Overview

Time to finally do my car during the weekend of July 30th. This car had not been detailed since July 2014 and has had a lot more miles added on it. Sunday, 7/16/17, this car turned 5 years old and is now at 53k miles.

This car is garage kept at home for most of the time. Parked in an open parking lot during work hours. Sometimes street parked. It experiences full Chicago winters though and all elements. Sees all driving modes from stop-and-go traffic to 130mph+ highway cruises and local streets.

The goal was to get everything I wanted done on a Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Friday it decided to rain several times during the wash, but that was all good. I still kept washing in the rain and used the rain as some of my rinses. I had to get out of dodge by 4pm Sunday so I could avoid the country bugs on my drive back home to the city.

I left the following on the table to get done before winter comes:

• Windshield restoration (full polishing and treatment application)
  
• Headlight and Tail Light Restoration (just need to be polished and then have coating applied)
  
  ---
  
  

  Work Done
  

  
  The goal was to get it done so now I don't have to worry about it again for another 2-3 years. I wanted to get the paint corrected to an acceptable level and then put a good amount of protection on it to survive at least 2 winters and 2 summers.
  
  As the title states, I tried to accomplish a lot here.
  
  

• Wash, Clay, & Protectant
  
• Paint Correction
  
• Paint Coating (2 layers)
  
• Tip Restoration
  
• The Exceptional Interior
  
• Paint Chip Repair
  
• Trim Restoration
  
  Services described here
  
  The entire detail is outlined in the album, but I will share the gist of it here so I can link products.
  
  The exterior was properly washed with our 20-stage decontamination and wash process. Here is the fire hose nozzle I use tied up with a quick shut-off valve. TRIX was awesome as always. It turned a good amount of purple all over and made the claybarring step go smoothly. The entire car was 1-step corrected with the PC and a Blue Wool Pad/orange 4" foam pad/hand orange pad and Menzerna Heavy Cut Compound 400 (formerly FG400).
  
  The car was around a 85% for paint quality. I'd say this 1-step easily got it to ~93%. It removed the majority of glaringly obvious defects and it would only take a detailer's mindset now to see that final 7% of defects.
  
  The exterior was completely wiped clean with CarPro Eraser. The car was then coated entirely with CarPro CQuartz (2 layers) and then topped with CarPro Reload.
  
  The interior was vacuumed and then was completely cleaned with McKee's 37 Total Interior Cleaner. This product is my go-to for interiors. It works flawlessly and it has a great smell that does linger and just smells naturally clean. I use these types of interior clothes for working with that product. This brush was also utilized to help really get around the leather pores and locations like air vents and the steering wheel.
  
  All interior hard surfaces were treated with Lexol Premium Protectant. Glass was all cleaned with glass MF towels and Stoner's Invisibile Glass.
  
  I cleaned the engine. Finally. The engine was completely cleaned using Chemical Guy's All Clean+ and just general microfiber clothes from a place like AutoZone. The engine was then dressed with Adam's In & Out Spray to enhance the appearance of all plastic/rubber parts.
  
  Door jambs were cleaned up with an MF and P21S Total Auto Wash.
  
  Paint chips were fixed up with the Dr. Colorchip kit. Felt good to finally clean that rust chip on the hood and fix the trunk damage up some more.
  
  The honeycomb grills were cleaned up with a foam application, MF towel, and Klasse All-in-One. Topped with Adam's In&Out Spray.
  
  The exhaust tips were cleaned up using 0000 Steel Wool and Blue Magic Metal Polish and Adam's Metal Polish #1. I used a metal polishing microfiber towel to aid in this process.
  
  The trim was cleaned with the CG All Clean+ and then dressed with Chemical Guys Natural Matte Shine Dressing.
  
  The tires were dressed with AMMO MUD and the wheel wells shined up with Adam's Undercarriage Spray. Wheels were cleaned up with a very soft microfiber and P21S Wheel Cleaner.
  
  ---
  
  

  Response
  

  
  I loved it. It feels so good to drive it again like this. Just want to touch up a few more things and I'll be fully satisfied. I absolutely am so much happier now that my engine is clean again.
  
  
  ---
  
  

  Reflection and Lessons Learned
  

  
  Not much here outside of just taking care of the car more. I neglected that engine bay for too long but thankfully it was mostly dust. The exhaust tips should have been taken care of more. At least every spring/fall. I will continue to take care of them now 2x a year so they can maintain where they are at and not get worse.
  
  Preventative maintenance very much applies to detailing as much as it applies to anything mechanical.
  
  ---
  
  Total Time: 17 hours on exterior, 3 hours on interior
  
  Total Cost: Obviously free for me, but to give an idea of what I would have charged for this...it would have been $1,933.98. The 2 layers of coating and Reload would have been $900 alone. The rest of my prices you can see on my site.
  
  www.chicagosdad.com
  
  www.facebook.com/chicagosdad
  
  Former Chicago's DAD /r/AutoDetailing Detail Write-Ups

Please excuse the length, I love making lists.

