Reddit mentions: The best hardware sealers

1. Oil dot filters and oil washes (gunk wash) are subtle changes to the overall tone of the kit and you're not going to be able to tell the difference between the two really when the kit is done. It doesn't really matter which you do first in my experience, but armor modelers seem to do a wash first and then the oil dot filters. Check out this video filters start at 10 minutes in.
   
2. There isn't a rule in what colors you need to use for what base coat. You need to decide what kind of environment has your mobile suit been in and select colors based on that. So for example, if your mobile suit has been fighting in the desert, then you'd want to have a more yellowish-beige-ish tone. Of course, you don't want to go over-board with the modulation, so your white parts will just have a slightly yellowish tone and not look like it's been painted yellow.
   
3. Maybe check out this video to get an answer on chipping. But yes, using a slightly lighter version of the base color and then your choice of the bare metal color (can be grey, silver, whatever you want) is a good way to do chipping. When it comes to white, use something contrasting like dark grey or maybe dark brown for a rust look.
   
4. You have the right idea going but you might want to use grey or dark grey instead of black. Black can be too contrasting just from an artistic point of view. You'd probably want to color-in the blasted part dark grey, dry brush the silver and add touches of rust here and there. But you also have to consider the state of your mobile suit. If the laser blast has been there for a while, you might not see silver metal, it'll probably be all rusted. And vice versa is true, if your mobile suit just got shot, there probably won't be any rust.
   
5. Yes there is a difference between acrylic and lacquer clear coat. Lacquer is generally more durable, it doesn't scratch as easily and you can use either enamels or acrylics on top of it safely, but it is pretty toxic stuff. Acrylics are a lot less toxic but if you paint enamels or lacquers over it, the enamel and lacquer paint will eat through the acrylic coat and can affect whatever work you have done under the varnish. Lacquers can indeed harm plastic, but if you use proper spraying technique (spray past your kit in multiple quick bursts), any solvents that can potentially harm the plastic will dry too quickly to do any damage. I'm not 100% sure what kind of a product the link you have is for, but ideally you'd want to find a good hobby brand spray can clear coat like this (acrylic) or this (lacquer)
   
6. Youtube and the wiki are your best friend, you don't need to buy books for those kinds of things, there are plenty of material out there. Checkout channels such as Gunpla Lab, Ravi Pla, JENIC, Zaku Aurelius, Musasino Plamodel, LIKE GUNPLA, (most of these channels speak korean some videos have subtitles, some don't) and non-gunpla channels such as PLASMO, Night Shift, Scale Modelling Channel and see what techniques can you bring over to gunpla. For a lot of the basic stuff and even some advanced techniques, check out Gunpla Lab's tutorial series and Paint Project series. They speak Korean but have professionally translated videos so the subtitles are fantastic.

24. Wall Acoustic Panels: These are useful for reducing high frequency sounds from echoing around the room. Mostly of benefit to people hearing you over microphone, such as streamers. You're unlikely to notice while gaming, especially if wearing headphones. With that said, manufacturer sold wall foam pads aren't actually so great. This [DIY video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABvTWSxOes)shows remarkably superior outcomes, plus they're way cheaper than proper acoustic foam panels. Of course, you may want to pretty them up, such as with some cheap [satin fabric](https://www.amazon.com/60-inches-Wide-Charmeuse-Costumes/dp/B07BP9XCDF/).
    
