Reddit mentions: The best hunting & shooting accessories

We found 767 Reddit comments discussing the best hunting & shooting accessories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 317 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

🎓 Reddit experts on hunting & shooting accessories

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where hunting & shooting accessories are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Hunting & Shooting Accessories:

u/rasiahs · 7 pointsr/canadaguns


  • Personally I would recommend either a Remington 700 over the 783. There's nothing wrong with the 783, but the 700's fit, finish as well as the overall quality is just superior and I'm a firm believer in the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, especially with firearms. If you buy the 783, my bet is that as you get a little more serious about shooting, you'll end up buying a 700.

  • With all that said, if you're not hell bent on buying a Remington, I personally would go with a Tikka T3 (there are many, many models). Overall it's about the same as a Remington 700 in terms of quality, but the bolt action is just silky smooth and the trigger pull is wonderful. I'm biased because I'm a bit of a Tikka fan, so take my advice with a grain of salt.

  • In regards to the .308 calibre, again I'm a bit biased because my rifle is in .308 but regardless, I think .308 is the way to go. It's easily found, and comes in a variety of weight from (approximately) 120gr to 200gr so you have a choice of choosing a lighter bullet for smaller game or a heavier bullet for larger game.

  • To pass the time while your PAL/RPAL is being processed, I strongly suggest buying high quality safety equipment You don't have to break the bank, but don't skimp. Apart from that I'd say buy a good soft case, and later down the road you can buy a hard case (my personal favourite is the Pelican 1750). Here's a little list....

  • Ear protection: Howard Leight Impact Sport and Howard Leight earplugs (Personally I use both-- you only get one pair of ears!)

  • Eye protection: Smith Aegis Arc (DS Tactical is a great company to deal with)

  • Hard case: Pelican 1750 (Production Case is a nice Canadian company with prices way better than anywhere else and great customer service)

  • Bipod: Harris Engineering (widely considered the best bang for your buck product-- I use the 9-13 inch because I'm a bit taller, but most people like the 6-9)

  • Soft case: Cabela's drag bag-- great product at a great price.

  • Torque wrench: VERY important in my opinion, as I see way too many people over-torquing their gear (i.e. scope mount screws) and messing things up. Wheeler Torque Wrench-- this is what I use. It's reasonably priced and I use it all the time when I'm working on my rifle. I know plenty of people say they're not necessary, but they'll save you from major headaches in the future.

  • Bonus: When you buy your scope, DO THIS to level it. I've tried all kinds of methods, but this by far the best (assuming your rifle is levelled first). It's so simple, but so effective.

    Anyway, I hope this helps. I'll check back in a little bit (studying for finals right now) if I think of anything else.
u/L8sho · 3 pointsr/Hunting

I'm adding to what Pedro said above, because it's spot on.

For a beginner, definitely start with a curved tip knife. You don't want to go overboard while skinning and drop or puncture the guts at the wrong time, and you definitely don't want to accidentally cut a tendon in the legs that the deer is hanging on. You can get a nice "deer kick" in the face, due to the laws of gravity.

I've cleaned hundreds of whitetail in my life, and taught dozens of new hunters. My father taught many times more than me. Accidentally cutting the tendon when skinning around the legs is the biggest rookie mistake I see. The last guy that I taught (this last season) did exactly that, even after I told him not to no less than 3 times beforehand.

I'd recommend a knife something like this one for a cheap start. They probably have one similar, if not identical in every Walmart in your area

As for cutting the feet off just before separating the shoulders, I have a few tricks. One is to use a cordless reciprocating saw. You can cut the feet off in a couple of seconds, and you can also split the pelvis slightly quicker than you can sometimes do it with the knife. Use a wood blade with large teeth, rather than a metal blade with small teeth. It always seemed backwards to me, due to the hardness of bone, but I promise you it will work better. The saw is also invaluable for cutting skull or spine depending on how you want to harvest antlers.

Another way to cut off the feet is to use a large pair of bolt cutters, or a large pair of landscape "lopping" shears. They will both cut right on through the bone.

I have also had success with these. Once people get over the drama or hilarity, they generally see that it works well. This allows you to pull the last bit colon\rectum out of the deer before you start cleaning, allowing you to keep your meat clean. If you wait until you are "into" the animal, everything is so slick that it's hard to pull out cleanly by hand sometimes. This keeps the turds off your meat.

A good gut bucket is a must. As you figure things out, you will learn to take the animal apart in a way that allows you to drop everything in the bucket as you go. I have used everything from large storage totes, to galvanized trash cans. I think I like the galvanized steel trash cans the best, because they are taller, but they do tip over easier if you haul off the guts in the back of a truck. I use the firm edge of the trashcan like a saw horse when I am cutting the front feet off.

Obviously, your work area also makes a big difference. We run a small family hunting operation where we might clean 8 or 10 deer in a row on a decent day. We have a purpose built shed for cleaning. You don't have to have a dedicated building, but there's a few key things that help. These are a cheap hand-cranked boat winch for raising the gambrel. This makes it easy to adjust the height of the gambrel to fit the deer and your comfort zone. Also, it seems obvious, but one of the worst things is trying to skin one in shitty light. Most of the time it doesn't matter, but if you are skinning for a mount, you'd better be able to see. Running water is definitely a key element. Nothing sucks worse than getting a fatty deer that fouls all of your knives before you are done skinning. Being able to wash right there is a major luxury.

Otherwise, there are several videos on youtube that I have been pointing people to, to give them a refresher when I am not around to help. Just search a bit. They are not hard to find.

When you get good, you can clean one casually in about 10 minutes. This doesn't include boning out the quarters.

Sorry for the wall of text, but this is something that I am passionate about, having spent so much of my life doing it.

u/Zahalia · 1 pointr/BurningMan

I hadn't heard of it until a burner friend insisted that I'd love the experience. I couldn't go with him that year but having never travelled overseas I resolved that this was going to be the first adventure.

Between the camp and forums and website and email exchanges, it was information overload for a noob. The support of our burner mate and others at information nights was indispensable. Highly recommend; wish I'd participated more.

Coming from Australia, we were scared of being unprepared. We spent way too much time and money and fretting in what became a Walmart tour of America. Three trolleys of alcohol seemed like a good idea at the time?!

