Reddit mentions: The best hunting & fishing books

We found 397 Reddit comments discussing the best hunting & fishing books. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 197 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

5. Practical Pistol Reloaded

Practical Pistol Reloaded
Sentiment score: 2
Number of mentions: 5
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14. Fishing Hawaii Style

Fishing Hawaii Style
Sentiment score: 2
Number of mentions: 3
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15. Fish Like You Mean It

Fish Like You Mean It
Sentiment score: 2
Number of mentions: 14
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17. Strategies for Whitetails

Strategies for Whitetails
Sentiment score: 2
Number of mentions: 3
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20. Fishing for Dummies

Fishing for Dummies
Sentiment score: 1
Number of mentions: 2
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Top Reddit comments about Hunting & Fishing:

u/josebolt · 1 pointr/food

Honestly if you have zero experience I suggest getting one of those how to books.

http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Idiots-Fishing-Basics-Edition/dp/0028638840

http://www.amazon.com/Fishing-Dummies-Peter-Kaminsky-ebook/dp/B004X75OMA

They may seem silly, but they have all the information a beginner would need, like basic equipment information, fishing knots, and species specific info. Being from SF you will more than likely will have more saltwater opportunities than freshwater (I am from CA but not from SF so I am not 100% sure about that). This allows for some interesting opportunities. You go can use a charter service which often provide everything you need (so you are not stuck with a bunch of fishing tackle if this isn't the hobby for you) or you can use one of the many piers in CA. The cool thing about piers is that many of them have bait shops that rent out gear (again no permanent investment on your part) , they also usually do not require a fishing license which is a bonus. A regular fishing license currently runs $47.01.

If you are interested in buying you own gear and going the whole 9 yards there are a few things to keep in mind. One rod and reel set up will not covering everything. Set ups need to correspond with the types of fish you targeting. Things can get very expensive too. Rods and reels can easy cost $100s. However I believe that the cheap gear of today is generally much better than than it was 20 years ago. A casual fisherman can get good use out of 40/50 dollar setups. Now if I were starting out I would get something like a 6 1/2 to 7 foot medium action spinning rod. I like Berkley Cherrywood rods, they usually run just over 20 buck they seem to be available at any old walmart. For a reel I would get either a 2500 or 4000 Shimano. You can spend as little as $20 bucks to several $100 on Shimanos. The $20 to $40 ones should serve you just fine. Fill the spool with 8 to 10 lb test line and you got a budget light tackle set up. I should note that going after steelheads is not what I would consider casual fishing.

Now that set up I mention would serve you fine for casual fishing for trout, bass, even eating size catfish, but I had another purpose in mind. Out here on the west coast we have surf perch which offer year round fishing. The best part is that it is probably some of the easiest fishing there is. They hold on just about every beach and they do not require fancy techniques. Sandy beaches usually lack the kind of structure that would cause a fisherman to break off, so re tying your hooks becomes less of an issue. Its is probably a good place to learn how to cast as there is plenty of room for error. Small soft plastics are the preferred "bait" used for surf perch which is another bonus because it will not stink or be messing like natural bait. The "technique" is nothing more than casting out and reeling in slowly. You will have to learn how to set a hook, but using very sharp hooks can help with that as the fish can hook themselves. The only bad thing is the salt water and sand. Do you best to keep you reel out of both and rinse of the entire reel in fresh water when you get home. I love this kind of surf fishing because it is so simple. In the summer it can be fun just get in the water to your knees and have a nice day fishing. If you catch nothing then you still spent your day at the beach.

Sorry if I "talked your ear off". I really like fishing. Feel free to come over to r/fishing.

u/Quick_Chowder · 2 pointsr/flyfishing

Hey just want to follow up since I'm not sure if anyone else has.

Before I dive into trout streams I'm gonna make a major recommendation. MSP probably has some of the best smallmouth and muskie water access in the world. The Mississippi and St Croix rivers are both incredible fisheries. There are also a number of lakes in the cities areas that are killers for largemouth and again muskie/pike. There's 3 lakes in particular that don't allow motor'ed boats and have pretty accessible shore fishing (Isles, Calhoun, Harriet, sorry to everyone else, but I don't think it's a secret anymore). I have seen 50"+ fish get pulled from them, and have had my my follows on these lakes. Side note, for sure gonna catch ones of those fuckers this year. If you don't have an 8wt, or a 10/11 for muskie, I'd highly recommend one. Primary reason being that most great trout streams (with easy access) will be 1-2 hours outside of the cities.

Second recommendation, get a Wisconsin fishing license. If you're a first time buyer they offer a discount. They know what they're doing, because guarantee you'll be back again next year. The Kinnickinnic is right over the border in River Falls WI and has great access and pretty good fishing. There is a metric fuck ton of water to cover though, but that's the closest.

Right in the cities area is the Vermillion, but access can be kind of funky, and it's not the most wade-able river so you end up somewhat limited to what water you can really fish. Down south a little further in MN is Whitewater, which has some pretty sizeable fish, but definitely sees more pressure. Farther south is the Root River and all it's branches (like 120 river miles worth). Sees a lot less pressure but is a solid 2 hour drive.

Pretty much all of MN and WI allow access to water at bridges. Many land owners have provided easement, but for the ones that don't keep your feet wet and you're in the clear.

If you're looking for some reading, I just picked up this book, which is a little outdated in terms of stocking and access information, but does a great job covering the various hatches and forage, and includes some strategies to try.

Lastly, both MN and WI have started a C&R "pre-season" so-to-speak. So basically the only time streams are closed is mid-October to the first Saturday in January. Whitewater is open year round even! Definitely check the specific water you're looking to fish though, dates and seasons vary from river to river.

Hope this helps and good luck! Check out the Great Waters Fly Expo in a couple months (http://greatwatersflyexpo.com/). Good place to connect with more locals and TU has a big presence there.

