Reddit mentions: The best industrial drill bits
We found 68 Reddit comments discussing the best industrial drill bits. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 29 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Neiko 10194A Titanium Step Drill Bit, High Speed Steel | 1/4 to 1-3/8 | Total 10 Step Sizes
- 2-FLUTE DESIGN: Titanium-coated bit with 2-flute design for versatile drilling in steel, stainless steel, copper, aluminum, and other surfaces
- CUTS AND DEBURRS: Cuts through steel, sheet metal and other surfaces with only a small amount of pressure and deburrs as you drill
- SUPER STRONG: Made of high speed steel and titanium coated for added durability and bit life
- MULTIPLE DRILL SIZES WITH ONE BIT: 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8, 1, 1-1/8, 1-1/4, 1-3/8-inch
- VERSATILE AND FAST: 3/8" 3-flat shank prevents slippage when drilling new holes or enlarging existing holes
Features:
Specs:
Color | Titanium |
Height | 1.6 Inches |
Length | 6.1 Inches |
Weight | 0.31 Pounds |
Width | 2.9 Inches |
Size | 1/4” to 1-3/8” (10 Sizes) |
Number of items | 1 |
2. Neiko 10193A Titanium Step Drill Bit Set, High Speed Steel | 3-Piece Set | Total 28 Sizes
- REPLACES 28 DRILL BITS: This set includes three standard SAE step drill bits that replace 28 individual drill bits
- TITANIUM COATED STRENGTH: Made of high speed steel with titanium coating for added durability and bit life
- SMOOTH DRILLING ACTION: Two-flute design provides faster, smoother cutting without walking and a tri-flat shank ensure a firm grip
- A COMPLETE SAE SET: Comes with one 3/16-inch to 1/2-inch six-step bit, 1/4-inch to 3/4-inch nine-step bit, and 1/8-inch to 1/2-inch 13-step bit
- CUTS AND DEBURRS: Cuts through steel, sheet metal and other surfaces with only a small amount of pressure and deburrs as you drill
Features:
Specs:
Color | Titanium |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Weight | 0.015625 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
Size | Combined Sizes |
Number of items | 1 |
3. CO-Z 5pcs Hss Cobalt Multiple Hole 50 Sizes Step Drill Bit Set with Aluminum Case
- Extreme Durabikity: Cobalt high speed steel drill bits along with the titanium coating ensures extreme durability, will stay new and shiny for years to come.
- Different Sizes of Holes Can Be Drilled: Different sized shanks ensure compatibility with 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 in. chuck sizes. You are capable to drill holes in different sizes which can meet your normal needs.
- Smooth Drilling: Non-walking drill tip provides fast and smooth drills on steel sheets, aluminum sheets, wood board, plastic board etc. (the board must be smaller in thickness than the height of step drill bits).
- Use Center Punch to Mark the Spot: Please mark the spot that you are to drill for easier drilling and improved drill bits life.
- Keep Your Step Drill Bits Well Organized: All the bits come in a well-organized case for easy transport and storage.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Dark Bronze |
Height | 6.1023621985 Inches |
Length | 4.330708657 Inches |
Weight | 1.1464037624 Pounds |
Width | 1.574803148 Inches |
4. Neiko 10184A Titanium Step Drill Bit Set, High Speed Steel | 1/4” to 3/4” | Total 9 Step Sizes
TITANIUM | HIGH SPEED STEEL: classic high speed steel with titanium coating for proven capability and durability in drilling holes in plastic, aluminum, copper, stainless steel and many other types of sheet metal135° SPLIT POINT TIP: increases cutting speed with self-centering and prevents walkingT...