Thankfully we were able to donate our excesses to the camp for future use, otherwise I would have felt very wasteful and contrary to the values of the event.

The fact that I had to buy so much stuff made me feel guilty but I've got my camping setup perfect now. One of my most useful purchases was one of these hobo tools:
I've used it a lot since getting home too. Makes you think about all the stuff at home and how little you really need it.

When people ask me about Burning Man I don't tell them about the art or the partying, I kinda worry that they'll think it's a big piss-up and not contribute to the event. Besides, the most culturally shocking thing for me was people's attitude to the land - holy shit, people said thank you to one another for picking up garbage! That's cool.

I agree with the people who BM was an emotional rollercoaster. It brought out a lot of hurt between my partner and I, and a lot of travelling tension amongst friends. I felt the most alone I've ever been, and the most loved. Goddamn, did I meet some beautiful strangers. :)

Go with an open mind, and don't expect to see the same things or meet a particular kind of person.. be them, be the person you've always wanted to meet.

Everything at BM is there because of amazing, gorgeous, loving, talented people who make that fucking desert into a city and if you give to BM, you'll get so much more out of the experience.

u/zxj4k3xz · 4 pointsr/airsoft
  1. Depends on your experience. If you're new to teching, getting something good off the bat is my recommendation. If you want a nice middle ground, get an ICS. Good internals out of the box, and split gearbox makes it easy to work on.

  2. Flat-hop or r-hop for range and consistency. R-hop is better, but more difficult/time consuming, so might be worth getting it professionally done.

  3. A good mask or goggles that don't fog are a must. A Dye I4 or Dye I5 are best if you want a mask, and the Pyramex I-force are very nice for goggles. For a lower face mask, if you're using goggles, the One Tigris mask is very nice.

    Mid cap vs hi cap is really just preference. Mid caps are more realistic, don't make any noise, and don't need to be wound. Hi caps are easier to load and hold a lot more ammo.

    UTG makes some good optics. I have their Magnifier and short dot, and their red dot is pretty popular as well. If you want cheap, the Field Sport red dot is supposed to be pretty solid. Bushnell and Primary Arms are on the higher end of micro red dots, at least for airsoft. I have the Primary Arms and it's real nice.
u/sirJ69 · 3 pointsr/reloading

So this review on Amazon is what my buying guide will consist of. My apologies for formatting, I am on mobile.

I'm new to reloading, but I shoot a lot so instead of doing what every beginner should and buy a single stage press I saved up a little and got the AP press due to the fact I knew I would use it a lot. But after it came I quickly realized it was far more technical than I expected. I found out there were a lot of parts I still needed and a lot more money that still needed to be spent. I was fine with it bet I knew I would have to save up for a little bit to get it all. But after about 100 hours of reloading YouTube videos and four months I was able to actually start reloading. Wishing I had a guide right off the bat to tell me what I need and why I ended up making one for any other new beginner. So here it is.

Disclaimer: Do not follow my advice blindly, do your research on each piece of equipment. The prices I have stated are not set in stone, they were what I spent. I would advise you to shop around to get the best deals
What you still need:

--Hornady Lock N Load Auto-Progressive Reloading Press
Notes: Does not have to be this press

--Hornady Lock N Load Ap & Projector Shell Plate
Notes: Each shell plate is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct plate for the caliber you are reloading. Here is the guide

--Hornady Shell Holder
Notes: Each shell holder is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct holder for the caliber you are reloading. Although RCBS makes a similar looking holder, it will NOT fit in the Hornady setup. Here is the guide

--Reloading Dies
Notes: All reloading dies from all companies are universal to each other's presses. So you don't have to stick to Hornadys dies (I do because I like them)

--Digital Scale
Notes: Digital scales are a little more expensive bet worth it for the time you save

--Digital Caliper
Notes: Digital calipers are convenient for speed but if money is tight you can go traditional

--Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube
Notes: Used when you put the press together and clean all the parts

--Hornady One Shot Spray Case Lube
Notes: This or any case lube is an absolute need or your rounds will get stuck in the die. This one is cool because you don't have to wipe it off after you deprime and resize so if you have an AP bench like mine you can just keep going.

--Case Trimmer
Notes: This will trim the case down to size. Needed because after firing the case expands

--Cartridge Reloading Guide
Notes: Tells you the specifics of each round. There is a different manual for each projectile. So if you use Hornady bullets you will use their guide, RCBS you you'd use theirs, etc.
What you need to clean the brass:

--Case Tumbler
Used to remove the carbon from the rounds. I advise not to deprime before use because the media will get stuck in the primer hole.

--Tumbling Media
The corn cob media is a little more fine grain and less likely to get stuck

--Metal Polish
You would put this in the tumbler with the rounds to give them a nice polish
What I would recommend:

--Bullet Puller
Used when you mess up a round, it pulls the projectile out

--Primer Turning Plate
used to make sure the primers are set the right way before you put them in the primer tube

--Universal Ammo Reloading Tray
Used to hold your rounds for inspection, and helps with precision loading powder

--Case Prep Tool
This is used after depriming and trimming to make sure all the holes are clean and free of debris

--Stuck Case Remover
Used in case you get a round stuck in the die

--Hornady Micrometer Rifle Lock N Load Powder Measure
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for rifle calibers

--Hornady Micrometer Pistol Lock N Load Powder Measure
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for pistol calibers

--Powder Cop
Used to make sure you don't put more powder in than you should

--Hornady Lock N Load Die Bushing 10 Pack
Would recommend if you are reloading multiple calibers, it makes change over much faster.

What you need for precision loading:

--Hornady Lock N Load Ammo Concentricity Gauge
Only needed for precision reloading

--Powder Funnel
Used for more of an exact measurement

--Hornady Microjust Seating Stem
Used to get an exact seating depth with the projectile
I hope this helps! I will be making some tutorial videos soon and will post a link here.

u/eadsm · 2 pointsr/DIY

Any relation to Dane? JK. My brother and I made a gourd banjo last year. Your kit looks pretty straightforward. The only special tools we needed were a reamer and peg shaper, but I guess you won't. I don't think having removable glue is any advantage. If you break a piece, you can remove it with wood cutting tools. One tip on finishing though, apparently TRU-OIL is a popular finish for banjos. I used it for the first time on that project and I love it. Having worked with many wood finishes, it's now one of my favorites for ease of application, appearance, durability and ease of repair of scuffs and scratches. It's got linseed oil in it, but it actually builds up a clear coating like varnish after successive coats. I reccomend it highly. That or maybe Minwax wipe on poly. Shellac is probably the traditional finish, but if you haven't worked with it before it can be tricky to get good looking results.