Feel free to reach out with any questions!

u/stm78 · 3 pointsr/flyfishing

Welcome to a lifelong addiction! I agree with a lot of people on here that buying a good book will help you out a lot. Likewise, spending some time casting before you hit the water will make for a lot less frustration. A good book will help you know how to cast right and what it feels like. I don't own it myself, but I've heard good things personally about this book:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1592288189

Now as to your equipment, whatever works best for you is what you should fish with, regardless of how cheap it is. That being said, there is a big difference between a professionally designed rod and a generic fly rod. If you can possibly afford to step it up a bit in your price range, you will set yourself up with equipment that will easily keep you both happy and challenged for 5-10 years. Here's my recommendation (just a recommendation, nothing more, nothing less):

Temple Fork Outfitters make professionally designed rods that, like most major brands, have a lifetime guarantee and you can always return it (or a piece of it) for a repair. They are able to offer a seriously nice rod for less because the manufacturing is done in China. The company and design is in the US. Basically, it's a great rod for a lot less because of where it's made. http://www.templeforkflyrods.com/

Ross reels are like the GMC of fly reels. Nothing fancy, but super dependable and you get everything you need to do the job. My first reel was a Ross (anyone remember the Cimarron?) and I keep it around because it's every bit as usable as when I bought it 12 years ago. They're seriously good reels.
http://www.rossreels.com/

As to the length, I strongly suggest something near a 9'. It gives you enough flex to "feel" a backcast so that you can establish a good cast early on. This way, you won't have to break bad habits later in your life. The standard weight for a beginner is 5. However, don't feel intimidated by a 3 or 4. If you're fishing for trout, these are all acceptable.

This was a bit longer than I expected, but I hope it is useful. PM if you have any questions that I can help with.

EDIT: Sorry, one last thing!

The less fished the water, the more likely you are to be successful on it. Spend a bit of time looking around your area on google maps or topos and find water that may be smaller, but is further from a road. Any time water is visible from a road, you can almost guarantee it has been fished earlier in the day before you. Finding somewhere remote will give you some positive feedback on fishing and keep you from getting frustrated early on.

Ok, I'll shut up now.

u/dahuii22 · 3 pointsr/flyfishing

I can't speak for the CZN, but I've fished the Cortland Competition 10'6" 3wt for the past two years and love it. Your added length is crucial for reaching spots while still tight lining (and staying in direct contact with your fly(s) at all times as best you can), and also tippet protection (looking at you Syndicate w your glorious rods).

As /u/pwigglez mentioned, also very important in the game is your leader set up. Done properly, this will play a huge role in your presentation and success.
(Hint-your reel and fly line (outside of euro-specific lines, which are awesome) don't mean much in this game)

And IMHO, if you're serious about going after some successful nymphing, Dynamic Nymphing by George Daniels is an absolute must read. I'm prob on my 4th time through (currently re-reading it) and should be your starting point for your approach and rig set up.

Best of luck and keep asking questions--there are a ton of awesome nymphing guys on here that I've learned a ton from on this sub!

u/bruin06 · 2 pointsr/liberalgunowners

I was just checking into this subreddit to see if anything had ever been posted about whether folks here do IPDA/IPSC, and I find that something was just posted 18 hours ago. That's great, but I'm really puzzled why you posted two completely unrelated topics in the same post? And with a totally non-descriptive title?

I checked out my local IDPA meet's website and they basically said that before you compete you should (1) come and observe, and (2) have attended a training at something like Front Sight Academy.

A 2-day course at Front Sight is $1,000, so there is no way I am doing that, sorry. I'm sure the course is great, but there is nothing they can teach me that is worth $500/day. Anyone know some reputable yet cheaper alternatives?

I am currently waiting for this book to arrive in the mail. Several types of competition interest me in the long run...3-gun, IDPA/IPSC, bullseye, silhouette. Even some long-range rifle competitions (although I'm really a newbie to that type of shooting). But the first type of competition I'd like to get into, say in the next year or two, is definitely defensive pistol (IDPA/IPSC).

I've read a few marksmanship books, I feel that I am progressing to the point that in the near future I will have sufficient basic marksmanship skills to be ready to move from indoor pistol ranges, and shooting at non-moving paper targets from a non-moving position, to shooting at moving targets and/or shooting on the move. That said, I've only been shooting my own gun for a little over a year, so I'm pretty new to all of this. In his book The Perfect Pistol Shot , Albert H. League III states that the goal of a shooter who has the fundamentals of marksmanship down should be

  • Three shots in one ragged hole at 7 yards
  • Three shots within 4 inches at 25 yards
  • Consistent torso hits on a full-size silhouette at 100 yards

    I do all my shooting within 20 yards...usually within 10. I can't say that I always get three shots in one ragged hole at 7 yards, but when I really focus, I can get pretty darn close to that. But that's with about 10 seconds between shots, so even if that accuracy were good enough for IPSC/IDPA (which it probably isn't...), the speed would have to improve by an unbelievable amount.

    Would be interested to hear the feedback of anyone who has competed.
u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/nova

If you haven't fished with a fly rod before then going with a guide is a good idea, especially if you've got a buddy who wants to go and you can split the cost. It is not cheap but the guide will save you the headache of trying to find a place to get in and out of the water, can give you enough ideas to make your next few trips, and will save you the frustration of going out hoping to have a good time and not having any idea what the hell you are doing.

Especially fishing these little spring creeks you may wind up having to roll cast a lot (otherwise you will spend a lot of time trying to get your precious new flies out of the tree branches behind you), and that is one of those things that is a lot easier to do when you can watch somebody who knows what he or she is doing.

Finally, when I first started fishing with flies, I made the mistake of setting out on my own seeking out beautiful pristine new england creeks and ponds with native brook trout, and I didn't catch a god damned thing. Later I made a few outings with my uncle on a little pond full of bluegill. On the still water I could actually see what my casts were doing, and I was fishing little dries like red quills, so I got to have the whole experience of presenting the fly and seeing the fish come up and take it on top. I think it is much more gratifying to bring in a few really dopey fish with hapless technique than to go out and fail to catch any trout. Also a 1/2lb bluegill on a 3wt fly rod feels about like catching a 10lb striper.

After a few of those trips I was having fun again, I made some guided trips out west and didn't make an ass of myself.

Here are my two books I like:

http://www.amazon.com/Flyfishers-Guide-Virginia-Including-Virginias/dp/1932098399/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334973191&sr=8-1


and

http://www.amazon.com/Simplified-Fly-Fishing-S-Slaymaker/dp/0811722791/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1334973229&sr=1-2

good luck and report back!

u/larrisonw · 3 pointsr/flyfishing

Where do you live? CT?


Fly fishing has a pretty serious learning curve, from my experience. I assume being avid fisherman, you are pretty comfortable working a lure such as a Rapala? The very fist type of fly I would suggest you try is streamers. It's very straight forward and you can work the streamer like a standard lure. Buy some wooly buggers in various colors and stick to them for a while.


Secondly, catching fish in february isn't easy. If we're simply discussing chance of success, I would suggest you focus your fishing efforts in April/May/June when the water temps help fish activity.


