Reddit mentions: The best home thermostat accessories

I am not a professional either, but in my opinion it definitely sounds like a C-Wire issue. My house had 3 wires, Power, Heat, and Fan, so I plugged them in accordingly. This worked all summer, but as soon as winter came, the heat would turn on for about a minute, turn off for 30 seconds, turn back on for a minute, over and over until it got to the desired temperature. I quickly noticed that this of course was not appropriate behavior, which is when I learned that the C-Wire can be important. So I switched the Fan wire to the C-Wire at both my Nest and furnace, and everything works as expected now. I lost manual control of my fan, but I never used that feature anyways.

However you don't have a C-Wire or a Fan wire, so you either need to run a new wire bunch from your furnace to your thermostat so you can have a third wire, or buy something like the Venstar Add-A-Wire. Like I said though, I'm no expert, just my two cents.

It is concerning though that the Nest worked for years prior. I guess from a troubleshooting standpoint, do you have a dumb thermostat to hook up just to see if you can rule out the Nest as the culprit?

I use a CT30 and it's been great. Same functionality as the CT100 (note that the programming gets disabled once you connect with Z-Wave.)

They can also be had for <$30 on eBay, just watch for ZigBee models. They are sold under many brands: Radio Thermostat, 2Gig, Vivint & Filtrete (for the WiFi model). Great products with great support.

Honestly this printer (unlike many others) did work out of the box which was a plus. I have printed hundreds of things with only minor maintenance needed (cleaning the extruder, screw driver and an allan wrench solved this). I upgraded mine with the following:

• Glass bed (better heat conductivity, use a washable glue stick to help with adhesion)
  
  
• 100c Temp Controller(stock is only 50c)
  
  
• Multi Temp Switch (This allows you to change the extrusion temp for different types of filaments)
  
  Hope this helps!!!

It's easy to add a "C" wire

Do you have an unused wire at the nest?
If so that can be used as "C"(connect both ends on the wire to "C"...nest&furnace)

Or

Do you use the fan without heat or A/C?
If not you can rewire the "G" wire to be "C"(at nest & furnace)

video instructions: https://youtu.be/RQQAtmV2TQs & https://youtu.be/R039DH7HASg


Or

You can buy a Venstar Add-A-Wire and it will combine 2 wires onto one and free up a wire for "C" and let you maintain independent fan control.

Venstar instruction video: https://youtu.be/FjkPh1_I40A

Link to buy a venstar:
Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PLWT8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n7DyDbPV15NF0

I have had a very similar experience to you and the problem was solved by installing a C-wire between the furnace and Nest. If you do not have a spare fifth wire going between your thermostat and your furnace, you can:

• Run an extra wire
  
• Install an Add-A-Wire kit (I'm not sure how well these work but it has good reviews)
  
• Temporarily change your fan wire into a C wire (but you won't be able to manually turn your fan on)

It's hard to tell from the picture, but on the control panel side, you have the cable that splits out to have its red wire combined with that yellow wire on the wire nut.

That cable looks like your thermostat cable. I can't tell for certain, but is there a fifth, possible blue wire wrapped around the sheathing of the cable? If that isn't what I am seeing, is there a fifth cable in that bundle?

If so, you should be about to connect that wire to the C terminal on your control board. Back at the thermostat, dig out the hole the wires come through and see if you can't pull a little extra slack of the cable out. Depending on how your house is setup, you might even check where the cable runs in the attic and undo a staple or two if needed to create some slack. Strip the end of the fifth wire and there is your c connection.

If I'm seeing wrong and there isn't a fifth wire, your best bet is likely one of these


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IF3QXMC/

I have the wall plate and love it. It looks much better than the plastic one and matches the trim in the dining room.

EDIT: This is the one I bought, its square instead of rectangular

Pulling a new cable using the old cable is problematic in most homes if you don't have access to the cable at every point. Either it will be stapled, or it will be passing around too many tight bends with high friction.
There are some alternatives:

1. The new thermostat doesn't necessarily have to go in the same place as the old thermostat. Maybe there's an alternative location in your house that's a lot easier to pull a wire through to, and still reasonably placed for central temperature sensing.
   
2. You can buy no-C-wire add-on solutions like the Venstar units (e.g., https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC). They basically re-purpose one of the control lines as a C wire, and then use special signalling to create a virtual control line at a receiver that mounts behind the thermostat.
   
