Reddit mentions: The best household batteries

We found 1,058 Reddit comments discussing the best household batteries. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 427 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

17. Energizer 2032 Battery CR2032 Lithium 3v (1 Pack of 5)

    Features:
  • Lithium battery for long lasting life in remote entry and electronic devices.
  • Comes five to a pack in individually sealed foil backed blister packaging.
Energizer 2032 Battery CR2032 Lithium 3v (1 Pack of 5)
Specs:
Color2032
Height2 Inches
Length0 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateDecember 2020
Size5 Count (Pack of 1)
Weight0.0375 Pounds
Width6 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on household batteries

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where household batteries are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 62
Number of comments: 39
Relevant subreddits: 28
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Number of comments: 6
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Top Reddit comments about Household Batteries:

u/badon_ · 2 pointsr/Vaping101

> Wow. First of all, thanks for worrying and writing all this down. I really appreciate it.

My pleasure. I sincerely hope it helps to protect you from injuries.

> I am ordering a more advanced vape (with replaceable batteries) one of these days, just gotta sit down and make up my mind on which one to get.

It might help if you start with deciding on the battery type you want to use. If you use AA NiMH batteries, you never have to worry about accidents, and you can take the batteries on airlines or do whatever you want with them, and nobody will get hurt.

If you want rechargeable lithium batteries, 18650 is probably your best bet, and you can find more reliable 18650 cells using u/parametrek's site. I start with a link to a search for AA batteries, since those are the best choice in my opinion:

  • Search for AA batteries by Wh/$ - Parametrek

    The best AA batteries for vaping probably aren't on Parametrek's site, so I'll link to them here:

  • IKEA LADDA AA NiMH 2450 mAh rechargeable battery 4 pack

    They're cheap, high capacity, available locally, and SAFE. I actually recommend getting AA Eneloop NiMH batteries for all your battery needs, and then using the excellent quality Eneloop charger for your IKEA LADDA AA batteries. Just don't use the Eneloop cells in your vape device, because you pay extra money for them to get more longevity, but vaping devices are so rough on batteries, you won't actually get more longevity out of Eneloops if you use them in vapes, so there's no point in paying the extra money for them.

    Just get the Eneloops for your OTHER devices, and use the Eneloop charger for your IKEA LADDA batteries. IKEA has chargers too, but they're not as good as the Eneloop charger, despite costing about the same price, and will shorten the life of your LADDA cells.

    I recommend you get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

  • New battery day! 24 AA Eneloop NiMH batteries in 16 and 8 cell packs. : r/AAMasterRace

    Get this package first to get the highest quality charger on the market:

  • AmazonSmile: Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries: PANASONIC: Electronics

    You need that charger to get the full life out of Eneloops. If you take care of them, Eneloops will last at least a decade, maybe longer. The IKEA LADDA would last a maximum of perhaps 4 or 5 years, but that life will probably be closer to 1 or 2 years in a vape device. I'm not really sure about this, so like most things, results may vary.

    Another good option are AA Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries, which are not rechargeable, but they're lightweight, and they last longer than any other battery on the market, by far:

  • AmazonSmile: Energizer AA Lithium Batteries, World's Longest Lasting Double A Battery, Ultimate Lithium (12 Count): Health & Personal Care

    By being non-rechargeable, they are safer, but still provide the power you expect from lithium. They're expensive, but you could keep a few on-hand in case you don't have time to charge your NiMH cells, and you really need power immediately. They have a 20 year shelf life, so if you don't get around to using them for a very long time, that's OK too. For a lot of people, the convenience of disposable cells is sometimes worth the price, especially if you're traveling and you can't stop to charge.

    OK, now for the 18650 cells, in case you choose a more powerful 18650 vape device. u/parametrek tries to be selective, and eliminate junk from being listed on his sites. So, if you see a product on his site, it's unlikely to be absolutely horrible, but with that said, I must warn you the quality standards for most lithium cells are, well, not standardized. Without standardized specifications, it can be harder to predict what exactly you will get, but suffice to say, if you stick to the better brands, you will definitely be safer than with mysterious non-replaceable batteries (NRB's).

    Again, for safety reasons alone, you can't beat AA batteries, but if you decide you want the power of 18650, this should help you find something that will work for you:

  • Search for 18650 batteries by Wh/$ - Parametrek

    Notice the Vapcell brand, which is presumably designed for vaping devices. I'm not sure if there's any meaningful difference, but one thing I did notice it is priced about where most decent 18650 cells are priced at, around $7 to $8 USD.

    Oh, one more thing, there are 14500 cells you could consider too. They're the same size as an AA battery, so I think I would just use an AA battery, but here they are in case you want to look around:

  • Search for 14500 batteries by Wh/$ - Parametrek

    You might be able to find a device designed to take both 14500 or AA batteries, but they have to be designed for it. If it's not designed for it, bad things could happen if you put the wrong battery type in, so don't just try it to find out, you have to be sure before you do it by checking the features and specifications of the device. Now that you know it's possible, you can look specifically for this feature if you want it and it exists.

    I hope that helps you find a device that works well for you, safely.
u/greggorievich · 5 pointsr/preppers

I know your question was about water, but I'd like to rebut that article in general. I'll make sure to focus on water for you though. (TL;DR: I see The_Prepared is already here, and the article you already found is my suggestion.)

Here, I shall make some useful alternate suggestions:

Article Title: Well, I see the lies have already begun. Hey, I know of an article with almost the same name that's actually useful!

  • Pedal power fail socket: Dumb. For that price, buy a solar panel, a decent charge controller, and a battery. Find a nerd if you aren't one, hook them up (safely, standard internet advice disclaimer here), and you get power without needing to pedal, and also storage. If you want to charge your phone, use a 12v adapter, and if you need 120v power for something, you can get an inverter. It's pretty easy to hook it all up, there are a lot of resources, search for "DIY solar generator". Here's one I made for a good friend. This will be about a hundred times as useful to you, at only a slightly higher price.

  • Crappy GMRS radios: You can tell this article is BS because they actually think the "23 mile range" claim has some kind of validity. Emergency comms for preppers generally means a Ham radio license, those walkie talkies are only marginally better than toys. All the same, they're cheap, and can't hurt. I have a pair.

  • Cell phone: It amuses me that the article states "we have a strong suspicion", thus confirming they did no actual journalism or research . In the event of a disaster, 2G will be exactly as non existent as it is now. They also chose the Nokia because of a meme! What's their next memetic indestructible suggestion? A Wiimote? Gamecube? At least you could bludgeon an intruder to death with a Gamecube. My suggestion: Use your regular phone, because it works with the existing infrastructure. Text messages tend to work better in disasters, because high call volume stresses the network, and texts are a tiny amount of data. Also, stay off the phone unless you really need to use it, because someone else might be in a life threatening situation and need to call for help.

  • Ultimate survival kit: I disagree with premade survival kits because they use low quality items, most of them won't actually be useful, and if you build your own, you have more familiarity with the equipment and usage. If you want a pre made kit, look at the contents, buy it in pieces, and test every piece before you put it in your kit. At least then you'll know how it all works, and be familiar with exactly whats in there.

  • Glowy keychain thing: I mean, i like glowy things, but the only real use for this is if you want to take a photo and post it on /r/EDC and then get flak from them because it's not even tritium, which incidentally doesn't need charging and would work far better for the purpose the article suggests anyway.

  • Waterbricks: No argument here, but The Prepared has a really awesome article about this and I'm not going to type words that they have already covered in great detail. (I see they've already found this thread, anyway.)

  • Condoms: Pretty fair point there. They expire, so rotate them like any other perishable prep item. I'd say probably stock conventional ones because no one wants a hurricane baby, and some unlubricated ones for assorted other purposes, but don't plan on using them for stuff. If you need something waterproof, do not think "I'll just put a condom on it when I need to!". If you can think of it in advance, figure out a proper solution, and leave the condoms for in a pinch fixes you didn't anticipate.

  • Hand crank radio: Sure I guess? I'd rather have a radio that uses rechargeable batteries, and then use the solar rig from my first bullet point to charge the batteries. Anything with a hand crank will put out a really tiny amount of power and requires you to effort. Once you stop cranking, you're running off of the way-too-tiny battery in the unit, whereas solar is a huge amount of power that requires no effort, which you can then use to charge lots of batteries and then just swap them. Or run the radio off of a 12v adapter directly. For the radio itself, You want AM/FM/NOAA Weather Radio at a minimum, and an argument could be made for shortwave, because it can cover huge distances (I'm in central Alberta, Canada, and can easily pick up Radio Havana Cuba on shortwave). Again, a Ham license and some equipment of that sort would also be useful if you want to get into that.

  • MRE's: Sure, though ask a soldier friend what they think of them, and what they do to your guts. I'm personally going to stick with Mountain House or similar. Also, there's an article from The Prepared on this topic, too. (Hey mods, just so you know I'm not paid or coerced in any way to suggest this site. I gain nothing from them, it's just the best information I've found, and it's convenient to link them instead of type a whole lot.)

  • As seen on TV "Tactical" Flashlight: No! Ask nicely in /r/flashlight, or pick something that meets your needs from Here. Thrunite tends to be inexpensive, high quality, nice features, and nice light, if you're looking for a brand suggestion. Fenix and Nitecore are also solid choices.

  • 1911: Limiting this one because too much politics and heated debate. I love 1911s, but .45 is a bit big for an infrequent shooter, but a 9mm clone like an STI Spartan, or perhaps a Jericho (Baby Eagle) in 9mm, or a CZ, would work nicely.

  • Casper Mattress: Wait, that's an ad, never mind. I couldn't really tell the difference.
u/hwillis · 2 pointsr/ElectricalEngineering

> I want a brushed motor because that is the old kind that would be period specific technology.

Kind of; the first practical DC motor was built in 1886 and Tesla patented his induction motor in 1887. The modern AC induction motor was patented in 1889 and by 1900 they had surpassed DC motors in stationary applications.

By the time the Model T came out induction motors were more common than DC motors, but you're right that moving motors (cars, trains) were all DC until the 50s. The reason is that DC motors are the only motors that can be well-controlled by varying their voltage. That meant they could be controlled by rheostats and variable voltage. If they were focused on efficiency they'd have taps that would connect more and more batteries in series for a higher voltage.

Taps and rheostats are gonna make for an unpleasant driving experience, but if that's worth it to you then go for it. If you can show off the end of the motor in a cool way then that would be awesome, but do be aware that the best case efficiency of a setup like this is <50%. That's using a commercial, modern motor. I'd recommend you check this paper out, it lays out different motor efficiencies.