    
25. Room Sound Proofing/Deadening: Many confuse sound proofing and deadening, which is largely the fault of retailers switching between the terms and people buying products designed to do things they didn't think it would (e.g. "sound proofing curtains" is marketing bogus. There's no such thing. They are typically good for "deadening", however)! "Deadening" is for high frequency sounds, which acoustic panels (those black triangles/squares you often see on the walls of streamers) work great. Although you can accomplish far better results, for much less money, with a [simple and cheap DIY](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABvTWSxOes)\- both of which are safe to home owners (no nails required). This should be beyond your needs for basic streaming or helping people hear you over microphone in-game. If you're getting way more specialized than this however, it's beyond my ability to cover, but you should start with videos likes [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPYt10zrclQ&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=18)to learn more. However, for low frequency (bass) sounds, this won't help, whatsoever. What you need is "proofing". This requires heavy, dense materials (e.g. fiberglass, brick, cement, glass, wood - all should be solid \[not hollow\]). It also helps to create layers (e.g. imagine a room within a room or how double-pane and triple-pane windows have layers), such that you have pockets of air. And, for both sound proofing and deadening, but especially for proofing, you need to remove air gaps. Air gaps can be common in a home (under/around door/windows, through ventilation or A/C system, fireplace, power outlets, etc). For doors and windows, acoustic sealent (e.g. [Green Glue Sealant](https://www.amazon.com/St-Gobain-GGSEALANT-28OZ-Noiseproofing-Sealant/dp/B00MGCRUD0/) \[also get a [cheap smooth rod style caulk gun](https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-3985-Half-Barrel-Caulk/dp/B0013YKMW8/)\]) and weather stripping (e.g. [Frost King Weather Strip Tape](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-1-1-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-White-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R516WH/100119011)) will be the cheapest/effective path forward, but for those wanting to renovate, a solid core door and triple (or at least double) pane window should be your first step. For apartment dwellers, like me, you'll probably forego the bigger renovations. Start with the greenglue, then weather stripping, then (for windows) decide if you need to pay out more to fill-in a window. Fill-in, you say? Some create [DIY window inserts](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPiNN9Vn3uE&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=16), while others purchase the heaviest full-window covers they can find (e.g. [Acoustic Curtain](https://residential-acoustics.com/shop/soundproofing/acousticurtain/) \[to help visualize, here's a similar product's [installation video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyJQjWTLAQM)\]). Whichever path you go, if you're able to shine a line through one end and see it out the other, then you need to try again - sorry. **If anyone has a better solution, whose versed in sound"proofing" physics, I'd love to hear about it!** Ultimately, if your walls are loud, you're going to need to do some remodeling, like shown [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DATpOgogvxE&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=28). And for those trying to make extremely quiet room (e.g. playing instruments in your recording studio), then you'll need to go more in-depth. Here are two very well made descriptive videos: [First](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOIAPBA2pT8&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=7)and [second](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lV5RgcJTRSk&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=25)(not English, but animated video is very demonstrative). Also, for more ideas to soundproof doors, see [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4uIYIQ3w1s&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=26). You can learn the science behind window sound proofing [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AQWcTLy3Xo&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=30), btw (if you've ever wondered how much better triple vs double vs single pane windows are, this will tell you in no uncertain terms). Also, for electrical boxes (e.g. power outlets), it's safer to use fire code rated "acoustic putty pads" (if you can access them from behind the wall).
    
    
26. Speakers: Most people don't know this, but some people get physically sick from a lot of bass. Sadly, I'm one of them (can't ever go to concerts). Speakers, for this reason, become a big question mark. Some terrific stereo speakers most might want to consider would be the [Klipsch R-41PM](https://www.klipsch.com/products/r-41pm-powered-speakers), however. **If anyone knows some minimal bass 2.0 speakers, I'd be quite grateful!** I'm also strongly considering [making my own speakers](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27zBr74NuKU). Otherwise, I plan to use my monitor's built-in speakers for Netflix / Youtube / non-communicative video games.

Needed some more desktop space so I decided to build a new desk (technically a shelf, I know) from a butcher block countertop.

I decided to use an unfinished ash butcher block countertop from Home Depot. 74" x 25" x 1.5"

I sanded it with 220 grit even though it comes out of the packaging with a pretty good finish. I did knock the corners off though.

Finished with 2 coats of Zinsser Sealcoat Universal Sanding Sealer sanding between coats with 220 grit. Then I wiped on 4 coats of 50/50 minreal spirits and a satin finish oil Polyurethane. Followed by brushing on 2 coats of 100% polyurethane. Wiping on the layers was definitely easier and left a nice surface but because this is used as a desk I switched to straight polyurethane for a heavier/more protective layer.

I added 2 Power grommets using a 3-1/8” hole saw and 2 flexible cord grommets Using a 2-3/8” hole saw on each end as well as 2 power strips screwed to the underside. Before I made any holes I mapped out stud/bracket location on the underside to make sure I wouldn’t have any interferences.