Video Production

Green Screen

Bounce

Tripod

Books

Dining with Dr Who

Writing movies for fun and profit This is a great book. I have it, absolutely hysterical.

Writing

Ink quill

TARDIS Deluxe Journal

Travel

Street Signs

Flags

Eiffel Tower Chocolate Mold

Little Window Beach

17th century world map

Watercolor World Map

Universal world wide adapter plug

Hidden pocket wallet



Science!

Liquid Gold Plating Kit

Molecular Gastronomy Kit

This one also works for gardening:
Moons and Blooms lunar calender

Inflatable earth with glow in the dark cities

Galilea Moon Phase Calendar and Clock

Glow in the dark lunar calender!

Art

Sunprint Kit

Scrapper tool set

Fantasy!

LOTR inspired necklace

Another LOTR inspired necklace

Dragon necklace

Dragon JEwerly box

These/this are/is a book, but Mercedes Lackey is a FANTASTIC fantasy writer. I'd start with the Mage Winds trilogy or Mage Wars series.

Outdoors

Portal-able Speakers If you want to listen to relaxing music (or just music) while reading or chilling outside, this is the perfect speaker. It goes pretty loud, my bro has one, I steal if to make my showers musical.

Solar power LED Water proof color changing globes

Ball lanterns!


Math

Math clock

Mental Math

Pi ice cube shape tray

Mini Abacus pendant keychain

And it was delicious

Math jokes

Math/science ice cube tray


Rubik's Cube office thingy

Abacus-they have these in all colors and shapes and what have you.

Spirituality

Wasn't quite sure what you're looking for, but these things are pretty relaxing and some of them are used in meditation or for relaxation/de-stress so I figured I could put 'em here.

[LED mini waterfall)(http://www.amazon.com/Mirrored-Waterfall-Light-Show-Fountain/dp/B008Q3GH1O/ref=pd_sim_hpc_17)

Zen reflection bonzai tree with a little pond

Candle and water fountain

Five tier illuminated fountain

Other random fun things!

DR Who Projector clock

Sherlock season one Dunno but I feel you might like this show.

Giant Nail polish set


Nail art brushes

LED faucet water glow thing

Alright! I think I'll stop there before this becomes a novel xD

>Ok that doesn't sound too bad or expensive, actually sounds kind of fun, maybe I'll make it a hobby, supplement my income or use some to trade my RAD might get in the way of that though.

Danger! This way be dragons. :)

>Where can you get those polishes, I have never seen those particular ones?

I buy them locally at an ACE Hardware, but if you can't find them locally you can get them on Amazon: Flitz and Maas

>Also how did I do value wise, are any of those valuable or anything? Did I spend too much?

Let's see...

I think you took a bit of a bath on the third lot with the Red Tip. The Techmatic doesn't get any love because it's not all that pleasant to shave with and even if it were it's not exactly easy to find replacement cartridges for it. The Valet Auto-Strop is also not going to bring a whole lot. They're not bad shavers, and that gold one at least can take regular SE blades if you pop the spine off of them, but they're basically filler razors that people use to pad out lots. If you get into collecting at all seriously you should basically value them at $0 when you're figuring what you're willing to pay for a lot because you'll end up with a shoebox of them without even trying.

Take that other lot, for example. The way I'd look at that grouping is to immediately discount the Christie and the clippers as just somebody else's junk. That particular Auto-Strop requires special SE blades with a knockout inside the blade, so it's even less desirable than usual. So you're left with the Flare Tip Super Speed, the Ever-Ready 1924-patent "Shovelhead," and the brush. The razors are both good shavers, although the Super Speed is missing at least one end cap -- not an issue from a functional standpoint, but it hurts its value. The brush looks like a decent little travel brush. The old knot is probably shot (though maybe not) but it might be worth reknotting it if the handle were nice enough.

Still, you're only into the lot for $25 shipped, which is fine unless you're looking to flip any of it. Figure about $10 each for the Super Speed (dinged for condition) and the 1924, a couple bucks for the brush, and a couple bucks for postage and you're at fair money.

I'd say the other two Super Speeds are about the same -- decent prices for your own use, not great if you're looking to resell them.

You're very welcome; I'm just a mere nomo who's happy to help.

All of that said in my original post, if I were you I'd try something a little less permanent on the first try. I'd also want something that would have no chance of flaking off and making a big mess of my mod (lacquer will eventually fail). After polishing and a solvent cleanse, I'd probably apply a wax. It's not a forever solution, but it should reduce how often you'll have to polish and it's pretty easy to remove/polish/reapply.

Renaissance Wax is a museum quality product renowned protecting antiques/collector items and it works great on all metals and more. Amazon carries 65ml and 200ml containers at a fairly reasonable price.

That's probably where I'd go first, but my experience with applying coatings is very limited...I spec them all the time, but never have to actually use them. :) I hope your experiment goes well!

Atrium Anniversary! 🥳

In honor of today’s Drop of the Abacus I decided to polish up my Copper Atrium and carry it today at work. I can’t believe it’s been two years since the original Atriums dropped. Preorders started 10/22/17.

