Reddit mentions: The best household floor cleaners

I started typing and this ended up being really long, hopefully it helps. I might have gone overboard, so if you need / want a TL;DR or more info on anything just say the word and I'll do what I can :)

My personal preference is to add details and touch-ups to my figures. I've done a few full repaints, and I'm working on my first airbrushed figure, but I really like adding in details where the factory didn't :)

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Paints:

I've had good results using alcohol based acrylics like Tamiya, Model Master, or Testors Acrylics (I think Enamels are Testors' main line, so make sure to check what type it is). Alcohol-based acrylics thin and clean up nicely with 91% isopropyl alcohol, I usually pick it up from whatever pharmacy is nearby (don't get the 70%, it doesn't work at all).

Citadel and Vallejo make nice water-based acrylic paints in additional colors, you'll definitely need a primer if you're working with Vallejo (I've only used a couple of Citadel paints, so I can't really speak to them).

You'll want to stay far away from acrylic craft paint, I've tried it in the past and it doesn't come out well at all (I just use some empty glass or plastic jars from stuff like sour cream or salsa since they're not too big).

Some folks like enamel paints, and there might be another kind of model paint, but the chemicals in those paints and their thinner tends to be quite strong so I avoid them. I used un-thinned enamels when I first started painting, and when I tried to use the thinner it ended up melting my paint tray and making a mess, so I'm not too keen to give them another try.

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Tools are going to differ a bit depending on how you want to paint (hand painting vs airbrushing or spray painting).

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Hand Painting:

You'll need paints, some soft bristle brushes (I have a set like these), something to stir your paint (I use a Badger Paint Mixer and love it to bits), thinner (depending on your type of paint), a mixing tray, some pipettes for measuring paint and thinner, something to hold your parts while painting (I like these Aligator Clips), something to stick the clips into (I use a styrofoam block wrapped in plastic from a craft store, but I've seen folks use taped together cardboard like from Amazon boxes or the cheap foam coolers), some fine grit sand paper or nail buffing blocks to help rough up the surface slightly to help the paint stick, and something for topcoat (I absolutely love Pledge Multisurface Floor Care, aka Future Floor Wax, it's a clear acrylic wax that dries to a semi-gloss to gloss shine, it brushes on nice and self-levels for a smooth finish, and one bottle will last a REALLY long time; I got a bottle a few years ago and I've used it on a LOT of gundams and TFs and the bottle is still half full). You may also want some smaller containers or jars to hold your thinner, brush cleaner (alcohol or water), and topcoat if you're using Pledge just so you don't need to keep the big bottle out on your workspace.

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Airbrushing:

You'll need an airbrush and compressor, and then a lot of the same supplies as above. You'll also want some small-ish jars to store your thinned paint so you can re-use your leftover paint instead of having to toss it, and some painter's tape to mask off parts you don't want to paint and to keep your paint lines clean.

You can airbrush inside the house, but you'll want to do it in a well ventilated area if you don't have a spray booth (box with a fan and air filter to help move the fumes out the window and help keep the paint from spraying everywhere). I'm still learning to paint with my airbrush, so I don't have too many tips here.

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Spray painting:

You'll need your choice of spray paints, alligator clips, fine sand paper, and some painter's tape to mask off areas so it doesn't get everywhere. I definitely wouldn't advise using spray paints indoors, the fumes tend to be really strong. I haven't really used spray paints in a long time, so I'm not a lot of help here either.

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Markers:

Some folks might recommend sharpies or paint pens / markers, but I've never had good luck with them.

I do highly recommend using a Micron, Graphix, or Prismacolor marker / pen for highlighting panel lines in .005 thickness for most figures. The .01 and even .05 markers can work well too, but they might be too thick for some figures, so a couple different thicknesses can't hurt (I've got a pencil case full of lining markers from those brands). Don't use sharpies for panel lines, unless things have changed, even the thinnest ones tend to dry a purpley-blue instead of black, and the lines are still really thick compared to the Micron.

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Painting Tips:

• Always wash your figures in some warm soapy water, rinse them off, and let them dry fully before painting. This gets rid of any leftover mould release from the factory, it helps keep the parts from sticking in the moulds during assembly, but it will repel paint, pledge, primer, and panel lines like mad. I've skipped this step in the past, but things never turned out as well; so now I wash all my figures shortly after I open them up and make sure they're keepers.
  
• Always thin your paints! You might need 2-3 coats to get things just right, but the end finish will look really nice. I've found a 2:1 ratio of paint:thinner seems to work pretty well for most paints, but ymmv (the temperature and humidity can have a huge impact on how the paint comes out, and fans can speed the drying process, which can be a blessing or a curse, heh).
  
• If you're painting parts that will rub against others, lightly sand the surfaces first. This will help the paint stick to the plastic better.
  
• You might need / want to prime a piece before painting it. You can prime by hand with a primer like Vallejo Surface Primer, or with a spray primer. I find spray primer tends to come out smoother, but depending on what you're doing, either can work (priming by hand tends to come out a bit thicker, so ymmv again). When I paint by hand I'll usually only prime if I'm painting a dark piece a lighter color, but when I airbrush everything that's getting painted gets primed first.
  
• After you paint something, let it sit for about an hour before doing another coat, and let things fully dry and cure before moving on to topcoating and panel lining (usually 24 hours between a final coat of paint and topcoat, and another few hours between topcoat and panel lines).

What kind of paint did you use? Do you have an airbrush? Do you plan to sand with 800+ grit before coating?

