Reddit mentions: The best home audio crossovers

A subwoofer output is where you plug the subwoofer in. Either on a receiver or powered speakers that have it.

If you want powered speakers with a subwoofer output, Kanto YU6 among others for example.

Do you like the Adam active speakers for the way they look? Sure you can use them, however "Professional Studio Monitors" are just that, to be used in a studio for professional sound production. From the Adam website, "perfectly suited for use in small control rooms for music production, video post-production and broadcast production". If you would want to add a subwoofer you would probably add a rack mount subwoofer crossover.

If you like KEF, $500 refurbished Q350 passive speakers.

For a better bang for the buck:

Philharmonic AAM $200 +shipping with a 2 week in home trial period. They have a great low end and don't necessarily need a subwoofer for music, or right away for home theater.

ELACs are on sale, B6.2 for $250.

Ascend CBM-170s $300 +shipping. Best budget audiophile speakers I have found and own. Since they are internet direct they compare well with speakers costing hundreds more from the big brands. Neutral sound with a flat frequency response. SEAS of Norway tweeters, custom mid-bass drivers, and big dual layer crossovers. 30 day in home trial.

Receivers: $150 refurbished stereo receiver ONKYO TX-8220. For an AV Receiver with 4k HDMI, $150 refurbished Denon AVR-S530BT or the popular $320 Denon AVR1400 7.2 with Audessy.

Thanks for the response.

Its not the phono pre, as the flutter issue was happening previous to getting the Mani. Not even sure if the Mani has any subsonic filter, actually.
I was getting the flutter with my old set up, and i'm also getting with my new setup. Makes me think its the TT motor or bearing like Artbrutist mentioned above.

I'm using these:
https://www.amazon.com/Harrison-Labs-Inline-Subsonic-Crossover/dp/B00S8XXWAG

Otherwise, the Mani has been really impressive. I have it set at the mid gain level and it made an appreciable improvement in the experience. At the high gain setting, I do get a touch of distortion at high volume levels, and the low gain setting is just really quiet.

so you want to be able to play your XB on another TV in a separate room other than where the console is placed??
You can use a splitter if you wish.. make sure it is a powered one... dont go cheap... they will burn out... but with a splitter the signal is pushed through to both locations at once... if you want the ability to switch from one TV to another... you want a switcher... which only pushes the signal to one loaction at a time and are usually NON powered...
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Switcher-Switch-1-Out-Pigtail/dp/B0026COIQ2

I know the company as stated below... so I would trust them

I used this on my 360 worked perfectly with no lag..
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Outputs/dp/B002673EW6

Mind you this a good brand but not the best... you can for a higher price = better outcome...

I would combine a bit of both. There's nothing inherently bad about prefabbed crossovers, as long as you don't spring for cheap ones and you take care to match them to your speakers. However, derwhalfisch's advice is best if you can manage your own crossover design.

I bought my first set premade (These) and I'm happy with them, but I'll be building my own from here on out. It's the better way to go, ultimately.

Well, the signal from the camera is simply a composite picture, any tv or monitor with a composite in should be able to display it for troubleshooting purposes.
You just have to make sure that the power is getting to the camera, make sure the signal path for the camera to the head unit is good, and then make sure the head unit knows the car is in reverse. My guess would be #1.
If you know anyone who is an audio/visual technician, they can maybe lend you a device which can generate a composite colorbar signal and you could use that to test the signal path instead of using the camera. Failing that, you could use something like this to send color bars from your laptop

I'm not sure if this will work for you, but I wanted to do the same with my setup. I have Spotify on my desktop in my office, and I wanted to play music simultaneously from my receiver in the living room. I use SPDIF (TOSLINK, optical out) to get music out of the computer that goes to a splitter. From there, the signal is routed to an external DAC that feeds the office speakers, as well as to a device that converts the SPDIF signal from optical to Cat5 (ethernet) cable. I use the existing cable in my house to feed a similar device at the receiver that converts it back to optical.

Computer--Splitter--DAC--Office Speakers
--Converter====Converter--Receiver
Where -- is optical and == is cat5.