After receiving it I ordered tritium vials in Green and Purple and added them with UV resin. Have been real happy with how they turned out and a delightful display in the night.

I have been letting my Copper pieces patina. But about once a year I have been repolishing them with Blue Magic and then recently started applying Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. I have been super impressed with this wax and how long Copper and Brass/Bronze items remain shiny. Some are free from patina even when they come back around in my rotation a month later.

Blue Magic 400 7 Ounce 7OZ MTL Polish Cream
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5h2PDbNMVKHCA

Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish (65 ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PosSl7D59dCRQ

I spent the past week cleaning all of my NES, SNES, Super Famicom and Famicom cartridges. Taking the cartridges apart just makes it easier to get leverage while polishing the pins, and it just helps with wiping down the PCB and the inside of the cartridge shells.

I mostly followed this guide I found on Ars Technica.

I happened to have a can of Brasso metal polish laying around so I used that instead of the polish the article recommends. I also picked up a pack of Target brand magic erasers to use to clean the outer part of the cartridge shells.

In my experience, polishing the pins does more than just wiping the pins down with isopropyl alcohol. It's also a judgement call. If the pins look pretty clean then you probably don't need to polish them. Here's a before pic of a NES cartridge. And here's what it looks like after I polished the pins. This is was one my cleaner games before polishing. I wish I took before and after pics of one of my dirtier games.

I don't know. I hear good things about "the patch", but there's a lot of programs to help you quit... ;)

Okay, the serious answer: I've had a ludicrous amount of good luck with this stuff: MetalGlo
If it's metal, and doesn't look good, this stuff will make it look good again. You should be able to find it in almost any hardware store, and probably places like Target and Wal-Mart too.

Pure silver wouldn’t “rust” per se, but electroplated nickel steel (EPNS) items could.

So, we have display items from the 1800s at work, proper silver that has been hallmarked.

If there is a considerable amount of issues with an item, a soft toothbrush and a bit of elbow grease dipped in
silver polish cream will remove most of the patina (we like our silver shiny). To remove the additional polish that sticks into the nooks and crannies (the excess polish dries dull pink to be easily seen), dip the toothbrush into
silver dip
(different tubs for display and food service items!) and scrub off the dried up polish. Buff with a soft cloth (we use ripped up old cotton bed sheets as rags).

The use of gloves and a face mask is always greatly encouraged, especially the latter when you’re removing the dried polish, becomes a fine dust.

Food service items, we’ll silver dip in a tub (again different bottles for food and display), then immediately wash in running water. We may use a soft sponge to scrub it a bit. If there is a spec of rust through the EPNS, we’ll clean that off with a
Brillo Pad
very lightly; you will cause some fine micro scratches to the plating around the rust, but it’ll just remove a fine layer.

NOT TO BE USED ON DISPLAY ITEMS!

I’ve had a group of over zealous lads come through before and pour a bit of silver dip into a silver ice bucket from 1870s before, then leave it in the Silver Store. Since it wasn’t a piece that was regularly rotated for display, we didn’t realise that it was full with dip for the better part of a few months. Couldn’t smell it either, since the store smelled of polish. When we did find it, it was as expected, but with crystals everywhere. Turned a sludgy black too. The acid in the dip actually burned through the silver, so that was totally lost.

To remove the crystals, a screwdriver, hot water, and a few hours of chipping and scrubbing may have been involved. Externally the ice bucket is still display worthy, just don’t look inside.

Once the silver plate is lost, it’ll be just a base brassy yellow colour in that spot. I’ll try to find an example at work later.

We regularly dip our EPNS cutlery at least once or twice a week; after through washing (especially if egg yolk has been involved), open a jar and just dip the fork tines in, less than 2 seconds is enough, if you want to swirl it around you can too, until the tarnish is removed, then wash in running water.

Hello fello Canuk!

I use headlight polish bought from walmart to great success. yes - it's for plastic, but it works absolutely perfectly on metal contacts.

i think the bottle cost me 7 bucks. i initially bought it for - you guessed it, headlights! but after a while i decided to try it on my GBC screen (too cheap to buy a replacement) with little luck. also tried it on my cart contacts, holy crap! it's my go-to now. brasso just smells so bad i never want to use it.


https://www.amazon.ca/BRITE-BOY-62015-Metal-Polish/dp/B005CDJT5W

lol over 100 bucks... fuck that.

edit: im sure to clean my carts with windex afterwards... no idea what chemicals are in there but i want to make sure it's cleaned off afterwards.

Super simple. Just get a microfiber cloth or old rag or whatever, some non-abrasive metal polish like Flitz or, I like to use this stuff
Apply polish to cloth and just scrub until it is all shiny and sexy. Alternatively, you can use a dremel with a buffing attachment, but I really enjoy polishing by hand.

That's all there is to it, other than taking a toothpick and getting into the grip serrations to scrape out the years of accumilated Isreali soldier finger crud.