There's a lot to learn about paint jobs and sealing them. After a few failed attempts and weird reactions, I tend to keep same brand paint throughout a piece (for primers I hop around, but let it dry completely before top coating).

If you're using a different brand I HIGHLY suggest you wait until it has gassed out (it doesn't smell like paint anymore lol). This can take several days depending on how many coats you used, and whether you applied them too thick.

Sanding allows for better grip of the clear coat to the paint. Wet sanding is best since it removes the debris of paint and prevents most deep scrapes. It is easy to sand through your paint, especially if you only did one coat (which is why you should do 2-3 with some light 600 grit sanding in between)...

I hate sanding before a clear because I suck at it and tend to create a deep scratch or two because I'm too strong for my own good :P What I have found to work wonders is Floor polish/wax.
This is the ONLY one that a lot of modelers suggest:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was known as "Futures" before, but after re-branding and all that, it is now what I linked. You'll need an airbrush for this. Do a light misting of the entire part you're working with, then apply several thin coats allowing them to dry in between (usually 1-2 minutes or less if you have good air circulation). It smells great, self leveling, you can dip small parts into a little cup filled with this stuff... it's fantastic. It's slightly flexible as well. If you wait 38 hours (i think that's what the bottle says) you can apply a second coat for added protection. Make sure to clean your airbrush with ammonia (I use windex), to prevent it from curing inside it.

Essentially, floor polish is more forgiving, but offers slightly less protection than a well applied clear coat. If you don't have time for all that prepping crap (wet sanding before and between clear coats), then definitely go this route.

Well, in that case, if you are going to do that, I don't recommend buying an airfix starter set (it's discussed below for completeness, but while the set of paint and cement is appealing, you'll end up throwing it all away later on aside from the paintbrush). The paints included in there almost certainly will not work well.

Go to a hobby store or something, buy a cheap airfix kit (I recommend either the Harrier FRS.1, Zero, Spitfire PR.XiX (all in 1/72), go to an art store to buy some Golden Talkon brushes (it's the name of the material; its' a super soft orangey bristle), and buy some paints (acrylic, plus a bottle of spray primer), while you're there.

See this old thread below of another beginner (though he was interested in sci fi), of tools you would need.

**That list is configured for the UK.

If you want to build plastic models, I recommend a recently issued spitfire model from Airfix, a few bottles of good, brushable paint (Model Master Acrylic is good, if you use a spray primer), and a few "golden talkon" synthetic brushes, plus tweezers and an exacto knife.

The basic starter sets you can buy are these:

Italeri: http://www.austinsmodels.co.uk/product.php/italeri_jas_39_gripen_172_scale_starter_kit/?k=:::6142968

Airfix: http://www.airfix.com/uk-en/shop/starter-sets-and-gift-sets/small-starter-sets.html.

These are gear towards children, and the quality of the paints are marginal at best. However, what it will do is give you an idea of the challenge ahead.

And some liquid cement.

As for why the long list below, there is an alternative:

Airfix, Revell Germany, Heller, and Italeri ALL make starter kits with paint and cement. However, the stuff in those are generally designed to appeal to children and would have to largely be replaced once you are "serious" about this.

The tools I recommended are more for if you're investing in the hobby for the long run with reusable, useful items you can continue to use for long periods of time.

However, if you are unsure, there's nothing wrong with one of those complete package kits. Warning though, Airfix's start kit paint is absolute garbage. but water soluble and easy to clean up. Strippable with alcohol, at least in the formulation I got a year ago.

And here's how I'd set it up:

1. Airfix Spitfire PR XIX. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airfix-A02017-Supermarine-Spitfire-PRXIX/dp/B0021L9BNI/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369626&sr=8-13&keywords=airfix+spitfire,
   OR: Airfix FRS 1 Harrier: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airfix-A04051-BAe-Harrier-FRS1-x/dp/B0021L9BU6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1442370019&sr=8-4&keywords=1%2F72+FRS.1
   **you'll notice a theme developing. These are all mostly single color builds, minus some detail work.
   
   
2. Brush pack: Get all the listed sizes, and then one 1/4th inch brush (go to an art store. Golden Talkon synthetic (orangish, really soft) is what you're looking for). http://www.amazon.co.uk/Royal-Langnickel-Golden-Taklon-Synthetic/dp/B000X213JC/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369689&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=golden+talkon+brush+10%2F0.
   
   Or, this: http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Langnickel-Taklon-Brush-Super/dp/B001ARHH7G (probably the better choice).
   
   
3. Knife: in the UK, Swann Morton is probably easier to get.
   
   
4. Cement: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement-Toy/dp/B000BMYWYC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369769&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+extra+thin Sandpaper pack: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Albion-Alloys-Sanding-Sticks-360/dp/B00DRAEV0A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369797&sr=8-5&keywords=sanding+sticks
   
   
5. Paint is preferably acrylic, so long as it's not Humbrol Acrylic, because that paint is utter garbage (and is what comes with the starter sets and bad, tube-based poly cement).
   
