Reddit mentions: The best home thermostats & accessories

We found 549 Reddit comments discussing the best home thermostats & accessories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 160 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

15. Habistat Heat Mat Thermostat

Habistat Heat Mat Thermostat
Sentiment score: 3
Number of mentions: 4
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Top Reddit comments about Home Thermostats & Accessories:

u/gandi800 · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

You're main electrical draws are going to be your major appliances then lighting. Though there isn't really one thing you can do to see a huge decrease in power consumption doing a few things together would be noticeable.

  • Turning the temp of you're fridge/freezer up a degree or two always helps, obviously don't go to high or that defeats the purpose.

  • Keeping your blinds drawn, or getting semi transparent blinds, to block out the sun and keep your apartment cooler will help reduce your AC consumption by a lot, which is easily your largest draw during the summer.

  • Using the timer on your AC can actually see a huge improvement, set your AC to turn off about 1/2 way or 3/4 of the way through the night depending on how warm it is out side. If your AC doesn't have this feature you can always pick up something along these lines.

  • Obviously use CFL bulbs, people often complain about CFL bulbs but I think that's just out of misinformation. Unlike Incandescent bulbs there is a HUGE difference between each CFL brand and even bulbs within the same brand. If you're intrested I can go into further detail on this as there is probably a paragraph or two of information.

  • Look into residential rebate programs from your power provider for anything energy efficient. In order to receive a power generation license in the US your provider must have a program in place to reduce their costumers power consumption by 1% annually. They usually do this by offering rebates on energy efficient items. On CFL bulbs this can be a $1-$4 depending on the area, but on larger appliances, such as an energy efficient window ac (or for home owners furnaces and water heaters) the rebates can become pretty substantial.

  • Make sure all of your electronics actually turn off when they're off. For example if you hit the power button once on the Nintendo Wii it just hibernation mode which cuts the power consumption from 18watts to 10watts (not even a 50% reduction!) where as holding the power button turns the unit off and it will only draw 1 watt. You pretty much have to google your electronics to figure this one out. The other fun way (and is useful in other situations as well) is to pick up a Kill-o-watt. These nifty little guys will show you the power draw of whatever is plugged into it, I usually have mine plugged into my fridge or my power strip for my entertainment center. You could plug in your entertainment center power strip and reset the meter before you go to bed to see how much power everything is drawing when you're not using it, you will be surprised!

  • Finally the biggest and hardest one, behavior modification. The biggest waste of power in the world is power not being utilized. I once surveyed a site that had multiple buildings, one of which was vacant. The site didn't realize the lights were coming on in the vacant building because of a timer and had spent $15,000 a year for the last 4 years lighting up an empty building. Make sure to turn off the lights when you're done, take the milk out of the fridge then SHUT the fridge, turn off your electronics when you're are done (or at least hibernate them). These things are the hardest to do but once the habit is formed it won't be an issue.

    Off the top of my head that's what I got! If I think of other things I will add them! Also I apologize if some of my numbers are off, I've been out of the industry for a few years now.
u/humanasfck · 2 pointsr/BecomingTheIceman

I've been taking ice baths for a bit now using plastic water bottles as reuseable ice cubes while filling the tub daily. I have a nice jacuzzi tub available most of the time that is great, but lugging the ice bottles around (my tub is on the 2nd floor, and my freezer is on the 1st floor) and having to re-freeze them every day can be a PITA - as well as having to use new water each day instead of the ability to recycle. My next solution is a chest freezer, which I intend to set up as soon as I am able.

A few tips from my research:

  1. Get one big/wide enough for you to fit in comfortably up to and including your shoulders. Checking craiglist for your area is a good starting point for a discounted price. Depending on your size, 10-15 cu ft is a good range to consider.
  2. Some have a handy shelf inside that can act as a bench; if yours does, you may desire a foam seat pad to put on top to make it slightly softer.
  3. You can put it on a wall timer (that cycles on/off), then have it run for ~2-4 hours/day to keep the rough temp you desire, or a more accurate option is to get a Outlet Temp Controller (which is my choice method) that will auto on/off for you based on an exact preset water temperature. I enjnoy the idea of setting the tub to a custom temp, based on the length of time I intend to use it as well as the ability to increase cold levels of time.
  4. When you first fill it with water and want to cool it, either cycle it on/off over multiple days or put a BUNCH of ice in with it - as cooling a lot of water isn't the intended purpose and this will mitigate the strain on the motor cooling system.
  5. Seal up the inside seams with some silicone sealant (like stuff used for a bath tub), or line the inside with a pool liner for a thicker, reinforced watertight space.
  6. The cool temp will naturally keep the water cleaner, though using H2O2 is a good way to elongate the life of the water even more. You can get ~5% at most pharmacies, or ~30% at farm supply stores that requires much less.
u/CL-MotoTech · 3 pointsr/pittsburgh

My house is decently insulated and the heat works fairly well, that is with exception of my bedroom. The bedroom is upstairs but only has a single radiator for what is the largest single room in the house. It's comfortable until the coldest parts of the cycle, and with one thermostat that's downstairs it's never going to get better.

I use an electric heater with a remote thermostat that I bought on Amazon (link below) in my bedroom. This allows me to turn down the heat in the entire house at night and to save on gas while also meaning my bedroom isn't fucking freezing come 5am. It's a nice balance of heat and $. I use a cheap electric heater (link below), it's surprisingly quiet and will easily take the chill off the room.

All of that said, a programmable thermostat is also golden. Turn the heat down when you're at work and asleep. Also, insulate your windows (and make sure they are locked as it helps seal the frame) with plastic covering and cover door gaps with blankets or heavy door mats. All these little tricks add up.

A $200 bill is a big gas bill in my three bedroom house, but you'll have to give this a shot to decide if it saves money.

Thermostat for electric heater -

Electric heater -

u/JrClocker · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 will have to look around for this one):

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):

ZigBee Motion Sensors:

ZigBee Door Sensors:

ZigBee Leak Sensors:

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):

Z-Wave Thermostat:

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:

Z-Wave Deadbolt:

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Echo Dot will work just fine too):

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

  • Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  • The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains

    I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.

    For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over's the newest standard, and has much better range.

    In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).

    Two great application for the Leak Sensors:

  • Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  • Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)

    Great applications for door open/close sensors:

  • Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  • Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  • Notify me when my gun safe is opened

    Great Application for Motion Sensors

  • Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  • Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark

    The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).
u/renational · 13 pointsr/Frugal

here are tips i can add to the pile; get an accurate remote thermostat or humidistat for your window A/C units.

thermostats built into most A/C units are cheap, inaccurate and cycle your unit on/off unnecessarily.

what i do is plug an A/C rated appliance extension cord into this thermostat, then my A/C into the extension cord so the distance between the A/C and the thermostat is now across the room. this separate thermostat helps keep your A/C unit from cycling too much by moderating the temperature where you actually are in the room.

when you plug your A/C into this thermostate, set the A/C thermostate on lowest and fan on always. that way when the remote thermostate goes on the A/C will always be on Cool+Fan no matter what the temperature is.

some new A/C units have temperature sensing thermostat built into the remote control that you keep accross the room from the A/C unit window, so look for this feature when you are buying a new window unit as it should help you be more comfortable at higher ambient temperatures without your A/C cycling too much; (i do not own this A/C, i just link it as an example)


if you really want to save money on A/C, you could set your unit to go on/off based on HUMIDITY, not temperature. to do that you will need to buy (and apply the same way as the above a remote thermostat);

so when the room Humidity gets uncomfortably above 50%, only then will you let the A/C kick on more for it's dehumidification ability, then it's cooling power. once the air is lower in humidity you should be fine with nothing more than a box fan to circulate air against your skin for cooling.


if you live in a dry heat zone, combine a fan with a evaporative wick humidifier. as the water evaporates it takes heat energy out of the fan blown air and moderately cools the room. the added humidity will also make you feel more comfortable in the dry air. this approach is commonly known as a desert cooler. evaporative wicks can last all season if you use a capful of bacteriostatic solution in the water. to clean a wick, simply allow it to run dry for a few hours.

u/StickOnTattoos · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I was running this LG ACoutside of a 5x5x8 tent and it kept it plenty cool enough. It comes with some in window mounts and a exhaust duct. I had to do some clever rigging on the front in to some flexible ducting and ran that inside the tent to a diffuser. To control the temperature I ran a power cord to this thing and put that inside the tent. I never really found the best place to put it I just kind of had it hanging in the middle. I then had to run the AC's power cord inside the tent to connect to the temperature controller. It all worked very well when I needed it ! I do wish the temp controller had a 'range' you could put on it. It seemed like the AC was off and on a lot so theres prolly a better way to do that! Anyways good luck! oh and here is some PICTURES of how I ducted the cold air

u/Whitechocolatekrispi · 1 pointr/Hedgehog

Habistat Mat Stat Thermostat + Whatever heater you want.