I went thru a few tutorials, howto's and forums about forcing patinas and worked out how I can do it. I Googled "brass forced patina" and "brass salt ammonia patina" and "ammonia forced patina" etc... I just consumed a few articles til I got an idea of roughly what to do, then jumped in. Pretty sure there are YouTube videos, but they won't give you much more.

A big thing is how long you keep them in the corrosive environment. I couldn't check on the pen til about 6 hours later so it was lucky that it turned into a fairly good result. Maybe 10 or 12 hours would be prettier.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

You basically seal off anything you don't want altered, like interiors and threads. Cover with salt, or coarse salt, or even kitty litter. The parts that are salted are the parts that will corrode less. And the parts around the salted area will corrode. Those are the little black outlines in the pen.

Suspend the pieces so they don't touch anything, in a sealed environment (don't fuck with ammonia vapor [or lacquer vapor])

Careful of contact between pieces or with saturated paper, of drips accumulating on pieces, and of over-corroding so the pieces get pitted. I don't know how long it would take for that to happen.

Clean the piece well. Mine was a couple days old. If yours has a natural patina already, maybe go over it with high grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool.

I used this lacquer, but by no means is it the only, nor even the best option. But it works. I got some on my fingernail trying to get rid of a drip. It's significantly harder and more durable than nail polish.

I agree. For all people to accept encapsulation, the highest priority is visibility. For my slabs, I use clear 3x4 inch plastic bags, so all the handling damage happens to the bag, not the slab. Then, when it's too scratched to satisfy me, I simply replace it. Here's a fairly comprehensive link to all the info you need to get the right bags:

• Where to find recloseable bags for slabs?
  
  There are ways to polish the slab plastic to get the scratches out. Meguiar's plastic polish is one way. Search around and I'm sure you can find other suggestions for ways to polish the slab plastic. Then, when it's done, put it in a clear bag instead of handling it directly.
  
  Check out ggoodluck2013's (new, ending, sold) listings on ebay. He almost always has something in stock that has the coins embedded in clear Lucite.

Have you looked at a stainless steel cleaner like Cameo? My parents and I always use this on our stainless steel and aluminum, so I've never needed to use steel wool.

You can get it on Amazon, and I've also seen it at some grocery stores. I may have also seen it at one point at Bed Bath and Beyond, but I have no idea if they still carry it or not.

I know how hard it can be to be around a subtle trigger; I hope you can find a workaround that works for you! (Also, congrats on the new cookware! That's always a fun thing.)

Aluminum Cleaners are popular in automotive and marine aisle, Blue Magic works nicely

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-400-Ounce-Polish/dp/B000BO8Z9I

This will help with the oxidization. I like to use it with a wool buffing head on my drill. Saves elbow grease. I can get a nice finish this way.

if you want a more highly polished finish, get some wet dry metal sandpaper above 800. I use it in steps from 800 to 2300 to get a mirror finish on vintage pots and pans.

[presently working on a book on restoring vintage kitchenware]

I restored a red tip that was in similar condition with:
These
and some of This
I soaked the razor in some warm water for an hour or so then used the nylon and brass brushes to scrub the gunk and rust off.
Then I soaked it again.
Then I used the brushes again with some dish soap. Then soaked it again. I ended up using a dental pick to get into the little nooks and loosen them. When the gunk was loosened from the nooks I used the nylon brush to scrub some more.
Once that was done I rinsed it off pretty good and dried it. I then used my dremmel with the polishing head and the metal polish to shine it up.
Came out looking great!

I used this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UJ1DD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It did a pretty good job. The previous owner must've never cleaned them because there was still a decent amount of residue. But yeah this stuff and some super fine steel wool would work.

Any car wax can work. I've had good luck with this: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34

Just apply it like car wax, let it dry, and wipe clean with a clean soft cloth.

The grips are Ivory and can be worth a huge amount. You should get the two 1862's (not quite sure that's what they are, would need better view of them) lettered from colt. They could be worth potentially 10,000 or more each, especially if that's factory engraving.

DO NOT CLEAN THEM. You do not know what you're doing, you will fuck them up. Your best bet would be to find a professional restorer or gunsmith (not just some jackass that can change a shotgun barrel either) and have them clean them properly. More antique guns are ruined by "I'll just scrub this rust off" and "how could this possibly harm the finish, it's made for guns" than by anything else. If you must do anything, a careful brushing with a firm bristled toothbrush (and nothing else. No copper brushes, steel brushes, steel wool, brass brushes or cleaners on the toothbrush) to remove dust and dirt followed by the use of a product like renaissance wax to impede further degradation is what I would recommend. The ivory needs to be treated especially carefully, as it gets older, it gets very fragile.

