(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best headphone amps

This will be my second time typing this out, since I hit the fucking Browser-Back shortcut on my mouse.

I wouldn't recommend the Koss Plugs as a set of mixing phones, even while travelling. The clarity is simply nonexistant. My suggestion is just to use them as a second pair to check out your bassline before you finalize a track. For something more balanced, you might want to set aside an hour or two and drag your eyeballs over this thread over at head-fi.

As an off-the-cuff recommendation, Velodyne vPulse have gained quite a reputation in the under-$150 category. they have plenty of bass output, but it's much tighter than the Koss, no muddiness. They also get plenty of compliments on the detail in the midrange/treble.

/r/Audiophile is a great resource, as is /r/Headphones, but to save yourself from shame, I will tell you ahead of time, anything called a soundcard will almost certainly get you laughed out.

Puts on top hat and monocle, raising a cup of tea with the pinky out

>A gentleman uses a DAC with a seperate Headphone Amplifier.

In all fairness a soundcard is nothing but a DAC with a built-on amp, though the integrated amp circuits are terrible, in terms of audio reproduction.

You can get a DAC and feed an amp with it, or you can get a DAC/Amp combo, which is a popular place to begin, and is a great solution for a personal digital studio, especially if you use your laptop as a creative device away from home. The most recommended (for good reason) is the FiiO e7. It performes both the DAC and amplifier functions, as well as including an input jack and a battery so you can stick it in your pocket and connect it to your ipod/phone/whatever and increase the quality of your portable listening as well (This bypasses the DAC and only uses the amp). The only drawback to the e7 is that the amp is kind of puny. Mind you it is still more powerful than whatever is built into your devices, but it can leave you wanting if you have some high-end, high-impedance headphones. To solve that, you can either get a FiiO e9 amplifier to leave on your desk and dock the e7 to when you are at home, or you can pick up a FiiO e17 which is almost identical to the e7, but with more juice to the amp. You mentioned a speaker setup at home, so you would also want a FiiO l7 line out plug so you could run the un-amped output of the DAC to your speakers. Keep in mind, none of this passes as "Audiophile grade" hardware, but it's certainly (digital) studio quality.

All in all, an e7 and a pair of vPulse IEMs would set you back about $150, give you the low-end you need, a full-up system you could pack in your pocket while you're on the move, and also boost the quality of your 8400's, and whatever monitors you choose at home.

I'll get off my soapbox now. Hopefully that gives you a head start on your research.

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^tiny ^disclaimer: I don't work for FiiO, I'm not trying to sell you FiiO stuff, I don't even use FiiO myself. They just have a great reputation, and market at a reasonable price-range.

>Recommending A2+ instead of LSR-305 doesn't add up

You're right, but you initially pitted the LSR-305 against the A5+. I'd still push the JBLs with something like an NAD D1050. Why pay for XLR otherwise?

>that's why the SMSL amp is part of the recommended system

The SMSL is inexpensive, but again, that's its only advantage. You could easily step up from a $70 SMSL amp with a $70 SMSL DAC to something like a Topping TP32EX ($139) (which, like everything worthwhile in its price range, is exactly what I said it would be – 2x or 3x the SMSL).

>Good DACs can be found for cheap (<$30)

No. Any DAC worth hearing will run you way more.

An SMSL amp + SMSL DAC + cheap bookshelfs is essentially like buying A2+. I'm not trying to pick a hill to die on here but I don't see any advantage of going that route unless, like I said in my first post, you're prepared to actually shell out some coin.

>More power doesn't mean better sound.

True. That was just one of several differences I listed between your suggestion and mine. But since you mention it:

• A2+ – THD+N<0.05%@1wpc@10Ω
  
  
• A5+ – THD+N<0.05%@1wpc@10Ω
  
  
• Micca MB42X doesn't say in their manual, and I can't find info about them
  
  
• JBL LS-305 – THD+N=0.5%@1wpc@10Ω (confirmed through independent testing, not even JBL's manual)
  
  So you're looking at less noise and distortion with Audioengine in both cases. Micca and JBL would tell you if it was worth mentioning.
  
  >I'm not just comparing price. The MB42 and LSR-305 measure better for less than the A2+. They are the recommended systems for good reason.
  
  Yes you are, no they don't, and you're forgetting about a DAC. Again.
  
  /u/Warm_Dripper said, "I'm just looking for a simple speaker system," which the A2+ fulfills handsomely.
  
  Not knocking your suggestions by any means. Those Micca sound good and the JBL are fantastic, but why go there when you can get everything you would reasonably want built into one unit?
  
  EDIT: And another thing.
  
  >They are the recommended systems for good reason.
  
  You will notice the almost begrudging preamble, "here is absolutely cheapest system we are willing to recommend."
  
  They are the recommended cheap systems.
  
  Not the best. Not the simplest. Cheapest.
  
  Spend your money where you spend your time.

> I had read the Audio-Technica were either USB or XLR input. Does the USB effect the XLR or is it still just not as good? The mics you posted look great but will add about $240 in the mic department for the three of us. Granted, if that's what we have to do I think we would be good with the investment.


I'll clarify a little on the USB / XLR mic point. With any device, especially one that's low-cost (and a $50 mic really is a very low-cost mic), the manufacturer has a finite budget to put towards each feature or component within it. If we say that that $50 mic has $25 worth of components, the distribution of that is maybe around $10 for the housing and connectors, $10 for the parts necessary to give it a USB audio output, and then maybe $5 for the actual microphone, and the parts necessary to make it work. That's going to give you a poor quality USB audio output (iirc, it's only 16bit 44.1KHz, which is fine for a mastered output format, but very poor for a working format), and a poor microphone. Get a mic which doesn't have USB output however, and that $10 worth of USB audio circuitry can be put into the mic, giving you far better sound quality.

> I am not sure how I planned on hooking them up, that's a good question. Would I use a headphone amplifier for that?

Yep. Something like this would do the trick.

> Hmm, that is an interesting solution. I do have an older laptop that has Win 7, not sure on the CPU, though. Most of my experience has been with video editing and rendering, so I guess I assumed that audio would be more demanding like that. Is that not he case?

Audio is very easy on the CPU. If the system can support Win7, it'll have no problem capturing three channels of 24bit 44.1KHz audio. Applying effects in post (noise gates, EQ, compression, etc) will increase the CPU load, but anything built within the last ten years should be able to handle it without breaking a sweat. The worst case scenario is that your old laptop will struggle to process the effects on all three tracks in realtime, but if that's the case, there are ways to economize, such as by freezing tracks, or using more efficient (or less convoluted) effect plugins.

> Is there a 4 mic audio interface you would recommend?

None I'm familiar with, I'm afraid. However, my experience with my Focusrite Saffire Pro 24 would push me toward Forusrite's Scarlet 18i8, although I appreciate that one might be a little above your budget. Presonus' Audiobox 44VSL might be a bit more budget-friendly.


And yep, glad it helps. And please do send me a link to your podcast when the first one's ready. They really do make the working day go by so much better.

If you want portability, the the Cyrus Soundkey or Audioquest Dragonfly red are your options. I use the Soundkey, and it's brilliant. The soundstage and clarity is vastly improved. Then again my daily drivers are the Audio-Technica ATH M40X. For a DAC + amp, then the Teac AI-101DA. It's a bit pricy, but however it's a good DAC amp. I don't have it, but I have heard mostly positive reviews on it, also Zeos, our legend, has reviewed it himself. If you are on a tight budget, well the FiiO - E10K Olympus, has got you covered. It's a really good amp+DAC for the money. A lot of positive reviews. If you are gaming, the Senhiser GSX 1000 is there. What I she said in here are the best in each section.

Links:

Cyrus Soundkey: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B073RFVHVY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720112&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cyrus+soundkey

Audioquest Dragonfly red: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DFMV4NQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720178&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cyrus+soundkey&dpPl=1&dpID=41JaKxrUrfL&ref=plSrch

Senhiser GSX 1000: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LDTP484/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720216&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gsx+100&dpPl=1&dpID=41ermQbCqAL&ref=plSrch

Teac AI-101DA: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UGYFWQC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720282&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=teac+ai-101da&dpPl=1&dpID=41dClv7EX-L&ref=plSrch

FiiO E10K Olympus: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LP3AMC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720327&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fiio+e10k&dpPl=1&dpID=41Taa5DTsKL&ref=plSrch

By the way. If you want, buy a fucking pair of Audio-Technica ATH M40X: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HVLUR54/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720404&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=audio+technica&dpPl=1&dpID=41gFqXe5oBL&ref=plSrch

Zeos found the M40X'S brilliant.

I hope I helped you out, if you have any queries, reply to this comment. Good luck in finding what you want.

honestly an external dac/amp would be better than a soundcard, but if you arent willing to spend 100-200 extra for the dac/amp it would be better to go with headphones such as the sennheiser hd558/598 or ath m50x (I think the beyerdynamic dt770 also had a 32 ohm variant), as they dont require as much power.

If you however dont have a problem with the added price I would recommend the obective2+dac or the schiit magni and modi. THe fiio e12 and e18 are also good if you want portable amplifiers.There are cheaper alternatives out there, but they arent as good. There are also more expensive dac/amps out there, but then its usually double the price for a few percent better quality, so I dont think its worth it

But If you really want a soundcard instead of external dac/amps I have heard good things about the asus xonar essence stx, and they should be good as long as the headphones arent 600ohm (they might work great for 600 ohm headphones too, but I havent really checked). If you choose to go the soundcard route it might be good if you check for other alternatives too, as I havent paid much attention to them. A good way would be googling something like ¨what soundcard for x headphones¨

I'm looking for a comfortable set of headphones I can wear all day, that accurately and cleanly reproduce sound.

Budget - Theoretically unlimited, but I'm usually happy enough in the low-mid range.

Source - HiFiMAN EF2A

Requirements for Isolation - These will be used at work to drown out the noise of the mechanical keyboards my new coworkers use.

Preferred Type of Headphone - Over the ear

Preferred tonal balance - Studio monitors, I want accurate sound reproduction.

Past headphones - For years I used a pair of Sennheiser PXC-350's for travel and occasional office use. I love the sound but they are too tight on my head to wear comfortably for hours.

In the last few weeks I've tried out 3 different pairs:

• Sennheiser Momentum - I think these sounded good, but despite being sold as "over the ear" on me they were definitely "on ear". I returned them.
  
• Sony MDRV6 - I love how these sound. They're crisp and clear and everything sounds wonderful on them. The only problem is that they aren't quite big enough to fit over my ears comfortably. After an hour I have to take them off for at least 20 minutes.
  
• Sony MDR1R - These sound muddy compared to the MDRV6's, but they're so much more comfortable.
  