> I want to make a simple brushed permanent magnet motor like this I would fabricate everything myself with my cousin who works at a local machine shop and can use it on weekends.

Magnets are the easy part, unfortunately. The steel is much more important and a lot harder to get. You can get laminations made but that'll run you into $XX,XXX pretty easily IIRC. Doesn't hurt to ask though.

If you're considering using a normal low-carbon steel, don't. The drag at 1 Tesla (probably less than your magnets) and 3000 RPM is around 600 watts/kg to hysteresis alone. You'll be burning 25-75 horsepower just to cruise, the motor would need liquid cooling and a car-sized radiator, and that isn't even counting the other losses. You need a real core to make a motor like this.

> I'm asking about what kind of specs are needed for a motor to get about 50hp at around 600RPM.

I don't have time to do the math right now, but that would require some actual design work. Motors prefer to run in the 1000s of RPM, particularly DC motors. Low speeds like that are better for induction motors or even switched-DC motors. A slow DC motor would have to be very, very large.

> I only want a 10 mile range because that is plenty for my daily driving.

Modern electric cars get ~300 Wh/mile, but this setup would run closer to 1000-1600 Wh/mile. You'll also want a large buffer capacity to avoid sulfation, so ~1500 Ah is probably reasonable. Using these batteries that's around $2550 and 960 lbs of batteries.

u/Handsome_Zack · 8 pointsr/flashlight

Not the guy you're asking but here are my thoughts. There is pretty much no penlight on the market that will do what he wants, and it will be laughably ineffective regardless. If he needs something tiny, get him a Streamlight Stylus USB. That's gonna be about the brightest thing you can get with any ""tactical"" potency.

If you can talk him into a 14500 or 18650 light then he's more likely to get the power he wants. If he can handle having a solid chunk of aluminum on him, the Streamlight ProTac 2L-X and Wowtac A1S BSS v3 are going to be my choices for an inexpensive strobe machine. The Olight M1X Striker is another choice in this general form factor.

Streamlight also makes the ProTac 1L-AA which is a little smaller, but it only puts out 350 lumens.

All the lights I have posited outside the Stylus USB have easy access to the strobe mode, typically a double or triple tap on the tail switch. This is important to my mind because many lights require the light to be on and a button to be held for one second - practically useless and too long to get to if really needed.

I really hope that he does a big long think about what he wants out of this flashlight, and I hope he tries to "stun" himself with his flashlight to see what its like to be on the receiving end. The reaction he has, being prepared for it, is the best he can hope for in any situation in which he uses the strobe against someone. Its not like in the TacLight commercials.

I wrote a couple more of my thoughts on using a flashlight for self defense a little while ago if you find it handy. I personally like having the strobe and I would use it in an emergency situation, but its very important to note its limitations.

u/defacedlawngnome · 3 pointsr/bicycling

For tail lights I highly recommend the Planet Bike SuperFlash, PDW Radbot 1000 and PDW Danger Zone. Here's a direct link to Portland Design Works' selection of lights. I can't speak for PDW headlights as I have yet to purchase one but the quality of their tail lights is outstanding. All three of these lights cost $25-$30. I purchased them on Amazon.

As for a headlight I use a Fenix LD20 which will set you back $60 but the light is way better than any dedicated bicycle light with the same output (180 lumens @ 2xAA) for that price (e.g. Light & Motion/Magic Shine/NiteRider/etc). The LD20 can be used as an EDC with an assortment of attachments which can also be used on your bike. I've been experimenting with the white diffuser tip and have found that it provides a great 360 degree illumination of my bike at night when mounted on the down tube.

You can mount the light just about anywhere on your bike with either this mount or this one. The first I use on the handlebars and second I use to mount the light on my helmet. They're also good for mounting a lock on the frame.
I also invested in a pack of Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable Ni-MH batteries on amazon.

Whatever lights you decide on settling with I strongly recommend they take AA or AAA batteries as CR123's and 18650's are expensive and hard to come by when on the road.

You can never have too many lights. I've invested over $140 in several lights to be better seen and that's much cheaper than having to pay a hospital bill because I wasn't illuminated enough.

Lastly, I recommend the Delta Airzound Air Horn. This thing is a beast and impresses everyone that sees it and scares many that hear it. It has saved me from two very near collisions at night when my lights just weren't enough because the drivers weren't paying attention at all.

u/dubyrunning · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Sounds like you need a decently bright, durable light that runs on batteries that will take a very long time to drain, and won't mind temperature extremes.

I don't usually recommend lights that run on AA cells, but if you're looking something you can just leave in your vehicle and never have to think about charging, you probably want something that runs on lithium primary batteries (not lithium ion, NiMH, and definitely not alkaline). Lithium primary batteries are much less affected by hot and cold temperatures and will hold a charge much longer than any other typical consumer battery.

Your best bet for a mix of durability, quality, brightness, and features would be either the:

  • Armytek Prime A2 (use coupon code 'reddit' at Killzone for 1-% off, bringing it down to $64.80 and free shipping.

    EDIT: Note that /u/jotMJEG just shared an anecdote about three Armytek lights failing when left in vehicles, so you may wish to consider the Zebralight instead.

    or

  • Zebralight SC5w Mk II.

    Both lights will be very durable and high quality (Armytek and Zebralight are noted for this - though questions have been raised about Armytek), and more than bright enough.

    You should use a lithium primary AA battery, such as the Energizer Lithium. That way you can throw it in the light and never think about it until you run it down from use, or maybe in about 20 years of non-use.

    ***

    EDIT: And by the way, I recommend a AA lithium rather than a lithium CR123 for two reasons:

    (1) Due to the AA's higher capacity (3,000 mAh vs the CR123's 1,500 mAh typical), the AA will have longer runtimes before needing a replacement, and

    (2) The shelf life of a lithium AA is typically around 20 years vs. a CR123's typical 10 years. That means a AA lithium should have more juice and hold up better when you need it.

    The added brightness some CR123 lights can achieve is not going to be that noticeable or matter much for your occasional use, but the extra runtime and shelf life will.
u/asdfkjsdfsafdasdfa · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

It's actually not that expensive.

Well, expensive is relative, but you can get it done for a few grand, and you'll have a kick-ass electrical system to boot.


Get the 400 watt kit from renogy (650), the 200 watt kit (450), 4 of these batteries, and wire them up. Insulate van well and add a ~$100 wall unit (5000 btus, energy star) through a rear door.

all told you're looking at about $2000. You can get the components for those kits individually on amazon for cheaper (save a few hundred), or find alternatives that do the same thing without being as shiny (save 500+).

As a rule of thumb, 600 watts of solar to run at all. 800 or so to give yourself some leeway. It might not keep it at 70 degrees exactly, but it'll keep it comfortable enough, and when the temps cool down you'll have enough juice for anything short of an arc welder.

2k for an essential comfort doesn't seem too bad to me. It's an investment, but can definitely be done.

I think those estimates are based on no/shitty insulation. RV's are, as a general rule, insulated like crap (~3-5r). You can easily get 10r in every direction in a Promaster (unless you're super tall)

u/pzonee · 3 pointsr/AnalogCommunity
  1. wein cell battery is the modern replacement for this camera although I had mine converted to use a Varta 625 battery when I had it repaired. apparently they last much longer. just remember to switch it off "A" when the camera isn't in use to conserve battery.

  2. I've taken off the top of mine in an attempt to diagnose issues and it was pretty easy to dis and reassemble the cover/film advance leaver. I did not go any further than that. Havent tried to clean the viewfinder or anything either, that might be based on how good of shape it's in and if its worth the effort.

  3. There are a lot of guides on youtube, I haven't tried it but I know you're going to need a spanner to do it.

    hopefully some of that was helpful, I know it doesn't answer everything, but it's what I know from my experience. outside of that I'm not sure and wouldn't want to lead you astray

    The canonet is a great little camera, a little over hyped but still pretty great, enjoy it!
u/ace_alive · 5 pointsr/patientgamers
  • If you just play offline, you don't need an Xbox Live Gold subscription. It's not expensive though, I usually snatch a year-subscription for 40 EUR from ebay even though I don't play online games. You also get ~4 (older) games per month to add them to your library. It also gives you access to regular sales in the Microsoft Digital Store.

  • You could consider Xbox Game Pass though, you can get it for ~60 EUR per year in sales (ebay, Amazon) and it gives you access to ~250 games. EA Access is something similar, ~70 EA games for 25 Eur per year.

    some infos that could be useful:

  • this list shows which Xbox OG and Xbox 360 games are working on a Xbox One as well : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_backward_compatible_games_for_Xbox_One

  • these games are included in EA Access (costs 25 EUR a year) : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EA_Access

  • All the games currently in Xbox Game Pass : https://www.windowscentral.com/xbox-game-pass-list

  • Gamepass is 1 Dollar/Euro for three months for new customers currently if activated until 23rd of May. Make sure to turn off the 'automatic renewal' after subscribing for the three months offer (see next point for easiest way to handle this).

  • the best way to manage your Xbox/Microsoft Account including subscriptions is with a web browser : https://account.microsoft.com/account/manage-my-account

  • List of games that can be played with Mouse/Keyboard on an Xbox One (it's a newer feature, not many games support it yet) : https://www.windowscentral.com/list-xbox-one-mouse-and-keyboard-games

  • List of Play Anywhere games (if bought on Xbox or in the Windows Microsoft Store, one game license makes you play the game on both platforms : https://www.windowscentral.com/play-anywhere-list (Your Windows 10 account must be the same as you Xbox account for that to work).

  • ebay and Amazon is the usual place to snatch up used Discs of Xbox 360 and Xbox One games. Microsoft also has sales several times a year for their digital store(like Steam sales). You can also sometimes buy Xbox digital keys for some games for cheap at ebay. i.e. everybody owns Assassins Creed Unity, as the digital key costs only 2 Euro on ebay ;)

  • to buy cheap yearly (or for 3 months or six months) subscriptions to Game Pass, EA Access and Live Gold, check ebay and the usual Amazon Sales.

  • The controller uses regular AA batteries. Buy something like this, it will save you money in the long term : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00339NINQ

  • There is an Xbox App for Windows 10 which is useful, also there is an Xbox App for Android and iOS.

  • subscribe to r/xboxone/ to stay informed about anything regarding Xbox One. Quite a lot of people with a 'normal' Xbox One in that sub, not everybody has a One S or One X ;)
u/19b34413f6f60afd6e4c · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Note: I'm not a flashlight geek, just lurking - but I feel compelled to point out some things from that perspective...