I would suggest contacting someone like Turnbull or another well recommended restorer as soon as possible.


http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO

http://www.turnbullmfg.com/

I second commiecat's suggestion of the metal polish and dental floss. I've used it on numerous razors however I would caution that some razors can get loose at the pivot pin, especially older razors that don't have washers on the outside of the scales and just have the pins peened over. If this happens you can use a (4oz preferably or an 8oz if that's all you have) ball peen hammer to very lightly tap the pin and try to peen it some more and tighten it up. Also, I've tried a few metal polishes and I prefer Blue Magic to Maas or Flitz. It really works on getting tarnish off but does have a powerful stench so use in a well ventilated area.

To prevent rust from occurring again, you should try to get some oil into the hinge and even wipe down the blade if you have multiple razors and won't be using one for a while. Mineral oil is great for this and you can find it in the pharmacy for cheap, it's sold as a laxative, lol. Moisten a q-tip and try to work it around the hinge area. If you want something fancy, look for a Tuf-Glide pen. I found them for sale at an antique store while I was hunting for razors but I would assume they are sold at hardware stores and such.

I would use the Blitz silicone treated polishing cloth https://www.amazon.com/Blitz-silicone-treated-Polish-Cloth/dp/B002Q0WT9W

It's impregnated with silicone and helps keep your lacquer looking shiny and new. Actually, I use this cloth on my silver trumpet, even though it's not designed for that.

Silver polishing cloths have an abrasive that physically rubs the tarnish off. They leave scratches in your silver plate, and if they scratch silver, they'd definitely scratch lacquer. Plus, silver polishing cloths tend to be thick and hard to use.

In order to keep the silver tarnish-free, I use Twinkle Silver Polish https://www.amazon.com/Twinkle-525005-Silver-Polish-Kit/dp/B000QRARKU when I clean my horn. It has a chemical reaction that makes the tarnish disappear without any abrasive.

And just to keep the silver bright, I put 3M Silver Protector Strips https://www.amazon.com/3M-Silver-Protect-Strip-Protector/dp/B003LDL8SG in my case. I have used a Pacific Silvercloth-based tarnish prevention bag in the past, but haven't found it to be needed as long as I use Twinkle when washing the horn and keep the trumpet in the case with anti-tarnish strips.

Hope that helps those of you who own silver instruments!

Yep! There's some kind of UV coat or something on the lens and it oxidizes. It's not dirt, don't bother with windex,

Best way to clean it is to get some of this shit and a q-tip or cotton ball. Takes 15 seconds, your camera will work like new again.

I just got some of this stuff off of Amazon. How am I supposed to go about using it?

Do I try to get my pipes as clean as possible with soap/water, and then use this as a finish? What parts of my bike can I use this on? What parts am I not allowed to use it on?

Do you have any hints or tips about how to use it in the best possible way?

Thanks!

I am not sure how the side view mirror is actually mounted on this model but I can give a general idea.

On the inside of the door there is a plastic triangle trim right on the opposite side of where the mirror is and usually it pops off by pulling on it. This will give you access to some screws that hold the whole assembly to the door.

From there you will have to work your magic to figure out how to get it secured nice and tight as I don't know how bad it is.


The bumper is usually held in with screws or some clips or slid into something. Once again I don't know exactly how it is on this model, hopefully some one can tell you how to fix it correctly for this model. But for now you can go and inspect around to maybe figure out how it should be mounted.

The side trim on your TDI should be held on with tabs build into the side trim, inserted into the holes on the door and locked in some way. Either the tabs have broken off so one way would use some double sided tape made for side moldings/body work.

For the headlights I use Blue Magic Polishing Cream that a friend left at my previous house years ago. It works well and only removes surface oxidation. If it's there deep this polish won't be enough and very fine grit sandpaper is what you will need to use. I have to warn that this polish has ammonia in it so work in a well ventilated area. You will need to follow up with a sealant or it will turn yellow again in a month or two.

This stuff is amazing, we used some towelette samples and loved it. https://wowezfinish.com/buy-now/


Looks like it's also on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GEZU8M/

Get this stuff. It's FANTASTIC!! Best results are when you get a good amount of rags tho. Apply some of that scrub, clean rag, clean off. Repeat until it's to your liking.
Here's how mine came out, not a drastic difference because I don't let it build too much, but it works wonders!

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QGZXCS

That stuff works great on metal and headers, though you might want to tread more carefully on painted and finished parts.

I would try kerosene first, personally. Won't wreck anything you didn't intend to get it on, degreases wonderfully, and evaporates cleanly.

That's a lovely piece, and an inventive way to decorate some pretty labradorite.

I use Renaissance Wax polish (Amazon) to finish all my oxidised work. It was was developed by The British Museum for protection of fine art and will not stain or discolour with aging. It is acid neutral, water and alcohol resistant. You may wish to re-apply this coating in time due to wear / usage.

I been using this cheapie and stop wearing my ring while cooking/dishes. My ring now stays oil slick free for about 3-5 months.

Edit weird: the link is not show up in mobile link. Wright's Silver Cleaner and Polish Cream - 8 Ounce - Ammonia Free - Gently Clean and Remove Tarnish Without Scratching https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000S8JKLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MKvQCb88CDC2V

I had good luck with Meguiar's plastic polish. I did it by hand but if you've got a rotary or orbital tool you can save yourself a lot of arm strain. This reminds me I've got a before and after shot here.

