(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best hardware adhesives & sealers
We found 395 Reddit comments discussing the best hardware adhesives & sealers. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 182 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
21. Milliput Medium Fine 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Black
Black 2-part epoxy puttyLong shelf lifeSelf Hardening Putty
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 5.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | October 2015 |
Size | 4oz Pack |
Weight | 0.26 Pounds |
Width | 1.5 Inches |
22. Elmer's E842L Carpenter's Interior Wood Filler; 32 Ounce; 1 Quart
Ideal for Repairing Holes, Dents, Scratches, Gouges and Defects On Any Wood, Wallboard, Molding or Painted Surface12-24 Hours Dry Time; Dries Fast, Dries HardPaintable + Sandable; Resists Shrinking + CrackingEasy Water Cleanup; Solvent Free
Specs:
Color | Tan Brown |
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Quart |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 4.88 Inches |
23. Gorilla Wood Glue, 4 Ounce Bottle, (Pack of 1)
- Easy-to-use, water based adhesive with Gorilla holding power
- Best for building, carpentry or hobby projects using any type of wood
- Complete Projects Faster; Requires only 20 - 30 minutes of clamp time, fully cured in 24 hours
- Use Indoors or Outdoors; Passes ANSI/HPVA Type II water resistance
- Versatile; Ideal for use on hardwoods, softwoods and natural wood composites
Features:
Specs:
Color | Off White |
Height | 6 Inches |
Length | 1.1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 - Pack |
Weight | 0.33 Pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
24. Bondo Home Solutions Wood Filler, Sandable in 15 min, 1.9 lbs with 1 oz Hardener
Restores and replaces rotted or damaged sections of wood on doors, windows, fences, furniture, shutters and moreOnce dried, it can be sanded, shaped, planed, drilled, routed or sawed just like wood1 Quart Can
Specs:
Color | white,blue,red |
Height | 4.25 Inches |
Length | 4.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | October 2011 |
Weight | 1.543235834 Pounds |
Width | 7 Inches |
25. Dap 00203 Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue, 1-Pound
This product is a 1lb plastic resin gluePurpose of use for glue, wood-gluesManufactured in chinaMakes wood joints stronger than wood itselfFor wood workers, carpenters, hobbyists, cabinet makers and other glue usersEasy to mix and useWill not stain the wood, highly water resistantBacteria and rot pr...
Specs:
Color | Tan |
Height | 4.88 Inches |
Length | 4.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 lb. |
Weight | 0.95 Pounds |
Width | 4.75 Inches |
26. Faller Expert 170492 Plastic Glue 25 g
- EAN 4104090004927
- Faller 170492
- Expert Plastic adhesive 0.88 oz
- Colours brush Adhesives
Features:
Specs:
Height | 11.93 Inches |
Length | 20.35 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.07 Pounds |
Width | 14.72 Inches |
27. Sugru Moldable Glue - Rebel Tech Kit
- SUGRU is the world's first mouldable glue that turns into rubber
- 6-in-1 formula: fix, bond, cushion, replace, create and seal
- So easy to use: stick it, shape it, it turns into rubber
- Strong and durable: adhere strongly and securely across many surfaces and environments
- Waterproof
- Sugru has a shelf life of 13 months from the date it's made; Please refer to the expiration date printed on the packaging; Storing Sugru in the fridge will triple the number of months left to use it
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black, White, Grey and Red |
Height | 7 Inches |
Length | 0.95 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Limited Edition |
Weight | 0.08 Pounds |
Width | 4.35 Inches |
28. PC Products PC-Petrifier Water-Based Wood Hardener, 16oz, Milky White 164440, 16-Ounce
- Wood Hardener Repairs Wood Damaged By Insects Or Rot
- It Is A Liquid That Is Brushed, Sprayed Or Injected Into The Pores Of The Wood
- No Mixing
- Prepares Wood For Filling, Priming And Painting
Features:
Specs:
Color | Milky White |
Height | 2.49999999745 Inches |
Length | 8.25196849552 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 16 oz |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 2.49999999745 Inches |
29. Amazing GOOP 310010 Nail Hole Filler Adhesive, 8.2 oz
This product is highly durableThe product is manufactured in ChinaThe product is easy to useReady-to-use spackling that requires no mixing, no putty knives, and no scraping or sandingSponge tip applicator evens out and finishes textured or smooth surfacesGreat on stucco, plaster, wallboard and woodN...
