Reddit mentions: The best household painting supplies & tools
We found 988 Reddit comments discussing the best household painting supplies & tools. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 520 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Wagner Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max HVLP Paint or Stain Sprayer, Complete Adjustability for Decks, Cabinets, Furniture and Woodworking, Extra Container included
- HVLP PAINT SPRAYER: The Control Spray Max paint sprayer uses high volume, low pressure technology to atomize materials into fine particles and provide a smooth finish on door trim, decks, furniture, more
- USE WITH A WIDE VARIETY OF MATERIALS: Powerful two-stage turbine makes it easy to paint walls and surfaces with thinned latex paints and thinner materials like stains and poly
- ADJUSTABLE SETTINGS: Customize your paint flow by using the pressure control dial and material flow adjuster to receive the perfect finish every time. Turn the air cap to spray round, horizontal, or vertical
- GREAT DESIGN: The stationary base is connected to the spray gun with a 20 ft. hose to easily reach your painting project and reduce hand fatigue. Also includes a 1 ½ qt. cup and professional grade metal 1 qt. cup
Features:
Specs:
Color | Yellow/Black |
Height | 11.99999998776 Inches |
Length | 18.49999998113 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Control Spray Max |
Weight | 11.1994829096 Pounds |
Width | 11.99999998776 Inches |
2. ISC Racerstape Surface Protection Tape / Helicopter Tape 2 Inch x 12 Feet
- Core: 3 inch diameter
- Backing/carrier: polyurethane film
- Adhesive: acrylic
- Release liner: 92 lb. Polycoated white paper
- Thickness: 12.7 mils (carrier, adhesive, liner) 8 mils (carrier, adhesive) 4.7 mils (liner)
Features:
Specs:
Color | black |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 2 in. x 12 ft. retail package |
Weight | 0.25 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
3. Perfect Plastic Putty, 40ml
- Made by Delux Materials; Delux Materials is a United States based company; parts are sourced from Global producers
- Delux Materials part number DLMBD44
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Width | 2 Inches |
4. Crown 376 2-1/2 x 5 Cabinet Scraper (Gooseneck, Rectangular & Curved) - Set of 3
- Exceptional quality tools from Crown Hand Tools Ltd, Sheffield, England
- Tempered High Carbon Steel
- Includes 3 Shapes (Gooseneck, Rectangular & Curved)
- Used to remove paint, glue or stain from wood surfaces
- Ideal for creating shiny & level surface
Features:
Specs:
Color | Red |
Height | 1 inches |
Length | 1 inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Оne Расk |
Width | 1 inches |
5. Shur-Line 2006559 Edger Plus Premium Paint Edger Depth -1.875", Width - 5.75", Height-6.5" Red and Black 1 each
- Package of 1
- Paint Edger "Plus" model
- Handle Attaches To Threaded Extension Poles
- Pivots & Swivels for even control
- Features two guide wheels
- Woven pad assures straight and smooth lines
- Enables clean trimming around windows, doors, moldings, and cabinets
- Faster project times
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 8.44 Inches |
Length | 1.88 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Premium Paint Edger |
Weight | 0.3 Pounds |
Width | 5.75 Inches |
6. Can-Gun1 2012 Premium Can Tool Aerosol Spray
World's first full grip e-z pull trigger2X Leverage advantageArthritis-friendly designReusable and made in USA80-Percent recycled plastic
Specs:
Height | 1.4 Inches |
Length | 5.3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Single Gun |
Weight | 0.05 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
7. FOSHIO 2PCS Plastic Razor Scrapers Knife with Contoured Grip + 100 PCS 1.5 inch Refillable Double Edge Plastic Razor Blades Ideal for Auto Window Tint Vinyl Tool Application
- Plastic scraper set include 2pcs plastic scraper and 100pcs double edge plastic razor blades
- Plastic Material:It is Light weight and brings the rustproof performance.
- Double Edge Blades - economical and lasting using. You can change the blades quickly and easily with the Blades clip.
- Sharp yet flexible to conform to the surface and protect them from being scraped.
- Scraper heads are angled for better performance, greater control and strength, making scraping projects faster and easier.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
8. 3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black)
3M 5952 Heavy Duty Mounting VHB Tape is black, double-coated VHB adhesive tape with an acrylic foam core. A modified acrylic adhesive is on both sides of very conformable foam which provides adhesion to the broadest range of substrates/surfaces, including most powder coated paints. It comes on a red...
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 0.98425 Inches |
Length | 4.7244 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 in. x 5 yds. 5-yard roll |
Weight | 0.220462262 Pounds |
Width | 4.7244 Inches |
9. Dumond Chemicals, Inc. 3301 Smart Strip Advanced Paint Remover, 1 Gallon,White
- Removes 15+ Layers of Paint/Coatings - Works on Wood, Brick, Metal, Concrete, Stone, Plaster, Fiberglass, Masonry, Porcelain, Bathtubs, Moldings, Tile, Glass, Decking, and Cinder Blocks.
- Safe Water-Based Formula – 100% biodegradable. No Harmful Smells. Fume Free. No dangerous chemicals or caustics, such as Methylene Chloride or NMP. Trusted by Painting Professionals.
- Works Best on Post 1980 Paints – Professional Strength - Effective inside and out. Simply apply, let set, and rinse off. No neutralization required. No fuss, no muss. Leaves no mess.
- Made in the USA - Advanced non-toxic formula emulsifies paints and coatings. Used on landmarks, museums, historic buildings, opera houses, and homes worldwide.
- Satisfaction Guaranteed - Ideal for Painting Contractors and DYI Homeowners. Do it yourself, with Dumond.
- Does not contain methylene chloride, any caustics, or toxic chemicals. It is odor-free and safe for the environment
- This paint stripper is exceptional for the safe removal of lead-based paint and is excellent for intricate, carved, or molded surfaces
- It is also outstanding for removing marine paints without damaging the gel coat
- Because it is a paste, the Smart Strip Advanced Paint Remover paint stripper can easily be applied by brush, roller or conventional airless sprayer
- A revolutionary paint remover that is safe for the user, the substrate and the environment
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 7.5 Inches |
Length | 7.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Gallon |
Weight | 4 Pounds |
Width | 7.38 Inches |
10. HYDE Contour Scraper with 6 Changeable Blades , multicolor - 10450
The product is Contour Paint Scraper Kit With 6 Blades.Elegant and smooth finishThe product is manufactured in ChinaMaterial:High Carbon Stainless SteelRemoves paint, varnish, putty caulk or rust from virtually any surfaceSix specialized blades includedComfortable contoured handle keeps hand away fr...
Specs:
Height | 6 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.08125 Pounds |
Width | 6 Inches |
11. Savogran 10621 Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) 1LB (16oz)
- Use TSP to clean surfaces after using paint/varnish removers
- Preferred by painting and cleaning professionals
- Removes smoke and soot stains from walls
- Cleans chalked paint
- Effective deck and sideing cleaner
Features:
Specs:
Color | White Solid |
Height | 6.25 Inches |
Length | 1.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 lb |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 4.38 Inches |
12. Quakehold! 88111 Museum Putty Neutral
- Ideal for securing antiques, collectibles, and other breakable items from falling
- Works on almost any surface
- Easy to apply with its pliable texture
- Non-toxic and non-damaging to your walls, surfaces, or furniture
- Easy to remove and reuse without leaving behind unsightly residue
Features:
Specs:
Height | 6.75 Inches |
Length | 7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 2.64 Oz. |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 4.25 Inches |
13. Hopkins 2610XM SubZero 52" Super Extender Snowbroom with Integrated Squeegee and Ice Scraper (Colors may vary)
Heavy-duty broom for snow clearing powerDurable steel extender handleSoft cushion grip for comfortExtra wide blade with convenient squeegeeAssorted colors
Specs:
Color | One Color |
Height | 3.5 Inches |
Length | 35 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 1.073 Pounds |
Width | 7.75 Inches |
14. Rust-Oleum 274232 Repelling treatment base coat-9 oz and top-coat 9-oz , Frosted Clear
Technically advanced super hydrophobic formula creates a water-proof surface where moisture simply beads up and rolls awayCovers up to 10 sq ft, dries to the touch in 30 minutes; allow to fully cure for 12 hours before exposing to water for maximum benefitDurable formula is a treatment for interior/...
Specs:
Color | Frosted Clear |
Height | 7.88 Inches |
Length | 5.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 18 oz |
Weight | 1.125 Pounds |
Width | 5.25 Inches |
15. Vaper 19419 Red Spot Spray Non-Aerosol Sprayer (Red) - 32 oz.
Refillable, red 32 oz. non-aerosol sprayerEliminates dangerous, harmful propellantsNot for use with paint productsDo not use with flammable propellantsRebuildable with 19420 rebuild kit
Specs:
Color | Factory |
Height | 8.5 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | June 2012 |
Size | 1 Count (Pack of 1) |
Weight | 2.45 Pounds |
Width | 6.7 Inches |
16. ScotchBlue Original Painter's Tape 2090-18NC, 0.70 in x 60 yd (18mm x 54,8m), 1 Roll
Designed for use on multiple surfaces such as smooth or lightly textured walls, trim, baseboards, tile and glass14-day clean removal leaves behind no damage or sticky residueMedium adhesiveUV and sunlight resistantSize: 0.70 in. x 60 yd.CREATE SOCIAL DISTANCING MARKINGS: Create box or “X” queues...