After catching some things on buggers, I would try nymphing and dry flies. A great book on nymphing is Dynamic Nymphing by George Daniel


Lastly, if you are still struggling, find someone to bring you out and work with you. I'm too far from CT to assist, but you can hire a guide or maybe someone on this board lives up there and would take you out and help.


Best of luck! Would love to see an update to this when you finally do land some fish!

u/fgdgafdf2 · 3 pointsr/Fishing

I don't have any recommenation on guides, but I was in Yellowstone in August of 2017. I had never fly fished before and had 1.5 months before the trip to teach myself.

Some pointers in case you want to venture out on your own and fish.

  • Any spot 5-10+ minutes walk away from parking or roads = drastic reduction in crowd. You'll be there during one of the busiest months.

  • This book was super helpful: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1599211424/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Figure out where you will be in the park, buy the appropriate flies, profit.

  • Practice cast for sure. You don't need to learn any crazy teqniques. Just be able to make an acurate 30-40 foot cast. No hauling. Check out some Orvis casting lesson videos on YouTube.

  • GO TO SLOUGH CREEK! I don't know if your an avid/hardcore angler or outdoorsman, but even if you just appreciate the beauty of nature away from roads, crowds, the modern world, etc, this place is magical.

    A few pictures from my day there:
    https://imgur.com/a/3Xte1?

    Happy to share more details if you are interested.
u/BarkingLeopard · 1 pointr/guns

I wouldn't say that it is something to be taken lightly (you are making cartridges, after all, and if you make a mistake you could lose a body part or worse), but it's not rocket science, and I would argue that if you take it slowly, educate yourself, don't get distracted while reloading, and don't push the boundaries of the stated load data it is fairly safe, much like shooting and driving a car are fairly safe if you are smart about them.


As for reloading manuals... I am the wrong person to ask. I've done some shotgun reloading in my apartment and will be buying a turret press to load .357 Magnum and .38 Special rounds shortly. I've been reading the ABCs of Reloading and Reloading for Handgunners in preparation for my coming foray into handgun reloading, and they have been helpful. I'll also be getting manuals from the major powder manufacturers before I begin, as well as probably the Lyman and/or Hornady manuals as well. I'm sure others will chime in with their favorite books, and if not, check out /r/reloading.


I'll probably be getting a Lee Turret Press to start. Given that I already have a good scale for shotshell reloading (which I can do for $3/box, loading for low cost), which saves me $70, I figure I can get into handgun reloading for another $200 or less, plus the cost of consumables, and load light .357s for a ~$6-7 per 50 with plated bullets, vs ~$20 a box for commercially loaded .357 ammo and $14 or so for cheap commercially made .38 Special ammo.

u/checkmate_ggwp · 4 pointsr/CCW

Give this book a read: http://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Pistol-Shot-Albert-League/dp/1610045718

I've heard .40s are snappy but maybe it's your grip not the gun?

As for more comfortable guns. My G19 is not the most comfortable gun but I'm most accurate with it of my handguns. I have a slim Walther PPS M2 and that feels great in the hand, I'm just learning how to shoot tiny guns well. I've always felt the M&P9c is a super comfortable gun to hold.

Good luck in your quest for the perfect carry gun.

u/aca0125 · 4 pointsr/flyfishing

I have a book called Trout Streams of Wisconsin and Minnesota that I look into occasionally, but you can also look on the DNR website for streams that hold trout.

When nymphing my presentation is almost always the same -- get the fly to the bottom and have a drag-free drift. I'm hoping to do a video on beginner nymphing tactics within the next couple weeks too.

When fish are rising I'll try to catch a fly in my hat to better identify it and it's size. Insect hatches change throughout the season. A drag free drift is probably even more important when dry fly fishing.

I have a blog that I update after pretty much every outing. I discuss stream conditions, hatches, flies used, etc. It's also beneficial to visit your local fly shop to get good intel on the area streams.

Hope this helps!

u/matthew_ditul · 2 pointsr/guns

I'm only a C-class scrub, so take that with a grain of salt. Many of the things I'm pointing out are things I'm trying to improve on myself.

  • Reloads are pretty slow. Spend more time in dry-fire there.

  • Keep the gun up high with both hands when you're moving between positions that are close. It will help you get on the sights as soon as you move into position.

  • Go downrange with the scorers to see all your hits, every stage!

  • Bit of a nitpick, but they're not "hostages" in USPSA, as you said in your commentary.

  • POPPERS. I'm sure you don't need me to tell you that.

    Overall, good stuff. The stages look fun, you've got lots of video for your own analysis, and you're clearly analyzing yourself and looking for feedback.

    If you want to continue with USPSA (and you should!) I highly recommend Ben Stoeger's Practical Pistol Reloaded. It is the best book on pistol shooting fundamentals and USPSA shooting out there.
u/fishnogeek · 2 pointsr/flyfishing

Packing light + fly fishing....hah, that's a fine joke.

Two fly boxes = either a newbie, a true veteran, or somebody with waaaay more discipline than I have.

Yeah, I see those E12 caddis-ish things now. Those will probably work, but you'll probably want some EHCs too. It's a ridiculously productive pattern.

Thought of one other thing: you may want some hoppers. You could grease up those muddlers and fool some fish, but they won't float for long. Hucking big hoppers along a grassy shoreline is one of summer's finest pleasures in the Western US.

Nymphing....yup, that's a big subject. Yes, it can be VERY productive, particularly on the crowded tailwaters (aka tailraces, the stretches of water beneath a dam with controlled flows; many of them function like spring creeks in terms of producing bugs - and therefore large quantities of large fish). It also gets very technical, even down to specialized rods and lines, plus a variety of rigs and techniques and, of course, fly patterns.

There are multiple styles of nymphing ranging from simple to uber-techy. Here's a quick-and-dirty intro that'll probably start a war...

  • Hopper-dropper: simply dropping a weighted nymph on a short line below a floating fly (not always a hopper). It's simple, but it can also be extremely fun and effective - particularly in small streams and creeks that don't get hammered by so many people. Not really 'nymphing' per se, but the dropper is usually called a nymph, and it works.

  • Indicator Nymphing: broadly-speaking, any rig that includes a strike indicator. Some people totally geek out on it; other people disdain it. These groups can generally be differentiated by their speech patterns: the people who approve call it "indicator nymphing", whereas the folks who look down on them call it "bobber fishing". Personally, I think the folks who do nothing else might be missing the broader forest for the sake of a few interesting trees, but the people who think it's simple and unsophisticated probably haven't taken it seriously enough to appreciate the intricacies.

