Reddit mentions: The best helical threaded inserts

I've been working on this table project for a little while now, and now just need to fasten the legs to the table tops. One issue that that these raw oak slabs were never planed more than the rough cut from the tree, so their fairly uneven, and even bow a little (don't think it shows in the pictures, though). For that reason, I need a way to level the legs so that the tables don't rock once their finished. Shimming the plates with washers should be easy enough to get the table level, but I'll need machined threads to run the fasteners into and out of (and then into and out of again) so that they'll still hold once it's all said and done. I've looked at a few different options for this problem, but aren't convinced any of them are ideal. T-nuts would work, but I think they might pull out since they won't be held in from the top of the table surface (not interested in that industrial look). These threaded inserts and these similar ones would seem to do the trick, but the reviews raise questions about the strength of the material in dealing with hardwood, as well as problems with the material stripping while trying to place them. Anyone have any suggestions/advice?

TLDR: Looking for fastener solutions to affix table legs to the underside of an oak slab that will allow adjusting to level the table.

Great questions.

Yes, I found these great brass knurled thumb screws https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005RTF0NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and threaded inserts https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00207NF6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the pivots. I thought about a soild pin but that may interfered with anything larger than a letter.

The inner top corners and bottom back panel are angled to give swing clearance from the outer box.

I played with lots of wood blocks and inner catch ideas but settled simply on 2 small brass nails that I insert/remove to mount the outer box to the wall. The are definatly strong enough to prevent it from "over opened".

I ended up spending a lot o time finding the right pivot point but found a place where its nicely balanced. Its stays shut when its shut and open when its opened.

Earlier I made a practice station for a set of 6 locks, but it was uncomfortable to hold in my lap while I watch TV. So I made a couple of these small holders in an hour or so. There is a brass insert for the screw, so these will last forever, and the screws will turn easily.
I would recommend making these before you try to duplicate the big rig.

I used the E-Z Lok 1/4-20 brass inserts. You can use thumb screws or knurled screws (as shown in the picture). Thumb screws are available at nearly any hardware store.
The special tool I used to screw in the brass insert is shown here, but some people may want a driver bit.

I rounded off the edges using a router table, but a sander can be used. The slot can be cut with a table saw or a small dovetail or gent's saw.

I didn't apply a finish yet, as I wanted to use them for a while. I can do that later. I used oak for these holders.

The parts can be purchased here. here. here or here and the T-handle wrench I used is available here.

Some tips:

• Drill some small pilot holes and make sure they line up because the holes from the side and top have to intersect.
  
• The large hole may cause tear-out, so you might want to drill from both sides. (That's why a small pilot hole is useful).
  
• Make sure you drill the proper size hole for the brass insert. I have 3/8" marked on the bag to remind me.
  
• When you, ah, insert the insert. make sure the slots for the screwdriver face out, so you can remove the insert in case it gets messed up.
  
• I find the T-handle wrench is easy to control and to make sure you hold the tool at the right angle. If it's tilted, the insert may not go in easily.
  
• Be prepared and have extra inserts, in case you mess up.
  
• If you use a hard wood like cherry (like my practice station), you may have to use one of the brass inserts to start the thread, then back it off (with a screwdriver) and replace it will the final one.
  
• Be safe and protect your fingers. Drilling the large hole into the block will cause the wood to grab and spin with the bit. I held it in a small vice. I also used a professional hold-down when I used the router table. Those pieces of wood are too small to be hand-held.
  
  Let me know if you have any questions.

So they make these things called helicoils for replacing threads. Basically looks like a spring coil and you drill out the stripped threads to a specific size and tap it for the outer coil thread, twist it in and the inner coil fits your screw. But yeah the repair costs as much as a new motor lol. Worth having the tools on hand though since the helicoils themselves are like a couple cents
https://www.amazon.com/Z-SK40210-Threaded-Stainless-Installed/dp/B0092QUKRG

The arm itself could be made out of wood with Teflon bushings to give them a bit of resist to stay where put.

The pole could be made with most any metal pipe with a larger piece of pipe over it. just drill a hole, thread it and make a lock with a bit of all thread bent into an "L" with the handle part coated in plasticoat.