3. You can install an independent 24vac power supply (110v-to-24v ac transformer) closer to the thermostat. The sole purpose of the C wire is to provide 24vac power to the thermostat. You don't necessarily have to run that power all the way from the furnace/ac.

Honeywell CG510A Thermostat Guard, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EJA7VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ixmwCbVSDTJRN

Well if $16 is too much for you to get heat again, I’m sorry for your life situation then. hope things get better!

I've also had success with this kit, which allows you to "add" a wire. It saved me from pulling new wire or having to choose between a battery powered stat.

Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PLWT8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LgDwCb5DEXP0S

Buy the add-a-wire and you will then have a common wire. Easy to do, trust me.

Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Accessory for All 24 VAC Thermostats (4 to 5 Wires), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B9SRAbW6XM3TD

Yes, that zone board is a problem. Only a few thermostats work with it so best to swap it out. Note the second thermostat should not need O and B so you can replace that one as is.

Since it is winter season what you can do for now is disconnect the O and B at the main thermostat and then put a jumper wire between B and R at the SWZ board. That should let you install the Nests and get most of the fun.

​

I would recommend a Honeywell zone controller as they have a longer track record: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-HZ311-TrueZONE-Panel/dp/B001GLYC8S

​

It's this product.

It adds a 5th wire (common) to a 4 wire setup. Extremely simple install (just Google it and an official video will come up). I had a lot of doubts on its effectiveness after reading issues on the nest community, but its working great for me so far.

Yes that's almost certainly a 175F thermostat. You just need to find a replacement that is rated for 240V 10A and 175F and has that same mounting flange with the two screw holes, something like this.

Arduino would be an overkill, but more fun. There are thermal switches with adjustable temperature for mains, used to turn on and off attic fans, etc. like this

Well, there isn't anything wrong with the thermostat, the problem is that your heater is now too close to it. So what happens is, you set the thermostat for 70, the heater turns on and heats up the air near the thermostat, and then the thermostat turns off before the rest of the room gets warm.

Baseboard heaters should be located along outside walls, especially under windows, whenever possible. Thermostats should be on an interior wall and never anywhere close to the heater or any other heat source.

The way to fix it is either to relocate the heater back to its old location, or to move the thermostat. Depending on where the thermostat wiring goes would determine if this is an option, but it would require making holes in walls and I don't know if you could do that in a rental.

The other option is a wireless thermostat, something like this. They are pretty pricey, but they let you put the control unit in one location and the temperature sensor in another, and they communicate wirelessly.

Just something like this, Homedepot/lowes should have them as well

http://www.amazon.com/RFTH95-Ventilator-Replacement-Thermostat-Automatic/dp/B000OZWVYO

Set a temperature, leave your current switch on and it will turn on and off the fan as the temperature rises.

So i sort of went the “cheap” route for my outdoor system. Got something like this:

Lepy Amplifiers Audio Component Amplifier, Black (LP-2020A Class-D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FZKA28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HufwCbN9SN0FR

Then this:

4 Zone Stereo Speaker Selector Switch With Impedance Protection by AVX Audio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TBF90C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.vfwCbEFM605G

Then got 4 cheap outdoor speakers.

Then i mounted an echo dot on the wall in my covered patio, and put a thermostat cover over it.

It delivers decent sound, and all Alexa-enabled functionality is there. I wanna say all of it only cost like $250.

TayMac ZTC100 Low Profile Thermostat Cover, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LY8900/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3yfwCb8Y4CC0D

Dual Electronics LU43PB 4 inch 3-Way High Performance Indoor, Outdoor & Bookshelf Studio Monitor Speakers with Swivel Brackets & 100 Watts Peak Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00081NX5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xzfwCbAWJDGDQ

Again - very cheap, but we don’t spend enough time outside to need to spend $1,000+ on a system. This one works just fine. I remove the amp and echo dot in the winter.

EDIT: Alternatively you could get 2-3 small amps, then hook up echo inputs to them. I think they’re still $20 each on Amazon.

Simple solution; put a locking cover over the USB access.

