Reddit mentions: The best industrial materials

Sorry for the potato quality.

Made of kydex. Used barrel nuts, screws and plastic weld for the adjustable part. Neoprene liner to protect the stock.

First attempt. Pretty sloppy with some of the cuts for the Velcro straps, will probably use a plunge cutter on the router next time.

Edit: How to and parts.

Here's an album of it disassembled: http://imgur.com/a/Hx72f

Threw this together quick, so sorry if its not exact, but it should give you an idea.

The parts aren't exact, go to lowes or home depot and play around with what fits best for your application and make sure all the screws screw what you want...

The Hillman Group 1/4-in Zinc-Plated Standard (SAE) Brad Hole Tee Nut - http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=137342-37672-880539&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3012548&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

The Hillman Group 20-Count #10-24 x 3/8-in Button-Head Plain Steel Allen-Drive Socket Cap Screw - http://www.lowes.com/pd_426315-37672-43560_1z0vrds+1z0yjl3+1z0yjot__?productId=4212340&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1%26page%3D1&facetInfo=0.375|#10

The Hillman Group 4-Count #10 x 3/8-in Nylon Standard (SAE) Flat Washer - http://www.lowes.com/pd_139065-37672-881544_0__?productId=3013084&Ntt=nylon+washers&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dnylon%2Bwashers&facetInfo=

Devcon 22045 Plastic Welder - 25 ml Dev-Tube - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NUGL9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

KYDEX V Sheet - 0.080" Thick, Black, 12" x 12" Nominal, 8PACK - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AEKJVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sponge Neoprene 1/16" Thick X 54" Wide X 1' - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009K7M1TW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Others things:
Velcro

I found a caliper to be useful ( I have a cheap harbor freight one, doesn’t need to be anything special)

Straight edge

Exacto Knife

Old mouse pad

3m Formula 77

Super Glue

painters tape


Here we go…
First I made a template using some thick card stock paper. I used an old file folder. Cut out the desired shape that will be the bottom layer. Make another template for the riser (this is where the caliper, straight edge, and exacto came in handy).

Cut out the shapes on your kydex. I used a table saw, for quick accurate cuts, however, I’ve heard people use a razor to score and snap the kydex ( I didn’t have much luck with this, I think the .08 kydex is too thick to do this cleanly).
Mark where you would like the tee-bolts and velcro straps to go on the bottom layer. I put the tee bolts slightly above center. Drill your holes using a bit as close to the thickness of the tee-bolt post as you can get, this helps prevent wobbles. Match the post holes on the second sheet of kydex, then measuring half an inch (doesn’t have to be half an inch, could be closer or farther depending on what you’d like) from center add as many additional holes as you desire. Make any drills and cuts before you mold, it will make life easier. Also draw center lines for points of reference.

I wrapped the stock in the neoprene to account for the added thickness during molding. (I eventually glue the neoprene to the inside of the mold to help protect the stock.

Heat the kydex and shape around neoprene covered stock. (Note, mark center points on the kydex and neoprene to easily align).

Tape the freshly molded kydex to the stock. You’ll mold on top of this soon and don’t want it shifting.
Wrap the old mouse pad on the base mold and secure with tape. The second mold will need to be a little wider so it rests on the posts nicely.

Heat the second layer of kydex and mold on top of the mouse pad. Again, pay attention to the center.

After they’ve cooled completely, remove them.

Apply the plastic weld to the tee-posts. Insert the tee-bolts in to the base layer so they are sticking outwards. I like the brad holes, as the plastic weld gets pushed out, they help secure them to the kydex when torque is applied. Wipe away any excess.

After the plastic weld has set, spray the inside of the mold with the formula 77 and insert the neoprene. The neoprene helps protect the stock from the metal tee bolts. This is optional, I did it to protect the stock. This can be tricky, use more neoprene then you’ll need and cut out the excess, that way you get good coverage.

Grab the nylon washers and put them on the tee bolt posts, I super glued these to the kydex to make life easier. You want the washer to be slightly thicker then the posts are high, this way the second piece of kydex is setting on the nylon washer and not the metal posts. Depending on which washers you have, you may want to stack a few on top of each other and glue them.

After every thing has set, attach the second mold of kydex and use the screws to attach to the posts. Adjust height as needed.

Edit two...
Also my cuts for the velcro are very sloppy, I should have used a router or my rotary tool, I may be retarded.

Congrats, just got mine 2 months ago.

SeeMeCNC forums are awesome. Start reading every new post.

Best upgrade I've done: PEI Bed

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ

~$30 in upgrades; all my prints stick and pop off with ease. Also, the underside of every part is glassy and smooth. So good.

Buy "feeler gages" to assist with leveling the bed.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J000AA-Master-Feeler/dp/B001HWDOK8/

My bed leveling process is kinda like this:

• Set the Z=0 spot, should be where you feel friction when pulling a single, blank piece of printer paper between the nozzle and print bed.
  
  
• Edit the radius of swing in the EEPROM settings per the instructions (I missed this the first time through).
  
  
• Setup and run the tower calibration script.
  
  
• Figure out what the gap is for the central point with the feeler gages; mine was between .006" and .007" (.006" fit, .007" didn't).
  
  
• Now use those "Go" and "No-Go" gages to check the three tower points.
  
  
• If you need to adjust all three towers in the same direction, change the EEPROM radius instead, 0.2 steps.
  
