Reddit mentions: The best houshehold finishes, sealers & stains
We found 387 Reddit comments discussing the best houshehold finishes, sealers & stains. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 173 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Pour-On Epoxy Finish Is Equal To 60 Coats Of Varnish And Provides A Gorgeous High Gloss Appearance
- Indoor/outdoor
- Rich, semi-gloss sheen
- Superior color and sheen retention after repeated heating
- Do not use in areas directly exposed to flames (e.g., inside of grills or fireplaces)
- 12 oz. Spray
Features:
2. Epifanes Clear Varnish
World famous, highest quality traditional tung oil marine spar varnish.Formulated with tung oil, phenolic and alkyd resins resulting in a finish that has superior flow, gloss, durability, and exceptional longevity.UV filters for superior protection with an ultra high gloss finishUsed in many applica...
Specs:
Color | clear |
Release date | July 2011 |
3. UNDERSTANDING WOOD FINISHING by BOB FLEXNER
- Bob Flexner has been writing & teaching wood finishing for 18 years.
- Completely updated second edition of UNDERSTANDING WOOD FINISHING.
- The most practical, comprehensive book on finishing ever published.
Features:
4. The Army Painter Anti Shine Matt Varnish for Miniature Painting - After Quickshade Matte Top Coat Acrylic Spray Varnish for Miniatures - Matte Finish Spray for Acrylic Model Paint, 400ml, Can
- TAILORED TO REMOVE SHINE AND GLOSSY LOOK : Removes shine after painted with Quickshade or acrylics
- BORN FROM GAMING: Get awesome painted plastic models or craft on the table for a great game!
- RETAINS METALLIC SHINE: Gives perfect matte finish while retaining shine from metal acrylic paint
- GIVES AN ELEGANT AND FINISHED LOOK: Make your miniatures look finished with this satin varnish spray
- WILL NOT CRACK AND CHANGE COLORS: Preserves all colors. If applied properly, it will never crack
- ACRYLIC, NONTOXIC - This varnish is Acrylic-based, transparent matte and dries very quickly
- LET PAINT DRY BEFORE USING: Let the Quickshade dry for minimum 48 hours before using the varnish
- APPLY IN A THIN COAT: Test on a model first before spraying the whole army
- IDEAL PAINT SEALER & CLEAR COAT SPRAY Retouch gloss of protruding details and protect your minis
- NOT IDEAL FOR: Do not use acrylic spray paint varnish in humid conditions and cold outdoor weather
Features:
Specs:
Color | Anti Shine Matt |
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 2.5 Inches |
Size | 13.5 Fl Oz (Pack of 1) |
Weight | 0.8377565956 Pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
5. Minwax 60910000 Wipe-On Poly Finish Clear, quart, Satin
Easy to apply - no drips or brush marksProtects wood against water, household chemicals, food stains and wearProvides a hand-rubbed lookProtects against water, household chemicals, food stains and wearMade of a high quality oil-based polyurethaneAvailable in Gloss or Satin
Specs:
Color | Quart |
Height | 7.75 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Satin |
Weight | 2 Pounds |
Width | 3.5 Inches |
6. Watco 241758 Butcher Block Oil & Finish, Clear
- Protects interior wood surfaces such as butcher blocks, cutting boards, salad bowls and more
- Non-toxic, food safe wood oil is easy to apply with no brush marks
- Dries to the touch in 2 hours and covers up to 50 sq. ft. , ready for use after 72 hours
- Easy wipe-on application with a clean cloth - meets government standards of 21 CFR 175. 300
- Enhances and maintains wood items with a rich, lustrous sheen
- Easy wipe-on application.
- The rich sheen enhances the wood while it protects.
- Food-safe formulation.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 6.5 Inches |
Length | 3.875 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 1.1 Pounds |
Width | 1.75 Inches |
7. Minwax 63010444 Fast Drying Polyurethane Clear Finish, quart, Satin
Provides long-lasting beauty and protection to any interior wood surfaceAmong the most durable coatings for wood protectionIdeal for woodworking, furniture, doors, cabinets and floorsCan be used on both finished and Unfinished woodIt provides long-lasting protection and beauty to interior wood surfa...
Specs:
Color | Quart |
Height | 4.89 Inches |
Length | 4.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Quart |
Weight | 2.0499999982809 Pounds |
Width | 4.25 Inches |
8. General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Oil Based Topcoat, 1 Quart, Semi-Gloss
- Arm-R-Seal topcoats are made with only the highest quality urethane resin
- These topcoats are extremely durable and long lasting
- They are formulated to be wiped on with a cloth or applied with a foam brush
Features:
Specs:
Color | Semi-Gloss |
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Quart |
Weight | 1.99 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
9. Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Color Kit - Wood Stain Kit
Wood dye from Keda Dyes can make 5 quarts of liquid dye stain, in 5 exotic wood dye colors per kit.Wood Dyes are eco-friendly, offer vibrant wood dye colors, and are very powerful.
Specs:
Color | Black, Blue, Brown, Red, Yellow, all in one wood stain colors set |
Height | 0.5 Inches |
Length | 7 Inches |
Weight | 0.0625 Pounds |
Width | 4.5 Inches |
10. General Finishes High Performance Water Based Topcoat, 1 Quart, Satin
- Do not apply clear topcoats over bright white paint, as yellowing may occur due to a reaction to the substrate. Light color paints may also experience yellowing due to topcoat application, but it will less noticeable.
- The hardest, most durable consumer polyurethane top coat on the market today
- Dry Time Between Coats is only 1 to 2 Hours
- Interior use only
Features:
Specs:
Color | Satin |
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Quart |
Weight | 2.4 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
11. Rust-Oleum Parks Super Glaze, 241352 Ultra Glossy Epoxy Finish and Preservative Kit, Clear 32 Fl Oz
Durable and waterproofIdeal for table and bar tops, crafts and refinishing furnitureCan be used on almost any interior surfaceResists heat and chemicalsOne pour is as thick as 75 coats of varnish
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 4.75 Inches |
Length | 4.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 32 oz |
Weight | 2.45 Pounds |
Width | 4.25 Inches |
12. Minwax 255554444 Minwaxc Polycrylic Water Based Protective Finishes, 1/2 Pint, Gloss
Protects and adds beauty to interior wood surfaces including woodwork, furniture, doors and cabinetsCrystal clear finish is ideal for use over light woods like maple, ash and birch as well as over Minwax Water-Based Wood StainsUltra fast-drying formula allows for quick recoats in 2 hoursWater-based ...
