Reddit mentions: The best home automation devices

So I'm a big fan of starting with a bigger picture and going smaller. You need a hub that will control your smart home. Smartthings is a great choice for someone who doesn't necessarily want to tinker, but wants to do some more advanced things. It's inexpensive, can be purchased nearly anywhere, offers iOS and Android apps, and ties in with Google Assistant and Amazon Alexa. HomeAssistant, HomeSeer, and others are great systems for tinkerers but require a certain mindset and knowhow to operate.

What's great about smartthings is it has z-wave and zigbee radios built into it, so you can expand your house with all kinds of sensors. For example, I have Smartthings and sensors on my doors, windows, outlets I control, and much more. Here is the door and window sensors I use to be notified as soon as my doors open and close, here is the outlets I use to control my lamp and cameras, and I also have lights hooked up that I can control as well.

I use my smartthings hub as a makeshift security systems. So whenever a door or window opens, I get notified. If my front door opens between 9 PM and midnight, my kitchen light turns on. If any window or door opens between midnight and 6 AM, all of my lights come on. I also have two indoor cameras hooked up to z-wave outlets (listed above) which I have on between certain hours (when we're not home), so I can easily see if someone comes in or doesn't stop by (ahem, maintenance).

To get started with the front door sensor, you're looking at around $100 with a hub and sensor. You can then expand easily, and trust me, you'll want to. You could even get this smartthings starter kit and secure more than just your front door

There are lots of subreddits you can get in to for this kind of stuff. r/electronics , r/raspberry_pi , r/homeautomation . I recently have started to rig some stuff up. I have an Amazon Echo, a WiFi MagicLight for a bedside light, a WeMo switch for a bedside fan, allowing me for voice operation of both. A lot of home automation switches/lights/sensors run on local signaling systems through ZigBee or Z-Wave standards which require a central hub to manage. Think of it as kind of like a router for your home automated items. I haven't purchased one yet as I am taking everything a step at a time since I don't have the money to just automate my whole house at the drop of a dime, but from my research the Samsung SmartThings hub seems to be one of the more capable hubs on the market currently. From what i've read, it requires a little more tinkering to set some things up (appealing more to the tech-savy), but supports a lot more and is capable of much more than the other hubs on the market. If you are looking for a more easy to setup hub for your home, consider the Wink hub. Finally, if you have a bit more expendable cash at your disposal, the HomeSeer HomeTroller ZS2 hub appears to be a pretty good one along with their software for a home automation interface. Not sure if you were still interested in this stuff, regardless it is pretty neat to be able to voice control your home. As you can see it can be quite an expensive hobby/accomplishment/task whatever you want to call it, I recommend a refurbished Amazon Echo as a starting point and going from there. Cheers!

Here's what you asked for

Hub:
Wink Hub 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D2e7ybH4AEXCA

Bulbs:
Hue White Ambiance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESW34RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_B0e7ybX5B7KF0

Lock:
August Smart Lock (2nd Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXNZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_R3e7ybSK95NFG

Outlets:
GE Z-Wave Wireless Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_04e7ybQXPB1TX

Based on what you said about a nice slick UI I think the Wink 2 wins that battle over a Samsung Smart Things hub. Plus if you get into adding shades Lutron makes a nice z wave shade called the Serena and the Wink 2 can operate Lutron devices without needing another hub. It's not as customizable as Smart Things, but I think it works well and has good support behind it.

The Hue Ambiance bulbs are nice, does tons of white light shades only so it fits your requirements there. You will need a Hue bridge, but that integrates with the Wink 2 nicely.

If you can get the August lock with Z-wave functionality I'd go with that over what I linked because I think the normal August is pretty shit, but it's the only lock I know of where you can assign one time use codes or time sensitive ones. Getting the normal (Bluetooth) August lock online requires the August Connect and its a buggy piece of shit that barely works even with the best connection and very close to the lock. Maybe software will\has fixed it but in my prior experience with it I was very not impressed. You can also add a keypad to the August on the secured side of the door. All those extras add up though, but you can do everything you said was required with the August that I believe no other lock can do.

The outlets are pretty self explanatory, work off Z-wave and only one plug is automated the other is always on.

Alexa can integrate with everything I listed, all you need to do is give everything a unique name and have her find the smart home devices and you can give simple commands like, "Alexa turn off kitchen light" and it'll do it.

You could definitely get more complicated setups but all of these things will work together, you could even pair your Ecobee with the Wink 2 if you wanted to.

Okay few ideas to lower your energy bills...

1. Programmable thermostats. Ideally intelligent ones. Nest is a good choice but it's expensive. Alternatively get any Z-Wave thermostat and a Vera Lite controller (you can do ALL KINDS of cool shit with that thing, I highly recommend it). This lets you stop wasting energy heating/cooling an empty house.
   
   
2. Make sure your system is efficient. Replace the filters, clean the coils, etc.
   
   
3. Look for leaks. Find a day it's especially cold, and make yourself a fan door. Have the fan blow out and go around in your house near windows and whatever looking for leaks. Seal that shit up with foam insulation tape.
   
   
4. Air conditioners can bleed heat. Wrap them with insulating covers in the winter.
   
   
5. Your dryer is your frienemy. If you have a clothes dryer, it is a great source of hot, humid air. In the winter, it's vent should go into a filter box so you save that air inside your apartment. In the summer, it should blow outside.
   
   
6. Change your light bulbs out for CFL or LED bulbs. CFLs use less than 1/3 the power of incandescent, and LEDs are even better. This adds up over time.
   
   
7. If you have a big fancy desktop computer, use the power management function or turn it off. Don't leave it running 24/7. On the other hand, during the winter, fire that shit up and have it mine Bitcoins or something. At least that way your heat makes you a bit of money :)
   
   
8. Use your windows/blinds. This can reduce both your lighting and heating costs. Note that dark colored blinds absorb more light/heat than white blinds. So use dark in the winter, white in the summer.
   
   
9. Use the climate to your advantage. In the summer time, if it gets cool at night, shut off the AC, open your windows, and run a fan.
   
   
10. Use humidity to your advantage. A humidifier uses a lot less power than a heater, but increasing the humidity to 35-40° in the winter will make it feel a couple degrees warmer than it is. Similarly, a dehumidifier uses less power than an air conditioner, but makes it feel cooler. Note however that an air conditioner dehumidifies the air, so don't run both AC and dehumidifier at once.
    
    
11. Use correctly sized air conditioner units. As air passes through an AC, it gets dehumidified as well as cooled. If your AC is too big, it will run for a very short time and then shut off, leaving most of the air not dehumidified so it will feel soggy inside. If your AC is too small, it will run continually and the place will still be hot (or it won't cool down at a useful speed). Before buying ACs, calculate your room volume and figure out exactly what BTU rating you need.
    
    

This is my typical copied and pasted answer which has evolved over the last year or two. We're finishing the obnoxious details on a full century old gut job that we did mostly ourselves and I've learned a ton. Anywhere you see Cat5, simply replace it with Cat6. I used 5 in some places because I had it lying around, but if you're gonna buy a couple thousand feet of Cat6 it won't be that much more. Also, ignore the non networking line items if you want.

• A secondary 5x18 thermostat wire to the second floor in case I want to do dual zone heating/cooling
  
• Wires for wireless access points on every floor and in every room you could possibly want them in. - - - Remember, you don't have to give them a plate but at least run them and take detailed notes/photos/videos of where they are.
  
• Multiple Cat5 (because I had it lying around), Cat6 and coax in all bedrooms and anywhere I thought I might need them. If they're there and you don't need them, all you have is a switch plate cover. If you don't have them, you have a solid multiple hours worth of frustrating work.
  
• Power lines, coax and cat6 for security cameras if you think you'd like to install them at some point.
  
• Power and control lines (I used 5/18g thermostat wire) for automated/motorized blinds. Again, you can hide these and use them later if you want.
  
• A centralized "home run" for all the wiring. All my network and coax lines converge on one place in the basement. Don't be stingy with the cable lengths either. Chances are you're buying Cat6 in 1000 foot spools. You'll have spare....
  
• If you're into home automation at all you might look into running low voltage lines or network lines to various places.
  
  Just for your home run network cabinet:
  
  
• Network Switch
  
• Network attached storage or two
  
• Home control module
  
• PC or two (I currently have 3 wired)
  
• DVR for security camera system
  -Sonos sound bridge
  
• Ethernet ready IR repeaters (Harmony Elite)
  
• TV DVR/Network Box
  
• Smart TV (assume one for each room)
  
• XBox/Ps4/Wii
  
• Chromecast/Chromecast Music
  
• Wireless Access points
  
• Home Theater A/V receiver
  
• Media server
  
  ....and that's just for the wiring. As far as the construction is concerned:
  
  
• Insulate between key interior walls and ceilings. Both of our bathrooms have fiberglass insulation inside them and I put the thick stuff in the ceiling of the livingroom as it's right above our bedroom. It makes a big difference in sound transfer. If you're worried about running future wiring, as many others have already said, just run conduit. Conduit and future proofing are cheap compared to the time it takes to snake a wire through an insulation filled wall.
  
  
• The concept of walls and doorways is fluid. Don't like a wall there? Throw up a header and knock it down. Want to move a doorway, frame it and move it. Framing is easy. The devil is in the details.
  
  
• Zoned HVAC. I'm not as enamored with mini split systems as some are. The efficiency of central heating/cooling is such that a properly designed system will offer as much efficiency and almost as much functionality with zoning.
  
  
• Air seal. I went overboard on insulation in some places but until I got down to business and foamed/caulked all the right joints our house was pretty drafty.
  
  
• You can never have too many outlets. I added more than I thought I'd need and I wish I had more.
  
  
• Run and cap a natural gas line to your BBQ area so you don't have to worry about propane tanks. Even if your new fangled gas oven won't work without electricity a grill just needs a piezo igniter and you're cookin.
  
