Reddit mentions: The best home theater audio products

We found 8,434 Reddit comments discussing the best home theater audio products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 969 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

idea-bulb Interested in what Redditors like? Check out our Shuffle feature

Shuffle: random products popular on Reddit

Top Reddit comments about Home Theater Audio:

u/polypeptide147 · 2 pointsr/mechanicalpencils

Yeah it's crazy the little details we think are super important when getting into a hobby that seem to be pretty unimportant later on. I had a Lamy Safari as my first pen, but going into it I thought that the snap cap would be a huge issue. I thought it would be super loud or annoying to put on and off or something like that. Turns out it's not even a problem now that I've got the pen lol.

That pentel looks awesome! I really like the simple and classy look of it. That's a big reason I like the Lamy 2000. It looks like a black pen at first, but is much cooler once you really look at it.

Honestly with speakers, cheap stuff is a lot more fun that expensive stuff to me. I've got a pair of Quad Z-3 towers. Yeah, of course they sound good. If they cost that much and don't, there's a big problem. The thing I like about cheaper speakers is how they all have a very fun character. Once you're spending a lot of money, every speaker out there just tries to sound exactly the same. Cheaper speakers do different stuff though. There are some speakers that focus on midrange, so vocals sound really sweet and warm. There are some that focus on the top end, so you get every little detail up top. There are some that focus on dynamics, so you get that "front row of a concert" sorta feel. I like experimenting with all that stuff. It's just fun. And you don't have to spend a ton of money and get those KEFs to really get into it.

Just for fun, I'll build a cheap setup for you, so you'll know what to get in the future if you ever feel inclined haha.

The Micca MB42X are really the "go-to" starter speaker. They're one of the cheapest that sound decent. And, honestly, they sound really good.

SMSL SA50 to power them. That's on sale for the same price as the SA36 right now. They're the same thing, just this has more power. You don't need it, but you might as well have it haha.

Some speaker cable. You need to cut it and strip it to put it into the speakers. There are quite a few tutorials out there on it. It's pretty easy.

Cable to plug it in.

Boom, just like that you've got a sweet stereo speaker setup that will blow any single speaker out of the water, and easily impress anyone! It comes to around $150 with everything.

I'm not trying to talk you into anything, but I'm basically pointing out that you don't have to spend thousands of dollars to get a respectable system.

While we're on this, another thing I like about hobbies is that anyone can be in it at any price range, and that's super cool to me. If someone only has money for a $15 Pilot fountain pen, who cares? That's awesome that they like fountain pens! They don't need to have a $200 fountain pen to be cool. Just anything is sweet. Same with speakers. You don't need a multi thousand dollar system to be "into audio" or whatever you'd call it. If you've got a setup that you like, at whatever price, that's sweet! I'm glad we both enjoy music.

u/Thatuserguy · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Tl;dr at the bottom because wow I wrote a lot here.

I don't know if there's a way to specify on an app by app basis, but you could potentially get around that by essentially telling Alexa to switch a Music Mode on or off. As a note, I personally have NOT tested this to see if it works, but I see no reason it wouldn't.

First of all, you're gonna want to buy a Harmony Hub (Or at least something like it). It's basically a big IR blaster that shoots out signals to your devices to turn them on or off, change their inputs, and other such stuff. You can create "activities" where it will turn on or off the devices you specify and change them to their correct inputs all at once. It also has direct Alexa integration so you can say something like "Alexa, turn on my TV," which could prompt Alexa to tell your Harmony Hub to run your "turn on TV" activity to turn on your TV and AV receiver, and set them to the right inputs.

This next step depends on whether or not your AV reciever has bluetooth. If it does, cool, you're already done. You just have to make sure that you make an activity in the Harmony Hub that will turn on the necessary stuff for listening to music, and make sure that when it turns on your AV reciever, it also turns on its bluetooth. Then just make sure it's paired with Alexa. This way, whenever your reciever's bluetooth is turned on, even if you have speakers plugged into the AUX port on the Dot, Alexa will still automatically connect to it and play through it instead. When it's off, Alexa's audio will play through her internal speaker or whatever speaker that's plugged into her AUX port.

If you don't have bluetooth built into your AV receiever, it gets a little more complicated. First off, you're gonna want to get this. That is a bluetooth receiver that requires power to function. Plug it's audio output into your AV receiver, and BAM, now your AV receiver has bluetooth. You're also going to want to get a smart plug to plug its power cable into. Because this bluetooth receiver needs power to function, this will allow you to turn the bluetooth on and off whenever you want from a distance, simply by powering the smart plug on or off. Pair that, and Alexa should automatically connect to it when you turn it on with the smart plug, and use her internal speakers or AUX connected speakers when it's off.

The main downside to the above is that you're still going to have to power the bluetooth on separately from you powering on your music mode with the Harmony Hub. From my understanding, you can fix this, but it requires getting a Smart Things Hub and a Smart Things Plug it will connect to. You can apparently integrate Smart Things into your Harmony Hub activities, meaning that you can power the Smart Things plug on at the same time that you activate your music mode on your Harmony Hub, or power it off when you turn that mode off. Frankly, this is a decently expensive solution to a minor annoyance of a problem, so I'll leave that up to you to decide if you want to go this extra mile.

As a note, the Smart Things integration with Harmony Hub is the thing that I'm most unsure about how it works. I believe I've seen it mentioned that it worked that way, but I cannot confirm, and honestly haven't researched into that as much as I'd like to have. If you go this route, I'd definitely recommend looking into it more for yourself. Also of note is that this was a setup I was planning for my particular situation. It may be that there's much cheaper options and alternatives to this whole mess that I don't know about or just simply overlooked because it didn't work for me. I encourage you to do more research into this on your own if you really want the best results.

And finally, if ALL of this is way too much over your head, you could just do what I decided to do that was ultimately so much cheaper and easier: Just buy a Roku Streaming Stick/Amazon Fire TV Stick and use that as your dedicated music streaming device to your AV receiver. Then just use your Dot for everything else.


Tl;dr: Buy a Logitech Harmony Hub. Have bluetooth on your AV receiver? Pair it with Alexa, and then just add turning on its bluetooth to your Harmony Hub's turn on music activity. You're done.

Don't have bluetooth on your AV receiver? Buy this and a smart plug compatible with Alexa to plug it into. Pair the bluetooth receiver with Alexa. Turn the plug and the receiver on when you want to listen to music through it. Turn them off when you don't.

Want to be able to turn that smart plug on at the same time as your music mode? Make sure you buy a Smart Things smart plug and a Smart Things hub, then integrate turning your plug on into your Harmony Hub's music mode.

Or just buy a Roku Streaming Stick/Amazon Fire TV Stick for music instead if you're a cheapass

u/Suspectsss · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice

I actually don’t see the need for surround sound. That’s more of a marketing gimmick really, as the usb 7.1 dongles suck. If you really need surround sound, get Dobly Atmos on your computer.

But I don’t think you really need either. Most games have really good audio, and some games like rainbow six siege literally say don’t use surround sound because it’s broken. You need a headset with good soundstage.

What’s soundstage? Well it’s being not only able to tell the direction of your enemy, but also the distance. That’s why I recommend open back headsets for gaming, though they do leak sound and your mic may pick that sound up. Don’t worry about it though, because what I recommend is omni directional and will basically only pick up your voice.

I recommend the Philips SHP9500/SHP9500s. They are to same thing but the s has a little bit more bass. You also might have trouble getting the 9500 because it is discontinued and not many are left. I recommend these because:

Great soundstage

Very comfortable

Has a lot of treble which is good for hearing footsteps.

Has a detachable cable Incase the wire breaks and so you can use a mic

It is extremely well priced at 80USD. It’s probably the best for gaming under 150 USD. And most importantly it will definitely fit you.

For mic, I recommend the Vmoda BoomPro. You just unplug the cable from the headphones and replace it with the BoomPro which is just a 3.5 mm cable with a mic attached. This is a super good mic.

I also highly recommend an amp both for gaming and music. The one I recommend has a switch with T D and B. T is treble boost (for gaming), d is flat, meaning it won’t change anything, and B is bass boost. Which you want if you listen to music because the 9500 has little bass.
I recommend the Syba Sonic DAC/AMP. Link at the bottom. This will definitely help sound quality as it bypasses your pc soundcard.
IMPORTANT: DON’T use the included usb cord in it as it will cause a short in your computer. You’ll need a different mini usb cable as the provide a really bad one.

To use the amp: This is a usb amp, so plug the usb into your computer and the mini USB port into the DAC/amp. The will power it so it will drain laptop battery with a laptop. Then all you do is is plug your headphone jack into the big 3.5mm headphone jack. Don’t use the one for a split cable because your headset isn’t a split cable.

That’s it! The total is about 150 bucks and will surpass anything for the price.

Don’t get a gaming headset. They just use cheap divers and RGB and day gaming to trick you, as they are way overpriced.

Z Reviews on YT (total audiophile geek) recommends this as well. I invite you to spend more time researching on his channel and other places to understand the mic and amp better. He has a best gaming gaming headsets video from a year ago. This setup is at the very front and one of the first things he talks about. Also goes very in depth on the whole subject of sound for gaming at the beginning. Here are the links:


Vmoda BoomPro Mic -

Syba Soni DAC/amp -

Remember you need a different mini usb cable. I’d throw the one it came with away because it’s garbage and possibly a fire hazard.

Please watch Z Reviews Gaming Headphone guise from a year ago. The first 25 minutes are all you really need to hear. They explain audio in-depth and talk about the headphones and this combo. Good luck!

Feel free to reach out to me as I can help with the setup or usage, but r/ZReviews is probably a better option. You’ll get help ASAP from a whole hutch of audiophiles who know their stuff.

u/trisweb · 2 pointsr/audio

Definitely search craigslist. I'm thinking more and more that what you really want is a good set of PA speakers. Carpet-lined, metal cornered, power-handling, indestructible PA speakers. In my old house (wasn't a frat, but very similar) we had Yamaha PA speakers run through a heavy-duty amplifier. The things were literally indestructible - I DJ'd on them for parties, and one (cheap old) amp blew before the speakers did.

Amazon will ship similar models to you pretty fast I think - maybe not to Canada, not sure - - The Pyle Pro boxes look pretty good, and the 8" model probably isn't very large at all. 4 of those to cover both zones would be killer, I would think, and you could easily hang them from the ceiling if you had good mounting chains (yeah, make sure they don't fall on anyone).

After that, the amp is important. You could go several ways. My first suggestion is check Craigslist for a fairly high-powered Yamaha home theater receiver. I prefer Yamahas in general - they have great amps, very good quality for the price, and they're built to last. Other name brands will do as well, just look for decent features.

After that, you can probably just set them up as A and B speakers on the receiver, and use that to switch between them. I'm guessing you basically want the main room speakers for music, and the TV room for both music and TV, so that should work.

Do you need surround? There are some great stereo receivers that have multi-zone capability built in. Ex: . Otherwise a lot of 7.1 receivers have the option to run the extra channels as a 2nd stereo zone, that may work as well.

If you find yourself needing more power than a multi-zone receiver can handle, maybe a receiver plus an extra stereo amp for the main room, such as this guy: or even this one if you want to go overkill: . In order to hook up a solution like that, ideally you want a receiver with "pre-outs," as you'll hook the stereo front pre-out to the other amp. This also has the added benefit of being able to better control volume in each location.

Overall, just look for the heaviest duty gear you can find. Obviously you're not worried too much about quality, but you probably want it to sound decent - a lot of the DJ speakers will fulfill that requirement for everyone and will be able to bump it loud forever and not die, which is great. Amps can die if you drive them too loud, PA amps are more indestructible, but receivers will give you more control and will be easier to install and use. I'd basically go with PA speakers, a nice multi-zone receiver, and good mounting kits.

Also - Monoprice for all cables and wires, always:

u/BuddTX · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

These have been getting some good user reviews lately and a nice price too, and a pretty small cabinet for a 6.5 inch woofer, 79.99 / pair: 2 Pack 6.5" Bookshelf Home Theater Speakers 100W RMS TP160S-CH DCM by MTX Audio

As for amp's I have two of these (on two different computer systems), Dayton Audio APA 150. This is a serious Class A/B design topology, but no frills, just a well built, serious, "old school" heavy amp. No remote, no DAC, no Bluetooth, but WOW, a really nice, serious, amp! Lots of good user reviews and recommendations all over the net.

A often recommended smaller digital amp S.M.S.L AD18. This one DOES have it all, remote, DAC, bluetooth, relatively small, great reviews all over the net.

If you are really on a budget, try something similar to Lepai LP-2020TI Digital Hi-Fi Audio Mini Class D Stereo Amplifier. Do some searches for tweaking this amp, a very simple way to improve this amp, is to buy a more powerful power brick. There are many versions of this type of amp, amazon, ebay, parts-express, look around.

The other two, often recommended, "great value" speakers that work well with a computer (but you will need an amp), are the Sony SSCS5 3-Way 3-Driver Bookshelf Speaker System (Pair). I have seen these on sale for well under 100/pair, from memory, in the 60's and 70's.

Another great value is the Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Andrew Jones Designed Bookshelf Loudspeakers(7-1/8” x 12-9/16” x 8-7/16” & weighs 9 lbs 2 oz). Again, search around, these do go on sale for well under 100.00.

I have both the Pioneer and the Sony, and I currently am using the Sony SSCS5 with the Dayton Audio Amp. Was temped to buy the DCM, but I have to stop buying "great value" speakers. If I ever want to upgrade my computer speakers, I should save up and buy the Ascend Audio Luna Reference Ribbon Mini-Monitor.

Good luck, have fun, and Enjoy!

u/shadyinternets · 1 pointr/headphones

yes, open back is theoretically "better" for gaming since they tend to have a wider soundstage, which should allow for more positional sound. can i prove that? nah. will closed work just as fine for 99% of scenarios? probably. honestly there is so much snake oil and buzzwords surrounding it all, you really have to just find what You like best and go with it. i have 7 or 8 pairs of headphones at the moment, tried all of them for gaming at one point or another, for the most part the biggest difference was comfort. at a certain price point things are all pretty similar sounding to me.

i like the fidelio x2s more because they are super comfy to wear for long periods of time, they sound great for anything and i often listen to music through speakers while gaming, so these allow me to hear in game sounds as well as the background music coming through them.

they are a bit more than the $150 price point though. but, you can get some nice sennheisers from massdrop for $148. these are based off of the hd580, which while i dont own they are pretty well known for being great and very comfortable. i just prefer closed for most situations, so not in the market for more opens.

i had a pair of these from massdrop for a while too, they were a little lacking bass for me though so i gave them to my dad. overall great sound and very comfy though. theyre $199

also the massdrop senheiser hd600 clones at that $199 price point. again, ive never personally owned these or listened much but they have really good reviews and are well known in the community.

another thing to consider is what is going to power the headphones? computers onboard audio, an internal soundcard or what? thats a piece of the puzzle that many overlook. newer computers have been improving the onboard sound a lot lately, but i still much prefer to upgrade.

this is what i use for gaming, at only $39 its more for convenience for me as it allows me to have the controls right there within hands reach. and i like having the separate mic input because ive never had good luck with onboard mic input.

also helps because i like to listen to music, so having 2 separate sound cards allows me to run music through 1 system and headphones/mic through another.

i also like to overkill the shit out of things when it comes to computers and audio lol so many great options out there though, i just like to try things and find what i like.

u/tecz0r · 3 pointsr/gamingpc

Dude, holy shit! First and foremost, thanks so much for typing all that out. You didn't have to, but I'm very happy you did.

I've been reading ad-nausaem about audio and how it relates specifically to gaming. Certain things like sound clarity, minimal bass, and soundstage are very very important. I've found lots of little nuggets of information which have been GOLD and sound advice, much like the ones you wrote out.

But you know whats the crazy about all of this? The dire distinction and SPLIT ideology of the differences between DAC's and soundcards within the audiophile community. One side swears by a DAC/AMP combo like the ODAC, other side maintains that a soundcard is still optimal and more than sufficient.

This has been one of the few instances where the more research I did on a topic, the deeper my hole went and the more confused I got.

I decided to put the Astro Mixamp aside for a moment. If you don't already know, the Mixamp I'm using is the 5.8 Wireless version, I was somewhat skeptical about how the audio would sound traveling both wirelessly and through optical out. So I hooked up my headphones directly to my onboard and holy shit, it sounded BETTER than my Mixamp. I wouldn't say night and day but DEFINITELY noticeable.

At this point, after watching numerous videos displaying sound stage and clarity like THIS and THIS, and seeing how great the clarity with onboard is as opposed to Mixamp, I decided to drop coin on the Sound Blaster Z. I got it for $55 because of Black Friday. I was definitely NOT disappointed. SBX makes a huge difference and as gimmicky as it may sound, Creative's "SCOUT MODE" turned out to be awesome and actually expands the sound stage and lowers bass. Incredible.

The sound card has an OPT IN/OUT so if anything, I can simply hook my Xbox or Playstation up to it via OPT IN and use the Creative soundcard properties for surround sound gaming and completely bypass the Astro Mixamp all-together. Didn't even think of it before.