For mounting to the wall, I used heavy duty shelf brackets from Rockler fastened to the studs with Spax Lag Screws and fastened the countertop to the brackets with Spax cabinet screws

I am not sure if I need to put another support in the center of the table or not. Any opinions? I am not concerned with the weight necessarily as the brackets are good for 2,920 lbs per Rockler's website. But i am not sure if it will bow overtime if it's not supported.

​

Edit1: Added a center support Bracket: https://imgur.com/gallery/LGl7UT2

Edit2: Picture of working desk. Would love to wall mount the monitor. https://imgur.com/gallery/QfH6M9a

Edit3: I ended up going with a wireless charger grommet that sits pretty flush with the desk surface.

https://imgur.com/KkMJZEp

https://imgur.com/yjPurX6

None of your stated methods is really going to do a good job, and even trying to repair a crack that long is pretty iffy. Nonetheless, the standard go-to for penetrating the area and sealing it with a minimum of extra crap that you have to clean off and polish is a product that never ceases to cause laughter: Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure. It's a maritime product, designed to get in the cracks, seal and weld them and prevent moisture from entering. Be patient and fix it with repeated, minimal applications (from the interior of the cap, if possible). It seems to be the best answer for things like this, and can sometimes fix cracks in section (at least where there isn't pressure that keeps them opening).

Good luck.

Consider sealing the granite with Stonetech's Bulletproof. One of the best sealers I've ever found:

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Pint-473L/dp/B005ZGSS0S

Love your kitchen. It is clean, functional, but not cluttered. Looks like some awesome meals are going to come out of there. Congratulations to you and your family on a job well done.

I just used these fittings for my build. I tried super glue first. Would not recommend it. It cause the collars to become cloudy when the glue dried. And some cloudyness migrated up the tubing too.

I ended up buying this UV glue from amazon as i couldnt find anybody who carried monsoon's branded UV glue.

http://smile.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

This stuff was perfect. Very strong and is holding well. And it cures clear.

Highly recommend the Mohawk Finisher's Choice clear lacquer. Goes on super nice.

Make sure you let your friend's artwork dries really, really thoroughly and apply a few solid layers of de-waxed shellac over it before the lacquer coat (I like the Bulls-Eye SealCoat stuff). If you don't, you risk the paints interacting badly. It might also be good to lay down a coat of shellac before your friend paints to stop their work soaking into the wood.

I'd suggest letting the art dry for at least 2 weeks. Apply a thin layer of the shellac with a soft brush. Let it dry for a few hours. Apply another coat, but french polish this one (so it's super smooth). Let it dry overnight then apply a third coat (also french polish). Let it dry for 24 hours then gently sand it flat with 320 grit. Then wipe it down with a lightly damp cloth (not with denature alcohol, use water), wait 10 mins, then apply another layer with a french polish technique.

After that's dried for 24 hours, start spraying lacquer! This will mean there's a solid, even layer to lay the lacquer down, and several layers between the lacquer and the art.

We use caulk a lot where I work, and we are less than professional with all the caulk jokes.

The best was when I found out one of our standards was super caulk... imagine my joy when I got to start talking about "super caulk" on a conference call with a customer.

Interesting idea! I went on a hunt and this is the coolest thing I've found:

• https://www.flickr.com/photos/seehere/434844917/?rb=1
  
  It's done with a process called plastination:
  
  > The water and fat are replaced by certain plastics, yielding specimens that can be touched, do not smell or decay, and even retain most properties of the original sample.
  
  
  They're been doing this since 1970s so I figure there's probably a guide online. Next logical step was a search for "DIY plastination":
  
  
• http://www.vhlab.umn.edu/atlas/methodologies/preservation/plastination.shtml
  
  I do not have any evidence that the same procedure would work on mushroom flesh, other than the flickr link above.
  