  
• If you have the space/$$ get a natural gas backup generator. They're not all that expensive (compared to a fridge and freezer full of food even) and take little maintenance. Especially necessary if you're in an earthquake/tornado/ice prone area.
  
  
• Heated floors in the kitchen and bathroom. Most systems come with timers and schedules just like a thermostat. Many people spend multiple hours a day in the kitchen and there's nothing quite like a pre-heated bathroom floor first thing in the morning.
  
  
• If you're redoing yard completely, consider where you'd like to have extra hose lines. Trenching with a trencher is easy and might keep you from having hoses all over the lawn.
  
  
• Same goes for low voltage lines for landscaping lights. I know most of them are solar these days, but with led lighting so cheap it won't hurt to run low voltage line through a conduit for lighting, security systems, automated watering systems, or whatever you want.
  
  
  
  I'm sure there's plenty more depending on the person/family.

You could try fishing a neutral wire from the ceiling fixturewall outlet to the switchbox. I've done it in my house, but I don't know if I would try it in an apartment.

Alternative products: Since this switch controls an outlet, it's against code to use a dimmer switch on it. And dimmer switches are the only "smart" products I'm aware of that can operate without a neutral.

You're probably better off replacing the wall outlet with a smart outlet or any smart wall wart. Here's GE's in-wall smart outlet since you seem to be leaning toward zwave already.

You can control that smart outlet with something like GE's wall controller or velcro an aeotec minimote to the wall and use that. Even better - you could use an Amazon Echo for control - I rarely physically interact with smart switches since I got a modicum of automation running and a few Echos around the house for voice control.

This is a really cool idea! Once you have this working you really need to post a "How-to", I think a lot of people would like something like this for their driveways. You could even have your speakers say "car entering driveway" or something when someone pulls up. Anyways, for the how-to (source, I'm an electrical engineer but 'non practicing', so I'm somewhat good with this stuff but not an expert):

I believe the door sensor works by sensing when the loop of wire is closed, vs having a contact voltage applied to it. You can test this easily by just touching the two terminals together with a piece of wire, and seeing if it properly triggers. If this is the case, you may need to incorporate a small relay into this project to close the sensors together. To trigger the relay, you could use the voltage from every time the LED is triggered.

You'll need a simple voltmeter if you don't have one already. These are very cheap and helpful to have around the house. Here's one that's cheap and seems to get good reviews. Use this to measure the voltage across at the LED when it's 'on'. If this is 5V-12V, you can use this relay which is for simple arduino projects, and is controllable via TTL signals.

You would connect the + and - terminals on the back of that relay board to the power supply in the driveway module you have. That provides power to the relay board. The, figure out which pin is driving that LED (the line will go from 0V to 5V when it triggers), and connect a wire to the 'S' pin on the back of the relay board. Now, when the LED changes to the on position, it will also flip your relay 'closed'. Simply connect each relay output terminal (front of the relay board) to the door sensor, one to each side. Now when the relay closes, it should also trigger your door sensor.

Hopefully this makes sense... let me know if you have any questions and good luck! Soldering is not all that hard once you get the hang of it. Just remember that you're trying to heat up the components metal contacts, and then apply solder to that (vs applying solder iron directly to the solder). This prevents cold contacts, which can break overtime.

From your pattern of questioning I get the idea that you are asking what can be controlled with Alexa in the absence of external smart devices.

The most basic answer is nothing can be. In the aspect of control, Alexa is a system to provide the interface between you and smart devices such as outlets, bulbs, some TVs and other entertainment devices but unless you already have an "Alexa compatible device" you are going to have to add WiFi capable smart switches, smart outlets, and/or smart lights to gain any modicum of control.

There are hub-based system that integrate with Alexa (as well as other voice-controlled systems) that are more secure or offer more function but they are also much more costly.

There are also TVs and other noise and light makers that will integrate with voice-control systems like Alexa.

If you have no smart devices like those named above then Alexa will only provide information and entertainment which, for some, is enough.

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

​

Motivation behind this setup: There are no overhead lights in the living room. So the lights we use are regular floor lamps. The wall outlets are not connected to any wall switches. So we use the etekcity remotes and outlets. It's nice because the remote sits centrally located in the living room on the coffee table.

Here is my setup:

- Etekcity remote controlled outlets, 5pk set, with 2 remotes: amzn link

- I wanted more remotes, so I bought more: amzn link

But you'll notice that the remotes are not paired to the outlets. Yes, the outlets have a "learn" button, but ... You have to think of it like this, the outlet learns the remote's code, not the other way around. So what if your remotes (the transmitters) have different codes? it doesn't work. So the only way to fix that is to make all the remotes transmit the same codes. So that's where you go to this review on amazon and do some soldering "It's about a 5 minute job if you're handy with a soldering iron." If you're not confortable with soldering, this is such an easy job that you could find a friend that does solder and show them the amazon review and have them do it for you.

So now I have 4 remotes (transmitters) controlling 5 outlets. Each transmitter has 5 pairs of on/off buttons and each transmitter operates the same way.

Outlet 1: Living room light 1

Outlet 2: Living room light 2

Outlet 3: Something

Outlet 4: small reading lamp in bedroom

Outlet 5: Main light in bedroom

Transmitter 1: living room coffee table

Transmitter 2: on the wall by the door to the bedroom

Transmitter 3: My side of bed

Transmitter 4: Wife's side of bed.

(Bonus: if I'm in the bedroom in bed and forgot to turn off the living room lights, I can use the same remote to turn off the living room lights)

Then, I paired the RF transmitter/outlets with a "Hook". (This particular smart home device does not appear to be available for sale any more, but it's still working for now. An alternative appears to be the Broadlink or Sonoff). The "hook" connects to the internet and converts internet commands to RF so that my Alexa can communicate with the RF outlets/lights.

So in summary, I have a wife-approved smart home situation. The wife can use the remote or Alexa to turn on or off these 5 lights. Nothing gets messed up if a light is turned on with one method and off with another. The setup doesn't care.

It depends if you want to control everything from one place or don;t mind using a separate app for each thing. IF you want an all-in-one solution, the best bet is a Vera pro or VeraLite from MiCasaVerde. You don't have to re-invent the wheel as most of your wants will work right out of the box. What it doesn't natively do, it is almost guaranteed that someone has already done the modification and you can just grab their code.

For the lock I would go with a Yale or Schlage. Even Kwikset has zigbee and z-wave models. Honeywell makes a nice thermostat for cheap. There are several ways to integrate your doorbell as well.

Otherwise, Nest is great, Dropcam is awesome, There are a whole host of cool single-focus products out there.

Hi,

If you want a primer on current security camera technology, my guide to IP cameras may help. As you will find though, I am not one who recommends storing everything on the cloud.

For a doorbell, if you want a ready to use device, consider the Ring Doorbell. If you are happy to go the DIY home automation route, you can use a standard bell linked to a home automation gateway device which can then pretty much trigger any event/action you need. Eg. Play a sound through your home theatre or SONOS, take a picture from the security camera and email to your phone, send a push notification to your phone, automatically play a recorded greeting etc. An example of a gateway device is the Vera Plus.

In fact this is going to be my next project!

Daniel

Great work! I was a little surprised that Wink isn't on there. For $35 the 1st gen hub is a great entry point for beginners as a Zigbee/Z-Wave radio. I used Wink's built in automations (Robots) to get started while getting HA up and running. It's easy to turn Wink into a "dumb" hub once you get HA all figured out, then you can look into dedicated radios for HA to take Wink out of the picture completely. Wink can be a little slow at times, but it is a great low cost entry point.

You also might want to add Sengled Element bulbs and Sylvania Smart+ color bulb, they are inexpensive and work extremely well!

Hub: Wink Hub 2 -- very similar functionality as the SmartThings but more device type compatibilities (Lutron, etc.) and I'd recommend it since it seems to have a nicer user experience / easier setup, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Wink-WNKHUB-2US-Hub-2/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=sr_1_1

Lamps: I would recommend these since they are easy (no wiring). https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRPD3-1LW-Capable-Dimming-Module/dp/B00JFF4RG4/ref=sr_1_2 -- I prefer this to smart light bulbs since light bulbs can break and every bulb doesn't fit every fixture.

Voice Echo or Echo Dots, but that's mostly personal preference

TV Harmony

I got a family member very into home automation by simply purchasing a Wink Hub 2, an Echo Dot, and a Leviton Lamp Dimmer.

ST uses Zwave or Zigbee wireless protocols, for low power mesh networks.

Offhand, I don't know of any device that's purpose-built for what you want to do. That is, I don't know of a single battery powered, low-power zigbee/ZWave wireless device with a ready-to-go interface for an external switch, let alone a bank of them.

​

1. Do you want it to be powered with a low-power battery? You could modify an existing device. In that case, I would suggest getting your hands on a Zwave remote with multiple buttons, and seeing if you can wire to that. I have one of these and it works well. But you'd not only have to physically modify it, you might have to generate a custom handler because the buttons have both tap and hold event generation.
   
   ​
   
   

2. I suppose you could also modify a moisture/leak sensor. But that's gonna be $25+ per channel.
   
   ​
   
   
3. If you can power it with 110V, you can use one of these. These are designed to be used behind regular wall switches. In this case you wouldn't hook their load up to anything, but the sense would be set to your switches, and they would generate events when switched. Again, $25 per channel or so.
   
   ​
   
   
4. As someone else suggested, use an arduino/other microcontroller. This could be a battery or wall-wort powered device, and you could easily have a dozen switches attached with extremely simple code and directly hooking up the wires, or you could expand to hundreds of switches with a shift register. In the grand scheme of electronic design, we're talking 2-3/10 in terms of difficulty. It's also possible to create a chargeable version that would probably last several days at a time.
   