Whatever you decide to do...make sure you brasso the shit out of it when your done to make it shine like new.

Step one: soak in ketchup or lemon juice for several hours, use a toothbrush to get in between those fins until you get it as clean as you can, it will still look tarnished.

Step two: BRASSO THAT BITCH

Use a soft cloth or rag, and let the brasso melt all that corrosion off onto the rag. After you get it as clean as you can, soak in isopropyl alcohol to remove any fine layer of brasso left over and rinse in a bowl of distilled water.

Step three: resolve to not use aluminum in your loop from now on.

You do not need polish for a lacquered horn, but if you have a silver plated horn I would personally recommend "Wrights Silver Polish". It's water based so it will be easier to get in the nooks and crannies of your horn. (ex. flare of bell, valve block, etc.) I just use a lint free cloth when polishing the horn.

Here's a link
http://www.amazon.com/Wrights-Anti-Tarnish-Silver-Polish/dp/B000KKIKOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398647817&sr=8-1&keywords=wrights+silver+polish

That looks like residual rust from a previous owner leaving a carbon steel Gillette Blue Blade in the razor. I've had good luck using MAAS metal polish on vintage razors.

I use this stuff on metals, including occasionally on pens I want to protect:

http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418940793&sr=8-1&keywords=renaissance+wax

My jar is 20 years old, but seems to work fine and looks just like the one @ amazon. I originally got it to keep swords from rusting while unused.

BlueMagic 300 Metal Polish Cream - 3.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UJ1DD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BhKtxb4TPQR5T

Thanks! Since it is a low mileage car, they were pretty easy.

[Brasso] (https://www.amazon.com/Brasso-Multi-purpose-Metal-Polish-Ounce/dp/B00EOCO93Y/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1479673340&sr=8-1&keywords=brasso#customerReviews) - I used it for four years in NJROTC to polish my belt buckle. It smells like shit and takes a good 30-40 minutes of scrubbing to do the trick, but the result is literally blinding. Just dab a tiny bit on a cotton cloth, fold it around your index/middle finger(s), and rub in small circles.

It'll get rid of surface-level nicks but will not remove medium to deep scratches. Works best on brass and stainless steel.

I know a polish like that serves no practical use but they sure do look purdy!

Here is the polish & the felt wheels, I also had to pick up the chuck just to make is easy.

Probably the best product to coat your barrel with to prevent rust is Renaissance Wax. This is what museums use to protect metal, and other, objects in their collections.

Seconding this. If you want to bring out the big guns, clean with Brite Boy Metal Polish on a cotton swab, then clean that with 91% isopropal alcohol. I'm always surprised about how much junk that removes.

I noticed the exhaust tips could use some polish. I highly recommend this [metal polish](Blue Magic 400 7Oz Mtl Polish Cream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1AZ5AbHD4C68K). Great job overall!!!

They are called finger pump oil cans. Thanks for making me look that up!

First thing I did was scrub it down with some 000 steel wool and Goo Gone. I've never honestly seen anyone else use this combination but it works amazing on aluminum, steel, plated metals and tons of other stuff.

After I got all of the grim off I wiped it down with some all purpose cleaner.

Next I put a buffing ball on my drill and used some Mothers Aluminum polish. After a few pases with the mothers I cleaned off the ball, and finished out with some Blue Magic 400. The Mothers polish has a small amount of abrasive which helped smooth out what the steel wool did and the Blue Magic 400 has no abrasive and leaves a longer lasting protective coat then the Mothers. I have found you can make just about anything look new with this quick and easy method. Check out how nice it cleaned up the shocks on my bike Album.

You should be able to find either it, or an equivalent like Flitz I think. If not, its on amazon. You want to make sure you get the cream variety like this

Recently I cleaned up the exhaust headers on my KZ1300 build before installing them.

One before-and-after

The whole set of 6

It took several hours -- probably about 10 total -- and a lot of elbow grease.

I started with Brasso to remove the rust, rubbing it along with a #1 steel wool pad (#3 if it was really nasty). Then I cleaned that off and repeated as necessary.

Once I had a good foundation I switched to a milder metal polish (here), rubbing that on with a Scotts towel and letting it sit. I then gave it some elbow grease with a #00 pad until it turned black, wiped it off, applied more, and rubbed it with a #0000 pad and then wiped that off.

The results were quite good, but it definitely took a bit of time. I spent a lot of time listening to Hardcore History while working at my bench!

I would imagine Blue Magic Metal Polish would remove the stain. I haven't used it in this specific application (copper on a Roman's Inception), but I have used it on brass rods and it gives an amazing shine to them. I would suggest not touching the part as much as possible. Even though Blue Magic is supposed to provide a protective covering I found extensive handling of the rods tarnished them once more.

Your method is good, and that polish is fine. I use BlueMagic metal polish (http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I) and love it but the Mothers stuff will work fine too.