Gourd banjo.


Wipe on poly. With any of those finishes, use #0000 steel wool between coats to get it glass smooth.

u/bcphotog · 2 pointsr/ar15

> I'm looking for a good cleaning kit and set of tools for this gun.

For a starter kit, i'd recommend something like this setup:

  • Otis Cleaning Kit
  • 6" Q-Tips - Great for the hard to reach spots a regular short Q-Tip can't reach.
  • TekMat - Only cleaning mat brand i'll go with, durable, and solid for the price.
  • CLP - Whatever you prefer, everyone has something they like/prefer. For now, i've been using RandCLP to clean my guns for the last year, and some ALG Go-Juice as my lube.
  • Brushes - I don't use these as often as some do, most use them for stuff like scrubbing their BCG's. I only clean my AR's after a high round count, so i use mine maybe once a month when i clean my regular phosphate BCG's.
  • Shop Towels - I use the shit out of these. After shooting suppressed i gave up on being real anal-retentive about cleaning, so i just wipe down parts (BCG, uppers, CH, etc) with a shop towel and re-lube where needed. I only do a detailed cleaning maybe 1-2 a year.
  • AR Tool - Despite Tapco stuff usually being Chinese junk, their AR tool is pretty tip-top, i've had it for about 3.5 years now and used it a lot, it's held up wonderfully.

    I use a kit i put together myself for cleaning my handguns, rifles, shotgun, etc, for cleaning. My guns get cleaned differently, which gun it is dictates how it'll get clean and how often.
u/lvl20dm · 5 pointsr/fountainpens

Yes, as Auto said, check out the resources on this sub. They are great. Also, this community is great. Very helpful.

I started with a Pilot Metropolitan. I went with medium nib because I had heard Japanese nibs run smaller than western (Japanese medium is more like a European fine). Here's Goulet pens list of Starter Pens. I think any of these would be great...

For paper, I use Rhodia. Moleskine is OUT (I used that previously, with ballpoint).

Here's actually cut and paste from a response I just wrote on another thread...

Fountain pens are pretty easy to clean, and trying out all the different inks is my favorite part.

The Goulet Pen Company has ink samples, which are perfect for acquiring a MASSIVE collection of inks to try. Maybe start with the sample packages they have already grouped together (linked).

If you pick up ink from Goulet (or anywhere), don't forget to also order ink syringes. I'm paying this bit of advice forward... when I (recently) got obsessed with fountain pens/inks, someone on Reddit told me this info and I'm glad they did!!

EDIT: By the way, I store my inks in a shotshell box. I don't own a shotgun, but man these are the perfect size for 25 ink samples! ...again, thanks goes to some other Redditer. ...I even think a reviewer on Amazon mentioned ink samples in their review, so I know I'm not the only one! I also mark the tops of mine with a color and symbol to quickly ID them/narrow down what I'm looking for.

u/Molotnumber1 · 1 pointr/longrange

Ohh boy. You surely opened Pandora's box for me with this choice of yours. CZ or Tikka... both are amazing rifles in my experience (I want a T3x Varmint in .223, and eventually re-barrel my Tikka Xtac in 7mm-08) and will serve you well for whatever you plan on doing.


As a first rifle, I would say go with a .22 LR. Why? Because you can buy 500 round bricks for $35 or less which will last you hours and hours of shooting/training getting used to how things are. Also figure out what type of rest or bipod setup you'll use. Harris bipod and Wiebad rear bag helps me out.


I started at 50 yards with my CZ 455 Varmint, but have shot at 100 yards and depending on the ammo the rifle is pretty darn accurate. If I do my part I can get around 1 MOA or slightly more at 100 yards, but it all depends on the ammo you use.


When I bought my 455 Varmint Tikka did not have their .22 LR out, but whichever rifle you would choose will be amazing.


You can also consider a .223 bolt gun in the future to get more recoil / range, but I would save that for later after you put a few rounds downrange.


As a first rifle I don't think it is the best to go with a .308 or similar due to ammo cost, recoil, and learning the basics. Recently a guy came to the range I frequent with a Rem. 700 .308 and said it was his first rifle. It didn't help that his scope wasn't placed correctly (too far forward making it unable to utilize his 3-9x optic at higher power), and the fact he only brought around 40 rounds of ammo didn't help either. The recoil was pretty substantial on that thing, he had no rear bag or rest, just a cheap $30 bipod, and he was experiencing scope issues at higher power.

u/OMGorilla · 2 pointsr/ar15

It's already anodized? Casey Birchwood Aluminum Black works great for small scuffs and scratches left by the jig or whatever. It won't, however, be able to blacken massive blank spots like the inside of the FCG area. I was surprised to learn that when I swabbed the inside of one and it came out looking horrendous. Absolutely awful looking.

Don't know why, but it worked really really well for the small exterior scratches that my jig plates left on it.

Past that, rattle can works fine in my experience. I specifically recommend Krylon NOW series Wrought Iron Flat Black (21211). Out of the handful of paints I've used, that dries well and color matches almost identically to all my upper receivers. But on raw aluminum, it will chip right off. Not entirely, but I've got some bare spots on the edges of my magwell and around my trigger/firing pin.

Amazon link to the birchwood casey

Again, that will only work on already anodized parts. You can't use it to anodize a blank part.

Their perma-blue works surprisingly well on steel, which I used to restore my grandpa's Astra 400 (because I didn't have the time or resources to set up nitre-bluing as it was a Christmas gift.

u/Bongolian_Horde · 13 pointsr/gundeals

I use a lee turret press, and that, with a turret, die set, primer and powder drop thingies cost a little over $200.

You will need measuring devices like calipers, a scale and case gauges. That could be $50 or a lot more depending on scale quality. I use a $30 digital one, but I calibrate it everytime I use it. Powder charges, overall length measurements, and headspace length on the brass case are very important.