  Preferred Music - Vocal/R&B, Rock, Classical and occasionally Jazz. The first things I listened to when I got the two Sony headphones were Amy Winehouse, a Dvorak concerto, Pink Floyd and Joe Satriani.

Hey, just thought I'd give you an update since you helped me so much. I'm currently in the middle of saving up to buy furniture and stuff for my new home (because I'm done living the squatters college life), so I'm a bit tight on budget. I still 100% plan on buying the LCD2C in a month or 2 after my saving is done, but I decided to go out on a limb and buy an amp to kind of get a baseline of how much better it makes the quality and I wanted an amp that would serve me for multiple headphones for a while until I could save up for better equipment. Also wanted a good baseline and not drop too much when I didn't know what i was doing.

​

So, I did some research and found this little guy for $90.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QKSVI/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

​

It came in the mail today and I've been grooving to the beat the whole day. What I noticed before is still true now, but the amp really brought my headphones alive more than they even had been before. And for a pretty cheap price, I think it's a good baseline (even though I don't know what a good baseline is because this is my first amp) I still wanted to thank you again!


You've helped a lot! And I'm excited to get my new LCD2C and hear the difference with those and the HD650's!

1. What is your budget?
   
   
2. 4K is still being worked on and improved. What you're describing is almost impossible and super expensive.
   
   
3. Don't do SLI. People have a lot of problems and they don't always work with all games anyway. Stick with one good GPU, like a 1070.
   
   
4. There's really no need for a Titan X unless you're a professional videographer or graphics editor. That's beyond overkill. A 1070 is more than enough for any gamer today.
   
   
5. You went overkill on some parts but only listed 16 GB of RAM. You should go with 32.
   
   
6. You didn't include your audio options like a DAC, amp, or speakers, and could have listed a better headset. I have the Sennheiser PC 363D (Amazon link) for gaming and watching TV/movies, and it's awesome. For listening to music, I use Sennheiser HD 598 SE (Amazon link). For your PC audio, you want good speakers. Check out the JBL LSR305 (Amazon link). You want a decent DAC, so check out the Schiit Modi 2 or Modi 2 Uber (Amazon link for Modi 2) (Amazon link for Modi 2 Uber). You could even get the Schiit Bifrost. Depending on what headphones you get, you might also want an amp like the Schiit Magni 2. Many people call it a Schiit-stack when you have both a Schiit DAC and amp together, usually the Modi 2 and Magni 2. You could also check out the new combo DAC/amp, Schiit Jotunheim. I found some great deals on eBay and paid about half the retail price for a Schiit Bifrost Uber DAC. Some other options are: JDSLABS Objective2 + ODAC Combo, Cambridge Audio DacMagic XS v2, Micca OriGen+, Fiio E17K, AudioQuest DragonFly, and Audioengine D1. Some great people helped me learn about audio from /r/BudgetAudiophile /r/audiophile /r/Audio.
   
   
7. Make the list with PC Part Picker Australia so it's easier for everyone to see.

All right guys, I just had to take a picture of the two speakers together because, as you can see, compared to the diminutive MK402 the Elacs are simply HUGE. I kept the mouse in the pic to give you an idea (sorry, I checked, I had no bananas!).

Their size is something you should be aware of, especially if you are going to keep em -like me- as monitors on a desk.

A little background on my system: I use mainly Tidal hi-res streaming as source. The PC is hooked via USB to an external dac, an AUNE X1S, line out of the DAC goes into a Dayton DTA-120 (the real hero of this story, spoilers!!!) that powers the speakers.

Right out of the box, I position the Elacs on the desk (on foam absorbers for studio monitors, you might notice em under the elacs in the pic), hook em up, and Im shocked. They sound exactly like the MK402... wtf?

Well the first lesson is, guys, believe in break-in. I had the same thing happening with the MK402. They sounded a bit crappy and harsh at first, but sloooooooooooowly the sound mellowed and became fuller. Fact is it happened so progressively I always had the doubt it was my ear/brain adjusting to their sound more than break-in.

This time around, though, it happened in a matter of just an hour and possibly less. Something definitely "loosened up" inside the ELACS, and oh boy... the poor daytons were blown out of the water.

First thing you will notice is the obvious one. The Elacs will go lower... and DEEPER. Please be aware that the MK402 go crazy low for their size. You can easily be shocked at the bass they can "magically" let out... but it definitely lacks that punch and that fullness that the ELACS will provide with an easiness that is honestly disarming. One of their strong points is that they sound (and they will go LOUD!) like they dont even care. You crank the volume and they just shrug and give you volume and power, never losing their composture, whereas the MK402 will totally break down and will start showing signs of ...suffering?

Second thing you'll notice is... despite their BIG size, they are muuuuuuuch easier to position. The Mk402 are extremely, extremely fussy. Push them one inch too close to the rear wall, the bass goes so muddy you wanna kill yourself, pull em one inch too far and the bass becomes anemic and the "magic" disappears. I guess Mr Andrew Jones did the right thing putting the reflex on the baffle instead of the more typical rear exhaust. But it doesnt end there. the biggest difference is the dispersion. The MK402 CAN sound awesome and "flat" but you must almost lock your head in a very precise and narrow position. Move sideways or a little back and forth and some frequencies will overwhelm others. with the Elacs... well, I'm flabbergasted. You can almost move around the room and you'll hear the frequencies pretty much the same way in every position.

Obviously the Elacs -I suspect for the same reason: dispersion- will give a much better holographic presentation, but Im still working on the placement and my room is really fussy so maybe I'll update you guys later when I finally manage to make the speakers "disappear", which was something simply impossible to achieve with the Daytons (believe me... I tried).

Third thing you'll notice (as they keep breaking in, becoming more and more transparent) is how comparatively analitic they are. Listening to Steely Dan's "I got the news" the infamous scratching/clicking around 2:17 made me jump on the seat, I litterally thought something was faulty and breaking!

After a while, though, the biggest and most shocking realization is how nonchalantly the little class-D amplifier from Dayton is driving the Elacs. The speakers are quite efficient, yes, but I was ALMOST sure I would need a better amplifier (my eyes are on the NAD326BEE, always been a big fan of NAD sound), but Im not so sure anymore. Volume knob is at hour ten/eleven (it will go as far as hour five) and the room is filled with a smooth, relaxed, full sound. Maybe the NAD can wait!

Okay, I'll shut up for now. I'll leave here a few links with all the aforementioned gear for reference, especially price-wise.

Aune DAC

Dayton D-Class Amp

Dayton MK402

Elac B6.2


*edited endless times for clarity and cause I do thousands of typos.

I've had a Jensen turntable for about 2 years now, and they're really not as bad as people here describe them. People here make it seem like it's the equivalent of putting a drill through your records, when in reality it's just a slightly heavier tracking force.

As /u/vwestlife said, most record players from the '60s and '70s tracked just as hard and they sound fine.

And yeah, the turntable is $40. It's bound to sound pretty bad, but with decent speakers and a second preamp you can get OK sound out of one of these. (/u/vwestlife goes into more details of the cart and how to make your cheap table sound a little better here.) The cheap cart and the preamp that comes on one of these makes things sound pretty tinny, even after installing a replacement stylus. I picked one of these up on Amazon about a year ago for $30 and it's brought back a lot of the bass that gets removed when using such a cheap table.

Also I made a post here a while back that showed how I could lighten the tracking force a little bit on these tables if you ever wanted to but I removed it because it wasn't very scientific and this is /r/vinyl. Basically I taped a penny and a dime on top of each-other and taped them off the back edge of the tonearm opposite of the needle. It's definitely lighter (I have a pretty floppy record that used to "sag" a lot more when played without my adjustments).

Welp, sorry if this came off a little salty haha. Also, this isn't formatted great because I'm kinda in a hurry, but if you want pictures let me know! :)

EDIT: I am dumb I just saw you wanted closed back.

​

open back or closed back? Open back is better for gaming but others will be able to hear what you hear. If it doesn't matter then open back for gaming.

OPEN Headphones:

ATH-AD700X - ~95 - 100 new https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-AD700X-Audiophile-Open-Air-Headphones/dp/B009S332TQ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ATH-AD700x&qid=1563901733&s=gateway&sr=8-2

ATH-AD900x - ~135 new https://www.amazon.com/Technica-ATH-AD900X-Open-Back-Audiophile-Headphones/dp/B009S331VU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ATH-AD700x&qid=1563901733&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

HE4XX - $180 new https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-hifiman-he4xx-planar-magnetic-headphones

​

Sennheiser HD 58X - 160 new - https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-sennheiser-hd-58x-jubilee-headphones

​

Closed headphones:

ATH m40x - $100 new https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ATH+m40x&qid=1563902298&s=gateway&sr=8-3

These are deemed better than the m50x's

​

DT770 80 ohm - 135 new https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-770-PRO-Studio-Headphone/dp/B0016MNAAI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=DT770+80+ohm&qid=1563902448&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

ATH-MSR7 - 175 new https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-MSR7BK-SonicPro-High-Resolution-Headphones/dp/B00PEUBIKM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ATH%2Bmsr7&qid=1563902327&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

I owned these and played CSGO and I had no issues hearing anyone. I made it to LEM (if that matters to you) Very clear audio. I also never used an amp with these so they can only get better. if you have more questions on these just message me, I can compare them to the HE4xx's as I now own those.

​

AMP & Dac:

FX Audio DAC X6 - ~54.99 new https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=FX+Audio+DAC+X6&qid=1563901865&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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Schiit Fulla 2 - ~120 new https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Fulla-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B07KWG13Q4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Schiit+Fulla+2&qid=1563902076&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Basically I am no expert as I am just getting into the DAC/AMP world but from my research and this subreddits wiki and other sources, it seems better to put your money into better headphones and then into a better DAC/AMP. I would look for a used pair of headphones from

/r/AVexchange or /r/hardwareswap if you are wanting something better, I picked up a pair of HE4xx for 110 shipped.

​

Just my two cents. I could be wrong and anyone please feel free to correct me as I am still learning all this.

So looking at your area I see a few options, but none strike me as a great deal. However, based on your location this may be normal. I attempted to check the price of shipping from various ID sellers and shops and it seems shipping will be $100-$200 which isn't ideal as it really hurts your buying power.

You can attempt yourself to see what the shipping is. I tried Chane's bookshelves, HTD's level three, Audio Advisor, and Accessories for less.

The only retailer that I could find that was reasonable shipping was of course Amazon. So here are my suggestions:

Local speakers to try:

B&W DM601

Paradigm Mini Monitor V6

If looking new:

Monitor Audio B1

I think the Paradigm or MA should be the preferred routes. The DM601 isn't really worth it unless it's at least a S2, if original it may be worth around $150-200. Still, nothing hurts trying to negotiate a better price on the used ones - you'll need it on the electronics side.