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 2.38 Inches |
Length | 1.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 8.2-Ounce |
Weight | 0.4 Pounds |
Width | 8.63 Inches |
30. Weller Woodburning and Hobbyists Kit
Ideal for sculpting and embossing wax candles, adding accents to picture framesgourds, ceramic, glass, leather, wicker, papier mache, fabric, etc., stencil cutting and embossing30-watt short barrel woodburning iron, 6x woodburning tips, Hot knife tip with blade chuckHandy plastic carrying caseUK mai...
Specs:
Height | 2.5984251942 Inches |
Length | 9.842519675 Inches |
Weight | 1.1 Pounds |
Width | 4.2519684996 Inches |
31. Elmer's E7310 Carpenter's Wood Glue Max, Interior/Exterior, 16 Ounces
- Bonds stronger than wood
- Non-toxic, no harmful fumes, and easy to clean up with water
- Resists heat
- 16-ounce bottle of extra-strength wood adhesive
- Elmer's: The Glue with the Orange Cap
- 16 ounce bottle of extra-strength wood adhesive
- Resists heat
- Non-toxic, no harmful fumes and easy to clean up with water
- Bonds stronger than wood
- 20 to 30 minute clamp time, 24 hours to full bond
Features:
Specs:
Color | Tan |
Height | 10.03543306063 Inches |
Length | 2.53543306828 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 16 Ounce |
Weight | 1.27 Pounds |
Width | 4.28740157043 Inches |
32. Timbermate Mahogany Hardwood Wood Filler 8oz Jar
- Easy preparation
- Timbermate is versatile and may be used for all interior repairs, including repairing edges.
- Fast drying
- When you’re done with your repair, scoop it up and put it back in the bucket.
- Timbermate protects wood and doesn’t harm it.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3.15 Inches |
Length | 2.1 Inches |
Weight | 0.6 Pounds |
Width | 2.15 Inches |
33. Titebond 1413 III Ultimate Wood Glue, 8-Ounces
- Superior waterproof wood glue is ideal for exterior and interior woodworking! One hour clamp time! Cleans up with water.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Tan |
Height | 1.5 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 8 Ounce |
Weight | 0.551155655 Pounds |
Width | 7.25 Inches |
34. J-B Weld 8251 WoodWeld Quick Setting Wood Epoxy Adhesive - 1.52 oz.
J-B Weld Woodweld: a fast setting two-part epoxy system formulated for wood bonding and repairs. WoodWeld provides permanent and lasting bonds that are stronger than wood! Perfect for all indoor/outdoor wood DIY repair projectsCure and set time: after mixing the tubes at a 1:1 ratio, it takes 6 minu...