You will need case prep tools, especially for bottleneck rifle brass. I got this guy to just do it all. $170
You can get trimmers, chamfer bits, and those things that attach to drills, there are tabletop hand trimmers, other electric trimmers, but at the end of the day, the frankford thing is just quick and easy. Trimming rifle brass is easily the worst part of the whole process.

A tumbler and tumble media will clean up all your fired brass, dry vibratory ones work fine and are cheaper. Mine, with media was about $50

Then come random things like reloading trays, case lube, cartridge cases, and more meticulous measurement things like chamber gauges, concentricity gauges, and more. Outside of lube and cases for loaded rounds, it's not really necessary. Plastic 9mm ammo trays from factory ammo makes for great 223 reloading trays. $50 will get you lube and cases.

Then you need powder, primers and bullets. Primers are usually $30-$40/1,000, Hornady 55gr .224" bullets are about $90-$100/1,000, and powder is about $22-$30/lb, or less in bulk, or from pull down suppliers like american reloading... I use this stuff for everything in 556 but match grade reloads, and 16lbs is good for about 4500 rounds.

You're probably looking at about $500 before the actual powder primers and bullets. That's also assuming you have been saving your brass.

Sorry for the long post, but there is more to reloading than most people initially think. That said, I was able to piece all that together over last summer, and am cranking out rounds whenever I want now.

u/sonnyclips · 1 pointr/EDC

If you're on the road you need shit that is all utility. I've put together a list that I think fits that bill. No Kershaw Cryo fashion knives here. I love a good looking blade but if you pull that out and lay it next to you far from being threatening someone will probably just steal it.

You need to buy a hobo knife to be a proper hobo.

For a self defense blade I would look at the Cold Steel GI Tanto. To be honest it is best used as a deterrent, it is menacing enough that it should serve that purpose. It's tough steel too so you can use it to pry and chop too. Prepping firewood with it by batoning is going to be easy.

A coarse diamond sharpening key chain is also nice to have.

Here is a waterproof jacket for $11 from Eddie Bauer.

Some inexpensive dry stuff sacks would be good too.

A stainless water bottle that you can also use for cooking is good too.

u/shoangore · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I use Tekmat's bench mats - originally intended for cleaning long guns as it has exploded views of the guns, but I use one at work and one at home- I LOVE them. They're cheaper than the computer branded stuff (corsair and razer carry them but for a much higher price) at around $20-22 average. Way more than enough space for keyboard, mouse and HOTAS setup to all fit comfortably on it.


Not to mention they look awesome.

Slightly cheaper

u/RealAvid · 1 pointr/Archery

I second the butt out tool. Surprised that it isn't mentioned here more. Now I can't imagine gutting without one. Keep it in your bag in a big ziploc bag. Then it's the first thing you do. It's easy to do. Basically you're just pulling the entire rectum out of the animal so you don't have to worry about it when you're dressing. It's great. It's going to get a little nasty, so you just put it back in the bag.

Also - no one has really talked about full length field dressing gloves. They make HUGE difference. You're covered all the way up to your shoulder. They make it a lot easier to focus on what you actually need to be doing instead of focusing on how you don't like how it feels. The Vicks Vapor rub is a great tip too. I don't use it anymore but it was a life saver when my Dad said, "Ok, it's time for you to start doing this yourself." I actually had Vicks in a contact case in my pack ready to go because I knew that one year soon he'd say that.

Happy to see how supportive this discussion is. Hunters don't talk about it much and you get a lot of man up nonsense when the topic comes up. The truth is that we all went through it and most of us were surprised at how nasty it was when we actually had to get in there vs. watching our fathers or mothers do it. Every meat eater should have to dress an animal at least once in their life in my opinion.

u/la_fortezza · 4 pointsr/longrange

I've built something similar using point-to-point Wifi gear. It kinda sucks having to align to line up two antennae but you get much better range.

I am using Ubiquiti Networks ( equipment used in
long haul Wireless ISPs. This equipment is inexpensive and uses
standard technology: Power-Over-Ethernet (POE), Wifi, so it's easy to tweak.

I'm using a 9 amp-hour battery and current draw is ~0.6 amps so that
comes out 10 hours or so. It would be trivial to tack on a Solar panel
or bigger battery. The charge controller takes POE as an input so it's
easy to recharge the battery.

Here are a couple pics:

Shows the camera side of the setup:

Shows two .30 cal shots my tripod took and kept standing. :-)

The price tag for my setup came out to $438, here is the parts list:

2 x AmazonBasics 60-Inch Lightweight Tripod with Bag

POE/Solar Dual Input 12V Battery Charge Control (TP-SCPOE-1224)

12V 9AH AGM SLA Battery (TPBAT12-9)

Power extender over ethernet for Foscam (WS-POE-5v-10w)

Foscam FI8905W Outdoor Wireless/Wired IP Camera

Ubiquiti NanoStation M2

24V 1A 24W Wall Plug Passive POE Inserter (TP-POE-24-WP)

3 x 10FT 24AWG Cat6A 500MHz STP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable -

MTM Ammo Can (Forest Green)

DC Inline Watt Meter and Power Analyzer, Powerpole Ends

Revo 5" Hand Grip for HDSLRs and Video Cameras (Black) - Used for mast to strap Wifi antenna to

1" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe
Hardware Store

u/pokerd · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks! It's a TekMat - though I got mine on Amazon for the free shipping. I'm probably going to get the AR-15 one next so I can fit my mouse on there as well.

And nice choice with the XD9SC :D I'm a big fan of the Springfield lineup, and am now considering either an XD-S or 1911 of some variety for my next purchase. That probably won't be for awhile though with my mech KB habit.

u/MaximCannon · 2 pointsr/AskBattlestations

Don't have one myself but have heard some people love using these gun cleaning mats as mouse pads, the graphics on them are super cool plus they're big enough to cover under your keyboard and mouse!

u/geetarzrkool · 1 pointr/Guitar

You don't need to buy the exact same kit. Their fingerborad oil is just their own mix of Tru-oil, which should be a lot easier to find and cost less. You can also use Linseed oil, which works just as well.

As for cleaning, just use an old toothbrush with some warm water to lightly scrub the fingerboard. You can even use a small amount of a mild de-greaser like Windex, Simple Green. Wipe away the warm water/cleaner with a clean rag or paper towel. Once clean, let it dry for about 10-20 minutes, apply a drop of Tru-oil to each fret, rub it in thoroughly let it sit for another 10-20 minutes, then wipe away any excess.

u/TacoRave171 · 5 pointsr/reloading

I use one of the Frankford Platinum Series (marketing wank) trimmer/case prep centers almost exclusively.