Specs:
Color | 1/2 Pint |
Height | 2.9 Inches |
Length | 2.8 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 8 Fl Oz (Pack of 1) |
Weight | 0.67749999943185 Pounds |
Width | 2.8 Inches |
13. Epifanes Clear Varnish (1000 ml)
- World famous, highest quality traditional tung oil marine spar varnish. Dry time at 65 degree Fahrenheit: Dry in 12 hours, recoatable in 24 hours
- Formulated with tung oil, phenolic and alkyd resins resulting in a finish that has superior flow, gloss, durability, and exceptional longevity.
- UV filters for superior protection with an ultra high gloss finish
- Used in many applications, both exterior and interior, household or marine, brushed, sprayed, or rolled and tipped.
- Use on new wood or restoring old wood to a deep clear finish, softwood or hardwood, marine or household applications.
Features:
Specs:
Color | clear |
Height | 7.87 Inches |
Length | 4.4 Inches |
Release date | July 2011 |
Size | 1000 ml |
Weight | 2 Pounds |
Width | 4.4 Inches |
14. General Finishes Wood Bowl Finish, 1 Quart
- Safe topcoat on wooden bowls, cups, spoons, decorative wood countertops or other wood surfaces that come into contact with food
- Created to be safe on wood surfaces that contacts food
- Not for actively used butcher block counter tops that are used for chopping and cutting
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Quart |
Weight | 2.1 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
15. Minwax 41700000 High Performance Wood Hardener, pint
- The hardener penetrates deep into the wood and its special resin binds and reinforces the decayed wood fibers
- High performance wood hardener seals from further moisture penetration and hardens to a rock hard solid base for lifting
- Recommended uses: windowsills, doors, woodwork, floors, decks, furniture, woodwork
- Penetrates deep, strengthening decayed wood
- Prepares rotted wood for Minwax High Performance Wood Filler
- Seals out moisture
- 1 pint
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 2.69 Inches |
Length | 7.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Pint |
Weight | 0.89999999924527 Pounds |
Width | 2.69 Inches |
16. Sunnyside Corporation 87232S Boiled Linseed Oil, Quart
Penetrates and protects wood creating a quality finish for wood furniture and antiquesEnhances natural wood tones and grain patterns of woodExtends and fortifies oil-based paints and coatingsApply to unfinished wood onlyFast drying, usually within 12-18 hours depending on conditionsDerived From The ...
Specs:
Color | Boiled Linseed Oil |
Height | 7.44 Inches |
Length | 2.39 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Quart |
Width | 4.59 Inches |
17. EPOXY Resin 1 Gallon Kit. for Super Gloss Coating and TABLETOPS
- Super Gloss Durable Finish
- Water resistant
- Self leveling
- Odorless
- Detailed instruction included with each kit
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 10 Inches |
Weight | 8 Pounds |
Width | 10 Inches |
18. Minwax 70012444 Wood Finish Penetrating Stain, quart, Dark Walnut
Available in 28 beautiful colors.Can be used to add beauty to any bare or stripped wood surface.It is ideal for staining unfinished wood furniture, cabinets, wood door, trim, molding and hardwood floors.Penetrates deep into wood fibers to highlight the grainAmerica's favorite wood finish
Specs:
Color | Quart |
Height | 4.9212598375 Inches |
Length | 4.330708657 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Dark Walnut |
Weight | 2 Pounds |
Width | 4.9212598375 Inches |
19. Formbys 30013 Furniture Refinisher, 32-Ounce
- Easily dissolves old varnish, lacquer, and shellac
- No sanding or scraping necessary
- Finish with an application of Tung Oil
- Easily dissolves old varnish, lacquer and shellac
- No sanding or scraping
- With the help of fine steel wool, old finish is melted down completely without taking color from wood or raising veneers
- After surface dries, a protective finish of Tung oil should be applied
- 32-Ounce
Features:
Specs:
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 32 oz |
Weight | 2 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
20. Minwax 40910000 Wipe-On Poly Finish Clear, pint, Satin
Easy to apply - no drips or brush marksProtects wood against water, household chemicals, food stains and wearProvides a hand-rubbed lookProtects against water, household chemicals, food stains and wearMade of a high quality oil-based polyurethaneAvailable in Gloss or Satin
Specs:
Color | Pint |
Height | 6.75 Inches |
Length | 2.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Satin |
Weight | 1.33 Pounds |
Width | 2.75 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on houshehold finishes, sealers & stains
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where houshehold finishes, sealers & stains are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Nope, although you might get away with it depending on your goals.
Finishing wood for outdoors is really difficult, largely because of the UV exposure. Almost any finish breaks down over time and needs reapplied every so often, but if the finish isn't UV-stabilized specifically for outdoor use, that process takes days or weeks instead of years.
The most protection you can give wood is paint, or a semi-opaque deck stain, which is pretty much the same thing. If you don't want to obscure the grain that much, you need to look at marine varnishes, since they're typically formulated for serious long-term exposure. Epifanes Classic is widely regarded as one of the best options, but any boat supply place will have other options. Follow the directions exactly, no matter how complex the coating schedule. "Spar urethane" from a hardware store, like Minwax Helmsman, is plenty waterproof and can handle a bit of sunlight, but it can't handle long-term daily exposure like the better finishes. Unfortunately, even those better finishes will eventually break down and need recoated.
Another option is to skip the finish entirely. Trees spend quite a lot of time outdoors, and perhaps unsurprisingly some species are quite good at it even once you strip off the bark. Ipe, osage orange, black locust, and teak are some of the best choices, and white oak, western red cedar, and black walnut are pretty decent as well. Those woods, with no finish at all, will survive longer than most wood finishes.