  EDIT:
  
  Per the plastination patent by Gunther von Hagens:
  
  >EXAMPLE 3
  
  >A globular cactus having a diameter of approximately 15 cm was partly hollowed out from its root end by means of a curette, and it was then immersed sequentially for three hours each in 50% aqueous acetone, pure acetone, and dichloromethane. Thereafter it was immersed in a solution of a commercial epoxy resin prepolymer stable at low temperature, but curing at elevated temperature. The vat holding the prepolymer and the immersed cactus was stored in a vacuum at 10° C. for eight hours, whereby all volatile solvent was extracted. When drained of excess prepolymer and held in an oven at 40° C. for six hours, the cactus hardened, but otherwise retained its original appearance and color.
  
  Just curious how much a DIY setup would cost so I made a shopping list:
  
  
• vacuum chamber
  
  
• dichloromethane
  
  
• acetone
  
  
• epoxy resin
  
  
• vacuum pump
  
  
• vacuum safe container to act as dry ice acetone trap
  
  
• dry ice

I don’t know if the product I was looking at is chlorinated rubber, but this is the product:
https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Rubber-Waterproof-Sealant-Coating/dp/B00YYKJDEQ?th=1&psc=1

If I find the crack/hole as fill it with a silicone patch, maybe I wouldn’t even need to seal with liquid rubber?

Is there a particular silicone sealant product you would recommend that is fish/frog safe?

Thanks for your reply!

The foam I used was the first that came to mind when I made it but there's probably an alternative. I wanted something that would fill the center so it was more sturdy and that I could cut and shape. It also had to be light since I'm not all that strong.

The foam that I used isn't really all that bad. Just made sure you wear proper protection (mask, goggles, etc) and have a garage or outdoors to work in.

But if you're a bit concerned still, maybe try this? It's an expanding foam in an aerosol can. But you'd have to make sure you have a tarp out since it sticks to a lot. Once it sets, you can cut at it. I'd make a shield shaped casing and spray the foam into it if I were to use it (kinda like spraying it into a bowl... except shaped like the shield). I honestly don't have much experience with it but I've heard good things about it.

I'm not sure what else would work but I hope this helps! :)

Get bondic. I used to use super glue but discovered Bondic. I confirmed with the company its 100% Salt and Freshwater safe once cured. Takes 4 seconds to cure once the UV is blasted on it. The stuff is amazing.

http://www.amazon.com/Bondic-24016-Plastic-Starter-Anything/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451457479&sr=8-1&keywords=bondic

Just read the tube. It's Plexus MA310, which is methylacrylate. It's really expensive, but DAMN is it strong.

https://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Off-White-Two-Part-Accelerator-Methacrylate/dp/B007468O56

The cartridges last a lot longer if kept refrigerated and the easiest way to use it correctly is to squirt it into a ziploc bag, close the bag, zip-tie off the portion with the adhesive in it, then mix the two in the bag for 2 minutes until it gets warm, then use a razor blade to cut a hole in the bag so you can dispense from it.

After you've applied enough adhesive you set the bag aside and use it as a gauge to tell when the adhesive has finished curing.

I've used it to glue aluminum to stainless steel. Delrin to Stainless Steel, PVC to PVC (mostly as a gap filler), and other joints where welding or other adhesives might not bond well.

If I want to joint two shells together I usually make a patch plate of some kind to do the structural work. A little piece of polycarbonate or aluminum and a few screws works great. But to fill in around the seam you want something like this adhesive or an epoxy putty so you can sand the joint back down later.

I would assume the radiator kits would be toxic.
Other info would be
Why cant you find a leak in something that is 1/2 inch big.
Needing it to be non toxic would be helpful
What is the pipe to maybe replacement is your best case
Googling "non toxic liquid pipe fixer" came back with this https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Activated-Waterproof-Resistant-Anything/dp/B00QU5M4MG
Good luck

Serious upvote for /u/socaTsocaTsocaT's suggestion to use StoneTech's Bulletproof. It is an awesome sealer. Follow the directions, and it does an excellent job of keeping your granite looking good for many years.

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Pint-473L/dp/B005ZGSS0S

This is some of the best you can get. I've heard a ton of great things, and I've never had any issues with it.

I sealed it with the Black Diamond Color Enhancing Sealer but I'm not sure it adds anything. (https://www.amazon.com/Enhancer-Travertine-Limestone-Honed-Granite-Concrete/dp/B01GQX4XWA/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504986411&sr=1-11-spons&keywords=stone+sealer+strengthen&psc=1)

Is there anything better I can seal it with that might help? I just had it installed so there isn't much I can do in terms of not installing it in the first place.