Specs:
Height | 0.90551181102362 Inches |
Length | 2.3622047244094 Inches |
Width | 5.7086614173228 Inches |
Size | Size 1/4" to 3/4" |
Number of items | 1 |
5. DEWALT Step Drill Bit, Impact Ready, 1/8-Inch-1/2-Inch (DWA1783IR)
Titanium two flute spiral design provides longer life and better chip removalSplit point tip increases speedLaser engraved numbers increases step visibilityOptimized for impact driver usage
Specs:
Color | Multi |
Height | 0.75 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Weight | 0.01 Pounds |
Width | 2.88 Inches |
Size | One Size |
Number of items | 1 |
6. Step Drill,Knoweasy 10 Step Sizes Titanium Step Drill Bit,High Speed Steel 1/4 to 1-3/8 Inches Drill Bits Set for Metal Hole Drilling
- ✅【Includes 10 step sizes:】1/4",3/8",1/2",5/8",3/4",7/8",1",1-1/8", 1-1/4",1-3/8"
- ✅【Application:】Perfect for home repairs and light jobs such as drilling holes in plastic, aluminum, copper, iron sheet and many other types of sheet metal
- ✅【High Quality Material:】Made of strong high speed steel with titanium coating, the bits have strong durability
- ✅【Unique Design:】Two-fluted design provides faster,smoother cutting,provided with small pressure and the sets
- ✅【What you get:】Knoweasy Step drill with safe plastic case,12 month wmonths warranty
Features:
Specs:
Size | Step Drill Bits 8 |
7. Allstar Performance ALL11040 Step Drill Set - 3 Piece
- Package Dimensions: 17.78 L x 10.16 W x 1.016 H (centimetres)
- Country of Origin : Taiwan
- Package Weight: 0.5 pounds
- Fit type: Vehicle Specific
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.7 Inches |
Length | 4.05 Inches |
Weight | 0.2425084882 Pounds |
Width | 6.95 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
8. ABN Titanium Step Drill Bit – 10 Steps from 1/4"-1-3/8" Inches for Plastic, Wood, Metal – Steel, Brass, Aluminum, Copper
- Practical: Use the ABN Titanium Step Drill Bit – 10 Steps from 1/4"-1-3/8" Inches for Plastic, Wood, Metal – Steel, Brass, Aluminum, Copper to drill round holes without wasting time by changing drill bits
- Versatile: Works on plastic, wood, and most metals including steel, brass, aluminum, and copper
- Durable: Constructed from steel with a titanium coating for strength and longevity
- Smooth: 2-flute design for smoother cutting; 3 flat side cutouts for a stronger, better grip on a standard drill chuck.
- Specifications: 3/8” (8mm) shank; Step sizes include 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 7/8", 1", 1-1/8", 1-1/4", 1-3/8"
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.49999999847 Inches |
Length | 4.49999999541 Inches |
Weight | 0.3968320716 Pounds |
Width | 3.49999999643 Inches |
9. DEWALT Step Drill Bit Set, 7/8-Inch to 1-1/8-Inch (DWA1789IR)
Titanium two flute spiral design provides longer life and better chip removalSplit point tip increases speedLaser engraved numbers increases step visibilityOptimized for impact driver usage
Specs:
Color | Multi |
Height | 1.13 inches |
Length | 6 inches |
Weight | 0.01 Pounds |
Width | 2.88 inches |
Size | One Size |
Number of items | 1 |
10. COMOWARE Step Drill Bit Set & Automatic Center Punch- Unibit, Titanium Coated, Double Cutting Blades, High Speed Steel, Short Length Drill Bits Set of 5 pcs, Total 50 Sizes with Aluminum Case
- HSS Titanium Coating - High speed steel along with titanium coating ensures outstanding durability and sharpness, can reduces the friction, runs cooler.
- Meet Your Demands - With the step drill bits we offered, you can process different kinds of diameter holes, which greatly saves you a lot of trouble.Great for metal/wood/plastic countersunk. Suitable for Home DIY, and General Building/Engineering Use.
- Design - The split point tip is at 118 degrees to increase the wear resistance. The two flute design provides a smoother cutting, allows the material particles escape easily for a much more clean drilling operation.
- Easy Organizing - A drill bits holder with size index is included in the metal kit for easy storage and organizing without fear of it falling out.
- Set Includes - The drill bits set includes five common sizes for versatility, can fit the majority of brands currently on the market.
Features:
11. Drillpro Titanium Step Drill Bit Cone Drill Bits, High Speed Steel 10 Steps 1/4” to 1-3/8”
12. Step Drill Bit Set by Volterin, Cone Titanium Coated High Speed Steel | 4-Piece Set with Pouch | 3-12mm/4-12mm/ 4-20mm and Center Punch
TITANIUM | HIGH SPEED STEEL: Classic High Speed Steel With Titanium Coating For Proven Capability and DurabilityTRI-FLATTED SHANK: Fits Into Power Tools Chuck Securely and Eliminates SlipSPLIT POINT TIP: Increases Cutting Speed With Self-Centering And Prevents WalkingDrilling Holes In: Plastic, Alum...