   
6. Consider a can of spray primer (NECESSARY if you use Model Master Acrylic, which brushes well but NEEDS a primer).
   http://www.amazon.co.uk/Humbrol-150ml-Acrylic-Spray-Primer/dp/B004T8TD0C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369901&sr=8-1&keywords=humbrol+primer
   or: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Model-Color-Polyurethane-Primer/dp/B004BN5RYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369935&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+primer
   
   
7. Or best primer: http://www.amazon.co.uk/GRAY-PRIMER-180ml-PLASTIC-METAL/dp/B0000WS014/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1442369976&sr=8-2&keywords=tamiya+primer
   Other items:
   
   
8. A bottle of humbrol "Clear" (the substitute for Future/Johnson's floor polish in the UK). Decal setting solution (optional) Decalfix, Micro Sol will work. (In the US, Future is a gloss coating used by modelers, painted on or sprayed on before applying decals, available here: https://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1468023141&sr=8-2&keywords=pledge+floor+care
   
   **Future can be found in hardware and places like walmart in the US, there is no need to order it online except for convenience.
   
   
   
   
   
   

Whether it's the legs, arms, ab/diaphragm, or head, you should use Pledge future polish. Clear nail polish can damage the paint on a figure, depending on the brand, some don't, but I don't remember which brands. Also it doesn't last as long as pledge, and is just messy overall.

Future polish dries clean on 1-2 coats, holds well, and tightens joints strongly. I had a Masterpiece Grimlock that's legs were straight up loose out of the box, they wouldn't hold a pose at all. One coat of future and they were perfectly tight, and still are, haven't had to redo it in over a year. And it washes off neatly with water.
Only use super glue in any of those joints for a more 'permanent' solution.

But if it's the waist rotation, I recommend a good quality super glue over future here (but you'll have to keep rotating it for a long time to make sure it doesn't get stuck, it might also take 1-2 coats).

So I've done a lot of mopping in my day. Over 2 decades combined working at vet clinics and restaurants, both of which are mopped daily.

Throw out the cheap sponge mops, twirl mops and gimmicky mops. Get a mop bucket with a wringer and a mop handle with a detachaable, washable mop head. I prefer the plastic attachment to the metal on the mop. I've seen the metal get all rusty. This is the mop bucket I got.. It's decent, just feels a little cheap compared to the more commercial ones I'm used to. I would rather a bucket like this which is more sturdy, but I was trying to save money.

For mop heads, do yourself a favor and spend a couple extra dollars and get the kind with the loopy ends that are stitched across like this, instead of the ones that are all loose and cut like this.. The loose ones come apart in the washing machine and get all tangled. I like to have 2 mop heads that I rotate.

Now for the mopping. Make sure you sweep/vacuum before mopping. I find dust mops work best for cleaning up fur and hair. Use hot water in the bucket, and the add your cleaner according to the instructions on the bottle. I've used Pinesol/Mr. Clean/Lysol all with about the same results. Thoroughly wet your mop and then ring it out in the mop bucket. Mop your floors in an figure eight pattern going with the grain of the wood for wood/laminate floors. For wood and laminate floors, it's important not to have too wet of a mop. You do not want puddles of water on your floor as this can damage the floors in the long run. Rewet and ring out the mop frequently.

If I have time, I will sometimes go over my floors a second time with something like Pledge floor cleaner. for shine. These cleaners are not meant to be diluted with water, but applied directly to the floors.

This is not the most exciting video, but it shows the two cleaner process I use as well. You may notice that her mop head attachment is rusted, and she does not use the loopy mop head. Obviously it's not wrong, I just prefer slightly different tools. (She does have the better mop bucket).

If you are a visual learner, there are a bunch of YouTube videos with professional cleaners showing good mopping techniques.

What part of the country are you in? That looks like it might be bluestone, in which case it is unlikely the stone is deteriorating. I have a bluestone random flag natural stone set in concrete (it looks very similar to yours) throughout my house and it is tough as nails. In fact at one point someone jackhammered a portion of the floor (probably to get at the floor heating system beneath),and the only way you can tell is that the concrete is a slightly different color and a bit rougher. It looks like they lifted the stone out unsplit and just laid it back down in the new concrete bed.

I don't think you need to seal it for protection though the slight shine is attractive - but it seems to wear off quickly. There was some sort of sealant on the floors when we bought our house, but it didn't even last the year and the floors look great without it. I did contact a bluestone supplier and asked about sealing my floor because i thought it might be necessary, and they said they had never heard of doing that to natural stone, which surprised me frankly, but honestly, in the 10 years I've owned the house it has never seemed like something that was necessary.

As to cleaning, I used to use a fantasitic product called Sofix which cleaned and gave a slight shine. https://www.amazon.com/Sofix-Stone-Floor-Cleaner-Liter/dp/B000ASSBY4 The liquid was blue and using it to clean really played up the color of the stone (and didn't seem to harm the concrete). However, as you can see from the link, it is unavailable and has been for the last 6 months. I keep checking Amazon every few months to see if it will reappear, but no luck yet. I have not found anything comparable unfortunately. Everything else I've tried either wants you to mix the cleaner with water (which seems to just turn everyday dirt into mud), or dries tacky, or smells like a caustic chemical factory, or stains the concrete slightly. Or all of the above. Right now I'm hoarding the few bottles I have left and just spot clean the floors when necessary with dish detergent and as little water as possible.

Some of my stones also seem to have an odd pattern and in one spot looks like a deer walked across it and sunk in to the stone a couple of inches! I think it is just natural variation from splitting the stone and removing occlusions of different material from the slab.

Swiffer's are pretty great for cleaning floors and they aren't expensive. Also get a small vacuum for any carpeting. If you like coffee, definitely get a Keurig. If you're in an area that has cold winters, a comforter for your bed will be important (there are some really cute ones at Target). For when it's warmer out, having a small fan will help the air in your room circulate better. As for LED light strips, this one from Amazon worked really well for me.

