Reddit mentions: The best hunting equipment

We found 8,703 Reddit comments discussing the best hunting equipment. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 3,475 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

🎓 Reddit experts on hunting equipment

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where hunting equipment are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Hunting Equipment:

u/Arimil · 7 pointsr/CampingGear
  1. Tent: Eagles Peak II Two person tent - http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=50802926
    -This was generous gift from my SO's mom. It may not be the best tent out there, but at free it can't be beat.

  2. Sleeping Bag: Marmot Aspen Minimalist 40 - http://www.trailspace.com/gear/marmot/aspen-40-ultralight/
    -Got this for its small size and light weight. Future winter camping trips are a possibility, in which case I plan on snagging a wool blanket of sleeping bag liner.

  3. Sleeping Pad: RidgeRest Classic - http://www.amazon.com/Therm-A-Rest-6433-Parent-RidgeRest-Classic-Mattress/dp/B00HZ13OYG
    -Simple basic sleeping pad, I've been using these since scouts and have wanted for nothing more, especially because of its light weight.
    -In the event of winter camping, is this enough to insulate from the ground? If not, what could be added to my sleep system to keep me insulated from the ground?

  4. Cookware: Pot Pan stackable combo - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQZEYWE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
    -Lightweight and simple, these were cheap and seemed straight forward.
    -They stack with the majority of either piece's empty space facing each other, allowing for decently dry storage for matches etc. inside.
    -Comes with a tight fitting mesh ditty bag

  5. Small Camp Grill - Coghlan's Camp Grill - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPHA0S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
    -Another straight forward and cheap piece,
    -This is really an optional piece, I plan on bringing it along on trips with big groups or when cooking meat is in the cards.

  6. Plates x2: Coleman Enamel plates - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009PUSPI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
    -These are the camping gold standard in my book, been using them since scouts.

  7. Stuff Sacks x3: REI pack of 3 Ditty Sacks 2, 3, and 7 liter. -http://www.rei.com/product/795047/rei-ditty-sack-package-of-3
    -Came in a decently affordable combo pack, plan on using them for food/toiletries storage and bear bags.

  8. Knife: Morakniv Companion Straight Knife - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TNWD40?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
    -Love this little knife, cheap but durable and was a shaver straight out of the box.
    -Came with a super thick plastic sheath

    9)Hatchet: Estwing Hatchet - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TNWD40?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
    -Heard this was a classic, people say they've still got the one's their grandfather's used. It's heavy, but I'm happy with the tradeoff.
    -Got it sharpened well enough to cleanly slice through paper at the moment

  9. Axe Sharpener: Lansky Dual Grit Sharpener - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8FW0Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
    -Great sharpener, pretty much the go to field sharpener from what I've gathered.
    -Only took a couple minutes to learn how to use, the only hard part is consistently following the bevel through each stroke, but it gets easier.

  10. Camp Towels x2: Microfiber quick-drying towels - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8FW0Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
    -Very great, medium size towels with their own tote

  11. Collapsible Water Jug: REI 2.5 gallon collapsible water jug - http://www.rei.com/product/402099/reliance-fold-a-carrier-water-carrier-25-gal
    -Seems great, picked it up at REI physical store then read reviews and got spooked, we'll see though, a minority of the reviewers swear by it.
    -Just in case it sucks, any suggestions for a collapsible water container of equal size/price?

  12. Water Bags x2: 33 oz Bag style canteens - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010OLZ3E2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
    -These came free with my water filter, and they have many good reviews. If they do well, I may buy some extras.

  13. Wine Skin: 2L - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CN4RN42?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
    -More showing of my primitivist ass, and I thought I could take some weight off of my SO by carrying enough water for the two of us.

  14. Pillows x2: Field and Stream - http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=33581126
    -Got these a long time ago when I knew less, they are pretty bulky and my first item I want to replace

  15. Pack: Kelty Redwing 50L Black
    -SO's mom gifted this this Christmas, so amazing and thoughtful, one of the best gifts I've ever gotten and I love the color

  16. Shoes: Skechers Trail Runners - I found these at the thrift store for a stunning 12 bucks and they fit perfectly

  17. Lighting: Outlite Lantern -http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01178FLM0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
    -Pack of flashlights (might not bring all four) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V639BNC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

  18. Extras: Tarp as groundcloth, some extra stakes.

    Items not shown:
    -Always a tin or bag of Drum Tobacco and papers
    -Kindle, old generation one
    -Collapsible trowel
    -Paracord
    -Burlap shoulder bag for gathering kindling etc

    Items still wanted (suggestions greatly appreciated):
    -Knife for SO
    -Work gloves
    -Plastic flasks for booze
    -Belt pouch
    -Higher quality tarp
    -Knife Sharpener
    -Sleeping bag liner or wool blanket
    -Any food suggestions!
    -Rain cover for pack
    -Smell proof food bags

    I don't have much experience outside of scouts, so I'm very open to critique of my setup. I will warn that I am very much into primitivism, and camping for me is a gateway to a backcountry, esthetic lifestyle I one day I hope to live, so some of my gear choices may not always be the most efficient. Any advice from a primitivist or purist standpoint is doubly appreciated.

u/Maximum_Ordinate · 3 pointsr/Hunting

Buy yourself a decent bolt action .22 or a shotgun, a good 3-5" fixed blade knife, a blaze orange hat or vest, and a decent little first aid kit (don't forget a tourniquet).


Step 1: Take a hunters safety/education class.

Some states have classes exclusively for adults. This will give you some basic, but good info on gun/bow safety and state laws pertaining to hunting. In addition, they should have pamphlets that will outline the different hunting seasons, game animals, invasive species, and state/federal hunting areas.

These classes might also help you meet some more experienced folks who could bring you along or offer some valuable advice.


Step 2: Learn how to use your gear.

Your ability with your gear can mean the difference between success and failure on the hunt--and in some cases life and death (especially pertaining to your med kit).

Let's start with the rifle. I like bolt action .22's. You can get a very accurate gun and learn how to use it for very little money. Using a bolt action .22 with iron sights forces the shooter to learn the fundamentals of marksmanship, building a solid foundation for the future.

I like the Savage MkII and the Ruger American.

With either rifle I'd recommend adding a peep sight and a regular 2 point sling.
Both are accurate and inexpensive rifles that you can shoot day in and day out for years.

You should be able to find a range with at least 50 yards to sight in (aka zero) your rifle. If you need guidance here, there are plenty of online resources, however, you'd do better to ask an experienced shooter for a hand. Be sure to use the same ammo for zero and hunting.

For shotguns you can't beat the versatility of a Remington 870 or Mossberg 500. Get either gun in 12 or 20 gauge. The beauty of these two is that you are always a simple barrel change away from being able to shoot birdshot (birds small game) or slugs (everything else).

With a good .22 and a good shotgun, you should be able to hunt most wild game in North America. There are better calibers and rifles for specific hunting applications but those two will do it all.

What I don't recommend for hunting rifles/shotguns and why:

1 I don't like scopes (at first). Forcing yourself to learn on iron sights means you develop a firm foundation in the fundamentals. I remember wanting a scope for my .22 so bad, so my dad made me a deal. I had to kill 100 red squirrels or starlings and 10 groundhogs before he'd let me add a scope. It took me the better part of a summer to accomplish this but I walked away from that summer being able to put lead on just about anything within 150 yards of that little rifle.

2 I don't like autoloaders (at first). Simply because shooting a bolt gun means you have one, maybe two shots to get the job done. You learn to make ever shot count. Once you are proficient, go wild.

3 I don't like tactical/tacticool rifles for beginners or really hunting for that matter. They are usuallly auto loaders (see #2), heavier, and more expensive. You don't feel so bad taking your $230 Savage through brambles, tripping over roots and dropping it, or leaning it up against a rusty fence post. If you don't trust me, look at what the professional hunters use.

Extras: buy a quality, brass rod cleaning kit and some decent gun oil (or CLP) for deep cleans. Keep a [Bore Snake](.22 .223 .25 CAL Bore Snake Cleaner Kit Cord Rope Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JKSNVTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XRfGzbN7P8Z58) in an extra pocket for the times you get dirt or debris in the barrel.


Get yourself a good knife. I always have my pocket knife (a CRKT M21-02G) and a skinner when I'm hunting.

For a pocket knife use what suits you. For a skinner I really like knives like the Schrade Old Timer 158 for general skinning and this blade from Ontario Knife.

You also need a good way to keep your knives sharp. I've had a lot of luck with the. [Lansky System](Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_85fGzbBRJDH6K).


Last, please get yourself a decent med kit. Too many people have died in the woods due to a knife accident or gun accident that could have been easily treated.

You can easily make yourself a basic kit or buy one like [this](Ever Ready First Aid Meditac Tactical Trauma IFAK Kit with Trauma Pack Quickclot and Israeli Bandage in Molle Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAAMS2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iagGzb76NGQZJ) pre-made.

This kit has everything you need except for a tourniquet like [this](Tourniquet - (Black) Recon Medical Gen 3 Mil-Spec Kevlar Metal Windlass Aluminum Lightweight First Aid Tactical Swat Medic Pre-Hospital Life Saving Hemorrhage Control Registration Card (1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ETMVQOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fcgGzbSAMKAWS) and an Israeli Bandage like [this](Ever Ready Bandage Battle Dressing First Aid Compression Bandage, 6 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DPVERM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1cgGzb9C9H5WP).

You can learn to use all this stuff over the course of an hour via YouTube. You would do better to find a nurse, paramedic, or Navy Corpsman to give you a crash course in the use of the contents of your IFAK. If you can find a Corpsman, they are probably the best for this kind of thing. Lots of good tips and tricks for field use...plus you can pay them in beer.

Don't forget to add extras like any medication you might need, chapstick, Bayer aspirin (good for headaches and heart attacks), a little tube of antibacterial ointment, and a couple fabric bandages.

If you won't carry this on your person, keep it in your vehicle.

For good practice I like squirrel and rabbit hunting. Makes you consider a lot about safety, a lot about taking only the good shots, plus they are easy to clean and good to eat.


Last learn how to use what you kill.

If you are hunting varmits, that is one thing. I shoot invasive species (when legal), and varmits that are causing a nuisance and that is reason enough for me.

If you are hunting anything else for exclusively for sport, please use it. You can use some of the books referenced earlier to learn about skinning and field dressing. I like to watch shows like Meat Eater, to learn better ways to use the meat I've harvested. Once you get into cooking game meat, you will wonder why you ever went to the store for meat.

Just don't forget that hunting is about stewardship and learning. It's a lifelong pursuit that is very rewarding.

Always be safe, always be ethical, always be responsible, always have fun.

Edit: If you ever find yourself in south central or southwest Michigan, I can help you with anything I've outlined above. I'm a lifelong hunter, a lifelong shooter, a small arms instructor in the military, a certified combat lifesaver, and a decent game cook.

u/TOUCHER_OF_SHEEP · 3 pointsr/EDC

It's definitely enough for a nice knife, though you might want to go a bit higher for a great knife. The KaBar BK2 is actually designed with things like batoning (hammering the knife through wood as a kind of faux hatchet using another piece of wood against the blade of the knife as the hammer itself) or chopping. It's a bit over $60, currently available for $69 to be precise, but as long as you don't flat out abuse it (prying heavy things, for example) it'll serve you well and quite possibly for the rest of your natural life.

At a lower price, you can get the Condor Bushlore, which at $35 is a perfectly valid choice that will serve you well indeed.

For an even lower price yet, the Mora Heavy Companion is from one of those few cheaper knife companies that does incredible work. I wouldn't baton with it, honestly, but even if you did it'd probably hold up just fine.

At a more expensive range, the Ontario Rat-5 is an amazing bushcraft knife. The Fallkniven Pilot Survival Knife is also an amazing knife. The Benchmade Bone Collector is spectacular knife made in D2 tool steel, one of the better steels available at that price. Another amazing knife is the Spyderco Bushcraft made in O1 tool steel. Finally, the Benchmade 162 is a pretty amazing knife.

One thing you'll notice about all of these knives with the exception of the Pilot Survival knife and the BM 162 is that they're all carbon steel knives. Carbon steel is a lot tougher than stainless (with a few very, very rare exceptions I'd never trust a long knife to be stainless steel) with the trade off of being a lot more of a hassle to take care of, since it needs to be regularly cleaned and oiled.

If you want a fire starter, carry a magnesium fire starter. With the carbon steel knives, you can probably strike it against the back of the blade to create the sparks you'll want and if not (like with some of the coated ones) you'll be carrying the striker anyway.

For sharpening, you'll want to get a decent sharpening setup and start stropping. A couple of easy sharpening systems would be the superior Spyderco Sharpermaker (usually available on Amazon around the $50 mark) or the Lansky Sharpening system which while cheaper isn't as good. You could take the time to learn how to free hand it, but most casual users don't care that much because it takes a long time to get proficient at freehand sharpening. Stropping is running the blade against something like smooth leather (usually smooth leather, actually) to remove burrs along the blade of a knife made by use and sharpening and the restore a blade to a better edge without removing metal. Stropping allows for a level of sharpness unachievable by sharpening alone and extends a knife's lifetime by allowing sharpness to be achieved for longer without removing metal from the blade. To learn how to strop, watch videos on YouTube or check out guides from the sidebar of /r/knives.

Finally, if you want a whistle, just carry a whistle. If you want a mirror for signaling, carry a small signaling mirror or mirror polish the knife you buy (a process where you sand the blade with increasing grit level sandpaper until it shines like the sun and you can see yourself in the blade).

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

u/broken42 · 8 pointsr/airsoft

First things first, see if there are any fields nearby that have rentals. Go out and play with a rental before dropping $500, last thing you'd want to is spend that much money on a loadout only to find you don't like playing airsoft.

Now that being said, $500 is actually a very reasonable starting budget. I'm already going to assume that you have a good pair of boots, if you don't then you def are going to want to add that as something to purchase. So I have a basic loadout, it's going to be 3 different stores because airsoft retailers are an awful place to buy lipo batteries. A lot of these items I've either owned or know people personally who do.

So let's start off with the basics.

  • The G&G CM16 SRXL - It's a step up from their basic Combat Machine lineup, but still sub $250. It has a basic MOSFET from the factory that can be programmed to shoot either full auto or 3 round burst when set to auto. One negative about the MOSFET is I've heard reports of it burning out on 11.1v lipos, so stick to 7.4v ones for now. It is going to shoot just below 400, which makes it perfect for field play. It is a keymod rail, but the one downside is it's "airsoft spec" keymod so keep that in mind when buying keymod accessories. Overall it's a great gun for the price and very much a good starting gun.

  • ALTERNATIVE ICS PAR MK3 - This gun is on sale right now, down from $340 to $214, so if you can get it while it's this cheap then it's a steal. ICS guns are tanks and they are very easy to work on down the line due to their split gearbox design. My first gun was an ICS CXP-16 and it is still running for the dude who bought it from me to this very day. You may need to drop a new spring in, but again due to the split gearbox that's super easy.

  • G&P High RPS midcaps - Great mags for a great price. The will handle damn near any ammo and any rounds per second you can throw at it. They are a bit tight in some guns, you might have to give your mag a bit of a love tap to get it to lock in, but at the same time that means there is very little mag wobble. 5 mags is more than enough for your basic open play. If you're wanting to go to longer events down the road, you can just buy another set of 5 and you're golden.

  • G&P CompM4 Replica - I use this red dot on my shorter M4. It's got a great build quality, comes with a kill flash to keep your scope protected, and takes AA batteries. That last bit about taking AA batteries is my favorite part, I am awful about forgetting to turn off my red dot and it's nice to know that it takes a very common battery.

  • LBX Lock and Load Chest Rig in Project Honor - The LBX Lock and Load chest rig is one of the most underrated chest rigs on the market. It can hold damn near anything you'd need for a day of playing. It's very easy to take off and put on thanks to the large zipper up front. It has plenty of padding in all the right places to keep you comfortable throughout the day. It's overall just a great value. The Project Honor camo one being only $25 is an absolute steal, I personally picked one of these up when I saw that price and it's well worth it. It may not be the prettiest camo out there, but you can't even come close to that quality in the $25 price range.

  • Krytac .25g BBs 4000 count - Great BBs, never had any issues with them feeding. It's one of the 4 brands of BBs I will use in my rifles.

  • 6mmProShop 500 round speedloader - A nice, basic speedloader. Better than the smaller pistol mag sized ones since you don't have to fill it up after every freaking magazine. I had one of these for a while, only reason I don't still use it is because someone stole it at an open play. A step up would be the Odin Sidewinder but that puts your budget over $500.

    All of this with the Free3Day coupon code puts you at $410.

    Now we get to protection gear (and a charger)

  • Pyramex I-Force Dual Pane Goggles - Great pair of budget priced goggles. I personally use these on longer games or days when I just don't feel like running my larger goggles. For anyone that doubts the quality of these Valken rebrandes them for their Zulu goggles and charges almost twice as much.

