(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best household paint & primers

Edit: I'M SO SORRY FOR THE ACCIDENTAL CLICKBAIT, THEY ARE JUST STYLED LIKE A PRO-CONTROLLER, MY FAULT

After seeing the countless posts of other custom shell swaps, I figured I had waited long enough to do my own, but with a little modern twist, in this case making them look similar to the pro-controller. I think it turned out really well!

Parts/Items List

• Transparent Shells w/ D-Pad
  
• Tool Kit
  
• Black Spray Dye
  
• Matte Spray Finish
  
  Disassembly
  
  The first thing I did, was obviously taking apart my original (Neon Red) shells to be able to switch the parts into my painted shells. I decided against using the transparent battery trays, and instead opted to spray paint them matte black, as it darkens the whole joy-con overall, and it was a very simple paint job. For disassembly and reassembly I used Spawn Wave's Video as it was the clearest, but most concise video I'd found, but any tutorial works fine. The tool kit I linked works wonders, and has everything you'll need, from tri-point screwdrivers to little pliers. I then took all the disassembled pieces and set them into separate containers so I wouldn't lose anything.
  
  Painting
  
  To start off, I washed all the shell pieces with some water, and let them dry, just so no dust particles got trapped. I made a little spray painting "rig" with some cardboard pieces so I could set the front shells on top and ensure I sprayed all sides evenly. I started with 6-7 fairly light coats of the Tamiya Smoke Dye, and made sure it was the right darkness, before letting it dry a few hours. I waited 3 minutes between coats, making sure I sprayed evenly on all pieces. Only issue I did have with the smoke was that it run out of paint right after the final coat, so be aware of that.
  
  Following the dye drying, I sprayed two coats of the Krylon Matte paint, before again letting it dry for a couple hours. I wish I had gone a little lighter on the matte, as a little more transparency would've been awesome, but I honestly can't complain with the final product.
  
  Wrap-Up
  
  After they had completely dried, I slipped the pieces back into the shells (once again following Spawn Wave's video) and sealed it up. Overall it wasn't too difficult a process, but if there are any tips I'd suggest, I would recommend making sure to apply a fair bit of pressure when unscrewing and screwing on the screws. I was close to stripping the phillips head screws on the analog sticks, but luckily I avoided that entirely. One issue I did have with the shells, was that the plus button isn't quite as clicky as before, but it really is only a minor issue. All-in-all I'm very happy with them, and they've got a great matte texture that feels good on the hands. If you've got any questions or clarifications, let me know and I'll help you out!
  
  

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

GW sprays have a very high cost, and people have had numerous complaints about how runny they are.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470015a&prodId=prod1200064

It's always been suspicious that GW is very reluctant to ever call their sprays "primer" even though that's the advertised intent of the sprays. They call them "spray paints" and "undercoat", but never primer... even on the bottle itself.

Even more odd is that their sprays used to be labeled "primer". They dropped that ever since they revamped the cans. The White spray they have on their site is an image of the old can, you cannot get sprays that have that labeling anymore:

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470015a&prodId=prod1200062

Again, opinions of course. If you want inexpensive yet good, I've heard good things from Krylon primers:

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-51315-All-Purpose-Interior-Decorator/dp/B001B73WCO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367785170&sr=8-1&keywords=krylon+primer

If you want expensive yet (arguably) great, I use and love Army Painter primers. The nozzle never clogs, and the spray is really really strong and clean. I've found that even when I spray too closely and seem like I've obscured the model details, the paint dries and everything is fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Matte-White-Primer/dp/B004VEO5FM/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1367785212&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=army+painter+primer

Couldnt resist the sns sale on this pair for about $130. and i knew id be blacking out that boost before i bought. (sorry dont see it available any longer, but its on goat and stockx for 120-160ish depending on size.) i wanted to try the full angelus method since heskicks said it lasted on youtube, and it took me 3 days on and off this weekend.

full photo album progress here with comparison pix in different steps of the method and against "OEM" black adidas boost https://imgur.com/a/5RE2d

STEPS

Day 1 – deglaze and dye. Deglazed before dinner, painted dye layer 1, wait 10 mins then dye layer 2. Let dry overnight.

Day 2 – Dye reducer. Feelgoodkicks on youtube said this was important to eliminate cracking and that purpleish sharpie-like tint, so I tried it. Make sure to very lightly roll a Q-tip over your dye work, otherwise else you can completely remove all your work. Later that day I painted with the flat black paint. Waited 10 mins then did a 2nd layer.

Day 3 – Acrylic Paint. Wait 10 mins and do a 2nd layer. Still looked too glossy to me, so I masked the upper and sprayed with krylon later that day. And a 2nd layer a few mins after as the instructions state to get my finished product. Also added alternate laces and gunmetal grey aglets. Didnt end up using the mink oil since Im worried the boost will gloss up, but I still might try some later.


OVERALL TIPS

With any painting, take your time and do LIGHT layers to prevent chipping/cracking as much as possible.