  • Euro/Czech/Straightline/Shortline Nymphing: many of us use these terms almost interchangeably as shorthand for indicator-less nymphing, whether upstream or downstream. The folks who take these things seriously probably won't appreciate having all the distinct techniques lumped together, but tough cookies.

  • Swinging: this covers the downstream swinging of wet flies, soft hackles, and streamers - so long as you ignore St. Galloup's streamer methods.

    Broadly speaking, the indicator techniques are probably better for deeper water and long-line situations, and the shorter line flavours can be deadly effective in shallower rivers. Streamer fishing can be effective in more situations than most people think, and the hopper-dropper thing is mostly for pocket water.

    From there...well, just read Dynamic Nymphing and choose how down this slippery slope you want to slide.

    Yes, you need to start tying. And when you do, kiss your minimalistic habits good-bye....
u/Oberoni · 9 pointsr/reloading

I would start with the Lyman 49th Edition and The ABCs of Reloading manuals. They give you a detailed break down of the reloading process and talk about different types of equipment. After you've read the manuals I recommend really thinking about if you are a good fit for reloading. While reloading can be a very rewarding hobby, it is a very serious hobby. You can end up severely hurt or even killed if you make a mistake. Being able to concentrate for long periods and be very exacting in the details are important. Not trying to scare you off, just reminding you that bullets are little explosions going off in your hands/near your face. Mistakes can turn a little explosion into a big one.

I also made a post about equipment here, but it isn't a replacement for a good manual.

Why are you interested in reloading? Looking to save money? Increase accuracy? Just because it looks interesting? Either way I recommend you read this post on the economics of reloading.

What are you looking to reload? Rifle? Pistol? Shotgun? What are your time, space, and budget constraints? Knowing this we can help you pick equipment to fit your needs. Overall the basics are:

Manual
Scale
Calipers
Press
Dies(Sizing/Decap, Expanding, Seating)
Shell Plate
and probably a chamfer/deburr tool

There are different levels of each of these so knowing what your requirements are will help determine which level you should be looking at.

u/OMW · 1 pointr/reloading

9 mm isn't really cost effective to reload, but it is a lot more forgiving than 7.62x54r to learn on and you can basically get started reloading for 9mm with just a $30 hand press, a set of dies, and some basic components. Maybe start simple and then move on to rifle cartridges as skills and budget grow? I learned on .44 mag and branched out from there. I think straight wall revolver cartridges are the ideal "beginner" cartridge, but you already own a 9mm so that's probably the next best thing.

Highly recommend reading this book if nothing else. It'll help you figure out what you need to get started and covers most of the basic essentials.

u/bigtuna32j · 1 pointr/flyfishing

Basically a larger fly that you strip (fly fishing you don't reel line in you strip it in with your hands, basically the reel's only used in fighting fish and holding your line,) typically some kind of minnow pattern. A lot of people would say you don't need an 8 wt for streamer fishing for bass but its a whole hell of a lot easier to cast streamers with an 8wt. Plus I never target panfish, I find panfish fishing to be pretty boring, when I bass fish, I mainly just huck streamers at largemouths. Also with an 8wt you can fish for larger species like pike. Good luck! Oh I would pick up Fly Fishers Guide to Virginia There is one for pretty much every state and the book outlines anything you need to know for locating fisheries for all species across your state. So when the time comes that you want to hunt some trout down you can find rivers in your area. Also stop into a fly shop, not Orvis or anything but a more mom and pop type shop, they will always offer information on where to fish freely and happily.

u/schwing_it · 2 pointsr/CCW

I'm reading this as you know how to fire rifles well but are new to pistols and are having trouble. If you used iron sights on rifles I'm assuming you have sight alignment, sight picture, and trigger pull fundamentals. That leaves the biggest culprit your handgun grip, recoil anticipation, and stance. I highly recommend getting a laser insert such as the LaserLyte Laser Trainer which will help you work on the fundamentals without the recoil doing dry fire. I recommend the book [navy seal shooting](Navy SEAL Shooting https://www.amazon.com/dp/194378700X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LP2zzbTG326QX) by Chris Sajnog. It's got some good info. He also has a youtube channel with some pretty good info. For pistol grip I found Jerry Miculek's video helpful.

One tip my wife taught me on trigger control when adjusting to recoil is focus on saying the word "squeeeeeeeeeezzzzeee" in your mind when you are ready to fire, slowly adding pressure to the trigger until the shot happens. It avoids the anticipation because you are almost surprised by the shot when it finally goes off.

In person lessons are good if you can get them. If you don't have someone to help you try setting up a video of you shooting so you can see what your stance and movement looks like.

One last note, when I took my California fire arms training they made a big deal about not shooting water because of the danger of ricochet it poses. I have no experience with it myself, but just thought I'd pass it along.

u/Itsalrightwithme · 11 pointsr/AskHistorians

A reply to /u/Dereliction

Great question!

Maltese falcons were already very famous, in part due to the treatise on falconry written by Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor, among which titles is King of Sicily, at a time when Malta was a fief of the Kingdom of Sicily. So, Maltese falcons had long been very desirable, and given the popularity of falconry among the royals of Europe at the time, to be gifted a Maltese falcon is a sign of honor.

Even today you can order a copy of this book, "The Art of Falconry", although you may have to spell out the author's name as "Frederick Second of Hohenstaufen."

Finally, Charles V didn't "give" Malta to the Knights, he rented it to them, under feudal contract in his capacity as ruler of Sicily. This is why the text of the grant specified what should happen in case of succession of the grand master, who should assign the bishop of Malta (the viceroy of Sicily, not the knights), how Malta should not engage in activities against Sicily, etc.

Perhaps most telling is that there are conditions for returning Malta to Sicily if/when the Knights were able to re-conquer Rhodes their original home, or if it decides itself to relocate elsewhere. So Charles expected the situation to improve such that the knights could relocate to a more advanced position, instead it ended up being a long-term home for them.

u/JoustingZebra · 5 pointsr/guns

A good way to increase your knowledge base is reading. Here are some books I have read and would recommend.

A. Navy Seal Shooting by Chris Sajnog.

Probably the best book to learn about the fundamentals. Chris covers the mental mastery of shooting better than any other book I am aware of.

