Reddit mentions: The best household battery chargers

I don't know if I would trust any headlamp with a USB-C port on it into a cave... it seems like asking for trouble with it getting filled with mud and other nasty stuff. A similar light is the Nitecore HC50, which is $15 cheaper and has red lights. I have this light and have taken it in many muddy, wet caves and have banged it up something good and it is still rocking strong. The beam is awesome, and while it's only 565 lm this is honestly still brighter than useful pretty much always. I typically run it at the second or third brightness setting anyways. My only complaint with this light is that it is a bit heavy, which isn't really a problem when strapped to an ecrin roc, but can be annoying when not using it with a helmet around the camp.

My favorite light is my Zebralight, the hype for this thing is well deserved. While it doesn't have a red light, the form factor is awesome. It is super light on the head without the hassle of a battery in the back. I think many people will agree that the Zebralight H600 series is one of the best caving lights you can get. (note there four versions of the H600, two LED colors cool and neutral, and two beam spreads, flood and spot)

Nitecore makes a blatant ripoff of the Zebralight that is $30 cheaper. While I don't have one of these, I did have a chance to play with one after a buddy of mine got one and it seems to be pretty neat. Considering how much I like my Nitecore HC50 I'm willing to bet this would be a solid light to get as well. One thing I like about the Zebralight over the Nitecore is that it works with flat-top 18650 batteries so you can bust open old laptop batteries and use the cells to power the light, whereas the Nitecore requires a button top 18650. Not a huge issue but something to consider.


Edit (some more thoughts):

It sounds like you are new to caving, welcome! I would recommend that you attend a local grotto meeting, which I believe for you would be the Southern California Grotto. You may meet some awesome people and it's a good way to get involved in the sport.

Also, with your flashlight purchase don't forget to get an 18650 battery and a charger for it. You may already have these since you have the Nitecore MH25 but I figured I'd mention it just in case. Be careful with the batteries to get a reputable brand because there are a lot of fakes out there. Panasonic makes good batteries, but unfortunately there are a lot of ones that say Panasonic that are made somewhere else and a lot of ones that say other things that are made by Panasonic. Confusing! I got this one and it works great. You can take a risk with cheaper ones, just know they might not last so long. This charger works good for me. I've had both of my lights last for a 14 hour cave trip so the battery life is pretty good.

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

Are you a flashlight geek? Are you cheap, want to test the waters, and just happen to have some 18650 batteries around? Are you a tinker-er or would you just like your first set-up to have replaceable batteries so you only have to buy one device?

The cheapest way to get into this is with the $20 (often on sale for $12) [Plastic Bolt]
(http://www.madvapes.com/plastic-bolt-black.html). Be warned, it IS cheap. Expect it to last about a month before the hot melt "potting" breaks loose from the 510 connector and gets wobbly. It will still function. Mine lasted about 3 months before I turned it into a passthrough (uses a PC Power Supply instead of a battery. If you know a bit about electrons, once you pop open the case of this device it should be immediately obvious how you need to wire it to the 5V rail). If you want something more permanent look at this guy $43 or this guy ($38). They're not that much more expensive and are good solid performers. I don't care anything about the safety fuse, but hey, it comes with it, so you might as well.

Now You'll need some batteries and a charger. I highly recommend getting IMR chemistry batteries. ICR chemistry batteries tend to fail spectacularly, while an IMR just vents. These failures are rare, but can be caused by drawing too much amperage off the battery, either intentionally (you made a coil with too little resistance for your battery) or unintentionally (coil shorted, device shorted, etc.) and sustaining that load (leaving the button pushed in your backpack, hard short in the device that you left on the other side of the room). Again, these failures are RARE, and often caused by negligence. But you're a geeky type, so you know better. If all your batteries are ICRs or you don't have any, the best price per performance is this guy ($8) or this guy ($11) These are great batteries and, should you decide you really like this stuff and want to blow fat clouds, they will carry you into sub-ohm rebuildables. Check your battery voltage often (you do have a multimeter, right?). I recharge at around 3.7V, but you can take it down to 3.3 safely, below that voltage drops fast and you'll (permanently) kill the battery below 2.5V or so. Once you get used to it, you'll feel the vapor output and throat hit drop off and know it's time to recharge.

If you don't have a charger already, I have the $30 EFEST LUC (no serious complaints) but this $18 Nitecore i2 comes highly recommended by many users.

Now, we are trying to keep with the cheap thing, and there is no better way to get good flavor, throat hit, and vapor on the cheap than a dripping atomizer. Being able to change flavors rapidly is just a nice bonus (you're new, you'll probably want to try all the things). You want low resistance (1.4-2.0) ohms since you're running off battery voltage. P=V^2 /R power is directly related to vapor/flavor output. A good starting point is 8-10W, so about 1.8ohms or 1.5ohms (respectively). This guy ($6) and this guy($6) are often praised as a being high quality, but still cheap. or you can jump straight into rebuildable drippers like this little guy ($8). It comes prewicked and should last as long as the disposables listed above, but once it dies, you just recoil and rewick instead of throwing it away (I'll leave this as an exercise for the user, but let me just say that you can buy a couple lifetimes worth of resistance wire for $10 and a couple lifetimes worth of cotton wick for $5) Remember when i said those batteries will take you all the way up into sub-ohm rebuildables? So will this atomizer. When you're ready just recoil to a lower resistance. Aint that handy?

If dripping sounds like too much of a hassle then the $10 Iclear 30 sounds right for you. I haven't used it, personally, but people will not shut up about how much they love this thing.

Now the juice is a whole 'nother world and it's really hard to make recomendations. If you can I HIGHLY reccomend going in to a brick and mortar E-Cig store and sampling flavors. Buy from them. Yes it's more expensive, but you probably spent an hour trying stuff out and it'd be pretty shitty to walk out and buy it from the internet. If you don't have a brick and mortar then go to these places and order what sounds tasty in the smallest bottles they have. You'll find that what you think you'd like doesn't always correlate to what you actually like. here's a few that I like:

http://thevaporchef.com/collections/frontpage/products/slartibartfast

http://thevaporchef.com/products/honey-pearry

http://www.mtbakervapor.com/nicotine-juice/thug-juice-e-juice-baker-vapor/

http://www.mountainoakvapors.com/product-p/mo-dt-1019.htm

These set ups should have you outperforming the typical ego and cigalike set ups for not much more money and leave you a lot of head room for future growth. They're also cheap enough that if you decide you hate vaping (inconceivable!) that you're not out much and can probably sell it to someone looking to upgrade. Good luck and happy tinkering.

So, people are always talking about finding something to quit smoking, but you are on 0 nic now, and you still want to vape for fun. What do you want then?

The mod: Smoktech Magneto. This is a solid mod with a good price tag. this will net you the opportunity to try out some "sub-ohm rebuildables" and high wattage vaping.

Batteries: Samsung INR18650's. Some good batteries here, not the highest of the high end as far as batteries go, but extremely powerful, decent capacity, and for the newbie, great safety.

To charge your batteries: Nitecore i4. Super safe, solid charger. not much to say here.

For the clouds: Smoktech RSST. A lot of people really don't like dealing with stainless steel mesh, but inside of this tank, I get some of the best flavor I've ever had, better than the glorious cotton microcoils.

As far as juice goes, just buy what you already like in max VG to start. It's really the best vape experience out there. There's no loss in flavor at all, and with rebuildables, it's a match made in heaven.

Higher-End Beginner/Intermediate Setup with Clearomizer or Carto Tank Option


This is a bit of a different recommendation. I've seen some requests lately where someone says, "money is no object." This is for the person with some cash in hand who wants something that's going to last and perform reliably well. I've included recommendations for both a clearomizer and carto tank.

___

ProVari V2.5

18650 AW Batteries for ProVari (get two)

ProVari Extended End Cap to accept 18650 batteries

Provari Wrap (Not necessary, but good to have some protection.)

ProVari Beauty Ring (Not necessary for the recommended tanks, but a nice accessory.)

Kanger Aerotank and
replacement coil heads

AGR Locking Carto Tank

Cartos for AGR (Don't bother with unpunched cartos. Pre-punched are great.)

Luer Lock Syringe for filling AGR Carto Tank

Nitecore i2 Intellicharger

Seduce Juice Sample Pack

The Vapor Chef Butter Beer and Honey Pearry

Drip Tip for cartos

____

Other Great Juice Vendors

Adirondack Vapor - excellent high-grade juice. Placid is a must-try.

DBLiquids - great, affordable juice from a good guy

The Plume Room - excellent flavors that work particularly well in a clearomizer

Alice in Vapeland - subtle, often delicate flavors

Grizzly Vapes - affordable premium juice. Nanner Bear is excellent.

Captivape - solid mid-grade juice from a great vendor

Velvet Cloud Vapor - natural, organic flavorings, 100% VG

The mods with the bottoms that push up are referred to as tube mods. Those mods are mechanical mods, which are extremely dangerous for beginners. At the very least, if you don't know what you are doing then you can ruin the mod. If you're really unlucky, a mech mod could literally blow up in your face. When you move up to a mech mod, you really need to know what you are doing. I know that's not the answer that you want, but if you're interested in learning more about starting out with mech mods I would visit /r/electronic_cigarette.

If you have vaped before, and seemingly on something with some power, then I would recommend a regulated box mod with decent power. The sigelei 150w and 150w TC boxes are very nice, and the latter will allow for some play later on with the temp control option.

Some tanks that are really nice at the moment are the Sense Herakles, SMOK TFv4, and the Uwell Crown. I also enjoy the Kanger Subtanks.

You would also need batteries. If you go with an 18650 box, I would suggest the green Samsung 25r's. They are available on amazon. At the moment they are the best around to my knowledge.

A charger to charge those batteries. Nitecore D2 or Nitecore D4 would be your best bets. If you plan to really start vaping, I would go with the D4 so that you can charge up to 4 batteries at once.

Then you would need juice. If you have tasted one that you really liked with a friend, then I would ask that friend what flavor they are vaping. For a really great online option (I swear to god all of his flavors are amazing), Giant Vapor can't be beat. There is also B-X Vapor, VapeWild, and MechSauce. Be aware that whatever juice you might get (unless it says otherwise or was purchased from a local shop) will probably need to steep for 1-2 weeks.

Most important things would probably be

1.) Hold it upside down when you clean the main chamber by swabbing with a q-tip dipped in ISO.

2.) Use a high % ISO. 91% or higher is best. 71% isn't terrible, but avoid anything lower. (I saw at Walmart they had 50%, like what the actual fuck, who wants to pay for 50% water?)

3.) Let the thing COMPLETELY DRY after cleaning. Take it apart and let it air dry for like at least 30 minutes.

4.) I highly recommend getting an external Nitecore charger and some extra batteries, but if you do use the cable I wouldn't recommend leaving it unattended. It even says in the manual to not let it charge unattended and plug it into a surge protector. You want to be there to unplug it in case something fucks up.

With the external chargers you won't have to worry about that. Leaving batteries unattended on a Nitecore charger is safe because they are loaded with safety features and come from a very reputable company. Also, you can charge up to 4 batteries at a time and still use a different battery in your Hopper.

2 battery slots; 3 LED lights display: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ

4 battery slots; 3 LED lights display: http://www.amazon.com/NITECORE-Intellicharge-universal-battery-Charger/dp/B00KBFZDI8

2 battery slots; digital display: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO

4 battery slots; digital display: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Integrated-Displays-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00L1XYX4Y


5.) Don't soak the Silicone condom in ISO unless you are OK with it turning a yellow/brown color. Just swab it with a Q-tip dipped in ISO.

6.) If something isn't working right like the straight to blue issue or it isn't heating up quite as much as it used too, then look at the battery contact on your back-end. If there is black gunk on the contact, carefully swab it with a Q-tip dipped in 91% ISO. Also, make sure the threads on the back are clean. Let it dry completely before using.

7.) Never ever ever ever let air be pushed into it. Like don't blow into it.



Also, Idk if you have heard of delta3dstudios and their awesome attachments yet, but their funnel that is designed for the Grasshopper is simply amazing. Makes loading a cinch and fits the GH perfectly and it is only $7(it was $8 when I got it). They also make other accessories for the GH as well as for other vapes.

For vendors, I'd recommend VapeWild. Been using them for over a year now and have nothing but awesome things to say about them: https://www.vapewild.com (they'll also send you a free sample pack of their juices if you use WELCOME10 on your first purchase)

Small and packs a punch, eh? I can't really recommend from experience (I have an ijoy Captain - while it's an awesome mod, it's pretty big), but the Aspire Speeder and Geekvape Aegis are very good

Speeder: www.vapewild.com/aspire-speeder-200w-mod/

Aegis: www.vapewild.com/geekvape-aegis-mod/

There's also the Voopoo Drag, which is a damn awesome mod, but the company is under fire for some shady business practices (nothing to do with the mod, just some folks have been protesting the company): www.vapewild.com/voopoo-drag-157w-tc-box-mod/

Now tanks, I can recommend. With it being your first setup, I'd tell you to get a Crown III by Uwell. I've had one, my friends have had one, pretty much everyone I know has had a Uwell in their lineup at some point. I don't use it anymore after switching to RDAs, but for a first tank it's damn near perfect (get some extra. 25ohm coils if you do pick it up)

www.vapewild.com/uwell-crown-3-tank/

www.vapewild.com/crown-3-coils-by-uwell/

Another tank I'd recommend is the Fireluke by Freemax. The tank is huge and the first coil I had in it lasted me a month while chain vaping ~70W.

https://www.vapewild.com/fireluke-tank-by-freemax-vape/

Also, don't forget batteries and chargers! You can find them here on the site: https://www.vapewild.com/batteries-chargers/

However, I'd personally recommend the Nitecore charger, which you can find on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBFZDI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tQl1AbPRQHPSC

Well, I hope I covered everything - cheers!

Unfortunately there is no singular "best device", there are many different devices out there to choose from depending on what you're looking for... And what you're looking for may very well change with time as well.

Most of the higher end mods (the battery part of the kit) use 18650 rechargeable batteries, which does add a bit to your startup costs for charger, batteries, and generally a more expensive mod.

Personally I prefer smaller single-battery mods like the Sigelei Spark, and for the price it's a pretty sweet deal. Some people prefer larger devices that use two batteries together for higher performance, but that just isn't me.

The tank could also be a tough choice. I've been using a Kanger Subtank Mini for the past year or so, and it does great for me. It comes with a rnebuildable atomizer (RBA) so I can make my own coils, but you can also buy replaceable coils if you prefer. There are more tasks out there than you can shake a stick at, and one person's love will be another's hate... But I think the subtank isn't a bad place to start, they're reliable, adjustable, easy to maintain, and easy to find.

Of course there are decent kits that include a tank and rechargeable unit without a replaceable battery if you're not looking to get that fancy. Something like the Kanger Subvod Mega or Joyetech eGo One might fit the bill.

I linked several different shops on purpose, I've had good experiences with all of them, but of course there are many more out there too. If you have a good brick and mortar vape shop in your area it's worth a visit to see what they have and might recommend.

A legitimate 3500+mAh battery will probably not be worth the extra price unless you absolutely need longer runtimes on a single cell. In most cases, the listed capacity is a total fabrication, luckily some nice folks do various tests to see the actual capacities of various cells. Here is one from 2012 and one done in 2011 is here.