Your biggest problem is finding power and cheap. If you could even find a budget Onkyo locally you will likely be ahead as shipping hurts. Otherwise you'll looking at something like a T-Amp/DAC combo from amazon or paying ~$160 shipped to get something like this rebadged Amp 100 which doesn't include the DAC. If your laptop has a mini-toslink there's a Fiio DAC on Amazon for ~$20 that would work - while it isn't USB equipped it does allow you to move it around later one being toslink/spdif. So this amplifier, the B&W speakers, and the DAC could fit in your $500 though I think the speakers are overpriced. If you could get the Paradigms for $300 the APA 100, Fiio, and them would likely be up your alley.

For all intents and purposes you could get the Monitor's and this amp shipped for around $500 or get a slightly more powerful T-Amp like this and one of the used pairs, but I'm hesitant to recommend chi-fi T-amps considering that shipping is so expensive that return shipping for repairs/returns could really hurt.

If none of these solutions float your boat, the LSR305 in the OP and a DAC could still work as well and would fit in your budget rather easily.

I'd go with the M50x if 200 is yr limit. They sound marginally better, but the removable cable is a godsend. You won't regret going with the upgrade. The one thing to keep in mind is that to fully experience the power of these phones, you're going to want to use a headphone amp. Luckily there is a great deal on amazon that includes a Fiio E6 for the same price. The E6 certainly isn't the greatest amp out there, but it is small, has good battery life, and if you are coming from Bose, this will blow yr mind.
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00JZRXWRW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418958023&sr=8-2&keywords=ath-m50x

At $200 you don't have a lot of options for Spotify capable DAPs as you surmised. An AMP/DAC would probably be the way to go if you're looking to put a little more juice into your current IEMs. FiiO is definitely well regarded in the price range you are looking at. I think the next best portable amp I see recommended regularly is the Oppo ha-2 at around $300 new. Like I said, I had buzzing with the my E18, but /u/AV3Nguyen didn't. I've seen others [claim to have this issue](https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/5386ko/fiio_e18k_gsm_interference/ too, suggesting that it has to do with GSM networks, so it might not matter to you either way. Otherwise the E17K is a perfectly fine option. You'd even have the option to upgrade to the docking unit if you wanted. Your mileage may vary with all of this, of course, since a lot of IEMs aren't very power hungry. You might not notice much more than a bump in your potential volume, but it will future proof you should you want to pick up something that needs a bit more oomph.

The third option would be to put the money towards a slightly better phone with the features you want, unless there's a reason you'd prefer to have your music on a separate unit. The LG v10 and v20(not yet out) have good DAC/Amps, so those might be options if your carrier allows, though I don't know how much you were going to spend on the phone.

• Budget - Around 200 bucks Canadian ( Maybe a little more)
  
• Source - My desktop and my Fiio E17K
  
• Isolation - None needed, less isolation is a bonus because I want to be able to hear others, but it doesn't matter that much.
  
• Public? No, purely for home use.
  
• Preferred type I prefer over-ear, but am open minded for on-ears
  
• Tonal Balance Emphasis on mids or highs, don't care too much about bass. Also want to avoid reference/ neutral headphones.
  
• Past Headphones I use these for gaming [ATH-AD900X]
  (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-AD900X-Audiophile-Headphones/dp/B009S331VU)
  and these for travel and school Sennheiser Momentum In-Ear. I like them both for their purpose, but I'm not particularly fond of the Sennheisers shrill highs, and I feel the Audio Technicas are a little too neutral for my music.
  
• Music I listen to a good amount of nu-metal bands like Slipknot, Avatar, Korn, Ghost, System of a Down, and Megadeth + plus a little bit of jazz like John Coltrane
  
• What would I like to improve I'm just looking for headphones that are a bit more specialized for jazz and metal, unlike my current audio gear.
  
• Location I live in Canada, so prices in Canadian would be appreciated. Thanks.
  
  I've also been looking for headphones myself but am stuck between the Motorhead Iron Fist, the ATH-M50X, and the Grado sr80e, any new suggestions are welcome, though.
  

The Hifimans are awesome. You can get the HE-400i for under $200. Amazing light planar sound. Extremely neutral and well resolving. Lacks a little bit in the bass department for some, but you can get a headphone amp (like the FiiO E17K that I have) that has some bass boost and be QUITE happy. I have the sibling 400S, which has a little bit more bass, was originally a little less expensive, but I paid around $300 (4 years ago) and was happy to.

The downsides to them are they are large and open backed. If you can't accommodate open backed, look elsewhere.

Edit: Ima put mine on now.

really hard to make a recommendation when you don't list a price man.

I'll just throw out what I personally own that is both dac and amp

• FiiO K5 Pro / $150
  
  
• Topping Dx3 Pro / $220
  
  Now based on a recommendation from someone in this sub I purchased a THX 788 dac/amp but I'm extremely disappointed with it. Extremely noisy for almost $500. My Topping DX3 pro at more than half the price sounds WAAAY better in terms of low noise. I also own the THX AAA 789 amp / no dac and that is HIGHLY recommended but it's only an amp.
  
  I don't think this is in your price range but I also own a Sony Signature Series Audio Component Amplifier / $2200 which I pair with my Senn 800s cans and worth every penny.
  
  I also own separate dac amps from pretty much entire schiit line but this sub apparently has trolls against schiit. Price to performance is worth it imo but you'll get neckbeards here who will jump all over you for suggesting schiit. Also own a bunch of tube amps when I briefly caught the tube bug and was tube rolling for a bit.
  
  I also ofc own the Beyers 770, 880, 990, and T1 2nd gens, Senns 6xx, 600, 650 and 800s, HiFiMan HE4xx & Sundaras, Philips shp9500s & Fidelio X2. The 770s are $130ish cans and it's hard to recommend anything pricy and it sounds like you just want some decent sound man. So the FiiO and Toppings are the most I would spend considering the cans you currently using.

1. Budget: Depending on the solution - probably no more than 400 euro for a headphone amplifier, or 650 euro for a receiver/amp if that's the ideal solution.
   
2. Looking for: A headphone amplifier, or an AV Receiver that has decent headphone support. Possibly a solid DAC for said headphones.
   
3. Using the gear: I have a desk in the apartment I'm staying. I have a laptop with a single HDMI output port that I currently have connected to my monitor, although I think I could get a HDMI splitter and connect my monitor and HDMI into an AV receiver.
   
4. Gear that I own: I recently purchased the Senn. HD650s. I currently own a FiiO 17K Alpen 2 that I used along with my current headphones (Senn. HD 429 West's) especially when travelling.
   
5. Source input: Laptop: variety of music on the device (FLAC, MP3, Ogg) as well as watching movies/playing games. HDMI out is an option I think, although I can use the FiiO 17K that I own if that's a good solution.
   
6. Willing to buy used?: No. Preferably I'd like to buy from Amazon.de, since I've recently moved to Germany and don't have a way to go collect items from shops - so Amazon.de or some other fast online delivery service.
   
7. Additional information: I do plan on purchasing some speakers in the next few months, so that's why I suggested the AV Receiver route as a potential option, but only if the sound quality is still excellent. I've heard Yamaha, for example, has some decent headphone support (although not sure if I can get a model which is good).
   
   As I said in #6 above, I'd really appreciate it if people could link things I could get online (pref on Amazon.de). Really don't know this city well enough.
   
   If I go the DAC/Amplifier route, I've been looking at the follow:
   
   

• https://www.amazon.de/Oehlbach-Kopfh%C3%B6rerverst%C3%A4rker-integriertem-DAWandler-schwarz/dp/B00MIZR18Y/ref=pd_sim_sbs_267_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31nUGsyFrGL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=ZDHYESK7S2Z8DD5WBJ95
  
• https://www.amazon.de/nationalen-JDSLABS-Objective2-rerverst-NwAvGuy/dp/B00E0DMCO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466607884&sr=8-1&keywords=jds+labs+objective2
  
• https://www.amazon.de/Audioengine-D1-Bit-Premium-USB/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_267_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41J2yqjIuOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=7FDXYNCRTCTMV41FYAQ3

Items I already have: ATH-M50x headphones, an AT-LP60 turntable, and a desktop pc w/o a soundcard

Items I want to get: speakers & an amp/dac

Is there a way I can just have one amp accept input from my turntable and computer and output to both my headphones and speakers?

I found this which I'm pretty sure will do the job, but is there a better option? Or is it better to get separate speaker/headphone amps?

Any help is appreciated!

These? https://en-us.sennheiser.com/best-audio-headphones-high-end-stereo-hifi-hd-600

If you haven't dived into the world of ultra-high end headphones yet, I'd recommend against anything with that high of an impedance (300 ohms, in this case, actually the same impedance as the HD 800s), unless you're going to do a lot of research, and probably spend additional money on an amp. There's definitely no way they'd work on a cell phone or anything portable, without an amp, and I'm not 100% sure if the little portable AA battery amps would drive them properly. They may or may not work with a computer, 300 ohms is kind of right on the line of what a computer can potentially handle. Depends on your sound card, desired volume, etc. Other sound equipment, yeah, that's something you need buckets of research to figure out (or just buy an amp).

I ended up going with lower impedance headphones rather than try to figure out amps, personally. Specifically, the older version of these: https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ Those are basically the best it gets without needing to worry about an amp. 50 ohms, while most cheap headphones are about 16-32. The 598s I can recommend very highly, they sound a bit better than my "THX certified" Klipsch Promedia speakers, for sure (not that I have any complaints about those either, for the price they're excellent). The only possible complaint about the 598s is that the sub-bass is almost non-existant, so no dubstep (sounds like that's a non-issue!). Regular bass, however, like string bass, cello, etc., sounds excellent.

edit: They may also be a tiny bit quiet on devices where you already have to crank the volume to 100% on regular headphones, but a little AA battery amp should be fine.

Edit edit: On the other hand, if you do want to go for the HD 600s, this amp appears to be highly recommended for its price: https://www.amazon.com/Objective2-Headphone-Amplifier-JDS-LABS/dp/B00E0DMCO0

Thanks for the response! You've given me a lot to consider.

Something crucial I didn't know but realized last night while trying different settings on my audio interface: the sound on the computer is output to the audio interface, so i can monitor through the headphone jack on the interface and get both the local and remote voices in there. I really like the sound and gain of the H6 preamps, so if I had to record this weekend, I'd use H6 in combination with an ART HeadAMP4 (or similar) so everyone on my side could monitor.