Specs:
Color | Gold |
Height | 0.1 Inches |
Length | 0.1 Inches |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 0.1 Inches |
Size | 3 Pcs Metric With Puncher |
13. Greenlee 36414 Step Bit
- Power Tools
- Manufacturer: Greenlee
- Country of manufacture: United States
Features:
Specs:
Color | Green |
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Weight | 0.45 Pounds |
Width | 8 Inches |
Size | Hole sizes 7/8" through 1-3/8" |
Number of items | 1 |
14. Pittsburgh/Warrior Manual Knockout Punch Kit with 3 Pc Titanium Nitride Coated High Speed Steel Step Drill Bit Set Bundle
1 - Manual Knockout Punch Set1 – 3 Piece Titanium Nitride Coated High Speed Steel Step Drill Set
Specs:
Height | 50 Centimeters |
Length | 100 Centimeters |
Weight | 100 Kilograms |
Width | 100 Centimeters |
15. Neiko 10187A Titanium Nitride Coated Step Drill Bit 9/16", High Speed Steel with 13 Steps
- Super practical and simple two flute drill bit design provides clean, smooth and powerful incision
- Strong titanium nitride steel construction is highly durable withstanding high impact maintaining long tool life
- Convenient 13 multi-size level allows for quick change alteration without hassle of switching separate bits to keep up with fast operating jobs
- Automatic pilot tip center punch deburrs holes while drilling with a quick punch for strong and sharp delivery
- Extremely versatile and compatible for wide use for drilling in tough metal, plastic, wood, planks, steel, glass and much more
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.4173228346457 Inches |
Length | 2.3622047244094 Inches |
Width | 5.7086614173228 Inches |
Size | 9/16" |
Number of items | 1 |
16. Simpson Strong-Tie CPFH09KT Crack-Pac FLEX-H2O Polyurethane Crack Sealer Kit
Crack Sealer Kit
Specs:
Weight | 4.4 Pounds |
Number of items | 1 |
17. MAGBIT 851.1500 MAG851 1/4-Inch to 1-1/2-Inch Max Diameter High Speed Step Drill Bit, 11 Steps
- High speed steel for use in thin materials
- For use in sheet steel, non-ferrous metal, pvc, plastic laminates and even plywood
- Split point prevents walking
- No pilot hole required for burr free, perfectly round holes
- Triple flute for cleaner cuts
Features:
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
18. Vastar Titanium Step Drill Bit Set, 3-Piece Set & Automatic Center Punch
28 sizes individual drill bits in 3:This set includes three standard step drill bits that replace 28 individual drill bitsStrong durability :Made of strong m2 steel with titanium coating, the bits have strong durabilityEasy drilling:Two-fluted design provides faster, smoother cutting, provided with ...
Specs:
Height | 0.6 Inches |
Length | 5.59 inches |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 2.1 Inches |
Size | 4 in 1 |
19. IRWIN Step Drill Bit, 1/8-Inch to 1/2-Inch Step, 1/4-Inch Shank (10231)
- This product is easy to use
- This product is highly durable
- This product is manufactured in United States
- Save time because you don't need to change drills for different-sized round holes in thin materials. Each drill acts as a pilot for the next size.
- Patented single-flute cutting edge gives greater control through steps and a true round hole every time.
- Ideal for drilling holes into thin materials such as stainless steel, copper, brass, aluminum, plastic and laminates.
- Speed Point tip penetrates faster than previous Unibits and prevents walking. 3-faltted hex shank prevents slipping in drill chuck.
- Drill diameters etched in flute for easy identification.
- Save time because you don't need to change drills for different-sized round holes in thin materials. Each drill acts as a pilot for the next size.
- Patented single-flute cutting edge gives greater control through steps and a true round hole every time.
- Ideal for drilling holes into thin materials such as stainless steel, copper, brass, aluminum, plastic and laminates.
- SpeedPoint tip penetrates faster than previous Unibits and prevents walking. 3-faltted hex shank prevents slipping in drill chuck.
- Drill diameters etched in flute for easy identification.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver|Silver metallic |
Height | 0.8 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Weight | 0.0992080179 Pounds |
Width | 2.9 Inches |
Size | 1/2 inches |
Number of items | 1 |
20. Drillpro Damaged Screw Remover Extractor Set by Mring Set Screwdriver Bit Sets Screw Remover Drill 1/4'' Hex Shank ( 5PCS )
Specification: 0 #, 1 #, 2 #, 3 #, 4 #Handle: hex shank 1/4 '' (6.35MM)Material:HSS4241Suitable for with the joint or chuck an electric power tool, and suit for remove the screw or bad nut screw on a hard wood.
Specs:
Color | 5 pcs silver |
Number of items | 5 |
🎓 Reddit experts on industrial drill bits
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where industrial drill bits are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Bastard files with remove the most metal of all other file grinds.
I got started making knives several years back using a hand jig inspired by Aaron Gough.
Here's a link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ
You can find several more youtube video's on the subject.