I'm not familiar with the prices of all of those cells, there are a lot to choose from but I do know that the tenergy cells have decent capacity and are a pretty good value, here on amazon.

A charger that is a great value is the Nitecore i4, found for a very good price on amazon. It can only charge with a maximum of 750mA charge current which is a little lower than what is best, but it will do just fine. For maximum speed charging of 2 cells be sure to use different channels, #1 and #3 are paired as well as #2 and #4. So use combinations like #1 and #4, #1 and #2, #2 and #4, etc.

Yes, there are lots of vendors who provide 0 nic juice. But your hookah has nicotine, so you might enjoy something like superlow 0.1% or 1mg/ml.

Anyway, to get hookah experience you'll need max VG juice, it can be drawn straight to lungs, and some powerfull hardware to get heating going. Without paying a lot the only easy road is mechanical mods (meaning without electronic boards in them) and dripping atomizer. You'll need to research Ohm's law and battery safety. That's like most important things, so you don't blow your face off. Here is the list of what you'll need.

• Any 18650 compatible (almost all are) mechanical mod clone (meaning china cloned one of popular models). I'll recommend Stingray X by Infinite. But it's quite expensive. And really you can buy any other mech, just check how good that particular clone is, because there are different china clone makers, some models are better than others.
  
• RDA (Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer). I'll recomend Veritas clone. Known to produce a lot of flavor. Here is the video explaining the concept.
  
• Wire. You'll need different kind of kanthal by temco, from 26 gauge to 32. Just look it up on amazon.
  
• Organic cotton. Organic means that it wasn't bleached. You can buy just organic cotton balls or you can buy quite expensive japanese cotton.
  
• Battery. IMR battery, not ICR. If you research battery safety, you'll get the idea why. The current recommended options are Sony VTC5 and Sony VTC4. But they are really hard to find. Other good options are Samsung 25R and LG HE2.
  
• Good battery charger, like this.
  
• Ohm-meter. You absolutely need that thing.
  
• Expensive juice from good vendors like The Vapor Chef, Five Pawns, Bombies.
  
  That will outmatch hookah by a wide margin.
  

Charger:

• Xtar PB2: 2x18650 power bank and charger, unprotected high drain cells only. Review
  
• ThruNite C2: 1x18650 power bank and charger. 2A output. Earlier versions of the charger had a fairly high minimum output current, but I believe this has been fixed.
  
• Nitecore F1: One of the cheapest charger/power banks. 1A output (and it struggles with that). Review.
  
  

  Keychain:
  

  
  

• Olight I1R: Sure, it doesn't have any LVP, and the battery is sealed, but other than that this this thing is great. It's small, bright, and well built.
  
• The Nitecore T series: The Tube, Tip, Thumb, and Tini are all worth considering.
  
  

  EDC Pocket:
  

  
  >( I am a bit confused as to why this has the HI on the product listing but all the features are the same as the SC64w but it loses 100 lumens? Should I just get the Sc64w?)
  
  The emitter it uses is a XHP35 HI, rather than an XHP35. The lack of a dome must affect lumen output somehow. It'll throw further though, and the beam should be better than the domed version.
  
  Zebralight is pretty hard to beat for EDC if you like that style of light.
  
  

  EDC Bag
  

  
  

  Headlamp
  

  
  Looks like you like what you have right now. I have no pocket clip suggestions.
  
  

  Thrower
  

  
  I'd suggest the SC600w mkIII HI or mkIV HI over the mkIV Plus. The HI emitters will mean more throw. Also, the mkIII HI had the second best tint of any Zebralight I'd ever owned.
  
  None of the lights you're mentioning are especially throwy. When I think of a thrower, I think of >300m. Try an Emisar D1. You can use it with high drain unprotected flat tops like Sony VTC6s or Samsung 30Qs, and then use those same cells in your Zebralights.\
  
  

  Car
  

  
  >Noctigon Meteor m43 - Big throw, great amount of lumens + a slew of amazing features.
  
  Again, the Meteor isn't a thrower. It's a very floody light. The only reason it throws 400m is because of the sheer amount of light it puts out. You can get more throw with a $25 1x18650 Convoy C8.
  
  When I think of a car light, I think of a light powered by 2 CR123As, placed in the car and left there until an emergency situation necessitates that you use it.

Congrats on the vape!

u/Candyvanmanstan was correct about the batteries. LG HG2 or samsung 30q are considered the best batteries - I reccomend buying four along with an external charger such as this one.

Firmware is easy, just follow the instructions and use the cable provided.

You can use the whip with any glass mouthpiece, but not the water adaptor as far as I know, a little water helps to lubricate it.

Heres some tips for usage:

• Cleaning
  
  
• Making sure the stem doesn't fall out
  
  
• The battery life is kinda dependent on ambient temperature. If you're outside in winter, the heater has to work a lot harder to heat up the air to vaporization temps, leading to about 1 bowl per battery. Here's a tip u/choooochoooo gave me: put the air intake hole (at the bottom of the vape) inside your sleeve or jacket. Your body temperature will pre-heat the air, helping your battery life.
  
  
• Cruise control is more battery effecient
  
  
• Grind your herb coarse - the vape is full convection and needs airflow
  
  
• Warm up helps performance by heat-soaking all of the glass: good idea if you're in a cold environment, but I rarely use it tbh.
  
  
• Explore the menu, there is so much great stuff in there: Eco modes to save battery, flappy bird, screensavers, brightness, just don't fuck with your coil resistance values unless you know what you're doing.
  
  Sorry if that's all too much, feel free to ask if you have any questions about the vape.

If you like the Ego-Twist, then you're in for a treat. An Ego-Twist is pretty much near the bottom of the barrel when it comes to a satisfying experience.

Here I'm going to save you some time. This is what I would recommend as an upgrade. If you have money to spend, go straight for the Provari. It will soon become the go-to tool in your arsenal. Otherwise get yourself a good DNA-30 based box mod like a Hana Modz Clone or a Cloupor. Then get yourself a good rebuildable atomizer like the Kayfun or Taifun. The flavor and vapor production their style of atomizer produces is highly satisfying. They work via negative pressure so once you fill it you can pretty much forget it in your pocket and rest assured that its wont leak on you. Also I would recommend you get yourself a Genesis style Atomizer like the Kraken for while you're in the house, has a tank you can fill plus it has an exposed side on top where you can drip flavors on in case you want a taste of something new without cleaning out the tank. The pull on those is very loose and airy, so you can fill your lungs in as fast as you want, the faster the pull the colder the air. Different than the Kayfuns/Taifuns of the world which have a limit to how fast you can pull. Genesis style atomizers tend to be leaky so I wouldn't recommend it as "take to work" type atomizer.

You will also need some batteries, get yourself a pair of Sony VTC5 or Samsung 25R and a good charger. These allow for high discharge rates. Here is some info on that.

You will also need some Kanthal wire, 26 guage is good. And some cotton as you will need this to build the coils on the rebuildable atomizer. Youtube is your friend when it comes to how to build the coils.

>So far i am very dissatisfied with the iclear 30 tanks that come with it, they leak, gurgle, don't produce very much vapor, and also have an insanely tight draw. Compared to my previous $20 dollar vape pen, this is absolute hell. Could someone recommend me a good tank that supports replaceable atomizers?

yeah the iclear 30 isn't great. look in to: aspire nautilus, kanger protank 2 or 3/mini protank 2 or 3, kanger aero tank, etc

>Also i was wondering how to take good care of the battery, i hear a lot about them exploding, don't want any of that to happen. I got myself an ultrafire charger so that i don't overcharge the battery. What else should i do to keep it safe? besides switching to a better one as my current one is a cheap $7 one.

not a ton to worry about here since you're using a regulated device. your svd will not fire any shorted coils. it will not fire coils that are below or above the regulated limit, and it will not discharge your battery below like 3.2 volts. all of that means you could use inexpensive, low drain batteries to maximize your battery life. personally, when the svd and its ilk were my daily drivers i used the samsung 26f ICR cells. they're 2600 mah and like $4 a piece. super cheap, long life.

also, that trustfire charger is garbage. upgrade to something better soon. personally, i use the nitecore intellicharger, but there are a lot of decent and relatively inexpensive chargers out there. the intellicharger i2 is ~$12 on amazon or ~$13 at illumination supply (great source for batteries too, use coupon code ISPOWER for, iirc, 10% off).

>And for the last question, what is the resistance of an atomizer, and what does it mean? is higher or lower better? all that kinda stuff please.

basically lower resistance means coils get hotter faster. this is fine if you have adequate airflow and good wicking. but can be a problem if those things are lacking. personally, i liked 1.8-2.2 ohms when i ran the SVD. but that's personal preference. you should play around with different resistances and settings on your SVD to see what you like. i suggest starting at like 5w and then slowly going up until you find your sweet spot of flavor/vapor.

here's a reddit thread that might help you.

hope this helps.

The "My First RDA" Mechanical Mod Kit

Nemesis Clone Mechanical Mod - Great price, great features, an awesome place to start without breaking the bank.

Green Sony VTC4's - I would suggest at least 2, I prefer 4.


Nitecore Intellicharger i4 (Or the i2 if you only have 2 batteries) - Great premium safe charger. What's worth more? The few bucks you save on a cheapo charger, or your house which you burned down by overcharging your batteries on a cheapo charger.

IGO-W2 or IGO-W - The IGO-W is a go-to for many, however it will likely require drilling the air holes out. The W2 costs a few more bucks, and has a different pin configuration internally, but has adjustable airflow. If you go with the IGO-W, you will also need some kind of mini screwdriver. Here's a super cheap kit

A Drip Tip - You'll need one to go with your IGO, style is up to you. You can get them pretty much anywhere, I just linked to this store because if you are putting in an order there anyway, you may as well save on shipping.

That will get you setup with your mod/RDA. Now you are going to need your building materials. Here's what I suggest.

Rebuilding Materials

An Ohm Reader - Do not skip out on this. Knowing the resistance of your coils keeps you out of harms way.

28ga Kanthal - This seems to be the preferred gauge for RDA's.

Chefs torch - This isn't necessary, but is hugely helpful for making microcoils

This cheap grooming kit - What you need from this are the nail clippers, tweezers, and scissors (also the pouch it comes with is handy for keeping your rebuilding tools in)

Cotton Balls - You can get sterilized cotton from most pharmacies. I use plain old 100% cotton balls. Just make sure to read the package and check of additives. You don't want any makeup-remover or anything like that. Just pure cotton.

Drill Bit Kit - For wrapping your coils. 1/16th seems to be everybody's favorite standard, so if you're prone to losing small things this might be a better kit for you.

DaVinci IQ - $275

Pro:

• Very discreet (1.65" W x 3.54" H x 0.94" D)
  
• Great conduction vapor output with excellent flavor from ceramic zirconia oven
  
• Smart paths are a great and easy to use feature
  
• Precision temp setting option
  
• Good battery life and swappable 18650 batteries
  
• 45 second heat up time (to 370F)
  
• Haptic feedback
  
• Smartphone app available for customization of smart paths, but not required to utilize any other features.
  
• Very even heating without stirring (includes on-board stir stick)
  
• Includes 10mm mouthpiece for direct connection to water pipe
  
• Excellent build quality
  
• Can be used while charging
  
  
  Con:
  
• Requires the occasional good, thorough cleaning
  
• Not particularly efficient for smaller loads without [spacers] (https://www.davincivaporizer.com/iq-glass-spacers/) (though I have no personal experience with them)
  
• Can charge with USB but recommend external battery charger (such as Nitecore i2).
  
• 45 second heat up time
  
• Not suited to concentrates
  
• Unit can get very hot during extended/repeated sessions.
  
  =======
  =======
  
  Firefly 2 - $329
  
  Pro:
  
• Easily pocketable and still discreet but is a bit larger than the IQ (1.4” W x 5.1” H x 0.95” D)
  
• Flavorful convection vapor from long borosilicate glass path which provides cooler vapor
  
• Fast charging and swappable batteries
  
• On-demand vapor
  
• 5 second heat up time (to 400F)
  
• Smartphone app for customization and info, not required for normal usage
  
• Efficient for very small loads
  
• Very easy maintenance
  
• Very good build quality
  
• Compatible with concentrates
  
  Con:
  
• Spare batteries are proprietary and require proprietary charger
  
• Connection to water pipe requires after-market mods
  
• Cannot be used while charging
  
  DISCLAIMER: I own an IQ, but not a FF2. My description of the IQ is based on personal experience over the past six months or so, but FF2 is based on my reading about it as I've researched purchasing an on-demand convection vape. About ready to pull the trigger on FF2, but still considering Firewood 4; capsules are putting me off a bit on it.
  

It really depends on how long your trip is, and how much light you'll be using over the course of it. Getting a battery charger is a good idea. Since you're trekking and weight counts, I'll recommend a Nitecore F2 so you can bring it along. It can be a charger (from USB) or a power bank, using the same 18650 cells as your Wizard. You'll be more energy efficient by just carrying a couple of extra 18650 cells and swapping them into your light as needed, instead of trying to charge it off of a power bank. (you lose about 20% of the energy by charging one cell off of another). As far as battery safety, when the cell is in the light it is in the safest possible condition. If you bring extra cells, you should store them in a waterproof container designed for the purpose. Modern lithium cells have pretty good cold resistance, but if you are going to be using them in a particularly cold environment, there was a new cell recently released that is good to -40 (C or F, it happens to be the same.) However, you can buy almost 6 normal cells for what it costs, and most of them should work to temperatures well below freezing. These in the last link are one of the best deals on the market for capacity and discharge capability, and would be good for power bank use in an F2 or backup cells for your Wizard. Hope all of this helps, and good luck!

If you are looking for a cheap mech/RDA setup, hit up www.fasttech.com. They are great clones for amazing prices. Here is a great little build for under $30. You are going to need a battery and a charger. Both can be picked up on amazon for about $10 a piece.

(DO NOT SKIMP ON BATTERIES FOR A MECH MOD)

4nine Mech mod ($18)

Mutation X V2 RDA ($8)

2 Efest High Drain 18650 Batteries
($17)

Nitecore Charger
($11)

I have the exact setup ^ and it hits like a beast. The mutation X is amazing. The adjustable airflow is awesome, and the flavor/vapor density is super great. If you have any more questions, hit me up.

EDIT: Lol downvotes? I am just trying to help someone out.

well my Arizer extreme Q is pretty stinky.

I don't know about other log Vapes, but like I said they kind of exceed that price

personally I like the xmax pro V2 (it's not in the video, but it's exactly like a boundless CF with an external battery), and get a smoke buddy to exhale through. you could do that while you're living there, and then when you move out get a bong; get the WPA and use it with bong it's way better

you want a smell proof case (edit as a note the case I have is just a pencil case not smell proof; it's the perfect size if I want to go somewhere cuz it'll hold the vape and two extra batteries and a doob tube. so normally I'll pack the vape, and that's enough for like four bowls) (I like the stuff here, extra batteries if you don't have them, and an external charger eventually.