  
• Every few tower calibration runs, re-calibrate the Z=0 point. It will shift as you move screws and change EEPROM settings.
  
  Let's see, what else. If you can spare the cash, I moved to Simplify3d for all my slicing needs ($100~$150 for the license). Love it. If you can't afford it, maybe you'll find a way.
  
  Also, get ready to do a bajillion calibration runs. I mean it, don't be in a rush.
  
  Find a nice 20mm box off thingiverse or whatever, and you're gonna want to print that repeatedly while you dial in your settings. Once that's set, move on to the hollow pyramid, or the 5mm stairs.
  
  I seriously printed at least 20 of each of these while I dialed in my settings:
  
  
• Extrusion Multiplier
  
• Retraction Settings
  
• Speed
  
• Infill, Outline Overlap
  
• Printing temp
  
• etcetcetc
  
  ASAP, move over to PLA. Prints so much nicer for me than ABS.
  
  Oh, before you go to PLA, make sure you print 3x of the layer fans housings (not just 1x) and order up 2 more of the "squirrel cage" fans (centrifugal fans) from SeeMeCNC. edit: I spliced the single pair of layer-fan wires into three right at the connectors, I didn't bother running extra wire for them.
  
  Oh, and one other big improvement I made was putting connectors in-line with the hot-end and for all the fans. This way, if I have to replace a fan or upgrade the hot-end I don't have to cut and splice wires, I can just pop it off and connectorize another new one. Here are the connectors I used:
  
  
• Hot end, high-current lines
  
• Crimp tool
  
• 1 2 3 4 for the lower-current fan lines and thermistor lines.
  
  That was probably too much info -- just take your time and try not to get frustrated while you get things all set up. It is not a plug-'n-play object, it requires care and feeding.
  
  ... oh, and have fun! Whatcha gonna print?

While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.

Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray

• Duck Sidewinder
  
  Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)
  
  
• GMK Screw in Stabalizers
  
  
• Permatex Dielectric Grease
  
  
• Orings
  
  Switches: Holy Razers
  
  
• Greetech SMD RGB bottoms
  
  
• Outemu ICE V2 tops
  
  
• Halo True stems
  
  
• Krytox 205 GPL 0
  
  Butyl Rubber
  
  
• Non Adhesive for the case
  
  
• Adhesive for the spacebar
  
  Keycaps:
  
  
• Blue Grey XDA Keycap Set
  
  I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.
  
  I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.
  
  As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.
  
  I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)

Comments:

Go for it and good luck.

Advice:

Start small. Don't try to make a giant bowie to begin with. You will learn a lot on your first knife, and the result probably won't be exactly what you expect. As you learn, you can then go bigger, but start with something manageable. Do a knife about 8 inches in total length or so.

Google 'aaron gough youtube'. I don't know what video you watched, but I have seen a ton about using rebar and similar, which really doesn't work. Aaron gough gives a lot of practical advice and methods, and he makes good knives and is a cool redditor.

Use real steel. Buy some real steel. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMYFVI

This is 30 bucks, and will make a real knife worth using.

Use files at first, smithing is way harder. Use a jig, it is harder to mess up than doing it freehand.

I would suggest getting it professionally heat treated: if you aren't doing too many, it will be cheaper than doing it ghetto at home and you will get way better results. When I started, I messed up about half of the ones I heat treated at home. It sucks to have a knife go to waste. I would suggest peters heat treat. You can do it at home if you want, but you will shell out more initially for the setup. It is fun though.

http://www.petersheattreat.com/blades/pricing/

Thirty bucks to get your blade awesomely heat treated.

Total cost would be about 100 dollars for: the steel, the files and material for a jig, and the heat treat. The piece of steel I linked to should be enough for a couple of knives.

More advice: trawl through this subreddit extensively. :) Research helps a ton for getting good results.

Ditch the converter for a NOCO battery charger/maintainer. You will thank yourself later. This one does fine with a 55Ah AGM battery. Also, don't use a wet cell battery unless it's in its own box outside the trailer.

I like your fuse block. I fused the battery feed to mine at 30A, and sized the wire accordingly - 10AWG boat cable would be perfect. All the fuses in my Blue Sea Systems fuse block are 10A and under.

Grab some LED voltmeters and mount one inside and one near your fuses. And one in your car, and....

Unless you need a separate distro bus, I'd skip that. I am using Wago 221-415 connectors as mini bus bars as needed - run a wire from the fuse panel into the cabin, then up to four additional circuits from that point - lights, etc.

You will find that your main switch panel is less functional than you hoped it would be. I recently removed mine. Individual switches at point of contact are much more user-friendly.

We loved our Fantastic Fan, and I've heard great things about Maxx Fans, but we went back to a solid roof with vent fans in the galley bulkhead.

Multicolored LED strips are fun! We are currently installing two circuits of them in the galley. When you set yours up, make sure you install a controller with non-remote controls. We have had some of the remotes fail, and at least one of them couldn't be replaced. Superbright LEDs currently has a stunning deal on one that fit our needs.

LED strip channels are a good idea. Also get the long clips, which hang on to the channel better.

Your under-cabinet lighting is probably on a 12V wall-wart. Cut it off and hook the LED strips right into your 12V system.