This stuff is pretty good: http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=sr_1_2/185-1115514-7925907?ie=UTF8&qid=1397488317&sr=8-2&keywords=renaissance+wax+polish

Blue Magic Metal Polish
or
motorcycle shops carry chrome polish wadding-its long strips of cloth with the polish in it. It's for spoked wheels, you wrap it around the tube and pull back and forth on it. I used it on a bike I bought with rusty wheels and it worked great.

Decided to not be lazy, here's the link:

Luster Lace

If it's metal of some sort, you can produce a mirror finish by following these steps.

• Step 1: Wet sand using 1000-2000 grit sand paper
  
• Step 2: Apply Blue Magic Metal Polish (or similar)
  
• Step 3: Apply several light coats of clear paint
  
  Notes:
  
  
• Step 1 is optional if the surface is in good condition (but will require more work in step 2)
  
• Step 2 will go a lot faster if you use a dremel / drill / grinder with a polishing wheel
  
• Step 3 is optional if you don't mind repolishing at a later date
  
• All the products should be available at your local auto parts store (Advance Auto, AutoZone, etc.).
  
  Links:
  
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixrlPYcRvjM
  
• http://www.amazon.com/3M-03023-Imperial-Wetordry-Sandpaper/dp/B005RN0ISY
  
• http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BCL0125-Clear-Exact-Match-Automotive/dp/B00407NK6A
  

i've had good results with a non-abrasive metal polish like this one

Just a suggestion, in the future instead of paying extra for "tumbling media," get this: lizard bedding. Same stuff, different label. I personally occasionally add a bit of silver polish. It works on all metals and is ammonia free, so it doesn't damage your brass.

I bet polishing the scale with Brasso will take the branding right off. I used to use it on legos to remove printing from pieces. Worked great.

Try Brasso - http://www.amazon.com/Reckitt-10116-Brasso-Metal-Polish/dp/B00BILDIU4.

The coin is already ruined, like you said, but this stuff will at least make it pretty.

You should be able to find a vinyl polish at the auto parts stores, follow directions on the bottle and test a corner first like it probably tells you to.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

Something like that.

yeah, i was doing some research and that seemed to have the best reviews.

my next additions will be:

Simple Green for the engine bay.

Brasso + 0000 steel wool for the exhaust.

EDIT: actually i heard Brasso isn't very good anymore so I'll have to find another metal polish.

some tricks i know for cleaning up rust are: Fold a small piece of aluminum foil up and flatten it as smooth as possible. (a rolling pin or pen help) then dip it in water and rub over the rust lightly, keeping it wet. Next a little bit of 0000 steel wool. then finish with a good polish like blue magic or wizards metal polish.

I've been using this on my lights and rear window (convertible). It's fantastic!

A museum would use Renaissance wax., I've spoken to maritime archaeological conservators, they actually do use it. My uncle, a coin dealer who specializes in ancient coins (Roman and earlier) says that Johnson paste floor wax is the same thing as renaisance wax, and much cheaper. It smells quite a bit like car wax, for whatever that is worth.

Renaissance Wax is one of my favorites. You could possibly get Rottenstone and a little mineral oil to rub it out but I don't know how you are expecting it to look as far as sheen. Poly isn't a finish I ever mess with too much once it's on. I will usually spray it and forget it because it doesn't usually respond well to reworking (as you can tell). The wax should even things out for you and if you need to refinish it some day you can clean it with Denatured Alcohol before you sand it.

I know sword, gun, and other antique collectors use Renaissance Wax to protect their metal items, especially for long term storage. It dries quickly, and provides a very hardy rustproof coating.

Nevrdull and a very fine steel wool worked well for me.

Use brasso to clean copper.

I use Blue Magic 400 and #0000 Steel Wool. Does a great job making those tips look new. It's also very cheap! Apply the steel wool with light to moderate pressure. Wipe it down with a microfiber towel that you don't care about being stained and you're all set.

http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I

I just wipe it down with some Ballistol or oil after cleaning. Lots of people recommend this stuff for polishing blued guns: https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-Polish-200-ml/dp/B0012S1XBO

I can see at least one contact that looks like it has some gunk on it.

99% of problems with old carts is the contacts.

Upgrade from alcohol to Brasso, which you can get at any Wal Mart for like $3.

https://www.amazon.com/RECKITT-BENCKISER-76523-Brasso-Polish/dp/B00BILDIU4/ref=pd_lpo_121_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XSK1DDXG29WY11BMN6AG

It smells horrible but it really gets the job done.

Source: Restored a yard sale NES and several games recently.

Edit: Brasso Link

I used this product from amazon (honestly i just picked one semi randomly when I couldn't find the same brand I was told to use), It worked just fine. As for the dremel bit, I used the white fuzzy round thing you probably get in every dremel kit you've ever seen.

http://www.amazon.com/Nevr-Dull-Metal-Polish-Bci/dp/B000QGZXCS/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375128714&sr=8-1&keywords=NEVR-DULL + some steel wool yep.