Specs:
Height | 0.82 Inches |
Length | 7.9 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 2 oz |
Weight | 0.0992080179 Pounds |
Width | 4.8 Inches |
35. Tuff Duck Concrete Countertop Sealer 750ml (24 oz) Counter-top
- Satin Finish Sealer covers 45-60 square ft per 750ml bottle
- Water-based formula is FOOD SAFE & NON-TOXIC and has no VOC’s
- Specifically designed for Concrete Surfaces such as Countertops & Sinks
- Detailed application instructions supplied with every purchase
- Tuff Duck penetrates deep into the concrete while leaving a durable shell on the surface
Features:
Specs:
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 2 Inches |
Weight | 1.72 Pounds |
Width | 2 Inches |
36. Silcone Glue Roller
- Made of nonstick silicone
- Grooved roller
- Comfortable knurled steel handle
- WoodRiver is proudly made by Woodcraft, America’s leading supplier of saws, planes, power tools, hand tools, wood stain and paint, routers, sanding, wood, kits, dust collection and more. Our award winning family of brands includes WoodRiver, Highpoint, Woodcraft and Woodcraft Magazine as well as the greatest selection of woodworking books, videos, and plans.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.9 Inches |
Length | 3.75 Inches |
Weight | 0.13 Pounds |
Width | 5.55 Inches |
37. Titebond 5063 Original Wood Glue, 8-Ounces
This item is a Franklin International 5063 Titebond Original Wood Glue, 8-OuncePurpose of use for Hardware, wood-gluesThis product is manufactured in United StatesBonds stronger than woodFast Set - Short Clamp TimeWater Cleanup - Non-toxicExcellent SandabilityUnaffected by finishes
Specs:
Color | Yellow |
Height | 7.38 Inches |
Length | 1.38 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 8 Ounce |
Weight | 0.29 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
38. Bondic LED UV Liquid Plastic Welding Starter Kit
- INCREDIBLE ADHESIVE - When fully cured Bondic is 100% waterproof and is also heat-resistant. Dries clear and can be sanded or painted after it is hardened. Non toxic
- UV LIGHT ACTIVATED - The incorporated LED UV light has an easy press button and when the liquid is exposed to the UV light it cures in seconds to a permanent bond
- BONDIC IS NOT A GLUE - The solvent free formula stays liquid until it is hardened by UV light which means there is no chance of drying up in the container
- BOND, BUILD, FIX AND FILL - plastic, wood, metal, PVC, steel, rubber, wiring, ceramic, figurines, vinyl, Kevlar, polypropylene, leather and so much more
- COMPLETE STARTER KIT - Includes everything needed to start fixing: hand held applicator, LED UV light, and tube of liquid adhesive all held in a handy metal case
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 9.5 Inches |
Length | 4.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 4g |
Weight | 0.13125 Pounds |
Width | 0.75 Inches |
39. Franklin International 6123 Titebond Trans Glue, 8-Ounce
8 oz. Translucent Wood GlueVirtually invisible glue lineProvides a fast set and strong bondExcellent heat resistanceSets faster than most other white glues
Specs:
Height | 7.5 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 8 fl oz |
Weight | 0.17999999984905 Pounds |
Width | 1.38 Inches |
40. Franklin International 5002 Titebond-2 Glue, 4-Ounce
- First one-part wood glue to pass ANSI type II water resistance
- Excellent sandability
- Unaffected by finishes
- Easy cleanup with water
- Cross-linking polyvinyl acetate
Features:
Specs:
Color | Honey Cream |
Height | 6.692913379 Inches |
Length | 3.93700787 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Weight | 0.2866009406 Pounds |
Width | 2.362204722 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on hardware adhesives & sealers
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where hardware adhesives & sealers are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Don’t buy just any wood glue. Use this, or any titebond wood glue really. . Original titebond isn’t water resistant. Titebond II & III both are - up to you.
Both of these glues are actually stronger than the wood itself. However, woodglue does not dry clear, if you’re wanting to minimize the appearance, you usually mix in saw dust from the piece you’re working with to “colors the glue. In your case this really isn’t an option unless you can find a similar piece of wood or remove some from another side.
I would say for now, id wrap some rubber bands or string around the body where it’s cracked to prevent further cracking. Document the issue and contact customer support. If they’re not gonna replace it, then I’d try the glue. If you can’t find similar saw dust then it will be a slightly yellow color. Squirt some out and let it dry on something disposable to see if this is gonna be a deal breaker for you. If you do find some sawdust, mix it in with the glue and apply it with something like a toothpick. Then clamp the piece together and let dry to for 24 hours or whatever he bottle says. Remove any extra glue that squeezes out. You could use string or rubber bands as opposed to a clamp, but I wouldn’t recommend it as any squeeze out would adhere to these and require clean up.
If you don’t have a clamp of appropriate size, I bet a large binder clip would do the job nicely.
Best of luck either way. Sorry about your stem!
If they replace it and don’t want the cracked one back let me know!
I’ve been wanting to experiment with removing some material from one of these with a Dremel and filling it in with epoxy resin for a neat look and I’d love to buy this off of ya! Best of luck again!
Edit: according to titebonds website most of their glues are safe and nontoxic up to 200F. I don’t think that area would get much hotter than that, but I’d like to emphasize think cause I don’t actually know that.