  • OneTigris mesh lower facemask - Better than the full mesh ones because the cloth on the sides conforms to your face better. There is still plenty of padding on the cloth sides to protect your face and it gives you a better cheek weld on the rifle. Only complaint I have is they do tend to get a little hot if it is very hot outside, but that's the tradeoff for protection.

  • Tenergy lipo charger - Nice, basic lipo charger. You'll need this for the batteries I'm linking later. I use this charger personally, haven't had any issues with it yet.

    If you have Amazon Prime, that put's this portion to a total of $53. Overall we're at $463.

    Now for the batteries. I always suggest HobbyKing for purchasing lipos, they have by far the best prices on lipos. These 1200 mAh 2s nunchuck lipos should work great for your gun. Lipos are going to give you a better trigger response than NiMH batteries. I'd order two of these, which are about $13 total. Shipping will cost you about $9.

    Overall total: $485
u/freeshavocadew · 1 pointr/knives

5 knives

Above is a link to 5 folding knives that may or may not fit what you're looking for and 4 are well within your price range of under $120. One is slightly above at 139.00 on Amazon, but the Chrome extension called Honey is currently allowing a $10 discount. All are made by Kershaw/ZT.

  1. The ZT 0350 is the top knife with the curvy ergonomics to it. It's probably the most basic ZT folder and is currently the only ZT knife I own. It is good for larger hands, it's very sturdy (and heavy) and technically more than $120 but only barely.

  2. The Kershaw Fatback is next to it and has a more triangular appearance. Relatively newer offering from Kershaw, I think, but is certainly proving to be popular. It's as long when closed as the ZT 0350 but is thicker from one scale to the other on the handle AND is lighter. The actual specs for this and all the knives mentioned can be found by Googling them. This knife is currently under $25.

  3. The Kershaw Skyline is probably the most well known knife, I wouldn't be surprised is this has its own lore here on r/knives. It's popular for a reason being lightweight, and well tested as an older, mainstay model from Kershaw. As you can see, mine is showing wear and scratches compared to the other knives! Amazon is currently listing the basic version of this knife for $46.

  4. The next one is the Kershaw OD-1 which is DISCONTINUED. I didn't know this when I took a photo of it for you and started this list. This means the price is higher than you'd pay normally and isn't really available on Amazon or in stores. You can find it on the link provided (I think) which is to one Stop Knife Shop, you can also try Ebay or Bladeforums to find a used one. The link provided appears to be offering this knife for $53, but I don't know what condition that's in. The one I bought on Amazon back in like 2013 or whatever was ~$30-$35. I actually have two of them, but I'm not sure where the other came from. They are cool knives, fun to play with, but not tacticool.

  5. The last one pictured is the Kershaw Cryo and is currently available on Amazon for ~$19. It is the smallest of the knives shown, smaller than the Fatback with the triangular handle by what looks like 2 inches when open. This would be a great beater knife, something that would be a fine flipper and used briefly but would not be comfortable for extended use, especially in large hands. If memory serves, there's two different Cryo models with 2 different sizes, but I have only the one you see. Could be the smaller of the two models.

    NOT PICTURED but I do also have the Kershaw Blur which Amazon is listing at ~$35 currently which is HIGHLY recommended even though it doesn't have a flipper. It's spring assisted opening and a very comfortable grip for larger hands. That price is so good, they're normally $55-$60 that I'm grabbing one of them again as an extra.

    I could list like 4-5 more Kershaw knives but my comment is too long already. If you would prefer more variety in recommendation, Spyderco has some solid options but if you want to go BALLS DEEP into tacticool, one of my most valued knives because it was bought for me as a gift was the Cold Steel AK-47. This knife is quite a bit larger than the ZT shown but is nearly the same price at ~$125-130 on Amazon. You might be able to find it cheaper on Ebay. Be careful though, there is the regular and mini version!
u/king_human · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

Hi! And welcome!

I like the Gayle Bradley 2 in M4, and the BM Valet in M390, but they are both very expensive to start out with. The Shuffle II is kind of crappy - I'd definitely pass on that one. I have no experience with
the Bartender Defeder, but even the XL version looks too small, as is the Rodie. The Delica and Leek are great knives, and would likely be solid options (their ergonomics are better than their handle lengths suggest, especially the Delica). The CRKT M16 is ok, but it's not great (in my opinion). I've never handled CRKT's Endorser, but it looks like a solid choice.

My best suggestion is a RAT 1 in D2. It's 40 bucks and you get a very well-made knife in D2 (semi stain resistant and will hold an edge for a good long time). The AUS-8 version is good, too, but if you're cutting boxes, the D2 option will stay sharp way longer.

As for some other options, here are some good ones from CRKT:

Foresight - It's big and comfy in-hand, but it's expensive for the materials used (aluminum and AUS-8)

Shenanigan - lighter and cheaper than the Foresight, but with the same blade material (AUS-8)

Outrage - aluminum handle and 8Cr13MoV steel (similar to AUS-8, id est, reasonably stainless, decent toughness, ok-ish edge retention), ball bearing pivot (nice and smooth!)

Ripple - aluminum handle, 8Cr13MoV blade, ball bearing pivot

With these suggestions, it may seem like I'm a shill for CRKT, but I'm not. I'm just a fan of Ken Onion's designs and ergonomics. I also like:

Spyderco Endura - very good stainless steel in a lightweight package, with plenty of handle real estate

Byrd Cara Cara 2 - Spyderco's value brand (basically a cheap Endura with 8Cr13MoV steel instead of the excellent blade steel VG-10)

Spyderco Resilience - big and comfy (G-10 scales with 8Cr13Mov steel), and my daily carry at work

Spyderco Manix 2 - light and medium sized (they also make an XL version), with BD-1 (kinda similar to AUS-8, kinda)

Cold Steel Recon 1 Spear Point - a big knife with lots of grippy G-10 handle space. The CTS XHP steel is the bee's knees, and the Recon 1 is an excellent value, but it may be too expensive as a starting point.

Also, I'm sure some other folks will chime in, too. The guys & gals of /r/knifeclub are pretty knowledgeable and helpful.

Again, my number 1 suggestion is the RAT 1 in D2. It'll be hard to beat interms of construction, ergonomics, and utility.

Happy hunting!

u/Odysimus · 3 pointsr/searchandrescue

Traditional SAR, the teams you will find around the country operate in a whole different world than the military. For the most part you can sort of look to volunteer firefighters as an analogy, even then they tend to be more regimented than SAR. There are some SAR teams out there that have more of a military structure to them, but most of what you will find will feel more like SAR clubs (think chess clubs, hiking clubs, etc). My unit meets once a month, we have a business meeting with the whole review last month's minutes, reports on events since the last meeting, old business, new business, etc. After that we conduct a classroom training session on topics like Lost Person Behavior, Medical Techniques, Navigation, etc. We also conduct regular field trainings to bring it all together. We don't have ranks, we have a list of skillsets and we are each typed according to our ability in each skill. Our unit and all the units I know don't work with weapons, sure we carry knives, but the biggest blade most of us work with is one of these, not some giant thing that rambo would carry, no machetes, no hatchets. If there is a situation where SAR skills are needed for say a fugitive, we stay home. We have done evidence searches for things criminals have tossed into the woods, but they were already in jail.

SAR in the military is their own thing and while we can and do work together on missions they are a unit that stays a unit. When we ask for military assets we indicate what needs to be done and they tell us what they are sending and what it will do. If I show up on a mission with 5 other people from my unit we might be on a team together or I might get put in with members of a different unit.

When it comes to the actual searching it is simply a lot of covering ground. We walk, and we walk, and we walk. 99% of the time we get nothing, there are only so many clues out there. There is one really awesome clue (the person or thing you were out to look for) and tons of acreage to cover. We often start from a last known point and try to move that further along in time. An example we were out looking for a mushroom hunter, when I showed up they new where he started into the woods, we then found a clearly picked mushroom and a couple of boot prints. That advanced the last known point a few hundred feet and gave us a second breadcrumb to work with. It takes a certain type of person to do that effectively. I have seen plenty of people bow out because they had been on maybe a dozen searches over several years and never found a thing. One of our radio operators has been on 8 missions, each ended in a recovery. My hope when I got in was to find a clue at some point, and Oh Boy my first time out I got the find, I found the 24yro woman who had hanged herself. We don't have an obligation to respond to one call or another, but you also don't get to decide who gets lost and when. You also have to get along real well with the others on your team. I've been on all sorts of teams and there are people that I know I don't want to go out with, and certain combinations of people that I won't go out with.

With every one of your responses I feel more and more that SAR wouldn't be a good fit for you now. Most units welcome visitors, I would say that you might consider finding one of the local unit's meetings and checking it out. Attend a few meetings before even considering applying, and talk to the people there and be honest about what you are looking for. Once you get started into it there is a substantial investment in time, energy, gear, and training on the part of you and your team. It isn't worth it to go through a bunch of training and getting geared up to not be a productive member of a team (remember finding nothing is something). I'm not sure what exactly you are looking for, but I don't think SAR is it. There is always a "who knows?" aspect and if you spend some time around a unit you may find that it is a good fit, or that your outlook might change. Our mountain rescue unit has people "hang out" around them for several months before offering them an application, in their world they have to trust their lives to their team. While the regular old SAR doesn't require the same standard it is very easy for someone (as good at it as they may be) to be more of a distraction than a help.

TL;DR
I don't think SAR is going to get you what you want. If you do feel like continuing down this path talk to the people in the unit(s) in your area, be honest, and don't take it personally if they tell you "no".

u/jsamhead · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

I'd actually start a little lower if I were you, then work your way up. I started with a Spyderco PM2 ($125ish) and then actually went down to some more budget friendly knives. You can get some TREMENDOUS value out of a few budget blades available right now. Here's a few that I HIGHLY recommend.

Top Pick: Sanrenmu Land 910+ or 9103. I'd choose the 910+ because it's got nice grippy scales and is easier to open/close than the 9103.

Compact, Lightweight, and Classy: Kershaw Atmos. Fantastic action, well known designer, nice and compact.

Workhorse: Spyderco Tenacious. This thing is built to cut. Nice and thin blade stock with a full flat grind, cuts like nothing else. Carries really well too.

Those are three of the best started blades on the market IMO. There's a lot more value in these than in some of the other commonly recommended blades like the Ontario Rats. If you do want to spend your full $100 budget, I'd just pick up all three of these. That way you can figure out exactly what you like before committing to one expensive knife purchase. Plus, once you do, you can hold onto the budget blades for backup knives or sell them over on r/knife_swap.

I hope you find the right knife for you. Good luck!

u/camobit · 3 pointsr/Pennsylvania

first and foremost, find a hunter safety class and take it. there is an online option now but I really recommend going to an in-person class. I did this when I was 11 or 12 and remember some very experienced old timey hunters explaining everything. we even got hands-on experience with some old 22's and got to shoot them at a range.

they will cover most of your questions, and will go over gun safety and how to hunt safely (identifying your target, whats behind your target, etc). They should also cover the basics of field dressing (removing the organs out in the field).

If you want to hunt deer you're going to want a rifle of at very minimum .243 caliber (preferably higher, i hunt with .30-06). Hunting rifles as of this moment cannot be semi-automatic although there is a real possibility this will be changed by next hunting season. (Even so the most common AR-15 which is .223 caliber is too small for hunting deer.) A .270 is a common whitetail caliber, big enough to take down a deer but not going to kick as hard as .30-06 or .308.

When you buy your hunting license, it comes with one tag to harvest an antlered deer. The rules of what makes a deer count as "antlered" vary from region to region but for most of PA it requires at least 3 points on one side. The paperwork you receive will also have a form you must mail in to your county treasurer to apply for a doe tag. The doe permits are limited and the earlier you apply the better your chances are. A doe tag is only good for the zone you applied in.

If you want to hunt rabbits and birds such as pheasants or turkey you'll want a shotgun. Most people would hunt with a 12 gauge but if you've got a smaller frame you might want a smaller gun (16 or 20 gauge). Turkey requires a tag similar to a buck, which are included in your regular hunting license.

Ducks require a special stamp you can buy when you purchase your license, and there are rules about the metal in the shot shells when you hunt waterfowl (it can't contain lead).

if you're interested in squirrel hunting you can use a shotgun, but the more challenging way to do it is with a 22 rifle. This is a very small and inexpensive bullet.

If you've never handled a gun you're going to be nervous carrying it around with a shell in the chamber. The best thing you can do is take it a range (such as these) and go through a few boxes of shells practicing. A State Game Lands range is free to use as long as you have a hunting license. The one by me usually has a game commission officer there who would be happy to answer questions. Just practice, learn where your safety is, be aware of where the muzzle is pointed, and keep your finger out of the trigger guard. Also protect your hearing! You will need hearing and eye protection at the range!

you need to wear orange on your head and chest/back for most seasons in PA, the exception being some archery/muzzleloader and turkey hunting. Just get a hat and vest and you'll be fine.

Other gear: knife (I prefer a small fixed blade knife to a folder for cleaning deer; less places to get hair and gunk stuck), lighter, maps, emergency whistle, emergency blanket, drag rope (to get the deer out of the woods), rubber gloves (so you aren't a mess after cleaning a deer), and I bring a spare phone battery.

Like any other adventure in the wild make sure people know where you're going and when you should be home.

u/chuckthetruk · 7 pointsr/knives

As you may or may not have recognized, this is the Condor Bushlore. Its blade is .125” thick made from 1075 carbon steel. The handle scales are walnut and the pins are brass (I think). The sheath is leather with stainless pins. These pictures are what it looks like after a weekend of extremely hard use in very damp conditions—I’ll talk more about this later. I took the pictures right after I cleaned it back up, and re-sharpened it.

I have been collecting knives for a while, and have quite a few, but did not own EVEN ONE fixed blade. I had a camping trip in the Finger Lakes region of NY, so I decided to pony up a whopping $31 and order one off amazon. When it arrived, the overwhelmingly positive reviews for the sheath were confirmed (it feels very high quality) as were the so-so reviews for the fit and finish of the knife itself. If you are looking for a fixed blade knife that is great to look at and fun to fondle, this might not be the knife for you. There is noticeable staining on the uneven handle scales, the pins and lanyard holes have grind marks on them (but are smooth to the touch), the grind is not a true Scandi (the blade had a secondary bevel when I received it, but it’s not a big deal, because I re-profiled it anyway), and the primary grind is actually uneven (this was brought out when I re-profiled it, one of the pictures shows this), and it came incredibly dull (hence the re-profiling).

So, how did it perform in the field? Very well! On two consecutive nights, in very damp conditions, it batoned through logs almost as thick as the blade is long, split about 9 bundles worth of wood (no-one had a hatchet) and performed other, less strenuous tasks like making wood shavings for kindling, carving tent stakes, and opening food packages etc. It was very comfortable to use, and held a good working edge for all of this. Now because it is carbon steel it did develop some significant surface rust, but that cleaned up very easily in just a few minutes.

In closing, this is a great camp knife for an incredible value. If you can get past the cosmetic imperfections, it’s an awesome little knife.

Let me know if you guys have any questions!

u/greath · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Lol, alright for example:

  • Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.

  • Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.

  • Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.

  • Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.

  • Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.

  • Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.

  • Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.

  • Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.

  • Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.

  • Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.

    There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...
u/freedoomed · 1 pointr/knives

OK, i looked into your sharpener a little more and it is not as bad as i thought. the way yours works is it has a spinning diamond coated wheel and the plastic housing guides the knife at the correct angle against the diamond wheel. This style of sharpener won't destroy your edge like a carbide sharpener will. However diamond is very aggressive as an abrasive material. This means that you are probably taking off way too much material from the edge of your knife than you need to. This means you are shortening the life of your knives. This sharpener also only has two stages of sharpening which means you are not getting much of a polish on your knife edges. The higher the polish the more of a slice you are getting as opposed to a rip. This is both good and bad. cutting some materials requires a more 'toothy' edge to the knife but if you are slicing meat you don't want a toothy edge.

In short what you have is adequate for the average kitchen. if you want better results you will need to upgrade to a better sharpener.

The work sharp is basically a miniature belt sander. by having replaceable belts you have a sharpener that basically has an unlimited life, those diamond wheels will eventually wear down. by having replaceable belts you are able to change the abrasiveness of the belt. when sharpening a knife you want to move to progressively finer grits. this grit progression will ensure that you are not spending longer than you need to on finer grits and it will get you a highly polished blade edge. the work sharp belts are flexible which means you will also get what is called a convex edge. so instead of being a perfect V the V will be bowed out slightly. this provides a much stronger edge due to the shape. the wheels in the chef's choice will grind to a concave edge or what is known as a hollow grind. a hollow grind provides a much thinner edge. thinner edges tend to be sharper but they also tend to chip and not hold their edge as well as a convex edge.

amazon has the lansky sharpening system for $36 http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406820039&sr=8-1&keywords=lansky+sharpeners

the lansky system will provide you with similar results to the work sharp in terms of edge polish and sharpness but it will give you the standard V edge. these clamp style sharpeners are very popular because they work really well. with a clamp style sharpener you will spend much more time on a single knife than with the work sharp.

u/coldfrontin · 5 pointsr/EDC

This is the stuff I have on me most of the time. I’m a grad student and as you can see, I’ve been lurking here for quite a while. I’m basically an /r/EDC stereotype at this point.