If you happened to make your marker out of a resilient wood, the Danish oil won't help much but also won't hurt. You could stick it outside now and likely be fine for a decade or two. If it's not one of those woods, spend some time putting a high-end marine varnish on. It'll still need touched up occasionally, but that'll give it a shot.
Ultimately, I hope you're not expecting a century of service out of this. Wood is great, but tombstones are usually granite for a reason.
As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...
Hand Tools
Power Tools
Also, there are fluids to consider
Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.
I would suggest:
Basic process (You have the video to fallow, but these steps are general steps for almost all woodworking finish)
Other Options, instead of Laquer:
Good job (although I don't think you'll need that much maple ;) .) And hey, if you're crafty and feeling like making some guitar tools, you can use some of that maple, epoxy and a single-cut file (medium or fine) to make a fret-leveling file! I always keep some pieces of HD maple laying around, it comes in handy for all sorts of projects (plus it's strong and cheap!)
BTW, here's a link to Keda Dyes on Amazon, although they're available from their own site as well. The packets are small, but it's super concentrated (as are most powdered aniline dyes), so a little bit goes a long way. For $13 shipped, you might be interested in trying them out.
Here's a link to Fiebings Leather Dye, if you're considering giving that a go. Note that it's alcohol-based, so you can thin them out with alcohol if necessary (they're pretty heavy colors, so thinning would probably be a good thing; you can always add extra coats, but you'll have a lot of sanding to do if you put on too much!) Woodcraft and Rockler both carry some dyes as well, and Woodcraft is just a great place to shop anyway.
Thanks dude! And, yeah that's an awesome design, I think it'd make a cool deck too.
I'll let you in on a secret that took me forever to figure out: the best way to make masking / stencils is to get yourself some transparency sheets, like the kind used for overhead projectors in school, and then take a marker and draw what you want to spray through (best way to make stencils). Then take a 'wood burning kit' (which is just a low-heat soldering gun pretty much) and use it to "trace" your lines on the transparancy sheet, do it light and quick and it'll cut the parts out that you want - afterwards you'll be left with a mask or stencil that's much stronger than paper, easy to clean, and the wood engraver allows you to make more detailed and smoother cuts than if you were masking with tape, or cutting out of cardboard or card stock.
When you finish your painting, you'll want to give it a light coat of clear spray finish, and when that dries hit it with a coact of actual clear coat - I use minwax - that''s 'satin' (which is their way of saying 'matte') listed there but I prefer mine to be gloss. It's important that you hit it with the spray finish first, because it'll seal the paint, and the minwax may cause it to run if you don't. I use a lot of markers in my paintings and minwax will absolutely make them bleed and run if I don't seal them first.
You also want to seal it because the acrylic will easily chip off the deck
Like I said, also be aware that painting on a deck is A LOT different than painting on canvas, the deck will cause the acrylic to paint much faster than canvas so you lose that 'wet period' you normally have to blend paint.
Good luck, post a picture when you finish it! And feel free to drop me a line if you have any other questions.
I'm working right now on getting a finish much like what you're describing that is based off a sister product to the one Gomlemer noted. I used this epoxy mainly cause it was available in small quantities at the local big box stores on short notice.
I want a finish for reclaimed wood that retains the history but still looks and feels great. Plus i didn't want the finish to be crazy thick. I wanted the holes filled, but the subtle contour of the wood to still be present.
Here's where i went with my finish. I used a clear coat poly to bring out the wood grain and make it pop. (not sure yet if you need this step). Then i used mixed the epoxy per the instructions on the box, but thinned it with about 10% to 20% acetone. Once I had the final mixture I brushed it on. I went over that sucker a bunch making sure no drips were forming cause i eventually got it on pretty thick, but certainly not as thick as just pouring it on and spreading it. Once it set but not cured about 8-12 hours if it wasn't thick enough or there were spots that weren't smooth enough based on the wood contour i mixed a little more and went over those again with the brush.
After I was happy with the thickness of the epoxy I let it cure to it's high gloss finish. Then went over the entire surface with #0000 steel wool. Then a couple of layers paste wax later i was pretty happy with the finish.
As I'm still working on the finish for a large project I hope to take on this winter (a table from my grandfathers barn) i don't have any huge pieces to show, but here are a few shots from the test laptop table I put together to figure out the finish.
Play it some Daft Punk ;)
You can get wood stabilized through certain companies. Basically, they use proprietary means to infiltrate the surfaces with resins that essentially infuse the wood with plastic. You can also coat the wood with strong substances. There are actual products called wood hardeners meant more for bolstering rotting wood, but they'd probably toughen it up some. If you're just looking to strengthen the surface against dings and scratches, you can just do a nice, strong finish.
As to that, I don't know anyone who knows more about finishing wood than Jeff Jewitt. He has books on the subject. Good books. In this article by Jeff, he writes "In fact, oil-based varnish is the most durable finish that can be easily applied by the average woodworker. Varnish surpasses most other finishes in its resistance to water, heat, solvents and other chemicals." That might be a good choice.
Looks pretty easy. The basic steps are Sand, Seal, Stain, Finish
Okay, you've picked a pretty tricky first refinishing project. But lets get to it.
Legs: Lightly sand and use a shellac based primer. Shellac sticks to everything, so this will save you headache later. You won't need much, which is good, as shellac primer is a little expensive.
Top: Pine is a bitch to stain. Reading the description at Ikea's site, it would appear the top coat is lacquer. Which is good and honestly, a fine finish for the dining room. In large part because it is easy to refinish. Poly sucks for nice furniture just because of how tough it is. Anyway...
Start with something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Formbys-30013-Furniture-Refinisher-32-Ounce/dp/B0014JGFYG You want to be able to remove the top coat without mucking with the stain too much. There are other brands. Specifically look for something that disolves varnishes. Avoid full blown strippers. Follow the directions.
Once the top coat is gone, assess. If you're lucky, the stain is fine. Simply reapply another coat of lacquer. If you have to restain, you get some fun.
If the stain is mostly okay, you can try to touch up the problem spots. Understand that it may or may not work well. (Like I said, pine sucks here.) Trust your eyes and hands.