I didnt mask the upper when painting since i went slowly, but paint brushes are actually easier to use very close to the primeknit than the sharpies were. I normally painted that upper edge first, then used a larger brush to paint the main part of the boost.

Krylon spray was a must. Album has a comparison photo with just angelus finish and its super glossy compared to the krylon finish. Using krylon finish alone, however, the paint rubbed off the boost whenever i touched it. so gotta do both

PREVIOUS POST (sharpie method)

https://www.reddit.com/r/Sneakers/comments/7thl9p/iniki_boost_blackout_oil_based_sharpie_matte/

Since the previous sharpie method rubbed off a bit on my fingers, I retouched with the anglus acrylic finish and then krylon again to get it more matte. Seemed to do the job.

I think for the sharpie method id have to add deglazer and angelus finish. so a total of 4 purchases would be good (deglazer, sharpie, angelus acrylic finish, krylon matte finish)



PRODUCT LINKS

Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer 4 Oz - $6.60
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU322DQ

Angelus Brand Leather Dye W/applicator - 3 Oz ''Jet Black'' - $6.75
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016QV7XIS

Angelus Acrylic 4 Ounce Paint (Flat Black) - $8.49
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MPXF6XG

Angelus Brand Acrylic Leather Paint Matte Finisher No. 620 - 4oz - $7.59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5W4LX4

Krylon Matte Finish - $3.47
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ENZ8CS

Heartybay Nylon Paint Brush Set - $5.98
https://www.amazon.com/Heartybay-10Pieces-Round-Pointed-Nylon/dp/B00V4EG6D6

I would use a primer. It will give something for the paint to really bind to because metal is non-porous. Make sure you get a metal primer.

Rust-Oleum Automotive Rust Primer: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249331-Automotive-12-Ounce-Primer/dp/B003CT4AO8/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479909567&sr=1-2&keywords=metal+primer

I prefer using Rustoleum brand. They have automotive enamel paints and they look great. I just used this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UE7MW4/ref=twister_B002LSIFOC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

On my lug nuts and they look great. A good gloss finish too. There are many paints you can use, just stay away from arts and crafts-y paints and make sure its good for metal use. As long as you use several even, thin coats of paint on top of primer, you should be in good shape!

Also, I would recommend repainting the whole wiper blade. It will look spotty if you don't plus its small enough that it should not take much more time to do. Happy Detailing!

Yep, this.

• I do 120 or 150 grit to keep a smooth base so no sanding marks make it through the paint.
  
• Wash with soap and water and let air dry over night before starting to paint.
  
• Get a decent primer that says it works on plastics -- I use Rustoleum primer and it's a general use + plastic primer.
  
• Adhere to your dry times religiously. If it says recoat within 1 hour or after 24 hours, don't cheat that. At all. There's a reason it has them. Spray paint cures in part by having curing chemicals mixed into the paint evaporate. If you spray an extra coat before those chemicals have evaporated much at all, it's fine. If you wait for them to completely evaporate, great, they're gone and the paint is cured. If they're in the process of curing though, you'll mess up the coat beneath. It's awful.
  
• I would also highly recommend a top coat of some kind. I really like Rustoleum Clear Gloss Automotive Enamel It's the toughest top coat I've ever used and offers a glossy finish that's not mirror-sheen glossy like you'd get from Krylon Triple-Thick Glaze Put two light coats, then the last one till it looks nice and wet and it's fantastic. Let it cure for a day or two so it hardens -- full hardness in a week as stated on can.
  
• A single-pass light sanding with 600-grit (450+ would likely work) between base coat and top coat can also help adhesion of the top coat. Just be really light with it. Optional.
  
  Here's my QFR that I painted. It has a fair few process pictures.

Honestly, you already know what you could have done that you didn't. That said, they're pretty good for a first timer. If you're going to paint Reaper minis, priming them is key. I have used the Master Series paints that are designed tip work with the Bones line, and even though Reaper says you don't need to prime, you do. I use their black paint on primer, and I have good results. I wish I had a decent camera to take pics of my work.

Enjoy the hobby, and nothing else. Your free time and money just found a new place to go...

**oh! Nearly forgot. If you decide to go the route of spray on primer, I've used with great results, Krylon primer. Buy it local, it's cheap.

I have a few questions about enamel washing. I'm planning on using: Panel-Accent-Color and

thinner

Are there any alternatives to the thinner that I can use that are sold locally?

My real questions come with the step process of the enamel wash. I've been looking at multiple guides and reddit post and they differ. From what I've come to understand the step are as follows:

1)Before panel lining, apply a top coat.

2)enamel wash

3)Cotton swab and thinner

4)Final top coat, if I'm done building.

For my top coat I'm planning on using Matte Top coat. So if I'm using these materials, I would spray the part with the top coat, then I would apply the panel lines with the Tamiya panel line product, using the thinner I would carefully and gently clean the blobs that are outside of the panel lines. After I'm all done, I would spray one final top coat.

If I'm using these exact same materials does my coat before panel washing have to be different than my top coat when I'm done building?

