side that's already kind of flat. Doesn't need to be perfect, the hot glue will glob up and fill voids. Make sure you rinse off the bowls after sanding and dry them before glueing.

Let me know if you have any more questions!

u/HobbyAccumulator · 1 pointr/Bowyer

thanks! i think im gonna grab this shinto saw rasp based on some other users comments. They seem to like it a lot more than the surform.

u/octopornopus · 3 pointsr/Luthier

I picked up this one off Amazon, and it's amazing. So much faster than the files I was using before...

u/MysteriousRacer_X · 5 pointsr/XWingTMG

The tool you're looking for is called a razor saw. Good luck with the mod!

Edit: Keep in mind that it is not solid plastic, and you will have holes where you make your cut. You could use plasticard and green stuff to cover that up though.

u/kempo666 · 3 pointsr/DIY

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-20-600-Clamping-Mitre-Box/dp/B00002X232

This is actually a LOT nicer than the one I used... I think mine was like $10.

u/MenhirMike · 1 pointr/woodworking

Thanks! I have the slats from an old bed lying around, making boxes seems like a great start, especially because in my preliminary research into woodworking, joints seem to be one of THE core skills.

I'll stop by the Home Depot some time to pick up a few tools since all I own is a hammer, screwdrivers, some levels, a jab saw and a power drill.

u/SpagNMeatball · 1 pointr/woodworking

I really like the flat, flexible blade Japanese style saws, they work well for a lot of things, but this type of cut it is great for.

If you don't have one, you can use any regular saw, cut it a little high then chisel or sand it down.

u/mikeber55 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

The Japanese saws are the best in my opinion.

Ryoba 9-1/2" Double Edge Razor Saw for Hardwoods from Japan Woodworker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-lSSzbN5D86T6

u/Maplefractal · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I purchased 2 different saws, one with a rigid back for dovetail. And then purchased a separate saw that had teeth on both sides. It had a rip side and a cross cut on the opposite.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Y4ZUJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Love that saw, recommend it to anyone who will listen.

u/kcsquared · 5 pointsr/videos

Not OP but a drywall saw cuts through them like butter. Works WAY better than those tiny flimsy saws they sell in the kits. Only downside is that they are thicker so less precise when doing a really intricate design.

Drywall saw

u/TramStopDan · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

This is similar to one I've used before for cutting drywall. It will also cut into electrical lines so be careful and make sure the power is off.

Behind the chrome cover plate that looks like a cone on the drain - is there a big thing that looks like a nut?

u/mxzf · 7 pointsr/woodworking

For budget starting with dovetails, I'd probably get a saw like a cheap Dozuki. For chisels, you can start with something cheap-ish and sharpen them enough to work decently well with a bit of effort.

u/boppamowmowmow · 2 pointsr/DIY

This is an inexpensive, yet well made and very fast-cutting wood saw. It'll make quick work of a plastic barrel: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-20-045-15-Inch-Fat-Hand/dp/B00005A1JN/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1309748538&sr=8-2

Edit: I actually own one, and it is badass.

u/kevroy314 · 1 pointr/woodworking

So I actually bought/used this which came with a back saw. That's what I used to do the bulk of the cuts (although at one point I switched to a smaller wood saw in hopes of better performance (which it maybe did slightly).

u/MajinLuud · 2 pointsr/woodworking

“SUIZAN Japanese Hand Saw 6 inch Dozuki (Dovetail) Pull Saw for Woodworking” https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07314SWRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D20bBb2EXY5NC


Check out what the rest of their store has too.

u/rockayama · 3 pointsr/DIY

To use a hand planer, you need it to be really sharp (which that stanley one wont be) and you'd probably need a shooting board to aid you.

I would use a crosscut hand saw. A Japanese Ryoba would do pretty well, and it's not a splurge price-wise.

A straight cut isn't too hard to do free hand, but if you'd like to be precise, you can clamp a block (2x4, 4x4 cutoff) to your piece on the cut line and use the block as a guide to keep your saw straight. You could also buy a mitre box or a box and saw combo

u/not_a_ · 3 pointsr/Bowyer

I second the Shinto: http://www.amazon.com/Shinto-9-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0

However, for finer tillering I prefer a good cabinet scraper

u/V-chalk · 1 pointr/Tools

Is [Suizan] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MU9XB1W/) a good brand? Don't know much about Japanese tool.

u/joshred · 1 pointr/woodworking

Same here. I essentially built the whole thing using one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1341947923&sr=1-1&keywords=japanese+saw). I thought a jigsaw would work, but I had too much trouble getting 90° edges. The pull saw worked beautifully, although it did get a little laborious. For the half joints I used a chisel, same as your plan.

Are you going to use all 2x4s, or are you going to use hardwood?

u/mrliquidjesus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

The saw?
Something like this Xacto X75300 Precision Razor Saw Set

u/Nastier_Nate · 1 pointr/woodworking

For crosscutting and medium/large tenon cuts, I'd consider the Gyokucho Ryoba to be the best value saw out there. I've got a little Dozuki that I picked up at Woodcraft that I use for dovetails and small stuff, but that Ryoba is a workhorse for less than $30.

https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ

u/mikelostcause · 1 pointr/cocktails

That looks like a pull saw. Something similar to this

u/kittehmew · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

A saw because much like a saw, many politicians are tools. :o

Go vote, kid.

u/Bob_A_Ganoosh · 8 pointsr/woodworking

I'd like to throw this in to contention for your dovetail saw consideration.

u/embrow · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

If you don't have a sawzall, get one of these bad boys:

Irwin

or Ryoba

I have the Ryoba, it's an amazing saw. They cut on the pull stroke so it's easier to keep a straight line than a western saw. They also have flexible blades which make trimming flush a breeze.

u/jldude84 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Hmm...most useful things for $300. I would recommend Lowe's/Home Depot, but since you're limited to Amazon....

u/Satheleron · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Before you go and start sawing away with a regular hobby knife try a razor saw, and like /u/_hei said try freezing and popping them off first.

http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75300-Precision-Razor-Saw/dp/B00004Z2U4

u/Kalzenith · 1 pointr/woodworking

A ryoba saw could make quick work of that. You use the saw with two hands so it's fairly simple to keep straight. Just be sure to rotate the post to get each line started before going too deep.