Your design looks pretty good, I would recommend doing one blade from start to finish until you perfect your process. 6 mm stock is pretty thick so you might want to skeletonize the handle a bit to better balance the blade and reduce weight. Here is a link to an example:
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https://www.knifecenter.com/item/WTWRATK/white-river-knives-owen-baker-jr-atk-always-there-knife-s35vn-stonewashed-blade-skeletonized-handle-kydex-sheath
​
be careful not to take out too much material just behind where the knife meets the handle, this can create a weak point if you decide to baton with the knife.
​
I would get a step of bit for drilling pin holes and skeletonize the knife, I like this one. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWA1783IR-8-Inch-1-2-Inch-IMPACT/dp/B0090IHBL4/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?gclid=Cj0KCQiAn8nuBRCzARIsAJcdIfNba4wvdHAT8G-Xw7-192SSo25KbGIIFRTaciL4vTm_fm1Ye7TqVvoaAignEALw_wcB&hvadid=153692517255&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9031951&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1119223531089504081&hvtargid=aud-837686656069%3Akwd-6841401801&hydadcr=1611_9512018&keywords=dewalt+step+bit&pd_rd_i=B0090IHBL4&pd_rd_r=3301b045-680f-4746-bf0c-1409a9698aae&pd_rd_w=U7oJ6&pd_rd_wg=l4rot&pf_rd_p=1cb3f32a-ccfd-479b-8a13-b22f56c942c6&pf_rd_r=HW4NWM70PNESNP2QKEG0&psc=1&qid=1574091165
So much easier to make holes than a typical drill bit, even if you use a carbide drill bit.
Also make sure you make all of your holes and rough grind the bevels before you heat treat, as once hard, removing or drilling metal will be tough. Also keep the edge of the blade at least 0.4 mm or so at the edge before you heat treat, if you grind it too think, the blade will warp.
​
Good luck!
Warm the surface up. I use a heat gun for a few seconds, but a hair dryer will work as well. It cracks because the plastic is brittle. Give it a little heat and it gets a little more pliable. Not too far or you create a whole different problem. There are also different drill bits you can use. I've had great luck with Forstner Bits
and an almost perfect record with Step Bits
As u/FungalScripture (great name BTW) says, go slow. Keep pressure on the tool very light, and some support on the back side of the plastic you're drilling through can help too. Best of luck.
I'll agree with skunk in that I think the sanitary fittings was a bit overblown. I use threaded fittings on everything and have never had a problem. I take them apart about every 5 batches or so to clean them more thoroughly, but they stay pretty clean.
General advice, some obvious, some not, in no particular order -
Get a step bit. I can recommend this set of 3, which is $9 shipped -
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10193A-Titanium-Drill-3-Piece/dp/B001OEPYWK
They are great for aluminum. If you want to drill through something harder than aluminum, they will do the trick but use a drop of WD40 or oil where you drill.
Drill BEFORE you paint and sand as it's easy to hose your paint job if you drill after painting. If you must drill a painted enclosure, drill through blue masking tape so the little curls of aluminum don't cut spirals through the finish.
Measure a lot and make sure your stuff is going to fit and be centered. Pencil and a ruler and blue tape are helpful. If you are doing it a lot you can make a wooden drill template.
Make a starter dent with a punch as mentioned below.
Clamp your enclosure in place before drilling. If you're using a drill press and value your fingers you really gotta do this.
That's all I got. Good luck!
You're going to have a hell of a time keeping the hole round with a dremel. If you don't have a drill press available, hand sand it with some coarse (80 grit or coarser) sandpaper, it'll take a while, but it's much easier to control. Another option is to drill it out with a drill press, clamps and a forstner bit; just have to be sure it's clamped down well and you have it perfectly centered before you start drilling. Easy way to do it is to start with a step drill bit, knock down the top lip to the size you want and drop the forstner bit into the recess at the top before you hog the rest out with the forstner.
Hey friend. you're on the right track with your idea to drill a hole and plumb it to a larger tank. Be careful when you choose the spot to drill. You don't want to drill in to a very round side, as that will be harder to make watertight. i would recommend trying to find a nice flat spot, just below the max fill of that unit's tank, and then drilling a hole for a bulkhead fitting(so that its watertight) and then just attach a hose to the drain end of the fitting and you can just set the other end of the hose in to a 5 gallon bucket below the unit or something.
a 1/2 bulkhead fitting is less than 5$ on amazon(also might not hurt to look around for a smaller sized one of these, as a 1 1/2" hole may be kind of big for this small tank) i only looked around for a second.