3/4" pipe screens are must have for this vape as well. makes it so the weed doesn't drop out and there's less mess

edit also note, this is a session vape. so it may take much longer compared to an on-demand vape it really depends on what your use would be. I personally like getting high over like 45 minutes instead of like 10 minutes

Just note that you'd still need to have the trident in that case, which means connecting a wallwart and the USB-A. The VL adapter makes the entire setup super clean and simple. The price comparison isn't a no-brainer IMO, a TBT3-->DP adapter is anywhere from ~$15-20 on Amazon, first party VL @$40. The first party would be nicer to use, and futureproof.

I think it'd be a no-brainer to buy the VL adapter if you EVER decided to move the full setup around, but I assume most users will rarely (if ever) do that. An example would be if you wanted to bring VR around for parties, work events, etc. The VL adapter is a super no brainer in that case because you'd need an additional AC outlet, and three will already be taken up (minimum) for the 2 basestations and the laptop itself.

Thinking about this even more, you could theoretically battery power the basestations with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Talentcell-Rechargeable-6000mAh-Battery-Portable/dp/B00MF70BPU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=12V+battery+pack&qid=1557686834&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Then you'd only need one AC outlet for the entire setup with the VL adapter.

Yeah, all said and done, I'd think that the real beauty of the VL adapter wouldn't be fully appreciated except by like 1-2% of users. Having a really simple to deploy really high end setup would be super cool, but then inside-out starts making a lot more sense in that case...

btw the "V2 Splinter" is still in stock. The only difference is the V2 is Blackwood and $45.50 instead of $39. Btw it's totally worth the extra, the Blackwoods are all differnt but some has some amazing patterns... especially while your medicating. But yeah having a nice box mod is great, Splinter for flower, Sai for concentrate, and even carts with one device.

Btw I'd also recommend a charger like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07428G1G2. These are great they can charge fast when you need it and slow when you don't and they can completely drain and file your batteries every now and then, which can help get extra life out of the same batteries.

Get the mech you like the look of. You'll hear things like this one is better than that one because it has better plated contacts but unless you have a bunch of different mechs to compare it to than it really isn't going to make that much of a difference.

illuminationsupply has good batteries. I would recommend the sonys vtc5s

fasttech has very inexpensive mech clones

amazon has the best most inexpensive charger for only 15 dollars and free shipping with prime.

lightiningvape has some of the best prices on rebuildable supplies.

And that's pretty much all you need.

Not bad at all but you will eventually get another set of batteries so you might as well invest into a 4-bay charger for like an extra $5. Those batteries are good but you can save on that as well. Lastly, your mod is great but I stand by the RX200 with the quality and battery life.

RX200: http://www.eciggity.com/reuleaux-rx200-by-jaybo-design-wismec/

Batteries: http://www.illumn.com/18650-samsung-inr18650-25r-r5-2500mah-green-high-discharge-flat-top.html

Charger: http://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y

Saved you a few bucks and still getting top of the line stuff. Difference in those three items save you $10, not much but adequate.

There are many different replacement battery packs sold online, but I'm somewhat wary of any of them. Any which has 4 cells isn't going to be trustworthy unless it has a charging circuit built in to the battery pack, because you need to monitor the voltage of each battery cell individually and essentially charge each battery separately to be safe. Few if any budget battery packs will do that.

I would go the route of finding a decent case and then using your own 18650 batteries. That gives you control over what batteries you use, and lets you replace them on the go or over time as the eventually wear out.

For a case, something like the Fenix BA4C or this random case from Amazon should work. Then add 2x or 4x protected 18650 batteries.

For the batteries, I'd go with KeepPower 3400 mAh or the 2600 mAh ones if you don't need as much runtime. They use genuine Panasonic cells with a protection circuit, and are highly favored by /r/flashlight. Other trustworthy brands include Olight, Fenix, and Nitecore. Make sure you're buying from a legitimate distributor though; there are lots of fakes on eBay and Amazon.

A good charger would be the Nitecore i2 or i4.

The batteries I bought a couple months ago are the "Powerex 2700" ones. I haven't tried any batteries other than those or the stock batteries, but the Powerex were highly recommended when I was looking for batteries myself, and I have no complaints. Type "Powerex 2700" into Google search, and "Powerex 2700 mflb" is one of the autocomplete suggestions, haha. xD

The 2700 refers to milliamps, which is basically how much power they put out at any given time. I think 2700 is more power than the stock batteries ever put out (even before they started to degrade over 6 months). With 2700mA, you have to take faster draws or you'll scorch the herb. I always found the stock draws exceedingly slow, so I like not having to wait as long.

So those batteries are a good investment, and they're only $13 on Amazon for four batteries.

Now about chargers. If you try to charge a battery too quickly, it can seriously damage the battery. The stock charger is what's called a "trickle charger". Trickle chargers "trickle" only a small amount of charge into a battery, which means that they are safe to use on long-lasting, slow-charging batteries as well as short-lasting, fast-charging batteries.

The biggest issue with the stock charger is that it doesn't have overcharge detection. It's generally pretty safe to trickle-charge even a fully charged battery. What's NOT good is to leave a battery on trickle charge for days after it reached full capacity.

The charger that I got is this LaCrosse charger. It has three different charge rates, all of which are compatible with the Powerex batteries. I'm not sure if charging them quickly all the time is a good thing even if the batteries support it, but the option's there if I need it.

My favorite feature about the LaCrosse charger is "discharge" mode. What it does is completely empty the battery first, THEN recharge it. This is very, VERY good for your batteries. Unless you fully empty a NiMH (the type of battery the mflb uses) before recharging it again, it will have a "ghost" effect, which is basically tricking the battery into thinking that it's dead even when it shouldn't be yet.

The last cool feature of the LaCrosse charger is "discharge/refresh", which discharges and recharges the batteries 20 times. The charger's manual recommended refreshing new batteries at least once, which increases the performance or some such. You don't want to cycle a battery too much, though, since I know they're only supposed to handle a limited number of cycles. Cycling the battery is a good way to erase a ghosting problem, though.

So I recommend getting the Powerex 2700 at the very least. You can charge those in the stock charger, and simply buy new ones (they're only $12, after all) whenever they start to suck. But I really like my charger, too.

(Modified copypasta from a message I sent another redditor a while back. I hope this helps!)

Illumn.com, liionwholesale.com, mtnelectronics.com. Can't go wrong with any of them. I've also heard mostly good things about IMRbatteries.com.

As for chargers, Liitokala is well regarded as producing great chargers for the price point. I've been enjoying my Liitokala Lii-500, a 4-bay charger that handles a wide variety of cells and has analyzing functions to help keep track of the health of your cells and help ensure they're genuine. Can charge all four bays at 0.3, 0.5, 0.75, or 1A.

It's $21.39 at Banggood (if you can wait a couple weeks for delivery), or $28.90 at Amazon.

If you don't need analyzing function, the Liitokala Lii-402 is also good. Xtar also makes great chargers for the money, and they can be found at Illumn, Liionwholesale, Mtn Electronics, and IMR batteries, so if you order your batteries from any of those sites, you can get the charger at the same time and save on shipping.

Hey there, I'd definitely recommend Eneloops as well, I've been using them for about 4-5 years now.

I personally use the Panasonic Eneloop Pro's. The higher capacity is nice, you get a bit more mileage which for only a bit more money. The other brand I had in the past, but lost them around the house were Sanyo Eneloop XX. Overall the Panosonics are better as far as price and have bit more juice in them as well.

Pair an 8-pack of batteries with a good charger.

My charger is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RSOV50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Might be a bit of overkill, but I like all the smart charge features and options: autoshutoff/discharge/automated discharge then recharge/, it allows though you could easily find something cheaper; just make sure it's compatible with this type of battery.

Just make sure if you're shopping for bargin's on the batteries and you'll find them I'm sure, is that you're buying legit Eneloops. Believe it or not there are plenty of knock-offs or just busted brands that try to cash in.

> Couldn't I just get four 18650's, and then possibly a charger that can charge all four at once? without worrying about attending them?

Yes, I'd recommend this one.

The Vamo is a good choice because if you do ever break it, the replacements are wicked cheap.. but you'll have to wait for a replacement.

A tube mod with a Kick is more durable than just about any VV device. Even something as small as a Smoktech Bolt would work. With a Kick, it takes 18350's. With one extension sleeve, an 18490/18500 and a Kick, and with two extension sleeves, an 18650 and a Kick. You'll need something like a Smoktech Bolt or Altsmoke Silver Bullet with extension sleeves to use 18650's with your Kick. Mechanical mods are generally limited to "18650 size" which means you can only use 18490/18500's with the Kick.

I personally use the Bombshell Stinger from HotVapes which uses 26650 batteries with a Kick. With three batteries, I can go just about a full week. It might be out of your price range once you add in batteries, a charger, and a Kick, but it's pretty bulletproof and sounds like it's exactly what you're looking for.

Your idea on how to install the Kick is pretty spot on. Check this video out if you have any other questions.

Generally speaking, yes. If you buy a tube mod and a Kick, the only thing that would ever "break" is the Kick, which would still let you vape by just taking the Kick out. It'll usually be a sub-par vape since you're going off of the battery alone, but it'll work.

Also, just FYI, the Kick requires IMR batteries. Make sure you get good ones. AW, Efest, Panasonic or Samsung.

There are 3 basic rechargable lithium chemistry batteries out there currently

LiPo: Lithium Polymer

LiOn: Lithium Ion

LiFe: Lithium Iron (something). This is a special lithium battery that sacrifices capacity and voltage for safety. You can put a nail through one of these batteries and it won't explode or catch fire. They are almost ALWAYS in metal cylindrical casings.

Now. As far as regular battery chargers for consumer batteries, I recommend the (relabeled by countless companies) Nitecore one.

It's insanely popular on message boards dealing with consumer electronics, high end flash lights, and the like. It's a great, great item at a decent price point.

It comes in 2 versions, a 2 bay and a 4 bay charger.

2-bay charger (I2): http://www.amazon.com/NiteCore-IntelliCharger-i2-Charger-charging/dp/B009JMDD9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397224760&sr=8-1&keywords=Nitecore+charger

4-bay charger (i4): http://www.amazon.com/NITECORE-Intellicharge-universal-EdisonBright-converters/dp/B00GODG3X0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1397224760&sr=8-3&keywords=Nitecore+charger

It does not do 9v rechargeable batteries, but most chargers that do (that are consumer grade chargers) sacrifice everything to do so. It also does not do D-cell batteries, but a 2 dollar battery holder fixes that problem quickly. You put the D-cell batteries in the battery holder, then run wires to the charger. There is no functional difference between C and D batteries for most applications.

Hell, MOST D-CELL BATTERIES HAVE AN AA cell IN THE MIDDLE AND FILLER. An actual AA battery in the D-cell casing. I have plastic versions of that, so that you can use high capacity AA batteries in D and C-cell devices.

I recommend going that route for those batteries.

AA to D cell converter/adapter: http://www.amazon.com/eneloop-SEC-DSPACER4PK-Spacers-battery-cells/dp/B002V8C3W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397224984&sr=8-1&keywords=D+cell+converter

AA to C cell converter/adapter: http://www.amazon.com/eneloop-SEC-CSPACER4PK-Spacers-battery-cells/dp/B002V88HFE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397225050&sr=8-2&keywords=eneloop+c+converter

Those are eneloop brand, which is an extremely high end rechargable battery company. Their cells are relabeled and have been for over 5 years by Duracell, Energizer, and countless more.

Even Apple's rechargeable AA battery system uses relabeled Eleloop batteries! 30 bucks for 2 4 AA's and a charger is ridiculous when straight-labeled Eneloops are half that price.

The Eneloop adapters are the best I've ever used. Most cheap battery adapters are so flimsy they break inserting the damn battery.

I would stay with AA batteries and use the cell adapters. As it is, a high quality rechargeable AA has more capacity than MOST ALKALINE C and D sized batteries to begin with.

I hope this helped! The chargers I linked will do from AAA to C, up to 18650 and 26650 INDUSTRIAL LIPO cells. It's a GREAT charger that will do everything you need it to, faster and far better than anything you'll buy at Best Buy or Walmart.

Seriously. Buy that charger, some Eneloops, and never worry about it again.

I don't use rechargable 9v's but I'm probably going to have to soon!

Ok. Well, thanks to all you guys I spent WAY more than I had planned 🤣😂

I woke up to my wife asking “did you buy things last night?”
Me: “Yes”
Her: “did you make 3 purchases?” (She got PayPal notifications on her phone)
Me: “Yes” (as I sneak out the room)

Here’s what I ended up getting:

• TN40S
  
• M43 (I got the 219 is that the best one?)
  
• Armytek Wizard Pro v3 XHP50
  
  Batteries:
  
  
• 4 x 3400 mah batteries Are these right for the Thrunite?
  
  
• Unprotected Samsung 30Q 3000mAh batteries (the ones that were an add on for the Meteor)
  
  
• A Nitecore i4 charger
  
  If you have a chance please review my purchases... if I made any mistakes with batteries please let me know! Thank you all so much, it’s great to experience a level of peer pressure with a group of friends I just subscribed to 24 hours ago ;).

Did some research, here's I think my bargain basement lighting kit, and good reviews too.

• $50 Neewer flash with wireless trigger. a nice manual flash that comes with a wireless trigger. You put one trigger on the flash, and the other in your camera's flash shoe, and bam, radio triggered flash.
  
• Neewer stand/shoe/umbrella kit for $33. It comes with three umbrellas.
  
• Rechargeable batteries for your flash. I've had good luck with my Energizers, and they are cheap at $13 for a charger + 4 AA's. I'd buy two of them because the cheapest price on a 4 pack is $11, so why not spend the extra $2 for the charger to have a backup charger.
  
  There, you're good to go for wireless flash for ~$100, manual flash power, works with any camera that has a flash shoe.
  
  If you can only spend $50, then just get the flash separately for $30 and the batteries. Then you can get the radio triggers, light stand, and umbrellas later when you have the money to spare.
  
  Also, eventually, you may want to get a larger umbrella - I use an Impact 60" convertible umbrella. Big, beautiful, soft light. I have two of these; they have 4.5 stars on amazon, great umbrella. They are a little unwieldy though; 60" is a big umbrella to deal with.

I love the MVP. I love being able to chain vape on it all day long for at least 2 days before having to charge it. It is decently priced too. You can get it at vapingme.com for around 35 dollars.

The VTR has a ring on it that you can cut off with a dremel. I have seen pics of it on ecr before and it looks really nice. It is more expensive though. Around 70 on vapingme. Maybe more. You can get it at other sites for 70 I think? I have not really priced it. Both the MVP and VTR can take a pounding. I have seen them both after falling from a great height and from being run over and they work like a dream after. The VTR takes batteries but I am unsure exactly what kinds. This site lets you know what batteries to get, don't pay attention to the price because you can get it cheaper at other places. http://www.myvaporstore.com/Innokin_iTaste_VTR_p/ink-vtr.htm The batteries you have to get a charger for as well. The http://smile.amazon.com/i4-2014-Intellicharge-EdisonBright-converters/dp/B00KBFZDI8/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407165719&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore+i4. It will do you right. YOu can get your batteries from here: http://www.illumn.com/18650-efest-imr18650-v1-2100mah-high-discharge-button-top.html A tank that will fit well on the VTR is the Nautilus Mini or Aerotank Mini. Here is a site for the Aspire Mini.http://101vape.com/clearomizers-glassomizers/360-genuine-aspire-nautilus-mini.html

IF you purchase anything from Vapingme.com use the code "reddit" to get 12% off and orders over 30$ or more get free shipping.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask!