I'm not planning on painting the kits any time soon.(Underlined text are the questions)

Sorry for the lengthy post and thanks for your help!

on my most recent bouquet i used this and so far so good with it! although in the past i've honestly just used regular hairspray and that's worked just as well.

just remember that they will be brittle no matter what so i suggest putting them in a plastic box if you're just wanting to store them or a glass display case (like this or this - or even a shadow box that can be found at most craft stores!) if you want them on display!

if they've made it this far, putting them in a protective case is probably your best bet overall because the moisture is already dried out & they're more at risk of being damaged by being bumped & moved than anything else really.

hope this was somewhat helpful & best of luck!! :)

I'm a really big fan of liquitex paints from hobby lobby. Big bottles are great and you can just dump a ton of paint on it. They're actually pretty good quality acrylics, and I use them for larger monsters/minis... although the pigments aren't small enough to use with small detail work.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Painting-Supplies/Acrylic-Painting/Liquitex-Basics-Acrylic-Paint-Set---6-Pieces/p/80855309?gclid=CjwKCAjw7anqBRALEiwAgvGgm1hefM4EKJg1N9jPOgKUT9oZ4Kfx8dB1YrgIencoSQwYghpiOmeFGhoCwRsQAvD_BwE

​

Also, I almost always just base my terrain with either black, gray, or white primer. Then apply my paints in layered highlights until I get the effect I want. It works well enough and saves a significant amount of time.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249058-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWORRW/ref=asc_df_B002BWORRW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198077767340&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7988992819377697018&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019109&hvtargid=pla-343196559114&psc=1

(The red primer is actually a nice brown, and I use it as my basecoat for most things wooden. I just apply a highlight of a light brown acrylic and I'm done)

EDIT: I just realized this is Terraino subreddit. Careful with this paint on foam as I've only tested it on 3D printed and injection molded parts.

Primary Items:

• 7-pack of 11x14" Canvases: $17.98

• 1 qt Floetrol: $6.97

• Silicone oil: $14.99

• Liquitex High Gloss Varnish: $13.32

• Acrylic Paints: ~$1 each (I bought 4)

• Popsicle sticks: ~5.00

• TOTAL COST: $62.26

​

It's a tad pricy up front (I got most of this for my birthday), but several of these things will last me many pours. The canvases (obviously), the floetrol, the silicone oil, and the popsicle sticks will last for quite some time. It's possible the varnish will as well - I'm not sure yet, I haven't varnished my first canvas yet. Really the paint seems to be the thing that will run out the fastest unless you buy large sizes. I did cheap paint for my first pour, just to get kind of an idea, but I really liked how it turned out so I'm not inclined to buy anything more expensive for now. There are some other things that I had on hand an don’t have prices. Items like gloves, plastic cups, a butane torch, and the garbage bag I put under it.

For your first BJD, I'd recommend saving a little longer and buying one with a faceup. A lot of times it can actually end up cheaper than buying all the materials. A lot of sellers have layaway, for example Soom, Denver Doll and Alice's Collections. If you're buying used, some sellers also offer layaway.

If you feel like trying it yourself though, there are lots of tutorials here. You do need sealant (Usually Mr. Super Clear) and special elastic. The elastic is round and very strong, not like elastic meant for sewing. Sometimes really tiny dolls are strung with monofilament, like fishing line. Dolls normally come strung though, so that shouldn't be an issue. Dolls are occasionally sold as kits, but it's not common at all.

I'm not sure why a lot of BJDs look sad; I like to have dolls with a variety of expressions. The great thing about BJDs is that there's so much variety, you can find (or create) any expression you like.

This is how it looks currently. Just replaced the head gasket, rockers, water pump, etc and all that good stuff. I'm gonna paint the trim, bumpers, flares, grill and head light housing, and the thing with the light in it that is over the license plate. I'm also going to remove all the badges and replace them with black ones, including the front "Jeep" badge. However, they don't make a Sport badge like the one I want so it's going to have to be a vinyl decal.

My plan is to take all the trim off, remove reside with goo gone or simple green, sand then clean everything, let it dry and mask it all off with blue tape and brown paper or plastic sheets and go to town on it with a few cans of this. I'll remove the grill and headlight covers and do them separate. As for the red stripe, I'll tape it off and do it with blood red Montana Black spray paint.

Few questions for you guys that did similar jobs already:

• What do I use to seal it?
  
• Do I need automotive sealer?
  
• If so, what brands?
  
• Where is a good place to get new badges (or is it ebay)?
  
  Next upgrades;
  
  
• New front & rear bumpers (suggestions? Don't want a stinger or anything too bulky, needs to have recovery points)
  
• Red LED for the interior dome light
  
• Lund Moon Visor or similar (Polish one on ebay?)
  
• Roof rack (or roof tent?)
  
• Camper conversion? I measured out the cargo and passenger area, after I move my spare I think I'm going to build out a platform and get a memory foam pad so I can camp right in my XJ.
  