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=bulkhead+drain+with+gasket&qid=1565284477&s=gateway&sr=8-15
If you go with this route, i would get a step bit (drill bit for drilling a precise hole by gradually widening it)
https://www.amazon.com/Knoweasy-Sizes-Titanium-Drill-Drilling/dp/B07NKXLTCB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=step+bit&qid=1565284634&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMEU0WExMM0Y1NUNZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQzOTM5RjNOQkZRRFgzUVFXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODExNDgyUEtUR1lBS1NJNzM4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
then you would just need a female 1/2 thread to 1/4" barbed fitting and some 1/4 tubing to run to the bucket. I have similar setups to this for top-off tanks in my hydro systems. If you need any help figuring it out and sourcing parts, just shoot me a message!
Best of luck!!
The following are the parts I'll be purchasing for this build. I think I've covered everything, but as this will be my first custom loop if someone could give it the once over and make sure I'm not forgetting something it would be GREATLY appreciated!
Link to current build
Item | Vendor | Price | Quantity |
---|---|----|----|----
[CE 280](https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-ce-280-dual","EK-CoolStream CE 280) | EK | 75.99 | 1 |
[PE 360](https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-pe-360-triple#ow_alert_box","EK-CoolStream PE 360) | EK | 79.99 | 1 | 1
Corsair SP 120 2-pack | Amazon | 27.99 | x2 |
EK 140 Revo D5 | EK | 163.99 | 1 | text
EK Supremacy EVO | EX | 78 | 1 | text
EK Pump Bracket | EX | 13.49 | 1 | text
MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk EK| Newegg | 569.99 | 1 | text
ATX Bridging Plug | EX | 2.49 | 1 | text
Alphacool Silicon Bending Cord | Amazon | 8.49 | 1 | text
EK-CSQ Plug | EK | 3.49 | x2 | text
EK-AF 6mm M-M Extender | EK | 2.99 | x2 |
EK Ball Valve | EK | 19.99 | 1 | text
EK X Splitter | EK | 8.99 | 1 | text
Heat Gun | Amazon | 17.71 | 1 |
Step Bit | Amazon | 10.85 |1| text
Pipe Cutter | Amazon | 7.99 | 1 | text
EK-HDC 16mm Gold Fitting | EK | 8.99 | x10 |
EK PETG 12/16 Tube | EK | 8.49 | x4 |
Alright, First thing is first. The firewall is the think sheet of metal that separates the inside of the car, from the engine bay.
First thing is first, look at your firewall (The back wall of the engine bay) and try to find out if there is some way to run a thick wire through there.
Look for rubber seals that already have wires running through them.
Also note, you want to run your power wire on the same side of the vehicle as the battery. So if your battery is on the drivers side, you want your power wire to run drivers side. Passenger side battery means you run your power wire on the passenger side of the vehicle.
If you do NOT have an easy or reasonable path to run your power wire, then you drill. You drill CAREFULLY! If you make a mistake, you can end up costing yourself thousands of dollars in damage from 1 little mistake.
Easy way to know where to drill is to use your eyes! LOOK at what you are drilling before you drill! DO NOT DRILL THROUGH SOMETHING IMPORTANT! Use things going through the firewall as guides. If your throttle cable runs from one side of the firewall, and it has a spot above it that looks good to drill, make sure to look at the opposite side of the firewall to make sure you're not going to hit something.
Once you have a hole, use a grommet! (some sort of protective device, rubber or plastic) so the metal doesn't shred the power wire's shielding.
if you're unsure, then drill a pilot hole first, and poke a coat hanger or some kinda rod through it first, if it clears, and you can see that the other side is clear, then you're home free!
I use a step-bit set that looks like this! http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL11040-Step-Drill/dp/B003BZR1Z8/ref=sr_1_17?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1448935934&sr=1-17
Good luck!
For those interested, here's a pic of the inside.
Here's a list of my mods.
Check out the sight glasses at Brew Hardware. I've purchased many items from Bobby, and have had good experiences.
Assuming a weldless application, you'll need a step bit for your drill. The one linked worked great for me. When drilling, use oil to cool the bit and go SLOW or you'll harden the steel.
Bobby's install/calibration videos can be found here and here.
Good luck!
Haha sure thing, its a rather simple mod. All you need is a through hole fitting.
Basically, it allows you to create a pass through on the case where you can screw any type of G1/4 threaded fitting into it. For the plug, you can use any type of G1/4 stop fitting.
The best way to drill the hole is to use what is called a step bit. So you drill a pilot hole with a standard 1/4" bit, and then you use this step bit to step up the size of the hole. If you are only going to be doing it for this build, I would recommend getting the link I provided as most of these bits go for $55 at your local hardware store.
All in all it's easy-peasy. Just be sure you know for sure where you want the port to be before you drill ;).
