Reddit mentions: The best industrial heat-shrink tubing

If you have only a very small number of motorized blinds (I'd say four or less), then Hunter Douglas provides good options to wire them up. You can either install battery packs that need to be serviced every few months, or you can plug in a small power supply. Each of the power supplies can drive up to two blinds. But the extension wires that come with it cannot be longer than about 15ft, and they are not rated for in-wall installation. So, you'll have to deal with them probably being visible.

If you have lots of blinds, the wires look ugly, and you really don't want to take up a gazillion outlets. We have dual stacked blinds (mesh & black-out) in a few places. There clearly aren't enough power outlets to handle that.

Hunter Douglas for better or for worse runs their blinds on 18V -- and their tech support claims that the blinds are pretty sensitive to voltage fluctuations. This has a couple of awkward consequences. 18V power supplies are really unusual. Laptop power supplies would be perfect, but they are all 19V, which according to Hunter Douglas is not acceptable. And other common voltages are 12V or 15V, which are both noticeably too little.

Furthermore, the blinds have relatively high peak currents. Hunter Douglas told me to roughly assume that each blind can require up to about 10W. Took me forever to find a place that sells an 18V/180W power supply, as Hunter Douglas doesn't offer any solution themselves.

Of course, that's the raw circuit board only. You still need an enclosure. I went with a 12V enclosure and modded it. The enclosure is a great size, and you can even reuse the metal shield for the power supply, if you are careful. It also conveniently already comes with all the fuses that you'll need anyway. So, that saves you quite some work. But you do need some tinkering experience to swap out the circuit boards. You probably also need to order a couple of Molex connectors and you'll need to do some crimping and some soldering.

The next problem that you'll run into is that the enclosure needs a cooling fan, but as far as I can tell it is impossible to find 18V fans. I ended up using an ATTiny85 and a MOSFET to PWM the 18V so that I could safely drive the existing fan (make sure to configure the micro-controller for FastPWM, or you'll have to deal with an ugly humming noise!). And while at it, I also added a temperature sensor, so the fan only turns on, when needed. You also need a small DC-DC converter to power the microcontroller. And if you don't already have a way to program Atmel chips, you'll need to buy a programmer. EBay has lots of cheap options, too. All of this definitely takes some amount of tinkering skills that not everybody will have, though.

Overall, building a proper power supply and distribution box cost me just over $200 in parts. Not too bad. But the amount of time spent getting it to work was ridiculous. Especially if you add up all the time researching which parts I needed to buy in the first place. I really don't understand why Hunter Douglas couldn't sell ready-made power supplies for installing multiple PowerView blinds. Even if they charged $500 for the ready-made box, that wouldn't be entirely unreasonable -- and that would be a huge mark up and make them quite some profits. In bulk, each supply should cost less than $100 to manufacture.

The next problem is finding appropriate cables. At those low voltages, currents are going to be high, and if you have anything more than trivially short runs, you'll encounter significant voltage drops. Since Hunter Douglas said that sticking as close as possible to 18V is crucial, you'll inevitably have to install beefier wires. Hunter Douglas recommends 14AWG for powering up to two blinds, or 16AWG when powering a single blind. I had good luck with buying Monoprice in-wall speaker cable for this purpose. Get the four-conductor version to minimize the number of cables that you need to string.

Ideally, you want to avoid splicing the cables. And in many cases, if you plan carefully, you'll be able to do that just fine. But sometimes, splices are simply unavoidable (for instance, when joining 16AWG cables to an 14AWG cable). I find WAGO connectors work really well for this purpose; unlike wirenuts, they can be used both with and without ferrules. And they work well for stranded wires, where wirenuts sometimes fail.

The blinds have barrel connectors, and Hunter Douglas suggests buying plugs with screw connectors. That is a good suggestion in principle, but I find it is impossible to securely fasten the speaker cables in the screw connectors, unless you use ferrules. And that means, you'll also need to buy a crimping tool. And for good measure, you should probably shrink wrap the entire contraption afterwards. High currents means you want secure connections.

Ideally, you should run all the cables inside the walls. But that's not always possible. If you can't, then you'll need to staple them instead. Make sure to use the right staples. I asked my electrician to help in order to meet my schedule; in hindsight, that didn't work out so well. He sent me his apprentice, who promptly proceeded to run each and every staple straight through the cable. Ouch. We had to redo all the wiring.

Now, my next project is thinking of a solution to hide the Hunter Douglas remote inside of a Decora wall switch. The remote is OK, but it looks a little cheesy when wall-mounted. As I said before, PowerView blinds are fine in principle and they are probably better than most competing products, but they do feel a little unfinished at this time. When they do work though, they are really convenient.

You could make a welded loop yourself if you like them that much.

All you need is a $15 heat gun and some polyolefin heat shrink tubing.
https://www.amazon.com/NTE-Electronics-47-20306-CL-Shrink-Tubing/dp/B007Z7XJG8/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1491228762&sr=8-1&keywords=clear+polyolefin+heat+shrink+tubing

The front 2 feet or so of any floating fly line is a level taper to give you a section to cut into as the line ages. To make a welded loop to loop connection, use a razorblade to slice the end of the fly line on a bias (about a 60 degree angle works best). Slide the tubing on the end of the line then fold the tip over and insert it back. I'd recommend about an inch of fusion space for max strength, but cut the tubing a little longer so you have working room, especially on the line-side, where you need the best fusion to keep the tip of the loop tacked down. Leave about 1/4" sticking out the end as the loop -- it doesn't need to be too big.

Two things are needed to fuse PVC fly line: heat (to liquefy the PVC jacket, but not so much as to scorch it) and pressure, which is what the heat shrink tubing actually does. (I am getting this info directly from the 3M lab technicians, by the way).

