(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best home audio products

First of all, stay away from sonos. They sound like garbage.

Now that that is out of the way, we've got some discussing to do.

If you want the ease of Sonos, but good sound, a pair of KEF LSX is what you want. slightly over budget, but there isn't really anything else in your budget. 'All in one' stuff like that isn't very popular, and is pretty hard to find. KEF makes some of the only stuff like that, that actually sounds decent. Honestly, they sound really nice. I like them a lot, especially for all that they can do.

If you'd rather make a 'custom' setup with bluetooth, a receiver and a pair of bookshelf speakers will be great. Will they be better than those KEFs? Yeah, but a lot of people don't want to deal with the 'hassle' that comes with setting up a system (it really is pretty easy though. put stuff where you want it and run wires). Also, it won't particularly be loads better than the KEFs.

Here's the receiver you want. It has everything you could ever need. Don't worry that it's 'too many channels'. 2 channel receivers usually don't have as many options. This one has bluetooth, airplay, wifi for streaming, etc.

With that, you'll want two speakers. I prefer bookshelf speakers. You get more for your money with them. To expand on that a bit, bookshelf speakers are usually cheaper than tower speakers for what you get. Neither bookshelf speakers or tower speakers can go all the way down, and you'll get some help from a sub with either. For example, you can get a pair of 'budget' tower speakers for around $1000, or you can step up and get a pair of bookshelf speakers that are the next 'tier' in a line, so you'll get better sound.

This is where you have options to make (not like you didn't before, but now you really do). After that receiver, you have around $700. There are two options. The first is to get a pair of bookshelf speakers. The second is to get a pair of bookshelf speakers and a sub. I would prefer just the bookshelf speakers, because you can get something much better (the 'cheapest' sub I would get is around $400) and you can add the sub in later.

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Here are your bookshelf speaker options:

I really like Ascend Acoustics Sierras. They've got a really smooth response, that's pleasurable to listen to. The Dark Cherry color is beautiful by the way.

These KEFs are really nice as well. They have a less 'smooth' presentation and more of a 'detailed' presentation. They're accurate and revealing. Loads of fun to listen to IMO. (They make a bigger version as well, but they aren't any better, and they're more expensive. Too much to get into now, but I'd avoid them).

Now, I'm going to put this pair in here, but I've never heard them. Philharmonic Mini Monitor. I can't comment on them too much, but I can speculate as well as tell you what I've heard from reviews. These are supposed to be very nice. Ribbon tweeters are very 'open' and 'airy' sounding. It's hard to explain, but it makes the sound feel very transparent. Again, hard to explain. The ribbon tweeter they use is a spectacular ribbon tweeter, so I'm sure it sounds great. They'll have tons of detail but will never sound sharp or anything.

Bowers and Wilkins 607 are a very good option. The way their system works is this: The higher the first number, the better series (607, 707 are the same size but with different drivers). The lower the last number, the bigger the speaker (607 is the smallest, 606 is bigger, etc - I have no idea why it is backwards). We were discussing earlier with towers vs bookshelves and I feel this is a good time to explain. You can get a pair of 600 series towers for $1800. However, you can get a pair of 700 series bookshelves for the exact same price, therefore get better sound quality for the same money, if you're okay with having a bookshelf. Anyways, sorry about the side tangent. I think that the 607s are very good speakers (I bought a pair for my friend the other day but he said he couldn't accept them so I returned them :( - fair enough though). They are very fun and sweet sounding speakers. I like them a lot. They also hit to a decent frequency for their size. If WAF is a concern (wife acceptance factor) I feel like these are a very safe bet. They're also in your budget.

Alright, those are some of the best options. If you'll be doing a lot of music listening, I'd pick the Sierras or the B&W because they sound very sweet and they're fun to listen to. If you're doing a lot more tv/movie stuff, the detail of the KEFs or the Philharmonics will be great for vocals.

Also, if you do any of these, you probably won't feel like you need a sub, but it might be nice. This one is the one to get.

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Here are your bookshelf and subwoofer combos. You'll want this sub as well. It's the least expensive sub I feel good about recommending at this price point.

HSU also makes speakers. I don't know much about them, but I can speculate (mine show up monday). Horns are fun and dynamic, but also provide great vocals in my experience. These would be good for a tv/movie setup rather than a music setup, probably.

Here's another pair of horn speakers. Klipsch makes good tv/movie stuff.

These other Ascend Acoustic speakers are also very good. Not as good as the sierras, but they have a similar smoothness to them. Very good speaker for the budget.

These elacs are what you want if you'll be putting them directly against the wall. They have a front port that won't be choked off if you do that. Also, they are a very warm sounding speaker. I like them a lot.

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Whoops, looks like I shot myself in the foot with this one. I told you not to get towers. There is one pair of towers that I would recommend.

Tekton Mini Lore. I've never heard them, but look up reviews. Extremely sensitive, meaning they have awesome dynamics and sound effortless. Also, they get low enough where you won't need a sub. They get lower than a decent amount of subs actually.

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"But Poly, what would you do?

I'm glad you asked.

If I wanted something 'easy' and 'no fuss' the KEF LSX are the way to go.

If I want something for music and I can't fit towers, Sierras are what I would get.

If I want something for TV/Movies, the KEF Q150 is what I would get. Vocals on those things are crazy good.

If I could fit towers, the Tektons are what I would get. Unfortunately I haven't heard them, so I cant 100% tell you that they're perfect, but look up any review and you'll get the idea.

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How does this all look?

Definitely search craigslist. I'm thinking more and more that what you really want is a good set of PA speakers. Carpet-lined, metal cornered, power-handling, indestructible PA speakers. In my old house (wasn't a frat, but very similar) we had Yamaha PA speakers run through a heavy-duty amplifier. The things were literally indestructible - I DJ'd on them for parties, and one (cheap old) amp blew before the speakers did.

Amazon will ship similar models to you pretty fast I think - maybe not to Canada, not sure - http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=PA+speakers&x=0&y=0 - The Pyle Pro boxes look pretty good, and the 8" model probably isn't very large at all. 4 of those to cover both zones would be killer, I would think, and you could easily hang them from the ceiling if you had good mounting chains (yeah, make sure they don't fall on anyone).

After that, the amp is important. You could go several ways. My first suggestion is check Craigslist for a fairly high-powered Yamaha home theater receiver. I prefer Yamahas in general - they have great amps, very good quality for the price, and they're built to last. Other name brands will do as well, just look for decent features.

After that, you can probably just set them up as A and B speakers on the receiver, and use that to switch between them. I'm guessing you basically want the main room speakers for music, and the TV room for both music and TV, so that should work.

Do you need surround? There are some great stereo receivers that have multi-zone capability built in. Ex: http://www.amazon.com/Sherwood-RX5502-Dual-Zone-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B000RGR50U . Otherwise a lot of 7.1 receivers have the option to run the extra channels as a 2nd stereo zone, that may work as well.

If you find yourself needing more power than a multi-zone receiver can handle, maybe a receiver plus an extra stereo amp for the main room, such as this guy: http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-2-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6 or even this one if you want to go overkill: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PTA1000-1000-Amplifier/dp/B0010K6TXQ . In order to hook up a solution like that, ideally you want a receiver with "pre-outs," as you'll hook the stereo front pre-out to the other amp. This also has the added benefit of being able to better control volume in each location.

Overall, just look for the heaviest duty gear you can find. Obviously you're not worried too much about quality, but you probably want it to sound decent - a lot of the DJ speakers will fulfill that requirement for everyone and will be able to bump it loud forever and not die, which is great. Amps can die if you drive them too loud, PA amps are more indestructible, but receivers will give you more control and will be easier to install and use. I'd basically go with PA speakers, a nice multi-zone receiver, and good mounting kits.

Also - Monoprice for all cables and wires, always: http://www.monoprice.com

These have been getting some good user reviews lately and a nice price too, and a pretty small cabinet for a 6.5 inch woofer, 79.99 / pair: 2 Pack 6.5" Bookshelf Home Theater Speakers 100W RMS TP160S-CH DCM by MTX Audio

As for amp's I have two of these (on two different computer systems), Dayton Audio APA 150. This is a serious Class A/B design topology, but no frills, just a well built, serious, "old school" heavy amp. No remote, no DAC, no Bluetooth, but WOW, a really nice, serious, amp! Lots of good user reviews and recommendations all over the net.

A often recommended smaller digital amp S.M.S.L AD18. This one DOES have it all, remote, DAC, bluetooth, relatively small, great reviews all over the net.

If you are really on a budget, try something similar to Lepai LP-2020TI Digital Hi-Fi Audio Mini Class D Stereo Amplifier. Do some searches for tweaking this amp, a very simple way to improve this amp, is to buy a more powerful power brick. There are many versions of this type of amp, amazon, ebay, parts-express, look around.

The other two, often recommended, "great value" speakers that work well with a computer (but you will need an amp), are the Sony SSCS5 3-Way 3-Driver Bookshelf Speaker System (Pair). I have seen these on sale for well under 100/pair, from memory, in the 60's and 70's.

Another great value is the Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Andrew Jones Designed Bookshelf Loudspeakers(7-1/8” x 12-9/16” x 8-7/16” & weighs 9 lbs 2 oz). Again, search around, these do go on sale for well under 100.00.

I have both the Pioneer and the Sony, and I currently am using the Sony SSCS5 with the Dayton Audio Amp. Was temped to buy the DCM, but I have to stop buying "great value" speakers. If I ever want to upgrade my computer speakers, I should save up and buy the Ascend Audio Luna Reference Ribbon Mini-Monitor.

Good luck, have fun, and Enjoy!

If you're only seeing large dust particles on the surface but not hearing much in terms of popping and crackling, then I'd go with just a basic carbon fiber brush like this AudioQuest one. If you're new to vinyl and don't already have one, it's a good thing to pick up anyway. It's good practice to brush each side before each spin. While these types of brushes won't clean a truly dirty record, they'll help your clean records stay clean.

If your records are noticeably loud and noisy then you'll probably have to go the route of wet cleaning. I see kits like this one a lot but I don't think they're really worth the money. You can do a better (and cheaper) job with:

• Microfiber Cloths - Run them all through a cycle in your washing machine (just water, no detergent) to get rid of any fuzz.
  
• Isopropyl Alcohol & Distilled Water - Put a solution of 1 part alcohol and 2 parts water into a spray bottle. You could even use as little as 1 to 4, I don't think it makes a huge difference. Make sure to get 90% plus alcohol and avoid any types of additives like menthol.
  
  You can lay one cloth flat to set the record on, spray it down and scrub around lightly with one of the cloths (it can help to dampen this with the distilled water). Personally I like to then dry the record with another cloth, spray it down with just distilled water to rinse it then dry again and repeat on the other side but you can find a method/system that works for you. If you're being super particular about it then remember to flip and replace the cloth the record is on so as not to contaminate the side you just cleaned. Also if you're worried about getting your labels wet, car applicator pads like these actually cover a label almost perfectly and they can also be used in place of a microfiber cloth to scrub the record, they work great.
  
  If you plan on sticking with vinyl for awhile though it's worth it to save up for a SpinClean. I was a skeptic for a long time but I'm glad I finally got one, it really is worth the money. It does a good job, it's well built and it's stupidly easy to use. If $80 seems too steep for a yellow plastic trough (which it really is, unfortunately) there are cheaper models such as this. Doesn't have a lid and comes with different cleaning fluid but it doesn't seem like a half bad option.
  
  Whichever option you go with always make sure you're putting your newly cleaned records into clean inner sleeves. If they were dirty in those sleeves it's very likely those sleeves are dirty too. Also remember to keep your turntable mat and stylus clean.

Going to toss a lot of info at you and some recs, if you have specific questions let me know:

The problem is that unlike graphics cards, audio gear is rarely objectively reviewed. Take for example the graphics cards. You can measure the FPS or time to render pretty simply in a benchmark. Only a handful of really good publications test speakers in a real objective manner.

From speakers there's lots to design aspects that aren't advertised and vary in quality. Just giving a generic frequency response doesn't really tell you how linear it will be in it for example. It doesn't tell you the distortion of the system. It doesn't tell you the max SPL prior to xmech limitations on the woofer. They don't tell you the polar response or on/off axis FR typically.

In amplifier land different manufactures and try and cheat to make distortion look better, or that they have more power than they really do.

Subwoofers sometimes don't tell you their real roll-off, some have port chuffing, and some won't advertise their max SPL (and if they do, not necessarily honestly).

Speaker requirements also vary based on use. What works on a desktop system will not necessarily work in a larger HT, and what works in a larger HT won't necessarily work on the other. The goal is to maximize benefits and minimize the compromises to ones you can work around.

When looking at a desktop system, you can use smaller bookshelves which may be a bit cheaper as you're not fighting for headroom. Reaching a desired SPL at 40hz and at 3' vs 10' is a big difference. For a subwoofer, I'd say the minimum price new is going to be $250 for something decent. This pricepoint has some that can reach into 25-35hz typically at roll-off, and while not true 20hz (or below) performance can get you readily close. You'll need an AVR to add bass management, so a decent refurb runs about $200 or new at ~$200-500 based on features. You don't need a lot of power on a desktop system, and if only running two channels some will do a solid 80W FTC (FTC means full bandwidth measurement for power at a fixed distortion level). This also means you could upgrade later to a 5.1. For the speakers, you'll want to reach a minimum of 80hz and be linear. The frequency response above 80hz on and off-axis is extremely important, but many don't publish this data. I know Chane (under response) and Ascend (under measurements) do. If it retains a good match of linearity on and off axis it means the drivers and crossovers are well matched. With the Ascend on sale they are likely a little bit cheaper shipped, but they also don't have the extension much past 80hz. They do seem slightly more linear though not both are acceptable. They are larger footprint wise, which if desk space is at a premium the Chane might be better for.

What if you took them into a higher distance setting like HT? Well the sensitivity on the Chane is lower so it requires more power to reach the same loudness. Assuming that they aren't mechanically limited by the smaller driver and that distortion isn't a major concern, the next concern is general headroom under duress. Due to the lower sensitivity of the Chane, it requires more power to make up the difference. This means you'd need a larger amplifier, and you need to pump more power to make up the difference. At first this doesn't sound like a big deal, but there's power compression as well. This means that as the voicecoil gets hotter the resistance increases and with it, the sensitivity gets reduced further, which requires more power to make-up. You'll get additional losses, but not as much as the initial compression. The problem is whether the voicecoil will accept the additional power without burning up and if you have enough power.

Considering this, the one with the best sensitivity is the best for larger rooms/further distance listening positions.

An advantage of the Chane though, especially on the desktop system, is the additional extension reaches to 50hz solidly. Given, being at a desk setup the max SPL you'll likely get before motor constraints at 50hz is ~91-95dB which should be enough. If you go this route you can get a cheaper integrated amplifier without bass management, say the TX-8020 for $150.

See the balancing act even when looking at a relatively simple system? As the budget goes up, even more options open. Typically the advantages come down to more headroom, lower distortion, more extension, better polar response, tighter FR tolerance to linearity - assuming objective performance was the goal. That's for the speaker side which has the most variance. Some invest more in their engineering and generally objective standards than others. You can spend thousands on really bad speakers too.

I haven't addressed concerns like distortion as I think both are perfectly fine on that front (competent designers), but that could be another concern with different speaker.

So, if going brand new the general price range is:

~$350 speakers + $250 sub + $200-500 AVR = $800-1100

With Refurb AVR instead:

~$350 speakers + $250 sub + $100-200 AVR = $700-800

Benefits of above options:

True bass management, possibly room to expand into larger rooms for HT with Ascend's - maybe Chanes as well depending on distance/size of room. Also get a DAC built in, able to use most digital connections like toslink, coax, HDMI.

Cons: Cost, possibly larger size.

Strict desktop setup without sub:

~$350 Chane + $150 stereo receiver = $500

Benefits of above:

Smaller footprint, simplicity, cheaper.

Cons: No bass management, no digital inputs.

Strict desktop without sub alt. suggestion:

~$350 Chane + $200 Refurb or new AVR = $550

Benefits:

Bass Management for future upgrades, digital input

Cons: slightly more expensive.



Now, you might be freaking out about a stereo speaker pair recommendation for ~$500 without even offering a sub. Remember the specs I linked you to earlier on the Chane? Pull those up. Now, this isn't your exact logitech setup but is indicative of the performance. See Strategic Deceivers break-down of a logitech setup here. They reach to about 50hz at their best, and are no-where near linear doing it. They consisted of boom and sizzle. So even a stereo Chane bookshelf system is likely a solid advantage in sound quality. I don't want you to think you must get a subwoofer as even this is a good upgrade.

I haven't even got into room acoustics yet, but at this point the speakers and associated equipment should be the primary concern - and it all depends on how deep you want to go down the rabbit hole.