Now that I’m home and have a minute to type, here’s how I made it:
-I used a step drill bit to cut two 3/4” holes in the mason jar lid. I kept the lid on the jar while drilling, held the jar with one hand and the drill with the other and it worked just fine (I marked the holes with a sharpie before drilling)
-I put in one hookah hose grommet and one “downstem grommet” (I get these from my local ace hardware. You just ask for a rubber grommet with an inner diameter of 1/2”, an outer diameter of 31/32”, and a 3/4” groove, I think the stock number is 55059) in the holes I drilled
-downstem time. I get them from a local smokeshop and I use just regular ol’ glass on glass downstems that work with a 14mm bowl. Before you fit it into the grommet, lube them both up with whatever cooking oil you have on hand (I use coconut oil). Getting the downstem in is the trickiest and scariest part to me but it goes relatively easy if you coat it in oil first
-all set, just put in a 14mm bowl in the downstem and a regular hookah hose in the hookah grommet and you’re good to go
Eta link for hookah grommet
I've looked but i don't see much in those particular proportions.
So, still easy, need to buy a tool though (oh darn, another home depot run!). You're going to want to find a piece of metal that would work there and an NMO mount with no bracket. Then you need to pick up what is called a step bit.
NMO mount: https://www.amazon.com/Browning-WSPBR1015-Enclosed-Hole-Mount/dp/B00BLCLUJ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503520890&sr=1-3 (many brands just an example)
So, how this works is: You drill a 3/4" hole. The outer ring of the NMO mount unscrews, and the rest of it pops up into the 3/4" hole from the bottom. Then you spin the large part on, tighten it down and you're done.
Step bit: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Titanium-Step-Drill-Bit/dp/B00H3Q6KOY/ref=lp_256287011_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503520934&sr=1-3
They're very easy to use and make clean, precise holes. Put it this way, I DIY'd two NMO mounts in the trunk of my 5 series with a step bit and measure-twice-cut-once. Couldn't be happier.
Should be using a stepper bit anyhoo.
Or a reamer.
Or even a file.
Auger bits are for drilling holes, not enlarging holes. Especially in sheet metal / tubing.
I applaud the ingenuity and OP should be happy they got the job done, but others should consider best practices.
friction fit tips are something like a cherry vapes cloud chaser or the ones I got on ebay. It just depends if you like it really airy or not, some don't. Here's the underside of 3 of my tips, the ones with the smaller holes are standard and the same size as the hole in the Stillare. The big hole is a Cherry Vape tip, the hole happens to be around 5/16, so I opened up the stillare to match. Just make sure the hole in the stillare is the same size as your tip, or the top cap will be the limiting hole. To do the actuall drilling I used the long skinny bit from these bits
Get yourself a Millwaukee Hackzall like this one: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.m18-hackzallsupsup-cordless-one-handed-reciprocating-saw.1000730420.html with a reamer like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Greenlee-36414-Multi-8-Inch-Green/dp/B001M0MDIE. That little hackzall is one of my favorite tools I own. Runs through drywall like a hot knife through butter
It's easy to do yourself. If you don't have drill, find a friend who does. Definitely don't pay someone to do it though. it will take 5 minutes. stepbit drill
Drilling the hole is super simple. You just need to know the OD of the drain valve and then get a step drill bit https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_256287011_0&pf_rd_p=0c52eddb-bf3e-5079-a600-1a1baeabeb0f&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=256287011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=FYR4GJFVCFM1TC7P2MP3&pf_rd_r=FYR4GJFVCFM1TC7P2MP3&pf_rd_p=0c52eddb-bf3e-5079-a600-1a1baeabeb0f
That will give you a perfect circle hole for the size that you need.
Just drilled holes in the same kettle.
I used this step bit along with some 3 in 1 oil. It was a breeze! Nowhere near as hard as I had anticipated.
Start out drilling a small pilot hole. For the pilot hole I used a faster drill speed and a small amount of pressure. After that the step bit will easily get through the stainless steel. For the step bit, drill slowly, take breaks to add oil, and use a decent amount of pressure. Each rotation should be making progress, otherwise you are just heating and hardening the steel. Finish stepping up the correct size drilling from the inside of the kettle, this will deburr and flatten the hole.
Good luck!
I didn't drill any holes in the plastic. I drilled and mounted the pass-through fittings to the metal frame on the top, so the plastic covers go on like normal and hide the fittings. You gotta remove all the plastic panels to get to that part of the frame because they all lock together.
I wouldn't mount pass throughs to the plastic cover. You'd have to cut out all the metal underneath it to be able to tighten down the fittings. And the plastic is kinda thin and flimsy.
I used this step drill to drill the holes in the metal frame. A step drill is the easiest way to get clean holes that size (20mm).
edit: if you want holes in the cover just for easy access I'd still use a step drill. A regular drill bit that size would leave some shitty looking holes. A holesaw might work good too.