   ​
   
   4a) If you go this route, I would actually look into a Particle Argon device (www.particle.io). These are basically suped-up arduinos but with all the server side network communication and rechargeable LiPo hardware built in. They are about as close to a plug-and-play version of what you would want as I can think of. $25 for the basic device. Note: There is a lower-power version that uses their own mesh network to communicate. But you would also have to get one of the Wifi versions to act as a bridge.
   
   ​
   
   4b) For and of the custom electronics/arduino versions, essentially what you need is something network connected that can make an http:// call, and the easiest way I can think to integrate that http:// call would be via WebCORE; you would create a webcore routine (called a piston) and you are provided with a URL that will trigger that routine. You would then add that URL to your custom code. The Argon device I mentioned above could do this, but also has hooks for IFTTT or other cloud-based services.
   
   4c) You should also look into ESP32s, which are another flavor of network ready Arduino compatible microcontrollers. However, if you plan to push any info BACK to your device (which you did not describe), this becomes a little more difficult for a novice. Also, I am not sure if there are battery ready versions. EDIT: Yes there are.
   
   ​
   
   Personally: I would go with the Argon, but if you are completely unfamiliar with arduino and how web services work, it may be a steep learning curve.

I have a MyQ with Liftmaster openers, so I haven’t tried this but if you’re willing to use Aladdin Connect then it looks like you may be able to tweak the settings via the Lowe’s IRIS app, then use a Homebridge plugin to add it to HomeKit.

EDIT: I really don’t know if that’s possible without Aladdin in the mix.

This might be another option (maybe else someone can verify):

BOND | Smart Home Automation | Make your Ceiling Fan or Fireplace Smart through WiFi | Works with Alexa, Google Home | Remote Control with App | Works with iPhone or Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/

Bond Bridges support RFs between 300 MHz - 434 MHz, but I’m not sure if they can support garage doors yet. It works well for my ceiling fans though.

EDIT: Homebridge plugin here: https://www.npmjs.com/package/node-iris-aladdin-connect-garage-door

EDIT 2: It also just dawned me that Bond does not support HomeKit natively yet. It can be made to work with some Homebridge plug-ins, but I doubt that would help with the garage door problem.

I standardized on Z-Wave and Zigbee stuff - more Z-Wave than Zigbee. I used a SmartThings hub in this house, and so I used these sensors. I put one under each sink in the house, plus one near the main stack in the basement and the hot water heater.

If I could, I'd also recommend adding a couple of HA CO/smoke sensors. Again, z-wave for me, but I used this First Alert model. If I get smoke or CO at any time, it alerts my phone, and I'm a huge fan of that.

One note on those smoke detectors - some places have highly specific laws on what smoke detectors you must legally have, and these do not match code where I live. I run double sets - one set that matches code and then this set for the HA side. It's not a problem to have more smoke/CO detectors, and it's a cheap and potentially life or property saving upgrade.

Lights: I prefer switches over smart bulbs. I have a lot of the GE toggle and dimmer switches.

Entertainment: Logitech Harmony remote with the hub integrates well. If their setup is simple, the Companion is decent. If it is more complicated you might want something with a screen like the Elite

Security: I think Ring is more open, Google seems to be locking nest down so it doesn't integrate with other things as well.

Additional things: Look into getting a fire tablet and running Action Tiles. I like it to see the status of everything and know what is on/off at a glance. Thermostat, Smart locks, garage door opener, sensors on other doors/windows are other things that can be added in the future.

No mention of Zwave? I have my locks, lights, lamps, fans and various other appliances all controlled from a central hub, with simple scripting of events based on time, date, calendar,gcal event, sunset/sunrise, server state, etc. I can turn lights on/off, lock/unlock doors, etc from hundreds of miles away, from my phone or a web browser. I have conditions set that will email me when certain things happen( TV turned on, door unlocked, etc). If I want to put the money out there, I can buy active power monitoring devices that give me a live/aggrgate feed of all power used. If I wanted, I can tie in live, internet camera feeds. All of this has no monthly cost, no service fee. The web console is super easy to script, giving the user a GUI that walks you through setting them up, and then some meatier tools down the line if you want to skip over the middle man. I can script 5 appliances to change state 15-30 times in 5 minutes if I like. Nothing to it.

Currently, I have one lock, 2 lamps, a dimmer switch, a fan, and a set of motion lights all going for the cost of $800. The great part is that the system is modulaur. Once you get the $200 controller, you can just buy another device at $50-200 a pop until your house does exactly what you tell it.

All of this is possible right now. No need to wait for microsoft to introduce a beta project. All you need is the micasaverde lite to start.

Yes but how do I fit two switches where only one was before and without running another 3 way switch wire?
Is it as simple as getting a dual rocker switch like https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-Single-Pole-Decorator-Combination-Residential/dp/B075KJMSP3 and a couple of relays like these https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8 ?
It seems like an overly complicated solution to me and i'm not even sure if it would work.

Okay, since every comment here is a joke, I'll provide a real solution.

First, you'll need one of these. This is a working solution for what is the hardest part - the mechanical flushing of the toilet. Additionally, this setup will not remove the old functionality of using the lever as a manual backup. From here, you have two options: You can make use of the touchless mechanism or bypass it.

To bypass it, you'll need to open it up and soldier a couple wires where the wireless sensor would normally close the circuit. Then, run those wires to some IoT device like a RasPi to briefly complete the circuit on network command. Then setup Home Assistant with an emulated Hue bridge, and expose that to Alexa.

To work with the touchless sensor you'll now need some sort of mechanism to move over the top of your toilet lid. Since you're opting for the "buy-everything-no-soldier-or-raspi" solution, you could use something like a MicroBot Push. Tape a bit of cardboard on the end, and mount it just right so that it gets treated as a hand wave. MicroBot has Alexa integration, so you're good to go!

But, voice controls are not automation. What you really want is for the toilet to flush when you walk away. Get a floor pressure sensor and wire it up to a z-wave door sensor. When you walk across the mat, it'll close the circuit, just like moving the door sensor's magnet. Place this in the doorway of your toilet/bathroom. Now setup a Home Assistant script to activate the toilet every other time (leaving, but not entering).

Now you too can be living the dream. :)

I got this done in fewer steps with my Echo. It should work the same on Google Home since you're interfacing with Samsung SmartThings.

For the longest time I was trying to find a WiFi-controlled switch, and I found it with the WeMo Maker. I didn't want to go the RPi route, but certainly that makes a lot of sense.

Here's the complete list of what you'll need for my method.

-WeMo Maker
-Samsung SmartThings hub (no device needed since we'll make a virtual switch)
-IFTTT
-Echo/Google Home

1. Set up the Wemo maker to work with your fireplace. I'm not an electrician, but my gas fireplace previously used an RF-controlled momentary switch. It's just two red wires, when held together, that starts the flame. I put those wires into the switch controller of the WeMo maker and was immediately able to control the fireplace with the switch.
   
   
2. Create a new Virtual Switch in SmartThings (Google how to do it, it's not difficult), and call it "Fireplace"
   
   
3. Connect IFTTT to your WeMo and SmartThings account. Use IFTTT to have the SmartThings virtual switch turn on the WeMo Maker. Confirm it works.
   
   
4. Use the Alexa app to "discover devices" which should find the SmartThings virtual switch "Fireplace"
   
   
5. Boom: saying "Alexa, fireplace on" or "Alexa, fireplace off" works!
   
   Bonus! I bought a cheap Z-wave remote, interfaced it with SmartThings, and had it toggle the virtual switch. So I can put one of these remotes in my bedroom near my nightstand and when I wake up in the morning, hit the button and boom, fire is warming up. You can have multiple removes that do this same thing. My wife hates talking to my Echo (she refuses to talk to a cylindrical object--can someone give her a pep talk lol), so the remote is a good backup for her to use. This is what I used:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480279272&sr=8-1&keywords=aeon+minimote
   
   Happy to answer any questions about this method :)

I picked up a couple. Using one for myself with a Wink Hub to control different types of lights and receptacles. It is pretty cool to tell "Alexa, turn on the deck lights." among other things. I noticed that my D&B is stocking some Vivitar Smart Bulbs that have a built in speaker. I think they are bluetooth so you would need some kind of hub to control them with the Amazon Echo. This is the one I picked up which seems to work pretty well and supports multiple protocols. https://www.amazon.com/Wink-PWHUB-WH18-Connected-Home-Hub/dp/B00PV6GAI4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1477996666&sr=1-1&keywords=wink+hub

This kit with the hub and door sensors: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-F-MN-Monitoring-White/dp/B076HFQ2B9/

And this light switch: https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Dimmer-ZEN22-Regular-Required/dp/B074V8PG51/

Basically every first-party Smartthings sensor is top-quality, so that's an easy place to start. Zooz is like the go-to reasonably priced switch too.

For lighting, I would recommend avoiding smart bulbs except in very certain circumstances. A smart outlet for a lamp or a smart in-wall switch for installed lights is generally the way to go.

I'm assuming you don't already have a switch in the place you'd like to add one? In that case, a zwave remote is your best bet. If you want something that looks like it belongs on a wal, this would be a good option. If you just want a cheap solution, a minimote would also work.

>From what I am reading I can just buy a Z-Wave USB stick and use it on the PC that is hosting HASS?

Yup. I have one of these, works great: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

>Are there zwave switches that arent a physical switch?

How about just getting one of these? https://smile.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM/

>Are there any zwave relays?

There are, though I'm not aware of anything 12v.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/

https://smile.amazon.com/Vision-Z-Wave-Micro-Switch-relay/dp/B00R883YKU/

>Any ideas on how that can be accomplished?

No idea on this on. I'm sure it's possible with HASS. At the very least you can call and external script to make said announcement. You might ask out on the forums, they have a good community: https://community.home-assistant.io/

Cheers!

