Yeah, the only difference is that I used the Fluval diffuser. The glass diffuser is a lot more fragile - I dropped mine and it shattered. The Fluval one is a clunky piece of plastic, but holds up well. I've been re-evaluating my setup and will be replacing my DIY system with something more robust. Before I get into why, let me go share some advice with they DIY system...

 

First off, I'd also get a check valve. This will prevent siphoned water to back up into your CO2 setup. There are bubble counter/check valve combinations, even a diffuser/counter/check valve combo.

I haven't purchased these, so I can't comment on the quality. I will say - I purchase most if not all my supplies from Amazon with great success. I always buy the least expensive equipment. Most of it I can tell comes from China, but the quality is still pretty good - it gets the job done.

 

Second, the DIY setup is good, but does not last. The DIY kit you can get on Amazon is awesome - fits right on any standard soda bottle and has a nice needle valve and pressure gauge. My problem is durability, the setup I used to create the tank I have in the picture has recently broken down. The pressure gauge ripped off (because the tubing wore down) and although I tried to reattach and seal it, there was a slow leak that I wasn't willing to try and repatch. This is the second DIY kit I've broken, they both broke at the tubing piece that connects the gauge and the bottle cap. The main reason why it breaks down is because I shake the shit out of those bottles to stir up the Baking Soda and/or Citric Acid. I never really paid attention to the pressure gauge flopping to and fro, but now I realize that after enough "fros", the tubing worn down until it tore off. So if you stick with the DIY setup, try to either not shake it like a polaroid picture - or hold the pressure gauge steady.

 

The DIY system is cool because it makes you look like Walter White and also provides a "cheap" way of getting CO2 into your tank. All you have to buy after you have your setup is Baking Soda and Citric Acid. Baking Soda, I get at Costco for cheap and is so big it will last forever. Citric Acid - I haven't really looked in depth at purchasing local - but Amazon sells these 5lb bags for $15. I think it's the best deal on Amazon. I've only bought two bags total (I tried it in my 75 gallon tank - STUPIDEST IDEA EVER - but that was when I was really new to the hobby). I'd say for a 5-10 gallon tank, 1 5lb bag of Citric Acid should last you for maybeee a year - depends on your bubbles per second obviously.

 

One major con I have for the DIY system besides durability is that it's all manual. Sure - you can figure out how to rig up a solenoid of some sort and what not to get it on a timer- but seems like more trouble than it's worth for a DIY system. I let my CO2 run 24/7 which isn't ideal - but as the picture above clearly shows - it works. The other downside of it being manual is that baking soda surprisingly doesn't mix all the way with water. So when you introduce it to the citric acid solution (which mixes well with water) - the entire reaction may not occur until you shake it and baking soda then reaches the citric acid. Having to periodically check my CO2 system isn't terribly difficult, especially if you chose the DIY setup to save money - but sometimes if too much citric acid is transferred into the Baking Soda side - a fuckton of CO2 is created and now either is pumping into my tank or my soda bottles look like they're ready to explode. I will say - this has happened to me very rarely. I've seen my soda bottles build a lot of pressure before - but never bursted. So it's not the end of the world, just an unexpected inconvenience.

 

The other major con I have is refilling. Sure refilling doesn't take that long, empty the neutral baking soda/citric acid solution and add a the the right amounts of the new solutions in. But after doing it so many times - I'm kinda tired of it. I sometimes have extra soda bottles at the ready with the solutions and unscrew the old ones and pop in the new ones. Good plan, but still takes time and effort.

 

If you're careful not to shake the tubing of the pressure gauge, content with either having CO2 run 24/7 or manually turn it on and off AND are willing to periodically refill soda bottles, then I'd say give the DIY system a shot.

 

I chose the DIY setup when I first started the hobby and wasn't sure how dedicated I would be. Also - I didn't have a great paying job that would warrant me paying more for a convenient/foolproof CO2 setup.

 

Which brings me to what I plan on doing now. Now that I'm more interested in the hobby, I've decided to step my game up. For starters, I have a 75 gallon tank rigged up to a 20 lb CO2 tank that I have to refill every 3-4 months. I live by a small hydroponics shop that refills my CO2 tank for $20. I don't know if $20 is cheap, but the store is close, convenient and gets the job done. I also attached a $40 solenoid to it so I could connect it to a timer. This setup has been AWESOME. Very simple, and 100% reliable. I just take my empty 20 lb tank to the store and get it filled and plug it back into the solenoid.

 

Because my 20lb CO2 tank setup has been so successful in my 75 gallon, I've decided to do something similar for my 5 gallon. While a 20lb CO2 tank is complete overkill - there are pretty good alternatives out there. I've looked at using the Fluval 20G CO2 kit and using Threaded CO2 Bike Tire Cartridges. The diffuser that comes with the Fluval system is huge and I would never use it. So basically I'm paying $30 for a regulator that can't even easily attach to a solenoid. Also those 16g bike tire cartridges seem small and wasteful. So your costs are $30 for the setup and ~$30 for the CO2 cartridges - which who knows how long those last. The main benefit to this setup is that it's super small. This seems like a good setup for sure and was very close to going for it, but I've decided to go with something else.

 

I'm buying a 24 oz Paintball CO2 tank ($25) , a CGA 320 Adapter (CGA 320 is the size of the standard CO2 tank threading) ($10), and a regular solenoid ($40). The prices seem reasonable except for that CGA 320 adapter piece. $10 for a piece of metal. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the same piece at Home Depot or Lowe's and I'm also lazy. So I'd rather pay the $10 then figure out how to jerry-rig my own. The adapter allows the threading of a Paintball tank to connect with the threading of a standard CO2 solenoid. Considering the Fluval setup is $60, I'd say this $75 paintball setup is worth it - especially since it now has a solenoid! The main difference is CO2 refill. Dick's Sporting Goods (also local for me) refills 24oz paintball CO2 tanks for $5 and every 5th fill is free. I think 24 oz will last me a long time anyway. In any case - I think the main obstacle whether it is using a 20lb CO2 tank or using a 24oz Paintball tank is where you're going to get that CO2 filled. You can search for a local Airgas or like a place that sells/refills Fire Extinguishers. Bars use CO2 as well for beer - but you don't need food grade CO2, that's just overpaying.


 

I know I went a little overboard, but this is all information that I've recently researched and figured I'd share it. I can't comment on the performance on the paintball tank setup just yet, but I assume it will work fine.

 

TL;DR DIY systems are cheap and good, but not 100% reliable/consistent and must be manually turned on/off/. You may or may not marry a woman named Skyler White during the process. Major costs are $15 for DIY rig, $15 for a 5lb bag of Citric Acid. I'd recommend using a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank because they can attach to a solenoid and are reliable and consistent. Major costs are $25 for a 24oz Paintball Tank, $10 for a CGA 320 Adapter, a $40 solenoid. $5 fill ups at Dick's Sporting Goods.

This can be dealt with.