  • Saddleback wallet
  • bullet space pen
  • Nitecore p12 flashlight (winter . . . short days)
  • Ruger SR9c (winter)
  • Sig p938 (summer)
  • Spyderco delica (summer)
  • Benchmade 950-1 rift (winter)
  • carmex
  • phone
  • keys
  • N82 IWB holsters

    *Thoughts: I used to carry a FourSevens QT2A (I think?) and it fit in the pocket much better but was obviously much dimmer than the p12. I think i'll go back to a smaller flashlight next winter. I've also carried a Benchmade 707, 275, and several 556 styles. Of all of them I liked the 707 the best but I tend to give away my knives to anyone that takes interest and the 707's price had gone way up when I went to buy another one.

    The p938 is, of course, much easier to carry than the SR9c but I can't hit shit beyond 10 feet away and it only holds 6 rounds. Luckily the odds of me needing to hit someone more than 4 feet away are effectively zero. I kind of regret buying the Sig but it'll do for another summer or two. I highly recommend N82 holsters because they are so damn comfortable and secure compared to most others I've tried. The Saddleback ID wallet is amazing if you never need to carry cash, and I've not found a better pen for my pocket than the Fisher space pen. I also like to buy the space pens in bulk so I can give them away to people who take interest.
u/toxiclimeade · 1 pointr/preppers

If you have some really dull edges that havent been sharpened in a long time, pretty much any coarse stone will do, harbor freight has some well priced diamond stones that work well. As far as maintaining edges go, you're gonna want something finer, the bottom of a cermic mug can work well with practice.


As far as stuff you can buy goes, here's some links

worksharp field sharpener: for if you just want to buy one simple tool that can do everything

knock off Spyderco sharp maker: for maintaining undamaged edges, very easy to use, great compliment to a coarse stone for edge repair

Diamond bench stone: these are wonderful for repairing edges, but they remove a ton of metal so they're really useful for reprofiling and repairing, not so much for keeping a kinda sharp edge sharp

Sharpening can be a lot of fun, and there's a million ways to do it. Find some YouTube tutorials (virtuovice is someone I definitely recommend, sweet old Japanese deer Hunter with an enormous wealth of knowledge on water stones). Knowing what you're doing with sandpaper is way better than buying a $80 knife sharpener you don't know how to use well, or don't feel like setting up and putting together.

u/AManAPlanACanalErie · 2 pointsr/chefknives

Yeah, in that case, one good chef's knife is the way to go.

At the sub $100 price range, here are my standard recommendations:

  • Victorinox Chef's Knife. This is a western style chef's knife, probably what you would imagine in your head if you said chef's knife. The blade geometry is great. Its a very easy knife to care for - its 100% synthetic handle doesn't mind getting soaked and the steel is very stain resistant. The steel is pretty soft, so its easy to sharpen to a serviceable edge. The down side - its steel is pretty soft, so you will need to sharpen it more often to get good performance out of it.

  • Tojiro White #2 series These are Japanese style knives (and made in Japan). They are entry level for hand forged knives. The fit and finish isn't the best (not terrible) but this is to kitchen knives what a Remington 870 is to shotguns or a 10 year old F150 is to trucks. Look at the Santoku or Gyuto style blades. Upside - I believe its hand forged, so warm fuzzies on that if it applies to you. Hard steel takes a better edge than the victorinox, and will need sharpened less often. Downside - You need to commit to caring for this knife. Its not difficult to do, but neither the handle nor the blade like water. The handle is wood, it will warp, swell, and rot if you leave it soaking wet. The blade is not stainless steel. This means you must wash and dry it right after use, or else it will rust. But its pretty easy to do. Once you are done with your cutting, walk to the sink, give it a quick rub with a soapy rag, dry it on a towel and you are done.

    Then, spend the rest of your budget on sharpening stones. No matter what knife you get, you need to sharpen it to keep it functional. This is a reasonable system if you don't feel like you want to learn how to free-hand sharpen. This is a reasonable stone to get if you do Youtube will be more than happy to show you how to use either one.
u/Youre_kind_of_a_dick · 1 pointr/iamverybadass

Lol, do you mean S&W? Been in the same boat myself, and those are decent knives. Dig the bigger handles, definitely more ergonomic if you have bigger hands. Higher grades of steel help, but if it's a daily, things are going to wear down regardless. Got a cheap Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener a while back that does a pretty good job of sharpening the tips when using the ceramic rod. Saw it suggested on a video for sharpening recurve blades, and it's been pretty slick. Otherwise, since my current main is more of a straight blade, have just been using a sharpening stone when rarely needed)

Been using this as my every day carry for a while now. Not as rugged, and handle could be a tad bigger, but it can get razor sharp and stay that way, doesn't corrode quickly, and once dull, sharpens super easily (Sandvik 14C28N steel, great for light to moderate usage without a ton of coarse cutting).

If I know I'm going to be cutting more abrasive things like rope, this is my backup. S30V steel doesn't hold a razor sharp edge as long (14C28N is designed to have maximized sharpness) but it's effective cutting edge lasts forever (less wear than 14C28N for abrasive cuts, but also a bit tougher to sharpen).

P.S. I promise I'm not a Kershaw rep, just found two that I've actually stuck with for a long time!

u/DudeManFoo · 1 pointr/Cooking

I have a $5 pairing knife that takes an edge well but looses it fast. I have a $25 stamped wusthof that takes an edge well and keeps it pretty good. I just bought my little brothers (2 of them) Misen chefs knives (a kickstarter thing) and they are pretty dang nice.

 

I can sharpen an axe to where I can shave with it by hand. Showing off is all that is good for. I have used water stones, diamond, the top of a car window, and even a plain ole rock. But once a month or so, I sharpen them with on this.

 

But every day, I hone them with one of these I bought at goodwill.

 

My advice to anyone is learn to use and sharpen the tool before geeking out on expensive stuff. Knowledge and practice will bring you a lot more satisfaction. I would rather hear a great guitarist on a crap guitar than a crap guitarist on a great guitar.

u/JerkJenkins · 1 pointr/Survival

It depends on what you need. I enjoy Schrade knives, and some good options are:

  • Schf9. More if a yard tool than a knife. If you need to lug around 1+ pounds of quarter inch steel to make the wilderness your bitch, choose this. I briefly owned one of these before I came to my senses and returned it because it was too much ###KNIFE### for me. Large and heavy.
  • Schf36. It's compared favorably to a Becker BK2, but it's significantly cheaper. Good balance between size and weight. Overall a solid survival and Bushcraft knife. The Schf36D comes with better handle scales.
  • Schf42. Hailed as an excellent camp knife and a respectable Bushcraft knife. Lighter (and presumably a bit less beat-the-fuck-out-of-it-able) than the Schf36, but still a nice option.
  • Schf30. My knife. It's a 5 inch blade with a super comfortable grip, and its weight is a bit over a third of a pound. Good option for a smaller, lightweight survival/Bushcraft knife. Not good if your hands are dummy thicc, as the handle is smallish.

    Only thing to look out for: Schrade sheaths aren't super good. They work, but they're not as nice as premium brands.
u/Prospero424 · 4 pointsr/houston

If you're sharpening a fine, expensive blade, I can't stress enough that you should do it yourself. I used to send my knives out for sharpening with a handful of services, some of which were expensive and had excellent reputations. Sometimes they would come back great, sometimes they would come back absolutely BUTCHERED. One time it looked like they had sharpened it on the machine they used for lawn mower blades.

Anyway, there's no substitute for a good, multi-stone sharpening system. If you've got a lot of commodity blades to go through (like if you run a restaurant kitchen), by all means use a service or use a motorized sharpener like the Work Sharp (I own one and use it regularly).

But if you want the finest edge you can get and you want to really take care of a nice, expensive chef's knife; sharpening in a way that won't mar the appearance or take off too much metal each time (like the Work Sharp is known to do), a multi-stone kit is the way to go.

I've always used the Lanksy kits and absolutely love them. Here's an excellent general-purpose kit: http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4

And don't worry, it's super easy to get the hang of. The guide included will take care of the angle for you, which is the hardest part. And there are short videos out there that detail the process, if you need them.

u/Rocket_Puppy · 2 pointsr/EDC

What do you use the Skeletool most for?

If you use the knife on it constantly and daily, then yeah, get a good knife. If the stuff that you do cut makes you nervous with the Skeletool then definitely get a dedicated knife.

If you use the bit driver or pliers on the Skeletool the most then you probably don't need to carry a dedicated knife.

Give the Sage 5 a good look as well if you are considering the Para3. I'd also strongly recommend finding a Spyderco/Benchmade/Zero Tolerance dealer and fondling a bunch of knives before making a decision on which knife to buy.

If you have never carried a dedicated knife before it would be a good idea to buy a cheaper knife or two before spending $100+ on a knife.

Could try something like the Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara 2:
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Cara2-Lightweight-black-PlainEdge/dp/B0049AYJP4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1499523866&sr=1-1&keywords=Byrd+Cara+Cara2

The Ontario Rat I/II
https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knife-Sp-Black-Folding-7Inches/dp/B00BBPAOCW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523684&sr=8-2&keywords=ontario+rat+2

https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523956&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ontario+rat+1&psc=1

Kershaw Cryo
https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1555TI-SpeedSafe-Folding-Knife/dp/B0074FI28Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523664&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+cryo

CRKT Squid
https://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Knife-Tool-Folding/dp/B00TFY39EQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499524020&sr=1-1&keywords=crkt+squid

Try some under $30 knives, pick one that looks like something you would like to carry, and pick something that is dang near the polar opposite. It will let you know what you like in a knife much cheaper. Differences in blade size, blade shape, handle shape and how they are used might change your opinion on what you think you need in a knife after using a dedicated knife for awhile. After that you can make a truly informed decision on a high-end knife.

u/Rauldisco · 2 pointsr/knives

When cleaning a knife, don't use abrasives that will scratch the surface. Use water and soap and a towel, dry it completely with a dry towel, than use a good lubricant (WD40 is not recommended) to completely lubricate all of the moving parts of the knife. Be careful not to use too much lubricant or gunk will build up. Put some lubricant or oil on the blade to protect it from rust.
Next, you will need to know how to sharpen. Most of the people around here use either the Lansky Sharpening System, the Spyderco Sharpmaker, or freehand sharpening stones.
I use a set of free hand sharpening stones and a leather strop with a polishing compound to polish the edge. This is the edge of a knife I just sharpened today http://i.imgur.com/rU9xiiB.jpg
As you can see, the edge is a mirror and is razor sharp. I taught myself how to sharpen and it is kind of hard to explain it in words because each of those systems for sharpening above use different methods of sharpening. Because you seem to be a beginner, I would recommend buying the Lansky System http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000B8IEA4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421722347&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51w1Ufl-%2BUL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40 because it is less likely to mess up your edge than if you use free hand stones. Also, if you buy the Lansky, buy the stand for it as well.
After sharpening, oil the edge once again to protect it from rusting.
Remember to always keep as much moisture and liquid off the knife to prevent corrosion and always clean it with soap and water if it gets dirty.
Also, if you are interested in a leatherman, I recommend the Charge http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0031Q8N40/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421722507&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41K-6jvKBjL&ref=plSrch because even though it is pricey it is known as one of their best models.
I hope this all helps you!
EDIT: I also forgot to tell you not to use a knife outside of its intended purpose. It sounds like you tried prying with your previous knife, which ended up bending its tip. Never pry with a knife, next time it may break. Don't cut metal wire with a blade, use wire cutters. Don't use the edge a a screwdriver, that cause damage too. Remember to always use the correct tool for the job, which is beneficial for you because the leatherman will have many small tools.

u/SJToIA · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

You have a lot of good choices available within the $50 range. My personal two top choices for a small, inexpensive but well built folder would be the Ontario RAT 2 and the Cold Steel Tuff Lite. Both are under $30, easy to carry, and very capable. If you want more of that traditional look, go with the best Case model you can afford. Great Eastern Cutlery is really nice too for traditionals, but a bit more pricey. Another option might be an Opinel, classy and inexpensive.

u/AceofSpad3s · 1 pointr/EDC

Okay here are some suggestions

  1. Wallet. I have not ordered it yet but [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P4Y9EW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A28SBX2GB3VZCT) cigarette case could work.
  2. Knife: [Spyderco tenacious] (http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tenacious-Handle-Folding-Plain/dp/B001EI7578/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1370136756&sr=1-1&keywords=spyderco) is $32 and a little more than 3 inches or the [Spyderco ambitious] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MMSDHO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) which is a baby tenacious with a 2 1/4 inch blade and $29.
    While they are not tactical opinels are really nice and are near $10 and come in lots of sizes.

  3. Pens: I have a [zerbra 701] (http://www.amazon.com/Zebra-F-701-Stainless-Ballpoint-Retractable/dp/B002L6RB80) and a [Fisher space bullet pen] (http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Space-Pen-Bullet-400/dp/B000095K9D/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1370136956&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=fisher+space+ben). For the money the zebra is excellent, the bullet pen is nice but there is a tutorial on how to mode the zebra to take space pen refills which is the best of both.
  4. I know you got the wave but I suggest getting a small mt like a sak or a leatherman ps4 or micra. The victorinox classic sd is good and about $10

    Also with all the stuff you want to carry, It might be wise to invest in a maxpediton micro pocket organizer which is about $15
    If you got any questions just ask.
u/jassack04 · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

If you really want a monster sized knife, sure. But I'd definitely get the carbon steel version that some others have suggested as well. It sounds like their quality isn't too bad.

However, I don't know if I'd really want to take something that huge hiking. Maybe SHTF-type hiking I suppose.

A couple of knives that I'd think would be similar priced or less (and have proven reputations) and would slightly more practically fall into the "only 1" category:

u/bcphotog · 2 pointsr/ar15

> I'm looking for a good cleaning kit and set of tools for this gun.

For a starter kit, i'd recommend something like this setup:

  • Otis Cleaning Kit
  • 6" Q-Tips - Great for the hard to reach spots a regular short Q-Tip can't reach.
  • TekMat - Only cleaning mat brand i'll go with, durable, and solid for the price.
  • CLP - Whatever you prefer, everyone has something they like/prefer. For now, i've been using RandCLP to clean my guns for the last year, and some ALG Go-Juice as my lube.
  • Brushes - I don't use these as often as some do, most use them for stuff like scrubbing their BCG's. I only clean my AR's after a high round count, so i use mine maybe once a month when i clean my regular phosphate BCG's.
  • Shop Towels - I use the shit out of these. After shooting suppressed i gave up on being real anal-retentive about cleaning, so i just wipe down parts (BCG, uppers, CH, etc) with a shop towel and re-lube where needed. I only do a detailed cleaning maybe 1-2 a year.
  • AR Tool - Despite Tapco stuff usually being Chinese junk, their AR tool is pretty tip-top, i've had it for about 3.5 years now and used it a lot, it's held up wonderfully.

    I use a kit i put together myself for cleaning my handguns, rifles, shotgun, etc, for cleaning. My guns get cleaned differently, which gun it is dictates how it'll get clean and how often.
u/RikVanguard · 3 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I've had a lot of luck with the Lansky Sharpening system. I also recommend the little spindly mount if you don't have a vice. It isn't really necessary, but I find it makes sharpening a lot easier.

There are a lot of videos out there, but this is the one that helped me the most. I know it's not recommended to sharpen a knife by moving the stone backwards (from tip to handle) but I've tried to replicate his methods and had fantastic results.

That said, it takes some practice to develop a feel for how much pressure to apply and what motions to use. It took me about a month of not-really-sharpened knives to realize that I wasn't using anywhere near enough force with the coarser stones to form a burr. This guy outlines how to feel a burr pretty well (the whole video is a bit long, but definitely helps with some little tricks.) I also run my nail along the length of the blade to feel for a fully-formed burr.