I have a WFT and its pretty much on permanent loan to a friend that just reloads 100 or so here and there. Pushing a case up into the trimmer and shavings collecting in the housing made it a no go for me for long sessions. If you're not doing a ton of trimming, this should work fine.

I have used the Lee precision Cutter and Lock Stud and don't think this is useful for anyone for more than about a dozen cases at a time, though it does give consistent results.

I have an RCBS Trim pro and I'm sure if it was bolted down to a dedicated spot on a bench it will work just fine, but I don't have that kind of room. Or a bench.

The Frankford Trimmer does a few things I really like. It adjusts with the collets and shoulder guides for a very repeatable cut in just about any caliber imaginable, but most importantly, its comfortable for long sessions. It also busts your $150 requirement, but not by too much.

I place it standing upright in a plastic tub (to catch errant shavings) and use Gloves like these when trimming. I trim relatively clean brass, let the rubber on the gloves grip tight against the case head, and just hold my hand, using gravity and weight, on the case head until I feel the cutter stop cutting. Done. Use the deburr and chamfer tool running off the same drive train and it goes into a bin. I actually worry more about overheating the motor than I worry about being uncomfortable over long sessions. I've used it for thousands of 5.56 and .308, often in increments of a few hundred at a time.

u/Tiffiter · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Get a TekMat. They are gun cleaning pats, but they work perfectly as mouse pads. They have a large and small size - rifle vs pistol. e.g. link here

I've had one for 6mo now and loving it more than any mouse pad I've ever had. Cheaper too.

u/Pizza_Butt27 · 1 pointr/guns

Love the burnt bronze cerokote. Are you going to get an optic? I just got a great deal on a Vortex Strikefire II on Amazon. I'm a big fan of Vortex

Vortex Optics SF-BR-503 Strikefire II Red Dot Sight

u/GodOfAtheism · 2 pointsr/CasualConversation

Japanese/Chinese/Korean cooking/eating: Titanium chopsticks. Cheap, great quality.

Computer FPS players: Gun cleaning mat. Amazing mousepad and is all nice and thematic.

Car repair: Magnetic LED Light. Connects right to the inside of the hood, or basically anywhere in the car. Works wonders.

u/RallyMech · 6 pointsr/3gun

Rifle stuff:

  • Get a bundle of regular chamber flags, like [these]. There's no reason to spend that much on a chamber flag.
  • I'm a big fan of Holosun Red Dots, especially the motion activated circle dot (EoTech style reticle) models like the HS503GU. The smaller dot definitely helps with longer range-small target shots.
  • If you're going to stick with the TRS-25 (I've competed with one myself), go for the tall riser rather than the medium. Many competitors are moving to 2.04" optic mounts for a more upright head position, the one you linked works out to be 1.54". [Link]
  • The fancy charging handle is somewhere between nice-to-have and pointless. It all depends on whether your local clubs stage guns hot/cold, and whether you have to drop the mag and clear the chamber before dumping the gun. The 4 clubs I shoot at all have different rules for this.
  • I would skip the MS4 sling and the QD end plate. Single point is good in very specific circumstances, which don't exist in 3gun. Save the cash, and get an MS1. Note that you will rarely need or use a sling in 3gun. 2gun/combat type matches generally require one however.
  • Don't buy a BAD lever. Consider the PDQ bolt catch, or another option if you need to manipulate the bolt catch from the right side of the rifle. See here:
  • If you don't already have a bore snake and a cleaning rod, I would pick up both. Bore snake for simple bore maintenance, and cleaning rod to pound out a squib. If you shoot enough, you will eventually get a squib.
  • You will want to buy a handful of mags. Stick with PMAGs, there's no real reason to get anything else.

    Pistol stuff:

  • That holster may not work well with that belt. I would get an ALS version with mid or low ride mount. Or get a purpose made friction only holster. I use a 6930ALS mid ride-light bearing with a G19.
  • I have the same pistol mag caddys. No complaints from me, but if you really want to be competitive from the start, you may want something that allows adjustment for better indexing. Someone else will be able to recommend them for you.


  • Opening up the loading port will help, without a doubt.
  • That shell caddy is really nice. I personally use Taccom caddies due to their price.
  • Skip the fancy chamber flag
  • Might be worth looking into Taccom's match saver [link]. No opinion one way or another. Note that match saver's tend to be consumable items, as dumping the shotgun after using the match saver will sometimes break it.

    Transport Equipment:

  • You will get really annoyed carrying around your gear, ammo, snacks, and water. There's a reason that carts and wagons are so prevalent. I personally use a $40 collapsible wagon from Walmart, because I can't fit anything bigger in my car.
u/StavingBordom · 2 pointsr/ar15

I have the ACSS Reticle Holosun, and I love it! If you end up getting the ACSS Reticle model, I would recommend getting a magnifier (3x or 4x) in order to practically use the lower dots.
I bought this cheap magnifier and put it behind it:

The eye relief is not great (1.5" to 2") but it works pretty well for a more budget build.

u/HoberShort · 2 pointsr/CompetitionShooting

The Blackhawk Sportster Standard (i.e. the version without the awful SERPA lock) is probably the best value in an entry-level OWB holster I've ever used. I wrote a review of it here.

$19 w/ free shipping on Amazon.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Yup, the AK-47. I wish the keyboard didn't cover up the best part of it but it works great as a mousepad and keeps the keyboard from sliding around.

u/bkelley · 1 pointr/ar15

I love my Vortex Strikefire 2. After finding zero it was dealing out solid groups for me at 75 yards standing. Paired with a good set of BUIS and you'd be ready to go. Primary Arms seems to be the gold standard for bang for your buck optics. Their 4-14x44 is probably the route I'm gonna go for my 6.5grendel build.

u/RazorRaul · 41 pointsr/gundeals

36 of these mags fit in one of these in a way that is highly pleasing for my autism.