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 4.69 Inches |
Length | 0.7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | August 2019 |
Size | .70 inches x 60 yards, 2090, 1 Roll |
Weight | 0.15 Pounds |
Width | 4.69 Inches |
17. RAM-PRO 36 Flexible Bristle Tin/Metal Tubular Ferrule Handle Acid/Flux Brushes for Home/School/Shop/Garage
- Ram-Pro Pack of 36 Disposable Brushes.
- Specs: 5-¼” Tubular Metal Handle - 7/8” long by 3/8” wide Horsehair Tight Bristles - with 3/8” Ferrule - Overall Brush Length 6”.
- 100% pure Black Horsehair Bristles and strong long lasting Tin Metal Fluted Ferrules Handles are Durable and comfortable to hold and Reduce Drips.
- Economical Handy Tool for applying a variety of materials Interior, Exterior, such as Glue, Acid, Flux, Oil, Paste, Pipe Dope, Soldering, greasing, Touch-up, applying Zinc primer, Spreading, Dusting, Cleaning, Cooking, Baking, Art, Woodworking, Workbooking, Arts & Crafts, or other general-purpose applications and more, hobbyists and professionals.
- Sturdy Durable Brushes whether you use each Brush ten times or only once.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Number of items | 36 |
Size | 36 PACK |
18. Dap 12372 CrackShot Spackling Paste 5.5-Ounce
Professional knife grade spackling paste for easy application and superior paintabilityCreamy texture applies smoothly, dries hard and sands effortlesslyQuality results every timeWill not shrink and will not flash paintFor interior and exterior use
Specs:
Height | 12 inches |
Length | 10 inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Width | 3 inches |
19. Preval Complete Spray Gun
This product cannot ship to a PO box. Delivery requires street address.Versatile spray applicator for all kinds of liquidsComes with a refillable container jarYou can change jars for different uses! - Economical and easy to use and always produces professional resultsWoodcraft is America’s leading...
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 10.4 Inches |
Length | 2.4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Weight | 0.1984160358 Pounds |
Width | 2.4 Inches |
20. Dumond Chemicals, Inc. 3332 Smart Strip Advanced Paint Remover, 1 Quart
Biodegradable formulaSafe for user, substrate and environmentRemoves multiple layersOdor free water based advanced paint removerFormulated without methylene chloride and is non-carcinogenicOdor free water based advanced paint removerFormulated without methylene chloride and is non-carcinogenicWater-...
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Quart |
Weight | 2 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on household painting supplies & tools
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where household painting supplies & tools are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
As an old house lover (and fellow old house owner), I'm begging you to please restore those windows! It can be done!
I'm making this response extra long and detailed since this question comes up from time to time. Hopefully it can be a resource for others.
But I say this as a guy who bought a real wreck of a house where the previous owner had let everything go. We needed to fix all 45 openings at once as part of a major rehab, and after 6 weeks of effort, about $3000 of experimentation (including taking a week off work and hiring two people to help me), I finally gave up and put in vinyl windows. It completely broke my heart, and my house is uglier because of it. But sometimes, an old window is just too far gone to save. But in that process I learned a lot and I'd like to share a few things.
OK, on to your questions.
General resources and tools I found useful:
A standard sized plaster wrap package will be about 10 dollars, but depending on how large your shell is going to be or how much armor you are going to make you will be needing much more than that. Standard size plaster wrap
This amount of wrap will do about 10 regular thickness masks (if that guesstimate helps?). I would buy the regular size plaster wrap and test it out, this will also help you determine how much more wrap you are going to need. If you need a lot buy in bulk, the price per amount of wrap goes down considerably the more you buy, rather than buying a bunch of the regular size.
Tutorials-
These two go over the basics of plaster wrap with the example being one of the most traditional uses of plaster wrap.
part one of traditional use of plaster wrap
part two of mask tutorial
Now I couldn't find a tutorial for the armor bit but I can explain as best I can. As the link below mentions to make armor bits you're going to need a frame or base shape for you to put the wrap on top of. Traditionally the base is someone's face or hand. The site below mentioned chicken wire being used as a base. For my base I used crumpled newspaper, masking tape (to hold it together) and plastic wrap(to keep the water out of the newspaper). I built up the shape (squirtle's shell) by adding more paper or punching down budges (haha, it was getting a little to close to the con for my comfort). Then I built a couple of layers of plaster wrap and let it dry. Be aware that that using a non-breathing base like this will take a day or more to dry fully.
this tutorial goes over surface finishing technique that i used
I used a spackle plaster for filling nail holes in a wall to cover the gauze texture and give me a surface to smooth (sand) and paint. (what was nice about the stuff I used was that it went on pink and dried white). I put the plaster on top of the wrap as smoothly as I could without fusing with it too much. I then waited for it to dry. Now I had to do a couple of layers. The first one is for filling all the divets and dips. Take a medium grit sand paper and smooth until you've got the right shape. The second, third (etc) layers are for finer and finer details. The more layer you do, the finer sand paper you'll want to use. Keep sanding until you are stratified with the smoothness. If you have OCD like me, then you can use a additional technique of primer-ing the piece then gently sanding to check for highs and lows. But this is not necessary.
I used a product like this
Aha! So I found it! By luck! I had seen this before a long time ago but didn't bookmark it.
Armor making tutorial There is a translation in the comments below. Though it's not a very good translation you'll get the gist of it.
Painting the piece.
Gently dust the surface. Primer all of the pieces in the most suitable color (black, gray, white). Then paint them. Then seal with a clear.
A can of spray paint costs about 5 bucks in my area.
A very very very rough estimate for everything would cost about 50 dollars. (£30 ).
Hope this help. Let me know if you need clarification.
At this point there's not that much I would do unless you feel like repainting it, and you already decaled it. Unless you have spares, it's not worthwhile. Just learn from it.
I might be wrong, but are you from the UK? A manufacturer in your country makes a nice putty, called Perfect Plastic Putty, by Deluxe Materials. I just recently bought some of theirs and it works quite nicely. While wet, it can be cleaned with water, and is a good filler.
PVA can be used as a filler in small quantities; it might work in this case.
In the future though, you should putty these things and test-fit before you paint, so you can solve the problems before it starts.
Other fillers that I have used include Squadron White Putty, which you can smooth out with nail polish remover (which must contain acetone), tamiya filler, which you have to sand, and Mr. Surfacer 500, which is more like thick primer. (It wouldn't work for what you're trying to do).
In this case, if you had to do something, I'd use white glue and slowly build up the seam. However, white glue doesn't sand well either, so you're unlikely to get it to blend without sanding it, destroying the finish, and removing the decals.
In the future, fill gaps prior to painting. It's easier and shows you what you need to work on.
And when i say "excess" plastic, that's not always flash or residue from the molding process, or the attachment points on the sprues. Sometimes, kit parts are too thick or something, and I shave the inside of the parts so that it will mate with the part on the model better.
The putty I mentioned is here:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Deluxe-Materials-Perfect-Plastic-Putty/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394322259&sr=8-1&keywords=perfect+plastic+putty
Also, with putties, you almost always have to either clean up the seam with some kind of solvent (e.g. nail polish remover for Squadron White, or alcohol for Mr. Surfacer), or sand it to fit, unless you are so good at applying putty that you get exactly what you need exactly where you need it. I usually have to sand my stuff. To do that, cheap wet and dry sandpaper from the hardware store will do. Get one lower grit one, and a medium grit sheet, and then the finest one you can get. (The grits I use respectively are 320, 600, and 1500; I would get higher but that's what the store sells, and it costs less than a dollar per sheet). So putty is not a magic solution, you need to wet sand it afterwards to remove the excess. On older model kits with raised lines, this will obliterate the detail; the only way around this (in my experience I'm sure others have something else to say) is to tape off the areas with raised detail, and then carefully sand in the area that you don't have masked.
Also, thick superglue is also used for filling gaps, but it will craze clear parts, so don't use that here. (Recall episodes of CSI where they get the fingerprints from the drinking glass or clear object with some superglue in gaseous form? That's the same process that clouds the clear styrene if you just superglue on it.
I went into my project with no experience but I read a bunch of info online and watched some videos. I’ve found I’m better at the paint stripping and my husband is better at the actual glazing.
I use a heat gun as well and usually put a large putty knife over the glass in the area I’m working then let it cool periodically. I try to be really careful so I can preserve the original glass.