B. In The Gravest Extreme by Massad Ayoob.

If you own guns for self defense I would recommend this book. While this was written in the 1980's it is still relevant today. It is the definitive work on deadly use of force law in the United States.

C. Combat Shooting (Or any other book) by Massad Ayoob

Ayoob has established himself as perhaps the authority on defensive handgun use through his extensive use of case studies.

D. The Book of Two Guns by Tiger Mckee.

This was written primarily revolving around the AR-15 and 1911. However, It's principles are applicable to any fighting rifle or handgun.

u/codfos · 1 pointr/COfishing

There are two books I highly recommend to you. The first being The Little Red Book of Fly Fishing by Kirk Deeter and Charlie Myers. I keep it in my tackle box. This book was invaluable to my self development as a fly thrower.

Next I recommend Colorado's Best Fly Fishing. This book gives you need to know information on the most popular places to catch fish. It might not have the hidden and secret spots but it has gotten me to places with some great trout.

With that said, the only time I ever caught fish on Clear Creek was when I was 12 using a gold blue fox lure in September along I-70 just south of Idaho Springs. That doesn't mean they aren't there, I just haven't tried on a fly.

u/foghorn5950 · 1 pointr/guns

My standard response has been to suggest a bolt action 22, but really a 10/22 might be the better option. Its accurate and will give you the ability to practice your marksmanship for cheap, but will also let you go all "Rambo" when you just want to put rounds downrange (which happens to the best of us). They have a new takedown version which fits nicely in a backpack and is still accurate as anything, might be something to look into.

As for resources, not to toot my own horn or anything...

(Or shoot me a PM and I'll just send you a PDF fo' free)

u/TubesBestNoob · 2 pointsr/austinguns

You need to read some books on the subject. This one is my favorite. I advise you read it before attempting to load your first round.

The lee anniversary kit is a good low-cost single stage kit. You may be able to find them on sale for $100 if you are patient. You will also need a set of ~$30 dies for any caliber you wish to load.

Also check out /r/reloading once you get started. We like to help keep new reloaders safe.

u/anahola808 · 5 pointsr/kauai

I'd recommend getting a copy of Fishing Hawaii Style.. You should be able to get a copy at Walmart.

The book was originally published 34 years ago, but still exceedingly relevant. It's the first in a series of three volumes. Fascinating reading if you're into fishing.

If you live here, it's a good reference. If you're a visitor, it's a good souvenir to take home.

You don't need much gear to get started. I'd suggest starting with whipping or dunking.

u/lonewolf-chicago · 1 pointr/deerhunting

Similar history with me as well. I'm a hunter by nature, so whenever I get in the woods, it is the most refreshing thing ever.

Have you ever seen a book that had 100% 5/5 reviews? This one does. I bought this book several years ago and it is by far the best, most insightful book about deer and deer hunting in existence.

https://www.amazon.com/Strategies-Whitetails-Charles-J-Alsheimer/dp/0896893316

Start with this book and you will know as much or more than a person that has hunted for 10 years.

Whether you hunt this year or next - get the book.

Ok... Now that you have that covered, get out in the woods (after hunting season) and look for rubs and scrapes.. Its also fun to go shed hunting (searching for dropped antlers) in March or so.

Do that and you've got yourself a great start.

u/down_view · 1 pointr/flyfishing

I have Trout and Their Food by Dave Whitlock and Colorado's Best Fly Fishing by Landon Mayer. Both books are nearly brand new. I received a duplicate as a gift and I re-bought the Whitlock book at last year's Fly Fishing Show in Winston-Salem to have Dave sign a copy.

I'm looking to trade pretty much anything fly fishing related--tying materials or tools, other books, etc.

Thanks for lookin'!

u/HeadspaceA10 · 2 pointsr/reloading

Ordinarily I wouldn't recommend a progressive as a first kit, since there's quite a bit of reloading that I prefer to do on a single stage: Fine-tuning rifle loads for accuracy being one of them. Starting out on a single stage gives you the opportunity to see in detail what each die is actually doing and how to adjust them. But I'm sure you can still learn on a LnL AP. I use a Dillon, but in the end it's the same general idea.

This is what I always recommend to people who start out reloading:

  1. Get this book and read it cover to cover.
  2. Interested in reloading for semiautomatic rifles? Understand that you will need to be extra careful about what kind of primers you buy, and about the headspace of your cartridges. Read On Reloading for Gas Guns. Still interested? Buy the RCBS precision mic or similar type of cartridge headspace gauge, a wilson gauge, and start slowly and deliberately. Most of what I reload is for semiautomatic rifle.
  3. Buy a reloading manual. If you ended up getting one with your press, buy another reloading manual from a different manufacturer. Reloading is an "engineering and science" activity. You don't want to trust data from just one source. You want different, corroborating sets of data that came out of different testing facilities.

    If you take the metallic reloading class, a lot of that stuff will be covered. But if you learn how to reload in the benchrest environment and then start reloading for some kind of autoloading rifle like an AR15, G3, M1A/M14, M1 etc then you are playing with fire unless you approach it from a different angle.

u/Iwasborninafactory_ · 1 pointr/SurfFishing

No, I'm not from there, but it is literally the home of surf fishing. Almost any surf fishing book out there is going to say, "This is how we do it in Long Island, and it might work where you fish too."

Here's two books I enjoyed:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0811732835

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZHTRK2

Any of John Skinner's videos. I would assume that his books are great as well, and I plan on buy one some day:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=john+skinner+surf

u/g00n24 · 7 pointsr/USPSA

Buy these books and do the stuff inside of them. These are the only sources you will need, and if you put the time and effort in you will become a good shooter.



Practical Pistol Reloaded




Dry Fire Reloaded




Skills and Drills Reloaded



Breakthrough Marksmanship

It would be best to read them in that order. They are all short and to the point.

You could also become a member at Practical Shooting Training Group, it is about $25/month and up, but there is great information there as well.

u/8492_berkut · 1 pointr/reloading

I'd say it's a perfectly serviceable set if you're just getting into the handloading game. What it comes down to is what you're hoping to achieve by handloading, and buying equipment that supports that need.

Personal opinion time: I'd steer clear of using the factory crimp die. If you have your dies set up properly, you'll never need to use it. It can be used to coerce out of spec handloads back into shape if you've messed them up, but don't expect to see any repeatable results in accuracy after using it.

The Hornady and Sierra reloading handbooks are the two I go to most often, with the Lyman following close behind. I would highly recommend you get a copy of the The ABCs of Reloading by C. Rodney James and read that cover to cover just to see if there's any tidbits of info that you might not already know. It's a worthwhile read.