Welcome to the world of home ownership.

You are correct about slate. It does not do well in wet, freezing environments.

Your chosen sealer is water resistant, but I think you may need a more industrial solution. Take a look at this product:

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-Exterior-Sealer-Masonry-1-Quart/dp/B00065W8GS

I think it would be better for this particular application.

I'm not an expert in school buses, but in cars and trucks the factory uses seam sealer like this- product below. Its probably very strong, unless its in your way I would leave it or add to it.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08505-Sealer-Cartridge-ounces/dp/B000PEWDKG?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000PEWDKG

Miracle 511 Seal & Enhancer 1 Qrt. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NFQNT4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EXW3CbHYNXTKJ

It’s not super cheap but a small bottle goes a long way. I use it on all of my alabaster pieces and have been really happy with the result.

Oh no! lol if the super glue isn’t enough you could use liquid plastic. Its a clear gel that hardens with UV light. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Uwg7CbBCY51YC

/u/zodd06 mentioned bondic which I really hope I never need but that looks like a future solution.

Bondic - Liquid Plastic Welder - LED UV Light Activated Bonding Tool - Waterproof And Heat Resistant - Starter Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LyiADbXCCZXJ4
Something along these lines seems like it would work great for on the fly repairs. Im gonna take my fathers advice and just buy one for myself for the future!

Tough decision, because ever single surface that you can find will have it's pros and cons.

Granite will be awesome, if you take the time to seal it with a durable product. Stone is porous, and some of the drinks are acidic. You don't want to stain your new counter top.

I like StoneTech's Bulletproof, myself:

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Quart-946L/dp/B00065W8G8

Oh! It's magic. Spray in whatever weird shape you want, let it expand into a shoggothian mass of foam, then carve into shape. Great for oddly shaped props that really need to be lightweight.

I believe I used Kamui's tutorials for this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O23TM-z0OXk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDDo83M68Kk

And the particular brand I used was this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/GREAT-STUFF-Filler-Insulating-Sealant/dp/B0002YW0W0/ Had to use two cans for the bow.

I'm not sure if its cheapest but Tuff Duck was highly recommended to us and we use it on our concrete skim coat kitchen counters. It does slightly darken and gloss the finish but you can also water it down and do a 3 coat approach for a matt finish. We're about due for a reseal after 12 months of use. Its really easy to apply.

Ive used this a couple times: Bondic

Its a type of glue that cures using the UV light from an led. They got a few of them at my workplace and they seem pretty useful.

Edit: Just read the description, apparently its not a glue but a plastic that remains liquid till you cure it with UV light and has quite good bonding capabilities. The reviews are hit and miss so maybe it depends a lot on the bonding surfaces.

Don't assume anything is sealed. With most builders every element of the house goes to the lowest bidder. Conduct yourself accordingly!

Do it yourself, it is a very easy DIY task. Take particular care in high stress areas, like kitchen counters and wet areas like shower or tub enclosures.

My counter installer advised using this: http://www.amazon.com/Dupont-Stonetech-Professional-BulletProof-1-Quart/dp/B00065W8G8

So I did.

UV Light Glue is perfect for fixing glass. I have used it on 2 bong bowls that I broke at the stem and a steamroller I split in two. One pen will last for a while and they are only 20$

http://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG

Edit: My dad owned a window and glass repair shop, we used pens like this all the time to fix small chips in stained glass. It dries clear (it can be lumpy though if you use too much) and will not break from high heat.

I'm a big fan of wax free shellac mixed 1:1 with denatured alcohol. It's idiot proof (that's why I'm a fan). I couldn't find the right type of shellac at the big box stores, so ordered it off Amazon.

shellac

Apply it with an old t-shirt. When you cut it, it's so thin that it dries super fast. Can build up 4 or 5 coats in 30 minutes or so.

You could try some weatherstrip seal?