I have seen people setting up integration with RM-Bridge but that was too clunky for me. Im leveraging a custom Alexa skill and a local NodeJS server that utilizes python-broadlink and BlackBeanControl. I bought two Broadlink RM3 mini's for controlling a TV and Apple TV upstairs and a entertainment center downstairs.

It works pretty well and as soon as I clean up the code and write a how-to I plan to publish this to Github.

I am also looking for something very similar, except I would like it to be powered off of 120v AC. Right now I am using Aeon Minimote spliced together with an addon remote switch.

The addon remote switch is essentially just a button that looks like a light switch. I soldered the button from that to one of the buttons on the Aeon Minimote, so when I push the remote switch button it is the same as pressing the Aeon Minimote button.

The minimote is small already, but you can remote the casing so it can fit under other switches in the gang box, as well as remove the unnecessary parts of the remote switch that make it hook into the standard 120v lines like a normal light switch.

I have two problems with this solution which is why I am still looking for a better solution:

1. It is battery powered so I will need to take it out and recharge it every ~4-6 months.
   
2. It seems to not register the 1st push most of the time, which is pretty annoying and has low WAF. I usually need to wait a second to see if the lights respond, or push once and push and hold which I have mapped to full brightness.
   This may be a problem with my remote, or a signal strength/connection issue since the remote is inside the metal gang box inside the wall.
   
   
   I am trying to control Hue lights (on/off) with a normal looking light switch, and am open to other ideas if people have them. I figure if I can fix the connection issue, I will live with them being battery powered.

Are you talking about this relay https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/?

Yes, it needs it's own power.

I'm assuming your buck converter is 5v out? If so, you've got a perfect power source for it! Hook up the gnd/vcc to the buck.

The signal pin is good with any logic signal from 5v to 12v. (Although reviews report 3v works as well to trigger!).

Note for the motor, you can't just use common, and NO. You need to use normally closed (NC) also, and apply motor braking to the pusher in order to get good results.

This is why I advised just using a raw relay with no PCB for this case.

With a raw relay, you'll have 5 pins.
C, NO, NC, coil pin, coil pin.

The two coil pins go directly to the original +/- wires coming from the motor wire.

Since the regulator circuit is already expecting to drive a fairly heavy inductive load, I'd expect it to have 0 problems with a tiny inductive relay load. (Aka, no need for flyback diodes on the coil pins).

Then just wire the motor up to the relay such that when the coil is energized, the motor is going, and when not energized, the motor is braking.

I haven't done that myself, but I've heard reports that the above methods works well.

If you don't understand how to wire a motor to a relay such that when the coil is energized, the motor runs, and when the coil is not energized, the motor brakes, please do ask.

www.gocontrol.com/detail.php?productId=12

I have no personal experience with this particular device but I do use go control door/window sensors without issue.

Another option, over $100 spendy! http://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/z-wave-lighting/dimmer-switches/battery-operated-z-wave-dimmer-switch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KU7ERAW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498307662&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=zwave+remote+control&dpPl=1&dpID=41TL10uhQxL&ref=plSrch

This is what I use to control Caitlin fans and lights in the house. Four buttons capable of two commands each. Light control and fan control in a small package. This is one of the best zwave deals out there.

Already good comments here, but TBF the best remote things are outlets and wall switches. That way if/when you hit a switch to turn something off the 'old' way it will still respond if you want it on.

Also, you need a hub. Smartthings or Wink.
The rest are worthless (Hue hub and all the other hubs). IMO Philips Hue is lame. If you want colored bulbs go get Sylvania lightify (cheaper, less crap in your house since it doesn't need its own hub).

Ideal starter setup would be an echo dot $50, a hub $100, two wall switches ($30ea) (for unswitched outlets) and a couple wall paddle switches ($30ea). That much hardware would set you back about $270, but would add a fair bit of fun and convenience.

Alright! So if it were me, I would do a camera covering the front drive or the windows to the basement if you have any.

Cost: $36

This little guy supports a range of programs and email alerts.

Then I would cover the windows to the basement with these. They scream if they sense the glass has been broken or vibrated.

Cost: $25 for two.

Add in 10 magnetic alarms on windows and any door you want.

Cost: $11

And to finish it off, setup this wireless motion detector in your basement and you can it set to email on motion alerts. You can even set it for certain times when you know you are not home.

Cost $40

Total: $112

Or you could do an all in one system.

Get a wink hub. This thing will connect to your smart phone and will tell you everything that is going on in your house by whatever you attach to it. Its pretty cool.

Cost: $70

Get the door/ window alarms for it that connect to the hub.

Cost: $65 for two

Add in a motion detection in the basement that connects to the hub.

Cost: $28

Total: $163 Barely over budget.

You can even connect that camera to it thats listed at the top of this post. Wink connects all the compatible products and allows you to control/access them from your smart phone with alerts.

Let me know if you have any questions! Hope this helps.

You have 3 options.

First is just the hub with no physical remote. There’s a smartphone app that has to be used to control everything.

Harmony Home Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3RFC4Q.

Second is the hub with what they call a “simple remote”. The simple remote is a physical remote that can control up to 8 devices and 6 activities. This is the version I use and highly recommend. The remote actually has a very good build quality and I like it better than the fancy remote because it’s battery lasts forever and it’s much more durable so not a big deal if my kid drops it.

Harmony Companion Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3RFC4G.

This last one comes with the hub and the high end elite remote. The elite remote can control more devices and activities than the simple remote but most people won’t need it. It also has a customizable touch screen that you can program to do whatever you want.


Logitech Harmony Elite Remote Control, Hub & App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014PDFP9S

No matter which of those 3 options you get it’s the exact same hub and the smart phone app works for all of them. The physical remote is the only difference.

1. buy a different solenoid. There are variable voltage ones out there like 3-12v but you will most likely run into the wiimote not supplying enough current to push both the solenoid and rumble motor.
   
   
2. (best option) Use a relay to trigger the 12v off of the 5v rumble if the wii mote rumble is a full 5v pulse/pwm (probably is). Then, use any number of rechargeable 12v battery, 8 1.5v AA eneloop rechargeable batteries, or 3x 14500 lithium ion batteries (11.1v total but would usually be 12v and same size as AA batteries) for the solenoid.
   
   Items:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213485&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+relay
   
   If you need to save on some space, go with a Solid State Relay like this:
   https://www.amazon.com/G3MB-202P-DC-AC-Solid-State-Module/dp/B01JCPPBI4/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213949&sr=1-3&keywords=5v+solid+state+relay
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213257&sr=8-8&keywords=small+12v+battery
   
   or
   
   Get this and a 3x AA battery holder for your 11.1 volts
   https://www.amazon.com/WAY%C2%AECharger-2000mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Flashlight/dp/B00PIDNTRA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213739&sr=1-3&keywords=Lithium-ion+AA
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Gfortune-Cable-Plastic-Batteries-Holder/dp/B06XW8QC6N/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213842&sr=1-3&keywords=3+cell+aa+battery+holder

If you're intending to draw heat back down, I'm assuming you've reversed direction on your fan? If you reverse direction it shouldn't really feel chilly below.

You can accomplish what you desire with any of the various forms of automation out there. Probably smart things (don't know since I'm not a user), definitely home assistant or node red. Just need to set an automation using either the ecobee as the trigger, or a temp sensor somewhere. You should be able to put the temp sensor somewhere out of visibility. You can control the fan with a smart switch, or something like Bond, which would enable you to use Google home or Amazon Echo to control the fan as part of the automation.

BOND | Smart Home Automation | Make Your Old Ceiling Fan or Fireplace Smart Through WiFi | Works with Alexa and Google Home | Remote Control with App | Compatible with iPhone or Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Fd7Bb17X33BJ

It's a bit pricey but can control up to 6 fans and you don't need to see it since it will talk to GH or echo over wifi. They go on sale from time to time also.

It's pretty simple if you use a 5v relay. You can think of a 'relay' like a light-switch that can be turned off and on with a digital pin on the arduino. You will actually hear a mechanical 'click' when you trigger it.

So you can use a 5v relay like this one to control a 12v power supply like this one.

And then wire it up with your light like this.

​

Let me know if you have any questions about how to use the relay properly.

Your worst case scenario is to put 2 remote zwave switches up in the ceiling fan. This will require bypassing the remote module in the fan, and wiring the lights driectly to one of these zwave switches. Secondly, You would remove the wall switch as it won't help this setup (wire it straight through and put a cover on the box.) And finally, you would still have to use the original remote to control fan speed. Maybe put a zwave scene controller panel over the unused wall switch box.

If you open the wall switch box and you find that 14-3 wire was run between the switch and fan, then your options just got alot better. You could expand the box to be 2 gangs, Put in a zwave switch for the lights, zwave fan controller, and send the power down that the black wire, and the other the red. You'll still have to bypass the fan's remote control module, but now for the fan and the lights as the zwave in wall fan controller will handle the speed.

I went from a Vera3 to a Homeseer SEL Pro. (An SEL is essentially a $$250-$300 nuc running Linux with the HS3 software preinstalled)

HomeSeer is an incredibly easy to set up system. The HS3 event system is menu driven and very capable. HS is about the only pre-built system with support for more 3rd party devices than Vera. I was able to recreate a lot of Vera scenes (with quite a bit of Luup script and Pleg) using the HS menu system in just a few hours.

An HS Zee2 ($200) is only a little more money than a VeraPlus ($150), but it has 4x the ram and close to 8x the CPU power. (Veras are essentially router hardware running OpenWRT with extra radios. A Pi3 has more cpu cores that are clocked faster, more ram, etc)

Having said that, Amazon has the Plus on sale for $110 right now, which is a really good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Vera-Control-VeraPlus-US-Smart-Controller/dp/B01BX9P89Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536373058&sr=8-1&keywords=veraplus

>I don't believe there's any way to make any dumb appliance smart

Well on a very basic level you could add something like SwitchBots to each of the buttons on the front and some kind of camera or sensor to monitor the status, then it would be just like using it when you are there. That said it would likely look horrible and make it difficult to use locally.