Many, probably the majority, of battery portions or "mods" use removable 18650 batteries. The advantage of this is easily swappable batteries, so if one runs out of juice you can just pop in another. Also, batteries by nature degrade over time, so mods with built in batteries will eventually perform poorly if not die outright.

I'd recommend an iStick Pico kit, and juice from Blue Dot Vapors. I haven't bought juice in a while since I make my own but they're my favorite juice vendor for the cheap price range, and pretty much anything from them should be delicious. Some might need to "steep" though - basically let it sit for a few days to cure. They do have presteeped juice though.

Make sure to be educated about battery safety. NEVER, EVER NEVER NEVER EVER NEVER carry a loose 18650 in a pocket or bag because something like keys or coins could short the battery, causing it to essentially explode violently. 18650 cases are cheap and convenient.

It's generally recommended to always charge 18650's via an external charger, like this or this. The Pico does have a USB charging port, and for everyday use it's probably fine, but it might possibly, maybe, not be 100% safe to leave it plugged in for long periods of time. See this thread and this thread. It's probably fine though.

Or just get him a Juul. I've never tried one, want to though, but from what I hear it's about the closest experience to actually smoking, and it's simpler too. The only downside is buying the pods. I think there are ways to refill them with juice though.

Also, just search around.

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/search?q=quit+smoking&restrict_sr=on&sort=relevance&t=all

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/search?q=best+starter+kit&sort=relevance&restrict_sr=on&t=year

Yeah batteries like this.

And if you have an external charger you'll never worry about power again.

I have a Pax 2, and while the battery life is good and I know the Pax 3 is a decent unit, the removable battery of the Davinci won it for me.

Sorry to hear about your performance though. I still love my FF, it works great except for the overheating. But my tolerance is increasing and I'd like a cake that can handle more flower at a time.

Edit: Typo

It's a good charger, but it doesn't display the voltage like this one does.

As a someone who is new to handling lithium ion batteries, it would be a good thing for you to know what the voltage is so you didn't wear your cell down to nothing. You will eventually keep track of it in your mind, and pretty much know when it needs charging by how much you use your light.

I'm just saying, buy a couple quality cells and at least a semi intelligent charger. Jumping into the world of lithium ion, you'll be glad you did, and you will have less worries and more fun.

If it's worth anything, i've owned my P12 for about 6 months and find it worth $50 in every way. Im pretty sure both will serve you well.

The voltage indicator i find very useful. Just hold mode and click on/off button and instantly know if you're good to go or not.

The 1 lumen mode is fine for me. I use it to read at night from time to time. I dont sleep next to anyone so i cant comment on whether or not they'll be distracted or not.

I havent used any of the 'special' modes on the P12 seriously, other then to scare my friends when they are on their computer's. Though the beacon could be useful when you're changing a tire on a dark road.

These are apparently good batteries, I dont have them personally but this has been linked quite a few times in other forums. What i bought were Nitecore's own branded 2300mAh 18650's. Not worth the premium really but are just as good as any other quality batteries.

I also own the Nitecore D2 charger. Works perfectly fine for me. Alot of people seem to dislike slow chargers such as this so take that into consideration. Charging from 3.43v to 4.15v takes about 5 hours.

If you have anymore questions about the P12 feel free to ask.

For your Batteries? Nitcore i4, easily. It's got a safety cut out and great charge time, and it's the best value for the money. I love my Nitecore. Well built, definitely can see and feel the build quality between that and my old Trustfire.

Here it is on Amazon for cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416037391&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore+intellicharger+i4&pebp=1416037395738

I'd also like to recommend for you a Nitecore D2 charger and purchase some good batteries over at www.illumn.com, I personally use Samsung 25r's but you can check out Mooch's battery list for other great cells. Battery safety should be a priority but it's really nothing to worry about as long as you have a good charger and good batteries.

Link to 25r battery: http://www.illumn.com/18650-samsung-inr18650-25r-r5-2500mah-green-high-discharge-flat-top.html

Charger: https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO

If you have any questions you could hit me up or ask in the questions thread.

There are different accessories I have bought and has made my experience better.

Cable management: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Audio upgrade:

- Cheap (For just exploring around and watching videos) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B486K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Expensive (Mainly for playing games and having a mic instead of the built in mic since it's buggy on the headset) - https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Flight-Detachable-Comfortable/dp/B077ZGRY9V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3D960PSK6KV35&keywords=hyperx+cloud+flight&qid=1564661727&s=electronics&sprefix=hyperx+cloud+%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRkdWSElOUU5JREhTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDYwNzUxMVZSTjVPU1pFS0Y1USZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTEwOTk2MVgyMkUwMjdWRlo1MyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

Controller grips:

These arrive today so I can't say if they are good or bad yet but I've only heard good - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCF9P73/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I've had these for awhile and they work great (if you have larger hands, these are perfect) - https://www.mamutvr.com/collections/upcoming/products/mamut-touch-grip

​

Headset power:

I've heard people have had tracking issues due to insufficient power from their usb ports, my RTX 2080 has a dedicated USB-Type C that I use to power my headset and haven't had any tracking issues - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Rechargeable batteries for the controllers:

I've heard other people recommend different batteries but these have worked well for me - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IM3P8GS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All NiMH AA chargers work with any NiMH AA battery. (Most also charge AAA NiMH batteries.)

The old and dependable 4xAAA or AA, NiMH or NiCad charger is the Maha/Powerex MH-C9000. It can test cells and measure it's capacity, but you have to set the charging current. It's a bit pricey though. ~$53. It's my tried and true and I trust it will last for years.
https://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MH-C9000-WizardOne-Charger-Analyzer-Batteries/dp/B003DIGKOG

My other analyzing charger charges NiMH/NiCad and most types of rechargeable lithium cells 18650 and smaller to 10440. It's not as well built as the Powerex, but charges more types of cells and is less expensive: the Opus BT-C3100
I think the most recent version is v2.2 and is approximately $42
https://www.amazon.com/Opus-BT-Intelligent-Compatible-Batteries/dp/B01852TBOU
I use this to recharge both my NiMH AAA/AA's as well as my 18650 flashlight batteries. Opus has a NiMH only version of the charger, that I've not used: the BT-C2400 that sells for around $30.

For my NiMH C and D cells I use an Ansmann 8 plus charger that doesn't have a fancy LCD display, so cannot be adjusted or show voltage, charge current, nor capacity. But it does have 4 independent charging channels for C and D cells and 6 for AA and AAA cells. Apparently they go for $25 now... I paid a lot more for mine.
https://www.amazon.com/ANSMANN-Universal-Maintenance-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B003V89RYS
I use this for the NiMH C/D cells that go into various Nerf flywheel blasters. I also use it for AA/AAA's when I need to charge a whole lot of batteries and the rest of my chargers are already being used.

The chargers at Ikea suck, don't buy them.
The chargers that came with the Eneloop packs that Costco used to sell, are nice individual channel chargers, but they're super, super slow overnight chargers when you put 4 cells in them.

A good source for NiMH/Lithium cell and charger info is the candlepower forums: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?9-Flashlight-Electronics-Batteries-Included

You don't already have the PD35? In that case, I would recommend a different light. The PD35 isn't bad, but the very similar Thrunite TN12 is generally regarded as better around here because:

• It comes in neutral white, which the vast majority prefer over cool white; the PD35 only comes in cool white.
  
• The TN12 does not have timed stepdowns in any mode, while the PD35 automatically steps down twice in the highest mode.
  
• The TN12 can tailstand and the PD35 cannot.
  
• The TN12 has a lower low mode.
  
  Alternately, there's the TC12, essentially a TN12 with a battery included and a MicroUSB charging port so you don't need a separate charger. Coupon code "THRUNITE" will save you a bit of money on either of these.
  
  The batteries I already linked are my recommendation for batteries. Chargers depend a bit on your preferences:
  
  
• The Xtar MC1 and MC2 chargers are about as inexpensive as a safe and reliable charger gets from a US-based dealer.
  
• The Nitecore F1 also acts as a USB powerbank.
  
• The Thrunite C2 is a fully-enclosed design similar to the smaller sealed powerbanks you've probably seen, but with a removable battery. It is not sold separately from the battery, but the included battery is of good quality.
  
• The Nitecore D4 is an inexpensive four-slot charger with a voltage display and the ability to handle NiMH (AA and AAA rechargeable) as well as Li-ion.
  
• The Opus BT-C3100 is a four-slot charger that also handles NiMH (AA and AAA rechargeable), lets you select charging current, displays voltage, tests capacity, tests resistance and reconditions NiMH cells that have lost capacity.

With about $30 you can get some cheapest CR123 lights, like Fenix E15. At 170 lumens it's much brighter than just about any single AA light at this price range, while still being very compact.

Only issue specific to CR123 you need to be aware of is the much less common battery format itself. It limits you to using 3v lithium primaries that are no cheaper than $1.5 a piece or RCR123A Li Ion rechargeables - AW seem to be the most recommended ones and can be bought here for $6 a piece - you'd also need a charger for them bringing total initial cost into $40 range. Sticking to primaries is simpler but more expensive in the long run.

Personally I'd stick to AA lights trading off higher output of CR123 (or Li Ion in general) for better availability of primary (non rechargeable) cells and much less volatile chemistry of NiMH rechargeables. It depends on your goals - whether it needs to be more impressive or more reliable (my choice, also affects the quality level I'm not willing to go below).

As far as a proper recommendation would go: my own choice in that price range is Olight i3s EOS (I also bought eneloops and a charger for mine) - it's tiny, uses common battery format, has sufficient throw and brightness on high mode and decently dim moonlight. For your brightness focus though I'd go with either Fenix E12 - you can get AA cells in every corner of the world or E15 if you intend to use it closer to home/city and won't be fucked over by not being able to buy CR123 when you need them.

Depends if you're interested in the 18650 mechanical mods or more like box mods.

If you started on a kanger tank of any kind, most would consider a Nautilus an upgrade. But venturing further the Kayfun is probably a better option if you take the time to build and learn.

As for mods; You could use a Nautilus on an MVP 2.0 for a box mod. All the way up to DNA chip mods which just give you more exclusive control over your exact power input to the coil.

I started with an eGo-C and eventually decided to try new stuff. Clearomizers and different tanks. Kanger T3's to PT2. Cartos and all kinds of bs.

If I had to recommend you a set up via my personal tastes and through real testing. I would tell you to buy:

1. Sony VTC-4 18650 battery as many as you'd like.
   VTC-4 Purchase LINK
   
   
2. A mechanical mod like a Nemesis or Stingray.
   Nemesis Clone Purchase LINK
   
   
3. 28 Gauge Kanthal for learning and use.
   Kanthal Purchase Link
   
   
4. A charger.(You can use any kind you like but there are safety precautions to be had with batteries if you sub-ohm especially)
   Charger Purchase LINK
   
   
5. A 510 connection ohm meter.
   Ohm Meter
   
   
6. Organic Pure Cotton - Boiling them is your choice to do or not.
   Cotton LINK
   
   And your own e-liqid of course.
   
   None of these items are necessary to vape on and are not of a professionally organized list. But they'll definitely move you on up in the vaping world and your experience can be completely tailored however you like with these items.

Mech - I have the magneto and it preforms like a champ. Absolutely no complaints. I'd look at a nemesis clone by hcigar as well.

http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-nemesis-mod/

http://www.myvaporstore.com/SMOKTech_Magneto_Stainless_VE_p/smok-ssve.htm


Atty - Igo W. It has amazing preformance, and for $20 or so you cant beat it. I'd also recomend this top cap. It will make it look flush on a magneto, nemesis or any 22mm mod. It fits right on top of the Igo W and gives you airflow control. Watch the video on their site.

http://www.v-apes.com/The-Vapes-Cap-for-the-IGO-W_p_515.html

http://www.myvaporstore.com/IGO_W_Rebuildable_Atomizer_p/yd-igow.htm


Batteries - Sony Vtc4. Best batteries. you can get two for under $25. Make sure you get at least 2.

http://www.myvaporstore.com/SONY_VTC4_18650_2000mAh_Battery_Flat_Top_30A_p/sny65020-f.htm


Charger - In my opinion the Nitecore i4 is the best charger. It gets the job done and is dirt cheap on Amazon and free two day shipping with prime.

http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398042719&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore+i4

sure, Here for a nice charger. This is the one i use and it was around $40 until a month ago. For batteries i suggest these, or these. For reference, they are both IMR chemistry batteries which is good, The price difference stems from the mAh difference. Having used both myself, the 2000 mAh efest will last just about all day (unless I'm partying or drinking) and is a good deal but the green ones are 3400mAh, giving you roughly 2 days per battery. Also noteworthy, the green ones charge in about three hours on the charger I listed.

You may be able to find better deals on the batteries out there but not likely for the charger. Because of this, I intentionally went with amazon, so you could save a bit on shipping.

Edit: added paragraph 2.

Here's what I use... It doesn't totally fit the bill for you, but other readers who want an ultracheap, ultraversatile high end light setup for hiking may be interested.


Convoy S2: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1883302

Beam Diffuser: http://www.fasttech.com/product/1140010 (so you can use the light as a lamp at camp)

Red lens: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1630/10003970/1499103-nitecore-nfr25-25-4mm-filter-for-flashlights (don't quote me if it fits, reviews suggest it will)

Lanyard: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009328/1825605-nitecore-ntl10-tactical-lanyard-for-led-flashlight http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009328/1825604-nitecore-ntl20-tactical-lanyard-for-led-flashlight (So that it's attached to your pack's arm strap while on your head, fuck dropping your light in a puddle.)

Head strap: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009326/1825601-nitecore-hb02-elastic-nylon-headband http://www.fasttech.com/products/1630/10012146/2062807-adjustable-elastic-band-for-headlamp etc

Charger: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO

Batteries: Up for debate, you want protected li-ion cells with the most mah's you can get. panasonic samsung sony aw etc are all good cells.

Bam. All in one you have an insanely bright and floody headlamp, a flashlight and a camping lamp, with no chance of dropping it while transitioning from headlamp to flashlight, a bit of water resistance, and no dirt/debris issues (like you would have with a zoomer.) The setup is great for people who want to take the approach of "flashlight that can be a headlamp." If you're looking for a headlamp that can double as a flashlight, zebra makes good ones and I'm sure nitecore would have some offerings.

IMO if you're not hiking through a place where you could buy AA/AAA batteries there's no reason you should not be using 18 li-ion cells. The only advantage to AA/AAA/cr setups is that you can pop into town and run your light off of batteries from the store shelf. If you're hiking the PCT or traveling away from home such a setup makes sense because there's towns and such along the way but if you're hiking a mountain or in the wilderness you'd be foolish not to be using 18 li-ion cells.

Okay, going to give you 3 gear lists, one with AC powered strobes, one with speed lights, and one with a wireless mini strobe.