Once I get the paint stripped I sand it down to bare wood then stain. I paint the exterior facing part of sash but use a water based finish on the inside. I also strip, stain and finish the interior trim. I’ve been pulling out the sash weights, adding new rope and putting them back together as well. To help with energy efficiency I’ve added bronze spring stripping to seal up some cracks. https://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-install-spring-bronze-weatherstripping/
The craftsman blog has a ton of awesome information all in one place but there is other info out there as well.
I’ve found the Hyde Contour tool to be incredibly helpful with the fine areas/detail work. You just lately scrape the paint off then use sand paper to gently smooth out the wood. It’s the best way I’ve found to get rid of the paint without losing the detail work. I believe that was also a recommendation from the craftsman blog.
Hyde Tools 10450 Contour Scraper with 6 Changeable Blades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W65L7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fBfcBbANDB3D3
It’s a tedious project and I didn’t mean for it to escalate to this level. I’m now obsessed with my heat gun and have been removing paint from doors, trim, etc. Just slowly making my way through the house!
Its an endearing model because every modeler has one like it. Pretty good job for being a first kit!
As for airbrushes... I started with the super cheap Master brand airbrush. Later on I got a Japanese made Iwata. I can say that buying the Master airbrush + compressor is the perfect starter. This is a good example: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Performance-Airbrushing-Dual-Action-Airbrush/dp/B0017640RK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1482902837&sr=8-7&keywords=airbrush+compressor+tank
You get an airbrush that will be a perfect starter and a good compressor that will last you into your next step up airbrush.
I recommend staying with acrylic paints-- just easier to work with.
For putty, to fill seams with, I also recommend Perfect Putty. It's water based so it's easy to clean up and work with. You put some on a tray and use a toothpick to apply to a gap or seam, then wipe excess off with brush or finger. After it dries you can use sandpaper or a wet cottonswab to remove excess.
https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482902965&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+putty
What is your next kit?
As a someone who detail cars.. This WILL scratch the shit out of your clear coat, especially if there is a lot of snow on the tarp as you drag it off. I wouldn't suggest this to anyone who cares about their cars appearance, if you drive a beater tho.. Have at it.
Edit: A lot of people are making suggestions about if they can use this or that instead to avoid scratches, so I'll just give my best advice. Winter is tough on cars in many regards, so your car and it's paint is going to take a bit of a beating no matter what. The most important thing you can do to care for your car in snowy climates (besides regular maintenance) is to wash it frequently, and when you go through a car wash pay the extra buck or two to get the under carriage. Salt and rust is far more damaging to a car then some scratches so that's first (Note: Go to reputable car wash to minimize scratches) . Honestly you're going to get scratches no matter what you do, so all you can do is try your best to minimize them. Using a tarp is a bad idea because as you remove it will drag the dirt and grim that's on your car along the paint. If there is snow on the tarp it will add weight digging into the paint even further. General purpose tarps are also harder then your paint and by itself could causing nasty swirls and scratches. If you'd like to use a cover use one that is designed for cars, they're typically made of a softer materiel that causes less scratches, but still remove the snow prior to trying to pull it off.. this defeats the purpose of this LPT tho. The fastest way to remove snow from your car with doing the least damage is to use regular snow brush or brum. They will cause some light scratching as anything would, but it will be significantly less then a tarp and you might not even notice them. If you want you can even put your wipers up if you can to make clearing your window easier. Best scenario is to garage the car when you can or use something like a leaf blower to blow the snow off, but that's not always possible/practical..and in all honesty a bit overboard for most cars. Also if you own a black car..your're screwed swirls and scratches are the bane of glossy black paint.
Third edit: Get your car waxed, if your cars paint is properly maintained (i.e wash polish & Wax etc) the snow/water will bead up and slide of easier reducing the amount of scratches.
Second edit: Buy a shitty winter beater(that runs decent) slap some winter tires on there and not give 2 fucks about it.
Gold for me!? Haha, why thank you generous person.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXNQW9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Vs4cBbM6VD41X
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SPJP5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iv4cBbW5YZ208
I like those brushes because they’re cheap. You can trim them to whatever shape you need and toss them when you’re done. The cleaner is just IPA I think, but it will evaporate out and draw out a lot of moisture in he process. The spray bottle is nice, you can blast out a lot of FOD like that corrosion (before and after brushing) in the process.
Obvious safety would be a very well vented room away from flames, you’ll be spraying a flammable liquid. Be smart about it, read labels on whatever you buy.
Don’t get rough on anything, those pins WILL break if you do. Brush it like you would your kindergartener’s teeth: to clean not scrub with some knuckle.
Depending on your climate, you could do any number of things to make an oven, it just needs to be “warm” by oven standards. I went to YouTube and found more crap than good material... not much help on there. It’s made to go in a car, so keep that in mind.
In Texas it gets plenty warm enough, just keep it out of direct sunlight and park in the sun all day with the sunroof cracked.
Thanks. I used the sander just on the rails and stiles. Because the sidelights were originally painted after they were installed there was no paint on the edges and a few coats everywhere else. This would have left a very visible paint line all the way around if I had just painted without sanding first. So I just sanded to blend in where there was paint and where there was none, as well as the loose paint that came up easily. I didn't need to use a heat gun because I was just going to repaint them, not take them all the way to bare wood.
Around the glass I hand-sanded any loose paint and heavy paint bumps. Since the closet is upstairs I didn't have to make it show quality because very few guests will see it.
The sander is a 5" random orbit Bosch ROS20VS. It's several years old, but works great. Never leaves swirl marks.
I've refinished several 100+ year old doors (with a century of paint on them) to bare wood for staining. It's a very tedious job and I hated using heavy solvents, like you. I did find some success using non-fume products like Peel Away. You brush it on and let it sit and it makes scraping off old paint a lot easier. You just have to follow the directions closely and make sure you get it all off (it's water soluble). However, it may still leave very old oil based layers. You may have to just sand, or scrape, those off.
But, the next product I will try for those projects is Smart Strip (https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-Peel-Away-Remover/dp/B001F0KO2S). It's expensive, but seems to get good reviews.
I'm considering plasti dipping my entire car as well. Me and a buddy ran the numbers the other night and I can't remember it all, but it seemed really reasonable. I think buying the spray gun will be one of the more expensive parts, but once I have it, I have it. And then if someone else decides they want theirs done, I can do it for them for a slight cost ;)
It does look the same as far as I can tell. From what I read, plasti dip has a little rougher of a finish, where this doesn't. But I can't say for sure because I've never used the plasti dip.
Yes, I just used a spray can for the rims, I suggest buying one of the contraptions that you put on the can that makes spraying easier though. My fingers went numb 20 minutes into doing it. It's been over 48 hours now and I still have no feeling in either of my index fingers. I'm not exaggerating in the least. http://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82 Something like that is what I mean.
I'm thinking it will hold up very well, there's one spot I need to redo. It's where they put the wheel weights on the outside of the rim. One of the wheels didn't take to it well so it peeled a tiny bit. Just going to cut the section out and spray it again, it's only about an inch long.
A friend plasti dipped his motocross rims, apparently sprayed it right over dirt and everything, his has been on there for 3-4 years now and he says it still looks great. So take from that what you will, but it should last a long time if you do it well. Even if you have to touch a few things up after a year, it's cheap and easy to do!
If you have any questions about getting the Photon going, give me a holler. I made all of the regular mistakes, so can probably help.
I will say the following:
Leveling the plate is the most important thing you can do. My process is a lot like the generic instructions, but I take it a step farther: When I level the very first time, I loosen the top screw, and the four build plate screws as well. I then use the paper method (Get a regular piece of printer paper under the plate and gently .01mm lower the plate from 0 until the paper can be pulled out, but not pushed back in. I then hold the plate in my hand and don't let it move as I tighten down the 4 plate screws in an X formation. I then check the paper, and usually have to lower it a few .01 mm at a time until it's back to being tight. Then I hold the plate again by hand and tighten the center screw. Finally, I hold the square head and tighten down a quarter turn or so more to really lock it in place. At that point, I try to leave it alone until it gets moved, or prints get weird. I haven't had to re-level this since then.
For the Thumb Drive: Seriously, replace the one it comes with. I fixed a lot of problems by spending $10 at Frys. Resist temptation to get a large drive. You don't need it, and it can mess up on the Photon. I got a 16GB Sony, and it works really well. I still have occasional issues where I've ejected the drive, and will have to put it back in the computer, and re-eject. This happens about 1/6 or so times. A little irritating, but not a huge issue.
Download Chitubox. Use it. Forget the included Photon Slicer, which is simply an older version of Chitubox, and is inferior in every way.
Don't be afraid to use 3rd party resin. Like I said, I use Elegoo grey. It's a little thinner, but that doesn't seem to give me any less in the way of prints, but it does make it a little easier to get off of the build plate.