For wiring, get a spool each of 22AWG, 18AWG and 14AWG tinned copper cable; molded cable (lamp cord style) is acceptable. We have used Wiremold NMW1 raceway and surface mount boxes to keep things simple and tidy. Where things turn corners we leave the wires exposed instead of going nuts with the corner and tee fittings.

I guess people want to know a little more. There's plenty of tutorials online, so do some google work if you want a more in-depth description.

Materials/Tools:

• Kydex V .080" (I got 12"x12" 8pack on amazon)
  
• Balsa wood (local hardware or craft store, I got mine at Menards)
  
• Clip (Pick which one you like, I found a 2 pack with hardware on amazon)
  
• Painters tape (had some lying around)
  
• vacuum food bags (You can use this or a foam press or zip-lock bag if you're careful)
  
• IR thermometer (I got one on amazon for 14, but you can find cheaper ones for sub $10)
  
• Dremmel or bandsaw
  
• Sandpaper (either hand sand or belt sander or sander attachment for dremel)
  
• heatgun for loosening a few places
  
  Process:
  
  
• Use the balsa wood to cover spots you don't want the holster to be formed in. I covered up the trigger area, the right side of the breech where most pistols eject casings, a line from the front to rear sights, and a line back from the slide release.
  
• Set your gun down on one of the kydex sheets to mark out how much material you need. I used a little less than half of one of the sheets. I then did a loose guess of "roll the gun over to see how far I need to go", and cut off what I needed.
  
• Get your vacuum bag or foam press or gallon zip-lock back ready. I think the food vacuum bags are easiest, but if you don't have one lying around, I've heard you can use a zip-lock bag, a rag, and a floor vacuum with a hose. Most tutorials online use a foam press. I'd say this gives you the best results, but costs the most, and requires replacing the foam after 5-10 holsters.
  
• Heat up the kydex to the proper temperature (The kydex V I linked I think forms best at 300-315), use the IR gun to get the temperature right. If you go too hot, the kydex will "burn", it gets all shiny (The stuff linked "burns" probably around 360-380).
  
• Once it gets up to temperature, pull it out, wrap your gun with it, and compress it. The kydex I linked has a shiny and a matte side. I used it with the matte side out, but if you like a glossy look, go for it. Like I said, I used a vacuum food bag (they're safe to use in the oven, so it can handle 320 degree plastic), your mileage will vary. If you use a zip-lock bag, you might need to put a rag around it so it doesn't melt the bag
  
• Let cool. Once cooled down, anywhere from 2 minutes to 15 minutes (depends if you use your actual gun or a mold gun, and if you use foam or etc). You can use the IR reader to see what temp it is, under 140 should be good, but other spots may be warmer. The gun acts as a heatsink. The hottest spot is where the kydex is all by it's lonesome.
  
• Pull your gun out and start going to work
  
• I used a bandsaw to cut out the general shape, and a dremel with a sanding head to get it just right.
  
• Sand to your heart's content.
  
• You may need to reheat the trigger area specifically if you're having trouble pulling the firearm out. I used my heatgun on low.
  
• Decide where you want to mount your clip(s). If you want to mount your clips where the gun is, before you mold, put some balsa wood there so the hardware doesn't scratch your gun.
  
• Drill holes for the hardware. I used a 13/64 bit which worked perfectly for my hardware which is supposedly 1/4, but use what ever bit you need for whatever hardware your clip needs.
  
• Make sure you have positive retention, but not so much where you can't pull the gun out. Kydex lets the gun out much easier with a quick pull, rather than a lengthy one. The main area for catching is the trigger guard. What ever is catching, heat it up just enough with the heatgun for it to open up.
  
  And then you're basically all done. It took me probably an hour or less. Total cost for one holster (because I was able to make 2 holsters off of one 12"x12" sheet), was about $6-$7, with the bulk of the cost being the clips. I'll try and answer any other questions others have.

http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Pure-grams-GalliumSource/dp/B0051GWA3S
its called gallium, its a metal that's when its at room temperature its a solid, but at body temperature is turns to a liquid. so you can make molds and fill them up with gallium then when someone picks it up it melts all over them, and you can do lots more with it!
for the games, i would love medal of honor, i have never played it and it looks like a lot of fun.

I bought the same thing for my v1:
12"x12" 0.03" PEI
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/
(6) 12x12" 3M Adhesive Transfer Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/

At the time there were no practical cheaper/smaller options (although the extra 3M adhesive does come in handy).

... I scored/snapped the sheet into 4 pieces, and I'm still on the first PEI sheet after like 300 hours. It still looks flawless. I only use sharp scraper blades or no tools to remove parts. If you're printing something crazy in a cold room, you can add hairspray, but for the most part, PEI has perfect adhesion on it's own.

I definitely recommend the thicker PEI (0.03"+), as it makes the MPSM bed much more rigid. I don't have to bend the aluminum bed "flat again" anymore. I dont worry about bending the bed when ripping parts off the bed, even with super high adhesion.

Clean it with alcohol, not sandpaper.

I used these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They come with a small clip/bracket that you screw into the wall, then the rail snaps into it. Is a great look, they are easy to cut into whatever size you might need with a typical handsaw. And they diffuse the light really well so that you don't see points as much. Totally worth it, and way better than the factory tape.


I think the factory tape is only good to get a general sense of your look, what you think it should look like, and allow you to reposition. Then use these rails, and you will be very happy.

DiiCooler, Z braces, thumbscrews for bed leveling, and the melzi temp fix are all common mods that I can recommend. You could also get the all Metal Hot end from Micro Swiss but I have not done this myself.