  Thanks for reading!

going by what this product page says their clear coat is acrylic based, meaning that in theory putting enamel based products over it should eat it away and ruin your paintjob. However, not all acrylic products are chemically the same. for example Pledge floor care is an acrylic varnish and when applied via aribrush or brush over gunpla it acts as a good gloss coat for the enamel wash.

Your best bet is to go with a lacquer based gloss coat to put your panel line wash over. don't worry as these won't affect your paint underneath as long as your paint has cured. brands that are at the top of my head are tamiya and mr. super clear.

A little late to this, but get some clear spray lacquer https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1906830-Lacquer-Spray-11-Ounce/dp/B0009XCKGA, Home Depot or Lowes will also carry it.

To apply, spray a light coat, dry, 2000+ grit sand paper very light. Repeat 5-10 times. Then use a polish like Novus Plastic Polish -- will only need 2 and then 1 for this use, 3 is for heavy scratches -- https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU to clean up after the last coat.

Glad to answer any other questions

Thanks so much!

Poured on two layers of this epoxy, sanded to 400 grit between each, let them both cure and they came out super glossy so I put down a really thin layer of minwax satin poly. The epoxy definitely brought out a lot of beautiful color and helped fill all the imperfections without covering them up.

If I do ABS (which I doubt...PETG is fine for what I do) I will vent the fan through the wall into the garage as well as sealing up the cut outs. The fan sucks out the back. For the paint I went with spray cans...2 of this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B73WCO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and three of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ6LYFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It is more of a satin finish than semi gloss which I prefer and I lightly sanded between coats. Thanks for the compliment and happy printing!

For those interested I loosely followed this guide. Getting the rubber coating off was a total bitch but the end result was worth it! Since all I had available was glossy paint I opted for a matte clear to achieve the look I was after. The pain used was Rustoleum 2X Gloss Grape and Rustoleum Matte Clear Coat. I'm happy to answer any other questions about the process as well!

Acryllic paint used. Acryllic colors work best on fabric. This converse sneaker uses canvas fabric.

Steps for the artists over here :D

*Shoes must be brand new or crisp clean before painting*

1. Remove shoe laces. Tape the unwanted areas like the sole border on bottom and the rubber toe part with masking tape to prevent accidental paint drips.
   
   
   [Step 2 is required if your base color of shoe is non white. If it's complete white then you can start painting directly. ]
   
   
2. First apply a base coat of white two times over the complete area you are planning to paint.
   
   
3. After base coat start painting stuff you want like colors and stuff.
   
   4)Paint the leaked edges, borders or mistakes you made while painting by covering them with black acryllic paint again. (black used here since the color of sneaker is black so it hides after drying)
   
   5)Once you're happy with the paint, coat it with a sealent spray 2-3 times to prevent the paint form getting exposed to dirt and stuff. Make sure the sealent has matte finish or you shoes will turn out glossy lol. I used this spray sealent
   
   
   EDIT : Added instruction for white sneakers @ step 2
   
   EDIT : Added sealent spray link.

If you’re looking for a matte sealer, maybe you could try Mr. Super Clear?

It’s a very popular sealant in doll customization, I’ve heard good things:

It’s on amazon

I'm not a master artist, and I like to save money where I can, so I've been using Rust-Oleum Specialty Clear Matte Spray ever since I started, and I've been very happy with the results.

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4

That is what is currently being used. I don't see how this helps all that much to be honest. They have been doing this for years though.

We also handling the boards to much imo. We get them from our supplier then program them, test them, spray them then mount them. Ideally it'd be nice to find a company that could send them 100% complete to us. If you have any recommendations that would also be appreciated.

If the metal is rusted through, then it's probably not worth it. But, if the metal is still good underneath I would say to go for it!

Making a really hot fire inside the grill works phenomenally well. After that, I used a sander to get all the rust off I could.

You want to make sure the surface is clean before you paint, and it is helpful to use a primer. For the paint I used a high temperature spray paint designed for the purpose. The surface needs to be clean before you apply it, and you can't apply the paint anywhere that touches open flame.

Quick question, as a complete noobie to Gunpla, I was wondering if these would be the appropriate sprays to use for top coating, both for the gloss, so I could pannel line, and then do the decaling and weathering and obviously then the matte coat.

So would these work for the gloss and matte coats, or are there better options out there. Obviously price isnt to much of an option, as long as its the best bang for the buck.

The first one I've found is the gloss its by Mr.Hobby, called Mr.Super Clear Gloss and the second one was the matte final coat by Tamyia Color called Tamiya Color TS80 Flat Clear

I have refinished a few tabletops using this method:

1. Paint the wood (use spray paint or whatever).
   
2. Print the logo on cardstock paper.
   
3. Cut it out.
   
4. Paste it to the wood using Mod Podge.
   
5. Then, seal it using something like this Pour On Finish. You could also use something like a clear acrylic sealer but this will not be as durable.
   
   Good Luck!

Mine is 22 years old, purchased by my dad new and given to me and still going strong. I work from home so I’m sitting in it 6-10 hours a day 5 days a week. I had to replace the lumbar support bar, the foam pad near the bottom of the seat and the meshing on the seat itself part but otherwise it’s been a dream.