I've got the Sennheiser HD598 and will be getting the AKG K7XX (that recently showed up on Massdrop) so I ended up getting a headphone DAC/Amp, THIS one specifically as it was mentioned by /u/ZeosPantara of being great. I feel a bit stupid because as you probably guessed it: I don't need a DAC, I would just like the headphone AMP'd as I will be using my soundcard as the DAC itself. I'm going to be going OPT OUT from SOUNDCARD to DAC. My question once again is: Do you think it'll retain all the surround sound qualities that it did when I was plugging my headphones directly into my sound card, things like SBX and Scout Mode if I went through SPDIF TOSLink instead of 3.5mm AUX?

If not, then I will simply either return it (or sell it) and start building an Objective 2 Amp :)))).

Seriously dude, its crazy to think where I am NOW in relation to audio fidelity and where I was a year ago. Back then, I thought the Astro Mixamp was the be all/end all of sound clarity. This is very exciting stuff!

Also, have some Gold. ;) Thanks buddy!

u/hack_tc · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

So many points to hit on, I'll try and help with that I can. I'm in the US so I'm not really sure what the pricing and availability is in your area, so my help will be somewhat limited haha.

If you are wanting to do a 2.0 system with the option to upgrade to 5.1 in the future, much of your budget will be going towards a 5.1 receiver. The suggestions mentioned in question 1 are good suggestions, but you also need to take a look at your TV and see what audio out connections are available. Some TV's, like mine for instance, only offer an optical out for audio. If this is the case for you, then the SMSL SA-60 will not work without a DAC in between. Something like the Fiio D3 would suffice. Also, chances are if you go this route, you will lose the ability to control the volume with the TV remote. Getting something like the SMSL Q5 Pro instead might be a better option. It can accept multiple audio inputs (digital and
analog, so no need for a DAC), and also has a cheap remote for controlling volume and other stuff. You can also use the Q Acoustic Speakers with these amps as well. However, either of these amps would have to be replaced in the future if you decide to upgrade to 5.1. But they would be great for a 2.1 setup.

In the US, with that budget (300 euro = $335) and a future 5.1 in mind; I would get a Pioneer VSX-530 Receiver ($200), and the Micca MB42X Speakers ($90). Then I would start saving for a subwoofer like the Bic F12 or ML Dynamo 300 (depending on the size of the room). Once I had a sub, I would then save up for better bookshelfs (3 of them...something like empteks or elacs or who knows what), and relocate the Micca MB42X's to the rear. This would be a a respectable 5.1 setup that will blow away pretty much any home theater in a box.

Anyways, hope I was of at least some help. Best of luck with your setup!

u/Armsc · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile
  1. I would look at the Orb Booster $160 or the SMSL Q5 Pro because of the optical inputs (can use with a TV later on) and the remote. I also think they have tone control and a bit more power.

  2. If you really want powered speakers go for it but I'm not the guy to help with that. I'm not a fan of powered speakers. Also if you go down that route you won't need the amp upgrade as they have their own amp.

  3. I would consider getting an AVR if you can fit in your space. Something like this Denon S510BT refurb $180 would be a good option. Not only would you be getting more power but you would also get all the benefits of an AVR. (Better speaker control, room correction, better bass management, more inputs...)

    Here is a sample system that I would look at

    AVR/Amp - I've already linked some options for you to look at.

    Sub - I would honestly keep what you have but get the sub cable that I linked above.

    Speakers - Here is where it gets fun. Lets say you spent $150-200 on an AVR/amp you'll have about $300 to play with. Lets look at some speakers in that range.

  • Boston Acoustics A26 $120 ea - I think these are on sale so think quick This is a good price for the A series

  • Boston Acoustics CS260 $160 ea - Towers that are in your budget. If you have space consider these.

  • Polk RTi A1 $205 - The RTi's were decent Polk offerings

  • Polk S20 $300 - New line they sounded decent in the store. Worth a look

  • Cambridge Aero 2 $220 or SX60 $230 - These are on sale currently

  • RBH R5Bi $225 - great sounding books at a reasonable price.

  • Affordable Accuracy monitors $210+SH - another internet direct company with really good books at a fair price.

    If you don't have stands consider getting a pair. Having speakers at the right height will really help out the sound. Also getting them further apart can really help out too. stands help you accomplish this.
u/kiwiandapple · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Sorry it took a while before I could provide this list, it took a bit longer for me since I am not very much into the bass style of headphones & music.

Ow interesting, do know which Sennheiser's exactly?
Just so I have a reference.

But we have a very high budget left over for some amazing headphones or even some great headsets (altho, there aren't a lot).
The difference between headphones & headset is that the latter got a microphone. That's all! In general this means that a headset is more focused towards "gamers". So they're often marketed and produced to give gamers "everything they need!".

  • Gaming vs "real" headphones


    So.. bass heavy headphones are often closed headphones, which means that you lose some of the sound stage, it means that the music will sound like it comes from inside your head, instead of from around you.
    I absolutely love open-back headphones for this reason. They sound a lot more natural and especially for my music styles this is ideal. Those are classical, rock & metal. The instrumentals sound fairly close to what they sound like in real life and the vocals are very natural and crisp.

  • Open vs closed-backed headphones
    ^(sorry.. I can't help it why he freaking used that.. guy in the video to show us what a concert is. He makes up for it a little bit later on.)

    Anyway, I've had a lot of looks at some contestants for great headphones for your use.



    PCPartPicker part list

    Product Name|Open/Closed|Ohms|Review|Price
    Kingston HyperX Cloud Pro Headset | Closed | 60 | Click & Click | $70.29 @ Newegg
    Kingston HyperX Cloud Headset | Closed | 60 | Same but in white |$74.99 @ Newegg
    Audio-Technica ATH-AD900x Headphones | Open | 38 | Click | $149.00 @ Amazon
    Philips X1/28 Headset | Open | 30 | Click | $194.00 @ Amazon
    Beyerdynamic DT 880 Premium 250 Ohm Headphones | Semi-open | 250 | Click |$239.00 @ Amazon
    Beyerdynamic DT 990 Headphones | Open | 250 | Click & Click |$258.99 @ Amazon
    HiFiMAN HE400S Headphones | Open | 22 | Click |$299.00 @ Amazon
    Sennheiser HD600 Headphones | Open | 300 | Click | $329.95 @ Amazon
    Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts |
    Total | ||| $1351.22
    Generated by Kiwiandapple |

    So I list the impedance (Ohms) for a good reason. The 3 that are above the 80Ohms would benefit a lot from dedicated amplifier. The motherboard I selected got some pretty good on-board audio and a solid AMP, but a dedicated one will be a much better experience.
    Now DACs (Digital to Analog Converter) & AMPs (AMPlifiers) can get expensive really quickly.

    But there are also a couple of great value options out there.


    ##DAC & AMPs

    Type|Product Name|Review|Price
    DAC & AMP combo | Schiit Fulla | Click | $79
    DAC & AMP Combo | FiiO E10K | Click | $75
    DAC & AMP Combo | SMSL SD793-II + Toslink Cable | Can't find an in-depth review. | $65 +$6


    Now my suggestion would probably go towards the Philips X1's. How-ever the DT880's aren't bad either, but they require an AMP.
    The HE400S would be a slightly cheaper option if you exclude the AMP.
    The AD900x would be my next option and then it's followed by the DT990's & HD600's.

    I only included the Kingston headsets in case you don't want to spend as much money.

    As for the AMP/DAC options, I really like the Fulla Schiit (yes that's really their name). But if you read the product page & FAQ, you'll see that they're no bullschiit at all.
    The company was founded by 2 audio veterans who wanted to create affordable, high quality audio devices. Well they did just that.
u/Mike_Rotchisari · 1 pointr/vinyl

To start off with, here are a few things to read to get you started:

  • The Vinyl Guide
  • The Cheap Setup Thread

    Basically you don't want a turntable that has anything built in like speakers or a pre-amp. These are added at the expense of quality components. You will need an amp, and possibly a pre-amp if the amp you get does not have a phono input on it already. When buying a turntable, you might as well get something nice, because the upgrade itch comes hard and fast. If you already have speakers, I would recommend just using those for now. Remember though, speakers are probably the most important part of your sound chain. I would recommend keeping an eye on craigslist for something awesome. No rush, but pounce if you happen on a deal.

    As to what amps do. Turntables output at a very low volume. The pre-amp boosts the volume and equalizes the sound to a "line-in" level. Basically, the same output that a CD player would do. After that, you need to boost the volume to a listenable level. This is what a regular amplifier does. In order of importance, a good pre-amp can work wonders. As for regular amps, they are one of the least important parts of your signal chain as long as it isn't absolute shit and can drive your speakers. They are just boosting volume.

    For maintenance, there isn't too much once you get it set up and playing. Change the stylus when needed is pretty much it. Maybe the occasional lubrication once every year or two, but I've been fine so far. The only maintenance I could really think of you having to do would possibly be to spray some Deoxit if something isn't working quite like it should, but that isn't a problem. A quick search will get you taken care of there.

    In Myrtle Beach, this Toshiba might not be too bad, especially if you could get it for $65 instead of $75.

    Back home, this Pioneer PL-4 would be a nice buy as well for around $50. It also doesn't say Technics in the listing, but here is a Technics SL-1950 for $100.

    Considering everything works as it should, I would get the Technics SL-1950. It has more documentation on the internet, and a much better chance of help from people familiar with Technics if you have any questions. See if you can haggle to around $85-$90, but it is still probably worth the $100 if they won't budge. Note that any used turntable you buy should probably have the needle replaced as well.

    As for an amp and receiver, I would recommend getting something from the 70's with a silver face by Japanese companies that you have heard the names of before. Marantz, Yamaha, JVC, Pioneer, Sansui, Kenwood, etc. all made some excellent receivers. Here are a few examples of the look I am talking about. These will last a lifetime and will rock most anything you put into them. Unfortunately, with your budget and location I didn't see anything that will fit the bill.

    Until then, I recommend you rock something like this pre-amp for $15, and this amp for $36. Start saving and then cruise craigslist, flea markets, and antique malls for one of those vintage beasts.

    Holy shit, I just realized I sent a wall of text your way. I think that will get you headed in the right direction though.

    tl;dr: This turntable, this pre-amp, and this amp, is right at $150, and possibly less depending on your negotiating skills. Use the speakers you have for now. Buy a new needle for whatever deck you get.
u/PurpleMoustache · 22 pointsr/vinyl

Here’s why:

It actually DOESN’T sound good. Normally, I’m the kind of guy who goes “if it sounds good to you, it sounds good to you”, but Victrola/Crosley/etc brand turntables have incredibly INCREDIBLY cheap components, cheap speakers (that are part of the unit, which I’ll explain why that’s bad in a second), and a bunch more stuff, crammed in an ugly form factor for like $60.

Let’s break all that down:

Cheap components - depending on the model, the Victrola is either $60, or $110, frequently on sale for much less. We must also keep in mind the laws of economics, these machines are cheaper to make then they sell for. Let’s give a conservative estimate of $70 for the 8-in-1, and $40 for the 3-in-1.

The Audio Technica AT95E NEEDLE, not even a whole turntable, not even the cartridge it goes onto, just the needle costs $35, and that’s a cheap entry level needle.

Now ask yourself: if buying a needle is nearly as much as the whole turntable costs to make... how good are those parts? Probably not that great. In fact, the needle on most cheap turntables use ceramics, rather than diamond tips. Ceramic needles not only are harsher on records, but have a poorer quality sound overall.

Then we look at the motor, we need an even speed for playing back records, and with quartz crystals or belts, that’s fairly easy, but those systems are $$$, so we have a cheapo motor that can’t handle a constant speed leading to “wow and flutter”, fluctuations in pitch and sound caused by speed differences. Now, unless you have a really really high end deck, some amounts of wow and flutter are to be expected, but the Victrola has a high amount.

Then, the tone arm. Generally speaking, the needle shouldn’t be pressing down on a record more than 3-4 grams or so, depending on the needle/cartridge you are using. Because these things are portable, they need a solution that doesn’t get goofed up when you move it, so weight from the tone arm varies BY UNIT to 10+ grams. That’s CRUSHING your record, and actively wearing out the grooves. Now, yes, records DO wear out over time, but that’s after hundreds if not thousands of plays.

And lastly, the speakers. These are contained IN THE UNIT, meaning if you are playing loud, they are shaking the whole unit, and thus the needle, and thus reducing the sound. As well as the fact that these speakers are usually quite small, and as stated before, quite cheap.

The rest of the buffalo- So that’s just the turntable! Then you’ve crammed a cassette deck, a CD player, a radio (am and fm with antenna), a aux in, and a Bluetooth receiver in there, and you have to assume the cost of those parts are as cheap as well, so you really have a $20 turntable, $10 CD player, $10 radio, $10 cassette deck, $5 aux input, $10 Bluetooth chip, and $5 for plastic assembly and now you’re realizing you’ve paid $110 for a $70 Machine that promises too much and can’t fulfill much of what it claims to do very well.

Ugly- And then this is down to personal taste: dude, that shits just ugly. Faux wood paneling, a “retro” design that never really existed, disks and buttons everywhere. I’m not saying the LP-120 looks good, but it’s leagues better in comparison.

So that’s why it’s dumped upon.

So why would you spend $110 on a $70 machine, when you could save up about $100 more, and get a DRAMATICALLY BETTER MACHINE. Yes, it's made in China like the rest of the Victrola/Crosley tables, and yes, it has a plastic body, BUT!

It has:

  • A proper Quartz Lock mechanism keeping the speed constant

  • A good, starter quality needle and cartridge (the above mentioned AT95E), with the ability to CHANGE IN THE FUTURE (you can't do that on a victrola)

  • A tone arm weight you can set yourself, making sure weight distribution on your records is at needle manufacture recommendations

  • MUCH higher quality audio components, leading to a crisper sound

  • USB out, so you can record your records

  • and a built in pre-amp, so all you need is a pair of cheap bookshelf speakers, and the table, and nothing else.

    Or, how about only $60 more, and you could get a U-Turn Orbit. It's belt driven, so if you wanna run a record at 45 RPM you'd have to move the belt, but still, DRAMATICALLY better than the motor driving a Victrola, and again, DRAMATICALLY better parts for audio. Sure it's missing a Phono preamp, but that's only $13.

    In short: why would you buy a $70 machine for $110 if you could save up a bit more and get something so so so much better
u/MMfuryroad · 1 pointr/hometheater

>Would this receiver work with my speakers?

It should work but it's power ratings are fudged a bit according to this review. Now your driving different speakers than he was but the overall advice given in this review is correct ( I still believe you have a receiver issue and not a power one but that's just an educated guess on my part:)

This review is for the R-S201, in order to avoid any confusion owing to the fact that all amps from this line are reviewed in the same place. PLEASE NOTE that specs on this particular model are fairly deceiving, which I hope will spare some prospective customers some trouble.

I bought this amp a while back because I was trying to create "the perfect budget HiFi" for under $250 using the famous Pioneer SB-BS22-LR speakers. These are pretty power-hungry, which is why I ran into problems with this amp. The specs according to Yamaha are "Maximum Power(8 ohms, 1 kHz, 10% THD): 100W + 100W". This might sound like adequate power, but the "100W" rating is only possible (again, according to Yamaha's own site) under the condition of allowing for 10% Total Harmonic Distortion. Typical receivers usually like to give ratings at 0.10% THD or less, which is a more accurate picture of power. But basically, the higher the THD quoted, the less "usable" power an amp has. I can tell you the R-S201 does not have 100W of power. I would say it likely has less than half of that, because it couldn't drive the Pioneer's to any reasonable volume without distorting. And by reasonable, I mean loud enough to hear when classical music is playing.

*Summing up, if your budget demands you spend no more than what this amp costs, make sure you find speakers that:

  1. Have high sensitivity (preferably over 88dB). This is essentially a measure of how loud a speaker will play at a given level of power, higher being louder. Klipsch and Polk Audio come to mind. Micca's (no matter how well reviewed) are not sensitive, so I doubt they'd be any better of a match than the Pioneers.
  2. Have an 8ohm nominal impedance rating. This is basically a measure of how easy a speaker is for the amp to drive, lower ratings being more difficult. Again, Klipsch and Polk Audio would probably be better fits.

    I don't want this review to look like a hater wrote it. I'm sure it's a perfectly good amp under the right conditions. If you have, or can find, speakers that fit these recommendations, you might have better luck with this amp than I did. But if you're set on, or already have, low sensitivity and/or low impedance speakers, you should consider a more robust amp/receiver - one that hasn't so badly inflated its specs.*
u/Z3ROGRAV1TYx · 1 pointr/vinyl

Hey, so I picked up a Phillips AF-777 turntable. It is in very nice condition, but the cartridge (Stanton 680EE) sounds very flat and undynamic. It is worn down looking (Not really the needle by just the actual cartridge). I assume it hasn't ever been replaced or maybe once. So I was thinking about replacing it. I cannot go above $100. (So under $100) I want to achieve a Hi-Fi sound. I am currently using a Cambridge Audio Azur 640a v2 and a pair of Vienna Acoustic Bach. I saw the Shure M97xE, but am open to other suggestions on the under $100. (The M97xE is $100).