I'd record the mixed output track to zencastr and if that sounds fine, I'd use that, but also record the individual tracks to the H6 as backup or just if I wanted a track not touched by Chrome's auto-gain. In this case I'd use the zencastr track for syncing.

I've considered having multiple laptops as a solution, but don't want to require guests to bring computers or have a second computer dedicated to running zencastr.

I'd suggest looking at the Audio Technica M40X. It's currently going for $99, and is truly an awesome pair of study headphones. They will be more suited than the M50X, because the M50X features more unnecessary bass and treble, and the soundstage is also narrower. Comparatively, the M40X is more neutral and pleasant.

But, if you can splurge upto $145, just look no further than the Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250 Ohm Version currently going for $144, and is like miles ahead of what the M40X/50X can offer you.

Pair the DT770 Pro with an amp like the Fiio A1 currently for $28, and you get a long term solution. Basically for just $50 more ($144 + $28), you're getting a solution that's head & shoulders above your all expectations!

I've been researching portable dac/amps and here are a few to check out.

Fio K1- Its one of the most popular and well reviewed portable dacs at the moment. 24-bit/96khz dac/amp that is supposed to be well balance with a low noise floor for about $40.

Dragonfly Red / [Dragonfly Black] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F7L3I14/ref=dp_sp_detail?psc=1) . All the reviews and impressions I've read for these devices are that the Black not bad, but Red completely blows it away in terms of sound quality but is also about double the price at around $200.

SMSL IDEA / Sabaj Da2 - Made by the same factory and using the same chipset under different brand names. These have also been getting rave reviews due to being sub 100 dacs but have the sound quality of much more expensive dacs. Also both come with usb-c otg cables. Both seem to be more favorited than the Dragonfly. Both can be found on amazon with the IDEA being a little more expensive than the Da2.

Things to keep in mind are that there are some glitches when some of theses are connected to android phone which have work arounds.

*Hissing or screeching when plugging into phone: Start music first and then plug in dac. Changing the usb mode to midi works for some people as well.

To take full advantage of have a usb dac alot of people recommend this app: USB Audio Player PRO

Also the inline remote controls and mic on headphones won't work with these.

I run a MX3 but don’t think it’ll drive any of those speakers Well as it’s 35-40 watts per channel and maybe 25 watts Clean......
I would run a receiver but if you can’t then stronger mini amp Like SMSL SA98e but it doesn’t have remote or headphone amp - just an amp. You could run a mini stack - dac/Headphone amp Plus an amp but would be above your Budget at $180-$250ish up to $400ish

PSAudio Sprout II would drive your any of current speakers including towers and is also a dac and headphone amp and remote But runs $599
BUT it’s American Made with Good Quality and Warranty and Support.

https://www.psaudio.com/products/sprout100-integrated-amplifier

I would keep the towers and sell the Rest and get a Sprout II or a ChiFi mini stack..........

SMSL AD18 might drive the Polk 70s but Not to potential. It’s weak point is the headphone amp from what I read...........but will drive Lower ohm headphones

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Bluetooth-Decoding-Amplifier/dp/B01M3ULDG9

.

https://www.amazon.com/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B07KG9P3X3

Or (no remote)

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B006IPH5H2

Or ( no remote)

https://www.amazon.com/Fosi-Audio-Converter-Headphone-Pre-Amplifier/dp/B07G2NQYLX

Plus

https://www.amazon.com/TDA7498E-Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated/dp/B077GWVHHN

Or

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-98E-TDA7498E-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B01N19ZHVV


Or

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-APA150-150-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B000VKXLBO

All the Chinese made amps overrate the wattage or post max wattage at 4 ohms in distortion level - either way Clean wattage at 8 ohm is usually much lower.......

Or Sell Everything and get the MX3 and Bookshelf Speakers.

MX3 has some quality issues reported - Mine has been Great for 2 months till other day usb/optical quit working - I tried to take it apart to look for bad/cold solder joints but couldn’t get the board out more than 1” so put it back together and it’s working Again ? - Not Sure about longterm use on this thing.......

With a good Realtek ALC1220 implementation you don't need a sound card for 99.9% of setups. Only with high impedance headphones would I suggest an upgraded audio solution.

An external DAC + amp will beat a sound card by a significant margin, at least in terms of figures such as signal to noise ratio.

https://www.amazon.com/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B07KG9P3X3

If you have some nice headphones such as Sennheiser 6XX I would opt for a unit such as the Topping DX3 to drive them. It performs really well, even against more expensive setups.

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-and-measurements-of-topping-dx3pro-dac-and-headphone-amp.4967/

If you have some cheaper headphones but still want something better than on-board, the FiiO E10K is a good value.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

It's strong enough to power nearly any headphones, but I don't know, I am always a little nervous of Monoprice audio gear. It's kind of... meh.

I am sure you'd get better performance at a better price out of something by Topping, SMSL or similar.

And at the same price point there's this which seems to get great reviews: Bravo Audio Ocean Headphone Amp

Thanks for the reply. I suppose I don't necessarily need the background, just on the equipment that I need.

I'm necessarily on a budget, but I would like to maximize the performance of the headphones as best as possible, without going "overboard." I like the idea of a combo amp/DAC, but I'm not sure on the best options at a decent price. I found these to go with:

https://www.amazon.com/JDSLABS-Objective2-Combo-Headphone-NwAvGuy/dp/B00EJ9405O

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflower-Electronics-Desktop-Objective2-ODAC/dp/B00TQ2JDAG

What are your thoughts?

You probably don't need an amp for the 598's, though it would definitely benefit from one. £60 would get you a FiiO e10 or a Topping. I don't have experience with either, but they seem to be well reviewed.

A very common setup is a Schiit Magni amp with a Schiit Modi DAC. Shipping from the US might be a little expensive, but I think these are considered to be one of the best headphone DAC/amp combos in the price range. Since the 598's are fine without an amp, you could wait and save up to buy the pair of Schiits. Or even just get the amp, since a DAC isn't super necessary anyway.

Hey Zeoss! I wanted to say awesome reviews and you have been a huge help in stepping into the audiophile world.

I recently picked up the Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 6XX Headphones when they went on sale. Now I'm trying to prepare what amp/dac I should buy.

I use my headphones to game and listen to music, I also work in game development. I was leaning towards the Aune X1S.

https://www.amazon.com/Aune-X1S-384KHz-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B014FBZCCA

But I also was looking at the Mayflower.

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflower-Electronics-Desktop-ODAC-Rev/dp/B00TQ2JDAG

There is also a massdrop right now for the Aune X7s and I could pick up the X1S Mini dac as an addon.

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/aune-x7s-balanced-headphone-amp

I know the Sennheiser HD 6XX has open backs so I was wondering what you would recommend. Should I stay with the X1S for gaming and general music listening, or would another amp/dac combo be better? I'm not sure if it matters if it's a combo amp/dac or if they are separate like the X7S. Also I'm concerned about my mic, but I'll probably just go with a standalone that goes directly to my PC. My price range is 200-500$. Thanks for any help!

Project Carbon Espirit is $600. Did you consider a Rega Planar 1 or 2?

Pass on the $300 AT-LPW40WN.

• Check out the better Fluance RT85 Reference Turntable with Ortofon 2M Blue Cartridge $500. Optical sensor servo speed controlled motor for low wow and flutter and speed variation. Auto-stop with on or off switch. Solid wood plinth. Black or no charge upgrade Walnut finish. However you have to wait for it to be back in stock.
  
• Or in stock with an aluminum platter is the Fluance RT83 Reference Turntable with Ortofon 2M Red Cartridge $350. Same motor and specs as the RT85. Fluance plans to sell an around $100 acrylic platter like U-turn does as a separate add on for the RT83, probably when the RT85 is back in stock.
  
  The AT-LP120XUSB $250 is a lower budget copy of the much much better Technics 1200. If you want a new direct drive, the step up from the LP120 is the Audio-Technica AT-LP5 $400.
  
  Belt-Drive vs. Direct-Drive Turntables | Audio Advice
  
  Phono pre-amps and headphone amps:
  
  
• What is a Phono Preamp? | Audio Advice
  
• Phono Pre-amp: U-Turn Pluto $100, Pro-Ject Phono Box DC $100, NAD PP 2e $120 factory refurbished, Schitt Mani $130, or the much loved Cambridge Solo $180.
  
• Headphone amp: Bravo Audio V2 $65, JDS Labs Atom $100, Schiit Magni 3 $100, Liquid Spark $100, JDS Labs Objective2 $140. Credit: List from Zeos.

First off, welcome to the party, pal.I've been really happy with the SMSL 793-II that I picked up on ebay for <$50 a few years ago. I've got very sensitive headphones and don't need much power. That said, I'm looking at upgrading to a DAC over USB and a JDS Labs Atom amp.

Lots of great bang/buck stuff out there under $100.

https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Fulla-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B07KWG13Q4

Has a nice look to it, nice feeling volume control and is both DAC/AMP. Amazon has a $20 off coupon on it right now. That'll be over budget after tax etc. but it's a decent option. This subreddit has lots of stuff from people upgrading.

Any entry-level DAC/AMP is going to be worlds better than your 3.5mm out jack on your PC.

Does anyone have any experience with the Topping TP32EX as a headphone amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO0SEPK/ - it's probably the cheapest headphone amp with remote control you can find. I might get speakers at some point, but what I'd love is a headphone amplifier I can use with a remote control, and nothing decent besides this seems to exist for less than $800, when I would rather spend like $200 on a decent solution to power HD580 and Q701 headphones? Anyone have any ideas on how this does, or on an alternative for like...$300 max?

If I had your money, I would go for this:

AMP: https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Magni-Headphone-Amp-Preamp/dp/B07KWJ9QMN

DAC: https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Modi-3-D-Converter/dp/B07KWHWV1M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549174246&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shiit+modi+3&dpPl=1&dpID=31YBfKudw3L&ref=plSrch

Headphones:
https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-770-PRO-Studio-Headphone/dp/B0006NL5SM (250 ohm version)

Yes of course it's like a hundred bucks over your budget... This is how upgrading your battlestation goes usually xd

Great looking setup though!

>Are you confident that this could be the solution?

Yes, this is the purpose of an AMP, and all portable DACs have built in AMPs since they are needed for it to work. A portable DAC will connect over USB and output over 3.5mm. A portable AMP will take a 3.5mm in and output over another 3.5mm connector.