Keeps them nice and happy. I have a heat-mat for my hedgehog (was the only thing the petstore had) and I keep it 1/3 under his house and 2/3 outside. It keeps the air nice and warm for him, and gives him a warm and cool spot to pick in his house. He hasn't once tried hibernating since I got it.

I am interested in getting a better ceramic heater emitter, so if anyone has any good recommendations I'm interested as well.

u/grooviegurl · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Programmable light switches are super handly for when you're out of town and want to make it look like you're home, and if you're forgetful about turning off lights.

Keypad deadbolt never worry about getting locked out. If someone is house sitting you can give them the code and then change it when you get home.

Energy saving outlets are great for things like charging cell phones or computers and keeping your power bill lower.

Wifi thermostat. I think Nest is overrated and expensive for what it is.

Electric crockpot-pressure cooker-rice cooker-yogurt maker. This thing does it all, seriously. Pressure cookers are awesome for getting things cooked quickly so you can buy cheaper groceries (dried beans vs. canned). Slow cookers are great for tough pieces of meat, roasts, soups... They're also great in summer as they don't heat up the whole kitchen. It being multi-purpose is a bonus for kitchen space.

u/Eccentrica_Gallumbit · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Sounds like something like this may do what you want, but I do not believe it will come cheap.

I currently have 2 thermostats in my home, one for AC/heat, and one for just heat. I swapped them both out for these wifi thermostats, which are programmable from a web interface or smartphone app. You can easily set the temperature from your phone, rather than having to visit each individual thermostat to change temperatures. This will likely be a much more cost effective solution to what you want to do.

If you must have smart thermostats, you could do the same with their smart thermostat versions or Ecobee as opposed to having a smart hub with remote sensors.

>Since the wiring for the heat and a/c are in two different places

I had the same situation in my house. What I wound up doing is running a new T-stat wire from the air handler in my attic down to the location of the thermostat for the heater. This allowed me to combine a separate AC and heat t-stat into a single t-stat.

u/diacetyltrap · 1 pointr/Greenhouses

Depends on how much you want to spend but a simple and easy route is a electric heater with a fan hooked to a thermostats like this

Check all the panels to see how well they are sealed and consider heat mates for under the pots to keep the roots from getting to cold. You can also put down normal mats to insulate the cold from the brick floor.

You might want to add a small second fan just to make sure you have a good circulation of air moving and don’t get any cold or hot spots.

u/twofedoras · 7 pointsr/homeautomation

It depends if you want to control everything from one place or don;t mind using a separate app for each thing. IF you want an all-in-one solution, the best bet is a Vera pro or VeraLite from MiCasaVerde. You don't have to re-invent the wheel as most of your wants will work right out of the box. What it doesn't natively do, it is almost guaranteed that someone has already done the modification and you can just grab their code.

For the lock I would go with a Yale or Schlage. Even Kwikset has zigbee and z-wave models. Honeywell makes a nice thermostat for cheap. There are several ways to integrate your doorbell as well.

Otherwise, Nest is great, Dropcam is awesome, There are a whole host of cool single-focus products out there.

u/wigenite · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I bought a house in March and had the intention of going all in on HA, but so far it hasn't exactly panned out. budgeting for a few good products as i go.

BUT, Here is what i started with so far. I've settled with silo'ed stuff so far. This is what i've done, others will probably have stronger recommendations though.

  1. a good wifi router.
  2. Power meter
  3. thermostat
  4. 4x wifi cameras
  5. entertainment

    Yes, that's 5 separate apps on my own Note 4

    Next on the list is a zwave hub and garage door controller.

u/CarlJH · 12 pointsr/Cooking

Sous Vide EQUIPMENT is WAY overrated. It has finally started to come down in price, but honestly, you can sous vide with a $30 temperature controller and a thrift store slow cooker (which, honestly, most people already have). I get excellent results with that exact setup.

I've seen people get great results with a Styrofoam ice chest, a thermometer, and tea kettle on the stove. They were able to maintain the temp within a few degrees by just checking once an hour.

u/gdeadfan · 1 pointr/Nest

I am not a professional either, but in my opinion it definitely sounds like a C-Wire issue. My house had 3 wires, Power, Heat, and Fan, so I plugged them in accordingly. This worked all summer, but as soon as winter came, the heat would turn on for about a minute, turn off for 30 seconds, turn back on for a minute, over and over until it got to the desired temperature. I quickly noticed that this of course was not appropriate behavior, which is when I learned that the C-Wire can be important. So I switched the Fan wire to the C-Wire at both my Nest and furnace, and everything works as expected now. I lost manual control of my fan, but I never used that feature anyways.

However you don't have a C-Wire or a Fan wire, so you either need to run a new wire bunch from your furnace to your thermostat so you can have a third wire, or buy something like the Venstar Add-A-Wire. Like I said though, I'm no expert, just my two cents.

It is concerning though that the Nest worked for years prior. I guess from a troubleshooting standpoint, do you have a dumb thermostat to hook up just to see if you can rule out the Nest as the culprit?

u/gtg465x2 · 1 pointr/smarthome

I hooked one of these up to an in wall AC unit in a townhome I rented and when I moved out 3 years later the AC unit was still fine despite the thousands of abrupt power cuts. I say do it. Even if it makes the compressor go out after 5 years instead of 10, you’ll have enjoyed those 5 years of your life in more comfort, and you can then buy an AC unit with smarts built in to replace it.

edit: I also have used smart switches and those work fine as well, but I found that AC units can be too much for some smart switches. My Wemo Insight handled every AC unit I tried fine, but my Eve smart plug would just shut off when my more powerful unit would turn on full blast.

u/toklas · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

This is kind of ghetto, but i use something like this. I run an extension cable into my fridge, then plug that into the extension cord (which is inside the fridge), then plug the fridge into that thing. Once the temp goes over what i set, it turns on the fridge until the temp is acceptible - so if you're looking to add a heating aspect to it i'd recommend another avenue. There are love controllers, PIDs, and some greenhouse stores have other types of temp controllers like the style i use but have an outlet for heat and an outlet for cooling.

It looks like a monster but it's functional... The black cable is the fridge's plug, which is plugged into the controller, which is plugged into the blue extension cord.

u/awesome357 · 1 pointr/DIY

This is very nicely done. I just wanted to mention though for anyone who might think this is beyond their ability, I've had good results with an analog crockpot and the following controller that the crockpot plugs into. It's a smaller chamber and there is no active circulation, but it gets the job done for some pretty awesome steaks. Still if able though, I would make one like this guys.

Sorry, I don't know how to link other than the full URL on mobile.

u/AlexTakeTwo · 1 pointr/amazonecho

After much research, the only one I found which I could be certain would work with both baseboard heaters and a Smart system like Alexa is the Mysa Smart Thermostat. It's a pretty simple interface, and a bit pricey especially when needing one for each room, but they're well reviewed and the vendor is responsive. I ended up prioritizing where I really needed a smart thermostat vs where I just needed a new thermostat, so my 2 Mysa thermostats are out for delivery today.

The one thing I can't tell is if they need a hub of some sort for the Alexa integration, but since I have an Echo Plus and am adding SmartThings I'll be covered for that. If you only have an Echo Dot and a hub is required, you'll need to add something like SmartThings or Wink.

u/sdrawkcabsemanympleh · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I already had a few pieces around, but here is my estimate:

  • Primary = 13
  • Stopper = 1.50
  • Tube = already had it. Can't imagine it's over 10
  • Themostat = 35 plus shipping. Amazon link .
  • Desk Fan = 19
  • Tall Boy = 3 for 3

    I actually had the wine cooler from the early 2000's. I worked backroom at Target, and it went on clearance, but they didn't move it to the floor. It kept dropping in price as it was on clearance longer and longer until it was $20. Grabbed it, and have used it as a minifridge since.