I did something similar a few months ago, but I used a drill press. They're kind of expensive so I'd ask around for one you can use. You need a step drill bit. Just mark out where you want your holes to be and make sure the cymbal is clamped down nice and tight, then drill away.
River Country!!! To install in the WSM, I had to purchase a unibit and drill out the hole to 13/16" to fit it in, but this thing is affordable and bang-on accurate!!!! Stole the idea from T-Roy Cooks on youtube. Additionally, there's a set-screw type deal in the back where you can calibrate it - so if you wanted it to sit in the hood like I have but actually read what the temp is at the grate level, you can stick a probe in at grate level and calibrate the River Country to read what that reads- so even though it's placed in the top of the smoker, it will read the correct transcribed temp from the grate level. Couldn't recommend this therm enough.
River Country Therm
Unibit Set for drilling
Best to use a step drill like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DB6CG2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_KEz3DbNXHZKFA
I like these types of drill bits, step drills for small metal projects.
They are great for thin metals, especially since I don't do lots of drilling into metals, I can have many different sizes on a few bits.
Oh, guess I misread it. I'm gonna buy one of these but I can't swing it until friday. Any chance you have any green meters left?
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-3-Piece-Titanium-Drill-Steel/dp/B001OEPYWK/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1411584929&sr=1-2 Is this step drill bit good enough? I have everything else unless a simple single-setting plugged in=on soldering pen isn't good/accurate enough and I need something fancier.
Big shout out to the /u/beasthoss guide in the sidebar. Worked like a charm first time. Induction heating really makes the already awesome dynavap experience even better. All parts used are listed below for anyone interested. I did use some t-taps I had laying around but no solder.
Induction Heating Module
Power Supply
Glass Adapter
Momentary Switch
Project Enclosure
Drill Bit
Edit for parts list.
Depending on how big a hole you are making, it might be easier to do it yourself. If you have a decent drill (preferably corded by a nice cordless one will also work), you can get a step drill bit and some cutting oil. You do not need a punch unless you are doing a ton of holes or are doing something very large.
I highly suggest picking up a step drill bit for making holes in cabinets. Makes a cleaner hole then a hole saw and easier too,
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY/ref=lp_256287011_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1573329070&sr=1-4
*A hole that would take me 10 min of frustration with a hole saw is basically as easy as drilling a normal hole with a step drill bit.
Here's a picture of a hole I drilled with that same bit at work. The top "hole" was done by whoever did the installs here. The bottom hole was with that drill bit I linked.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zMBmttDrVssS6h63A
Yes. A cordless Ryobi drill is only around $50. Drill bits and a step bit another $25. A drill is something everyone should own anyway so it would be a worthwhile investment.
I picked up a WinWare aluminum boiling pot for $40 last year, drilled a hole in it (I think that the bit was $20) and installed a $20 valve. Since purchasing it, I've used the bit for two valves, a thermometer, and two sightglass installs.
Edit: The pot
The Bit
The valve
Holiday Deal Valve Alternative
You might be able to find better deals on Cyber Monday, though.
All you need is a drill gun and dish soap (the soap is a nice lubricant so you don't wear the bit down quickly)
Not the best picture, but posting here if anyone is interested.
Here is my setup:
Fogs: H16 XTREME LED PRO FOG LIGHT BULB - YELLOW
Low: H11 HID KIT | XTREME HID | Philips 4300K
Hi: 9005 XTREME LED PRO HEADLIGHT KIT | WITH DRL LED OPTION
Install was pretty easy. The most involved one was the Low beam HID because you need to drill a one inch hole into your dust caps to feed the light and wire through. To do this, I would recommend a stepped drill bit like this one because then you can make the hole slightly smaller than one inch to get a tighter seal. I also used some silicon to really make sure it was sealed to keep moisture out.
If anyone decides they want to do a similar swap and you have questions about the install, just reply here or shoot me a PM.
Get this. Use the one that has the max width of 20mm. Perfect
Truthfully, that is all you need. If you don't have a way to make proper holes in your pot you'll also need a step bit.
On my pot, the rubber that came with the element was enough but you may need separate o-rings (AS568A Dash Number 217).
That's all!
I bought these:
CO-Z 5pcs Hss Cobalt Multiple Hole 50 Sizes Step Drill Bit Set with Aluminum Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0177PN6SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3utODbTY8GTG0
And turned them by hand or very slowly in a drill.
Not OP, but you just need a set of set drill bits and a cordless drill to drill through enclosures. Takes a few seconds to drill through to your desired size!