EDIT: I was corrected by /u/flange2016 on how the Lee FCD works on rifles. Please see his reply to me below.

u/jrgrizz · 2 pointsr/flyfishing

So, I travel to NW Arkansas for work quite a bit and just got into fly fishing recently. There's a great fly shop in Fayetteville called McLellan's and they pointed me to the Beaver Lake tail waters. I also bought this book off them and I would definitely recommend it. Hope this helps!

u/Merad · 1 pointr/guns

The FAQ on /r/reloading has good info. I'd also get The ABCs of Reloading and read it through before buying any equipment.

I just got started a few weeks ago loading for .38 Special and it's a surprising amount of fun. I'm already planning to expand to include 9mm and .223.

u/abpho · 2 pointsr/flyfishing

I think the best instructional books for a beginner are either the Orvis Fly-Fishing Guide or the LL Bean Ultimate Book of Fly-Fishing. For fun reads, you can't go wrong with any of John Gierach's books. Trout Bum would be a good starting point.

u/mrpoopsalot · 2 pointsr/SurfFishing

This is a good book that i started with. I found it dealt a lot with trying to get the "big" catches, bluefish, red drum, and sharks. You will have a lot of variety to catch from the surf in your area. You could def pull in some nice flounder on your 7' rod. I agree that theres nothing better than talking to someone at a local bait shop. Try to go on a weekday when they arent too busy and they will help a ton. They usually have books that they can direct you to as well.

u/roadkill6 · 2 pointsr/Firearms

I'll shill a bit for a fellow Redditor and suggest Nick Leghorn's book "Getting Started with Firearms in the United States". I've been shooting for a little over 10 years now I have a copy that I loan to people who are interested in getting into shooting/guns. It's really a great primer on the subject.

u/amazon-converter-bot · 1 pointr/FreeEBOOKS

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u/Swordsmanus · 2 pointsr/dgu

I've done conceal carry for almost 10 years and tried a lot of different things. Here are my recommendations:

Get yourself a Shield or Glock 43. They're both solid stock pistols and the overall most versatile concealed carry pistols in terms of holsters, accessories, and trigger/sight upgrades. Get a good pocket or IWB holster for it. If you want to carry IWB, get a proper gun belt. I do both and now lean toward pocket carry, as it's the most comfortable and most versatile for any given wardrobe. You will simply carry more days of your life if you have a pocket setup available.

Once you get a holster, practice the draw without any ammo every day until you accumulate 300-500 repetitions. Start slow to get your form down. Use videos from top competitive shooters on draw stroke technique [1], [2] to get an idea of the fundamentals. Also see Ben Stoeger's Dry Fire Training and Practical Pistol: Reloaded for more on core shooting skill. Check out the entire Tactical Preschool series for a primer on tactics and mindset.

Whenever you get budget for it, get some training. You'll want to look for someone with a Master or Grand Master classification in USPSA for core shooting skill and a former SWAT or military instructor for tactics and mindset. If you can find someone with both, great, but it's fine to go to different, specialized trainers.

u/theGRZA · 4 pointsr/Hawaii

Check out the books Fishing Hawaii Style. I think there are four in the series. Start there and then try to find someone who fishes regularly and hang out with them. Chat up the fishermen you see and offer them a beer or a bowl. You should know how to tie your own lines and you should have your own basic gear before asking for help. Good luck.

u/Tacklebill · 2 pointsr/flyfishing

I was just there last week and had some decent fishing. While I can't speak to the patterns specifically, I can say from my limited experience, try to avoid crowds as much as possible. That stretch of river through the meadow right next to the road. Looks beautiful, right? Well every other idiot with a fly rod all summer thought the same thing and fished the living daylights out of that section. I found that even walking 1/2 mile away from the road the fishing was better than the obvious spots. If I had the time I would do some serious back country hiking to some underfished stretches of the Yellowstone itself. Or hike up the Lamar upstream from the confluence of Soda Butte creek. If you haven't bought the book, buy the book and be sure to stop in a [Park's Fly Shop] (http://www.parksflyshop.com/index.html) in Gardiner, MT mere yards from the North Entrance. These guys literally wrote said book, and put me on fish both times I went in for advice last week. Good luck.

u/I922sParkCir · 9 pointsr/guns

This is my first reloading press, and it’s setup for 9mm.

Here’s what I bought:

  • Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Progressive Press

  • Hornady Custom Grade New Dimension Nitride 3-Die Set 9mm Luger

  • Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Progressive Press Shellplate #8 (30 Luger, 38 Super, 9mm Luger)

  • RCBS Lock-Out Die

  • Frankford Arsenal Reloading Scale

  • Frankford Arsenal Electronic Caliper 6" Stainless Steel

  • Hornady Primer Turning Tray

  • Frankford Arsenal Impact Bullet Puller

  • Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-Ez Case Tumbler

  • Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner

  • Shell Sorter Brass Sorter 9mm Luger, 40 Smith & Wesson, 45 ACP 3 Bowl Set

    And this is what I’m loading:

    9mm Luger

  • Bullet: 124gr Montana Gold Bullet CMJ

  • Powder: 3.8gr Titegroup (working up to 4.0 grains)

  • Winchester Small Pistol Primers

  • Mixed Brass

  • OAL: 1.135-1.140"

    I fired my first 25 round last Saturday. They were soft recoiling, and from my novice reloader’s perspective, indistinguishable from 115 Grain Federal Champion I was comparing them to. I didn’t notice any smoke, and I had zero issues with my M&P9mm FS. Right after I got home from the range I loaded 300 more.

    All in all, I love the press and haven’t had any major issues with any of the equipment I purchased. The DVD that came with the press was excellent and made setup simple. The only issues I had came from using the large primer tube with small primers (inconsistent priming), using the rifle metering insert (gave me inconsistent powder throws), and static giving me sticky powder (grounding the press seems to have fixed that).

    Taking it slow, looking at every step, and confirming that I am moving in the right direction has made this pretty easy and so far successful.

    Edit: Here's my cost breakdown.

    Edit2: The reason I felt comfortable going this route is I did my homework, and I check my powder, and over all length constantly (every time for my first 100 cartridges or so, and now about every 10th round). Going the progressive route first take tons of concentration, and you need to be in a zero distraction environment. You need to triple check everything, makes some rounds, and then check everything again. You have to be aware that if you mess up, you will hurt yourself and destroy expensive equipment.