Invest in some plastic putty knives. By some, I mean a lot. They're about $1 each at Home Depot, or you can buy in bulk from Amaozn. I also sometimes use a [plastic razor scraper ] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076BBW1WM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), but honestly, the plastic putty knives work great. I never use metal on the build plate.
Stir your resin between prints.
Don't overfill resin.
Inspect your print basin every few days for leaks. A leak onto your LED screen is a bear to get off.
Buy a big pack of nitrile gloves, a bunch of 99% IPA, and some jars or bins where you can rinse off resin.
You can buy a $11 UV nail curing station from Amazon that'll work beautifully to cure your prints. It actually works great, and there's no real reason to buy something more expensive, except for convenience.
Anyway, I could go on, but this is a basic overview based on all of the mistakes I've made, and hopefully learned from!
Edit : thanks for the gold!
I would consider using a cabinet scraper (just sand a little after you remove the bulk of the finish) and a scratch stock. This will be AGES faster than sanding or stripping and a lot easier to clean up. It may take a while to get the profile perfect on the scratch stock, but it will save you hours of nasty chemicals or lots of dust and gummed-up sandpaper. Chances are, even if you do end up changing the profile of the handrail slightly in your efforts to remove the finish with a scraper, no one will know or care.
If you do decide to sand, a toothpick or sharpened dowel with sandpaper wrapped around it tightly might help you get into the grooves.
As for the gaps...You can do a total repair by cutting the sides clean with a dovetail saw and then gluing in a shim, which you would then sand to match the profile. Or you could go the lazy route and fix it with a filler paste; I would recommend mixing up some sawdust and glue, rather than using a store-bought product (they tend to be chalky and don"t last long).
Good luck and let us know how it turns out!
Hey! I actually just did this exact job in my house on the fireplace. Probably about 6-7 layers of paint for me. I did a ton of research and settled on smart strip (amazon link below) - there is also a pretty good YouTube video of someone doing outside brick. I put the paste on very thick and used the waxy paper to cover for 2 full days. When I came back to it with a heavy duty razor scraper, it came off pretty easily. I’d say I still spent 5min per brick on the later part of the process but absolutely love how the project came out.
album of pictures
Smart Strip by Peel Away - 1 Gallon Paint Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0KO2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5uC-Bb522HRW2
I got one similar but from Lowe’s so I could make sure was heavy duty. ORIENTOOLS Heavy Duty 4-inch Razor Blade Scraper with Long-Handle, Cleaning Glass Wall Scraper, Painting Stripping Tools,Tile Adhesive Removal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075Z4B54H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3BC-Bb10Q4KND
Meta-hobby! I've only been back into collecting for about 3 months. I have about 60 at the moment.
My washing method (3rd time I posted this today...I should probably just make it a post :) is as follows:
The technique:
Pan 1 has the water, tergikleen (just a few drops) and rubber washers. Pan 2 has clean water for rinsing
I fill pan 1 just deep enough to cover the rubber pads and the top of a record when placed in.
I then place in a record, submerge it, then take the paint pad and do a few laps in one direction, then a few in the other. The rubber pads allow you to wash the record right in the pan without hurting the underside of the record. It also prevents the LP from 'sticking' to the pan due to suction.
Flip the record over, repeat.
Give it a bath in the rinse water.
Dry with the towels.
Prop up on a shelf to finish air drying.
Works great.
Yeah nothing out there on that...thought about doing a video but too lazy X).....I used painters tape on bottom of the headlights and over the blinkers. and just sprayed the whole front fascia(using a large piece of cardboard to protect any stray spray from getting on the rest of the car)....it does kinda puddle up and drip if you put too much in any one area. Worked perfectly everywhere so i'd say you just need a nice thin coat...again not sure how long it'll last, it does seem to wipe off fairly easily as it's not permanent. Also due to all the snow on the road I couldn't use auto drive much so not a big deal...I bought this, and just used the top coat per recommendations: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-274232-Repelling-treatment-top-coat/dp/B00DNQBFAW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=neverwet&qid=1574971342&sr=8-4.....did a section of concrete stairs with the base and top coat that worked really well to prevent icing so i'll probably buy some more for that.
depends. You have two main routes.
A) fast and dirty. Buy http://www.amazon.com/12372-CrackShot-Spackling-Paste-5-5-Ounce/dp/B000HSENKS
and http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-125PC-4-Inch-Flexible/dp/B000OC4YUG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y
Put paste into holes. smooth and make flush with wall with the knife. sand and paint.
or
B) the more labor intensive but correct way.
Get a ready-made drywall patch. These are available at big-box home centers and hardware stores. They use a peel-and-stick, metal-backed patch for added strength.
Clean up the edges of the hole. Trim away frayed edges with a utility knife and press back into place any small chunks still hanging by a flap.
Cut or shape the patch carefully to fit the hole. Make sure to leave extra backing all around the patch to attach to the drywall surrounding the hole.
Clean and dry the repair area to allow maximum adhesion. To clean greasy areas (as in a kitchen), use trisodium phosphate ("TSP"), which can be found at most paint centers. Warm, soapy water can do the job, too, but don't let the drywall get too wet.
Apply the patch to the wall and smooth the taped edges with your putty knife. This will remove air bubbles.
Use a wide-blade putty knife to spread a thin topcoat of joint compound (sometimes called "mud") over the area surrounding the repair. The aim is to create a smooth transition between the patch backing and the surrounding wall. Because the patch backing lies on top of the existing drywall, there can be an unattractive layered look to your work if you don't do something to disguise it. Therefore you must learn to apply compound around the patch in such a way that the patch backing is "feathered" gradually into the rest of the wall. With practice, you'll learn the technique of making this transition smoothly. It will often require more than one coat of mud.
Example: If repairing a 2- to 3-inch (5- to 7.5-cm) hole, you will want to use a 10-inch (24 cm) putty knife to apply a skim coat of joint compound as a final topcoat. Remember to "screed" (gently scrape) the mud in one smooth, final stroke.
Apply a liberal amount of non-shrink joint compound with a putty knife. Wider putty knives will produce smoother results.
Smooth the compound with the putty knife. Pull the blade toward you in one steady, smooth motion, letting the knife make a 30-degree angle with the wall. If your finish doesn't look smooth, simply wipe off the blade, wet it and scrape the wall again. Make the mud as smooth as you can, but don't worry if it's not perfect. You will be able to sand the compound later when it's dry (although this can create a bit of a mess, so it's best to leave it as smooth as possible before it dries).
Let the patched area dry thoroughly before applying additional coats or sanding.
Once the compound is dry, lightly sand the area smooth using drywall sandpaper attached to a drywall sander. (Regular sandpaper will work, just not as well.) If there are large blobs or strips, shave these off with the putty knife first. You want to create as little dust as possible.
Hide minor imperfections with an ultra-thin topcoat of joint compound. Apply this topcoat over pin holes or hairline cracks as if you were trying to scrape it all off with your knife without leaving any behind. With experience, this step can often be accomplished without additional sanding.
Awesome.. thanks for that info, much appreciated. I may try the grille swap myself using this guide.. I have done stuff like this on my old accord and altima but heard its trickier on these cars.
But thanks for the guide, I am going to look it over when I get out of work.
They sell these handles you can put over the plastidip can to give it a more even coating and helps the back and forth motion as well as your finger from pressing on the spray tip.
https://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466530359&sr=8-6&keywords=plastidip
Works really well and can use it for other spray bottles too.
Def keep me updated with pics and thanks again!
http://imgur.com/a/EMEaU
This is a christmas light I printed as a gift for my Grandma on a Rostock V2 Max.
I used cheap white PLA from bgastore on ebay (link later).
I designed the file in Autodesk Inventor 2017 Student Version and in Meshmixer. I also used Meshmixer to create the custom supports for the model. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1914863
The model was printed on Blue Tape with no glue or bed heat.
Support removal took around 3 hours, I started with the middle, then went around the text and then finished up at the top of the model. I used needle nose pliers and wire cutters I would not recommend printing this unless you have both.
Afterwards I used acrylic paint to paint over the text. The surface was rough if you’re planning on painting this model I would recommend sanding it first.
The print can be kept as a christmas tree ornament or as a light. It’s possible cut a hole in it to fit a large lightbulb in or order a small one off of amazon. Make sure the bulb doesn’t touch the sides of the print as it can melt the plastic.
Cura Settings:
Layer Height: .3mm
Line Width: .5mm
Wall Line Width: 1mm
Top/Bottom Thickness: 2mm
Infil: solid
Print temp : 205
Build Plate: 0
Retraction speed: 50mm/s
Extra Prime amount: .1mm
Minimum Extrusion Distance Window: 6.5mm
Speed: 30mm/s
Wall Speed: 15mm/s
Initial Layer Speed: 8mm/s
Combing mode: all
Z hop when travelling: 2mm
Cooling: fan 100%
No support, the meshmixer supports are enough
Brim: 1mm
Link to plastic:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/391087201228?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D145795696709_324272%2526itemid%253D391087201228%2526targetid%253D265536273303%2526rpc%253D0.08%2526rpc_upld_id%253D91336%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F391087201228%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9005779%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D672333784%2526adgroupid%253D29658622530%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-265536273303%2526gclid%253DCj0KEQiA08rBBRDUn4qproqwzYMBEiQAqpzns6jXyE4PiaoJpcMmUbU6nRO9XAd2FxXUSDttHbQfGFAaAjGt8P8HAQ%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1127005495389&ul_noapp=true
Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-70-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B00004Z4BB
This was recommended to me a little while ago, Perfect Plastic putty.