Also, for anyone that has the dark gunmetal gray “base” (is that what it’s called? what the wheels are attached to) the Rust-Oleum in flat metallic soft iron is a perfect match for the factory paint. I have a tendency to put my feet on that part and wear the paint off. Every few years I take it outside and give it a touch up.

I bought this necklace from COS a while back and the gold finish is rubbing off the chain and it's getting a metallic smell. Does anyone have a great solution for this? After about 30 seconds of research I ordered this Krylon spray but I was wondering if anyone knows of a better solution before I spray it down.

That's an interesting idea. Whether you plan on painting the reso bass head or actually just re-coating your batter heads to save money, this stuff is a good place to start: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249058-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWORRW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rustoleum+2x+primer+flat+white&qid=1562532126&s=gateway&sr=8-1

There might be other more textured sprays you can get, but before you spend a bunch of time and a tiny bit of money re-coating old beat up heads you might just consider how nice a brand new head would sound.

since this is a shit advice thread, next time use paint sealant. archival safe and prevents uv fading, which means it has spf and is really great for your skin, right?

This is what I used specifically.

I’m still considering the top coat. I’ve read a lot of people used the Rustoleum crystal clear enamel and then there’s an automotive clear enamel. I’m gonna research that a little more tonight. It has to be good enough that UVs aren’t going to turn it yellow.

Rust-Oleum 271473 Universal All Surface Spray Paint, 11 oz, Flat Metallic Soft Iron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F87S31I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pMLIAbSW0RBNR

The only way I could see to improve it:

On the top, you should paint the runes from the Dimrill Gate: "The way is shut..."

Tips for painting smooth surfaces:

• First, sand lightly with 400-grit sandpaper. Vacuum surfaces, and remove any lingering dust with a tack cloth. Also (as mentioned below) sand between coats.
  
  
• Don't use a paintbrush. Use a small-diameter, smooth-textured foam roller. Alternately (or also) add an additive like Floetrol to help the paint flow out and level more smoothly.

You might try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1906830-Lacquer-Spray-11-Ounce/dp/B0009XCKGA

Krylon brand also makes lacquers like this, so really any clear-drying one i think would work. But test it out on a random perler creation you signed yourself first, and see how you like it.

I thought I read somewhere that when testor's dullcoat changed name the new formula wasn't quite as matte, but idk, I've never tried it. I did try 3 other brands and I will say Krylon Matte is fantastic too and only like $3.50 at Walmart.

The vinyl has to be clean. So washing it to removed dust and debris is a good thing. You can use a pressure washer, but a stiff bristle brush and warm soapy water will also do the job nicely.

To make your chosen paint stick there are two ways to go: use a bonding primer, or use a paint made for plastics.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KILZ-Adhesion-1-Gal-White-Bonding-Interior-Exterior-Primer-L211101/204763136

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02321000-Plastic-Aerosol-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YUDJM

I did it on my old snowboard that was not gonna last the whole season.
-Hand Sanded the board with 120-160 grit paper. (my board has originally more of a matte paint on it then the typical glossy coats).
-I cleaned the top of the board throughly.
-I taped with painters tape all around the sides, I cut Q-Tips in half and put them in the binding screw holes to make sure that paint didn't go in.
-Spray painted with black matte with 2 layers.
-I made stencils out of foam paper, I spray with whatever other colors for the stencils
http://www.michaels.com/creatology-value-pack-foam-sheets/M10287634.html .

-After significant drying, I spray painted with a satin clear coat for protection:
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526492540&sr=1-1&keywords=krylon+clear+coat .

Here is my result:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hZXQJhVugNizjNel1 .

I would have used perhaps a more glossy finish since the snow stuck on the top of my board more than before with the factory paint. It's not something I would do a newer board personally.

Sure! Buy this stuff:

Environmental Technology 8-Ounce Kit Lite Pour-On, High Gloss Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CEMU3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zViGAb88SATC9

There's a couple solutions in the box that you mix together and then pour over your project. It dries to a thick coat of resin. Very cool stuff. Since you're planning on using it as a cutting board, I'd recommend sanding it down a little once dried and applying a food-safe sealant afterward.

If you want a custom color that you cant find in a shell, i recommend Wiggy's guide on painting.
https://rosecoloredgaming.wordpress.com/2013/01/01/wiggy-how-to-and-restoration-guides-2-lets-paint/
Its SUUUUUPER helpful, i suggest this type of paint for the actual color, works wonders.
http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02321000-Plastic-Aerosol-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YUDJM.

Any type of promoter should work just fine, just read the directions, it took me about 2hrs to paint my DMG turquoise, and i let it dry for about 3 days.

Take it from someone who works with 2-5 RA surfaces all day... the finer the finish, the harder it is going to be to protect it - and without the use of liberal sanding or finishing it's going to be rough for you to churn out anything close to what a well programmed CNC lathe capable of 9000+ rpm can do. I use this - https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Flat-Spray/dp/B002DTL7ZS#customerReviews on my models, it holds up very well, I can't imagine it'd do any worse on a top.