Now you may be thinking, what am I using for a phono preamp? Well I had a Kenwood KR-720 I was using, but seeing I picked up the Cambridge, that replaced the Kenwood. But the CA 620a v2 does not have a phono stage. I was looking for a good Hi-Fi quality phono preamp under $100. I looked around and saw this.. ART DJPRE II. It is $38.. and it seems to cheap to be good. But who knows, that's why I am here. I was also looking around on my CL and Ebay, but there hasn't been anything that I've seen.

I want a clean, non-distorted, accurate sound, with a bit of fun and great dynamics. Dynamics are important for me! If it matters, I plan to play music from Disco to Jazz to Vocals to Acoustic to Pop to etc. I enjoy lot's of kinds of music, so I like an all around sound.


I have been trying to get help with this for a while, and have not recieved any help with purchase advice! I appreciate ANY help avaiable here! Thank you!

u/SoaDMTGguy · 2 pointsr/Metallica

Alright, here's what I've put together for you:

  1. Turntable: Rega P1 ~$450

  2. Speakers: JBL LSR308 - $500

  3. Phono Preamp: Pyle-Pro PP444 - $10.49

  4. Passive Preamp (volume control): Schiit Sys - $49

  5. RCA-to-XLR cable (to connect speakers) 10' - $9.50

    Total: $1,018.99



    Rega turntables are some of the best in the world, and their quality extends all the way down the line. I have the step-up mode, the P3, and love it. $400 is roughly the entry point for a "good" turntable, which I think is a solid investment given your budget.


    The JBL LSR series is very well regarded on r/audiophile. They are generally considered to be the best powered monitors on the market. Being powered means you don't have to buy a separate amplifier, saving money. If you want to save some money, you can drop down to the LSR305, which has a smaller woofer. It will not have as much bass power as the 308, but it costs $200 less for the pair (NOTE: The Amazon link is for a single speaker, not a pair)

    Phono Preamp

    You'll need one of these, because the signal coming out of the tone arm on the turntable is very low voltage. The phono preamp brings it up to a level that is powerful enough to be amplified further by the speakers. You can spend more, but you don't need more than the Pyle (I have one at home that I'd honestly mail to you, but Amazon Prime is probably cheaper than the cost of shipping for me :P)

    Passive Preamp

    This is a volume knob and a input switch. That's all. Volume knob because the speakers have the volume knob on the back, and have separate knobs per speaker. Didn't think you'd want to mess with that. Two inputs so you can hook up your turntable and your computer, or your phone, etc.

    RCA-to-XLR cable

    Because the JBL monitors are targeted at pro recording studios, they use "balanced" XLR cables instead of traditional RCA. The reasons for doing so are irrelevant, but you will need an adapter cable.

    If that's too much money

    As I said earlier, you could drop down to the JBL LSR305 (again, link is a single speaker, not a pair). That would bring the total down to $818.99. If you wanted to save money, this is where I would do it.

    Another option is to switch turntables to the U-Turn Orbit. It starts at $179, but I'd definitely add the cue lever for $40. I wouldn't spend more on other options though, not worth the money. If you go this route, treat this turntable as your starter, then replace it later.

    If you tell me your local craigslist, I can look around and see if there are any good deals, but the above is going to be pretty hard to beat.

    By all means, feel free to ask me any and all questions. I love doing this kind of research for people, so it's no skin off my back. I want to make sure you enjoy Ride the Lightning in all it's rifftastic glory :D
u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Oh god, don't start shopping for a DAC. They're a waste of money for almost everyone, but /r/audiophile talks about them like they're the most important part of the system. A DAC is the device built into your smartphone or computer's sound card that converts the digital file to an analog signal for the amplifier to boost. People who have been misled by hype or have run out of things to spend money on start shopping for external DACs.

Most devices have perfectly fine DACs. You probably won't ever hear a difference between the one built into your iPhone and a $300 standalone unit.

What you want is an amplifier with a few different inputs, which is typically a receiver. There's a host of inexpensive new stereo and 5.1 home theater receivers that will do the job, but most will be the same width as your old receiver. Another issue with modern receivers is that most of them don't have a PHONO input, which means either you need an external PHONO preamp like this one or a turntable with a built-in preamp. Good news-- that Pyle I linked is dirt-cheap, and works great.

Alternatively, you could buy a little 50-watt amp like this one and pair it with a manual A/V switch like this. You'll still need the phono preamp, of course.

The cheap and simple solution is to learn to live with a full-sized receiver and go hunting for a good-quality early 90's home-theatre receiver with 80 or more watts/channel. People don't want old Dolby Surround receivers because they don't have all of the modern A/V doohickies, however they'll have at least 4 RCA inputs and a built-in PHONO input, and provide plenty of clean power. I love my Yamaha RX-V850 for this reason.

I hope this helps!

u/_Funke_ · 1 pointr/vinyl

The positive I see here is that there are many awesome integrated amps, amps and pre-amps that are quite minimalistic in terms of aesthetics and are also very small and great space savers. I too am a minimalist but have created a set up that is aesthetically and mentally pleasing to me, and in my opinion, have not compromised sound.

One thing you could do to save space would be to get some good powered speakers and a good, small, minimalistic pre-amp, thus eliminating the need for a separate receiver. Some people may find passive speakers better, but in your situation, it could be a good compromise. You could also opt for no speakers and invest in a good headphone amp, which would also save space. The Orbit is already pretty minimalistic in design and is quite pleasing on the eyes.

I am not sure about selling what you have other than Craigslist.

Edit: Grammar

u/brianf408 · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

First step: have you read noaudiophile's reviews? He does very thorough reviews on a lot of budget speakers, and has corrections for many of the popular options. His corrections for the Infinity P163s that I'm currently using made them sound like completely different speakers.

First let's start with powered options:

The Micca PB42X would be a good option. They are basically a powered version of the MB42X so you don't need to purchase a separate amp. Also in the similar realm that get recommended here a lot would be the Swans D1010 and the Edifier R1280T.

Personally I'm a bigger fan of passive speakers, as you get a lot more options to expand your system.

Pioneer BS22 bookshelf speakers are great and have gone on sale quite a bit lately for $70-80/pair.

Dayton B652 I am currently using as my surround speakers, but people rave about them as a budget desktop option

Micca MB42X also get great reviews.

You could also go used for your speakers, but sometimes it can be hard to parse through all the junk out there if you don't know what you're looking for.

Take any of those passive options and pair them up with an inexpensive amp like this SMSL or Lepai for a good budget setup.

I would also recommend checking your local Craigslist or Facebook marketplace for a used receiver, you could pick up a very decent one for just a few bucks and have a great starting setup. This will give you a lot more powerful amp, and the ability later to easily add a subwoofer or expand to surround sound. Personally I'm using an older Sony home theater receiver at my desk, it's old enough that it doesn't have HDMI or optical inputs, someone was just giving it away so I snagged it.

u/Hipp013 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

College kid here, I'll try to help out.

It's generally recommended that you don't ever go for a HTIAB (home theater in a box) as they come with super shitty components and most often don't leave room to upgrade.

You'll get more flexibility and bang for your buck with bookshelves and a sub, but as you mentioned you only want a 2.0 for right now. If bass is really that important to you, I would actually recommend you get a pair of bookshelves now and invest in a sub later on. Towers are great but for a 2.0 setup you're going to want something smaller with better sound quality.



Bookshelves: used Polk Signature S15's

>Top listing is $165 for like new speakers; S15's run for $229/pair new.

This listing in particular says "Speakers only, nothing else is included" which is odd for them to mention because I don't think these speakers normally come with any accessories. Maybe he's talking about the manual which can easily be found online. But who needs manuals anyway?


Amp: SMSL SA-50

>Price fluctuates between $63 and $69. This listing is $63.

Puts out 50 wpc, will power pretty much any speaker you throw at it. I owned this myself and recommend it for a first setup. Just keep in mind you will have to upgrade to a surround receiver if you ever want to move past 2.1 in the future.



This puts you at $228 shipped. A bit above your absolute max of $200, but this is probably your best bet. You're also going to need to buy some speaker wire. It's only like $8.

So in total, this comes to $236 shipped. A bit above your budget, but it leaves you with some kickass bookshelves as well as the ability to add a sub in the future.

u/jaredisthegreatest · 1 pointr/vinyl

So I'm moving to college in NYC in the fall, and I've been faced with the issue of how to fit my turntable in my dorm. I didn't want to lug my whole stereo setup there as it would take too much room, but it was looking like I had to. Until just now!

I got this speaker as a graduation gift so I had a speaker to connect my phone to in the dorms. It looks (and is) tiny but the sound quality is honestly pretty great - good stereo image, clear highs, low lows, etc. If I turn it up about halfway and leave it on my bed I can feel the bass vibrating through my mattress. Naturally it isn't up to par with, say, a vintage amp paired with some great speakers and there isn't an EQ on it (or at least I haven't discovered one), but sacrifices ya know?
I connected my turntable's stereo jacks to the preamp I already had for my existing setup (found here), then ran an [adaptor cable]( is the one I use) to the aux input on the speaker. Works like a charm!

I thought this would come in handy for anyone moving to an area with little space (like a dorm) who still wants to hold on to their record collection. Happy listening!

u/murpes · 1 pointr/vinyl

Excellent choice on the BS22s! They're fantastic speakers. I bought a pair for what I expected to be a temporary, transitional set, but I enjoy them so much I now have no intention of replacing them.

That Lepei amp will get the job done. It's not really an "audiophile" amp, meaning if you're going to sit there with a frown on your face and listen to test tones and not music, you'll notice some of its limitations. But in that price range, there's little else that will drive your speakers with reasonable fidelity. It's kind of designed for casual listening, not critical listening. A lot of people that do critical listening assume everyone does, and neither has anything to do with enjoying the music. Your speakers have a more meaningful impact on the quality of sound that the amplifier does. The Pioneer speakers are a tier or two above the Lepai amp in terms of quality, but I'd rather have that than the inverse.

For around $100, there's this Parts Express amp. It's a pretty generic amp; you can find the same guts in a different case from other companies for about the same price. I have no direct experience with this amp, but I suspect it would be quite an upgrade from the Lepei. Someone else made an excellent recommendation for a Yamaha integrated amp.

Another variable being the outputs on your turntable. Most turntables put out a signal that's far too weak for even an amplifier to handle, so they need to be "pre-amped" along with some other processing. Some turntables have this built in, some don't. Likewise, some amps have this circuitry, some don't - most modern amps don't, including the Lepei and Part Express amps mentioned here. In this case you'll need a pre-amp that sits in-between your turntable and amplifier. This one is a popular budget choice, and one I can personally recommend. Some forum-searching will reveal others.

The mentioned powered speakers are another option, especially when getting more bang for your buck. Down the road it can be limiting - you can't upgrade your speakers without buying an amp, too. There's also the whole pre-amp question with these as well. Still, they're a great way to get busy listening to your records.

There's a lot to consider and it can seem overwhelming, but don't let that interfere with the fun of spinning the discs. A lot of us around here enjoy music and dicking around with equipment, and love offering our opinions on both.

u/zeagan · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Oh sorry, it's hard to not go all jargon-crazy sometimes.

So studio monitors are designed for mixing audio, as such they're designed to be very very accurate. The flat response means if you plot a line representing all the audible frequencies from bass to the highest treble the line would be flat, so no boosted bass or lowered midrange or any of those things people usually fiddle with knobs to do. Just dead accurate, which lots of people think they want until they hear it, mids and highs can get a little tiring to listen to and is sometimes considered not a "warm" sound.

B&W is Bowers and Wilkins, a very good brand and I just meant find some from the 1980's because they crop up for sale used from time to time and sound great (check craigslist for B&W, Mission, Elac, Mirage, PSB and Wharfedale). Other options that aren't used would be Cambridge Audio SX50's, Elac B6.2's, and Wharfedale Diamond 210's. (Tons of reviews of all of those out there) As for an amp, the SMSL SA50 is plenty for most people for normal listening levels.

As for a DAC, you wouldn't necessarily need one for active monitors, but you would definitely need some interesting cables like these shitty ones. One of the advantages of pro-audio gear is they use balanced audio signals which makes long runs of cable safe from electromagnetic interference/noise/hum, most people don't have runs long enough for it to matter in their house but they look cool and "pro". Also to actually have a balanced signal going through those XLR cables you need a balanced output, which is where a DAC with balanced outputs or volume controller would come in. Here's a cheap ok controller.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to talk you out of studio monitors, speakers are super super super subjective and if I encountered a set of studio monitors that really blew my skirt up I'd probably buy all the balanced cables and some huge volume knob to be able to listen to them and be happy as a clam. Just hasn't happened yet.

u/givemeyournews · 6 pointsr/headphones

My Encore mDac has been working intermittently as of late. I have the pleasure of listening to headphones for about 6 hours of my work day, so having a DAC/Amp combo at my desk is nice. However, with a 4 week old baby, my budget was super limited. I came across the Syba Sonic SD-DAC63057 and decided to give it a try. It checked all the boxes. Cheap ($37). No driver install needed (work computer, can't install anything). Enough power (100mw) to drive my IEMs and more sensitive over ears. USB only power.

Full specs can be found here

The unit features variable line outs, top mounted volume knob, optical out, coax digital out, usb in (for power and signal), mic input, 3.5mm input, 3.5mm headphone out, and 1/4" headphone out (both headphone outputs work simultaneously.

The unit has indicator lights to show what signal is being received (96, 44, or 44.1), and an indicator light of sorts that flashes with the music, that comprised of a red and blue LED. Kind of neat.

The unit also features a hardware EQ that includes a 7db (yes, 7db!) treble boost, a direct no EQ option, and a 7db bass boost. The hardware EQs are a bit much for me, and I find I leave the unit set to direct most of the time. However, there is one expectation. I have set of custom reshelled Ultimate Ears Triple.Fi 10's, and in the process, the treble took about a 6db drop. So, for that one set of CIEMs, the treble boost is just right. However, that is a pretty oddly specific scenario, and I would imagine most people won't want to use the hardware EQ.

Of note, the device is always on, as there is no power switch. The volume knob has the most minute channel imbalance as the absolute lowest setting. And, there is an uncomfortable audible crackle / pop when plugging in sensitive headphones to the 3.5mm headphone out. All be it, it doesn't seem to be enough to damage anything.

I have successfully used the Syba Sonic DAC/Amp with my Chromebook, MacBook Air, and my Windows 7 work PC. I have not tried it on a Windows 10 device, but after scouring the Amazon “reviews” it seems that it may not play nice with all Win10 installs so YMMV. As the unit is not battery powered, it won’t work with mobile devices.

When compared head to head with my Encore mDac, the Syba Sonic unit sounds a tad better. The bass is a bit fuller and the treble has just a hair more sparkle. Detail representation is on par, if not better than anything in this price range. All in all, for $37 I am super pleased with the purchase. I love the design with the volume knob on top. And the fact that the RCA outs are variable makes this a great option for those that want a budget option to use with powered monitors.

I have run the unit, as mentioned, with my CIEM reshelled TF.10's, as well as with my UM3X, Fischer Audio FA-003 wooden cup over ears, NAD VISO HP50's, AKG K7XX, and handful of other mid-range to lower IEMs. I did find that it struggled a bit to run the K7XX with any authority, but all the other headphones / IEMs I have tried have worked just fine. The only other negative is that, with the volume knob at full tilt, there is an audible hiss on most sensitive headphones (read: 32ohm and below).

I would recommend this unit for anyone with a tight budget that wants a somewhat feature rich DAC/Amp. It would also make a great external sound card thanks to the mic input.

u/JUGGERNAUT0014 · 1 pointr/Zeos

Hey Zeos! I want to thank you so much for your guide. I just started looking at making a home theater setup yesterday for the very first time and it was pretty daunting at first. After reading through your posts and several others at /r/hometheater I have it narrowed down to a couple of options and would appreciate some advice on the selections I've made. I apologize for the long post but I want to make sure I make the most informed decisions for my first home theater purchase.

I just purchased the 65" Samsung JS8500 and I have an Xbox One that will be my main bluray player for now with a focus on movies / games.

Through my research last night and going through your suggestions at the top of this thread, I've chosen the Denon AVR-S510BT.

My question is in regards to speakers. Last night I had decided on the Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers with the accompanying Center since it's my first system and I was thinking of trying out something cheaper for an intro setup which would be better than just my TV speakers.

Whenever I get into a new hobby I tend to start thinking of an intro setup and get sucked into the nice expensive parts because I believe in "buy once cry once". I'd hate to get the Micca's and then a year later want to upgrade them to something nicer anyways when I could have just spent a bit more and got something that would have lasted me longer.

edit after more reading and watching your videos I see you recommending the Elacs quite a bit, I know you mentioned they would be great for music and I loved how they sounded, is this the case with movies and games as well? My budget is pretty open if it's for the right items and I can afford the Elac 6.5"s or something in that similar price range like the HTD Level3's (loved that sound demo too) if they would really make the whole setup shine and last me for years to come.