Links to recommended gear:

AVR: Integra DTR-20.4 for refurb rec or Onkyo TX-SR373 for new.

Subwoofer: BIC F12

Speakers: Chane A1.4 or Ascend CBM170

Stereo Receiver: Onkyo TX-8020

You'll need a record player, wether that is by means of free or purchase, you most likely need an amp also, and speakers.
I would recommend the Audio Technica AtLp60. It's cheap at 100 bucks but gets the job done. Next get an amp. For both of these, look to Amazon. Pick up a used or open box Sony Strdh190. If you don't have one, get an Amazon card, use the gift card to help defray the cost. You could get a beans new amp for less that 100. I recommend this one cause it has a phono input. The AT60 I recommend has a preamp I believe, so you'll actually want to hook it up to input 1. But, this allows you to upgrade your turntable if you come across something better at a thrift store or from a friend later. Not all turntables have preamps, if they don't, hook it to the phono input. If they do, line 1.
If you choose to get into cassettes or CD, you also have inputs for those decks as you come across them cheap.
Speakers. With this setup, you'll want speakers that can handle the newer power levels of a modern amp. 100watts. 6 or 8 ohms. Something like a pair of Klipsch bookshelf speakers. The RM 15 I believe is a affordable, new, good sounding speaker. Or some Polks of the same power.
All this, and your set. This isn't going to be everyone's setup, but it gets you started, listenable sound, and upgradable. All this can be had relatively affordable. 100 for the turntable, 125 for the speakers, and less than 150 for the amp if you buy it new. Until you understand more about turntables, avoid used is my suggestion, buy affordable new, nothing to do but follow the instructions.

Sony STRDH190 2-ch Stereo Receiver with Phono Inputs & Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WFDR8D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hgWnDb8R2HGM2


Audio-Technica ATLP60 Fully Automatic Stereo Belt Drive Turntable - (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008872SIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hhWnDbN5KDF61


Polk Audio TSi100 Bookshelf Speakers (Pair, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00192KF12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CiWnDb6W6STNP


Klipsch R-15M Bookshelf Speaker (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMF41IY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WjWnDbS7BKBQS


These are all direct to Amazon links. Look in the used sections to get a deal on some of these and save a few bucks.
Someone mentioned it already also. Do this to love the music. Don't collect records to collect records, it's a rabbit hole of money. Just but the bands you like. Listen to an album online before you buy it to see if you'll like it if you don't know who they are. About the elusive 1dollar bin at the record store. Those records may or may not be in great shape, and do you REALLY care about polkas greatest hits from 1963? All your dad or uncles what they listen to and look for some of those records to rock out to.
Good luck. Hope this helps.

PS, my prices mentioned and names of equipment were approximate, go with what's in the links.

To start off with, here are a few things to read to get you started:

• The Vinyl Guide
  
• The Cheap Setup Thread
  
  Basically you don't want a turntable that has anything built in like speakers or a pre-amp. These are added at the expense of quality components. You will need an amp, and possibly a pre-amp if the amp you get does not have a phono input on it already. When buying a turntable, you might as well get something nice, because the upgrade itch comes hard and fast. If you already have speakers, I would recommend just using those for now. Remember though, speakers are probably the most important part of your sound chain. I would recommend keeping an eye on craigslist for something awesome. No rush, but pounce if you happen on a deal.
  
  As to what amps do. Turntables output at a very low volume. The pre-amp boosts the volume and equalizes the sound to a "line-in" level. Basically, the same output that a CD player would do. After that, you need to boost the volume to a listenable level. This is what a regular amplifier does. In order of importance, a good pre-amp can work wonders. As for regular amps, they are one of the least important parts of your signal chain as long as it isn't absolute shit and can drive your speakers. They are just boosting volume.
  
  For maintenance, there isn't too much once you get it set up and playing. Change the stylus when needed is pretty much it. Maybe the occasional lubrication once every year or two, but I've been fine so far. The only maintenance I could really think of you having to do would possibly be to spray some Deoxit if something isn't working quite like it should, but that isn't a problem. A quick search will get you taken care of there.
  
  In Myrtle Beach, this Toshiba might not be too bad, especially if you could get it for $65 instead of $75.
  
  Back home, this Pioneer PL-4 would be a nice buy as well for around $50. It also doesn't say Technics in the listing, but here is a Technics SL-1950 for $100.
  
  Considering everything works as it should, I would get the Technics SL-1950. It has more documentation on the internet, and a much better chance of help from people familiar with Technics if you have any questions. See if you can haggle to around $85-$90, but it is still probably worth the $100 if they won't budge. Note that any used turntable you buy should probably have the needle replaced as well.
  
  As for an amp and receiver, I would recommend getting something from the 70's with a silver face by Japanese companies that you have heard the names of before. Marantz, Yamaha, JVC, Pioneer, Sansui, Kenwood, etc. all made some excellent receivers. Here are a few examples of the look I am talking about. These will last a lifetime and will rock most anything you put into them. Unfortunately, with your budget and location I didn't see anything that will fit the bill.
  
  Until then, I recommend you rock something like this pre-amp for $15, and this amp for $36. Start saving and then cruise craigslist, flea markets, and antique malls for one of those vintage beasts.
  
  Holy shit, I just realized I sent a wall of text your way. I think that will get you headed in the right direction though.
  
  tl;dr: This turntable, this pre-amp, and this amp, is right at $150, and possibly less depending on your negotiating skills. Use the speakers you have for now. Buy a new needle for whatever deck you get.

Here’s why:

It actually DOESN’T sound good. Normally, I’m the kind of guy who goes “if it sounds good to you, it sounds good to you”, but Victrola/Crosley/etc brand turntables have incredibly INCREDIBLY cheap components, cheap speakers (that are part of the unit, which I’ll explain why that’s bad in a second), and a bunch more stuff, crammed in an ugly form factor for like $60.

Let’s break all that down:

Cheap components - depending on the model, the Victrola is either $60, or $110, frequently on sale for much less. We must also keep in mind the laws of economics, these machines are cheaper to make then they sell for. Let’s give a conservative estimate of $70 for the 8-in-1, and $40 for the 3-in-1.

The Audio Technica AT95E NEEDLE, not even a whole turntable, not even the cartridge it goes onto, just the needle costs $35, and that’s a cheap entry level needle.

Now ask yourself: if buying a needle is nearly as much as the whole turntable costs to make... how good are those parts? Probably not that great. In fact, the needle on most cheap turntables use ceramics, rather than diamond tips. Ceramic needles not only are harsher on records, but have a poorer quality sound overall.

Then we look at the motor, we need an even speed for playing back records, and with quartz crystals or belts, that’s fairly easy, but those systems are $$$, so we have a cheapo motor that can’t handle a constant speed leading to “wow and flutter”, fluctuations in pitch and sound caused by speed differences. Now, unless you have a really really high end deck, some amounts of wow and flutter are to be expected, but the Victrola has a high amount.

Then, the tone arm. Generally speaking, the needle shouldn’t be pressing down on a record more than 3-4 grams or so, depending on the needle/cartridge you are using. Because these things are portable, they need a solution that doesn’t get goofed up when you move it, so weight from the tone arm varies BY UNIT to 10+ grams. That’s CRUSHING your record, and actively wearing out the grooves. Now, yes, records DO wear out over time, but that’s after hundreds if not thousands of plays.

And lastly, the speakers. These are contained IN THE UNIT, meaning if you are playing loud, they are shaking the whole unit, and thus the needle, and thus reducing the sound. As well as the fact that these speakers are usually quite small, and as stated before, quite cheap.

The rest of the buffalo- So that’s just the turntable! Then you’ve crammed a cassette deck, a CD player, a radio (am and fm with antenna), a aux in, and a Bluetooth receiver in there, and you have to assume the cost of those parts are as cheap as well, so you really have a $20 turntable, $10 CD player, $10 radio, $10 cassette deck, $5 aux input, $10 Bluetooth chip, and $5 for plastic assembly and now you’re realizing you’ve paid $110 for a $70 Machine that promises too much and can’t fulfill much of what it claims to do very well.

Ugly- And then this is down to personal taste: dude, that shits just ugly. Faux wood paneling, a “retro” design that never really existed, disks and buttons everywhere. I’m not saying the LP-120 looks good, but it’s leagues better in comparison.

So that’s why it’s dumped upon.

So why would you spend $110 on a $70 machine, when you could save up about $100 more, and get a DRAMATICALLY BETTER MACHINE. Yes, it's made in China like the rest of the Victrola/Crosley tables, and yes, it has a plastic body, BUT!

It has:

• A proper Quartz Lock mechanism keeping the speed constant
  
  
• A good, starter quality needle and cartridge (the above mentioned AT95E), with the ability to CHANGE IN THE FUTURE (you can't do that on a victrola)
  
  
• A tone arm weight you can set yourself, making sure weight distribution on your records is at needle manufacture recommendations
  
  
• MUCH higher quality audio components, leading to a crisper sound
  
  
• USB out, so you can record your records
  
  
• and a built in pre-amp, so all you need is a pair of cheap bookshelf speakers, and the table, and nothing else.
  
  Or, how about only $60 more, and you could get a U-Turn Orbit. It's belt driven, so if you wanna run a record at 45 RPM you'd have to move the belt, but still, DRAMATICALLY better than the motor driving a Victrola, and again, DRAMATICALLY better parts for audio. Sure it's missing a Phono preamp, but that's only $13.
  
  In short: why would you buy a $70 machine for $110 if you could save up a bit more and get something so so so much better

I was just getting into vinyl when I was your age, and I initially found it hard navigating the most basic technical information about how to decide how to purchase and set up a turntable. Here is the most relevant stuff you need to know:

1. By default, turntables do not output sound at "line level." Basically, their signal has to be amplified by a preamplifier before it is plugged into an amplifier/receiver. However, many turntables are shipped with preamplifiers built-in (the one you have linked is one such model). This means you can plug it in to any amplifier/receiver input that accepts line level input. If you see an amplifier/receiver input labeled "phono," this input is for turntables that do not have preamplifiers, and it is probably the case that your amplifier/receiver has a phono preamplifier built-in to it.
   
   It is embarassing how many people do not understand the need for a preamplification system so please take note of this: If you ever are playing music through a turntable and it is coming through really quiet, that means you do not have a correctly operating phono preamplifier. Phono preamplifiers can be external add-ons that are placed in between your turntable and receiver/amp, internal features of your reciever/amp, or internal features of your turntable. At some point in your set-up, a preamplifer must be present.
   
   
2. Turntables power the rotation of the platter by one of two means: belt-driven mechanisms or Direct Drive motors. Belt-driven turntables rotate the platter at the same speed as Direct Drive ones, but their torque is weaker. This means that any physical restriction on the platter of a belt-driven turntable will seriously impact playback of the record and will probably physically damage the turntable. One very important consequence of this is that belt-driven turntables are thus not very useful for live DJ'ing, which frequently requires placing a lot of stress on the movement of the platter. If you're only concerned with placing a record on a platter and listening to it all the way through, then don't worry about it. There are a number of other things to consider in the belt-driven vs. Direct Drive distinction, but this is probably the most important one. The turntable you've posted is a belt-driven table.
   
   
3. Cartridges and needles come in many different types. There are two primary distinctions that must be established when talking about cartridges and needles: A) Cartridges can be either Moving Magnet (MM) or Moving Coil (MC), and B) Needles can be either conical or elliptical in shape. There's a lot of cool physics and stuff to consider here if you ever really get into vinyl, and you might start with wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_cartridge . For now, just know that these distinctions exist, and be conscious of the type of cartridge and needle you need to buy if you ever have to replace the ones on your current turntable. I believe the turntable you've posted comes shipped with a Moving Magnet cartridge and conical stylus.
   
   
4. Turntables can be "automatic," "semi-automatic," or "manual." Automatic turntables take complete control of the operation of the tonearm. You press a start button, and the tonearm moves by itself and plays the exposed side of the record. When it's done, the tonearm retracts and returns to its resting place by itself. Manual turntables require you to operate the tonearm. You must place the tonearm where you want the record to start, and you must return it when you want the record to stop. Semi-auto turntables come in a few different forms, but generally they allow some manipulation of the placement of the tonearm while retaining the ability to automatically return the tonearm to its cradle when the record is finished.
   
   
   
   Now, to answer your actual questions:
   
   
5. Is it a good turntable to purchase? That depends on your desires. Generally, you can divide turntables into three price ranges: Under $150 tables, $300-$500 tables, and +$600 turntables. You have to make a choice between a sub-$150 table and a $300-$500 table. http://www.needledoctor.com/ is a good website to use to quickly browse the many different brands of turntables available. The $300-$500 turntables will come with more features like anti-skate control (the ability to apply a force to the tonearm that pulls it away from the center of the record in case the needle ever starts "skating) and pitch control (the ability to make minute changes to the speed of the rotation of the platter, thus affecting the song's tempo and pitch. If you're just starting out and not planning on DJ'ing, you probably don't need these features.
   
   As for my personal opinions on brands, I think Audio Technica's turntables are not amazing but they're acceptable, and at $80 you can't really complain. This would be a good "starter" table, if the bug catches you like it did me you can always upgrade later. If you are willing to go the $300-$500 route, look into turntables by Technics, Vestax, Music Hall, or Pro-Ject. Be cautious about the brands Stanton, Numark, Gemini, and Ion when it comes to $300+ turntables.
   
   
6. Do you need a receiver to connect headphones? Your turntable will not have a headphone jack unless it already has an amplifier. So you will need a receiver in the sense that a receiver is an amplifier (receiver = amplifier that plays AM/FM radio and has many inputs for other devices). Receivers generally have headphone jacks.
   
   
7. You do not need to worry about 78 rpm records at this juncture unless you're really looking to find lots of music that was made in the early 20th century. Even then, a lot of it has been re-released on 33 RPM records.
   
   
8. Are vinyl records durable? They are certainly less durable than CDs when it comes to playability. Simply put, playing vinyl records is a destructive act. Since pressure equals force divided by area, even the one to two grams of force a typical needle applies to a record is divided by a very very small area (the tip of the needle), thus resulting in a great amount of pressure. Over time, records wear out from being played. Records are more durable in the sense that its a lot harder to break a vinyl record than it is to break a CD, but do know that it's really easy to hear every little scratch and dent on a vinyl record.
   
   Dust is another issue. If you're buying used records, and you will be, fighting dust will be an uphill battle. Most record stores worth their salt will clean their records with record cleaning machines before selling them; flea markets won't. Do your part to minimize the role of dust by using a carbon fiber brush on a record before playing it ( http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Anti-Static-record-cleaner-brush/dp/B0006VMBHI/ref=pd_sim_e_7 ). If you find a record store with a record cleaning machine, they usually charge about a dollar a record to wash your vinyl, or less if you're a good friend/customer. Other ways to lessen the impact of dust:
   a) use outer sleeves and inner sleeves
   b) clean your stylus regularly with a small brush that comes with it in a backwards to forwards motion
   c) use brushes and record cleaning solutions (do note that it is possible to make record cleaning solutions yourself, google it): http://www.needledoctor.com/Stanton-VC-1-Vinyl-Cleaner?sc=2&category=108
   
   Turntables are durable, but since they have more external moving parts than, say, CD players, they are more at risk to damage. The tonearm is your greatest concern. Don't let that thing get knocked around. Belts on belt-driven turntables wear out eventually, but replacing them is pretty easy.
   
   
9. Is the sound quality on vinyl superior? Depends on who you ask--and the context. The question you should be asking yourself is, "Do you enjoy the sound of a vinyl record?" It's a very particular kind of thing; some people like it, some don't. If you are really put off by tiny pops and scratches in your music, vinyl is probably not for you.

>Would this receiver work with my speakers?

It should work but it's power ratings are fudged a bit according to this review. Now your driving different speakers than he was but the overall advice given in this review is correct ( I still believe you have a receiver issue and not a power one but that's just an educated guess on my part:)

This review is for the R-S201, in order to avoid any confusion owing to the fact that all amps from this line are reviewed in the same place. PLEASE NOTE that specs on this particular model are fairly deceiving, which I hope will spare some prospective customers some trouble.

I bought this amp a while back because I was trying to create "the perfect budget HiFi" for under $250 using the famous Pioneer SB-BS22-LR speakers. These are pretty power-hungry, which is why I ran into problems with this amp. The specs according to Yamaha are "Maximum Power(8 ohms, 1 kHz, 10% THD): 100W + 100W". This might sound like adequate power, but the "100W" rating is only possible (again, according to Yamaha's own site) under the condition of allowing for 10% Total Harmonic Distortion. Typical receivers usually like to give ratings at 0.10% THD or less, which is a more accurate picture of power. But basically, the higher the THD quoted, the less "usable" power an amp has. I can tell you the R-S201 does not have 100W of power. I would say it likely has less than half of that, because it couldn't drive the Pioneer's to any reasonable volume without distorting. And by reasonable, I mean loud enough to hear when classical music is playing.