Bona's great. I've also like Weiman Floor Cleaner. I'd say even more important is a good
pro grade dry mop for regular dust/grit cleanup (not any of that Swiffer BS). You should be able to find it cheaper at your local hardware store.

Story time: We custom built our house and at the end of the build the GC brought in one hardcore middle aged lady that spent 2-3 days cleaning the ENTIRE damn house from construction zone to spotless. She was superhuman. I was doing touchup painting and made sure to be very respectful of not dirtying up rooms that she had already cleaned and apparently she really appreciated it, as she left one of her dry mops with a nice note wishing us luck in our new house and saying this dry mop was the most important thing we'd need. She was right, you can dry mop an entire floor of the house in just a few minutes and it takes it from "this floor is covered in grit and cat hair" to "nice and clean". Then just proper mop occasionally. If you go too long between proper mops, it can be nice to steam mop to get the tough dirt that won't easily mop out.

well, the most important part of this is how thin do you want your paints to be? Most advice on the internet says to aim for "milky" consistency. This results in the paint being just thin enough that it takes multiple coats to apply a color, but not so thin that it just runs off of the model. Something you could do to acquaint yourself with the way this looks is to buy a small bottle of 2% milk, pour it into a plastic cup and use your paintbrush to "paint" it up the sides of the cup. This should give you an idea of what your final goal could be.

As for materials to thin paint with, you can use several different products:

1. Water - very basic.
   
   
2. Water + future floor polish - the floor polish supposedly helps to break the surface tension of the paint, and gives it a gloss coat, but I have little experience with it.
   
   
3. water + Matte Medium - An acrylic medium that does not alter the color and dries into a matte finish. Can be used with water to thin thicker paints, especially artists acrylics. I like to use some combination of this with most of my paints.
   
   
4. water + Glaze Medium - another medium, does not alter the color, but gives the paint a glossy sheen. Can also be used to make a glaze, similar to a GW Glaze pot.
   
   
5. water + Flow Aid - Flow aid is an acrylic medium that acts similarly to future floor polish, in that it helps to break the surface tension of the paint and let it flow smoother.
   
   
6. water + Flow Aid + Slow-Dri - Using this combo both makes the paint flow smoother off of the brush, as well as increases how long it takes for the paint to dry (both on and off the model!). useful in dry climates or when using some of the more time intensive techniques. Must be used with water, as the slow-dri doesn't work without it.
   
   As you may have noticed, water is a fairly consistent theme. I've hear that you can also use windex + water, but that seems like a waste of a good bottle of windex ;)
   
   Another option, if you are finding it hard to consistently thin the paints, is to use a wet palette. If you keep the wet palette fairly full with water, it will automatically thin down the paint to a certain degree, after which you can add mediums or more water to push it further. It also has the added benefit of keeping the paints wet for an extended period of time. Here is a guide for making your own wet palette to try out: http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/Zpt5gLOoldY1

Wow I love the look of that kit!!! I'll tell you right now, Pledge clear will be your best friend for removing any stress marks or scratches from removing/sanding nubs

http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451352679&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+clear#Ask

As far as clean decal work goes, make sure to clean the surface of the model with a degreaser before applying the decal. Then, after you cut out the decal and soak it, take it out of the water, still on the paper, and slide it straight on to the model.

Awesome! Don’t be shy to share some pics!

If you’re not using it already, the [Pledge Floor Gloss](Pledge Floor Finish Gloss 27 Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YC438C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) definitely helps a lot for the dotting step so it’s worth tracking some down. As I mentioned in one of my replies above, the only way I can tell which of the models were painted with the catgutt wash recipe vs. GW Skeleton Horde is by looking at the dots. The first 5 I painted were without the floor gloss and the dots are not as neat because I was basically trying to paint them on vs. depositing a small bead onto the model.

If you can’t get that stuff where you are, I think you would get similar results using [Acrylic Flow Improver](Winsor & Newton Professional... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060KRGQA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share).

Let me know if I can be of any help as you paint yours up. Catgutt has been really helpful to me and I’m happy to pay it forward!

After painting, I recommend you spray a glosscoat, apply decals, and then spray a final glosscoat; imo I think Sinanjus look better with a glossy shiny finish, but that's just me.

If you have an airbrush or handbrushes, I recommend Future Floor (previously Pledge) as the first (before decals) and last layer of glosscoat.

If that's not your style, there's spray cans as well, such as Mr. Hobby Topcoat.

There's much more info in the sidebar, so if you really want to make it look good, refer to those links if you're on a computer. Really helpful stuff!

Here's an amazon link for Future Floor Polish.


They changed the label a little while back, so it doesn't say Future on it anymore, but it is the same product.

I use this stuff all the time, and it is very effective at tightening joints. If robot disassembly isn't your thing, you can even use an eyedropper or pipette to apply it directly into pinholes and joints.

After curing for 24 hours, even a small amount worked into a joint can make a huge difference.

An extra bonus is that it is fairly water-soluble, so you can undo a tightening or clean off excess with just a little water.

Yeah, that's pretty much the order. Some guys will throw extra layer of gloss here and there, for example between panel lining and decals or after those if they're weathering. That's personal preference though.


As for gloss - it often depends on what you can get locally. Most cost effective option is airbrushing FFA, if you can get your hands on it. As for spray cans, Mr.Topcoat is often recommended. I've had a good experience with it so far, though it is a bit pricey for the amount you get. I'll probably be decanting and airbrushing it for my next project.
If those don't work for you, most other major paint manufacturers like Tamiya, Vallejo, AK, Testors and so on have a gloss coat (sometimes called varnish) in their lineup.