You're talking about an AAA pen light (1 or 2 AAAs, right?) so there's pretty close to zero chance of it being what anyone would consider "high performance." If you want maximal light output you'd be way way way better off picking a different type of light with a more robust power source.

But for AAAs it's really not too hard : Alkalines for cheap, LSD NiMh for a rechargeable option, or Lithium for special use cases. Ignore "Heavy Duty" batteries except maybe in desperation or for nostalgia. There really aren't other options readily available for AAAs.

FWIW, I'm currently using a Coast G19 which I like a lot compared to the generic crap I've previously used. It's bright enough and well focused (almost zero spill), tough enough to get stepped on etc. - and I've even managed to get it back from everyone who has borrowed it. (so far)

Battery-wise, I took a coupon to the local Harbor Freight store and picked up a pack of $3.99/24 AAA alkalines. I used two in a wireless mouse. When it reported a low battery level I took them out and put one in my light. It's been working for occasional use well over 6 months, with no signs of giving up yet. I think it'll be hard to beat that. (except maybe for using the 9Volts I remove annually from smoke detectors with one of these

If I was in very-low-temp conditions, cared a lot about saving weight, or couldn't easily replace the battery and needed high reliability (long wilderness trips?) I'd use a disposable lithium AAA - like these from Energizer … at about 10x the cost of alkalines.

Using NiMh, I've had "mixed" experience with performance, but that's probably because I was using super-cheap lights. If my light happens to disappear after being "borrowed" I'd just as soon not lose a good battery too. But if I used my light super frequently, and wanted to give two shits about the environment, they'd probably be a decent choice.

Anyway - hope that helps some.

u/plethoraofpinatas · 4 pointsr/flashlight

Any light using lithium batteries will have a ten year storage life or better. Of course, do use an l.e.d. light and not krypton, halogen, or an incandescant bulb since they are so inefficient and hard on batteries. In regards to the cold, it only helps storage life. Like any battery, once brought to room temperature the battery is back to full power and while in cold storage it probably gained some storage life.

Crank lights are notorious for cheapness and being undependable. For the dependability and price of alternatives, crank lights are nothing better than a novelty. Buy them for fun but don't count on them. That is why even the most expensive go for around $20.00 US. A quality l.e.d. light with lithium batteries in it and a spare set of lithium batteries should cover most long term storage and emergency needs if you don't want to pursue an alternative power source.

If you really want to be ready for longer situations:

To provide power for long term power outages and have juice for: AM/FM radio's, cell phones, CB/VHF/GMRS/FRS radio's, flashlights/lanterns, laptops, etc., then a small solar power supply and bank of rechargeable batteries is necessary and not that expensive (see below). If you convert all battery powered devices in your home to rechargeable batteries and have a compliment of pre-charged backups, they can be moved from household use to emergency equipment and in your bag quickly before "bugging out". This way you save money from using rechargeable's instead of disposables in daily life and have removable bug out power storage as a bonus. If the power goes out and you stay in, then of course you don't have to move them and they are there waiting for use and re-application.



So let's say you are into the really serious bug out bag. Nickel metal hydride batteries such as Sanyo's Eneloop's are the way to go. While similar to most rechargeable batteries you have seen, these only have 10% PER YEAR discharge rates and can be recharged 1,500 times. Just ridiculous. The easiest way to tell these apart from the regular nickel metal rechargeables (which discharge more like 10% per month) is the addition of the tag line "pre-charged" on the label.

Add a portable solar charger such as this or this, maybe this. Add an extra couple of sets of batteries, and you are set for any potential long term "grid down" situation. If you choose electronic devices that all use similar batteries such as the very common "AA's" as much as possible - you also keep life simple by being able to choose larger collections of the same batteries. GMRS/FRS radio's can be had in AAA or AA, flashlights in AAA/AA/or a half dozen others, AM/FM radio's in AAA or AA...choose the same power source (read:AA) and the collection becomes much easier.

The going thing now is USB chargers on solar panels. That is why the Sanyo battery kit/charger I linked to has one (a USB connector). You can charge all batteries, cell phones, laptops, etc. with the solar chargers listed.

If you convert your remotes and all other battery devices at home to rechargeable's instead of expensive disposable's - you not only save money every year but you also have a large selection of rechargeable batteries to dip into and "recharge" nearly indefinitely with a solar charger of your choice. Why buy to prepare for a "maybe use" situation when you can "regularly use", save money, and add that to your "bug out" collection at any time? Alkaline's are now old technology with the invention of the low discharge Sanyo batteries. There is really no reason to buy an alkaline anymore when you can buy these rechargeable's, save money, and they can also be topped off - "off the grid" with a solar charger (at home in the yard or bugging out) with just the sun.

u/crespire · 2 pointsr/analog

That's a great deal if the camera works. The SRT 102 has a match needle meter system, but you can operate the camera fully manually without a battery in it, as it is a fully mechanical shutter and aperture system.

In terms of what to check for for the SRT-102 specifically.

  1. About half way through the production (or early on, I'm not sure of the details), Minolta stopped making them with the mirror lockup option. If that's important for you, make sure the one you're looking at has it.

  2. Check to see if the mirror is stuck. As mentioned, if your model has a lockup, make sure that isn't engaged. If the mirror sticks after shooting, it may be that the bumper is degraded.

  3. Shutter issues - the SRT102 has a cloth shutter, so make sure it's in good condition. If you have access to the camera before buying it, I'd highly recommend you shoot blanks (without film with the back open) to verify the magnitude of the shutter speeds (ie, 1/8 isn't the same sound as 1/250 isn't the same as 1/1000). Also look to see if the entire shutter curtain operates properly.

  4. Check the light sealing, as it may need to be replaced.

  5. Check the depth of field preview to make sure it's smooth and functioning. The SRT-102's works on a toggle. Push the tab in, and it will preview the DoF and button remains depressed. Press it again to release it (kind of like a ball point pen).

  6. If the camera is mechanically sound (shutter is fine, film advance is smooth and not grindy, DoF preview is good) then I'd say 90$ is a great price for it, especially with that Rokkor-X f/1.4 nifty fifty. Is the glass clean?

  7. If you care about the meter, verify its function both by using/bringing a mercury replacement cell and using the "B.C." function on the bottom of the camera. Also look through the glass to see if your exposure is approximately right (use sunny 16 or an external meter to verify). Also, this is a good opportunity to check if the battery terminals are mucky and shitty.
u/funbob · 8 pointsr/amateurradio

At that budget level, you're going to be looking at more budget oriented radios from the likes of Baofeng, TYT, QYT, Leixn, and the other assorted Chinese manufacturers. The one you mentioned is not a bad choice, so let's run with that...

  • Radio - $128.86

  • 8Ah SLA battery - $17.77

    -or-

  • 20Ah SLA battery if you don't mind the extra size and weight - $38.00

  • Battery charger - $21.85

  • You'll need an antenna. I'm guessing you don't have a vehicle to attach a mobile antenna too, so I'd recommend something that attaches directly to the back of the radio, like this antenna. I actually have one and it's surprisingly decent for the price. - $12.99

  • You'll need a right angle PL-259 to BNC adapter to properly attach this antenna to your radio - $7.49

    side note: For a mag mount antenna, the Tram 1185 is a good cheap option at $21.63

    additional side note: Neither one of these antennas I mentioned is tri band capable, they're dual band 2m/70cm only. Tri band 2m/1.25/70cm antennas are considerably more expensive. Unless there's regular 1.25m activity in your area, you may wish to reconsider your need for having this band.

    Total: $188.96 or $209.19 if you choose the 20Ah battery option.

    Use whatever is left over for a case. A nice Pelican will probably consume the rest of your budget. Or you could go down to your local sporting goods store and browse the handgun cases there. You'll probably be able to find something good for $15-30 and have a few bucks left over. I found this 4 pistol case at my local Sportsmans Warehouse, it's cheap, reaonably well built, and is a pretty good size. I can fit a small army of handheld radios and associated paraphernalia in mine, so it should be big enough to hold a mobile rig plus battery.
u/MagneticGray · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

The AAA is the better option. You still get pretty much the same battery life and you save weight.

Here’s what I believe are the lightest AAAs you can buy and here’s the adapters you’ll need to use them. I like that kit because it comes with 12 adapters (so you can also switch things like your TV remotes and household wall clocks over to cheap AAA and save some cash in the long run) and also the storage case that’s included is actually pretty nice.

If you’re in the US and you’re interested in swapping the shell over to a 3D printed version with honeycomb holes then let me know and I’ll share the link where you can buy them already printed.

u/thalassicus · 1 pointr/BurningMan

These guys are a great resource to learn about solar. It's geared toward RVs, but because they aren't tech people, the information is very digestible which I like. This video shows them with a 6 panel array drawing 45amps during the day at peak hours.

Chances are, if you go a-la-carte with something like these portable solar panels as a base, and ran a few of these deep cycle batteries in parallel, you'll save some money and be able to better tune the system to your needs. You'll still need a solar controller and if you want 120v plugs, an inverter, but it should be a fun project.

u/Wizbomb · 1 pointr/MouseReview

I used to be a G502 palm user at 18.5x9 but took a chance on the small ambidextrous g305 and while at first use it felt a bit odd this mouse has just been fucking incredible for me. I can't get away from it, I have tried to use other ergonomic mice and just cant, they never feel as natural to me. I did switch my grip up to a more claw shape and that made it just as comfortable as ergo.

I also have had it for about 3 months now and it is still at 100% charge...I mean what black magic fuckery did Logitech use on this mouse?

I have since recommended it to friends and they love its shape and weight. If you do go for the g305 I suggest picking up these two items from amazon: AAA converter - Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAA Batteries.

This will save on weight and it doesn't seem to hurt the battery life at all.

u/10GuyIsDrunk · 18 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

This is a great mouse and everything, but 90%+ gamers are probably going to get a lot more value out of a Logitech G305 (not currently on sale) with a Lithium AAA and half of a AAA to AA adapter to keep it snug, it's light with a great modern sensor, the wired Pros body form, and great battery life (even with that mentioned AAA battery).

I realize a lot of people know about this, but I figure it's worth mentioning all the same. If money is no issue for you though, by all means, you'll be happy with the Pro wireless too. But this isn't a great sale on it to begin with.

u/pyromaster114 · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

First off, to answer your question:

That's almost certainly a flooded battery. It's probably a, "maintenance free" flooded battery. This simply means of course, that it's a piece of junk because you can never add water to it. It'll still off-gas like a normal flooded one though. So not good for indoor use really.