*Summing up, if your budget demands you spend no more than what this amp costs, make sure you find speakers that:

1. Have high sensitivity (preferably over 88dB). This is essentially a measure of how loud a speaker will play at a given level of power, higher being louder. Klipsch and Polk Audio come to mind. Micca's (no matter how well reviewed) are not sensitive, so I doubt they'd be any better of a match than the Pioneers.
   
2. Have an 8ohm nominal impedance rating. This is basically a measure of how easy a speaker is for the amp to drive, lower ratings being more difficult. Again, Klipsch and Polk Audio would probably be better fits.
   
   I don't want this review to look like a hater wrote it. I'm sure it's a perfectly good amp under the right conditions. If you have, or can find, speakers that fit these recommendations, you might have better luck with this amp than I did. But if you're set on, or already have, low sensitivity and/or low impedance speakers, you should consider a more robust amp/receiver - one that hasn't so badly inflated its specs.*

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $194.79 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock B450M/AC Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $69.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $59.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Blue SN500 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $64.98 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | XFX Radeon RX 5700 8 GB DD Ultra Video Card | $319.99 @ Amazon
Case | Deepcool MATREXX 50 ATX Mid Tower Case | $45.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Cooler Master MasterWatt 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $54.79 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $99.89 @ OutletPC
Custom| Lepy LP-2020A Class-D Hi-Fi Digital Amplifier with Power Supply Black| $21.90
Custom| Dayton Audio B452 4-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Pair| $27.88
| Prices include shipping, rebates, and discounts, but not taxes |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1020.08
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $1010.08
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-29 05:35 EDT-0400 |

CPU: Easily the best performer in its price range. Comes with a respectable fan.
Motherboard: PCPartPicker warns about compatibility, but this motherboard is new enough that all units support Ryzen 3000 series CPUs out of the box. Has built-in WiFi.
RAM: Good value, fast enough that it won't hold back the CPU significantly.
Storage - SSD: Great performance that doesn't degrade heavily as it fills up. Some other SSDs, such as the Intel 660p, have this problem.
Storage - HDD: 7200 RPM and isn't a used and repackaged drive like many others sometimes are.
GPU: A beast. This should easily push 144 FPS at 1080p in most games. Hopefully your monitor has FreeSync!
Case: Looks pretty good with tempered glass windows; not sure how easy it is to build in.
PSU: Semi-modular for easier cable management. Tier B on the PSU tier list. Fully 200W over PCPartPicker's estimated wattage.
OS: You could save money short-term by not buying a license key and leaving your Windows unactivated, but you only get feature/security updates for a year and there's a watermark on the desktop.
Speakers/speaker amp: I don't know a lot about this stuff myself, but these seem to be about the minimum possible for a not-terrible system according to /r/BudgetAudiophile. You'll need a 3.5mm to 3.5mm or 3.5mm to RCA cord to get the amp hooked up to your PC, I think. Better speakers for more money are Dayton B652 ($31) - Micca COVO-S ($45) - Micca MB42X ($80).

Sidebar links are a great starting point. You've got a good grasp of the beginning points.

I would recommend going with a setup that consists of a Receiver/Amplifier, Passive Speakers, and a Turntable. Yes I left out Phono Stage Amplifier, but I would personally pick a receiver that has it built in.

For a receiver if you want to go for new my two cheap but very well featured options would be the Onkyo TX-8020 and the Onkyo TX-8220. These do have built in phono inputs. Compare the features for yourself to see what seems good to you.

If you want to go used, check out eBay and do a search for "stereo receiver", You can go with anything you think is good as well as looking into the reputation of the brands/models, though it becomes hard to find reviews of old hifi equipment. Almost anything from mid-90s and before will have a phono input that will save you the phono stage purchase.

For passive speakers a very cost effective and something I use in my setup are the Dayton Audio B652 bookshelf speakers. These are decently loud and have great sound.

For a turntable going with new ones will be more expensive and you should look at the recommended ones from the sidebar as they explain it there best. If you're going used, look on eBay for "turntable" and find something that is claimed as working well and is also a recommended brand from the sidebar links. In general something decent is 100% going to have an adjustable tonearm weight, all these new bad turntables always lack this.

One last thing you didn't explicitly ask for, but you should be knowledgeable about is cartridges. You will most likely want to buy a new one for a used turntable. I would say the most cost effective cartridges are found in the range of $50 to $150, do thorough research on installing cartridges and setting them up correctly and you should be on your way to great sound.

Ok here are some answers/thoughts for you.

1. Congrats on getting some passive speakers now you need an amplifier to make them work. They don't have one included so we'll have to figure out what the best solution is for this.
   
2. For a main viewing space I like to use an AVR but they can be bigger than a soundbar. They do give you multiple inputs, remote, ease of setup and expandability. With an AVR you can expand to a full surround sound system if you choose or just add in a subwoofer for some more low end. Something like this Yamaha RX-V385 refurb $200 would be be great for you. It's an entry level receiver but for just two speakers you'll be fine with this guy.
   
3. You can get a mini amplifier if you like but you'll want one with a remote, tone controls and some digital inputs especially an optical input. The optical is important if you want to use the TV as a source as almost all TV's have an optical out but less have analogs to use. Something like this SMSL AD18 $135would be a good choice. Yes it's smaller but it doesn't like your expand to a full home theater setup, the remote is not quite as nice and I think the interface will be harder to use and smaller. However, it's a great choice if you "need" something smaller.
   
4. What are you sources going to be? If you're looking at hooking up multiple sources then the AVR would be the way to go. If you're just going to hook the TV up then either the AVR or mini amp is fine.
   
5. You'll want to order cables to hook things up. If you just want to use the TV as a source you'll need an optical audio cable $6 to come out of the TV to the amp. If you're going use the AVR and run the sources (disc player, roku, PC...) into it you'll need HDMI or analog audio cables depending on what they use.
   
6. I would consider getting some speakers stands to get the most out of your new toys. I have used these speaker stands $40 in the past with good luck They aren't expensive and allows you to get the speakers to the correct height, away from the wall and out from the TV.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   ​

Alright, here's what I've put together for you:

1. Turntable: Rega P1 ~$450
   
   
2. Speakers: JBL LSR308 - $500
   
   
3. Phono Preamp: Pyle-Pro PP444 - $10.49
   
   
4. Passive Preamp (volume control): Schiit Sys - $49
   
   
5. RCA-to-XLR cable (to connect speakers) 10' - $9.50
   
   Total: $1,018.99
   
   
   Logic:
   
   
   Turntable:
   
   Rega turntables are some of the best in the world, and their quality extends all the way down the line. I have the step-up mode, the P3, and love it. $400 is roughly the entry point for a "good" turntable, which I think is a solid investment given your budget.
   
   Speakers
   
   The JBL LSR series is very well regarded on r/audiophile. They are generally considered to be the best powered monitors on the market. Being powered means you don't have to buy a separate amplifier, saving money. If you want to save some money, you can drop down to the LSR305, which has a smaller woofer. It will not have as much bass power as the 308, but it costs $200 less for the pair (NOTE: The Amazon link is for a single speaker, not a pair)
   
   Phono Preamp
   
   You'll need one of these, because the signal coming out of the tone arm on the turntable is very low voltage. The phono preamp brings it up to a level that is powerful enough to be amplified further by the speakers. You can spend more, but you don't need more than the Pyle (I have one at home that I'd honestly mail to you, but Amazon Prime is probably cheaper than the cost of shipping for me :P)
   
   Passive Preamp
   
   This is a volume knob and a input switch. That's all. Volume knob because the speakers have the volume knob on the back, and have separate knobs per speaker. Didn't think you'd want to mess with that. Two inputs so you can hook up your turntable and your computer, or your phone, etc.
   
   RCA-to-XLR cable
   
   Because the JBL monitors are targeted at pro recording studios, they use "balanced" XLR cables instead of traditional RCA. The reasons for doing so are irrelevant, but you will need an adapter cable.
   
   If that's too much money
   
   As I said earlier, you could drop down to the JBL LSR305 (again, link is a single speaker, not a pair). That would bring the total down to $818.99. If you wanted to save money, this is where I would do it.
   
   Another option is to switch turntables to the U-Turn Orbit. It starts at $179, but I'd definitely add the cue lever for $40. I wouldn't spend more on other options though, not worth the money. If you go this route, treat this turntable as your starter, then replace it later.
   
   If you tell me your local craigslist, I can look around and see if there are any good deals, but the above is going to be pretty hard to beat.
   
   By all means, feel free to ask me any and all questions. I love doing this kind of research for people, so it's no skin off my back. I want to make sure you enjoy Ride the Lightning in all it's rifftastic glory :D

JBL LSR305 are good studio monitors for pro recording and mixing however you will need to also add a studio monitor controller.

The C-notes are said to compare well to the JBLs but are tuned more for home audio and also go a bit lower.

A bit quicker DIY build with pre-built and painted cabinets is the Dayton Audio BR-1 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Monitor Speaker Kit Pair $199 which have a good low end if definitely not adding a subwoofer. A later upgrade is a better DIY crossover.

If you don't want to DIY, but still want a neutral sounding speaker with a flat frequency response tuned for home audio, get the Wavecrest Audio HVL-1s for around $190 shipped for the pair on sale. Then add a subwoofer when you can.

Or the larger Ascend CBM-170 SE which I have in my living room and are great for music. I have the smaller Ascend HTM-200 on my small desk with a subwoofer underneath my desk.

The Infinity Reference will be a bit brighter which can be better for home theater or if you have a hard time hearing high frequencies. Same for the JBL Studio 230 $199 $399 MSRP. They are also both good for music for the price but don't have as good of a mid-range that the Ascends or even the Wavecrests do.

Or the 5.25" Wharfedale Diamond 220 $249 or 6.5" Wharfedale Diamond 225 $349 have a good warm sound for mostly music. Same for the ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 $229 which are said to have a good low end if definitely not adding a subwoofer.

Amplification:

I use a Denon stereo receiver or a Pioneer Dolby Pro Logic AV receiver both of which I found for free, placed on an 18" end table either under or off to the side of my desk. Should be easy to find a used stereo or AV receiver for under $100. Look for one with SUB out if you want to add the R12. If not, you will need a subwoofer with speaker level speaker wire inputs or use a speaker level to RCA adapter. Speaker Wire Only Sub Hookup.

For compact class A/B power, Emotiva A-100 $249. Or the Dayton Audio APA150 $135 is a clone of the discontinued Emotiva BPA-1 that the Emotiva A-100 replaced. Then speaker wire to a sub with speaker level inputs or use a speaker level to RCA adapter with with the R12.

Or a PSA Sprout, NAD 3020, or DENON PMA60 are over $400.

Or down a step to a digital class T/D mini amp, Topping MX3 $129 has a subwoofer out jack to use with the R12.

First step: have you read noaudiophile's reviews? He does very thorough reviews on a lot of budget speakers, and has corrections for many of the popular options. His corrections for the Infinity P163s that I'm currently using made them sound like completely different speakers.

First let's start with powered options:

The Micca PB42X would be a good option. They are basically a powered version of the MB42X so you don't need to purchase a separate amp. Also in the similar realm that get recommended here a lot would be the Swans D1010 and the Edifier R1280T.

Personally I'm a bigger fan of passive speakers, as you get a lot more options to expand your system.

Pioneer BS22 bookshelf speakers are great and have gone on sale quite a bit lately for $70-80/pair.

Dayton B652 I am currently using as my surround speakers, but people rave about them as a budget desktop option

Micca MB42X also get great reviews.

You could also go used for your speakers, but sometimes it can be hard to parse through all the junk out there if you don't know what you're looking for.

Take any of those passive options and pair them up with an inexpensive amp like this SMSL or Lepai for a good budget setup.

I would also recommend checking your local Craigslist or Facebook marketplace for a used receiver, you could pick up a very decent one for just a few bucks and have a great starting setup. This will give you a lot more powerful amp, and the ability later to easily add a subwoofer or expand to surround sound. Personally I'm using an older Sony home theater receiver at my desk, it's old enough that it doesn't have HDMI or optical inputs, someone was just giving it away so I snagged it.

Those are great speakers!

They lack low end but paired with a nice small subwoofer they would we great!

However, I would personally recommend a good pair of 3-ways. 3-ways produce a more full sound without the added need of a subwoofer. You are not going to get the same earth shattering bass a dedicated sub would provide, but you will get true stereo bass that is more true to the mix engineers orignal intent, and often still quite dramatic.

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SSCS5-3-Driver-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00O8YLMVA

Other Peoples Opinion:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sony-core-series-sscs5.694183/

The AT-LP120 is a great table but I would personally recommend swapping out the cartridge right away. I know a few people with this player and the Oftofon 2M red sounds great! Just a thought!

http://www.needledoctor.com/Ortofon-2M-Red-Phono-Cartridge

College kid here, I'll try to help out.

It's generally recommended that you don't ever go for a HTIAB (home theater in a box) as they come with super shitty components and most often don't leave room to upgrade.

You'll get more flexibility and bang for your buck with bookshelves and a sub, but as you mentioned you only want a 2.0 for right now. If bass is really that important to you, I would actually recommend you get a pair of bookshelves now and invest in a sub later on. Towers are great but for a 2.0 setup you're going to want something smaller with better sound quality.

 

---

Bookshelves: used Polk Signature S15's

>Top listing is $165 for like new speakers; S15's run for $229/pair new.

This listing in particular says "Speakers only, nothing else is included" which is odd for them to mention because I don't think these speakers normally come with any accessories. Maybe he's talking about the manual which can easily be found online. But who needs manuals anyway?

 

Amp: SMSL SA-50

>Price fluctuates between $63 and $69. This listing is $63.

Puts out 50 wpc, will power pretty much any speaker you throw at it. I owned this myself and recommend it for a first setup. Just keep in mind you will have to upgrade to a surround receiver if you ever want to move past 2.1 in the future.

---

 


This puts you at $228 shipped. A bit above your absolute max of $200, but this is probably your best bet. You're also going to need to buy some speaker wire. It's only like $8.

So in total, this comes to $236 shipped. A bit above your budget, but it leaves you with some kickass bookshelves as well as the ability to add a sub in the future.

So I'm moving to college in NYC in the fall, and I've been faced with the issue of how to fit my turntable in my dorm. I didn't want to lug my whole stereo setup there as it would take too much room, but it was looking like I had to. Until just now!

I got this speaker as a graduation gift so I had a speaker to connect my phone to in the dorms. It looks (and is) tiny but the sound quality is honestly pretty great - good stereo image, clear highs, low lows, etc. If I turn it up about halfway and leave it on my bed I can feel the bass vibrating through my mattress. Naturally it isn't up to par with, say, a vintage amp paired with some great speakers and there isn't an EQ on it (or at least I haven't discovered one), but sacrifices ya know?
I connected my turntable's stereo jacks to the preamp I already had for my existing setup (found here), then ran an [adaptor cable](https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1465788718&sr=1-4&keywords=stereo+to+aux is the one I use) to the aux input on the speaker. Works like a charm!

I thought this would come in handy for anyone moving to an area with little space (like a dorm) who still wants to hold on to their record collection. Happy listening!

Oh sorry, it's hard to not go all jargon-crazy sometimes.

So studio monitors are designed for mixing audio, as such they're designed to be very very accurate. The flat response means if you plot a line representing all the audible frequencies from bass to the highest treble the line would be flat, so no boosted bass or lowered midrange or any of those things people usually fiddle with knobs to do. Just dead accurate, which lots of people think they want until they hear it, mids and highs can get a little tiring to listen to and is sometimes considered not a "warm" sound.

B&W is Bowers and Wilkins, a very good brand and I just meant find some from the 1980's because they crop up for sale used from time to time and sound great (check craigslist for B&W, Mission, Elac, Mirage, PSB and Wharfedale). Other options that aren't used would be Cambridge Audio SX50's, Elac B6.2's, and Wharfedale Diamond 210's. (Tons of reviews of all of those out there) As for an amp, the SMSL SA50 is plenty for most people for normal listening levels.