    A quick look at craigslist looks like you can pick on like mine up for 150-200. The glass front is nice. If you just want a minifride, looks like they're 50-100.
u/LRAD · 3 pointsr/everett

Keep doors to unused rooms closed. Electric is very efficient, it's just that it's usually more expensive than gas. Light bulbs double as 100 percent efficient heaters. Fans on low generate heat and, if spinning in the proper direction help circulate warm air from the ceiling. Depending on your gas heater, some thermoelectric fans are pretty helpful.

Agree with the CO monitors. I have a Nest monitor and it doubles as a nice nightlight.

If you have electric baseboards or forced air, they can be more efficiently controlled with a new thermostat. Chances are you have the shitty twist knob ones that heat the room to 90 then turn off until it's 50 again.


u/chrisbenson · 1 pointr/HomeKit

Thanks for this. In their FAQ, they say that the hardware already has everything for HomeKit compatibility, but they're just working on the software, which will get pushed out as an update in Q1 2017.

I was hoping for something more in the $40 price range. Just a simple thermometer with IFTTT or HomeKit support. But at least now I know there are options out there for $180. The next closest I found was Mother which is $300. For that price, I might as well get a better a/c unit with a built-in thermostat.

I also discovered this outlet thermostat for only $37. It doesn't connect to HomeKit or IFTTT but it does do exactly what I was wanting. The only problem is that the placement of my outlet is not the ideal place for a temperature probe, because it's buried under my bed where there's not much air flow. If only this had an extension for the temperature probe, so I could place it on the other side of the room, it could work great.

u/wbruce098 · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I got ahold of an old fridge on the cheap to set my fermenter in, and bought this temp controller. The idea is, you stuck the thermometer in your fridge, and plug the fridge into the device. and the device turns on when it’s too cool, off when it’s too hot. Keeps my fridge at pretty steady temps, and can be adjusted to fit some pretty wide ranges.

You don’t need to buy this one; there are plenty like it. But it’s cheap, easy, and effective.

u/BillyWaz · 1 pointr/ecobee

Thanks for the help guys!

Ecobee support got back to me. They let me know that the support rep that assisted me was wrong to tell me to do the connections that way. They found my call and let me know that they will be talking to that rep for future calls and training.

Basically the new rep let me know that all Honeywell thermostats have a "Wire Saver Module" (Looks like this:

He gave me the proper instructions to hook up the PEK and I am in business!

As mentioned from the above comments, the Green cable was moved to the G port.

I now have Cooling as an option! Woo!

Thanks all!

u/AmateurSparky · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

+1 for Honeywell, but no need for a "smart" thermostat for this. The only benefit you're missing out with a regular wifi is the "learning" capabilities of the smart unit. A simple wifi unit will be controllable from your phone, and are a fraction of the cost of the smart units.

These units are currently $90, but I've regularly seen them or similar units on sale for ~$80. Take a look at your local big box and see if they have any deals.

Another thing to check is to see if your utility providers offer any sort of rebates or incentives for smart or wifi thermostats.

Keep in mind that a lot of smart or wifi thermostats require a common wire, so if you have dont have one and don't have the extra wire you may need to run a new wire.

u/Apocalypse-Cow · 3 pointsr/iamveryculinary

Oh, for sure. It's all about the right tool for the right job. Slow cookers are better for braising type applications. Chicken breasts don't braise well.

> And also, just because I like being contrary, all you need to do sous vide is a styrofoam cooler, a thermometer and a zip top bag.

Speaking of right tool for the right job, this is like hammering a nail with a rock. It's possible, but so time and attention consuming, it's hardly worth it.

I have one of these which works great with my slow cooker. They don't work with the fancy programable slow cookers, but who needs one of those anyway. lol

u/payeco · 2 pointsr/homelab

I was going to suggest that first but didn't know if you wanted the cost of running a wall unit. A new, efficient little 5000btu unit shouldn't cost too much to run though.

Something like this though would allow you to set it to only run once it's reached a certain temperature and shut back off when your desired temperature is reached.

u/ahecht · 3 pointsr/boston

Since you're on National Grid, you can get a smart thermostat for free if you don't want to shell out the cash for a Nest. The Honeywell RTH6580WF is only $64 on Amazon, and Mass Save will give you a rebate of up to $100 (rebate form here).

Having a WiFi thermostat is great. You can program it to turn down automatically at night and when you're away at work, and when you're away you can monitor the temperature remotely or turn the thermostat down if you forgot to do so before you left. If you want to get really fancy, you can link the thermostat to and have it automatically adjust the thermostat based on the weather, whether your and your wife's phones are a certain distance from home, if you have a trip on your calendar, etc.

u/Balzac_Onyerchin · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

I don't know how much you want to do. I have never played with anything by Nest. I just wanted something that does well, and this model hasn't changed at all that I can tell since I bought one a few years ago. (meaning: tried and true like BIFL should be.)

It's wonderful. Only thing I wish it had was separate air circulate only programming/intervals; I think it runs circulation 1/3 of the time set to circ -- which helps a ton in a narrow two story townhouse. My bills dropped noticeably -- esp in the summer.

u/GearsAndSuch · 4 pointsr/PLC

Does it have to be 10 above ambient? If you set it to 80F would that be ok? (Pretty sure the average basement in the US is between 50 and 70F.

The cheapest option in that case is a simple thermostat and a fuse.

Something like this.


Hook up the heater instead of the fan, once the safe reaches the set temperature, it'll power off.


PLC is overthinking it. Use that for your holiday light show.

u/testingapril · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I ended up getting this. I found the same info you did, and almost did that, but the safety thing was HUGE for my wife. She was freaking out. And with a Lux outlet thermostat plus the UL rating of that heat mat, the safety factor is pretty high without adding dual thermostats and driving the cost way up. I'll post a pic eventually.

u/manlytittysprinkles · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Love it, cake to program via WiFi, and getting email alerts for certain environmental triggers is awesome. That and adjusting the thermostat remotely in the case of an unexpected schedule change is nice.

u/has_no_karma · 1 pointr/cigars

I have a couple, the Inkbird on my cheese cave and this chintzy chinesium one on my wineador. Both work just fine, but the Inkbird is definitely superior in build quality. Seeing as the price point isn't too different, I'd recommend the Inkbird.

u/tankfox · 1 pointr/budgetfood

Does your space have any rules against using a hotplate? I bought this guy for $11 for use in my cooking experimentation and it's been very solid. It doesn't get extremely hot but it's enough to boil water, make soup, fry eggs, bacon, anything else you want.

I paired it with a PID temperature controller and turned it into what amounts to a sous vide/crock pot

I've also heard electric water kettles spoken of very highly for people in your situation. Drastically safer than a hotplate it'll make boiling water in a jiffy; that's all you need for a quick condensed soup. Pour boiling water into a thermos with rolled oats or beans n rice and it'll be perfectly cooked in about an hour

u/arizona-lad · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Currently, the two most popular are the Nest and the Ecobee. Both are super capable units that offer a lot of flexibility to the homeowner.
If that is what you need, then you can't go wrong with either one.

As /u/rajan3001 has pointed out, the Tado has a lot to offer you. Take a look at their website:

For me, I went with the Honeywell:

It was either that or the Lyric:

u/biggggJay · 1 pointr/electricians

Thank you very much for the helpful comment. Do you know what the three wires represent in the picture I have posted?

I think this thermostat is the one I saw at Home Depot that I would be interested in getting:

Do you know if that will work with my three wire setup? I mean if I order it on amazon prime I can always return it for free if it doesn't work out.

u/-music_maker- · 1 pointr/Bonsai

Yeah, that's probably worth looking into for my tropicals at least. It's certainly cheap enough to experiment with.

This seems like a roughly equivalent product, as does this.

I'd just need to get a heater that comes on automatically when it's powered up, which is an easy enough thing to do. The more I think about it, the more I want to try it out.

I'd still like to build the monitoring solution, but something like this should be much more precise and reliable than what I'm currently doing.