Amazon! Can't believe I didn't think of that. I buy everything on amazon. Head is not on right today.

I use Gundam Marker Erasure to remove , and Renaissance Wax to prevent further color transfers.

If there's discoloration on the body, etc, Weathering Master works wonders.

If you want more info, there's a NSFW Japanese blog post about it.

Assuming that is solid metal and one color all the way through, I would try something made for polishing metal. Looks like brass but I can't tell for sure from that photo.

https://www.amazon.com/Brasso-76523-Multi-Purpose-Metal-Polish/dp/B00BILDIU4

If you want to try something you already have sitting around the house this article has some suggestions:

https://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/maintenance-and-repair/cleaning/how-to-clean-brass

Pick up Brasso or a similar contact cleaner at your local grocery store, it takes about 5 minutes to use. Or order it here.

Try a headlight cleaning kit.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY


OR Meguiars plastic cleaner and polish
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34

If you ever end up with some infuriating scratches on your epoxy countertop you can polish it out.

https://www.novuspolish.com/ -or- https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34/

I do a lot of work with plastic, especially epoxy. And both of those product lines are great choices.

Get yourself some Never-Dull. It works really well but keep your expectations realistic. If you have green oxidation on gold hardware it will never become pristine as it was new.

https://www.amazon.com/George-Basch-Never-Dull-Wadding-Polish/dp/B000QGZXCS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526056262&sr=8-3&keywords=never-dull

Scrubbing Bubbles & hot water worked in with an old toothbrush followed by some Maas metal polish. This combo has never failed me.

Get some Brasso and polish it.

https://www.amazon.com/RECKITT-BENCKISER-76523-Brasso-Polish/dp/B00BILDIU4

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brasso

http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO

People use it to finish wood-turned objects, or do-dads of some description, I've seen it on guitars and saw a post about some guy who said he uses it in museums.

"Renaissance Wax" - https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO

used by museums worldwide.

otherwise, plain simple 3-in-1 oil and a soft cloth.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: MaasMetalPolish


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Canada|amazon.ca|




This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).

Metal polish also works.

Nevr-dull and/or a cape cod cloth.

http://www.amazon.com/George-Basch-Never-Dull-Wadding-Polish/dp/B000QGZXCS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409715034&sr=8-1&keywords=nevr+dull

I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mohawk-Home-M103-0500-Brass-Lacquer/dp/B003BG53EI

for other stuff around the house, but did not use it on the CG. (By the time I realized I was getting patches, it was too late!) I ultimately used Flitz to polish off the remnants of the antiqued coating, and went back to a shiny brass look.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34

MEGUIARS #10 and #17

new bottles, same stuff.

Twinkle Silver Polish

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwHU0iRtJa0

https://www.amazon.com/Twinkle-525005-Silver-Polish-Kit/dp/B000QRARKU

Most oil is corrosive to iron-based metals. Use either WD-40 (good) or Renaissance Wax (better)

Brasso

I used Renaissance wax. I also sanded the band up to 4000 grit to a matte finish. click

http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO

That stuff might work for you

Never used it, but maybe this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002VAZ34

This is magic deoxidating polish. Buy it. Its cheap. And will last forever

This

Or this

Both of which are available at your local grocery store or Walmart.

Get a little silver polish.
Use as instructed on the package.

link
P.S. This will last for years

Not OP, but I use this for polishing.

or 20 dollars

Try those with MAAS or a similar product:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-400-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I

I used Wright’s Silver Cream

http://www.amazon.com/United-Cutlery-UC2723-Metal-Polishing/dp/B000F6UC98

Should do the trick with removing the rust. I would also oil your blade before you put it away for extended periods of time.

https://smile.amazon.com/Brasso-Multipurpose-Metal-Polish-8-oz/dp/B00BILDIU4

This stuff did wonders for the old iPod backs.

https://www.amazon.com/Brasso-Multipurpose-Metal-Polish-8-oz/dp/B00BILDIU4/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1468931714&sr=8-1&keywords=brasso

Reviews are terrible lately(formula change) on Brasso. I went to another site that said it helps repair cd's too though.

Maybe Autosol or Autoglym? I'm not sure.

I found MAAS on Amazon.co.uk

used this in the Navy on our brass

Shit is like magic.

Try using Brasso.

Put a dab of Brasso on a towel, and pressing softly, use a circular motion to polish the contacts on both sides, and then wipe it clean.

This has fixed even my most impossibly stubborn games and now they work first try 90% of the time.

I even made a post about it a while back.

If you're having trouble with a lot of games still you might want to look into replacing the 72 pin connector inside the NES, though this takes a bit more work.

I use something called NEVR-DULL. It works really well but after a little bit of driving it's extremely dirty again.

http://www.amazon.com/George-Basch-Never-Dull-Wadding-Polish/dp/B000QGZXCS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409091693&sr=8-1&keywords=nevr-dull

This shit is magic: http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414037817&sr=8-2&keywords=metal+polish