As for a DAC, you wouldn't necessarily need one for active monitors, but you would definitely need some interesting cables like these shitty ones. One of the advantages of pro-audio gear is they use balanced audio signals which makes long runs of cable safe from electromagnetic interference/noise/hum, most people don't have runs long enough for it to matter in their house but they look cool and "pro". Also to actually have a balanced signal going through those XLR cables you need a balanced output, which is where a DAC with balanced outputs or volume controller would come in. Here's a cheap ok controller.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to talk you out of studio monitors, speakers are super super super subjective and if I encountered a set of studio monitors that really blew my skirt up I'd probably buy all the balanced cables and some huge volume knob to be able to listen to them and be happy as a clam. Just hasn't happened yet.

for the price, the LSR305 and sub is the best value at the $500 mark

you used euro, so I'm gonna link german amazon. Klipsch R-15M is a decent speaker. there's probably better for €200, but you won't be disappointed. the Auna AV2 looks pretty nice, but I've never actually used or seen too much of it, but the reviews seem good and it looks pretty good. Pioneer A-10 is also a good option. those two plus tax will probably hit your budget (not sure how much tax is), but if you have some money, it might be worth grabbing a sub

you can also try a different pair of powered speakers. these Edifiers are pretty decent as well, and they're well within your budget if you don't actually want to spend the full 500

Hey Zeos! I want to thank you so much for your guide. I just started looking at making a home theater setup yesterday for the very first time and it was pretty daunting at first. After reading through your posts and several others at /r/hometheater I have it narrowed down to a couple of options and would appreciate some advice on the selections I've made. I apologize for the long post but I want to make sure I make the most informed decisions for my first home theater purchase.

I just purchased the 65" Samsung JS8500 and I have an Xbox One that will be my main bluray player for now with a focus on movies / games.

Through my research last night and going through your suggestions at the top of this thread, I've chosen the Denon AVR-S510BT.

My question is in regards to speakers. Last night I had decided on the Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers with the accompanying Center since it's my first system and I was thinking of trying out something cheaper for an intro setup which would be better than just my TV speakers.

Whenever I get into a new hobby I tend to start thinking of an intro setup and get sucked into the nice expensive parts because I believe in "buy once cry once". I'd hate to get the Micca's and then a year later want to upgrade them to something nicer anyways when I could have just spent a bit more and got something that would have lasted me longer.

edit after more reading and watching your videos I see you recommending the Elacs quite a bit, I know you mentioned they would be great for music and I loved how they sounded, is this the case with movies and games as well? My budget is pretty open if it's for the right items and I can afford the Elac 6.5"s or something in that similar price range like the HTD Level3's (loved that sound demo too) if they would really make the whole setup shine and last me for years to come.

If I do end up choosing more expensive speakers and could only purchase one or the other to start with, would you recommend a Center speaker or a Subwoofer like the BIC America F12?

Thank you so much in advance, I appreciate all the time you've taken to write up these guides and answer questions.

You have many many options! I would lurk around the sub for a while to get some ideas. The suggestions that come to mind:

For speakers, going from lowest to highest price, I'd check out the Micca MB42x's, the Fluance SX6's, and the ELAC B5's.

The SMSL SA50 is a nice budget amp but (if you have the space for it) a used receiver is the best bang for your buck and will likely be more powerful.

I have the MB42x's. They're quite capable and will do just fine for me for some time. Just remember that there are so many options out there. Do your best to find the right setup for you.

Just to get started, I'd check out Zoes' 2.0 Desktop Suggestions list from his suggestions sub. His influence as a youtuber is a bit of a controversial topic on this sub but I'd say he has some good suggestions. Good luck and have fun!

Edit: I should also mention that it's always useful to demo equipment if you can. Hit up a local audio shops and demo some gear if you have the time.

If it were me and you really want to upgrade your sound now, but also want to have the ability for a full 5.1 sound later I'd check out craigslist. You can probably find an older 5.1 receiver for under $70. A quick look in my area brought up a few. A few months ago I sold a 12 year old Pioneer that still was great, but I wanted the ability to get music via my network/internet. I sold it for $60. Then I would look for 2 decent book shelf speakers that you would use for fronts now and later use them for rears. These are as low as they go according to camelizer https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510803743&sr=1-3&keywords=polk+bookshelf+speakers&dpID=31bhM1nV3tL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch Then I'd get a sub https://www.amazon.com/Polk-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer-Single/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510803898&sr=1-3&keywords=polk+subwoofer&dpID=51JGYWW4N4L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
That would get you started and would kick the shit out of any 2.1 soundbar. So you'd be looking at $140 for the 2 speakers and sub and then w/e you could find on craigslist for an a/v receiver. If you can stretch your budget to about $300 you could grab this which is certified refurbished https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs510bt/denon-avr-s510bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html
None of this is going to be wireless. IF you can stretch out to $400 you could get this receiver which I really like for the price: https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrx1300w/denon-avr-x1300w-7.2-ch-x-80-watts-networking-a/v-receiver/1.html

Keep in mind you'll have to buy some speaker wire and a crimping/cutting tool. But yeah about $400 will get you a decent setup like Mtown said.
The best way to go about buying home theater equipment is to buy stuff that you'll use later. So if you have a soundbar now, I'd just use it and save up until you have enough for a decent refurbed 5.1 av receiver ~$250 and some bookshelf speakers ~50-100.

If you absolutely need a 2.1 soundbar. I bought a refurbed lg sh4 2.1 for about $130 on amazon. I believe they are more now. It's enough for a small room. I use it for my office and it's decent.

You can probably get better advice about starting up a ht system by searching r/hometheater.

If you want to go the passive route, a decent setup would probably be around $150-200. If you want something with a tuner, a receiver would be a good choice over an amp.

Right now, you can get this Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver on Amazon or Best Buy for $119 which is an excellent deal. Usually this receiver costs $149 or more and Yamaha makes some of the best budget stereo receivers. Sometimes you can find this Insignia Stereo Receiver for about $99, but right now it costs higher than the Yamaha and is not worth it. Those are probably your best deals on receivers right now that won't break the bank. Most other receivers will cost you about $150 to start.

You can find a lot of good speakers under $150 and a few under $100. What you need to do is sign up for Fry's Electronics newsletter. Just this last week they sent a coupon code in my email to get the Pioneer SP-BS22-LR speakers for $58! Super good deal. Normally cost just over $100. They are sold out now, but this deal pops up quite often and they are well worth that price.

Here are more great speakers around $100 or less:

Micca MB42X speakers - $90.

Polk T15 - $100

Dayton Audio B652 - $30

Dayton Audio B652-AIR - $44

JBL Arena B15 - $79

I will admit your budget will be quite hard to work with. Never the less. You will want a Turntable that have a built in pre-amp unless you go vintage, but someone else will have to help you with that as I do not know anything about vintage TTs.

You will also want some active speaker/s, these speakers have a built in receiver so everything will work, you'll have volume control and so on.

Because your budget is in dollars I am guessing you are American, you could try and wait until the black friday deals kicks off, I know you can get some great stuff at heavily discounted prices.

Alternatively you could get the turntable and a receiver with a headphone input so you could listen through headphones. My receiver has a 6.5 mm input so it was just a matter of getting a 6.5mm adapter for a standard 3.5mm headphone jack. Maybe a second hand receiver like this, https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-8020-channel-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00EE18O7W/ref=sr_1_8?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1541538031&sr=8-8&keywords=Turntable+receiver is worth looking at?

I think waiting until black friday is a good thing to do first. You may even be able to pick up a better turntable, maybe the Audio technica LP 120 for less, I think it was selling at $170 in some places last year looking back through the posts, and at that price you cant beat it, and it still has a built in pre-amp.

I'm sure they'll be other people on here who will help you too. Just reply if you want to ask anything.

The cheap player might do some damage when playing them over time, but there's not much you can do about that one until you can afford to upgrade. Mind you all record players do this, but the cheaper ones will be harder on your records over a shorter period of time.

In the meantime, I'd recommend getting a record cleaning brush (this is just an example, you can buy whichever one you prefer) and use it to gently brush dust and dirt off the record. Even new ones will often have some paper residue on them from their sleeves.

A good idea would be to also buy some polylined innersleeves (again, an example, but these are amongst the best - you can find cheaper ones, just make sure they're polylined and not just plain paper sleeves). Often new (and used) records come in cheap paper innersleeves. These does not prevent static buildup (quite the contrary) and can cause some nasty scuffs on your records over time as well as leaving fine paper residue in the record grooves.

Finally, you can buy some plastic/PVC outer sleeves. These are not strictly necessary, and often they protect the album cover more than the actual album. But they'll keep your covers looking nicer for a longer period of time and reduce the risk of damage in case you spill stuff or, God forbid, your record room floods. There are several types of these and which ones you should use is essentially up to personal preference. Don't store your records directly in these without their cover or sleeve though, as some of these outer sleeves can leave plastic residue on the discs over time.

There are also record cleaning equipment. This is most often used for used albums, but are also good for new ones. I'd recommend googling around for information about that and see what you think is good enough as record cleaning is a new hobby in itself and people can't seem to agree entirely on best practices.

I hope this helps a little bit :)

Excellent point...and pretty much why I decided on trying to get an AV installer...I'm completed baffled where to put them.

• I was considering the Polk Aurdio OWM3 in white or the Micca COVO-S compact bookshelves after seeing Zeo's review of them...they seemed like they would potentially could be slipped into an arm of some sort, mounted at G0 or L0, and angled down towards the main viewing area without being too obvious.
  
  
• Then I learned how important it was to be at ear level from a prior post. At the time I was so desperate that I was considering trying to do wireless surrounds as bookshelves that I could just move into place on movie night at positioned marked "Gx and Lx (near the middle of the wall)" since "G0 or L0 (Mounted on the upper wall)" didn't seem very reasonable since it was so off of ear level. I figured that on movie night I could just use a rocketfish setup to slide a surround into position @ Gx or Lx and plug one of them in for a few hours...and maybe keep one on a windowsill (@ Gx) ready to go to make it even easier.
  
  
  
• Completely confused, I had a local AV installer stop out and they suggested that perhaps mounting at G0-2 or L0-1 may actually be possible. They even thought that a bipole (or even a monopole) would be possible. Ultimately they suggested the Paradigms bipoles listed above.
  
  
• Honestly bipoles or monopoles (Eg Polk Aurdio OWM3 or Micca COVO-S) don't matter too much to me...as unobtrusive as possible would be preferred. Bipoles sound like perhaps they may be better for non-standard seating at a love seat, at the kitchen table watching TV, or just playing some music for the holidays...but I'm certainly open to suggestions!
  
  
• I was considering asking for an alternate surround from what the AV installer, but quite honestly, I don't know how to best compare them with my current layout, equipment and future plans. Could a ceiling speaker be added in or sliding a wireless speaker into Gx or Lx in the next 5-10 years? I have no idea...it sounds great in theory, but I have no clue what would be recommended or most flexible. But if there is an installer that can help out and provide guidance, Im more than willing to go with whatever they recommend

https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/speaker-system-z906

Waste your money if you want, but I gave you my answer.

Though FUSSYNYANKO has the alternate advice - DAC, Stereo Amp, Speakers - that's what I have on my computer. Onkyo TX-8255 (50w/ch Receiver), Q Acoustic 3020 Speakers. For outputs from the Computer, I just use the built in RealTek Sound Card. A USB DAC would be better, but the direct Analog Outs of the Sound Card are good enough for what I need.

Note: In a Stereo System, we can come up with components costing considerably less than my system which is about $450 to $500. If a Separate Stereo System is the way you want to go, we can make some suggestion in that area that are closer to your budget.

Here is one very good example of a very compact, powerful, and versatile Computer Amp -

SMSL AD18 - $145 -

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/

Here is a Review of the AD18 Amp highlighting all the features -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEooiaet9eQ

Possible speaker to combine with that Amp -

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamns6490/yamaha-ns-6490-8-3-way-bookshelf-speakers-black-pair/1.html

The Above Yamaha Speakers are 8". Make sure you have room for them. Z Reviews also has a very positive review on the Yamaha NS-6490 -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez05YLveZTE

More speakers -

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamns333/yamaha-ns-333-5-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-black-pair/1.html

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/bosa25gba/boston-acoustics-a25-5.25-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-gloss-black-each/1.html

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/cantplusgxl3whta/canton-plus-gxl.3-5-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-white-pair/1.html

Canton is an extremely popular brand in Europe. They are also available in Black for $10 more.

Now if you want a 2.1 speaker system or a 5.1 speaker system ... cool... your money ... your life. But those all encompass very tiny main speakers, and an overblown underpowered droning Subwoofer. I would rather it sounded good than tinny and overly bassy.

Still, that's not my choice to make. Logitech sells millions of Computer Speaker systems of all types, and for what they are, and what they cost, they are fine. Not my choice ...but fine.

I have just purchased my first turntable, a Technics SL-B2, from eBay, and it will be here in ten days. So now I have ten days to put together a preamp +amp +speaker set-up-thing that really freaks me out. Which leads me to my questions for y'all...


Option 1

Right now I have these things in my amazon cart. I'm really just trying to get my feet wet with this stuff (without breaking the bank), but I don't know if these things go together/would work as a whole. My main worry is the fact that I have no idea how to do a ground wire... I'm relatively confident that I could connect the TT to the preamp, and the preamp to the amp, but from there I'm lost (any advice would be welcome).


Option 2

This is a craigslist entry somewhat-local to me (about 1.5 hours away), that came up when I typed in "phono receiver". Is this a preamp, amp, and speaker all in one? Is it too good to be true? How would this then connect to the TT?

Background

Having already purchased the record player, I'm hoping to keep the rest of the set-up below $120, and preferably closer to $80. I understand these are very slim margins, but my hope is to start with the bargain-basics, and to then (hopefully) upgrade piece-by-piece with the coming-Christmases and Birthdays.

Also, given that I do plan to upgrade my set-up in pieces, I'm leaning towards Option 1 because it seems it would be easier to swap out parts over time...

Overall

I'm just hoping for general advice, well wishes, whatever y'all can give me. I've done a lot of research but without all the parts in my hands I just can't visualize putting it all together, and could use y'all's experience. Really, I'm just itching to finally play some records!

Please help! And thanks in advance:)

Sorry for all the questions.. really appreciate your answers, you've given me more detail than anybody I've talked to at the audio/video stores I go into. Can I buy you a beer somehow? :)

I have one final question I think... my wife chose a TV Stand/Media Console to house all this stuff, and I only have 5.67" of height for the center speaker, so unfortunately that rules out the Dayton Audio set, as well as the Pioneer set I brought up earlier.

So I'm looking at one of two options, first this Micca setup:

Micca MB42X for Front L/R and Rear L/R
Micca MB42X-C for Center (5.3 inches tall, fits my needs)
~$330 CAD for the set of 5 speakers, not bad!
https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00HHFBEK6

(Instead of the MB42X, maybe the RB42? https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-RB42-Reference-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B07JC416LG/ Seems better reviewed, would add $120 to the price to do those front and back, or just $60 more to do those in the front and still have MB42X in the rear)

(Another option is just to get 5 MB42X-C's?... Or 3 for the front and 2 MB42X at rear)

or this Polk setup.. only other decently priced one I found with a small center.. but this center is much smaller than the Micca:

Polk Audio TL2 for Center
https://www.amazon.ca/Polk-Audio-Speaker-Center-Channel/dp/B0043M667M
Polk T15 for Front L/R and Rear L/R
https://www.amazon.ca/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-7-25-Inch/dp/B002RJLHB8
~$458 CAD for the set of 5 speakers

(Another option is the T300 set for $150/pair. Shaves $40 off the overall price, not sure if there's much difference there. https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/polk-audio-polk-audio-t300-100-watt-bookshelf-speakers-pair-t300/10166613 )

I'm not a big fan of the look of the TL2 Bookshelf speakers.. so went for the T15/T300 instead.

Curious if you have any opinions about which to pick.. I'm leaning towards the Micca because they fill the shelves better and the reviews online seem to be decent, and the tiny TL2 center from Polk is... tiny.

To pair with all this I have a Polk Audio PSW10 subwoofer.. which gets alot of hate around here but seems more than powerful enough for my needs. Got it last night and hooked it up and I'm running it at about 10% on the gain dial and it's more than enough for what I need.. will probably piss off my neighbours (semi-detached home) even at that level.

Again, thanks for your help, really appreciate folks like you that take the time to answer threads and help people out with their questions.

EDIT: All the above said.. after listening to a dozen reviews or so on the Micca line-up.. I think I'm leaning towards either:

1. RB-42 front and back, and MB42X-C center (really just because I can't get the RB-42C in Canada). This sounds like I'd have alot more bass in the RB-42, but they are weak at high volumes. Filling a large room like I'll have these in would be difficult, although most of the time I'm sitting fairly close to the speakers when watching TV, this would only be an issue while listening to music in the room somewhere other than the couch infront of it.
   
   
2. MB42X-C x 5 all around. More power and higher sensitivity and they seem to keep their clean sound at higher volumes. Less bass per speaker.. but I have the sub in the setup so hopefully that helps fill that gap (even though it's a PSW10).
   