Just make a wooden piece that fits tightly over the outer slide pipe and have two more threaded holes in the sides of it and the pipe for two bolts to hold the wooden arm mount.

The tray of course is another piece of wood.

If done with care it would look much better in my opinion.

EDIT The tray looks like it has a place and lock type joint. This can be made with a black rubber stopper, a washer, a nut, a threaded insert, and another piece of all thread in an "L" shape.

Like so.

L== N|>T=

"L" the handle

"=" is the allthread

"N" is the nut tacked to the allthread

"T" is the threaded insert

"|" is the washer

">" is a rubber stopper with a hole in it

As you tighten the allthread it squeezes the stopper causing enough friction to hold the tray in place quite well.

You could use a shaft collar in stead of the nut for a no weld solution.

Buy them at lowes or McMaster Carr!!! Way cheaper!!

Those are beautiful, would love to have them on my keezer...I currently have 4 reclaimed rail spikes that I drilled and tapped, which look awesome in their own right, but damn these are nice.

Home Depot

http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-16-Coarse-Brass-and-Gold-Steel-Wood-Insert-Nuts-5-Pack-880551/202242364

Lowes

http://www.lowes.com/pd_137397-37672-880551_0__?productId=3012578

Amazon (Best Deal 10 for 4.70)

http://www.amazon.com/E-Z-Threaded-Insert-Thread-Threads/dp/B00DCFH08A

I like using the ones they sell on amazon. They're shorter and their threads are finer. I also drill a 9/16" pilot hole though. I just switched to a 9/16" forstner bit and like it much better than the spade bit I was using.

based on the url I'm betting he was referring to these.

One of the other posts recommended something like this which would also be a good choice.

Threaded inserts

This way you can secure something like a case trimmer or motorized chamfer/deburr tool to your bench top and remove it later without taking up valuable work area.

I think this is very similar to the insert used on the original build.

If you're routinely opening the panel, I'd suggest getting threaded inserts like this that allow you to use machine screws rather than wood screws. If you take wood screws in and out enough times, you'll make the hole useless. The ones I listed are sized for inch threads, but you can find metric equivalents.

Also, as someone else mentioned, I'd seal the case with something to protect the wood.

I screwed these into the top:

E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 1/4"-20 Internal Threads, 0.500" Length (Pack of 25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00207NF6W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Then I put 1/4 inch hex bolts through the holes in the legs into those inserts in the top. If the wood expands - which it would do widthwise, not lengthwise - the bolt has room to move within the hole in the leg so that it doesn't crack.

No OP, but they are called Threaded Inserts.

Available probably at any hardware store or [Amazon](E-Z Lok 400-4 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 1/4"-20 Internal Threads, 0.500" Length (Pack of 25) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00207NF6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2HLmDbKA5T2RF)

Why wouldn't you ever be able to disassemble it? If you back the screws out to disassemble it, the holes will still be good. Depending on the hardness of the wood and how rough you are with it will determine how many times you can re-use the holes -- and even if the threads chew up the wood, it's really easy to just drill out the hole and glue a new hardwood dowel in and then start the process again by predrilling holes into the dowel.

Alternately, a threaded insert will let you screw something into the wood once and from that point forward you're screwing into metal. It'll last a lot longer, but you'll have to get different screws to attach the pedestal to the surface.

>Currently I use aspen with my current setup but I am able to remove the top for easy cleaning. Removing the top on the AP T8 is about 16 or so screws (maybe more) so I am considering using corrugated wrap or any other suggestions people might have...I fear the aspen will be a pain to clean in the small 12" high T8?

If you are planning to constantly remove the top to clean, ditch the screws that came with the AP cage, they are wood screws and will strip the holes after 3-4 removal/reinstalls. Get these and matching machine screws.

For me, I used aspen for a good 3 months on my AP cage, I got tired of it as it does dry the enclosure and the winter made my humidity struggle so I swapped to cedar. I just spot cleaned the aspen and for removal i used a dustpan to shovel it and then vaccuumed the remainder while my snake was being handled/in his quarantine tub.