​

Second, you don't want those batteries:

You really need something that's actually deep cycle, not one of those 'hybrid' types used for starting a motor and running a few lights on a boat. You can tell because it states the "CCA" or Cold Cranking Amps. This is a starter battery, not a true deep cycle. It's also a very cheap one, which doesn't bode well for it's performance either in your application.

I'd advise you return those batteries and buy some good, true deep cycle, AGM batteries.

​

This is more in line with what you want, most likely:

Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12V

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/

​

EDIT:

So, here's an (well, maybe) easy test: Pick up the battery and shake it around. If the battery 'sloshes' like it's full of water, then it's flooded for sure. If it doesn't... well, no guarantee either way still.

Note, this will take quite a bit of strength, careful not to hurt yourself.

​

EDIT 2:

So, I've called the local Advance Auto Parts here in my town, and they THINK it's an AGM battery... though the lady didn't sound too sure. Still looking for a data sheet though, that's the only thing I'd trust at the moment without seeing the battery myself.

u/bcphotog · 4 pointsr/ar15

It wasn't horrible battery life, but it wasn't great like my T2, which has battery life measured in years.

It's kinda confusing at first, the XPS2 & EXPS2 are the non night vision models with the CR123 batteries. The "E" models have a riser plate for clearing something like laser device. The XPS3 & EXPS3 are the night vision compatible models. The number after the model number, like if it says XPS2-0, is the designator for the reticle.

I picked the XPS2 originally because i had other gear (my headlamp & M300) that used the CR123 battery as well. I rather have one battery type if possible in my bag, as opposed to having to remember to bring multiple types of batteries.

If you get one that uses CR123 batteries, get a 12 pack on Amazon like this one, it'll be much cheaper than buying them in store at Walmart or Walgreens. If you go that route, get a battery caddy to keep things organized in your range bag.

Hope that helps a bit!

u/joergonix · 1 pointr/solar

Thank you so much! That is incredibly helpful information.

Hypothetically if I were planning to spend about $700 on the solar setup and batteries do you think I would be smarter to save a bit of money on the controller by going PWM rather and MPPT and put it into an extra panel? I could do 3 panels, and 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S1RT58C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488126321&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+solar+battery AGM 12v 100ah batteries. Price would be similar to the golf cart batteries. Would this setup be an improvement?

Also found a good deal on a DC fridge that consumes about 4.2amps which at 12v would be about 50watts and should theoretically be awesome for my setup right?

Do you think

u/admiralallah_ackbar · 1 pointr/solar

I was actually looking at a 12v 5aH alarm battery that fits the dimensions of the remaining space of the box. it's an SLA but I wish I could find a gel cell with the same dimensions. As for the panel, I've settle on not being able to run the amp on it, but I am pretty certain I can fit a big enough panel for a trickle charge that will at least extend the life of the battery when the lid is open. To fully recharge in a reasonable amount of time I guess I'll just hook it up to my motorcycle tender.

Key here is space for the battery and being able to fit it in the lid for the panel, kind of limits my options but I've been enjoying the learning experience of learning about solar and refreshing on some basics.

u/tatertom · 7 pointsr/vandwellers

With a budget of $400, I'd start with a small Alpicool for around $200. That's a good price on those, and they sip around 1/2 amp/hour@12v, meaning you'll need at least 36Ah of battery (.5Ax24hx3d).

Bump to 50Ah of usable power, for some wiggle room, and you can pick up something like this for $170.

The only other thing you'll need is wiring. A kit like this has most of what you need, toss in a cheap manual isolator to keep it from draining your starter battery, and you're left with a few crimp connectors and maybe a socket (might as well get a kinda-nice one).

That puts you $10 over-budget, but it'll do everything you asked for and more, and be a nice little setup to expand someday with solar or inverter or whatever. If you can score a cheaper second-hand battery initially, that'll help budget-wise, but I wouldn't bother skimping on anything else except maybe the 12v socket. The one I linked is just a nice feature to have USB and volt meter built-in, so you can reduce cord/adapter clutter if you like, and have an idea where you're at on power reserves, monitoring it manually. Downgrading that to a simple, "dumb" socket would put you within the $400 budget.

u/Coltsbro84 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I would see what mah the batteries are, but they don't say. Most Nyko products are low, while AA Energizer Rechargeables are what I use and recommend. 2300mah batteries will last more than 40 hours of use without a recharge, where 400mah batteries, most likely the ones here, only last around 7 hours of use without a recharge. Most stores sell the four pack AA Energizer with charger for under $15.00, a better deal in my mind.

Edit: here is the link to the Energizers on sale at Amazon. Although I think these are the 2000mah batteries and not the higher 2300mah batteries, they are still very good.

u/ohwowgee · 1 pointr/sysadmin

hahaha! Awesome.

Well, here's some options, AAAA's aren't too expensive from....Amazon of all places?! http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Everyday-Alkaline-Batteries-8-Pack/dp/B00LH3DTYS 8x for $4.50 - $5.30 isn't horrible. If you want to buy my Dell Venue 8 Pro it'll come with 6x free AAAA batteries! lol

Also! Fun fact, some 9V batteries also use a series of AAAA batteries to hit 9v (6x of them).

u/krustyy · 4 pointsr/vandwellers

I'm going to try to make this easy for you. Here is a setup that will provide you with some basic solar power. Don't expect to run your laptop 24/7 , but this will give you plenty of juice to get a few creature comforts in place and you'd probably be able to keep a business class laptop going all day with it.

u/darklord413 · 4 pointsr/xboxone

You might try a Play & Charge kit, but I don't think they have actual batter recharging stations like that. What you could do is just get rechargeable AA batteries. I can recommend Eneloop, this kit here seems like it'd be pretty good.

u/Ditchmag · 6 pointsr/WindowsMR

Vrcover for sure
And don't get the PK Cell, get these

USB Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V/1500mAh Lithium Ion AA Battery with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable 1.5h Quick-Charge Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection Double A Batteries(4 Pack)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JBc7CbNV06EYV

Or these

CT ENERGY USB Rechargeable AA Batteries 1.5V/1600mAh Lithium ion Battery with 1.5 Hours Quick Charging Micro-USB Port Li-ion Double A Batteries (4packs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3DBYV7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sCc7Cb0R2DXZZ

I have both and they are great batteries.

Extensions that work:

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H90L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lDc7CbBE9E1R5

6ft


Cable Matters 200008-BLACK-6 USB to USB Extension Cable in Black 6 Feet Available 3FT 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ODc7CbA4Q82ZZ

6ft

And I like to use the usb-c port on my laptop. It's closer to the HDMI and seems like a stronger port when using the usb extension.

AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8Dc7CbJA5TMTV

u/Matthieu101 · 0 pointsr/gamernews

>http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004I8II22/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1376521564&sr=8-2&pi=SL75

Looks like you didn't quite read your own link... 10 bucks for a single battery. Now let's have a little comparison.

>http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00339NINQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1376521711&sr=8-5&pi=SL75

Four batteries plus the charger? For four more dollars? And doesn't require a USB cable or a wall adapter or Playstation 3 to charge?

Yeah that's substantially cheaper.

I'll do you a favor, I looked it up and found the same battery for five bucks total. Not bad.

However, you can get four Energizer batteries for a little over 10 dollars anywhere they sell batteries.

So each battery is half of what the Playstation 3 one is. Like I said, substantially cheaper.

>I fail to see your point sorry..... Oh and here is a little present:

>http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0sRT4h_YMQ4

>If you consider that hard to do, then your intelligence is really lacking and there's truly no other reason to continue this discussion.

I said it was more difficult, not that it was impossible to do. You're not refuting anything.

Also, you do realize this voids the warranty. Good luck getting a replacement if you try this.

>
I'm sorry you are stuck with tons of devices which operate on your precious AA's, I only have my TV remote and Direct TV controller that use such trinkets.

Once again, this refutes nothing about what I said.

>Sorry for the bad grammar I'm on my Iphone which uses one of those proprietary non-removable batteries which make life easier, maybe they should make a phone which uses AA's so you don't have to look for charger!

I'm on a phone too... It's not difficult to have proper spelling and grammar.

For some reason, you really, really want it to sound like these built in batts are some massive innovation but they're really not. It uses the exact same tech to make the Energizer ones and they're nearly identical when it comes down to the performance.

What exactly makes these built in batteries so amazing? What can they do that AA's can't? Just answer that and maybe you'll have a leg to stand on in this little debate. Because so far all you've given me is, "It plugs in to the console!" Big whoop, that's not really a big deal.

u/abdullahcfix · 1 pointr/techsupport

Thanks for the reply.

>Rechargeable batteries are different, they put out fill power all the way until the end and then just die.

Yes, I'd rather have that then the sound slowly degrading and being unbearable.

>i'd save the hassle and go with a good brand like Duracell or Energizer rechargeable ones, 2400mah

I had the impression that Panasonic Eneloops were great and reliable batteries from the many websites talking about them and people's reviews all over Amazon. What do you think? Are those not good?

What about this one? What do you think about the top review on that battery/charger combo?

u/sdrdude · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

I use lithiums too.

When Ni-Zn rechargables have a longer track-record, I'll probably give them a try. My concerns are I have read about leaks. Also Ni-Zn currently require a special charger. Once Ni-Zn batteries have been out a while it'll be safer. The additional voltage is a nice feature for the controllers.

For now, I use these lithiums >> USB Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V/1500mAh Lithium Ion AA Battery with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable 1.5h Quick-Charge Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection Double A Batteries(4 Pack)

and I really love how they charge with a little usb-octopus cable -- and the batteries individually light up to show if they're charging (red) or fully charged (green). It's no-brainer easy.

u/badluckjohnson · 2 pointsr/analog

Wein Cell makes a great replacement for the original mercury battery. I'll provide the link below. The battery is the only one that is accurate, and is not too costly. I don't know how long the battery lasts, I hear it usually goes for 3 months before the battery wains. The camera can also shoot fully manual, with no battery in the camera at all. It's very handy for learning to shoot film, and also if the battery runs out you're not completely out of luck. I'd highly recommend the camera, I found it for $70 on eBay in very good condition, only needed new light seals. I love my camera, definitely look into it. http://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7

u/0000oo_oo0000 · 3 pointsr/preppers

I am going to echo others who suggested that it might be a good idea to prepare a way (or several ways!) to heat food without fire. No point in storing all that rice if you have no plans to cook it. For a bug-in grid-down situation, my plan involves a set of 12 volt deep cycle batteries (which will become part of my battery bank when I eventually save enough money to go solar) and a 400 watt inverter as a power source for a small slow cooker (90 watt) or a small rice cooker (300 watt). What I like about this system is:

It's very effective for boiling water, cooking stored grain, canned food, etc.
It is very quiet, just a little bit of a hum from the inverter fan, unlike a noisy generator, which could attract uninvited guests.
Can safely be used indoors without risk of CO fumes, although you do want to be very careful with any sort of lead acid battery - keep it in a protective container.

