If I started over, my first whistle would be the Dixon DX001 because it is so sensitive, lovely sounding, easy to play, and smooth even up into the 3rd and 4th octaves. It is noticeably faster and more focused even to a novice.

My 2nd instrument would be the MK Pro Low D whistle. It is truly a lovely instrument and capable of very focused tone but also very chiffy and woodsy tones if preferred. My only negative is that the aluminum causes a lot of condensation build up, even on the mouth piece and even without playing. I am constantly having to dry the airway so I don't have condensation running down my chin.

The Dixon Low D tunable in metal is one I play far more than the MK but it doesn't sound quite as nice. It's got a less focused, softer, tone. However the plastic mouthpiece and fipple don't have any condensation issues and so it's much more comfortable to play, especially when it's cold.

Other whistles I've enjoyed are the Shaw High D with wood fipple. It has a very pleasant, chiffy sound but the construction is a little crude. The Clarke SDBC is almost as good as the Shaw but more refined in construction.

The Generation and Feadog whistles with the plastic fipple over a brass tube are the cheapest, most toy like whistles I own, but even they are very playable. I dislike the hard edges of the tone holes on my fingers though. It makes ornaments with finger slides less enjoyable.

All whistles are going to require VERY little breath. You could almost play it without your lips touching.

I have had my eye on the Chieftain Thunderbirds for awhile but have not had a chance to play one yet. I've heard they are much louder than average, and this can make them very good for busking and playing with others. The one challenge with any whistle is that it's difficult to control dynamics. You can only blow so hard in the low register before it jumps to a higher register, so it can be difficult to play with enough volume.

I made this a couple months ago and the recent post of a DIY smoker and a request for more details prompted me to put this together.

Materials Needed:

• Mini Vacuum on ebay
  
• Smoking/Pipe Screens - 1 large - 1 small
  
• 3 feet of 1/4" interior diameter vinyl tubing
  
• 2 inches of 3/8" interior diameter vinyl tubing
  
• Brass Hose Barb
  
  I've added links to products similar to the ones I used and they're all available via Amazon but most items can be easily found locally for much less. I was able to buy the brass fitting and the vinyl tubing by the foot at a home improvement store. The pipe screens were less than 10 cents each at a local smoke shop. The ebay auction I linked to is by far the least expensive place to get the mini vacuum that I found.
  
  Start by inserting the Small Pipe Screen in the mouth of the Brass Hose Barb. This is a secondary screen to catch any small particles to prevent them from entering the vacuum. Insert the brass hose barb into a 1.5" - 2" piece of 3/8" vinyl tubing. You will connect this to the top of the mini vacuum. If you buy the sizes I indicate they will fit perfectly on the mini vacuum I linked to. Finally connect a 3 foot piece of the 1/4" vinyl tubing directly to the side outlet vent (again these will dry fit firmly) or you can use the flexible plastic piece that comes with the vacuum. I find this a little easier to add and remove and is more flexible.
  
  Once this is assembled, take the large pipe screen and form it into a cup using the back of a pen and insert it into the brass hose barb. This is where you will put your wood shavings. Any shavings work, I started by using larger pieces of hickory that I was shaving down using a microplane but it was time consuming so I purchased some of the PolyScience chips from the kitchen store. They work well and don't burn down quite as fast.
  
  To use the smoker, apply a flame to the wood chips until they start to ignite and turn on the vacuum. Once the vacuum starts you can remove the flame and it will give you about 20-30 seconds of smoke. Believe me this is more than enough. It produces a nice dense smoke that can be very potent.
  
  I put together a quick (and not my best work) video of the gun in action.
  Hope you enjoy!
  

I just buy the box of blue nitrile gloves with like 50 pairs or whatever (I do mostly lith printing, so I'm wary about soaking in all that formaldehyde too!) Once the print's in the tray, I pull a pair on. By the time I've fixed and have the print rinsed and in a holding tray, the gloves are probably really well washed. I just toss them on the counter, dry my hands, and use another pair for the next print. When I clean up for the day, I may have 4 or 5 pairs lying around. I just spread them out on the counter and they're dry by the next day, so I reuse them a few sessions. I have a hair dryer in the darkroom for various stuff, like checking test strips for dry-down changes (most warmtone paper gains about a half stop in the highs when dry), so I sometime blow my hands dry before putting a dry pair on, or even blow it into a damp pair of gloves. I think it takes me close to a year to go through a whole box, though my wife swipes some when she colors her hair!