As for supplies, I would recommend getting a sheet of PEI and some 3M adhesive to stick it to the print bed. PEI is a great, low maintenance print surface that prints stick to very well even without any form of fixative to improve bed adhesion. If you don't go that route I would say get some buildtak to put on the print bed with washable gluestick depending on the filament you use. Basically you don't want to be printing directly on to the bed as there is a hole where the thermistor comes through.

Other than that, just get extra filament and have fun with it.

For a holster have you thought of using kydex? You could build a perfect little holster that looks like it was made for it. The stuff is really easy/fun to work with.

Does this light put out 180L with a normal 1.5/1.2v AAA or just with a 10440 @ 3.7V?

As far as a suggestion for a 10440 this one works for me. Do not bother with Trustfire. Both of my Trustfire 104440s are shot.

I don't think you're going to find much with this little guy as far as mods go. Really just playing around with how long it can handle a 10440 will be fun. Be careful I have had a few AAA/10440 flashlights that will only function on 104440 after using one in it and the other flat out stopped working. (Thorfire I think it was.) Just a reminder to not let it heat up too much is all. My OLight AAA goes with me everywhere even when I have my S1 clipped in my pocket just because it's so small and a great thing to hand to someone when they ask "can I use your flashlight".

This is the roll I was talking about. I just cut it down to size and place it in pre-existing containers. I'm not sure of any PTFE containers but I'm sure they're pretty pricy, comparatively. Plus the roll is useful if you like to press your own Rosin because you can re-use it for a long time without worrying about deterioration. Hope this helped!

Besides fix as many world problems fixable by money (hunger, shelter, health) as possible, which I don't think is what you are asking about...

• Buy some land and build an earthship community, make it a place where anybody is welcome
  
  
• Grow many, many plants - fruits, veggies, ornamental plants (including bonsai), some psychonautical plants, trees, grasses, shrubberies, lichens, fungi farm, you get the idea
  
  
• Buy a crapton of bismuth and grow ginormo bismuth crystals, a new hobby of mine
  
  
• Buy the rest of my dream music equipment and record lots of music, invite people to come and play along
  
  
• Create a videogame studio and make a game I've been creating in my mind for years that chronicles an epic war of love, so to speak, between two souls who continually reincarnate in different times to learn from each other in battle, romance, philosophical discussion, psychonautical antics, and general saving-the-world type things
  
  
• Write a book on the same videogame idea, maybe do the book first
  
  
• Dance
  
  
• Buy a building in somewhere and make it a psychonaut's wet dream hangout/safe spot where anybody can go to trip (or be sober) and be safe with therapists, yoga instructors, meditation guides, art/music/light rooms, fruits and veggies, tea and coffee, trippy books, quiet zones, tooooyyysss!, friendly people

This was a long time coming, as I was making do with a shitty L shaped desk in my shed and some poorly supported shelves for years. I didn't have enough room to spread out complex projects and my tool storage was non-existent. Further I was constantly hitting my legs on the desk and it was too low; thus hard on my back.

As I had a 10' long back area, I wanted a wall supported work bench with shelves of test equipment and storage above it. The rubber maid twin rack was ideal as it would go into the wall studs and was avialbe in up to 24" deep support arms.

I stacked a countertop on this and it was perfect for working on. Heat resistant and cheap enough to replace if it gets damaged. The best part is no supports under it to hit my knees on. I did add some small reinforcing 1" wide strips under it to distribute the load.

Protip: when installing the shelves and countertop, leave a 1.5" space from the wall to the shelf as this will allow cords/coax to go behind it and space to tilt the whole thing up if need be and remove/reposition it.

Also the Grip Rite screws are fucking awesome. I used a electric torque driver to put them in and the star drive prevents torque out like with the phillips screws. I'll never use the old phillips wood screws again.

During all this I got a cheap tool box from harbor freight and solved my tool organization problems once and for all. I installed some channel with double sided tape under the shelves and put RGB LED strip lights under them.

I'm very happy with the almost 10' of work space now, it's such a step up from my 50" wide desk.

As others have said, PTFE sheets are the best way to go. Something like these; http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Slick-Labratory-Resistant-Alternative/dp/B00AWK04IQ

Being able to blast, heat purge, and then transfer to vacuum all in one pan makes the entire process go a lot easier. It especially helps in giving a nice, even patty so all of it purges equally.

1. Gallium
   
2. Drawing stumps
   
3. I need these items because first I will purchase a spoon mold, and pour in the liquid gallium. The gallium will solidify into a spoon, and then I can dip the spoon into some warm water to liquefy it, and amaze my friends with the disappearing spoon! I will then draw all my friends reactions, and using the drawing stumps I will be able to perfectly shade in their faces!
   
   Schmad on my add on

While I've never had success with a Rep2X and PLA (except for one roll this one time), it sounds like you've got it extruding fairly well at this point.

So your current difficulty is getting the print to stay stuck to the bed? I'd recommend getting a sheet of PEI (I use 0.03" thickness) like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA
Then cut it to size and stick it to your print bed with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7CZ32

I've had awesome success with PEI and PLA. It sticks great until it cools down, then it comes off easily. Print with the bed at 50C.