If I do end up choosing more expensive speakers and could only purchase one or the other to start with, would you recommend a Center speaker or a Subwoofer like the BIC America F12?

Thank you so much in advance, I appreciate all the time you've taken to write up these guides and answer questions.

u/sharkamino · 1 pointr/vinyl

The Sonys are better speakers and are well worth the extra $15.

Best deal on speakers is closeout 6.5" DCM TP160 by MTX Audio $249 $85 pair. Review by u/DieselWang, Video Review and DCM TP160S vs the SVS Ultra Bookshelf. Or the tower version DCM TP260 2-Way by MTX Audio $399 $149 pair and you don't need to build or spend $65+ on speaker stands.

Consider looking for a used stereo or AV recevier for under $100. If it does not have a phono input add a $15 Pyle phono preamp that may be just as good as the one built into the Sony. Next step up is the ART DJ Pre II $67.

Or use a mini amp FX-Audio FX252 $33 with the $15 Pyle phono preamp and optionally upgrade both later. Or the SMSL A2 $69 has 2 inputs and a sub out.

A much better stereo receiver than the Sony and a great deal on sale is the Cambridge Audio Topaz SR10 $399 $199 which has a great built in phono preamp with a $100+ value. The one in the Sony may only be a $15 value.

Or if also using the speakers with a TV, DENON AVR-S640H 5.2-Ch x 75 Watts A/V $379.99 $229.99 has a phono input and HDMI switching as well as Audyssey MultEQ room correction EQ speaker setup, HEOs WiFi networking and streaming, smartphone app remote and Amazon Alexa voice control.

If the receiver or amp does not have Bluetooth, add better WiFi streaming with a Dayton WBA31 $43 that also has Airplay and Bluetooth. Or Echo Dot or Echo Input have WiFi streaming with easy voice control and are also Bluetooth receivers.

Speaker Placement: Stereo Music Listening and How to position your speakers for great sound.

Speaker wire: Pure Copper Oxygen Free Speaker Wire then 4 Ways to Strip Wire. Optionally add banana plugs. Already with banana plugs AmazonBasics buy 2 for a pair 12ft each.

Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systemsZeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videosr/audiophile Guide to Home AudioIntroduction to Audio ComponentsWhat is a Phono Preamp? | Audio AdviceHow to Connect a Turntable to a Receiverr/HTBuyingGuides FAQ

Also check out r/BudgetAudiophile.

u/Nixxuz · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Not really a "bad", because there some powered towers out there, but they tend to be of either really crappy quality, or REALLY expensive.

So, for $100 you are somewhat limited in your choices. You'll probably end up with something in a D or T class amp. Don't worry, those classes don't mean much outside of technical stuff. Nice thing is that both are digital amps, which are smaller and lighter.

Cheapest, and as far as I am concerned, best bang for the buck, is the Nobsound Mini BT. I like them because I have owned a couple. Chinese made itty bitty amps that deliver enough wattage to get pretty loud without breaking the bank at all.

They come with an internal DAC so you can connect straight to USB if using a computer. Also come with a 3.5 headphone jack to 3.5, or 3.5 to RCA so you can hook up a CD/BR player, a turntable if it's got it's own internal preamp, or most anything else like an Amazon Echo or Google Home. It has no remote, so if that's what you need you can get an add-on device.

Or for nearly the same price you can get an all in one unit.

Another idea, if you have the room is a stereo receiver. Gives you more input and is pretty robust with a remote and all. This unit is higher quality than the mini-type amps and is about the cheapest full sized receiver you can get. I'd probably recommend this unless you are sure you want to go for surround sound in the future.

It doesn't have BT, but you can easily add a dongle for that in the future for like $15. This would also work just fine;

After that all you need is some speaker wire and you're ready to rock...or game, or whatever.

u/blackjakals · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you want to go the passive route, a decent setup would probably be around $150-200. If you want something with a tuner, a receiver would be a good choice over an amp.

Right now, you can get this Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver on Amazon or Best Buy for $119 which is an excellent deal. Usually this receiver costs $149 or more and Yamaha makes some of the best budget stereo receivers. Sometimes you can find this Insignia Stereo Receiver for about $99, but right now it costs higher than the Yamaha and is not worth it. Those are probably your best deals on receivers right now that won't break the bank. Most other receivers will cost you about $150 to start.

You can find a lot of good speakers under $150 and a few under $100. What you need to do is sign up for Fry's Electronics newsletter. Just this last week they sent a coupon code in my email to get the Pioneer SP-BS22-LR speakers for $58! Super good deal. Normally cost just over $100. They are sold out now, but this deal pops up quite often and they are well worth that price.

Here are more great speakers around $100 or less:

Micca MB42X speakers - $90.

Polk T15 - $100

Dayton Audio B652 - $30

Dayton Audio B652-AIR - $44

JBL Arena B15 - $79

u/rootbeerfetish · 1 pointr/ASUS

I'm not an expert on mobo amplification I do know they have one (otherwise you wouldn't be able to hear sound at all) but generally they're tuned for 80ish-ohm or less headphones. Some headphones can benifit from amplifation even if they have low impedance. Not sure why it wouldn't be showing up in the front port but if you genually need a good headphone amp then buying an external DAC/amp combo is the best thing you can do. The SMSL 793 is a great choice. Cleaned up my audio quite a bit, gave me volume control next to my keybaord and even though my headphones didnt really "need" amplification they certainly gave them an extra umph and bite. Z reviews did a YouTube video about it if you're interested in that. What kind of headphones do you have?

Edit - One last note. If you ARE interested it seems like your mobo has an optical out. That makes the SD793II perfect as it pretty much only accepts optical audio as an in.

u/SluttyRonBurgundy · 1 pointr/vinyl

Great question! So many options.

I think I would see if I could score an SL-1200, a pair of Yamaha NS-1000s or Pioneer HPM-100s, and spend whatever's left on the best receiver I could find.

TT--Pro-Ject Debut Carbon DC Esprit. Or, perhaps better yet (if you're willing to go over budget), a base Debut Carbon DC and upgrade the needle to 2M Blue--no cartridge swap required!

Speakers--SVS Prime Towers from the SVS outlet. These consistently appear on "best speakers under $x" lists and they sound phenomenal for the price. They can be used without a subwoofer, and the trial period + warranty that SVS offers makes it risk-free to audition them in the room where you'll actually be using them.

Receiver--Assuming you've gone the Esprit route, you'd have $50 to play with on a $1,500 budget, which means you're still going to have to go used on the amp. I'd hit up as many Goodwills as often as possible in search of a good receiver. I've found several really solid units for $20-80 at Goodwill and other thrift shops. If you get the base Debut Carbon DC but decide to upgrade to Blue down the road, for about $200 I like the Yamaha RX-V line. Affordable, decent power, sounds nice, digital friendly, and would allow you to expand your setup to home theater at some point if you wish. Of course, that will necessitate the use of a phono pre-amp, but the ART DJpre II can be had for under $50 and it's great.

u/fgoncalves97 · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

Aune's had some problems with the community lately and their prices don't fluctuate often. You can grab the O2 + ODAC combo w/ jacks on massdrop for around 200$ when they drop. I wouldn't go for the JDSlabs ones, kind of expensive. A Simple schiit stack smear is always nice but don't get the Uber versions unless you really need em. I'd only need one usb input for source and you can always split the dac out. The element is lovely but you're paying a high premium for user experience. I've heard really really great things about the Micca OriGen. It's a lovely 100$ usb powered dac/amp. In fact, it has similar user experience to the element. Though I've heard it has some funny issues with the pre-outs, I'd definitely recommend this one (based on what I've heard/read). Lots of great options under 250$. Here's a humble dac/amp from SMSL. Any specific features you require?

Also, check out the T50RP MkIII. You won't regret it.

edit: words + adding in the SD793/ mur wurds

u/the_blue_wizard · 1 pointr/audio

Waste your money if you want, but I gave you my answer.

Though FUSSYNYANKO has the alternate advice - DAC, Stereo Amp, Speakers - that's what I have on my computer. Onkyo TX-8255 (50w/ch Receiver), Q Acoustic 3020 Speakers. For outputs from the Computer, I just use the built in RealTek Sound Card. A USB DAC would be better, but the direct Analog Outs of the Sound Card are good enough for what I need.

Note: In a Stereo System, we can come up with components costing considerably less than my system which is about $450 to $500. If a Separate Stereo System is the way you want to go, we can make some suggestion in that area that are closer to your budget.

Here is one very good example of a very compact, powerful, and versatile Computer Amp -

SMSL AD18 - $145 -

Here is a Review of the AD18 Amp highlighting all the features -

Possible speaker to combine with that Amp -

The Above Yamaha Speakers are 8". Make sure you have room for them. Z Reviews also has a very positive review on the Yamaha NS-6490 -

More speakers -

Canton is an extremely popular brand in Europe. They are also available in Black for $10 more.

Now if you want a 2.1 speaker system or a 5.1 speaker system ... cool... your money ... your life. But those all encompass very tiny main speakers, and an overblown underpowered droning Subwoofer. I would rather it sounded good than tinny and overly bassy.

Still, that's not my choice to make. Logitech sells millions of Computer Speaker systems of all types, and for what they are, and what they cost, they are fine. Not my choice ...but fine.

u/picmandan · 8 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Depends on the type of setup you're looking for, the most common of which are 2.0, 2.1, or 5.1 (or more).

For simple stereo music listening, you'd need a 2 channel amplifier, (such as a the small and very inexpensive but decentish Lepai, or better the SMSL SA-50, or a full size receiver such as this Pioneer) and a way to play and input your music.

For that you could use your computer and an Aux cable, or you could use your phone and an inexpensive bluetooth receiver. This would be a 2.0 system (2 main speakers only, no sub).

You may wish to add a subwoofer for better reproduction of low frequencies. As the subs usually come with their own amplification, but accept high level (already amplified) inputs, you can just wire them together from the amplifier. This would be a 2.1 system.

Plus you need speaker wires and maybe wires for input (like Aux) depending on your setup.

For Home Theater plus music, you'd want a Home Theater receiver such as this Denon, that plays at least 5.1 channels (the .1 is for the subwoofer. This will give you a setup to power Left and Right front speakers, a Center Channel, plus 2 surround speakers. You still need a way to play your source, such as a CD player.

As u/smackdaddies pointed out, you could get four of these Pioneer speakers, plus the related center channel and a sub, plus the receiver, for under $500. It would be a pretty great sounding (budget) 5.1 system.

Once you decide on the type of setup you're interested, we can help you choose items here on r/BudgetAudiophile.

u/chickadeeshits · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I have just purchased my first turntable, a Technics SL-B2, from eBay, and it will be here in ten days. So now I have ten days to put together a preamp +amp +speaker set-up-thing that really freaks me out. Which leads me to my questions for y'all...

Option 1

Right now I have these things in my amazon cart. I'm really just trying to get my feet wet with this stuff (without breaking the bank), but I don't know if these things go together/would work as a whole. My main worry is the fact that I have no idea how to do a ground wire... I'm relatively confident that I could connect the TT to the preamp, and the preamp to the amp, but from there I'm lost (any advice would be welcome).

Option 2

This is a craigslist entry somewhat-local to me (about 1.5 hours away), that came up when I typed in "phono receiver". Is this a preamp, amp, and speaker all in one? Is it too good to be true? How would this then connect to the TT?


Having already purchased the record player, I'm hoping to keep the rest of the set-up below $120, and preferably closer to $80. I understand these are very slim margins, but my hope is to start with the bargain-basics, and to then (hopefully) upgrade piece-by-piece with the coming-Christmases and Birthdays.

Also, given that I do plan to upgrade my set-up in pieces, I'm leaning towards Option 1 because it seems it would be easier to swap out parts over time...


I'm just hoping for general advice, well wishes, whatever y'all can give me. I've done a lot of research but without all the parts in my hands I just can't visualize putting it all together, and could use y'all's experience. Really, I'm just itching to finally play some records!

Please help! And thanks in advance:)

u/Kamukix · 1 pointr/simracing

I have multiple Aura bass shakers (one per corner), I have a TON of the small Dayton pucks (probably 12+ of them in the house lol, not all hooked up). I have been using the small SMSL amps to power everything with very good success. I will eventually change up and get big Clark transducers, but the money can be spent for now on other stuff that would give me a bigger benefit (like motion).

SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter (Black)

Those are the current things on my rig, I also have these which are the 'knockoff' brand of the Aura (Dayton bought the company of I recall correctly, so it's not a true knockoff, but you know what I mean). They're not quite as good as the Aura but still good and much more powerful than just the small pucks. They are also a little cheaper than the original Aura if you need to save a few bucks.


My rig is built of 80/20 profile tubing, and the shakers are either mounted to a thin (roughly 5 to 10mm thick depending on which transducer it is) piece of wood that's directly attached to the rig.

If you are using something like a Playseat or GT Omega rig make sure you think about how solid everything will need to be mounted and the vibrations will be stronger since the material isn't as solid or sturdy.

It's fine to use those, just pay attention to how you mount stuff to avoid buzzing or it coming loose lol.

u/AM_key_bumps · 2 pointsr/vinyl

OK. Here we go.

At your price point and experience level we should stick with solid state. tubes are more expensive and potentially temperamental. your speakers are solid, vintage big box bangers. Your room may not be too huge, but you need to push a decent amount of air to get those speakers to sound good. So you need at least 50 watts per channel.

Vintage: when in doubt, go pioneer. they sound great, look awesome and are built like tanks. I would recommend either an SX-750 or SX-780. Anything lower on the food chain might not be able to get your speakers going, and anything higher is going to be out of your price range. The 780 is a slightly later model and might cost a little less, but with no real difference in performance (IMHO). Unfortunately, getting a specific model means looking on eBay. Some folks have gotten burned buying receivers on eBay, I myself have been very lucky. Just make sure the unit has been recently serviced, and that the seller has a positive feedback rating AND SELLS A LOT OF ELECTRONICS.

If you do not want to go eBay, that means thrifts/yard sales/flea markets. Just look for something clean that has the WPC you need (at least 50 as indicated above). Look for the usual suspects, Pioneer, Marantz, Sansui, Technics. Also keep an eye peeled for Sony, Harman Kardon, Kenwood, JVC, Aiwa, etc.

2 things to keep in mind when looking for a vintage receiver:

  1. Is it silver faced? It seems silly to judge a receiver on looks, but remember that silver facing was the style in the 70s, which was the golden age of hi-fi. When the faces started to turn black was when shit started to go down hill with consumer audio. Is every silver receiver good and every black one lousy? Not at all. But is this a good way to quickly get an idea about a receiver? Definitely.

  2. Is it heavy? This is another good method for quickly judging vintage audio gear. In general, light weight means bad.

    New: a great new receiver in your price range is the Onkyo TX-8255. Has the 50 WPC your speakers crave. Also has a built in phono preamp (which you need for spinning records) which most modern receivers lack. As it is new there is no sweating shady eBay sellers, or worrying about it dying 3 days after you hook it up. But most importantly, it has a decent, neutral sound. Amazon has it for around $200

    Another nice new receiver that might fit your needs is the Sherwood RX-4105. At 100 WPC you will be banging it nice and loud. It will require an external phono preamp, but at $120 you can afford one.

    If you go with the Sherwood, get this phono-pre, the Artcessories ART DJPRE II . You will not do better for under $100.
u/o0jrock0o · 2 pointsr/audio

These are your best bet in my opinion. They will sound better than that logitech system, and probably last longer as well. With the logitech system you are tying yourself down to using their sub, which means that if you decide you want better bass in the future you will have to either scrap the whole system and start over with dedicated speakers, or try to reuse the Logitech speakers and end up with something sub-par. With the Miccas, you can just add an RCA splitter and a subwoofer and be good to go.

If you want even more flexibility, go with the unpowered Miccas and get an amp like the SMSL SA50, which will be more power than you would ever need for those speakers for near-field (close up) listening.

To save a little money now you could also go with the Micca MB42 instead of the MB42x. The MB42x come with an upgraded crossover and according to most reviewers it is very much worth it to get the upgraded version.

If you really want your system to last a long time, you are much better off separating your components. Get a pair of speakers, get an amp for the speakers, and get a sub all as separate components. That way, you can upgrade components individually in the future without needing to scrap the whole system like you would need to do with the Logitechs. This also applies if a component breaks; you can replace one thing at a time. And even without upgrading, you will still end up with a much, much better sounding system for not much more money.

u/jackdriper · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Sorry this doesn't (directly) answer your question, but at your budget, I think you're better off starting off with a 2.0 system than 2.1. A decent pair of speakers will have better bass extension (goes lower frequency with better clarity) than a cheap subwoofer. It's kind of only worth getting a sub if you can spend more than ~$100 on it, which would put too much strain on your budget. Wait until you save up a little more and expand a 2.0 system to include a sub.

For equipment recommendations, I'll start with the amp, since that has the least amount of flexibility. The cheapest component worth recommending is the Muse M50, but it's not great and doesn't give you a lot of room to expand. The Audiosource AMP-100 is a very capable amp at around $100. A receiver would give you A/V control, but will cost significantly more. Fortunately, there are tons of decent receivers on Craiglist for ~$50 if you're interested in going the used route.