Can't recall if I've mentioned this here, but I made some wooden supports that let a 16x20 or 20x24 tray rest on top of the bath tub. I got a 1/2" female pipe to hose-barb connector, and I keep a wrench in the bathroom (most US shower heads screw onto a 1/2" male pipe). So I unscrew the shower head, screw the hose barb in, and run vinyl tubing down to the tray; I stick a little shim under the tray, so when it fills, it overflows into the tub on the far side. I stick a piece of PVC in the tub drain, which keeps about 4" of water in the tub and then overflows into the pipe. So to wash 2 big prints, the water flows over the top print (in the tray), then down and across the print in the tub itself, and drains. Works really well and really just takes like 3 minutes to setup. (Luckily we have a bathroom near my darkroom that's only used when my kids come home). I like that I can use warm-ish water to wash the prints, it does speed diffusion of the fixer from the paper.

Yep! I use this one. I considered the one you linked, but got the metal one simply because it was cheaper at the time. Both would get the job done.


I have it connected to my k40 via 4" dryer hose and this flange hose fitting which fits perfectly in the slot on the back of the k40.


Used these clamps to secure the dryer tubing together.


As far as how well it works, I'm pretty satisfied. I have the exhaust blowing out a 4" fitting attached to a board I close in my window. I smell a little bit of burnt wood when cutting, but it's very minute. Almost all smoke goes out the window. The suction is very good, if I'm cutting card stock it occasionally sucks the small paper pieces right off the cutting bed. When I'm doing laser alignments, it almost completely eliminates the smell of burning masking tape during test firing even with the door open.

I just bought these and they're threaded on both sides so that what you linked to (or these which I also bought) should fit. I put them on some 5gal buckets and the seal is working great. Pretty happy with the setup so far :)

I just made a double keg setup out of two corny kegs, a Danby mini fridge, and a 5lb CO2 cylender. I'm using a single gauge regulator for now with a manual splitter so I can alter the CO2 and force carb one keg when I need to - but I wish I had a dual gauge/barb regulator to adjust both air lines.

Not sure what a temperature controller is? And please buy a decent regulator. It's like the power supply for your computer - you skimp and the whole thing shits the bed.

Also, buying something like this clamp kit will save a ton of time if something breaks or you want to fully swap out lines.

My biggest understanding item building it was the disconnect systems on the kegs. Most corny home brew systems are in/out post connections. Commercial kegs are sankey-type, which are completely incompatible with your ball-lock in/out post connections, so you'll need to swap ends to use a commercial.

Yes the pump is for wort into the chiller. You could probably gravity feed it if the kettle was above the chiller. You also have to run santizer through the chiller before chilling, so the pump makes that easier.

I bought some cheap 14 gauge wire to wrap around the tube, it's just to maximize water-copper contact which helps a lot with cooler.

For the fittings I bought the following, for each end:
1/4 female tee
1/2" barb x 1/4 NPT x2
1/4 x 1/4 compression fitting

Easiest thing to do it just go to a local hardware store, start with a 1/4" x 10ft copper tube in your hand then start looking at the brass fittings and piece it together in front of you. How you attach it to your sink will depend on your faucet, I had to mcgyver a stupid reducer and hose clamp setup. Most hardware store reps could help you piece it all together if you have a photo and know your faucet size.

This is basically what I use...

The basics:

• Tote for your res
  
  
• Digital timer
  
  
• Pump
  
  
• Manifold (has an assortment of flow rate inserts so you can set it up how you want)
  
  
• fitting to attach hose from pump to manifold
  
  
• pump-to-manifold tubing
  
  
• Drip tubing
  
  Extras, that make things nice and easy:
  
  
• FloraFlex cap for even distribution through the medium
  
  
• Floraflex clips to hold the drip lines in place
  
  
  If you feed drain-to-waste, you'll want to come up with some way to collect runoff. Maybe something like THIS small HD tote, with a few holes drilled through the top. Just set your plant on top and it will collect all your runoff.

I've used a trash can in the past (I've got a jockey box now). Works pretty good. Regarding a co2 splitter, I just a brass t for my portable setup. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LNOSFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Like others have said, a triptan nasal spray or oxygen are your best bet. I'm on mobile right now. I'll link the parts on amazon that you'll need to get the oxygen setup without a doctor later.

Edit:
Regulator $28

Hose barb $3

Non-rebreather Mask $7

Just need a welding oxygen tank after that. Make sure you have the oxygen flow maxed at 15L and when turning on the tank valve, do it slowly.

Yes! That's the one that i have, and i love it.

Is it expensive? Yes.