AC powered strobes

https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Monolight-Wireless-Photography-Lighting/dp/B075HBCTYY x2 - These are your strobes - $238

https://www.amazon.com/Godox-X1T-C-Wireless-Transmitter-Camera/dp/B01DU5L7VC - Wireless transmitter, this is what fires your strobes - $46

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WGNSTE - x2 - Light Stands - $48

https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Portable-Collapsible-Speedring-Speedlite/dp/B01M5KA29C - Softbox and speed ring - $76

For a Grand Total of $408

This is a 2 light setup capable of lighting everything from a single baby to a group of people with two large softboxes for nice soft light, but cannot be used without a power outlet

Speedlight setup

https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Wireless-Speedlite-Transmitter-2xDiffuer/dp/B019MQE7R4/ - Godox TT600 Speedlights and trigger - $176

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WGNSTE - x2 - Light Stands - $48

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Collapsible-centimeters-Speedlite-Photography/dp/B075XJ8WTT x 2 - Bracket and softbox (not as big as the ones with the strobes because this is supposed to be a more portable kit) - $66

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MZ104A-eneloop-Advanced-Battery/dp/B00N05RL22 - Batteries and charger - $39

Total cost $329 for a 2 speedlight kit that is super portable and rechargeable batteries and a charger. Downside to this kit is it is less power, that will be fine for inside for most things, but can easily have other things added to it as she needs more, You could add a single Studio strobe from above and use the speedlights with it, or add in more speedlights, or other lights

Mini Strobe setup

https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Speedlite-Wireless-Transmitter-MicroFiber/dp/B06WWKDYT7/ - AD200 (same power as 3 speedlights in 1 light with trigger $345

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WGNSTE - Light stand - $24

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Multifunctional-Speedlite-Carrying-Photography/dp/B00IM3W8L6 - Softbox and bracket - $42

This kit comes to $411. The upside to this kit is you get a lot of power in a single light, that is super portable and runs off a battery pack. This is my on location setup, I take a single light and a single modifier and use it for 80% of my shoots, add in a reflector and I can do 90% of my shoots. And almost 100% of on location ones. The speed lights just don't have enough power in the sun, but this does.



Now with all of that said, you can mix and match any of the Godox 2.4 ghz wireless stuff and use the same trigger for all of it. So You could have 1 studio strobe 2 speedlights and an AD200, and the same trigger will work for all of it. Starting out I used speedlights for over a year till I moved up to my AD200, and soon will move up to even more power, but can still do most of my shoots with just speedlights if i needed to.

This La Crosse Charger gets among the best reviews on Amazon for chargers, but there are quite a few 1-star reviews that say it has melted or starts fires. Lots of 5-star reviews, but saying "this product probably won't burn your house down" isn't good enough for me.

I own two Maha chargers, this and this one both are excellent. I had my first C401FS break; they sent me a replacement with no charge, so I'm very happy with their service. Not a Buy-it-for-life quality product, not many electronics are, but they make the best stuff in this category.

I think this kit might be a better deal. I have the same kit and it's wonderful. Flys my gopro/gimbal, amp data link, and a 2200lipo just fine (6 min flight times). http://www.altitudehobbies.com/iflight-frame-combo-kits/iflight-i450b-450mm-quadcopter-flight-combo

I love my APM boards, and would recommend one in a second. But save your money now, that's something you can upgrade later. Get off the ground with a cheaper FC and see how everything goes.

Edit: Charger I own 2, they work well - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_BnNIwbFQYR1R8

No, I'm pretty sure that is for a different battery chemistry. Check this out, this charger is the best I've used so far and I use it for e-cigs, the mflb, etc. It handles everything
Edit: I am a dumbass, yeah that would totally work, but I still strongly recommend that Nitecore. Don't fuck around with battery safety :)

I know you specifically said base but I highly recommend changing your entire life over to rechargeable eneloop aa's. You'll save a lot of money in the long run since they last for over 1000 charges. Get a good charger like this La Crosse Technology BC-700 Alpha Power Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_nmyOub154D833

I hope to god that links. Not sure how to do it on ialien.

I charged like that for a long time, pretty much until the shield came off. The same thing happened to my brother-in-law's Revenger X around the same time. I still charge using that port in a pinch so I'm not saying never do it.

Here's what convinced me though:

1. You're not reversing the charge through the board which is just easier on it in the long run
   
2. I can now check the battery condition between each swap. Before, I never checked the batteries due to laziness and "out of site out of mind"
   
3. Instant full charge!! I didn't realize how much I would LOVE this! Now I don't have to leave it while it's charging...just swap the batteries and BAM...full charge.
   
   I got the 2 extra batteries for $20 and I got the external charger for $20. Plus I can use the external charger as a power bank for my phone as an added bonus.
   
   I'll try to get links for the charger and batteries added here.
   
   Xtar PB2 (crap, it's like $5 cheaper now lol)
   
   Speedy 18650 Battery Charger XTAR PB2 w/Power Bank Function, Portable Li-ion 18650 Battery Charger Box w/USB Port and LED Digital Display（Batteries NOT Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D48V1Y7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w8.RCbVZPS8F4
   
   Batteries
   
   https://www.vpnjuice.com/product-page/lithicore-batteries
   
   Edit: added links

Just a heads up I am new to this form, so no way a expert but I use this nitecore charger that was recommend on another form. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0096U26QQ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have also saw others on here use this one with the LCD screen, if your into the numbers aspect. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KW2ZDJO/ref=psdc_10063711011_t1_B0096U26QQ

​

Now for banggood , I did use paypal and used my credit card on there so I have 2 companies backing me for fraud protection but just like ebay I think they are mostly safe with some venders being bad apples. Just be willing to wait a month for your light with no tracking because they never update it. The company selling this light though sells a lot every day so I would not worry with this vender. Hope that helps if you have anymore questions I would be glad to help :)

Have you tried looking at the nitecore intellicharger? They're not terrible money on amazon. I've had great luck with my i2, although I've had it since end of June but they're supposed to he great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005UAI372/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1381077327&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165
I don't know where you're located but that's a link for US. Happy Vaping!

I got a single 18650 digital heat control mod and a divine tribe .8ohm ceramic atomizer for it. here's the link to where I got the mod for $30 when most places have it for $50-80 https://www.myfreedomsmokes.com/heatvape-invader-mini-v2.html

you will need at least 1 18650 battery (Recommend a samsung 25R or LG HE4 or similar IMR chemistry battery) and a charger for it in addition to the atomizer and mod. you should be able to obtain 2 batteries and a charger for $30 if you shop for it, but i highly recommend getting this charger if you can afford it and have other friends with mods, especially if they use mechanical mods since they will love you forever for being able to check their battery voltage whenever they want. http://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y

Great story! I hope to be able to share a story like this, but maybe a little less hassle lol.
Flashlights/headlamps are my favorite so sorry about the long write up.

I don't know what head lamp or flash light your using but I recommend you switch over to using 18650 batteries. Batteries are a little heavier and bigger than the normal AA, but they last a lot longer and are rechargeable.


Everything you need to switch will run you about 25 for the charger, 40-50 on the headlamp, 40-50 on the flash light. and about 30 for 4 batteries. Out the door your looking at 155 give or take.


Also if your using the head lamp and your battery dies, you can just swap with your flash light battery.


Link is to the head lamp I use. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYJJQM4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


This link is to the flash light I use. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWW907A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Batteries I use. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.


https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-protective-plastic/dp/B01N9HB03A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540525653&sr=8-3&keywords=18650+lg+battery&dpID=41kKYj1u54L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


and the charger I have been using. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.


https://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540525708&sr=8-1&keywords=efest+luc+v4+lcd+charger

You're lucky you didn't burn your house down, but there's still time for that if you try to get creative without understanding different charge logics. Lithium batteries require a completely different type of charging (CC/CV) than NiMH (float or CC/peak), and there's no cute little circuit you can add to the X9D charger to make it play nicely with the 18650's. Even putting in a stepdown pack will essentially trickle charge the batteries, which can cause them to grow dendrites and be ruined if you don't have a way to monitor charge voltage and unplug the charger once it stabilizes.

Save yourself a lot of heartache and buy an 18650 charger to treat the cells right. If you don't like removing them to charge, you could also wire on a balance connector and use a LiPo charger, with appropriate settings.

4-5 hits and I'm feeling pretty good. I've found that the most important factor, is the battery. Like how long to hold the battery before attempting to sip. And knowing how often and how much to sip to keep a good temp. And that as you vape a trench and use up the battery, it takes longer.


Also, about charging them. I don't recommend using the charger that came with your mflb. I know with mine the batteries got really hot with it. I have This One that I got from Amazon. Its fantastic.

If your in a pinch and need to charge on the go (say in your car or whatever) it works, but for best (and quicker) results. Charge enternally. Here is a link for an external charger.

Happy Vaping :)

I'm Just north of you where the other tornados hit, and I ironically have the same issue with my SO. One thing I've found that helps, that helped her see was taking a weekend camping trip to a few state parks.

• Its cheap,
  
• scenic,
  
• night skys can be beautiful
  
• campfires
  
• many sites available depending on time, place, and how you book.
  
• some have power, = great for the noobs / keep the wife from killin ya.
  
• you can get your more ruffing it / prepping stuff out that she'll miss and want, then you just suggest she has a bag too. (then she bites you head off as she takes it from you)
  
• you'll quickly learn how fun it is if you dont have things to prepare food or clean water.
  
• learn how to pack and bring good food for 2-4 days, ice can disappear quickly and food can suck if not done right.
  
• "I'm so cold, how can I get warm!?" (happened before better sleeping bags / covers)
  
• "this 2 person tent is for 1 child!"...yea seriously wth (before 6 per tent)
  
• "This bed sucks, how can i even sleep well on this?" (happened before the air mattress)
  
• "I wish I had ear plugs, cant sleep in this different place"
  
• My SO can't stand fishing :( but that can be an experience for anyone. (bonus if you filet and cook it)
  
• depending on what your doing you'll quickly find out if your footwear is adequate.
  
• My socks are wet :/ ahhh! mud!
  
• "I really suck at hiking" (out of shape AF...big prep is your body) some tails will quickly make you realize your health.
  
• "is that poison ivy? How do it identify this?"
  
• " I can't see anything in this darkness!" (she stole my freakin flashlight!)
  
• "cell service sucks, and my battery is dying!" ..like half of Ohio on Monday night....(stole my 18650 charger!)
  
• Yeah...Camping...so many weird things happen that you have to Prep for.
  
  We kind of went overboard on the tent and bed, and kind of glad we did, its not too small and not too big to just throw in the car and run, its a 6 person with a 12v blow up queen, enough room for the bed, dog, and gear in the tent. Don't skimp on the weather / water tightness of it, and buy a footprint tarp to go down first to not get holes in the floor, there have been times we had to weather terrible rain and cold. That's the other thing, nights often get cold, keep that in mind.
  
  The more major stuff in prepping for me have been digital books / info / data on how to fix things, tools, machines, and fuel, that get used in some way in a bad situation or good (aka not just used in emergency)
  
  18650 flashlights are super useful for EDC and prep, https://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_391921.html?wid=1433363+ can be used as a EDC hand warmer, (+gf points in winter) and the 18650s can be charged and used for charging phones and such with something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D48V1Y7/?coliid=I2DQROVJXP5RJX&colid=UU7OS3H310T1&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it great for keeping things charged in a power out situation.
  
  ​
  
  TLDR: Tent / Car camping, You'll learn fast and it can be fun!

Nice find on the holders! I didn't even think about looking for holders like that... I just found these..

I currently have one of these. It would be so much easier and cost effective than purchasing another charger, and soldering up balancer leads on my diagram...

The Opus BT is really nice, I like the data screens for each individual cell.

Thanks!

If you don't mind waiting fast tech is great heres a great rda and good mod for $15

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10012340/2088800-tugboat-styled-18650-mechanical-mod-w-rda-atomizer

Also grab an ohm reader there as well for $5

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010372/1897900-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter

Here's some kanthal I suggest 26 gauge 25 feet Is about $4

http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire

Also pick up a battery for about $8 or two for $14 (worth having a backup battery) use the coupon "lv15" for 15% off

http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/samsung-inr-18650-25r-battery

I'd suggest this charger for $12

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0096U26QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421740585&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41E7nbJ5btL&ref=plSrch

And these screwdrivers if your local dollar store doesn't have it for $4

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B00009OYGV/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Roughly under $50 for a good setup in my opinion

I found Ni-MH rechargeables to be fairly unreliable, not due to the batteries themselves but with the bodypacks' battery indicators. Due to the wide variety of Ni-Mh batteries on the market that all have different characteristics that will affect their performance, especially how they are charged over their usable lifetime, it's pretty difficult to get a good readout on just how much juice you have left with any given set of batteries. Shure has documented this difficulty and their battery life estimates for Ni-MH batteries vary widely. I can only imagine that other manufacturers face the same difficulties.


You can help alleviate this by manually gathering data yourself from the battery through the use of a smart charger that will also help you keep the battery life stable if used to charge properly. But even with this insight on hand, I was having a hard time relaying the info to performers who tended to freak out when their batteries go from a full 5 bars and then the battery indicators suddenly start tanking. I had seen a graph (From PowerStream's own tests) and read some info (That I can't recall the links of off hand, but I remember reading on flashlight websites and forums) that indicated with Ni-Mh a steady voltage over a certain time period with a sharp drop off of voltage near it's end of life depending on the power draw. That tracked pretty well with my use with the Shure bodypacks which would indicate a full 4-5 bars over a short time period and then rapidly go down to 2 bars. Contrast that with off-the-shelf AA and proprietary Li-Ion batteries which have a fairly consistent set of characteristics and a steady, smooth voltage drain that leads to a predictable battery life that manufacturers are able to tune for in their battery indicator algorithms.

Edit: And that claim on the radio transmissions sounds like BS to me unless they're just referencing possibly poorer transmitter/receiver performance as the batteries die out.

If you want a pretty boss charger, here it is.

A higher quality charger will make your batteries last longer and do other things like show you the health of each one, charge at different rates (heat/longevity vs speed) and allow you to charge individual batteries without having to pair them up.

I had a pair of Turtle Beach x41 headphones that would eat up a pair of AAAs in about 12 hours, so I was changing them every day and a half or so. I ended up getting 4 Sanyo Eneloops and swapping them out for 2 years in college and they worked amazing.

If you have things that chew through batteries, get good rechargeable and a good charger. If you're going to throw them into your TV remote or something, stick with normal disposable.

On the charger I have the nitecore i4 you can charge up to 4.35v I believe, well, that’s what it says on the screen.

I’ve gone ahead and ordered 4 batteries from Fogstar (amazing price and discount so thanks guys for the heads up), and will fully charge those batteries. The more I come to think of it, the more I think the batteries may just now be completely spent from constant charging only to 3.7 and nothing more.

So just to clarify one last thing, because I seem to be a complete mong when it comes to the batteries, the charger i have is this one:

Nitecore Intellicharge I4 V2 Universal 4 Channel Li-Ion/Ni-Cd/Ni-Mh Smart Charger
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005UAI372/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6tQ9Bb7PNW8PK

I should charge at 4.2v as 3.7v is a nominal charge and the batteries can only charge up to 4.2v anyway right?

The 4.35v is just what the charger could charge up to but the batteries are limited.

If the above is correct I think I get you now and thanks for your help! Would just appreciate if you confirm

Cheers

Z

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWMFB9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one is amazing, and charges fast. Has 3 different charge speed settings. Best Charger i ever bought. The nitecore one I had originally completely died on me.