My recommendation to those on a budget is to buy a used receiver for the amplifier. A nice balance of Good Enough quality and low cost.

For speakers, you have a ton more options that really depends on how much budget you have left after the amp. Two suggestions to get started: Pioneer and BIC. The BIC's are more home theater speakers, rather than something for a desk. They get loud, but at a higher cost.

You could also go used again. I love older B&W stuff, and you can probably find some of their speakers used in your budget.

u/explosivo563 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Yep. Which is why they are mostly used in a desk setup. The smsl Q5 (only 50 watts) has a remote, but for $140 I would just look for a receiver. Many more options like digital connections and room correction software. Upgrading to a receiver was the best audio upgrade I've done. Hardcore audiophiles might scoff at receivers for no good reason, but for someone starting out, they are awesome.

I scored a refurbished yamaha 375 for like $130 on amazon. Crazy good deal. The 377 is $170 from amazon warehouse.

The yamaha stereo receiver is also another option with a remote at just $150. Two pairs of 2 channel. Also much easier to connect a sub to a receiver than a 2 channel amp.

Hit up accessories4less for other refurb deals too. Yamaha, denon, onkyo are what I would look out for. Usually good amazon deals on those too.

u/checkerdamic · 3 pointsr/vinyl

Dump the Numark, but the other three will work fine. They aren't top of the line but will definitely get the job done. The transaudio TT does not come with a headshell or cartridge so you need to factor that in. You might be able to talk the sellers down to $100. Make sure you demo absolutely everything when you check them out: TEST TEST TEST. If you can't demo it, walk away. Also, they make some apps to check the speed of TTs: RPM, iRPM, RPM calculator. They aren't 100% accurate so if it says 33.2 or 33.4, you're probably fine. If it says something like 32 or 35, the speed is off.

Also, the Technics SL-D3 /u/RecipeForIceCubes posted in Grand Rapids is a good table, but it's like 50 miles away so that's up to you.

Next you will need a preamp: a fairly cheap one is the ART DJ PREII for $49 on Amazon--if you want to buy a cheap preamp for under $20 you could but it will be something you should upgrade ASAP when you can.

Right now you are not necessarily focused on a huge sound upgrade since you will be plugging the TT into that Panasonic all-in-one you have. Just make sure you have a TT that you can begin to build a setup around down the line and once the rest of your system has outgrown the TT you can upgrade it.

Good luck.

u/KsnNwk · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm not a guru, but to my understanding at 300$ price range you want to start looking at AMP + Bookshelf Speakers for music.

I came to that conclusion with couple days of looking at forums and threads.

Even more so in US and I'm from EU.


and even before that price point some Active Studio Monitors or Active Bookshelf are better quality than Edifiers R series already.

More clarity, more depth and tighter bass, but I cannot speak for Edifier S series, they are supposedly good.

Adam, JBL, Mackie MRT, Klipsch, M-Audio, PreSonus, KRK and some more active brands I'm forgetting.


But at that price you can be looking at some proper Amp + Passive Speakers combos.


If you need Mini-amps for desk and on budget:

SMSL SA-50 68$

Dayton Audio DTA 2.1BT2 95$ - recommend this one for punchy bass and features

You could probably find some good new and used amps, if you can use bigger sized ones.

But like I said I'm no guru.


Bookshelf speakers:

ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 275$

KEF Q100 357$

Q Acoustics 3020i 299$

Q3020 non i version which I tried with Dayton Audio DTA 2.1BT v1. lacked bit bass, decided to go for Mission LX-2 they still haven't arrived.

But they do not seem available in US.



u/T7S · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey guys,

The DAC and amp guide here seems a bit old and I'm a bit of a newbie so I figured I'd ask here.

Here is my current equipment at my work desk:

  • Dell E1505 laptop - crappy, giant, old school enterprise laptop. Only audio output is 1/8th headphone jack and the sound card is awful
  • M-Audio Studiophile AV-40 Active Studio speakers with built in amp

    These are currently connected using a simple 1/8th to 1/8th audio cable, but the end result sounds awful and looks ugly as well since the 1/8th cable has to be plugged in to the front.

    I would like to hook up the laptop to send audio to the speakers, I don't usually use headphones. The speakers use RCA and 1/8th as input, but I'd like to use RCA because those inputs are behind the speaker and won't clutter my desk. In an effort to accomplish this AND improve the sound quality a bit, should I get a DAC? And should I consider switching speakers or do you guys think these are ok?

  • Audio source: laptop.
  • Audio type: music, mostly metal, some IDM, some hip-hop.
  • Willing to buy used: yes.
  • Budget: ideally <$150, the lower the better.

    Ideally, I'm looking for the DAC to run off of AC/USB power since I intend to leave it plugged in 95% of the time. A rotary volume dial would be ideal but isn't strictly necessary. Do I need something like these? And if yes, which one would you recommend?

  • Syba USB DAC
  • Nuforce Icon UDAC-3
  • Modi USB
  • Fiio E10
  • Audioengine D1
  • DAC destroyer

    PS - Could something like this Fiio D3 work maybe? Not sure what kind of adapter would be needed, but it seems unlikely.
u/2518899 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Disclaimer: I've read through the sidebar threads, but I have probably missed something. I also know NOTHING about electronics.

I have purchased the following things:

turntable: Audio Technica AT-LP60 Fully Automatic Belt Driven Turntable

soundsticks: Harman Kardon Soundsticks III 2.1 Channel Multimedia Speaker System with Subwoofer

It seemed like if I hooked the soundsticks to the turntable I wouldn't be able to get stereo? I got this because it seemed like an easy setup. The turntable has a built-in preamp. I couldn't figure out how to connect these though.

So then I got:

receiver: Sony STRDH130 2 Channel Stereo Receiver

Here's the user manual for the Sony receiver.

Still couldn't figure out how to connect the soundsticks.

So. Sigh. I got these:

bookshelf speakers: Fluance AV5 Powerful & Dynamic Two-way Bookshelf Speakers for Home Theater & Music Systems

And now it looks like I need wires??! And "banana plugs"?? And why do the banana plugs come with so many pairs?? Do I need 12-pair? Why?

I am obviously not an audiophile, but I like the sound of vinyl, and I just want to listen to some records (jazz, classical, pop, folk, etc.).

What sound I do? Should I return some of these things? What do I need next to connect these things and play music?

Thank you in advance for your help!

u/billybombill · 3 pointsr/vinyl

I have an SL-B3 (belt driven, but similar to the D3) with a M97xE, and I'm very happy with how it sounds. Unfortunately I currently don't have a way to hook up my Q701's to it so I can't comment on the sound signature with them combined. The Vali will probably add some nice warmness to the sound so my experience would sound a bit different anyways. I'd imagine it will sound pretty good though :)

I don't think you can go wrong with either the 2M Red or the M97xE, I've heard people say that the the 2M has a brighter sound, while the Shure's high's are rolled off. I can't say I've ever been able to hear them side by side though to confirm this.

And yes you will need a preamp to boost the turntable's phono output up to a line level signal. The ART DJ II is pretty good for the price.

u/oddsnsodds · 1 pointr/audiophile

In this price range, you could also get an SMSL SA-50 and Wharfedale Diamond 10.1s:

The Wharfedales are a bit large for desktop speakers, but they're very good. The amp is 50W/ch, better than most powered speakers.

You'd still need a pre-amp, however. I don't know what's available there; I don't own any vinyl.

Edit: KEF Q100s are also available for $250. These are $550 speakers marked down for clearance after a new model was released. I have both speakers. The KEFs are in my home theater; they have great clarity and presence. They're a little dry, it's great for audio and video soundstage. The Wharfedale's are a little less accurate but warmer; I use those on my PC, where the nearfield experience is what I want. Both have excellent bass extension.

u/Sigmund--Fraud · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Budget 200-500 €.

I am looking for a stereo for my HTPC. I listen to all my music, watch all my tv and play all my games via it. So I'm anywhere between 2 meters in the couch to 8 meters away from it. This means I've only got one analouge audio source to bother with - the two RCA connectors on the sound card, which is an Asus Xonar Essence STX if that matters. I never play loud music 'cause of neighbours so I'm not looking for a powerful system capable of drowning out the vaccum cleaner or running water in the sink.

I'm willing to buy used but since I live in Sweden, used market is a bit smaller than the one in the US.

Bonus points if the system is aesthetically pleasing and not too intrusive. There's a regular sized slot in the TV bench that measures 30h x 60w x 60d (cm) and would take a regular sized reciever/amp. I would love to have an amp with old-school VU meters but I would guess that would be out of my price range :) ) There is space both on the tv bench for speakers and next to it for free standing speakers.

Should I go with active or passive speakers? Should I get floor standing speakers or not?

Edit/update: Would this work for me?

Klipsch RB-61 II
SMSL SA50 amp

u/GothamCountySheriff · 4 pointsr/vinyl

Because your receiver doesn't have a phono stage, and unless your turntable has a built-in phono preamp (neither of the Technics you listed have a preamp), you will need an external one.

Behringer makes a basic, but solid one:

And if you want to step up in price a little, the ART DJ II Pre is well proven and very good (it's the one I use):

To me, both tables seem a bit overpriced considering you can't test the working functionality of either. Of the two, I personally would lean toward the SL-B2, as it has a cartridge (assuming that only the needle needs to be replaced as you said) and the dustcover. A replacement stylus and belt are what you will need to get it up and going.

For the SL-B2 a belt will run about $10-15 and an entry-level stylus will generally run about $10-20 depending on the cart. The stock carts on Technics tables were usually pretty good. For the SL-D1 you will need a replacement cartridge. The very entry level Audio Technica 3400 cartridge-stylus combo runs about $35. Even with that you still don't have a dust cover, which substantially reduces the resale value of a turntable. You should be able to haggle both prices down, as both are project tables that need work. If you decide to test out the SL-B2, you can bring a few different size large, wide rubber bands to use as a makeshift belt and see if the platter spins.

And as an FIY: there is nothing inherently wrong with belt-drive turntables. The majority of Pro Ject, Rega and many of the vintage Pioneers (amongst others) that people have on this forum all use belt-drive mechanisms. Like any technology, there are going to be good and bad implementations of both belt-drive and direct-drive mechanisms on turntables. Your best best is to research the specific turntable and see if it has any known problems.

u/brucewillus · 1 pointr/headphones

So, I know I'll get a lot of people saying I need to spend more, but I'm trying to figure out what would be the best use of $100.

My HD6XX's are on their way, and I'm wanting to enjoy them a little more. I currently have a cheap DAC/Amp that has been decent for my HD598's and I'm wondering what you all think would be a good upgrade.

I've been torn between the Fulla 2 and the Magni 3 (I'd use my current DAC with the Magni, and possibly get a nicer DAC down the road). I'm also open to other suggestions, I'd love to hear your thoughts!

Here's the DAC/Amp I've been using, and it's been pretty good so far. Syba Sonic SD-DAC63057 24bit 96KHz USB 2.0 plus Stereo Headphone Amplifier

u/rpbtz · 2 pointsr/vinyl

An amplifier (or power amplifier) will help power your speakers if they are passive speakers. If your speakers are active/powered they have their own power supply and built-in amplifier. A receiver is basically a power amplifier with a built-in radio tuner.

For an phono preamplifier you could check the Art DJPre II. It fits your budget. Also I only checked Amazon so you might want to see if you can find it cheaper elsewhere - prices seem to vary a lot on that one for some reason.

Your next decision should probably be whether to buy passive or active speakers. With active speakers you can skip the power amp/receiver and hook them straight up to the phono preamp, but the prices are usually a little higher than passive speakers for the same quality. Also there generally seems to be a better selection in different price ranges when it comes to passive speakers.

As for speakers - anything you might save from your preamp/amp budget I'd move over to your speaker budget. That's where the sound comes out and is often where you will see (well.. hear) the greatest improvement in sound quality.

You could also skip the external preamp and go for an amp like this Denon which has a built-in phono preamp.

u/radioactivetreefrog · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm looking to get a pair of speakers to use with my pc/XBone

I'm interested in the KEF Q100s ($300), but I'm having a difficult time trying to find a nice-looking desktop-size amp with multiple inputs that wont cost my right kidney.
So far this is what I've found:

NuForce DDA120 $300

I like the amount of optical inputs and the addition of a Bluetooth dongle, but it doesn't have a woofer output for future upgrades and is a bit pricey for my taste.

SMSL Q5 Pro $140

Seems like a good fit, but lacks Bluetooth.

OSD AMP60 $73

Very minimalist, but includes preamp controls and is pretty cheap.
I'm very new to audio so I don't really know if either of these are a good fit for the KEF Q100s

Any help would be appreciated

u/mellovibes75 · 1 pointr/battlestations

So this may be a bit involved for /r/battlestations but for speakers you have two types: passive and active.

Passive speakers are literally just speakers in that they have to be hooked up to an amplifier to work. These are the most common type of speaker you see out there in home theater or stereo set ups, higher quality for less money but you have to have the amp separate.

Active speakers mean they have amplifiers built into the speaker (there will usually be a power/volume knob on the speakers themselves). 9/10 times these are what is hooked up a typical computer. They are smaller and don't require an external amp which is perfect for the average comp set up.

A typical analog set up would go: turntable -> integrated amp (contains pre-amp + power amp, must have phono input) -> passive speakers. It sounds like you have active speakers. If you do, then you would need to pick up a phono pre-amp (this is a popular one) The set up would go turntable -> pre-amp -> active speakers.

The Crosley has all of those things in one package, which while convenient, really impacts quality in the process. So if you could find a used turntable (bonus if the owner recently replaced the needle/stylus) and pick up the pre-amp, you should be golden.

u/Rrussell2060 · 8 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram:
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link:

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link:

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link:

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link:

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link:

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link:

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link:

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

u/niceflipflop · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Great question.

Now that I'm in front of my computer, I found the manual for your specific modules.

You can see where the input port leads to a wall plate module with standard RCA inputs (among other things). You're basically doing the same thing, only with a much more simple module that only includes RCA. And obviously, it's not installed in a remote location. It's just hanging there in the closet.

You've also got a secondary distribution module, but from what I can tell, it's daisy-chained to the first via the 'Cascade Out' port, and it's just because they needed one more speaker output.

What's important is that you'll see in that diagram that the input jacks are clearly accepting a 'line-level out'. That's another term for 'pre-amp'. Higher-end receivers have a set of outputs that bypass the amplifier so that you can provide a clean audio source to another system, like the OnQ.

Unfortunately, your Sony doesn't appear to have line-out. I have a Yamaha that's pretty much the exact same unit. I was also frustrated by the lack of line-out jacks. I needed them for some wireless speakers.

There's definitely devices out there that convert speaker-outputs to pre-amp. They were particularly common back in the day for car stereo installs, because people wanted to add aftermarket amps/woofers to their stock systems and needed an unamplified signal to work with.

But they're not ideal because they introduce noise. It's just not a very clean signal.

It would seem odd to me if someone had a pricey whole-house system like this, only to provide it a muddy audio source via a line-out adapter. But it's doable, I'm sure.

Here's an option...

If you plan to use the Sony as a switcher for TV sources, and you want the house speakers to just play whatever is on your TV, you could tap into the HDMI output on its way to the TV, using one of these.

It's what I used to push the TV audio to the wireless speakers and it worked like a charm. HDMI output isn't amplified, so it satisfies what you need for the OnQ, as well.

Of course, you'd either have to keep all your sources in that closet with the receiver and run an HDMI all the way to your TV. Or keep all that in the living room and run a long RCA cable into the closet.

Here's the catch...

I'm betting anything that like my Yamaha, the HDMI can only output HDMI sources. So this won't let you route, for instance, your iPod connected to your Sony into the OnQ. But if you listen to online music via Chromecast, FireStick, Roku, etc., then this could totally work for you.

u/DZCreeper · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Atmos is both an encoding format and a speaker setup, which are actually independent of each other. If your receiver supports Atmos but your speaker setup is lacking you won't get the expected effects.

Yes, each Atmos channel requires its own output, just like the surrounds. So for a basic 5.2.2 setup you could get something like a $300 Denon X1500. If you wanted 7.2.2 or 7.2.4 you need a more expensive receiver. The cheapest way to handle a full 7.2.4 installation is with a $700 refurb Marantz SR6012 + external stereo amp. The external amp doesn't need much power.

Up-firing speakers are highly inferior to ceiling speakers, and also too costly. Those RP8060FA towers are $1100 each on a good day. You could get a pair of extremely good L/R speakers for about $550, another $150 for front Atmos, and then spend the saved $1500 on a second subwoofer. I will tell you right now, a second subwoofer is the best upgrade you can make for a home theatre setup. The reduction in room modes is always more than you think.

You will need a second pair of ceiling speakers behind the listening position for 7.2.4.