1)I disagree. I tried 6 different flat topcoats, and by far the FLat Acrylic Crystal clear is the best deal. For $5 bucks you get a can that is more than enough to finish 2-3 HGUC kits.

Name one other flat coat for roughly the same price/amount ?

2) For decals you should buy Pledge Multipurpose Polish (rebranded Future Floor wax). That bottle will last you the rest of your Gunpla career. All you have to do is brush it on where you are going to put your decals, let it dry for a bit and then apply your decals. Another trick (that I did with better results) was you can put your decals on first and then brush on the future floor wax afterwards. This seals in the decal even better, hides the decal edges even better and GURANTEES that your decals will not silver. The only negative to brushing on clear coat is that there is a slight "edge" to the clear coat if you look at it at certain angles.

After that apply your Flat coat as usual

I prefer washes and usually use Vallejo washes. Usually Vallejo oil. If you want to use gloss coat by had, check out this. It can be used both by hand and in an airbrush. It will give you a gloss coat to use with a wash. It is acryllic so don't scrub too hard but it can work very well.

I usually put the wash down and let it sit for a couple seconds then wipe away with my finger. If you want to get really fancy, wipe in the direction you would think rain would move the oil stain down the suit. Example 1 and Example 2. This will give you a pretty good looking run mark for the rain pushing oil or rust down from the site. Take into account where it may gather, then go from there. You can use water and a q-tip if you don't want to use your finger. If you scrub too hard with that it will also strip away the gloss coat. It does take a bit to do that though.

It's called Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish in the US, and goes by various names around the world. Walmart carries it, costs around $6 for a bottle that could clear coat hundreds of models.

It also works pretty well on floors :)

https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1493385925&sr=8-3&keywords=pledge+floor+care

Maybe you don't have to go to all that trouble. Ever hear of DriTac?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwBoU2iCWDE

https://www.amazon.com/DriTac-Floor-Repair-Kit-Engineered-Flooring/dp/B001OKA1LS

It's not perfect, but it's pretty good. Read the reviews on Amazon. I've used it myself, and it did what it was supposed to. Saved me some grief......

Future is used rather often as a clear coat. A bottle of the stuff will effectively last a lifetime.

Concerning decal solutions, either one should be fine. I've used both microsol/set or Tamiya Mark Fit Strong, depending on how cooperative the decals are.

If it has become foggy from micro-cracking as larwk mentioned you may want to try Future floor finish. It is an acrylic coating that will fill scratches and cracks amazingly well and self-levels beautifully leaving a crystal-clear surface on plastic. It is a tried and tested procedure in the model-making world. Check out this page for a lot more info on its use. Obviously you'd want to try it out on a small area first, but even if it doesn't work for you it is easy to remove with a quick alcohol wipe. You'd also want to use nothing more than a mild detergent to clean it after it is applied and dried.

I use acrylic paints so I use my airbrush to seal it with Pledge Ultimate Floor care (Used to be called Pledge with Future and is much cheaper at Lowe's than Amazon) acrylic sealer. I then add my decals and weathering then spray the entire model with the varnish I will be using. Either glass, matte, or satin.

The major modeling paint companies all have good top coat and varnish options out. Also, check out some videos on YouTube. There are some great resources out there too.

I’ve had very good luck with Flooraid:

Multi-Surface Floor Cleaner Liquid - Vinyl, Ceramic Tile, Stone, Laminate & Hardwood Floor Cleaner - Biodegradable, Non-Toxic, Eco Cleaning Product (24 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLHGS70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H0mYDb39PX2T3

Also have heard good things about Mrs Meyers cleaners.

Thats not the correct stuff.

this is the stuff you need, It comes in a clear bottle, This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish-27-Ounce-Bottles/dp/B0034792NM

Also, don't use a spray bottle, thats nowhere near an even-enough spray pattern. You need an airbrush to really apply it properly, or manually brush it on, you get different results with each. (You can dip clear parts in it to get super clear canopies/windows)

You've done a great job, especially considering it's your first and you chose an airplane - they're generally a little more difficult than armor. Is that a Typhoon? What's next in your build queue?

Like another commenter here said, before applying decals, put down a gloss coat. I've found that [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and this work well. After getting the decals on, then seal them in with another coat, and you can do your weathering without worrying about damaging them. You might want to use Microsol or Markfit when doing the decals - those solutions soften the decal and you don't get the "draping" effect over little surface details. Just be careful and test with the least important decals first, some kits have really thin decals that get destroyed. Other kits have thick decals that need repeated applications of Markfit strong to soften.

If you ever want to make more transparent masks, I highly recommend Future...oh right they changed the name. [Johnson bought it off] (https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1478320050&sr=8-1&keywords=Future+shine+floor+wax), but it's the same formula. What you do is pour a bit into a cup, mix in a little dye/acrylic paint to your desired color, and then dip the mask in and leave it in there. No chance of mask melting/deforming, and a nice and clean process.

I found this last year and tried it on my mafex Batman and it worked!!

how to

link to floorcare

Works like a charm. Hope it helps

I am allergic to cats as well. Luckily my fur monster is hypoallergenic, but I completely empathize with your girlfriend! I believe that battling allergies to pets requires a two-pronged approach. Make sure you are handling both the dust/fur and saliva aspect of your cats. Here are some of my suggestions if you are not already doing them:

Dust & fur:

• clean sofas, chairs, cat towers, etc. as well. I use this every other day. Try to do the dusting & vacuuming yourself so that your girlfriend has limited exposure to the dust and fur. Let the air settle in an area/room before reentering post-dusting.
  