Other than that, just keep practicing and trying new techniques, and find what is most comfortable and efficient for you.

u/Reachmonkey · 2 pointsr/knives

okay, so... as far as cheap sharpening goes, stay away from pull thru sharpeners they give a mediocre edge and take years off the steel.
a cheap-ish way is to get a stone but learning to free hand sharpen is a pain and can take years to truly get the hang of. also chosing grits and a good stone that wont crumble and scratch the shit out of your knife.

you can get a lansky for 35-40$

or you can get a spyderco sharpmaker for 50-60$

i use one of these for rough stuff, really bad edges and reprofiling. i would recommend this because if you arent going to be sharpening often and dont need a razor edge itll be fine.

a good strop can get expensive but honestly you can just pick one for 15-20$ and some buffing compound for 3-10$

you can also use one of these to get a mirror edge, closer to finishing, freehand sharpening again has a larger learning curve, practice on a crappy knife. seriously. you will fuck up at first. you should see my first knife, gross...

if you decide in the freedom of freehand sharpening, check out atomedges guide in the sidebar. pretty helpful.

u/tehspiah · 7 pointsr/airsoft

Okay, here's my recommended loadout for you: (using your $1k budget)

Gun: Tokyo Marui Recoil Shock M4 SOCOM $460 Test firing video of gun

And yes, despite all the Tokyo Marui stigma that all their electric guns are cheap plastic, the new ones (since 2009) are made of metal.

Mags x3-5 $75-$125

Battery and Charger

Most Tokyo Marui guns hold their values really well, and they perform well too. Most guns, when you open the box, they instantly lose 1/3 of their value from you just touching it. But Tokyo Marui guns have a reputation of being reliable and pretty rare outside of Japan, so they hold their values much better, usually at 80% of original, or sometimes if you find the right buyer it'll hold 100% of their value. Not to mention they perform very good and have superb accuracy right out of the box. The Socom M4 also has a unique bolt lock (like the Systema PTW) and a simulated recoil function that provides feedback when you shoot it. Downside to this gun is that you need to buy special magazines for the gun to feed, or buy an adapter. So if you somehow don't like Airsoft, then you can resell this gun for basically MSRP.

Shirt: Voodoo Tactical Combat shirt $30 Best combat shirt, very breathable, has zippers to vent armpits as well.

Plate Carrier: Shellback Tactical Banshee plate carrier $130 Pretty much a real steel plate carrier, one of the best you can buy, and is not that bulky for better mobility.

Dump pouch: Any dump pouch will do, $15

Mag pouches: I use a condor one $20 (because I'm cheap) but I've tried a HSGI Taco pouch $30 each and they're pretty good... But pretty expensive

Eye Protection: If you play outdoors and want goggles, I can't really give you a recommendation here, but I play indoors and I use a full facemask the dye i4. It fits really well to your face, is low profile, and never fogs.

I would use the remaining money on gun equipment to make to make it more "OPERATORZ"

G&P red dot sight Eotech 551 clone $60

Magpul PTS Handguards $20

Magpul MOE vertical Grip $20 will only work with the MOE hand guards above

u/Silverlight42 · 1 pointr/Survival

Depends on many things... and once you get to high quality knives, preference is a huge thing.

I enjoy ESEE-3MIL

They have one of the best warranties, but the price also reflects it.
it's 1095 high carbon steel, easy to sharpen and maintain, but can rust if you don't keep it clean.


You probably don't need a large knife for most things.

If you want to spend more on something fancy you can get a BUSSE




as everyone said... can't go wrong with mora for the price.. i'm personally not a fan though. I wouldn't say overall it's high quality, but the blade, where it matters.. is.


It's not too difficult to find a good camp/hunting knife. Like I said, mostly preference.

Just make sure you go with a good knife company or maker.

You can even find some real nice custom fixed knives for cheap from up and coming knife makers if you search around a bit.

Also, you could just get a folding knife.


if you want a super inexpensive one that's as legendary as the mora there is opinel no 8 - also carbon steel



or the Ontario Rat


anyhow, tons of options.

u/fluffman86 · 1 pointr/EDC

I've got a cheap sheffield and a cheap Winchester multitool, and a nice but very old Leatherman that doesn't open properly because I tried to cut wire that was WAY too thick with it and warped the cutters.

Now that I've got a new flashlight on my belt, I'm considering adding another multi tool. Not much room left in my pockets. Most days I could add a small multitool with the Burts Bees and leave the lighter home, but some days my phone has to join that pocket depending on the pants, or maybe a disc golf mini marker if I'm out playing.

So I'm pretty sure I want a leatherman, but 1) I don't know what my best value tool is (I wanted the Wave about 5 or 6 years ago and never bought it) and 2) I'm a little disappointed they don't come with a leather pouch any more. Wal-Mart has them locked up and in a clamshell so I can't really get them out to play with them.

What do you recommend, /r/EDC?


Here's the rest of my EDC:

Wallet - Dyno Mighty - Mighty Wallet - Wealth of Knowledge

Knife - Byrd Cara Cara 2

Flashlight (On Belt) - Nitecore P12 - 2015 Version

Pistol - Kahr CW9

IWB Holster (not pictured) - Comp-Tac Infidel

Spare Mag Pouch for Pocket - Desantis Mag-Packer

Phone / Camera - HTC One M8

u/radison · 3 pointsr/Portland

I have this knife. I carry it every day, and use it a whole lot more than I ever thought I would. Never for self-defense, but it does provide a small bit of peace of mind just in case.

There's a few things I like about it:

It's cheap!

It's small and very well made.

It flips open like a switchblade, but isn't considered one. It also makes a cool sound when you do that.

It holds a sharp edge

The pocket clips don't wear out.

Sharpens nicely


You can carry a pocketknife anywhere in Oregon. It's no big deal whatsoever. Check out Oregon's Knife Laws here. Oregon is a super lenient state when it comes to knife laws.

Enjoy!

u/ARKnife · 1 pointr/knives

First of all - congrats!

Second of all, IMO the best knife to get as a present for groomsmen is the Buck 110 Folding Hunter:

  • Good looking, easily recognizable classic knife.

  • It's made in the US.

  • Could actually be used and will not fold during normal use (good strong lock).

  • Comes with a good quality leather sheath.

  • Well within your budget.

    Plus you could get it engraved and make the present even more special.

    Cheers and good luck!
u/RJDavid8 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Papa Johns worker with Irma right around the corner.

Top Row (from left to right):

Oakley SI Half Jacket 2.0: $72 with knockoff polarized mirrored lenses bought on amazon here for $20.

Leatherman Pro Wave: Not a special edition of Wave, just bought through Leatherman's Pro program. $55 with the clip found here for $5.

Timex Ironman Classic 30: Great $30-$40 digital watch that through everything has yet to hiccup, let alone fail, once.

iPhone 7: Matte Black. I'm one of those people who actually doesn't love or hate apple of android. I just happen to have a macbook and an iPhone, and that works for me.

Otterbox Symmetry Series: Wanted a $35 case to match my phone and got one. Lint and dust all over the port openings and inside the case?! Works great, just likes to get dirty.

Oakley SI Flak Beta Prism: $117 through Oakley's standard issue, these are the steel frames thanks to some confusing customer service calls. Polarized lenses with their mumbo jumbo technology actually make colors pop a bit.

Middle Row:

Black Leather Wallet: I don't know, probably found at Kohls or something. Nothing special, just gets the job done.

Field Notes Expedition: Awesome $13 notebooks that use a plasticy paper for writing in any conditions. Finally halfway through my first book, as I like to use all of the real estate available on each page. A bit worn, but character, right?

Amazon Special Wristwatch: There's so much conflicting branding everywhere, who knows who makes it. Anyway, have had it for a while and it seems to tell time. The band is a bit weird, but what would one expect for $16?

Car Keys: RIP me. I drive a minivan. sigh. Oh well, it's what I got.

Bottom Row:

Spyderco Tenacious: Perfect $40 knife if you don't want a beater and also don't want your wallet to scream in agony. I just need a good whetstone set to be able to do it justice.

Bose Soundsport Earbuds: Stay in my weird ears. I exercise regularly, but that doesn't mean I like it. Music helps me forget the lactic acid burning my muscles. They don't make the audio-only ones anymore, so here's a $99 pair for apple devices.

Wristbands: Air Force Academy in blue and Domestic Violence in purple. I wear these because I don't want to expose myself to the world of "Etsy." yikes.

Chrome Fisher Space Pen Bullet With Clip: ~$20 and so damn slippery. Awesome pen for being a pen, but I need something more practical for greasy hands. Any ideas? Not looking for anything more than like 30 bucks.

Kizer Vagnino Velox 2: A beautiful flipper on ballbearings. HOLY cow this thing flies out with vengeance and feels like a million bucks. A true gentleman's folder. However, I am not a gentleman... I see some ugly grip tape in it's future to make up for impracticality of no serrations on the back of the blade or handle for grip. Before anyone tries to complain about a 17 yr old with a $200 knife, I found 'er on Massdrop for $82 after shipping. Would I say it is worth the 13 hours of work needed to pay for it? Yes. Yes I would.

u/mpak87 · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

Awesome advice, all of the above models would be quite suitable. For pure woods use, something with a brighter color would probably do quite well for you. But I'm going to have to stick my neck out for some downvotes as well by disagreeing with the half-serration comment. I don't see it as "tactical," at all. I tend to prefer a half-serrated blade. I like serrations for cutting things like rope, handfuls of plastic sheeting, etc. If you just want a knife for the woods, you might not worry about it. I have knives that I carry with both types of edge, but I usually gravitate back to the half-serration. My personal every day carry is an older generation of Spyderco Endura which has a 4" blade, but is very light, well made, and strong. They make a 3" version called the Delica which I carried a lot when I was younger. You can get a perfectly serviceable knife for a lot less, but I've been carrying these for almost 20 years, and my current one has been through a hell that no knife deserves. They make them with plain edges as well, I've had them, but I don't tend to like them as much. Good luck, and I feel like pretty much everyone should have a knife. You just never know when it might be useful.

u/Recycle0rdie · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

First of all this is the item i think you will purchase with this order - http://amzn.com/B00006IE7L

Now for my list.... prepare to get wood ;)

  1. http://amzn.com/B003373NCO - Marble Wood, occasionally known as Cake Wood.

  2. http://amzn.com/B00C3UQZVS - Osage Orange wood, orange like simon's hair.

  3. http://amzn.com/0670759074 - Book, what wood is that?

  4. http://amzn.com/B004TNWD40 - Swedish made Mora knife. would cut through a steak as if it were water

  5. http://amzn.com/B008X2ZFG6 - Camelthorn wood, named after an animal.

  6. http://amzn.com/B0032YUTP2 - Cocobolo wood, has streaks of purple when freshly sanded.

  7. http://amzn.com/B005H59GN0 - Pocoyo Racing, a game I've wanted to buy my son for a long time.

  8. http://amzn.com/B008GUSPB2 - Masturbating to my most favorite wood species should be considered a guilty pleasure.

  9. http://amzn.com/B005G2G4D4 - A tool, this was easy

  10. http://amzn.com/B009FBJ7WM - From my childhood, Nike high tops.

  11. http://amzn.com/B009ZD6D1I - Carving set with organized display case.

  12. http://amzn.com/B00123YCQC - Carving knife set, for my hobby

  13. http://amzn.com/B00DXNYWLO - Kiridashi Kogatana blade, nerdy.... because ninjas.

  14. http://amzn.com/B007AS3PPW - Ancient Bog Oak wood, naturally black from being in a swamp for 1000+ years

  15. http://amzn.com/B004JTTWWK - Spalted Tamarind wood, sometimes known to contain streaks of pale green.

  16. http://amzn.com/B00465DUVG - Nike skate shoes, something you wear.

  17. http://amzn.com/B006HFU6HY - Macassar Ebony wood, funny because it smells like B.O when you cut it.

  18. http://amzn.com/B004JTQDM2 - Hackberry wood, comes from a flowering tree. Without bees it could not reproduce.

  19. http://amzn.com/1551052741 - Book about trees and shrubs, could potentially be used to select ornamental species for a garden.

  20. http://amzn.com/B009ZD6D1I - Deluxe woodcarving and palm tool set by Flexcut, My most favorite Item.

    Thank you so much for the contest, I had alot of fun putting this together. Happy Happy cake day /u/ask_seek_knock! and good luck to everyone!



u/HilariousMax · 10 pointsr/knives
  • ~$7-8 Sanrenmu 7010/710 - You can find these at Gearbest for cheap as hell when they have sales but they're absolutely $30 worth of knife
  • ~$10-20 Opinel no.6-12 - Depends on blade size/steel/handle wood. #6 is under 3in blade if that kind of thing matters.
  • ~$20 CRKT Drifter
  • ~$20 Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara2
  • ~$20-25 Ontario Rat II or Rat I
  • ~$30 Victorinox Cadet Alox
  • ~$30 Kershaw Cryo
  • ~$35 CRKT Ripple
  • ~$35 Spyderco Persistence
  • ~$40 Kershaw Skyline - Often on sale in the ~$30 range
  • ~$40 Kershaw Leek - Same sales as with the Skyline \^^

    Honorable Mention: Case knives. Traditional lockbacks. Hard as nails and pretty to boot. True pocket knives. Your grandfather (possibly great grandfather) had one. Good stuff the lot of them. $25-50 will get you a legacy knife that you can carry and use and then pass to your kid.

    You don't need to spend $200 to get a quality, durable, reliable knife. I've owned all of these knives at one time or another and loved every one of them. Sure they needed sharpening more often and sometimes something a little more drastic (Sanrenmus are often cheaper to replace than fix) but the value is insane. Plus, lets face facts; we're much more likely to break out our Cadet when we get box duty than our Sebenza.

    Knife enthusiasts (brothers) if there's a weighed and measured cheapo that I forgot, let me know.
u/Roketderp · 3 pointsr/knives

I'm not an expert either, just sharing some things I do.

Oils from your hands are technically bad for the steel, but it's not the end of the world. Wipe your knife with a cloth with a little bit of WD 40 every once and a while.

For sharpening, I like the Lansky Deluxe Sharpening System. I didn't think it would see much use, but now I sharpen my knives all the times. General consensus is that it's awesome for smaller knives, but sucks for big ones (anything over 5" in my opinion)

To get the little rust spots you mentioned out, just use some steel wool.

EDC knives are tools. They get used. Don't worry about if it's pretty or not. I use my SOG Trident for random things about every other day, and I have since I got it over a year ago. The Kershaw Skyline is an excellent knife.

Google "EDC Knife Care" and I'm sure you'll get tons more answers.

u/kowalski71 · 1 pointr/AskMen

I have a basic arkansas stone that works very well at what it does... but I'm not necessarily a pro at what I do. Hand sharpening on a stone requires you to hold the knife at a very constant angle while working it through a relatively complex motion. Very difficult to get a good edge but if you practice and get the skills it's the cheapest and most versatile method of sharpening. Most people (definitely myself included) also need a decent preexisting edge to sharpen as they can 'set' the knife on that flat. Much harder if the existing edge is crap.

What I have for quick and dirty sharpening is a Lansky set. A bracket clamps to the knife and holds a rod (attached to the stone) at essentially a constant angle to the blade. It has some issues so I don't use it on the knives I really care about but it's good for really quickly bringing a beat knife back to a decently usable edge. I use my Lansky set on kitchen knives.

However, if you're willing to spend a bit more money, the Spyderco Sharpmaker is a very well reviewed product. I suppose this is my 'Everest' tip as I don't actually have one but I'll buy one eventually, when I have a particularly profitable feeling month. The idea here is that it's much easier to hold a knife vertical than at some obscure angle like 27 degrees. The put the sharpening stone on the angle then essentially do a 'chopping' motion along the stone to bring an edge in. It solves a lot of the problems of the Lansky but doesn't require as much skill as just a stone. These are rather well regarded in the knife community, though those guys still go after hand sharpening.

u/Gullex · 3 pointsr/Survival

$150 is plenty of budget for a good knife. This one is just slightly over that budget but will last you the rest of your life. It's kind of my dream survival knife.

The Fallkniven F1 is very popular as well and right in your price range.

Currently I use this knife which is also very good.

If you want to go a little less expensive still, Becker makes some good ones such as the Bk16. I know the Becker doesn't look anything like "hand made", but I have the BK2- I used paint remover to take the black coating off the blade, replaced the plastic handles with micarta and stained it to look more like wood, and built a leather sheath for it. It's a beautiful knife now. Too bad it's so goddamn heavy.

You could also go with something like the Mora bushcraft. I have that one also, very decent knife.

You could even just get a regular Mora or a Condor bushlore which are even more economical options.

u/YouMadeMeDumber · 2 pointsr/knives

There are some aesthetically pleasing knives here, but I would encourage you to look into some things with a bit more functionality. While any of these may appear to function well, a properly made knife will treat you much better in the long run.

This Kershaw is inexpensive, has good steel characteristics and is well assembled. I encourage you to get one or possibly something recommended in the knife buying guide and compare to some of the knives in your collection.

u/frenzyboard · 2 pointsr/knives

The delica is a pretty great option for whittling. It's a high carbon blade, so it holds up to wood fibers and hard use pretty well. It's got a solid lockup and zero blade play, so control and safety are taken care of. But honestly, it's a better EDC tool than a carving knife.