Are there better alternatives? Probably.

But i absolutely love mine, it is a bit of a beast to disassemble and sanitize every time, but its not overbearing. I just got tired of loosing so much when i racked, and now i barely loose any mead from primary to secondary.

p.s. get these attachments. that way you can easily just let it siphon on its own.

1 & 2

yup, silicone tube and a ball valve to control the flow if I'm feeling fancy. I also put together a little u-bend out of these three pieces so I can just hook it to the lip of the mash & boil. I have this pump which was nice because some of those tan pumps don't come pre-wired with a dc plug

the immersion chiller is a major key, and with the pump whirlpooling my wort I've actually found that I can cool 5 gallons quicker than when I was doing 2 gallon brews lol

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XNA76W/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Handle - I picked this material because its 316L Stainless steel, out of all the metals it seems like its the "safest" to smoke from and it feels nice. Out of all the choices in dimensions I picked this one with something close to 3/8" inside diameter. I tried looking for one that had a decent wall thickness which this one did so I could get that heavy sturdy feel.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOV0MS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Hose - silicone tubing; I tried finding the cheapest one without sacrificing quality. OD is the same as the steel tubing so stretching this over should not be a problem.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SCXX0U/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
hose grips - to bind both ends of the silicone tubing with the steel pipe

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00857RDNM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U
spiral wrapping for the hose


Not sure how this will turn out, I haven't purchased any of it yet, I figured I have the weekend to make adjustments and to see if I can find a better deal from reputable vendors and/or make adjustments to what to use.

For gas last year I built a extended run system using a 14 gallon caddy. Took the hose off, put a brass fitting, fuel line and some fuel clamps. The you just need a fuel cap like this one which I like because it’s Made in the USA and includes a great magnetic dip stick and funnel. Lastly here is the quick disconnect fitting for the cap.

Fill it up and run all weekend long.

Here is a link on amazon for a 3/16 swivel nut. The beer line goes over the 3/16 "barb". The "flare" end will screw right onto the pin lock disconnects you have in your setup. Use worm clamps to secure your line to the barb fitting on the swivel nut and the barb on your beer shank that's attached to your tap. Read about keg line balancing to see how long your line needs to be to get a good pour. Hope this helps!

I think I've got it figured out, but I could use a help figuring out / confirming the parts and connections for a recirculating line cleaner for my keezer.


When I purchased the Mark II Keg & Carboy Washer it came with an inline attachment for the post that allows you to connect tubing on the side. I've done that and attached a swivel nut with a 1/4" barb so that I can hook up a gas or liquid disconnect and divert some of the flow into the gas or liquid dip tube while cleaning a keg.


Using the same pump and the abovementioned setup, would getting a pair of these (is this the right size threading?) and attaching them to either end of a length of tubing do the job? This would, in theory, connect the swivel nut at the end of the keg washer tube to the swivel nut of the beverage line that runs to a tap faucet (after removing the quick disconnect).

edit: to point to a different hose fitting (1/4" NPT rather than 1/8" NPT)

The biggest contributor to the amount of foam is the flow rate out of the tap. To reduce the foam, reduce the flow rate. You're using 11 PSI with a 5 ft line, which sounds like it would pour really fast.

Option 1: Lower pressure for serving

Bleed pressure from keg and set regulator to 2-5 PSI when serving. Re-pressurize when not serving so the beer doesn't go flat.

Pros: No extra equipment required.

Cons: Incredibly wasteful in terms of CO2. Using this method, I blasted through roughly a third of a 5# tank dispensing just one keg.

Option 2: Adjust beer line length

Make the line length longer according to the style of beer, to compensate for high pressure in the keg. This has to do with fluid dynamics. There is info available on this if you search; I remember seeing posts on this a few weeks ago.

Pros: simple, effective, and inexpensive

Cons: Requires a lot of cutting and re-clamping of beer lines for each different style of beer; no way of doing fine tuning of flow rate for more or less head; requires keeping a bigger inventory of tubing for different styles.

Option 3: Flow control

Put something in your draft system that allows you to adjust the flow rate without attaching/reattaching anything.

Pros: easy to control, less hassle/mess. Just turn a dial and get the flow rate exactly what you want it to be, to perform on-the-spot adjustments for the perfect pour.

Cons: more expensive, although I've seen plastic inline flow controllers like this $2.50 USD one

I have the Perlick 650SS tap on my kegerator and it works like a charm. If you're using a picnic tap or want to use a tap without built-in flow control, and you want something nice, you can get an inline flow control compensator like the one made by CM Becker, or (less expensive but still solid) make one using a stainless steel NPT ball valve and two hose barbs (clamps and plumber's tape not included).