Splitter: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0119OKGVI

Converter: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00CTRUTN0

DAC: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2

Audioengine also has some wireless products that will allow you to do the same. I used to use a W3, but there's a slight delay and sometimes it skips. I've heard good things about the D2 however.
http://audioengineusa.com/Store/Wireless

Easiest solution would be an SPDIF to 5.1 analogue converter like this https://www.amazon.com/Wiistar-Decoder-Digital-Optical-Surround/dp/B0126U4C1Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510212924&sr=1-3&keywords=spdif+to+5.1, then three dual RCA to 3.5mm cables to the speakers.

The cheap active HDMI splitters work just fine. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Outputs/dp/B002673EW6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1342402699&sr=8-8&keywords=hdmi+splitter

[Oak Wood 8' x1"x6" 30$]
[4" Midwoofer 1 Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4" 12$] (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-tcp115-4-4-treated-paper-cone-midbass-woofer-4-ohm--295-415)
[3" Full Range 2 Dayton Audio PC83-4 3" 20$] (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pc83-4-3-full-range-poly-cone-driver--295-154)
[1" Softdome Tweeter 2 Dayton Audio ND25FA-4 1" 40$] (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd25fa-4-1-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter--275-059)
[3" Passive Radiator 2 830878 3-1/2" Passive Radiator 20$] (https://www.parts-express.com/peerless-by-tymphany-830878-3-1-2-passive-radiator--264-1060)
[Crossovers 2 uxcell 2 Pcs 130W 2-Way 15$] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FBNNCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#)
[2.1 100x1 50x2 Amplifer 1 AIYIMA TPA3116D2 25$] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/AIYIMA-Amplifiers-Audio-Board-TPA3116D2-Amplificador-2-1-Digital-Amplifier-Board-50Wx2-100W-DIY-For-Home/32841707655.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.50204c4dlBRKOI)
[26650 Rechargable Cells 6 26650 Litokala 5000mah 25$] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2PCS-LiitoKala-26650-50A-5000mah-26650-Li-ion-3-7v-Rechargeable-Battery-for-Flashlight-20A/32790517311.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4demHMaD)
[BMS 24V 1 6S 15A 24V PCB BMS Protection Board 2$] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PC-New-Arrival-6S-15A-24V-PCB-BMS-Protection-Board-For-6-Pack-18650-Li-ion/32831085198.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.50204c4dlBRKOI)
[Bluetooth Board 1 Bluetooth w/ mp3 tf fm + controls 4$] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bluetooth-Audio-Receiver-board-with-USB-TF-card-decoding-playback-preamp-output/32672569121.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dFmmUhf)
[Boost Controller step-up-down 1 Regulated Step-up-Down Boost controller 3$] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LM2596S-DC-DC-LM2577S-Step-Up-Down-Boost-Buck-Voltage-Power-Converter-Module-Non-isolated-Constant/32857565021.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dcRs1mi)
[dc-dc 1w converter 5v 1 1w 5v dc-dc converter for bluetooth module 1$] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-B0505S-1W-5V-to-5V-converter-DC-DC-power-module-converter-1000VDC-Isolation/32840613546.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.17ae4c4draS0XU)
[dc power jack 1 dc power jack 1$] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1D5GIP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
[3.5mm sound isolator 1 3.5mm sound isolater (filters out ground noise on line in) 10$] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
[power button 1 Lit power button 8$] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KHNLRS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
[Battery Holders 6 Battery Holders 10$] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074H2ZJFD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7JXEL4

> 3M 733 Dual Remote Splitter Kit The 3M 733 Dual Remote Splitter Kit is made for use with the 3M Workstation Monitor 724. The 733 monitors two workers at independent workstations that are close in proximity. Work station monitors use DC current to make a resistance determination. They continuously pulse a signal that is returned to the monitor through a special wrist strap and cord that contains two separate sets of independent conductors. They measure operator resistance to ground, have a resistor by-pass warning, use a safe, low current signal pulse, provide dual ground paths and have passive system actuation.

After having read that, I'm still not entirely sure what it is.

I can give you a link to the one i'm using.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0119OKOJC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using it with my Pro and an older Home Theater system i have and it sounds great to me.

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Switcher-Control-Dolby-AC3/dp/B00Y0K9YXK

​

I've used this one in the past and is supported by logitech harmony remotes.