Another good option I'd throw out for you are high carbon mora blades.

You might also dig this. It's specially made for wood work.

u/InevitablyChloe · 1 pointr/airsoft

Personally, I would recommend saving a bit for one of these. You get a tougher receiver which, if you take care of it, will never have to replace. CYMA's proline AKs are the toughest that I've handled, and they will last.

Your first battery choice should be a NiMh, because they accommodate new players well. I suggest starting with this. Intellect cells haven't failed me yet.

I've heard that Tenergy has decent ones, but there are some consistency issues with my experience. They burnt out a £70 frankentorque motor that I installed for a customer (granted, it didn't have a MOSFET, my mistake), but the battery somehow clocked into a bunch of voltometers at around 11.3 volts. Quite unusual, considering that it should have been 9.6. I am sure that I just got a really crappy battery. (I know it was the battery, because it worked okay on my other NiMhs until I tossed that one on)

When using a NiMh, that Tenergy smart charger works fine.

If you plan on running any kind of LiPo, ESPECIALLY 11.1v and up, install a MOSFET. Even if you get a gun which already has a MOSFET, replace it. No stock gun has a good MOSFET that will protect your trigger contacts as good as this one.

Your current choices are good if you are stuck on that budget and need to play now, but if you can hold out for a little more, then definitely spend the extra money to get the best. Good luck!

u/Taboggan · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Well, I prefer a lighter EDC, so i'd recommend the

  • Kershaw Skyline

    This one is a very nice EDC for most people who use a knife for lighter tasks such as box cutting, opening packages and the like. I would not recommend this for someone who tends to use their knives for "heavier duty" tasks.

  • Kershaw Leek

    Pretty much the same recommendation criteria as the Skyline, but this knife is both spring assisted, and has a more "delicate" point.

  • Spyderco Delica

    Probably one of the most recommended knives for someone who wants an overall solid EDC at the price point with a lot of versatility and good overall durability. I own one myself, and this one is great for EDC.

  • Ontario RAT 2

    The Ontario knife company really hit it out of the park with the RAT series, the Ontario RAT model II is a better choice for EDC over the RAT model I, mainly because the knife is a bit smaller putting it at about 2.75" blade and less "intimidating" for someone who needs for EDC.

  • ESEE Izula

    I really like the Izula as a fixed blade EDC knife, it's a fucking tank and you can be sure you can rely on it everywhere, but it does lose some versatility and convenience because it isn't a folder.

    --------------------------------------------------

    Please keep in mind that these are just my suggestions and reviews, if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask me anything.
u/Clocktease · 4 pointsr/toptalent

That is a very good range, great price point for awesome hunting knives.

Here’s a couple all purpose bushcraft/outdoors knives:

The Benchmade Buschraft: Micarta scales and a very nice leather sheath put it at $200 even. Benchmade is made in the US and is very well known for their high quality and their great warranties. I just bought a Crooked River and am enamored by it.

https://www.amazon.com/Benchmade-162-Bushcrafter-Drop-Point/dp/B00B0E1MB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549089167&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=benchmade%2Bbushcraft&dpPl=1&dpID=41uGBLFBQNL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

Next up is the Fallkniven F1. It’s got a composite rubber handle but is still full tang. Made out of VG10 which means high rust resistance, great for bloodwork in the cold when you don’t have a lot of time to clean it. This brand is out of Sweden and those dudes know their outdoors gear. I could go on and on about them but there’s not much more needed to be said. At $115 you’re getting an incredible knife for a hell of a price.

https://www.amazon.com/Fallkniven-F1-Thermorun-Handle-Sheath/dp/B001JA9Y66/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549089232&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fallkniven&dpPl=1&dpID=41BlkNY8VfL&ref=plSrch

Now look at the Esee 6P, this is a good example of everything a knife should be and no more. Its 1095 high carbon steel so the implication would be to keep it cleaned and oiled, but there is a DLC (diamond like carbon coating) so it will keep the rust at bay until it wears off over time. $116 is a modest price, especially for the size of this particular knife.

https://www.amazon.com/ESEE-Desert-Molded-Polymer-Sheath/dp/B0049TYBL2/ref=pd_aw_sim_468_1/147-9912666-5096041?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0049TYBL2&pd_rd_r=35b4fb85-26b5-11e9-a2ee-7323802ef2ad&pd_rd_w=EV1gz&pd_rd_wg=WIYnq&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=VEHBMYRN110K86ZGZE9G&psc=1&refRID=VEHBMYRN110K86ZGZE9G

That being said I don’t know a great deal of “brand name” filet knives but what I can assure you of is that there is no more a reliable product than a Morakniv. They literally have a knife for every job, and they’re all incredibly robust and utilitarian. Don’t let the low price point fool you, they are worth much more than the company charges. These are made of 12c27n sandvik steel, again in Sweden. The steel is good stuff, nothing glamorous but still a step above 440c. They have awesome belt clips that are just as simple as can be and I couldn’t personally suggest a whole line of knives other than Morakniv.

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Fishing-Comfort-Stainless-6-1-Inch/dp/B00EAL1HI4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549089826&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mora%2Bfillet%2Bknife&dpPl=1&dpID=31IMwXb73cL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

u/TRTBrandonSchaub · 1 pointr/Bowyer

It's really important that you get a tool that's right for you. As you notice, I don't recommend planes, the other guy did.

I have reasons but they are mostly my own. For eexample I wouldn't recommend planes because they will only work when working on straight grain. The moment you encounter a knot, you'll be struggling. And on top of it, planes are expensive and only the expensive ones are worth getting. A cheap drawknife or rasp works fine but a cheap plane is gonna make you cry.

Now, you were saying you don't wanna file for 10 hours. I think you're a little bit mistaken about rasps. You will probably be surprised how quick a good, coarse rasp is. They can devour wood. The reason why you need a rasp is because there will be spots in wood where the grain is running off. A cutting tool will struggle to cut when grain runs off but a rasp will still work.

Alright, I recommend the following. Get yourself a rasp. I have no particular recommendation. Check out ebay and see if you can get one there. If not, get one from harbor freight. Look for a big one. Possibly these 4-in-1s.

Then, get a Morakniv knife. The company is famous for making high quality bushcrafting knives. These knives are absolutely amazing for working on wood.

And a knife is better than a plane or drawknife if you don't have a workbench. Just place the wood against the ground and your foot and use the knife.

On Amazon for $14, the companion. https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40

It's one of their cheapest and great. They come with a scandi grind. It's the best grind for woodworking and easiest to resharpen.

u/mikochu · 1 pointr/airsoft

Check out the Krytac forum for technical discussions on Krytac products.

I've got my FDE Krytac LVOA-C on the way, but I did order two batteries from Hobby King:

2000mah 2S 15~25C LiPo (7.4V)

2000mah 3S 15~25C LiPo (11.1v)

Researching on the Krytac forum, if you have a US-market Krytac AEG, you should be fine using a 11.1v. However, if you are in Europe, you may have better results with the 7.4v. My friend received his US-market LVOA-C last week and the 11.1v worked great.

I'd also recommend this Tenergy charger: http://amzn.com/B004FGWY54
I've got a more involved LiPo fast charger, but the Tenergy is a simple balance charger that'll do the job just fine. Also, don't forget to get a Kevlar lipo bag for safety!

u/billbillbilly · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

You gotta be more specific in your original questions buddy.

First of all, there are 2 reasons to remove an animal from a trap. To rescue (and minimize harm to the animal), or to harvest (and minimize damage to the trap). Here in bushcrafter land, I wouldn't usually assume you aren't planning on eating what was caught in the trap.....

It does sound like you are looking for the rescue side of things, and this is for a film, and you are looking for realism..

A swiss army knife or basic folding pocketknife are fairly realistic options for what a typical person might have with them with just a general plan of being 'prepared'. Something like 4-5inch Condor Bushlore is a decent approximation for what a more bushcraft oriented person might have with them in a wilderness setting. Someone who is going out intentionally to rescue animals from traps though, that is an entirely different question! For that you'd want a blunt tip, the type found in rescue knives, and/or EMT scissors.

For realism, most of us here know enough about the various types of knife that we could likely give you good answers - but you really should explain what kind of realism you are actually going for.

Average outdoorsy person with basic 'preparedness' is likely to have something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Army-Huntsman-Leather/dp/B000IOI0NC/

Or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Spine-Fixed-Blade-Camping/dp/B07DDCG3HD

Average Joe who has no idea of what makes a knife good or useful is likely to have something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Tac-Force-Police-Assisted-Tactical-Rescue/dp/B01LZ0T3N9



Average bushcraft subreddit user probably has something similar to:

https://www.amazon.com/Condor-Tool-Knife-Bushlore-Hardwood/dp/B002CC6BPM

but wishes they had:

https://www.amazon.com/Benchmade-162-Bushcrafter-Drop-Point/dp/B00B0E1MB6

Someone going out with them intention of rescuing persons or animals would probably be carrying something like this though:

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Rescue-Tool-Pocket-Fluorescent/dp/B000PX0LKG

https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Assist-Orange-Handle-Rescue/dp/B0012G6KI2

https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-832590-Raptor-Shears/dp/B07N6P2RCB

https://www.amazon.com/DGX-Titanium-Coated-Stainless-Shears/dp/B01B2YF0AM

And then finally, I'll say this - pretty much anything sharper than a butter knife can be used to safely rescue an animal from most situations. Hell I could probably do it with a can opener or nail clippers. So just decide what sort of situation you expect your characters to have intentionally been prepared for, and go from there.

https://www.amazon.com/GI-P-38-Can-Opener-5-pack/dp/B005EAIXAU

u/lotrouble · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

First and foremost, thank you for the contest. It was fun!

u/papermageling · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

So, it's not hard for a knife to be BIFL. In fact, I have some $10 knives that probably are. What you pay for with a knife is edge quality, geometry, balance, and handle. In a lot of ways, having something to sharpen said knives with is the most important thing, as otherwise your knives will inevitably end up just as dull as your grandmother's.

How much time and effort are you interested in putting into your knives? There are a variety of options. Purists tend to prefer a sharpening stone, as it offers the greatest control. If you want to nerd about your knives, this allows you to control the edge angle and exactly how much material you remove from the knife. It's also the hardest though, and the one you're most likely to slack off from. The Lansky System offers nearly as much control and greater ease of use, and many people like this option.

If you know that both of those options are realistically not going to happen, get a pull through. It'll take a bit more metal from the edge when you sharpen it, but it's worth it if it's what you'll use. I got my parents one, actually. If you get a Western knife, you can pretty much get any pull through. If you get at least one Asian knife, get this pull through so that you can control the angle, as Asian knives are generally sharpened to a more acute angle.

As for knives? You can get really nice ones like Tojiro and Shun, you can get well reviewed ones like Victorinox, and as long as you don't get the super cheapo micro serrated knives, you'll probably be fine. I've got some Tramontina knives from Costco that are quite reasonable, and some Kom Kom knives which I adore and which are stupid cheap. Don't stick wood handled knives in the dishwasher (in general, the dishwasher dulls knives, but it also really is not kind to wood handles), and full tang knives are much better when you're talking wood handles, because they add extra stability.

Don't bother spending a ton of money on bread knives: they're incredibly difficult to sharpen, so it's really not worth it.

u/test18258 · 1 pointr/knives

Its sad how many "professionals" out there are just morons with a belt sander.

Assuming that your trying to only spend whats on that gift card you looking at the lansky clamp system or one of the chinese edge pro knockoff sharpeners.

the lansky is a decent sharpener but can be a little bit fiddly to work with. however its capable of leaving a mirror polished perfectly flat edge once you know how to use it properly.

Lansky

The edge pro clones are going to be various levels of quality as they are chinese clones of an actual quality product. And if you do decide to get an edge pro knock off please get real edge pro stones or aftermarket stones made fro the edge pro the ones that come with the chinese clones tend to be garbage.

fake edge pro

I know you probably want to spend the money on the amazon gift card but you can also find knife sharpeners for relatively cheap on things like craigslist or here on /r/Knife_Swap

If your willing to spend more than the $50 on the giftcard there are a few more sharpeners that become available such as the spyderco sharpmaker, a real edge pro (cheaper varients apex 1,2 or 3 dont buy the version thats $700) a KME, wicked sharp, and a few others.

If you do decide to get the edge pro I would highly suggest getting the real thing if you can afford it. The edge pro stock stones are perfectly servicable but many of the aftermarket stones for it are way better.

Though if you are on a budget for this you could also get the chinese fake and get some either stock or aftermarket edge pro stones.

The only systems I have personal experience with are the edge pro and the spyderco sharpmaker though the rest of the ones I mentioned come highly recommended often.

u/zxj4k3xz · 8 pointsr/airsoft

ICS PAR MK3

For batteries you have a couple options:

7.4v lipo from Hobbyking (not sure on the exact one, but this should work) with Imax B6AC

Or

9.6v nimh with smart charger.

Lipos are better than Nimh, but you do need the fancy charger and they require a bit more care. heres a good care guide for them. The benefits are the smaller size, lower price, last longer per mah, and are more powerful.

u/_bd_ · 2 pointsr/knives

Thanks, but I can't find a version with a plain blade, just with part serrated blade.

But in the suggestions at Amazon i found the Kershaw 1990 Brawler (link) which looks good. Not "as tanto" (can't think of a better description but I hope you understand what i mean) as I'd like but for the prize it seems like a good alternative.

u/Ropeless · 1 pointr/orangecounty

What kind of knife?

I agree with the comments about learning to do it yourself, but freehand sharpening is a skill that takes time to learn, and you'll want to do on cheaper knives at first.

I usually recommend a lansky constant angle sharpener for most people. It's easy to use, and will give you a perfect edge, much better than most people get freehand.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000B8IEA4?pc_redir=1404306988&robot_redir=1

If you still need it sharpened in a week or so,
Send me a PM, I'm in Brea, and could sharpen it for you if you like. (Knife making is my hobby)

u/PapaShane · 1 pointr/knives

For ~$30, get one of the "high-end" Moras. I have this one, it's very sharp, very comfortable, nice and light, and great for camp chores like food prep, whittling, cutting cord, etc.
For ~$120-$150, get a Fallkniven. The F1 model is smaller and cheaper, the S1 is a bit bigger, and I think the A1 is the biggest. They're fantastic; great steel, thick but not too thick blade, exposed tang, unbreakable handle. I took my Mora and my Fallkniven camping with me a few weekends ago. The Fallkniven was used to baton through dead wood to make firewood, the Mora was used for cooking and lighter chores. Neither one shows any wear, though they were both used vigorously. And they're both still sharp as hell.
Those are the two that I can personally recommend, and frankly I'm surprised that Fallkniven hasn't come up more here if you're willing to spend upwards of $100 on a knife. If you need to stick to a budget, then a Mora will never let you down. The ESEEs also have a great reputation and people around here love them, so you can't go wrong with those either, I just prefer the style of Fallkniven more than ESEE. One thing that everyone will agree on is to stay away from Gerber if you want a good, dependable blade.

u/Peoples_Bropublic · 1 pointr/knives

A fixed blade would be perfect. Mora knives are excellent inexpensive knives that are quite commonly used for camping. They make some with wooden handles, composite handles, stainless blades, and carbon blades. My understanding is that their stainless blades don't hold an edge quite as well as their carbon blades, but carbon blades have the disadvantage of being susceptible to rust. So for an outdoor camping application where you're likely to be running around in dirt and mud and rain and lakes and streams and not likely to have a supply of rubbing alcohol, clean cloths, metal polish, and mineral oil, a stainless blade with composite handle would probably serve you best.

On the other hand, Cody London, that hippy dude from Dual Survival pretty much exclusively uses classic Moras with wooden handles and carbon blades. On the other other hand, he also doesn't wear pants or shoes.

Here are a few to look at.

u/ALeapAtTheWheel · 2 pointsr/knives

This answer assumes 1) you want a few knives to cover different uses and 2) you can dig in the couch cushions for $3.53 or you can wait for Amazon's prices to fluctuate just a little bit. The price on the Kershaw jumped $3 just while I am typing this up...

EDC: Kershaw Blur, $54.17. I'm a little goofy, and I like the serrated tanto even though it looks like ass. I assume for most people, they'd prefer the straight blade. I've had one for a few years, and it works great. Just the right size, comfortable grippy handle, and I love the opening mechanism.

Camping knife: Condor Tool and Knife Bushlore 4.375-Inch Drop Point Blade, $36.41. The QA on fit and finish is apparently an issue with this company, but I didn't notice any problem on mine. It's not going to win a beauty competition, but its a hard worker. One of the comments on Amazon says it's the AK-47 of the knife world. I'm inclined to agree.