I still think if I want to keep my temperate trees at 0C+/-3 I'd probably need something more customized.

u/skittles_rainbows · 1 pointr/autism

I've put these. in my class. I've also put these in my class. And if you want to go all out, get this.

In my class, I only have 1/2 of the lights on and it helps. A kid mentioned it being too bright so I took another light bulb out. Put lower watt bulbs in. Also, go to Home Depot and they have displays of different brightness of light bulbs. They have some soft white light bulbs that may help. But go to their display and check out the different light bulbs. The softer light may help.

u/surrealistone · 1 pointr/axolotls

We have an aquarium fan hooked up to a thermostat and it works wonderfully at keeping the Temps in whatever range I specify. We have it at 61-64°.

LONDAFISH Aquarium Chillers Aquarium Fan Fish Tank Cooling Fan Marine 2 Fan

WILLHI WH1436A Temperature...

u/teebob21 · 3 pointsr/phoenix

This works best if you have great insulation and double-pane windows. We don' supercooling just made us cold while it ran, hot while it didn't, and jacked a "normal" $300/mo APS bill to $450+.

That was three years ago. I bought a window mount swamp cooler ( plus a plugin thermostat (, plumbed it with black 1/4" irrigation tubing, and haven't looked back since. We now only run the AC the last two weeks of July and all of August. 11/10 with rice, highly recommend.

u/pahool · 1 pointr/GifRecipes

I use a crock pot plugged into one of these:

Probably not as good as a professional sous vide, but much cheaper and it works great for me. There is no agitator, but I find it works pretty well without it if I fill it full of water and am not cramming the crockpot full of bags of meat. I think the natural thermal currents do a good enough job of keeping the temperature even throughout. Plus you can agitate every so often manually.

u/jam905 · 2 pointsr/ecobee

No doubt your remark was meant in jest, but to set the story straight, the ecobee3 got its name because it was the third hardware model of thermostat released by ecobee (the ecobee Smart Si and EMS Si were more or less identical, with one targeting home owners and the other targeting commercial establishments). Here's a complete list of their thermostats:

u/TheObjectified · 2 pointsr/leopardgeckos

Sorry. I have actually have a digital temp controller that switches a circuit on and off based on low and high settings. I hooked it up tonight and set low at 90 and high at 90.7. When it hits 90.7 it shuts off and seems to float up to 91.4 then starts cooling. Circuit (uth) turns back on at 90 but floats to about 89 before it starts warming. So basically I have it set to always be between 89 and 91.4. Thank you for your help.

Edit: this is the control. Overkill for this application but I already had it laying around from a different project.

WILLHI WH1436A Temperature Controller 110V Digital Thermostat Switch Sous Vide Controller NTC 10K Sensor Improved Version

u/rnelsonee · 3 pointsr/personalfinance

Numbers sound spot on - I'm in MD and accidentally set my thermostat to a permanent hold of 68 for most of the month for the previous bill and paid $209.

Drop the temp setting, especially at night and during the day when you're not there. A simple programmable thermostat will pay for itself in a year and are simple DIY installs. I recommend a weekday/weekend one - set it up once and you're good. You can even get fancy and get a Wi-Fi one like Nest for $200 - they'll still save you money.

It sucks at first (I used to be a 70 degree man myself) but you get used to it. Right now I have a blanket wrapped around me, and my wool socks + slippers on. If the blanket's not on me, I'm often sporting a comfy-ass robe that has the bonus effect of making me feel like a Jedi. But hey, we never pay more than $150 in the winter.

u/jm2911 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Just installed this one last month. I have loved it. The app for wireless control is simple and works well. The geofencing feature is also nice.

Honeywell RCHT8610WF2006 Lyric T5 Wi-Fi Smart 7 Day Programmable Touchscreen Thermostat with Geofencing, Works with Apple Home kit

u/shroomscout · 1 pointr/shrooms

Oops, definitely more expensive than I remember.

  1. Here’s the temp-controller outlet: WILLHI WH1436A Temperature Controller 110V Digital Thermostat Switch Sous Vide Controller NTC 10K Sensor Improved Version

    Here’s the Heater (definitely recommend!): AmazonBasics 500-Watt Ceramic Small Space Personal Mini Heater - Black

  2. I’m heating everything in a small closet. It’s been running for an hour, consistently holding temperature so far with little heater use! This could be a great setup.

    I think this could be incredible for a grow-tent.

    I already had the heater as a small-room heater, which was why I thought it was only $30 🤦🏽‍♂️
u/DrkMith · 5 pointsr/Nest

It's easy to add a "C" wire

Do you have an unused wire at the nest?
If so that can be used as "C"(connect both ends on the wire to "C"...nest&furnace)


Do you use the fan without heat or A/C?
If not you can rewire the "G" wire to be "C"(at nest & furnace)

video instructions: &


You can buy a Venstar Add-A-Wire and it will combine 2 wires onto one and free up a wire for "C" and let you maintain independent fan control.

Venstar instruction video:

Link to buy a venstar:
Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit

u/Thomcat316 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

This, yes.

Looked up bug-kill temps, and what you need is 133°F in the center of the wood for 30 minutes. Make it two hours per inch, I'm guessing.

Make a box out of polyiso board and foil tape, and make sure there is good air circulation. A hair dryer might work for circulation and for heat. Control thermostats are pretty cheap.

u/Buffalo__Buffalo · 1 pointr/EatCheapAndHealthy

You could do scrambled eggs and reasonably thin frittata. Poaching eggs should be pretty easy if you've got a kettle as well.

If you buy this temperature controller unit (shop around though, you should be able to get a better price if you look) then you can turn your rice cooker into a sous vide cooker, all you need is ziplock bags.

u/letsgoflyers81 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I have this Honeywell thermostat. It's a bit more expensive than the cheap Z-Wave ones, but it has a proper cloud service and I've been happy with it. I bought it when I had central AC and heating, but my house now only has hot water baseboard heat and no central AC. It works great for the heat.

u/bandit2443 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Like you, I am trying to avoid cloud-based services at all cost. I want my house to continue to function even if the internet connection goes down for some reason.

I've also got central Heat/AC with a Gas furnace and I just picked up Honeywell's Zwave Thermostat. Its quite nice although does have some quirks when integrated with Home-Assistant. I don't know how it compares with other zwave thermostats but I'm happy with it. Scheduling can be done through home-assistant or at the thermostat directly. Currently, I'm using the built in scheduling on the thermostat but it seems like a schedule through home-assistant is the way to go due to one of the aforementioned quirks.

I haven't set up any remote sensors temperature, but it should be fairly straightforward to have Home-Assistant control the thermostat based on the temperature of individual rooms or on an average among all sensors.

I also found NMap presence detection to be spotty. Recently I configured Owntracks with private MQTT and haven't looked back. Its light-years ahead of the NMap detection.

I personally am not concerned with the multi-sensors as I am not very interested in temperature. I do use motion sensors heavily to trigger events in Home-Assistant. If you wanted both, i'd go with the multi-sensors.

u/ElectricRebel · 1 pointr/energy

$1000 buys a lot of hardware these days, so throwing that large of a number around is a bit silly. In fact, here is something similar that already is for sale for $215 and it is even fancier than I described above (smartphone interface, reporting stats, etc.).

And I agree that home networking protocols are probably simpler (and then could be connected via a dongle or some other peripheral to a PC). Another simple way to make this work could be to just have a MicroSD card approach: plug it into a card reader and run a program to create the schedule and then plug the card into the wall unit. There are many ways to accomplish the goal of easier programming while still keeping simple and low power hardware. But there is a real need for someone to figure this out: old people really suck at using programmable thermostats. Any time there is a severe user interface problem like that, there is an opening for a good solution.

You were right about one thing: the cheapest programmable thermostats on Amazon run for about $20, so there is an order of magnitude difference here. Although there are plenty of mid-level models that run for $60-70 and the high end ones (e.g. this Honeywell unit with a nice LCD interface) run for $130.

Finally, I'm betting that we will see this technology deployed anyways (and granted, it will probably suck at first, like all new things do) for the purposes of peak load management. I'm personally a pro-nuke cornucopian myself, but I still see the long term advantages of setting up a smart grid to reduce strain on the grid during the summer. The way to get consumers on board is to offer discounts for programming your load to run when the grid server says that system load is lower.

u/DMUSER · 2 pointsr/DIY

Oh I didn't realize it plugs in
You want this or something like it. Just plug that into your outlet, plug your wireless switch into that. It will make it so that the switch will not operate or get power until the temperature drops to whatever value you enter.