Using your heat gun, which is like a more powerful hair dryer, slowly waft the heat back and forth over the tubing. The heat shrink tubing will, well, shrink, thus capturing the PVC jacket of the fly line, which will soften and liquefy and then fuse. The tubing is more of a mold than anything. It just takes a little bit of practice and it is really not difficult. When it's all locked up, let it cool for 15 minutes or so then very carefully cut the tubing off using sharp tying scissors. It will unpeel pretty easily, leaving you with a factory-quality fuse.

I did a break strength test on these for Fly Rod & Reel a few years ago, and shockingly they are roughly three times stronger than a nail knot. (My home cooked fuses survived being pulled to the full 20 lb. break strength rated for the line core three times before failure. A nail knot failed at 12 lbs. of pull on average).

When a fused line fails, the way it fails is for the back end of the fusion to begin to separate and curl. That's why it is very important to get that section tacked how as strongly as possible, and also why the 60 degree cut helps at the beginning.

Have fun!

Carbon rod. I joined the two pieces with a 3D-printed bushing around a ¼-20 stainless bolt, nesting into another 3D-printed bushing with a thermoset insert. This means that the staff can be broken down for storage or transport and that a camera can be mounted at half- or full-length.

LED strip.

This is the one that I used, but the radius of the rod is tight enough that the waterproofing rubber split and peeled off a bit. If I were making another one, I would go with the non-waterproof version. Either way, sheathing the whole pole in heat-shrink is probably a good move. I used this in 1-1/2 inch but smaller woul've worked.

To allow the staff to break in two and still work, I cut the strip and soldered on MT-30s via short wire leads. Worked great!

The camera is an insta360 One X. It's fine for what it is. Good for serious videography. The Samsung Gear 360 looks like a very nice, chesper alternative, and has video looping, so it'd be great in a "dashcam" role.

Here's the basic parts list to build a bucket like this:

• 2x 5 Gal buckets with lids (one for res, one for light top.) More buckets for spacers. (check your home improvement store of choice.)
  
• A big roll of black duct tape. This
  
• A roll of FlexFix tape. This
  
• A couple of space blankets. This
  
• A can of 3M spray adhesive. This is the good stuff
  
• 5x light sockets with plug ends. These
  
• 5x Philips SlimStyle LED "75w" 2700k. These
  
• Some heatshrink tubing. Looks good
  
• Some lamp cord and hookup wire. This, And This
  
• A roll of flux/rosin core solder. Your Choice, this looks okay
  
• An airpump. This one is awesome, This will do
  
• Some airstones. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLA83C/)
  
• A distribution manifold. At least a 3 way
  
• Some air lines. This, Or This
  
• A length of 3/4" pvc pipe and a plug (check your home improvement store of choice).
  
• A water dripper system. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JAY6E/)
  
• Either a netpot and a bucket lid with a hole cut in it OR a premade netpot/bucket lid. This if you want to save some work
  
• Some PC fans. [These are nice and cheap] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTUJZ36/)
  
• A PSU to run the fans and LED strip side lights you might add on spacers. This. It's 80+ at least. I had a few extra PSUs around. I wouldn't use one that isn't at least 80+ since it will be running 24/7.
  
  Lots of this stuff can be had cheaper at a home improvement or pet store. Check around. You'll need a soldering iron (I like my adjustable 40w), a drill and drill bits up to 3/4" (I like step bits for work on plastic), a heatgun or lighter to shrink that heatshrink tubing. An infrared thermometer is nice to have and can tell you the temp of your nutrients, the plant itself, your lights, etc...Just make sure to calibrate it first, all the cheap ones are inaccurate by at least a few degrees.
  

I started out with something like this. I used Z-line instead of braided cord, but it's really personal preference. Nylon is nice because it's soft and comfy, though it may slip easier than other ropes because it's got less tooth (so some kinds of knots work better than others). The advantage of having a long length to begin with is that you can choose what lengths you'd like to cut from it. 6' and 12' lengths work well for most limb ties, depending upon what you're doing, but you'll probably need 20, 30, even 50 foot lengths if doing more intricate body harnesses. If you're not sure what you're interested in just yet, do a few shorter lengths and then one or two longer ones. Once you cut the lengths to your liking, you can slip some heat shrink tubing over the ends and run a lighter over them a few times to seal the ends and keep the rope from fraying.

I also recommend Jay Wiseman's "Erotic Bondage Handbook" as it not only gives a great overview of a lot of different ties, but also focuses the first 1/3 of the book on things you'll need to keep in mind for safety and comfort. There are things that can go wrong, but it's not much to worry about as long as you learn from the experience and mistakes of people who've been in the scene a while.

OK, here is the short and dirty version. If you need more info, I can give it to you. I'll assume you know the bare essentials of coding, and soldering. This subreddit seems like they don't mind a bit of DIY and learning. There are 2 versions. One has a color changing blade, the other doesn't. The only downside to this DIY is that the LED in the blade could be brighter. I am currently experimenting with different lighting types to see what's best.

For a saber with color-changing ability, buy this wishlist:

https://www.adafruit.com/wishlists/491218

and also this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ONOI9K2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For a saber with no color changing ability, buy this wishlist:

https://www.adafruit.com/wishlists/492907

and also this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ONOI9K2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

________________________________________________________________________________________________________

You will also need a soldering iron, some wires to put stuff together, and if you're fancy, some heat-shrink tubes. You'll also need a computer with internet access and a USB-microUSB cable that has data-transmission capabilities. Any moderately expensive USB cable usually has data functionality as well. Here is a list of stuff that would get you on your way:

Guide on how to get your microcontrollers up and running:

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-m0-express-designed-for-circuit-python-circuitpython/kattni-circuitpython

Easy-detach wires

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075K4HLTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heat-shrink

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PCQ2LW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Now follow this guide to put it together:

https://learn.adafruit.com/lightsaber-featherwing/circuit-diagram

We're not using a neopixel, so don't worry about that part. Just stick with the LED wiring. This part will take experimentation, so take your time and test-test-test. This guide will help with additional wiring and coding questions:

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-prop-maker-featherwing

Now use this code if you're doing a color changing blade. If you're not, you can keep the code as is, and just manually set the saber color you desire:

https://github.com/robert1233/lightsaber/blob/master/code.py

And you should be good to go! I'm still working on perfecting the code. I'm still learning as well, but this works. The guide I based this off is:

https://learn.adafruit.com/lightsaber-featherwing/software

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Features: micro-USB charging, color changing blade, sound and motion sensor for: startup, shut down, idle, swing, clash. Light up power button.