  
• look into air purifiers. They can be pricey, but it's worth the investment if you really need it.
  
  
• brush daily and occasionally bathe your cats especially if they are long-haired & shed a lot
  
  
• if your cats have specific hangout areas on hard surfaces, such as sinks or top of fridge, use something like this daily, and avoid just sweeping the dust away/into the air with a brush or duster!
  
  
  Saliva: again, brush daily and bathe occasionally. Wash hands after playtime, avoid getting licked if possible. Clean your cats' toys if possible, especially those that are handled often.
  
• this sounds kind of weird, but both the cats and her nails should be trimmed short. Cat scratches can be very itchy, but the buildup under and sharpness of long human nails can aggravate itching a lot.
  
  Medication really depends on her range and severity of symptoms, but this is my advice for just the itching:
  
  
• if she is always itching, she should be taking a 2nd generation antihistamine daily (Claritin, Allegra, Zyrtec). The timing for dosing depends on her flares and interaction with the cats.
  
  
• whether she has just itchy hives or eczema, products with colloidal oatmeal can provide much relief. Aveeno's products works wonders.
  
  
• lotions will absorb quickly. ointments typically provide more and longer-lasting relief compared to creams, but they can be more difficult/annoying to apply and retain on the skin. You might want to keep these things in mind when purchasing anti-itch creams like calamine or hydrocortisone

One source. Look for Pledge or Johnson’s product that has terms like future floor care, floor care with future shine, etc. Here in the US it is about $5-7 USD in most stores in the floor care aisle. I got some in the UK that was a tad cloudy, but it dried just as clear. I forget the name...

The original name, back in the 70’s, was Future. We all call it that today who were introduced to its features then.

Pledge floor wax, under plastic wineglasses from Walmart to keep the dust out while drying.

Put the pledge into a dropper bottle, you can apply a drop directly to the area you want to work with and push around with a brush. Because it takes a few minutes to dry, it self levels out the brush strokes, but you should cover it while drying to keep clean of dust and hair.

Use as protective layer, mix with paint as glaze, apply before doing chipping, or seal whole mini and then airbrush, because overspray is much easier to remove from clear coat than from paint.

Thin coats, and try to leave surface level while it dries, since it dries slower than other products, you don't want it sliding down hill.

Frankly it has so many uses I'm still exploring.
Use anywhere you would use lahmian medium, and most places you would use ardcoat. It's about seventy times cheaper, so you can afford to experiment.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_xSd8BbJQS4J8Q

I was able to get mine pretty clear from using a coat of Pledge Floor Gloss. It's a technique that modelers use for clear parts. I've been playing around with it.

Pledge Floor polish is the best option for tightening most joints as well as ports. Takes a bit to dry, but it doesn't damage the plastic, it's reversible and one bottle is enough for the rest of your life.

This video explains how to apply it properly (he uses it for a port around the 5:30 mark, but I recommend watching the whole thing).

Not sure why this hasn't been suggested yet, but Pledge Future floor polish works as an amazing gloss top coat. It's cheap and comes in large quantities. For about $5, you will have all you need for year.

Here's a link to what I bought, and here's a link on how you should use it!

I have one dwarf whose like that. If you want to try to fix it, put a drop of super glue or plege floor finish on his hips and work the joints for a few minutes to get it inside and it'll dry while your still moving the legs and that should help tighten them up.

After you finish building and doing the primary paint, put on a coat of Future (that is the brand)- it will be shiny, but this will help protect the model and let you decal and weather it easier. After you get the decals on and your weathering (including panel lines), you can go shiny with another coat of Future, or go matte (normal) with a spray matte finish ($few at your local model store, or here is the one I like).

Your comment led me to do some googling which led to me ordering this kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OKA1LS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Will give it a shot, worst that can happen is I have to tear up and replace some cheap flooring....which is the only other solution I can think of....

I'm surprised you were downvoted, the cause of creaking is usually little gaps. Drilling and filling is the simplest way to fill a gap without making a big project out of it. Sure it may not solve it for a lot of reasons, but conceptually its a great idea!

I like the Pledge Floor cleaners for gloss. The regular multi surface cleaner is good, but you might want a product like this.

Bezos is your friend. Kind of.

https://smile.amazon.com/Dap-63004-Purpose-Cleaner-4-Pound/dp/B000KKO8B2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=283AK8H2XNAQ2&keywords=trisodium+phosphate&qid=1551299099&s=gateway&sprefix=triso&sr=8-1

the absolute cheapest route, and safest for paint compatability, is Pledge (aka Future Floor Polish). https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1504883161&sr=8-1&keywords=future+floor+polish

It is super tough, doesn't yellow, and will not react poorly with any type of paint. Oh, and you can brush or spray it on.

Cheers mate. Simple green over here doesn't exist, variation of is rubbish. I've read so many things to use, dettol, cheap disinfectant, nitromors, meths. I just want an easy solution, I don't want to have to scrub the buggers. I've a memory from being a kid and using nail varnish remover and the paint just going a smudgy mess that came off in strings, it was such a pita I never attempted it again.

I'm also struggling to find some future at a decent price, I'm pretty sure this is the stuff but it's quite pricey.
I'm wondering whether this is the same. Reviews on both say they're both the right stuff. I'm annoyed as thought it was easy to get in the UK and left two massive bottles of it in Aus when I moved. I've got an empty Tamiya paint pot of it and then it's gone.