To get MacBook air to optical out, you can use a USB to optical converter like this DAC (can't vouch for quality but reviews are good)
Signstek HIFI USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E2maCb7NXB9B8

For your second question, you could use an optical audio switch. Then you can use the remote to switch the inputs.
ESYNIC 3 Port Toslink Switch Digital Optical Audio Switcher 3X1 with IR Remote Control Aluminum Alloy SPDIF Switcher 3 In 1 Out with 6.6ft Optical Cable Supports PCM2.0 5.1CH DTS Dolby-AC3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W8DG3P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F.maCbYFW5QB2

Had to find a mobo with 2 hdmi ports so you can have 2 independent monitors.Also

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Splitter-Support-Identical-VHD-0102M/dp/B002673EW6 you are going to need one of those otherwise.This means 3 cables instead of 2 and another power adapter to get it to use 12volts instead of AC120v.

http://www.logicsupply.com/ml100g-10/#overview comes with 2 hdmi ports

http://www.logicsupply.com/ag150/ comes with 1

this is the cheapest that i can come up with

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD 5350 2.05Ghz Quad-Core Processor | $34.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI AM1I Mini ITX AM1 Motherboard | $33.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | PNY Anarchy 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $14.99 @ Amazon
Storage | PNY CS1311 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $39.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Logitech K400 Plus Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad | $29.99 @ Best Buy
External Storage | Western Digital Elements 1TB External Hard Drive | $55.99 @ B&H
Other| case| $100.00
Other| psu| $45.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $354.94
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-10 04:37 EDT-0400 |

only way to avoid the mess is going the intel way and finding a mobo with 2 hdmi ports or displayport(5 dollar adapter to hdmi)+hdmi and running 2 cables after that.

You should find a compatitible heatsink for that mobo + case combo.And then buy 3 hdmi cables and the active adapter.


Last thing would be wifi and the OS of your choice and you are good to go.


I was looking into intels NUCs but they are kinda expensive and you still will have to get a case for those etc...

E10 has an SPDIF input correct? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/eSynic-Switcher-Aluminum-Material-Dolby-AC3/dp/B074W8DG3P/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550760148&sr=8-3&keywords=TOSlink+switch would allow you to run a tos cables from the PS4, PC and laptop (you could use hdmi for that) to the e10 and use the switch to move from one to the other.

I heard that I don't need a splitter if i have this capture card though? Cause it has a bypass? is that true?

My splitter is this one btw:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002673EW6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2BUXD0L1W5AKG

The command is something like 73001# IIRC.

Also, we don't plug the computer into the CD player. We bypassed the CD player but used the same input.

Pro Tip: Make sure the Dukane and your Computer are powered via the same circuit. Otherwise you will introduce a ground loop hum. If you absolutely must, use a hum eliminator. We had to in two buildings. https://www.amazon.com/Sescom-IL-19-MINI-3-5mm-Stereo-Eliminator/dp/B01AQ7J3TA/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503782848&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+hum+eliminator

I was thinking of hooking up an AndroidTV to my vehicle; they have an adapter cable for analogue video input for the indash navigation system. Searched about and found several other people doing it, but with HDMI adapters like these: https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-HDMI-Composite-Converter-Converts/dp/B018D2OOXA

There are also cheap little things like this, but I don't know how good they sound.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0129FL3XG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1

I wonder if there are some higher-end versions of that.

Theoretically, there's no reason for something that simply takes a digital input signal and outputs 5.1 surround analog line level out, to be expensive. That's like, 10$ in parts and there's not a lot of "magic" involved; it's not even like a headphone amp that needs to take a line-level input and amplify it.

But, there's probably not a lot of demand for something like that, so there may not be a middle ground between $23 gadgets and home theater gear that's the size of a Panzer...

Don't those all plug in through HDMI? That doesn't change. Your audio will go from your devices to the tv no problem. Can your speakers accept optical audio? That is the real question. If not, you'll want a 3.5mm to optical converter, maybe like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7VG3YZ/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_-TrNDb5G97Q3T

You'll plug the optical from your tv into the the input there, and your 3.5mm speakers into the output.