>This one doesn't appear to be rated for that. Latex paint requires a much stronger sprayer, as the particles are bigger.

That's incorrect, it is rated for latex paint. I have this one, Earlex HLVP paint sprayer, which is basically the same thing and it works fine. I've mostly used it to paint trim which you want to have as smooth as a finish you can get it. You just have to make sure you have the proper paint volume set and you're thinning properly. For thinning I use a latex paint extender called Flood

Retroreflectives are fuckin cool.

Here's some spray if anyone wants to experiment with stenciling, but there's also tape and all kinds of stuff. Fun when everyone has headlamps.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-214944-Reflective-10-Ounce-Spray/dp/B000LNVC1M

i took the rim off of a 10 gallon tank i got from the dollar per gallon sale at petco. here is the picture. i used about 4 coats of this for the background and it worked flawlessly!

make sure to wear gloves and use some tools to help break the silicone bond

Looks solid and I like that those labels allow full bleed printing, too!

If you get any bleeding, get the Krylon spray for a fast top coat.

Sorry i should have specified a bit more 24 hour cure time that 25 minutes is working time which is standard either way this is what you need

Environmental Technology 8-Ounce Kit Lite Pour-On, High Gloss Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CEMU3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5.YMybZACC512

I'd watch some youtube videos on finishing table tops with epoxy, they are very helpful

So Axon, just to be sure. I want to paint a certain part a flat Matte color. So I'll use a Flat/Matte Coat. If I paint other parts gloss/metallic I'll coat it with a gloss coat, correct?

Would this be a good brand for a flat/matte coat? https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Flat-Spray/dp/B000W30PIW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495418826&sr=8-2&keywords=gundam+matte+spray


And this for a gloss/metallic? https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Gloss-Spray/dp/B000W2YLGA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495418918&sr=8-3&keywords=to+coat+gloss+gundam

I apologize for all the questions and ignorance. I'm about to paint for my first time on an RG Aile Strike. :)

My suggestion is forget the wax. Strip the remaining wax out, and get a product called Envirotex. It's a simple two part epoxy, is food safe, and you can put pretty much any liquid in the horn after. When you do it, there are some procedures (which I can elaborate on if needed) that will ensure a good coating, and will even protect that edge from further chipping.

Now, that said, this post isn't really suitable for this sub. It's not really about heathenry. My suggestion to you is to either PM me if you need more help than this answer, or go ask on /r/SCA. They'll have your answer there for sure if you want other opinions. I'll leave this post up for a short time because I know your problem is a frustrating one to have, but I'm going to have to delete it soon unless you delete it first.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-251574-11-Ounce-Bumper/dp/B005H5P5C6

has the jeep xj on the logo. I used it and loved the results, and it sticks. tried heat gun, this is easier and im more confident with it.

I got back into painting after about a 25 year hiatus, and got the following:

this primer,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BWORRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this paint kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWMTNDJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this wash:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0189BIERC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Really happy with all these products.

I appreciate the feedback so far!

I'm still doing some research. When I went to JoAnn's earlier I explained the situation and had someone recommend the following:

https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-16-Ounce-Pour-Finish/dp/B000LNS9CW

I thought that what's essentially a varnish of sorts was an odd idea, but bought the box as I had a 60% off coupon, and figured I could return it if I end up not using it.

Does anyone have any experience using a product like this? Would it do the job?

Could you try spraying the bottle with a clear coat after you've drawn the ink? Something like this

Ive had success with this spray but it comes off fairly easily.

My next project is to install a servo to a switch on the bars that just flips the plates up when going through them.

I don't think you're incapable. <3

But seriously, it's all really great! As for how to waterproof those boots, I don't know if this will work?

I would spray the affected area with something like this. Lightly. Then wait many hours until it's absolutely dry. Then sand that with 3 or 400 grit sandpaper, not overly hard, wipe very clean with a dry cloth, then spray it again. And then perhaps again. Also comes in matte.

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457397610&sr=8-3&keywords=clear+coat+spray+paint+plastic

That's what I used, it seems to be holding up pretty well too.

You dont necessarily need to use Mr. Top Coat or Testors. I used a Rustoleum Matte clear and it came out just fine for me...my only gripe wasn't with the matte coat but me going to heavy with the Future clear and trying to correct it.

Krylon Fusion. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02321000-Plastic-Aerosol-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YUDJM

There is reflective spray paint available. I've been thinking about getting it for my foul weather commuter.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-214944-Reflective-10-Ounce-Spray/dp/B000LNVC1M

EDIT: another option is to use reflective glass beads. Process would be something like: paint, coat with beads while tacky, and maybe clear coat.

after removing the case I gave it about 8 light coats of this with about a half hour between coats, then after a few days I gave it a few coats of this. just make sure its clean before you do start and wait a couple days after you finish before you put it back on

I made mugs and coated them in 3 coats of bar top epoxy and they're sealed and food safe. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CEMU3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1449546482&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=bar+top+epoxy&dpPl=1&dpID=51ZB66yipUL&ref=plSrch

You could always try a UV spray maybe like this Krylon Preserve It! aerosol. I would make sure to try it on something that you don't mind damaging first to test how it takes, but it claims to have UV protection.