Hopefully that works for you as it will be entirely plug and play and take less than 5 minutes to set up.

u/baudfather · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Depends what kind of hub you have. If you don't have z-wave, you're options are pretty limited. Easiest and safest IMO would be a zwave baseboard thermostat. Something like this, depending on size of heaters, etc:


u/CBD_Sasquatch · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

Put a thermostat outlet switch like this in your tent and plug the AC unit into it.

Make sure whatever sort of thermostat switch you use is able to handle the wattage of your AC unit.

Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat

Edit: this link is just an example. Not something I have personally used. The next comment links to what looks like a better unit.

u/New-found-Girth · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

These are UK links (don't know where you are):

Dehumidifier bag:


The thermostat you need depends on your heat mat size but that one is 100w which should be plenty.

Make sure the heatmat is stuck down. Electrical tape is good as it's safe both for heat and for your gecko.

u/dylanweber · 1 pointr/Nest

I have had a very similar experience to you and the problem was solved by installing a C-wire between the furnace and Nest. If you do not have a spare fifth wire going between your thermostat and your furnace, you can:

  • Run an extra wire
  • Install an Add-A-Wire kit (I'm not sure how well these work but it has good reviews)
  • Temporarily change your fan wire into a C wire (but you won't be able to manually turn your fan on)
u/NeatHedgehog · 2 pointsr/hermitcrabs

Put the heat mats on a thermostat to avoid the temperature running away on you, or getting too cold if you leave them unplugged.

Pet store thermostats tend to be flaky in my experience. I've had decent luck with units WILLHI and Inkbird. Something like this WILLHI would probably work just fine for you; it has a waterproof and easily replaceable temperature probe you can snake into the tank and leave the control box out on your desk (or wherever) safe from the high humidity in the tank.

u/ganjananda · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Thanks, man. The fan is a Lasko 4000 Air-Stik Ultra-Slim Oscillating Fan. It's perfect for a micro grow.

My tent sits in near-outdoor conditions, so I have to keep temps up. The smaller device is a Lasko MyHeat Personal Ceramic Heater controlled by a Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat. It pushes enough heat to keep temps as high as ambient +30.

u/RandomUser0137 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I use these z-wave thermostat's for my electric baseboards...I quite like them as they are easy to set up and configure. I use a pi running HA and a z-stick.

Now if I can only figure out how to get the "outside temperature" feature to work with a virtual temperature sensor....

u/TheyCallMeSuperChunk · 5 pointsr/AskCulinary

Anything to hold the temperature should work. I should say, there are even easier methods to ghetto-rig a sous-vide.

Also, if you're interested in sous-vide at all (which IMHO you should be, it's amazing), and you're on a limited budget, I've heard that this guy gives great results when you combine it with a cheap manual crock-pot.

u/ChefJoe98136 · 2 pointsr/Seattle

Looks interesting. I am particularly amazed with the $36 thermostat-based outlet control module that amazon recommended at the same time as looking at the AirKing.

u/blackjesus75 · 1 pointr/electricians

Yes, however you’ll have to run wire big enough to run both heaters to the thermostat. Then you can run two sets of smaller wire from the Tstat over to each heater. If easy heater had a draw of 12 amps you’d need a supply wire to the Tstat to handle 24 amps for example. Then you’d need #10 wire. This is the Tstat I used for mine. You just land line side and load side and you’re good to go.

Heater I linked earlier has a built in Tstat I think.

u/Gullex · 3 pointsr/homestead

Different species like different temperatures. Blue oysters do well in the 55-65 F, pink oysters are a tropical species so they like it considerably warmer. It should be a relatively stable temperature. You could get a space heater and hook it up to a thermostat controller.

u/shelzmike · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

In all my 15 years owning current home, I have never ran across anyone who has Ceil Heat! I have it in every room in my house. 1 220v area for the main room and 110s in all the smaller rooms.

All my 110s work fine; however, my 220v no longer works and is not safe (technically). Totally my fault too. I was trying to install a ceiling fan and thought i had a spot for the box where I would miss the elements but alas I was off and cut one element wore totally and nicked another one. It is not safe because the elements could arc if close enough and cause a fire, at least that is what o have read and it makes sense.

Here are my 3 suggestions.

1.) Get an IR thermometer with a laser point. Take a measurement in different parts of the ceiling and make a note of it. Turn the ceiling heat on all the way up, then wait. Repeat the temp test at 30 and 1 hour in the same spots. This will tell you if it is working at all.

2.) You can use a Honeywell thermostat used for baseboard heating and replace the existing one to ensure it's not the thermostat for sure. This one is the one I used : Honeywell Manual 4 Wire Premium Baseboard/Line Volt Thermostat(YCT410B1000/U)

(I actually have a couple of the original Ceil Heat thermostats I found at a Habitat store awhile back that I might be willing to come off of if you like the Old School look.

3.) If your ceiling heat turns out to no longer be working, I'd suggest 2 options. Baseboard heating or, what I did, a mini-split system. Having ceiling heat replaced is going to be $$$ and a huge mess and that's only IF you can find someone that knows anything about it.

Good luck.

u/1new_username · 2 pointsr/HVAC

It's hard to tell from the picture, but on the control panel side, you have the cable that splits out to have its red wire combined with that yellow wire on the wire nut.

That cable looks like your thermostat cable. I can't tell for certain, but is there a fifth, possible blue wire wrapped around the sheathing of the cable? If that isn't what I am seeing, is there a fifth cable in that bundle?

If so, you should be about to connect that wire to the C terminal on your control board. Back at the thermostat, dig out the hole the wires come through and see if you can't pull a little extra slack of the cable out. Depending on how your house is setup, you might even check where the cable runs in the attic and undo a staple or two if needed to create some slack. Strip the end of the fifth wire and there is your c connection.

If I'm seeing wrong and there isn't a fifth wire, your best bet is likely one of these

u/iceph03nix · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Like a thermostat cover?

Double check your dimensions based on your AP but I'd think something like that would work.

However, I've taken the APs apart, and if they're well mounted they'll likely hold up to most hits from most objects.

u/bilbravo · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I went to my amazon account and checked and I actually have this one, which is $99 and that's what I paid. They are very similar, but the one OP posted has some other features like lockout and holiday (it's a commercial unit, mine is residential/consumer grade).

u/todd_ted · 1 pointr/Vermontijuana

For heat a space heater on a thermostat outlet when the lights are off and possibly also while on. For cooling while lights are on you can run a fan on a thermostat outlet. I have used this one for these purposes in the past. You definitely want a tent or to create a confined growing space so that the environment is more controllable. If you have a 24 hour temp and humidity monitor, like this, that lets you know what’s going on when you are not looking.

u/johnmudd · 1 pointr/gadgets

Check Ecobee. I chose this model. I saved money and love it.

u/reddit455 · 1 pointr/Albuquerque

so you use a light switch with a little knob for fan speed?

get something smarter


turns itself on/off at a certain time


they're $25 bucks.

Nashone Wireless Temperature Controller,Electric Thermostat with Remote Control Built in Temp Sensor 3 Prong Plug LCD Display Heating Cooling Mode


BTW - swamp coolers are little more than fans and a pump for the water.

they don't use juice like AC.


hang a wet sheet or towel and point a desk fan at it, you'll get some cooling.

u/DPAmes1 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Pulling a new cable using the old cable is problematic in most homes if you don't have access to the cable at every point. Either it will be stapled, or it will be passing around too many tight bends with high friction.
There are some alternatives:

  1. The new thermostat doesn't necessarily have to go in the same place as the old thermostat. Maybe there's an alternative location in your house that's a lot easier to pull a wire through to, and still reasonably placed for central temperature sensing.
  2. You can buy no-C-wire add-on solutions like the Venstar units (e.g., They basically re-purpose one of the control lines as a C wire, and then use special signalling to create a virtual control line at a receiver that mounts behind the thermostat.
  3. You can install an independent 24vac power supply (110v-to-24v ac transformer) closer to the thermostat. The sole purpose of the C wire is to provide 24vac power to the thermostat. You don't necessarily have to run that power all the way from the furnace/ac.
u/brokenpipe · 2 pointsr/Nest

Sadly you have a direct voltage / line voltage setup (240V). You'd insta-fry your Nest with this.