Also, just for reference, the breakout cable is for plugging in older devices, like dvd or an N64 or something. They get combined into that small 3.5mm style plug so that it's more compact than have all 3 giant ports.

Would something like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0119OKGVI?psc=1

If you only want to get this working for one setup and never intend to go into this again, there are off the shelf adjustable four-way crossovers for less than $100:

https://www.amazon.com/Audiopipe-Way-Crossover-bandpass-control/dp/B017NOV8UQ

If you want to learn to design and build crossovers, there is free cross-over design software:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJqvjjyHqqA

Hint: The first crossover you build might cost over $100 in tools and parts, but subsequent units will be much less expensive than retail.

according to what i was able to find indeed you can!

that particular setup is using this hdmi splitter.

here is a video that uses another splitter you can look up as well :D

Did you try searching Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/WV-LINK-Composite-Adapter-Converter-Laptop/dp/B01CQRJEKG/ref=sr_1_12?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1468963592&sr=8-12&keywords=hdmi+to+rca&refinements=p_85%3A1

or

https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-HDMI-to-Composite-Converter/dp/B018D2OOXA/ref=sr_1_25?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1468963642&sr=8-25&keywords=hdmi+to+rca&refinements=p_85%3A1

Ok, thank you for the insight, that is what i was worried about. I've seen these boxes:

(https://www.amazon.com/Wiistar-Channel-Digital-Surround-Decoder/dp/B0129FL3XG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491936995&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=5.1+audio+gear&psc=1)

To your knowledge would this solve my dilemma?

It's working great so far, but there are a few quirks. I have to manually toggle the optical input with a remote to switch between audio for my PC and PS4, but i'm not the type of person to have videos streaming while i play games. If i really wanted to, i could plug a cord into the AUX on my monitor and my Logitech 2.1 speakers to have concurrent audio.

Here's my setup:
PS4 HDMI is hooked into this box to split the audio out of the hdmi
HDMI from that box connects to my monitor and the optical cable plugs into this optical audio switcher
One optical cable goes from that switcher to my PC and the other connects to the speakers here

I haven't noticed any signal degradation despite the double boxes and extra cables stretching into every direction.

No oppo or hdmi input on the AV receiver. Do you think something like this would work?

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Splitter-Extractor-Distributor-Projector/dp/B01KXIAIAK

You can buy these and open controller and replace. It’s much cheaper than a whole new controller, you can look up a guide online, you’ll need some screwdrivers.

The reason why the replacement part is so cheap is because it’s simple mass produced and is literally used by both Microsoft and Sony in their controllers.

You might also be able to open up the analog stick part and uses compressed air to blow out dust that might be causing the stick drift.

Try this out: https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-HDMI-Composite-Converter-Converts/dp/B018D2OOXA

These

Ahh, you’d run HDMI to the tv, then use an optical cable from the tv to the Anthem, but you’d need a optical to RCA converter to use it, such as this one.

Optical switch info:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y0K9YXK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Remote splitter for monitor on workstations Product Link

I've been using this one.

ESYNIC 3 Port Toslink Switch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W8DG3P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I had a similar problem with the X850G model. It was kicking off my Sonos soundbar due to the random signals from the optical port. I was able to solve the issue by using the ARC HDMI port from the TV for sound using a Tendac audio extractor I found on Amazon. My soundbar only has an optical input, so this device was able to make the conversion. It was a pretty maddening experience until I found this solution.

The problem is, you're trying to plug three 3.5mm connections into a machine that only has one 3.5mm output. Those kinds of speaker set ups are meant for machines with a soundcard more commonly found in PCs that have three dedicate outputs, one for front left and right, one for rear left and right, and one for center and LFE.

I'd recommend this optical to analog interface and this cable to connect it to your iMac with.

Probably not. But you could split the HDMI signal and watch the box on the downstairs T.V. Unfortunately, both t.v.s would watch the same thing.

Headphone out can work, but barring that, yes... an HDMI extractor will do the trick - if you have an HDMI ARC port on your TV.

(just an example - not endorsement of product)

• https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Extractor-Converter-Soundbar-Amplifier/dp/B07CJ96MQV
  
  If you don't have ARC out - then no. There would be no way of getting HDMI signal out of the TV - most are input only.