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Brand-284426-Adhesive-Weatherstrip/dp/B0025KUSX2

Or you could try some great stuff foam, it has a "straw", might be able to angle in space?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YW0W0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Yup. Expanding spray foam. That stuff is awesome. Unsure about brand, but looks like Great Stuff Expanding Spray Foam

I swear by StoneTech's Bulletproof. Best sealer on the market, in my humble opinion:

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Pint-473L/dp/B005ZGSS0S

Yeah, I was looking at this:

https://www.amazon.com/St-Gobain-GGSEALANT-28OZ-Noiseproofing-Sealant/dp/B00MGCRUD0

It is definitely more expensive than caulk...

Nah. You need something to go in the hole and seal it from the inside.

Great Stuff 157906 Insulating Foam Sealant, 12 oz, Cream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YW0W0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fLx2DbHDZKH41

If there is significant rot you should look into replacing the compromised sections. To plug holes I have found "GREAT STUFF" works pretty well depending on the size of hole. They sell it at nearly any home improvement store and even Amazon

If the problem is only around the screws, your only real solution would be to replace the bad screws. Again, if you don't feel comfortable getting on the roof because of structural problems it may be time to replace the rotted sections.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG

Here's a (supposedly) better one on Amazon.

Bondic Laser BONDING TECH SK001 Liquid Plastic Welder Complete Starter Kit, 4-Gram, 4g https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MR7J5ZX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xPS0CbWZEKEJY

I’ve used it for many kids toy repairs, very strong.

If I use stain, I'd usually give it a thin coat of shellac before I start poly. If it's an oil based stain, it can get swirled around a bit from the poly (whatever solvent you use). A coat of shellac seals it in, and the poly has no problem adhering to it. A 1-2 lb cut of clear, dewaxed shellac works great. If you don't want to mix your own, this is one you can buy. You can wipe on the shellac. It dries quickly; 30 min. or so. Give a light sanding to knock off any nibs (400 grit), clean off the dust, and poly as usual.

I’ve fixed my own a couple of times, but I’m no expert. Use something like this, your local hardware store should carry something comparable. There are videos on YouTube as well. However, eventually you will have to replace the tub. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006ZHVLYG/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T4QCK207EX5PNZTT373M&dpPl=1&dpID=81rP39r9QOL

It's a tung oil varnish mix, so it pops the grain and builds pretty fast. You can apply it over stain if you want, but I'd see how the maple pops with tun before deciding to stain.

As mentioned, it's pricey (like $30/quart https://www.amazon.com/Title-Waterlox-Original-Sealer-Finish/dp/B009LKWLJI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=waterlox&qid=1571064212&sr=8-5) but near bulletproof once you're done. As it's designed to react to itself, there's no 'sand between coats' required or anything else required, which makes it faster to apply.

https://www.waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=9eff2fa9-c7bc-4cf4-972a-5d19faccfbc8

The only hiccup I've had is that it skins over quick if you don't use bloxygen or the like to keep the air out of the can.

Are you able to remedy this situation at all?

Spray Insulation Foam works well.

Are your windows taped up?

Foam strip insulation around your doors and windows?

Bondic! Wish I could get some on my store.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG

I'm sorry, wax free Shellac.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Zinsser-854-Sealcoat-Universal/dp/B000C02BXW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525884218&sr=8-3&keywords=dewaxed+shellac

We have had GSD's for the past 20+ years. This is likely our last one. He HATES the nail gun. He isn't very crazy about the garage in general but will sometimes hang out with me or will run in, steal some wood and lay in the driveway making toothpicks.

The Beast:
https://i.imgur.com/2G3YMGh.jpg

I have a Friend/co-worker with a Great Dane and they let her sleep in the bed. I don't know how they do it. He has told me stories of her stretching and pushes him straight off the bed onto the floor.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-BONDING-SK001-Plastic-Complete/dp/B01MR7J5ZX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=uv+bondic&qid=1562000740&s=gateway&sr=8-5

How long since the paint was put on there? If it's had time to cure, give it a cleaning and a light scuffing. Then put a clear polyurethane over it.

If it's, say, an older piece and you want to preserve the "patina", use shellac as a barrier coat, then put the poly over that.

Or you could go buck wild and hose it down if you wanted.