Inconspicuous Folder: Opinel #8, $12.95. I don't actually own one of these, so caveat emptor, but they come highly recommended by the hive mind. It's a classy looking folder that you could carry around in your suit's jacket pocket or your briefcase.

u/djstefan96 · 3 pointsr/knives

For fixed blade if you are gonna be using the knife for hard use then I would not recommend a folder. I'm more knowledgeable on folders so someone else may find a better choice. If they don't, this is still a very solid choice, I have never had one, but I did have an izula (which is very similar).

For folder I would go with the Ontario rat, they make this is d2 blade steel which would be better and they make a smaller version (rat 2) but any version of this knife you choose will be the best for the money.

Another fixed blade that is similar to picture is this Schrade. Schrade usually isn't the best company but 1095 is definitely a cheap, good steel. With the blade thickness and steel, I would trust this knife any day.

u/FastAktionJakson · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

Congrats on starting the journey that is bushcraft and woodsmanship. It's such a rewarding pastime. Since you seem to be loading up on gear I have on huge piece of advise for you. I beg you BEG YOU to invest a little bit of money on a good belt knife. Nothing to fancy. Some thing like an Old Hickory butcher knife or a good quality Mora . Both are relatively inexpensive and quality products. When I started out I bought a cheap "survival knife" which wasn't worth the cardboard packaging it came in and then eventually upgraded to the Bear Grylls ultimate survival knife which promptly broke after about 3 overnights of use. Budget bushcraft is fine for most things however spending 15 dollars on a mora you will have to replace MAYBE every 3 or 4 years if you take care of it certainly beats spending 10 dollars 3 or 4 times a year on junk. Good luck and remember... in the famous words of Ray Mears "If you're in the woods and you're 'roughing it' you're doing something wrong"

u/TheNoggin · 2 pointsr/knives

LOL, i just bought BOTH of these knives like a month ago(drunk amazon shopping can be dangerous). I thought i would like the brawler better and the blade design does make it better for some stuff i do at work, but it took me all of 2 days to fall for the cryo as my preferred EDC. It feels more solid in my hand, its a bit shorter, and its thinner. The clip on it lets it sit lower in your pocket as well. As someone who is in and of their pockets a good bit the thickness is actually a big plus.

These knives were purchased to replace a Kershaw Clash that i lost and i would definitely recommend looking into that one as well if you havent already, i really liked it but just wanted to get something different.

u/shoangore · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I use Tekmat's bench mats - originally intended for cleaning long guns as it has exploded views of the guns, but I use one at work and one at home- I LOVE them. They're cheaper than the computer branded stuff (corsair and razer carry them but for a much higher price) at around $20-22 average. Way more than enough space for keyboard, mouse and HOTAS setup to all fit comfortably on it.

Link

Not to mention they look awesome.

Slightly cheaper

u/Mcfly56 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

With the battery and charger you have on there they don't match. you can't use a nimh charger on a lipo you'll blow it up.

If you're going to use a lipo battery I use this charger

https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Cells-Li-PO-Balance-Charger/dp/B004FGWY54/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510907253&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=airsoft+lipo+charger&psc=1

also with that battery it will only work if your gun is front wired (the plug for the battery is in your handguard) if its rear wired it wont work because you need the battery in the buffer tube.

as far as the gun sack you can pick up a hard rifle case at walmart for under 25$ and it will keep your rifle safe and you can lock it with padlocks if you'd like

I also really wouldn't recommend a paintball mask either cause they usually fog unless you get a really nice one like a dye i4/i5. they are also almost impossible to aim down sights with. I use arena flak jaks as I just pop out the vents and they never fog and you can get cheap replacement lens on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arena-Flakjak-Tactical-Eye-Protective-Goggles-Tan-Airsoft-Paintball-Tactical-New/253221912379?epid=1001535811&hash=item3af533bf3b:g:sNEAAOSwCmNZxI2I

others recommend the pyramix goggles as they are lower profile but I just find it easy for them to move off my eyes by just moving facial muscles

https://www.amazon.com/Pyramex-I-Force-Sporty-Anti-Fog-Goggle/dp/B006WPSDXS/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510907577&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=pyramix+i+force

with those if you want lower face protection most people recommend the one tigris as it makes it easy to aim down your sights

https://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Comfortable-Adjustable-Protective-Available/dp/B01MTS1611/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510907635&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=one+tigris+mesh+mask&psc=1

bamf mags I've heard many different things on them so i guess it just depends on your gun if they fit they will be good if not kwa k120s, g&p skullfrog, and pts epm are all good mid caps and those go in order from least to most expensive

u/Kilo353511 · 8 pointsr/bugout

Here is what would use for $100 USD. All prices are via Amazon/Wal-mart

Pack: OutLander Lightweight Day Pack - Cheap, Lightweight and would get the job done for a GHB ($18)

Cutting: Morakniv Companion - Cheap and Mora makes some of the best knives ($12)

Combustion: Storm Matches ($6), All-weather matches($0.75), 2 Bic Lighters($2), and some Wetfire($6)

Cover: 3 Emergency Blankets($2)

Container: Back pack listed above, 6 bottles of water ($3), Single layer stainless steel bottle($7)

Cordage: 100 Feet of 550 ($6), Duct tape ($3)

Candlelight: 2 LED Lights ($4-12)

Consumables: 6 Cliff bars ($6), 3 %-Hour Energy ($6), Bag of trail Mix ($6)

Clothing: 2 Extra Pair of socks ($2), 2 pair Gloves ($7), 2 Hats ($10)

Communication: 3 Road Flares ($6) Signaling Mirror ($3)

Cash: $40-100 is recommended but this is optional.




Everything I have there (Cash excluded) should cost around $120. You can save money by making your own Wetfire with cotton balls and petroleum jelly. And the food can probably be replaced with cheaper items. I just put stuff I am comfortable with. Same is true with the flashlights, you could grab 4 of the $1
Wal-mart lights they are great for short term use and would cut out another $8.

Buy stuff in bulk when it is available too this will cut down cost.

Something every car should already have, but it worth the extra $10-20 is a small first aid kit or 2.

u/theoutrider5485 · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

The man that sharpens my knives locally, explained to me that all dish washing detergents have abrasives in them to clean your dishes better. Abrasives are bed for a keen edge. Personally I have been using
Morakniv Companions as steak knives. I chose these knives because my buddy who is a survival instructor and search and rescue personnel swears by them for anything, outdoors or indoors. The blade lasts forever and the edge on the carbon steel lasts longer than stainless because carbon steel is harder. I bought three and they are pretty amazing. They are carbon steel, so they will acquire their own amazing colors as you use them.

EDIT: Find them here: http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1408767946&sr=1-1

u/free2game · 3 pointsr/knives

If you go up to $30-40 you can find a lot of great american made knives in that range like a Kershaw Skyline ($35), Salvo ($30), or Buck 110 Paperstone ($30) Classic ($35), Vantage Avid ($34)
BTW, a good pocket clip shouldn't be uncomfortable in your hand. None of the pocket knives I've owned have dug into my hand at all. The Buck is a nice option if you don't want a clip though.

u/NathCraft27 · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Oh for sure! What's your price range?

For under 40$ some great options would be the Kershaw Leek , the Kershaw Cryo (the Cryo II is a bit larger for almost the same price if you prefer) or anything Kershaw really. You could also look for Sanrenmu knives, they're good for the price.

If you're really serious and you're looking for better quality, I recommend the Spyderco Delica (smaller), the Spyderco Endura (larger) or the Benchmade Griptilian (mini or full size, your choice). I own a mini Griptilian and I love it, I really recommend it if you can justify the price.

u/uberfastman · 1 pointr/knives

I'll second /u/super_octopus 's post! I've got the Sharpmaker and it works great for all my knives, from my Buck 505 with a 1.875" blade to my custom Bowie and Kukri both with over 6" blades. The system is pretty affordable (under $60).

Alternately I've heard really good things about the Lansky system, either the three stone or five stone sets, both of which are even more affordable (under $40).

I've also got a few diamond coated whetstones for freehand sharpening, which work great too, but you just have to be prepared to go slow at first and learn how to hold your blades at the proper angles and sharpen them evenly. DMT makes some good diamond coated whetstones.

So definitely watch a few youtube videos, read the sidebar guide /u/super_octopus pointed out to you, and if you're still unsure on technique, once you get something to sharpen your knives with, try to practice first with some old beater knife or cheap blade that you might not mind having to sharpen a little extra in case it takes you a while to get it right.

u/KevinLaro · 1 pointr/knives

I had in mind this Kershaw 1605CKTST since I recently got myself a similar kershaw and I am very pleased with it.

So I kept shopping around and Buck seems decent but the blade is small at 2 1/2 inches. But that seems like it would perfect for my dad appart from the blade lenght.

Is Knifecenter.com a good place to buy. I Found a Gerber Tanto style that seems to be perfect. Opinions ?

u/IAmAPhysicsGuy · 1 pointr/DIY

Sure! Here is what I originally started with. It works great once I have an edge, but setting the edge took a lot of time on really dull knives so I bought this extra coarse diamond hone. I love it, it sets my bevel in minutes so I can go back and finish the edge with the fine stones. For a few extra bucks, you can buy the whole diamond set. I would also recommend getting the mount so you can safely attach it to a workspace.

And finally, I learned how to use the system from Aaron Gough in his video here

u/eltonnovs · 2 pointsr/knives

You get used to friction folders, but I understand your concerns. If you want a locking knife if would forget about them. Making it a locking folder is a pretty extensive mod.

It's something totally different, but the Ontario Rat 2 is a pretty popular knife over here. It locks, has good steel and is pretty affordable. But it doesn't have the looks of a higonokami.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/knives

I absolutely love the leatherman wave. It is truly great. The only thing I don't like about it is now I don't have a need for any of my other knives. Also, I just purchases a sypderco tenacious here is why. It should be arriving today and I'll tell you how I like it. Another knife to consider is a buck model 110 folding hunter. If you read the reviews they will explain why.

Edit: Got my tenacious and love it. Highly recommend.

u/CaptainTheGabe · 1 pointr/Survival

I love my small forest axe. Best survival purchase i've made. I wouldn't stray from that idea, unless you decide to refurbish an antique hatchet. I've seen people fix up sixty year old plumb scout hatchets to gransfors quality.

For knives, i use my moraknive survival and the condor bushlore. The bushlore a hardy-ass knife and it's only about thirty bucks. I use the mora regularly. That particular one is what i have, i picked it up based on the thickness of the blade, but they have far cheaper ones if you don't want to throw down that much. I believe you can get an almost identicle knife without the firesteel for around 15 bucks cheaper.
Good Review on the bushlore

Machete-wise, i love my Condor Parang. It's giant, it sharpens well, it holds an edge, and it's tough as nails. The thing is 1/4 inch thick. It's big. It also comes with a sexy leather sheath of equally high quality and durability.
I've also played around with the full size bear grylls Parang by gerber. Thing cuts like you wouldn't believe, with great weight length and balance. I use the condor, my survival bud uses the gerber. They're about equal in different ways.

u/AuRelativity · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

I really really like a $13 Mora. Rugged, sharp as heck, solid...so cheap you don't feel bad really really using it and beating the piss out of it. A real been-there-done-that guy I know recommended them to me and after using one (and having lots of other fixed blades, I truly love it)
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40
They make a serrated also:
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Serrated-4-3-Inch-Stainless/dp/B00K70MLK0/ref=sr_1_10?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1509940703&sr=1-10&keywords=mora+black


If I was going to pick anything maybe one of these:
http://www.jayfisher.com/USAF_Pararescue_Knives.htm

This with an aftermarket sheath:
https://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Snody-Handle-Included-Purple/dp/B00ILFNAYY


Actually what am I smoking. This: 100x this. If you've held it in your hand you know that it is the most comfortable knife I've ever held.

http://www.benchmade.com/bushcrafter-family.html

Although the Busse I'm evaluating now is pretty dope.... I still want a Benchmade Bushcrafter.

If it was for overall survival/utility I'd want a Himalayan Imports Khukuri.

For Search/Rescue specifically... give me a tanto-point, combo-edge...honking chunk of steel.
https://www.topsknives.com/knives/tactical/tops-pry-knife-ppp-tool
https://www.topsknives.com/knives/survival/smoke-jumper

Could be persuaded to try these
http://www.benchmade.com/fixed-blade-knives.html?blade_style_shape=861

something stupid and overbuilt (in the best way)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Axt6pJERJ38


u/CostcoMuffins · 2 pointsr/AskCulinary

Everyone here seems to be recommending whetstones, which is fine (great in fact), but I figured I'd post about an alternative to that.

I personally use the Lansky system, which has pros and cons relative to a set of nice stones but is perfectly fine for a single college student like myself, because it's cheap, easy-to-use, basically foolproof, and gives your knife-edge a very steady angle.

u/emarkd · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

Good idea but do keep in mind that different steels respond very differently to the stone. Really cheap steel will usually be quite soft, maybe even too soft to properly sharpen without it "smearing" or rolling over.

Maybe start with flea market junk, but consider something like a $20 Kershaw Cryo as an intermediary step. Its a lot better steel and will give you good practice, but if you really booger it up and can't fix it, you're only out $20.

On the other hand, if you find you can properly maintain the edge on that Cryo you'll have no problem with just about anything else you want to try, plus you've got a really good entry-level folder as well!

u/ANAL_PLUNDERING · 11 pointsr/knives

No problem.

Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)

Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)

Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)

Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)

Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)


Here is one above your price range

And one below your price range

u/brazilliandanny · 1 pointr/knives

It's a great knife for under $30. Strong blade, amazing grip on the handle.

Honestly Im not crazy about the fire starter as I keep plenty in my camping kit, so this will be redundant. But they didn't any Mora's available without it so I bought one anyway.

If you are looking for the fire starter/knife combo than it's great. other wise just get the basic Mora for half the price.

u/downhillcarver · 2 pointsr/tifu

A knife is always a good gift. You can get a fairly nice knife for $30, or a pretty decent knife for $15. If you don't feel like shopping online, you could even pick up a Gerber Mini Paraframe for $10 at Walmart. They're really more affordable gifts than you'd think.

The best part is, they're good gifts for everyone. If they're a knife enthusiast, they'll always be glad for another knife, they can always use a cheap knife as a beater knife. If they've never carried a knife, they'll give it a try and realize how convenient it is.

I gave my girlfriend the Gerber Mini Paraframe after she kept borrowing my knife. She scoffed at first, but tossed it in her purse, a week later she thanked me, saying how often it's saved the day. 3 years later, she still carries it in her purse.

u/blzd4dyz · 1 pointr/knives

The Condor Bushlore is an inexpensive option, and weighs about 12.3oz. If you're planning on batoning wood with your knife, you'll want it thick enough to withstand the force, and long enough to be able to hit the tip-side of the spine poking out from the other side of the log. Since your budget is a lot higher than that, you might want to shop around for something higher-quality.

Check out the Blind Horse Bushcrafter or Woodsman. Not sure what they weigh, but I'd be happy to lug around the extra weight of one of those beauties.

EDIT: Also note that O1 tool steel rusts very easily. Be prepared to maintain those blades quite a bit. It's very tough, though, and decently easy to sharpen. I read somewhere that, when polled, most knifemakers would choose O1 for their personal blades. It's the same steel as in the Ray Mears Woodlore knife.

u/MisterNoisy · 2 pointsr/ar15

If you want a good budget fixed magnification optic, I really like Primary Arms stuff - their prism scopes run around $250-300 and are tough as nails with clever BDC/ranging reticles and pretty good glass.

For budget red dots I like PA, Holosun and Vortex.

If you're just looking for a decent cheap RDS that'll get you shooting and hold zero, the Bushnell TRS-25 can be had for $50 or so and will serve just fine. Add a UTG riser (absolute cowitness / lower 1/3 cowitness) for under $10 and you're in business.

u/macbooklover91 · 3 pointsr/EDC

Well heres a list of some from amazon.

u/SamISaubrier · 4 pointsr/Survival

The Condor Bushlore is another great knife in the thirty-forty dollar range. Heavier and more robust than a Mora, but still a pleasant looking, non threatening blade. The leather sheath is a nice bonus too. I love my moras, but i can't help but think of them as a little disposable.

u/fromkentucky · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

It's tempting to go for the big knives, but in my experience, unless I actually needed the extra chopping power specifically from my knife (for instance, because I couldn't spare the weight or room for a good hatchet or folding saw) big knives just weren't worth the extra weight and bulk because they're a lot harder to use for making feather sticks or any fine work that involved small cuts and even the best big knives don't chop as well as a mediocre hatchet. Case in point: Here's a picture of a log after 10 chops with the tiny (1.2lb) Gerber Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet ($35) and the Ontario RTAK II (~$100) which is supposed to be one of THE BEST chopping knives available.

Even when I traded up from the RAT-5 (which was already a big, bulky knife, to the Becker BK7, I used my Mora a LOT more often than the big knife. Now that I have the ESEE 4, I rarely ever touch the Mora anymore.