 

Portable DAC & AMP: Fiio K1 (75mW @ 16 Ohms) $39.98

Much more powerful one: Fiio Q1 (190mW @ 32 Ohms) $69.99

 

Portable AMP only: Fiio A1 (78mW @ 16 Ohmes) $27.99

More powerful one: Fiio A3 (450mW @ 16 Ohmes / 270mW @ 32 Ohmes) $59.99

you will probably get the most mileage out of nice headphones and a headphone preamp like maybe some AKG K7XX and a cheap amp like a Schiit Fulla, that way when you get monitors you can just plug them into the desktop amp.

https://drop.com/buy/akg-k7xx-massdrop-first-edition-headphones

https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Fulla-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B07KWG13Q4/

an Audio Interface is pretty cheap too tho, and it will do the same stuff as a preamp(usually includes preamps)
Popular Choices are also around 100-150 bucks for starter gear.

but take a look at this one
https://www.amazon.com/Aune-X1S-384KHz-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B014FBZCCA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480026504&sr=8-1&keywords=aune+x1

for 80$ dollar more u get confirmed zrevieuw posetive :Xd
i mean if i compare that to the cheeesy usb thing lol i dunno like u said it looks like Realy cheesy u can fit 20 of them usb in 1 aune :P so i dunnno like if its 80+ more dollar for much more bang i would pay what do u think?

I love love love my 595s. I'm thinking of picking up the pc360s for a headset when I wanna play and skype. I also bought this. So i can have speakers, noise canceling headphones, open-ear head headphones, and headset with mic all hooked up at the same time, all with different volume controls. It's amazing. Overkill.. yes, but that's what expendable income is for!

I think we've already found you a solution, but I had already typed most of this up, so I'll post it for educational purposes.

It's tricky to go from optical/digital to headphones, because most products for headphones are designed to support portable use... and optical isn't a cable type you'd typically see in portable products. So you're kind of trying to cross two worlds it's far from impossible, but may not be super cheap.

You need two things. A DAC to get from the digital signal to an analog one and a headphone amp to give that signal enough power to drive your headphones. You can find TONS of DAC/Amp combo devices--many products from Fiio... but they're generally designed to go receive USB or digital coax (again because the market is much larger for portable use). The DAC/Amp combos that can take optical, and in turn are designed for desktop/tabletop use, are gonna be more expensive--products from Shiit.

You could combine a $30 Fiio D3K Taishan DAC with a $100 Shiit Magni. But that amp is probably overkill. You could use a $70 Topping TP21 as your amp--it supports speakers and headphones.

The absolute cheapest option I can come up with is a ~$30 Fiio D3K combined with a $30 Fiio E5. But then you'll have to deal with that portable amp running out of batteries. Also, you'd need an adapter to get from Stereo RCA to 3.5 stereo.

In the end, it turns out your headphones already have a DAC and an amp built in. If you used a USB cable, you'd be using the UDB DAC. If you use the RCA cables (which is what you should do--with an outboard DAC), then you'll just be plugging straight in to your amp. Hope that all makes sense.

No, I have never tried the Vali. Though I have heard that it's decent, but has issues with hissing and microphonics. But considering the price, it is good starter tube amp.

The Aune T1 is also a pretty good since it's a tube amp and a dac.

Here are some examples of quality external dacs/amps:

Topping DX3

JDS Labs Element(B-stock is $50 cheaper with cosmetic imperfections)

JDS Labs Atom Amp + Topping D50 Dac

There are cheaper ones, but these are considered great in the audiophile community.

There are also soundcards but these are superior. And all you need is a USB 2.0 slot (and power outlet).

well, that's great news :)

check out the Aune X1S with ~4,9VRMS you can comfortably drive the HD650 and get all the in/outputs you want.

Stuff that's decently large (for a 1080 h264 encode, around 15-30GB) marked with FLAC or AAC audio generally have the most you can get out of anime. FLAC is a "lossless" codec, meaning you're getting non-destructive compression. Of course, that also depends on if someone tinkered with it before it was a FLAC, but it's not too big of a deal with anime. I forgot to mention Massdrop x Sennheiser PC37X by the same company. I haven't listened to them before, but I think they would be good since they use similar drivers to the HD600 series. Cheaper at $150, has a mic. I don't like how they look but I wouldn't care if it sounds good.

You won't need an amplifier for the PC37X bc they are much easier to drive at just 50 ohms instead of 300 on the 6XX, but you should still look for a DAC if your onboard audio chipset isn't great. Most people recommend the Dragonfly I think (I haven't tried this).

Here are a few lists to look at and learn some more about how this stuff works:
(https://midination.com/headphones/best-studio-headphones-under-100/)
(https://midination.com/audiophile/best-budget-dac/)

Get a DAC. Fiio is known for the best portable DAC's. I don't know your price range, so here are some right now.

Fiio E6, $27

Fiio E11, $65

Fiio E17, $140

Fiio E18, $160

Hope this helps. If you can upgrade a phone, iPhone and HTC One has good sound cards from my experience.

Check on the earcup. It should say 250 pro if it's the 250ohm version.. the box could've just been a mistake, but the earcup decides all.

also because it's 250ohm, you'll need an amp to get the good stuff out of them. There are a ton of "budget" amps in that range, so here are a few that I recommend. Schiit Magni ,Objective 2 , and if you can spend the extra 50$get the Scarlet so you can get a good microphone input later down on in the line.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $343.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG H5 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $56.60 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $150.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $59.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $228.60 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $117.99 @ Micro Center
Case | Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition w/ Window ATX Mid Tower Case | $109.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic 660W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $126.99 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | Acer G257HU smidpx 60Hz 25.0" Monitor | $259.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1455.02
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-14 11:38 EDT-0400 |

So seeing you have a headset, the A40s. They aren't very good compared to price equivalent Of DT 990's and as well as DT 770s now I would highly suggest upgrading to a headphone and a modmic or blue yeti.

Comparisons

Headsets are generally really bad, the A40s/A50s are ok, they aren't great but not bad. What I would do is move to headphones and a modmic. People have made this switch and love it. The DT 990s are stupid comfy, same for the DT 880s and DT 770s and any Bererdynamic headphones. They are so comfy, huge pads, deep cuffs, comfy, so much.

Open vs closed back

Headsets are generally closed back, however they have some issues with that. They tend to have bad audio positioning in the headset. They don't give spacial awareness and such.

Open headphones leak sound, so people around you can hear. The drivers are directly exposed or slightly covered. However they offer a lot better experience, much larger sound stage, much better audio positioning, and everything better overall.

Mics

Now for headphones, they don't come with mics so you have a few options. You can get a Blue Yeti mic, a modmic, Audio Technica AT2020, or similar. I'll list a few

Modmic 4.0

Blue Yeti

Snowball

Headphones closed and open

Open, DT 990

Closed, DT 770

Open, AKG q701

AKG 7xx, open

Closed, Status Audio CB-1

Open, Status Audio, OB-1, Hardware Canucks did a video on this

AMPs/DACs

Magni 2

* Aune T1 Mk2

Finals words

I would visit /r/headphones for a 2nd opinion too. Also feel free to ask any questions regarding this or the build. I included a 1440p monitor if you wanted to upgrade instead of the headphones.

Minimus 7? I thought I was having a flashback lol. Completely agree with Rrussell2060. For $150-200 US budget a combination of one of these amps for $50-80

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXCEDGS/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006K7AT26/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2QLGEQ/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WK775U/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PA3ECGK/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CRLZGE/

plus one of these speakers for $55-90/pair

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKPJSIM/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2/

would be best. If you're going to connect your PC via RCA plugs you're done or you could add a BT receiver for $20 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBCAW2/ if you have a tablet or cell phone you want to stream with.

If you're worried about that I guess it's worth the investment. Just don't expect any significant sound improvements versus the regular M50.

They're $170 on my Amazon, but this one is the same price but you get a free amplifier as a gift.

I saw a lot of good things about these m50x so I decided to order a pair. They should be here tomorrow. But I believe they are better than the majors at the same price. I'll let you know how I like them tomorrow if youre interested.

The Schiit Modi/Magni stack is one of the more popular stacks.

The Aune T1 is a good all in one kit.

I'd head over to /r/headphones or /r/audiophile and read their FAQs or ask around there for more suggestions. If you go with the Shiit stack you can start with just the Amp and then get a DAC later on if you felt you needed it. You probably won't unless you're listening to audiophile level stuff (lossless music) but an Amp might be nice for higher end headphones.

A decent soundcard that you would be able to tell the difference over mobo audio is going to run you $100+ anyways so I think pricewise you get more bang for your buck with an external setup unless you're looking for other features like surround outputs, virtual surround, Dolby stuff, or voice augmentation.

I have an E17. Since this is a combination DAC/amp, is it inadvisable to use it with another amp? I'd like to have an O2. My understanding is that if I bought this line out connector I would be bypassing the amplification of the E17 and it would be fine to use it with an O2. Is there any problem with this plan?

The reviews on Amazon seem to be backing me up, but I feel like I can trust the users here more to point out any issues.

Something like this or this would be better though, since they're more portable and don't take much extra space to set up. I believe portable music amps use better components than line splitting amps as well. The line splitting amps don't seem to display specs.

I have the DT990 Pro 250 Ohm and I use a dedicated sound card. The motherboard will definitely not be enough to power them properly.

A few suggestions:

• Creative Sound Blaster Audigy FX is cheap and will get the job done but you won't get a 100% out of the headphones tho.
  
• Sound Blaster Z costs a bit more but will fully power the headphones (please note that it comes with an annoying red LED but it's possible to wrap electrical tape around the LED to make it stop (I use this personally and the sound is amazing).
  
  
  Those are the sound card suggestions. There are also Amps and DACs that sit outside the PC and power the headphones:
  
  
• FiiO E10K is the cheapest you can probably find for a Amp/DAC.
  
• Schiit-Magni costs a bit more but you do get more.
  
  There's obviously even better/more expensives one but you get the idea. Just google DT990 Pro soundcard/amp/dac and there will be loads to read.
  
  Good luck and enjoy the headphones.

Then Id agree with explosivo563 on the e10k. If you can save some extra money this is definitely worth the extra

Looking at an entry level computer speaker setup, mix of gaming and music, maybe some movies but not a priority.

Budget was 100$ but I blew through that my first hour of reading Zeos' guides. New budget is 200$ or as close to that as possible with great sound.

• Micca MB42X @ $99.95 - Very sold on these
  
• Topping TP21 @ $68.50 - Toss up between this and the SMSL SA50, but I eventually want to get a BD DT770
  
• 3.5mm to RCA 6' @ $7.70 - any quality difference between this and eventually getting a DAC and going optical? probably not worth it for an entry build...
  
• 12 Pair Banana Plugs @ $16.99
  
• 100' 16g Cable @ $9.82
  
• Total @ $202.96
  
  I live in a more remote state with very sparse options on craigslist, and I've only had bad experiences with eBay.
  