If you do go for dual subs, mid-way along the side walls is usually best but you should use a measurement mic to figure out your own room.

u/Meph616 · 1 pointr/vinyl

I remember doing some research on this sub before buying mine, some good reviews for the Behringer 4400 was tossed around frequently. So I got that. It did its job, but it had a pretty weak output honestly.

I then did some more digging and stumbled across the ART DJPRE III Phono Plus. I got this one because the gain/output was adjustable, and I've used one similar in my local record shop and liked that feature. Plus it has the function of hooking it up to my computer via a USB port and transferring some of my records I don't have digital copies of.

If the USB function doesn't sound necessary then I'd look into the DJPRE III which looks to be mostly the same minus the USB.

Volume wise if I plugged in my iPod with the Behringer it could be at '45' on the amplifier while I would have to max out to '70' to have a similar volume output. Now with the ART my records are audibly as loud as my digital files. Clarity wise I have a modest system so it's clean along with being powerful enough for my needs. For reference I have a Project Debut Carbon turntable, Sony STRDH750 for my receiver, and ELAC B6 "bookshelf" speakers (bookshelf in name only, they're large but fantastic for the price).

u/Buck_j · 4 pointsr/vinyl

Yes, you will need a phono preamp with an Orbit Plus and your receiver. I recommend this one. It is very highly regarded in audiophile forums in its price range. I would not recommend going any cheaper.

That receiver and those speakers are perfectly adequate to get you started, both are considered good entry-level options. Pairing a subwoofer with those speakers will provide a marked increase in sound quality on the low-end. I would recommend doing so. I recommend this sub, as it is a fantastic value and will serve you very well.

Here is some information about hooking up a subwoofer to a stereo receiver that does not have a dedicated subwoofer output. Hint: just use speaker wire in the "B" terminals.

Looks like you have yourself a decent starter setup which should serve you well. Have fun.

EDIT: get your speakers off the damn floor. Either get some stands or a platform to isolate your turntable from vibrations caused by the speakers if you want to put them on top of your shelf (platform probably isn't terribly necessary with bookshelf speakers unless you play your music very loudly).

u/yar-itsdrivinmenuts · 2 pointsr/Music

alight, I've got two suggestions for you. In both cases we're focused exclusilvely on watts per dollar here, so there's no bells or whistles on these things. You want to play the radio? use your computer. you want to EQ? also use your computer. Both of these systems can be enhanced with a sub and/or pre-amp down the road that will improve your experience. but these should work out of the gate.

Option 1: The amplifier is tried and true and speakers are very well reviewed. This system is upgradable later and should pack plenty of punch for a party.

Audiosource AMP100! $107.00

Polk Audio Monitor 50 $126 per speaker

Option 2: These are little outside of your price range, but I wanted to throw them out there as an option. You can think of these as the most kickass computer speakers ever. Completely self powered, just plug it into the wall and feed it an RCA or 1/4" input and you're ready to go. Since you're currently using a guitar amp I'm assuming that you're something of a musician, these would be great for a small home studio as well as in day to day computer use. They'll also definitely rock the house.

KRK RP8 $249 per speaker

Let me know what you settle on.

u/kare_kano · 1 pointr/headphones

Well the HD600 is the most obvious upgrade choice.

They need amping, but they're not hard to drive and they scale well with amp quality. This means you have some flexibility when it comes to the amp. If you plan on upgrading to a better amp in the future, grab an UCA202 for the time being, and save for a $100+ amp for later. If you want an amp now and are not looking for an upgrade in the near future, get a FiiO E10K or SMSL SD793-II.

You can also try simply using them straight out of your PC for starters, if you happen to have a higher quality motherboard by any chance you may be pleasantly surprised by its ability to drive them, and you can postpone getting an amp and save the $30 for the UCA202.

u/cpostier · 20 pointsr/DIY


Hey guys, love all the comments and Questions, here is some info for those who care and want to know.

Products Used*

Bought Mine at MCM electronics.

Raspberry Pi2




Software Running

Get Noobs on a SD/MicroSD card here

Use Noobs to boot and install Rasbian

Install KODI from add remove programs or terminal "sudo apt-get install kodi"

Install NPR and VevoTV in Kodi.

Cool Idea

User /benjimons has a really cool idea on his screen showing his webcams and other good info

User/agent-squirrel mentioned Dashing for a cool UI, I looked a little into it and it seems pretty cool

Dog Info

I don't know HomeDepots official dog policy, but yes, he goes with me all the time there, employees all love him, he is NOT a service dog, and lots of Dogs are in there. I usually see this in HomeDepots that are deeper in residential areas, not so much in a more industrial area...

Thanks, he's a great pup, we call him WiFi because of his Antenna's

u/Dagon · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Strictly speaking, wattages and THD are a good guide for figuring out quality, but are certainly not a hard-and-fast rule. Knowing your brands and trusted opinions are better, listening to it yourself is best.

The link in the sidebar has some good ones.

I'm actually in exactly the same position as you at the moment, I'm considering this one as it's the cheapest (50w per channel, ~au$80 delivered), but apparently this one is much better even though it's only 30w per channel and is $20 more.

Or then again I could anticipate future upgrades and just go for this yammy amp which is 100w per channel for ~$190.

I really like that Denon one you've posted, though. Decisions, decisions.

u/JohnBooty · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Are you specifically looking for something super cool looking, like a lil' work of art on its own, or something that's just unobtrusive and not actively ugly?

A lot of affordable audio gear falls into the latter category. For example, there's this Yamaha which is the Bluetooth enabled version of the Yamaha receiver from the recommended list in the sidebar. Nobody will look at it and say "wow!" but it's fairly sleek and minimal & is not going to call attention to itself.

If you can live without FM radio you can use a tiny (paperback book) sized amp like this:*Version*=1&*entries*=0

A lot of bookshelf speakers are similarly inoffensive - they're just plain rectangles and many are quite compact.

The gorgeous speakers that actually sound great tend to be pretty pricy:

Orrrrr...... put together your own set of DIY speakers and paint them or finish them however you like, Mr. Visual Artist. (It's my new hobby actually)

u/ITzNybble · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

EDIT: I am dumb I just saw you wanted closed back.


open back or closed back? Open back is better for gaming but others will be able to hear what you hear. If it doesn't matter then open back for gaming.

OPEN Headphones:

ATH-AD700X - ~95 - 100 new

ATH-AD900x - ~135 new


HE4XX - $180 new


Sennheiser HD 58X - 160 new -


Closed headphones:

ATH m40x - $100 new

These are deemed better than the m50x's


DT770 80 ohm - 135 new


ATH-MSR7 - 175 new

I owned these and played CSGO and I had no issues hearing anyone. I made it to LEM (if that matters to you) Very clear audio. I also never used an amp with these so they can only get better. if you have more questions on these just message me, I can compare them to the HE4xx's as I now own those.


AMP & Dac:

FX Audio DAC X6 - ~54.99 new


Schiit Fulla 2 - ~120 new


Basically I am no expert as I am just getting into the DAC/AMP world but from my research and this subreddits wiki and other sources, it seems better to put your money into better headphones and then into a better DAC/AMP. I would look for a used pair of headphones from

/r/AVexchange or /r/hardwareswap if you are wanting something better, I picked up a pair of HE4xx for 110 shipped.


Just my two cents. I could be wrong and anyone please feel free to correct me as I am still learning all this.

u/doombot11 · 3 pointsr/vinyl

Speakers should be most of your budget as they have by far the biggest impact on sound quality. I built my entire system for around the same amount, and incidentally also considered the RP6.

I went:

u/Srtviper · 1 pointr/indieheads

For at home use I really like my HD6xx's. (See my edited comment above) But with most $200+ desktop focused headset an amp is important to make use of it's full potential. Even a relatively cheap amp/DAC combo can make a big difference. This amp/DAC for example is $65 and would be a big improvement over built in audio from most laptops/desktops.

But if you want something less power hungry Sennheiser HD1's are also a great choice and will work great with a phone. (Also see edited comment above) Or V-Moda M100 are pretty easy to drive if you are looking for something more base focused. Also I've heard really good things about ath m60x's although I haven't tried them myself.

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'd recommend getting a good set of studio monitors, though your budget should allow for some pretty good passive options as well.

> Studio Monitors

  • Behringer Truth B2031A - $400
  • LSR305 - $280
  • Airmotiv 5S - $400

    I linked to noaudiophiles review for the top two in case you wanted a comparison, both prices are taken from amazon. Emotiva pretty much only sells direct so off their site is the only option.

    > Passives

  • Philharmonic AA Monitor - $210 + Shipping
  • HTD Level 3 - $320 / $350 (Depends on color)
  • KEF Q100 - $300
  • Elac B6 - $280
  • Emotiva B1 - $300

    If you choose to go passive, you'll also need an amp. How much space do you have to work with? If you don't have the space for a full sized receiver, the SMSL Q5 is the best amp I can think of off the top of my head for a desk setup.
u/Pvt-Area · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I just ordered a pair of these tonight, but I'm lost on what amp to get. I am completely new to any sort of advanced audio like this and have only owned gaming headsets and meh-tier earbuds all my life. With that in mind, I don't think I have the most discerning of ears yet and it would probably be a waste to spend 200 on a Schiit stack or 02+ODAC combo, especially considering that's over double the price of my headphones! I would prefer to keep amp/DAC totals to be in the $100 ballpark.


My first question - is a DAC even necessary for these? I'm still not entirely sure what it does, since all of the explanations I've seen have been in audiophile jargon that is gibberish to me. Can I get away with running only an amp or a amp/DAC combo?


A cheap option I've seen while shopping around is a amp/DAC combo as mentioned previously. I've heard SUPER mixed reviews of pairing these 250-Ohm headphones with a Fiio e10k, some saying it works great, but others saying the complete opposite. I've also heard good and bad things about SMSL products like the SMSL SD793-II, one mention highly recommending the iBasso D-Zero Mk2, and another few people recommending the CMOY.


What are my best options here? I would appreciate any help I can get. Sorry for the long post and thank you!

u/murfman713 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

So I bought myself a teac tn-300 during a sale recently and I've been truly loving it along with the vinyl I have been collecting since. However it naturally makes me want to keep improving my system and I'm looking for a good starting point.

I have been using A bose dock by directly plugging into the rear input of the device. Works fine for the time being but it would definitely be nice to start thinking of getting some actual speakers and an amp.

Could anyone recommend a good starting point to look? How much money am I really looking at spending? I'd love to hear the recommendations for my situation.

Specs: The speakers would be mainly used to sound a 20x15 room.

http: //

u/majorscheiskopf · 7 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

That's interesting, but unfortunately most of these builds are DIY and lack any sort of standardization, so you'll have to do most of the heavy lifting in order to figure out what you have, as well as what you need.

As to your first point, you probably do need some sort of room selection, as well as a) an amplifier which powers the speakers, and b) either a single streaming platform (e.g. Chromecast Audio, Sonos Connect, etc.) to send signal to all speakers, or multiple streaming platform to send signal to individual speakers or rooms.

As to your second question, that depends on how you want to answer the above questions, and on how they're set up. As I mentioned, there probably isn't much standardization between this build and others, so I would start this whole process by getting a basic amplifier (Lepai 2020 is fine for this purpose) and going through each wire in that bunch as well as each pair of connectors in the garage (see below). Turn off the amp, hook up a pair of speakers, turn on the amp, play something, track down the sound, label the wires by room (colored electrical tape), stop playing, repeat.

After you figure out how the speakers, wires, and wall panels are connected, you can work on picking out an amplifier, a streaming platform, and a room selection device. I would budget $1000 for this, but it can probably be done for less. If you don't want to spend that right now (understandable), you can probably wire up one room to a Chromecast Audio and an SMSL SA50 (non-plus) for less than $100 if that room has a priority (see below).

As to your last question, those are probably banana plugs. Just another termination for speaker wire, not a big deal in the context of the rest of this. If you need banana plugs, Amazon or Monoprice have them for basically nothing.

The most basic set-up for whole home audio you could have is this speaker selector, this amplifier, and this streaming device. Probably $250 for the full home, or more if you have more than 4 rooms wired.

Alternately, if you want to be able to play two different streams in two rooms simultaneously, you could put this streaming device and this amplifier in the ceiling of each room. Google Home allows for CCAs to be combined into groups rather flexibly- you could put Kitchen-Living Room- Bathroom in one group, and Bedroom 1-Garage in another, and Living Room- Bedroom 1 in another, and every CCA you have in yet another, and still have the ability to play music in any one room on its own. Very nice system, but doing this is realistically $100 per room. If you don't mind limiting yourself to pairs of rooms, you can cut down on this cost by adding a four-channel room selector to this chain.

High-end receivers also may contain their own multi-room, multi-source implementations, but you're typically limited to two rooms, and two sources. Add in two splitters like this and you can expand that capability out to two groups of four speakers, but those groups would be less flexible than the CCA setup above. This setup is $500.

u/BTsBaboonFarm · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Yeah, the LP60 definitely has draw backs and may not take the best care of your records. With a collection that size I'd definitely upgrade the table, and probably go to speakers rather than the soundbard. If $300 is your budget, that can still work. What Id recommend in that range is:

Turntable: - U-Turn Orbit Basic for $179

Phono Preamplifier: - Art Pro DJPRE II for $33

Speakers: - Edifier R1280T for $99.99

This would be a really nice entry level, truly functional, setup that would give you some really nice sound and take good care of your records. For ~$320 after shipping, that's great deal for all new gear.

u/cubiey · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Basically it’s input (phone/computer) -> amp/receiver -> speakers -> ears. Amp/receiver basically just make the signal from whatever powerful enough to drive the speakers. General rule of thumb is to spend the most on speakers (some use the 2/3rds rule, which is good enough for most set ups especially cheap ones) then amp then accessories.

Following this logic, you’d want to spend ~$120-200 on speakers with your budget, good rule of thumb which could net you some killer equipment (see sidebar). As for an amp, old stuff isn’t bad and see below, but if you really want new stuff the R-S201 from is a good one if you want to spend $100+200 for your basic set up+change for speaker wire and input cables. Otherwise, if you just need a low-volume set up, probably get something like for an amp and spend the rest on speakers. The Affordable Accuracy’s, Elac B5s and the rare ~$250 deal on KEF Q100s are all stand outs at the top of your budget, and with Black Friday coming up we might see really good deals on all the equipment you’re looking for.

But if you’re in a big college town, def recommend checking out the local craigslist and shops in town. I went to a big college and the local shops had quite a lot of equipment at great deals, probably from a few too many kids away from parents with credit cards they couldn’t pay off looking to unload their stuff to pay it off. I still check that areas craigslist for good stuff, cause my area is a bit dry for that sort of stuff (or at least isn’t full of people who don’t know what they have or are desperate to get rid of it).

u/teeravj · 3 pointsr/portugaltheman

Why not both?? I collect CDs and records with my own personal sound system.

Get yourself a receiver. This is what I own. You can plug your PC or use bluetooth to connect devices to it, so stream, CD, or anything. And your turntable can plug in directly if you have a built-in pre-amp (see below for options/suggestions).

Get some bookself speakers. I own these and are good for their price, but BE CAREFUL. The receiver is pretty powerful and you risk blowing out your speakers, so don't blast it at 100 for like 48 hrs straight. These are the tower versions.

Turntable time!! Most people bash on the Audio Technica LP-60 for it's tracking force, lack of counter-weight, and speed and such but it's a decently priced TT with a built-in pre-amp for starters. Willing to spend more? Audio Technica LP-120 is fantastic. I own one.

Lastly, just buy an artists music, and support them, and that is what satisfies me.

u/BeardedAlbatross · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Alright, your TV has RCA outputs and the option of fixed or variable output through there. If you wanted you could just grab two JBL LSR305 and connect them with RCA to TRS cables. Probably $450 total but would sound much better than the miccas. Go into your TV audio settings and select variable audio out. This way you can change volume through your TV remote. Just set the amp on the back of the JBL speakers to 8 or so and never touch them again.

If you want to go the passive speaker route for upgradability then you can grab a stereo receiver like this Yamaha for $200. Just plug your TV in with RCA cables. This allows you to spend an extra $100 on speakers. You'll save even more money if you look through your local listings for a used receiver. If you like the Klipsch sound you can go for these. Otherwise look through your local listing for a good tower speaker that you can afford. I was going to recommend the Pioneer FS52 but a pair of those would go over your budget. You can try pairing them with a cheap SMSL amp, but I would be worried they would distort a tad early.

The best sounding setup out of the box would be the JBL LSR305, but it's also the least upgradeable setup.

u/AMLRoss · 3 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

If you like Sennheiser then the 660S are pretty good. Only 150ohms so they are much easier to drive. (compared to other 600 series that are 250ohm)

I would still recommend getting a dac/amp because that will usually make a difference over a direct plug to the motherboard. Something cheap like the FX Audio Dac X6 would be a good starting point.

The Beyerdynamic DT1990 get very good reviews for open sound stage:

These are all around the $500 mark and will be a huge improvement over your old ones. These are also open back.

Im sure others can list some other options.

u/Vaga13ond · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

These will all do great for a multimedia speaker system.