Cons: This has only been tested with a full-size ultrasabers blade. The LED could be brighter. I'm still working on that.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Tips:

Sound files that I used can be found here. Use at your own discretion:

https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=41379.0

The hardest part of this build is the soldering. If you are comfortable with that and you are willing to do some reading, this is very easy to do. I had pretty much no electronic background and was able to figure all this out in about a month.

Make sure you use the short headers for soldering the feather and wing together! This is very important or the microcontroller may not fit into your hilt! Test twice, solder once.

Don't veer off the wishlist. Everything I picked is low profile and allows for maximum space and flexibility. I went with as much plug and play as I could. The battery, speaker, and charger are all plug-ins. The LED, power button, and color-changing potentiometer require soldering.

If you are going the color changing route, you may have to drill a hole wherever you want the color-changer to be.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I'll upload photo's whenever I can. Like I said, I'm working on finding a better lighting source, so right now everything is taken apart.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I take no responsibility if you shock, burn, or stab yourself; or ruin your lightsaber or any electronic components. This is a guide on how I made the inside of my lightsaber and no more.

Wire:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J639G74/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cotton:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X6PQJ2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

battery wraps for custom designs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018I08UKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Coil wrapping kit: https://www.amazon.com/Coil-Master-Authentic-Tweezers-Resistant/dp/B01GWD5GCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486692532&sr=8-1&keywords=vape+tool+kit

These are all items i have bought and use. some other things i didnt list because it doesnt seem like they are sold anymore for whatever reason. I didnt list other things since they are vape related but not exclusivly for vaping like a vice or drill.

edit added the coil kit. i didnt buy this from amazon but i won it in a giveaway here on ECR a few months back. its the exact same kit and i love it. carry it everywhere.

The kit is also perfect if you need one or were looking to get a new one since its sitting right at that 50 dollar mark

> Well shit didn't think about that with the controller. Here is exactly what I ordered.http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-th9x-r9b-9channel-radio.html

According to the description it comes with a receiver.

> Just bought 2 of the 3S 5500mAh 30-40C

That should do you nicely.

> Any other random things you think we will need

Using amazon links and favoring prime options even if a few $$ more. The most cost effective way to get any of the below would be ebay and slow free shipping.

• Double sided mounting tape to help hold the ESCs, receiver, or flight controller in place. I do NOT use the "heavy duty" or "permanent" mounting tape as you may want to move things around or swap out parts at some point. My preference is the 3M/Scotch Clear Mounting Tape as I find to easy to remove from the surface. Should be able to find the mounting tape at hardware store or even a target/walmart.
  
• Heat shrink tubing
  
• You'll need a way to connect your batteries to your power distribution board. The batteries you picked use a Dean-Style T Connector. You'll need to make a connector cable like this to attach to your power dist board. - Image. You can either make your own cable from scratch or cut and repurpose existing cables.
  
• From "Scratch" - Connectors + Wire + some heat shrink and soldering time.
  
• Repurpose - Buy one of these, cut off the unneeded end, and solder to the S550's power distribution board. http://www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-Tamiya-Charge-Adapter/dp/B0035OYLU8/
  
• Parallel battery connector. Gives you the option to either run one or two 5500mAh batteries. Making a 11000mAh for long flights - http://www.amazon.com/Deans-Ultra-Battery-Harness-Parallel/dp/B000RGZ07A/
  
  
• If your radio receiver doesn't come with servo leads you'll need them to connect between the radio receiver and the flight controller (and gimbal)
  
• Short - http://www.amazon.com/deep-deal-10cm-Servo-Extension-Cable/dp/B00BL0YGS0/
  
• Extension - http://www.amazon.com/VIMVIP-Female-Futaba-Extension-Control/dp/B00N8P8TT8/ Might be needed to run leads to the gimbal for tilt control. Prime... so you can wait on this till you know if the other servo cables will be long enough.
  
  
• Battery straps. I'm running out the door so can't search/grab more links right now, but you'll need some velcro straps to hold the battery or batteries in place.
  
  
• You'll want to check ebay for extra S550 arms if you haven't already. Shipping will take a while, but they are cheap and good to have some spare arms, as they will break. Alternate front/back/side colors are nice to help maintain orientation in the sky.
  
  
• Extra props is you haven't ordered any. NOTE: The DJI E310 Power set uses the newer 9450 DJI props instead of the older 9443
  
  

sorry for deleting my comment but im back now with better prices and information.

bongs you will LOVE:
http://www.dhgate.com/product/mobius-glass-bongs-with-removable-mouth-piece/390473899.html#mfavit-1-null

http://www.dhgate.com/product/new-sheldon-black-glass-bubbler-w-derby-bowl/384091850.html

http://www.dhgate.com/product/mobius-glass-bongs-with-removable-mouth-piece/390217553.html#s1-11-1b;searl|3888747151

http://www.dhgate.com/product/real-photo-birdcage-inline-perc-recycler/266659584.html#mfavit-10-null

http://www.dhgate.com/product/newest-build-a-bong-design-3-pieces-glass/393621482.html#mfavit-14-null

whip adapters, you might need a joint adapter too for some bongs:
http://www.dhgate.com/product/1pc-universal-glass-vaporizer-whip-for-replacement/258872706.html#s1-4-1b;searl|1567849641

http://www.dhgate.com/product/14mm-18mm-19mm-glass-vapor-whip-adapter-female/387049449.html#s1-0-1b;searl|1567569617

foodsafe silicone tubing from amazon i recommend you use, might not be the right size so just measure the original chinese one:
https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Meters/dp/B06WVBSLCZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501383980&sr=8-3&keywords=silicone+food+safe+tubing

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  

• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  

  
  

  And here's the part list!
  