Additionally they do indeed make glue that describe as “colorless” when it dries. I’ve never seen it, so I can’t really comment further on what colorless actually means. It’s actually called titebond translucent so, there’s that. this is a comparison pic of many titebond types after 12 hours of curing.
Hope this helps ya 🙋🏼♂️
I've said this a few times when these threads crop up. I'm building a beginner model ship by Constructo, called the Albatross. It's a good starter kit, and has pretty decent instructions in various languages and with pictures. Always read a couple of steps ahead and do some research before you take the plunge as the instructions aren't 100% and some terms don't go between languages well.
I have quite a collection of hobby type tools about after many years as a kid in the hobby, but the kit comes with a decent knife, blades, sanding block, tweezers and pliers. Constructo also do other, smaller, cheaper kits too, but I thought if I'm making a ship, I want a half decent square rigger, since I work on a real one so it's a bit closer to my heart.
Since you're a newbie, let me elaborate on what might make your life a little easier when making the kit.
A few things I would suggest additionally you may need, would be definitely some dress making pins, maybe a vice that's bolted to your desk, just so it's easier to hold, and some decent wood glue. I also use the odd mini cramp. A small razor saw is a good plan too, as it makes chopping wood a little easier than just using the supplied craft knife, especially when the planking is on the model and you can't press down with a knife. I wouldn't bother with using the metal tacks in the kit, use the dress making pins instead, the tacks are shite and leave big holes, they also bend horribly. When you need to bend any wood, soaking it is a good idea, makes it a lot more malleable, there is a lot of resource online to help you with these techniques.
You can view a finished Albatross by /u/Sun_Searcher here.
For the money, I think it's a good one to have a crack at as a starter. I'm after building HMS Surprise, but she's a bit big and advanced for a newbie to contemplate, so when this one is done, perhaps Surprise shall be next, much to my Mrs's consternation.
Here's my last picture, I've gotten a bit further but life seems to be getting in the way at the moment.
To clarify are you referring to the sharp angular corners on the metal housing for the CA's?
If so, I feel your pain... The shell design albeit aesthetically pleasing are kind of an ergonomic clusterfuck (IMHO). From personal experience I strongly recommend using some sort of quick-set silicon/rubber to get a comfier fit! Sugru or Radians' Moldable Ear Plugs work great!
Here's a pic of my KZ ZS5 knockoffs with Sugru covering those harsh edges that make them uncomfortable for extended listening or under and minimumal pressure. Since the CA's have no diaphragm ports or venting on the shell you could get away with covering interior side's surface entirely to give the best form fit to your ears. I'd suggest you don't try to fit them with a material like Sugru directly on your ears unless it's made for that like the Radians' earplugs. (Also added tip, just put a generous amount of the moldable rubber in the general shape of your ears and shave down the extra after its set)
If you decide you'd rather not have the rubber attached to your Jupiter's for a more permanent (less hassle imo) addition, just go the moldable ear plugs route and tape over the iem's nozzles first. Then quickly slap the globs of silicon in your ears making sure they're making a nice, deep seal over your ear canal, and squish the CA's snugly into the mold. Make sure they're in nice and secure with the nozzle seated towards your ear drum. (Tip: Do this fast because the silicon becomes unsalvageable roughly 30 seconds to a minute after you've mixed it) With this option you won't need any ear tips for your CA's and they'll have excellent isolation. The downside being they do look like you're wearing some strange franken-hearing-aid homunculus of sorts. (You can get them in a tan color 😂)
I just assembled this over the weekend. It was a little more work than I thought, so here is what I’d say to do:
Get this hobby knife (or something like it): SE 813PK 16-Piece Hobby Knife Set with Aluminum Collet Chucks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BBYIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FRGhAb4HDSWWY
The pieces were very difficult to punch out and several big pieces splintered in places (not to the point of structural integrity). After a couple of this (I know I know, I tried to change my technique), I used the flat chisel like piece to begin punching them out. Took a lot more time but it worked. Pressed the chisel down and lightly tapped with the hobby hammer I got from Meeple Reality.