Here are a few options to consider. First, Zinc will help with the stink. You can take a Zinc supplement AND use a topical ointment on your feet. If you decide to take a Zinc supplement, don't take it everyday and be mindful of your copper levels. OptiZinc has copper included although you want to supplement even a little more. The ideal zinc-to-copper ratio is 10:1.

• Boudreaux's Butt Paste Maximum Strength Diaper Cream
  
  This works very well because it contains 40% Zinc. One of the highest you can find. I've used this on my feet with success and I've even used it on my face before to help with complexion issues and it never dried me out. I think using daily on your feet would be fine although I wouldn't recommend putting it on your face every day. You can find this in Walmart in the baby isle (where the Pedialyte is located). Start with a small amount and rub it in. A little goes a long way with this stuff, you don't want your feet feeling greasy all day.
  
  
• Crystal Body Deodorant Stick Deodorant
  
  I bought this because I was looking for safer deodorant options. I was amazed at how well it worked on my armpits (much better than traditional deodorants containing aluminum) and the upside for you is, it even specifically mentions being used on feet to treat foot odor. I haven't done that but I imagine it would working swimmingly.
  
  
• Nature's Way Chlorofresh
  
  
  This product is along the same lines as BodyMint, but much cheaper. It is typically used to deal with bad breath that originates from odor created in the gut, but it has also been used to treat general body odor as well. I recommend starting with the top 2 recommendations first but considering this can be tried for only ~$7, it may be worth just adding it to your odor fighting stack.
  
  
• 10-Seconds Deodorant & Disinfectant
  
  I was told this is the product that bowling alleys use to disinfect the bowling shoes. I bought a can sometime ago when I was running and wanted to keep my running shoes from getting rank. I can't find it right now but I seem to recall a warning about harmful/caustic chemicals coming into contact with skin so use this one carefully if you decide to try it. You should be disinfecting your shoes anyway since it sounds like your issue could be bacterial or fungal, seeing as it spreads so rapidly to new shoes.
  
  
• Drymax Run Hyper Thin No Show Socks
  
  I got these for running and I love them. They are super light and are made from a breathable mesh. The thicker your socks are, the more likely your feet are to get hot and begin sweating. These are a bit expensive but you can think of them as an investment that pays dividends.
  
  
• Mini Moso Natural Air Purifying Bag, Charcoal
  
  These are designed to naturally remove odor. I keep them in my shoes when they're just sitting in my closet. I assume they are working because my shoes don't stink. They are cheap and got good reviews on Amazon. Check 'em out.
  
  
  In conclusion
  
  I believe if you are washing your feet thoroughly, making sure your socks are clean and your feet have some Zinc ointment rubbed into them (or the crystal deodorant applied) and your shoes are properly disinfected and dry, I think you will see an appreciable reduction in foot funk if not a complete eradication.
  
  Good luck.
  
  

Hey there! First off, you might want to check out the sidebar which has a whole section on OCM.

No, you don't need to halt your whole routine in order to incorporate OCM into it. In fact, I follow a regimen pretty close to yours and use OCM every night.

Jojoba oil is usually pretty good for OCM because it very closely mimics the skin's natural oil. However, be careful because even though an oil might work really well for someone else doesn't mean it'll work well for you. Jojoba oil sadly broke me out--but give it a try because it might be great for your skin! I personally wouldn't recommend vitamin E oil because it's pretty comedogenic.

A good way to start off with OCM is to begin with plain mineral oil. It's basically baby oil without the fragrance. You can try using baby oil, but many people are sensitive to the fragrance. Lots of people like to use this brand. I personally just bought it myself as well!

If you're having trouble with acne, then mixing in tea tree oil or neem oil (which I think is amaaaazing) would really help. However, it's important to patch test these individually first to see if they mesh well with your skin.

I personally oil cleanse at night to take off all my makeup, and then follow up with a gentle cleanser. This is called double cleansing and it just helps make sure I get all the gunk out of my face.

I use this and like it OK. It doesn't break me out or anything, but once the bottle runs out I don't plan on re-buying it.

The hydrating cleanser should work all right for you, but if you're having problems with oiliness despite moisturizing well, you should try switching to the foaming. Also I use Neutrogena Clear Face sunscreen and like it a lot. It goes on nicely with only a little white cast.

You can get a Spin Clean which uses proper fluid (not soap) to clean your records and doesn't submerge the middle of your record and ruin it. It also includes microfiber towels and brushes to dry and also to get out any embedded dirt from grooves.

Or if you're cheap like me, you can just use microfiber cloths and anti-static spray like this and just spritz your microfiber towel/cloth with it like 2-3 times and give your record a quick wipe. Gets rid of any static that built up in the pressing process and taking your record out the first time, which 1) prevents it from picking stuff up and 2) gets any excess vinyl out of the grooves so you won't have any issues.

If you have a TON of money to blow, get a VPI machine, which is basically a bit like a mix of the Spin Clean or just some anti-static spray in that you wet the record with special fluid, spin it around on a special turntable while it's locked in, and then vacuum dry it. If you're lucky, places nearby may even have a machine. I have a shop where if I buy like $20 worth of stuff they clean a record for me for free or if I want, it's $1 a record to get cleaned and the results are amazing.

Hope that helps!

Hi - nothing ruined I bet - we've all been there. There is a product known as Purple Power, as well as some other brand names depending on your location, that you can soak your model in to remove the primer. Be very careful - it's a degreaser and it's safe for basic styrene but will take a toll on your skin. ;) Soak the painted model for several hours - most if not all of the paint will be removed and you can start again. You may not need to remove all the existing primer, just enough to get a good smooth new coat on. There may be other products or methods out there, I bet you get a lot of helpful replies - you might try google as well. Good luck!! Post up when you've finished the model! :)

https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O

​

There may be other products or methods out there - you might try google.

For the mineral oil I buy it by the gallon off amazon but any food grade mineral oil is pretty much the same, just make sure it's not scented.

I buy the beeswax locally at a farmer's market but any food grade pure beeswax should work fine.

The oil you linked is just mineral oil with a little bit of beeswax and some vitamin E oil. It's pretty much exactly the same as what I described just with a low ratio of beeswax, probably something like 1:6 or 1:10. Perfectly fine to apply a board butter over it.

| Price/Months | Cost | Notes
---|---|----|----
Mineral Oil | $18/48 | $0.37
Sugar Scrub | $3.50/2 | $1.75 | Stock up during sales
AHA Liquid | $40/24 | $1.67 | $23 on Amazon
Tretinoin | $50/8 | $6.25 | Out of pocket
BP Cream | $8/3 | $2.67 | Stock up during sales
CeraVe SA | $15/6 | $2.50 | Stock up during sales
Sunscreen | $12/3 | $4.00 |
Vaseline | $4/forever | ~~~~ | Negligible
| Total: | **$19.21**

This is with perfect application; the real cost is probably significantly lower since I frequently skip steps and/or days.

I have a few other things like Stridex pads, Aztec clay and Pond's cream that I sometimes use, but they're just casualties from previous trial and error, so they're not really part of the routine.

The Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Toner feels like the most frivolous expense, but it works amazingly well and lasts forever since I put it directly on my face using a tiny bottle instead of wasting 3/4 of it into a cotton pad. Also, lesson learned: don't buy anything from Sephora unless you're in there for the service and/or enjoy flushing money down the toilet LOL.

Hopefully once I'm in the military they'll put me on Accutane and then I can be done with most of this nonsense, but until then this routine keeps me radiant and 100% acne free and as long as I have the patience to actually do it...

Healthy cats typically do not pee on carpet. So before you do anything else they need to see a vet and rule out anything medical. If it is a behavioural problem you can try out the following:

• Make sure you have more litterboxes than you have cats
  
  
• Spread the litterboxes out through the house
  
  
• Try different kinds of litter (clay, walnut, wheat etc.); put a different kind in each box and see what they prefer
  
  
• Make sure all of the boxes are uncovered
  
  
• Make sure all boxes get cleaned out every day
  
  
• Try a litter with attractants
  
  Prevention is much easier than cleanup. To get the smell out of the carpet you can use an enzyme cleaner (you can get it at the pet store). You can also try a product like this, they also have a pet specific kind, either one will work well. Also make sure to clean up the walls, even if you can't see it there is probably pee on more than just the ground.
  
  Edit: Once you get the using the boxes properly I would just invest some money in having the carpets steam cleaned, you can even just rent a small machine and do it yourself to save on the cost.

I found Essential Depot on Amazon, free shipping with Prime makes it seem more reasonable. Silly question, but with Palm Oil I was told it had to be warmed up in the original container... How can you tell if the container can benuked in a microwave? It doesn't say microwave safe on the Amazon site. (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EDBEZM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3V9M1NOX9PQ89&coliid=I1XGC0BKGY2U8V)

I noticed the molds around between $50-100, is that normal? Seems rather extravagant to me.

The local chemical factory is a great idea! I have no idea if there is one near me, but still.. Major kudos on creativity.

I use mineral oil. This brand, to be specific.

I used to use a water-soluble oil cleanser that I looooved. When I figured out I had/have fungal acne I had to upheave my routine. Mineral oil does not feed/exacerbate the issue. However, it also does not rinse off like my previous cleanser (which was One Love Organics Vitamin B Cleansing Oil). To successfully remove the mineral oil layer I use a hot washcloth every night. It's actually my favorite part of getting ready for bed, now. The feeling is really nice. Afterwards I refresh with a hydrating spritzer and it's wonderful.

I'm curious to see how others in this sub wash and dry microfiber towels, drying microfiber towels (the ones that hold crazy amounts of water), and wash mitts. I usually just throw my normal microfiber towels in the washer with the appropriate detergent & dry them with low heat. But I am wondering if anyone has experience washing & drying the microfiber towels which hold very large amounts of water. I’m referring to towels such as The Double TWISTRESS & the PFM Terry Weave Drying Towel. These can hold several pounds of water. I’ve just purchased these types of towels & I am wondering do you folks just throw them in alongside the other normal microfiber towels?

Regarding the wash mitts, I usually throw mine in with the microfiber towels, but I have a specific wash mitt that I use just for the wheels. Is it safe to also throw this in with my other microfiber laundry load, or is there a risk here of contaminating everything else?

Lastly, on a slightly unrelated note, does anyone have a tip for how to clean dirty wheels/rims? I just purchased a specific wheel wash (AMMO Brute Wheel Soap), I was earlier using Optimum Car Wash. Using that, even with the Mother’s Wheel Brush & boar hair detailing brushes, I could never really get them 100% clean. I am hoping the new wheel soap helps. I also tried using Chemical Guys Premium Wheel Cleaner, but it comes out in such thick globs I can barely get even coverage. I want to try applying Gelee Wheel Protectant, but I am afraid to apply it since my wheels never get fully clean. Not only can I see the dust & grime, I can pick it up with microfiber towels.

Anyway, thanks for reading and thanks ahead of time for the help!

So sorry you have to quit smoking, ugh, that's horrible! I thought I was the only one on this sub that smoked, glad to see I'm not alone :)


Mary Jane and I have been best friends for about 15 years now, I don't know what I'd do without her sometimes. She always knows how to make me feel better, almost instantly, and is always there when I need her most. From the time I wake up, until the time I go to bed, she's there. She actually motivates me to do things and when she's gone, I'm just a lump that doesn't want to do anything.


I am in desperate need of Formula 420 Cleaner, I ran out a while ago and haven't gotten anymore yet. It's actually $10.70...I see you have it bolded that it shouldn't be over $10. Please forgive me, this is all that was on my list that is paraphernalia related. EDIT: I also found these wonderful socks on my list, but they are $10.49...lol, wtf


Thanks for the super awesome contest :) Je suis ananas (what does that mean?) (aw, just saw this was closed lol)

Awesome! Don’t be shy to share some pics!

If you’re not using it already, the [Pledge Floor Gloss](Pledge Floor Finish Gloss 27 Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YC438C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) definitely helps a lot for the dotting step so it’s worth tracking some down. As I mentioned in one of my replies above, the only way I can tell which of the models were painted with the catgutt wash recipe vs. GW Skeleton Horde is by looking at the dots. The first 5 I painted were without the floor gloss and the dots are not as neat because I was basically trying to paint them on vs. depositing a small bead onto the model.

If you can’t get that stuff where you are, I think you would get similar results using [Acrylic Flow Improver](Winsor & Newton Professional... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060KRGQA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share).

Let me know if I can be of any help as you paint yours up. Catgutt has been really helpful to me and I’m happy to pay it forward!

Do you have a wax on your car? I use Griots garage brilliant finish in my foam cannon, and optimum car wash in my 2 bucket. The Griots garage is pretty good, especially since you can get it at Autozone and places like that. The optimum stuff tho is incredible, and it isn't expensive. It super smooth when you use it and leaves your car super glossy. I've used the Chemical Guys soaps (honeydew and citrus wash gloss) and I wasn't impressed with either. After I wash with optimum, I dry with duragloss Aquawax. It literally requires no extra effort and adds another layer on top of whatever you have. You just spray it on while you dry (the car it still wet) and it leaves your car glossy and it makes it bead even more. It's pretty cheap also.

Optimum Car wash:
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-CW2006Q-Car-Wash-oz/dp/B00BFUG3EG

aquawax:
https://www.amazon.com/Duragloss-951-Automotive-Aquawax-oz/dp/B002W0YBWE

Reviews for aquawax:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/77697-duragloss-aquawax-real-deal.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052V1JA2/ref=psdc_10802561_t2_B07K1ZD36P

I don't know how this stuff works. But this is the best glass cleaner I've ever used. I use it on phones, tablets, and monitors with great success. Pretty cheap too.

I agree. For all people to accept encapsulation, the highest priority is visibility. For my slabs, I use clear 3x4 inch plastic bags, so all the handling damage happens to the bag, not the slab. Then, when it's too scratched to satisfy me, I simply replace it. Here's a fairly comprehensive link to all the info you need to get the right bags:

• Where to find recloseable bags for slabs?
  
  There are ways to polish the slab plastic to get the scratches out. Meguiar's plastic polish is one way. Search around and I'm sure you can find other suggestions for ways to polish the slab plastic. Then, when it's done, put it in a clear bag instead of handling it directly.
  
  Check out ggoodluck2013's (new, ending, sold) listings on ebay. He almost always has something in stock that has the coins embedded in clear Lucite.

Coconut oil is known to clog pores in a lot of people. Were you double cleansing or just oil cleansing?

The Paula's choice one has vitamin e and coconut oil, both of which can clog pores, it also has a lot of added ingredients.

If you are okay with using one that doesn't emulsify (rinse off with water) then mineral oil or squalane is good. You could use this before a regular milk or foaming cleanser at night.

https://www.amazon.ca/Snow-River-32-Ounce-Wood-Oil/dp/B00280MY7M

^mineral oil

If you're familiar with the ordinary, they have cheap squalane. I've never used an already made oil cleanser because my skin is very sensitive but if you search up oil cleansers on this sub, I'm sure there are some recommendations.

You would have to use something like a warm, wet microfiber towel to take the oil off before using your second cleanser if it doesn't rinse off. I use any clean cotton t shirt I don't mind staining. I would only do this in the pm.

So I took the recipe a mixture from here (for core recipe) and here (for some advice on technique).

The recipe I used was this:

• 3 cups of bread flour
  
• 1 cup of tap water
  
• 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter (slightly melted)
  
• 1/2 tablespoon of dark brown sugar
  
• 1.75 tablespoons of kosher salt
  
• 1/2 tablespoon of instant active yeast
  
• 1/8 cup of food grade lye (I used this) + 2 cups of water
  
  
  Some thoughts about the process:
  
  
• I don't have a food processor/mixer, so I had to knead the dough by hand. As a result, the dough was not very stretchy, which made it pretty hard to achieve ideal Philly soft pretzel shape.
  
• With regards to the shape, I really need to work on my technique. I feel like defaulting to normal pretzel shape comes more naturally. Any tips here?
  
• Very happy with how the taste turned out. The dough was really good, and the lye provided the perfect golden brownness.
  
• Handling lye sounds scary but it's really not that bad. I used a plastic bowl in an empty sink. And I made sure to carefully use gloves the entire time. Still, if you decide to use lye, proceed with caution. I don't really plan to use baking soda, since no legit bakery I know uses this method.
  
• I accidentally forgot to set a timer when I put the pretzels in the oven, so half of them came out a little dark. Actually kind of glad this happened, because they didn't burn but achieved more of a dark pretzel-type flavor.

Twist and pull up on the heating cover to gently remove it. Soak the heating cover in rubbing alcohol. You can use things like formula 420 but rubbing alcohol simply works for glass pieces.

Just blow out the loose stuff from the bottom of the DBV. If there is material stuck to the actual heating element, do what I did. Soak a q-tip in rubbing alcohol and gently clean it off. You can also use the alcohol-soaked q-tip to spot clean the heating cover but be advised-I soaked mine for a day after a similar incident, and although it was way cleaner, the clear glass heater cover is still lightly stained.

Obviously the DBV should be off and cooled down before doing any of this. Good luck

I enjoy Collinite 845, Optimum soap, drying aid, for my dash, doors interior, and vinyl on the outside , wash mitt , drying towel , interior and exterior microfibers great for buffing wax and dust on the interior. And if you want that shine and to keep the integrity of your clear coat I would wax every couple months, depending the quality of the wax you decide to go with.

Soap is a lipophile and works decently for most oils, but if you have a significant amount of it or a stubborn stain, I have used Lestoil. It works for a lot of different stains and is great for things that have set in. Use the hottest temperature water that the garmet can take in the wash cycle. Good Luck with it!

Lestoil!


Gets out grease stains better than anything I've ever tried. I always get nervous because the product itself feels oily, so I think I'm just making things worse, but once you throw it in the washer or sink, the spots come out like magic. Great for food stains like salad dressing or bacon splatters!

Obligatory shout out to my mom for introducing me to this wonder product.

Any car wax can work. I've had good luck with this: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34

Just apply it like car wax, let it dry, and wipe clean with a clean soft cloth.

These are the wax sticks I tried:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073WJTNH5/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It helped a bit but is still very noticeable.

​

If it helps, the scratch did create a bit of a lip on each side.

​

Any suggestions are appreciated!

Sure. First I used paint in a rattle can from https://www.automotivetouchup.com/. You can put your paint code in and get an exact match. My bay used 1 can of red primer for some of the bare spots I did some metal work on. I used 5 cans of base coat and 4 cans of their high gloss clear. To prep the bay, I pulled everything out I could. Engine was already out. I power washed it. Sprayed it with scrubbing bubbles. The power washed again. I used 3M 07777 scuff pads to take the shine off the previous paint. The entire bay. Then compressed air to get rid of the dust. Finally washing it down with with Sprayaway glass cleaner. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052V1JA2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The glass cleaner sounds strange, but this is what one of my friends uses and paints vehicles on a regular basis and it works. Finally mask literally everything off. I used 7 sheets of plastic drop sheets from Lowes to encase the front of the car from the rest of the garage and started laying base coat. No real technique other than the directions on the can. I let it dry for a day and did clear the following day.

The clear coat is a bit more tricky. You have to get the right distance to get it smooth, otherwise it will be foggy or rough. This took a couple tries to get used to and my bay is not perfect. There are 2 spots in the upper left and right corners at the firewall that are rough. But those are going to be covered up by various parts anyway.

Hope this is helpful. Even the rattle can paint sounded questionable until I saw someone else do it on instagram with similar results before I did mine. Id do it again if I had it. I just hope it holds up.

I bought a giant jug of it off Amazon. I also bought some beeswax pellets. I usually condition with just the mineral oil, but every now and then I'll instead use the 'board butter' I made (melt beeswax and mix in mineral oil, allow to cool). Total cost was about $35 but I now have a fuckton of mineral oil and board butter.

Beeswax

Mineral Oil

Also, this stuff is great for other wooden utensils or dishes you might have in your kitchen, such as knife handles, spoons, and salad bowls. Mineral oil also doesn't go rancid, unlike olive oil or coconut oil.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: this


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Germany|www.amazon.de||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

Not OP, but Barkeeper's friend is a miracle product for otherwise completely destroyed stainless steel cookware.

Barkeeper's Friend Powder Cleanser, 21 oz-2 pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EN9XUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z3SlzbFBCFYDY

One source. Look for Pledge or Johnson’s product that has terms like future floor care, floor care with future shine, etc. Here in the US it is about $5-7 USD in most stores in the floor care aisle. I got some in the UK that was a tad cloudy, but it dried just as clear. I forget the name...

The original name, back in the 70’s, was Future. We all call it that today who were introduced to its features then.

It's just called glass cleaner. My company distributes it themselves but I've noticed that other windshield replacement companies have their own stuff too which is the exact same. I've also seen it at just about every car dealership. Not sure if they're for sale but it is absolutely amazing.

I just looked it up online and this looks like the same stuff

Why? Do you rub your fingers on the screen often? :-)

Smitty's Glass Wax might do well but not 100% sure it's safe for bare (matte) flatscreens — I'd guess it is — nor if it might leave things a little shiny.

Works great on glossy touchscreens and sometimes on glasses though I've found it's more of a pain than it's worth to use on optical lenses more than occasionally. Does seem to cut down on fingerprints etc and make fingers glide better for a while.

I think the mineral oil I got is pretty safe. It's Food Grade Mineral Oil it can be safely used on you skin. Also most baby oils are basically just mineral oil so I think not all mineral oils are carcinogen or harmful.

I get zero residue on my dishes. The recipe I use calls for citric acid, which really helps to get rid of that residue. I bought a giant bag of it on Amazon for pretty cheap, though honestly I didn't need to buy that much - the recipe I have only calls for 1/2 cup at a time, and each recipe lasts for several months.

I had good luck with Meguiar's plastic polish. I did it by hand but if you've got a rotary or orbital tool you can save yourself a lot of arm strain. This reminds me I've got a before and after shot here.

I went through 2 that I found out were cheap chinese knocks offs. Heres the good you get with pax:

Company behind it is actually reliable and consumer friendly. All this weed/vape shit is still the wild west. Pax stands as a company that has actual customer service and a well designed website that sells replacement parts.

Sleek looking as fuck and well built. Seriously, if someone you don't want knowing you smoke weed sees this they are more likely to think portable battery than vaporizer.

It does its job well and reliably. Not much more to ask for.

With that said if you get one get this pack(or something similar with good reviews) https://www.amazon.com/Jianuo-Adjustable-Sandwich-Pusher-Bottom/dp/B07C7RLWF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1541730768&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pax+2&dpPl=1&dpID=41fnvMi-VlL&ref=plSrch

Its literally night and day.

Just a heads up - you have to get rid of the referral portion of that Amazon link. Against sub rules. You can format Amazon links by typing http://amzn.com/###### where ###### is the ASIN (found in the product description). Your link should look like http://amzn.com/B073WJTNH5

Great product, though. I've used those touchup markers in the past.

Keep that glass feeling like new! But seriously, this stuff is the shiznit. It makes all my glass surfaces feel like I just took off the first screen protector.

Edit: My phone has been totally naked (save for a case to protect it from drunk me on the weekend) since I got it in March. One impossible to notice scratch. Overjoyed with the quality.

https://www.amazon.com/Emmets-H2372-1-Quintol-Stuff-Finish/dp/B0000DD2S2

I've had great success with this

Yes, I exclusively use the sandwich pusher. Provides enhanced vape and what feels like an even heat distribution -bud gets used up well and increases the amount of draws. I average ~25 per with it.

HEre's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7RLWF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also suggest the carrying case. Yoda travels well with minimal oder. Link for that, too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KQOAJKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the Case is a bit pricey but it has a top compartment that can hold ~5 grams bud and it's a solid construction, meaning it will last me quite a while so it's worth the extra bucks.

For sure. Ospho takes the gloss out of your topside paint and makes it all chalky, which makes the soot from your stacks stick even better. This doesn't take the gloss out, but we only use it on rust streaks, not general cleaning. For general wash-down, check out Purple Power. This stuff is so much better than CitruClean, Simple Green, or Ospho. It wasn't on our approved list of chemicals for the longest time but we would buy it with our own money and bring it to work. Pro-tip: finish your wash down with some of that spray-on/rinse-off wax like they use in the carwash, and you won't have to work nearly so hard next time. My last boat was 130' long and we had a crew of 4. That's a lot of boat to clean.

Lestoil is pretty great for laundering greasy things!

I've had really good experiences using (food grade!) lye instead of baking soda. It sounds weird, but if you're getting into pretzels, give this recipe a try sometime. These are delicious.

Strange ingredients you need:

• Food grade lye
  
• Pretzel salt (compressed crystals!)
  
• Malt syrup
  
• Lard
  
  Be very careful when using the lye. Rubber gloves, eye protection.
  
  

Get a belt sander and some low grit for the flat surfaces. Have one of these for the detail work: Triangle Scraper

And sometimes good old fashioned NaOH for the older paints AKA Lye worked the best on our base layers of paint, which we thought might be milk paint.

God speed.

Thanks for the comment. I want it to be one uniform color and not be able to notice the epoxy whatsoever, though. I was thinking of getting some wood-colored markers like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WJTNH5/

Then, match the color a little better before another coat of stain. Would that work?

We need more of these types of do-it-yourself tips, thank you!

More details with a list of materials and links (Amazon?) please :-).

I might have tried Bar Keepers Friend :-).

https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-21-Ounces/dp/B008EN9XUI/

After you finish building and doing the primary paint, put on a coat of Future (that is the brand)- it will be shiny, but this will help protect the model and let you decal and weather it easier. After you get the decals on and your weathering (including panel lines), you can go shiny with another coat of Future, or go matte (normal) with a spray matte finish ($few at your local model store, or here is the one I like).

I also use the Snow River Mineral Oil and I order it off of Amazon. It's perfect for makeup removal and OCM! :)

Haven't used this myself yet, but I remember someone in a different post mentioned Smitty's Glass Wax as working pretty well. Smittys Glass Wax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N1P3GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qXeeAbEA60958

There are wood markers like this that would work. I found that usually more than one marker color blends best.

https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Repair-Kit-Wood-Markers/dp/B073WJTNH5/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-d29vZCBtYXJrZXJz-ac_d_rm&keywords=wood+markers&pd_rd_i=B073WJTNH5&pd_rd_r=ddaaa8ad-a040-4b21-a81b-7a2e9e4417d7&pd_rd_w=HTu6g&pd_rd_wg=2sJbk&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=6BWJ8HZXZPJ3QC8BY7W0&qid=1567301480&s=gateway

Do not get the half pack lid! What is way better is a pusher. You can adjust it to any amount of weed. Also it being flat is way better than the curvature of the stock lids. I think the curvature packs the weed so it doesn't allow any airflow.

I've been accused of being a shill on here hired by pax or an amazon seller to push these products. In response to that I say, keep using your shitty half pack lids you imbeciles while I get like 50% more efficiency with my mods of the vented lid and pusher combo! Puff it bitches! But yeah the bottom metal block that replaces the screen makes for a good thermal mass that vapes better.

https://www.amazon.com/Jianuo-Adjustable-Sandwich-Pusher-Bottom/dp/B07C7RLWF4

Oleophobic coating definitely wore off on my s8+ as well as my note 8. Bought a glass wax (Smittys Glass Wax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N1P3GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_726RAbSGKDHXM which brings back that slick feel again. Upside is it only takes a few drops per application. Downside is the coating seems to only last around 3 days.

Am curious if there is a more permanent solution.