  
  

  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  

  ---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

This is a cool little website that helps to design solar systems and battery banks. Since you have 12V batteries and a 12V inverter, you'll need to wire the batteries in parallel, this will add their capacities and keep the voltage the same. When wiring these together it is important to keep the wire length between batteries the same, this is because there is resistance in the wire, so if one battery wire has more resistance than another, then it will draw a bit more power to equal the other battery and over time this can cause issues. This website explains the wiring issues and shows a little diagram of how you should wire your four batteries for your specific case.

So you can use the first website to show how the battery bank should be wired, and use the second website to see how to correctly wire it. Buying wires like this will mean they're already at the same length, but you may only need 8awg or 6awg wire for your purposes (look at wire gage sizing charts). For my two-battery bank I'll be crimping my own connectors onto wire from the hardware store that I cut into equal lengths, usually a cheaper option is to just make your own sets. A forum about a guy asking about battery wiring.

Fusing is also important, you don't want an accidental short happening in your inverter and your 6Kwh battery bank dumping hundreds of amps into it. Again there are many websites offering advice, this one is what I based my fusing off from, I'm only using one solar panel though so I'm only needing one fuse for that. Smaller ones for the solar panels and bigger ones for the batteries and to the inverter I believe the best way is to fuse each battery and then fuse the entire bank as well 5 fuses total). Slow-burn fuses are recommended.

Basically I would say use www.Google.com as a strong resource and post further questions you might have that you can't find the answers to (or can't find simple answers to).

Credit to this youtube video for the idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xfy2Ae_9tTQ

I've been trying to find a way to Texas rig a Ned Rig to make it weedless and have had trouble finding some affordable light wire hooks with a bait keeper. I found the above linked youtube video and tried it out this evening and it seems to work great! I picked up a variety pack of heat shrink tubing from Harbor Freight for $5. The smallest size, 5/64", worked best and you could definitely go smaller to 1/16" or maybe 3/34" and it might even hold a bit tighter. I tried it with a TRD and it worked fine, I just cut the top/outer corner so it was easier to get the plastic over

Sorry if this is old news but just wanted to share this very cheap way of adding a bait keeper.

Edit: I just looked on Amazon and found this pack of heat shrink tubing: https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-270Pcs-Shrink-Adhesive-Tubing/dp/B073R69KNB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525832477&sr=8-3&keywords=adhesive+lined+heat+shrink+tubing+1%2F16 I would expect that it would work better being a 3:1 shrink ratio and also is adhesive lined which I don't think the HF tubing has.

These precut heat shrink tubing off Amazon. First time trying this, so I have nothing to compare them against, probably something better out there, but they worked just fine.

Underneath is just cheap printer paper through a color laser printer. All the shine is coming from the clear tubing. Could probably improve the quality further by using better/shinier paper but that stuff is also thicker and I don't know how close these tolerances are before it will no longer fit in a mod box. With just the paper added its already a noticeable tighter fit. Higher quality paper might put it over the edge into not fitting.

A couple of things come to mind:

A) Cool.

B) Instead of drilling through your stencils, I recommend using a finishing nail or an awl and banging pilot divots. This centers and guides the drill bit, and keeps you from killing your stencil, just in case.

3) Try heat shrink tubing. It's not terribly expensive, it's fun to use, and it makes you look clever.

D) In the event that you ever want people to think that you are very clever, get a decent soldering iron. If you have a lot of extra money to throw around, get a fancy Weller station. If not, I recommend the adorable Hakko FX-888. Now that the analog version has been discontinued, it's hard to find on sale, but... they're fantastic. If you want to feel fancy, you could get something like this. Look at all those bits! I don't know either!

Sorry for the late reply. First of all, take all of this with a grain of salt. This is my first build, so I am by no means an expert. You should definitely look in to all this on your own rather than blindly trust my purchases.
Here are the tools I got in my Amazon order:

• Wire Stripper
  
• No Clean Flux Paste
  
• XT60 Connectors
  
• 60/40 Rosin Core Solder
  
• Loctite Threadlocker 242 (blue)
  
• Weller 40 Watt soldering station
  
• Solder tip cleaner
  
• Helping hand with LED
  
• Bullet connectors
  
• Liquid electrical tape
  
• Heatshrink variety pack
  
• Chisel tip for soldering iron
  
• Servo cables
  
• 12/14/16 AWG silicone wire
  
• Zip ties
  
  I hope this helps.
  
  

Oh I'm still talking about 3s - in fact this is the exact battery I'm using, but to each their own.

What kv are those motors? Also, how wide are your esc's? The size of the heat shrink depends on the size of your stuff. I believe I used this heat shrink for my esc's, but mine are pretty small. If you want to be safe I recommend a set of heat shrink such as this or this.

I personally don't use braided wire but I've herad that this one isn't too bad.

Make sure to get that power supply! It'd be a very sad thing if you get can't charge your batteries but have everything else done.

I used TechFlex 1/8" 25 feet from Amazon.

I used VKTech heatshrink.

I could have done a much better job on the heatshrink on both ends of the cable, however I didn't have time to use my heat gun so I used my Zippo with a Thunderbird butane insert.

It turned out pretty good in my opinion, however like I said, I could have done a much better job.

This is actually something I began last year and have only really posted a few teasers here and there. Well now that I've finally had time to clean it up and go back and add in the original cable I figured I'd share it with you all.

This "Stealth SD Mod" as I'm calling it, uses a MicroSD card and reader, however, you could just as easily use a small USB thumb drive in place of the MicroSD card and reader.

The way the stock USB cable connects to the inside of the controller actually presented itself as quite a problem, and not wanting to cut the cable, or destructively dremel away any of the controller (mainly due to my OCD) only made things harder. Fortunately, I was able to find a solution. Once assembled, this non destructive mod is Plug & Play.

This is actually an early prototype of something a little more advanced I'm working on.