Kanto Yu4 (4" speaker) -®-Preamp/dp/B01N7OMH3M

Kanto Yu6 (5.25" speaker, bigger but will have better output)®-Preamp/dp/B01N1YSXWE


Vanatoo Transparent Zero's

As for subwoofers you really can get anything you like. From the budget Bic F12 to the matching Yu Sub8 to anything SVS makes. I know you listed your budget in Euro's, but I don't know a common site like Amazon to just get you basic pricing in Euro's so forgive the links to all over the world.

The other option is to go passive.

Amplifier: SMSL AD18 w/ subwoofer output

Speakers/sub: Anything really. This more depends on regional pricing and availability. Here we can get the KEF Q100's for around $250-$300 US. But anything well reviewed that only needs around 40w of power will work well with that amplifier. There's a good number of well reviewed subs that will work for you with the €350 ish left after the DAC/amp and speakers.

u/adrianmonk · 2 pointsr/audio

Those are regular passive speakers. They do not contain an amplifier (hence no power cord or batteries), so you will need an amplifier to put between them and your laptop. The amplifier makes the signal strong enough to physically moves the speakers. (Your laptop has a weak amplifier in it, but only strong enough to power headphones.)

One popular cheap amplifier is the SMSL SA50. I've never used it, but it's less than $70 and should be pretty adequate for your purposes. A nicer way is to buy a stereo receiver, which will have a remote, better circuitry, the ability to switch between several sources, and more, but those start at around $150-200 minimum. (Although if you are knowledgeable and careful, you can find used receivers on craigslist for far less.)

Anyway, most amplifiers have RCA inputs, so you will need a 3.5mm (same connector as headphones) to stereo RCA cable for connecting your laptop to the amplifier. Then you need speaker wire for connecting the amplifier to the speakers.

u/usul1628 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Well, nice is a relative term when spending $300 on speakers and a subwoofer. Its alot to ask for on that budget IMO, but it can certainly be done if it just plugs into a computer. /r/zeos has lots of good info, using his guide, I'd pick the Polk On-Walls for $100, Martin Logan 8" Subwoofer for $130 and an SMSL SA50 for an amp. You'll need banana connectors, speaker wire and a 3.5mm to stereo RCA for connectivity. That should be a good balance of sound. Don't get this setup without the subwoofer though, those speakers are designed presuming you have a sub, and will fit nicely on your desk, and the sub is small enough to fit comfortably underneath.

u/MistaHiggins · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

Active speakers have separate audio and power inputs. They each have a power cable going to the wall in addition to a cable going to the media device. They do not require an external amplifier.

Passive speakers only have one combined audio/power input. Most speakers are passive and require an external amplifier.

For a home theater setup, I have been recommending a 3.0 + receiver setup for years to my friends. My friend finally purchased a center channel and wishes he would have done it years ago.

Home theater receivers like this one are 4k HDR HDMI switches and amplifiers built into one. You would plug your media devices into your receiver and switch between them using the receiver instead of the TV. I do not recommend using an analog stereo amplifier in a home theater setup - buy a good current generation 5.1 receiver and you won't have to replace it unless it breaks or until HDMI goes away.

After picking up a receiver, you would need some speaker wire and then some passive speakers to pair with it (like OP). Connecting the speakers to your receiver is as simple as connecting red to red and connecting black to black.

Post script: Most media now is produced primarily with 5.1 mixing, meaning that the dialogue is engineered with the assumption that a dedicated center channel speaker is present. Your sound will be way more clear if you were to buy a receiver and stereo speakers compared to built-in TV speakers, but there is a massive massive difference once you are able to listen to the proper 5.1 sound mix when using stereo + center channel setup. Ever felt like you needed to turn up the sound to hear the talking and then turn it down once a chase/shooting scene started? That ends when the characters can talk through a center channel speaker.

As others have suggested, /r/zeos is a fantastic audio resource. I've been extremely happy with all the gear I've purchased from his recommendations.

u/ajjjas · 1 pointr/audiophile

The Onkyo is nice, I've had one for a while, and I like it, but it doesn't have a remote. I would consider the SMSL Q5 Pro if you can deal with the inputs, but if you're looking for something higher end, I've enjoyed listening to the Teac AI-301DA.

If you're fine without the remote, the Onkyo has been a solid performer for me. As for subs, I've heard and enjoyed a friend's Hsu Research VTF-1. I have a Klipsch R-12SW that has served me fine, but I got it for a song new, and if you're paying full price, the Hsu is a much better value.

Also, if you go with the Hsu, it has speaker-level pass throughs, so that opens up the avenue for 2ch amps without discrete sub outs, and I'm always quick to recommend the Emotiva A-100.

u/Midgetforsale · 1 pointr/vintageaudio

Looks like that stereo only puts out 50 watts total, so 25 watts per channel. That's pretty low, but it shouldn't hurt your speakers. You could use the stereo and those speakers to play cds, stuff off your phone, etc. What you cannot do at this point is use this stereo with your dad's turntable. A turntable outputs at very low power. You could plug it into the stereo aux input, but the sound would be very small. You have two options if you want to use the turntable, first you could buy a phono preamp. I wouldn't spend less than 50 dollars and at that range this one is recommended often. You would plug the turntable into this preamp, and then use rca cables to plug the preamp in to the stereo. That would work.... okay. The stereo will still be your real weak point here. So your other option is to find a different receiver with a built in phono preamp. What did your dad use to power to turntable and speakers? If he has an old receiver left over from the 80s, it could be a real gem! Even if it is a lower end receiver from back then, it will probably produce much better sound than that Walmart stereo. If he doesn't have the receiver anymore, go check out thrift shops. You can almost always find vintage stereo equipment for pretty cheap at thrift shops and flea markets. Look for names you've heard of before and you'll probably be fine. See if they will let you test it first. Make sure it powers on, hook it up to some cheap speakers if they let you and see what kind of noises it makes. Turn the dials. A lot of old receivers will produce static when you turn the dials, but this is an easy fix (spray it with deoxit!). Even if you can find like a Denon or Onkyo or something from the black plastic era, if it has a phono input you'll be better off.

u/leica_boss · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

A DAC's purpose is simply to decode the audio stream (usually PCM) and provide an analog output, outside of the computer, free from interference. Nearly every external DAC will do a better job than internal soundcards. They can be connected via USB, Coaxial, or Optical. If you have an optical/coax jack on your motherboard or existing soundcard, you are set. Otherwise, look for a DAC with USB input, and you will not need a soundcard on your PC at all.

When using optical/coax output from the PC, if configured right, the built-in soundcard does nothing to the audio signal. Ideally it's sending the PCM signal straight from an audio file or CD, to the DAC. A DAC in most cases is an external sound card.

A Headphone amp's purpose is to take the line-level input, amplify it and provide a volume control. A DAC/AMP does both.

With an external DAC you can expect less noise/hiss in the background, and if you can hear it, a better SNR (signal to noise ratio) or dynamic range. Most of the sound characteristics you will hear will be coming from your headphones or amplifier.

For PC audio, there are many combinations of devices. Some are combined DAC/AMP. Some combine a loudspeaker amplifier for desktop speakers.. You can get any combination. Some provide line-level outputs for chaining multiple devices together, or pre-amp level outputs allowing for a common volume control.

It sounds like you just need a single device solution for your headphones. Have a look at the SMSL SD793-II. This is a very nice DAC with optical/coax input (no USB), and a good headphone amplifier. It also has an RCA input for use with an analog source to feed your headphones. It also can be used as an RCA output from the DAC, so this DAC can function as a headphone amplifier, and feed a power amplifier for loudspeakers you might get down the road. I have one and really like it.

u/rikrcar21 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Looks like your turn table has a built in Phono amp meaning all you need is a good set of speakers, wire and a stereo/integrated amp.

The speakers you mentioned are rated at 6ohms meaning they are going to need a little more power to drive than a typical 8ohm speaker.

I don’t know much about the amp you are looking at but I see it’s rated for 50watts @ 8ohm and your floor standing speaker is wanting up to 100 Watts.

If your looking to rock these 6ohm towers I would suggest something a little more robust like this 100watt stereo amp:
Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver

Also a good place to grab great and affordable interconnects you will need check out Monoprice. You will need an RCA audio cable to plug your turn table into the amp:(just get the correct length)

And speaker wire to plug the amp into the speakers:

That should keep you well under your budget.

If your not set on your speaker selection I can’t think of a better budget speaker than Elac’s B6.2. I own the previous model B6. All the same recommendations above apply in regards to amp and interconnects.

u/ArmandoG · 1 pointr/audiophile
  1. What is your budget?

  2. What are you looking for?
    Looking for a pair of bookshelf speakers, a 2-channel stereo receiver that can be used as a home theater setup with my speakers, playstation, and tv.

  3. How will you typically be using the gear?
    I will use the gear for music (indie rock, hiphop - no EDM), gaming, and sound for my TV (sports, movies, shows)

  4. What gear do you own?
    The only gear I own are my TV (60" Samsung LED 1080p Smart TV), and my playstation 4. I could probably figure out some stands for the speakers too. Other than that, I have nothing.

  5. What do you intend on using for a source?
    Right now, I want to play music off my phone and/or laptop. Sound also playing through my TV/playstation. Down the road, I want to get a turntable and start collecting records.

  6. What material will you be using your gear for?
    Gaming, music, movies, sports, shows. Music - indie rock, hip-hop, ambient, punk rock, post-rock, etc. No EDM business here.

  7. Are you willing to buy used?
    Would rather not.

    Someone kindly gave me a few suggestions before, but I'm afraid the stereo receiver isn't what I need. I'm a bit of a newb to hi-fi audio - but would the receiver suggested below satisfy my needs? I feel that the stereo receiver would need some HDMI inputs for the playstation and an output to the TV? Hopefully someone can help me with this. Here were the suggestions that were given by a previous individual (which, thanks for the previous suggestion! Just want to make sure I am getting everything I need before making a $500 purchase.)

    Bookshelf Speakers - Elac B6, $279

    Stereo Receiver - Yamaha R-S201BL, $129

    Wifi Addition - Airport Express, $49

u/The_BallCrusher · 1 pointr/vinyl

Like people have said vinyl is a for those who love to tinker, and to hunt for that new record or upgraded component. If you just want to be able to listen to great sounding music and not worry about the stuff in the middle, download some FLAC files, buy a nice USB DA converter and enjoy, there is noting wrong with digital audio. If you still want to see what its all about, surf the craigslist list, get a turn table. then get a $30 pre-amp from Amazon, and a small headphone amp. the one i linked to actually has a built in USB DA converter so you can get your good sound card too. That will be the cheapest way to get in to vinyl, for just over $200 if you end up having to pay a high price for the turntable on craigslist list. those components i linked to with a decent vintage turntable and your nice headphones will sound great.


headphone amp:

u/gatesphere · 1 pointr/vinyl

I am! I'm using the ART USB Phono Plus and I love it. It is admittedly overkill, though -- internally it has the same preamp circuit as the ART DJPre II.

I grabbed the USB Phono Plus over the DJPre II because the Phono Plus also has a USB output and a built in headphone amp. My setup didn't have a headphone output and I wanted to listen at night without waking the neighbors. The USB output is also a plus because I like to digitize some of my thrift finds for kicks, and I want to be able to do that even after I eventually rip out the built-in preamp (haven't done that quite yet, but I've been inside my TT -- looks super simple, even with my rusty soldering skills).

I'm really impressed with the ART, though. It has great sound for my price range. Much nicer than the built-in preamp to my ears.

u/wsteineker · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I have that particular turntable, though mine is hooked up to a much smaller set of speakers. To put it in the simplest terms possible, you're going to need an amp and some speaker wire. Connect the turntable to the RCA input on the amp, then run speaker wire from the outs on the amp to the corresponding ins on the speakers themselves. That's it.

It looks like those Sonys can handle up to 60 watts @ 8 ohms, so they seem pretty efficient. You shouldn't need a ton of power to get them a little loud while still sounding good. As far as hardware recommendations go, I've been very happy with my little SMSL SA50. It should get you a nice, clean sound for less than $70 shipped. I went with these Mediabridge 16 gauge pre-finished cables, but you can always just cut your own and screw the bare ends down/clip them in if you're looking to save a few bucks or if your speakers lack binding posts.

There are also loads of vintage stereo amp options out there for less than $100 if you're willing to dig a bit and are comfortable with something that might have a few miles on it. I recommended the SMSL because it's compact, solid, and new in the box. Either way, enjoy your turntable and those Sonys you saved from the scrap heap!

u/tvtoo · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

Your best solution is a new TV (instead of a 'monitor' like the Marantz).

Your second best solution is:

u/badger28 · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I can try, but I'm terrible at reviews. The formatting can change if someone can think of something better.

Item Name:ART DJPRE II Phono Preamplifier

Item Type: Pre-Amp

For $49 USD this little pre-amp isn't bad for starting out. Don't get me wrong the amp isn't terrible and probably one of the better ones you can find for under $50. I'd only use this to start out and see if you will stick with records. Other than the Cart this will be one of the first things I'm going to upgrade. the downsides of the device are it does not have a power button so it is always on and has a pretty bright light. Also the Wall wart is kinda big.


  • Cheap
  • Small
  • Easy to use


  • No power switch
  • Light is always on and bright
  • Wall wart is a little big for my liking


u/ryanhowardthetemp · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

First of all.... Your a saint!! I never expected someone to actually go on craigslist for me!!! Just one question though. The reason I spent so long on craigslist before was that I kept finding deals i thought were good, but finding the same product cheaper online. For example I found the wharfedale for 125$

kEF for 111$

Is ebay still generally cheaper than craigslist? Or is there a reason I should use craigslist instead of ebay. BTW I think the klipsch look like best bang for buck I think....

Also I have narrowed it down to between the Sony and Yamaha receiver. Both have used options for 78$ for sony

and also 125$ for yamaha.

In your infinite wisdom is yamaha worth the extra 45$? Once again thanks for your first response.

u/wolfcry0 · 1 pointr/audio

Oh ok, I looked through the manual but it's very sparse with any info.

Sounds like it does have inputs you can use, do they look like this? If they do you just need a basic 3.5mm to RCA cable to connect your phone to the system.

>so could you tell me how to use those speakers to work for my phone/laptop? Using an amplifier like you mentioned?

If you don't want to use the main sony unit, yeah you could buy an amplifier and connect the speakers to that instead.

Something like this for a cheaper one that you'd connect with a cable to your phone, or if you wanted a nicer one with bluetooth this would be a good option.

u/tonetonitony · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey! I'd like to purchase a receiver, new or used, for under $200. There are two highly rated models on Amazon:

Yamaha Natural Sound Stereo Receiver R-S201

Onkyo TX-8020 Stereo Receiver

So far I just have a set of Pioneer Andrew Jones bookshelf speakers. I'd like to purchase this receiver in order to play FLAC files from my laptop. In the future I'd like to add a turntable to the setup. I'm okay with not having surround sound.

Also, I'd be comfortable buying vintage if you feel that's a better option. Here's my local Craigslist:

Thanks for your help!

u/b1g_bake · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I know you already have a receiver, but for simplcity I would recommend a small class D amp like this. Chip amps like these run off a laptop charger basically and are very efficient. I leave mine on 24/7 and it only uses real power when it's amplifying music. You pair that with a 3.5mm to RCA adapter and a Chromecast Audio and you're set.

Easy control of the music by voice or by phone. We use spotify with our Google Home's and love it. Currently running my setup on 4 in-ceiling speakers. I plan to replicate this to outdoor speakers for my back deck. When you starting adding more zones my method is pretty economical compared to other multi-zone amplifiers.

u/mattycmckee · 1 pointr/audio

Lots of stuff here.

First and foremost, no one is going to be able to tell the difference between 320 kbps MP3 and flac. If they say they can, they're lying. The difference is just so small that it's not even perceivable. Maybe in a very specific circumstance, with a very specific sound, would someone with a very well trained air be able to tell the difference, but 99% of the time, no.

When you say 24 Khz, I think your referring to sample rate. Sample rate and bitrate (the 320 kbps part in a 320 kbps MP3) are the resolution of the audio. Sample rate is the number of samples in a given time and bitrate is the quality of the stream. The best place for sample rate is going to be 44.1khz (ideally you want double the original frequency to reproduce the sound perfectly, so 20khz multiplied by 2 is 40khz, then 44.1khz is the actual setting). 192khz is a waste of space.

Human hearing range is from 20hz to 20khz, and even at that, most people struggle to hear anything after about 17khz anyway.

Onboard audio (on mobos) is normally pretty poor (why your Samsung sounds better, they have pretty high quality DACs iirc), so I'd recommend getting at least a cheap DAC/AMP, I recommend this one as I've personally used it and it's great.

u/OfficialJeZeus · 1 pointr/audiophile

I recently purchased the SHP 9500s and the Vmoda boom mic. Upgrading from an old $20 Turtle Beach PSL headset to this new setup, it's amazing, but I'm having issues with the Vmoda boom mic. For reference my setup is SHP 9500s to Vmoda mic and cable through Y splitter to onboard audio with latest realtek drivers (the drivers' supplied by the motherboard's manufacture had issues for me).