Something like this is what I mean: https://www.amazon.com/Emerson-G10-Universal-Locking-Thermostat/dp/B008A506PQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=locking+switch+cover&qid=1565108566&s=gateway&sr=8-5

There are dozens of other options. I searched for "locking switch cover"

I think it'd be great to walk into an office and see all the network ports covered with these

I used this when I needed to do the same, worked great, don't think I had to cut anything, just rearrange the wiring. Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PLWT8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yzuyDb29BCSB7

I have thought about that and plan on doing it soon or getting this rounded plate instead. We have a ton of leftover paint from the renovations before purchase so this would be easy to do.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C8H4FHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ye5LDb7N6DNZP

If you can, stop and go open the panel on your hvac system (Attic/garage/Basement/crawlspace)

There you will find where those wires connect. take a picture, note it down.

There is a good chance that you could simply connect the C wire. There

Or use a c-wire bypass
https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC

or

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-THP9045A1023-Wiresaver-Wiring-Thermostat/dp/B0060ASWPE/

> Not every single stat has that capability maybe you're just too dumb to realize that he probably doesn't have a $500 Lennox iComfort stat or something fancy that can do that

no, not every thermostat can do it, but you claimed no thermostat can do this at all.

and you don't need a 500$ thermostat to get multiple stages. here's one at 135$ that can do it. and I'm sure I could find cheaper if I looked harder.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/White-Rodgers-Multi-Stage-5-1-1-or-5-2-Day-Programmable-Thermostat-1F85-0422/203736012

EDIT: OK, is 35$ cheap enough for you?

http://www.amazon.com/P374-1000FM-MULTI-STAGE-SINGLE-DAY-PROGRAMMABLE-THERMOSTAT/dp/B005VSXUUI/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415991759&sr=1-3&keywords=multi+stage

expanding on that contact Honeywell customer service. They have a proprietary system but they tend to build products that integrate well.

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-T100B1035-Thermostatic-Radiator-Actuator/dp/B00ARO6DSC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518706199&sr=8-4-fkmr0&keywords=steam+radiator+control+valve+smart

This is fugly, but should screw into the gang box. The ecobee3 can then mount within it.

A small bamboo cutting board might look better .....

To me it sounds like you need this: https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC

Also use this as a guide: https://youtu.be/R3pea5qtygo

Edit: Reason I say so is you should always use a common wire with Nest. You have to check your furnace terminal to see if it has a the right setup.

https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC


something like this, that mystically adds a wire perhaps?

Venstar Add a Wire works well if you have a 4 wire setup and want a C wire.

Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Accessory for All 24 VAC Thermostats (4 to 5 Wires), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hbbqDbMETV109

Also Nest has a feature called Airwave that is supposed to turn off your compressor and keep running the fan but only after temp has been achieved.

For many Microgrowers a step up could be a day/night thermostat attached to their fan.

You don’t have a common wire. It won’t work well. You can try this: Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PLWT8C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

oh hey, i know a lot about this because i just did it. I had suspected that all i needed was a solid state relay to isolate the 24V of the thermostat from the millivolt 750Ohm two wire system but i wanted someone to blame if i fried it. I bought this dingus https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0436-2-Wire-24VAC-Thermostats/dp/B00755BZZC and hooked it up to a standard honeywell wifi thermostat that i got for $4 with a utility company rebate and it worked like a charm. Turns out I was right, i cut the hear shrink on this think off and all it was was a PCB with a cheap mechanical relay and a triac.

I used one of these in my old house where the t-stat was too close to the woodstove. The receiver goes where your wired t-stat is and the main compenent is movable throughout the house. You could just stand it in one of your kids rooms. It was much cheaper when I bought mine 3-4 years ago, so search around:

http://www.amazon.com/Venstar-T1100RF-and-T1100REC-Thermostat/dp/B006R6BN02

He's talking about these: Nest Sensor Thermostat (Original Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGWXCNN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_INkYCb0A7NMHG

The EcoBee thermostats come with a few right in the box though

https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0436-2-Wire-24VAC-Thermostats/dp/B00755BZZC

http://www.hvacproblemsolver.com/floor-wall-furnace.asp

Venstar Add-A-Wire Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505259903&sr=8-1&keywords=Venstar+Add-A-Wire

Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Accessory for All 24 VAC Thermostats (4 to 5 Wires), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fPY2DbGJFZZCP

Running new wires isn't an option right now (old house; giant project for something that's more of a luxury than a necessity for us). But could I use this Venstar transformer so that my ecobee isn't trying to pull power through the furnace wiring? https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0436-2-Wire-24VAC-Thermostats/dp/B00755BZZC

Plastic box that could be used as a Molly Guard: https://www.amazon.com/Emerson-F29-0198-Universal-Locking-Thermostat/dp/B000PY7S6A