Only drawback I see is you do need access to clean drinking water (for cooking and/or clean-up afterwards) and you need to keep lead acid batteries charged or they lose power over time. Stored and maintained properly, this could be a good prep for folks in apartments.

u/PROLAPSED_SUBWOOFER · 9 pointsr/ebikes

They're fucked, must've used the wrong charger for them, or the charger malfunctioned. They won't explode, but I doubt they will be useful for more than like 2 miles.

Good news: It's not too terribly expensive to replace them: https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12200-12V-20AH-Lead_Acid_Battery/dp/B00KC39BE6

Though I'd 100% upgrade to LiFePo4 batteries instead, a drop in upgrade no modifications needed: https://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/products/12v-20ah-lithium-ion-battery/

LiFePo is superior Wh/kg and will last you pretty much forever.

u/archover · 1 pointr/flashlight

> complete noob in the matter.

You and me, both!

Welcome!

Two important things I learned here:

  • The incredible value and functionality/performance that Li-ion batteries bring.

  • How generally overpriced and underpowered retail lights are, compared to the value and performance of companies like Convoy, Wowtac and Thorfire. (Those are just the ones I have first hand knowledge of)

    Looking at my Amazon history, these were the batteries I ran in my pre /r/flashlight flashlights. Never again!
u/lirakis · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

If you want a single battery, get a 100ah lithium iron phosphate... its gonna cost you though...

AGM batteries are only useful for 50% of their advertised AH rating vs like 80%+ for Lifepo, also lifepo are lighter weight, and have more recharge cycles.

I run 2 of these right now to get 100 useful AH, and I am hopeful that in ~3 years when its time to get new batteries the cost of LifePo will have come down b/c they really are vastly superior in every way.

u/likeabaws69 · 1 pointr/diyaudio


I'd really like to find something that can stand on its own without a sub, since none of my groomsmen will have a sub. Other than the Sprites, it looks like the rest of those were designed to be paired w/ a sub.

I saw the Sprites original design was a boombox, which I thought was pretty cool. I think that would be the most practical form that my groomsmen would use. Then I got to thinking, if it's going to be a boombox it needs to have bluetoof and I need to fit an amp and battery. Here's what I came up w/:

speakers $42.70
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd90-8-3-1-2-aluminum-cone-full-range-driver-8-ohm--290-210

port tubes $5.14
http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-1-3-8-id-adjustable--260-388

filter parts $17.19
http://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-090mh-20-awg-air-core-inductor-crossover-coil--255-046
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dnr-20-20-ohm-10w-precision-audio-grade-resistor--004-20

amp $16.99
https://www.amazon.com/INSMA-TDA7492P-Amplifier-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1467991447&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+speaker+amp+board

battery $15
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1250-Alarm-Battery-Terminals/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1468001600&sr=8-7&keywords=12v+sla+battery

battery charger $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LICD2TU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATW4RRWB3JMSM

u/SadXbox · 1 pointr/xbox360

>I recently bought a play and charge kit from eBay...the battery won't charge...Does anyone have a solution?

if the item was sold as new and/or in working condition, return it. eBay has pretty favorable buyer protection. if it was sold as-is, you are out of luck.

in addition to a stand-alone charging station, your choices are as follows:

u/guberburger · 1 pointr/analog

I can’t speak to the F3, but I love my Canonet. I have an earlier model QL17 with a 45mm lens. I have only used the wein cell battery and my light meter has been very accurate. I usually point towards the ground to meter for shadows and then manually set my exposure.

Previously, I have only shot on canon DSLRs. I have really enjoyed working with a rangefinder. I did a first impressions post in the rangefinders subreddit and all of my posts on analog have been from my Canonet.

Just my 2 cents!

u/I_Submit_This · 5 pointsr/mflb

this is a very good deal, these are the original stock batts for the MFLB.

the best amazon can do:

u/jacco1995 · 1 pointr/vandwellers

So easy and so worth it. When you install an aux battery, change the power source for your van's inverter to it.

Isolator Relay: https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0

AGM Battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C or Something comparable

Voltage monitor (very helpful!): www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_bxgy_23_3

100A fuse

2-4 gauge wire

terminal ends

A voltimeter is very helpful in finding a wire that runs > 12v while the car is running. Have one, buy one, borrow one, etc. This was really the only challenging part of the installation because you have to test multiple wires for voltage.

Once you're done installing it you'll be able to comment on these posts and tell people how wonderful and easy it is too!

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

So, I agree with everyone else. It depends a lot on how long you want to run it for... and how much you want to spend.

If you want to do this once, and roughly 20-30 minutes of run time is long enough, then this should work:
http://www.amazon.com/Rayovac-926-Lantern-Battery-General/dp/B000ROFZFE

It's a bit big for a pocket, but the price is right... Snip the wall connector plug to the LED and then attach it to the terminals. Just make double-sure you get the polarity correct (positive to positive, negative to negative) on the plug. If you do it backwards, bad things will likely happen.

If you want to do this more than once or twice, I'd personally recommend, calling up or emailing batteryspace.com and asking them (http://www.batteryspace.com/contactus.aspx). If you can find out what the connector is on the LED string - and the polarity of it (always key), then ask batteryspace to make a custom 12V NiMH pack for that connector and then ask for a charger for it as well.

This will run it for about 20 minutes and will get pretty warm in the process and probably would fit in a big pocket (smaller than the Rayovac cell though).
http://www.batteryspace.com/customizednimhbatterypack12v2200mah10xaa.aspx
with this charger:
http://www.batteryspace.com/smartcharger07afor84v-12vnimhbatterypack--ullisted.aspx

If you want to run it longer, then you'll need a bigger (more expensive pack). If you want it to weigh less or be small, then you'll need to switch to a lithium polymer pack. But see what batteryspace.com recommends. If you tell them what you want, they can make it for you. And, no, I'm not associated with them.

As an alternative, I've used these guys too (different company, different batteries, but same type of thing...):
http://www.all-battery.com/

u/GlockAndLoad · 1 pointr/Glocks

Thanks! I like your 17 as well, and I'm sure you like the 650 lumens you're pushing out of that 1HL.

http://www.amazon.com/Surefire-Pack-Boxed-Lithium-Batteries/dp/B0035HB694

I found these at a decent price. Good suggestion.

u/Other_Western · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Depends on your needs. Renogy has great kits at decent prices, you can get the parts a bit cheaper off Amazon but then there's no warranty.

If you're just looking to charge stuff and run a fridge and water pump, 200w is a good place to start. Get the panels, tape them up on the roof using VHB tape (seriously, it's the best way to do it without punching a shitload of holes in the roof, and the tape is extremely strong).

Follow the wiring diagram from Renogy for wiring up the batteries (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ are the cheapest watt/dollar that you'll find for sealed batteries. I'd recommend sealed over unsealed, adding water etc is a pain in the ass and if you forget the batteries are dead) and the inverter.

Remember, every wire exiting a power source must have a fuse within the first two feet of wire, and every wire must be gauged to handle the max amp load it will face, and must be fused at less than that gauge wire is rated for. Follow those three rules and it'll all be safe if not necessarily pretty. Good luck, and feel free to ask me any questions if they come up!

u/must_ache · 1 pointr/overlanding

I'd just put the biggest marine deep cycle battery I can fit as my starting battery, (probably group 31) and get a $100 lithium jump pack in case I ran it down.

Or

You can build your own goal zero type portable battery setup for$200-400. The Yeti 400 is a 33ah 12v AGM deep cycle battery with 300w sine wave inverter and a 12v plug in. It also has features like low battery alarm, displays power usage, and comes with an AC charger. You won't save much $ making it smaller/less powerful, but it will weigh less if you'd like to use a smaller than 33ah battery.

$50-150 for an AGM deep cycle 12v battery, 33ah

$75-150 for a 300w pure sine wave inveter, you can save more money if you don't need pure sine wave or 300w, or don't mind an always on fan

$25-50 for a 12v trickle charger to charge the battery up at home, if you don't have a charger already

$15 for a male to male 12v adapter to charge it from your car, or use your jumper cables.

$10-20 for a 12v socket or two, or a USB charger socket

$10-50 for a battery case to hold the battery and mount the inverter and sockets on

$30 on misc parts like voltage display, wire, and fuses

u/mydarkerside · 1 pointr/solar

You'll want an AGM deep cycle battery, not standard car battery. Doesn't really matter what the terminals are like since you can always buy different terminal types. I bought two of these from Amazon for about $170 each before tax and have been happy with them. I've also looked into used lithium batteries from medical devices, but it gets more complicated because you need a battery management system.

It gets expensive if you build a 400ah system, so I would look more into energy efficient devices or solutions. I did a google search for raising chickens in cold weather and it actually says don't over insulate or heat the coop. You said oneconcern is the water freezing, so maybe just focus on that.

u/hazeyindahead · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

USB Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V/1500mAh Lithium Ion AA Battery with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable 1.5h Quick-Charge Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection Double A Batteries(4 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LVWTDbM5EP6YB

I would probably get a day or so out of energizer rechargeables as well.

Now I get a week if I play heavily. I bought these is September and only had to recharge them once when I wanted to play.

u/joseb · 1 pointr/flashlight

I recently added LED lighting to my closet and gun-cabinet using these:

LED Strip

In the closet I added a motion sensor (this one)
and a power adapter for 120v to 12v. Has tons of light and it's awesome having it be motion activated.

In the gun cabinet I used the same style LED strip, but am running it off of a battery (this one) and a toggle switch.

I could easily run another motion sensor in the cabinet though, that might work out better for your scenario. If you have the room for the battery you can just secure it with some double-sided tape, add the motion sensor and have it run an entire strip of the LEDs (it'll be very bright), though you might only need a few sections of LED.

u/HeeyMaan028215816 · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

Get it and also make sure you purchase quality batteries to per your motion controllers. I couldn't believe how I'd kill expensive lithium disposable batteries in less then a day of heavy use.

I saw someone post on here about purchasing these batteries with a positive review.


https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Batteries-Quick-Charge-Integrated-Protection/dp/B07F27PK2M

I couldn't be happier that I bought a set for my controllers.