Edit: info/links

Alright, The wood, nuts, bolts, screw, L brackets, plastic, plexi-glass, wire, air compressor, duct work reducer (to create funnel), and pail can all be bought at a hardware store outlet. (I had most of those all on hand)

Everything else

Pneumatic cylinder -crusher 25$

loading cylinder 30$

Solenoids 20$

6mm quick connect fittings 15$ you may need to order a converter or adapter to fit the crushing cylinder. I think its 1/4" fittings, so you could order those too but be sure to check

6mm Pneumatic hose 12$

6mm T splitter 6$

Air Pressure Regulator 10$ use to regulate the air to the loading piston as it runs at a lower psi/ can be slowed down some as well.

Shut off valve 6$

Quick connect to airline 6$ What you need may be different. Depending on your set up.

Arduino Uno 15$

12V Power supply 7$

12V to 9V 6$

158$ + construction materials that shouldn't cost more than 50$

Note: Some of this may be found else where for cheaper, but at least you know what you are looking for. Also I rounded everything up.

Let me know if this helps at all.

Edit: Its also helpful to have someone who can weld, so that cost has to be factored in as well. I traded work for work.

I LOVE my Mash & Boil, especially after I upgraded it. Here are the things I bought for it to do my upgrade. It’s a good amount of money up front but worth it.



CHUGGER PUMP CPSS-CI-1 Stainless Steel 115 Volt Center Home Brewing System Beer Pump, 55” Cord WITH Plug, Inlet 3/4” x Outlet 1/2” MPT, ETL-Certified, USFDA Food Compliant Materials https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HERFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vECLBbD3PTY36


HFS(R) Homebrew Beer Wort Chiller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y41HCFP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


White SiliconeTubing, 1/2"ID, 3/4"OD, 1/8"Wall, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VECLBb3CM7H5Q


MRbrew Quick Disconnect 304 Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TCQF6Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


CONCORD 304 Stainless Steel Quick... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079J5X3XD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Anderson Metals Brass Garden Hose... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMU7U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


LOKMAN Hose Clamp, 20 Pack Stainless Steel Adjustable 13-19mm Range Worm Gear Hose Clamp, Water Pipe Clamp for for Plumbing, Automotive and Mechanical Applications https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077R2PNVT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yHCLBbB7TH7W8


Dernord Full Port Ball Valve Stainless Steel 304 Heavy Duty for Water, Oil, and Gas with Blue Locking Handles (1/2" NPT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076D7WM9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wKCLBbEH1QPR0


HomeBrewStuff Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UI995XG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Yes sir.
This is a barb valve https://www.amazon.com/FPT-BARB-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0064OJDUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498193537&sr=8-1&keywords=barb+valve+1%2F2+1%2F2

This is camlocks https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1844.htm
All it is is a quicker way of changing tubing without the need to pull a tube off your barb valve.

The great thing about the brew hardware website is they explain how to install each and every part they sell.

I just meant to check the cheap stuff before you buy a fuel pump. Sounds like the pump is probably your issue though. I'd get a Walbro 255LPH from amazon. Oh and make sure to be EXTREMELY careful taking the hoses off the pump assembly because if there's any rust those metal lines will break off, which is not fun to deal with. I had to drill out the holes and then I pushed one of these through the hole and tightened this on the other side and then used some JB weld to make the tank air tight again.

I just finished up a fruit beer a couple weeks ago. To filter out the particles I used an aquarium micron bag and clamped it onto the end of the hose with one of these. All in all, it worked out pretty well.

I'm glad to see more people are mentioning this, it's (IMO) a much better way to leak test without the risk of actual leaks. Some Amazon links for my current setup:

You'll need a pressure gauge, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087UCI8C/ has a relatively low maximum for high sensitivity (easy to see if there's a drop)

You'll need a valve you can hook a hand pump on to (like what you'd use to pump up a bike tire -- I don't recommend an electric pump because of the low pressure you need). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLI4BA/ is in the same threading as the gauge.

You'll need a tee to connect these things to -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQUTBS/

Finally, connecting the tee to your rig. I take a scrap of tubing, put a fitting on one end, and slip the other over: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFNKBO/ (check for your tube's inside diameter!).