You could wire something like an ESP8266 in to it to simulate button presses, but that is going to be a bit more complicated to get working and you'd have to take the machine apart a bit. If you could get that working it would likely be nice and clean though.

I actually just have my dishwasher on a smart switch which I user for power monitoring, I just use this to tell when the machine is on or off and then it can notify me that it is ready to empty. Some devices do actually store their status, my machine does for example so I could cut the power and later turn it on and it would start the cycle at that point, but it has delayed start anyway so I would just use that.

Currently controlling Honeywell thermostat with Alexa. Single zone

The purpose of my question is to cool the bedroom(s) at night and let the rest of the house be warmer. I just don't want to drop the cash required for a 4 zone system.


If I wired on or off electrical dampers with something like:

Enerwave Z-Wave Plus ZWN-RSM1 Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights & Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IMYhzbYEXKF1J

Couldn't I simply close off all areas I don't need cooled. I would imagine someone smarter than me could set up a web interface or IFTTT that could reference wifi temp sensors to command av on off based on which dampers were on or off.

This is my favorite solution so far. My only reservation is having a dependency on SmartThings to shut off the fan, versus the timer switch.


Would it be possible to use a Z-Wave Micro Switch and keep my physical timer switch?


My thought is that if everything is working (SmartThings), then the automation would start the fan and shut off the fan. But for any reason, if my automation/smartthing, isn't working, everything still acts normal via the physical timer switch.

> Atomi smart coffee maker

https://www.amazon.com/SwitchBot-switch-button-controlled-compatible/dp/B07B7NXV4R/ref=sr_1_20_sspa?keywords=alexa+enabled+smart+switch+push+button&qid=1575124001&smid=AZJMNAZLHZV6F&sr=8-20-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyR1JBQk05NjJZQjdGJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDU5MDIyM040WVZKWVE2UFlHWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjA3OTIwSTg1SkNNMVNTN1NSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

​

maybe something like this? I have read a few success stories. Maybe not real elegant, and may take some creative adhering.

I have a Schlage BE469 and have it hooked up to the house Wifi via a Wink Hub 2 - super easy to set up, and administer it remotely with Wink's phone app (provision new codes, delete old codes, etc.). I have "permanent" codes for myself, my cleaner, etc. It also has an activity log so I know when guests arrive and depart (or any other time they lock/unlock the door). I also know how long my cleaner spent at the property.

I like the Schlage lock over the August because of the built-in keypad.

​

Oh Wow! This just made my cheap home automation even cheaper.. This is my rig: a 2x $30 pack of 5 RF outlets and a $50 Hook that converts these outlets into smart outlets, with a $49 echo dot now i can control all my lamps and appliances in my home all under $200 with my Voice and my phone.. Loving it!

I bought a house with motorized blinds operated by a remote control. I purchased a Bond smart home device to control my ceiling fans. It basically replaced my remote.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_mBPBCbST25VJ5

It works perfectly with Google Home. The next thing they're adding is motorized blind control. It's a solid device that's as easy to set up and use as any of my smart lights and I can't wait to control my blinds with it.

You would need to use an IR blaster to send the TV the commands to power on/off and change source.

You could use this with Home Assistant:
BroadLink IR Control Hub Works with Amazon Alexa, RM Mini3 Smart Home Wi-Fi Enabled Infrared Universal Remote Control, One for All Control ( Black Bean RMMINI3-EN ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ODSSBbPKCNVDV

It will work best if your tv supports distinct source commands (aka if the remote for your tv has a button for HDMI 1, Hdmi 2 ,etc...)

OK got it. I hope you don't mind all my questions. Hopfully this is the last of it.

I have amazon prime so is this close enough to your link above: https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Module-Arduino-Official-Boards/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474495841&sr=8-1&keywords=5V+to+12v+relay

Also, what end would I connect the 5v to trigger the other end 12v?

Thanks again!

Best way I can think of would be to get a scene controller like this or a remote like this or this. Just note that you'll need to use another hub to control them, whether it is Home Assistant with a uzb stick, smartthings, wink, or something else. Other than that, you could stick a cheap tablet on the wall and just have the LIFX app running constantly.

EDIT: I see that is sounds like you haven't actually purchased the LIFX bulbs yet. If that's true you may just want to go with Philips Hue and add a Hue Tap instead. Kinda ugly but it's a much easier setup. Hue is a lot cheaper than LIFX anyway if you want more than 1 bulb

you could airways 'borrow' one, and program something like this (I have 4 of those fans, and all can be controlled with one Bond unit and app). or search for "universal rf ceiling fan remote" on eBay or elsewhere. Good luck!

SUPERNIGHT 5M/16.4 Ft SMD 3528 RGB 300 LED Color Changing Kit with Flexible Strip Light+24 Key IR Remote Control+ Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BP4DUMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CXJHAbJMEYABM

And

Nexlux WiFi Wireless LED Smart Controller Working with Android and IOS System Mobile Phone Free App for GRB LED Light Strips 5050 3528 LEDs Comes With One 24 Keys Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07116SX41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4XJHAbKQHB744

Download the app for the controller and you can customize it fully via your smart phone.

Ok, so if you want to control just the tv and sound and the shield I'd suggest the Harmony 650. Cheap and effective.

I'm not really familiar with harmony's other smart features, but my guess is you'd need the hub.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Elite-Remote-Control/dp/B014PDFP9S/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503938792&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=harmony+hub&psc=1

I have a basic version of the hub with a more basic remote. The hub is very nice to have.

The easiest and cheapest of the shelf solution would be a button press switch like this one: SwitchBot, smart switch button with timer app controlled wifi switch DIY tools (with a Hub compatible with Alexa, Google Home, IFTTT) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B4D9KVX
You would simply stick this to your spare car remote. Set up the switch to be called car. Add the skill to Alexa. Now you can make the button very pushed by saying "Alexa, turn on the car". All for under $30

Incidentally, this switchbot device is perfect for dumb devices you have that have a physical switch on them so they can't be controlled by a wall switch or plug in unit.

Here is the home automation controller I use:
http://www.amazon.com/Mi-Casa-Verde-VeraLite-Controller/dp/B007005364/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394328826&sr=8-1&keywords=veralite

Here is the deadbolt that I purchased:
http://liquidationlocks.com/product/kwikset-smartcode-keyless-entry-910-series-deadbolt-with-z-wave

The prices have gone up slightly since I commented, but it's still a good deal. If you want to add light switches and other devices later, it turns out to be an even better deal.

Hang out in /r/homeautomation for a few days and your eyes will be opened to the possibilities! I think I saw you cross posted this there recently.

So, basically you're looking for something like this, but one that works with Google home? So far I haven't found an ir blaster compatible with GH besides the harmony hub, so let me know if you find one :)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMYgAbFH4HWH5

I just tried the newest version of the SmartThings leak sensor. The older model was officially supported but this one appears not to be so far. That said, they pair just fine and show up as a door, so you can set up a robot using them. They’re only $20, and they detect water underneath the sensor as well as on top. I just picked one up the other day so I can’t comment on battery life yet.

Samsung GP-U999SJVLCAA Smart things Water Leak Sensor - Automate Lights & Siren For Alert - ZigBee, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F951JDP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qA26Bb56PHQ3W

I use the Bond Fan controller. It’s not HomeKit compatible yet but the company has said its coming soon. It works well with Alexa to control speed and lights. You would need to have remote control modules in each fan but they are reasonably priced ~$20 per fan.

https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Ceiling-Instantly-Amazon-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1516833372&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bond+home&psc=1

Here's an alternative suggestion - get the Hook Smart Home Hub. Its small, cheap ($50 - one hub will control loads of devices), controls 433 MHz devices, supports IFTTT and Alexa. Apparently Google Home is coming soon. Reviews on Amazon are pretty good.

So I just found this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G7OD1F8/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_of_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6PCH57G7MYJCP1PFDJ8M

There are a bunch of different brands and sizes on Amazon.

Basically I think you could put that inside the fan electrical box. I'm assuming the fan power and light power should be separated in there? (If not you're out of options). If they are you still wouldn't be able to control fan speed but it would go to whatever setting is on the pull chain. It's z-wave so you'd still need something like Smartthings hub which isnt horrible because then you can open a door of other things to control if you choose.

You are correct, it does need a hub. /u/Wintonson you can buy the bulbs in a kit with the hub or you can buy the hub standalone. I have some of these and they work pretty great for my purposes. There is an API so if you’re a coder you can control them through code, some applications such as f.lux are compatible, you can control them with Apple HomeKit/from your phone, etc.

Do note that they’re not all RGB. They also sell ones which are shades of white only. You need the White + Color “Ambiance” ones to do like the OP. The one you linked as well as the ones I linked are the right kind.

The Echo Plus (2nd Gen at least) can also work as a hub for them, so if you happen to have that anyway then you don’t need the standalone hub, but I don’t have one and can’t speak towards how well that works.

I have a Hunter fan as well. I bought a Bond device which essentially replicates the RF controller Hunter fans use. Hooked it up to my GHome and it works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr

Oh okay, have you checked out Logitech Pop yet? They are just a single gensture based HomeKit button that consist of one click, two click, long press. They communicate via Bluetooth with the bridge that plugs into the wall and connects to Wi-Fi. They are a taaad bit delayed because of the Bluetooth but still gets the job done.

But before you drop money on those I’d go the hue route to be honest because it’s so much more expandable. Plus, Run Less wire has a hue compatible 4 button switch that actually mounts in a gang box and a regular faceplate can fit over it to make it look built in rather than stuck on the wall.

You wouldn’t necessarily have to buy any hue bulbs in the beginning to just get the switches. Bridges sometimes go on sale or you can get a used one off eBay or something fairly cheap. Heck I’ve got a spare unused hub I got on sale for $15 off Facebook that someone was selling that came out of the starter pack.