Parts Required

• Nano Hub
  
• Micro USB Male to USB Female OTG Adapter Converter
  
• Micro USB Breakout Signals Board
  
• Kingston G2 USB 2.0 microSDHC Flash Memory Card Reader FCR-MRG2
  
• Heat Shrink Tubing (Optional, but recommended)
  
  You'll also need some wire, solder, a soldering iron and of course a Philips screwdriver (1.5x30mm works for me) to open the controller.
  
  Checkout this gallery for more images.
  
  

  F.A.Q.
  

  
  

• Question: Does the controller have to be connected to Port 2?
  
  Answer:
  >Currently yes it must be connected to Port 2 (Player 2). The reason for this is when connected to Port 1 the system doesn't recognize the controller. This is something I think we can fix in a future update.
  
  
  
• Question: Does the controller still function as a controller?
  
  Answer:
  >Yes, absolutely. Keep in mind however that the draw does exceed the allowed amount, so the USB Current Limit Mod is still required.
  
  
  
• Question: What about USB Brown-outs?
  
  Answer:
  >While the power draw on this is incredibly low you'll still need to perform the USB Current Limit Mod in order to use this (Or use a hub, but that sort of defeats the purpose).
  
  
  
• Question: Can you still use port 2 for other things like USB Thumb-drives, hubs etc?
  
  Answer:
  >Yes, absolutely.
  
  
  
• Question: Can I bring my modded controller to a friends and play on their system with it?
  
  Answer:
  >Only if they have a powered USB hub or have performed the USB Current Limit Mod
  
  
  
• Question: Does it throw off the balance of the controller at all?
  
  Answer:
  >The difference in weight is negligible (Stock 130g vs modded 136g).
  

I bought this pack of 3:1 in various sizes, and it's the one in the top middle row. I'm not sure what size it is, though I'll have to figure it out soon cause I'm running out and I use that size the most. I highly recommend 3:1 when connecting things that are very different sizes (like the sennheiser connectors to the cable), it helps secure much better.

Edit: Please make sure you turn off and unplug your power supply before cutting any wires.

Parts / tool list below, this what i used but there are substitutes out there.

Note: Main thing that is slightly challenging is soldering the XT60s, basic idea is to “tin” (soldering term) the wires and the XT60s first, then heat the connector with your iron as you put the wire in to get a good fusion. Decent video on soldering them:solder XT60s


My soldering Iron:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZRT4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Flux:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ZIV85A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder (60-40)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G1J3W6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New XT-60’s and Shroud:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PN6N4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Helping Hands (not required, but def helpful)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB38X8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bought this a while ago, but any heat shrink will do:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA3OFA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wire - If you’re new to soldering and need practice, or you’re going to split your cables for Rasberry Pi, or other components, etc:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABOPMEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/46c99s/a_guide_to_making_custom_battery_wraps_for_idiots/

20pcs 29.5mm 18.5mm PVC Heat Shrink Tubing for 1 x 18650/18500 Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018I08UKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9cXpzbQDYWTBP

Here's the process I used 😁 Super easy

On This Guide it only shows it being done to the Power which I found weird. You did it to the "Hotbed" one next to that as well?

That guide also suggests getting this Heat Shrink but that is included with the connectors?

Thank you very much for the information, that is very helpful!

at first I just let them go however they wanted, as I was swapping between my HD598s and my M50Xs. However, once I decided to use my HD598s 100% of the time for my computer, I initially just threw a few zipties to hold them together, and then I eventually bought some shrink wrap like this, and used a heat gun/lighter to do a nicer job combining the cables. You could sleeve it like this for unique colors/better look

Hello, I was just about to order a couple days ago, then figured I should ask you all here on /r/Multicopter if you have any recommendations for changes. I can solder and have tools, is there anything that I am missing here for a complete setup? Oh I also already own a Spektrum DX6i with two Spektrum AR610 receivers.

item | link | price
-|-|-
AV transmitter/receiver | Boscam 32Ch 5.8G 600mw 5km Wireless AV Transmitter TS832 Receiver RC832 for FPV | $35.63
Charger | Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Dual Power 6Amps 60Watts Profess​ional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Disc​harger (Version RCLITE) w/ Micro USB Port For RC Lipo Battery Cherge, Temperature Port | $36.58
Heat shrink | uxcell® 1 Meter 50mm Dia Ratio 2:1 Heat Shrinkable Shrinking Tube Black | $6.66
Flight Controller | AbuseMark Acro Naze32 Rev 6 Flight Controller W/ Straight / Bent Pin Headers, Breakout Cable, & Apex RC Products Nylon Standoffs | $39.99
Frame | YKS DIY Full Carbon Fiber Mini C250 Quadcopter Frame Kit for FPV Mini Quadcopter Part | $37.99
Motors | 4pcs EMAX RS2205 2300KV Brushless Motor 2CW 2CCW for QAV250 QAV300 FPV Racing Quadcopter | $78.79
ESC's | Crazepony 4pcs Littlebee 20A Mini ESC Oneshot125 Electronic Speed Controller 2-4S Brushless for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter | $39.99
Props | Hooshion® 16 pcs 8 pairs GemFan HD HQ 5030 5x3 CW CCW Propeller for Mini QAV250 Quadcopter (Black+Orange) | $12.59
Connectors | XT60 Drone Connectors 5 Pairs (5 Male and 5 Female) | $2.96
Battery | Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack | $16.70
AV Antenna | Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug | $10.98
Camera | SC2000 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera SONY Super HAD CCD for FPV, 2.8mm Lens, IR Blocked Filter | $33.99
| total | $352.85

[Heat-shrink tubing] (https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-SHRINK-SLEEVES-ASSORTED/dp/B005W42SW2/).

When I put on new strings, I always slide a 1/2" section of the tiniest heat-shrink tubing that I can find over my upper strings. To make sure you get it in the correct spot, lay your string across the nut like you are going to string it up, mark the spot on the string about a 1/2" after then nut, then slide the heatshrink over the string to that spot and heat it with a lighter, heat gun or HOT hairdryer. It will look nice and more importantly, dampen and and all vibrations after the nut.