    I started /r/Reloading over a year ago to learn about reloading. I've read tons online, watched many video on the subject, and read a couple of books. Before you start reloading, make sure you know exactly what you are doing and make sure you are doing every step correctly.
u/misanthralope · 2 pointsr/flyfishing

Yes! Check out Dave Hughes' book Reading Trout Waters or a similar book/resource about how to read trout waters.

If you know where the fish will be holding, you'll have a much better idea of how to approach fly fishing and you'll increase your hookup rate.

u/wheelfoot · 2 pointsr/flyfishing

George Daniel is the master. I was fortunate to take a class with him a few years ago. His book Dynamic Nymphing is probably the best book on the subject.

u/feebie · 4 pointsr/IWantToLearn

Read more about falconry before going into this.

Seriously, becoming a falconer is more work than people think. You can't just buy a falcon and wing it, nor can you take one training class and expect to be ready to fly one let alone own one.

Here are some things you need to know about falcons:

  • they are the fastest flying bird in the world, with a top recorded speed of 242miles/hr.
  • they are extremely sensitive to temperature, stress. Say you have a bird, and he overheats in the summer. He will become very sick, so you try everything you can to cool him down. You are successful, and his core temperature is back to normal. Your bird dies anyway, because despite everything you do to help, it's the stress of the whole experience that will kill him. Because of this danger, taking care of a Falcon is a crucial responsibility that is nothing like having a pet dog or cat.
  • they can easily contract a deadly foot fungus called bumblefoot. You must clean their feet once a day to avoid this. Believe me, cleaning a falcon's foot is not a walk in the park. Expect to have puncture wounds on your hands all the time. If you find a tiny red spot on their feet and confirm that it is the start of bumblefoot? You need to isolate the bird immediately. Clean everything in its cage, throw out its perch, throw out the bedding, gravel, their food. You basically need to start over from scratch. It is very expensive. If your bird's bumblefoot gets as extreme as the picture in the wikipedia article I linked to, prepare for losing your bird. The guinea pig in the photo might not die from it, but a falcon most certainly will.

    Falcons are not pets like other birds (parrots, budgies, etc). They will not warm up to you easily. It takes weeks of perseverance and trust-training to even get to the point where they will perch comfortably on your arm. They are birds of prey and you need to respect that. They will hunt, they will kill, and this is the purpose of falconry. You will learn from the falcon how to hunt, not the other way around. Small animals are at risk, and if your falcon attacks one, it will be your responsibility.

    Though this book is about 800 years old, it is one of the most complete and best books out there on the subject. http://www.amazon.ca/Art-Falconry-Frederick-II-Hohenstaufen/dp/0804703744



u/limited_vocabulary · 3 pointsr/reloading

The ABCs of Reloading is great. I happen to like the Lee manual and use it in conjunction with manufacturer websites when I am developing loads.

u/ReelJV · 2 pointsr/Fishing

I learned a lot from this: http://www.amazon.com/Reading-Trout-Water-Dave-Hughes/dp/081173644X/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458838109&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=reading+terout+waters

"Reading Trout Water" by Dave Hughes.

Not sure if you are a trout fisherman, but I thought it was filled with great info.

u/SamsquamtchHunter · 2 pointsr/reloading

Well then heres a great place to start on your own - ABC's of Reloading

u/sn972 · 3 pointsr/flyfishing

If you're in the St. Louis area, the Meramec river is where it's at. A great book that you might look into is the Flyfisher's Guide to Missouri and Arkansas it has a lot of great detail broken into zones within Missouri.

u/jim_okc · 3 pointsr/Hunting

You are potentially impacting far more than the distance you're able to see. There are entire books devoted to managing hunting land. I'd read a couple before doing anything.

Here's a good one:

https://www.amazon.com/Strategies-Whitetails-Charles-J-Alsheimer/dp/0896893316

u/D_O_O_P_6 · 7 pointsr/troutfishing

Learn to read water. It's the most critical, fundamental skill in trout fishing. If you don't know how to find trout, you won't catch them. My favorite book on the topic; there is also tons of solid free material online. https://www.amazon.com/Reading-Trout-Water-Dave-Hughes/dp/081173644X

u/cjd3 · 2 pointsr/reloading

Buy Mr. Hookhands Book ABC's of Reloading. Best book out there for anyone who reloads. Your press will come with the 9th or 10th Hornady book too.

u/vvelox · 2 pointsr/guns

As some one already suggest The Art of the Rifle, I will suggest another Jeff Cooper book, To Ride, Shoot Straight, And Speak The Truth.

Also Shooting To Live by W. E. Fairbairn and E. A. Sykes is also a interesting read.

EDIT: Also if you are interested in reloading, start with The ABCs of Reloading.

u/rhadamanthos12 · 6 pointsr/guns

The ABCs of reloading is a good place to start, or you can buy a load book and it will usually cover the basics of reloading. I believe all the reloading books run about $20-30

Here is an link to a copy of the ABCs of reloading on amazon, it is $16.58

http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/1440213968/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372064847&sr=8-1&keywords=ABCs+of+reloading

u/zod201 · 2 pointsr/reloading

you'll need a powder measure, scale, dies, shell holder, some callipers, a bullet puller, and consumables of course. Not necessary but reloading manuals and the The ABCs of reloading Personally I'd get the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit that comes with most everything you need, and upgrade as you see fit.

u/DragonCenturion · 6 pointsr/reloading

Another good read is The ABC's of Reloading

u/AlwaysDeadAlwaysLive · 6 pointsr/reloading

I learned everything via youtube and reading The ABC's of Reloading.

https://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/1440213968

Iraqveteran8888 had some good videos on reloading that helped me out a lot. https://www.youtube.com/user/Iraqveteran8888

u/GeneUnit90 · 2 pointsr/M1Rifles

This book is good for getting all the info you'll need on how to not kill yourself and figure out what you'll need. No loading data really, get a lyman's manual for that. This is more of a beginner's guide. http://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/1440213968/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418410032&sr=8-1&keywords=the+abc%27s+of+reloading&pebp=1418410025785

u/The_MadChemist · 8 pointsr/reloading

Grab yourself a copy of the ABC's of Reloading (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1440213968/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a reloading manual. I like my Lyman 50th (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HH08L1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Looking at two pages in Lyman shows that .308 needs large rifle primers while .223 needs small rifle primers.