I keep my games in a set of shelves in our "office" space, along a wall. There's a window in the room, but since the office is hardly used, the blinds remain shut, so the light in there is very filtered. The only downside to this is that the games are upstairs, in a room where we don't play them. It's nice to have the games somewhere central.

Edited my previous comment with the link, but here's a picture of how my bike turned out

Picture

Link to the clear again just in case

KRYLON DIVERSIFIED BRANDS K01311007 Krylon 1311 Aerosol Matte Satin Finish Spray Enamel 11 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ENZ8CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VVsFAbK6AA0DK

I used this and it was real easy to use. Lol also cause other brands like mr hobby and other brands cant be obtained easily but this was.

looked into this and buying replacements is stupid expensive. if you want the OEM molding look, you have to remove it, paint it and put it back on with double sided tape. this is the trim paint to use, even has an XJ on the can.

Rust-Oleum Automotive 251574 11-Ounce Trim and Bumper Spray, Matte Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H5P5C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mhSPzb1NAMDJG

This is on my to-do list as well, I personally like the look of the 97+ molding when it's not faded grey. it's also saved my door panels from parking lot monsters who don't look before they open their door.

You can also purchase a spray can or window filmer, like this. It comes off with acetone, not water, so you should be able to wipe it down while adding privacy.

Otherwise velcro seems to meet your requirements; stick one side to the molding, the other to your plexiglass. probably add a handle or two to make removing it easier. Can also cut holes in the plexiglass for finger holes and/or ventilation.

Thanks, the paint I was referencing is RustOleum's here...seems ok for high heat, but perhaps you're right when it comes in contact with a flame.

Perhaps a shield of some kind is in order?

You'd be better off with this:
https://smile.amazon.com/KRYLON-DIVERSIFIED-BRANDS-K01311007-Aerosol/dp/B005ENZ8CS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1525390285&sr=1-1&keywords=matte+finish+spray+paint

Cheap and easy waterproofing.

Just something like this?

A paint conditioner will help with brush marks. That one is for latex. Also a lot of painters will use oil based on trim for less brush marks. Here is a conditioner for oil based paint. I have never used the oil based one. No idea how well it works.

It may come down to a difference in printers. Mine dries really quickly and isn't prone to smearing because I have a transparency print setting built in. Yours might use more ink or a different type of ink or something. If the ink continues to be annoying, I highly recommend spraying your sheets with something like this before you put them on the cards.

Perhaps a pattern in frosted glass? You can make a stick-on masking stencil (Modello will make you a custom one for the dimensions of your window) and then use a frosting spray to add the pattern. You can also use removable frosting-look decals. Use a pattern that you like or go crazy, frost the entire thing except "portholes" where you want to be able to look out.

If you are feeling architectural you can add window lattice. Painted garden trellises might even do the trick if you want to save money. How much space/land do you have outside the windows? You can mount the lattice immediately outside, or place them as a wall a few feet in front of the window if you have space. You should be able to see out, but it will be hard for others to see in.

This stuff is basically XTC 3D in a can:

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-I00500A00-12-Ounce-Triple-Aerosol/dp/B001144TJC

How about something like this?

You can buy a spray that will make the glass hazy (like a bathroom window). It's removable.

But yeah, your landlord sounds like a piece of work. Have you asked him directly how he expects you have privacy and avoid being a target for break-in?

Just use mailing label sheets, design your labels in your software of choice, and then spray the printed labels with something like this product

For building gunpla or models in general (including resin cast kits) people use stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Gloss-Spray/dp/B000W2YLGA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523076243&sr=8-4&keywords=mr+clear+spray

Look at Krylon's Fusion for Plastic. It is designed for stuff like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02321001-K02321000-Plastic-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YUDJM

Rustoleom has been making this stuff for like a decade. http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-214944-Reflective-10-Ounce-Spray/dp/B000LNVC1M

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009X8LZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works well on cardboard and plastic, in my experience!

Here's black.

Make sure you get the "flat" colors (see the bottom right of the picture on the label).

Here's Krylon, it works too if you can find it.

Thanks! The bases (Pic here: http://imgur.com/aFChvwH) are filled with Envirotex Lite, but any epoxy resin would have worked. The blue color came from a few added drops of acrylic paint.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249058-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWORRW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1462834803&sr=8-7&keywords=rustoleum+spray+primer

this seems really expensive though. You should be able to get this for $4-$6 at a big box store. Walmart might have it in their sotres as well.

I always use primer. It really helps in all the ways previously mentioned. After some experimenting, I really like the Krylon range https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-51315-All-Purpose-Interior-Decorator/dp/B001B73WCO

Just hold the models about 1.5 - 2 feet away, and go in short bursts. Never let the can stay still while spraying. All you need is a very thin, even coat all over the model. Don't worry if it doesn't look good, the worst thing you can do is go overboard and start filling in details. Shake the can often between sprays as well.