   Long post, sorry... rambling a little as I go back and forth between options.

I'm new to the vinyl world. Still actually trying to build a 2.0 system as well.

I just read the guides (both the receivers and turntables under $500) and seeing that I need a pre-amp if there's none built in. I'm trying to have a bit of a budget with the entire set up (receiver, speakers, turntable). I was definitely considering the U-Turn because it's under $200 but I need a preamp.. so hopefully I could get some guidance on everything I need to get started.

• Speakers - ELAC B5 Bookshelf Speakers
  
  Any thoughts on Pro-Ject speaker box or Music Hall Mariamba 2-way passive speaker?
  
  
• Receiver - Yamaha RX-V381 5.1
  
  
• Turntable - Fluance RT-80, Marantz TT42P? Saw the Audiotechnica LP120 as well but would ideally like to be under $250. If it's better to just spend the extra money for reasons like quality, then I'm certainly not going to reject the option.
  
  I do see some turntable packages on TurnTableLab but are they going to suit my idea of converting my set up into a home theater system in the future?
  
  Ideally I'd like my entire set up to be around $700 or less.
  
  Anything maybe I should be changing or upgrading by spending a little more for some better features/quality?

Sorry this doesn't (directly) answer your question, but at your budget, I think you're better off starting off with a 2.0 system than 2.1. A decent pair of speakers will have better bass extension (goes lower frequency with better clarity) than a cheap subwoofer. It's kind of only worth getting a sub if you can spend more than ~$100 on it, which would put too much strain on your budget. Wait until you save up a little more and expand a 2.0 system to include a sub.

For equipment recommendations, I'll start with the amp, since that has the least amount of flexibility. The cheapest component worth recommending is the Muse M50, but it's not great and doesn't give you a lot of room to expand. The Audiosource AMP-100 is a very capable amp at around $100. A receiver would give you A/V control, but will cost significantly more. Fortunately, there are tons of decent receivers on Craiglist for ~$50 if you're interested in going the used route.

My recommendation to those on a budget is to buy a used receiver for the amplifier. A nice balance of Good Enough quality and low cost.

For speakers, you have a ton more options that really depends on how much budget you have left after the amp. Two suggestions to get started: Pioneer and BIC. The BIC's are more home theater speakers, rather than something for a desk. They get loud, but at a higher cost.

You could also go used again. I love older B&W stuff, and you can probably find some of their speakers used in your budget.

Hey! Stoked on your purchase! Curious though, did you mean LP120?
But hope I can help answer your questions!

1. I tend to not, the main dust cover is plenty imo.
   
2. A stylus brush, a wet anti static record brush, along with the one you have in your post. Basically just cleaning tools. Another good buy is one of these record sleeve packs. Once you start collecting, its best to replace the paper sleeve a new record would come with or an old sleeve from the thrift store. Keeps the records in their best shape. Lastly, one thing ive been eyeing is one of these. Seems to have some pretty good reviews.. haha
   
3. Stick er on the turntable, turn it on and use the wet brush for a few rotations. NEVER move the brush in terms of side to side motions, always let the spinning do the work. This video has some tips on cleaning, give er a watch
   Hope my answers help!! Enjoy your new turntable!! Whatcha listening to??

Yep. Which is why they are mostly used in a desk setup. The smsl Q5 (only 50 watts) has a remote, but for $140 I would just look for a receiver. Many more options like digital connections and room correction software. Upgrading to a receiver was the best audio upgrade I've done. Hardcore audiophiles might scoff at receivers for no good reason, but for someone starting out, they are awesome.

I scored a refurbished yamaha 375 for like $130 on amazon. Crazy good deal. The 377 is $170 from amazon warehouse.

The yamaha stereo receiver is also another option with a remote at just $150. Two pairs of 2 channel. Also much easier to connect a sub to a receiver than a 2 channel amp.

Hit up accessories4less for other refurb deals too. Yamaha, denon, onkyo are what I would look out for. Usually good amazon deals on those too.

I'm like you, OP. I also am philosophically opposed to spending more on audio than on screen. That being said, good speakers do last for a very long time: if new formats ever come out, you can always upgrade the receiver and you can keep your speakers forever.

I did a lot of searching and I ended up with a good compromise that allowed me to have a LG OLED 65 together with a set of solid speakers.

​

Here's what you need to know:

​

- The latest OLED TVs are pretty much the same as last year's. LG B7, C7, B8 or C8 are all the same TV pretty much. Get the cheapest you can find. I bought mine on greentoe.com. I offered 1900$ for a 65' B7 this past April and my offer got accepted. You can even try to price match it with your credit card, I think (search in this sub). This may save you a few dollars more. Bottom line is: you should be able to snatch a 65 OLED for ~1500-1900.

- You can order a refurbished sub for a fraction of the price. I have the Denon X1400H that u/robotdinofight recommended, and I also bought it from accessories4less.

- Atmos speakers are mostly marketing BS. There isn't much sound that comes from above you in movies. That Denon is compatible anyway, so you can always add them later. Before you do that, just go watch a movie in Atmos at a theater.

- Sorround speakers are not that important either. Your dialogue is coming from the center speaker, and music etc will be on the front channels, with just some in your sorrounds more for ambiance than anything else. You can go with *very cheap* speakers here. Source: Zeos's guide here. I ended up buying the cheapest speakers Zeos recommended: Micca Covo-s for 40$ the pair (a factor in my decision was also that I had the speaker stands I was using for the cheap Logitech 5.1 PC system I had. Speaker stands are expensive too so factor in that cost too). These speakers are honestly not great: I tried using a pair of ELAC B6 and yes, sorround was much better. But I like HDR and perfect blacks way more than better sorround, so I ended up returning the ELACs and kept the Miccas as my rear. Maybe I'll upgrade some other time.

- If you are like me and have neighbors and a wife who's not into loud explosion, you really don't need a crazy sub. I have the Elac S10 and that's *more* than enough for us, my wife wants me to keep it down. Get a cheap one! Mine was only about 100$. See Zeos's guide here: https://www.reddit.com/comments/5b1u99

- Invest in good fronts. I have the ELAC B6.2 and while I don't think they sound like the crazy expensive speakers that some friends have, they sound *much* better than a soundbar/integrated TV sound and are great for movies! Important: whatever you buy, you must buy a center channel that matches the left/right speakers. I have the ELAC Debut 2.0 C6.2 center, with the ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers as my L/R channels.

- Buy cheap speaker wire and strip it yourself!! I'm so bad with practical stuff that I was a bit intimidated by it, but honestly it's ridiculously simple. The guide that I liked before has a section on wires, read it. The sub has its own cable, remember to buy it (I bought the Amazon one).

- Buy cheap HDMI cables from AmazonBasics.

- I have these stands for my fronts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PYV7LQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Compared to u/robotdinofight's guide, you lose some sound quality, but only where it matters least and you should save some 700$, enough money to go from the TCL to a LG OLED. Hope it helped!

All right guys, I just had to take a picture of the two speakers together because, as you can see, compared to the diminutive MK402 the Elacs are simply HUGE. I kept the mouse in the pic to give you an idea (sorry, I checked, I had no bananas!).

Their size is something you should be aware of, especially if you are going to keep em -like me- as monitors on a desk.

A little background on my system: I use mainly Tidal hi-res streaming as source. The PC is hooked via USB to an external dac, an AUNE X1S, line out of the DAC goes into a Dayton DTA-120 (the real hero of this story, spoilers!!!) that powers the speakers.

Right out of the box, I position the Elacs on the desk (on foam absorbers for studio monitors, you might notice em under the elacs in the pic), hook em up, and Im shocked. They sound exactly like the MK402... wtf?

Well the first lesson is, guys, believe in break-in. I had the same thing happening with the MK402. They sounded a bit crappy and harsh at first, but sloooooooooooowly the sound mellowed and became fuller. Fact is it happened so progressively I always had the doubt it was my ear/brain adjusting to their sound more than break-in.

This time around, though, it happened in a matter of just an hour and possibly less. Something definitely "loosened up" inside the ELACS, and oh boy... the poor daytons were blown out of the water.

First thing you will notice is the obvious one. The Elacs will go lower... and DEEPER. Please be aware that the MK402 go crazy low for their size. You can easily be shocked at the bass they can "magically" let out... but it definitely lacks that punch and that fullness that the ELACS will provide with an easiness that is honestly disarming. One of their strong points is that they sound (and they will go LOUD!) like they dont even care. You crank the volume and they just shrug and give you volume and power, never losing their composture, whereas the MK402 will totally break down and will start showing signs of ...suffering?

Second thing you'll notice is... despite their BIG size, they are muuuuuuuch easier to position. The Mk402 are extremely, extremely fussy. Push them one inch too close to the rear wall, the bass goes so muddy you wanna kill yourself, pull em one inch too far and the bass becomes anemic and the "magic" disappears. I guess Mr Andrew Jones did the right thing putting the reflex on the baffle instead of the more typical rear exhaust. But it doesnt end there. the biggest difference is the dispersion. The MK402 CAN sound awesome and "flat" but you must almost lock your head in a very precise and narrow position. Move sideways or a little back and forth and some frequencies will overwhelm others. with the Elacs... well, I'm flabbergasted. You can almost move around the room and you'll hear the frequencies pretty much the same way in every position.

Obviously the Elacs -I suspect for the same reason: dispersion- will give a much better holographic presentation, but Im still working on the placement and my room is really fussy so maybe I'll update you guys later when I finally manage to make the speakers "disappear", which was something simply impossible to achieve with the Daytons (believe me... I tried).

Third thing you'll notice (as they keep breaking in, becoming more and more transparent) is how comparatively analitic they are. Listening to Steely Dan's "I got the news" the infamous scratching/clicking around 2:17 made me jump on the seat, I litterally thought something was faulty and breaking!

After a while, though, the biggest and most shocking realization is how nonchalantly the little class-D amplifier from Dayton is driving the Elacs. The speakers are quite efficient, yes, but I was ALMOST sure I would need a better amplifier (my eyes are on the NAD326BEE, always been a big fan of NAD sound), but Im not so sure anymore. Volume knob is at hour ten/eleven (it will go as far as hour five) and the room is filled with a smooth, relaxed, full sound. Maybe the NAD can wait!

Okay, I'll shut up for now. I'll leave here a few links with all the aforementioned gear for reference, especially price-wise.

Aune DAC

Dayton D-Class Amp

Dayton MK402

Elac B6.2


*edited endless times for clarity and cause I do thousands of typos.

I did it in 2017 when I hit 365 albums. I tried for one a day, just whatever I felt like listening to. Some days I did 2 or 3. Some days none if I didn't have the time.

Do you have them catalogued on Discogs? You can do an export as a CSV and open that in excel or google sheets to keep track. Using the random button on discogs helps a lot too if you can't decide.

It was neat. A couple of times some songs convinced me to reconnect with some old friends. A couple albums I decided I just wasn't into any more and turned off after a couple of songs.


If you're really into keeping them in good shape, this is also a great chance for you to change the inner sleeves to something better and to give each record a cleaning.

It's also a great way to decide if you want to sell any of them.

Have fun and enjoy it!

I'm not a guru, but to my understanding at 300$ price range you want to start looking at AMP + Bookshelf Speakers for music.

I came to that conclusion with couple days of looking at forums and threads.

Even more so in US and I'm from EU.

​

and even before that price point some Active Studio Monitors or Active Bookshelf are better quality than Edifiers R series already.

More clarity, more depth and tighter bass, but I cannot speak for Edifier S series, they are supposedly good.

Adam, JBL, Mackie MRT, Klipsch, M-Audio, PreSonus, KRK and some more active brands I'm forgetting.

​

But at that price you can be looking at some proper Amp + Passive Speakers combos.

​

If you need Mini-amps for desk and on budget:

SMSL SA-50 68$

Dayton Audio DTA 2.1BT2 95$ - recommend this one for punchy bass and features

You could probably find some good new and used amps, if you can use bigger sized ones.

But like I said I'm no guru.

​

Bookshelf speakers:

ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 275$

KEF Q100 357$

Q Acoustics 3020i 299$

Q3020 non i version which I tried with Dayton Audio DTA 2.1BT v1. lacked bit bass, decided to go for Mission LX-2 they still haven't arrived.

But they do not seem available in US.

​

​

No worries, this just means a 2.1 or 3.1 is perfect for now, and then you can add on later.

Option 1:

2x RSL CG3 Bookshelf @ $135 = $270

1x RSL Speedwoofer 10s (sold out until Oct) @ $400

1x Denon AVR-X3500H 7.2-Ch x 105 Watts A/V Receiver from Accessories4Less @ $500

Total: $1170

Less of a budget stretcher, giving up a bit of performance. That receiver is realistically future proof (supports 7.2, 4k) and wouldn't need to upgrade for quite some time. More clear upgrade path however. In this scenario, when you want to upgrade, you get 3x RSL CG23s to be your new front speakers and move the CG3 you already own to the sides as your surrounds.

Option 2:

2x ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers @ $300 (comes in a pair)

1x Bic Acoustech PL-200 II Subwoofer @ $300

1x Denon AVR-X3500H 7.2-Ch x 105 Watts A/V Receiver from Accessories4Less @ $500

Total: $1100

About the same as option 1, and would come down to preference to RSL vs Elac (if you can demo Elac at a store, please do, RSL is internet direct only but does have in home trail). Similarly easy upgrade path, you'd just fill it out with the rest of the Elac Debut 2.0 B6.2 lineup (ie center, they even have some on walls for surrounds).

Option 3:

2x RSL CG23 @ $200 = $400

1x RSL Speedwoofer 10s (sold out until Oct) @ $400

1x Denon AVR-X3500H 7.2-Ch x 105 Watts A/V Receiver from Accessories4Less @ $500

Total: $1300

This requires a budget stretch, but gets you great stereo performance with a clear upgrade path. For speaker upgrade, you add the 3rd RSL CG23 for your center (these can be used horizontally or vertically FYI), and then whatever you want for surrounds (either the RSL CG3 or an on wall, ect)

Based on these numbers you can see you have about $300 for the speakers, so any speakers you can get for $150 each would work here. Other options are Fluance Signature Series HiFi ($200 for pair), Jamo S 803 ($160 for pair), or Q Acoustics 3020i Bookshelf ($300 for pair). I haven't heard any of these, but they get good reviews (particularly the Q Acoustics).

You could always go less on the receiver, but then you might have to buy a new one later. Would be nearly impossible to go lower on the subwoofer, the BIC and the RSL Speedwoofer are about as good as it gets for that price.

Finally, since you are primarily music focused, you could always axe the subwoofer altogether (add it later) and spend ~$600 on 2 kickass (maybe tower) speakers as music doesn't need as much super low bass as movies do. Let me know if you want to see what that looks like.

I advocate using component bookshelves speakers with a mini amp unless space is at a big premium. They are better engineered, have better bang for your buck, and have a much cleaner sound.

You have the added bonus that the speakers are more flexible for other uses and, if you wanted to go from 2.0 to something else, it's a pretty easy upgrade, ala: you don't have to pitch the old system and get something new. I think you'd find a good 2.0 system to be much more impressive than a lot of the gamer sound systems out there.

Polk Audio T15 Bookshelf Speakers

Dayton Audio DTA-1 Digital Amplifier

Amazon Basics Speaker Cable

Another note: A system like this will sound way fuller without a boominess that you'd get from most gaming 2.1 sound systems. All of my friends that I have recommended go this route have loved it!

In this price range, you could also get an SMSL SA-50 and Wharfedale Diamond 10.1s:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLGEQ/

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0079XG4TW/

The Wharfedales are a bit large for desktop speakers, but they're very good. The amp is 50W/ch, better than most powered speakers.

You'd still need a pre-amp, however. I don't know what's available there; I don't own any vinyl.

Edit: KEF Q100s are also available for $250. These are $550 speakers marked down for clearance after a new model was released. I have both speakers. The KEFs are in my home theater; they have great clarity and presence. They're a little dry, it's great for audio and video soundstage. The Wharfedale's are a little less accurate but warmer; I use those on my PC, where the nearfield experience is what I want. Both have excellent bass extension.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047K3X1M/

I'm about to put together a surround sound setup for my room for about $850. I know it's well over $500 but for $500 you won't get much. Although I would recommend looking into the Sony SS CS5 Bookshelf Speakers they are outstanding for their price and you can get a quality AV Receiver for around $250 from Denon and Yamaha.

Also, the matching center for the Sony's performs really well. They're great speakers for the money. Of course you can always spend a couple hundred more and get something better, but the Sony speakers, price to performance is insane. I'd put them pretty close, sound quality wise, to the ELAC B5's. They don't have as much oomph as the ELAC does, but add a sub and you're golden ponyboy.