Edit* Going back I realize you stated you're in UK. I posted a US link. My apologies. But you can use that to find one on UK Amazon I'm sure lol Best of luck to you

I bought this telescope too on Prime Day. I'm also researching what accessories are recommended. So here's something I didn't know. The GOTO computer thingy runs on 8 AA batteries. If your moving around a lot, the batteries get toasted pretty quickly. Turns out we can get a rechargeable lithium ion battery pack for about $30.00.

There's also the option AC adapter for about $20.00. Celestron sells a "Power Tank" power source, but that doesn't seem like such a good purchase.

If you need to update the software on the GOTO system, apparently Celestron didn't include the needed cable. That's another $14.00. But the thing is, that cable is an ancient 9 pin interface, and isn't compatible with a lot of laptops. You may also need an adapter for another $14.00. Or you can opt for the Wifi adapter for $90.00.

To set the computer up, you need to manually enter a lot of data about your location. Once you power down, the data is lost. Celestron has this GPS device which seems to have pretty good reviews.

That's a lot of accessories. Not sure what exactly I've gotten myself into. I just wanted to stargaze. lol

<3 love you guys, any batteries you reccomend? I just got this as my first mod, I heard the Sony 26650 were the best around:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10007488/1728004

Also, any feelings on this charger? Looks nice and has good reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LCHICAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

your local B&M "should" have them. i have used lots and Nitecore are by far the best out there and there a good price for peace of mind. Happy vaping!


https://www.amazon.com/version-Nitecore-Intellicharge-Universal-Battery/dp/B01HOP6ADE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483631366&sr=8-7&keywords=nitecore+charger

I don't think you'll find any 18650, usb-rechargeable lights with lower than .4 lumens. Most people would consider anything sub-lumen good for the purposes you describe, so there aren't many options that go lower.

If you disagree, the compromise may be to get a H600fd III like others suggested (compromising on usb charging, but gaining ultra low modes). Then get a Wowtac USB rechargeable battery. I don't know for sure this battery will fit. It's possible it is too long and you would want to check this before purchasing if interested.

Alternatively, carry a Nitecore F2 or F1 as your charger/powerbank and bring extra 18650 batteries. Carry them in cases like this. Carry unused batteries in one pocket of your backpack and move them to another pocket when drained. This is my setup for backpacking, although I haven't tried it since switching away from a traditional power bank (which is heavier and less efficient than having removable batteries).

Your last option is to get the Elf C2 and carry a separate map light if you find .4 lm to be insufficient. I don't think you'll find any other good alternatives.

just to throw in, you will also need/want an external battery charger. I have a nitecore d2, that I am happy with. This is a safety concern and a practical one. Batteries can explode if not handled well, so they could take out your device and cause property damage, and some models with on board charging have crappy ports that will break.

Also you will probably want to get 2 sets of batteries since it takes a few hours for them to charge. This way you can swap them and it should help with the batteries life span.

As mentioned the sony 30q's, vtc's(5,5a,6) are the current go-tos. you may notice a MaH in the 2000-3500 range and that number determines how much juice they hold, higher numbers mean they last longer.

Make sure to read up on battery safety and you should be good to go. Stay safe and good luck with quiting, it helped me stop smoking as well.

Okay then, seems I've started a shitstorm. I'll pick up a charger ASAP, but it's going to at least be a couple of days. If it bricks like you're all saying it will, I'll be sure to post something. Thanks everybody.

https://www.amazon.com/Version-NITECORE-i4-Intellicharge-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/

Hope that's sufficient, because I can't really afford much more.

So pretty much what you're going to have to keep spending money on is the coils, and juices. Like /u/sfw123 said, you can do some maintenance and get some more longevity on them but depending on your juices they can wear out faster. But as you can see they're not all that expensive. Buying a set of those over weeks is still cheaper than a pack of cigarettes every few days.

On top of that , get some good batteries and a charger such as this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UAI372/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

You are spending a lot of money at once, but depending on how deep you get into vaping...you may end up saving money. But the most important thing here is that you're improving your lifestyle. It's money going towards a healthier life

I would not recommend the Emisar D4 as a starter light. Extremely powerful, and that comes with big responsibilities.

But you seem responsible enough to have that kind of light.

1. Doesn't come with a charger or a cell.
   
   Best cell for all around best performance and capacity is the 30Q. Will work on all flashlights, great with the D4 and has high capacity:
   
   https://liionwholesale.com/collections/batteries/products/samsung-inr18650-30q-battery-15a-3000mah-button-top-wholesale-discount-genuine-and-tested?variant=35782220241
   
   Charger:
   https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Zanflare-C4-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B07428G1G2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527732046&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=zanflare+c4
   
   A bit overkill, but will charge all types of cells, all the way from lithium ion to NiMH rechargeable AAs. Can also test capacity to check if genuine.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBFZDI8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

This is the charger I ordered, and it works great. I charge my batteries in series depending on color and the days in which I use them. Would recomend this charger for you.

As for batteries, there are a number of different batteries for your device. I use a Segeli 100w and a Segeli 150w and use the same batteries

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-INR18650-25R-Rechargeable-Batteries-2500mAh/dp/B00NUI4370/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1451693052&sr=1-1&keywords=6+18650

Here are the batteries I ordered recently, this rest of my batteries were from local B&M stores, as well as small dealers.

Good luck to you, and should you want a decent website for premium juice, PM me and I will share.

Not exactly true. If you want to save a bit, it's good to get them bundled with a charger. Specifically the BQ-CC17 that comes with this bundle: http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MZ104A-Eneloop-Colored-Advanced/dp/B00N05RL22/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1450903674&sr=8-7&keywords=eneloop

It's a decent inexpensive charger that uses a reliable smart charge shutoff method and has a separate charging circuit for each slot (as opposed to really cheap chargers that usually have paired circuits, so it quits charging as soon as one of the two batteries hits full)

You won't mess up the batteries with "another companies charger" unless it's a really shitty charger, considering pretty much every great charger out there is by a third party.

I've heard good things about Amazon as well. The biggest complaint I have with EBL is that they get beat up super quickly - the foil label/cover started to tear of mine after only a couple uses. So far I have noticed any jarring issues with performance.

I'd recommend getting something like this charger that can test capacity - I didn't find much difference between EBL / Eneloop out of the package. I imagine that higher end batteries will hold up better over time in terms maintaining capacity and low self discharge, but I haven't come up with any empirical data to support that yet haha.

La Crosse Technology BC700-CBP Alpha Power Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0ViXBb72GYW44

This is the one I use and it works pretty well and comes with a power supply and pretty much all the connectors you'll ever need and room to wire up others if it doesn't.

You can also find some great deals on Hobby King.
A lot of people use the Imax B6 but it doesn't come with a power supply (if you have an old laptop one that usually works)

The Accucell S60 is exceptionally good value but only comes with an XT60 connector (you can get other connectors or wire up your own). This one can only charge up to 4S LiPos but that's probably more than enough for Airsoft.

Check out this review. It's not the worst in the world, but if you're buying the best batteries, you might also consider buying the best charger, which is either this one or this one.

Just a word of caution- I bought a keepower 14500 and got it stuck in my SC52W. There is a ton of variance when it comes to 14500 dimensions (even within brand/model). I had read reports of people using the keepower 14500, so I didn't give it a second thought. I pushed it in (like a dummy) and it pretty much jammed/vacuum locked in. I had to epoxy a nail to the end of the battery and pull it out like that. The amount of force tore the protection circuit from the end of the battery. Woof.

Anyway, Zebralight makes a 14500 with 840mah. That's the top capacity for a 14500 (a Sanyo cell). I would just get that! If you want to go cheaper, I know the trustfire 14500 cells fit.

And for a charger- do you have any other LiOn cells or lights that will take them? This charger is a good one and will charge pretty much every battery you have.

You can power the Fireboard from any of those external 5 volt USB power packs. You can also use a 12 volt external battery pack plugged into the Drive cable to help power the fan and the Fireboard.

Whenever I use my Fireboard and Drive cable and fan I also plug in an external battery to the Fireboard itself just in case the fan ends up needing more “juice”.

I have been happy with some of the Anker brand battery packs. I have a few in various capacities. Here’s a link to one of them: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194WDVHI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an external 12 volt pack that I use for a variety of things that can be plugged into the Drive cable adapter itself - one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MF70BPU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Either approach will work. From what I’ve read you really only need the 12 volt power supply if using a bigger, higher cubic feet per minute fan that what Fireboard sells.

Thank you for all that! That was a useful YouTube video, too.

I had to make the purchases yesterday, since I'll be playing with actors in the studio on Monday. That said, I still have time to buy some things.

It's a comfort that I seem to be on the right track. The biggest difference between what I bought and your suggestions is that you suggested I buy the Dock-Kings and other pricier receiver/converting gear. I'd appreciate if you could look at my list of purchased items to determine if you think it will work, or if you see some some red flags.

I suppose in the long run, if this theatre show concept shows promise, we would then invest in more reliable gear, such as no-compression wireless HDMI tx/rx. For now, here it is:

​

4 cameras:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5D8SPZ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y56RL5P/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0184DVN4G/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (2S or 3S LiPo)

​

3 receivers (should I buy different antennae?):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774SMGQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H36AIGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3 AC/DC adapters for the receivers:

3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISM267G/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3S LiPo (for 3S LiPo camera and try battery-powered Receiver)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GF63645/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Battery chargers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466PKE0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD

​

Each receiver has an AV output + AV RCA cable. I'll plug in the RCAs from 2 or 3 receivers into this Switcher:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Using an RCA cable, connect the Switcher's Output to this RCA to HDMI converter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KTDG177/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Then HDMI to projector.

​

Ta-da?

Get the extra battery (each one can get me through around 1.5 bowls), WPA piece (water pipe attachment that works better than the normal front end - less draw resistance) and an external charger. I recommend the nitecore D2 - the one I bought can be found here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LCHICAU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Enjoy your Hopper! Thing is amazing.

Exactly what col0ringbook said and you should be ready to rock. I don't know about a charging "dock" for the batteries but you could find a nice charger on amazon. Something like this or something from xtar would serve your nicely https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504631083&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore+charger+d2

CV will drop the current to keep the voltage at your set point (4.2V). CC is also known as "bulk charging". The CV phase is essentially topping it off. It's usually about the last 20% or so of the capacity.

So basically, you need a dedicated CC/CV charger (like a hobby charger or an 18650 charger), or a variable bench power supply -- very handy to have around. Or a good stable power source, a large variety of resistors, a good, solid handle on Ohm's Law, and a lot of time on your hands. I personally like a charger like the Nitecore i4 for my LiIon batteries.

Best 14500 IMRs are Windyfire. Crappy name, great 14500 battery. Efest and AW also good for 14500 sizes.

Note that there are many different versions of each, even by the same manufacturer.

Good 18650s are different from good 14500s.

Nitecore D4

Will also charge Ni-MH, Ni-CD, and LiFePO4

This massdrop isn't really a big savings. Especially adding the shipping cost. At least if you already have amazon prime. Total at mass would be $13 ish @ i2, and $18.49 @ i4, while amazon the i2 is higher priced, being the only deal by way of $2 at massdrop, and the i4 is cheaper by .05 on amazon.

(Amazon prime is a worthwhile awesome service and at such a low cost, i recommend it highly, plus there is a free trial to check it out in case you don't have it.)

The suggestions here are great and OP has probably picked one, but I wanted to share an alternative for anyone else that may be looking. I really enjoy my $15 Xtar PB2 paired with two 2500mah 18650 batteries. You can get the batteries for just under $4 each. This way you get lots of capacity and you can swap out batteries and it still costs less than the typical powerbank of that capacity. Also some devices use the batteries directly like this flashlight.

Ordinarily you would use a charger configured for the same voltage as your series-connected cells. It's also better practice to use larger cells instead of a series-parallel connection. It's a lot easier, actually, to use a battery already configured for your purposes.

If I were doing what you're trying to do, I'd go with a total 12-volt system. This amplifier contains the bluetooth receiver so all that would be taken care of almost automatically. It is also rated close to the Sure amplifier you were looking at. You could still use the Sure amplifier, though it would have somewhat less power on 12 volts.

Here is a battery/charger combination that will provide a bit more capacity than you would get with your design.

If you want to charge the battery and use the amplifier at the same time, you would need to make up a special cable for the charger with a current-limiting resistor to avoid damaging the charger.

Hope this helps.

I purchased my batteries from this product page exactly.

I have yet to try charging the Samsung batteries in my vape but that's a great idea! Troubleshooting is always about eliminating variables. I'll let you know how it goes!

Thanks for your time and consideration.

thats a kit with crap batteries and a crap clearo.

This one is a little better (I recommend 18650 battery if you're an all day vaper), however just get everything separate. You will spend a LITTLE more money, but its better equipment and you'll be much happier.

What I suggest:

Vamo V5

Charger

VTC 4 Battery

V2 Aerotank
I seriously cannot recomment this tank enough!

You'll be much happier with this setup that isn't chinese garbage

Maybe try a different browser or a different profile on your computer. but here are the links...



Recommended Beginner Setup

• Top Airflow Saionara Includes the Titanium Bucket
  
• Espion 200W Box Mod Small 2 Battery Mod (Links to FastTech China Distributor, for faster shipping find a US Retailer)
  
• Pair of Sony VTC5A 18650 Batteries
  
• 18650 Battery Charger
  
  >Optional
  
  
• Pair of Extra Batteries
  
• Poseidon V2 Bubbler for Saionara Bucket
  
• Puffco Prism XL For Concentrate Storage and Easy Loading
  
• Bamboo QTips Stronger than normal paper Q Tips
  
• Glass Mouthpiece Highly recommended!
  
• Spare coil (If you get more than one get them without the bucket, one spare is excessive, but worth having around for only $3 extra. )
  
• Sai Molecule Coil
  
  It is smart to have a spare set of batteries just in case. Simply swap out the sets, so you always have a fully charged mod with zero fuss.
  
  Use two different types of batteries that are different colors to ensure they stay properly married (Always keep your batteries as a pair don't mix), you could also order 4+ of the same type and just label them with permanent marker.
  
  

  Arctic Fox and Sai Setup Guide >

U/mayday is correct. ir is inaccurate in most chargers. For an example i use ir as a baseline for my laptop pulls. If 5 of the 6 cells are around 60, and one is 150, I will recycle the highest one. If you Keep an eye on the ir as the cell ages, you will know when its nearing end of useful life. Again the number it shows is inaccurate but it works Well for me, especially at under 30$.

Liitokala lii-500 is a charger that handles from aaa-26650(will fit unprotected 21700 too) and gives you an idea of ir, as well as capacity of the cell. I've been very happy with mine. . you can get it cheaper off bg or GB or ae though.


https://www.amazon.com/LiitoKala-Lii-500-Battery-charger-capacity/dp/B073R7VCMZ/ref=asc_df_B073R7VCMZ?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2161717967668315578&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9058771&hvtargid=aud-801738734305:pla-570008462571&psc=1

This /r/ warned me about the dangers of ... getting more stuffs. I'm really enjoying the Subox Mini. It's works just great for me and is a much more satisfying experience than the 1st gen cartomizer based ecigs I used and gave up on years ago.