Otherwise you could just go to town with a sharp low angle plane.

u/Rooossone · 1 pointr/Tools

A hobby saw is a scroll saw. They are the machine equivalent of a coping saw. The coping saw will be your easiest and cheapest option for sure.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NI8N2K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520900511&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=coping+saw&dpPl=1&dpID=31wKgKTAhdL&ref=plSrch I know the material in this video is different but the end goal is the same.... https://youtu.be/6aWh3LDLjpw

u/marathon_endurance · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I bought my Japanese saw from Amazon for less than $30

Ryoba 9-1/2" Double Edge Razor Saw for Hardwoods from Japan Woodworker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HpPUzbW5HV6CF

u/LockSolver · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

Xacto Razor Saw from Amazon for $10.

u/LE_POOR_MERIT · 2 pointsr/videos

Please let this be a parody. I just can't tell. The music hints at awesomeness, but it's just... not.

Just keep your knife and buy this. I've even seen less expensive ones made of plastic.

u/bird_shit_welder · 1 pointr/BackYardChickens

If you're going to go the handsaw route get this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CEF5HM/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1458949246&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ryoba

You get two blades in one. One for cross-cuts (perpendicular to the grain) and one for rip cuts (with the grain). It's sharp and makes quick work of short cuts.

If you plan on using something like plywood or osb for sheathing I'd invest in a circular saw. They're a dime a dozen on classifieds for $20-$30.

Get a couple quick clamps too, these will help you clamp wood down to a bench to cut with either type of saw. With a circular saw you can clamp a straight piece of wood on a panel and run the saw along the edge of it to cut in a straight line.

u/Roach_Coach_Bangbus · 3 pointsr/starterpacks

Get a drywall jab saw like this. Cuts through that shit E-Z and also comes to a fine point for detailed and clean cuts.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-20-556-6-Inch-FatMax-Jab/dp/B00005QVQH

u/uselessjd · 1 pointr/woodworking

Is this the saw you are referencing?

u/my_cat_joe · 2 pointsr/DIY

Hacksaw. Starting at $5. Dremels start at $70!

u/blounsbury · 64 pointsr/woodworking

It’s called a Dozuki saw. Based on his $40 price tag it’s orobably this one:

Gyokucho 372 Razor Saw Dotsuki Takebiki Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JW19U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Oqk0AbCGAH5QP

u/ZeroPercent_7 · 1 pointr/videos

If anyone was wondering what that hollow thing he used to file it down was, it's a saw rasp.

u/lol_admins_are_dumb · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Ryoba Saw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CEF5HM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

By far my most used saw in the shop. The lack of spine means you can cut all the way through things and also makes it perfect for flush cutting (lay it flush against the surface and press the flat of the blade into the surface as you draw it back and forth. Takes no effort). The two different sized teeth let you do fine or aggressive cuts. I've cut PVC pipe, big ass oak logs (though obviously if you're cutting logs you want a bigger saw but for one-off this worked) and every thing in between. I bent the corner of it when I was really thrashing it and just bent it back with pliers and it's good as new

u/wckdwabbit · 1 pointr/1022

Glad I could help.

I should have though about mentioning it earlier, the front sight can be a bear to get out. I had to use a dremel to cut mine out. I could have tried the patient route by soaking it in penetrating oil first but I cut it out instead.

Depending on just how stuck it is you may need to borrow or buy a cutting tool if you don't already have one. I'm partial to power tools when available but I believe something like this would work. It may take a little time though.

u/Earl_of_69 · 3 pointsr/Luthier

Saw rasp very messy, but lots of control, and can remove a lot of material.

Then, you will want sandpaper.

u/arangov3 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Japanese saws

I picked the one below up and it cuts to a finished edge just looking from something bigger(lower tpi) for large stock.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CEF5HM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/bigkripp · 2 pointsr/woodworking

SUIZAN Japanese Hand Saw 6 inch Dozuki (Dovetail) Pull Saw for Woodworking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07314SWRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ExEwCb4G80JNM use this. It's a true joinery saw. That Irwins offset handle will make your life hell

u/KaseyMcFly · 5 pointsr/MorbidReality

I was wondering what a 6 inch dry wall saw looked like apparently this was the murder weapon

u/jdwayner · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Ryoba 9-1/2" Double Edge Razor Saw for Hardwoods from Japan Woodworker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSQU9UQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Gyokucho 770-3500 Razor Dozuki Saw with Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CEF5HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_h4ZQAb8657W4D

Sorry for the crappy links, I'm on mobile. These are the two I purchased. They are fine for me!

u/oonooneoo · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I'd use a razor saw to cut them off the bases. If you start your cut just under the boot, it should be easy to remove the figures cleanly with little to no damage.

u/TwinklyStinkly · 1 pointr/woodworking

I used this Ryoba saw, and hated every second of it!

That said, don't be intimidated. I was too, but it didn't turn out to be as bad as I thought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MU9XB1W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492805550&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ryoba&psc=1