The best you can get (I've been in your situation before) are these:


Which still make a huge difference, cost savings wise, to what you have.

u/Unfairbeef · 4 pointsr/sousvide

You can use this device with just about any slow cooker or turkey roaster. It is similar to the Codlo others have linked here but way cheaper. I have never used the Codlo to know if it is worth it but the Willhi controller has been running strong for many uses.

u/2old2care · 3 pointsr/diyelectronics

Either bulbs or ceramic heaters should work just about the same. Best to use a thermostat like this to control the temperature.

u/raselldazzle · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I've also had success with this kit, which allows you to "add" a wire. It saved me from pulling new wire or having to choose between a battery powered stat.

Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit

u/sevennotrump · 1 pointr/homeautomation

This sonoff TH16 might be a start.

And here is a smart thermostat for baseboard heaters.

As far as managing & graphing the operation, Homeassistant is free and pretty simple to use.

u/Monkey_Tennis · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I'm looking to do this too, and it looks like the Stelpro KI STZW402WB+ is the way to go as /u/jryanishere mentioned.

It's worth noting, that hooking a Nest up via a relay is NOT supported. Nest have taken down their community forum that had a good guide on how to do it. There are others on the web, but I'd steer clear.

u/sanka · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I have a shelf in my basement that I put a door on. I covered the walls of it in styrafoam and added an outlet thermostat. To this I plugged in a heater.

Keeps the wort fermenting at just the right temp all winter. Summertime is a crapshoot, but my basement usually stays under 70 even without AC. With AC it works just like the winter since ambient is about 65.

Mine holds two fermenting buckets at a time. I'm sure you could make a simple wooden box and do the same thing.

u/MentallyDisturbed99 · 3 pointsr/Nest

Buy the add-a-wire and you will then have a common wire. Easy to do, trust me.

Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Accessory for All 24 VAC Thermostats (4 to 5 Wires), White

u/sircadvan81 · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Might i suggest something like this Honeywell CG511A1000 Medium Inner Shelf to Prevent Tampering Thermostat Guard, White cheap effective and practical for your issue...

Edit: Might be too small after thinking about it but probably could make something that would fit the switch

u/Numanoid101 · 1 pointr/Nest

It's this product.

It adds a 5th wire (common) to a 4 wire setup. Extremely simple install (just Google it and an official video will come up). I had a lot of doubts on its effectiveness after reading issues on the nest community, but its working great for me so far.

u/s_i_m_s · 1 pointr/amazonecho

That actually has too few buttons dedicated function buttons would be prefered this is pretty much exactly what I wan't but it doesn't have the circulating fan option.

u/slappy30 · 1 pointr/HVAC

Thanks. A electrician friend checked it out and looks like 240v pulling about 13 amps. Wired up with 2 wires currently, but he recommended this control and to adjust the way it's wired right now.

u/ThirdLap · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Don't know about most popular, but I've had a couple of CT50s in my house for the last few years and could not be happier. Cheap, great web interface, and gets the job done. I paid $150 total for the two of 'em. Not as pretty as the Nest, but not $250 (x2) either!

u/thebusinessfactory · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Use a

Like this

Plug your fan in, when it hits a certain temp it will turn on or off depending on the settings.

u/AStuf · 2 pointsr/Nest

You still have a few options before running a new cable.

  1. First and easiest is to use the green wire as C/Common (move at both ends) and then install a jumper between Y and G at the attic air handler. You would lose independent control of the fan and the "cool to dry" feature but is an okay trade off for most people. It is good to try first anyway to prove that it is indeed a power issue with the wires.
  2. Install a resistor at the air handler between C and Y. This helps Nest do its power stealing to charge the battery.
  3. Install a Venstar add-a-wire kit.
u/Kairus00 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I have the Honeywell RTH9580WF and it works with my Echo. It also works with SmartThings, but I rarely use SmartThings to control it. Honeywell's app works well, although it's a bit dated looking.

As far as fireplace switches go, there have been a few threads on this subreddit about it, I recommend searching for them.

u/chrisbrl88 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

The problem here is that you're trying to apply a solution that will end up causing more problems than it will solve. You're talking about staple-up radiant heat in a home with a thick decking subfloor (much thicker than the 3/4 OSB or plywood that's standard in more modern homes) that's below very old softwood floors that are likely to warp on you if you go through with your plan. On top of that, you're gonna be looking at running a 240v breaker for it (assuming your home's electrical can handle another breaker and the extra load, if it's even been upgraded to breakers from old Edison fuses and the meter has been upgraded from the old 60A - I see you stated elsewhere that the electrical hasn't been updated). You're talking a four, possibly five figure investment versus $200 in ductwork and an additional vent, or a simple space heater and a plug-in thermostat.

To realistically do this the right way, you'd need to first update all the electrical, pull up the flooring, install an appropriate system (hot water/glycol would be a better choice than resistive), and replace and refinish the floors.

My grandpa's house is 100 years old. I'm well aware of what happens when you start tearing into and modifying homes that old: nothing good. TBH, this should be near the bottom of the "honey do" list.

u/nicodemus26 · 2 pointsr/Frugal

Due to the rules of house power outlets all space heaters are created pretty much equal as far as heat output. I have this little guy and quite like it.

I also got one of these to plug it in to so that it would have my room warm for me when I got home from work, but not waste power all day or while I sleep.

u/computerguy0-0 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

For electric baseboards:

For the main oil heating zones, I would honestly do a few more z-wave thermostats then pull it all together with your home automation software of choice (Home Assistant, HomeSeer, Smart Things, Wink, etc...)

Depending on what was used for floor heating, you may not be able to do much with this besides wire something for on/off.

u/bacon_flavored · 1 pointr/microgrowery

So I could plug my humidifier into this

Then plug a portable AC unit into this

And I should be good to go. Thank you for the suggestion!

u/dougolupski · 2 pointsr/analog

Color C-41 and E-6 are actually pretty easy when you get over the film sweats. The biggest problem to solve is how to get the chems to temperature and keep them there. Before I upgraded my system I used a crockpot and a home brewing temp controller.

Temp Control


Set the temp controller plug your crockpot into that and fill with water. The temp controller will turn the pot on and off to keep the chems with a degree or so.

u/nmsmoke · 3 pointsr/boston

Simple programmable thermostats like this one ($22) are cheap and pretty easy to install. National Grid also has rebate programs for some kinds of thermostats.

These let you program your heat to be warmer on a timer, but to automatically set it cooler (like 60 instead of 69ºF) during the day when you're not home, and at night when you're sleeping. Then you don't have to remember,

Ask your landlord if they'd be amenable to you getting one, or putting one in for you.

u/how_do_i_change_this · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If your relationship is anything like mine and my wife's, you're the one headed downstairs at night when she's cold and the thermostat needs adjusted. Much easier to adjust on phone (or via GH/Echo)

And you can just do the passive-aggressive thing and install this over it and set the schedule from your phone:

u/mattmentecky · 2 pointsr/pittsburgh

Without seeing your set up I don't know if my suggestion will work but either point your landlord in this direction or just order one yourself:

Pretty simple and straightforward. I use that exact model for a bread proofing box I made out of it, a cooler, and a light bulb.

u/revrobbcat · 1 pointr/sousvide

I think you are on the right track. I use this with a cheap submersible aquarium pump and a turkey roaster and it works perfectly. The idea should be the same.

u/thatdudeyouknow · 0 pointsr/homeowners

this one is great. allows for schedules and quick changes for weather shifts. You can also deal with it from your phone so if it is too
hot or cold you can change it on your way home.

u/fosteraa · 5 pointsr/food

I just got one of these for $27. Worked great.

u/quantonos · 2 pointsr/HVAC

Sounds like you are looking for a stat like this

u/Jonkampo52 · 2 pointsr/sousvide

This is what I use. Plug controller into wall. Crock pot into controller and temp sensor into water.