I get 3 days of 5-7 hour moderate usage before they need a recharge and should last a little over two years of they actually reach the 1000 cycle recharge limit claimed. My tracking has improved as well. There is a significant difference in how bright the controllers are compared to brand new Energizer lithium Ions when installed and turned on right next to each other.

u/nimajneb · 1 pointr/analog

Make sure it's not in A mode when testing. If you don't have a battery it and it's in A it won't fire the shutter. It should when in manual mode though. If it works $50 is a nice price. It's a great camera. I like mine a lot. I stopped putting a battery in mine though, it's not really worth it and the meter probably need calibration. You can get a Wein cell from Amazon though.

u/melcrose · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F27PK2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

have been an absolute dream for me. I was going through a set of energizers a DAY playing no man's sky.. these get me through the same amount of time and I just plug them in overnight. Great lights on them telling you when charged and never had a low battery warning. LOVE THEM.

u/RJ30 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

thanks for your help!

would a battery like this be suitable to brightly light up the strip?
http://www.amazon.com/Rayovac-926-Lantern-Battery-General/dp/B000ROFZFE

u/cheech_sp · 4 pointsr/EDC

A good 12v usb charger (2.4 amp or 4.2 amp).

USB AA charger.

Spare AAs and flashlight in your glovebox.

I would learn how to use your smart phone with voice controls. And see if you have a way to hook your phone into your car radio.

Audiobooks.

u/Bfedorov91 · 1 pointr/DIY

I added one of these batteries and am running them in parallel with the original. It will fit in the front truck with a little trimming. Also had to run new wires. Combined with the original battery (or even alone), it runs for days as the linked battery is almost twice the capacity as the original. Also is a bit faster as there is less voltage drop. People also recommend a better charger.

If you do get one, don't run it with the old worn out battery. It will drain the new one faster. If you wanted to run two, you could buy another oem replacement battery as the one I linked will not fit in the rear trunk.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KC39BE6

u/thebunnyrules · 1 pointr/osugame

FIX FOR HEAVY WEIGHTED PEN: =============================

Since most of the pen weight is comming from the AAA battery which I'm assuming is an alkaline cell, you probably can reduce pen weight by getting a lighter Lithium Ion battery.

There are two assumptions that I'm making here: pen battery is regular alkaline rechargeable and the voltage is 1.5v. If I'm wrong and it's actually Lithium, voltage could be as high as 3.4V. Someone with a multimeter can check this out. If I buy pad, I'll update.

So, supposing my assumptions are correct, you need to make sure that you have the right voltage before looking for lighter battery as lithium AAA comes in 1.5 and 3.4v. You also need to make sure the lithium AAA is 44mm high because.

Looking into it, I found typical LiIon weight was about 33% to 66% of the weight of the typical NiMH/alkaline ones.

Pack of 5 duracels non-rechargeable alkaline weigh 114g including packaging (home depot). Pack of 5 energizer non-rechargeable Li-Ion weigh 41g (amazon).

duracel alk AAA weight/cell = 18-21g (depending on packaging weight) energizer Li-Ion AAA weight = 5-8g (depends of packaging) rechargeable Lion weight = 9-12g (found on Amazon)

These don't state whether they are rechargeable or not but could be worth it if they don't drain too fast just for the light weight consideration (5-8g 1.5v):
https://www.amazon.ca/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-L92BP-4-Battery/dp/B0002DUQDQ

Sunlabz Rechargeable (8-11.3g/cell, 1.2v) https://www.amazon.com/SunLabz-1000mAh-NiMH-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00J18PFIO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478843835&sr=8-3&keywords=AAA%2Blithium%2Brechargeable&th=1

Seems to me the lower the capcity, the lighter it's going to be.

YOU'RE WELCOME!

u/jkmugs · 0 pointsr/mflb

As far as I know the launch box is the only vape that uses AAs. Here's some cheap ones I like better than the regular magic flight batteries (just have to take the casing off)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9F27GV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W.xBCbHEMF1C7

u/phineas1134 · 2 pointsr/boating

A few odds and ends I've added to mine over the years that got more use than expected:

  • A good quality pair of small scissors
  • A lighter
  • A few different sizes of safety pins
  • a small diverse selection of nuts bolts and screws
  • A tube or two of cheap dollar store super glue
  • A couple of glow sticks
  • A roll of shop towels
  • A good/tough little flashlight, with lithium batteries in it. Lithium batteries (I have learned the hard way) don't leak after long periods of sitting like akalines, and will also give you longer run times.
  • A small can of bug spray
  • A spare winch strap for my trailer
  • A telescoping magnet to pick up stuff that fell down the bilge
  • A few spare caribiners
  • A few discrectly stowed single shot bottles of rum

u/Baron164 · 1 pointr/sailing

Yes, just a day sailor.

I found the book on Amazon so I'll definitely order it and give it a good read.

This wire is about $90 for 100ft of 12awg triplex wire.
https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Marine-Grade-Duplex-Cables/dp/B000NV2AVS

And would a single 100Ah battery like this one be sufficient with a 50W solar panel for what I'm trying to do?
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/

u/ExpertCommission4sdf · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Only real adjustments to this I'd suggest; for charging off the car's alternator, just go with a solenoid. It's cheaper, won't drain your car's battery at all (the smart isolaters do draw a small amount of power all the time), and if you can give your car a jump start if needed by turning the key and letting the house battery charge the car battery. And there's no downsides. Smart isolaters are a waste imo.


Also, save $30 and get the unbranded version of that battery. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C

Same specs I believe so it's probably even made in the same factory in China. I've had great results with mine the past few years

u/LemonHerb · 2 pointsr/EntExchange

What?

Powerex PRO High Capacity Rechargeable AA NiMH Batteries (1.2V, 2700mAh) - 4-Pack, (MHRAA4PRO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9F27GV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pGExCbAA5GMAX

Most places I searched these were recommended for the mflb. And for the record they work perfectly fine

Edit: you can see mflb recommends them here. https://www.magic-flight.com/batteries.php

u/SMStotheworld · 2 pointsr/TheSilphRoad

belt it around the sole of your left foot depending on your shoe size or the palm of your left hand while driving. that's when the pogo+ is most useful. when you're at home hanging out, catch manually. the pogo+ only has a 30-40% chance of catching successfully, and won't be altered by your medals. you also do not get the bonus for first catch, accuracy, or curve.

the pogo+ can only use regular pokeballs because niantic is retarded, so if you have 0 red balls and hundreds of greats and ultras, you cannot catch any pokemon with the pogo+, so make sure your supply of these is nice and high.

save normal balls for the pogo+. switch your default catches manually to great/ultra.

make sure you buy a pack of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XBK7PG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


there's a really small screw in the back of the pogo+ you need to undo first. if you have an eyeglass repair kit with a phillips, that ought to work. if you don't, the tip of a paring knife or swiss army knife will work too.

the battery will go on for about a month if it's fresh. if your pogo+ was sitting around a warehouse or gamestop it may be low. I advise changing the battery right away just in case.

speaking of battery, assuming your pogo+ stays connected for an hour without disconnecting for no reason or the app crashing (AHAHAHA) it will disconnect automatically to save battery, so when using it for long periods of time, check in on your phone every now and again.

disregarding time, the pogo+ is kind of a piece of shit and will often disconnect for no reason, so if you've got your phone in your pocket while walking around school or work and pass what you know is a stop and it doesn't buzz, or you haven't caught anything in a while, check it and make sure it is still connected.

the pogo+ will prioritize catching mon over spinning stops, so if you're driving for example and there's a mon and a stop next to each other, it'll take the mon. if you're low on supplies and need to resupply, switch off "catch pokemon" in the settings.

in your settings, you can have the thing buzz for mon (green for repeats, yellow for an undiscovered species), stops (blue), both, or neither.


this will help you a lot in getting dust, which is our new limiting factor.

enjoy

u/p_rex · 1 pointr/photography

Yeah, comparing the meter against another camera is a good idea. Is it really so expensive to mail it to the States? I've done crazier things. Sent my Pentax from Texas to Tennessee to have it overhauled, although I guess that's not as far.

As an alternate solution, these Wein batteries are specially designed to output the same 1.35V as the original discontinued mercury cells. They're expensive, though: http://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=pd_cp_p_1

u/thomas533 · 1 pointr/preppers

It would be pretty easy to build something similar for a lot cheaper. Pick up a used suitcase at the thrift shop, mount a 50w panel on the outside (much better than the 10W panel in the case you linked to.) Inside the case, mount a charge controller with USB, this 20Ah battery (again, better than the 16Ah in the other one), and this 500W inverter (not sure how big the one in the expensive case it, but 500W should be enough.) So for less than $250 and a little bit of build work, you can have a much more functional system (500% larger solar capacity and 25% more battery capacity).

u/kc2syk · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

What kind of range do you want? 12V battery + adapter + Car FM adapter. Plug in your phone and you can transmit whatever audio you play. Perfectly legal under FCC Part 15 rules.

Edit: fix link

u/ewiggle · 1 pointr/MouseReview

Eveready 1212 (aaa carbon zinc super heavy duty, 4 pack, 9 bucks) are typically 7.4 grams.

The Energizer L92 (aaa lithium battery, 4 pack, 9 bucks) has a typical weight of 7.6g, and here's an 8 pack for 12 bucks. The L91 (aa battery) weighs 14.5 grams.

^(It also keeps going and going and going and ...)

u/joedoesntlikeyou · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I know the consensus is to go with Eneloop batteries but I've been using Energizer rechargeable batteries for over two years and they work great.

u/Sierrasclimber · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Or 1200 watts for $180 or $0.14 per watt. Its slightly larger and you can use cheap chargers on it. Lithium maybe the future but the price point is too high for most unless what you're doing is really minimal.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493771440&sr=8-1&keywords=100+battery+deep

What are you going to run at 120V? That is not minimal. Using an cell phone battery is great for charging cell phones, not much else.

u/stolirocks · 0 pointsr/WindowsMR

These. Work great.

USB Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V/1500mAh Lithium Ion AA Battery with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable 1.5h Quick-Charge Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection Double A Batteries(4 Pack)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uAg4CbZVSYTMM

1.5 hours to charge.

u/notaneggspert · 3 pointsr/flashlight

Olight AAA or a Streamlight 66608 if you need a clip.

The Nitecore Tube is really cool with it's infinite ramping. I loved mine till I lost it camping. But no pocket clip.

Hadn't seen the RovyVon before not sure how much faith I'd have in the little wire clip but otherwise looks like a solid option.

u/ABirdOfParadise · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Here's the one I was typing about.

I mean $17 vs $7 on your link, but you get the batteries, a charger, and they are the best widely available NIMHs out there. Some guys are still using Gen 1 Eneloops at near full capacity.