LCM of 16 and 36 is 144, making an order of 4 ac11s, and 145 mags the most cost effective way to wallow in your autism.

u/FartyPoopy · 2 pointsr/videos

I mean, easier said than done. It was a spear with a friggen go pro on it. But generally, a heart, lung, spine shot is ideal. If you rupture the lower intestines you can taint the meat. One of the reasons tools like the butt out exist to aid in field dressing after a clean kill. Stick up the butt, twist and pull the intestine out to not get shit all in the meat.

u/SparklesTheRhino · 1 pointr/reloading

Not sure what the heck all these bot reaponses are but man...thank you so much. That would be amazing to have someone as knowledgeable as you walk me through it all!

I think I understand the principle of what you're trying to accomplish with the headspace gauge. But that's probably a few weeks down the road for me. I'm just going to start with factory new brass and work my way up from there. Speaking of which, how much lube do I need to apply to the brass? I'd prefer to just use spray lube/case holder but if I go that route - do I just give them all one spray from the top or do you need to get the lube all the way around? I even read somewhere that you don't* want lube on the neck?

Here is my buy list so far:

RCBS turret press
RCBS chargemaster lite
RCBS Hand primer tool

This die set:

(Btw what does FL stand for?)

Some calipers and maybe another scale to double check weights.

Currently, that's all that is in my cart. What else do you see that's missing?

u/NikoTheAsian · 2 pointsr/Glocks

This stuff is pretty good. Worked for small scratches on my slide.

Or give it a good ol cerakote

u/JonSzanto · 4 pointsr/fountainpens

Yep: there might be cheaper sources, but this is what I've bought on Amazon. On sale now for <$4.

(And me, a non-gun person...)

Here's mine. See, it's perfect (I padded inside the top with foam because I was mailing these 25 samples.)

u/MAexplorer · 4 pointsr/fountainpens

Looks like it doubled in price, but still a great buy imo. Here's the link

u/SilverManGold · 2 pointsr/Silverbugs

Thanks! It's a TekMat. Great for disassembling guns, as a giant keyboard/mouse pad and as I've recently discovered - stacking silver on.

u/goxxy · 3 pointsr/1022

A budget of $50 won't give you much to work with unless you're talking bargain basement.

Like this:

I am running a Primary Arms red dot and a UTG 3x flip up magnifier. Very happy with both.

u/KleyPlays · 2 pointsr/Guitar

I've used Tru Oil on many necks. It is a great finish IMO. Easy to work with. Produces a very slick feel. I got a bottle of this some years ago and it has lasted quite a few projects.

The only downside is that it can be a bit labor intensive - especially if you want to get that mirror type shine. Subsequent coats stack on top of one another, whereas other finishes like Lacquer tend to burn into one another. So you should take your time with each coat. Try to get a uniform thickness. Spend some time sanding between each coat, using progressively finer grits as you move up. 5 to 10 coats would be minimal and produce a more dull finish. To get more of a gloss you need a lot of coats and a lot of patient high grit sanding.

u/madapiarist · 4 pointsr/canadagunsEE

How firm? They are $228 on Amazon right now with free shipping, which is pretty close to the average price.

u/FreddyFuego · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Look into TekMat, they make cleaning mats for guns but the material they use is the same as all the HQ mouse pads around for a much cheaper price. I use this one and love it, plenty of room and never slides around on my desk.

u/OldManHenry · 2 pointsr/ar15

that's your castle nut. there are products like aluminum black if it bugs you.

Personally - after my first few scratches, I stopped caring. You can tell my rifle gets used and I think it looks good with a little character.

u/TheAsianTroll · 2 pointsr/airsoftmarket

Assuming no one sells you one, there's a pretty good one on Amazon: UTG 3X Magnifier with Flip-to-side QD Mount, W/E Adjustable

I have this one myself and its sturdy and well built, especially for the price

u/christopherwrong · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Another option which you could think about is a hobo knife. Picture a silverware multitool that disassembles into three individual components. I've never liked the double sided spoon/forks, seems messy. The snowpeak seems like a great option if you want a true spork.

u/cragar79 · 2 pointsr/knives

I've been googling here for a bit, this isn't it exactly, but is pretty similar (and an official Spyderco case, ooo^ohhh):

*Edit: Okay, apparently that is it exactly.

u/ethics- · 2 pointsr/guns

You can usually just get them on Amazon. Seems like they're currently OOS, like many other online retailers.

Here's the link, for what its worth.

u/tenmilez · 2 pointsr/VAGuns

The short version for now is I would recommend this holster

Blackhawk Sportster Standard Holster with Belt Loop and Right Paddle with Matte Finish (Glock 19/23/32/36)

It's the same holster I use, it's cheap, it's great, and it'll get here by Friday so you can use it Saturday.

I'll have more info later about using your existing holster when I'm not at work and can get behind my keyboard.

u/lodestaris · 3 pointsr/knives

The Spyderco Spyderpac is a good one on a budget. I actually think that works well for a closet since you can hang it right on the door/wall.

I agree with the other poster, the pelican cases with knife slots are a nice choice. Not as budget friendly.

You can probably find some no name pluck foam case to do it more reasonably.

u/scaldinghotcarl · 3 pointsr/ar15

It's a TekMat and they're pretty neat.
They make a bunch of different ones too.

u/HappyDonut · 1 pointr/knives

What LockoutTagout said.

I used to display my collection by buying those cheap little desk drawers, I'd line them with that rubber carpet pads .

Now I use spyderco's spyderpacs. I hang them up on nails using the few loops that the pacs have. Then I just place the knives inside. Nice little wall decoration. :)

u/olorinii · 2 pointsr/guns

Amazon, Midwayusa, Cheaperthandirt. Lots of places sell them and they are nice and cheap. Like the other reply already stated they are called chamber flags.

u/MrBrian22 · 2 pointsr/reloading

I always recommend getting analog calipers instead of the digital ones. That way you don't have to worry about batteries dying on you, and in my experience, the analog ones give much more consistent readings.