Time to have a crack at my exhaust! Once again it's a pity to strip as she looks pretty good to me!

Thanks!

I was thinking of putting some airbrush advice on here, but I figured that most newbies are a long way off from getting an airbrush.

Regarding thinning for airbrushing: I use future floor polish. It's a really thin, clear acrylic that I learned about during the hours of research I did before buying an airbrush. I think it's an old scale modeler's trick.

Not only is this Lemon pledge good for getting votes, but it also keeps your furniture clean and smelling nice. Now good for floors too.

That same product has been renamed/rebranded several times over the years.

Good thing though, once you buy a bottle you won't need to buy another one for probably 20 years :)


And yes, Pledge Revive It floor gloss. I grabbed some at Walmart, but it's available all over.


https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C

To seal metallics the secret is to use Pledge acrylic clear floor finish. you can put it on as soon as the paint dries and it will dry to a hard shiny clear coat that won't dull the metallic sheen. https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1496411036&sr=8-3&keywords=pledge+floor+care

Pledge future floor finish -- works great as a gloss coat (as well as for tightening loose joints). Just load it into your airbrush and spray. I've always wondered.. how did the first person figure that out?

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-11182-Future-Acrylic-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=pd_sim_hpc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0V7FEZ3QPJY6C4AH1R4S

Future floor finish is the best way. Paint a little on the joint and it evens itself out into the crevices and tightens it up. Plus it can be removed if you end up with too much in the joint.

Pledge Floor Polish

Does that brand of floor polish work? I've always been told that the floor polish of choice for tightening joints and protecting/clarifying clear plastics is Pledge with Future Shine (which is now called Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss).

I believe its going by "Pledge Floor Gloss" now. Pledge 11182 Revive It Floor Gloss, 27 Ounce, Clear Transparent Liquid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mdqtDbTEVY54R

Pledge 11182 Revive It Floor Gloss, 27 Ounce, Clear Transparent Liquid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eVvZBbA92KC50

use this

https://smile.amazon.com/Pledge-FloorCare-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B00J5HDC4A/ref=sr_1_46?keywords=PLEDGE+POLISH&qid=1568061587&s=gateway&sr=8-46

works as a sealer as well if you do customs. do multiple coats until you get the desired tightness. cheap and will last you a long time.

SC Johnson Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish 27 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zNDgAbMQ8BW87

Ich möchte Dir diesen Artikel bei Amazon.de empfehlen
S C JOHNSON WAX - Floor Care, 27-oz.
von BIC WAREHOUSE
Weitere Informationen: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_jdo0AbNRAT8DZ

Sepakers: Sony SRS D4 (these are pretty old)
Wood stain: Varathane Premium Dark Walnut - https://www.amazon.com/Varathane-211807-Premium-Stain-Walnut/dp/B000C014X0

If they are too loose you can tighten them by applying a super thin layer of clear nail polish on the peg and letting it dry for 48 hours.

However personally I use future floor polish aka pledge floor polish
http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451296160&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+floor+shine

dip the peg in it vertically [hand up, peg down] and then just tap the end of the peg on a paper towel. let it dry 24 hours.

if its too loose still, repeat!

Pledge floor polish https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1505500753&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+multi+surface+finish
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Y54nqFbXz4o
Worked great on the loose ankle of my Mezco Commander Rogers 👍

Try this method. It works incredibly well. I have just recently used it on some completely cloudy and scratched up transparent pieces and I could hardly believe the result; the pieces became shiny and transparent again with no scratches or cloudiness remaining!: http://thebrickblogger.com/2012/04/make-your-clear-lego-shine/

Please note that the Pledge product mentioned in the article has been re-named. It is now called Pledge FloorCare and the reference to Future Shine has been taken out. But if you read the instructions on the bottle, you will see it is still the same liquid acrylic. I'm linking to the product listed on Amazon so you see how the bottle now looks like, but you can also get it at any Wal-Mart store: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034792NM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0034792NM&linkCode=as2&tag=thebriblo-20

> How would I make the Primer smoother without sanding and just out of the Airbrush? Like those Mr. Surfacer or near their quality

You're not. Hobby paints are made using much finer pigment that gives it that smooth finish. That's why they cost more money. If they didn't have an advantage over $1 spray cans no one would buy them. Straining might help, but it's never going to be as smooth as the expensive hobby primers.

>How would I make the Gloss Coat more glossier?*

If you are looking for a cheap gloss coat buy some Future Floor Polish. You can spray it straight out of the airbrush or thin it with rubbing alcohol. I don't know of a way to make an existing paint glossier. Maybe try buffing afterwards?

When sanding what should I look for to know I'm done and that topcoat will be enough to cover the remaining scratches? I dont want to under or overdo it.

How important is a topcoat before panel lining? I've seen people say Tamiya can hurt the plastic.

I've also seen this (Pledge FloorCare Multi Surface Finish - 27 oz - 2 pk https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5HDC4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0eCwDbFDB8MV2) recommended for a glossy topcoat since it helps the panel liner flow but how do I put it on? Do I just buy a sprayer to screw into the top?

Is there a paint/enamel thinnning guide anywhere?

Thanks. I bought MopGlo because it's all they had at the store, so I'm going to give that a shot on a cheap HG.

Yep! Also, for the record, Future floor polish is an amaaaaaaaaazing clear coat paint if you have an airbrush.

This is what I have — not sure what the current equivalent is.