Ended up getting the transformerto fit in the old box. Working fine at 16V 30va setting of the transformer (vs 24V). Used 3 pairs of wire total with this heat shrink tubing and these heat shrink solder wire connectors. Thanks all.

• 6" 20 AWG shielded instrument cable: $0.21
  
• (2) 1/4" mono plug: $1.53
  
• (1) heat shrink tubing (cut in half): $0.02
  
• Total: $1.76
  
  I forgot to factor in shipping for the cable in the total in the title.
  
  Edit: I want to share this cost savings with people and thought this would be the best subreddit to do so. If it isn't, please let me know.

You guys are awesome!!! This is exactly what I need!!

Do I need to buy a heat gun or could I get away with a hair drier? lol


Link to video - process

Link to heat gun on amazon

Link to Heat Shrink Tubing Sleeve - prob should order the correct dimensions or cable

Here is my Intro

Ill add a pic once I get out of class!

No Diggity

And on the off chance that I win, either Red Diggity or Blue Diggity

Edot: Of course I forgot haha

A few weeks ago I used the marine heat shrink on my sparrows picks since I didnt have any success with Plasti Dip. I does feel nice, and I don't think ive lost any feedback or sensitivity on them.

For anyone who's interested here's what I used, I just needed to trim them to the appropriate length:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073R69KNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Buy techflex
  
• Buy oxygen free copper wire
  
• Buy some banana plugs
  
• Buy heat shrink tubing
  
  There ya go. Make your own or spend lots and lots of money.

I have this exact set from Amazon. You'll need the 1.5 mm (approx 1/16") heatshrink tubing from the set. My original comment has a link to the tutorial, which mentions the dimensions as well.

It looks like regular clear heat shrink, though now that I think of it, my clear tube is a bit more flexible (and more prone to tearing when shrinking sometimes) than the regular stuff. This is what I bought, I don't know if it's exactly what you're looking for but it does seem close to what those battery buzzers come with.

Amazon has them. If you have prime it would be your fastest cheapest route.

Edit: Here's what I got - 240 wraps, assorted colors, nice and thick - $11.80

Here's 300 for $8.50 Can't vouch for their quality though.

Amazon, hardware stores. Stuff is everywhere in the electrical sections.

Best part is that if it doesn’t work, or if it affects your closure too much, then you can just cut it off.

here

For hiding the mustard and ketchup cables, I would recommend getting a Silverstone cable extension. You can get them in every colour, and they're compatible with every PSU. You just stick them on the ends of your PSU cables to extend them, but with a nicer colour

Like this 24pin

Unless you want to buy a new CPU cooler, there's not much you can do to hide the exposed cables of the stock one. My only idea would be to buy some Cable heat shrink wrap and cover it that way

i grabbed one during the sale as well; it should arrive tuesday. here are some things i ordered that were recommended on several guides i found online:

Purchased physical:

• Light Emitter Tripods
  
  
• Magnetic braided USB Charging Cables for the Controllers
  
  
• Shrink tubing for the HMD cable
  
  
• Braided sleeve for the HMD cable
  
  
• Washable HMD cover
  
  Purchased games:
  
  
• tilt brush
  
• space pirate trainer
  
• serious sam vr
  
• raw data
  
• project cars
  
• universe sandbox 2
  
• subnautica
  
  Bundled with my Vive order:
  
  
• zombie training simulator
  
• the gallery - episode 1

Isint 3/4" the heatshrink and 1/2" the sleeving? Do you know we would need a smaller heatshrink or sleeving?

I was thinking of getting this sleaving:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLEXO-PET-Expandable-Braided-Sleeving-Wire-Cable-Sleeve-Loom-10FT-25FT-Feet-/141743771843?var=&hash=item21009650c3:m:mA_pHsTsShuJLw2Ey8mUeLw

What size braided sleeving would you recommend for the new 3 in 1 cable?

and this heatshrink:
https://www.amazon.ca/Install-Bay-3MHST34-Shrink-Tubing/dp/B0053PYDFA

Would this size heatshrink work for the new cable?

i can appreciate a real hardwood floor...

https://www.amazon.com/ThreeBulls-240pcs-29-5mm-18-5mm-Battery/dp/B01I6OU8YY/ref=lp_15069575011_1_2?srs=15069575011&ie=UTF8&qid=1493095501&sr=8-2

amazon prime, you can have em in 2 days... and youll have enough wraps for a lifetime, and enough to give out to others who need them...

Nice find Op!

Might want to look into heat shrink the keep those clips together.

Ginsco 580 pcs 2:1 Heat Shrink Tube 6 Colors 11 Sizes Tubing Set Combo Assorted Sleeving Wrap Cable Wire Kit for DIY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFA3OFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uU53AbJP0KQHA

Do you mean how to connect the 2 sets of 4 wires and cover it so it looks clean?

I do this - The 4 wires are all soldered together and then individually taped with electric tape or covered with heat shrink and then the whole thing is covered with heat shrink tubing.

Thanks for the help! I don't have a background in Mech Engineering (?), but I think I understand those instructions. Would this kit of shrink tubing do the trick?

AmazonLink

Nonononono. No aluminum foil.

First, you'll need some heat shrink tubing of the appropriate size.

http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-SHRINK-SLEEVES-ASSORTED/dp/B005W42SW2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1463080614&sr=8-7&keywords=heat+shrink+tubing

Then, you should trim the cable a bit on both ends to clean up the messy ends.

Next, cut open the cable sleeve the wires are in, and strip the ends of the wires. Put a piece of shrink wrap tubing large enough to fit on the outside of the entire cable along one end of the cable. You'll use that later.

Then, you'll have cables that look like this

}=]--

} is the sheath

= is the covered wire

] is where you stripped the wire

-- is the naked wire

Take one of the wire, and push the shrink wrap tubing up it. Then, take the two stripped ends of matching wire and solder them together so that they overlap a bit.