I would also suggest that you skip the Hornady case trimmer, and go ahead and upgrade to something like the Frankford Arsenal Prep center.
Yes, it's $100 more, but after doing about 50 cases by hand, you'll be ready to get an electric trimmer, and then you'll just have the $75 manual trimmer sitting there unused (unless you plan on trimming straight-walled cases) The Frankford prep center would also give you a chamfer/deburring tool, and primer pocket cleaners, and you can simply get a military crimp remover for it like this. that would fit right in the prep station (which could be a big bonus if you get into military 7.62x51 brass)
As far as dies, I like the Lee dies, and if you want "precision rifle" rounds, then go ahead and get the four die set, so you get both a full length resizer and a neck sizer die. I also like Lee dies because they include the shell holder and they have the crimping die seperate from the bullet seating die (but that's personal preference)
Lastly, I can't speak for the Hornady Neck Turning Tool, but I would suggest not getting that yet, and putting that $100 towards the prep station. I don't have experience with neck turning, but I really don't think it'll give you that much added accuracy.

u/dukeface13 · 1 pointr/flashlight

Never tried it personally, but maybe something like this would work well for you.

u/PAULJR85 · 2 pointsr/ar15

Don't worry too much about the finish, you're going to use the rifle and the finish will take marks if you're doing it right.

If you really scratch it good (down to bare aluminum) get a bottle of [Aluminum Black](BW Casey Aluminum Black Touch-Up 3 oz and all will be well.

u/gaius49 · 1 pointr/reloading

Are you sure you really want a manual one? This one has been good to 0.001" in my experience... and its not a carpel tunnel machine.

u/RmJack · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

My brother bought one of these(TekMat 12-Inch X 36-Inch Long Gun Cleaning Mat with AK-47 Imprint), if that's your thing, they make great mouse pads and roughly the same price, just a bit thicker and 12" instead of 18". They also make ones with other popular firearm models.

u/birdpix · 1 pointr/FLMedicalTrees

The one I'm using is similar, and most definitely does not kill MJ smells from leaking out. The one I'm using is
but I think I need full water PROOF over water resistant. Looking at the metal ones as they claim fully sealed air/water proof. Maybe they'll be on black Friday sales... :-)

u/Ag3ntDboy · 6 pointsr/airsoft
u/MirolynMonbro · 1 pointr/reloading

This was an awesome "upgrade" to my Lee press. Hornady Lock N Load Light Strip

u/UrinalMint · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Big fan of these for gaming mousepads. Big enough to put your keyboard on to help anchor it.

u/southofi10 · 2 pointsr/reloading

Yep, that will help to see down in the cases. I use this one on my progressive press.

u/acemetrical · 1 pointr/hockeyplayers

I use this waterproof container. Keeps everything dry (particularly band-aids) and doesn't crush under gear. Perfect.

u/Fjiord · 1 pointr/MouseReview

I would like to know how different is this mouse mat compared to a gun mat. Have been wanting to get a huge mouse mat for a while.

u/qhp · 2 pointsr/ak47

The one he has is a TekMat, the one on Amazon is not. Get a TekMat, if you can, they're really nice.

u/BaconCheeseBurger · 2 pointsr/knives

Kabar, 20 bucks. I have the same one made by Cabellas, its perfect for what you need.

u/random157294683 · 2 pointsr/reloading

I'm seriously considering a Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Case Prep and Trim Center. It looks like a very flexible and fast trimming platform.

Edit: Here it is on Amazon for $143.21

u/cakan4444 · 1 pointr/gundeals

I mean, I get it's pretty hard to make profitable margins and even try to compete with Amazon for a lot of stuff but $56 shipped on Amazon for the magnifier makes it hard to buy on a website I've never heard of.

u/EMCoupling · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The exact one.

Search "TekMat" on Amazon for a ton and pick your favorite gun.

A lot of people like to use them as mousepads because they're pretty much the same as the cloth gaming mousepads, but you get more area for cheaper.

u/GiornaGuirne · 3 pointsr/Gunsforsale

Yeah, seriously. Most everything on that list is cheaper or the same price if you already have Prime. Is OP having a clearance sale at their LGS or something? Can OP guarantee 2-day shipping?

EDIT: in case OP runs out



Bigger Remington 870

1911 #1

1911 #2











u/Red_1977 · 1 pointr/canadaguns

A friend got it for me.

I found an AR 15 one after a quick google search on

I'm sure they have the gun you want there somewhere

u/H00t1e · 1 pointr/reloading

I just got this to start loading 308.

Works like a charm and makes everything else very fast. It only works with necked cases however. But it takes standard thread sizes and is able to do any caliber out of the box no extra pilots or accessories needed.

I did however order a primer reamer and uniformer for it also

u/ColWalterKurtz · 2 pointsr/Firearms

I reload pistol in law turret also, I zipped tied one of these lights to the post of the reloader casting light into the case. That way I can always see into the case easily without straining. Just a little hint. Sucks about your gun, glad your ok.

u/ThePotatoShepherd · 5 pointsr/fountainpens

Another good way to store your vials would be using some shotshell cases like this. Personally I just go the cheap route and use a strip of cardboard with holes cut out to keep the vials together.

u/Helevitia · 2 pointsr/ar15

haha, I was wondering if somebody would ask about that.

Here you go.

Also, they sell gun mats, too.

AR15 Mat.

I prefer the computer mat because it's huge! But that is the downside as well, takes up a lot of space.

u/hivbus · 2 pointsr/cigars

Keep a 65% Boveda in there, should be good to go. If you're going to be travelling/bumping around, might want to put some bubble wrap in.

u/DiabeetusMan · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

The first one. Cheap-ish, big, looks neat


u/nathanrosspowell · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks a lot :)

TekMat is the mouse pad. They are for assembling guns on, but many people use them on their desks.

u/reifier · 2 pointsr/dogecoin

Do you carry tek mats? They double as really cool keyboard/mousepad/playmats


u/Xspead101 · 2 pointsr/Bowyer

I have read a lot of good about Tru-Oil on other bow making forums. I am going to try it on my next bow and see how it does.

u/ExtremeFreedom · 2 pointsr/ar15 Turns aluminum black, will cover that up nicely without adding any thickness to the finish.

u/Dumplati · 1 pointr/canadaguns

Thanks for the help all.

Went with the following.

BLACKHAWK! Sportster Range Bag, Black

3 Trigger Locks

Chamber Flags


Stapler Staples

Cheap Earplugs

Cleaning Kit Should I also get a collapsible one? Was unable to find one on Amazon.