I have not heard or used the matching sub but I would assume it doesn't go low very well.

Hi Zeos, I'm looking for a DAC+AMP combo to replace my current Creative X-Fi DAC.
I would prefer to have just one DAC+AMP unit instead of 2 seperate devices but if you recommend otherwise, I'll be open to that too.


Also, I recently got into vinyl and I intend to line in the LP-60 to the DAC+AMP if possible so I don't have to swap cables in and out.


Could you please recommend some options? Thanks!

PS, I just recently stumbled onto your videos and I absolutely got hooked. Love your review style and your honest opinions on products. Keep up the great work!

I own this table and its a tank!

I have this carbon fiber slip mat that helps bring down static.
http://www.sleevecityusa.com/sleeve-city-carbon-fiber-turntable-mat-p/dm-232.htm

I have this headshell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GVJA1C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419565880&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

This cartridge.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZC2EYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1419565950&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

The shure m97xe is a decent beginner cart and it's very neutral sounding in my opinion. I listen to a wider variety of music and it does a decent job highlighting each sound. You can also upgrade the needle down the road to the Jico SAS which I hear is amazing.

I'm sure others can recommend some other carts for you but I only wanna talk about what I own.

Also you're gonna want a record cleaning brush. The audio quest is a great little brush that I've had for almost 2 years now and is great to use before you spin a record.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006VMBHI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419566312&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40


Any other questions be sure to ask. I know a bit of the technical stuff on this table and I'll do my best to help.

Yeah man it definitely is not the best player I would save for something different.

Audio Technica AT-LP60BK Fully Automatic Belt-Drive Stereo Turntable, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008872SIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ze9PBbN8PX02Q

This player is 100 bucks on amazon. I got it on holiday sale for 80 last year. It's far from high end but it will treat your records well and paired with some nice speakers it sounds just fine. It's a great beginning table. I used a player similar to yours for about a year because it was what i could afford before finally upgrading.

Just enjoy the hobby man! I know the struggle of wanting to buy more records instead of buying a better table lol

Great question.

Now that I'm in front of my computer, I found the manual for your specific modules.

You can see where the input port leads to a wall plate module with standard RCA inputs (among other things). You're basically doing the same thing, only with a much more simple module that only includes RCA. And obviously, it's not installed in a remote location. It's just hanging there in the closet.

You've also got a secondary distribution module, but from what I can tell, it's daisy-chained to the first via the 'Cascade Out' port, and it's just because they needed one more speaker output.

What's important is that you'll see in that diagram that the input jacks are clearly accepting a 'line-level out'. That's another term for 'pre-amp'. Higher-end receivers have a set of outputs that bypass the amplifier so that you can provide a clean audio source to another system, like the OnQ.

Unfortunately, your Sony doesn't appear to have line-out. I have a Yamaha that's pretty much the exact same unit. I was also frustrated by the lack of line-out jacks. I needed them for some wireless speakers.

There's definitely devices out there that convert speaker-outputs to pre-amp. They were particularly common back in the day for car stereo installs, because people wanted to add aftermarket amps/woofers to their stock systems and needed an unamplified signal to work with.

But they're not ideal because they introduce noise. It's just not a very clean signal.

It would seem odd to me if someone had a pricey whole-house system like this, only to provide it a muddy audio source via a line-out adapter. But it's doable, I'm sure.

Here's an option...

If you plan to use the Sony as a switcher for TV sources, and you want the house speakers to just play whatever is on your TV, you could tap into the HDMI output on its way to the TV, using one of these.

It's what I used to push the TV audio to the wireless speakers and it worked like a charm. HDMI output isn't amplified, so it satisfies what you need for the OnQ, as well.

Of course, you'd either have to keep all your sources in that closet with the receiver and run an HDMI all the way to your TV. Or keep all that in the living room and run a long RCA cable into the closet.

Here's the catch...

I'm betting anything that like my Yamaha, the HDMI can only output HDMI sources. So this won't let you route, for instance, your iPod connected to your Sony into the OnQ. But if you listen to online music via Chromecast, FireStick, Roku, etc., then this could totally work for you.

alight, I've got two suggestions for you. In both cases we're focused exclusilvely on watts per dollar here, so there's no bells or whistles on these things. You want to play the radio? use your computer. you want to EQ? also use your computer. Both of these systems can be enhanced with a sub and/or pre-amp down the road that will improve your experience. but these should work out of the gate.

Option 1: The amplifier is tried and true and speakers are very well reviewed. This system is upgradable later and should pack plenty of punch for a party.

Audiosource AMP100! $107.00

Polk Audio Monitor 50 $126 per speaker

Option 2: These are little outside of your price range, but I wanted to throw them out there as an option. You can think of these as the most kickass computer speakers ever. Completely self powered, just plug it into the wall and feed it an RCA or 1/4" input and you're ready to go. Since you're currently using a guitar amp I'm assuming that you're something of a musician, these would be great for a small home studio as well as in day to day computer use. They'll also definitely rock the house.

KRK RP8 $249 per speaker

Let me know what you settle on.

UPDATE

Hey guys, love all the comments and Questions, here is some info for those who care and want to know.


Products Used*


Touchscreen Bought Mine at MCM electronics.


Raspberry Pi2


Speakers


Amp


Keyboard



Software Running


Get Noobs on a SD/MicroSD card here

Use Noobs to boot and install Rasbian

Install KODI from add remove programs or terminal "sudo apt-get install kodi"

Install NPR and VevoTV in Kodi.



Cool Idea


User /benjimons has a really cool idea on his screen showing his webcams and other good info

User/agent-squirrel mentioned Dashing for a cool UI, I looked a little into it and it seems pretty cool



Dog Info

I don't know HomeDepots official dog policy, but yes, he goes with me all the time there, employees all love him, he is NOT a service dog, and lots of Dogs are in there. I usually see this in HomeDepots that are deeper in residential areas, not so much in a more industrial area...

Thanks, he's a great pup, we call him WiFi because of his Antenna's

More often than not, record players that try to become an "all in one" are pretty terrible. My personal suggestion would be to get a separate record player that is dedicated to just record playing, a separate amplifier/whatever for the rest of your needs, and feed it all through speakers.

As far as choosing a record player, it all depends on what you want to spend. These days, you can get a pretty darn good one for ~$99 (see AT-LP60). If you want better sound fidelity, the sky is the limit, but that one is pretty darn good for general use for a beginner.

For the other thing, there are like a billion options. Here is the first one I found on Amazon. It may be worth your time (depending on how much you want to spend), to find an amplifier. They often times have this type of functionality built into them, and would be something that could power speakers, as well as hook the record player into.

Speaking of speakers, they are also kind of up in the air, too. You could easily just run them through a simple set of computer speakers using a stereo to 3.5mm cable, or get a nice pair that you would need to drive from an amplifier. Up to you!

Strictly speaking, wattages and THD are a good guide for figuring out quality, but are certainly not a hard-and-fast rule. Knowing your brands and trusted opinions are better, listening to it yourself is best.

The link in the sidebar has some good ones.

I'm actually in exactly the same position as you at the moment, I'm considering this one as it's the cheapest (50w per channel, ~au$80 delivered), but apparently this one is much better even though it's only 30w per channel and is $20 more.

Or then again I could anticipate future upgrades and just go for this yammy amp which is 100w per channel for ~$190.

I really like that Denon one you've posted, though. Decisions, decisions.

You've got tons of options...

These 3 way Sony bookshelf speakers are a great option that fits your budget. You could do 4 of those and the matching center: https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-SSCS5-3-Driver-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00O8YLMVA

Beyond that... Fluance, Jamo, Micca, Elac and Klipsch all offer good speakers that fall in your budget.

The receiver is going to be a little more difficult, but still doable in your budget. Look at 5.2 options from Onkyo, Yamaha and Denon. You'll be able to save some money without sacrificing too much if you go for "last years model."

Something like this Denon: https://www.amazon.ca/DENON-AVR-S650H-Receiver-Streaming-Bluetooth/dp/B07QRC9NP5

Last little bit of advice... don't overspend on cables. For speaker wire, the bare bones Amazon basics is perfectly fine. Same thing for HDMI and anything else you need. Basically... don't get your cables from Best Buy and you'll be OK.

I have an Audio Technica AT-LP60BK, and I have noticed that it plays some records perfectly fine, and some records slightly too fast. I usually play new records, although I have a few oldies as well! The oldies seem to play fine, except for my Blondie record, which plays slightly too fast. All four of my King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard records all seem to play fine, also! But, I have a new Washed Out record that plays slightly faster than it should, as well as a Sunbeam Sound Machine record(also new), and they're both quite noticeable to me. But the rest of my new records play fine, alongside most of my oldies, 25 in total. If I gently apply pressure to the middle of the records in question while they are playing, they sound normal! I wonder if it's a problem with the turntable, or the records themselves. I appreciate all help!

Honestly good headphones are actually better than bad speakers! It’s not a bad way to watch movies and play games.

Of course real surround sound is great. Every time you’ve gone to the theater that’s what it is. With a receiver the sound is almost like the theater. Even if you don’t turn up the volume all the way it sound better because the sound is coming from every direction.

I live in a flat in NY myself so I can’t blast my system all the time. My receiver maxes out at 16.5 dB and I usually watch movies at -15 to -25 dB!!! That’s much lower than the max volume. To get the same sort of volume as the theater you have to set it to 0 dB.

Also with any receiver the bigger your speakers are the louder they are. For example if you have floor standing speakers they will output much more volume than bookshelf ones.

These are really good ones to start out with. I used to have 4 of them myself. On BF Best Buy and Amazon usually sell them for $50/pair. So it’s $100 for 4 (front left, front right, rear left, rear right). Then you just need a center channel speaker, a subwoofer and a receiver. If you shop right you can put together a full 5.1 system for about $550-600. That’s the price of a mid range sound bar and why I always tell people that they’re better off putting together their own setup especially if they have the room. Once you wire the speakers up once you never have to do it again. If you upgrade to better speakers you just take the wire out of the old ones and put it into the new ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002RJLHB8

Hey I got the same TV, 55" though. Surround channels can also be 90 degrees from you like this.

Do you have any 4k content? Older / cheaper receivers might not support it. I don't personally have much experience with any other receiver than my own (Marantz NR1504), but I'd suggest something from A4S around $300. Marantz, Denon, and Yamaha are generally solid choices. If you're unsure about anyone feel free to ask.

With about ~$400 left for speakers, you can go about this a couple of ways. First is a 2.0 with the best LR speakers you can get. This is the best option if you're willing to spend more money in the future to buy the center / sub. SVS Prime / Elac UniFi UB5 are both $500 retail, but you can likely find them for cheaper used on amazon, or direct from SVS Outlet. Both speakers have matching centers that can be bought afterwards.

If you'd like a more complete system, I'll recommend a 3.0 and a 2.1 system soley because I don't think it's worth trying to squeeze a full 3.1 in at the moment. Do you plan on mostly watching movies or listening to music? Center vs Sub is going to be dependent on your use case.

For a 3.0, I'd recommend the Elac Debut Line. For main speakers, Elac B5 or B6. B6 costs more but is going to have more bass, which makes up for not having a sub. This is the matching center.

For a 2.1 system, I'd still recommend going with either the B5 or B6, but instead of the center grab this sub.

You'll still need to buy speaker wire, but that's dirt cheap.

Welcome!

Jazz is quite varied so it's difficult to pick out an album unless you have some idea of his/her taste. Listeners of traditional jazz, for instance, tend to have a strong dislike of "smooth jazz" (and say things like "it's not jazz at all but instrumental pop"; well, at least I do). Were there any examples? I'm not familiar with the Cheating the Polygraph album. I listened to a couple samples and, while somewhat interesting, didn't wow me.

A couple I'd be interested in are Jack DeJohnette's In Movement found on UK Amazon here and ECM's product page here and Brad Mehldau's Blues and Ballads. I also just saw Mehldau's label, Nonesuch, has 15% off on its store liked here, but I don't know if they have a UK shop.

Again, those would be good ideas for me. This person may be very different or may already have them.

Another route may be some accessories, as there are quite a few related to vinyl. For instance, here are some inner record sleeves. You may want to consider outer sleeves, too. I didn't see the ones I know on the UK site, but there are a few. I think any vinyl collector could always use good sleeves.

There are a few book options, as well. I'd like this Jazz Image book, for instance.

An old guy here with advice.

So smallish room.... means you can save $$ with some nice bookshelf speakers and a modest size receiver or amp. Try to snag speakers with 6 inch + drivers and you really will not need a woofer for music.

Digital music is excellent but older mp3 files might be crummy. Look for flac files or 320kbs mp3. Compact Discs are great...and good condition vinyl is too. Do not waste time on cassettes....

Personally I think the onkyo ought to be plan A as a decent tube amp will be pricey and great speakers are gonna affect sound quality the most. Does the onkyo have a phono preamp built in?

Some great bookshelf speaker choices

keg q100

or

elac



Also.... the tunes from back in the day will bring back some great memories.

In all honesty almost anything is going to sound better than a soundbar. I would start with a 2.0 system and work your way up from there, onkyo makes some OK receivers that are stereo only, and then I would get a set of Polk floorstanders. This combo will sound good, not mind blowing, but light years ahead of the sound bar you have. And from there you can grab a 12" subwoofer.

On your budget going 5.1 seems a bit out of reach, but you can get a good 2.0 or 2.1 (with a cheap sub) and you'll be in business.

Like a lot of the others have said that's a big room to fill with sound, so starting with just a stereo setup and getting a nice big rug in there will help wonders.

https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX8020-TX-8020-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00EE18O7W

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Monitor-Floorstanding-Speaker/dp/B006QL0XXQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473647960&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+floorstanding+speakers

I realize those links are for the us, but in just wanted to link to what I was referring to. If those aren't available by you itnat least gives youna starting point. Good luck!

Hi all!

I'm moving to a new apartment (located in San Francisco) and looking to purchase some speakers for our living room. The living room is about 18'x14'.

I have been very confused in the process of getting speakers. I am thinking that I will go the bookshelf speaker mount and get two bookshelf speakers, a receiver, and maybe a sub. I currently don't have any gear.

I was hoping to do this for ~300 dollars (very open to buying used), and if under 300 that would be great also. I listen to a lot of hip hop so bass is important and we expect to have a lot of parties so really want something that sounds good, and loud and fills up the room well :)

My parents have the Bose 301-V bookshelf speakers and I have to say that their living room is definitely bigger and more open and the speakers are quite loud with a ton of bass. It seems that this could be a great start.

What do you guys think? I also really like the look of the Klipsch bookshelf speakers. Am open to anything, Polk, Micca, Pioneer, Sony, etc. I am thinking to rule out the floorstanding speakers for now until I get a bigger place. Just confused on what bookshelf speakers to get, and if a sub would be necessary. Thanks for all the help!

OP should define 'best'. If a wired connection goes unused due the the hassle factor then it's not so best. If OP can live with the loss of quality with a wireless setup and greater freedom of movement then wireless would be 'best'.

I've used both Bluetooth with aptX via Audioengine B1 with much success. I've used wired analog straight from the headphone jack of the phone and laptop also. I can't say the minuscule improvement in quality with going wired analog over the Bluetooth solution's greater freedom of movement was worth it.

My suggestion is to try all the options available before spending much money. I've had two different Bluetooth solutions, the Audioengine B1 and something like this: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B009OBCAW2 The Audioengine B1 is highly recommended, the other not so much. The B1 stays connected at 2-3 times the range and thru a floor where the much cheaper solution drops connection if my hand blocks the path/line of sight...

http://www.cardpool.com/sell/gift-cards-for-amazon-gift-card

Swap your Dell gift cards for Amazon gift cards. Your option #3 is $800 on Dell. Cardpool will give you a $695 Amazon gift card for $800 worth of Dell gift cards. That might sound like a crappy exchange, but Dell is HUGELY overcharging for those speakers.

$702 on Amazon will get you the same center speaker and better LR and sub.

• https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-15M-Bookshelf-Monitor-Speakers/dp/B00LMF41IY
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Reference-Center-Channel-Loudspeaker/dp/B0040QW7KQ
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-12SW-R12SW-Subwoofer/dp/B00MJ1YR8Y
  
  So, you get a better system by swapping the gift cards and spending an extra $7.
  
  Your option #2 is $850 on Dell, or $723 on Amazon. Cardpool will give you $738 for $850 worth of Dell gift cards.
  
  The Dell price on option #1 is just as insane. Dell wants $599 for the R-10B, but you can get it on Amazon for $350. Or you can step up to the R-20B for $499 on Amazon.
  
  Of course, once you convert the Dell cards to Amazon cards, there are a ton of other options open to you too.

Yeah so don't even go by digital vs vinyl. Not a straight comparison since they're mastered differently.