Speaking of which, get this hobby hammer (or something similar, the light weight is important. I got big hands but it is fatiguing swinging the little bigger guys): Cousin Craft and Jewelry Mallet, 8-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001144WTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SJHhAbJ83KX36
Once the glue is in, or you got the pieces together, hammer them in. Check for gaps in the joints.
Speaking of which, get this wood glue (or something like it) : Gorilla Wood Glue, 4 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDM9I3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MOGhAbT804887
The first half or so I applied it to every joint. Keep a paper towel handy or something to clean the excess that seeps out.
The last couple of intricate pieces I only glued the outside supports. The intricate pieces inside didn’t require it. I’m pretty sure it’ll hold. If it doesn’t I’ll glue it when it happens.
Ok, I think I got it down. I wrote this over 4 sessions as time permitted quick style, so if something is weird or doesn’t make sense let me know. I have so little DIY experience , so if I can do this, you can do this.
> Timbermate wood filler is the shit and blends really well if you get the right kind.
This stuff looks better than the Elmer's Probond Stainable Wood Filler that I've been using.
It seems like the Timbermate color that is the closest match to my window trim is the Mahogany Hardwood color. Do you recommend that I still stain the Timbermate filler, so that it blends in better with the surrounding wood?
There is a LOT of info in this sub on cutting board finishes / glue. A quick search should return what you're looking for. That being said, I'll give you what I use here:
Glue - Titebond III. It's water proof (not resistant).
Finish - A mixture of beeswax and mineral oil. It needs to be re-applied occasionally, but it's super easy for beginners. Stay away from salad bowl finishes until you've made a few boards and want to try something a little more durable.
Woods - Hard maple and walnut are the easiest, but anything tight grained will work. Stay away from open grain woods (oak, etc.).
You make youtube videos, and spread the glue with your finger? Try one of these. Get two. Just make sure to wash it off after use. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2B73E6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can thank me later :) I love mine.
Came here to congratulate you as the proud owner of a homemade spoon! /j
By the way, how do you feel about burning a drawing of sorts into your pipe?
Wood engravers (or fancy pants pyrography pens) are pretty cheap, for example, this is the [Weller HK1] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Weller-Woodburning-and-Hobbyists-Kit/dp/B000X8I86C/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1412626603&sr=1-1&keywords=woodburning) I use.
Hit it, Price Zombie!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Weller-Woodburning-and-Hobbyists-Kit/dp/B000X8I86C/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1412626603&sr=1-1&keywords=woodburning
I HIGHLY recommend getting a glue with a needle-point applicator. Some of the things you will be gluing - like hands - are very, very, very tiny.
This glue is incredible. Best model glue I've ever used.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000WROZ2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00
Push pin holes are easy to fix and hardly noticable. I doubt you would even need to paint, and if so, it would a tiny dot of paint. Unless you're looking directly at it, you wouldn't know that there used to be a hole there.
Lemme find the product:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Nail-Hole-and-Small-Hole-Repair/50199661
I don't like that product as much as a previous product that had a nice angled tip. I can't find the angled tip product any more. Lemme check Amazon.
Oh, this is close. Get this stuff instead: https://www.amazon.com/Amazing-GOOP-310010-Filler-Adhesive/dp/B000PI7TVK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1484318989&sr=8-6&keywords=nail+hole+filler
What happens is you squeeze a bit into the hole through the center of that large tip, and then you pull down, effectively wiping off the surface but leaving the filler in the little hole. Works great.
Not OP, but Bondo is pretty common. However, you should wear gloves and a respirator when working with it.
I personally prefer wood filler. It's cheaper, and safe to work with your hands.
Sounds like a plan. Thanks for taking the time out. Now I just need to source the materials you have described.
Would something like this do? https://www.amazon.co.uk/J-B-Wood-Weld-Epoxy/dp/B004NB3OMS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1480846597&sr=8-7&keywords=jb+weld+2+part+epoxy
or perhaps I get something white so that I don't have to bother with paint etc.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UniBond-2002387-Repair-Express-Epoxy/dp/B019CXIO1C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480846752&sr=8-3&keywords=white+wood+epoxy
Okay so It's a pretty labor-intensive process, so be forewarned
I didn't want to just draw the parts by hand because I wanted the shield to be game accurate, so I took this picture and had it printed on a poster at my local staples, I used the largest poster size, so this was about $20. I then cut out the entire shield from the poster to draw the base, and cut out each of the detail pieces to trace.