Best filler I've ever used, it goes on, however you want it, then you just let it dry for a few minutes to an hour or so, then you can use a damp cloth or a damp cotton swab and wipe down the excess since it cleans up with water. It's very similar to milliput, but it seems finer to be and its easier to use since it's just a paste, not two solids you have to mix.
I find this type of putty is the absolute best kind, because it requires no sanding at all to clean up, meaning you won't destroy panel lines or any raised details.
I'd skip all the brushes and rollers and get a simple HVLP sprayer. I used the Wagner HVLP MAX with excellent results. Used it for both primer and finish coats. I highly recommend a Waterbourne Alkyd paint, such as BM Advanced.
A cheap solution to the paint pyramids are some 2x4s with a few finish nails sticking out.. you prob already have this stuff laying around.
I see you already ordered new hinges, but pending what year your cabinets are, going to a Euro hinges, really helps modernize the look.. tho it can be a matter of opinion. Good luck!
I have a Wagner that’s very similar to the one you’re looking at and actually really like it a lot. I’m just a weekend warrior, so it works very well for me. If you plan on using this thing daily, then you can’t go cheap. Get a better sprayer. But for quick, smooth, and easy painting at a good price, you can’t beat these sprayers.
As far as clean up, I use hot water immediately after I’m done and have never had issues. You’ll need to take it apart and use a toothbrush too. You may need to clean it with diluted paint thinner every now and then, so keep some handy. And learn how to thin paints. It makes a world of a difference once you start using the correct viscosity for the paint/stain/finish you’re using.
Here is a list of things that people will always need, I understand you can't stock everything as overhead is an issue with retail, and storage as well, but most of these are small enough that they can occupy the shelf space you currently have. As for the larger things, like the 2020 extrusions, you could sell them in common lengths of 500mm and 1000mm and let the customer cut them down to the size they need, or just don't carry these at all. It's not a niche item, but for a retail store like you it would be hard to store and maintain, but man, would it be nice to be able to get those locally if i needed a piece for a project instead of having to wait on mail order.
this is just a basic list, others have listed other things as well, Steppers, Belts, Pulleys, Bearings etc. If you want 3d printing as a reason for other people to go to your store, these items will satisfy the need. Just keep prices fair, I have no issue paying a bit more compared to amazon to get it today.
> FWIW, I was born and raised in Rochester, learned to drive literally in the snow, and have never had snows, always all seasons. The most important things are knowing the limits of your car and yourself, keeping an appropriate speed, and being able to correct if things start to go south.
Don't listen to this poster. You can know the limits of your car and yourself, trundle along at 5 MPH, and generally do everything perfectly, but none of this will help when some other idiot careens into you going 30 MPH in foot-deep snow on all-seasons because "they literally learned how to drive in the snow!"
GET THE SNOW TIRES
My snow-driving anxiety levels went down by orders of magnitude when I bought my Jeep Patriot (with 4x4, naturally) and Blizzak snow tires to put on them. I literally went from being a nervous wreck whenever a snowflake appeared in the sky to "Meh, better text my boss and tell him I'll be a little late to work because it's snowing again. Hm, do I want to play it safe and take the thruway or have some fun on the back roads..."
GET THE SNOW TIRES
edit: And if you've got a truck or SUV, for the love of FSM, invest in a telescoping rotating snow brush (example) to clear the snow off the top of the vehicle (as required by law, but also because you don't want to cause an accident for the people behind you who suddenly get whiteout'd from the snow billowing off the top of your car).
I think you can still order the paint from Porsche, they still carry Guards red, but it's expensive. $23 for a paint marker the size of my finger... I can't imagine the cost worth a whole car.
With paint that old the new paint may stand out too much and you'll be unhappy with it even if you did a perfect job.
There are some plastic razor blades you can buy off amazon and use to scrape the paint can splatter- I'd try that before a thinner. For cost effective (and time) I would use a paint marker from porsche for the scratches if it doesnt bother you to do it that way. If you want to fill every scratch, nick and ding with bondo then you may as well repaint the whole girl when you're putting in that much effort
​
Amazon razor blade example:
https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Scrapers-Contoured-Refillable-Application/dp/B076BBW1WM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2JQ4C968XSF5X&keywords=plastic+razor+blade&qid=1571288437&sprefix=plastic+razo%2Caps%2C320&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFCSDRPS1pQMTBSOUEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwNzUzMjIyM1NQWVoxNVEwUTJIJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MzYzNjAzTEtESzRPTkhWOElQJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
All prints are straight off the print bed. I hate sanding so I've worked really hard to get the printer dialed in. And when the printer isn't as dialed in as I'd like, I have found a wonderful putty that will fill gaps, holes and even join two parts of a print together ... it's Perfect Plastic Putty ( https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-BD44-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1DRCN7LC5IRMS&keywords=perfect+putty&qid=1573437609&sprefix=perfect+putty%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-2 ). It's great stuff! Unfortunately I don't get a share of the profits but I'm impressed with it enough to recommend it anyway!
Yup, totally agree. They seem like a good idea, until that bitch is frozen to the car and you have to chip it out with the ice scraper anyway. More often than not if you have to use the cover the rest of the car will be covered and you're back to using the scraper/brush again. The best thing you can get for you car in the winter is a solid scraper with a nice extender like this guy.
You can still buy TSP and add it yourself if you hate the environment but love clean dishes: https://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10621-Trisodium-Phosphate-16oz/dp/B0001GOGQW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
You can find it at home improvement stores as well, but make sure you don't buy the useless TSP-PF (phosphate free) in the green box. I bought mine for homebrew cleaning but I don't remember why, maybe for disgusting bottles.
Supposedly phosphates may not be responsible for the algae bloom issue.
3M VHB tape is the best
VHB stands for Very High Bond, it sticks amazingly well to smooth surfaces like a kwad frame but when you want to remove it you can peel it off pretty easily. It isnt going anywhere when you fly. It is also a little foamy so it provides a little cushion bten the carbon fiber and electronics.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_hQ4jDbV2SB64H
I'm not an expert, but if it were me, the first thing I would try is using a card scraper.
They are cheap no matter what (whether you make one or buy one), you can buy them in all kinds of different shapes from places like woodcraft or online.
I've also used putty knives (like the kind you use for dry wall) to make card scrapers. I can't personally tell a difference in the effectiveness doing it this way vs buying them (and at this point I've done it both ways).
here is an example of a set you can buy on amazon... https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE
the curvy one would probably make the most sense for the fine work here.
basically you sharpen them with a file and a screw driver (make sure it's hard metal going all the way up the shaft like an old craftsman screwdriver or the like, also it should be round and not some weird hexagonal shape.
there are lots of videos on how to sharpen a card scraper, so you should watch them, but basically you file the edge flat across, then use the screwdriver (which should be made of harder steel than the scraper which is why this works), to turn a hook onto the edge of the steel.
I've done a ton of sanding, but get a nice quality flat file. They will save you a ton of time. More than a dremel.
And get this to fill in gaps:
https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK
I like that one more than Bondo because you don't need a mask.
You need a specialized paint remover like Citristrip or Smart Strip. I used Smart Strip on painted wood in my garage and it worked great. Apply thickly with a paintbrush and scrape off with a metal scraper. You may have to refinish or repoly the floor.
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-Away-Sample-Remover/dp/B001PCVKLK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492362164&sr=8-1&keywords=smart+strip+paint+remover
I painted 4 dozen mason jars. I used chalk board spray paint it worked great. 2 coats was best. Also one of these things helps a lot.
I've always had good luck with [Earthquake Putty] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Quakehold-Earthquake-Preferred-product-stabilizing/dp/B0002VA9NA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467150201&sr=8-1&keywords=earthquake+putty) It seems to hold a bit better than the blue stuff. Maybe you can pair it with something like [this] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Newest-Colorful-Multipurpose-Organizer-Smartphone/dp/B016KF3M44/ref=sr_1_7?s=shoes&ie=UTF8&qid=1467150308&sr=8-7&keywords=cable+tidy) for the actual cables to run through.
50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF beats damn near anything. If it's really stuck, hit it with a torch first and let it sit for about 15 mins.
ATF is filled with all kinds of detergents and dispersants. The Acetone thins it down to let it flow better and help it wick into the threads. I keep it in a spray can like this and use it all the time. It's cheap as all get out too.