I looked up Waterlox after your suggestion. For anyone interested here is a link to it.
And another link for anyone buying it (not an affiliate link).

you need something denser to absorb vibration noise, they sell a special glue you put between drywall that absorbs more vibration

edit: found it

https://www.amazon.com/St-Gobain-GGSEALANT-28OZ-Noiseproofing-Sealant/dp/B00MGCRUD0/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M5E7D0H8T4X22FHQX2PD

Thanks for the info. Let me know what concrete sealer you end up going for lol. This product on Amazon seems to have good reviews but I'm a touch hesitant to get it.

That will be a problem. As others said, best solution is to replace the switch, but that will require opening up the KB, desolder the existing switch, and solder the new one in.

Temporary solution would be needle-nose plier and pull out the stem's remainder, then super-glue the stem back, reinforce with Bondic plastic welder from the outside (a little ring around the break)

This is a weakness of the floating design keyboards... not much protection from lateral forces, eps. in the corners. If you use a carrying case, think about adding some reinforcement in the bottom. Cardboard would do. If you want to go fancy I think Elite keyboards have "Keyboard tent" hard shells for sale.

I've seen a vid on facebook where a guy repaired a leg with bondic. I bought some but have not used it yet.

This is what I use. It's basically just de-waxed shellac. This stuff is alcohol based and has a dry time of about 10 minutes. I will brush it on with a foam brush, wait till dry and then give it a light rub with 320 just to knock down any high spots or dust.

I use wipe-on poly more often than brush on. I have never used water-based though, so I can't speak to how that works. Regular wipe on poly is essentially polyurethane diluted with mineral spirits to get it to a wipe-able consistency. It goes on much thinner than the brush on stuff, but goes on much more even in my opinion and drys much faster. You can re-coat in 2-3 hours. You will need to apply many more coats when compared to brush on, I find it takes about 3-4 coats of wipe on to equal 1 coat of brush on, but you don't get drips or runs or brush marks in your finish so it's worth it to me.

Try https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_K6pSCbWV0EQPN

I can't find a replacement piece anywhere online.

I would suggest hot-gluing it in place or using some UV curable additive plastic welding to build that area back up, then a small drill bit to reform the screwhole.

It's a brand of Tung oil finish.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009LKWLJI/

They sell repair kits (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Porc-Porcelain-Repair-Kohler-Biscuit/dp/B00LS5K7AY or https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-244166-Specialty-Touch-White/dp/B006ZHVLYG/ref=pd_sim_60_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006ZHVLYG&pd_rd_r=08E38YVSAAXXTRJ5BKWZ&pd_rd_w=QorLu&pd_rd_wg=RMece&psc=1&refRID=08E38YVSAAXXTRJ5BKWZ) but I don't have any first-hand knowledge of their efficacy.

I've actually come to use Bondic UV plastic welder 😜

https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Activated-Waterproof-Resistant-Anything/dp/B00QU5M4MG

Bondic is mental stuff!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bondic-Purpose-Instant-Stronger-Adhesive-Starter/dp/B00QU5M4MG/

Probably not. Check a local paint store, sometimes they stock wood finishes, else Woodcraft/Rockler if there is one near you or online.

What do you think if this?

https://www.amazon.com/Countertop-Epoxy-Resistant-Resin-Quarts/dp/B00BJORLEE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518473250&sr=8-4&keywords=uv+resistant+resin

Get some of this stuff - expanding foam - should be able to pick it up at any hardware store. It's basically Styrofoam in a can and has a flexible nozzle - you should be able to squirt it into the holes in the locker, filling it with a foam that will rapidly harden, ruining anything inside and making it very hard to open.

It's more of a joke than it ever was, rap music I mean. Some of the "classic rap" wasn't actually bad, but this new "gangsta rap" crap makes me want to spray Great Stuff in my ears.

i would recommend getting a can of this or something similar. Drill a tiny hole in the wall, and empty the bottle in the wall near the pipe, it expands and might give you enough insulation in there to keep it from freezing and without opening the wall up. If the wall is white get some of this and just wipe it over the hole you made, or if its in a not so noticeable place, fuck it and leave it or get some similar looking paint and cover it. This is all a last resort attempt before opening the wall and insulating it yourself, no guarantees this will work at all.