Now, if the record playing through your KLH speakers isn't much better than a bluetooth speaker, then I'd say it's time for new speakers. I know JBL can make great stuff but a pair of bookshelf speakers shouldn't be worse than a BT speaker. Since you've already got a receiver, going with some new passive bookshelf speakers will be a bit more affordable. Something like Klipsch's R-14M's for $150 or the bigger R-15M's for about $172 would sound pretty good. Or you can go with the powered version (it's usually around $350 so wait for a better price) and ditch the receiver for a more compact rig. The powered R-15PM's have a built-in phono preamp, optical input, bluetooth, and AUX input with a remote for volume and source switching. It also has a port for a sub in case you feel like adding one in the future.

Also, have you considered using a headphone amp for personal listening? Grab a Schiit Magni for $99 and pair it with a nice set of ATHM50's or DT 770's.

What exactly do you have? There might be some adjustments you could do, knowing what tt you're working with could help.

Edit: I saw it's a Crosley. Yeah, sorry man, those things just aren't good. I'll say what the other guy said too, if an album's skipping, don't listen to it anymore, nothing will make that Crosley track it without grinding it like a millstone. It won't hurt your records that play fine that much, unless you use it for years. Check your local Craiglist for vintage turntables, if you post a link to your craigslist I bet some guys here would be glad to help you out with picking one. Check with old people you know, they might have some stuff they're willing to give away, I got the receiver and speakers I'm using right now from a man at church, and another guy gave me a Kenwood tt that would work fine with a new belt and stylus. I hope you can find a kickass setup, but in the meantime, just enjoy what you've got.

EDIT DOS: while I'm giving out advice, I suggest you pick up one of these . They're cheap, and they're great for getting dust off of your records, which can put pops and crackle in them. I always use it before I play mine, just a quick clean.

What sort of budget are you working with? I just spent $300 on Elac Debut B6.2 + Denon AVR-S540BT and couldn't be happier.

This is the best "sub-woofer optional" setup at $300 because the pair of Elac's are too damn good! I got the Denon AVR refurbished and its as good as new. Provides great sound through my headphones as well and the bluetooth capability + optional sub-woofer out + Audyssey feature make it worth every penny.

If you can afford to spend more, there are other good options that don't require an external amp like these Elac's. But if you don't want to spend as much then there are some cheaper options like the JBL's and Polk's but there will be a compromise on sound quality.

Edit: Those Elac's will probably go on sale on one of these holidays, just keep an eye out if you're interested. They're still worth the money but if you can wait then you'll save a good amount.

Basically it’s input (phone/computer) -> amp/receiver -> speakers -> ears. Amp/receiver basically just make the signal from whatever powerful enough to drive the speakers. General rule of thumb is to spend the most on speakers (some use the 2/3rds rule, which is good enough for most set ups especially cheap ones) then amp then accessories.

Following this logic, you’d want to spend ~$120-200 on speakers with your budget, good rule of thumb which could net you some killer equipment (see sidebar). As for an amp, old stuff isn’t bad and see below, but if you really want new stuff the R-S201 from https://www.accessories4less.com is a good one if you want to spend $100+200 for your basic set up+change for speaker wire and input cables. Otherwise, if you just need a low-volume set up, probably get something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2QLGEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m6scAbN06JA08 for an amp and spend the rest on speakers. The Affordable Accuracy’s, Elac B5s and the rare ~$250 deal on KEF Q100s are all stand outs at the top of your budget, and with Black Friday coming up we might see really good deals on all the equipment you’re looking for.

But if you’re in a big college town, def recommend checking out the local craigslist and shops in town. I went to a big college and the local shops had quite a lot of equipment at great deals, probably from a few too many kids away from parents with credit cards they couldn’t pay off looking to unload their stuff to pay it off. I still check that areas craigslist for good stuff, cause my area is a bit dry for that sort of stuff (or at least isn’t full of people who don’t know what they have or are desperate to get rid of it).

For a small, but nice setup I'd look for a nice pair of vintage bookshelf speakers or invest in a new pair of bookshelf speakers. Something like these Polks. Polks generally excel at mid range and high range definition. They would be very portable and not so bassy or large as to draw a lot of attention. Then, when you get space for a bigger system you could add a sub, some bigger fronts, and use these for rear surrounds. If that's too much money, Pioneer is my second goto for small, clear, cheap bookshelf speakers. They haven't changed what they do in decades, but they haven't needed to either! Good luck!

I'm a Klipsch man myself Playing on a Pro-Ject Debut carbon with a 2M Blue stylus.

I own these but they are about $20 outside your budget with tax and shipping unless you have Prime. They sound pretty amazing but it will depend on the size of your room. Well worth the price
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-15M-Bookshelf-Speaker-Pair/dp/B00LMF41IY/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1339TAHVM8T95&keywords=klishp+speakers&qid=1565043825&s=gateway&sprefix=klis%2Caps%2C292&sr=8-7


These are in your budget but I can't speak to them as I don't own them.
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-41M-Powerful-Detailed-Bookshelf/dp/B07FKH3VPV/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1339TAHVM8T95&keywords=klishp+speakers&qid=1565043825&s=gateway&sprefix=klis%2Caps%2C292&sr=8-1


I do have two friends that have Edifers and they also sound great.

Alright, your TV has RCA outputs and the option of fixed or variable output through there. If you wanted you could just grab two JBL LSR305 and connect them with RCA to TRS cables. Probably $450 total but would sound much better than the miccas. Go into your TV audio settings and select variable audio out. This way you can change volume through your TV remote. Just set the amp on the back of the JBL speakers to 8 or so and never touch them again.

If you want to go the passive speaker route for upgradability then you can grab a stereo receiver like this Yamaha for $200. Just plug your TV in with RCA cables. This allows you to spend an extra $100 on speakers. You'll save even more money if you look through your local listings for a used receiver. If you like the Klipsch sound you can go for these. Otherwise look through your local listing for a good tower speaker that you can afford. I was going to recommend the Pioneer FS52 but a pair of those would go over your budget. You can try pairing them with a cheap SMSL amp, but I would be worried they would distort a tad early.

The best sounding setup out of the box would be the JBL LSR305, but it's also the least upgradeable setup.

These will all do great for a multimedia speaker system.

Kanto Yu4 (4" speaker) -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kanto-Powered-Speakers-Bluetooth®-Preamp/dp/B01N7OMH3M

Kanto Yu6 (5.25" speaker, bigger but will have better output)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kanto-Powered-Speakers-Bluetooth®-Preamp/dp/B01N1YSXWE

or

Vanatoo Transparent Zero's
https://www.amazon.com/Vanatoo-Transparent-Powered-Speakers-Black/dp/B01N33WUJ9

As for subwoofers you really can get anything you like. From the budget Bic F12 to the matching Yu Sub8 to anything SVS makes. I know you listed your budget in Euro's, but I don't know a common site like Amazon to just get you basic pricing in Euro's so forgive the links to all over the world.

The other option is to go passive.

Amplifier: SMSL AD18 w/ subwoofer output
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AD18-Hi-Fi-Stereo-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B071JN7GXN

Speakers/sub: Anything really. This more depends on regional pricing and availability. Here we can get the KEF Q100's for around $250-$300 US. But anything well reviewed that only needs around 40w of power will work well with that amplifier. There's a good number of well reviewed subs that will work for you with the €350 ish left after the DAC/amp and speakers.

Well, nice is a relative term when spending $300 on speakers and a subwoofer. Its alot to ask for on that budget IMO, but it can certainly be done if it just plugs into a computer. /r/zeos has lots of good info, using his guide, I'd pick the Polk On-Walls for $100, Martin Logan 8" Subwoofer for $130 and an SMSL SA50 for an amp. You'll need banana connectors, speaker wire and a 3.5mm to stereo RCA for connectivity. That should be a good balance of sound. Don't get this setup without the subwoofer though, those speakers are designed presuming you have a sub, and will fit nicely on your desk, and the sub is small enough to fit comfortably underneath.

Funny thing about those comments...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q157FY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B072Q157FY&pd_rd_wg=fO7Oq&pd_rd_r=T5TSGRD5NWGQ9E3YPZ5K&pd_rd_w=rmYwa

Because there's 100 reviews that give the EXACT same amp 4 stars. (On average)

Also, whenever someone around here mentions that something gets a lot of good reviews on Amazon, the consensus is that they're all fake shill reviews. And then when something, like that amp for instance, works great for me, people bring up the bad reviews.

(There is this one too, also the same amp. Also averages 4 stars.)

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Channel-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01N34QK4N/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

So apparently I'm not just a WOO HOO sample size of one, but also part of a fair number of people who didn't have any problems and enjoyed it.

And it seems the beloved SMSL SA-50 doesn't do any better for customer satisfaction when the same number of reviews are counted...

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter-Silver/dp/B00A2QLGEQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525879126&sr=1-4&keywords=smsl+sa50

Same with the 36A...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13O5W/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B017W13O5W&pd_rd_wg=2xLZA&pd_rd_r=KTF0ZNPRXJB6QHVJ0BCN&pd_rd_w=jRFGv&smid=A2Q0JVLI22BSVA

And if you check my post history you know I'm usually the FIRST to note the inflated wattage rating of all these cheap, and not so cheap, chip amps. (Looking at you AD18)

Especially the AD18, as it's usually $5 less that a Denon AVRS530BT, which makes it an awful ripoff unless you ABSOLUTELY need the space.

So I clearly DO have an idea of how amps are built and what determines output power. And those beloved SMSL and Topping amps are just as complicit in the number inflation game.

Active speakers have separate audio and power inputs. They each have a power cable going to the wall in addition to a cable going to the media device. They do not require an external amplifier.

Passive speakers only have one combined audio/power input. Most speakers are passive and require an external amplifier.

For a home theater setup, I have been recommending a 3.0 + receiver setup for years to my friends. My friend finally purchased a center channel and wishes he would have done it years ago.

Home theater receivers like this one are 4k HDR HDMI switches and amplifiers built into one. You would plug your media devices into your receiver and switch between them using the receiver instead of the TV. I do not recommend using an analog stereo amplifier in a home theater setup - buy a good current generation 5.1 receiver and you won't have to replace it unless it breaks or until HDMI goes away.

After picking up a receiver, you would need some speaker wire and then some passive speakers to pair with it (like OP). Connecting the speakers to your receiver is as simple as connecting red to red and connecting black to black.

Post script: Most media now is produced primarily with 5.1 mixing, meaning that the dialogue is engineered with the assumption that a dedicated center channel speaker is present. Your sound will be way more clear if you were to buy a receiver and stereo speakers compared to built-in TV speakers, but there is a massive massive difference once you are able to listen to the proper 5.1 sound mix when using stereo + center channel setup. Ever felt like you needed to turn up the sound to hear the talking and then turn it down once a chase/shooting scene started? That ends when the characters can talk through a center channel speaker.

As others have suggested, /r/zeos is a fantastic audio resource. I've been extremely happy with all the gear I've purchased from his recommendations.

Hey! Sorry for the long overdue reply - the intercontinental move had its expected obstacles and lots of work lol.

So I have had a chance to check out a few audio shops while being in Toronto. We are now pretty convinced to just buy new equipment. From our listening experience, and comfortable with the ~$1000 and under price range for speakers:

Focal Chorus 706 (http://kennedy-hifi.com/chorus-706/) sounded great compared to a Paradigm T-Monitor Mini: http://kennedy-hifi.com/monitor-mini/ but were very close surprisingly to the PSB Imagine-X B for about half the cost. We were also interested in the Yamaha AS301 Amp from the same store to power it (~$500 CAD).

Now from my research (without listening experience), I have been intrigued by the ELAC Debut B6 Series. Here's some reviews:

1. http://www.cnet.com/products/elac-debut-b6/2/
   
2. http://www.stereophile.com/content/elac-debut-b6-loudspeaker#sH8oc3iZ4yGKILMM.97
   
   It seems that these speakers, despite their cost, are sounding as good or better than very expensive systems (judging by the comments at Stereophile for instance and the reviews themselves). On the CNET review, the editor at the end suggests two low-cost amps to drive them: the Onkyo TX-8020 (https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX8020-TX-8020-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00EE18O7W), which is easily available on Amazon.ca and this U-turn Orbit turntable (http://www.cnet.com/news/u-turn-audio-slashes-the-cost-of-bona-fide-audiophile-turntables/).
   
   We were also thinking about getting the Sonos Play5 as an office speaker with portable potential and for possible add-ons in the future.
   
   I would greatly value your opinion. Thinking of just going with the Kennedy Hi-Fi options out of fear the ELAC is too much of an entry-level speaker that will be obvious in missing the depth and richness that we experienced from the Focal.

Looks like your turn table has a built in Phono amp meaning all you need is a good set of speakers, wire and a stereo/integrated amp.

The speakers you mentioned are rated at 6ohms meaning they are going to need a little more power to drive than a typical 8ohm speaker.

I don’t know much about the amp you are looking at but I see it’s rated for 50watts @ 8ohm and your floor standing speaker is wanting up to 100 Watts.

If your looking to rock these 6ohm towers I would suggest something a little more robust like this 100watt stereo amp:
Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G9ycBbTJ03SEX

Also a good place to grab great and affordable interconnects you will need check out Monoprice. You will need an RCA audio cable to plug your turn table into the amp:(just get the correct length)
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5346

And speaker wire to plug the amp into the speakers:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=14915

That should keep you well under your budget.

If your not set on your speaker selection I can’t think of a better budget speaker than Elac’s B6.2. I own the previous model B6. All the same recommendations above apply in regards to amp and interconnects.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B4Q5587/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527354185&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=elac+b6.2&dpPl=1&dpID=41xPo8h5y6L&ref=plSrch

1. What is your budget?
   $500
   
   
2. What are you looking for?
   Looking for a pair of bookshelf speakers, a 2-channel stereo receiver that can be used as a home theater setup with my speakers, playstation, and tv.
   
   
3. How will you typically be using the gear?
   I will use the gear for music (indie rock, hiphop - no EDM), gaming, and sound for my TV (sports, movies, shows)
   
   
4. What gear do you own?
   The only gear I own are my TV (60" Samsung LED 1080p Smart TV), and my playstation 4. I could probably figure out some stands for the speakers too. Other than that, I have nothing.
   
   
5. What do you intend on using for a source?
   Right now, I want to play music off my phone and/or laptop. Sound also playing through my TV/playstation. Down the road, I want to get a turntable and start collecting records.
   
   
6. What material will you be using your gear for?
   Gaming, music, movies, sports, shows. Music - indie rock, hip-hop, ambient, punk rock, post-rock, etc. No EDM business here.
   
   
7. Are you willing to buy used?
   Would rather not.
   
   Someone kindly gave me a few suggestions before, but I'm afraid the stereo receiver isn't what I need. I'm a bit of a newb to hi-fi audio - but would the receiver suggested below satisfy my needs? I feel that the stereo receiver would need some HDMI inputs for the playstation and an output to the TV? Hopefully someone can help me with this. Here were the suggestions that were given by a previous individual (which, thanks for the previous suggestion! Just want to make sure I am getting everything I need before making a $500 purchase.)
   
   Bookshelf Speakers - Elac B6, $279
   
   Stereo Receiver - Yamaha R-S201BL, $129
   
   Wifi Addition - Airport Express, $49
   
   Thanks!

Here are my tips:

1. Get some sort of record cleaning device. Could be a Spin Clean, could be a Squeaky Clean, or something more expensive than that. But get something. Once you have it, make sure you wet clean your records within a week or two of getting them. They'll sound better and it's worth it.
   
   
2. Now that you've cleaned your new or used record, why not put it into a nice anti-static sleeve. I'm a sucker for the MoFi sleeves, but just find something that works for you. If you're wondering why you'd want to spend another $20 right now it ends up being $.40 per record.
   
   
3. And once you've put that record in a nice anti-static sleeve you should put the whole thing into a nice poly outer sleeve to protect the jacket. Again, you can get a bundle of these (30 or so) for $5 at your local record store or find any number of places online. But the point is that if you're going to spend $15 - $30 for a new LP it's probably worth an extra $.50 total to protect it. People do things differently, but I put the jacket in the outer sleeve and plop the record in the anti-static sleeve inside the outer sleeve behind the jacket.
   
   Store those well-protected records vertically and out of the sunlight and you should be good to go.

Congrats on the turntable! I got a 120 for Christmas, too; I'm really enjoying it!

I like your setup. You may find that people have very passionate feelings about Bose speakers, or pretty much anything in the audio chain, really, but ultimately what matters is how you feel when you're sitting there listening to them.

That receiver would be a good match. Here's an alternative for $50 more, with what I think are nicer aesthetics. I've had good luck with Yamaha amps in the past.