After that there are a lot of things to try, In no particular order.
6 point wrench and a sharp strike, like with a hammer.
6 point wrench and strong constant force.
try tightening it first, sometimes you can break the bond that way
heat the nut with a torch, and cool the bolt rapidly. I've used a can of dust off turned upside down to cool.
strike the head with a hammer.
Breaker bar with a length of pipe slid over the handle. anyway to increase your leverage.
So just in case you are looking to try this I actually bought this at my local Sherwin-Williams thinking it would be a great alternative to spraying and it's just OK. Like others have said it had the same limitations as most spray paint with the advantage of being able to use custom colors. If you have any specific questions let me know
I just got a new bike and felt the same way for a while. After some research I found this: ISC Racers Tape/Helicopter Tape. A number of people online seem to like it.
After getting used to the fact that I will probably bang up my bike a good bit more and I might as well get over it, I decided to buy a little anyway. I'm going to put it on a few spots I worry about i.e. to prevent chainslap and where the bike touches my bike rack. Might as well make a small effort to help the resale value if I ever want to sell it.
latex paint works best with an airless sprayer, but those will run you $300+.
I picked up a wagner https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518080-Control-Spray-Sprayer/dp/B003PGQI48/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469559938&sr=8-3&keywords=paint+sprayer
works ok for such things. it cant quite vaporize the paint, even after thinning with some floetrol and water. But it works better than a brush.
Its certainly faster, but it does waste a fair amount of paint.
Still, I hate painting, Ive gotten my money's worth IMO. Though with the amount Ive used it, I wish i had gotten an airless sprayer.
It's just usually called "green putty". There are several different brands. GW carries a two part putty, but it's the same as other brands, but way more expensive.
This is a two part that's really good. You can also use it to mold and sculpt parts, like purity seals and the like.
This plastic putty has a nozzle so you can control the bead.
Tamiya and Squadron both make white/green putty that's good for filling small gaps and cracks.
It's actually this stuff called "Quake Hold", which is reusable/stickable putty to hold stuff down during earthquakes and such. It's easy to ball up and manipulate to any size and it wont leave residue on the caps. Does a great job holding knick-knacks on shelves too =)
FYI helicopter tape is pretty useful for covering up areas where paint can chip from rocks, debris, and chain-slap. It’s the same stuff used to protect phone screens from wear and tear, and apparently helicopter blades. This roll is way cheaper than the made-for stuff.
seems to me one of these would make life easier as well. not sure if this specific model will fit on the can you choose but it looks like you'd make nicer passes with this than the can by itself.
https://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82
good video. you should check out plastic razor blades. super helpful in peeling acrylic!
https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Scrapers-Contoured-Refillable-Application/dp/B076BBW1WM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=plastic+razor+blades&qid=1574494005&sr=8-4
Hello!!! [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-500-Premium-Paint-Edger/dp/B0001MQI9E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369052429&sr=8-1&keywords=paint+corner) is the BEST thing I bought when I was painting. If you're going to do a lot of painting... I highly recommend!
Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:
If links weren't provided then I already had the item.
Fun fact: An ingredient in Lucky Charms is trisodium phosphate, which is also used as a heavy duty cleaner.
This would be a handy add-on!
I loved this article. It was definitely bizarre and the picture is adorable. Somehow a baby anteater was born even though there was no male in the enclosure.
How bizarre
Have a great day!
absolutely, it is impressive..i use this putty, i find it very good.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0076LAVFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
glad you took my comment the right way :O)
I'd go with this remover, not sure about refinishing or repainting, never done metal before.. Good luck!
Dumond Chemicals, Inc. 3301 Smart Strip Advanced Paint Remover, 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0KO2S
I LOVE mine (imposter model apparently). a fabricator buddy turned me onto them. We both keep acetone in them for cleaning. So nice, so, so nice. And a decent price for them too, not out of reach for an amateur
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035FH906/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
YES. I know that I'm going to get downvoted to hell because everyone on here says not to do it. And I don't have any experience using a professional sprayer.
BUT, I do have this Wagner sprayer with it's own mini-compressor (not attached to the gun, this is important) and it's awesome! I've used it to paint my whole house (interior). I've had very minimal (if any) overspray. I just tape off the molding and lay some paper down where the wall meets the floor and go to town. I actually bought one of those trim tools someone else suggested and add some Floetrol or water to make it easier to spray.
For 100 bucks, it's been a worthwhile investment. Taping off takes the most time...I find that I can paint a room in about 30min. It really makes up time in the cutting in, rolling, rolling, rolling, dipping the roller back in the pan, rolling some more. You just move your arm and spray until the container is empty.
Edit: All of you guys are pussies. There are a bunch of stay at home mommy bloggers who use paint sprayers and do just fine.
Guitar manufacturers typically use full-on professional spray equipment (such as HVLP) to do bursts, not airbrushes. For the home builder, an airbrush (like a Badger, Paasche or something) will work fine though. You can do hand-wiped bursts with dyes and stains, but not opaque paints; those must be done by spraying.
Which one is "better" just depends on what you want to do. Any method can be used by home builders and modders, but if you've never done it before it would be wise to practice on scrap wood first. Note that if you don't have a professional spray booth or even an airbrush and compressor, you can use PreVal sprayers, which are basically spray cans that you screw a jar onto the bottom of; the jar contains your paint of choice. PreVals can get kind of expensive (about $9 each, and you'll need a few for one guitar), so they're better for one-off projects; if you plan on doing a lot of painting, you'd be much better off investing in an air compressor and sprayer of some sort.
Really, you get what you pay for, but in the end I'd still recommend doing it yourself. I feel that in this day and age we rely so heavily on others to do things for us (paid or unpaid) that we end up losing basic knowledge of simple things. I do home remodeling and handyman work for a living and though I'm getting paid to do the work, sometimes it just amazes me to get paid for doing some of the most simple of tasks. And when it come to painting, cutting lines, double (or more) coats and making sure you don't get paint on the floors is really the only issues. That can be solved by patience and careful planning. And personally, I use the edger plus to cut the lines. Follow the instructions and maybe do two coats, you'll be fine.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PGQI48/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
here is my HLVP...the reviews are probably better than I can do. I like it.
whether or not its worth it???? YES.....spraying the corners and fronts was sooooo much easier than using a brush....in fact, I cant imagine using brushes for this
Definitely tape the fretboard off with painter's tape! It's specifically designed to seal/stick well and release cleanly/easily. Aside from using it to tape off guitar necks, as a former roller derby ref we used it to tape down tracks on top of expensive roller skating rinks floors. Always came up easily!
welcome! if you want a regular set, i have this one and i'm very happy with the quality and performance of them.
Get a box of TSP. Mix according to directions, if you have sensitive skin, feel free to wear gloves, I never bother and it has had no impact on my skin. Wash the walls down good with that before painting, it'll remove grime, and the shine from previous coats. Don't forget to let it dry completely before painting. Unless you are somewhere very humid a half hour is sufficient.
This will allow your new paint to adhere to the wall much better.
Yes. It will look fine, esp with a clean / sharp paint line cut in where wall meets molding. I also wouldn't bother scraping out any old paint or caulk. Waste of time and would make zero diff. in finished job. Might also want to clean up and paint that bb heat sheet metal while your at it.
Where I'm coming from - 18 ys experience doing this kind of work.
I suppose, if you really want to put a ton more time in to this you could get a set of contour scrapers and scrape the top molding down but honestly that won't make a huge diff in finished project.
https://www.amazon.com/Hyde-Tools-10450-Contour-Changeable/dp/B000W65L7E
Did you save it, or is it gone? It can be reattached if not lost or damaged. Get some of this stuff to replace the original tape.
One option is furniture securing straps. If you live somewhere prone to earthquakes, you've probably seen them before.
The same people also make special putty for securing stuff to shelves. That was very helpful for childproofing at my house.
While this can't fix the existing scratches, if you are serious about protecting your frame then consider applying some helicopter/racer tape to the most vulnerable areas.
It's basically a thick version of protective films they use on electronic screens. UV stable and can take a beating. Bonus is that it peels off without hassle or marks. A lot of the guys in my area use it to protect their carbon frames. Just clean the application area well with alcohol before putting the tape on.
http://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racerstape-com-Paint-surface-guard/dp/B000TPC7HU
https://www.amazon.com/Vaper-19419-Spray-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B0035FH906/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523903457&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+cleaner+can we started using something like this at a shop I worked at for our press wash; it worked great.
I was just turned on to Perfect Plastic Putty https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076LAVFK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1BKVSJG1RNAQO
Sounds like exactly what you need.
I'd actually recommend Museum Putty. It doesn't leave a residue like standard blue sticky tack and it'll provide just enough hold to keep components from blowing away. Additionally, it won't obstruct the front of the components.
We use it to prevent cat-lateral damage, but if you kept a slab of this at the table within easy reach I think it would serve you well.