Just in my setup, I have a Hue Tap that turns on 6 hue lamps, 4 Wemo minis, 2 lutron in wall dimmers, and 6 lutron plug in dimmers. I have a Hue Dimmer Switch that controls one lutron device and one Wemo device. And I’ve got 4 Logitech pop buttons that set scenes. So out of all of my switches I’d have to say the hues are my favorite because of the near zero latency, whereas the pop buttons have maybe a second or 2 before the commands are executed.

Logitech Pop Starter -$59.99

Vs
Hue Bridge- $46.40 plus Hue Dimmer Switch -$21.80 or Hue Tap- $49.37


Oh and with hue, you can even use their indoor and outdoor motion sensors to integrate with HomeKit.

oohh okay, so you buy six strips, and six controllers?
https://www.amazon.com/Nexlux-Wireless-Controlled-Waterproof-Assistant/dp/B07116SX41/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd&th=1

the wireless thing is enough to provide power to the LED? it doesn't need a power controller?

sorry again to keep bugging you about this, it's completely new for me :) thanks for your patience

I don't have any experience with them, but the Broadlink hubs can pair with Alexa. I was considering one before I found a good deal on a Harmony.

I'd recommend getting the GE Z Wave Plus switch. I use these at home and love them.

If you need a hub to go with it I'd look at Wink 2!

If you bought an adjustable bed I guess you could try rigging this up to your remote and have it go off at certain times. This would a super janky solution though :P

https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-Wireless-Automation-Platinum/dp/B01FQN2T2W

For my apartment, I you utilize two solutions to almost solve this problem. Neither one is perfect but for controlling rooms with only hue bulbs I use the hue dimmer switch. Those work nicely because the plate they come with is about the right size to replace a regular switch, but they only control Hue bulbs. For other rooms that have other lighting solutions, I have attached some Aeon Minimotes to the wall. In those rooms, I don't have light switches that need to be in any position, but you could always rewire them to bypass the switches and build some custom mounting solutions for the,

I have the Vera Lite. I can't comment on how much better/faster the newer models are, but I've been happy with the lite. I have over 36 lights, several sensors, garage doors, fans, iPhone locators...

I even have mine integrated with Amazon Echo. There hasn't been anything that I wished it would do, that ST or another controller does.

http://smile.amazon.com/Mi-Casa-Verde-VeraLite-Controller/dp/B007005364/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458225521&sr=8-1&keywords=vera+lite

I didn't research it to much, but I have seen controllers that install behind the normal switch that support more than one input. So perhaps you can use some combination to control parts of you switch? Enerwave Z-Wave Plus Switch Module ZWN-RSM2 Converting 2 Current Switches Smart, NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qzMAybJP795M6

>The important question to ask is what kind of 3-phase (they aren’t all alike), and what voltage is our lighting? (A possible answer not compatible with your switch is 277v).

Yeah I mean if he has 3 phase with a neutral they are most likely 277vac. Seems like the z-wave relay/contactor method is the best bet at like ~$40. Can be installed in the ceiling at the fixture or in the switch box - See Here . You can get straight up switches for 277vac but they are price $65 - See Here

I actually use VBScript at my job, so that's a plus in my book. I DO wish Homeseer was just linux based, so I didn't have to burn a Windows VM, but you can't win 'em all.

Here's a question for you, I've got a remote, and I'm trying to make the buttons do things...

Here's some snaps.

Now, I've sort of got it working by using events, but it's not exactly the most reliable, or speediest (even with three devices in the network right now, all within a meter of each other.) Is there some better spot for If/Then logic? Like "Motion sensor says there's motion, run this event"?

>Is there a way to make the device to default "on" when plugged in?

In general, this is going to need physical tinkering, like bypassing the on/off with wires. You need a certain level of electrical knowledge to do this safely, and will void warranties and so on in the process. It's usually simpler to buy a different device with a different kind of switch on it, or that's already "Smart".

The night light you link to shows a remote control. There are a number of "Smart Remote Controllers" on the market (example 1, example 2). Possibly you can make use of one of them to control the item in this case.

These zwave minimotes are pretty nice. They work well with SmartThings. Also like them because they're rechargeable.

I also use a bunch of hacked dash buttons.

2 main options-

Another harmony hub and a smartthings hub. You can then import the harmony activities using the smartthings hub. I recommend this if you have more on the second tv than just the tv.

Option 2- Broadlink RM Mini3. Much cheaper if you are just turning a second tv on and off. They also have an Alexa skill

Those are the smart sensors, They control the 3 exhaust fans per temp readings. They also act as motion sensors and turn the lights on in the room when I walk in. The white boxes on the right wall are 240v smart switches that control power on/off from my phone manually or triggered by scene i.e. temp to high, or ping failure reboot rig. Energy monitor installed inside breaker box also smart home (Z-Wave). All is controlled by a Vera smart home controller. Links below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151Z8ZQY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MBIRF5W?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XD8WZX6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BX9P89Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519912082&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vera+plus+controller&dpPl=1&dpID=31jWnlwJITL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZU69DU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

So those strips just need 12V DC to work. If you feed them 6V DC they will be half brightness. The way that those power supplies work is that they can vary the voltage for each of the 3 channels. Say you want yellow. You feed 12v to the blue and green channels and leave the red channel off.

If you just want a set color you could get a 12v power supply and wire the channels you wanted to it. Changing colors or colors below 12v becomes more of an issue though. Your options then looks like either buying one of these and a 12v supply (Only works with alexa so dunno if it fits your use case) or going with a phone controllable ir blaster like this or this (I think the first only works with alexa and the later works with google and alexa.)


Not sure on your electronics skill level but hopefully this can help.

Pretty sure you can use this. Much like the one you linked from Home Depot, it can be installed in the fan canopy. The wall switch will still work to turn the whole thing on and off, but when on, you can control the can and light separately- or create a virtual switch to turn them on/off simultaneously

The Broadlink RM Mini 3 is down to $15, great for automating anything that needs an IR signal like an air conditioner.

https://smile.amazon.com/Broadlink-RM-Mini3-Universal-Controller-Compatible/dp/B01FK2SDOC

You'd be fine if you used a relay such as this one. It has a transistor to protect from back voltage to the Pi and is really easy to use. I've set one up in the past to control a lamp with my cell phone.

Drill a hole in your desk under your keyboard and route your mouse and keyboard wire under your desk

Ditch the Cheap led remote and get one of these ,way more colors, adjustable brightness, timers for turning on and off, google home and Amazon Alexa compatible

Maybe a slightly larger monitor or a multi monitor setup

Switch the LED color to something more neutral or form some sort of color scheme

Get a lamp with a good LED bulb

I use a VeraLite home automation system and a smart energy switch for each rig. I wouldn't say it's cheap, but it's reasonably priced, and it works extremely well. You can also use it for other things, like controlling your AC or a camera.

There is a web interface and several compatible android/ios apps (the z-wave home automation protocol is widely used). It was trivial to setup.

The 2gig CT100 is what you're looking for. It isn't a standalone product like the Nest, but it works great with my Vera based home automation system.

nope, just like the hue hub. or the smartthings hub. they need to release a physical central command center that hooks up directly to your router/ethernet port.

i also run sonos speakers in my home, and by plugging in one speaker to a router, that speaker turns into the hub and sets up a sonosnet mesh network that only talks to other sonos products. even with this, sonos still sells range extenders.

lifx can't do the same as it makes no sense to plug a bulb into your router, but they can release a dedicated hub like philips or Ikea.

From what I can tell, you would need to add both a fan RF Control Kit and some thing like Bond Ceiling Fan Controller, which is Alexa compatible.

The RF Control kit turns your old dumb fan into a fan controllable by a remote.

The Bond clones the RF signal from the remote and will work with Alexa so you can control it with voice.

Switchbot is directly supported in HA, probably does what you want, and is available on Amazon. I have one attached to a coffee maker that requires a push button to start.

https://www.amazon.com/SwitchBot-switch-button-controlled-compatible/dp/B07B7NXV4R/

And they're on sale today.

It uses Bluetooth to communicate. Switchbot also offers a hub, but I'm not sure how well that works with HA.

You could use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME

I think Aeotec makes a dual switch one as well.

Otherwise you could just remove the current gang box and put in a larger one to accommodate 2 smart switches.

Smart things starter kit is half off on amazon right now.

You’ll get a hub, two open/close sensors, motion sensor, and smart plug.

Starter Kit $129.99

You would be correct about the Elite version; it's the remote control that's the focus and it comes with a touchscreen at the top.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Elite-Remote-Control/dp/B014PDFP9S

(We utilize affiliate links on our site, however this is the regular link and not an affiliate one)

As for the Companion, that one comes with a remote that has a few extra buttons on it to control home automation scenes quickly.

The version that Best Buy has on sale today just comes with a very simplistic remote without the home automation scene buttons.

TL;DR Wink Hub 2, Cheap Z-Wave Lock, Ring. Alexa with screen for added functionality. Check links below.

I recommend a wink hub 2 and a cheap $150 z-wave doorlock with a ring. As a bonus, if you don't already have one you can get a Alexa show (what I have) or spot to view the video feed from the doorbell and lock the door (unlocking functionality is not available so people cant tell through the door). Links Below.

Here's stuff I use:

Lock:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F1F1PY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PMIheKkvD1wxT

Hub:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4lTYAbNCH8TAT

Doorbell:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2ZDXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VkTYAb2ZMKX7Y

Echo Spot:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SQYXTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BoTYAbF56H4XE

Echo Show:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J24C0TI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gpTYAbRS910HE

If the use case is to be able to buy yourself in, geofence is not accurate enough to trigger that.

Sounds like you'll need to wire something into the door buzzer in your apartment. Like this thing.

Enerwave ZWN-RSM1-PLUS Z-Wave Relay, Z-Wave Plus Micro Switch, Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights and Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ugPQCbSETGY9R

How exactly? Could not say.... It'll depend on the way the buzzer works.