I put in Hue lightstrips under my kitchen cabinets. I highly recommend installing them in diffusers. They help soften the light, but more importantly they make for a very clean looking install. I used these ones: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dYoQDbQ7HADKX

The connectors made by this company are also very useful for splitting and joining strips together: https://litcessory.com (also available on Amazon)

To give an opinion contrary to Linkdead404's, I think the heated bed is absolutely worth it. I only print in PLA, and I dealt with the painters tape on the Printrbot Metal for a long time. After I got my Rostock and used the heated bed with PLA, I upgraded the Printrbot as well. Everything sticks like glue and comes out super flat. I also have a sheet of PEI on the print bed of both printers which lets me print with nothing more than a quick wipe off with rubbing alcohol. So awesome.

Edit: I should have put this as a reply to OP. I bought the $99 upgrade kit, you also need a power supply, which I got on sale from Newegg.

You'd really only have to spend $20 to make the forearms and the plastron. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AEKJVW/

You could make yourself a custom plastron from any breastplate pattern online.

I wouldn't use the lighter ones because I'm unsure what the protection is like. The 800n fabric they use is really thick and has some weight to it. That by itself is a good thing because that mass will help protect you. Also, it's my opinion that one shouldn't skimp on protection. Save the money, buy the better thing and you wont regret it. Buy the cheap one and there is a higher chance of regret.

If screen top, cover with 3 layers of foil, use tape on the outside only, where snek cannot touch tape, to make a better seal, leave a hole for excess humidity or lamp, hole i think works best on the warm side, oh and a water bowl on both ends of the tank

glass sides and back can be insulated with foam, or foil, black foam looks better, works better and is exactly the measurement for the 2 sides and back https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GAD5G4

the analog dial is usually inaccurate and everyone here is afraid of them after this owners corn snake got stuck to the adhesive that fell off http://i.imgur.com/CRHSzgK.jpg

i seriously hope you arent dabbing directly out of the silicone puck or the parchment paper - they make these nice glass dishes specifically to handle the heat of a quartz NC - https://www.google.com/search?q=nectar+collector+dish&rlz=1C1GCEU_enUS820US820&sxsrf=ACYBGNQplCW9EGYhesSm7N-m8eVbWsAsRg:1567775852790&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj7yKuWpLzkAhUCTN8KHZhGDUMQ_AUIEygC&biw=1920&bih=937

i strongly suggest storing your concentrate in PTFE, glass, or at least avoid all porous containers like silicon. unless you like your terps leeching out of your concentrate, just sayin....

https://www.amazon.com/Oil-Slick-Labratory-Resistant-Alternative/dp/B00AWK04IQ

​

just dropping some knowledge that was shared with me on this sub a few yrs ago, dont mean to come off as a know it all, just trying to help

The search term you're looking for is "cable trays." There are hundreds of variants, but something like this might work for you. Lifehacker also has a tag for DIY cable management. You want a cable tray that can sit between the two tables.

Or if you really just want to keep the tables with a half inch gap or so between them and have the cables drop down to the floor (but please, for the love of all that is holy, put in a decent cable management system instead), you could stick some shims (or even cheaper) pointy end down between the two tables on each end.

yea it sucks, i had to chuck a bunch of silicone too. but since i plan on dabbing exclusively for the rest of my life, i wanna limit repeated exposure to anything.

glass is great, so is ptfe(teflon). you can get a roll on amazon for like 30 bucks https://www.amazon.com/Oil-Slick-Labratory-Resistant-Alternative/dp/B00AWK04IQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527378978&sr=8-4&keywords=ptfe i use glass jars for liquidy stuff and ptfe sheets for shatters. just beware they're both slightly less nonstick than silicone. freezing helps a lot tho

Applied a piece of these right under the joycons on the carrying case. So far it's working pretty good. It gives it a nice snug fit. Would recommend this mod.

Are the LED strips laid out relatively straight? Because if so the easiest solution is to just encase them in something. They sell Aluminum Channel for LEDs, like this: https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1902-U/dp/B00PJSUZSK/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00PJSUZSK&pd_rd_r=REHQ9GGMNA7XK7GZ8S12&pd_rd_w=gycAr&pd_rd_wg=Q27T8&psc=1&refRID=REHQ9GGMNA7XK7GZ8S12

That example might not be durable enough for your application, but something along those lines would definitely be better than just an exposed strip. I have used it before and the plastic is fairly durable and flexible so hopefully it wouldn't crack from impact.

I recently stopped using blue tape and switched to PEI sheets on glass. I'll never go back. I think this would be a good thing for you to try, the PEI sheet releases pretty easily once cool.

PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j.9Dxb7FAEG3J

TapeCase 12" squares (pack of 6), Converted from 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S.9DxbBW56J7Z

I have several upgrades in the queue for this weekend once my M3 hardware kit comes in:

• The 40mm fan for the controller board: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1867169
  
• The Z-Axis rod stabilizers: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1775502
  
• The zero-offset mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1848402
  
  (Note the above designs are all three by USWaterRockets, who seems to have exceptional engineering skills, but I haven't installed them yet. Hopefully, this weekend and I'll post results)
  
  Another one I'm considering next:
  
  
• Belt tensioners: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1697171
  
  Here is the E3D-v6 adapter I currently have on the printer:
  
• https://hackaday.io/project/12184-monoprice-mp-select-mini-e3d-hotend-adapter
  
  Note the above design is just a quick-and-dirty solution; the author even states this. It works and will get you what you need to get things going with the new head.
  