> Also if anyone has tips on how to make an alcohol based dye more consistent overall I'd love to hear them.
I've primarily used Fiebing's oil-based die, but with that I've found using a Preval sprayer has given fantastic even colour without splotches or visible gradients.
if you need to clean up flat top surfaces try a small cabinet scraper like this
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524097457&sr=8-2&keywords=small+cabinet+scraper
I would use this product and after the necessary time, remove it with a plastic scraper. You might need a gallon, depending on the size of the wall. That tile is beautifully well preserved.
>... I just reenter it and it stays.
Have you tried using some 3M double sided tape on the sides to improve adhesion? Just those three small strips hold that thing down like an anchor.
Yellow Frog tape is meant for delicate surfaces, like uncured paint. They still recommend a minimum of 24 hours before applying tape.
I've never used one, but I used to sell tons of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-2000874-Premium-Paint-Edger/dp/B0001MQI9E
You'll still want to wait as long as possible for the first color to dry before running this tool up against it. If they work as well as people tell me you won't need tape.
If you are going to paint. Consider a sodium hydroxide exterior wood stripper. That will take anything off.
otherwise I carry this in my store. good amazon reviews. I found it works well and not caustic to work with and doesn't alter the PH of the wood so no need to neutralize after applying
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-Away%C2%AE-Sample-Remover/dp/B001PCVKLK/
http://www.bombingscience.com/graffiti-shop.htm
I had ordered a grab bag of tips from them awhile back on a kick to try my hand at painting with spray cans. When I went to dip I just found one that fit and sprayed fat.
Handle: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EQEE82/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2BEIJEESJKGKN&coliid=ILZ4R4YQQXXPM
You could use double sided tape like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1517867355&sr=1-3&keywords=3m+vhb
The con is that you might not be able to remove it so easily. This stuff is pretty extreme.
For soldering preparation, I typically use alcohol with q-tips for cleaning the contacts, and alcohol with tissue for wiping the wires and the solder.
For clean-up, I use acid brushes with the bristles trimmed down to 1/4 to 1/2 in or so dipped in alcohol. It works absolute wonders and takes care of flux like nothing else. https://www.amazon.com/RAM-PRO-Flexible-Horsehair-Bristle-Tubular/dp/B01LXNQW9W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=acid+brush&qid=1562073005&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
I'm using this tape to cover the back for now, and it is a lot grippier than the bare aluminum, the back glass, or even my plastic screen protector. If they use a similar material it should have some grip. "Self-Healing, flexible, tough, military-grade thermoplastic urethane, designed to absorb impact" sounds grippy. Good point about peeling. Maybe clear adhesive film for the back plus a bumper case would be a good combo.
I have Thule Atmos X3 case on my old phone, and it's awesome. It's thin and unobtrusive (adds maybe 2-3mm thickness), but it protected that phone every time I dropped it. It's made of high quality co-molded materials with a subtle design and variety of textures. Too bad they seem to have given up on Android phones.
This stuff, aka painter's tape, for those that don't wanna click.
Edit to add - vinegar also helps remove rust, and if you're afraid steel wool will be too abrasive, use aluminum foil as your scrubber. Foil and vinegar is a long-standing rust removal tool, but use only tiny amounts of vinegar, you don't want it to drip down along the side of the pole inside the pickup.
Add'l edit to add - anything that removes the rust is going to make it go somewhere - I read that having a vacuum running while you do it is a good precaution to keep the tiny rusty bits being removed from getting everywhere.
This is the exact thing I got.
Kind of pricey but it seems like the roll will last for every bike I ever own.
I use ISC Racers Tape.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000TPC7HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_595SCbRDHK3ZP
Not just water, but slightly soapy water. It breaks the surface tension on the water allowing it to completely cover the adhesive so you can easily position it on the frame. Lots of soapy water. You can't use too much. Be careful not to get water on the backing paper before peeling off the tape. It has a tendency to pull apart and stick to the tape if you get it wet. If your hands are wet with soapy water you can handle the adhesive side without leaving fingerprints. I use a dish towel to squeegee and dry around the edges. It won't start to stick well until it squeegees out and dries. If it slips when your squeegeeing splash more soapy water on it and have another go at it.
I just wrapped a new steel hardtail in 1", 2", and 4" tape because it's gonna take a thrashing.
I painted my stairwell this weekend and used this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001MQI9E. worked great.
Edit: I also used a 10 or 12 ft extension.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PGQI48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy that. I have one and it's awesome. Use that with lacquer from Sherwin Williams. It was a total game changer for me. I may never brush on a finish again.
I have found that getting a spray can trigger makes a huge difference for me. It changes the angle at which I hold the can to something more natural for me and the trigger makes pressing the spray button smoother and more consistent.
Here is a link to Amazon. Looks like something similar. Might be a little easier to get there.
It's at the big box hardware stores also.
Card scrappers are good for getting glue off. They even work well in corners.
Add a little bit of TSP to the detergent cup every time you wash. TSP is pretty much pure phosphates. Only do this is your municipality allows phosphates in the water supply, though.
TSP on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10621-Trisodium-Phosphate-16oz/dp/B0001GOGQW
I recently bought and used this to build some cabinets for my utility room. It worked pretty well once I figured out the settings/paint consistency.
Ultimately, you are buying a $100 paint gun, more likely than not it will not work perfectly. I will say I was pleased with my purchase though.
It's a little pricey, but I've heard good things about helicopter tape:
LINK
https://www.amazon.com/3M-ScotchBlue-Painters-Tape-Multi-Surfaces/dp/B00004Z4BB?th=1
This stuff is an absolute godsend for dorm walls
Or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU if you don't like black ;-)
I'd also recommend taping the entire bike with it anyway because paint chips even more quickly when you bikepack haha. (Or at least, the down tube and the chainstays in addition to where the bags touch the frame)
Perfect Plastic Putty made by DELUXE MATERIALS
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076LAVFK
You can get clear 'helicopter' tape from Amazon for a reasonable price to replace that, and maybe add some to the underside of your downtube, too, if it doesn't already have it.
As an example (I've never used this - I'm not specifically recommending this brand):
https://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racers-Tape-HT2128-Transparent/dp/B000TPC7HU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3
As an out of box collector I have come to rely on museum putty, cheap and very effective. http://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457246633&sr=8-1&keywords=quake+hold
My scraper has a brush side, and on that same side also has a rubber like bar that I can use on my car and paint will be fine. Then of course the other end is a scraper.
Like this
If you want that specific bag to have water resistance, you can add a hydrophobic coating to it with this [Rust-Oleum spray.](Rust-Oleum 278146 NeverWet 11-Ounce Outdoor Fabric Spray, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KRHF8E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AuQ-zbEF5DKD1) Then it'll be perfect for everything but extended submersion.
There's also a multipurpose variant in [a can.](Rust Oleum 274232 Never Wet Multi Purpose Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNQBFAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EvQ-zbMNGXTYW)
3M VHB tape. This stuff will stick to anything and will go down to sub zero temps. Make sure everything is dry when applying and prep all the surfaces that the VHB tape sticks to with 3M 94 tape primer.
​
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549918879&sr=8-4&keywords=3M+VHB+tape
​
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-02oz-Vinyl/dp/B005LDKTV6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549916087&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=3M+94+primer&psc=1
​
Fellow southern Californian. This product might be useful:
Quakehold! 88111 Museum Putty Neutral https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002VA9NA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NqvVAb0CS82N0
Check out Never Wet. I've heard good things!
I’ve found this set incredibly useful when scraping off paint which has been softened by stripper.
https://www.amazon.com/Hyde-Tools-Available-10450-Changeable/dp/B000W65L7E/
3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mI8CZO4gVAsfR
That stuff works wonders. I used 4 strips and it is up there haha.
I can't say anything about the Silent Paint Remover, but it basically looks like a gigantic heat gun. Heat guns are fantastic for removing paint from trim, especially with a profile/contour scraper set. As long as you're not stripping the entire side of a house, you should be able to get away with a cheaper hairdryer style heat gun that runs around $40.
If you can't get an airbrush anytime soon, something like this can improve your use of a spray can.
This tool helped a lot for edging in our house. We didn't even have to tape for it. Just kept a damp rag on hand for quickly wiping up mistakes.
It does need an actual hard edge to work well though. If your baseboards end in a soft curvy finish, you'll probably still want to tape them.
Instead of PB Blaster, try ATF mixed with acetone. I used that while doing mine and it made the work much easier than PB Blaster did.
I just pour the mix in [This] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035FH906/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and shake before I spray. It really helps with really tight and stuck on bolts.
This stuff is really nifty for keeping stuff from falling.
Quakehold! 88111 Museum Putty Neutral
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002VA9NA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bWTPAbWX379DW
museum putty helps with this
If you read the packaging, on the upper left it says "FROSTED CLEAR".
If you read the description of the product on their website, it states "Sprays clear and dries to a flat light haze"
The frosted hazing is normal.