The cables are plugged into the back ports, as for whatever reason the mic and headphones are a little louder when plugged in through the back. (Speaking of which, does it matter whether realtek detects my headphones as speakers or headphones? I tried re-tasking the rear jacks but it didn't work). My issue is there is some static noise in the mic and the volume is sorta quiet even when set to 100 (and with any +DB boost the static in the mic is amplified and is terrible). Would the y-splitter provided by Vmoda have anything to do with the static interference?

I've read that this can be possibly fixed with the use of a usb soundcard or something of the sorts. What would you guys recommend to help solve this problem?

For example something like this : Z mentioned it in one of his reviews and said it was a perfect add on to the Vmoda mic and SHP9500s combo.

u/chadochocinqo · 1 pointr/buildapc

I do plan on picking up a DAS, found a pretty good one under $100 here.

I did have my heart set on a build with the AMD RX 480 and I found a good deal on newegg for this GPU and power supply in my build, Along with the optical drive and the storage solutions I have listed in my build.

So basically the GPU/PSU, optical drive, and storage drives are all aspects I would like to keep. If the motherboard has optical audio then I won't need the sound card. But other than that I don't mind about the rest of the parts. And black and red.

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it!

u/jimbob_9245 · 1 pointr/vinyl

My mom upgraded her stero setup a couple years ago and I incorporated it with our TV system so the audio from our TV plays out of the stero. She had a turntable with her old receiver that still works, but isn't compatible with our new stero. After doing some research, I think the issue is that we need a preamp to connect the old turntable to the new receiver (I guess the old receiver had one built in). Would it just be easier to get a new turn table? (the old one is probably over 20 years old) even though it is still functional? Am I right about needing a preamp? I was looking at this preamp. I know my mom likes the "warm" (not sure how to describe it) sound of vinyl records but she is by no means an audiophile and doesn't listen to records very often so I don't need anything to premium. I'm looking to get this all set up for her for mother's day, and I will be paying for it (I'm a student in highschool) so I won't be able to afford anything too expensive. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Here's some pictures of her old reciever, the turn table, the connections that the turntable uses (it doesn't have a power plug?), and the new reciever that we plan on plugging it into.

u/chilighost · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I'm wondering if I can get some help/advise in regards to speakers for my Fluance RT81 that is currently on order. I have narrowed it down to these two sets: Fluance Signature Series Bookshelf Speakers:

Klipsch R-15M Bookshelf Speakers:

Both seem to be passive speakers so I would need an amp as well apparently. I don't plan to connect them to a AV receiver - just the turntable and speakers. Can anyone recommend a good amp for this setup? I found this one on Amazon ( which seems to get decent reviews.

I am new to vinyl but I want speakers that have some good bass to them (without a sub) since I won't be connecting to a receiver. Which of these speakers will provide the best highs and enough bass?

Any recommendations would be helpful - thank you!

u/riley212 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Philharmonic affordable accuracy monitors $200, probably the best speakers for 300 or less. good bass too, you will probably be pretty happy without a sub for a while.

SMSL SMSL Q5 blackQ5 2x50W Amplifier DAC $135, this has a usb dac for your computer and RCA line level inputs for a phono preamp. 50 wpc wont be deafening but will power those bookshelfs well enough.

U turn orbit TT $300 this is really the cheapest TT i would recommend getting. it has a good needle and allows you to make the proper adjustments so you don't destroy your records. i would not bother with the Audio technica. if this is too much, spend that money on a better amp and dac separates.

Art DJPRE II $50 does what is is supposed to do.

u/Snaxmaster93 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I would probably try to save up for a dac/amp combo for computer use instead of the tv dac.

The Topping Mx3 is good, has a sub out for down the road ( r/ )

This Smsl would be great too ( r/ )

Otherwise, you could go with the amp you linked and spend more on the speakers. Micca mb42x would be good for cheap. I personally love the Parts express c-notes ( they are diy $100 r/ ) and are not much more then the micca's and are superior in every way. Can't go wrong with pioneer bs-22 LR as well, although they are kind of awkwardly sized. I would consider these great budget options.

u/The_Aux · 1 pointr/headphones

I would use your headphones for a bit and see how much you enjoy them as is before adding a DAC. There are also some more economical DAC/Amp combos like the SMSL AMP/DAC(63$ and the one I'm currently using for my K7XX's).

People also recommend the FiiO E10K 76$

/u/zeospantera who seems to be pretty knowledgeable about this stuff has a good guide here where he says

"DAC's and Amplifiers. Do I need? I'm not going to say everyone will benefit from a good dac and amp. But everyone can benefit from a good dac and amp. Soundstage, Low-end, clarity in highs can all be improved by an amp no matter if a set of cans is Easy or Hard to drive. A dac or an amp or combination of both can make a world of difference but unfortunately you won't know if you benefit until you try."

Hopefully that helps.

u/SaltedKittyBits · 1 pointr/headphones

Hello everyone, just picked up some Beyerdynamic 770 Pro 32 Ohms over the weekend and I'm absolutely loving them so far.

Even at the risk of sounding like a dumbass, I'm stumped. They sound great but I'd love for them to potentially sound even better. I have a SMSL SA-50 Amplifer which powers my Micca MB42X speakers. This setup worked extremely well in the past as all I had were some crappy Steelseries Siberia V2's for gaming.

But now do I need more equipment to have my headphones sound as good as they possibly can? I know very little about DACs/Amps or audio equipment in general but from what I do know I'm missing something crucial.

Sorry if my question is vague and please let me know if you need more information!

Thanks for any help you can provide.

u/Pokegamer · 1 pointr/vinyl

I dont claim to be an expert in audio, but this sony and this yamaha are popular new receivers. If you want a deal, try craigslist or FB marketplace. They aren't the worst spots to look but it takes patience.

There are also lower end amps if you dont want to spend a crap load of money, something like this would also get the job done. It wouldn't be the most amazing amp ever made but it wouldn't be the worst.

As for the preamp, it depends. Some people have no problem using a table's built in pre, others think they're garbage and even cut them out of the table. Using the built in pre saves some money but the sound quality won't be 100%. Might be more in the range of like 90% but that's not acceptable for some.

It's really what you are ok with. I personally run through my lp120's pre into an active speaker right now, but i'm getting a cheaper amp and passive speakers to free up my active speaker cause it's more portable and has other uses for me. I'm sure someone will tell you how I'm using a terrible setup, but it's what I'm ok with.

u/arcella12 · 1 pointr/vinyl

So I just received my first turntable today and set everything up and I love it! However, I have noticed a lot of distortion when the music gets loud across all levels. It becomes very difficult to differentiate each layer. I feel like my tracking weight and anti-skate may be the culprits but I can't figure out the perfect combination of the two.

My setup is as follows:

  • Turntable: Fluance RT82
  • Preamp: ART DJPREII (grounded to turntable)
  • Receiver: Denon AVR X2100w
  • Speakers: Bowers & Wilkins 683 s2 Tower Speakers

    I'm really hoping I didn't accidentally damage the stylus during setup because it did accidentally fall into the rubber mat. The sound is great when the music is at a quieter point so I don't think it would be that, but I could be wrong. Any help is appreciated!
u/SchroedingersHat · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Anything bluetooth/portable will be way less value for money so only do that if you need it to be bluetooth/portable.

I would second the recommendation for passive speakers, but for your use case maybe also consider slightly cheaper speakers than most around here would recommend, and pairing it with a sub.

Something like this sub or this
With a small amp like this

And then spend the remaining 120-170 on some passive bookshelf speakers [(a list)]( /i_have_xxxxx_to_spend_what_should_i_buy_bookshelf/)

Someone else may help you narrow down which speakers. Edit: The Pioneer BS22 looks like a good option.

u/willardthor · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile
  1. Maybe I misunderstood you (or I wasn't clear); the effect I desire, is that there is one place I raise/lower volume (be it a knob or a remote control), which causes the volume of both the bookshelf speakers and the sub to be raised/lowered accordingly.

  2. @ better to manage bass w/ receiver: Even if the sub is powered? OK, good to know.
  3. That is a good suggestion; thanks.
  4. OK; I'll check out used towers; if I find them dirt-cheap, I'll grab them instead of doing a bookshelf+sub combo. And that 100Hz bit is great piece of info; thanks for that.
  5. I'm finding it difficult to find used receivers / preamps that have TOSLINK / SPDIF input (the manufacturers only advertise their newest products); is there a convenient list of products-by-manufacturer somewhere I can browse to find a receiver / preamp that is new enough to have this?

    Assuming I find no cheap used amps that fit the bill, would these do the job? (or are they too weak?)

u/Mungbunger · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I am planning on buying some ELAC B6s but I need an amplifier. I will mostly be listening to music through streaming services like Spotify in my room. I had this SMSL SA50 amplifier recommended to me. I was told it'd be fine for my purposes and if so I'll buy it but if you've got other recommendations, I'd love to hear them. I'm willing to buy used. I live in the Salt Lake City, UT area. I'd like to not spend much more than $100 for one though. I'm planning on using Chromecast Audio to make it a wireless setup. I'd love to hear any thoughts and suggestions or advice.

u/SmittyJonz · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

the Lepy amp or the Kinter will Drive them. Supposed to be 20RMSx2 so a 40 or 50 x2 amp........I'd buy an amp that comes with power supply to make it easy. You'll have Better Highs than the Bose, maybe less Bass but more Balanced Overall.

3.5mm to rca cable to hook to PC........

Need 1 -

Banana Plug speaker wire makes it Easier to hook speakers to amp - just plug in like rcas But Not necessary

Need 2 -


I run Micca MB42Xs on Desktop with a Topping MX3 Dac/headphone amp/amp combo with Bluetooth. Room is 14x18' and Open to Kitchen on One side with a bar separating them. Fills Room(s) Pretty Well.

Recorded on Iphone so does Not convey the Sound Quality.........

other amps: (Bluetooth)

this One has Bluetooth and supposed to be Clean. My Choice if not a Topping MX3.........


MB42X + SMSL SA100 amp+ 3.5mm to Rca cable+ 2 Amazon Basics Banana Plug Speaker wires = $173.69 plus tax

u/piratenovelist · 3 pointsr/ToolBand

I am going to be using this article plus my own personal experiences in the 7 years I have been collecting:

Turntable: Audio-Technica ATLP120USB Direct Drive Professional USB Turntable Price $229.00 (On Sale at the time of this writing) it comes with a built in Pre-Amp so you are good to go. This is one I have been eyeballing myself.

Amplifier: Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver Price $149.95 (On sale at the time I am writing this). This is the one I personally use and I love it. It has multiple channels so you can allow for growth. For example I got a stereo cd player at the local thrift store I am trying to upgrade. I just need RCA Cables to hook it up which I do.

Speakers: Price $49.98 (Sale at the time I am writing this)

Wire from speakers to Amp: AmazonBasics 100ft 16-Gauge Audio Stereo Speaker Wire Cable - 100 Feet Price $13.49

Headphone Adapter (Trust me you'll need this if you want to listen to music via headphones) Adapter Price: $7.99

Subtotal: $450.41‬ plus taxes. I think you have wiggle room on the speakers, but I searched for high rated ones. If you need help setting up your Turntable and Stereo please feel free to reach out and I can help! :D

u/Elstir19 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Needing help with new set up for my wife’s Technics SL-BD20

17 years ago my wife and I got married and moved into a new house and my wife’s old Technics SL-BD20 turntable never got unpacked. We had small children at the time and not much room.

Now the kids are older and we still don’t have much room, but she’s always been a big fan of vinyl and as a Christmas present I’d like to get her up and running again!

I considered buying a new turntable (the LP120), but she’s always cherished her SL-BD20 turntable, so I am pretty set on keeping this turntable. If she really gets back into vinyl we can upgrade in a couple years.

And I want to keep the whole process as simple and straightforward as possible since I really have no clue what I am doing!

Today, I plugged in the turntable and everything appears to be functioning as it should.

She has a Sony LBT D108 stereo with direct phono hookup and some large-ish Sony SS-D110 speakers. I want to ditch these and figure out a smaller set up for the time being.

I’d like to keep the footprint as small as possible and as I am a woodworker I may even build her a cabinet and shelf unit to house everything.

So from my research it appears I need a pre amp and some powered speakers. And a new cartridge. And probably a new belt to have on hand.

I was wanting to spend about $50 on the pre amp. From doing a little research this seems to be a good one: ART Pro Audio DJPRE II

Another $25 on a cartridge: Audio-Technica AT92ECD

And then perhaps some smallish powered bookshelf speakers for around $100 or perhaps a bit more if it makes sense. I could really use some suggestions on speakers.

I’m looking to maybe spend a couple hundred bucks total to get her back to listening to vinyl.

Sorry, I am a total noob and have zero experience with stereos etc. Will I need any other adaptors or speaker wire or anything else?

u/nevermind4790 · 4 pointsr/vinyl

That player should have a preamp if I remember correctly. So all you would really need from there is a receiver and speakers. If you get a receiver with a phono input, turn the preamp off on the record player and make sure to use that input in the back. If it doesn't, you'll need to turn the preamp on.

Here's what I mean, this receiver has a phono input while this one doesn't (at least it doesn't list one and the back inputs don't say). I'm not saying buy either of these or that they're great cause I really don't know, I'm just using them as examples.

You'll hear from a lot of people around here to look for vintage equipment. I would agree with that. In that case you'll want to scour craigslist, ebay, garage sales, etc.. You can probably get a great vintage receiver for ~$50 (not sure what that is in pounds) if you do some looking. Just don't expect HDMI inputs and the like.

For speakers there are a lot of options. Don't cheap out and use crappy speakers. Buy some nice bookshelf speakers; I say bookshelf speakers instead of floorstanding speakers because those seem to be the most used for a 2 speaker set up. I'm not sure what brand most people use around here. I have some Yamaha's from the 90's that I absolutely love. Vintage speakers can also be found for less than new speakers.

But what receiver and speakers you should buy really comes down to what sound and usage YOU want. A 2/3/4/5 speaker set up? Subwoofer? Do you also want to use your receiver for your computer's and/or TV's sound?

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/audiophile

I posted in last weeks thread but it was switched with this one before my question was fully answered.

After experiencing music in an entirely different way after finally listening to some songs on a half decent pair of headphones I want to get into the audiophile game. I've done a bunch of reading but am still feeling pretty lost amongst all of the different choices. I'm looking for a bedroom system used primarily to play lossless files from my 13'' mid-2012 MacBook Pro; it won't be part of a larger av system. I am familiar with all the different components but not sure where to begin, or what I need. I've got an ~$500-$1k budget but am looking to build up in stages, I'd like to invest in quality essentials with the possibility of future expansion. I don't really understand the difference between receivers, amplifiers and pre-amps, as well as where DACs come into the mix. Some clarification on this would be great.
If I went with a USB Schiit Modi dac, this amp, and these bookshelves, would everything work all right? Am I spending too much in one area and skimping on another?


u/AlienStag · 1 pointr/ZReviews

This is the DAC/amp combo I use for when I need a mic input. Also has pre-outs that I use to send the signal to my O2 amp. Relatively cheap, amp isn't the strongest but strong enough for most gear, and definitely enough for the X2. The noise floor is also significantly better than onboard (tested with highly sensitive IEMs, like the RE-400, ZS6, and AS10). Been happy with my purchase, which I had made about 1.5 years ago.

u/msuts · 0 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

IMO, neither of those models are really audiophile level. Both have lackluster specs and built-in preamps, both of which will rob you of sound quality, even if you don't realize it at first.

/u/hanger_s already mentioned the vintage route, and that's the best way to go. So many rock-solid turntables were made in the late 70s and early 80s that work perfectly to this day and outperform their newer counterparts in many ways.

In the interest of speed stability, look for quartz locked TTs. [[EDIT: The reason I say this is because many new TTs are belt-drives with unimpressive wow/flutter specs, meaning the general speed of the turntable is less steady. Vintage quartz-locked models are often an order of magnitude better. The Fluance and AT both have wow/flutter ratings of 0.2% WRMS, while a vintage quartz model will measure closer to 0.025% WRMS. Even non-quartz models like the Technics SL-D3 measured to about 0.03%. And vintage belt-drive models measured around 0.05% - 0.07%. I don't know why, but speed stability seems to have fallen by the wayside with many modern TT manufacturers.]]

When picking vintage, you also have the option of going for a P-mount arm or a half-inch mount arm. The P-mount is more convenient, the TTs themselves tend to be cheaper, and the cartridges are plug-and-play, but half-inch cartridge options are MUCH broader and the ceiling is higher in terms of quality. Personally, I recommend the half-inch mount. There aren't a ton of P-mount options these days.

[[EDIT: Actually, there are some very good high-end P-mount carts available to you if you really felt like buying a P-mount TT. See these two: ]]

Something like this, while not cosmetically in perfect shape (with a cracked dust cover), will outperform the Fluance and the AT soundly and is just over $100 including shipping:

Once you have a TT, you can plug it into the phono input of your receiver. If your receiver doesn't have a phono input, you'll have to add a phono preamp. This is one of the best budget options: