Reddit mentions: The best household cleaning tools

Hey there. First off, it's really good to hear you are trying to come out of a funk. That's something to be proud of, and as you keep tackling small projects, I hope you keep giving yourself the props you deserve for your efforts. It's really great.

As for the sink! I'd start off gentle and then work your way up here.

First off, baking soda. Nothing shines my stainless steel sink like a good baking soda scrub. Get yourself a few boxes of baking soda (I say a few, because there are endless ways to use it to clean stuff and its cheap as heck, so it doesn't hurt to have a few extra hanging around). Also this is the best sponge known to man, and it wont scratch your sink or your tub or your dishes or anything. Get a bunch, they are endlessly useful! https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Dobie-Original-Cleaning-720/dp/B000VPCG60

I find that it can be helpful to wet the sink down just a bit. Sprinkle the baking soda HEAVILY all over it. The sides, the basin, just everywhere you can get it. Don't be shy here. I'm talking like up to a half an inch of the stuff. Then wait. Wait a while. Maybe 15 minutes? Maybe an hour? Maybe a few? However long you can wait. (Take the time to maybe go on a walk and listen to a podcast and enjoy some fresh air. Or an episode or 2 of the most mind numbingly delightful tv show you can find. Whatever makes you happy. Treat yourself.) When you come back to it you might see that a little bit of grime has absorbed into the baking soda (no? Does that just happen with me? I'm filthy, so this happens with me.) Then take your Dobie pad and wet it down a bit with some warm water and scrub the dickens out of the sink. I'd start from the top rim of the sink and work your way down here. As you scrub, you can keep getting your sponge a little wet, but you're going to want to be working the baking soda in with the sponge and a lot of elbow grease. The baking soda will start to fall and accumulate in the bottom of the basin. Try to minimize having the water wash the majority of it down the drain just yet. Use the accumulating baking soda to keep scrubbing.

When done, I like to take a jug of white vinegar and pour it on the pile of baking soda that has accumulated. I do this for a number of reasons. Firstly, it explodes, and that is very very cool. You can keep scrubbing with the new vinegar mixture too, whatever floats your boat. I find the vinegar helps to shine things up a bit, as well as work as a deodorizer. Also, if enough baking soda accumulates in the drain and the vinegar continues to react to it down there, it'll help keep things unclogged and smelling nicely.

Hopefully this does the trick to lift the grease spots as well as shine things up.

If the baking soda/vinegar method does not work, I'd go get some Bar Keepers Friend or Bon Ami. Use a similar technique, but a light sprinkle of the product instead of a heavy sprinkle. And don't add the vinegar, just scrub with the Dobie and water.

Also, WD-40 might be something you can just dive right in with. Just dab some on a soft sponge or rag and wipe it up. (I'd wash and rinse the residue of this off with plain dish-soap and water after you are done. I don't think you'd want to eat off of dishes that accidentally pick up this residue).

You could also look into getting a small blade or razor to scrape it up (with the WD-40 as a lubricant for extra help). You would just have to be extra careful here, but there's less of a chance of scraping the surface in an extreme way with this than a metal brush or something of the sort.

As far as the stove is concerned, I'd just jump right in with Bar Keepers Friend/Bon Ami and the Dobie pad. I also find that Windex works really well on my stove top to shine it up.

As a side note on general cleaning, if you are struggling finding where to start with your cleaning products, these are all very good products to have on hand to tackle a lot of different cleaning conundrums (You would be amazed what plain dish soap can accomplish). I also like to get cleaning products that smell good and illicit positive feelings (If Mrs. Meyers is a brand available to you, the Honeysuckle scented products INSANELY good). I also cannot recommend the book Ask A Clean Person enough. It's very helpful for people who need straightforward cleaning advice and rules.

Goodluck with your progress!!!

Yes you can print discharge in your basement and an exhaust fan is a good idea but I've never found it overwhelming or anything. Better than some screen cleaning chemistry, worse than my poster acrylics. You may consider gloves. I wear them for all printing out of habit but for discharge it's a good idea. Be sure to clean up with a good degreaser (I use Simple Green) and dispose of any unused ink properly.

The cheapest (and most unreliable) curing for some water based inks is to "hair dryer cure" to the touch and then run the shirts in a commercial clothes dryer on high for 30 min. You can usually find these at larger laundrymats. This works only for some inks and you'll need to test it.

Far more reliable and not as expensive as a conveyor is a flash unit. I use this one and love it. I just lay out the shirt on a table and hover the flash unit over the shirt for 30-60 sec until the ink temperature hits it's cure point.

If you do not heat the ink to it's cure point, you will end up with a less than durable print. It will wash out over time.

Screens common for water based inks are 20x24", 156-305 mesh. My most common for shirts is 200.

Your squeegees are fine as long as they aren't too wide to fit the shirt screens. Side note: learn both pull and push strokes. Nearly all of my shirt prints are push stroked now. Also be sure to flood after every print stroke.

Not mentioned elsewhere: Emulsion needs to be resistant to discharge. Currently I'm using TX-Discharge and it's pretty good, flexible exposures and pretty high solid content. Over time I've learned that it's best to post-expose screens regardless of how long the run is. A min in full sunlight does the trick.

You can build a 1-color shirt press pretty cheaply with some cheap lumber and hinge clamps. Google it. Please don't stress yourself out trying to use a vacuum table for shirts. It's a pain. Built my last hinge press for like $30 and an hour of work. Totally worth it.

Other than that, start saving up for a multi-head press. Once you get to wear your work... well, it can be addictive. Hope the above helps and good luck!

I cook primarily on cast iron. Here are some things I've learned:

1. If you are lucky, you'll be able to find some vintage cast iron. You won't regret it. I'm not talking collector status 1800's stuff, but the stuff made in the 1950's is WORLDS better than modern Lodge stuff. Check out craigslist. Don't pay more than $20-$30 for a pan. Most people think they have a collector item worth $100 or more, but if you do a little research, you can pick out some nice pans for cheap, and be educated is very helpful in negociating. I picked up a set of 6 pans off CL for $50 (Griswold and unmarked Wagner pans, pre-1950's).
   
   
2. When you have your pans, you need to clean/ season them. DON'T use flax oil. It is hard, but as a result it is very brittle and won't last. This guy has the best videos detailing how to clean/season cast iron. The TL;DW is:
   
   
   1. Clean pans using a self cleaning oven cycle, you can beat the shit out of these pans cleaning them. Clean, unseasoned pans will rust in a matter of minutes, do not worry.
      
      
   2. Season. If you bought new pans, start here. You'll want to rub a thin layer of Crisco onto your PREHEATED (this opens up pores in the iron) ALL OVER, inside, out, even in the handle notch. Then, you take another dry towel and try to wipe it all off<--very important. You just want a thin film, any more than that you will get sticky drips of unpolymerized oil. This thin film will be your base seasoning, and done properly will prevent rust. Bake upside down @350 for ~30-45 mins. to polymerize the fat.
      
      
3. General care. Get yourself a set of these. Any supermarket should have them. They scrub pretty much anything off a properly seasoned pan. For tougher messes, boil a thin layer of water to loosen up the gunk. You should avoid cooking any acidic foods in cast iron: wine, vinegar, tomatoes, citrus will all mess with your seasoning. NEVER leave the pans wet. Even well seasoned pans will rust if left wet. Wash and dry right away. You should not use soap, I use a little bit if the pan is particularly greasy, but soap will weaken the seasoning. You can always rub a bit of oil on the pan after cleaning if you are worried about rust.
   
   Additional tips:
   
   -Don't be too concerned about aesthetics. These pans can take a beating. The inside/outside will become discolored with heavy use.
   
   -Cast iron pans are a healthy choice. They are a great way to increase your iron intake, something you don't get with enameled cast iron. To be honest, well seasoned cast iron, although less nonstick than Teflon cancer pans, is more nonstick than enameled cast iron. The pans impart a bit of iron to your food when you cook in them. Low iron makes you sleepy, and if you consume a lot of dairy, it blocks iron absorption. Vitamin C increases iron absorption.
   
   -Learn to cook properly with these pans to get the most out of them. Use fat, don't be afraid of it, you don't consume most of the fat that you cook your food in.
   
   -Coconut oil is a great healthy option and can be bought for cheap at Sam's/Costco/BJ's, Also look for any ethnic grocer that sells Swad brand products, their coconut oil is bomb and quite cheap.
   
   -Don't use olive oil. It can be oxidized to a trans fat at high heat (only unsaturated fats can do this, trans fats are the only fats scientifically linked to heart disease).
   
   -Preheat the pan! If it isn't sizzling when you drop it in, it WILL stick. Don't try to flip things too early, it will also stick, you want a nice crust to form.
   
   Best of luck!
   

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

Here's my method, I'll try to be thorough but bear with me, I'm at work.

What you'll need:

3 - MicroFiber Cloths

1 - Shampoo

1 - Eye Glass/Lens Cloth

1 - Isopropyl (99%)

2 - Spray Bottles

1 - Distilled Water

1. Get a few of these bad boys, can be purchased pretty cheap at any auto store / Target, if you have none around the house.
   
   
2. Lay down 1 Microfiber Cloth, place record on top.
   
   
3. Go to your bathroom, grab some shampoo, and drizzle a little bit around said record.
   
   
4. Spray down the shampoo / record with the distilled water, I use a water bottle, a little easier to control than a hose.
   
   
5. Take a second Microfiber Cloth (they usual come in packs anyways) and start wiping the record the way of the grooves. I try to start from the inside out in a clockwise motion. Somewhere between gentle and hard pressure, I guess that'd be medium pressure.
   
   
6. Flip record and repeat steps 3-5.
   
   
7. Head over to that sink! At an angle, so the water drips off the bottom and not onto the label, rinse off the record with the distilled water. (Don't worry about getting a little water on the label, it will dry if it's only a little, but I wouldn't recommend submerging them, they are only paper after all.) Flip and do both sides.
   
   
8. Now have another (dry) Microfiber Cloth ready on a flat surface, put a paper towel down on top of the cloth. Lay newly cleaned record down onto towel, take another paper towel and lay it flat on the record, pat dry.
   
   
9. Take a mixture (I use 35/65) distilled water and Isopropyl and spray it onto the record (I use four squirts from a smaller bottle).
   
   
10. Run a Lens Cloth around the record, again from inside out. This will help dry the record thoroughly and not scratch it up or leave fibers like a paper towel would.
    
    
11. Flip and repeat steps 9+10.
    
    
12. Lay newly cleaned record on sleeve somewhere to air dry any parts that may still be a tiny bit damp (label, etc) or my favorite, play your shiny new record.
    
    I've found this to be the simplest and most cost effective way to clean my records without buying anything special. I already had everything I needed around the house and it truly works wonders. I got a Tribe record for .99 cents, they said it was in terrible condition, skips, noise, the works. Took that sucker home, put it through my system, and it's almost like a brand new record, plays wonderfully.
    
    Whenever I bring a used record home I wash it. If I take out a record, put it on, there's surface noise, and a quick micro wipe down doesn't do the trick I'll give it a clean, usually 'cleans' the audio right up.
    
    Sorry this is so wordy, use method at your own risk, be gentle, records are friends. Easy Listening!

A few things:

To start with, can we talk about ways to reduce the amount of grime getting on you? Because this is not inevitable. I have a pretty long commute, and I relube aggressively with a very persistent wet lube (Rock and Roll Extreme, which is probably the highest endurance high-performance wet lube), and it never gets on my pants or legs. What's actually happening to get you dirty?

That said, here's my recommended solution:

To start with, I'd keep a pack of baby wipes at your office. I recommend Bloom Baby Wipes. They come highly recommended, they're big, they're textured (which means they're way better at lifting up dirt), and they're really good for sensitive skin. They're also not expensive, so you can use a bunch if you need to. Good for wiping yourself down after a ride to get rid of sweat. As with any baby wipe, they'll dry out if you let them, so make sure to keep the whole container in a closed tub or big ziploc bag and stick it in a drawer out of the sun.

If you really want an emergency degreaser, there's a hack you can use. Use an alcohol-based lens cleaner. Here's a good one. It comes with a small sprayer and a big refill bottle. This probably seems like some no name bullshit brand, but it's actually a reputable company. Like Zeiss (a highly reputable lens company) used to sell this same cleaner, from this manufacturer, rebranded as one of their products. I carry the small spray bottle and use it for my computer screen and glasses, but if I really need to degrease myself, this will do it.

Note that most such alcohol-based cleaners are not good for your skin. Beyond just drying you out, they're sensitizers and can trigger skin conditions (this usually requires high concentrations and constant use). So use it to break up any grease your wipe can't handle, then wipe it all clean with a wipe, and maybe moisturize after that. This is a last resort hack, not something you should be doing all the time. I only bring it up because those spray bottles are tiny and will fit in your purse.

Speaking of something you can fit in your purse, you can buy standalone wipes which come in sealed packets, but they're kinda expensive. I keep a supply of Goodwipes as a backup. They sell them in both a big size for whole body wipes and a smaller size. There's also a pull pack, which I sorta don't recommend. It's way cheaper, but even though it's smaller than a pack of normal baby wipes, it's kinda too big for stuffing into a handbag. There's probably a brand out there that's better for cleaning, but I use these because my skin is extremely sensitive (like frequent contact allergy sensitive), and it's fairly gentle. Also not many brands come in individually sealed packets. If you want a cheaper hack, you can just stuff a few folded baby wipes in a good quality ziploc, squeeze the air out of it, seal it tightly, and stuff that in your purse. They should stay wet for a good while, and since they only cost a few cents each, it's no loss if they only last a few days.

Oh. Something related to your query but not quite what you're asking for. Buy a pack of disposable, heavy duty nitrile work gloves. Like actual work gloves, not the medical ones from the drug store. These are super good. Carry a pair to keep your hands clean if you need to handle your drive train during field repairs. When you're done, pull the gloves off from the base, and they'll turn inside out naturally, trapping the grime inside out. Pack the gloves out and toss them at work. The skin on my hands is soft enough that I basically can't torque anything by hand because it just slips, but these are textured and grippy, so these are also really good for me for wrenching at home too. They're also professional-grade, so they're really thick (why you want these instead of medical gloves), and they have a lot of cut resistance for disposable gloves.

Canti's take a lot of nuance to set up well; it took me several years before I got it down. I don't know if I can convey all of my tricks well in text but I'll try.


The first thing is it's all about angles. The height of the yoke, and the angle of the caliper arms in their resting position are good indicators. You want to start by getting the yoke in the right position. Shimano's "yokes" are called "link wires" I guess... according to Sheldon Brown... I always try to use these as I find them easier to work with. There's usually a line indicator to help you set them up, basically you want that "link wire" to be about a 90 degree angle when the brake is resting. When it's set up right, the caliper arms will be close to parallel when resting. You definitely don't want the tops of the arms pointing in, but you also don't want them pointing too far out.

​

After that I use a toe strap or something similar to hold the brake lever in a slightly pulled position. Depends on the length of lever and how it all feels but I usually do it 2 finger widths from the bar, sometimes 3. You're setting the "bite point" of the brake, aka the moment in the lever pull when the pads first contact the rim. With the toe strap holding the brakes at this position, I then install/adjust my pads. I put them up square against the rim. This works best with pads like Kool Stops Eagle 2's that have a little bit of built in toeing (the backs kind of angle out like a "claw") but honestly I've found it works ok with normal pads like Shimano's too. A lot of people will probably protest me here and say you need to toe them some. You certainly can, I just find I don't have to often. Why? I always, always, always clean a dirty rim. I use the "purple stuff", which seems to be called aluminum oxide scotch brite. The last shop I worked at used it all the time so I always try to keep some at my bench now. Clean up rims with it, sand the pads down a little, and a lot of your brake squeal problems will go away.

​

Like everything it just takes time and familiarity. I also "cheat" by using large channel lock pliers to adjust the angle of the whole pad if it just needs a slight adjustment, instead of loosening and re-tightening the hardware.

Ideally no, not dishwashing soap. My understanding is that the chemicals are harsher on the gel coat as well as the environment.

That being said the most popular soap in my neck of the woods is Orpine It goes for a pretty penny. (There's a smaller $20 bottle FYI)

In it's defense though, the gel is highly concentrated, you don't use too much per wash which means that that gallon jug will last way longer than you would ever imagine...but still, $70? Just don't let your kids pour the shit all over and waste it.

I'd also like to add that I'm very fond of the smell of it so much that I'm hoping one day they'll start a body soap or deodorant or something. That's pretty much the one thing that has the edge over a few other boat soaps that come to mind e.g. Turtle Wax, MaryKate SuperSuds, and whatever other crap they sell at West Marine.


As for the Chamois, it really is pretty much the most important part of the process. Basically you rinse, you soap, You rinse again. Soap helps lift the dirt, ash, goop, blood stains, whatever. When you rinse the second (and last time) and leave it to air dry you're leaving all the minerals or residue from the hose water to sit and thus dirty the boat again. You'll see water ring stains from the dried up water droplets on the gel coat, wood, metal, etc. It's definitely an OCD thing but that's how I learned...especially if you get into waxing your boat but that's a whole other discussion.

BTW, an Absorber chamois goes for about $15. The Shurhold Mop is another expensive item for what it is but it's an accessory to a very good and sturdy telescoping pole with very good quality brush heads.

I used to clean boats for a living and after a while you realize that it is expensive to be cheap. Buy once, take care of your tools and they'll love you forever.

Protip: Get into the habit of having NeverDull around. It'll make your metal forever shiny if you just give the rails and other visible metals a quick wipe after you've cleaned and dried it all. The product produces a light haze so give it one last wipe with a dry cloth and you're all set.

Too much information?

Ps. This is the first time I try all these jazzy hyperlinks on a reply. I hope they work.

Edit: had to fix the links as predicted.

What kind of boat do you have anyway?

As someone who is currently struggling with the UTI that just won't quit, I have one piece of advice.

"Do as I say, not as I do."

UTI's are incredibly easy to get, and can be really annoying to get rid of. Boiling is good, specifically for about 10 minutes. (2 minutes is sufficient to kill almost anything, but that is what I did.)

Honestly you're unlikely to get a UTI from the insert itself. You are far more likely to get it via cross contamination. Let's face it, crotches aren't clean. Even if you bathe regularly, there is going to be some additional flora/ fauna living down there. And for the most part that's a good thing. The problem comes when you get it halfway to paradise unintentionally. It doesn't mater how sterile the tube is if your hands aren't sterile. What about the "Clean" surface of the table you're using to setup on? Did you just spend 10 minutes sterilizing your tube, then lay it on a "clean" piece of toilet paper? Did you clean the head of your dick with an alcohol swab?

So if you really want to avoid a UTI, here's the best way to do it.
Time to glove up Your hands aren't clean. It's really hard to get them clean, and once you do, it's really easy to get them dirty again. You want to do this right? Change gloves every time you touch anything new. Got an itch on your nose? New Gloves. Finished wiping down the counters? New gloves. Oh, and only touch the cuff of the glove. These things are only "Clean" until you get them dirty. And using your unclean, ungloved hand to align the "clean" glove on your other hand? Unclean.


MadaCide wipes These aren't for your dick, skin, or anything you're going to put in your body. This is for cleaning the environment around where you'll be playing. (No, Clorox wipes aren't enough. If they were they wouldn't say 99.9% of germs right on the label.)


Time to clean your dirty dirty dick New gloves, and wipe the head of your dick, there's stuff living there as well. BZK Wipes are also good for this

Open that single use packet of sterile lube. No, the raspberry flavored stuff from the local sex shop doesn't count. Cough up the money for the real stuff.

So if you've managed to do this right, and changed your gloves every time you touch anything, congratulations, you've managed a "Clean Field" session. This isn't the same as a "Sterile Field". You can still get an infection, you're just less likely to. You can't make a sterile field in your home, it's not possible.

That's the "Do as I say". The do as I do? Well, I typically wash my hands real well, wipe down everything with a BZK wipe and hope for the best. I've also had two UTIs in the last 6 months and have been sounding (shoving stuff in my pee hole) for almost 20 years.

The bottom line is, if you're not going to be able to go in to your doctor and say, "I have a UTI." Then deal with your Dr saying, "Well, we're going to test you for ever STD in the book, cause you're wrong, men never get UTIs." This is not something you need to explore.

>1) I was just a dumbass for using the scouring pad

Possibly?! Was it like This Or more like This ?


I've never had anything stick so bad that a little hot water and one of These couldn't get it off easily.

-------------

>2) I was seasoning them with too-thin coats of oil

Not likely, you want it wiped down almost dry, you sound like you did good here.

-------------

>3) The quality of my seasoning was somehow marred by tiny bits of rust I couldn't see

Tiny invisible rust won't hurt. But oiling over a raw pan that's not 100% dry and then baking, can cause issues with the seasoning sticking.

-------------

For a long time this Flax seed oil method has been praised as being the end all and be all of seasoning cast iron. More and more lately I've been hearing stories like yours. There's got to be something to it. Either people are doing it wrong, or it's not really as good as people say. All I can say is that people seasoned pans without issue for the last 100+ years using whatever kind of grease they had on hand, and it worked just fine.


I've had pretty good luck with Olive Oil (Even though others may disagree). I've since moved on to using Sunflower oil and like it very much. I use only metal utensils, and only scrub with the pads I linked above and have never had the issue of seasoning flaking off.


Edit

Here's a few links with other people having problems with their Flax seasoning. Maybe you can glean some info from them.



My Flax seed problem.


"It worked nice. I was happy. But it didn't last."


"I like using olive oil better because olive oil in thin layers do not flake off like flaxseed for me"


After 8 coats, the surface looked great, the eggs slide off nicely and I thought we were golden. Then...the seasoning started to wear/cook off quickly.

Right now it's a gorgeous red leather cambridge satchel - like $160-200 once you include shipping and all that, but I'm so tired of buying cheap vinyl bags that start falling apart after a few weeks' day-to-day use and I'm ready for something beautiful and sturdy that will last.

I don't think I've ever given anyone their dream gift, though I did really well by my dad last year - I gave him an Absorber towel (basically a ShamWOW that actually works) and he still gushes to me every time I call about how great it is and all the uses he's discovered for it, hahaha. If only everyone were so easy to please!

I don't know if they would be needs because if it's something I need, I end up buying it for myself. These are things that would greatly improve the quality of my life, but I have a hard time justifying to myself that I deserve nice things:

• The Fred and Friends Dish Wish Scrub Brush - I live with housemates who hardly ever do dishes. I don't want to become the person who does all the dishes (even though I don't hate doing dishes). With this brush, though, I'd be much happier doing them!
  
  
• The Datexx The Miracle Cube Timer - Timers help me keep myself on task -- and something like this that would keep me productive (which is actually one of the things that help ease my depression).
  
  
• The Accell D080B-007K-R PowerSquid Outlet Multiplier - I live in a converted living room, so we don't have a lot of outlets. :(
  
  

You figured this out already, but don't use paper towels if you can help it. Get the large microfiber towels like these. If you have a Harbor Freight in your area you can get 3 for like a buck. Those tiny ones that come with your glasses are for the birds. Also make sure to only use water or specialized glasses cleaner. Never use Windex or the like to clean your specs. Good luck!

1. The starter kit comes with ultimate polish and compound. Those are less aggressive versions of M105 and M205. I would skip the kit and just get the Meguiars duo.
   
2. Instead of the mothers clay kit get the meguiars kit. IT has better clay and the spray detailer it comes with is way better.
   
3. If you're getting Collinite #845 then you wont need Poorboys world EX. Collinite #845 lasts a long time and in my opinion #845 looks better than EX.
   
4. The Meguiars wheel kit is VERY aggressive. I would get some Sonax Full Effect for the wheels and use Meguiars D101 (which is on the list) for the tires.
   
5. The Mothers tire brush is awful! Just terrible to use. The popular choice now is the tuf shine tire brush. Its simple and its the best tire brush hands down.
   
   Some things you may have forgotten:
   
   
6. Since I told you to pretty much skip most of the kits you have listed, get some cheap microfiber towels for everywhere but your paint. I recommend zwipes from amazon. I use these towels to dry tires/wheels, interior, glass, everywhere but the paint.
   
   
7. Wash mitts. I really like chenille wash mitts.
   
   
8. Nice towels for your paint. You need nice microfiber towels that will only be used on your paint. Anything from theragcompany.com will be good or some generic chemical guys microfiber. Another good brand is Cobra.

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

• Polisher - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-variable-speed-dual-action-polisher-69924.html (no matter what you want a dual action polisher, as other kinds require more skill to avoid damaging your paint)
  
• Cutting pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-compoundcutting-foam-pad-60311.html
  
• Polishing pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-polishing-foam-pad-60309.html
  
• Ultimate compound - http://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?sa-no-redirect=1 (you can skip if your paint isn't bad, no bad swirl marks or scratches)
  
• Ultimate polish - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687402&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001O7PNNM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1P9X3VP7TVA943BYC6C7
  
• Sanding block - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQYZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (if you're going to use touch up paint)
  
• Microfiber rags - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Wax applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
• Duragloss - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W0ZNIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Color matched touch up paint (if needed) - http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
  
• Detail clay - http://smile.amazon.com/Simoniz-S57-Perfect-Finish-Detailing/dp/B0081OSRQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414207600&sr=1-2&keywords=clay+bar
  
• Foam applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZPW/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
  Basic steps:
  
  

1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
   
2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
   
3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
   
4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
   
5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.
   
   You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
   
   The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
   
   

• How to use a dual action polisher - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrse_DBaUbc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MYqiBLIU9c
  
• How to touch up paint - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15T08rfuTSg
  
• How to clay your car - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqW1nzgyMNA
  
  And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
  
  edit: two other tips...
  
  

1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
   
2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.

The chain mail thing is great if you want to go that route. Personally I just use a perfectly normal stainless steel scouring pad that you can buy pretty much anywhere for a few dollars. I literally get them at my supermarket and for the past 10 years they have gotten the job done just fine. Good luck!

edit: as to this stuff

>I guess I’ll just buy a chainmail scrubber - but what do I do after cooking? Let it cool? Can I cool it down with cold water? Is 10-15 minutes enough cooking? Do I then go at it with the chainmail and running water?

I let mine cool off. Usually I just go eat dinner. Then when I wash up I wash the pan. Cooling it with cold water .. well I've done it. It works. People will tell you that you have a chance of warping/cracking the pan. If it is hot enough they are correct! So typically I just leave it on the stove till after my meal and then clean up.

>I’m new to this all and struggling. My housemates are all having a go at me for using soap and I explained that lye is the problem but they look at me like I’m an idiot.

Soap gets things clean. Clean is good. Use soap.

So I guess I post my answers here.

1. This item is good for storing and sharing all of your magical concotions, be it polyjuice potion or love potion. Just be careful to not have too much fun with it.
   
2. This broom made of high quality material will last you forever, and can probably handle a trip to space, so getting around campus should be no problem.
   
3. With a bit of magic, this item can help you defend yourself against the toughest washroom trolls.
   4. A book! And well, it is a book about a non-descript wizard. I could learn some very valuable lessons from it.
   
4. This little number can be used to store your photos from family back home, or your collectible wizard cards from the packs of chocolate frogs you'll find around campus. You can also magic it to protect your lunch from those nasty Primeryns.
   
5. This book is a pretty magical one, and can help you improve your magic dramatically by teaching you how to spell. (hurr, I think I'm punny.)

Turtle Wax Orange Car Wash

The Absorber to dry with.

A dry blade helps get the initial water off.

[California brush] (http://www.calcarduster.com/originalDuster.asp) works for the dust between washes.

There are a bazillion swirl removers out there. I wouldn't recommend using any of them unless you have some sort of electric buffer/polisher. I tried without one and I wanted to commit suicide it was such a horrible process. If you do have a power tool, get whatever brand sounds nice. Meguiars has some good ones but I can't recommend anything here.

Carnuba wax ...they have [wax for black cars[(http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g6207-black-wax/) but I've never tried it.

I use all of that and it works great. Can't promise it's the best on the market or that there isn't anything better..but it's worked great for me and I baby the shit out of my car.

Mothers 155900 Packages 155901 Carpet and Upholstery Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GJ3E5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.Q1ADb8HWB1FQ

This was one of the first brushes I bought probably 5 years ago when I started and still one of my favorites to date. Something with a handle may be more comfortable with you but I can work with either.

Magic erasers will help pull up dirt and stubborn stains on leather and vinyl/plastic. Just be gentle when using it.

For leather I just soak a microfiber in water and wring it out really good. Then I squirt some leather conditioner on the towel and massage it in the towel so you don’t get conditioner in the cracks of seats. May need to re damp towel and definitely add a few more squirts of conditioner as you go. Let sit for a few minutes depending on temp and buff with a dry microfiber towel. If you get conditioner in a crack just use that dry towel to rub it out! Also I use leather conditioner on all my door panels, any kind of plastic, inside cup holders, etc. pretty much try to hit anything that isn’t fabric.

Also the more you massage the conditioner in the seat the better chance you have at removing tough stains/built up grime.

Goodluck and hope this helped!!

Current tools in the box

From Amazon:

• Pair of clear plastic dome trays
  
• Silicone Repair Mat
  
• Watch Press and Pry Tools
  
• Caseback and Movement Holder
  
• Hand Press and Hand Removal Tweezers (i actually took the post out of the press, and used the piston by itself. the press does not move straight up and down, so I found it easier to hand hold the piston and guide the press myself slowly.
  
  • I have these hand press tools on order, and should hopefully have them in the next week.
    
• Rodico
  
• General Watch tool Kit
  
  ​
  
  Also, this is the walkthrough video I used for reference when changing the movement.
  
  ​
  
  Happy Modding!

http://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-SW-250i-FR-Everholder-FURemover-Broom/dp/B000EFDOOA/

I got this as a psuedo-joke, but little did I know that it would be AMAZING for cleaning up the carpet of my love's hair before vacuuming. The rake just takes hair, sticks it to the rubber spikes, and catches every clump you would miss with your eyes. It really is awesome, haha.

Honestly, the kit is only an OK deal. It's fairly overpriced for what it contains.
For less money (assuming I'm looking at the same bundle as you), I'd get the following:

• http://amzn.com/B00BS3GM7I - same foam gun, different branding
  
• http://amzn.com/B00BJCAPEE - Mr. Pink is PH balanced soap that foams extremely well, and is just as good in buckets. Citrus Wash and Gloss will strip wax.
  
• http://amzn.com/B00RDMBTNA- Microfiber wash mitts.
  
• http://amzn.com/B00ANZHG7C- Cheap, half decent microfibers.
  
• http://amzn.com/B00EVY2LKI - Drying Towels
  
  Also, it's really important, at least in my opinion, to have 2 buckets and Grit Guards. I'd get two of these: http://amzn.com/B00ABYVTZA and pick up some buckets at Home Depot or Lowes, or order one of the bucket/grit guard kits from Autopia.
  
  Finally, Microfibers are an investment as long as you take care of them. What I linked is cheap, OK quality stuff. Check out The Rag Company, and maybe consider getting one of their starter packs for better rags.

Good choice. I have the same. Here are some bullet points:

• I have a job box that I set it on top of to cook, and store it inside the job box when not in use.
  
• I keep the grate indoors and clean it after every use. A simple course steel pad will work just fine. It and some Dawn dish soap.
  
• I clean out the ash after every use. (I store it in a knee high metal trash can)
  
• I use a chimney stack to start standard charcoal briquettes You only need to fill it 3/4 of the way full.
  
• You can easily close the vents and cap off to kill the briquettes and use them on the next grilling.
  
• I clean grill itself twice a year. Once in the fall before the winter season. And then again late spring/early summer. Once again, some Dawn and the above steel scouring pad works fine.
  
  I cook all the time for my lady and myself. 4 burgers. 8 wings. A full slap of spare ribs (cut in haft), 2 T-bone steaks, Shish-kabobs . So this grill is perfect for your application. Granted, don't plan on cooking a side with most meals, as the meat takes up a good amount of room.
  
  
• Yes you can do Hot and Cold sides. Just put your charcoal to one side. Granted this does limit your cooking space. So you may have to do something like burgers in batches.
  
  Oil is not needed. Thou I tend to Pam not stick spray the griddle right before I put the meat on. It works fine. A little elbow grease when you clean it may be needed, but it is fairly easy.
  
  Some Proof of what I have done with mine:
  
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/512344565479911424
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/493891657683574784
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/466727864847441920
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/451459503956176898
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/451443387242389504
  

I've never been gifted, so technically everything has been ignored, BUT this would be a great addition to my kitchen arsenal!

Show this gift some love!

Thanks for the contest!

Try it with a microfiber cloth like these (that's just an example so you can see what I mean lol). I've used the simple brand with the microfiber cloths and it gets the makeup off pretty well. What I find works best is to use the cloth and baby oil first. Baby oil+microfiber cloth gets off EVERYTHINg, even waterproof stuff. It's amazing and won't clog pores or anything like that. I use the micellar water after to cleanse and get rid of the oil.

The shirts are the cheapest part to dry clean and you can even get away with touching up the ironing on your own is you were an undershirt or don't get them too sweaty.

If you get a good suit brush https://www.amazon.com/Kent-Handcrafted-Clothes-Brush-Cc2/dp/B003B3YESC/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1539023097&sr=8-2&keywords=suit+brush&dpID=41vE44hqU4L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch (is the one I use), you can save a lot of dry cleaning on your pants and suit jackets. I use it a lot and it's really better for the fabric long term (compared to dry cleaning regularly). Something to think about, and good luck with the new job!

$0-5: these cute cat toys because all our kitties need lovings too.

$5-10: This funny dish scrubber because we all deserve to feel like a princess or fairy while making magic in the kitchen such as getting rid of grease gunk.

$10-20: This Sheldon Cooper shirt because nerdy humor is sexy.

$20-50: Adopt a Sloth because the money goes to donating towards the animal and you get to ADOPT A SLOTH..do I really need to explain why thats so awesome?!

I'm planning to write a post in the interior soon but for now...

The first step is to give everything a really good going over with a vacuum. This is where you need to spend most of your time. Almost everything that's not leather can be cleaned with an All Purpose Cleaner (UK link and US link):
Spray it on, agitate with a brush (ordinary paint brush will do). Then...

If it's fabric - vacuum with a wet-dry vac (use a cloth if you don't have one)
If it's trim - wipe dry with a microfibre (UK link and US link)

To protect things I really like 303 Aerospace Protectant... it protects against fading caused by UV radiation (UK link and US link)

Leather is a different kettle of fish and you need to use a cleaner then a conditioner (UK link and US link)

Real talk, I've been using some weird rubber pet hair broom (like this thing) for the last 5 or 6 years. It's far and away the best snow removal tool i've ever used. I can easily reach every part of the various cars/ trucks I've used it on. It's like a super soft rubber so it's basically impossible to scratch anything and it leaves everything squeaky clean/dry and snow doesn't get stuck in the bristles so you can clear like a foot of snow off your entire car without ever having to mess with it.

I still have a normal ice scraper/brush thing that i keep in my car for actual ice though.

Fiber Clothe and some Water not much Water you don't want to Damage your 3DS use about what your would use to clean off a controller or a TV Dont use Rubbing Alcohol this can Dry out your Screens and Plastic on your 3DS and make your Screen Foggy. Using the Fiber Clothe should also remove any Grease from your hands as long as you use a little bit of water on it. You can get a Fiber Clothes Super Cheap on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-All-Purpose-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

You can Use the Subscribe and Save to Save a little but of $ once they Ship you Can Cancel your Subscribe and Save and you will still get them cheaper :)

It's a modern Lodge skillet.

Look at castironcollector.com for instructions on how to restore.

I'd recommend the yellow-cap oven cleaner in a bag, scrubbing with stainless steel wool, and then a short diluted vinegar bath followed quickly by seasoning with Crisco. Three coats is what I'd recommend.

Good luck, that's a nice pan!

No just lock stitching, but those are being cuffed twice so you won't see the hem and I don't think it needed to be chain stitched since those hems weren't anything special I think. None of them offer chain stitching I can find here in Houston yet.

The tailor who said dry cleaning is better is right next door to a Dry cleaner... so Idk... about her. Her reviews were good on google, but I never really used a tailor before.

I am fine with wrinkles. Though I do want to learn how to iron or steam my clothes. I never ironed before. I thought about buying a steamer but I am not sure which one I should buy or how much they cost and finding out when they go on sale or is a good time to buy. Same with buying a depiller and a garment brush. I was looking at something like this to brush my clothes. Though I don't honestly see the difference between a 100% horse or boar hair brush vs a cheaper 100% horse or boar hair brush that is used to shoes or beard for much cheaper. Just not as many bristles on some

If you are sensitive to pressure treated wood then something like this that prevents the transfer of chemicals but would tear quickly, with less strength to pull your hand into the blade and is more close fitting would better:

http://www.amazon.com/Liberty-T2010W-Industrial-Glove-Disposable/dp/B00C9P9D52/ref=sr_1_6?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1405389665&sr=1-6

Roughly speaking: Brushless is better for your paint - brush is better at removing dirt/grim. Bring a chamois and some wax-as-you-dry. Pull over to the side of the car-wash when you're done and dry/wax the car off (doesn't have to be perfect). Use a different cloth to dry your wheels. You dont want brake dust/particulate making it's way back up to your paint. Pretty simple methodology I use, but then again i'm down south where it's not below 32F everyday. hope this helps point you in the right direct! post up some pics when she's clean!

Chamois example

If it's hops you'll have to clean out the tube/poppet/tap/etc. then find a way to filter it BEFORE it enters the dip tube.

Someone below mentioned a muslin bag, but that might cause resistance or foam up the beer.

Stainless steel scouring pads might work. (this was suggested to me once here when I had the same issue). THESE But make sure you boil/sanitize them first and then just get it the bottom of the keg around the bottom of the dip tube. The idea is this will catch the hop sediment before it enters the dip tube. Good luck!

I haven't done one myself. But if you don't want to ruin the default shell, BASSTOP and some other companies on Amazon sell after market shells.

First you need to take a scour pad to the surface you want to paint. Rinse it off and make sure its clean and dry before painting.

Use a spray primer before painting. I would recommend a matte black or white. The use spray or acrylic paints to get your desired colors/effects/designs.

Then use a spray clear coat to seal it.

I'd look up plastic painting tutorials, a lot of the same practices can be used to achieve different results with controller shells.

A large microfiber cloth works great for fingerprints and such. The smaller ones are insufficient, like the ones for eyeglasses, so I recommend the ones that are roughly 6" squared. These ones look like the ones I use; they're good for cleaning the mirrors in your house and the windshield in your car since they don't streak:

http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-24-Pack/dp/B00ANZHG7C/

edit: don't use the same cloth that you was your windshield with on your Surface, the ammonia cleaner will eat through the protective covering.

Do you want to rock his world? Buy yourself some Nitrile (not latex) exam gloves like these and a good silicone-based lube meant for anal play like this one. Once you have these items, read up on prostate massage at /r/prostateplay. My wife does this for me and it is amazingly intimate and pleasurable. It's unfortunate that there is a social stigma associated with anal play; I think every guy should try it at least once as it could be a life changer, as it was for me.

I have not tried this on a SS mod specifically, but I am a machinist by trade and we use Scotch-brite to polish various steel, brass and aluminum parts. I use it on my copper Stingray and it puts a bunch or super fine scratches on it that give it a really nice (in my opinion) matte shine. They are cheap enough from wally to try it out.

If you're looking to do a long term value purchase, here's a great setup I can recommend! You may even already have some of these products reducing from the investment cost!
Electric Pressure Washer - $89

Snow Foam Cannon Attachment - $17.88

Shammy / Chamois Towel of Your Choice* - $8.25

Shammy / Chamois help you remove the water off a car so you can go ahead and start waxing once its dry.

1 Gallon of Snow Foam - $29.99

22 Oz Spray Wax Bottle - $12.99

Any pack of microfiber towels, spray like 2 sprays of wax on the microfiber, wipe around, take another microfiber to wipe away wax. $4

1 Gallon Acid / Non-Acid Based Wheel Cleaner (This one is acidic) - $18.99
Dilute the wheel cleaner, spray on the wheels and tires, let it sit for a little bit, then pressure wash off.

Add a clay bar if you want to get embedded dirt / brake dust off your paint! It's easy to do, costs a little, but the results are worth it.


THESE ARE MOSTLY PREMIUM CLEANING PRODUCTS! You can cut a few dollars off by going with more generic products. Why go with Gallons? You dilute all of these (except wax of course), so they will last you a looooooooooooooooong time if used correctly.

The investment is worth it if you ask me, instead of going through your local 1 minute wash for $10 or whatever, you can do a more thorough job yourself!

Awesome idea! If you love that person that much more, just had to share a step up from this product without having to know tire pressure: http://www.amazon.com/FOBO-Bluetooth-Compatible-Monitoring-Motorcycles/dp/B00WBD00FO

Added this to my wheels and having pressure and a quick temperature readout in the morning before leaving my kitchen is pretty insanely nifty.



Other ideas for OP:

Freezeout Balaclava: http://www.amazon.com/FREEZE-OUT-Balaclava-Black/dp/B0096R08W8/

Microfiber Cloths (great for visor wipes, general cleaning, and wiping condensation off the bike in the morning): http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-36-Pack-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

Cat Crap (visor antifogger): http://www.amazon.com/EK-Ekcessories-10003P-AM-Anti-Fog-Cleaner/dp/B002BHWZFI/

Lock Laces: http://www.amazon.com/LOCK-LACES-Elastic-Tie-Shoelaces/dp/B00975EAJ6

Motorcycle Tire Inflator (fits under my seat easily): http://www.amazon.com/Slime-40001-Motorcycle-Tire-Inflator/dp/B000ET9SB4/

https://www.amazon.com/Ronson-ounce-Ronsonol-Lighter-Fuel/dp/B0017X1NGO

https://www.amazon.com/1000-Count-Double-Tipped-Cotton/dp/B079F9BYMJ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDK78GQ

​

Put some lighter fluid on the qtip, wet the pad and clean with some pressure what you can with the qtip. Use the other end to clean again but take also take the lighter fluid off. Get another qtip, wet the pad again. Take the straw cleaning brush and brush the pad / crevice with mostly not too much pressure (prefer the smallest one). Enjoy clean pads that don't stick (for some time (days-weeks-months)).

Oh boy this is confusing. So I have a couple of needs:

1. Waterless wash/quick detailer
   
2. Applying/buffing sealants like Carpro Reload
   
3. Drying
   
   Is it possible for someone to recommend a few options for each category? Is something like this good for #1 and #2? What about this for drying? How does that waffle one compare to this Woolly Mammoth one?

I got my husband one of these and our vacuum stopped looking like that. He scoffed at me when I bought it but now he loves it. :)

Same thing. All a Magic Eraser is is a melamine sponge, and one has a significant name brand upcharge. I have a bag of 100 of them in my closet I got for $6.63 or so. Arrived via the slow boat but they are perfect.

Edit: The ones I got are $8.99 now. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XC32NMK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Still a good price on 100.

It's called melamine foam, and is also used in soundproofing rooms. You can buy the off brand stuff for WAAAY cheaper than Mr clean. Here's 100 of them for 10 bucks with free shipping. Mr clean wants like 8 bucks for 4 of them.

Dude, yes. If it's anything like the rubbery white caps on my converse, Magic Eraser (and honestly, the cheap knock off's too) works a charm!

Hey Maggie,

​

Over the last couple of years I too have started to really enjoy the pleasures of cooking full on meals out on the trail. I went through the same struggle, bought a few different pots, burned a bunch of food along the way, and all of that.

​

I finally bit the bullet and paid the money to try out one of those MSR ceramic nonstick pots, and that really changed things for me. Highly recommend them. The aluminum gives a good heat distribution and the ceramic coating does a great job.

​

I use a stainless steel scrub pad on mine, and so far it does not appear to have caused any damage to the coating, but I am not sure I would go and throw sand and rocks inside of the pot, I am just not sure what that would do.

​

Also, I first bought the 1.3L and found it to be an "ok" size, but when I really wanted to cook a nice meal, it just felt to be on the small size, so I ended up buying the 2.5L version, and that has really opened up the dishes that I am able to cook out on the trail. The extra 3.5 oz for the larger version, on those trips when I wanna cook a nice meal, just seems worth it for the extra room/volume in the pot. It is one of those things where the food seems to always be at the very top of the pot (with the 1.3L) versus having a bit of extra room inside of the pot to stir things around, and even add a bit of extra liquid should the need arise.

​

The lid on the S2S is better for straining and cleans easier, but I did not like the handle and the coating on the pan was not as good as the MSR.

​

I did not try the halulite, because when it comes to cooking, a wide and short pot is better than a tall and narrow, and the halulite is the latter of the two.

​

I have seen pictures of a few hikers that have caused damage to the MSR Ceramic pots, but every single time I have looked at their pictures, it was clear that they had their stoves in some kind of freakish afterburner mode and just caused heat damage. Keep your stove on low to medium and these MSR ceramic pots will serve you very well.

Melamine sponges have a very fine abrasive quality which is perfect for this application. Mr. Clean Magic Erasers are just melamine sponges impregnated with a detergent.

Just a generic melamine sponge with rubbing alcohol should work really well.

My best "hack" is to buy a stack of these. Keep a stack in the bathroom then before bed wipe down the sink, counter, and toilet quickly. Throw the rag in a separate laundry bag so you just wash the entire stack at once. I do the same in the kitchen at night. Grab a cloth and wipe down the sink and counters.

Every morning you wake to a clean bathroom and a clean kitchen.

There's a couple of different kinds of microfiber cloths, but I'm going to assume you're talking about this stuff

In my experience, microfibers tend to stick to wood, getting caught behind even the tinyest imperfections. That makes for a shitty material to purpose for rubbing over wood. Doesn't mean you can't use them for that anyway, just prepare for feeling like your did a shit job sanding regardless of how well you did.

But you're by far not limited to lint free cotton. You could also use a regular (clean) brush (just watch out for escaped brush hairs, and make sure your stain isn't too thick or the brush stripes won't spread out and disappear). Paper kitchen towels or just toilet paper work fine on wood that's been sanded to like grit 300 and above. In a pinch, a sponge (tends to degrade due to friction, but the chunks are easily cleaned off) will work fine too.

Just beware that whatever you use won't be usable for anything else after the fact.

Whaaaat!? I've never seen those and now I want one! opens amazon

Edit: I ordered this one!!! It even doubles as a squeegee!! I'm so excited lol thanks, OP! It's going to be amazing on my wood stairs AND carpet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8bPIybBK6B24R

Wipe the car down with one of these.

I've used them for years, including on my model 3. If the car is clean it won't scratch. It'll suck up ALL of those water spots. It's brilliant. Just be sure to keep our moist.

Edit: Results: https://i.imgur.com/rHHNEQk.jpg

I use microfiber towels with great success! Example: http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-737-Microfiber-Cleaning-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

It's a drying chamois with a different coating to make it slide over dip easier while holding a bit more fluid. These are pretty good on dip and paint, and it's what the Dip Washer cloth is based on. You can pick up the chamois online or at Walmart and stuff.

I bought it earlier this year. Here's the thing. You know surgical gloves? This is going to sound ridiculous, but they solve everything. The design of the Mad Men collection is BEAUTIFUL, honestly. It's the most beautiful DVD set I own. However, the DVDs just... don't.... come.... out....

But the gloves. Using a glove, they come right out. And you're not ruining the BluRay by touching it (the glove leaves no scratch). I keep the glove folded up in the back of the box set. Everything works out fine. I know, I know, this is the definition of bad design, but it's a concession I make because I love Mad Men and, besides the crap functionality, the design is just so lovely.

Next time you go to your doctor ask for a glove.

I am a left handed sushi chef too! This is common if you let it stay 100% wet. I usually do my cleaning and dry it the best I can...then about 15 mins or so later i come back with a sushi eraser and polish it up.

They come in handy...

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Premium-Polishing-Eraser-Single/dp/B001DMX6OG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344322598&sr=8-1&keywords=knife+eraser

try that, keeps the knife pretty.

Best tank cleaning purchase I have made! Acrylic safe too!

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/USMYTHA-Melamine-Cleaning-Multi-Functional-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK&ved=2ahUKEwiy0qPy4oLlAhVog-AKHdvzB6kQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw1bGWfw6w4-Ildnbbs8ow7w&cshid=1570197883990

As an initial matter, soaking is generally useless (and can be unsanitary if you don't rinse thoroughly). Because you have no dishwasher, you probably don't have a disposal. If you do, it's a lot easier. Here's my approach.

(1) Get rid of all the food solids. Down the disposal if you have it. If you don't, i take a plastic grocery bag and scrape all the solid foods into it with a paper towel or napkin from dinner.

(2) Sometimes I pre-rinse the dishes at this point to remove further solids. Sometimes I just go to step 3.

(3) Using a good sponge that has a scrubber side (or a Dobie--a good brand), I load the sponge with dishwashing liquid (usually a good brand like Dawn--it really does work better on grease).

(4) Scrub and rinse under running water in one step. Place in a rack to dry. I have a system where I wash things in order--utensils first, small items, plates, and then cookware last. It just makes sense for some reason.

Dishes that are thoroughly clean will air dry fast. I find towel drying to be a waste of time and towels, unless I need the item immediately.

Sponges need to be completely wrung out of water when done so they don't grow mildew. You will be able to smell a bad sponge right away. Sniff it--it should have no smell. If it does, all you need to do is put in the microwave on a paper towel for two minutes at high--it will sterilize the sponge completely. Ta da!

These things are your new best friend.

Barkeepers Friend + Heavy Duty Scour Pad

I used this combo on my baking trays this past weekend, worked great.

(https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Scour-Pad-86/dp/B000KKIMU0).

Just found this 100 pack for $8.99.

And the customer questions are pretty great too.

as people on this thread have said: high % iso alcohol and epsom salt is the classic combo. I would also recommend some long pipe cleaners like this or this and if you want to clear up foggy glass you should use white vinegar.

What are your experiences with Silk Naturals products like their BHA, AHA, and Vitamin C serum? The Vit C serum has a really attractive price as compared to Paula's Choice.

Also, I got Alpha Hydrox AHA lotion (10% I think) as well as The Body Shop TTO for Christmas and I'm still unsure of how to incorporate them into my skincare routine. I was thinking of trying the AHA lotion once a week, maybe building up to it for regular use, as I'm currently using PC 8% AHA and could probably stand to go higher percentage now. With the TTO, I've tried using a cotton tip to dab it on my acne, but I'm not really sure if it's doing anything. I used it for about a week.

Finally, are these good MF cloths for the face?

More line than you think you need. Double the line. You can never have enough line.

Waterproof, powerful flashlight my recommendation

Plastic bag with a lanyard for valuables/wallets/phones/licenses. Alternatively, a pelican case.

A pair of vice grip pliers ("The wrong tool to get every job done right")

A knife, as others said. I work professionally on the water as well as boating recreationally. The Myerchin Rigging Knife is the best all purpose knife to have on board. It might be a little overkill, but when you need a line cut fifteen seconds ago, you'll be glad you have it.

A VHF handheld radio and a knowledge of what channels are monitored by the USCG (13, 16, 22A), Commercial traffic (13/16) and local police/fire departments

Spare fuses, bulbs, plugs

A Towboat US membership

A bigger, heavier anchor if you're anywhere with a decent amount of current (rivers, oceans). I'm very much a proponent of overkill when it comes to anchoring. I use an anchor way bigger than my 20' pontoon needs, and it's a tad pricey, but once I drop it and pay out the scope, I rarely worry about dragging.

Bag of cleaning supplies. Rags, paper towels, and the holy trinity of vinyl care: melamine pads, CLR Mold & Mildew, and 303 protectant

Most important item of all: A bleach bottle with the bottom cut off

Get a set of these. They make cleaning stuff up super fast and easy.


https://www.amazon.com/Scrubbing-Attachment-Cleaning-Bathrooms-DrillStuff/dp/B0727NJZNV/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4RHKY7XVG58BZF8CFZ1K

They make these fantastic silicone brushes that remove pet hair from upholstery and clothes! And brooms, too! Helps keep my vacuum from exploding.

You can use the ones for cleaning!

I use these. I'm sure you can find some cheaper than these, but they work well and the colors help me differentiate them from other cloths.

I have to clean the outside of my filters every 3-6 months. The pores on the outside clog up with a thin slick sort of film in my case. I use a 3M scouring pad and very lightly rub it on the outside. Then rinse the filters with clean water. You really should disassemble and clean your Berkey at least once every six months anyways.

It's friggin' awesome this thing... I tried it out on an area that had already been vacuumed - and it pulled up stuff the vacuum had left behind. Definitely requires "raking" action than "push broom" action.
https://www.amazon.com/FURemover-Squeegee-Natural-Multi-Surface-Telescoping/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521034340&sr=8-3&keywords=fur+remover+broom

Mister Clean Magic Erasers might work. Or just the generic https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK

Just be sure to go easy on the area around the ring or you'll take the paint off.

I got a couple from West Elm a few years ago and they've held up nicely. I clean them with a little brush like this from Amazon

This is what I use to clean up rust. It works great. https://www.amazon.com/Super-Eraser-Rust/dp/B001DMX6OG

My routine is not really indie. There is a lot of stuff about routines on /r/skincareaddiction btw.

Mine is like this:

Morning

1. Wash face with Nobel Formula Pyrithione Zinc Bar Soap
   
   
2. Wipe off soap with damp microfiber cloth
   
   
3. Apply Paula's Choice Skin balancing toner to face and chest
   
   
4. Wipe on Stridex pad in the red box to face and chest
   
   
5. Moisturize with CeraVe AM sunblock/moisturizer. If it's especially dry, I will apply a small amount of CeraVe moisturizer in the tub
   
   
6. Apply makeup if i feel like it
   
   Evening:
   
   (0. if wearing makeup. Rub jojoba oil all over, and wipe off with damp microfiber cloth)
   
   
7. Wash face with CeraVe foaming cleanser
   
   
8. Apply toner
   
   
9. Apply stridex pad
   
   
10. Spot treat with Paula's choice benzoyl peroxide if necessary
    
    
11. Slather on CeraVe cream from the tub.
    
    Here is a list of products:
    
    http://www.amazon.com/Noble-Formula-Pyrithione-Zinc-Soap/dp/B004R3TBEC
    
    http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-36-Pack-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES
    
    http://www.amazon.com/Stridex-Strength-Medicated-Maximum-Count/dp/B000O1KP1O
    
    http://www.amazon.com/CeraVe-Moisturizing-Facial-Lotion-Ounce/dp/B003WN1ELQ
    
    http://www.paulaschoice.com/shop/collections/Skin-Balancing/_/Skin-Balancing-Oil-Reducing-Cleanser?ftlt=nonbranded&gclid=CL7nkp7kwMECFZBi7AodpFAALA
    
    http://www.paulaschoice.com/shop/Clear-Acne-Treatments/_/Clear-Regular-Strength-Daily-Skin-Clearing-Treatment/
    
    http://www.amazon.com/CeraVe-Moisturizing-Cream-16-Ounce/dp/B001V9SXXU
    
    http://www.amazon.com/Surgeons-Skin-Secret-Pump-Ounce/dp/B005N9BHQY
    
    http://store.acne.org/jojoba-oil

These from Amazon are great for what you specified. This is a huge box of them for $17. That’s almost 4x as many for only $10 more. I bought 2 boxes under Subscribe and Save (not available any more) for about $14. I just trash them if they get nasty. They never touch paint though. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XECJES/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For one, the hand-held Metro Vacuum ED500 is probably one of the best investments you can make. It has worked flawlessly for me for over 2 years.

As for cleaning LCDs my personal favorite has been this

http://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Laptop-Microfiber/dp/B0047E8DN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420159104&sr=8-1&keywords=bryson+lcd

Along with a nice set of microfiber cloths

http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-24-Pack/dp/B00ANZHG7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1420159264&sr=1-1&keywords=microfiber+cloth+zwipes

Quick tip, if you're ever unsure whether your cloth will damage a screen or leave scratches, take it and find an old cd and try to rub the bottom of the CD as hard as you can. If you see more scratches then before, I would avoid using it, but if it comes out scratch-free then its safe to use.

Thanks for the reply!

Haha it was mostly just because a lot of the threads online about cast iron table saws and rust seem to warn against it. I have a ROS but no belt sander so that definitely could be an option. I did stick one of these on the ROS and go over the top after electrolysis and it did an okay job of cleaning up and smoothing out the area to the left of the blade opening and miter slot (it was comparable to the right section. I'll post an update after I have a chance to work on it some more this weekend!

https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK


Don't buy another name brand magic eraser. These are identical at a fraction of the cost. I use these for LITERALLY EVERYTHING. Countertop, stove, use them on my feet my shoes my car. It is the BEST cleaning utility of my lifetime.

Got a white board that won't wipe clean? Take some windex and scrub the board with an eraser, apply a new coat of whiteboard finisher and bam, just saved yourself $40.

I can't sing the praises of this item enough.

Just an FYI-Mr. Clean Magic Erasers are just a fancy name for melamine sponges...just buy these and save a ton!!

I bought THESE. So far, they have worked well for me. Nothing 'Big Name' about them, but I've used them and washed them a couple times and they hold up fine to normal use. Hard use seems to wear them out, but they are pretty cheap.

My particular one is the FURemover, I got it on Amazon for around $20. You use it just like a rake, raking up all the hair haha.

Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/FURemover-Squeegee-Natural-Multi-Surface-Telescoping/dp/B000EFDOOA

Surprisingly a rubber squeegee works really well for pet hair removal out of carpeting. Kinda like this

Does anyone know if this kent brush would be safe to use with a wool suitsupply jacket?

This is the most expensive item I've bought so I wanna make sure it lasts.

These are amazing and totally worth it. Dry the windows and steel first so don't get water spots.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AY69V?pc_redir=1406880365&robot_redir=1

https://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-FURemover-Squeegee-Multi-Surface-Telescoping/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=fur+broom&qid=1559142610&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 Pretty sure its this one.

fyi for carpets there's a broom like thing where at the ends, instead of bristles, it's basically rubber, to "sweep" up all the hair in the carpet. my mom uses it for my hella fluffy pomeranian when he's at max floof capacity (ie after he's done shedding and all his hair grows back in 1 week and he just poofs up like a popcorn)

edit: found it

I've removed clear coat with 3M pads, they come in a variety of grits and leave a nice surface finish if you're careful with them. https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-General-Purpose-6-Inch-9-Inch/dp/B000LPN3WQ

Go to home depot or lowes and buy a pack of these. They are around $2.50 for a pack of 3.

Sanitize 1. While you're doing that remove the liquid post and clear/re-sanitize it. When you put it back in, before pushing it all the way down use SS tongs or something to let you push the end of the dip tube into the middle of the pad. Push the dip tube all the way down and reattach post.

Depending on how much liquid is in the keg, you can use your hand (sanitized) and it's very easy to attach.

Problem solved for less than $1.

I have an american eskimo mix who sheds all the time in a household with (mild) dog allergies so we vacum a lot. If you have high pile carpet, none of the roombas we've tried seem to be able to get all the fur totally out of the carpet. It does pretty well but there still is visible fur clumps after it runs. We either run a regular vacuum once a month as a deep clean or use a carpet rake to get the rest of the fur out. The carpet rake works better for us since our dog is terrified of the regular vacuum (He does fine with the roomba tho).

Not completely zero waste but better than throwing out a bunch of disposable ones:

Reusable lint roller: https://www.amazon.com/iLifeTech-Reusable-Sticky-Cleaner-Remover/dp/B00WQY9PHW/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=sticky+buddy&qid=1556762332&s=gateway&sr=8-13

Pet hair removal:
https://www.amazon.com/Pet-Grooming-Effectively-Professional-Deshedding/dp/B01M5DS0Z7/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=pet+hair+brush&qid=1556762376&s=gateway&sr=8-8

https://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-FURemover-Squeegee-Multi-Surface-Telescoping/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=pet+hair+brush&qid=1556762410&s=gateway&sr=8-9

I bought these from Amazon. I love them, so soft :)

Someone also recommended elsewhere of buying a bunch of cheap shirts if you have anywhere around you that sells them and just cut them up into squares.

I brush my pup every 2-3 weeks. I used to do every week. He could use it every week. I sweep and clean the floors every week. With carpet, I cleaned weekly. For my coats and nicer clothes, I use a clothes brush. I bring it to gatherings with me because he'll shed on other people too. Honestly, it's just hopeless.

Does anyone have any experience using cheap melamine sponges to clean their tanks? Specifically the generic ones you can buy in bulk like these. I'm mainly concerned about them deteriorating inside the tank while I'm using them.

Evriholder FURemover Broom with Squeegee made from Natural Rubber, Multi-Surface and Pet Hair Removal, Telescoping Handle that Extends from 3 ft to 6 ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EbDLBbRVQB1H5

Something like this

Oh man, that sounds awesome! Is it this?

Personally I'd opt for http://amzn.com/B00E4UOKNK instead. Looks like they're a bit thicker which I find nice when working with things that aren't human.

I use a [melanine sponge] (https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK) myself and it works pretty well.

I have bought these 3 things and am happy about my purchase.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16899261002

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIABR04WE2931&cm_re=zip_ties-_-9SIABR04WE2931-_-Product

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-All-Purpose-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

As far as the tool kit goes, the 22 one is on sale for only 22 bucks. The zip ties are more then I'll ever use, and the micro fiber clothes are absolutely ENORMOUS. If you dont need to clean monitors often, maybe dont get the microfiber clothes.

The screwdrivers aren't magnetized so you'll need one of these;
https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=magnetizer+demagnetizer&N=-1&isNodeId=1

For your build, at that price point for the CPU go for a 1500X.

https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=2910&cmp[]=3001

I just started this year, but have yet to be stung through the nitrile after a dozen or so inspections. I think that they make it so you can feel a bee humming before you press on it, which makes it easier to avoid squishing.

Also, for those concerned about waste, I have used the same pair all year, and they have held up.

My mentor recommended the ones with grip for car mechanics.

DON'T GET BLACK ONES though. One of they guys in our class did that and he got stung like 5 times in a row. Bees don't like black things that look like bear hands :p

I use, and love, Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths.

This is a great product. The rust eraser. http://www.amazon.com/Super-Eraser-Rust/dp/B001DMX6OG

Looks like cooked on food, or hard water deposit. Go to the store, get a scouring pad, and go to town. It'll take awhile, but it should clean right up.

I've been wanting to build my own watch for years, but there is lots of terminology, and always worried about getting the right pieces and knowing what the hell I was doing.

I finally got motivated enough to to make this when I saw: https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/87640n/build_i_assembled_a_watch_because_someone_told_me/

Thanks Scooter356.

Cost Breakdown

Parts

| Part | Cost | Link |
|---|---|---|
| Strap | £18.95 | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gipsy-Stitched-Vintage-Style-Brown-Leather-Watch-Strap-18-19-20-or-22mm-AM1/152902576907?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=452661711715&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 |
| Case | £23.75 | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fit-ETA-6497-6498-movement-parnis-44mm-Polished-316L-stainless-steel-watch-case/322157907423?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 |
| Movement | £30.40 | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17-Jewels-classic-6498-Mechanical-Hand-Winding-movement-fit-mens-watch-M14/322427983275?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 |
| Dial | £16.00 | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/38-9mm-white-dial-blue-hands-fit-for-6498-Movement-watch-dial-with-hands-62A/322459621256?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 |
| Total | £89.10 | |

Tools

| Part | Cost | Link |
|---|---|---|
| Rodico | £8.99 | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008YMGYBU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
| Casing Cushion | £4.20 | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B017MQ07FW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
| Toolkit | £15.49 | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071P7B672/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
| Total | £28.68 | |

Total Cost

£117.78

I struggled putting on the second had, it is RIDICULOUSLY tiny, and took me about 45 minutes of trying.

Unfortunately I cut the winding stick thingy (mind=blank) a fraction too short and now, after winding it up twice, it no longer winds up; I think something must have come loose, so I will have to take it apart and see if I can replace that bit. Any suggestions as to it's name would be appreciated.

Over all, i'm very pleasantly surprised by the parts I got. I didn't realise that the strap would be quite as nice, and the glass (mineral) is very nice to look at with a nice magnification of the dial and a bluish tint when the light bounces off it.

I am bit disappointed that I didn't make it with a date function, I keep looking for the date that my previous Hugo Boss chronograph had, although I don't miss it's other features all that much.

My next watch, I will make for my wife. It wont be quite as large, but I haven't decided any more than that about it. I still need to pick her brains on what style she wants.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MGSGN1Y/

can confirm, awesome gloves

Thank you for mentioning that you can't mix these chemicals!

I think it's my shampoo and conditioner- I get buildup in my tub really fast.

While it has never looked like this (ew. Just... ew.) I use fill and soak with bleach method as well. I find the smell to be less abrasive than Comet, which is the next best thing for removing soap scum, in my opinion.

I don't use other chemicals in that same day, though. I fill the tub with hot water (if you have a crappy hot water tank, think of maybe adding some water you boil on the stove) and add a few cups of bleach. Let that sit for about an hour or so- no less than 30 minutes. Then get a pair of gloves and a dish sponge like this and start to work on the sides- dip the sponge into the bleach water, scrub over the area, repeat.

For a job this big... you might need to do this a couple times.

I also use meguiar's #26, This stuff is for after your paint is already clean and polished. It is a paste goes on ok, comes off pretty good and your ass will slide across the paint with ease. I use dish soap to clean, use castrol super clean on the tires and wheels, I use 409 inside the jambs. I have over 40 years in paint and body, and we make cars look good. I also use absorber for a chamois, works great and no dead goats. This squeegee is also great, small car not needed as much, but big ass cars it's a time saver.

I used this brush

4in 4 Piece Soft, Medium and Stiff Power Scrubbing Brush Drill Attachment for Cleaning Showers, Tubs, Bathrooms, Tile, Grout, Carpet, Tires, Boats by DrillStuff https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727NJZNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j8oPCbF4142VE

And also used this cleaner. It works so great and you’re supposed to dilute it 20-1 so a little goes a really long way.

Chemical Guys CWS_103_16 Fabric... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJHTCEO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It was crazy easy, I just sprayed a bit of the cleaner. Let it sit for about 30 seconds and started using the drill brush and you can see the stuff come up immediately. I used a microfiber to clean up after the brushing and I was done. No steaming or extracting necessary.

Here's the list of all the tools I got:

Tweezers- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0028C9IMO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Hand presser/lifter- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0748HZTMH?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Case opener- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058EDAUA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Clippers for cutting the stem- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-End-Cutting-Pliers-Nippers-4-quot-Electrical-Wire-Cutter-Jewelry-Tool-Allied-/322393033884?txnId=2067048388011

Magnifyer (loupe)- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000LDG2HQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Magnifyer holder- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079CBLTDG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Case cushion- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GPH2M6X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Silicone grease (for the o-ring)- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058ED3MA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Rodico (for picking up dust)- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008YMGYBU?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You'll also need a set of jewelers screwdrivers and files, which I already had, and some nitrile gloves or finger cots so you dont get oil and dirt from your hands onto the movement. I've also seen other people recommend getting a movement holder to hold onto the movement while you attach the dial and hands.

I cant beleive nobody has mentioned this:

https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK

Seriously makes cleaning SO much easier.

You're welcome 😁



100Pcs/lot ERASER CLEANER MAGIC MELAMINE SPONGE CLEANING 10x6x2CM https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00XC32NMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E6HwCbSTEVNW7


They arrive in a big bag, but each sponge is individually wrapped.

There are long handled squeegees that are perfect for getting dog and cat hair off of fabric surfaces and out of carpetFURemover

What's different from your old house?

/u/majesticjg has the right idea. We've noticed that area's without carpet have the least amount of "animal" smells. Dust and hair get pushed into the corners of the rooms by the ceiling fans and we just sweep them up every couple of days. Soft surfaces like carpet and cloth trap and hold dust and hair. This is one of the best tools for rugs and carpet. It pulls up all the crud that gets stuck down in the fibers that a regular vacuum just can't get. It works really good on berber and not as good on shag, so YMMV.

We have 10+ animals in our house and our filter still looks brand new after 6 months, it's one of those $30 12 month monster filters (I should check it again though). We also only have one bad shedder who we comb regularly and that seems to help the most out of everything. Grooming your pets is something that people tend to forget, but is an important part of owning a pet. The GSD/Husky mix is the worst shedder I've ever seen and we usually have to give him a good combing every couple of months. A Furminator is nice, but we just use a fine tooth comb or one of those metal bristle brush. If you dogs don't mind the vacuum, having someone there with the hose to suck up all the hair makes things a lot cleaner.

I use a heavy duty abrasive scouring pad to clean my toilet. Something like this or this. It works like nothing else. I've used pumice stones with good results, too, but the scour pad is my go-to now since the abrasive doesn't wear down like pumice does. Others in the thread are concerned about leaving scratches. I just checked the bowl with the flashlight and I don't see any.

Better yet, buy them in bulk on amazon Baoer 100Pcs/lot Eraser Magic Melamine Cleaning Sponge 10x6x2CM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XC32NMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_V3TOXYIeXJSw1 they are way cheaper

Yeah, hand sanitizer is probably a big part of your problem. I don't have long wait times, so I just wet my hands between steps so my bottles don't get sticky. What I generally do, is fill my sink with water to wash my face and then keep using it as a basin to dip my hands in between steps. I mostly use a wet washcloth to wipe away cleanser, so it doesn't usually have much more than water. You might try your actives without long wait times for a bit and see if they still work, at least while you're in a dorm. I never needed to wait longer than a minute or two with mine (I don't use them anymore because my face was always like "hell no, this shit is too harsh" even though I was using the freaking super gentle Cosrx stuff...) and they always worked just fine.

Another option, while you are in a dorm.. it could get a bit pricy over time, but maybe getting some disposable gloves, like the powederless ones they wear in doctor's offices. I buy these ones and they aren't bad. 100 for $10, so 50 pairs. I use mine for handling meat in the kitchen because I have issues with touching raw meat or for oiling up potatoes or something because olive oil takes forever to wash off, but they don't end up being all that expensive, even if you use a pair every day. But you could use a pair for your actives and then a pair for the routine if you can't wash your hands prior.

I think a third option, would be to buy a small bucket, or one of those collapsible bowls. Something like this maybe?, that you could fill with water to use as a basin in your room to at least get a rinse on your hands and then you could just walk it back when you are done to dump it out.

The last idea I could think of, isn't my favorite, but maybe cleansing wipes, or baby wipes, so you could get a kinda-wash on your hands from your room. Just keep tabs on your skin, because even the gentlest of them could cause skin problems when residues are mixed with your products.

I used Mothers 155900 Carpet & Upholstery Brush https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001GJ3E5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AmGrDbYEC6S4Z when I cleaned up my old car to sell it. Worked really well to break up salt stains/residue from a few years worth of Canadian winter road salt.

I carry a couple microfibers in my bag to work and use them: not these exact ones but something like this

We have a Dyson DC41 and it does a good job of keeping the carpet clean of my long, ever shedding hair, plus the two dogs and the cat.

Another, cheaper option is to buy a rubber broom and run it back and forth along the carpet. The hair sticks to the rubber bristles and the come up to the top. Depending on how much hair you have in the carpet, the broom will roll it into small ropes that you can then vacuum up.

We've tried both and found that the dyson gets out the same amount of hair as the broom (on our carpets), but keep the broom around for cleaning out the cars.

Found it on Amazon!
4in 4 Piece Soft, Medium and Stiff Power Scrubbing Brush Drill Attachment for Cleaning Showers, Tubs, Bathrooms, Tile, Grout, Carpet, Tires, Boats by DrillStuff https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727NJZNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WDvCDb7G7J7A7

Evriholder Sw-250I-Amz-6, Furemover Pet Hair Removal Broom with Squeegee & Telescoping Handle That Extends from 3-5', Black & Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oSmtDbHNQE8KT

Or something similar. Works really well!

Oh damn, I hadn't seen the kits, thanks for pointing that out man! Would it be a good idea to pick up and extra set of hands before I start?

Also, would this set of tools be enough to get it built, or am I missing some stuff?

Cleaning Rodico

[Tool Kit](
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075LM4332/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?i)

Cushion

I think we would both like this!

From my list!

http://www.amazon.ca/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-Pack/dp/B00ANZHG7C
I use these, I would use one of those designated water "vinyl cleaners" but they're a little expensive. Make sure you go in a circular motion though so you don't drag dust into the grooves.

I tried one of those on a really dirty tub once, and it did not work well at all. It did look a fair bit cheaper than the one you linked. But what worked the absolute best was one of those stainless steel scrubby things.

i would probably go home with a sebo K3 if i were in your shoes (or can go big with a D4). Sebo's quick fieldstrip head will come in handy in removing the medium/long hair, washing/disinfecting, and i dont think there's anything else like it in that regard. a new roll costs like $25 if you happen to kill it. Not sure if it comes with parquet or kombi head also but they work good with front brush removed. Sebo bags are cheaper than miele i think, but 2/3 the size unless you shell out the $$$ for a D4 which is more comparable to a miele C3. Smaller bag capacity could be a good thing. How long do you really want crap to ferment in the vacuum anyway?

​

The Miele C3 costs more but has bigger bag comparable to sebo D4. the SEB236/228 powerheads basically dont fieldstrip at all, but it has a slot in the brushroll for scissors. I would probably pick a C2 or C3 for a house with no pets.

​

Both choice are totl for filtration. Spend the savings on bags. Change often if it smells. Buy bag tablets.

​

On second thought, maybe a vacuum cleaner is the wrong tool for massive amounts of fur. You wouldn't use pliars to remove a lug nut.. but you could. Long hair and spinning brushes don't seem like they should go together. Maybe the suction can be used in conjunction with a specialized tool?

Evriholder FURemover Broom with Squeegee made from Natural Rubber, Multi-Surface and Pet Hair Removal, Telescoping Handle that Extends from 3 ft to 6 ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WWq1BbTE1WZQV

Grandi Groom AB24 Carpet Rake, 18-Inch Head, 54-Inch Handle, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009A35AUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DVq1BbFTRWMXM

It is a never ending struggle when it comes to the hair. I have found a rubber bristle broom helps a lot though.

My dealerships kinda cheap actually so I think a drill with adjustable speed and these brushes would be better.

You can use a rubber broom. I bought this one.

For blankets, I'd just shake them out super hard outside. I usually just throw them in the wash though.

Sorry, when I meant I used a scouring pad, I didn't mean like steel wool, or an aggressive scotch brite pad, I just used a mild [Dobie pad] (https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Dobie-Original-Cleaning-720/dp/B000VPCG60), it's super mild and I use it aggressively on my nonstick surfaces without issue. If this is something to avoid, however, i'll stop immediately.

Thanks for all the good info, I just gotta get into the good habits, but I can tell this is like when I went from using a drip machine to a chemex for my coffee, just gotta get into the swing of things.

I had one of these clothes lying around, and I found if I folded it once and wore it over my head, I could wear the rift much loser and gain a ton of long term comfort. It allowed me to play skyrim VR for hours straight, where typically I get odd strap pains that only manifest over long sessions.

Edit: Trick works on Vive Deluxe strap too, and it does a ton to make the Vive tolerable comfort wise.

Mr. Clean magic eraser. AKA melamine foam.

Video linked by /u/rog_ChaiNSaW:

Title|Channel|Published|Duration|Likes|Total Views

----------:|:----------:|:----------:|:----------:|:----------:|:----------:
How To Restore A Rusty Old Knife...|cutlerylover|2016-05-21|0:17:26|1,186+ (96%)|78,624

> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DMX6OG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=

---

^Info ^| ^/u/rog_ChaiNSaW ^can ^delete ^| ^v1.1.1b

Soaking in vinegar works wonders. I also like to buy "non-abrasive" kitchen sponges. These work wonders and wont leave a mark.

FYI those expensive pva cooling towels can be found in the automotive cleaning isle they are used to dry off your car. They are twice the size and cost less money. This is what i use The Absorber.

You could try something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Super-Eraser-Rust/dp/B001DMX6OG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500918968&sr=8-1&keywords=metal+eraser

Something like this would work: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Brite-Stainless-Steel-Scouring/dp/B002CQTXBC/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1372694956&sr=8-7&keywords=steel+wool

If you like them here's the next tip. Just buy Melamine sponges in bulk.

https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK

A toothbrush with a smaller head or something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hiware-Drinking-Straw-Brush-Kit/dp/B06XDK78GQ

How about $12 for 100? Works just as well as the name brand...

https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK

When did I get so boring as to passionately want a cache of dusting cloths.

Oh, always, right. I'm dull.

Welcome to the club!

For a full blown "detail" I'll do as follows

1. Foam cannon
   
2. Two bucket rub down
   
3. Clay bar
   
4. Chemical Guys V38 or V4 All in one
   
5. Drive
   
   For maintenance just the first two steps (most of the time just the foam cannon). Not everyone has access to a pressure washer, they do make foam cannons that attach to your standard garden hose. They don't work as good, but will loosen and remove dirt just the same.
   
   Something that didn't see mentioned was a decent drying towel. Using a bath towel can cause scratching and swirls I'd highly recommend the chemical guy's Wooly Mammoth

THIS.

Magic Erasers are gods gift to sneaker heads everywhere.

Also, don't buy name brand Magic Erasers.

Generic Melamine board can be purchased wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy cheaper.

Amazon has 100pcs for <$7. The name brand ones don't break down as fast, but at this price point, you could use them once and throw them away and still spend less than the name brand ones.

Lol

This is the one I use but they all work: Rust Eraser - Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DMX6OG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3h.KDbKF4K1WQ

These should do just fine: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XECJES/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

But any will work from target, Wal-Mart, Walgreens...

How did the waffle weave towel do for drying I've been using something like this, but I was thinking about getting one of the Meguiar's waffle weave towels.

Get a clothes brush. Make sure it's bristle (or horsehair), brass ones could be too aggressive for wool.

You can buy 100 of those for $12 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK

Pipe cleaners... There are all kinds on amazon.

At the lower end of the budget, you could get this. Plenty of them, so you could use a few for your monitors or just for all around dusting purposes.

However, they're aren't the best quality towels. If you're willing to spend more than that, you can get higher quality towels, or you could probably spend around the same as that and just get one or two. Because you're in Canada however, I am not really certain on the best places to purchase microfibers without doubling the price due to shipping. (Free shipping on the link I provided, with order over $25)

I also frequent /r/skincareaddiction and you can't go wrong with a pack of soft microfiber cloths for drying his face.

This has come highly recommended, but I haven't used it yet.

Stainless Steel Wool. You will not believe how well it cleans off cooked on wort from your cook top.

No experience per se, but I have used a rubber tined "rake" called the Fur Remover on lower pile carpet before with good results.

https://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-FURemover-Squeegee-Multi-Surface-Telescoping/dp/B000EFDOOA

Get these They are the same thing as magic erasers except they aren't crazy expensive.

I have a rubber broom that collects dust and all of the pet hair.
It hurt a little to pay so much for a broom, it's worth it. One side is also a squiggly that ul you can use on floors or windows.

Evriholder FURemover Broom with Squeegee made from Natural Rubber, Multi-Surface and Pet Hair Removal, Telescoping Handle that Extends from 3 ft to 6 ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BcD7AbMKGR1P7

I'm not sure how well a lint roller would get into the engravings. I personally would try alternating toothbrush and compressed air until it's clean, then resume. Actually, I'd probably just use watchmaker's putty because I have weird things like that laying around the house, but toothbrush and air should be fine.

You can probably avoid getting more crud back in the engravings by lightly soaking a sponge with linseed oil and then just dabbing it on those areas.

It just occurred to me today that my Explorer is the only car left that I had when I bought my absorber in 2006. Since then I've gotten married, did a stint in the military, moved 4 times, had three kids and half a dozen cars have come and gone, two of which were driven to their demise. But the $8 (in 2006) shami is still going. https://www.amazon.com/Absorber-Synthetic-Drying-Chamois-Natural/dp/B0000AY69V

This is the one I have:

Hair rake and squeege

Much cheaper:

http://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-SW-250I-FR-AMZ-FURemover-Broom/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=sr_1_2?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1458309948&sr=1-2&keywords=rubber+broom

https://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-FURemover-Squeegee-Multi-Surface-Telescoping/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Rubber+broom&qid=1559180842&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Right here.

I think it might be this!!

FURemover Pet Broom

I use one of these on the hardwoods for dog hair. I also use it on the rugs before I vacuum. Works for me.

Stuff a 3M pad up the spout.

More than you need on Amazon

Scotch Brite

Get some Dobie pads. They scour but don't scratch.

Zwipes Microfiber:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XECJES/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=N32TYJJ2MHWM&coliid=I3U7AVQ15PQA16&psc=1

Eurow Microfiber:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGMHUK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=N32TYJJ2MHWM&coliid=I3AL3X0K0W352R&psc=1

These are basically what I use to wipe the car with.

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-All-Purpose-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

Is that incorrect?

Amazon

Water from a spray bottle and one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XECJES/

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Eraser-Rust/dp/B001DMX6OG

https://www.amazon.com/Flitz-Plastic-Fiberglass-1-76-Ounce-Blister/dp/B000MUSOW4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497037428&sr=8-3&keywords=flitz