Actually, Frosting Spray works just fine. Making a paper mask and sandblasting is another option.

That's what I'm going for, but the rest of the wall was painted years ago, and I'm patching small holes. Not sure if it's worth it.

Does this stuff work on walls?

Krylon 1311 Matte Finish has been mentioned here before as being a good budget topcoat. I picked up a can at Wal-Mart for $4 but haven't tried it yet.

They also have the [1303 Gloss Finish] (http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1303-Acrylic-Crystal-11-Ounce/dp/B00023JE7K), I assume it's also as good, maybe? I haven't used either so I could be way wrong.

Actually, first scan it. Then I would suggest use an acid free spray on it. Notebook paper, newsprint, and other cheaply made paper we use and throw away contains acid which is what causes paper to yellow and become brittle. Acid free spray takes the acid out to make the document archival. Instead of laminating it I would suggest an acid free document bag. I don’t know if some laminations may yellow over time but I do know once it’s laminated it’s in there for good. You can find document bags at art supply and photography shops.

If you frame it, use UV glass. You can get it cut at the hardware store, and some readymade frames come with it. Light is the enemy of paper. Otherwise store it in a dark dry place. Only saying that because I’ve met people who’ve lost important art and keepsakes to wet basements and garages

Krylon 7027 Preserve It Aerosol Spray, Matte

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-7027-Preserve-Aerosol-11-Ounce/dp/B00AQ72JHE

countertop epoxy resin

e.g.

http://smile.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-16-Ounce-Pour-On-Finish/dp/B000LNS9CW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404959896&sr=8-1&keywords=countertop+epoxy+resin

Is this what you're referring to
https://smile.amazon.com/KRYLON-DIVERSIFIED-BRANDS-K01311007-Aerosol/dp/B005ENZ8CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522899001&sr=8-1&keywords=Krylon+Matte+Finisher

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-251574-11-Ounce-Bumper/dp/B005H5P5C6

So basically this:http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458077276&sr=8-1&keywords=gloss+spray+paint

And this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CSXMDZM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Reflective paint would be harder to prove if pulled over

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-214944-Reflective-10-Ounce-Spray/dp/B000LNVC1M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480431180&sr=8-1&keywords=reflective+clear+paint

Most likely high heat spray. Used it when I constructed a mini blacksmith forge. It Comes in a Rustoelum can.

here

Is this new?


SportBike riders have been putting this stuff on their license plates forever. It makes it look normal all day, but when a cop tails you to get your plate, the camera (and cop) get too much reflection to make it out.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNVC1M/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=48510694836&hvpos=1s1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5358276887281050394&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_4wgq8zht8d_b

I don't really know that stuff either. This is what I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009X8LZ4/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485391722&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001144TJC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502415650&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=krylon+crystal+clear&dpPl=1&dpID=41MGd%2BvBXVL&ref=plSrch

I use burned pieces of wood with all sorts of cracks and imperfections http://imgur.com/xkuVfVG and what I use and stand by is http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000LNS9CW that.
Get a few different sizes of brush and you'll be set.

I spray with Krylon clear, let set for 24 hours then finish with testors dull coat.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009X8LZ4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FF6DN4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not sure for athletic shoes what to paint with I'd say experiment and see what works, maybe leather paints would work because its good for flexing (I could be wrong I'm not the best) but for finishing use Krylon matte finisher that should do it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ENZ8CS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Reiterating what the other commenters have said, you'll want to stick the caps down somehow because when you pour the self leveling epoxy over them, they'll want to float and you'll end up with an uneven surface.

I used this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-16-Ounce-Pour-Finish/dp/B000LNS9CW

Source: Have made that mistake myself.

I'm desperately looking for affordable flat/gloss top coat alternatives to MrHobby.
Does anyone know what type of paint this is? I can never find out whether it is Acrylic, Lacquer or enamel.
KRYLON Diversified Brands K01311007 Matte Finish Aerosol Paint 11 oz, Satin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ENZ8CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z-V6CbWBGVFXH

Use spray paint that also advertises as a primer. It will make no observable difference if it blobs up or runs a bit.

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-51315-All-Purpose-Interior-Decorator/dp/B001B73WCO?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Don't get too hung up if it's flat white, gloss etc. That only has to do with the amount of diffused reflection versus spectacular reflection. It does not make that much of a difference if the light source is close to the plant. It will make a difference if the light source is further away from a plant where you would want a more specular reflection.

For very high reflectance use white paint with barium sulfate added. It will beat most all other white reflective sources.

http://www.triticeaecap.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Barium_Sulfate.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/Pyro-Chem-Source-Barium-Sulfate/dp/B00JGDLLR8

I did my research and found that someone suggested using this http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4?th=1&psc=1

But im still hesitant because I don't really wanna ruin the IDs. I'm only hesitant because it'll take me a while to earn up that much money for another.

I painted a similar bear and had trouble with glossy fur. To get around it, I sprayed a few coats of Krylon Matte Finish.