  Other upgrades I've done:
  
  
• Upgrade the firmware and set the PID values correctly to control temperature better: https://hackaday.io/project/12696/instructions
  
• Replacement filament feeder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196B285I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• PEI print surface (two parts):
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Cork insulation under print bed (I attached it using the adhesive from the above order): http://www.michaels.com/artminds-cork-roll/M10171279.html?dwvar_M10171279_color=Natural#q=cork&start=6
  
  Here's the E3D-v6 printhead I bought and it's worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4V2QEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Disclaimer: I'm new to 3D printing. This is my first printer and the learning curve is steep. I may look back on this posting in a year and think "what an idiot I was doing <this>". Take my advice with a grain of salt, as I'm muddling through this whole thing. YMMV

Not entering because I've been more than lucky lately, but I thought you might find this cool. Gallium is wicked neat and I love that you can buy it on Amazon.

I have retrofitted two kitchens with LED under cabinet lighting, both before tiling the backsplash, each at a cost under $100 USD. The first has been going strong for almost 10 years.

First, IMO under cabinet lighting is task lighting. It doesn't need to be dimmable and doesn't need to be RGB, just go with a warm or cool temperature depending on your preference.

This is what I suggest - I assume you are in the U.S...

1. Run 18AWG Low Voltage LED Cable 2 Conductor Jacketed in-Wall Wire from the back of a selected base cabinet through the wall(s) to each contiguous span of upper cabinets. These wires can terminate in a small box in, or under, the cabinet. The wiring also can be daisy-chained if needed. For example, a wire can be used to connect cabinet spans that are separated by a small distance, say by a range hood.
   
2. Wire a switched 110v outlet into the same base cabinet. This only needs to be operated by a single switch,, probably over the counter, or near an entrance to the kitchen area.
   
3. Use LED 5050 Flexible Strip Lights, Warm White 3000K 16.4ft 300 LEDs (or whatever color temp you prefer) inside Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels with Diffuser cut at custom lengths to match the widths of cabinet spans. These should be mounted at the front of the cabinet and a small wiring channel used to hide the wiring under the cabinet were it runs from front to back.
   
4. Drive the LED strips by a LEDwholesalers 12-Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 60W, 3204-12V (or something similar) mounted in the base cabinet with the low-voltage wiring and switched outlet.
   
   I used these items. This setup is simple and inexpensive, any one component can be replaced easily if it fails, and it can be controlled by a smart switch of your choice.
   
   If you want mood lighting, then you can wire 110v outlets above the cabinets and use one, or two of Philips - Hue Play White & Color Ambiance Smart LED Bar Light to shine on the ceiling, or use Philips Hue bulbs in your recessed light cans.

Hey, I posted this in another thread where a guy had the same complaint as you with the Huge (about the palm rest not being quite right). Maybe you might want to look into this too?

> Have you thought about getting a bunch of foam padding used for arts & crafts and stacking/trimming it to shape the wrist rest how you want it?

> Something like this I just found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JSWJTNY/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VY9TK8BG80P6968YPFPK&dpPl=1&dpID=71NffsSX7nL

> If you have an x-acto knife or a scalpel and some adhesive (for stacking and attaching to the palm rest) you could probably make something pretty decent-looking and comfortable.

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

http://www.amazon.com/Slick-Sheet-Ptfe-Teflon-Roll/dp/B00AWK04IQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394122909&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+slick+teflon

prime shipped next day to your door. THIS STUFF IS NOT PARCHMENT PAPER. It is a special plastic (Polytetrafluoroethylene, or PTFE, known as teflon by many) known for its solvent resistance and nonstick properties. you can process small particles of it and suspend them in solvents as a result without them breaking down, and in lubricating oils as a nonstick sheen to help prevent buildup of grime on bike chains and other moving parts on machinery and also sporting gear like the bearings of most anything and also fishing spools and gun slides. When you make it into a nice solid sheet, it's thick and sturdy enough to hold a decent amount of weight in wax, and can handle the direct solvent contact with the cold butane for the amount of use you will get out of a single cutting. I'd recommend buying a few rolls if you make a lot of wax, as after a couple batches worth of large slabs + folding the sheets do get worn out pretty quick, but it's fucking worth it, and any left over sheet that's still intact can be used for the storage of slabs as well.

you could always take a rotary tool, a pointed diamond bit, a ruler and a gold,silver or bronze sharpie (if your i beam is dark in color if its somewhat shiny you can just use a normal black sharpie) and make that drilled round hole into a square one.

for a horn a i just thought up a mod for a I-beam anvil. what you will need, get a good thick piece of round stock (a axle or thick spring from a car would work as its good high carbon steel), a blowtorch head, a small bottle of MAP gas, and if you do not have it a angle grinder with a proper abrasive disk for grinding and a cut off head.

First Grind the round stock into a proper tapered horn leaving a bit of a original materials size on the back end. Next switch to the cutting disk and cut off a appropriate amount of the middle section of the I beam off. Next using the Map gas get top of the beam to a nice orange color,(it will take some time) take your hammer and hammer it to a 90 dgree angle. let it cool fully. then drill a hole into it the size of the horn. now the extra material should stop it from falling out and also serves to hold it in place for the next step. Next reheat the section back to orange and hammer down on it to hot form the extended piece to the horn. you may need to do some hardening to and tempering at the end to make sure it will not brake under the strain of working it.