If the stain is more screwed, I'd lightly sand the whole thing. You probably won't get all of the stain out, but you can at least make it more even. Now apply a pre-stain conditioner. Then restain. Then lacquer.
Without the pre-stain conditioner, you will likely get blotching, which is how pine tends to fight you with stain. If you have more questions, fire away!
And Finally:
I'll need better, close up pictures of the scratches. You might, might might, MIGHT be able to simple apply a top coat of lacquer and have it clean up your scratches. Lacquer, like shellac, reactivates in the presence of solvent (lacquer thinner for lacquer, STRONG alcohol for shellac). This allows additional layers of finish to melt together with the previous finish. Again, if there are just light scratches, a little thinner on some steel wool rubbed gently over the whole surface and 2-3 new coats can cover up a lot of sins. I'd recommend not trying this without some very careful pictures for me to confirm it'll work.
I understand your wife's aesthetic concerns; a white kitchen really does brighten up a space, and the old wooden decor is extremely outdated and makes you feel like you're in the 80's nowadays. I recently repainted my kitchen cabinets as well: https://imgur.com/a/8zw3SZo
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I bought General Finishes milk paint. You don't need any other base coat or stripping original paint; just put it right on top the old wood. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JUP1WLM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Topped it off with some topcoat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DSZ3C8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Total paint cost about $160, and the additional paintbrushes/trays $30, so all in less than $200. It took me about 5 full (~8 hour) days; definitely a lot of work, but worth it for the value. Super happy with the end result given how cheap it was.
My recommended buying list for a new painter is:
Tools
Sprays
○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
Brushes
○ Round 0
○ Round 1
○ Round 2
All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby. Nt all of this is required, but it is nice to have.
This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)
For the wood, start with a Furniture Refinisher (Formbys's makes one). It's basically a low strength stripper and it allows you to clean up a lot of the damage without needed to completely strip the piece. It is incredible how much of the color fading, bleaching, and scratches that you can get rid of with refinisher. And it keeps as much of the original finish on that is still good so it protects the integrity of the piece. You don't want to strip and sand if you can help it because the entire piece will be veneer and it is very easy to wear through the top layer to the wood underneath and ruin it.
Speaking of, as another commenter mentioned that is not plywood, it is veneer. And I'm not sure it is oak. If you find out it is oak, be sure to look for a veneer that matches the quality and look of vintage oak, because it is not the same look as people use oak for now.
The top you may need to replace, or you may be able to spot fix. And the sides you may be able to gently coax/glue/clamp back into place. I would research veneer replacement and restoration to find out. Either way, you would only take off the very top layer (the thin veneer) and not the entire top and side, and that would be worst case scenario.
If you want to use this as an opportunity to learn beautiful wood finish, I can't recommend Charles Neil's Wood Finishing youtube channel enough. They are long, he's a talker, and he is amazing.
For the insides, I know nothing of electronics. I would probably try and vacuum it first before going to water. With restorations the trick is slow and steady. You do the least harsh method first and slightly upgrade aggressiveness if you need to. Much of the dust and dirt can be vacuumed out with a bristle attachment. When you say soap and water, I am assuming you mean slightly damp rag? Even then, I believe water can leave deposits, so make sure that is right.
Youtube has good videos, but make sure the person explains why you should use something or use a product. A lot of them rely on homespun wisdom that isn't really good advice (I already saw a bunch saying to clean with WD40 which is not a wood cleaner, don't do that). The pros will explain the reasons why and use it as a teaching moment. The home vloggers will just go through the process.
depending on how rough it feels I would suggest starting with an 80g or 100g and then finishing with 120g and 220g. You can skip the first one if it is not super rough. Get one of those sanding sponges with the different angles on them. That will be easier on you hand than just sand paper. Becasue of the shape you'll want something that you can wipe or spray on. Use 4-5 thin coats. The easiest/cheapest option would be a wipe on poly or even better an Aerosol Spar Urethane. EDIT Also, sand lightly in between coats with 220 or higher. This helps the next coat stick.
You might also consider trying to fix a few of those larger cracks by filling them in with a two part epoxy
Good luck! It will be a nice surprise for her when she returns.
Per Bob Flexner's book,
Warping like this is caused by compression shrinkage. When the wood fibers get wet, especially only on one side, they are limited in their ability to swell laterally, so they well longitudinally. This deforms the fibers, making them longer than they were. They then dry in that long, thin shape, and when they try to return to their original configuration while drying, they are now thinner than they were because of the deformation. This causes them to shrink tighter than they were, pulling the sides of the board into a cup.
The solution to this is counterintuitive but effective. Since you can't fix the wood fibers that have already deformed, you have to deform the other side to match it. Clamp the sides so the wood can't expand in that direction, then soak the bowed (not cupped) side with water and let it dry. You may need to do this several times, but now the fibers on the opposite side will deform, shrink, and pull the board back flat.
It looks like you may need to remove the finish from the top to pull this off, unfortunately, but it's likely the only way to approach a fix without removing wood from the piece. Good Luck!
Epifanes varnish. Use the Wood Finish Gloss to build up a smooth surface without sanding between each coat. Sand after a few coats and apply the Clear varnish for a stunning finish. It will give you the rich color you're after and the clear super smooth high gloss finish you want. Plus it has super UV and water resistance.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005ADX4N2/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SY115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=51QTN7uDRlL._SY200_QL15_&slTrans=0&ref=nsDpPl
http://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-ECVSA-Clear-Varnish/dp/B005ADWQ9U
https://www.amazon.com/Watco-241758-Butcher-Block-Finish/dp/B000VITOT4
I used the Rustoleum version of this on my shot glasses that I made recently. Holds up to alcohol pretty well and is food safe so I'm guessing the wear and tear is pretty good as well. I think the salad bowl stuff is essentially the same thing as well.
Hope this helps :)
I chose not to. I might regret that decision but my logic was the bed won't get handled enough to warrant a poly. Not like a floor, desk, table, cabinet, etc. Mattress and blankets cover most of it. I maybe should have done it just to be safe. Still easy enough to apply if I change my mind. I'm definitely going with a wipe on poly. Minwax makes an awesome one I've used before.