That being said, some people genuinely do benefit from the big knives but you're not going to know that until you get some experience. If I were to start over I'd probably get a Condor Bushlore, use the crap out of it, learn how to sharpen it and build the experience to know what kind of knife I actually need.

u/optional_downvote · 2 pointsr/knives

If you like kershaw you can get a blur with S30v steel for around 65$ on amazon if you still want a kershaw. I've never been too impresed with them since I find their build quality to be lacking. They seem to have an excessive amount of blade play and use average quality steels in most of their knives. The a premium steel that can hold a razor sharp working edge. The spyderco delica/endura line is also a great knife. They have full flat ground blades that come razor sharp from the factory with absolutlely no blade play. I personally carry a green delica as one of my edc knives. The dragonfly is also great if you want a knife that dissapears on your person. it is a featherweight knife, that cuts and handles like a much larger knife.

If you are looking for a knife that can take an absolutely harsh beating, I would have to reccomend an Ontario RAT 1 or 2 depending on you size preference. They are a bit heavy in hand compared to other knives it size, but perform just as good as any of my spydercos. It is also on the cheaper side at around 25$.

The benchmades are also a good choice, but I would also reccomend the benchmade mini-presidio.

Anyways, I thought I might as well just post some links to them:

S30v Kershaw Blur

Benchmade Mini Presidio

[Benchmade Griptillian] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9BOF0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Q6YQ3PL1NNYW&coliid=I1IO3PSF8569TW)

Benchmade Mini Griptillian (I prefer thumb hole openers, but both griptillians also are offered with combo edges and thumb studs.)

Spyderco Dragonfly

Spyderco Delica

Spyderco Endura

Ontario RAT 1

Ontario RAT 2

u/CorrectionCompulsion · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

You should pick up a few high value knives for the money. Here are a few that are worth way more than their price tag:

Mora Companion - this blade is incredibly useful for camp tasks and bushcraft projects, very strong even though it's not full tang (I've never heard of one breaking).

Ontario RAT Model 1 - This is one of the best folders I've used, at any price. For $26 you won't find a better knife.

Utilitac 2 - This knife comes in a ton of different styles, made by Ontario like the RAT, and of equally high quality. These knives are built like tanks, and can take abuse.

Schrade SCHF9 - Unlike the Mora, this knife is a huge chunk of steel. I doubt you could break it with a hammer to be honest, so if you're tastes run towards the bigger camp knife, this is it.

u/PancakeEater101 · 1 pointr/EDC

This Guy did - Who knows what would have happened if the knife snapped in half

Granted that is very low probability, but you still might need to rely on your knife to save your life. Even if you never need it, an extra $80 to save your life seems like a good deal for me. And thats ignoring the fact you can get a nice Kershaw for around $30

So honestly, I don't see the point in getting the Sanrenmu...

u/willogical · 5 pointsr/Bushcraft

You might consider the Condor Bushlore, especially if he's just getting into bushcraft, or even at an intermediate level. http://www.amazon.com/Condor-Bushlore-4-375-Inch-Walnut-Leather/dp/B002CC6BPM

Edit: I also agree that the Mora Classic is excellent and at the right price point, but I think the Condor Bushlore is also an excellent value and is in a few ways a step-up from the Mora. Its full tang, larger, and has an excellent leather sheath.

u/aarongough · 1 pointr/howto

I use a Lansky sharpener for sharpening my blades: http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376070549&sr=8-1&keywords=lansky

You could alter the filing jig to sharpen the knives too, but it's probably easier and more efficient to get the Lansky sharpener. If you're sharpening knives that have never been sharpened before (like ones you've made) then I recommend going with the diamond Lansky set, as the diamond stones are much faster.

u/dclutter1 · 5 pointsr/EDC

Microstream The clip on mine is different but I think this is the same light. Love it.

Spyderco Tenacious Easily the highest value knife I've ever had/seen. I cut and pry the shit out of stuff with this knife on a daily basis.

u/neuromonkey · 1 pointr/woodworking

You aren't, believe me. About six years ago I decided that I was going to learn to sharpen knives well. Yup. I managed to get a handful of blades passably sharp for routine kitchen work, but not reliably. I got a Lansky sharpening system and that helped to convince me that I am probably mentally deficient. I've made a little progress over the six years, but... only a little.

Keep at it! Eventually you'll be pretty good at it. You'll be really, really old, but... you'll get there. ;)

u/Sparks_MD · 1 pointr/EDC

Sorry guys, I thought this comment would show up but it didn't so here's it again!

Info and such.

Picture one is my work (garrison, not deployed) EDC and picture two is my normal EDC.

  1. IPhone 5 with LifeProof case


  2. [Fisher Space Pen] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E103CY/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687602&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000095K9D&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1RKGZQWYCXZQTRK0TSEH) (This is my third one, last two flew off.)

  3. Just a normal sharpie

  4. Two diffrent types of Rite in the Rain
    notebooks

  5. Gerber Flick Multi-tool and belt carrying case

  6. Southord Jackknife lock-pick set

  7. Kershaw Cryo knife

  8. CREE LED flashlight

  9. Keys with a TEC P-7, a tritium key FOB, and a 2 GB flash drive

  10. ID tags

  11. A very cheap Armitron sports watch

  12. Carmex

  13. A BIC lighter

  14. Standard ear Protection

  15. Standard tri-fold wallet (will upgrade soon)

  16. Oakley Flak Jacket (These were given to me)

  17. Standard issue gloves (do not buy these)

    So I do carry much more stuff with me while I'm working but I'm quick to shed it when I get back to the barracks.

    Hope you enjoyed and I'll be happy to answer any questions about my getup!
u/ElectricLamp · 2 pointsr/knives

They're both in 8cr13mov and people really underestimate them for it. It's actually a very easily maintained steel but watch out for the Clash and its bead blasted finish; it'll rust on you easily. The Freefall is stonewashed so you won't have that problem.

Honestly I'd probably prefer a [kershaw chill](http://www.amazon.ca/Kershaw-3410-Chill-Pocket-Knife/dp/B002IVHQ5Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398139713&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+chill] in that range for its blade geometry. It's mostly flat ground and it will make for noticeably better slicing capability. (even though it is also bead blasted)

Otherwise it'd be good to pony up ten more bucks and get a Rat II

u/cwcoleman · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

Day Packs are abundant. There are dozens that fit the 'hydro port' requirement. It really depends on what other features you need. Most specifically - size. You say 'day pack' slash 'one night pack'. In my experience those are 2 very different bags. A day pack is generally 15-30 liters, depending on how much technical gear you plan to carry (or how cold / snowy it gets). An overnight pack is generally 50-65 liters. I warn against picking an overnight pack based on the number of nights you'll be out. 1 night requires the exact same gear as 10 nights, other than food (which is generally 1 liter per person per day). So if you want a day pack, focus on that. If you want a overnight pack, focus on that. Trying to get 1 that does both jobs well will end up awkward both ways.

u/BarryHalls · 3 pointsr/knives

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335807629&sr=8-1

finish off with

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Super-Sapphire-Polishing-Hone/dp/B000B8IEB8/ref=pd_sim_sg_2

If you find yourself sharpening a lot of different knives you'll want

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Coarse-Diamond-Accessory-Silver/dp/B001KN3OTK/ref=acc_glance_sg_ai_ps_t_3

it moves the steel faster (for changing the edge the first time) and the stone holds up longer.

Long story short, it gives perfect consistency and has the super fine stones for giving that polished razors edge. It makes sharpening anything UNDER 6" a dream.

For knives LARGER than 6" I use

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/sanders/1-inch-x-30-inch-belt-sander-2485.html

with various ceramic belts from

http://www.trugrit.com/belts1.htm

It's also GREAT for doing convex conversions. Doing a flat grind on a concave edge takes a steady hand or a jig.

Practice on wood and scrap steel. You'll RUIN a blade in a HURRY with those coarse belts.

If the blade gets hot it will burn the steel and you will lose it's hardness. Dip it in cool water, dry with a towel, often. The tip is the most delicate part. Only grind for a second or two, then dip again.

u/DemonSanctuary · 1 pointr/knives

re: thumbstuds. That is where I give cold steel a nod, they make theirs removable, so when putting on a clamp style sharpener you can remove them so they do not get in the way.

But I agree with all this. Honestly, as well a great EDC blade for a low price in your budget that will serve you well, is an Ontario Rat II. They can be had for about $30 - $40 and are amazing budget blades. They are not assisted, but the deployment with the thumbstud are amazing. Well worth a try to purchase one.
http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knives-Model-Folding-Knife/dp/B00BBPAOCW

u/novel__ · 5 pointsr/knives

> You sound like you think this is my first knife I have other knives and I like this one also. I don't think I got ripped off. lol it was only 20 bucks and for 20 it is a pretty sturdy well made knife.

-OP

>I've cut down 2 small trees with this knife and went through a whole winter chopping ice from my gutters and shutters. For $20 you will not find as heavy duty a blade as this.

-Comment on this thread

There are several other 20$ knives that are ridiculously great values. And some of them are folders too, meaning the lock mechanism must be constructed right, or they can hurt the user.

Ka Bar Dozier

Byrd Cara Cara 2

If 20$ can give you a well-constructed folder that won't fail on you, 20$ can get you a nice fixed blade with a good heat treat.

Sure it may not have the same edge retention as a Becker or Izula because of the steel used, but keep in mind fixed blades are typically used with more force than folders are. Batoning, chopping off branches, etc, are more reliant on the user's force than the actual sharpness of the blade.

...And it's still a fixed blade. A piece of steel with handles attached. Unlike folders, there's no mechanical parts to fail. This makes it a very strong design in general. Even though it won't have the same fit and finish as a Becker, it will still have more durability than any folder. But you shouldn't be running these things over with 18-wheelers. It's way more than adequate, if you know to respect the thing.

A full tang fixed blade for 20$ is a steal.

u/TwoStepsFromThursday · 3 pointsr/knives

If you want something that's high quality and will last forever, a great option is a Benchmade Saddle Mountain Skinner The S30V steel is uses is great for keeping an edge of a long time, and it's backed by a lifetime warranty. It's also made in the US, which is always nice.

Another great option for very tough, no-frills knives is a Swedish company known as Fallkniven. They make fantastic hunting and survival knives. Their A1 model is their most well-known, but I prefer the smaller F1 series It's a fair bit lighter and easier to carry.

u/mroystacatz · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Here are my personal essentials.


  • Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  • Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  • Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  • Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  • Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  • Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  • Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.

    Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.

    P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.
u/cr0wmium · 1 pointr/knives

I have a Kellam, Helle is going to be my next puuko addition.

Pretty knife! I've found myself admiring my Kellam more often than using it.

Just as a tip, this knife has lasted me amazingly in the outdoors (I mainly do a lot of fishing and camping) and complements my wood-handled Kellam rather nicely for wet environments! Anyways, great gift.

u/Doowstados · 1 pointr/EDC

I really like my Kershaw Cryo. Very inexpensive (<$25 online) and a great size for EDC. The blade is easy to maintain and came from the factory with an excellent edge on it.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1555TI-SpeedSafe-Folding-Knife/dp/B0074FI28Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417308519&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+cryo

It also has an adjustable pocket clip and speed-safe assisted opening which is a nice feature in a relatively inexpensive knife.

u/chodemessiah · 3 pointsr/knives

I'm in IT as well and perform very similar tasks. I use the Spyderco Tenacious for everything. It's easy as hell to sharpen and the flat ground blade takes a wicked sharp edge. It has stainless steel liners, but they're skeletonized so the knife is still pretty light. The G-10 is nicer than the stuff I've got on knives that are well past the hundred dollar price point.

As for draw speed, you can do a bootleg wave using zipties. Here's mine. Best $30 I've ever spent.

u/deckyon · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

Everyone answering in here will give you a different way to go. You need to find what works for you. The biggest thing to think about in field vs home is, how long will you be in the field? If its for a weekend, then personally, I dont even bring a stone with me. I wipe down the blade before sheathing it, and I worry about it when I get home.

Now, I was raised by my dad (hunter) to treat your knives like you treat your guns when it comes to cleaning. When you get home, you do a full inspection, cleaning and sharpening. For the carbon knives, I use gun oil (Remington spray, yellow and green can). Spray it down, clean it up with a cotton towel, if there are spots, then put more oil on and rub (with the grain) it down with medium to light pressure using the RED scrubbie. Not the green, they are too abrasive, and the red ones have anti-rusting compounds. You can do the same for the stainless, you just wont need the scrubbies as often. If you are not going to use your carbon knives for a while (more than a month) then wipe it down with denatured alcohol to remove the oil, then put a coat of turtle wax (from the tub, not the bottle) and leave it sit. Do not store either in their sheathes, especially if the sheath is leather. Condensation is killer.

Then, before you head back out in the woods, do a check of the knife and a good cleaning and coat of oil (wiping excess off). Check for nicks, burs, folds, rusting and treat as necessary. It is really the same as for firearms. You cant clean them too often, and must clean after every use.

If you will be in the woods for an extended period of time, bring some oil and a couple different grit stones to hone while out. I use a Lansky 5-stone kit both at home and throw it in the kit now. Got a great demo and tutorial this past weekend with it, and it really works well with practice.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8IEA4

Treat even your cheap knives like firearms when it comes to maintenance and they will last much longer than expected.

u/TThrowawayaccount56 · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002CC6BPM/ref=pd_aw_lpo_200_tr_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GR55ZR4H7T6DHD4B2NBN
Love this knife, great craftsmanship and just feels nice. Totally worth the 55$. Just keep the blade clean and wipe off any debris (it's best to oil it).

u/ktmrider119z · 7 pointsr/airsoft

No.

But if you want one that just works, the red only Fieldsport on Amazon is great at $20.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3SZEJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-gUdBbBPA0SJ9

Next step up but still budget would be a Bushnell TRS-25. Less glass tint, and all around better quality for $50.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00200E0HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4hUdBbX0PJ5FY


Youll want this riser with either one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TX2BD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RiUdBbFKT6JE1

If you eventually want a quality real steel Optic, look for the Vortex Strikefire, Vortex Crossfire red dot, Vortex SPARC AR, or the Sig Romeo 5. All can be had for about 120 if you shop around. Vortex optics have fantastic warranties.

If you want some magnification, i eecommend the monstrum 3x prism sight. Let it be known though, that the sight adjustments work in reverse.

https://monstrumtactical.com/products/3x-ultra-compact-prism-scope-black?variant=6824042168366

u/TheSharpDoctor · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

Freehand and under $15 the Whetstone Cutlery 400/1000 Grit Whetstone is a nice starting affordable freehand whetstone.

Guided and under $25 the Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener is a nice mini complete package that includes a 220 grid diamond plate for chip repair, a fine 600 grit diamond plate, 1000+ grit ceramic rod and a leather strop with compound.

You can also send the knife back to Kershaw for a free sharpening then just invest in a nice strop with compound to touch up the edge. Done properly you only need to send it back to Kershaw probably once a year if that.

u/Sengura · 2 pointsr/knives

Twitch II is good.

So is the Skyline

But my favorite is still the Tenacious. What an awesome EDC knife that sucker is. The metal may not be the best, but it makes up for it in durability and it's so easy to sharpen. The knife is of excellent quality and for less than 30$. If you want a smaller blade, get the Persistence (I wouldn't, the Tenacious is the perfect size for me).

u/Tyler9400 · 7 pointsr/Bushcraft

Edit: Just realized your looking for an EDC Knife. To split kindling? My post revolves around your first knife to go out into the bush. An EDC knife should just a small folder for when you open those fancy amazon boxes. Don't need a fixed blade knife for EDC purposes, but if your gonna be out in the woods messing around I'd follow what I said.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

​

IMO a Mora companion should be your first knife. They are 10 bucks. The one linked is a carbon steel version, if you are gonna be around water a lot get the stainless steel version. The stainless steel version will rust dull quicker. Edit: Was a typo, it definitely wont rust quicker lol. Get it if you are around water because it WONT rust, but the edge will dull quicker, this is why knowing how to sharpen in the field is important. I mean you can get through a day with a dull knife, but it's never fun.

This won't be the best knife in the world, but it's the best beginners knife, it can do all the basic tasks and work well for $10, so if you smack a rock, chip it somehow or end up messing it up when sharpening you can buy another one. Practice sharpening! This is a big one, you don't want to get a $100 knife and mess up sharpening it - anything is fixable but you don't want to do that with an expensive knife and start taking off too much steel and what not.

I'd recommend a Mora companion, and whatever sharpening method you want. A decent, cheap stone is the Fallkniven DC3. There are better stones - but they require oils (or water) and you have to go through two or three types of stones and all these other things. Not to mention they are heavy and bulky. DC3 is small and you can take it with you.