I've used knockout punches to great effect. You may also be able to use a stepper bit. I'd prefer the former, personally, as it's cleaner. Edit: the latter is probably a bit cheaper. Use oil and don't let it get too hot, it can discolor the steel.
This kit has both but you can find them separately. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KWI5MKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mCUnzb3B06CJ9
I'd give something like one of these a try.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009K8HNOE?psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Simpson-Strong-CRACK-PAC-ACCESORIES-CPFH09KT/dp/B00QKZEWW6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493124180&sr=8-1&keywords=crack+pack
DN 32 - 1¼ - 1.660 in (42.16 mm)
Would be a 1 1/4" hole punch like.
https://www.greenlee.com/products/DIE%2540c-RD-1%2540.250-(43%2540c2)-CONDUIT-(735).html
https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-1-1-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B002NQZ0J0
Are you soldering in or using a bulkhead fitting on your boiler? You could use a step bit to drill out a hole.
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518546407&sr=1-3&keywords=step+bit+for+stainless+steel
> That might be a toughy. I have a 1" drill bit that I used to drill through aluminum and that worked alright, but that was without any paint.
I was going to suggest wet drilling (using cutting oil) and a 1" or variable size HSS drill bit like this.
Something like this should work.
MAGBIT 851.1500 MAG851 1/4-Inch to 1-1/2-Inch Max Diameter High Speed Step Drill Bit, 11 Steps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005M27CGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FBWuDbY7CY3XN
I use a step drill bit like this one:
Neiko 10184A Titanium Step Drill Bit Set, High Speed Steel | 1/4" to 3/4" | Total 9 Step Sizes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RP5Z1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MoS0DbXAXTTZ3
FWIW, I love my Tall Boy kettle, but I did have to invest in a step bit, a bit of cutting oil, and a bulkhead, ball valve, and thermometer and install them myself. Rough total ~$200 and some elbow grease. I also added a whirlpool return and etched some volume markings with this little guy. But I'm a big DIY-er. (and sorry for all the links)
Do you think this set would be alright for me starting out? Comes with a center punch: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Titanium-3-Piece-Automatic-Center/dp/B01DU3UWXI/ref=lp_256287011_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1519217788&sr=1-4
Pretty sure this is the one I use.
There are tools specifically designed to remove stripped screws, but they typically are not as small as a computer/laptop screw. They look like https://www.amazon.com/Drillpro-Damaged-Remover-Extractor-Screwdriver/dp/B017BKZG0A
The only other thing is the rubber band trick, but you've already tried that.
Both of these sets work well. You do get what you pay for....keep that in mind.
Expensive
Norseman Uni-Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036YZWLE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PdTyzb1GGBTKB
Cheap
CO-Z 5pcs Hss Cobalt Multiple Hole 50 Sizes Step Drill Bit Set with Aluminum Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0177PN6SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_reTyzbBCBYFH1
I used a stepped drill bit designed for cutting through sheet metal to cut my NMO mount in the roof of my pickup. Like, one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FZ2UOY/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_9p94tb0NVTVVW
Way easier than trying to align a punch, and no bending of the edges, etc. Took about 10 seconds to line it up and step it out to the right size.
Depends on the material the face plate is made of. If it's metal get a step bit, a decent drill and a drill guide
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY
https://www.amazon.com/wolfcraft-4525404-Muilt-Angle-Attachment-Drills/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519142267&sr=1-5&keywords=drill+guide
those should work.
If it's plastic I'd get some forsner bits depending on what size buttons you want
Bud-boxes, some step drills, and a hand nibbler. Done and done.
or 100 bucks on amazon.ca https://www.amazon.ca/Greenlee-36414-Multi-8-Inch-Green/dp/B001M0MDIE
I'm planning on using this step bit. I have various hole saws, but I've been instructed to use this instead.
You could try a step bit.
http://smile.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY?ie=UTF8&keywords=stepper%20drill%20bit&qid=1464629613&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2
I used a crack injection kit to fix a similar crack in my basement. Took me an afternoon and hasn’t leaked a drop since.
Simpson Strong Tie 9oz CRACK-PAC FLEX H2O KIT W/ACCESORIES (CPFH09KT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QKZEWW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DqcXBb05WKZ5Y
Links to the items used in this build:
https://amzn.to/2SDTHmE Breadbox - available in many colors!
https://amzn.to/2Yd5ARK Multi Charger
https://amzn.to/30OXCjw XT60 Charging Cables
https://amzn.to/2LGBcgH LiPo Balance Boards
Tools to cut the tidy holes:
https://amzn.to/2LGYqTQ Drill Bit
https://amzn.to/2LNxIJF Knockout Punch Kit