I cut and sanded everything with a multi-use dremel. The wood that I used was 1/4 inch birch, which is easy to cut and sand. I got a big sheet at home depot, and I ended up only using half. (I might use the other half to make the Master Sword Scabbard later this year) I would recommend using 3/4 inch wood or layering more pieces than I did, because my shield doesn't have anywhere near as much depth as I would like.
So I cut out the smaller shield pieces for layering by tracing the large shield piece, then taking a 2-3 inch block of wood and running it around the inside edge of the first trace. I made sure the three pieces were centered on top of each other before supergluing them together.
I filled spaces on the layered shield with wood bondo, sanded that down as smooth as possible, then filled all the little holes with wood filler, of course you have to sand this too. Then I painted it with this, but you can use a lighter shade if you want a different look. Finally, I covered the whole thing in newspaper except for the little parts where the border shows through (the silver triangles) and I painted those silver.
For the border I cut the border out of the poster and traced it on the birch, cut it out with a dremel, then cut it into sections and sanded it down. I laid it down on top of shield base (after I had filled it in with the bondo) and filled the gaps between the border parts with bondo. What this does is reconnect the border pieces in a curved manner that perfectly fits on the base. When the bondo dries, add more bondo on the reverse side of the border to strengthen the connection. Then you can sand it down smooth. Spray paint that shit silver and you're good.
For the triforce, pointy decals, and bolts for the border, I cut them out of the poster, traced them onto particle board, cut them out and sanded them to look 3-dimensional. I painted them, and that's that.
Attach all the pieces together using wood caulk. The last step is adding Hylia's Crest, which was frustrating to figure out at first. What I ended up doing was cutting out the details from the poster, tracing them onto this and cutting them out. These decals were a little too pink for me, so I painted them with this glossy red paint. Finally I peeled off the backing and stuck them on the shield.
To hang it up, I pounded some small nails into the back and hung a metal wire between them.
Thanks for your interest. I'd be happy to answer any other questions you have!
epoxy putty like milliput or green stuff or even JB Weld. First use a bit to make an imprint of the pattern of the plastic (use some plastic wrap so it doesn't stick to the car, or if you're a pro, use a mold release agent, or vaseline on the car part, press the putty on the plastic and let it harden) then fill the hole with some of the putty and use the pattern mold you made to press it flat.
Should come out pretty close. You may need to remove the part to put tape behind it to help keep the putty from squishing through the holes too much.
True, but the result of baking soda plus superglue looks like wet granulated sugar. This looks more like powdered plastic resin glue but I'm not sure on that either.
https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E7310-Carpenters-Interior-Exterior/dp/B0045PXPH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527550346&sr=8-1&keywords=elmers+wood+glue
The proper glue is 7 dollars and has enough glue to last you indefinitely for your music maint needs.
It is actually cheaper than most super glues.
I don't advise using super glue. My friends have toasted enough necks by their nuts because they super glued their nuts.
I'm not sure if its cheapest but Tuff Duck was highly recommended to us and we use it on our concrete skim coat kitchen counters. It does slightly darken and gloss the finish but you can also water it down and do a 3 coat approach for a matt finish. We're about due for a reseal after 12 months of use. Its really easy to apply.
For the glue I would use a UF type, like this. Get the glue as far back in the gap as possible using a butter knife or something. Then put some very heavy and even weight on top and let it sit 48 hours. Keep the area as moisture free as possible in the future, and I recommend not using the heated dry in the dishwasher.
The mini's aren't too difficult to build, though I understand it can be overwhelming. There are official build guides (build.kingdomdeath.com). To get started on building you'll need 3 things:
You don't need those exact ones, those are just examples. The most difficult model was the Phoenix probably, but some, like the antelope, are only like 5 pieces.