Generally I set temp on controller. Set crock pot to high. When it gets close to temp I switch to warm add food and wrap in blanket. Doesn't very to much temp wise.

u/arguablytrue · 1 pointr/homeowners

Oh god this is giving me PTSD from the house I bought last year.

It had one of those Honeywell programmable thermostats and I was shivering at 2am poking at it with a flashlight trying to figure it out. Programming it was a pain in the ass. Changing the temp? I was never sure if I was reprogramming it or temp changing the setting. I ripped it out day 2 and put in a Nest. That's super clear.

In the basement I put in a round mechanical thermostat to keep the pipes from freezing in winter and that's it. No frills. Just a spring.

If I were you, unless you want a smart one, I'd get one of the old round ones and call it a day. If you want a smart one, get the cheap Nest.

u/NOT_EPONYMOUS · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I think the Honeywell Z-Wave thermostat would work. The thermostat is locked by default I think.

Also, since the thermostat has a temperature sensor in it, you can either program the Vera to switch it off if the Nest is on, or just allow it to come on if the temperature is too low like a normal thermostat.

the model I use for my steam system (which supports a multitude of common wiring types) is the Honeywell YTH8320ZW1007/U.

Available here for $135

u/Green_man420 · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

Here is my outdoor setup. I no longer have a bucket, so this is what i use in my box now.

If temp falls below 62- then my heater kicks on and goes til about 82

At 78 my fan turns on and i have is set lower to be less loud. So the heater will turn off while the fan is on exchanging my air out. Once its below 78 the fan turns off and we wait til the heater kicks on again. But the HPS puts off enough to keep it warm usually

u/optimatez · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Im actually still using 2008 on my host, and 2012 on the VM's. I havent gotten around to upgrading the host, but im hoping to do it soon.

u/Anydudewilltellyou · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

/u/tainttrauma, read his post again. He has electric baseboards. Those have line voltage thermostats. You've recommended low voltage units.

Yea, that's not gonna' work for him.

There aren't a whole lot of options for smart line voltage units. Especially if the baseboards have a fan incorporated into them.

This one MIGHT work. Need to see if it is compatible with O.P.'s units:

u/campbeln · 134 pointsr/technology

I've been looking at internet-enabled home devices (think Nest) and Cloud-anything has been a deal breaker for me EVERYTIME! Hell, the first-gen Nest's had the same issue - "Thanks for supporting us at the beginning, now fuck you! ;)"

I've managed to find some really nice hardware for my Thermostat, Sprinkler Controller (though I bought the 12-station controller) as well as hackable Wifi 120v (or 240v) light and switch controllers for $5-8 each!! And I totally forgot about my OpenGarage!

Each of these have open "REST" APIs that accept LAN requests to their local webserver (e.g. so they are wide-open to program against.

u/Donttrhrowtreesaway · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

I want one of these:

Hooked up to one of these:

The thermostat would have to be mounted inside the freezer to keep internal temperature at whatever is ideal for the plants. Most upright freezers even come with a lock on the door!

u/MrBigThick · 1 pointr/cigars

Yes, its just a regular fridge connected to relay that cuts power once the desired temperature has been achieved.

The cigars in the boxes I toss a boveda 69%rh. I usually have to take a couple sticks out of a new box, depending on its design, to allow space for the boveda pack.

I normally check the boxes for a decent seal before tossing them in the fridge. Reason being the RH does dip down to about 40-50rh once the fridge turns on. I haven't had any issues with any of the cigars thus far.

The thermostat I use is
WILLHI WH1436A Temperature Controller 110V.

u/EmeraldAlkaline · 1 pointr/ReefTank

Okay thank you. Ill look into the cobalt easy therm. Also is this what youre referring to for a temperature controller?

u/monicakmtx · 1 pointr/googlehome

Cheapest isn't usually a good option in the long run. In this case it more than likely will be hard to set up/connect, keep a connection, not have options that you'd probably want, good chance it won't operate as flawlessly as one you'd spend a bit more for and tech support may be non-existent. Cheap parts, cheaply put together...more trouble than it's worth. Honeywell is old as dirt. They're reliable. Tech support is 50/50. They make a dependable thermostat. I could have bought any wifi thermostat I wanted and chose the Honeywell TH9320WF because it did everything I wanted (and I could make the screen any color ;) ). It was $156 at the time on Amazon. Honeywell makes less spendy ones tho. It will have the Honeywell dependability but just the basics. $82/Amazon.
4 star rating

u/masteroffm · 1 pointr/smarthome

I think that would require rewiring all the way back to the breaker. This image from the Amazon page shows they specifically only support two pole,0,220,220_PT0_SX220_V1___.png .

This one looks to be single pole...

u/RESERVA42 · 1 pointr/energy

I don't go as extreme, but at night in the winter, I use cheap electric oil radiators with this thermostat in our bedrooms. In AZ, we have an electric heat pump for heating. The small electric heaters are less efficient, but with them I'm not heating the whole house.

u/Zackhood · 2 pointsr/HVAC

Ahh ok. Well you have two options. Pull new wire (18 gauge 5 or higher # of wires) or buy an add a wire unit, which coincidentally matches the settings on your stat.
Honeywell THP9045A1023 Wiresaver Wiring Module for Thermostat

u/ExtremeHobo · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Yes you can. This one is rock solid and $78.

Honeywell Home Wi-Fi 7-Day Programmable Thermostat (RTH6580WF), Requires C Wire, Works with Alexa

u/SikerimSeni · 0 pointsr/homeautomation

I use this

It's not very smart, but it's smart enough... basically you can set up 4 time/temperature combinations for weekdays and separate 4 time/temperature combinations for weekends.

u/AManAPlanACanalErie · 1 pointr/AskCulinary

One of these, one of these, and one of these. Don't have any pictures, but its a pretty simple set up. You set the temp you want it at, set the window to .1 or .2 degrees. Don't plug the heater into the controller's outlet unless its underwater, otherwise you blow the fuse. Probably a good idea to start with hot tap water and add some boiling water from the kettle. The heater will keep the water up to temp, no problem, but it can take a while to raise the temp from room temp. I always make sure nothing is going to touch the heater in the water. I'm not sure, but it could probably melt a bag. I have a length of high-themp CPVC pipe that I put over the pot or cambro, and use binder clips to suspend the heater and sensor.

u/DoctorJeremyDunks · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I've been using this with smartthings for about 4 years and it's been pretty reliable.

u/decwakeboarder · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I've had a great experience with Radio Thermostat. I have 2x CT50s that I bought used for ~$60/ea. Just make sure you get one with the wifi module. They run a web service for control & logging but the android app communicates directly w/ the thermostat if on the same network.

u/candre23 · 2 pointsr/HVAC

Ecobee is definitely the way to go. It's the most expandable and configurable, without being overly complicated if you don't want it to be. If $250 is too rich for your blood, the old smartSI is on sale for $140. You don't get the touchscreen or remote temp/occupancy sensors, but it's otherwise feature-comparable to the 3.

u/Schnodally · 1 pointr/DIY

I like the way you think sir. I found a similar fan on Amazon, different model numbers with more CFM coverage but I'm wondering if I can go with something smaller and pair it with something like this so it shuts on and off on its own. Which in lies another to I power the damn thing? I also completely forgot to mention that the master bedroom gets pretty damn cold at night when the AC is on at night and in the winter time when I turn on the heater (apartment has heating coils) the bedroom gets way too hot. Saw a similar reviewer with my situation so I'm hoping to find a solution for both needs: to cool/heat the second bedroom.

As a dad...what is this privacy you speak of?

u/thrawn_2071 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I used this when I needed to do the same, worked great, don't think I had to cut anything, just rearrange the wiring. Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit

u/Oranges13 · 0 pointsr/ecobee

Not necessarily. I have 3 sensors through my house, but the common factor is the system itself. In the summer, the upstairs is too hot, in the winter the upstairs is still too cold.

The sensors do help balance it out, but the limitation is that the system is routed poorly and the upstairs has bad circulation.

In this case, my husband and I get a window AC during the summer, and a space heater during the winter.

If your landlord is concerned about fire, get a ceramic heater that does not actually have any live wires. Something like this:

I also connect it to a thermostat like this:

My husband is notorious for leaving a room without remembering to turn off the space heater, so it's nice to have both a temperature sensor that prevents it from getting too hot or too cold and also timer so that it's not running when I know we aren't going to be in our bedroom anyway.