After you paint minis that you intend to play with it’s a good idea to seal them with varnish. It protects the paint job otherwise you can start to wear it down over time.
Generally, matte varnish is best unless you want really shiny - take a look at the army painter spray here:
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3003-Anti-Shine-Varnish/dp/B005WH4C2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=the+army+painter&qid=1555252570&s=gateway&sr=8-14
The reason you want to do it before basing them is the varnish will cloud up the clear base, so you want to get them all finished before re-basing them.
Hope this helps!
The best clear finish for wood, bar none, is this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-ECVSA-Clear-Varnish/dp/B005ADWQ9U
Highly recommend. Goes on smooth, and extremely durable. Also great customer support. You can contact the mfg if you have questions about application.
I spent about $1300 in walnut (103 BF 8/4", 24 BF 4/4") and $60 on the poplar (31 BF 4/4"). I way overbought on the walnut and probably still have 30-40 board feet left over (only 8/4") since I bought extra to pick out the best sections of each board.
The bolts aren't visible from the outside. Here's another picture of a test joint I did so you can see how the bolts work better https://imgur.com/a/O2lhpwe which I got from Rockler https://www.rockler.com/bed-rail-connection-system.
I've slept on the bed for about 3 months before I put the finish on it (Arm-R-Seal https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKNIDE4/) so I'm not concerned about the dowels breaking. Plus if they do break it's easy enough to take apart and put new dowels in or if I wanted to look into a metal rod instead of dowels.
Yes it's a Leesa mattress and I've been happy with it for the 2 years I've had it.
Yeah I patched the big voids with mortar. You can see a slight difference in color but it's not bad at all. My sink is ground/polished down to the point that there is a lot of exposed aggregate (and the surface had a shine before the epoxy, I guess from the polished silicon in the sand?), so there's a lot going on anyway.
If you are leaving any voids (which is fine, just make sure they can drain so that water doesn't sit in them), make sure to thoroughly vacuum them so there's no cement dust that could come loose.
I (think I) used this one: http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS
Here's a pic of the sink; it looks better in person :) http://imgur.com/a/k1lwZ#9
Hey I really appreciate it! I used Minwax brand everything for the stain and sealer. The first go around was not a success due mostly to the brush we used. I ended up using a black foam brush which worked much better. The legs and riser supports are painted white for a contrast (basic white paint). I try to keep things simple and realistic but also make it look nice. It may not be perfect but hopefully I get to keep improving!
I would be very careful with your decision. A countertop can be considered a food-contact surface, yes? You should strongly consider a food-grade sealer. Most sealers are highly toxic.
I recommend using a food-grade varnish. It’s far more durable and long-lasting than mineral oil, but not as much so as other sealers.
[Here is my favorite for cutting boards and such. ](General Finishes SBQT Salad Bowl Finish, 1 quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSXD7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lJn9AbRCA13JH) It isn’t cheap, but eating toxic substances won’t end up being cheap either.
Edit: hopefully a working link?
Btw: it’s waaaay cheaper anywhere else but amazon, for some reason.
this one, but im thinking of trying another in the future, its great for smaller projects but in a large application like this i couldn't fend of the micro bubbles to save my life. the smaller stuff i can put in my pressure pot and be done with it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pure tung oil is foodsafe. But you have to make sure what you buy is 100% tung oil, since lots of manufacturers put chemicals in with it to make it apply smoother, dry faster, etc.
For anything I want to be food safe, I generally use Watco Butcher Block Oil. It's probably about the same as tung oil to work with, as it makes a nice hard finish.
For non-food safe surfaces, I like poly better than anything else I've used.
I respectfully call Bullpucky on that.
"Almost any finishing product – stain, filler, glaze, finish – can be applied successfully over any other finishing product, except wax (including residue wax from paint strippers), as long as that product is dry." - Bob Flexner.
This article is good. His BOOK is even better.
K, if this is wrong, someone PLEASE, correct me! I'm here to be a good luthier, not cradle my ego.
I use an automotive paint for my color coats, see if you can find a local place that does custom jobs, my local shop has a binder as thick as a bible with color chips to choose from
For my clear coats, tint coats, sunbursts, etc I like Woodcraft's stringed instrument lacquer, it's basicall just a nitro finish, and I tint it with an ailide dye that I cut with alcohol
My biggest recommendation is get advise from a better luthier than myself. StewMac has a great book that has a lot of classic formulas, anf will give you all of the info you are looking for.
Edit: grammar/formatting is not my friend
I think you can get some epoxy resin to skim the top.
EPOXY RESIN CRYSTAL CLEAR 1 Gallon Kit. FOR SUPER GLOSS COATING AND TABLETOPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ed4bBb2D7YJGZ
Army Painter Matte Spray Varnish is what I use.
It's actually great to use on top of Gloss Varnish, since the gloss goes on thicker and does a good job of protecting the mini.
Matte on top of gloss will appear matte.
I haven't used it yet, but I'm about to try This and then some of This on top of some patio furniture. It's used on boats and is highly recommended. I hope it works.
I recently bought a bandsaw : Rikon 14" Deluxe so I needed a project that required a bunch of resaw work. What better than a chest of drawers?
Overall this chest of drawers took around 70 hours to complete, mostly because I didn't know what I was doing. I put a few layers of General Finishes Satin Polyurethane on all sides and the top.
I made it completely from scratch, and it was intended to just be a practice piece. I've never made drawers before, and never resawn wood before, so it was a great learning experience.
Comments? Criticisms? Let me know what you think!
Why do you think spar is more effort than poly, and why do you think it will take longer?
I stopped using normal spar urethane since they changed the formula to comply with the new VOC regulations here in the USA - it simply isn't what it used to be.
Lately, I only use Ephiphanes on my outdoor projects. It is really thick, but I thin it a good deal, and use multiple thin coats (just like poly). It is expensive, but worth it.
You can find it at Home Depot, too
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007177NZU?keywords=epoxy%20finish&qid=1449020221&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Might not penetrate as well, never used CA glue, but it'll definitely gap fill and then some.
It's often used for bar/table tops.