Assembly is pretty straightforward, wrap some pipe tape around each component's threads and screw into the tee. Before connecting to your rig, you may want to cap the open end and pressurize it a bit to make sure you're not starting with any leaks. Connect in to your fill or drain port as appropriate, and slowly pressurize the system. You don't need a ton, only 8-10 psi is plenty, and is more than the water will be operating at. Mark the gauge position, and come back in a few hours. If the needle has moved, you've got a leak -- you can swab glycerin or dawn soap around your seals to find where. If not, you know that air at higher than normal operating pressure isn't leaking out, and that's a nice tolerance to know you have!

One of these attached to your regulator with a couple of checked shutoffs would let you shut off each keg individually, which is nice sometimes. It'd let you dial your pressure up for carbonating on one keg while shutting the gas off to the other, for instance.

But just a simple 5/16" barbed tee to split the line works fine, too, if you're okay with unhooking a keg while messing with the other.

Sure, that should work. Just make sure that you clamp down all your hoses and double- and triple-check for leaks. Keep some extra hose clamps on hand. They should be super tight, but not so tight that they cut through the tubing.

I suggest this Gates Fuel Line Hose instead. It's top quality reinforced hose. I also suggest these hose clamps. That petcock seems OK. It should be replaced because it will likely go out while you own it, and this might be why the scooter stopped running suddenly.

Ok so no experience doing high volume Ejuice bottling, but had an idea for you.

First thing is use gravity, So get a container for the storage of the juice you are dispensing into the smaller bottles. Something large and that you can suspend from above. Also something that you can drill a hole into. Once you have this drill a hole towartds one edge of the bottom. Find yourself a stainless steel valve and get some stainless fittings to go from the bucket into the valve. Just screw one side into the valve and place a nut on the inside of the bucket to tighten it up to the hex part. Maybe get a longer one so you have plenty clearance on the handle. Use silicone or simiar food grade washers to seal this up. Maybe even a caulking if there is a food grade type.

At this point you have two choices. You can go straight into a barb fitting, then some flexible hose down to where your bottles will sit at. Just open the valve fill to weight close and move on. Or....

If it were me I would go into barb fitting then tubing then back into barb fitting and another valve. I would then measure this section between the valves to be the exact amount I want in each bottle. After the second valve it would go back into barb then hose for a final stretch of tubing to the fill area.

This way you would open first valve fill area to second valve, close first open second, fill bottle, close second, rinse and repeat.

Open valve 1, close valve 1, open valve 2, close valve 2, bottle filled. If you did around 3/8" to 1/2" on the tubing diameter even heavy VG should flow well just with gravity.

Once again I have never created a setup like this, but the problem intrigued me. Also just listed stainless fittings in general. I assume your doing this commercialy, and would use food grade which I googled to be 304, you may already be well aware of all of this, just thought I'd add it.

try a few of these
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Brand-B20HS-Stainless-Clamp/dp/B007Q4YD38/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1410393896&sr=8-7&keywords=hose+clamp they are 4 to 8 dollars (depending on the size) each but they are reusable so when you get done with them you can unscrew them and use them on a later project

or just go to http://www.amazonsupply.com/ and search for pipe/tube/cylindrical clamp and see what amazon has to offer

These:

https://www.amazon.com/Dixon-DC20S-Interchange-Quick-Connect-Coupling/dp/B00835GNUA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Dixon+stainless+quick+connect&qid=1566216607&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-Coupling-DCP21S-Quick-Connect/dp/B00835H2SM/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=Dixon+stainless+quick+connect&qid=1566216648&s=gateway&sr=8-7

plus some of these for spots where you can't or don't want to use a threaded plug:

https://www.gwkent.com/pneumatic-plug-tc-adaptor.html

Here's my nice stainless 1/2" setup. I had a brass 3/8" setup but it's slow and I was paranoid of lead leaching out of it.

Spigot + bulkhead

1/2" barb

Bazooka screen

Silicone tubing

You might forego the bazooka screen and just use a brew bag like https://www.brewinabag.com/. Or perhaps a false bottom if you have some extra cash to burn. The 12" bazooka screens don't fit, so you have to be a little careful with stuck sparges if you get this 6".

BTW I'm using the 10 gallon cylindrical cooler, not the rectangular kind.

Are you talking about a hose clamp?

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Brand-B-HS-Stainless-Clamp/dp/B007Q4YD38

Never heard of it. But here's the parts to do that.
Carbonation cap with fittings.
Mini CO2 regulator with adapter
Co2 Tank
Tubing
Hose clamps.

Anderson Metals Brass Compression Hose Fitting, Connector, Barb x NPT Female

http://amzn.com/B003CEN5BW

Not sure your size exactly it this should point you in the right direction.