I've worked with Zebrawood and typically use Teak oil to finish it. It's an incredibly durable finish that's both UV resistant and water resistant. My application is intended for outdoor use though so no one is eating off of the finished product.

That said, I'm not 100% sure if it's a food safe finish and I'd actually err to the side of caution here. Someone else might be able to chime in. I've heard good things about Emmet's as well as pure (or slightly watered down) tung oil.

Barkeepers Friend: Bar Keepers Friend Powdered Cleanser 21-Ounces (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EN9XUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pZiADbGKDFJQZ

Just saw this pop up on Slickdeals. Citric acid, which a lot of people have been recommending around here for hard water to help build a better lather. I can't comment on its effectiveness since I've never bothered to try it, but figured I'd throw it up on here in case anyone is interested, since it's apparently .30 cheaper than last time it went frontpage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OZFECU/

Bar Keepers Friend Powdered Cleanser 21-Ounces (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EN9XUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Da4kDbFFAS8JD

Helps clean the exhaust tips

I put this on a carpet that had a lot more than 2 liters of water because it was still smelling funny and to take care of the remaining moisture. http://www.amazon.com/Arm-Hammer-Odor-Elminator-Carpet/dp/B0014B36HS

I really need some citric acid to finally start making bath bombs, but I'm afraid that it's too expensive (around $20) so I also need these storage containers for making yummy lip balms.

Always had good luck with this stuff. It was used by a dealership I worked at to detail cars.

Side note, something like this would probably help make your entertainment center look a bit more polished, as well as some cable management: https://smile.amazon.com/Furniture-Repair-Kit-Wood-Markers/dp/B073WJTNH5?sa-no-redirect=1

I've used something similar to this on some cherry wood before and was very pleased with the results. They're not PERFECT but you'd have to get up close to notice.

Cool, thanks! This? http://www.amazon.com/Emmets-H2372-1-Quintol-Stuff-Finish/dp/B0000DD2S2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7RLWF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_vND2CbCY3R54F

Best $10 I have spent in a while!

Find yourself a product called Emmet's Good Stuff Wood Finish, can be found here This is some of the best finish for butcher blocks I Have been making blocks for about 8 years made hundreds of them and this is the only thing I use.

Gorgeous! You should get a set of those furniture markers and color in those nicks, it'll look brand new. I say that because I just got a set of them and have been having so much fun tidying up all my wood furniture.

Just get some 420 Cleaner. The stuff works like a charm.

Future floor finish is the best way. Paint a little on the joint and it evens itself out into the crevices and tightens it up. Plus it can be removed if you end up with too much in the joint.

Pledge Floor Polish

It doesn't look or feel as nice because the factory-applied oleophobic (oil repelling) coating wears off over time. I just tried this stuff and so far I love it. It cleaned the screen and restored the slickness that makes new phones so nice.

Can someone recommend a disinfectant that would be effective, yet "safe" to use in shoe insoles & linings? Something more powerful than just vinegar and water, but without harmful solvents? Common products, such as Lysol and this shoe disinfectant contain alcohol.

Maybe try this? Worked great on our carpets.

You should be able to find a vinyl polish at the auto parts stores, follow directions on the bottle and test a corner first like it probably tells you to.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

Something like that.

I am looking for a natural oil finish and I want to avoid toxic substances and fumes. I tried food grade white mineral oil but the surface is still greasy a week later (its possible i did not put it on correctly). I saw some forum posts that people claimed its because mineral oil is a non-drying oil and it will always feel that way. So far this is what I have come up with Tried & True Oil and Walrus Oil has anyone used either of these or have other suggestions?

I am in the Facilities Maintenance department and I fully support and back this post and all recommendations. It's true and accurate on every level. Mainly on keeping the equipment clean and our kitchen staff often forgets UNDER and BACK of the equipment which includes the floor drains, so keep them clean and clear. The kitchens I work with are about 18 months old and all the equipment new for several kitchens but into operation or about 10+ years into use for several other kitchens, so this has been a challenge for the organization I work for and the team that I am on.

I done near freaked out when seeing a new dishy squeegee a bunch of scraps at the Hobart into the floor drain. You want fruit flies? Because that's how you get fruit flies. And clogs. Use a enzyme treatment on a regular basis if you have floor drains to keep them clean and clear of clogs.

This also avoids any rank odor to emit from the drains and/or the respective grease trap(s).

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=bioclean+drain+cleaner&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=7971424659&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15174809577464155145&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_6ejvbxtwdb_b

Also, a product called "Purple Power" which can be bought at Amazon or Walmart is what our staff and even our hood/panels/exhaust/fan steam cleaning vendor uses.

I introduced it to the kitchen staff only after supervising a hood cleaning and grime/grease covered hoods went with one swipe to being sparkly shiny stainless steel. Notable difference. It's concentrated so you can water it down and dilute for daily use, but more concentrated when doing a full major cleaning. If it's thick gunk, let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes to let it penetrate at full concentration. Then simply wipe off with a cloth towel.

Periodic power washing also helps if you have a dishy trained to do so if you can't hire a full time kitchen maintenance person.

http://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O

I can't tell you how many times the Sous will call me about "Shit's Broke" when most of the time it's because shit isn't kept clean. If you don't have any manuals for your larger equipment, especially Hobarts and other dishwashing machines, get one and follow the manual as to daily operations and cleaning. It takes time, but in the long term the extra time and payroll will keep shit operating when you need it to, especially during weekend rushes, and save a ton in the long run when your equipment is down and the out the ass money it costs to replace parts and the labor when calling in a vendor. Especially when it's an emergency call and the tech is charging time and a half for the OT.

Edit: If you can hire a dedicated person, make sure they know how to repair Walk in coolers and other refrigeration needs. Shooting in some fre-on doesn't always repair a fucked up compressor. Considering how vital it is to keep product at the right temperatures, this is a required skill.

Edit 2: words

Edit 3: Wanted to note that the under and behind can be done once a month or every two weeks contingent on volume and schedule. Doesn't have to be every night. Just don' let that grimey grease shit build up. If you do let it build up, it costs more in time and money (worse than that, down time during peak rush) than keeping shit clean via preventative maintenance.

Amazon sells it, and it's pretty cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Grade-Sodium-Hydroxide-Micro-Beads/dp/B001EDBEZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381245711&sr=8-1&keywords=cooking+lye

Amazon.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EDBEZM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the tips!

I've been using this on my lights and rear window (convertible). It's fantastic!

I would try soaking them in a degreaser solution like Purple Power or something similar that isn't solvent based.

Something solvent-based might react with the balls' polymers.

Super late to this, but you can buy sanitizing spray similar to what bowling alleys use.

I bought this one and I guess it worked just fine.

get some Bon Ami powder cleaner or Bar Keepers Friend. Use with lots of water and see if that will take it off. It MUST be one of those two. DO NOT USE COMET OR ANY OTHER POWDERED CLEANER IT WILL SCRATCH YOUR GLASS. You can find it at Walmart or Target or any major retailer.