A clear pour over epoxy would be best. The water base varnish would not stand the test of time and you would eventually have the same peeling problem. Epoxy is bulletproof and isn't that hard to use. Something like this would work well.
Pour some epoxy over the top. It looks great and will totally protect the surface.
http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS
Give me minute to look up the video I saw but it is not that hard and the acid is very dilute. It takes less money than powdercoating and the finish is amazing. Plus it can be used to do multicolor effects. The bar top finish is an epoxy based finish. Ill look for a link brb.
Ok here it is the bartop finish
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PEGLBS?pc_redir=1396668298&robot_redir=1
And here is anodizing.
This guy is monotone but he is very clear.
http://youtu.be/sI-oiBKAyOY
http://youtu.be/m802YwZCj04
Multicolor mask technique
http://youtu.be/8OpewWuDJJE
I already etch boards this is not much more difficult
Plus you can do photoemulsion resist and do really crazy graphics.
I will be doing some of this in the next few months and will post my results.
One more for you; Looking at this on Amazon, any thoughts? Also, where I have a seam between edges from doing the outside and inside, will I want to buff or anything or is this going to be like concrete and slow and steady wins the race?
https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-255554444-Polycrylic-Protective-Finishes/dp/B000BZZ3S8/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=polyurethane&qid=1572928603&sr=8-2
Get a brush you don't care about, do 2-3 layers on the parts where its super obvious. Between that and judicious filing you can get areas like the legs looking a lot more natural.
If I were you, I would use 2 x 12" joist material. Laminate two lengths of the material together such that it becomes a 4 x 12". Then, you will want to have a support as /u/wbgraphic suggests out of the same 4 x 12 material. Since this will be outside (from the sounds of it), you will want to use titebond III and then finish the entire assembly in marine varnish for durability (epifanes http://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-ECVSA-Clear-Varnish/dp/B005ADWQ9U is some hardcore shit). I would also suggest that the entire support structure should be attached not just by lagging to one side of the pole, but via a complete wrap around the pole either with steel cable or some other such structure.
100lbs isn't that much weight, but if you're going to use it as a heavy bag for martial arts, there are quite a few lateral forces to contend with and not just static load. Research how heavy signs are hung from buildings using a boom arm and you'll have a better idea.
Exterior, Spar, or marine grade varnishes have UV blockers (usually) in them that normal interior finishes do not.
Epifanes is very popular and performed the best in a test in FWW #205
Nice work! I, too, started painting minis with Gloomhaven.
Don't try and seal them with clear nail polish, like an idiot I know. Get a spray can of Army Painter or something.
Something like this? Table looks amazing.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Finishes-SGQT-Arm-R-Seal-Semi-Gloss/dp/B00IKNIDE4/ref=sr_1_29?srs=3029218011&ie=UTF8&qid=1494281646&sr=8-29
I use:
EPOXY Resin Crystal Clear 1 Gallon Kit. for Super Gloss Coating and TABLETOPS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPtYDbX2C34AW
I used Minwax to stabilize about 12 sets of scales inside a pickle jar I turned into a vacuum with a brake bleeder and a brass fitting. So long as you don't manage to suck up the resin into the break bleeder it'll last long enough to get your moneys worth. Got about 27PSI with a full jar load which is enough so long as your scales are not too thick (over 1/2").
This video is basically the same thing I built but with a pump.
Haven't used it but I know cactus juice is very popular.
minwax woodhardener May help as well. Basically makes it plastic. Gonna need A LOT though to do the whole stool. The cracks will be through the whole piece.
Cool effect though is to let it crack. Then mix up clear epoxy with crushed turquoise, or some other stone/metal/etc and fill it back in.
Check out this video. youtube inlay with turquoise sand
Minwax Poly is this what you're talking about and if so, should I get the regular or water based. Also which size, quart or half a pint. There is also an aerosol version of the regular version and I was wondering if that is just as good. Thanks
Acacia us beautiful stuff.
I've used this liquid epoxy before for an outdoor sign I made, held up OK but in direct UV, it will need recoating every so often.
do a small test batch on scrap to get process down
For inside, should be fine
https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS
So you want to create your own butcher block?
If you just want to glue it, using a biscuit joiner would insure that it remains flat and level. The biscuits help lock it together.
For the finish, you want to look for the label "food safe". Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Watco-241758-Butcher-Block-Finish/dp/B000VITOT4
Gerneal Finishes Salad Bowl Finish
It recommends 3 coats, but I think I ended up with 5, sanding with finish grade steel wool between coats.
This is the second one I made, the first was for my oldest son about 4 years ago. The finish faded in luster considerably, so I thought adding a few more coats would help prolong the gleam.
you will want to use an epoxy finish, wood itself is obviously not water tight, and any typical finish like polyurethane are not permanently water tight. So you basicly need to coat the wood in clear plastic, atleast on the inside.
this would work https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS
Is this the kind of oil you'd use? I'm not familiar with this at all but it's big if true!
https://smile.amazon.com/SUNNYSIDE-CORPORATION-87232-1-Quart-Linseed/dp/B000C016PG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524592233&sr=8-2&keywords=boiled+linseed+oil
also, check out Understanding Wood Finishes by Bob Flexner amazon link
It's basically an encyclopedia on best practices for finishing and goes through specific techniques for a LOT of different kinds of wood.
I would stain first, and then use a high quality spar varnish like Epifanes to seal, waterproof, and UV protect the final product.
Yeah, especially to protect the (I'm assuming) non-oil-based, less-durable coats of paint underneath. http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=arts-crafts&qid=1301373510&sr=1-2
That looks like the elvis costello jazzmaster? The new reissue fender did was alder with a "walnut" finish and nitrocellulose lacquer. That guitar in the picture looks like it has a much more satin finish though, so you'd have to do some sanding to get it looking more flat instead of shiny. Either way alder with a dark stain will get you most of the way.
I've tried to do walnut stain on light wood before and it's had mixed results, often brings out too much of the grain (especially on pine) so be sure to test the stain on the interior of the pickup cavity before you do the whole thing.