I generally achieve this by using "green stuff/kneadtite" (or more typically for weaponry...) milliput and sculpting the weapons.
I feel like actual wood might not be as durable as I'd prefer for regular tabletop use, especially if you have players that haven't been taught to be gentle with the miniatures or if you don't have a case for transport purposes. It should hold paint alright tho...but to be fair I've only ever used it for an actual basing material.
If you buy a wood desk from Office Depot, IKEA, or anywhere else, ALWAYS put it together with a squiggled bead of Titebond Wood Glue on the surface of every joint and place a dab of glue into every dowel and screw hole. It will not come apart or wobble. Just be sure to wipe away the excess glue with a wet towel as you tighten the joints.
As an example, a sizable particle board corner desk with built in cabinets on each side that I bought in 2000 at Best Buy is still in use by my Dad and has been through moves from FL > NC > OH > WI (and now three different homes in WI) in the last 18 years and has never come apart.
I have done this for 25+ years and have never had a piece of furniture assembled in this way fail on me.
This is the stuff in case you aren't familiar - You can get it at any Lowes/Home Depot locally: https://www.amazon.com/Titebond-5063-Original-Wood-8-Ounces/dp/B0002YWZPW?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-osx-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0002YWZPW
Oh no these things are stout. When I built them I used proper wood glue (not just dipping the dowels in water) on all the joints, and used a ratchet instead of that dinky hex key it came with. Just don't turn them the wrong orientation when setting them up. The "shelves" should be horizontal; if you turn it sideways by accident and the individual slats are load-bearing, you might have a swaying left-to-right issue.
The only problem I really had was the carpet. My floors aren't completely plumb near the baseboard and the shelves tilted away from the wall. Those things came with anchoring kits (for liability reasons, "hey dummy we gave you a wall anchor") and I thought of using them but instead had a better idea. I took heavy cardboard and some wooden door casing wedges and made a little platform under the shelves to tilt them back.
They're pretty solid, I'm not worried about my kids knocking them over.
Here's a better image of the pieces. https://imgur.com/a/PSuOZRn
Will be trying out this epoxy (smallest I could find on Amazon) https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8251-WoodWeld-Adhesive/dp/B004NB3OMS/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=wood+epoxy&qid=1551207459&s=gateway&sr=8-8
Will also be getting slightly larger set screws (I think that's what the gold pieces are called?) and screws. I was missing one anyway so this was a good kick in the butt to finally give this stool some care.
Thanks so much for the advice everyone!
Before you tear anything out, buy some PC Petrifier Wood Hardener and PC Woody epoxy wood filler. Remove the paint, drill some holes in the rotted sections and let them dry thoroughly. Apply the hardener with a paint brush making sure to soak it in as much as possible. Once it dries, the wood will be solid. Fill the holes and missing wood with the wood filler, then repaint. Good as new!
https://www.amazon.com/Products-164440-PC-Petrifier-Water-Based-Hardener/dp/B00081FW1I/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=pc+petrifier&qid=1567970132&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Protective-Coating-083338-Woody-Epoxy/dp/B00CAG4GGG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=pc+woody&qid=1567970161&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Depends where you are.
Oplaser is based in the UK and I'm in France.
It took 15 days between my order and package arrival, with only one notification from the the delivery agency (Parcel2Go.com)
Beware that the box arrived unassembled, you have to assemble it yourself, so you have to get some wood glue (like this one : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B0001YS16U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a strap to help you fix every part together (https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B001W7HYDQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
But in the end, the product is really great, worth the investment.
sorry for bad english ...
Once you have removed everything bad, I would use a wood hardener like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Products-164440-PC-Petrifier-Water-Based-Hardener/dp/B00081FW1I/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=Rot+fix&qid=1566419161&s=gateway&sr=8-12
And I typically use Bondo because it is cheaper, but an expoxy is better (this is just really expensive)
https://www.amazon.com/Products-PC-Woody-Repair-Epoxy-Two-Part/dp/B000H5O7Y8/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Rot+fix&qid=1566419309&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Then you can paint it. More here:
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Polyester_Versus_Epoxy_Wood_Fillers.html
That is not going to be strong enough. THIS is what you need - it's a two part polyvinyl product. If you are trying at Lowes, THIS or THIS would work.