Barkeeper's Friend, this stuff is a life saver!

https://www.amazon.com/Barkeepers-Friend-Powder-Cleanser-oz-2/dp/B008EN9XUI/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1495302948&sr=8-2&keywords=bartenders+friend

tho either way if you do decide on getting one i recommenf either getting these or this b/c the filters they come with are not that good. personally i got the plate one and that works just fine. tho the capsules are nice just for convenience.

https://smile.amazon.com/Smittys-Glass-Wax-Blister-Pack/dp/B004N1P3GI

I've used this for a long time. It feels similar to oleophobic but only lasts a month or two with regular use. That being said you get tons of applications out of one bottle and it takes like 2 minutes to do.

If you're confident in yourself, use lye. You can see there difference in post from a while back.

Lestoil is your friend. Will take those stains right out. Will also remove ink, chapstick, and candle wax.

10-Seconds Shoe Deodorizer and Disinfectant - The Only EPA-Approved Shoe Disinfectant effective against Bacteria, Fungus, Mold, and Mildew https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QCOF1M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I've used this https://www.amazon.com/Endust-Electronics-Anti-Static-Cleaning-097000/dp/B00005T3Z7 before.

I just spritz a little on a lint free cloth and wipe down the surfaces.

I shouldn't have to tell you not to spray it on components should i?

Same. Except I got mine from amazon. I wonder if I can use the original screen with this one laid over it ?



Jianuo Adjustable Sandwich Pusher and 3D Bottom Screen for pax2 & pax 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7RLWF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_FUD3BbM9GRE13

Just making sure as I'm looking to buy it now, is this the stuff you're talking about? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B002HU5N4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467397544&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=purple+power&dpPl=1&dpID=513n07SB5AL&ref=plSrch

Also how would I dilute it, just with water? If so, how much should I dilute it? Sorry about the questions I'm very new to this stuff

It is super cheap, but any way you do it, you're going to need a lot of acid. You could probably just make a smaller amount and just use a ladle or something to make sure all surfaces stay wet

Is it safe to vaccuum up carpet deodorizer with my Miele S8? I was looking at this stuff.

Home Depot, at least in California doesn't sell 100% lye. Lowe's and Ace Hardware do though. Better to get it online, much cheaper.

I really like 303 Fabric Guard
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY69N/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Put some of this ok the carpet and wait ten minutes then vacuum.

Arm & Hammer Odor Eliminator for Carpet & Room 30 oz (850 g) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014B36HS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ehMBwbSVQHRRA

Do all laundry. Including sheets. FeBreeze the snot out of mattress and couch. TAKE OUT THE TRASH. Clean your sink tub and toilet with bleach.

> You put lemon juice and/or 'Fruit Fresh' (powdered citric acid

...or if you're like me, you buy a 5lb bag of citric acid powder ridiculously cheap and then get Looks of Disapproval from the wife because now we have a 5lb bag of citric acid taking up cabinet space. But it was so cheap!

There are shoe disinfectant sprays, if you were okay with buying something. About $10 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/10-Seconds-Shoe-Deodorizer-Disinfectant-EPA-Approved/dp/B000QCOF1M

Need this for my computer cleaning needs

Thank you for your service.

I tried that with my piece and it didn't do anything for it. Look for Formula 420 at amazon. Here is a link for you. I was recommended this by a fellow Redditor. (Link is from cell phone)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001FV8X70/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/184-5361085-5795953

Yeah. I'm currently using the Lysol deodorizer/disinfectant spray.

Normally I use 10-seconds shoe spray. [Amazon]

currently i only have "good stuff" so this one may be for indoors.
Would i be able to add the spar urethane over the top?

find yourself some barkeepers friend

get about a teaspoon of powder with an equal amount of water and make a paste. Work it into the burn marks and leave it overnight. should loosen it up really good.

Alternatively you could use some steel wool and elbow grease, but that might scrape off your nonstick coating.

I sprinkle a little Gold Bond Extra strength medicated foot powder inside my lifting shoes when I take them off. Seems to be working.

Warning, keep this powder away from your junk.

I guess this spray could also work?

$1.97 for 7.5 oz is $4.02/lb.

If you wanted to buy from Amazon you can get 5lbs @ $2.98/lb and not have to worry about finding it in stock.

(not trying to criticize you - just wanted to provide a link that may be helpful to others)

Try a headlight cleaning kit.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY


OR Meguiars plastic cleaner and polish
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34

Considering citric acid is in citrus fruits you could likely just use lemon juice. A small enough concentration that it won't affect the taste.

Or you could buy a 5lb bag of citric acid in powder form from Amazon and dilute it yourself. http://www.amazon.com/Spicy-World-Citric-Acid-5-Pound/dp/B000OZFECU

If you ever end up with some infuriating scratches on your epoxy countertop you can polish it out.

https://www.novuspolish.com/ -or- https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34/

I do a lot of work with plastic, especially epoxy. And both of those product lines are great choices.

You can buy citric acid on Amazon and coat anything* to become a 'sour' verison.



^^^*Don't ^^^put ^^^it ^^^on ^^^or ^^^in ^^^your ^^^penis

Why do you need lye?

If you want it for pretzels, you have to use "food grade" lye, you don't use laboratory sodium hydroxide.

http://www.amazon.com/Grade-Sodium-Hydroxide-Micro-Beads/dp/B001EDBEZM

There's no paint job I've not been able to get back down to the metal or plastic with Purple Power. At most I'll have to brush it a couple of minutes with an old toothbrush.

https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O

You can find this at automotive stores like Auto Zone or O'Reilly's.

I know a crusty ole goat who has spent more time in tents than most people spend in a house. He swears by this. https://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30616-Fabric-Repellant/dp/B0000AY69N

I use a product called Lestoil, I've only had one shirt that it couldn't get clean, and that was mostly because I wasn't willing to put that much work into that old of a shirt. It's not cheap, but like I said I've never had it fail me.

Lestoil

This is what your using on your face?

Plastic bag over the the alternator. Then I gave the whole engine a quick rinse with a hose. Then I soaked the whole thing in this and let it sit for a few minutes. Then I scrubbed everything with a few different brushes and rinsed it off. Dried everything with compressed air and dressed it up with this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QCOF1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FvHhAbQ94A6EV

http://www.amazon.com/Spicy-World-Citric-Acid-5-Pound/dp/B000OZFECU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397684913&sr=8-1&keywords=citric+acid

http://www.amazon.com/Grade-Sodium-Hydroxide-Micro-Beads/dp/B001EDBEZM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1356213606&sr=8-2&keywords=lye

https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Repair-Kit-Wood-Markers/dp/B073WJTNH5/ref=pd_aw_fbt_79_img_3/144-2581927-8156301?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073WJTNH5&pd_rd_r=8978aceb-0cae-406a-b1cd-3c285e2b4aef&pd_rd_w=OrcmB&pd_rd_wg=CmJBX&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=4WRMPY5DDAV2JSD35WV2&psc=1&refRID=4WRMPY5DDAV2JSD35WV2

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34

MEGUIARS #10 and #17

new bottles, same stuff.