Keep in mind I have not tried this out as I came up with it as I was writing it. I just use a Vise anvil hybrid and use the face of the vice as a shaping horn. However i am a Hobby bladesmith not a blacksmith.

Or you could shell out 15.05 for this Or you could ju st buy this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ES5T9C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and mod the horn to your liking.
and just grind down the horn. i use this one, however i kinda need to buy new nuts and bolts for it as I lost 2 well moving it to install the vise anvil hybrid i am now using.

Would you be able to find which tape in particular u used via amazon? Would this be acceptable? https://www.amazon.com/Neoprene-Rubber-adhesive-strip-thick/dp/B00EE9LKRA

Let me also say that it looks great, you did a fantastic job!

Similar but slightly different, I went with these. Two of those fit a single light strip just about perfectly.

You can build a wood box with a vent cover+mesh (on the side) for intake. For output, going out the bottom would work then a extension cord safety cover would do for the power.

TIMESETL 3pcs Stainless Steel Woven Wire 20 Mesh - 12"x8"(30x21cm) Metal Mesh Sheet 1mm Hole Great for Air Ventilation - A4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077M93J18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l100CbT4P8RPK

Amarine-made Stainless Steel Stamped Louvered Vent - Rectangular - 07722S - 4-1/2" X 5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D0WIL4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y000Cb5KQ9QG7


3 PK Black Extension Cord Safety Cover with Water-Resistant Seal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C2M83Y4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FZ00CbP7KYXPK

Depends were you live and it may take a visit to the place to see what they really have. I found a local store that had tool steel, O1 and W2, in both round bar and flat bar for reasonable prices BUT that isn't listed on their website. They also had a bunch of small cut off pieces of various metals for art projects which was really handy as well.

I know you didn't want to buy on line but Amazon has O1 with free shipping. Might be able to get a better deal locally if you look around.

Oh man I had this Favorited and totally forgot about it. Creamy Good is now up there labeled "tape". Ya know, if I get a lot of suppliers around I'll start an "official" suppliers thread. Or at least keywords to search for. Like "3mm washers" or "3mm o-rings" and stuff like that.
creamy goo. The truly hard to find suppliers that aren't middle men are for trucks and wheels.

I purchased an Arduino and 3 sets of these led strips as they go around the ceiling in the room. I also got mounting brackets as it defuses the lights AND can screw into surfaces as opposed to the LED which has a sticker backing, so once on a surface they can't really be moved. But with the mounting hardware I could possibly move them.... maybe.

I also got this power supply but with 3 strips I don't go over a Brigthness of 150-ish. (as opposed to 255) You'll also need a ac power cable to the power supply. However, so good news here, if you're only using one strip you SHOULD be able to get by with only power from the USB.

Now on to programming; There is the Arduino IDE free of course, but you'll have to learn a TINY amount of C. If you've worked with C#, JavaScript you'll be fine. It's not that low level. You will want to get the FastLED library and then select the DemoReel100 project and it will show you lots of options on how to control the LEDs.

As for having your PC control the LEDs, it will depend on exactly what that means. I have a C# app that sends data to the Arduino and then the Arduino deals with the execution of that command.

Sorry, totally forgot to respond to your message! After I leveled the two uprights, the one further from the garage door pretty much sits flush to the floor even when extended. The one closer to the garage door sits slightly off the ground, so I have to shim it whenever I set it up for lifting. I use two of these. Hope that helps!

Gallium. It's like mercury, but it is safe. Melting point of 85 degrees so it will liquefy in your hands but then solidify on a regular surface. One thing you can do with it is pour it on a table and let it dry flat like a mirror http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Pure-15-grams/dp/B0051GWA3S

Not OP but mine were too bright, and reflected off the granite countertop which wasnt great. I got some of these to mount them which helped though they arent cheap. I'd recommend warm white instead of cool as well.

Also known as Ultem, it can be purchased here from CSHyde. There are several options there for size and thickness. The bonus is that these sheets come with adhesive already laminated to the sheet. I believe you can also get custom sizes, although larger sheets are no problem to cut to size.

Alternatively (and probably more common), you can purchase PEI sheets here on Amazon. The recommended adhesive (transfer tape) is here, and there may be other sizes for both available on Amazon as well as wBay.

The whole idea on using PEI as a print surface is that you get good print adhesion with most common print materials. Using a heated bed with PEI works great for getting prints to stick while warm, and also pop off of the print bed fairly easily as the bed cools.

I went with the stuff from CSHyde for convenience, but I think most users here are going with the Amazon stuff (they have thicker sheets which many users prefer as it can last longer before needing replacement).

I'm just that badass.

Naw I just got a little 9lb one (this one) and some adhesive felt for the bottom so it doesn't scratch the shelf.

I think it looks pretty sweet: http://imgur.com/a/J8fTt

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Ground-Annealed-Thickness-Length/dp/B00CZDPAI2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518120890&sr=8-2&keywords=o1+tool+steel+flat+stock

EDIT: If you go this route, most options are prime eligible, but make sure you check stock sizes a little bigger or smaller than your ideal size. The price can vary wildly. For example, I was buying 3/16x1x36 for $50, then found that 5/32 was $25.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
http://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-squares-Converted-Adhesive-Transfer/dp/B007Y7D5NQ/
Do note I am using a rostock, but psi will work on all regardless, it's also acetone resistant, so you could clean really easily

I had undercabinet florescent with power coming directly into them, and I replaced them with a combination of led strip lighting, diffusers and individual power supplies. Then I changed the switch to a GE z-wave. Here's a list of the products I used:

Power Supply: ($14 x 3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED Lights: ($8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffusers: ($26)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zwave Switch (now they are $38, but I got some on clearance for $21)

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Required-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519156674&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+zwave&psc=1

All in all I replaced lighting under the three main cabinets and the total cost was under $100. I'm not sure it was the best way to do it, but it works! For my application dimming wasn't what I was looking for, but I think you could swap out some parts for the dimmable versions.