}=]-@--@-[={

@ are the solder points

Move the shrink wrap tubing over the soldered wire and hit it with a hair dryer until it tightly covers the exposed wire.

Do that with each of the wires. Test that the cable works.

Once you have confirmed it is working, take the shrink wrap tubing you put over the whole cable sheath, bring it over area that no longer has sheathing (where your wires were soldered and shrink wrapped) and hit the tubing with a hair dryer to seal it up.

You should be good to go. I left out the mesh tubing or additional insulation for the newly heat shrunk wires, but you could add that as well - not something I am familiar with.

They have rolls on Amazon

Uxcell a12080700ux0466 Polyolefin 2:1 Halogen-Free Heat Shrink Tubing, 2 m, 6.5', 25 mm Diameter, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IILEVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UOX4ybZ4QD60D

Here you are, my friend: Amazon

I bought 275 paracord and cut it to 4 equal lengths, and then took out the inner strands. Then I used 26 AWG wire, threaded it through the paracord sleeving which took a little bit of time. Then soldered the 4 ends to a 1/4 in jack. At this point I braided the 4 strands together, chose how long before my y split, then just twisted the two sets of wire and soldered the 650 terminals on. I also made sure to have heat shrink, so I bought the most popular amazon set.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009IILEVY/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U I found this. 25mm heatshrink is supposed to be good (approximately 1 inch).

Any non adhesive lined heat shrink that is 3/4" before being shrunk will work.
So something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-3MHST34-Shrink-Diameter/dp/B0053PYDFA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467917023&sr=8-4&keywords=3%2F4%22+heat+shrink+tubing

Nice van!

Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.

Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY

This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)

Other items I used...

• Continuous Duty Solenoid
  
• Heavy Gauge Wire 2 AWG
  
• Ring Terminals for Heavy Gauge Wire
  
• ANL Fuse Holder
  
• ANL Fuses 100 Amp
  
• Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Terminals and Connectors for Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Heat Shrink Assortment
  
• Circuit breaker (alternative to ANL fuses, works as master disconnect too)
  
• Fuse Block (for all devices connected to house battery)

Here is a parts list for those interested

Nema 5-15r To C14

Voltmeter Analog Panel Meter

Shrink Tubing

32GB MicroSD

Raspberry Pi 3 + Power Supply

MCP4725 Breakout Board

TCA9548 I2C Multiplexer

RJ45 Extender

22AWG Wire

Plastic 2U Box

Heat shrink tubing. http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-SHRINK-TUBING-SLEEVES-ASSORTED/dp/B005W42SW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372787908&sr=8-1&keywords=large+heat+shrink+tubing
If you shrink it on the end of the cord that might help.

Yup, I bought a 240 pack in all different colors, and just give them away, and help apply them for anyone I know who might need one.

should try some clear shrink tubing instead of the gloss.

What's on the plug side?

Maybe something like this. Seems to have a high shrink ratio along with adhesive on the inside to prevent future slippage.

Here is how NASA would splice that wire :). All you need is a decent soldering iron and a little bit of solder. Do it outside, especially if you are using lead based solder. A little heat shrink tubing and you can have that cord back in working order, even if it's a tiny bit shorter :).

There should be two wires inside that cord though: one for positive, and one for negative- make sure not to let these wires touch each other!

And you easily fix it with a piece of shrink tubing

is your face worth more than $0.30 to you?

Thanks guys. Again, didn’t know it was an issue. Just bought a set of wraps from amazon. Will be here Sunday. Have a heat gun so it should be smooth sailing.

ThreeBulls 240pcs 12 Color 29.5mm 18.5mm PVC Heat Shrink Tubing Tube For 18650 18500 Battery Shrink Film https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I6OU8YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S9bcBbW648CGQ

I was in same situation with plenty of paracord. I ordered this and it has worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053PYF62/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, it feels just a bit thinner than the stock stuff that comes on the bag. It really is not a big deal. You can also search for "glue lined" to get the stuff that /u/Dewy93 mentioned. The key is 1/4" thickness.

I have the same setup! I have q701's, so I hang them by the top wires.

I had some heat shrink that I put over the metal, just to give it a little extra protection from rubbing.

I found a piece of wide heat shrink on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJVQR7I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a Grasshopper GHB2 battery. Had a tear at the negative end and at the positive end. I could not find 12650 battery wraps as previously guided, nor can I find 13mm inner diameter when not flat PVC material/battery wraps.

I tried a few 18650 wraps to no avail, then tried some 13mm heat shrink tubing I have for computer wires.

This is a link for the heat shrink wraps I used. I cannot find what material they are made out of and I know that 18650 wraps are usually (or always) PVC wraps. https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Shrink-Sleeve-Assorted/dp/B008WWC6FU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Does anyone know if this material is good to use as a battery wrap?

I agree with the guy saying to repair the existing one. Just cut out the chewed portion of wire, strip the insulation back about an inch, slide on some heat shrink, make a western union splice (can be done with no solder), slide heat shrink back onto the bare metal and heat.

If you choose to buy a replacement, make sure you measure the diameter of your existing plug and match it to the one you buy, there are several different size barrels.

I use both this and heatshrink when I want a water tight seal.


Also pro tip for ya, you will need a 3:1 heatshrink if you have to go over a head phone jack.


https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-270Pcs-Shrink-Adhesive-Tubing/dp/B073R69KNB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3%3A1+Heat+Shrink&qid=1555176527&s=industrial&sr=1-3

If you don't want to buy new grips, don't tape over it. Use large diameter electrical cable heat shrink. Won't get sticky and will be reasonably durable. Place over grip and use a heat gun to shrink in place.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MJVQR7I/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_blQPPf_g328_i11?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=4QB9VE1H7VHCVBTP2ZVW&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=b57f5639-73c6-5e58-aea5-2473e4740a80&pf_rd_i=700782011

I'm building some today with...

these banana plugs

this wire

this heatshrink

and this tech flex

Heat-shrink tubing.

http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Shrink-Sleeve-Tubing-Assorted/dp/B008WWC6FU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370903152&sr=8-2&keywords=shrink+wrap

I bought this set here. I don't recall specifically right now, but it was one of the larger ones, 10mm or 14mm probably.