You can use the thermostat to set your schedule, just as you would with the ecobee or another "smart" thermostat. Plug your AC or heater into it, make sure to turn the device up to HIGH so it doesn't inadvertently shut off with the integrated thermostat before the plug turns it off. And you will have your own climate control :)

u/chabz5000 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

i have electric baseboard and use a stelpro KI z-wave thermostat for control.

you'd need a z-wave hub to bridge the two systems (i use smartthings), and with this unit alexa doesn't have native thermostat control -- i had to install the alexa helper apps for smartthings.

right now i have an 'off' temperature setpoint and an 'on' temperature setpoint, so i just have to say 'Alexa, turn the heat on' or 'Alexa turn the heat off' to switch setpoints respectively. i can also say 'Alexa turn the heat up' and it bumps the setpoint by 5 or 10 degrees (i forget which, and i'm not home to check). asking alexa to turn the heat down just turns it off (with my setup anyway).

u/lessansculottes · 3 pointsr/electricians

If I understand you correctly, I think you want something like this

u/MaIakai · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If you can, stop and go open the panel on your hvac system (Attic/garage/Basement/crawlspace)

There you will find where those wires connect. take a picture, note it down.

There is a good chance that you could simply connect the C wire. There

Or use a c-wire bypass


u/byobeer · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Chance are that those baseboard thermostats are 'line voltage' units. Either 115v or 230v AC. Which means that they control the units by turning the power to them on and off.

Conventional (smart) thermostats are low voltage. They operate on 24v AC. They tell relays to operate the system. You cannot use a low voltage unit on a line voltage device. Well, you can, for about 2 seconds. Then you let the smoke out of your new thermostat.

I have seen a StelPro unit, which is designed for your application. You might want to check it out:

u/getMeSomeDunkin · 2 pointsr/FoodPorn

No no no. All you need is $50.

$25 on a crock pot and $25 on this:

It'll self regulate the crock pot water to whatever temp you want. A bit less elegant, but way cheaper and you can still crock pot stuff like normal.

u/2moreweeks · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I've used the small oil filled heaters with a plugin thermostat for when it gets way too cold like these

u/xXx_DarkAngel_xXx · -2 pointsr/bayarea

Switch from central heat to space heaters using temperature controllers like this one:

u/Kv603 · 1 pointr/HVAC

I took down a couple of the battery-powered Honeywell touchscreen models to install "smart" radio-controlled Z-Wave honeywells.

My old ones look like this model:

As long as you don't configure the thermostat to keep the backlight on, you should get 6+ months from the 3 AAA alkaline batteries it uses when not connected to a "C" wire.

u/dac0502 · 2 pointsr/thermostats

Thank you I ordered this..... Honeywell THP9045A1023 Wiresaver Wiring Module for Thermostat

I believe this should solve the issue

u/chadridesabike · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Check out this DIY solution I found.

I'm planning on building something like this soon. For the temperature control, I'm planning on using this instead.

u/Bufo_Stupefacio · 1 pointr/Cooking

You can control the temp with an external regulator like this one

u/Syrupvip · 1 pointr/Nest

To me it sounds like you need this:

Also use this as a guide:

Edit: Reason I say so is you should always use a common wire with Nest. You have to check your furnace terminal to see if it has a the right setup.

u/ShitBabyPiss · 2 pointsr/electricians

Why don't you just get a temp sensor like this

Then you could plug it in near the equipment (assuming you have a surge strip in there) and then run the fans off that with a couple set points.

u/buddysharts · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

We use a plug with a thermostat rather than a thermostat on the heater. Works great for us and can also be used with a fan to keep a room cool but shut off when it gets too cold. Have been using it in the kids room for 4 years with nothing but great results.

Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat

u/ifeeladraft · 1 pointr/hvacadvice

It's not just long-term support I'm concerned about. When a product is required to "phone home" to vendor-controlled servers to perform its functionality, you've lost all control over your privacy (they now have a continuous stream of data on their servers about your home), not to mention the product's reliability and longevity.


I've gotten a response from a vendor that their thermostat does not require Internet access and that there are mobile apps that would allow one to control it over one's home WiFi network. It's not as pretty as the big vendor's products, but it does fit the bill.

u/Ferivich · 1 pointr/ottawa

1970s condo, 1350 sqft, 2 bed 1 bath. $160ish average over the winter, $90 in the summer (A/Cs). I'm a ground floor unit so I'm naturally colder, the insulation isn't great and I have a lot of windows that get a lot of wind.

In the winter I plastic over all the small windows and over large windows (like a sliding glass door) I hang a cheap shower curtain (clear) to kill drafts. I open the curtains on sunny days and close them when it starts getting dark or when I get home from work (4pm). I replaced all my land lords thermostats in rooms that I keep them on constantly in with programmable thermostats that I'll take with me when I leave. For my largest room it has two 1100W baseboard heaters, they cost a fortune to run. I have a ceiling fan and a radiant oil space heater that's plugged into this thin g, , it saved me $100/month on average last winter. Rooms that I don't use constantly (bathroom) I keep the doors closed too. I don't need them super warm and they won't drop below 15-16 degrees. I turn the heat down to 15c in my bedroom at night and in the office/guest room as well. We use an electric throw blanket that we got at Target for $10 to heat up the bed while we read before sleep and then we turn it off. We add a polar fleece blanket over our duvet in the winter.

We could save more but she works from home quite often (twice a week on average) in the winter so that raises the bill and we have an electric fire place we use if we need to quickly heat the living/dining area up that also raises the bill. Having pets and keep them warm doesn't help either.

u/Face999 · 1 pointr/DIY

won't that blanket suffice? It says it has a thermostat?

Other than that use a line voltage thermostat and a heating pad? Should not take mush to keep it warm.


That is overkill - but would work. You could find a baseboard heat one at a rehab shop for 5 bucks.

There are also reptile heaters.

u/JCCZ75 · 2 pointsr/Nest

Venstar Add a Wire works well if you have a 4 wire setup and want a C wire.

Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Accessory for All 24 VAC Thermostats (4 to 5 Wires), White

Also Nest has a feature called Airwave that is supposed to turn off your compressor and keep running the fan but only after temp has been achieved.

u/daterbase · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

You can get really cheap temperature control. I bought this thing

Build an insulated enclosure or get a big cooler or something that fits the fermenter. Drop the temperature controller in connected to an extension cord, program it for the temp you want and plug a small lamp into it that also fits in the enclosure. If it is well insulated, a single bulb should do the trick. I've heard that a strand of christmas tree lights will work, too.

Frankly, my enclosure is a cardboard box covered in old sweatshirts. I assume that the fermenting wort is a little warmer than the air inside the box so I set the temp controller to turn the light on at a slightly cooler temp than I want the wort.

u/fgben · 1 pointr/DIY

I've got one of these, which might work for your fan control.

u/MzCWzL · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

In case you don’t see the other answer, if it is “dumb” in that it’s just a dial and a switch, turn it to the highest temperature and leave it on then plug it into a thermostat type device like

u/ovirt001 · 1 pointr/homelab

With enough insulation you should be fine, assuming heat won't ever be a problem. Alternatively you can grab one of these and a heater:

u/Mindtaker · 1 pointr/relationship_advice

People who don't wear warmer clothes to keep energy and heating bills reasonable are idiots.

Since he won't listen to you (A great signal for the amount of respect he has for you) there isn't much you can do that isn't petty.

Once you guys start getting petty the relationship has an expiry date.

So here are my shitty suggestions as you are locked in a real catch 22 because he doesn't give two shits about your opinion.

Open all the windows while he has the heat high till it cools down and then you both pay 3x the heating bill till one of you breaks or you go broke.

Buy This

u/Yepjules · 1 pointr/Nest

You don’t have a common wire. It won’t work well. You can try this: Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit

u/pigdogdaddy · 1 pointr/cigars

I am using this thermostatic controller which is working well for me on my wineador. I have it come on at 69F and off at 65F.

u/marcone87 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Would something like this work? The other one seems really expensive for such limited functionality.

Haven't taken the old ones down yet, just spoke with the condo manager...