There was also a Duraloop sale post a few days ago, but probably wasn't a usb charger.

u/dugs36 · 2 pointsr/UKFrugal

Eneloop Pros are the best according to www.which.co.uk

Panasonic Eneloop Pro AA 2500mAh Eneloop NiMH Ready to Use Rechargeable Battery BK 3HCDE/4BE (4 Eneloop Pro Batteries) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JWC40JY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pwNxCb2B5KW3Z

u/MirolynMonbro · 1 pointr/flashlight

Awesome. Thank you.

Streamlight 66608 250 Lumen Microstream USB Rechargeable Flashlight with 5" USB Cord Clamshell Packaging, Coyote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_bNl1DbXJZJT4B

u/K1RKX · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

Yes. u/funbob suggested the 20Ah version for only ~$5 more, but it has screw type terminals. The TS-180S draws 1.6A on standby, and ~20A on transmit. I would recommend at least three in parallel, which is 60Ah. It would take much longer to charge, but as a backup battery, that should be fine, because a 12v charger/maintainer allows you to leave it plugged in indefinitely, and it will always be charged and ready to use.

u/Icouldbeanyone · 2 pointsr/wiiu

Had to replace the wife's battery in her fit meter so I ordered these from Amazon, super cheap and they've been trucking on. Our Walmart down the street didn't have any.

u/D3A7HCH1LD · 1 pointr/xboxone

Thanks BuBubbi, shipping costs on top of cost would end up being more. Just had a look on the UK amazon site, do you think these would be alright https://www.amazon.co.uk/Panasonic-Eneloop-Rechargeable-4BE-Batteries-Black/dp/B00JWC40JY

u/venni27 · 1 pointr/MouseReview

The lightest one with the best battery life would be a A675 Hearing Aid button cell. Such a Buttoncell with 660mAh should last 110 hours on paper and a otherwise stock G305 weighs about 70g with this mod.

Soldering would be required though since you would have to replace the AA Batteryholder.

EDIT: No, using other batteries does not affect the performance of the G305 and it does not harm it. I'd recommend going for a Lithium AAA battery since it's the lightest AAA afaik.

u/tk42111 · 1 pointr/Winnipeg

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Everyday-Alkaline-Batteries-8-Pack/dp/B00LH3DTYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467239757&sr=8-1&keywords=aaaa+battery

couple bucks to ship - or find a friend with prime - and you'll have a lifetime supply for less than the price of 2 at the source :)

u/TheDukeofSideburn · 2 pointsr/UKKnivesandEDC

I just got a streamlight micro-stream. At 250 lumens it’s not super powerful, but it’s usb rechargeable or takes a triple A battery so power isn’t an issue. About as thick as a sharpie marker and maybe has as long, love it so far. I know it comes in a burnt bronzey color

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_2/131-7718342-7786746?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07DLZXZV1&pd_rd_r=50bc7d98-d190-4025-95a8-7b605e00cf47&pd_rd_w=f3ehg&pd_rd_wg=837j7&pf_rd_p=6e6afc8a-fbbd-4649-97cf-4e08f5113612&pf_rd_r=DPR4JMM1VDGGMT3EWMH3&psc=1&refRID=DPR4JMM1VDGGMT3EWMH3

u/jake1260 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I just have Energizer rechargeables that came with a station for like $12. I have had these for 3-4 years and they still work perfectly and I play a lot.

Edit: This isnt the exact one I have but it is the same thing: https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Recharge-Rechargeable-Batteries-Included/dp/B00339NINQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480788026&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=energizer%2Brechargeable%2BAA%2Bbatteries&th=1

u/ipeerbhai · 1 pointr/robotics

Thanks to all who replied!

So it got me thinking about how to do it.
I was hoping it would be simpler -- "Buy motor, CAD up some connectors, wire it up, write simple code, go". ( Even that is too complicated, IMHO... )

So, what I've decided to do is make a simpler robot that is closer to what I imagine in difficulty, then scale up.


Here's my BOM so far:

u/campbjm06 · 1 pointr/kayakfishing

http://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower%C2%AE-12volt-Battery-Terminals-BLMFM12_5/dp/B0010Z4MDK/

Thats about the smallest I can find. 3.54" (L) x 2.79" (W) x 3.98" (H). If you really wanted to avoid drilling, I dont think it would fit in a normal size water bottle, but some sort of tupperwear with a screw on lid looks like it would fit in the water holding area if you have the talon I am thinking of.

Ive had ACK install a few things on my boats, and they usually only charge me for parts at the north Austin location. I cant imagine it would be much to have them drill the holes to run your cable where you wanted it.

u/TwistedStack · 1 pointr/Philippines

Yes, they're rechargeable. I think I bought four AA batteries and the charger for 1.5k PHP years ago. Looks like it's a set of eight batteries and a charger on Amazon now. http://www.amazon.com/Sanyo-Eneloop-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B003VLAEPQ/

EDIT: This is what I got -> http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MCA4BA-Individual-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSMJU/

You should be able to buy it at camera stores. They're the only places I saw carrying eneloop batteries in Manila.

u/NotZero · 2 pointsr/xbox360

I have the X41s and they are an awesome set. You will hear -everything- very well.

There are a few downsides to this set however:

There is a bit of a 'buzzing' when the headphones are on and when there is no sound. You cannot hear this when there is sound however.

I was getting a bit of 'popping' or 'static' now and then. I replaced the really epically thin optical cable with a cheap one off Amazon and fixed that.

Batteries! I use these.

And sometimes the voice chat is hard to balance where you can hear everyone and so some people don't blow out your eardrums.


u/thebheffect · 1 pointr/xboxone

> whether that is removable or not is less important

This is quite important, as rechargeable batteries have a finite life as well. Imagine your non-replaceable battery pack dying.

Overall, its not a 'big' mistake, because you can go out and buy rechargable batteries anytime you want and use those, regardless if its through the charge and play pack or not.

u/animeguru · 2 pointsr/DealsReddit

A pack of rechargables (Eneloops) and a decent charger (pretty much anything) would be a far better investment.

Charger + 8 AA + 4 AAA - some shopping around would probably land a better deal.

u/JorgTheElder · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

Buy rechargeables that actually put out 1.5v.

These are the ones I use


The only negative is that they stay at 1.5v right up until they turn off, so there is no warning. Does not bother me att all, I just keep a pair charged and ready to go. If if has been a while and I want to make sure I am not interrupted, I just swap in a fresh pair before playing.

Edit... I just noticed that the ones I linked to are no longer available. Sorry. The ones shared by /u/warmwires look good enough that just ordered some for my new Quest.

Edit2... I actually switched to these as they claim 100 more mAh, have a 10% off coupon, and still garner an Amazon's Choice rating. :)

u/fivedu · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

USB Rechargeable Batteries... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These work great for me. Haven't lost connection and they haven't exploded yet so thats a good sign.

u/CiccarelloD · 1 pointr/pokemongodev

How do you define expensive?I purchased this and with really heavy use throughout the year I've only gone through 2 batteries. That's less than $2 for a full years worth of batteries.

They are so cheap that whenever I find a friend who owns a go plus, I just give them 2 batteries. 2 batteries should last a year for 95% of people and cost pennies.

u/alshayed · 6 pointsr/SleepApnea

Personally for local or camping (not air travel) I like the 35-55 AH AGM SLA scooter batteries. (SLA = sealed lead acid aka non-spillable) If you turn of heated hose & humidification (passover humidification is okay) they will last a few nights. See the ResMed battery guide for more detailed run estimates at https://www.resmed.com/us/dam/documents/articles/198103_battery-guide_glo_eng.pdf.

Basic list of parts you need:

u/SolidAxle · 1 pointr/preppers

Buy a couple large deep cycle batteries and a battery tender to keep them charged

For example, this battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ is 100ah at 12v, which is roughly 1200 watt hours. For comparison, A 3.7v 20,000 mah phone power bank is 74 watt hours.

Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Cigarette-Terminal-Accessory-Inflator/dp/B07CQMQL9L/ to allow using your car charger with a standalone battery.

Add a 100w solar kit: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Negative-Controller-Connectors/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ if you expect sunny weather during your power outages

u/drewlb · 4 pointsr/flashlight

This is my go to give out light :
Coast HP1 Focusing 190 Lumen LED Flashlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IEMUOWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JGdOzbK008RFR

I'd get 2 of these and some AA. While 18 65 0 is better by all geek metrics, the only mom metric that matters is easy.

Depending on your mom, and your assessment of if she will actually take the batteries out for storage, you might want to buy the disposable lithium ones. Or if you think she would do it, some enloops or other nimh with a simple charger.
Sanyo Eneloop Ni-MH Charger and 8 Rechargeable AA and 4 Rechargeable AAA Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VLAEPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xMdOzbXRNZV2G

Lastly and needs a lantern of some kind. Something like this would work if you are on a budget. 2 Pack E-TRENDS Portable LED Lantern Tent Light Bulb for Camping Hiking Fishing Emergency Light, Battery Powered Camping Lamp with 6 AAA Batteries, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW22VAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PTdOzbX0MWWT5

u/brenosarkis · 1 pointr/Gameboy

Thanks for the detailed answer.

I can't see the one you recommended on Amazon.ES, I've found either a 1900 mAh or a2500 mAh one

Would you say these batteries would also work with Retroflag GPI case?

u/cruzweb · 1 pointr/analog

You just won't be able to use the light metering. I have the same camera, and this is the battery I use. Works like a charm

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009VQJ7/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

u/WHILE_I_POOP · 1 pointr/pokemongo

Cr 2032

Sony CR2032 Lithium Coin Cell 3V 20 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XBK7PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-YEdzbM4N54Y1


Best bang for your buck.

u/AccountforXiaomi · 1 pointr/unitedkingdom

These are the later version of the ones I have, either these or the normal white eneloops are probably the best ones to go for. Lots of reviews to look at.

u/Greeneee- · 1 pointr/vandwellers

The cheapest and easiest thing would be to buy a 4000 watt generator..

You've made it clear you don't want to run a generator. You'll want at least 120-200 amp hours in batteries. Pulling 30a, on one battery from 100% to 40% will kill that battery real quick. Having two will spread the load and extend the lifetime of the batteries. Wire a 10 amp battery charger that you plug an extension cord into every night.

Have a 4000 watt inverter, pure sine not modified, otherwise you will use 120-150 amps in battery power, just to get 60 amps into the scooters (massive efficiency loss). Have that hooked up to your two deep cycle batteries. Run a power strip and plug in all your scooter chargers. Then when your home plug in the shore power to recharge your batteries.