Eye Protection

Primary Ear Protection

Anything I missed?
[Secondary Ear Protection] ( Incase my main ones fail, or I have a guest.

u/dandjcro · 2 pointsr/battlestations

TekMat - They were popular on reddit awhile ago.

u/tb21666 · 2 pointsr/Waxpen

Nice. Reminds me of a shotgun shell box.

u/the5thpixel · 4 pointsr/Glocks

So this was posted 8 hours ago, no link to any deal... also how do you propose to beat the price on what is considered the best gun cleaning mats around?

Also looking through your comments I found your amazon storefront which has zero products on it.

u/aje14700 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Where, not why. I know why, that's why I want one too, plus I actually could use it for it's original purpose, stripping an AR-15. But a quick google search answered my question.

u/GambitGamer · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I actually recommend getting a gun cleaning mat instead of these giant mousepads. They look badass, are cheaper, and are made of exactly the same material. Essentially, same product without the gaming markup.


u/gobralter · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

People seem to like using these

u/RezReddit · 2 pointsr/ar15

UTG here is a link the the product. I know, I know, Amazon products, especially optics, on guns and all that. Had to keep my wallet intact.

u/dbinkerd · 2 pointsr/ar15

It is something like this (not sure if it is the exact one, but similar enough).

u/TexasNiteowl · 12 pointsr/fountainpens

The MTM Case-Gard shotshell case...bought mine via Amazon, but sometimes available at local bigbox stores and sports/outdoors stores. Here is the Amazon link:

u/eleventy_six · 1 pointr/fountainpens

Shotgun shell boxes like this one work really well.

u/JE3146 · 3 pointsr/gundeals

UTG Universal Firearm Chamber Safety Flag, Orange, 6PCs/Set

Rotary13B1 Remove Before Firing Keychain - Neon Orange/Black - 5pcs

The prices go up and down. Looks more like $4 each right now. There's also various flags. Remove before PewPew. Empty Chamber, etc etc.

u/ISaidNoDecaf · 5 pointsr/gundeals

I'm a fan of the engraved tag idea. If there's a convenient way to attach those tags to MTM ammo cans (like this or this), I'd be down to buy at least a couple.

u/TyL3nc · 1 pointr/battlestations

Thanks, It's a gun cleaning mat I ordered from amazon.
Saw someone else on here with one and I had to have it hah

u/fromplsnerf · 2 pointsr/guns

Yep I'm going to pick this up next Friday

vortex strikefire II

u/XSlevinn · 1 pointr/reloading

I use the Hornady Light Strip and it works well enough for me. I might upgrade to an Inline Fabrication Skylight kit at some point for my Load Master.

They also have a ceiling kit if you don't want to drill the hole for the skylight.

u/YamSs · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

Not a mousepad as far as I understand. You can use it as one if you like tough.

u/NATOMarksman · 3 pointsr/airsoft

If you want to get a G19 and have $30, don't even question getting a hard shell holster like [this SERPA] (

If you don't need the additional retention because you don't sprint/roll a lot, [this other holster] ( will fit your gun similarly and is $10 cheaper.

Either way the paddle holster isn't falling off your belt and your gun is secure and fast to draw/holster.

Alternatively if you do want some retention for a lower price, [soft shell] ( will work fine with a thumb break.

It depends on what you want to do, but for only $10 more, most people opt for SERPA.

u/admiralnorman · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Had it. It was okay. I highly prefer a TekMat for a similar price.

$11 - Slightly smaller - 1911 handgun

$20 - Full keyboard size - AR15 Rifle

Edit - They also make those for many other guns. I have the MP-5 at work and the Desert eagle at home.

u/Cazmir09 · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

also won't move around the way small mouse pads do. I have a Medium Razer Goliathus and that stupid thing keep slipping around cuz it doesn't have enough friction with the table. I'm going to look into getting one of these bigass mousepads. I think for the price this is the best bet as it seems many many people use it.

u/muggsybeans · 25 pointsr/news

You can't even buy gun stock oil out of state. If anyone doesn't know what that is, it is this stuff:

It's literally a finish for wood. If you live in California, you can't even buy it online and have it shipped to another state if your billing address is in California. This is what LIberals refer to as smart gun laws.

u/bleedcmyk · 2 pointsr/mechmarket

Its probably a Tek Mat. They're for gun cleaning / assembly, but its literally the same material as a cloth mousepad.

Just search for TekMat on amazon and you should be able to find a ton of different guns.

u/Mouseater1 · 2 pointsr/reloading

If you plan on loading a few of them, you may want to check out the frankford arsenal case prep deluxe. It has a WFT style of trimmer on it along with all the other case prep things you would usually need.

u/TheDude256 · 2 pointsr/knifemaking

I did use curly maple along with a TransFast Water-Soluble Powder Dye Stain (COLONIAL MAPLE #3277) finished with Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Here is a link to the dye and for the tru-oil

u/LGBTerrific · 1 pointr/Lightbulb

Check out this hobo knife - each piece (spoon, knife, fork) all separate into individual utensils.

u/bunnicorn · 6 pointsr/TrollXChromosomes

I have the Ka-Bar Hobo.

It's got a knife, spoon, fork, and bottle opener. Everything a lady foodie needs in a folding knife.

u/QuickPlantains · 1 pointr/knives

I use this and I like it. Here's the smaller version:

u/Ripcord83 · 1 pointr/knifeclub

In a [Spyderco SP2 SpyderPac] (Spyderco Spyderpac Small SP2 I’m starting to run out of room though.

u/zgf2022 · 1 pointr/funny

Actually from what I hear they are handy.

The object in question

u/Solostampede · 2 pointsr/ar15

Did you use the buttout?

u/Pastordan23 · 1 pointr/WTF

You'll need one of these.

u/RC-1207Sev · 1 pointr/NFA

Probably Aluminum Black.

u/-AdamTheGreat- · 3 pointsr/AppleWatch

This happened to my S0. I used some Aluminum black on it. Couldn’t see it afterwards.

u/Kacay · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Quite a few people also seem to use a TekMat.

Edit: Also /r/askbattlestations

u/superdelux86 · 4 pointsr/gundeals

> Tek Mat


u/tally_in_da_houise · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards


12" x 36" size

u/Testiculese · 1 pointr/Firearms

Check MTM. They have thicker walls than the others, and will handle a full load. I have a dozen of them at home.

u/FlyingLizard45 · 1 pointr/ak47