My beginner problem was that I ordered a sampler pack. Well, I'm on day 4 and I'm only now just about to finish my first tank. So in theory, just to try all the other flavors (5 more) would take me 20 days.

Ended up ordering two more tanks so I could get some variety. A 1 x Subtank Mini and 1 x Subtank Nano. I figure this way I could use the two minis for my staple flavors and my Nano can be my test tank for future flavors since the capacity is smaller.

And if I stopped there, I'd be a reasonable man. But no. Then it's like, well - would be nice to have a pouch for transporting stuff and maybe I'll buy into the whole use an external charger thing... and while I'm at it I guess I will pick up a spare battery... oh on sale 2 for X price? ... then I guess I should be safe and get some battery cases... etc. etc.

What have you done to me?

For anyone still using a Wii or Xbox, get some good Rechargeable AAs. Ikea makes some called LADDA, which are really good and pretty cheap. Don't use a cheapo charger though. I have the Opus BT-C3100 which is fantastic, but there are also cheaper ones that are good.

OP Wrote:
>What is the easiest way to drive a strip of LEDs

You suggest:
>Arduino. Or ESP8266.

This is BY FAR not the easiest way to drive addressable LEDs. There are many, many off-the-shelf LED controllers that are extremely cheap, extremely simple to set up and operate, and provide numerous standard animated patterns - nothing too exciting, but very very easy.

And if /u/hoti0101 were capable enough of getting Arduino or ESP8266 to work then they likely wouldn't be asking this question here.

OP, here's the easiest way:

https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-WS2812B-DC5-12V-Wireless-Controller/dp/B01DC0JKGY

To power it:

https://www.amazon.com/Talentcell-Rechargeable-6000mAh-Battery-Portable/dp/B00MF70BPU

Just make sure you use 12v strips with that setup, the battery pack puts out 12v.

I can't tell who's serious and who's joking.

If serious, in addition to what you said, I'm the sort of guy who always has a stash of rechargeable AA batteries. Powers my scanners. Also, a good AM radio that runs on AAs.

I like this charger

And these AA batteries

I'm in 2 land, so power outages are more of an issue here. Like, with Hurricane Sandy.

Yes :) here they are:

Handle: link

Mounting plate: link

Manfrotto Quick Release Plate : link

Follow focus: link

Rods(16" & 6") link

Handlegrip: link

Lens support: link

Shoulder pad: link

Rod clamp: link

Cold Shoe mount: link

To hold the battery I used this rod clamp: link and this plate: link

Battery: link

To connect the battery to the BMPCC 4k I used these cables and the charging cable from the camera to make an adapter: link to cables

Magic arm to hold the monitor: link

Samsung SSD 500gb: link

SSD holder: link

Monitor: link

HDMI cable: link

BMPCC 4k cage: link

I'm using the Sigma 18-35mm (Nikon) and the Viltrox 0.71X Lens Mount Adapter: link

I think that's it :)

More info such as battery type, size, or connector would be helpful.

I've got one of these and it works great.

Combo Special: Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Battery Packs + Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zxaozbHDJ31TQ

If you only have one type of battery or much smaller batteries, there are definitely cheaper options.

I use Eneloops. I have both the old Sanyo and the new Panasonic onea and both seem to perform identically. As for a charger, I can't recommend the La Crosse BC-700 enough. I used to use the cheap wall bricks (like the Amazon Basics one) but they tended to stop charging after a year or two. Also, they don't intelligently charge so they could be reducing the life of your batteries (see the "edit" below.) The La Crosse has stayed with me for 3 years and it has so many options that help improve the life of each battery. Most cheap chargers ate around $10-15 USD and the La Crosse is typically on sale for $35 USD. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Vq8Xzb7J1J3G8

Edit: One of the big advantages of this charger is that it reads each individual battery and only charges it as long as it needs. Most "dumb" chargers (especially ones that charge in pairs) uses a set time charge and can reduce the life of your batteries.

Edit 2: there is some evidence that the Amazon Basics rechargeable batteries are rebranded Eneloops. So for those who want to save a couple of bucks, you could get those instead of Eneloops and you'll have comparable, if not identical, batteries.

Fair enough! I've been using the german version of this thing for a few years now, and while it might be slightly more expensive than the apple thing, it has a shit ton of useful functions and is very reliable. Also look up some eneloop reviews, they basically behave like disposable batteries, i.e. all the advantages thereof, and mine have all been working great since 2011 when I bought them. Worth every penny!

Just make sure you get a good set of batteries for it, maybe 2 aw imr 18350s and 2 aw imr 18650s then get a good charger for them,I recommend the nightcore intelicharger to get all 4 charged at once and safely

Fair enough, so long as you know the actual continuous amp limit of your batteries. The best current ones are samsung 25r with a 20 amp continuous rating. A good charger that won't burn your house down is a nitecore intellicharger i2. As for the gear you picked out from fasttech, you're going to be waiting a long ass time to get it, since they've got slow shipping from china. The devices themselves are kind of sub par so you'd be better off with a stingray x and an RDA of your choosing. My personal suggestion for RDA would be mephisto or lancia. This is just coming from someone who has had a lot of experience with this hardware and others, it's better gear for the long run.

I have been using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RSOV50/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 since 2013 with eneloop and now these Amazons. I recently bought a cheaper charger that is compatible with a lot more batteries the Nitecore D4. Also fine would be Nitecore I4, D4, D2. Any would get the job done in great form. I found Amazon a bit expensive so I bought from http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers.html?___store=default&brand=211 based on many great reviews by http://budgetlightforum.com/

Nitecore is recommended alot on this sub. I haven't used them myself but they seem to be very good and for a reasonable price. They have the 4 slot and the 2 slot available.

edit- Also 10 dollars is about what a good battery(sony vtc4) will cost you. You could probably find them a tiny bit cheaper but 10 dollars isn't bad.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M6JTILK/ the nitecore i4 $18

http://www.amazon.com/NiteCore-D4-CAR-Adapter-BBOX-T-Nitecore-Integrated/dp/B00LZONPF2 the nitecore d4 $32

both are eligible for free shipping if you spend $35 or more on qualifying purchases from amazon

i have the D4 and love it, wish i had gotten a car charger for it though

Okay, assuming those are real (I have my doubts when it comes to FastTech), those are 10A max draw batteries. Not really a big deal if you don't plan to sub-ohm, but these Samsung 25Rs are honestly a better buy and will carry you safely all the way down to ~0.275 ohms should you ever decide to build a low resistance dripper.

As /u/sadosmurf said, the Nitecore charger can be found on Amazon for a bit cheaper. Actually, you could get the Nitecore i4 for just a little bit more than what you're paying for the i2 on FT.

I have been using the La Crosse BC-700 Alpha Power Battery Charger for several years now with great success. The reviews are mixed, and many folks recommend the pricier BC-9009 in its stead, but I have been 100% happy with the BC-700, and it is extremely affordable.

However in a device like the Istick 100 those batteries should be perfectly fine. If you were using something like a mech mod or box I would say NOPE but the istick is fine. I would still get an external charger as the usb ports on mods are not the greatest things (they work but still). Also if you have amazon prime you can get a pair of LG batteries and a charger on the cheap (http://www.amazon.com/LG-18650-2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00S9Y2KTI/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1458335926&sr=8-10&keywords=lg+batteries) and (http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ/ref=pd_bxgy_23_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1CRGW5A9KKP5RNXH8736 I personally use the D2 version but for 5 bucks its up to you). But honestly I wouldn't sweat it till next paycheck.

/u/maxvapor710 has the drag on his site for a very competitive rate, and sells (18650) batteries as well. You can charge on the mod but it's nice to have extras you can just swap out, and for that an external charger is the way to go, and probably a bit safer as well. This is the one I have though I only paid $32 for it one year ago.

I wouldn't consider that a beginner device, you could consider getting the Katana kit from Vape Dojo, or an eGo kit from Discount Vapers or Steam Monkey while you're learning the ropes. I'll try to provide an explanation, regardless.

What you will need for your mod are batteries, a multimeter to check them, and a topper / clearomizer.

Batteries: MNKE, or Panasonic. You can get smaller/shorter ones as well, I just prefer the big ones so you can go longer without a recharge.

You don't want to store these at full charge for too long, probably not longer than a week at most, and you won't want to drain them. A drop of about 1 volt is probably the max. This may vary, some people drain them a lot lower but I believe it's safest not to do so.

Charger: Here is what I use. I hear Pila also makes good chargers, maybe shop around.

Clearomizer: Kanger Evod or Protank II are both good. The Protank II is glass and can be fully disassembled, the Evod is plastic and has just two or three pieces. You can pick up replacement heads at Discount Vapers or just about any e-cig vendor.

Let me know if you have any questions, there's a lot to take in.

I am new to fish finders, but I have the garmin in my kayak and like it so far. This is how I mounted it, and links to the power pack and accessories I used. There are larger power banks but the 6000mah, was perfect for my needs.

https://imgur.com/a/TeAAv5y

Battery

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MF70BPU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuse (I cut the original one off and soldered in the blade sytle)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK4RNB3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable gland set I used for the pelican box

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077R1RT2T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5.5mm plugs to soldered to the garmin cable to plug directly into the battery pack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPL8MVG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pelican Case

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LZ5HDI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd go with the d2 personally. The i2 is fine, but for a couple bucks more, the digital screen is very nice. The i2 just has a few bars to display charge percentage.

If you get the d2, use this link from Amazon instead...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KW2ZDJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1426760654&sr=8-3&keywords=Nitecore+d2&dpPl=1&dpID=41u88etBdKL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Make sure you pick the one sold from direct from Amazon. It's only 19 cents more, and you 100% know it's authentic.

/u/spacetimmy \^ this charger is your most basic intro, I bought the more generic Tenergy combo (XT60 plug needed) and it has suited me till now (9 months). I upgraded to the ISDT Q6 plus w/ parallel board & PSU and DAMN i was missing out. So much happier now. but take /u/pkvillager 's advice if you want to upgrade later, my buddy sports the iCharger w/ a server psu and it's a BEAST.

I also rock the Turnigy graphenes 4S 65C and they have been GREAT! I know budgets hurt, but i tend to buy my lipos in two's. In the event one flakes out.

not sure if in the US, buuuut WAIT FOR MEMORIAL DAY SALES!!!!!! I have patience, and tend to wait around for sales, next ones will be memorial day. Shop around and determine the best place to get the most things.

I picked up an Intillicharger about 3 yrs ago after some looking around, still working fine...can't remember how much I paid for it but was on a budget and was pleasantly surprised how affordable it was.

This was the one.... Price here Under 20 bucks :)

I'd recommend
https://www.amazon.com/Talentcell-Rechargeable-6000mAh-Battery-Portable/dp/B00MF70BPU
if you can't afford a more expensive battery atm.

You need to make sure whatever battery you use has a 2 amp output or greater.

This particular battery is 12V/2A and should power your rig all day.

It's also suppose to have a good safety circuit (per Deity Sound which tweeted about using this battery for camera stuff)
(https://twitter.com/deitymicrophone/status/1116920789360500736?s=19)

Dude, $100 is a lot if you go for clones. Except for those with 'authentics', all of our rigs are well under $100.

Here is what I setup for my brother:

4nine - $21.51

Kayfun Lite Plus V2 - $30.02

Nitecore i2 Charger - $11.79

18350 Purple Efest Battery - $4.24 each w/ 'ISPower' Coupon

28g Kanthal - $5.45

Bag of Cotton Balls - $3

_____

Total: $66.01

...and that's a REALLY nice setup. You could get away with half that and still have a great setup.

I use eneloop batteries too. The 2100 ones. I noticed that when I plug in a headset to directly to the controller it definitely uses the battery faster. I have about 12 AA's in rotation to maximize battery life. I coupled them with La Crosse Technology BC1000 Alpha Power Battery Charger and it's pretty awesome. I can set how fast I want them to charge, or even discharge them fully and recharge to prevent "memory" issues.

https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-BC1000-Battery-Charger/dp/B004J6DLD4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502476791&sr=1-2&keywords=la+crosse+battery+charger

I love my rechargeable AA batteries. I haven't done the extensive testing OP has on life, but I generally swap out batteries once a month or so it feels like, probably 15-20 hours of playtime. This is using the generic Amazon rechargeables.

For anyone using rechargeables, or thinking about it, a critical part is a good charger. I highly recommend La Crosse chargers. They know when your batteries are full and stop putting a full charge into them, which is why batteries start to die (at least in my layman's understanding). The below charger is the one I use, and has served me great for ~4 years; batteries that I got 4 years ago that could hold 2100 mAh still hold about 1900 mAh.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RSOV50/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_bAz4IxX_g23_i9?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=0Y0S02PTT2NKTK4BX89P&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=766ea26f-ee7e-5847-8308-2ed606857887&pf_rd_i=10063711011

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Can be had for <$16


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Germany|www.amazon.de||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||
|China|www.amazon.cn||




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

Discontinued? I'm not sure what is giving you that impression.

Don't go with the Panasonic charger. Well, you can. It's not like they're bad or anything. Something like this charger is going to be a nice upgrade. Each battery is individually charged like on the Panasonic. It also has a couple quick charging options.

Sweet, thanks for your help! I actually broke my first starter kit because I pushed the pin too far. I'll take up on your advice and by a nylon washer or something similar.

Two last question, I hear people don't use the built in charger for the batteries. I'm guessing people use something like? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBFZDI8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Second, did you have to clean your Griffin when you first got it? I remember my first tank had some machine oil but I didn't know how to clean it properly. Is baking soda and vinegar enough?

I went with this one , was recommended by my friend at work. And I am digging the free Prime 2 Day shipping haha.

That price range is about right. I'd say it'll be on the lower side of that if you do some shopping around. Plus it depends on what you already have.

You'll need an 18650 mechanical mod like this one:

http://www.angelcigs.com/fuhattan-style-18650-mechanical-mod.html (~$20)

A RDA if you want to blow clouds. I really like the tobh atty as a beginner RDA, but do your research for your purpose as something better may be out there: http://www.vividsmoke.com/ehpro-tobh-v2-rda-clone.html (~$20)

2 18650 batteries at least 20amps (they take a while to charge and after one is charged you should let it settle for a day or so, so 2 or more is best): http://www.amazon.com/Efest-Purple-2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00P8BXE3G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419698688&sr=8-3&keywords=efest+18650 (~$20)

BECOME FAMILIAR WITH STEAM-ENGINE.ORG. Basically, don't build a coil with a resistance so low that a higher amperage is demanded of the battery than it is rated to deliver. This is the basis for all the safety issues you hear about. That and shorts, both of which can be found and fixed with an...

Ohm Meter: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291199272849?lpid=82 (~$8)

Battery Charger: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419698805&sr=8-2&keywords=18650+nitecore+charger (~$15)

Kanthal: http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/products/Resistance_Wire/RW0118.html (~$8)

Organic Cotton: http://www.cvs.com/shop/baby-child/bath-skin-care/cotton-swabs/cvs-100-cotton-triple-size-organic-cotton-balls-skuid-405326 (~$3)



So in total that's ~ $95.