I use plastic razors as a first “scrape” pass and then Gorilla clear tape as a “clean up” pass.
We used to order it in the 55 gallon drums at my old shop.
Pump some in to a SureShot container, pressurize it with the air chuck and you're good to go!
https://www.amazon.com/Vaper-19419-Spray-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B0035FH906/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522672918&sr=8-1&keywords=sureshot
I had a problem with the original PS tape as well, it stuck for about 20 mins before it came off. I work in an automotive test lab and we use 3M’s VHB double sided tape for sticking instrumentation and other stuff inside and out side of cars. It sticks even inside of hot cars and outside in cold weather. This is what I use on my pop socket and leather case. Just use an alcohol wipe to clean the surfaces.
All three are pretty sturdy actually and don't require any careful positioning. Try different surfaces as well. And if all else fails, use display putty.
ScotchBlue Original Multi-Surface Painter’s Tape, .70 inch x 60 yard, 2090, 1 Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_11y6CbB0P2K7S
TSP or trisodium phosphate Is the magic solution
http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10621-Trisodium-Phosphate-16oz/dp/B0001GOGQW
I was curious too, I think it might be this one: http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518080-Control-Spray-Sprayer/dp/B003PGQI48
No glossifer, just 6 cans of color. One can per wheel, and 2 for mudflaps.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E975LQ8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Though I did purchase the spray gun, and I highly recommend that. It worked amazingly well!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002EQEE82?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
I have a very curious cat, and I also have some sentimental, breakable items that I'd like to keep in once piece, but also have out on shelves. I invested in some museum putty, and every single thing in my home that isn't food has survived his antics. https://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493008406&sr=8-1&keywords=quakehold
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtkBZHLJyD0
Here's a way to use the router to flatten a piece. I adapted this to smaller use by finding to boards I knew to be flat and making the sled ride on top of them.
If you still have some ridges after this, or just generally needs some smoothing, get a card scraper ( i got these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C06BLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to knock them down and then follow up with some sanding up to 220 grit.
Something like this should be fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002VA9NA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can also use the cheaper blue sticky tacky for posters, I guess, but I haven't tried that.
It's a product as well as ingredient
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001GOGQW
TPS also works well as a degreaser.
Make sure your windshield wiper fluid is freeze proof to -20F (If you bought it in CA, then it will not be)
Buy a good ice scraper for your windshield for defrosting in the morning. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-2610XM-Subzero-Extender-Snowbroom/dp/B0016GRTVU
Amazon, most hardware or automotive stores would have some variant. It goes by a bunch of different names. This is one example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU/
Amazon sells these. Among other scrapers.
Any woodworking store will carry them, probably not Home Depot or Lowe's. Amazon has them at https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE, I think I got mine from Busy Bee in Canada.
$31 on Amazon for 18oz
You want plastic razor blades.
https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Scrapers-Contoured-Refillable-Application/dp/B076BBW1WM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=plastic+razor+blade&qid=1568816210&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSlc0M0NQTkkzSFJDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjI3NDg5M09TSkVBOTJJV1pIOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM2MzYwM0xLREs0T05IVjhJUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Just finished taping up my new bike about 2 hours ago.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Used that stuff. Never really bothered before other than the chain stay to protect it from chain slap but new bike is carbon and pricey. It went on easy using the soapy water method. Only real issue I have is it is glossy and the frame is matte so it is fairly obvious. I also used some 3m 2228 mastic tape in areas it would be a pita to use the other stuff and more likely to take heavy hits.
You can get a home test kit. You make a cut through the layers to expose all layers. It'll tell you.
But don't eat it. I'm not so sure about heating it either. Lead vaporizes at 1100°. How hot is your heat gun?
I'd go with a good stripper.
Smart Strip by Peel Away® One Quart ‘Sample Size’ Paint Remover
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PCVKLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cVzcBbVBVB6Y9
Look for 3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CgH3CbR1PN0F6
Its exactly what you want.
Oops my bad I’m at work so just skimming. No me and my roommate work in body shops and we each got one from our shops lol. We use plastic blades to peel off decals and bumper stickers and whatnot.
FOSHIO 2PCS Plastic Razor Scrapers Knife with Contoured Grip + 100 PCS 1.5 inch Refillable Double Edge Plastic Razor Blades Ideal for Auto Window Tint Vinyl Tool Application https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BBW1WM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T0GjDb9ZB50AX
My wife swears by Quake Hold putty.
Best thing to do if it's been used for food and has absorbed any grease, wax, sealer, etc. is to use cabinet scrapers and try to get as much of the gunk off so that you can sand dry wood. I made the mistake of trying to sand a used BB cutting board and wasted a lot of time just gumming up the sandpaper. The cabinet scrapers would probably do a lot to minimize airborne bacteria as well.
you can use helicopter tape/racers tape to prevent that.
It appears to be painter's tape which doesn't leave a residue.
https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-70-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B00004Z4BB
Trisodium Phosphate
It's in the paint section at Lowes/Home Depot. You might find it elsewhere. I've never used it personally, but I know it has a shit-ton of uses.
wiki entry
In any hardware store by the paint. Or here: http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10621-Trisodium-Phosphate-16oz/dp/B0001GOGQW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426228415&sr=8-2&keywords=tsp
Same item, but desktop site:
Shur-Line 500 Premium Paint Edger
Museum putty:
http://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA
We SoCalians invest in Museum Putty. : )
https://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA
+1 for board-mounted pots, or board-mounted-something-that-also-attaches-to-the-enclosure.
But for stripboard builds I've been using a few little balls of this putty stuff on the back of the board, it works both to insulate and keep the board in place.
https://smile.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3GSDWI8M67Q2R&keywords=earthquake+hold+museum+putty&qid=1557850809&s=gateway&sprefix=museum+earth%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-3
Quakehold! Museum Putty
Not glue, museum putty.
Get some Quake Hold from Home Depot
This stuff
http://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-88111-Museum-Putty-Neutral/dp/B0002VA9NA
Some kind of museum putty or blu tack?
In fact the first search result for museum putty is called Quakehold so there you go.
Mobocrat707, meet Quakehold. Quakehold, meet Mobocrat 707
Museum putty is made for this exact application.
Quakehold! 88111 Museum Putty Neutral
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002VA9NA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the stuff I use:
http://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racerstape-com-Paint-surface-guard/dp/B000TPC7HU?
Do you have one of those telescoping jobbers? I'm also short and the telescoping variety was a game changer for me.
I live in an area with heavy snowfall and prefer this type of brush since it removes a lot of snow quickly. Not necessarily recommending that specific model- mine is one my dad bought at some random auto parts store.
Extendable ice scraper, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016GRTVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484070791&sr=1-4&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4718393011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=31RvFRZrSiL&ref=plSrch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016GRTVU/r
Could it be used as a scraper for the concave surfaces of mouldings?
An adjustable version of https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492648700&sr=8-1&keywords=cabinet+scraper+set
$5.24
https://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82
Yup, OP needs one of these and one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518080-Control-Spray-Sprayer/dp/B003PGQI48/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421887062&sr=1-1&keywords=airless+paint+sprayer&pebp=1421887075490&peasin=B003PGQI48
That makes sense. I have the one in the Wiki!
https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518080-Control-Spray-Sprayer/dp/B003PGQI48
I was looking at this one. any thoughts?
Made just for that
https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-BD44-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK
Hydrophobic coatings have been a thing for a while. You can do the same thing for much, much cheaper.
$29 for 4 ounces. Rustoleum Neverwet is only $15 for 18 ounces and does the same thing.
problem solved
What about some of this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Oleum-274232-Never-Multi-Purpose/dp/B00DNQBFAW
Amazon has it.
It is 3M double sided mounting tape. Specifically, either this: Scotch Extreme Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 400-inches, Black, 1-Roll (414-LONGDC) - 414-LONG/DC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FUEN2GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDlGDbQE76Q91
Or
3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qElGDbGTXMETR
FTFY:
It is 3M double sided mounting tape. Specifically, either this: Scotch Extreme Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 400-inches, Black, 1-Roll (414-LONGDC) - 414-LONG/DC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FUEN2GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDlGDbQE76Q91
Or
3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 4.6 meters. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qElGDbGTXMETR
_____
^(I'm a bot) ^| ^Feedback ^| ^Stats ^| ^Opt-out ^| ^(v5.0)
This is the same tape but you get twice as much material for $2 more
If you use 3M's VHB tape, it has an rating for 90° C during use. It's the same tape used for putting up some road signs. It's also the same adhesive use on the Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener (Heavy Duty Velcro) to attach electronic toll collection tags to car windshields.
here ya go
Use a plastic razor
https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Scrapers-Contoured-Refillable-Application/dp/B076BBW1WM/ref=asc_df_B076BBW1WM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309805457405&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2768152868600843908&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029703&hvtargid=pla-570646761565&psc=1
It should be thin enough to atleast take a bit out and If not you could sandpaper it down