Maybe this’ll work?
Moldable glue like sugru. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M65432U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tXzsDbR3EEKPA
There’s also homemade stuff too called proto putty. https://alltop.com/viral/make-proto-putty-putty-solidifies-hours
This type of stuff is good for unique applications, not sure how well it’s work with cloth/fiber cables.
Bondic Laser BONDING TECH SK001 Liquid Plastic Welder Complete Starter Kit, 4-Gram, 4g https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MR7J5ZX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xPS0CbWZEKEJY
I’ve used it for many kids toy repairs, very strong.
I guess I could provide a guide for my palm rest
Supplies needed:
 
Instructions:
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-BONDING-SK001-Plastic-Complete/dp/B01MR7J5ZX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=uv+bondic&qid=1562000740&s=gateway&sr=8-5
This should help.
Thanks for the info. Let me know what concrete sealer you end up going for lol. This product on Amazon seems to have good reviews but I'm a touch hesitant to get it.
You will be happy with those Sony's - lot of bang for your buck!
For your cable problem, take a look at Sugru
I need to fill in door hinges and a door latch on the door frame from where I removed a door. Would this product work to fill the space? After which I would sand it down and then paint? Or do I need to cut a thin sliver to fit? The hinge is shallow.
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-Home-Solutions-Wood-Filler/dp/B0007ZG9T4
Probably will be tough to fill it without it being obvious. Here's something close to the product /u/ZXWoodworker mentioned:
http://www.amazon.com/Timbermate-Mahogany-Hardwood-Wood-Filler/dp/B001NV16LM/ref=pd_sim_469_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=51K%2Bc7yf9aL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0HZEB54RA7Y4FGYABH71
They make a ton of different colors. So far it's dried, sanded, and taken stain very well for me.
You could also rip, rejoint, and reglue that seem if you wanted to get rid of it.
A silicone glue roller would work here. Just make sure you go light on the glue or squeeze out will be a pain to clean up. https://www.amazon.com/WOODRIVER-Silcone-Glue-Roller/dp/B00H2B73E6
Here is the amazon link for that glue http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045PXPH6
I can't find a replacement piece anywhere online.
I would suggest hot-gluing it in place or using some UV curable additive plastic welding to build that area back up, then a small drill bit to reform the screwhole.
Maybe I should just buy one of these and have a go myself - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Weller-Woodburning-and-Hobbyists-Kit/dp/B000X8I86C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426512957&sr=8-2&keywords=wood+engraving+tool
obviously you have never heard of this amazing product. https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-Home-Solutions-Wood-Filler/dp/B0007ZG9T4/ref=zg_bs_383886011_3
Is this what you mean by the millIput?
For example, I just ordered this because I can't stand the circular shape of this.
Add 1/3 of the flour weight of this to your base:
https://www.amazon.com/00203-Weldwood-Plastic-Resin-1-Pound/dp/B001003J16
So if your recipe calls for 3c of flour, use 2c of flour and 1c of this resin powder.
I don't know if they'll replace the case piece. If you've got accidental damage protection on it it's possible they'll replace it.
You could use something like Milliput to fill the hole - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Milliput-MPP-5-Epoxy-Putty-Black/dp/B002CSX7Z8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481221976&sr=8-1
I need wood glue. My kitchen chairs are adorable old antiques but they're just all kinds of broken.
First, you want to avoid softwoods and stick with your basic hardwoods (oak, maple, cherry, ash, poplar and a few others. No rainforest hardwoods, as they tend not to have happy reactions in many people).
As long as the cherry does not touch the glue, there should be no problem. Remember that a very thin bead of glue is more than adequate for almost all purposes. I would recommend A simple wood glue like http://www.amazon.com/Franklin-International-5063-Titebond-Original/dp/B0002YWZPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1367548726&sr=1-1&keywords=titebond+original+wood+glue
Most say a mineral oil rub is all you should use, but others may disagree with me. DO NOT put anything on the inside of the bowl or anywhere else that may come in contact with embers or flame.