OR BUY A GENERATOR

u/nolyfe27 · 1 pointr/SolarDIY

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=agm+batteries&qid=1563890358&s=gateway&sr=8-5 Universal UB121000

I really really appreciate how you responded so fast! I just keep getting that feeling that i need to individually charge these. I originally purchased one string of 4 batteries used them for a bit with the solar (this was before being aware of the noises and using default settings) then a few weeks later got the other string of 4. I just went ahead and did all the wiring without first individually checking them.

u/iwishihadaburger · 1 pointr/Seattle

In case you don't get one, pick up some Sanyo Eneloops from Amazon. They're better than the XBOX ones since you can use them for anything else as well.

u/baumat · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Much appreciated! I'm in the US so that doesn't work for me, I've found a 100ah on amazon for the same price though. I think there's a UK alternative too

u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Price History


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u/itsjib · 3 pointsr/mflb

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9F27GV/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these are worth looking at too. I've purchased both these and the ones I originally linked, I honestly can't think of any difference in terms of performance/longevity

u/_saladedepdt_ · 2 pointsr/france

En ce moment tu as des bons prix pour le Nikon sb700 , c'est un très bon flash cobra milieu de gamme, qui sera très bon pour des photos de soirées.

Le sb500, plus récent, a bonne réputation aussi. Mais il est moins puissant, moins complet, et le temps de rafraichissement entre chaque photo est bien plus long (2 piles aa contre 4 je crois).

Pour les autres marques compatibles Nikon je ne sais pas.

Tips : pour du portrait, essaye de faire rebondir le flash sur un mur clair ou le plafond plutôt que de flasher directement dans la tête du modèle. Tu peux ajouter un petit diffuseur avec une carte de visite si le flash n'en a pas d'intégré pour rééclairer le visage et les yeux. Même principe qu'un réflecteur intégré.

Pour les piles je te conseille dans tous les cas les Eneloop Pro noires, elles sont top. Si tu peux avoir un chargeur de pile intelligent qui te permet de recharger lentement tes accus c'est parfait, elles dureront très longtemps.

u/karn_evil · 3 pointsr/flashlight

Yes, it can be removed and used in hand if you want to. I have the flashlight version of that light and It has held up well over the past year.

I don't think I've seen a 12v charger, but there probably is something out there. You could always get the eneloop charger with a usb cable pack and pick up one of those 12v to USB adapters.

u/tebeve · 5 pointsr/flashlight

Shelf life on lithium primaries is about 10 years...

Don't usually recommend their flashlights, but I do like their batteries, and this is a pretty damn good price on these Surefires.

u/vanbacon · 1 pointr/gaming

You can find replacement batteries for cartridge based games on amazon for like $2 This is what your looking for I had to replace a battery for a LOZ A link to the past.

u/Slightlyevolved · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I bought these last year. They seem quite legit, good power output, and still running in the devices I put them in last year.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XBK7PG

u/waboosh · 1 pointr/vandwellers

This is what I use, 100Ah https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZuLHxbJYEQCWX

Get a sealed deep cycle battery. No maintenance and worry free.

I don't power much. Pump for sink, roof fan, lights, and my electronics so 100 was enough for me. I would say 150 should do the trick and might be too much but you'll need to calculate all that to be sure.

u/Jim-Jones · 1 pointr/electricians

It's only 50 watts. Assume 60 watts therefore 5 amps. For 3 hours, you need a 15 amp-hour battery. Double that for safety and buy 30 amp-hours or more.

When you buy it, post pictures of the power adapter and the label on it and I'll tell you more. A 100 watt or greater inverter should be fine, but there are other options.

This http://www.amazon.com/ML35-12-Battery-Replaces-Mighty-product/dp/B00K8E0WAG

might be more than enough. I'd try Walmart for one. Get Deep Cycle.

u/longtrekkerDOTcom · 1 pointr/urbancarliving

Yes! Two of these: Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

If I had enough space I'd get more. When I upgrade to a van I'll probably switch to lithium batteries.

u/fuqsfunny · 1 pointr/Beginning_Photography

You'll need a 1.35v mercury-equivalent replacement battery, and not just something you pick up at Wal-Mart. Weincell makes a good one.

u/Private0Malley · 1 pointr/xbox

Even better, works the same as long as you've got a phone cable:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00339NINQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6gakub0J2GM33

u/OculusGoDude · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

This style of battery should be a good choice. It's 1.5v and has a built in micro USB charging circuit.

u/DrTautology · 1 pointr/flashlight

Thanks man. Always wanted to try a microstream.

Streamlight 66608 250 Lumen Microstream USB Rechargeable Flashlight with 5" USB Cord Clamshell Packaging, Coyote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7NfpDbZ71ETFZ

u/Arctic_Scrap · 4 pointsr/Cartalk

What about something like this?

Any 12 volt battery will work.

u/thm1223 · 1 pointr/buildapc

So one last question - sorry! The refurbished mobo I bought will not come with a CMOS battery. Are these ones from Amazon fine to use with it?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042A9UXC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A19DY5EK03NION&psc=1

u/verteilerr · 1 pointr/photomarket

It does! But you're gonna need these mercury voltage equivalent replacement batteries to get the right voltage and reading. Alkaline batteries are 1.5V if I'm not mistaken which will throw off the reading. Everything will work fine otherwise!

u/kylenabox · 1 pointr/SolarDIY

Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EN.MDbTQK4FCC

KRIËGER 1100 Watt 12V Power Inverter Dual 110V AC Outlets, Installation Kit Included, Automotive Back Up Power Supply For Blenders, Vacuums, Power Tools MET Approved According to UL and CSA. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T564EIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8O.MDbT2DB8FY

u/Wyzrddd · 1 pointr/flashlight

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cg9RDbV9PFN3T

The added recharchability would be a nice feature to have so I dont gotta replace batteries.

u/OutForKarma · 1 pointr/flashlight

Amazon - Streamlight USB in Tan

Thank you for doing this giveaway again!

u/StoneAthleticClub · 1 pointr/flashlight
u/electro169 · 1 pointr/flashlight

Streamlight Microsstream

Thank you for doing this!

u/not28 · 1 pointr/analog

Any suggestions for replacing an old mercury px625 battery for a Canonet QL17? So far the best I can find is a Weincell but they're expensive and I hear don't last very long.

u/486_8088 · 1 pointr/diySolar

The color temp will be important in your application, check out these bulbs, they have the right color and are very forgiving of low voltage and reverse polarity and are sealed against moisture.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UAALVM6


These are 3w each and put the same light as a 60w light bulb, for 5 hours of run time you'll need 1.25 amp hours of battery per light bulb, you'll also need a low voltage shut off to protect the batteries.

Here's a battery that could run 4 LED's for 5 hours, https://www.amazon.com/EXP1250-Terminals-Chamberlain-LiftMaster-Replacement/dp/B0010Z4MDK

but I'd put in a 10ah battery for redundancy.


Lastly you'll need a solar panel and charge controller,
https://harborfreight.com/home-outdoor/home/solar/100-watt-solar-panel-kit-63585.html

Unfortunately it's not going to fit down the stack, you can lay them leghtwise along the top of the boiler.

I like trains

u/edrock200 · 7 pointsr/Vive

Very nice! If you want to make them truly portable add a shelf and grab two of these: EXP1250 12V 5Ah Home Alarm Battery with F1 Terminals // Chamberlain / LiftMaster / Craftsman 4228 Replacement Battery for Battery Backup Equipped Garage Door Openers https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WcyACbMX4FW7Y

You'll need a charger too for the batteries but should run them for hours.

u/MjoLniRXx · 1 pointr/analog

Right off the bat it sounds like your meter may be broken. However, there are a few things to check first before declaring that.

  1. Make sure you use the correct battery. As /u/iamthejeff_ pointed out, the OM-1 natively takes a battery that is no longer available. A weincell or a hearing aid battery will give you the proper voltage. You don't 100% need an o-ring to center the hearing aid battery. The cap should do a good job keeping it on the contact tab.

    Once you've gotten a battery of the correct voltage you can test the meter again. One thing of note is that the meter movement itself is mechanical. It will respond to the aperture ring and shutter speed movement even if the meter itself is dead. The meter only reads from around 2EV to 17EV so make sure you test this in sunlight to see if the meter is actually functional. If you're in a lit room it's possible that the meter simply isn't sensitive enough for the light in the room.

  2. If you have a regular OM-1 not the n or MD variant (though I think this MAY apply to some MD variants, I can't recall) then you can also take off the bottom plate by removing the 4 bottom screws and check the battery contact screw. On early models this was made of nylon and is easily broken. This can cause improper electrical contact and make the meter appear inoperable. If you have an n model they all used metal screws so this wouldn't be the case.

    If all of this checks out and the meter is inoperable then I'd say it's pretty safe to call your meter dead. If you have an interest in reviving the meter you can send it to John Hermanson to do a CLA on the camera. I'm pretty sure he can replace the meter cells.

    His website is here.

    However, given your circumstances that's probably too slow and too expensive.


    You can also simply use the camera without a meter. It's a mechanical camera and doesn't need the meter to take photos. You will simply need to employ an external light meter or use Sunny16 or similar exposure rules.

    If a light meter in-camera is a must then buying another OM-1 is quite cheap on eBay.
u/meemo4556 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Depends on whether or not you want continued warranty and your level of technical expertise, heres an example of a newer cpu battery and here's an example of an older one.

You should contact your motherboard's support before trying any of this, they might just send you a battery for free/cheap.


u/mupersan · 6 pointsr/vandwellers

Lets do a quick run through so you can compare:

The Yeti 1250 is 12v 100ah and 1200 watts for $1250. It has 3 USB and 3 standard plugs + other ins and outs in addition to a solar charger.

A 12v 100ah deep cycle battery off amazon is $159. You would need a charger unit ($50 on amazon) in addition to some basic electrical wiring ($20-50). Then you would need an inverter (this one is $65 w/ three plug ins and two usb inputs) for 1000 watts. Last you would need to invest in a solar charger unit (often comes with solar panel kits and those can run around $30. So probably close to $350-400

So then however you want to store these (plywood box construction and a little DIY elbow grease) you can build essentially the same unit for about 1/4 the cost.

https://www.amazon.com/ERAYAK-Inverter-Alligator-Refrigerator-Cooler-8099U/dp/B019PXILXA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1482364654&sr=8-17&keywords=12v+inverter

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482364350&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+100+ah+deep+cycle+battery

https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Regulator-Intelligent-Display-12V-24V/dp/B018ICLC3K/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1482364823&sr=1-4&keywords=solar+charge+controller