You'll also need a wire cutter, precision screwdriver set, drill bits etc, but those are household items or easily come by at harbor freight or lowes or something for cheap.

I just ordered the RX200S from ft for about $43 USD, ordered 3 25r's from illumn.com for $5 a pop and ordered this charger from amazon.

Edit: This was meant for a different thread but it looks like it applies here as well, haha.

Charger: 2016 version Nitecore New i2 Intellicharge Universal Smart Battery Charger for 18650 AAA AA Li-Ion/NiMH US Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HOP6ADE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d2duzb7N34Z31


Battery:2PCS Panasonic 18650 NCR18650B Rechargeable Li-ion Battery, Flat Top 3.7V 3400mAh, BONUS One Hard Plastic Case For Easier Storage and Transport https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C4GFVN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L2duzbYS0EVB8

Go with these and this. I'm sure there are better deals to be found, I just went for the easy links.

EDIT: Sorry, that first link should have been to just the batteries not the pack with the charger. Point is Eneloops and a good charger.

Well I don't know what it is and I'm not a fan of in-cell charging. Here's a charger that's good and popular: https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO/ref=sr_1_3

What I do for all my lights is buy 2 batteries and keep a charged spare. When one runs out I swap in the charged spare and recharge the other and put it away into its box.

Good luck!

If you want to stick with stock motors, imr cells will work fine. But those are icr, not imr. most use aw or efest cells. the nitecore I series chargers are what alot of people recommend, though i prefer the luc series. Both are good.
If you decide to go with rhino motors, a pack is going to be the way you want to go. 14500 cells just don't have the amperage to handle them properly or safely.

Yes, it will be fine to charge them one at a time. Make sure they are both 100% fully charged before use. The Cuboid will display each batteries power level at the bottom of the screen.

If you need a dual bay charger, pick up a Nitecore i2 for around $14 on amazon.

ALSO! The Cuboid can charge batteries via the USB port. Joyetech and users don't recommend it. As the battery's can get warm while charging and that mod doesn't particularly have the best battery venting.

> Istick tc100w

Heres the thing. By design USB charging should be fine. But a lot of these manufacturers dont think the situuation all the way through. USB charging is fine iun a pinch but standalone chargers have too many pros for me. My LUC v4 chargers faster, has a more accurate reading, and can charge faster than a mods built in.

Sure you can use USB charging. But there are a lot of instances of them exploding and I havent seen a battery charger explode. Just stop functioning. So you can if you want. There are plenty of people who use USB just fine and dont die. Maybe the TC100 has better USB. But if you decide to get a second set of batteries you'll want that 4 bay charger.

TL;DR You can if you want. But we dont recommend it.

I wouldn't order that from fasttech, you can get better quality stuff from us suppliers for a little more and have it in a week. hcigar nemesis is $30 from 101 vape when in stock or $40 elsewhere and better than the fasttech one. That fasttech patriot is 20mm I believe, you can get a nicer tobeco 22mm patriot on ebay for $17 shipped or so (I just got two, 101vape also has them). Get sony VTC4 batteries- sun vapers has them in stock for $10 right now. you can get a nitecore i2 with amazon prime for the same price as fasttech.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Patriot-Clone-Rebuildable-Dripping-Atomizer-Tobeco-RBA-RDA-Stainless-/171251225859?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27df5e5503

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nemesis-2-Tone-Clone-HCigar-Atmomixani-Mechanical-Mod-Vape-Vapor-/181336359158?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a387d40f6

http://www.sun-vapers.com/buy/sony-18650-vtc4/

http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ

or an i4: http://www.amazon.com/NITECORE-Intellicharge-universal-EdisonBright-converters/dp/B00GODG3X0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393724004&sr=8-2&keywords=nitecore+i4

Yeah, these Eneloop batteries are NiMH and are good for 1500 recharges. Best damn money ever spent on batteries. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Eneloop-batteries-Charger-BK-3MCC/dp/B00N05RL22/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1419386673&sr=8-8&keywords=eneloop+AAA

The newest version (link above) lets you go through 2100 recharges! :D

I think that review is mistaken. I just double checked with mine, and if you YouTube 'Mikevapes IPV5' he will confirm not USB chargeable. As far as charger I love my Nitecore I4, but there are a couple of great ones out there. Im just having a straight up brain fart on them (on little sleep this week).

http://www.amazon.com/Version-NITECORE-i4-Intellicharge-Charger/dp/B005UAI372

This is a really solid and pretty affordable option. 4 ports is all you should need, and in the case of you getting a VTC mini, I'd recommend getting one just to cover your bases and make sure you never run out of batteries, and to prepare in the (likely) case you get another mod or two (or fucking five, in my case).

If you don't wanna shell out for the 4-port, here's the same thing just with two ports.

And in case you were worried, chargers are fine to buy from Amazon. Batteries, however, are not, and should be bought from sites made specifically for that purpose (e.g. www.illumn.com)

http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Charger-Generation/dp/B005UAI372 - $22.50 for the i4. That's in the realm of the reasonable.

I'm a fan of the Panasonic CGR18650CH 2250mAh battery, but I don't know batteries from a hole in my head. Those ones work well for me. $8ea is a pretty good price. I've seen them as low as $6, but that's highly rare. Amazon's where I usually get them - YMMV.

Ouch, that totally blows. Yeah, like the others have suggested, the Sanyo Eneloops seem to be the best for flashes. The recycle time is extremely fast (from what I've noticed even when it's been popped a few hundred times). I've had my set of 4 for a few years now... didn't use it as much so I assumed it still held it's charge and still actually does!

Pick some up and grab a Nitecore Intellicharger battery charger for your rechargeable batteries.

It should be ok but will charge slow. It doesn't say if it has auto off or not I would imagine it does? For the same money - or less if you're on amazon - I would pick up the Nitecore i2 though. It's known to be good if you can look past the over zealous promoters. ;-)

4 battery pack + battery charger https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Rechargeable-Auto-Safety-Over-charge-Protection/dp/B00IM3P8GS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2SXTYRG36F5U9&keywords=rechargeable+aa+batteries&qid=1567265383&s=gateway&sprefix=rech%2Caps%2C279&sr=8-4 13 bucks

Ps4 controller https://www.amazon.com/DualShock-Wireless-Controller-PlayStation-Magma-4/dp/B01MD19OI2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3M2388Q4EG7EN&keywords=ps4%2Bcontroller&qid=1567265472&s=gateway&sprefix=ps4%2Bcontero%2Caps%2C277&sr=8-3&th=1 44 bucks

The Elite controller was a huge flop and it is strongly outdated, I'm pretty sure it doesn't even have Bluetooth, and also you can simply buy the standard controller if you don't like it or buy one of the third party ones.

I've owned a Vamo for almost the entire time I've been vaping, and I love it. Simple to use, gets what I want outta my juices, lotsa options, well-built, and cheap (you can get the SS V2 here for $33.14 (+ tax) shipped, but it does take about a week and a half to get to your door).

I love my efests, AWs, and Sanyos, and charge them all with a Nitecore i4 2nd gen. This setup has done me right for a long while now.

I'm glad to hear that you were able to switch it out.

I do recommend you pick up an extra battery, and an external battery charger. Its much safer that way. I never trust any mod to charge my batteries

Here is a good cheapish external charger you could pick up
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452976936&sr=8-4&keywords=18650+charger

I wouldn't pay much more than 30 bucks for a Nemesis clone. Plenty of places online to get one for that. I got an HCigar from thriftyecig.com. Shipping was fast and added one dollar to the price.

Sony VTC5's are 10 bucks at illuminationsupply.

Intellicore i4 charger is $15.40 thru Amazon.

If you want to support your local B&M, go for it. Or, support them by buying $50 worth of juice from them with the money you saved.

Do NOT buy these batteries for use in a mechanical mod. They have extremely low amp limit, high interal impedance, and unsafe battery chemistry. They're also expensive for what they are. Please do not buy these. Instead, pick up these: Charger, Batteries. You will be much safer and satisfied for the same cost! Feel free to PM with any questions.

I'm a novice but based on all the info I've gathered the nitecore D2 digicharger is the most popular. Hope this helps. http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422638306&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecored2&pebp=1422638303927&peasin=B00KW2ZDJO

Before you read on, please please please do your research before buying and building.

Choose one that you like.
I would suggest Stingray X and Paragon.
Two or more of this.
And this or the i4 depending on how many batteries you get.
This or equivalent where you find it in stock.
Also of course your kanthal and cotton which are easily found on amazon.

I have a Nitecore I2 and a LaCrosse BC-700. Both work great. The LaCrosse is nice for extending the life of your AA rechargeables. It can even 'revive' older batteries and increase their capacity by doing a few charge/discharge cycles. You can also choose the charge rate (lower/longer) to supposedly make the batteries last longer (more cycles). I used to have an Energizer 15 min quick charger and it ruined several of my AA rechargeables.

I recently threw out what is likely the same charger you are referring to.
I replaced it with this. (Nitecore 4 slot charger) and it's one of the best cheap items I have ever purchased. The slide action on the adjustable slots is excellent and it's fast !

I would recommend this. I have been using it since 2012 and the batteries still work fine. If I charge overnight while i'm not playing I have rarely run out while playing. I play way too much xbox so the normal person should be fine as well. http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Recharge-Rechargeable-Batteries-included/dp/B00IM3P8GS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1465140482&sr=8-5&keywords=energizer+aa+rechargeable

It did not, but I use the LiitoKala Lii-500 which is only about $26 on Amazon with free shipping if you have Prime. It's a great charger and recommended by many people. I've had no problems with it so far nor do I have any design complaints with it either, so I'd definitely recommend it.

Yeah man, this one.

Don't skimp out and buy a knock off either, get this exact one. $30 is not that much considering how many times you're going to use it. Also, because of the fantastic "refresh" cycle; you'll get much more life out of your batteries.

Anecdote: I had 6 old AA rechargeable batteries that I was going to throw away, because they just couldn't hold a charge anymore. These things were older than most cars on the road today. Using this charger I was able to keep 4 of them. Imagine how long they would have lasted if I had bought something like this the day I bought those batteries!!! They'd probably NEVER die!

You can use whatever you want. Only consideration you need to make other than price is making sure the battery fits in the tray.

• Battery: get a 2S lipo, make sure the dimensions fit the tray, and also make sure the cables come out somewhat on top of the battery and not the sides (I've got 3 batteries that I've bought for my TT02D because the first one didn't quite fit and the second one has the leads coming out on the edge of the battery which rubs against the tub). This is the battery I just got for mine. Note where the cables come out if you decide to buy a different one.
  
• Charger: depending on the battery capacity, you'll want something that can charge at "1C" (to keep it simple, a 5000mAh would be charged at 5000mA aka 5.0A). Again, here's the one I use.
  
• Transmitter/receiver: I like my Spektrum DX2E, but you can get any setup. The transmitter and receiver need to be compatible with each other. Any receiver should be able to fit in the car though, so just buy what's in your budget with the features you want.
  
  I don't know what the "2-channel with high speed steering servo." comment is for but if you need a servo then I can also make a recommendation for that: PowerHD, roughly a speed of 0.10sec @ 7.4V

1. Dillon Francis' latest album Money Sucks, Friends Rule especially the track with Sultan & Ned Shepard, When We Were Young
   
   
2. Ballast Point's Sculpin, especially the varietals: habanero, grapefruit, or passion fruit. For the festival kick, Stone's Smoked Porter with Vanilla Bean.
   
   
3. Downpayment for that $10,000 Sandcruiser. You're almost there...
   But more seriously, get this battery charger: http://amzn.com/B000RSOV50 and pair it with some Sanyo Eneloops. Wait for it to go on sale for $30ish. It'll revive your old rechargable batteries, charge your current ones, etc. Magic machine
   
   And as always, anything on Amazon can be price tracked with www.camelcamelcamel.com

I've heard repeatedly that made-in-Japan "white top" low self-discharge NiMH batteries with other brands like Duracell are rebranded Eneloops. (Versus the "black top" made-in-China ones.) Worth a look if you see any on sale.

Also a charger like the La Crosse BC-700 is a worthwhile investment if you're going to use rechargeable batteries a lot.
http://www.amazon.com/La-Crosse-Technology-Battery-Charger/dp/B000RSOV50

Honestly, this is the best deal you're going to find as long as you only need to charge two batteries at once. Spend the $16 now and never have to worry about it again.

If you need them to run at night, you need to spec a battery that will last at least 10 hours, so you'll need to be able to charge that battery and run your camera during the day. A quick google looks like you'll need 1A at 12v. Thus you should need about a 12amp hour battery (Amazon sells 6amphr batteries for exactly this, so I could be over-engineering everything again) You'll need to be able to really charge it in about 8 hours, so you'll need a solar panel that can put out 2 amps at 12v, give or take. Thats 24 watts, which should run you about 70$. You'll probably also want a charge controller so you don't fuck up the battery; most of those 13000mah batteries are USB which run at 5v instead of 12, so you might need to get a couple of capacitors and a big 7805 voltage regulator. Someone with real solar experience can tell you how much of the day you'll actually get all 24w out of your panel, but if it's a cloudy day IDK if you'll ever hit it. Good luck!

I'm not exactly sure what phpdevster is referring to. When I align my Nexstar 6SE I can pick the stars I want to align to. So even if I have a limited amount of sky I can pick 3 stars and it'll align perfectly.

As for the portable battery unit, I use the one below and it works perfectly!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MF70BPU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I agree with almost everything OP said, but I think the F2 charger is betterlink here . It can also act as a powerbank to charge a phone off of your 18650 if need be. Certainly a 4 cell charger would be nice for a 4 cell light, but if these are going to sit dormant for long periods of time, taking the time to charge 2 cells at a time matters less. Similarly, this can charge off of usb meaning if you have an anker solar panel or similar phone charging device you can use it to charge your flashlight. With the other setups, you need 110v ac to be up and working.

As many have said, go with Eneloops. But also get a good charger.

I recommend (I use) the La Cross Technology BC-700 Alpha - It charges 4 at a time, each separately (generally good for improved live time of the batteries vs most chargers that do 2 or 4 on one charge channel, but NECESSARY for charging anything individually or 3 or other odd numbers, such as you might get with rock band instruments ...)


edit: the PowerEx MH-C9000 recommended below by others should do all the same things as the one I linked as well.

edit2: Actually I have the BC-900(9) pack that came with batteries and travel case, the difference being the 900 has higher charge rate options.. but I never use them, so the 700 will work as well. The BC-900(9) appear to be discontinued.

Yeah most chargers for double A batteries are crappy, they charge super slow
This are the batteries I have

Energizer Rechargeable AA Batteries, NiMH, 2300 mAh, Pre-Charged, 8 count (Recharge Power Plus) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QMXX4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.6UzDb32FBKNT

And this is the charger, I guess it only has 3 lights


Energizer Rechargeable AA and AAA Battery Charger (Recharge Pro) with 4 AA NiMH Rechargeable Batteries, Auto-Safety Feature, Over-charge Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM3P8GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_17UzDbSAMPFSC

Efest chargers have a good reputation around here, despite their failures with battery labeling. The Nitecore i4 is very basic and has no display that will show your battery voltages, etc, so I wouldn't recommend it. If you're willing to spend a bit more on a fantastic charger I can personally recommend the Opus BT C3100 V2.2.