For anybody wanting to do this.

US: https://www.amazon.com/Drain-Cleaner-Opener-Sodium-Hydroxide/dp/B001EDBEZM/

Canada: https://www.purearome.com/fr/produit/soude-caustique-naoh

Mix about 100-150g/L in a plastic container, put in your light, and watch it.

[$24.10/gal, food grade mineral oil](UltraSource 501333 Food Grade Mineral Oil, NSF, 1 gal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNI1JI0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_EaW3wbW6M47GC.)

Never used it, but maybe this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002VAZ34

try this

Essential Depot Pure Lye Drain... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EDBEZM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

two pack

http://www.amazon.com/Grade-Sodium-Hydroxide-Micro-Beads/dp/B001EDBEZM

way way way overpriced https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNI1JI0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I use:

amazon.com/gp/product/B008EN9XUI

On the rare occasion that I thrift shoes, I hit them with some of this.

I just got some Smitty's Glass Wax. So far, it's helped keep fingerprint smudging down.

This is the brand/where I get mine from

This is what I got. I still have so much left over https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EDBEZM/

That'll work. Or Barkeeper's Friend.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YC438C/ref=mp_s_a_1_8_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1521409024&sr=8-8&keywords=pledge+floor+care+finish




This is it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EDBEZM/
I've had it for 5 yrs, and I'm maybe halfway through it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OZFECU/

I use all 303 products on my interior bits :

UV Protector:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30218-Automotive-Conditioner-Protectant/dp/B0185PU34O/

Leather Cleaner:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Automotive-Protectant-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/

Seat Cloth:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30616-Fabric-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B0000AY69N/

Even with this my driver side left leg-bolster is showing quite a bit of wear in 7k miles/10 months. All the leather in the car has a nice matte-finish but that bolster is very shiny and the texture has almost worn completely away from getting in/out of the car, pretty disappointed.

maybe ask on /r/AutoDetailing ? This works for me https://www.amazon.com/Sprayway-Glass-Cleaner-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B0052V1JA2?th=1

If not, Hot water + Soap or Foam cannon soak should do the trick.

I messed up the paint job on my resin mini with a gob of sealer. I used Purple Power cleaner; soaked it for 24 hours and it didn’t dissolve the mini. Here’s a link: https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O

You know now that you mention it I don't even know how pure it is. Here's its listing on Amazon, where I bought it from. I was under the impression that food grade means it's very pure, but now I'm not so sure. That's weird.

I got mine on Amazon. It's actually cheaper now than when I bought it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EDBEZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Definitely makes a big difference using lye vs baking soda. It's really not that big a deal to work with, just use common sense. If you do get a little bit on you, put some vinegar on it right away to neutralize it.

I've been adding 2tbsp lye to 32 ounces of water (never water to lye!), then dropping pretzels into boiling water for a few seconds. Sorry for crappy pic: https://i.imgur.com/8SBXWIa.jpg

Blue Funnel and tamper: https://www.amazon.com/Quintessentialz-Funnel-Custom-Tamp-Tool/dp/B074PBBFFM/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=Cj0KCQjww47nBRDlARIsAEJ34bkKrQqyPjC4wXgPgvF20m4A7dwH7EtaiK0CzGelnaQ3Fh_oNxhUS8AaAllXEALw_wcB&hvadid=261954288188&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9021407&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8235567249276677294&hvtargid=kwd-431825393667&hydadcr=24663_9649017&keywords=pax+3+funnel&qid=1558467524&s=gateway&sr=8-3

And I no longer used the half pack lid. I use a sandwich pusher:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7RLWF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Use citric acid instead. No funky smell or foaming to worry about. $20 for 5 pound may be a bit expensive initially, but you only need a couple tablespoons each time so it'll probably last you a lifetime. It's exactly what's inside these.

Has anyone waterproof their boards? How did you do it?

I have this spray I've used for hats, do you think that would work on my Trip or mini Penny Killer? Otherwise I'm considering a moonshine board lol. I live in a rainy area so wet conditions are just gonna be a reality of skating here

I have obtained similar items when buying iphones and video game consoles. I can't recommend these particular ones, but the cords I have come in handy. First one is for the several different apple products, 2nd link is for ps2/ps3, wii and xbox 360. The particular one I have has an adapter for some older nintendo consoles.

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Universal-Charging-Lighting-Samsung/dp/B01AK5AYIM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487358894&sr=8-2&keywords=multi+apple+cord

https://www.amazon.com/MADCATZ-MOV06155V-Universal-Component-Cable-1-8m/dp/B000IAPGIS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487358985&sr=8-2&keywords=universal+video+game+cord

This things pretty handy. Is it the device that's broken or are my batteries dead:
https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-BAT-200-Battery-Tester/dp/B005G7SBY4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487359100&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=battery+tester&psc=1

scotty peeler

goo gone

barkeepers friend

magnifiying glass with light good for looking at little markings or tiny text

upc scanner

I have something like this but I won't buy shoes if they're really nasty :P

DON'T DO THIS

^but If you're dumb enough to do this, do it outside and wear eye and ear protection

Get some lye and some magnesium shavings, a large wax candle or wax block, and a granite crucible. Mix the lye and magnesium together at about a 1:1 ratio in the crucible, and melt the wax in a separate container. Light the magnesium and let it burn for a while, and then put it out after the blinding light and sparks stop by pouring the wax over it. There will be chunks of metal left over, these are elemental sodium. Just the tinyest bit in water will create a similar reaction.

https://imgur.com/a/VAsnkoW

I have duraseal medium-brown stain on my floors. We used the markers below, but I know other companies carrier their brand specific/special markers that work too.

I actually use the oak color on my floors, wait 5 seconds and wipe away with a rag after. I found the walnut (which is similar to medium-brown) is too dark for the scratches. I plan on using some old English, I’m just terrified if it doesn’t work.

Furniture Repair Markers Kit - Set Of 13 - Markers And Wax Sticks With Sharpener Kit - For Stains, Scratches, Wood Floors, Tables, Desks, Carpenters, Bedposts, Touch Ups, And Cover Ups - By Katzco https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WJTNH5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fLMSCbTZNQMNP

>introduce me to no more toxic metals than eating fresh fish or drinking tap water

The toxic metals aren't the problem. It the random other crap that could be in there. I don't know what's in there, but is it really worth the risk?

I mean, you're probably right and all [Edit: After reading remidiality's reply, I'm not as sure about this], but even if there's a 1% chance that you're wrong, is that worth it? 1% is still a pretty high chance. Then you might also run into issues like the Zicam thing where they put Zinc in their 'homeopathic' nasal spray, which caused people to lose their sense of smell.

I'm assuming you live in the US, in which case I'll point you to this which was the first thing I found. That's a crap ton of lye for <$20. Seriously, how much could you possibly save by going for the lab stuff? Is $20 really that much that you would risk serious illness or worse?

Edit: By the way, if my tone seems a bit harsh or critical, I'm sorry, but I don't want you to accidentally kill yourself.