I did. I found that sealing it with three coats of Shellac and finishing it with something like General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Semi-Gloss seemed to work very well
In case anyone wanted detailed instructions, I followed these steps: http://www.buildyourownpokertables.com/how-to-build-an-octagon-racetrack-poker-table
Cup Holders: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FAMCCA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Playing Cloth: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EU36SA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stain: Rust-Oleum Wood Stain Dark Walnut http://amzn.com/B00714KDV4
Polyurethane: Minwax Fast Drying Clear Satin http://amzn.com/B000VZLF58
Thanks for the reply! Is this a good one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B001OBMDXQ/ref=olp_twister_child?ie=UTF8&mv_color_name=1&mv_size_name=1&mv_style_name=0
Yeah I'm thinking about drinking out of it not sure how it will taste. I put on a food safe finish it's called watco http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VITOT4?pc_redir=1395431410&robot_redir=1
General Finishes “wood bowl finish”
GF products are excellent.
General Finishes SBQT Wood Bowl Finish 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSXD7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cKb1DbBH7NM9C
Sweet! Is this basically what I'm looking for?
https://www.amazon.com/General-Finishes-QTHS-Performance-Topcoat/dp/B001DSZ3C8/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1493682698&sr=1-6&keywords=general+finishes
That's fine but it's gloss. You're probably looking for satin finish. Not gloss. https://www.amazon.ca/Minwax-63010-Drying-Polyurethane-Finish/dp/B000VZLF58 something like this would work if you mix it 1:1 with mineral spirits. That's what I did.
It looks awesome, in the future if you want the layer lines to go away completely, put two to three (depending on layer height, larger needs more)very thin coats of Minwax Polycrylic on the model with a brush, it dries in about 15 - 20 mins, and just keep repeating until they are no longer visible. one pint will last a really long time.
https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-255554444-Polycrylic-Protective-Finishes/dp/B000BZZ3S8/ref=sr_1_2?crid=O04OC8LMAXD6&keywords=polycrylic+clear+gloss&qid=1567951875&s=gateway&sprefix=polycrylic+%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-2
I would put a layer of epoxy coating on top of the whole thing. Something like this should be available at a local big box store.
http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS
They might last longer than you think, but if you are looking to add some protection, just use something like this
Need to lube that pretty lady up.
Understanding Wood Finishing by Box Flexner has a whole section on French Polishing, well worth a read.
I made mine out of cypress (1 with a cedar inlay and cedar plugs) and treated them with Waterlox Marine Sealer and I think I'll do something different for the next ones. After 9 months and 2-3 coats on everything, I'm already starting to get some silvering. I think on the next set (that isn't painted) I'll try Epifanes Clear Varnish
Everyone's got to finish their projects, and I've found this book to be such a good resource:
https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U
An alternative to shellac would be wipe-on polyurethane. This is the stuff I use, works like a charm. Goes on thin so you don't have to worry about drips or runs. It does darken the wood a little bit since it's oil based, but that means that the grain and any figure also pops.
What would be the end result difference between the Shellac and the water based poly? I assume something like this? Minwax 255554444 Minwaxc Polycrylic Water Based Protective Finishes, 1/2 Pint, Gloss https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZZ3S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oDVKzbDNDMNAB
I just redid this thing A https://imgur.com/a/1feUU sanded to 150 grit with bare wood. I'm not sure there was any finish on it to begin with. I used this dye https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Aniline-Color-Powder/dp/B00BAKWTMQ 1/4 teaspoon in 8oz of denatured alcohol. 2-3 coats of the dye with a piece of t shirt. Black on the dresser and red on the drawers. It dries in like 30 seconds. The dye looks different when it dries, but polyurethane over top brings it back to how it looks when wet. Then I put on a few coats of old crusty oil based polyurethane with a $.50 harbor freight brush. Let the 2nd to last coat dry for 24 hours. Lightly sand and pick out the fibers shed by the brush. Then the final coat.
obligatory post for
http://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U
if you want to really understand this subject. get it, read it. I have read it several times.
it's like the bible of finishing.
Try:
https://generalfinishes.com/
If you want to really have an idea of what you're doing when finishing, I recommend Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner
Thank you!
I used KEDA Dye
https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U
Read this. It will help tremendously
Minwax 60910000 Wipe-On Poly Finish Clear, quart, Satin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OBMDXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4iGACbZFG5Q08
I could never seem to get a great finish with minwax polly, but then I switched to the Arm-R-Seal polly and it was night and day. very smooth and just all around a higher quality finish
Thank you. I bought these Leda dyes Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Colour Kit - Wood Stain Powder by Keda Dye https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BAKWTMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_u56KDbRYJDB31
I would use spar varnish with UV blockers, like a marine finish meant for boats, for example this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-ECVSA-Clear-Varnish/dp/B005ADWQ9U?th=1&psc=1
wood dye if you want color, spray tru oil or shellac. You can buy the tru oil spray cans online, not sure if they have in stores.
I recommend this
wood dye.
thank you for the reply!
i am in ID, USA.
Woodworking has been my hobby for a few years. I've tried brush stain on some of my projects but I haven't tried dye.
Do you think I can get this color by using the stain below?
https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-70012-Finish-Interior-Walnut/dp/B001CESFSM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467402865&sr=8-2&keywords=wood+stain
So the wood conditioner was just the standard Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-41500000-Pre-Stain-Wood-Conditioner/dp/B000C02AHY
For the poly, I plan on using some Minwax Polyurethane in clear satin
https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-63010444-Drying-Polyurethane-Finish/dp/B000VZLF58/
I know oil-based poly will leave a slight amber look as well...
Epoxy is a decent idea, but I'd add a couple of coats of good spar varnish on top of that. At that point, it doesn't much matter what type of wood you use.
Sure! I looked into it a while back for a project, but I never got around to the project.
Here's a website with direction directions:
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/horn/dhorn.html
And here's the varnish:
https://smile.amazon.com/General-Finishes-SBQT-Finish-Quart/dp/B001DSXD7A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=salad+bowl+varnish&qid=1562788235&s=gateway&sr=8-3
If you are having people sign the bare wood and then you want to cover it with something glossy i suggest epoxy. Something like this should do the trick. Check youtube for tutorials on how to use it, but it is fairly simple.