  Questions:
  
  

1. TP21 running the BD DT770? Should be able to handle it pretty well right?
   
2. Can I get away with using scissors instead of cable strippers? What if I'm reeeaally careful?
   
3. Do I need a sub? I feel like that's a bit much at this point
   
4. Can I blame the internet if I get buyer's remorse?

Would it be better for me to use an external DAC at this price point? For example I have and am currently using the aune x1s as a DAC without the headphone amplifier. would I get a better sound if I paired it with the pioneer you linked earlier than the Onkyo? I guess what I'm trying to say, is the onkyo's internal DAC any good?

Budget - $100 preferred, willing to go up to $150ish

Source - PC, Phone (note 3), tablet (nexus 7)

Requirements for isolation - Medium, mostly for home use. I'd like to avoid too much sound bleeding also.

Preffered type - Over ear, I have a large head.

Preffered tonal balance - I like crisp clear highs, but I do want a balance so I can still get some bass out of the headphones.

Past Headphones - Bose AE2 many years ago, most recently a pair of Monoprice HIFI DJ headphones that broke in a month, I hate these.

Preffered Music - Mostly metal, I do listen to just about everything but rap. I'd like some bass for my occasional electronic stints.

I've been looking at VModa Crossfade LP ($107) and Sennheiser 558 ($120) and 598 ($170) and this audio technica 50x bundle. Build quality and comfort are just as important to me as sound. I appreciate any help you guys can offer.

Copy and pasted from a message:

Hey there!

I just came over your reddit post from a few months ago about you purchasing the HD 650's and I was hoping you could help a first time headphone buyer out :) I'm too scared to ask r/headphones due to my lack of knowledge on all things.

Right now I'm unsure of what to buy/ let alone what every thing does. I purchased a pair of HD 650's and am unsure of where to go next.

I hear terms like amplifier, DAC, sound card, etc. thrown around and have no idea what does what. I do everything from my laptop and was wondering what cables/ gear I need to embark on my audiophile experience :)

I currently have this amp in mind:

https://www.amazon.com/JDSLABS-Objective2-Combo-Headphone-NwAvGuy/dp/B00EJ9405O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467657105&sr=8-2&keywords=jds+labs

What do I need to know about this/ is it good enough?

Thanks so much :)

Thanks. I do get better sound out of my 598 headphones from the Sound Blast Z than I did on the onboard of my Asus Z87-A, especially at high volume. But the "upgrade" wasn't as drastic as I would have liked for the he. When I move to an ITX board, I am really leaning towards using a 100-150 dollar USB DAC instead of a traditional "Sound Card".

edit: Any experience with this? https://www.amazon.com/Objective2-headphone-amplifier-JDS-LABS/dp/B00E0DMCO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485980191&sr=8-1&keywords=JDS+objective

It has headphone out, microphone in, it's from the JDS Objective line, and in my price range.

Edit 2: That doesn't appear to be a USB DAC. It is a headphone amp only.

The 82 does not have a preamp and you will need one in order to hook up to powered speakers. You would probably be fine with something like a Schitt mini with the added bonus of being able to use it for headphones as well.

As mentioned in other comments, the usual suspects from Schiit's budget-friendly selection are a good start:

• Amplifiers: Schiit Magni 2 or Schiit Vali 2
  
• DAC: Schiit Modi 2
  
  As for products not made by Schiit, any of these will give you good performance for the price:
  
  Amplifiers:
  
  
• JDS Labs Objective2
  
• Bravo Audio Ocean
  
• Little Dot I+
  
  DACs:
  
  
• JDS Labs OL DAC
  
• Micca Origen+
  
  Now I can't guarantee that all of these amps will reliably drive the AKG K712 Pro with authority or anything, but they should all be able to let you use them without turning the volume up to 11.
  
  Hope this helps :)
  
  Edit: Ok so smaller USB-powereds are not sufficient for the AKGs, as pointed out by the commenters below (Thanks for correcting). That would explain why I perceived so much improvement upgrading from the E18 :P

hey, just noticed that the Aune X1S is down to 199$ on massdrop and remembered your post. Should easily compete with schiit smear and o2+odac.

The Z review for this product. (I'm pretty sure it's pronounced aw-nee)

Edit: words and link, thanks /u/massdropbot

Alright I'll go with these if there aren't any other recommendations.

Just to be clear its this and this right? Seems it comes with an RCA cable so I should be good (?)

Audio Technica ATH-m50x! I bought a pair and I can't reccomend them to enough people! Here's a link (sorry it's a US link, but the product should still be available)
Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZRXWRW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These headphones changed my music, and it allows you to appreciate everything from an audio aspect in a whole new way! Please give these a look!

Well you could get a good amp now so you're good to go if you ever get a pair of power hungry headphones. If money isn't an issue then go ahead. I've heard good things about the 02 amp and dac as well, not sure if that's available over there though.

Here's a link

JDSLABS Objective2 + ODAC Combo Headphone amp By NwAvGuy model by JDS LABS http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EJ9405O/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_GJK2tb07T81FA

One is a simple solution, the other is a more complete solution. I'd recommend something kind of in the middle.

https://www.amazon.com/E6-Portable-Audio-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01LYYKP29/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485233141&sr=8-3&keywords=fiio%2Be7&th=1

It will solve the output impedance issue that the lightening adapter would, while also amping and providing a slightly cleaner signal to the cans.

A DAC/AMP combo will make a huge difference. I have almost the same headphones as you at work, and love my Aune T1 http://i.imgur.com/O9cVWal.jpg . I listen about 4 hours a day so it was a worth while investment for me at $200. I put a better Genalex Gold Lyon tube in it for $35 too. Sounds incredible, can't belive what I was missing.

A Fiio EO7K would be about half that at $89. Portable, pretty good sound but you really got to crank it with my DT990s.


Aune T1 - http://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Generation-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B00A2QJMRY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411543816&sr=8-2&keywords=Aune+t1

Fiio EO7K -http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411543301&sr=8-1&keywords=E07k

I may not be reading this right, but on the Syba site for the USU07 it says:

"UAU07 equipped Hi-End Cmedia CM66xx USB Audio Controller supporting Asynchronous Transfer, ASIO and WASAPI. Wolfson WM8740 inside gives you High Resolution 192Khz 24bits conversion."

It also looks like M-Audio is rebranding another Sybasonic device as this

I'd also recommend a portable amp for some extra bass and power. Good luck on your search.

yeah. i bought an amplifier to connect two BOKSES. but with that thing you can go like crazy loud and have even more bass. but never turn it to max because the BOKS will shut down xp here is the link. (works only with AUX but you can connect a bluetooth-receiver with AUX-Connection to it like i did)

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00X67G77O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XbHtDbRNZQTY1

You will want to use something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Bass-Traveler-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00X67G77O/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=portable+headphone+amp&qid=1566014072&s=gateway&sr=8-15

This should allow you to boost the signal coming from your camera and run it to your headphones. I would also get some closed-back headphones if you don't have them already. That should help cut the outside noise getting to your ears.

Yeah I know that's the price everywhere right now, but I thought I remembered them usually being around 4-500 Canadian, I just don't know if the price was always that low or if it's actually a sale.

I use the Behringer UMC-404 with my DT-1350's right now. I'm a little wary of using an audio interface as a headphone amp, but I feel the 1350's do benefit from it.

....maybe I'll buy a dedicated amp this boxing week idn.

EDIT: perhaps this(Bravo Audio Ocean Tube amp) connected to the line out of my UMC-404?

I use the Audioquest dragonfly red when I’m on the go and I’ve been pretty happy with it. It’s the same price as the stack I listed above but it’s portable af. It literally is the size of a flash drive. The stack I listed above will sound better, but it won’t be portable.

AudioQuest - DragonFly Red USB DAC/Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFMV4NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ck0pDbM4F037D

You own some? I am looking at this dac/amp as well as some others 2 3 4 5 and if you have any insight I would love to hear it before I burn another hole in my tight budget.

First, here's a frame of reference for what I was seeking in the first place. If your own criteria diverge from these, then whatever I got won't be relevant to you. Also keep in mind that some of the models listed at the time have been discontinued by their manufacturers. too.

Anyway, I ended up getting this headphone-and-amp bundle from Amazon, which included a set of Audio-Technica ATH-M50X headphones with a FiiO E6 amp. At the time, it was US$170, though now it's down to US$149.

I might have made a different choice if one option I was considering hadn't had a ~$50 price jump between the time it was recommended and the time I decided to make my purchase. That said, I'm mostly happy with my pick. My headphones seem sturdy (though I've had them for less than two years, so take that with a grain of salt in the context of BIFLness). My main issue at this point is that I wish the headphone cushions were a bit softer and/or deeper, since they can get a bit uncomfortable—with the driver resting directly on my ear—given that I'll wear them several hours a day.

I do. I have a MOTU UltraLite Mk3 which feeds into an ART HeadAmp4. Previously I ran from the MOTU headphone out to the ART input, but lately I use the main line outs on the MOTU. Same results.

The ART does give much more power than the interface when using big headphones, so that's nice. Other benefits: I can run multiple headphones at once, and I also use the ART to send the signal to my monitors. It's nice controlling the volume of monitors and headphones all in one place.

Entry level user here. I just bought an AT-LP-120 USB and I want to listen mainly with headphones. I'm thinking of getting the Schiit Magni 3 Headphone Amp and Preamp for that purpose.

Is this all I'll need to start listening with headphones? The turntable came with two output cables.

Also, if I decide to get speakers in the future, will this setup be OK, or will I need another piece of equipment to get the speakers working? Thanks all!

Would this T-AMP be ok? Do I need to buy any other cables to hook up the amp?

And thanks a bunch for answering.

Edit: Would this work out fine instead?

The momentums are very meh, I can also recommend Beyerdynamic DT770s (which are very comfortable and closed instead of open) with a modmic, but you may need a dac/amp for them depending on your onboard audio. I'd recommend 100% actually DT770s with a Dac/Amp which will use Optical in from your PC and output through the jack on the front, when it comes to being used with your phone, you may have problems however, so if you can't afford to buy something like a FiiO A1 alongside it to power the headphones at the same time, you may want something else such as Beyerdynamic Custom One Pros.