If someone else wants to go more indepth on other sharpening methods and stones, please do so, I've had the same ones for a few decades and am not up-to-date on the tech.

Also strops, I had a local leatherworking shop make one for me, I've never found good ones online, or good leather to make your own. If you are familiar with good ones, feel free to link them.

u/coozney · 1 pointr/knives

I'm new to sharpening and a friend of mine recommended this sharpener. It got great reviews, but I like to do my research. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this sharpener. Would it be good for a beginner? If not, can you recommend something else? Thanks.

u/b33k3rz · 1 pointr/preppers

Get a Leatherman multi-tool for EDC (Wave is the best all around but the Wingman is a solid alternative if you find the Wave to be too large) and a heavy duty outdoors knife that can be used to baton wood (like the Mod 4 or RAT-5). Get a solid hunk of steel and make sure it's full tang.

Personally I would go with something like a Buck hunting knife . They are a nice compromise between the smaller knives and excessivley heavy bowies.

u/tylerthehun · 1 pointr/everymanshouldknow

If you're looking for a plain and simple, fixed-blade knife, get a Mora. They're cheap as shit, razor sharp, and hold up damn well. Just keep them clean and oiled or they tend to rust.

If you're looking for a multi-tool type knife, go with Leatherman. They're more expensive, and the model I have is discontinued so I can't give you a recommendation, but they've got a version for everyone.

And listen to everyone telling you not to use a knife for self defense. The best tools for self defense are open eyes and fast feet. If you feel like you need something else, there are much better options than a knife.

u/BrynRock · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I use the Lansky guided system and it gives me a good edge. I have the set that comes with 5 grits and it works well. It will take about 30~45 minutes if the knife is completely dull. It will give the knife a near mirror finish but you can finish with a strop and get a good polished edge. The guides work well and make them process very easy. I'll say that I've found it very helpful to mount the clamp in a vise or fasten it to a block wood. The systems are easily find on Amazom. I think I paid about $35.

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JyYzDb6ZYYS6X

u/sanguinesolitude · 2 pointsr/EDC

i like this citizen as a nice but not crazy expensive watch. it's my normal wear watch

griptillian from benchmade is my favorite EDC if you can afford one (not crazy expensive, and you will love it)

inexpensive carry knife i like this kershaw

u/Rgnxsupreme · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Okay awesome. I just bought the Classic Army Skirmish EC-2 and it has a Deans / Small Tamiya connector.

A couple more things:

So does the 2S and 3S mean a larger battery with longer life? And will that fit in my stock?

What is a good and affordable balance charger that you would recommend? I'm just starting out so trying to ball on a budget. I'm an amazon guy so looking at this one

u/JayL1F3 · 1 pointr/knives

The Morakniv Companion seems like a good starting point. Pretty cheap where I'm at ordering from Amazon.

Granted, I have a couple Gerbers. Mostly paraframe folders, and for the price, you're better off with a Chinese Kershaw, like the Oso Sweet

u/Ravenor95 · 3 pointsr/Survival

For general survival/bushcraft purposes (though not for breaking a car window):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004TNWD40/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485034514&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=morakniv&dpPl=1&dpID=31hduVz10IL&ref=plSrch
(Great quality/price ratio from Sweden)

For EDC/general cutting purposes(and gorgeous old-school looks), a small high-quality folding knife from France:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004AMY6GS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485034837&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=opinel+carbon&dpPl=1&dpID=51baQV0eVVL&ref=plSrch

If you want a more "modern" pocket knife that is still affordable, I recommend something from the American masters of Cold Steel like:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U1I875Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
(Gotta give some lovin' to that Aus8A japanese steel and the Scandinavian grind)

I can recommend all three, though I own only the first 2. Have fun and stay sharp!

u/joelav · 11 pointsr/woodworking

another killer set of scales.

Can I make a suggestion? I read below you are using the Sarge kits - which run about 18 bucks. While the scales are awesome, the knife itself - well, it's not good. Garbage pivot, tip down, non-reversible pocket clip, 440C (gross) and an "ambidextrous" thumb stud which doesn't matter because it sould only be carried in the right pocket anyway.

For not a lot more, you can scale a really nice knife. The RAT II is very highly praised and recognized in the knife community and even though it comes with scales already, it's super easy to make scales for

u/Ravensong427 · 3 pointsr/knives

https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knife-Sp-Black-Folding-7Inches/dp/B00BBPAOCW

I own one of these and it's a pretty good knife for EDC. One handed open & close, nice fit in the hand. Only potential drawback would be performance if it gets wet, which i haven't had to worry about yet.

u/__helix__ · 3 pointsr/CampingGear

I'll second the Mora blades. I have a couple like http://www.amazon.com/New-Swedish-Mil-Mora-Knife/dp/B004TNWD40 this one. If you poke around, you should find different colors in the $12-15 range. Very good steel on that blade - used it to field dress a couple deer and was still sharp.

Since space may be at a premium - many butcher shops in grocery stores will sharpen non-serrated blades for free.

I'd skip the flashlight and get a headlamp. The simpler ones without the battery pack on the back side of the head work nicely and double as a hand held light if you need it too.

u/OC4815162342 · 1 pointr/EDC

I typically stick to benchmade but theyre normally $150+. gerber is a good brand, but if your state allows assisted opening you should go for a Kershaw. I carry a Clash and use it almost every day. Its got a flipper with a torsion bar assist, so be careful of state laws. Its a little heavy, but I like that, feels more solid to me. Excellent knife for the price. my other, more expensive knives that I rotate (or will be, in a few days when some of them get delivered) are the Benchmade Griptilian, the Benchmade North Fork and the Benchmade Barrage(assisted opener).

If you're looking for a cheap, rough work knife, get the Kershaw, but if you're looking for an investment and a really high end, go for a BM.

u/500SL · 1 pointr/knives

Quality tools cost a bit more. It will last longer, and give you better service.

Spyderco makes several good EDC choices IMHO. Look at a Tenacious or a Delica to start.

SOG also makes quality knives. I'm partial to the Flash II Tanto, but it comes in several blade styles.

Either way, make sure you get a good sharpening system and learn to keep your knife sharp.

A sharp knife is a safe knife

u/wikkid7798 · 5 pointsr/knives

Kershaw skyline
http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411072014&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+skyline

Kershaw chill
http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-3410-Chill-Pocket-Knife/dp/B002IVHQ5Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411072014&sr=8-2&keywords=kershaw+skyline

Both are great edc knives. Chill is small but tough (not tiny though) perfect if you work in an office.
Skyline is a great overall. My work edc.

Buy 2 of either one, if you manage to break one you have a backup while the factory fixes the other.

u/Hatandboots · 1 pointr/knives

I just got the Lansky Deluxe kit and it worked wonders for me. Got my old Mora to a smooooth 17° finish. I'd recommend it. The kit is decently small and comes with everything you need for any knife.

I'm also pretty new to sharpening, so getting a 3 year old Morakniv back to shaving sharp is a huge success for me :)

u/AllegoryESQ · 1 pointr/CampingandHiking

Ok so I looked a bit and for your budget they have quite a few knifes that fit the bill.
This is the one has great reviews and I personally love the design.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0033H7VI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1397075251&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40
What do you think?

*EDIT- here's a review with some field testing. For this price point it does work http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9EQk4vO94s

u/wparsons · 2 pointsr/knives

In that price range, from lowest to highest price, I found these in a quick search on Amazon:

  • Spyderco Ambitious - 2.25" blade, $26.20
  • Spyderco Tenacious - 3-3/8" blade, $30.13
  • Spyderco Persistence - 2.75" blade, $31.89
  • Spyderco Resilience - 4.25" blade, $42.87

    All of these use pretty much identical materials, and have identical features and quality. So go with whichever you like best.

    The steel used on these is middle of the road (the same as used in your Tremor), but overall quality is outstanding for the price. All around these will outperform and feel nicer than any Kershaws in the same price class, though I have nothing against Kershaw's better knives.
u/NFresh6 · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

I would also recommend a Schrade SCHF9 or another in the Schrade series. They make some great quality knives for great prices. I said I would prefer the SCHF9 because I own it and I like it a lot, but I would also recommend looking at some other Schrades. The SCHF9 is not stainless steel so there's a little more upkeep than one that isn't, but mostly just keeping it dry and clean. Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033H7VI6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/pokerd · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks! It's a TekMat - though I got mine on Amazon for the free shipping. I'm probably going to get the AR-15 one next so I can fit my mouse on there as well.

And nice choice with the XD9SC :D I'm a big fan of the Springfield lineup, and am now considering either an XD-S or 1911 of some variety for my next purchase. That probably won't be for awhile though with my mech KB habit.

u/smellslikepurple233 · 2 pointsr/EDC

For that price range? This
http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tenacious-Handle-Folding-Plain/dp/B001EI7578/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1325149331&sr=8-1
Spyderco Tenacious. 3.375in blade, 8cr13mov steel (chinese aus8, a good value steel) liner lock (easy one hand closing) thumb hole for one hand opening, movable pocket clip for all 4 carry options (lefty righty tip up tip down) (need a torx screwdriver-> go to ACE) G10 handle (good shit. They line nuclear reactor cores with it.) BEST Bang for your buck

u/Pseudolntellectual · 1 pointr/knives

Previously mentioned Kershaw Skyline is a good one, but another one I like is Kershaw Chill. Cheaper steel, but I prefer the look.

Kershaw in general is pretty good for cheap folders.

u/MaximCannon · 2 pointsr/AskBattlestations

Don't have one myself but have heard some people love using these gun cleaning mats as mouse pads, the graphics on them are super cool plus they're big enough to cover under your keyboard and mouse!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036N474S?pc_redir=1407821435&robot_redir=1

u/JoeReal · 2 pointsr/knives

I understand where you're coming from as far as syle is concerned, but I think giving them something they can carry everyday is more meaningful. I suggest a Kershaw Cryo;
I think the 8Cr13MoV steel is the best steel you can get in a knife under $30. I always suggest either a Kershaw or a Spyderco as a budget knife.

u/Eisenstein · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I agree with /u/1Davide here entirely. Do not blow off warnings about messing with unprotected Li-Ion cells.

I have seen them ignite nearby materials merely by having the terminals shorted by a split second contact with a screwdriver blade. If they end up igniting themselves (not hard to do btw), good luck putting out that fire with anything but a wheelbarrow full of sand.

Stick to protected, pre-built packs and chargers from non-shady distributors unless you know what you are doing (or care to learn the hard way).

If you are looking for a cheap but reliable charger for DIYing your own pack, though, I'd recommend this one:

u/r_Slash_Badass · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

My comment was written with most everyday people in mind. They're mostly sharpening bad 440C kitchen knives and don't want to spend a lot of money. Another big thing is that your average person in the kitchen doesn't even know just how sharp a knife can get. The average guy is usually okay with a good working edge. I was recommending the honing rod and the Lansky system because they're inexpensive, easy-to-use, and they last a long time. Plus, most people are never even going to need a Lansky. That's already more advanced than most want to get.

If you have good knives though, everything changes. If you're a knife guy, then yeah absolutely you need to have a more sophisticated sharpening system.

We're both knife guys, so you'll probably agree that it all really depends on which knife you're using.

There are so many factors that go into it.

How thick is the knife?
What's the blade length/shape?
What's the steel?
What's the grind? Convex? Hollow? Full-Flat Grind? Scandi? Sabre?
What's the angle on that grind?
What type of knife is this?
What kind of edge do I want to put on it?

I personally just put a convex edge on most of my knives, so all I really use is a strop and a handful of compounds. For everything else I just use an Apex Edge Pro.

u/desertUsuf · 8 pointsr/CampingandHiking

Mora Companion. The value on these knives is pretty nuts, I keep thinking that prices will eventually go up because you get so much blade for the money. Great carver and slicer due to the scandi edge, and the carbon steel blade it tough and can take light batoning without issue.

Watch a few reviews online, pretty much all raving, and for good reason.

u/Two-Thumbs · 1 pointr/1022

Agreed. I've got a half dozen TRS-25 and they are excellent. You can sometimes pick them up for $50. On an AR, you'll want the high rise mount, but that's a 1/3rd cowitness and a better alternative is to get one from UTG for $10 and use that with the regular TRS-25: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TX2BD4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the 10/22, you don't need the elevated mount. The TRS-25 is perfect on the 10/22.

u/Kromulent · 1 pointr/knives

Well let's not be rash.

If you really can only afford one, it has to hold up. Maybe the fixed blade is already assumed, and it's just a question of comfortable discrete carry.

You could modify a sheath to be an inside-the-waistband, deep-carry type. So long as it was comfortable and safe you'd have it all.

If that won't work than a tough cheap folder is what you want. Maybe an ontario rat?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBPAOCW/ref=sxts_kp_bs_tr_lp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=U8F34&pf_rd_r=RRBAWVQRCT0XYRE36GY0&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00BBPAOCW&pd_rd_w=ZFSOc&pf_rd_i=ontario+rat&pd_rd_r=6e2b1603-7384-4fb7-a8b2-3cb005087db4&ie=UTF8&qid=1539130155&sr=1

u/bearules · 3 pointsr/videos

/r/knives is a great place to ask this kind of stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tenacious-Handle-Folding-Plain/dp/B001EI7578/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425256528&sr=8-1&keywords=spyderco+tenacious

This is a great knife that I EDC and its only $35. Perfect starting knife.

u/ColonelBunkyMustard · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Get a pair of Mora Companions for $14 each and if you find out that you want something more then you can look for something more focused for your type of outdoors use. Most "survival" knives are lumped together in one category that makes it difficult to distinguish what their type design is for. KaBar Becker BK2 is basically a sharpened pry-bar. The thing is practically bomb-proof but its thick blade and obtuse grind means that it won't be very easy to cut with. Esee knives are also tough, and feature more functional grinds and and a great warranty, but 1095 steel they use is still going to be inferior in edge retention and edge stability to premium CPM-3v or Vanadis 4-Extra that you see on stuff like a GSO-4.7 or the ZT-0180. Then you have knives like Falknivens that use high-end stainless laminated steels which are price because the process for laminating is expensive and complicated and provides a stainless blade with some of the impact absorption that normally is attributed to carbon blades while still maintaining a harder edge. The reason I suggest a Mora is that for someone new to the fixed blade game, it's an option that won't break the bank and is also probably the highest value for the price of any fixed blade available. It's the Timex of knives. Not fancy but it works and is easy to replace if you lose or break(which is still pretty unlikely) it.

http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40/ref=pd_sim_468_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31RSOV7Bn4L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0QT33JYXQS3ZD772EAFD

u/RallyMech · 1 pointr/ar15

Check out /r/gunsforsale and /r/gundeals (May your wallet rest in peace). Here's a Bushnell TRS-25 red dot for $49 You will need this riser. Buy that before buying BUIS.

That rifle may or may not be worth $500. MI uppers are usually decent.

For .223/5.56 $0.30 per round is generally a good price for brass case ammo. Walmart and some other stores sell steel case for as low as $0.20/round, quality varies. The best cheap ammo is Wolf Gold, purchased in bulk online. Use www.ammoseek.com to find it.

Keep an eye on Palmetto State Armory's website. They include PMAGs with tons of deals, effectively using them as packing peanuts. Use a prepaid credit card or www.privacy.com for buying from PSA due to ongoing, infrequent, credit card theft.

u/J1024 · 5 pointsr/Multicopter

Why won't they work with the QX7? My QX7 takes a balance lead.... so no, it won't use the barrel connector, but that shouldn't matter.

As far as the charger goes, I'm not sure what that has off hand. For the longest time I've used this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Tenergy-Balance-Charger-Airsoft-Connector/dp/B004FGWY54/ref=sr_1_4

It charges just via the balance plug. Very slow, but never ran into an issue with it charging anything up to 4s.

As mentioned above though, charging at least LiPos can be dangerous. Most people bunker them or just make sure to watch them while they're charging. Joshua Bardwell had a good video about chargers that helped me understand more about charge rates and such.

Good luck!

u/HamwiseVonTossington · 1 pointr/knifeclub

The key to proper sharpening is a consistent angle. Some people can hand sharpen with success, but this requires a ton of time and practice to master. Products like the Lansky Turn Box and Spyderco Sharpmaker both hold the sharpening rods at an angle and it's left up to the user to keep the knife straight while sharpening. Some argue that your sharpener should have a guide system in order to keep a consistent angle. These systems will clamp the blade in place and have a guide for the rods, which for the most part eliminates the variable of the users hand not staying straight. The Lansky 5 Rod sharpener is an entry level guided system that is very reasonably priced IMO and works well. Some pros (not me by any means) insist on using products like the Edge Pro Apex or Wicked Edge systems which have the ability to have near perfect angles. These are both several hundred dollar systems and are way over kill for the casual user IMO. I'd say go for the Lansky 5 Rod, otherwise jump in where your budget allows.