Maybe this: SC Johnson Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish

I've heard that a dip in this is helpful (dip and dry; don't polish).

they make this stuff called [Dritac](http://DriTac Wood Floor Repair Kit-Engineered Flooring ONLY 32oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OKA1LS) that is a glue you inject into the area with a syringe, might help

SC Johnstons floor wax, depending on where you live there might be a different name for it, and harder or less hard to find.

Clean out your airbrush thoroughly with Windex (or any cleaning agent of choice) and then water (to remove any ammonia from the Windex) afterwards.

Like this, for example: https://smile.amazon.com/Gladwell-Cordless-Electric-Mop-Scrubber/dp/B07JMHCKT2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=Gladwell&qid=1562036976&s=gateway&sr=8-2

I forego the swiffer all together. The pads don't last long enough to do my floors once.

I use a Bona Floor Cleaner mop

http://www.amazon.com/Bona-WM710013350-Microfiber-Floor-Mop/dp/B001AH5G38/ref=sr_1_17?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1412344810&sr=1-17&keywords=bona+hardwood+floor+cleaner

It came with one pad and I bought a two pack of replacement pads.

They are washable and do a great job on my floors. I just use a cheap squirt bottle and some fabuloso. Its 2 bucks and makes like 10 gallons of cleaning solution. I just spritz the area I want to clean, mop it over and move on. If the floor is really dirty I will use a second pad, but usually one does it. (I have dogs so it sometimes needs to be pressure washed lol)

1:4 vinegar/water solution. Destroys mildew and is very, very cheap. Don't use on safety straps though.

Or buy some of this. It's what they put in those Clorox wipes, but without getting ripped off. Stick it in a spray bottle and use paper towels.

Zunrs128 Zep No-Rinse Floor Disinfectant Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B85XGT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SWpYBbAHW8S2G

A gallon will last you like 5 years.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_BKGLBb4NB363Q
This is the latest branding of the original formula

Np. They keep changing the label - I guess this is what it looks like now: https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C

I lose track because one bottle will last you forever so it's changed a couple of times since I needed to buy any.

"Pledge" or "Future" refers to a certain brand of floor finish that (surprisingly) can be used as a gloss coat. This stuff.

For a guide:
http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide-top-coat-guide (it's a bit far down)

Here's the Future stuff via Amazon

Here's a link to the product on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1509879400&sr=8-3&keywords=pledge+floor&dpPl=1&dpID=415e8X8G5yL&ref=plSrch

I've heard that Pledge is a good gloss coat but I'm not sure what I should be buying in the uk.
Is this the right stuff https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Klear-Multi-Surface-Wax/dp/B008HFVO32/
Or should I get this which costs quite a bit more https://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C/

I don't know if this is the same thing, but this is what it is called in the US:

https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=pd_ys_sabia_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000ARPH4C&pd_rd_r=CW9AAWMC30ZWVK35FC7G&pd_rd_w=nalg6&pd_rd_wg=OIdH9&psc=1&refRID=CW9AAWMC30ZWVK35FC7G

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Future-Surface-Protect-Restore/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509921459&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+floor+care+finish

This is the stuff I use.

Same with Future Floor Polish - do people actually use that stuff on floors...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C

Pledge FloorCare Multi Surface Finish - 27 oz - 2 pk https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5HDC4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NUDvCbQYT6FKQ


Applied through an Air-Brush in very thin coats.


Used it on my knights.

Knight house WIP https://imgur.com/gallery/2AZswdv

Pledge FloorCare Multi Surface Finish - 27 oz - 2 pk https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5HDC4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LUoQDb2T6FJZN

This stuff. This is a two pack, I'm just linking so you know what to look for. One bottle will be enough to last you a decade.

I don't believe that's the same. This is what you're looking for. And as far as I know, you can use a paintbrush.

27oz Pledge Futureshine

Here you go. Pledge keeps rebranding it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034792NM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_TotSCb5B751T6

This right here is what I'm using. It doesn't say future on the bottle but it's the exact same formula, just reskinned. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't find any information on this pledge on the swammymodels future guide. Is this the same as the 2015 formula of the multi surface finish? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1AKT0EVAUPPAX&psc=1

I ordered this a couple days ago https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1. According to one of the answered questions, this is the same product, just renamed yet again.

Is this the brand you use?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1493221253&sr=8-1&keywords=future+floor+wax

This is the one I use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the correct floor wax. Got this, two weeks ago. And have been running it through my airbrush gloss coating everything with out issue.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YC438C/ref=mp_s_a_1_8_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1521409024&sr=8-8&keywords=pledge+floor+care+finish




This is it

Future floor finish.

If it works on figures, it probably works on gunpla.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AKT0EVAUPPAX

That's not the same as I use, from the looks of the back it's not an acrylic like the "Floor Finish". You might want to look for this bottle. Or just order it online.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C


I also remember it being called klear in the uk but I'm not 100%

I'd advise against plastic cement. This will degrade the plastic, as it welds two pieces of plastic together rather than merely adhering them. Instead, get some Future Floor Polish (an acrylic that is no longer called 'Future' but is always referred to as such) and brush it onto the piece you want to thicken:

https://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1464798175&sr=8-1&keywords=future+floor+polish

Will this work? I also have some loose joints to fix

https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/

Which part is floppy?

You can cover the floppy joints with layers of this stuff till it's no longer floppy.

NO!! it is laquer based and may cause the acrylic paint to run. A lot of people use this Future floor care its cheap and lasts for ever and will not damage acrylics.