Keep in mind that this will mean if your internet or power goes down, you are stuck outside.

You can also check out BOND. It does IR and RF. There's no HA integration yet, but I'm writing a component now. I've reverse engineered their API: https://github.com/danmandle/bond and will be publishing the HA component in a few weeks.

Z-Wave

You'll need something like a Wink Hub to bridge Z-Wave back to WiFi. It comes with its own app. You can link it back to Amazon Alexa as well. If you want to do it directly from the RPi then you'll need to read up on the Z-Wave specs and use a Z-Wave module.

Have you tried a button pusher like these? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B4D9KVX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_RsBADbGNZCGKD

Obviously not tied to the Hue ecosystem, but could be useful

You could try a Switch Bot

Or a better option, but more expensive, would be to use a Harmony Hub for IR control.

I actually use Yale locks(https://amzn.com/B00HS1O77G). If you use the one with a key(https://amzn.com/B005NLKRAO), They are re-keyable to match either Schlage or Kwikset locks to match the rest of the house. Also, you can add either Z-Wave or ZigBee, also to better fit the rest of your house. The Geo-fencing is a feature that comes with the Vera Plus and its app.(https://amzn.com/B01BX9P89Y)

You probably want to ask over at r/raspberry_pi. I have completed projects with power switching and would probably recommend using a relay. You can still use python to turn the relay off and on... And it's kinda the whole point of using a pi for this type of project. Here is an [example project] (https://elementztechblog.wordpress.com/2014/09/09/controlling-relay-boards-using-raspberrypi/) (not mine)...

Alternatively, you could use a pump like this combined with a motor controler you would get much more precision over the flow.

Yeah just discovered these too:

https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-Wireless-Automation-Platinum/dp/B01FQN2T2W

Which negates my third question. Kind of. Apparently they don't work well.

Enerwave makes and handy dual relay microcontroller. Its about the size of a quarter and has relays to control both the fan and the light. Plenty of room in the canopy. You don't get dimming or fan speed control, but it works to control the fan and light indepently.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=twister_B01CPO2D3K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It does need a device type handler that's available from the smartthings community in order to utilize both relays.

Samsung GP-U999SJVLCAA Smart Things Water Leak Sensor - Automate Lights & Siren For Alert - ZigBee | Accessory to Smart Things Hub White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F951JDP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gb9FDbSETZA79

If you use the switches I mentioned in my other comment then you can use any Z-Wave remote to control the fan. The Aeotec Minimote is a popular choice. Just keep in mind that those switches aren't compatible with the manufacturer's RF module, so you'll need to remove that from the fan's canopy.

There's the HUB, with the elite remote. Works great and can be controlled from your phone. But I believe it's still only controls IR device with a little bit of Bluetooth thrown in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014PDFP9S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a Wink Hub as my smart controller, then am getting some of these to convert my light switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vDODybFPS73D2

There are also 2 switch versions that would control 2 lights, but basically they act like a 2nd switch for the light but it's hidden in the wall box so both the hub or switch can control the light.

https://www.amazon.com/Oak-Leaf-Waterproof-Decoration-Multi-colors/dp/B01E3JWOEI

Led Strip.

https://www.amazon.com/Nexlux-Wireless-Controller-Working-Android/dp/B07116SX41

Original receiver sucks, I got this which allows for more features (like syncing to music) and can be controlled with my phone.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JOVUO0?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t1

Original backing tape wasn’t the strongest, so I used that to stick it on.

I just got one of these, works great https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr

Yep, that's exactly what I was thinking. This mechanical switch would probably work. Duct tape it together with the key fob and you're good to go.

https://www.amazon.com/SwitchBot-switch-button-controlled-compatible/dp/B07B7NXV4R/

I bought the hook home hub for $50 and it works amazing with google home and these $5 etekcity outlets!

https://www.amazon.com/Hook-remote-control-outlets-Amazon/dp/B01ITSEU3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484328408&sr=8-1&keywords=hook+home+automation

It might be cheaper to get a remote controlled fan, then use the Bond system of smart control:

https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Automation-Ceiling-through-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH

Look at the Broadlink RM on Amazon. It'll do most IR remote controls for fans, blinds or lights.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FK2SDOC

Here's a review: https://stephenradford.me/homekit-ir-blaster-controlling-my-tv-with-homekit/

I bought one two weeks ago and hope to set it up this week. (Been swamped with work) Be aware it does require installing Homebridge so you'll need either a Mac that's always on or a Raspberry PI to get it to work with HomeKit/Siri.

If you don't want to mess with Homebridge then a Homekit compatible IR controller for blinds and fans is Bond. I know next to nothing about it:

https://bondhome.io

this seems like a less expensive option.... but it appears one would need the smart things hub... anyone use that? https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-GP-U999SJVLCAA-Smart-things-Sensor/dp/B07F951JDP/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=zigbee+water+sensor&qid=1568313738&sr=8-3

Here’s a direct link: Philips Hue Smart Hub (Works with Alexa Apple HomeKit and Google Assistant) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016H0QZ7I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DOsJBbCJ6CV7K

Looks like an okay price based on camelcamelcamel. Just keep in mind it is just the hub, no bulbs.

You have a few options, you can use traditional z-wave devices and then pair them to a remote like the Aeon Labs minimote and operate them that way (no hub required). I also discovered that GE has a bluetooth switch that you can program and operate remotely with your phone but looks like you don't want to use a phone.

Edit: as /u/gurase mentioned Lutron has a system that will work too.

I'd suggest:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2/

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/

and if you get a hub later, you can still use these devices so that is a plus.

This is the relay that triggers the on/off button, but any 5V relay works, it doesn't have to be high voltage. I don't know about the other one, I just found it laying around. Here's a picture of it more in focus. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, if it's rated to handle household current it's plenty good.

I use this.

Aeon Labs DSA03202 v1 - Z-Wave Minimote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KU7ERAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AIuBybXTQB3DT

Works well with smart things.

So for me, all I really care about is turning it on. I don't personally adjust the temp. But if you wanted to lower it, you'd just need the code for lowering, and code for raising, and then you could set those up on a timer so it decreases the temp (or increases it as you sleep) X number of degrees, then it raises it back up before shutting off.

Unfortunately, this seems to be a 433 mhz remote that I posted, so it wouldn't work. Damn.

I'm considering just attaching this to a remote, expensive and crappy solution.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B7NXV4R/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=AZJMNAZLHZV6F&psc=1

​

Edit: Yes, can automate through Alexa pretty easily.

I have z-wave enabled switches paired to a Wink Hub.

I use Skylark to set my Nest to Away/Home.

Wink has robots (automation workflows) that can trigger certain actions (like turning on/off a switch) when the Nest is set to Home/Away.

If you don't want to go the z-wave/Wink Hub route, you should look into IFTTT and purchase smart switches that will work with IFTTT without a hub/gateway.

My fireplace (like most gas fireplaces in the US) just needs a circuit to close to turn on. I had a wall switch doing this, I replaced that with a HomeKit outlet, a 5v DC wall wort, and a $6 relay. All that stuff is under the fireplace. I didn’t even know what a relay was when I started, but this was much easier than I thought it would be.

The relay: Tolako 5v Relay Module for Arduino ARM PIC AVR MCU 5V Indicator Light LED 1 Channel Relay Module Works with Official Arduino Boards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OAMRCb29M6G8J

Well, I have 4 remote controlled fans in my house and wanted the ability to control them with Google Assistant. I bought a Bond , It was a little funky to setup using my Android phone but works flawlessly for me and my family!

I use this thing to do that.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC?aaxitk=DXYaNxrtGmCVdvWwqzcjqQ&pd_rd_i=B01FK2SDOC&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3ff6092e-8451-438b-8278-7e94064b4d42&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_i=ir+controller&hsa_cr_id=5850900170001&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=BroadLink%20IR%20Control%20Hub%20Works%20with%20Amazon%20Alexa%2C%20RM%20Mini3%20Smart%20Home%20Wi-Fi%20Enabled%20Infrared%20Universal%20Remote%20Control%2C%20One%20for%20All%20Control%20(%20Black%20Bean%20RMMINI3-EN%20)

​

The app isn't great but once you get it dialed in its good. You program each remote function and then create a scene where it hits the xbox button, up then ok. I even have the google assistant say "starting xbox self destruct sequence" when I start it.

Zwave remote, $20. Even comes with three other buttons for free!

Never tried it myself but read about this device in this subreddit, Broadlink RM Mini3 might work. Bit cheaper too than the Harmony Hub. But I dont have any experience with it. I was planning to get one myself just to see what it can do.

Keeping in mind my only experience is with TP-Link switches, which won't work for you, here is what I think will work:

https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481508259&sr=8-1&keywords=enerwave+zwn-rsm2

With this you keep your existing switches and this module should (must) fit behind them in the box. If it won't fit, I think it can optionally be located in the ceiling fan housing.

This uses Z-wave remote control technology and thus requires a Z-wave hub such as the Samsung Smart Things hub shown in the Amazon listing linked above. Note the 3 links to guides/manuals also further down in that listing. One of those has the installation instructions including a wiring diagram.

With this system your manual switches still control the light/fan but the z-wave control also controls them and can be linked to Alexa control. Z-wave control does NOT depend on the manual switches being on.

I've found a solution to this problem actually. Had to think abit outside of the box, but this guy

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B4D9KVX/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AZJMNAZLHZV6F&psc=1

Will allow me to automate the keurig to brew a cup of coffee at a specific time by literally scheduling it to physically hit the button.

I ordered this relay module online in hopes i could use it to control the electromagnet. Would this work instead of a mosfet. I could solder the 12vDC electromagnet into the 12v adapter wires to power it and the arduino from the same source? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRUAHLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this is the magnet i ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JERC00S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you’re comfortable with a bit more of a learning curve you can purchase one of these (they’re from China and can be purchased for around $5 on aliexpress if you have patience), some standard 4 pin RGB strips and an appropriate 12v power supply.