Just bought some new 'AKG K7XX Massdrop Limited Edition Headphones' and am looking to get an amp for them :D I will use these for music listening at my office (via PC and Spotify) and on my home system which includes a PC w/ Spotify, turntable w/ pre-amp, PC w/ my music library and a lot of FLACs

Options I've been looking at:

• SMSL Q5 Pro DAC/Amp - $100
  
  
• Gemtune APPJ 1502A Tube Headphone Amplifier - $150
  
  
• TEAC HA-P50 Portable Headphone DAC/Amp - $150
  
  
• Bravo Ocean Tube Amplifier - $95
  
  
  Right now I'm leaning towards the APPJ or TEAC but would love some feedback from /r/audiophile! Note: The prices are from Massdrop, not the site linked

Head on over to r/headphones a lot of people seem to like the Schiit Magni 3 Headphone Amp and Preamp

Tons of great recommendations over there. I personally am looking myself. That brand seems to be the general consensus for a mid range audio upgrade

Yeah, as long as it isn't waisted after you upgrade then it's not a big deal. But that Fiio E6 isn't going to drive the HD600's very well at all. You will definitely want a Schiit Stack or an O2/ODAC

I'm not the guy for a headphone recommendation - spent too many years with a pair of Sony MDR-7506 (which I think are great)

As for the mic and DAC/amp - like I said, you can't go wrong with a ModMic 5 and either a Schiit Fulla or a Micca Origain G2

Antlion

The Schiit

Micca Origain g2

/ the above DAC/amps are good and function on USB power, so they're portable

I think this is the best option. You could use whatever headphones you had laying around the house. Also it isn't super expensive.

[Here's one that can do 8 headphones] (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Powerplay-High-Power-Headphones-Distribution/dp/B000CZ0RMO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480389627&sr=8-3&keywords=studio+headphone+amp)

[Here's one that can do 4 for $65] (https://www.amazon.com/ART-HeadAmp-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B000M0TN6U/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1480389674&sr=8-47&keywords=studio+headphone+amp) I work in radio and we use that exact model in all our studios for guest headphone monitoring. They are nice little units that can be chained together. So if you only have the money for one at the moment, you could buy a second later, and link it to the first.

Not to my knowledge, but you can just use something like this or this and attach one of these or these and use it like that.

Oh. Wow, you're such an audiophile. I've never heard of AKG, is it good? Better than Sennheiser? Also, I was thinking more along the lines of a USB mobile phone DAC, something like this, but cheaper.

Well I'm not in a huge rush to get anything. Would it be worth while using the Topping TP21 while I search for an amp? I plan on using it for both my DT770 pro's and Wharfdale SC-M1's I was In all honesty the longer I wait the larger my budget can be.

Any amps I should look out for while I continue looking?

This one is decent enough and a good starting point. Relatively cheap and will greatly improve the quality of sound!

Ok thanks. then what do you think of this bundle on amazon?http://smile.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-Professional-Headphones-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00JZRXWRW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407699156&sr=8-3&keywords=m50x

Is the Amplifier worth the upgrade to the blue M50x or is it not worth the $70 in terms of quality?

Yeah it's confusing. If it has a headphone jack and a volume knob you can call it an amp. If it also has a digital or USB input you can call it a DAC/AMP. If it only has analog audio input then it is a dedicated amplifier. If it only has RCA or XLR outputs and no headphone jack than it's a dedicated DAC with no headphone amplifier.

Some decent combination DAC/AMPS are Schiit Fulla at $90, Audioengine D1 at at $170, Soundblaster E5 at $200, Fiio E10k $80. Those are all USB and easy to use and install.

You could also go with a PCI sound card and install it in your computer. If you do I highly recommend any of the Asus Xonar or Essence soundcards which vary in price from $50 up to $270

A cheap stand alone amplifier would be something like a Fiio K5 $109, Schiit Magni 2 $120

A cheap stand alone DAC would be something like a Musicstreamer III $160 , or a Schiit Modi 2 $120 (i didn't like it's sound but others do), etc.

I think you need to try the headphones on the Soundblaster Z to see if it can drive them. The Z has a built in headphone amp. It may be enough.

If not, there are a number of lower cost options for amping your headphones:

1. The Schiit Magni 2 is pretty popular
   
   
2. The FiiO K5 is also a decent choice
   
   
3. The O2 headphone amp is also a great choice. Massdrop has the O2 for cheap sometimes
   
   

What's your budget?

Schiit Fulla 2 is a really nice solution. https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Fulla-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B07KWG13Q4/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=schiit+fulla&qid=1574456952&sr=8-2

Your not going to see combo ports for anything desktop though. Desktop almost exclusively uses seperate jacks for in and out, you'd need an adapter for 4-pole combo ports.

Amps like the following could be used. Keep in mind that they don't have remotes.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6/ref=lp_281053_1_18?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1381948567&sr=1-18

http://www.amazon.com/Topping-TP21-Digital-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B005CRLZGE/ref=sr_1_151?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1381948811&sr=1-151

When it comes to speakers, you could go with options like the following:

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1381949940&sr=1-1&keywords=micca+mb42

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1381949940&sr=1-5&keywords=micca+mb42

Firstly, thanks for all taking the time to help out with your suggestions. I have one more. I am thing of adding this for using headphones with the LP120X. Any suggestions? https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Magni-Headphone-Amp-Preamp/dp/B07KWJ9QMN/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2TKXO6E6Q07B7&keywords=magni+3&qid=1566972204&s=gateway&sprefix=magni+%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-3#customerReviews to

They're monitor earphones, so they emphasize neutral audio without enhancements. My pair came with a portable DAC that boosts the bass and some of the mids. They sound fantastic. During office hours, often people have to wave in my face to get my attention.

Audio-Technica ATH-M50x Professional Studio Monitor Headphones - Black with FiiO E6 Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRXWRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uO9Exb6D3ZTJQ

I'm not familiar with the E17, but it looks like they sell an attachment for it that adds a line-level output bypassing the amp section for about $10. It'd be cheaper than a new independent DAC

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-L7-Line-Dock-Cable/dp/B004QVNS0S

This one is supposed to work on the e7 and e17. also I'd use toslink over USB myself, though the difference is minimal. I've noticed slight noise with usb DACs, though only while listening to silence and under high amplification, so maybe it isn't significant enough to matter.

Earpiece? Like, smaller, earbud headphones? I would honestly recommend getting a portable amp if you're having trouble hearing it on max volume. I've found the Switch (and the 3DS) have very low max volume via the headphone jack on some games, especially BOTW. Maybe something like this. It'll let you use your existing headphones - you just plug the amp into the Switch's headphone jack, and then you plug your headphones into the amp.

If you get the DX3 Pro make sure you get the LDAC version. This is the v2 of the original and they fixed the big issue in the Z Review (switching between full line out and pre-out is now a separate option and not available in the output cycle) and also some quality issue that caused the unit to die prematurely.

https://www.amazon.com/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B07KG9P3X3/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=topping+dx3+pro&qid=1569144000&sr=8-4

I have the DX3 Pro LDAC and love it and yes you can do what you want. To switch between Full Line out and Pre-Out when using it in DAC mode requires you to unplug power then hold the volume wheel and apply power then navigate to the option and select full line out or pre-out. This is covered in the manual. You can no longer accidentally switch to full line out and blow your speakers on the device or remote like you could in the original.

Double pressing on the volume wheel cycles between DAC, Headphone, and DAC/Headphone at the same time. And also Bluetooth if you have it enabled. Then single pressing on the volume wheel cycles between inputs. Wish you could reverse this but you can't. I cycle between outputs more than inputs.

I would stay away from receivers if you're looking for a headphone amp. The lower the output impedance, the better. There's a few different options for you. The Fiio K5 Pro for $150 is a dac/amp combo and would suit you well. It's out of stock at the moment, though. The Schiit Magni 3 on sale for $74, but it's only an amp. The SMSL M100 for $80, Topping D10 for $90 (USB only), Topping D30 for $105, and Schiit Modi 3 for $120 are all good dacs. If you only really need USB and you have a USB-C port on your computer, the Apple Dongle is very cheap and a decent dac. As far as a desktop amp, there's the SMSL SA100 for $74 and the Topping PA3 for $105 as options for you.

A dumb question, im not sure if this is the correct place to ask.

Howdy! I was looking into buying a pair of K702s and would like a portable amp. I have been recommended the Fiio E18 for them. Just to confirm, since this is my first amp that I am buying, want really dont want to mess it up, the E18 would work fine for the K702s, right?

Thank you!

This Fiio K5 looks interesting! Looks like the outputs on the back are line-outs, rather than pre-outs, so you'll still have to control the BX5s' volume separately.

If you want to spend money and not just use your laptop you will need the following.

3 XLR microphones, stands and cables
A mixer with at least 3 XLR inputs
If you want to all listen on headphones you will need a splitter for that
A few assorted cables i will list
And garage band or some other recording software.

I have listed below what i used starting out.

[Microphones] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T45X1G/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Stands] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002M3OVI/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Mixer] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J5Y282/ref=oh_details_o08_s02_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Headphones splitter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M0TN6U/ref=oh_details_o08_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Microphone cables] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008B2DBY6/ref=oh_details_o08_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Other cables] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=oh_details_o08_s02_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1) These are used to go from your mixer into the recording device and also from the mixer into the headphone splitter.

Hope this helps.

You might be better off with something sleeker like this:

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E18-KUNLUN-Android-Phone/dp/B00GCDJBMM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497267187&sr=1-1&keywords=fiio+e18

AFAIk it comes with rubber bands to wrap around the amp and phone.

Thank you for the help. I actually need a little more help i looked a little deeper and i found two other actual tube amps and i believe they are a much better choice, but then which one.

Litte dot MKII: http://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-MKII-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QMAI2/ref=pd_cp_MI_2

HIFIMAN - EF-2A: http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMAN-EF2A-HIFIMAN-EF-2A-HEADPHONE/dp/B004357WL8/ref=pd_cp_MI_3

I concur with u/donFrio on the Apple TV and wireless hdmi to projector.
My current solution in the house is to use the Apple TV as the receiver for just video (I don't have any gaming systems). You can get a wireless HDMI Switcher for the PS4 and XBone (in the link below) to switch between the VIDEO feeds.

Ultimately you would have all the gadgets (appleTV, PS4, XBone, bluray) in the table by the screen, connect them all to the HDMI switch input. Connect the HDMI switch output to the wireless HDMI transmitter and VOILA, hdmi transmitter wirelessly transmits whatever media you want to the projector.

On the audio side it would probably be recommended to get a receiver of some kind since you have so many different devices you would have to switch audio on...or just keep using the bluray player as a receiver??

http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_2

http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-EGHS5S-Switching-Switcher-Selector/dp/B008YLHBEA


To get audio from apple tv to a receiver:

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETDTAP-Digital-Optical-Converter/dp/B005DIRI6I?ie=UTF8&ref_=de_a_smtd&showDetailTechData=1#technical-data

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO0SEPK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2QBDDP1A9ZG7E&coliid=I2IQN66AYBRON

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-SVZa7aCH8

Amazon has them in stock. Check out Maverick Audio's MagicTube D1 Plus (or the regular D1). I just got it and I love it.. esp the multiple inputs (one for my PC, one for my other PC, and a hookup for my windows phone).