Can you order off Amazon? https://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-Clear-Varnish-1000-ml/dp/B005ADWKTG/ref=sr_1_1
No finish yet, but I was planning to use this marine grade varnish once the table top is on.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ADWKTG
Here's the wood filament (note that my printer takes 3mm filament, you might need the 1.75mm filament which they also have available): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L0ZLS5U/ . Alternatively, I've heard good things about hatchbox wood filament, but it wasn't available in 3mm on Amazon.
Here's the finisher: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CESFSM/ .
And here's a picture of this print from before I stained, to give you an idea of how it changes the print: https://m.imgur.com/a/NRulc
Edit: To get this level of darkness, I stained it twice, ten-fifteen minutes each.
Telecaster
Dye
https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U
This stuff, https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Aniline-Color-Powder/dp/B00BAKWTMQ/
Don't have much use for the red, yellow, and blue. I mostly used the brown with a touch of black.
maybe this? http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS
I haven't used food coloring yet, so can't really comment on that aspect of it, but I ordered some Keda Dye about a year ago because I wanted to experiment with aniline dye without blowing a chunk of change on TransTint. I mix it with DNA (water can be used as well) so I can flash it off with a torch and set the colors quickly. Example on a bowl
Has anyone ever used wood hardener? Minwax 41700 1 Pint High Performance Wood Hardener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPINKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pn9MxbEJVXSAD
just buy the miniwax wipe on polyurethane.
https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-40910000-Wipe-Finish-Clear/dp/B000VZJGPO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6EJ4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8hwjzb789RJCD
This book right here. Everything you need to know about finishing is in this.
https://www.amazon.com/Resin-Crystal-Gallon-Coating-TABLETOPS/dp/B00NLPCA5Y?keywords=Crystal+clear+epoxy+1+gallon&qid=1537575262&sr=8-2&ref=mp_s_a_1_2 this is one I'll be using
You could put some epoxy finish on it.
https://www.amazon.ca/Rust-Oleum-241352-Glossy-Finish-Preservative/dp/B007177NZU
It was This type of wood filler.It was Minwax Stain
Check out powdered Keda dyes as a comparable alternative for enormously cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Aniline-Color-Powder/dp/B00BAKWTMQ/
Parks
I've used this for an insertable custom flogger handle. Its glossier than the 2-ton and adds a honey amber tone to the wood.
https://www.amazon.com/EPOXY-CRYSTAL-Gallon-COATING-TABLETOPS/dp/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480726174&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=countertop+epoxy+east+coast+resins
I used this poly:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VZLF58/ref=asc_df_B000VZLF585149432/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B000VZLF58&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198071503086&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8167882762226370903&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011703&hvtargid=pla-349434744939
and this paint:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Olympic-Assure-Black-Flat-Latex-Interior-Paint-and-Primer-in-One-Actual-Net-Contents-128-fl-oz/4764166
The paint I used is paint+primer.
Seven coats of Semi-Gloss Arm-R-Seal.
https://www.amazon.com/Painter-CP3003-Anti-Shine-Matte-Varnish/dp/B005WH4C2S
What if you embedded the flowers in epoxy resin similar to this countertop
I don't think so, but here is a link to what I frequently use.
This kind!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You might check out General Finishes Waterbased Poly - Non-affiliated Amazon link.
There are others but this one gets good reviews. The only downside to WB poly is the lack of depth of color in the finished products over oil based. Make some samples before you finish your desktop.
It depends on the finish on the table now. If it is an oil, use Watco Butcher Block Oil and Finish. it will both protect it and rejuvenate the shine on it while keeping the antic look without adding any dark coloring to it.
https://www.amazon.ca/Watco-241758-Butcher-Block-Finish/dp/B000VITOT4
I would sand it down, dry it out thoroughly, like under a heat lamp, then using a poly varnish thinned down to water-like consistency, add coats to it until it no longer takes any more. In bad cases, use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-41700000-High-Performance-Hardener/dp/B000BPINKS/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?crid=314SVKR6R67V7&keywords=minwax+primer&qid=1555787793&s=gateway&sprefix=minwax+primer%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-3-fkmrnull
Pros tell me that seven coats of varnish is the absolute minimum.
If you want to "stain", look into keda dyes. They are cheap and you can mix the color to your liking. I've done a couple of burst finishes with them and it was no problem. Here is a telecaster album with the dye process:
https://imgur.com/a/BFkSe
Dye itself:
https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Aniline-Color-Powder/dp/B00BAKWTMQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519139347&sr=8-1&keywords=keda+dye
Unfinished should be fine but if you wanted to use something they make finishes for things that will contact food. Here's an example of one made for butcher blocks and salad bowls. I've never used it myself. http://www.amazon.com/Watco-241758-Butcher-Block-Finish/dp/B000VITOT4
I'm not 100% sure but if anyone is wondering...
This is the kind of product they used to cover the sprinkles:
http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS
It's not very easy to use though. After applying an even layer, air bubbles will appear and you need to burst them with a torch.
Fuck buying at lowes, you can get a gallon of epoxy on amazon for 48 bucks + shipping. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NLPCA5Y/
this is the dye i ordered. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BAKWTMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the directions were kinda crappy and confusing. so i ended up using the alcohol based part of the directions and it worked fine. Then i did a spray poly on it and buffed it to a shine.
Poly will. You can mess around with spar/long oil varnishes, or you can just do it right the first time and stop fucking around
To all the makers out there buying this "Turbo Glow" material from another supplier thus resulting in what I think is an inflated price. Now I could be wrong but all this stuff is, is a mixture of a glow powder
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K0DQXD4/ref=twister_B01K0DQTM4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
and some type of or something similar to a clear epoxy resin
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=AWNIMR5FR1N5J&psc=1)
placed into a block mold allowed to harden then cut into sections. The brittle nature of this material is probably dependent on how much powder is used. The more you use the brighter and more brittle it will be.
Now this is just my theory on "Turbo Glow" again I could be wrong. In any case I intend to use this method for future projects of mine, take it or leave it.