Your best solution is a new TV (instead of a 'monitor' like the Marantz).

Your second best solution is:

• a $60 TV tuner that has both an HDMI output (which is standard) and also an HDMI input (which is not), to accommodate the Apple TV.
  
  http://www.channelmaster.com/Digital_TV_Hub_p/cm-7002.html
  
  
• a $30 HDMI audio-video splitter, that sends the video to the Marantz, and the audio by Toslink to whatever speaker system you have.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072
  
  Hook up the Apple TV HDMI to this box, and the this box via HDMI to to the HDMI splitter. From the splitter, HDMI cable to the Marantz monitor and Toslink to the speaker system.
  
  Your third best solution:
  
  Buy a $30 Iview or Homeworx TV tuner from amazon & a cheap used AV receiver from Amazon or ebay. It can accept multiple HDMI inputs (from the tuner and the Apple TV) and can separate output video the Marantz and audio to the speaker system.
  
  AV receiver: https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A3213035011%2Cp_36%3A1253506011

Oh ok, I looked through the manual but it's very sparse with any info.

Sounds like it does have inputs you can use, do they look like this? If they do you just need a basic 3.5mm to RCA cable to connect your phone to the system.

>so could you tell me how to use those speakers to work for my phone/laptop? Using an amplifier like you mentioned?

If you don't want to use the main sony unit, yeah you could buy an amplifier and connect the speakers to that instead.

Something like this for a cheaper one that you'd connect with a cable to your phone, or if you wanted a nicer one with bluetooth this would be a good option.

Nice receiver! I love the look (and sound) of the old 1970's-era Marantz receivers. Now for some suggestions:

1.) Get rid of the Discwasher. It is completely ineffective and can actually grind dust deeper into the grooves. Consider replacing it with this:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT6012-Record-Care/dp/B0009IGAPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343346910&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+technica+record+cleaning+kit

2.) Invest in a carbon fiber brush for cleaning light surface dust before each play. Use it dry, in between wet cleanings. I use one by Audioquest, and it does an admirable job. It is available here:
http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-LP-record-clean-brush/dp/B0006VMBHI/ref=pd_cp_e_0

These two items are the cheapest and most effective upgrade for any vinyl system.

3.) Consider upgrading your turntable. Something like a Pioneer PL-12D will vastly outperform your Sony deck, and it can be found on eBay sometimes for under $100.

4.) New speakers (but you know that already).

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. And good for you for taking the first plunge into vinyl :-)

Hey! I'd like to purchase a receiver, new or used, for under $200. There are two highly rated models on Amazon:

Yamaha Natural Sound Stereo Receiver R-S201

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0H88SY?pc_redir=1411312586&robot_redir=1



Onkyo TX-8020 Stereo Receiver

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EE18O7W?pc_redir=1411220328&robot_redir=1



So far I just have a set of Pioneer Andrew Jones bookshelf speakers. I'd like to purchase this receiver in order to play FLAC files from my laptop. In the future I'd like to add a turntable to the setup. I'm okay with not having surround sound.

Also, I'd be comfortable buying vintage if you feel that's a better option. Here's my local Craigslist:

http://newyork.craigslist.org/search/ela?query=receiver




Thanks for your help!

OK doubledeuce24...I figured out a work around for you that won't cost you an arm and a leg. It won't be HD quality by any means but it does work and they can do absolutely nothing about it.

To start this is what you will need:

• 2 smart phones
  
• Tronsmart 1000 Not sure why the rating is so low on amazon...works fine for me
  
• TV with an HDMI port
  
• An RCA or 3.5mm to bluetooth dongle (Optional)
  
  For video:
  
  

1. Take the Tronsmart 1000 and plug it into the HDMI port on your TV.
   
   
2. Connect one of the smartphones to the tronsmart 1000 using the EZcast app from the android app store.
   
   
3. Get the other smart phone and open NFL mobile and start the game stream you want.
   
   
4. The EZcast on the first smartphone has the ability to stream video from your phones camera to the Tronsmart 1000 connected to the TV. Use that feature to film the other phone playing the game. Now the game is being streamed on your TV.
   
   
   For Audio:
   
   
5. Take the bluetooth dongle and plug it into your TV or surround sound via RCA or 3.5mm
   
   
6. Connect the phone playing the game to the dongle via the phones bluetooth. Now you have the audio of the game playing through your TV or Surround sound.
   
   
   
   This is by no means a great solution, but it does work.
   
   

Hi guys, I'm relatively new to playing records. I've had a turntable setup for a year or so, but don't get to use it that much.

My question is, how do you control static pops and clicks? Even on the records I buy brand new, I still get pops and clicks and my turntable sounds nowhere near as good as playing music from my iPod to my receiver. I have:

• Infinity Interlude Il60 speakers
  
• Harmon Kardon AVR325 Receiver
  
• An 80s Kenwood preamp (not the best, I know, but I don't think it should be that weak)
  
• A late 80s Technics home turntable, not one of the nicer professional type ones
  
  I replaced the cartridge with this Audio Technica cartridge, hoping it would help out, but it didn't help much at all. I realize it's a cheap cartridge, but so is my preamp and turntable.
  
  I have used this record washing contraption and this anti static brush, but niether seem to keep the dust off of my records, and pops and clicks develop way too quickly.
  
  I love spinning some vinyl, but when the sound quality doesn't compare to digital music, it really turns me off :(
  
  What do you use to keep your records fresh and clean, and what can I do to control dust and static on my records so I don't ruin them?

How often? Every time you wish to play it.

How hard? It depends! I inherited my grandfather's and my father's record collection when I started collecting. Some of the records were very dirty, so I bought a SpinClean to get rid of the dirt.

I've cleaned all my records with it at least once (even the new ones), and after that I just brush with a carbon fiber brush before I put it on the turntable (to remove static and light dirt, paper linen, etc).

Cleaning with the brush while the record is spinning is easier, but it does not get rid of static, and sometimes it generates more of it (i live in a very dry city), and the same goes for the dust (they cling on the record because of the static).

TL:DR: you should always deep clean your records once (the SpinClean is awesome for this). After that is just keeping them clean with a carbon fiber brush, and that is super easy!

Good choice on the receiver. I'd really suggest staying away from vintage speakers that old. It's kind of like buying an old victorian house. Really cool until you find out all the money you have to dump into it. The only time I buy vintage speakers are when I find the dirt cheap AND they were high-end back in the day. Just my 2 cents but all of these are good bookshelf speaker options from $50-100 a pair (I personally like the Pioneer's best but they're all good budget speaker). You'll need speaker stands too ($40 plus) and might need to add a sub down the road if you want more bass ($100 plus).

Insignia NS-SP213 $50 pair
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-5-1-4-2-way-bookshelf-speakers-pair-black/8959098.p?id=1218957873370&skuId=8959098

JBL Loft 40 $65 pair
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKPJSIM/

Polk T15 $65 pair
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RJLHB8/
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/polk-audio-5-1-4-bookshelf-speakers-pair-black/8828012.p?id=1207956903491&skuId=8828012

Micca MB42X $89 pair
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2/

Pioneer SP-BS22-LR $91 pair
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NCD2LG/
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/pioneer-4-bookshelf-speakers-pair-black/5086955.p?id=1218610014045&skuId=5086955

The other option is to bite the bullet again and get these tower speakers that are one of my personal favorites. It's less likely you'll need a sub and obviously won't have to by stands if you go this route.

Pioneer SP-FS52-LR Floor Speaker $182 pair
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NCD2LG/
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/pioneer-5-1-4-floor-speaker-each-black/5086937.p?id=1218610014331&skuId=5086937

3.5mm output.
can make connection without touching anything but your phone/ipad.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OBCAW2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


HomeSpot NFC-Enabled Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Sound System
by HomeSpot
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| 538 answered questions

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Bluetooth 2.1 + EDR; Support A2DP profile; Store 8 paired devices
Superior wireless performance; Transmit up to 66 feet away with line of sight
Tap-and-pair and tap-and-connect the receiver with NFC-equipped Android, Windows 8 and Nokia phones
Plug the receiver into any A/V receiver, stereo system, or speaker through standard RCA or 3.5 mm jack; UL-plug AC adapter included
Play music wirelessly from your Bluetooth-capable smartphone, iPod Touch, iPhone, iPad, Android.

My mom upgraded her stero setup a couple years ago and I incorporated it with our TV system so the audio from our TV plays out of the stero. She had a turntable with her old receiver that still works, but isn't compatible with our new stero. After doing some research, I think the issue is that we need a preamp to connect the old turntable to the new receiver (I guess the old receiver had one built in). Would it just be easier to get a new turn table? (the old one is probably over 20 years old) even though it is still functional? Am I right about needing a preamp? I was looking at this preamp. I know my mom likes the "warm" (not sure how to describe it) sound of vinyl records but she is by no means an audiophile and doesn't listen to records very often so I don't need anything to premium. I'm looking to get this all set up for her for mother's day, and I will be paying for it (I'm a student in highschool) so I won't be able to afford anything too expensive. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Here's some pictures of her old reciever, the turn table, the connections that the turntable uses (it doesn't have a power plug?), and the new reciever that we plan on plugging it into.

I'm wondering if I can get some help/advise in regards to speakers for my Fluance RT81 that is currently on order. I have narrowed it down to these two sets: Fluance Signature Series Bookshelf Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A5UB4JU/ref=twister_B01BKWQW3A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Klipsch R-15M Bookshelf Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-15M-Bookshelf-Speaker-Pair/dp/B00LMF41IY/

Both seem to be passive speakers so I would need an amp as well apparently. I don't plan to connect them to a AV receiver - just the turntable and speakers. Can anyone recommend a good amp for this setup? I found this one on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/ART-DJPREII-Audio-Turntable-Preamplifier/dp/B000AJR482/) which seems to get decent reviews.

I am new to vinyl but I want speakers that have some good bass to them (without a sub) since I won't be connecting to a receiver. Which of these speakers will provide the best highs and enough bass?

Any recommendations would be helpful - thank you!

I would probably try to save up for a dac/amp combo for computer use instead of the tv dac.

The Topping Mx3 is good, has a sub out for down the road ( r/https://bit.ly/2xhzTMu )

This Smsl would be great too ( r/https://amzn.to/2D4FXgK )

Otherwise, you could go with the amp you linked and spend more on the speakers. Micca mb42x would be good for cheap. I personally love the Parts express c-notes ( they are diy $100 r/https://bit.ly/2H3Jom8 ) and are not much more then the micca's and are superior in every way. Can't go wrong with pioneer bs-22 LR as well, although they are kind of awkwardly sized. I would consider these great budget options.

http://thewirecutter.com/leaderboard/home-theater/

Your Sonos system is certainly good, but that is mainly in the ease of setup and streaming service support. If you are willing to to run wires to individual speakers and just do streaming from the Shield or any other device you can get a much better system with a typical AV receiver and some good speakers.

I am currently using a Shield and the Denon AVR-S720W with a Vizio TV and the HDMI-CEC functions work great. I can use the Shield remote to turn on the Shield and it will turn the whole system on and switch to the right input. You would not need HDMI-ARC as all your inputs would be on the receiver.

For $1130 you could get:

• 1x Elac Debut C5
  
• 4x Elac Debut B5
  
• 2x Monoprice 9723 subwoofer
  
• 1x Denon AVR-S720W

I like tube stuff - I would get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Hybrid-Tube-Amplifier-Integrated/dp/B078J8KJD9/

​

It uses a tube preamp section, with solid state output. You would run your computer to it via either USB or BT. Your record player would go to the RCA inputs on the back. You would need to get a record player that has "line level" RCA outputs. Those are common these days.

​

Re: speakers, I have two sets of Klipsch speakers that I like. I would maybe suggest these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00LMF41IY/

​

I would use the Best Buy gift cards to get RCA cables and speaker wire, maybe speaker stands. Or, some IEM's (earphones).

​

Hope this helps! It's just one person's idea - and best wishes for college!

Hey guys!
My girlfriend is a music lover and her birthday is coming up so I wanted to surprise her with a new turntable. Her old Crosley turntable crapped out recently after only on year of use.

I am a complete newbie when it comes to this kind of stuff, but after doing a bit of research these are the items I have decided on.

Audio Technica At-LP60BK Turntable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008872SIO/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009IUIV4A/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS&psc=1


The main issue I am having is picking an amplifier. It seems that I would need one in order to properly connect the turntable and speakers. These are the two I am looking at now, but I'm not sure if they are compatible with my set up or will have enough power. Any recommendations on which one I should pick? My budget is pretty tight.

Seeduck Lepy Mini Amplifier
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HRR5AWQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A1MZW54YOZT6K2&psc=1

Pyle Home Mini Amplifier
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0071HZ5EQ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I would appreciate any help, thank you :)

Yamaha R-S300 or, if you're ok buying refurbished, the R-S500 is just $50 more

+

Emotiva T1s. I know these are $700 but they are worth it. If you must absolutely spend less, Elac F5s are around $550 but even if you prefer ELACs, I would recommend the larger F6s. I strongly recommend against polk or klipsch.

If you can't stretch the budget for more expensive speakers, get the less expensive but still great Onkyo 8020 receiver. Money spent on speakers is money well spent. Always skew your budget for speakers at the cost of a slightly less powerful amp, you don't have to turn your home in a club and 50W are more than enough for 90% of rooms.

I am going to be using this article plus my own personal experiences in the 7 years I have been collecting: https://www.techradar.com/news/best-turntables


Turntable: Audio-Technica ATLP120USB Direct Drive Professional USB Turntable Price $229.00 (On Sale at the time of this writing) it comes with a built in Pre-Amp so you are good to go. This is one I have been eyeballing myself.


Amplifier: Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver Price $149.95 (On sale at the time I am writing this). This is the one I personally use and I love it. It has multiple channels so you can allow for growth. For example I got a stereo cd player at the local thrift store I am trying to upgrade. I just need RCA Cables to hook it up which I do.


Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Price $49.98 (Sale at the time I am writing this)


Wire from speakers to Amp: AmazonBasics 100ft 16-Gauge Audio Stereo Speaker Wire Cable - 100 Feet Price $13.49


Headphone Adapter (Trust me you'll need this if you want to listen to music via headphones) Adapter Price: $7.99


Subtotal: $450.41‬ plus taxes. I think you have wiggle room on the speakers, but I searched for high rated ones. If you need help setting up your Turntable and Stereo please feel free to reach out and I can help! :D

Hello,

I just wanted some opinions on my setup that I'm asking for Christmas. and yes I know buying used gear is a better choice but I can't expect people giving me gifts to go hunt at thrift stores and craigslist.

Denon DP 300F

Onkyo A-9010 Integrated Stereo Amplifier

Polk Audio T15 Bookshelf Speakers

The Denon has a pre-amp right? So, do I need the Onkyo Amp? If I don't "need" the Onkyo amp would it still be worth the money e.g. improve the sound a noticeable amount?

Is anything I'm buying too cheap or too expensive for my setup? (I'm looking for an entry level setup)

How much more will I get out of a better turntable like the Orbit U-Turn would I, a novice, notice a difference? And if I do get the Orbit (and the Onkyo) should I get the Orbit with or without the pre-amp?

Finally am I making any huge mistakes? Are there any better value options than the parts I've chose?

Polk S15s are not studio monitors and are passive. OP listed them with the SMSL amp to power them. The S15s are regularly recommended on here and are excellent. They're even listed in the sidebar recommendations put together by AudioPhileJoe or whoever he is. In his review he likes them better than the ELAC B5 and Klipsch.

So, OP. For 160/pair they're great. But you can also grab the Sony's for 73USD right now https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SSCS5-3-Driver-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00O8YLMVA/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Sony+bookshelf&qid=1563975540&s=gateway&sr=8-6

But I'd go with the S15s if you don't have or plan on getting a subwoofer. The Sony's won't have the low end like the S15

S15s + used receiver/amp is a great combo.

I posted in last weeks thread but it was switched with this one before my question was fully answered.

After experiencing music in an entirely different way after finally listening to some songs on a half decent pair of headphones I want to get into the audiophile game. I've done a bunch of reading but am still feeling pretty lost amongst all of the different choices. I'm looking for a bedroom system used primarily to play lossless files from my 13'' mid-2012 MacBook Pro; it won't be part of a larger av system. I am familiar with all the different components but not sure where to begin, or what I need. I've got an ~$500-$1k budget but am looking to build up in stages, I'd like to invest in quality essentials with the possibility of future expansion. I don't really understand the difference between receivers, amplifiers and pre-amps, as well as where DACs come into the mix. Some clarification on this would be great.
If I went with a USB Schiit Modi dac, this amp, and these bookshelves, would everything work all right? Am I spending too much in one area and skimping on another?

Thanks