Links to components used:
Headlight
Wiring Harness
36v-12v Converter
Tail Lights
heat shrink
Mounting Brackets

Shrink tubing

Braided sleeve:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2RG20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heatshrink:

http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-150Pcs-Polyolefin-Halogen-Free-Shrink/dp/B00EXLLXK8/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420770599&sr=1-5&keywords=heatshrink

Buy some dual wall shrink wrap. https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-270Pcs-Shrink-Adhesive-Tubing/dp/B073R69KNB

Those earbuds have no stress relief in the connection. It is not your fault they are breaking. You just need to heat shrink for some stress relief.


Heat Shrink Tubing, Eventronic Electrical Wire Cable Wrap Assortment Electric Insulation Heat Shrink Tube Kit with Box(5 colors/12 Sizes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PCQ2LW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U6uRDb148T5HS


Method https://youtu.be/oHbgAiKBpf8

Do this to the points you feel are being tugged at. But do this for new earbuds, the old ones need to be fixed.

Seconded on the heat shrink. Something like this

Also- don't use a lighter, use actual heat from an extra hot hair dryer, or a heat gun. A lighter will give you a hard time and just burn the tubing- source: I've burned tubing with a lighter.

PLT: If your aglet breaks or otherwise comes off, you can repair it by cutting a piece of that plastic wire cover that shrinks when you heat it. This stuff.

         Parts List for (PID Controller Box)<br />

Some of these parts may be purchased at your local hardware store for a cheaper price.....


• Dual Digital Display PID Temperature Controller: http://amzn.com/B002PIM3R8

• Solid State Relay w/ Heatsink: http://amzn.com/B005K2IXHU

• PT100 Thermocouple Sensor: http://amzn.com/B008MU0VFY

• Aluminum Project Enclosure Box, Econobox: http://amzn.com/B005T7RPFC

• 3 Pin IEC320 Male Power Socket w/ Switch: http://amzn.com/B00F4MGRRE . TIP - Replace Fuse With F15AL250V.

• GX16-3 Aviation Connector:http://amzn.com/B00FB56T04

• Black - Tamper Resistant Power Receptacle: http://amzn.com/B002L6H414

• Gray - Tamper Resistant Power Receptacle: http://amzn.com/B002L6H428

• IEC320-C13 Power Cord: http://amzn.com/B0012EI6KE

• Rubber Feet: http://ebay.com/itm/351131287090

• Heat Shrink: http://amzn.com/B00EXLLXK8

• Fork Terminal Wire Connectors - Non Insulated ~ 16-14 AWG: http://amzn.com/B00LUUAB94

• Female Disconnect - Non Insulated: http://amzn.com/B0071OXJ5Q

• Insulated Copper Wire ~ 18-14 AWG

• Nuts & Bolts

No I mean shrink wrap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PCQ2LW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TaY7BbYWB0K24

I got you fam

https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-Heat-Shrink-Tubing/dp/B0053PYF62/

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Equipment-Overlap-Welding-Voltage/dp/B01DDXLNVU/

Heat shrink tubing and a hot air gun, this way you can spend a few hundred bucks on something you are going to use for a few seconds and then throw away.

I don't know if your IEMs are different, but when some older ones I had failed, there was no good way to access the cable. (The unit was press/glue fitted together. From a quick search, the ones you have don't look much better.) I recommend that you buy a soldering iron kit and solder the wire back together instead of replacing the cable. Heat shrink tubing is recommended to prevent the same cable from failing in that location again.

Those cables are covered in varnish, so twist them together and then use the soldering iron to burn off the varnish while you solder the two wires together. If using heat shrink, use 2 layers: one for the inner wires, then one for the entire cable. You can shrink heat shrink with a lighter or a heat gun.

Electrical tape or heat shrink.

I find it funny but understandable that the things that break and don't get fixed are the things that can be fixed for <$5.00 if people only knew what to buy or what to use. It's easy to know you need a new chair, but it's harder to know it's wobbling because of a small loose screw. So the little things fall into the category of not broken enough to need a new dishwasher but inconveniently broken. There's nothing Sugru can do that you can't find a better solution for in the adhesive aisle of a hardware store.

If you don't have enough slack after cutting off the original connectors, just crimp butt splice some wire of the same gauge onto the loose wires you cut, then cover with glue-filled heat shrink. If you can't find uninsulated crimp splice connectors at the local store, just heat up the insulated ones with a heat gun until the plastic softens then pull the metal inside out of the plastic sleeve.

Make sure whatever Weather Pack connector you use, it's sized to accept the proper gauge wire. Trying to force larger wires into smaller gaskets and pins will ruin your project.

"I'm so pissed off. Who's gonna replace my brand new ruined batteries? I have no way of wrapping them myself. If I added tape to my battery they will 100% not fit anymore into the mods."

YOU ARE.

Fucking woe is me, man.

Go on amazon and get some battery wraps, here's 240 in assorted colors for $10. https://www.amazon.com/ThreeBulls-240pcs-29-5mm-18-5mm-Battery/dp/B01I6OU8YY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538600861&sr=8-4&keywords=18650+battery+wrap

Enjoy!

If I'm understanding your issue correctly, someone in the past cut out the plastic connector that would fit into the stock unit, leaving you with just wires. If that is the case, you will need a meter to help you figure out the wires. in a pinch, a 9 volt battery can be used to figure out which speaker is which (really not good for the speaker, but it does work).
Strip the ends of all wires and twist them together. Electrical tape works in a pinch, as do wire nuts, but really I'd opt for heat shrink tubing cut to size before you twist the wires together. A hair dryer should work to shrink the tubing since you probably don't have a heat gun lying around the house.