I really can't recommend the ABCs book enough. The author lost his hands in an accident, so he's committed to safety, haha. Reading through that will, at the very least, let you know what you don't know.

u/lyric911 · 1 pointr/reloading

This one. Not a reloading manual in the sense of being a bunch of load data, but is an entire book just about the process. It's fairly cheap on Amazon as well.

u/ironshoe · 4 pointsr/reloading

Start with a reloading manual.

Something like this

u/theguy56 · 8 pointsr/guns

/r/reloading is going to be your go to source for specific questions. Like you I've wanted to get into reloading, and before I make any purchases I will finish reading this:
http://amzn.com/1440213968

u/anglrNick · 2 pointsr/flyfishing

It seriously takes a lot of tying practice to make them not bulky - Use smaller thread, less thread wraps and all together, less material.

You'll see your patterns get simpler and simpler, tapers getting better, taking less time, etc.

If you're in the mood for some deep research and stuff, get George Daniels "Dynamic Nymphing" book - It's not all about that euro, it covers everything. Especially weight.

u/Wapiti-eater · 2 pointsr/reloading

Do yourself a favor and borrow/buy a copy of this book.

Or, if you feel you're enough up to speed to start, take a visit to this site and do some shopping. See what you're willing to spend or do without.

As a starter, this setup/kit is a popular and common setup for what you're describing. Except for the 12ga stuff - that'd take a shotshell press and unless you do a LOT of that, may not be worth the expense/hassle. Up to you.

As for your question about die-setting: dunno but nothing about a "pressroom", so can't say for sure - but it could be.

edit: added 3rd link

u/e4excellence · 1 pointr/guns

This will answer all of your questions:

  • You will not save money by reloading.

  • Please read the /r/reloading FAQ in it's entirety!

  • Read The ABCs of Reloading from cover to cover.

  • Return to /r/reloading with any questions.
u/EuroNymphGuy · 1 pointr/flyfishing

I've got all sorts, as I tie my own. I do use a 11' 3-wt., but you can "high stick" nymph with any length of rod. I know there have been posts in the past on Euro-nymphing, and so, just search.

If you really want to know more, this book by George Daniel is a classic. He also has some videos on YouTube.

u/DustyAyres · 1 pointr/reloading

The ABCs of Reloading is the book I recommend for people who are new to reloading. No load data, but a lot of info on many different aspects of the process.

u/LocalAmazonBot · -3 pointsr/reloading

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/1440213968/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394210797&sr=8-1&keywords=ABC%27s+of+Reloading

u/jonboticus · 2 pointsr/Hunting

I haven't read this book yet, but this question was asked sometime ago, and this book received several recommendations.

https://www.amazon.com/Strategies-Whitetails-Charles-J-Alsheimer/dp/0896893316

u/CMFETCU · 2 pointsr/reloading

First,

Read this book cover to cover:
https://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/1440213968

Then read it again.

Once you have done that, you should understand the basics of working up loads and what to look for in much more detail than you will get in a post from here.

u/solyanik · 2 pointsr/reloading

NO!

The 45 headspaces on the case mouth, so it hardly needs any crimping, just a bit to roll back the expanding that was done for the bullet.

These rounds no longer have a case mouth, so they will fall right through into the chamber. Which means that some of the case can get pinched in the throat, which may lead to overpressure.

Before doing anything else, get a good book on reloading, for example, this: http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/1440213968 - and read it before proceeding any further.

u/EgglestonMunitions · 1 pointr/guns

Yep, depending on how hot you load them and the quality of the brass. Check for signs of case fatigue like cracking, splitting, worn out primer pockets, etc.

I'd recommend the book The ABC's of Reloading, there is a ton of information on how to find signs of failing brass with photos of each type of warning sign:
http://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/1440213968/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419913730&sr=8-1&keywords=abcs+of+reloading

u/OGIVE · 7 pointsr/reloading

/am I missing a step

Yes. You are missing the step of buying the ABC's of reloading and reading it twice.

Making wild guesses and fumbling your way through the reloading process is a good way to ruin your gun and important body parts.

u/deedude · 16 pointsr/reloading

The first thing you're going to need is a good reference on the reloading process in general. The ABCs of Reloading is a very nice one, and it'll walk you through the basic steps of reloading.

You're then going to need your equipment. The Lee Challenger Kit comes with 90% of the equipment you'll need. Add some dies, a brass length gauge to complement the cutter included in the challenger kit, some calipers to measure... everything and lastly a bullet puller for the inevitable mistakes.

That should do it for equipment. You'll also need a load data book to tell you which combination of bullet and powder you need. The one by Hornady has a specific section about 7.62x54r.

Before you pick out your loads you'll want to slug your barrel so you know how wide of a bullet to use. Depending on your model and the level of wear in the bore, it should slug somewhere around .310 for Russian/soviet stuff and around .308 for old Finns. Make sure you know what that magic number is! a .308 in a .310 or larger bore will result in terrible accuracy. The opposite will probably result in a catastrophic kaboom.

Do I still have you? Good! Lastly you'll need bullets, brass, powder and primers.

Brass comes first. you can not re-use the milsurp brass available on the market the cases are made of steel instead of brass and aren't compatible with a reloading press. Also, they're primed with berdan primers, which, for all intents and purposes, can not be removed. I suggest getting a few boxes of Privi-Partisan commercial ammo and shooting it, then saving the cases. You can buy just brass casings, but they're very difficult to find.

Bullets:

You're probably going to want to shoot full metal jacket bullets. Just use the ones listed in your load manual with the proper diameter and you should be fine.

Powder:

I use H4895 personally. Again, look in your loading manual and do not exceed the amounts listed there. Powders are not interchangeable.

Primers:

I use CCI's large rifle primers. I can't remember if primers are specified in the loading manual or not but if you use the right kind and the right power level (magnum vs non-magnum) you should be fine.

That about covers equipment. If you want a rundown of the basic procedure I can write that up later today.

u/SDKMMC · 2 pointsr/longrange

I have that exact kit. I would recommend buying the stuff separately, though. The scale is finicky at best. I struggled with it for a year and finally replaced it in December. Head over to /r/reloading and read the FAQ. There's a ton of good information.

The ABCs of Reloading is regarded as THE beginner's guide. You'll also need a reloading manual. I'd recommend Lyman's 49th as a starter.

For dies, I'd get the Lee Ultimate Die set for 308. It'll come with everything you'll need to reload for semi auto and bolt guns. The Lee Factory Crimp die and Collet Neck Sizing die are second to only $150+ die sets.

If you'd like me to build you a reloading setup with links, let me know.