Best thing I came up with in the past is using an audio mixer and a headphone amplifier.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UIP0IPO
http://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B00X67G77O

I ended up getting the Topping TP21 for that reason. Another great little amp.

no i dont need to. but i liked how loud they were able to drive my speakers, 50wpc, as well as the small size. i just figured those were both properties of class T.

i probably dont need anything more than 100w for the 2 speakers.

edit: i'd found this one, but i didn't like how it was half the power of the dta-100a http://www.amazon.com/Topping-TP21-Digital-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B005CRLZGE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1349275317&sr=8-1&keywords=topping+amp

OOh! And here's my favorite budget headphone amp

You can theoretically get 8 people on it as long as they don't mind sharing volume in pairs :-)

Fulla 2 has a $20 coupon. I’ve been really happy with mine.

Schiit Fulla 2 D to A Converter and Headphone Amplifier - DAC/Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWG13Q4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p-hlDbBEQ42N0

As was said by others, lose the soundcard, but with the amendment that if you ARE an audiophile, get a E10 from Fiio, or if you want even better sound, get a O2 + Odac. Next, get an i5 with a decent motherboard, then get the fastest SINGLE GPU you can get.

This is an excellent headphone amp/DAC

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Black/dp/B07KG9P3X3/

You would need an adapter for 6.3mm.

I want to point out that instead of the M50X that you have linked, you can get a Fiio E6 free with it using this link. http://amzn.com/B00JZRXWRW

Cheap and dirty, but reasonable quality (better than onboard sound)

Popular, good quality, doubles as a headphone amp

More High End, Tube Sound

I assume you mean USB for your phone, right? That's what makes sense. I've not seen many DAC/Amps with an analog Aux line in...

The FiiO K3 is close, but doesn't have an analog out.

The Schiit Fulla has line or variable analog out (in addition to headphone) but no optical.

The AudioEngine D1 and SMSL M7 look like they have all of it, but are above your budget a bit.

But please check the features and confirm for yourself.

http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Fi-Man-EF2A-Tube-Headphone/dp/B004357WL8

I'll be investing in this little thing very soon, seems promising!

Awww dang i was literally hitting the sub up today looking for portable amp/dac advice. O_O

I might have to be a guinea pig for this then.

I have one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/KMASHI-10000mAh-External-Battery-Portable/dp/B00JM59JPG/

but curious how much juice this might drain as a dac/amp combo because listening to high quality music + amp + dac, i have 2 things that want that battery power now?

I was eyeballing the FiiO e18 because it had the built in battery:

https://www.amazon.com/Kunlun-E18-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00GCDJBMM/

Is the DAC component of the e17 fully transparent like DACs such as the odac and Modi? I have a Violectric V100 that I need a DAC for and I have an e17. If the e17 is transparent I want to get a line out dock ( http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-L7-Line-Dock-Cable/dp/B004QVNS0S/ref=pd_sim_e_5 ) for it to bypass the amp component. If it's not, I'll probably get this dac- http://www.violectric.de/Pages/en/products/usm-24-96.php .

If I get the vio DAC I would most likely sell the e17.

I use a Fiio E18 USB Amp/DAC. The device is mainly for headphones, but also has the ability to serve as an external battery for USB devices.

http://smile.amazon.com/FiiO-E18-KUNLUN-Android-Phone/dp/B00GCDJBMM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420420889&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+e18

The tube amp you linked is a speaker amp, not really designed for headphones. For your price range, there aren't any good tube amps. I would get a solid state amp. For rock, I like anything from Grado. Check out the SR325 (https://www.amazon.com/Grado-Prestige-Series-SR325e-Headphones/dp/B00L1O2PDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468937044&sr=8-2&keywords=grado) and maybe a Fiio k5 amp to go with them (https://www.amazon.com/K5-Docking-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B01BBX1NNM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1468936968&sr=8-9&keywords=fiio+amp).

Holy moly that is expensive. I was looking at this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GCDJBMM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19UWB7L0RHHLP

Thanks for the reply.

I've got an E17 that works just fine on Fedora. The E17k should work as well.

These have powered amps for passive speakers as well as a preamp with digital inputs, bluetooth and headphone amp.

• https://www.amazon.com/Topping-MX3-Bluetooth-Headphome-Amplifier/dp/B075SYC4Z5
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-PRO-Bluetooth-Amplifier/dp/B07MQVWW43/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-PowerGate-Amplified-Wireless-Gateway/dp/B01N0A7PH5
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/PS-Audio-Sprout100-Complete-Digital/dp/B07D9V4JNC/
  
  
  Preamp only (without a speaker amplifier) -
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B07KG9P3X3/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Dilvpoetry-SMSL-Headphone-Amplifier-Integrated/dp/B078T9WNLC/
  
  This one doesn't have a headphone amp built in- you'd need a separate one -
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-SMSL-Sanskrit-Converter-Decoding/dp/B077XC64WF/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Sanskrit-Pha-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B017VXQ7OG/

Well it's not overly cheap if you want to be able to control the volume. It's really just a splitter that takes the composite output from the Wii, feeds one branch to the TV, and the other to a 3.5mm adapter that then goes into a small amp that you plug your headphones into. The amp is really just a volume control, and by itself is $30, so if you don't care about being able to adjust the volume (I don't think it's too loud otherwise), then you can get the price down to under $15.

got one of these if interested

Ahhh this one. Looks interesting and seems to be right what I'm looking for.

Ran into the same issue you're having w/ my AFTV3 last year, and after constantly querying Google for a resolution, I bought these 2 devices which enhanced my soundbar's audio output immensely: SUCA Audio DAC and this M-Audio Bass Traveler (optional, bass booster). TL;DR: basically the audio output of the AFTV device connected to your soundbar is gimped due to the nature of that device and so using a DAC (digital audio converter) could help mitigate this issue.

I'm not sure if the E7 has FiiO's 18 pin connector, but they do make an attachment that bypasses the amp section and adds a line out to a few of their portable amps. You could look into that.

EDIT: Yup. The E7 has the connector. This would add line out.

> Putting the DAC in the headphones means that your music sounds great no matter what device you play it through

No, it means your music gets played through a shitty-ass DAC that's in the headphones, instead of a decent one in your phone. Why would you assume that a $40 pair of headphones would have a better DAC than a $700 phone?

Nothing was ever stopping you from using a separate DAC/amp if you wanted to, now you don't have the option of using normal headphones, you absolutely need a powered set, have a whole different set of batteries to keep charged, etc. It's lower quality and has a worse user experience than having the phone do everything.

I have a pair of 598s I use for gaming as well as music production/listening to music. They sounded great before I added an amp. After I added an amp, however, they sounded amazing. An amp for these headphones is not necessary for quality sound, but if you have the extra cash it definitely makes a difference.

This is the amp I'm using by the way. Coupled with a xonar dx soundcard.

https://www.amazon.com/Bravo-Audio-Ocean-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QKSVI

that is an analog mic with an ADC then the USB interface, essentially a sound card, it isn't just a wire adapter. sound inside the computer is digital, sound outside of the computer is analog, there must be some means to convert it from one to the other. For headphones I'd use a decent DAC and amp stage, something like this for portability, or this for stationary use or FiiO E07k for ultra portability

It's called the Fiio L7
Link: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Line-Out-Dock-Cable/dp/B004QVNS0S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404277878&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+l7
The line out side is connected to a 3.5 to RCA going into the Magni, while the usb line in is going into the source. It allows me to bypass the amp on the E7 and just use the dac. An advantage to this is I can just use the E7 as a portable dac and amp combo, instead of a dedicated home setup.
Edit: I saw in your tag you have the E09K, it's basically that, but if you already had an amp.

there are a few choices though most are hybrid tube amps

https://www.amazon.com/xDuoo-TA-01-192KHz-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00L25RF78/

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-T1-Optical-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B06WP6357W/

https://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Generation-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B00A2QJMRY/

https://www.amazon.com/Pangea-Audio-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00TA7CNQ8/

If you have an optical or coax out put then you could get a really cheap DAC and feed a tube amp like the Little Dot 2

I currently have a SMSL SD793-II and was wondering if upgrading to a SMSL Sanskrit 6th gen/FiiO K5 would be worth it, or even an improvment.

So on Amazon I found this bundle of the M50x with a Fiio E6 Amp for $169. The regular M50x cost the same price, is this deal worth it or should I still go with the regular M50 with a coiled cable?

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-Professional-Headphones-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00JZRXWRW/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t

I would highly suggest against a DAC that draws power from the phone itself, even though you may have a power source nearby, it isn't good for the phone battery to be charge/discharged multiple times a day.

I'd instead look for a DAC/Amp with it's own battery, like the FiiO E17K

Yup, I'd say that's a good deal. Although, they have a deal where you get the amp and the headphones (black) for the same price as the headphones alone.

The deal is slightly more for the blue headphones, but still discounted nonetheless.

Link to deal

The Topping DX3 Pro is in amazon for $176.

It's not ideal, but the Wii U and 3DS' low volume -- even with high-quality headphones -- led me to buy one of these guys. I was hoping to retire it for the Switch, but that hasn't been the case. It makes a massive difference.

uhh you might wana use this instead between your phone and fiio to shorten that cable or alternatively a fiio L15 (same thing but with flat cable instead)

and isnt it double amping when running e07k > o2? maybe use this so you only use the fiio as a dac? http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Line-Out-Dock-Cable/dp/B004QVNS0S


edit: or why not just the fiio on its own when travelling?

Most TVs should have Optical or Aux out, and then you would use a L7 to give a line out connection to your amp.

Hrm. For 50wpc you would have to go up to the Audiosource Amp-100 which is much bigger. OR take the power hit and get the TP21 with 25wpc for around the same price but it does include a headphone amp.

Just did a little research. The general consensus is that the HE-500's need 1W of power to fully maximize their potential, their impedance being 38 ohms. The T1 apparently supplies 1W at 32 ohms, so I'd imagine that the new T1 would be plenty of power to drive the HE-500's at a reasonable volume.

Am I using correct logic?

DAC : https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O

AMP : https://www.amazon.com/Bravo-Audio-Ocean-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QKSVI

is this any good ?

It's this one: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00A2QKSVI/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HSTM5XFPEM1MYNQK629D&dpPl=1&dpID=41pSnd%2Bb%2BPL

I'm running it into Sennheiser 598s

http://www.amazon.com/JDSLABS-Objective2-Combo-Headphone-NwAvGuy/dp/B00EJ9405O