I use the Broadlink RM mini3 remote, connected to my Google home. I even have routines long before the volcano hybrid came out. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pA0WDb9KAMZT3

Just clone the remote and you're set. If you need more help setting it up, just PM me!

Edit: forgot to mention, for location based triggers you can use IFTTT

https://www.amazon.com/Automation-Ceiling-Fireplace-through-Control/dp/B071GVGVVH/

It’s $100 but it’ll control your ceiling fans through Alexa. Mine needs to be power cycled like once a week though.

You should redesign this and remove that as you call it 'fancy switch' and get a proper home automation system. I use Vera a vera Lite

Then you can do so much more. For example I use this on my RGBW light strips.

As for the power yes as other have said you need to use the existing outlets to power a 12 volt power supply. I use these for that.

Now that you have the Zwave hub then you can start to automate many other lights in the house.

Check out r/homeautomation/ for more ideas

To do this I would need a
hue smart hub?
The specific hue lights, a motion sensor and another hub? I can't use Google home as a substitute for the second hub?

This would probably work for the IR side of things : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FK2SDOC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use it for my robot vaccuum, and have used it for an A/C unit as well. As long as you have the old remote, they work well. I'm using it with OpenHab using the exec binding to call the "commands".

Oh nice! Check this out. Might be the phone control we're looking for...

Will this affect my Logitech Harmony Elite Remote Control, and Hub? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014PDFP9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How about a smart device that manually presses a button?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B4D9KVX/ref=sspa_mb_hqp_detail_mobile_aax_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Others may exist.

The other thing you should consider is this: https://www.amazon.com/Broadlink-RM-Mini3-Universal-Controller-Compatible/dp/B01FK2SDOC if you configure all your IR devices as "Tvs" they then move over to alexa as a device so you can use through them into your routines :)

Just got back from a long weekend and noticed the same. Google says it can't reach hook smart home. When I try to login from the above link, it just reloads the login page. I think they've ended support without telling anyone.

Their Amazon reviews seem to reflect the same. https://www.amazon.com/Hook-Control-Outlets-Compatible-Generation/dp/B01ITSEU3C

There really isn't much in the form of smart switches for fans.

There is something from Lutron like this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6WCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1543194776&sr=8-20&keywords=ceiling+fan+smart+switch

I don't know anything about lutron or what infrastructure it requires. It does say it's compatible with Alexa.

if you have a remote for the fan you might look at bond https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Automation-Ceiling-Fireplace-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1543194776&sr=8-14&keywords=ceiling+fan+smart+switch

which mimics your remote control, but has the disadvantage of being uni directional, or stateless.

There is also an Insteon solution, but you would need at least a hub for that and be decently handy with electrical (as you would with the Lutron to be fair).

I'm confused by your claim that Hue is giving incorrect product information.

I think you're suggesting that you can use smart switches and dimmers as wall controllers, and bypass the switch to connect the Hue circuit to line voltage. I don't think that's what the OP asked - he's just getting started, and he wondered about using Hue with existing switches. And he'd have to add the Philips Hue Ethernet Bridge for another $48 to make this setup work, at least with SmartThings - here's more information on that...

$10 for one of these: https://www.amazon.com/BroadLink-Universal-Remote-Control-RMMINI3-EN/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=pd_lpo_23_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7G9JMCF4KAGF4110Q371

and there is a $5 tasker plugin. I use it to automatically turn off the tv when sleep as an android activates, and mute it when a call is in progress

SwitchBot has been a popular option for this particular task.

Get a Harmony Elite if you can (I know, the price). I started on the Harmony One and couldn't look back.

Or an IoT button pusher: MicroBot Push - Wireless Robotic Button Pusher for Smart Home Automation (Platinum White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQN2T2W/

SwitchBot, smart switch button with timer app controlled wifi switch DIY tools (with a Hub compatible with Alexa, Google Home, IFTTT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B7NXV4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N.lZDbNEQE2EA

I use a very lite home automation controller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007005364/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1419693424&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

With an appliance module that has a power strip connected to it. Turning the appliance module on and off using the vera plugins for tasker will turn the Chromecast and TV on by activating the power strip which they are plugged into.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013V58HU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1419693510&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Not all TVs work this way. You can test to see if your TV will work by turning the TV on and unplugging it from the wall and plugging it back in. If it turns back on, your TV can do this. If it does not turn back on without you hitting the power button on the TV, you'll have to find another solution.

Cheaper solution is a Broadlink RM and the unofficial skill.

In theory, you could use one of the dual relays to connect both the fan and the light switch. The only downside is that you won't be able to control the fan speed.

https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480261041&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+relay+z-wave

get a wink gen 1 hub

it's the cheapest hub i know of.... says it supports Wi-Fi, Bluetooth LE, Z-Wave (including plus), ZigBee, Lutron ClearConnect, Kidde

It's the one i have in my house. Though i don't use the app at all since i have it tied in with alexa and homebridge.

If you get an Echo Dot you can get any speakers that use either Bluetooth or a 3.5mm cable. So the field is wide open on that one.
For the lights you would need something like this on Amazon

You could get the rm mini or rm pro, which acts like an IR repeater and works with alexa. It will take the remotes commands and repeat them to your tv. So once it learms power on/off, volume, channels from your remote, you can ask alexa via commands to control these elements. I use it for 2 of my Samsung TVs and I’ve never had an issue with them.

broadlink rm mini 3

broadlink rm pro

Broadlink RM Mini can controller anything that uses infared like the TV or A/C.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IOLWDbWRTCWBG

You could get an Alexa compatible IR blaster for around $25: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FK2SDOC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then you can do things like have Alexa turn on your TV and change the volume/channels (which I know is the exact opposite of going outdoors)

Are you thinking something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-Wireless-Automation-Platinum/dp/B01FQN2T2W

Nope, you can keep the regular one. Like this micro switch

It looks like for a little more this would work without the need of an always on Android device: https://www.amazon.com/Hook-Smart-remote-controlled-outlets/dp/B01ITSEU3C

So you're posting in the homeautomation subreddit.

Have you considered a wifi-controlled RGBW controller like the MagicHome App enabled units? Example

If you have a hub that handles z-wave, maybe something like this would work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME

But z-wave isn't gonna reach 200ft, so you'd need a repeater or something.

Why would you not want to use cheap Etekcity RF control plugs and then use something like hook?

An alternative would be to just bypass the switch and install this behind the cowling of the fan. No fan speed/dimmer control tho.

I got a little obsessed with this idea for a while. Here's a nice execution https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-Wireless-Automation-Platinum/dp/B01FQN2T2W

Related products on Amazon actually showed me exactly what I remember seeing before also, here's the link!


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01G7OD1F8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=5TEPJ8EECGC1HTAF6VNP&pd_rd_wg=Tp7vt&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=33lB4&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=2fe93901-cf5a-11e8-b413-df24a88cfed6

My advice was only 100% relevant to the brands I mentioned and am not advising splicing wires.

In the case of the brands I mentioned, the difference between a unit with a pump and one without is literally a pump installed into the machine compartment. The cord which would otherwise be plugged into the wall from the ice maker is plugged into a socket on the pump and the pump itself has its own cord that then goes to the wall. The pump is supposed to shut off power to the ice maker if the pump fails.

Looking at the pump kit for the Scotsman it is clear that this isn't the case. I don't have any suggestions at this point, though you could try splicing if you really wanted to with one of the in-wall switches like:
https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8

https://shop.smartthings.com/#!/products/ge-in-wall-on-slash-off-switch

plus

https://shop.smartthings.com/#!/products/aeon-labs-minimote

Way cheaper if you buy them from Amazon, of course:

https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW

I use this in each of my bathrooms to turn on/off the lights and fans. Comes on instantly when they see motion.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCYD9PC

You can also buy Wink hub

http://www.amazon.com/Wink-PWHUB-WH17-Connected-Home-Hub/dp/B00PV6GAI4/

or SmartThings hub

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE/

along with a motion sensor. You can then set it up to turn on/off when you enter/leave your house and/or enter/leave a room. You can even set it up to slowly turn on the lights in your bedroom at a certain time to help wake up. There might be a delay with Wink or Smarthings of up to 5 seconds.

Edit: Just noticed you mentioned false positives with pets and motion detection. You should be able to set the motion detection levels so that your pets don't activate the motion sensor. I have a motion sensor for my alarm and it's set enough so that it sees me move, but not my dogs. I haven't had the motion sensors for my lights in the bathrooms go off from the dogs, but my dogs don't go into any of the bathrooms much.

Same here, plus I didn't want to fork over that much money just to turn a tower fan and atv on. It's a RM Mini3: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FK2SDOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497038649&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rm+mini+3&dpPl=1&dpID=418npUQ%2BGKL&ref=plSrch

The app is free but you have to buy a SmartThings hub as the start. I suggest getting a kit LIKE THIS as a starter as it includes several other things too. If you have an Echo or Google Home assistant you can also tie those in to control the thermostat by voice too.

Yep! Here's a link of something similar. Not sure if that's the exact one I got.

Using Hook https://www.amazon.com/Hook-remote-control-outlets-Amazon/dp/B01ITSEU3C and wireless outlets https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XT4T9HSA4MEJSR1XEMPH

Will probably do it with air compressor as well.

Well, I fugged up the link. here's a working one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

It's called a relay. They are cheap. here is a 5v relay. you can get them in multiples, with multiple current ratings.
Just put one inline with a wall switch. They are small enough to fit in the switch box.

If you want the switch to always invert the state, (i.e. If light is on, and switch is down) you could hook the wall switch up to gpio and have it swap the state of the relay for every switch state change. This way you won't run into a situation where you want to manually turn off the light but can't because it was remote controlled.