Bought one of these half racks in great shape for $100: https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/fitness-gear-2017-pro-half-rack-16fgeufgprhlfrckxgmu/16fgeufgprhlfrckxgmu.

 

Good rack, but the standard J hooks were covered in a nasty rubber that created rubber dust when the bar slid against it. Decided to cover the J hooks in UHMW instead.

 

Materials needed:

12x12x1/4" UHMW sheet (don't buy less than 1/4" thickness since you are going to be countersinking the screw holes): https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDLAW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493150072&sr=8-3&keywords=uhmw

Drill/drill bits

Phillips #2 screwdriver

Countersink bit (1/2" works well, something similar to this would be fine, it doesn't have to be a titanium coated bit since you're only counter sinking the uhmw): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F3SI2O/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1493158184&sr=1-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Countersink+bit&dpPl=1&dpID=51fQXRD5ZuL&ref=plSrch

A tap (I used 12-24 NC)

4 machine screws (I used 12-24 x 1/2")

Jigsaw or hacksaw (for cutting the UHMW)

 

Drill pilot holes in the J hooks, then run a tap through it to create threads for the screws. Go slow with the tap and use oil when tapping the threads. Cut the UHMW sheet to size with a saw. I tried using a hacksaw, but a jigsaw created much cleaner and straighter edges. Once the UHMW pieces are cut to fit your rack's J hooks, drill and countersink the screw holes in the UHMW. Attach the UHMW with the machine screws and you're done! UHMW doesn't work well with adhesives, so using screws is a more secure method of mounting the pads.

 

Once you've tapped the screw holes in the J hooks, it's very easy to replace the UHMW if it ever wears out. Just unscrew the old UHMW pads and attach a new pair.

Really recommend getting these too: https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-Diffuser/dp/B01M09PBYX

Helps mount to the bottom of the cabinet and the cover will diffuse the light a bit for a nicer look, especially if you have reflective countertops.

A mellow-style base would be great. A little more ambitious than anything I'm considering. I was thinking I'd use a 1/4" thick foam rubber sheet (http://amzn.to/2qjgUz1) as a seal to attach the enclosure to a board with mild concave (e.g.: http://bit.ly/2pN70Wd)

Honestly, I think as long as it's a fine wire mesh you'll be pretty good. I just found this on Amazon, which would certainly work but you could probably to to your local hardware store and see if they have any metal screen and it would probably be a bit cheaper.

A "junk yard" area could also be a cool addition, with burned out car shells or even just some dumpsters (covered in old graffiti obviously).

Another option is using a PEI sheet (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf ). I personally use a mirror and PEI. Nice flat surface with great hold. If you don't have an IKEA near you, Home Depot has a 12 pack of mirrors for $20.

I’m not really sure what mesh grade is but this is the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/TIMESETL-Stainless-12x8-inch-30x21cm-Ventilation/dp/B077M93J18/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1565853291&refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A5485702011&s=industrial&sr=1-1 😅. And yes, I’m planning on red cherry shrimp!

Gallium. The metal that melts in your hands. Not really related to your wishlist, but definitely cool. This is my item.

https://www.amazon.ca/Oil-Slick-Labratory-Resistant-Alternative/dp/B00AWK04IQ

Instead of parchment this stuff is laboratory grade. You can even use it for extractions, I have been and it makes it easy to take from the extraction dish to my purge with no scraping until it's finished ;)

This is the best stuff to store extractions in long term. The two images above are product on PTFE

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene

Amazon is actually pretty good for this kind of stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDLAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475004240&sr=8-1&keywords=uhmw

like this? https://www.amazon.com/Durometer-Smooth-Finish-Backing-Thickness/dp/B000MAEX88/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1562959999&refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A3071283011&s=industrial&sr=1-1 What do you use to mark and cut it?

​

Thanks man. It sound like you know what you are doing.

These channels fit 2nd gen lightstrip almost perfectly!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Interesting, thanks. The Klus looks expensive and maybe needs a more extensive mounting?

So these look about right?

https://www.amazon.com/DOME-SHAPED-Profile-Aluminum-Dome-Shaped-Applications/dp/B017WTJ02K/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1494108415&sr=1-1-catcorr

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Channels-Diffuser-Lightstrip-Mounting-LL-007-M/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1494108486&sr=8-1-fkmr2

http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Ground-Annealed-Thickness-Length/dp/B00CZDPAI2/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421860628&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=starrett+o-1+tool+steel+precision+ground

Here you go sorry I'm a little new to reddit I haven't quite figured out how to post tiny links like the other guy. Also for small-med size knives basically 10 in. and under I really like 3/32 for something bigger like a chopper go 3/16-1/4 in.

it's pretty easy to get UHMW sheet

http://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Weight-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B00CPRDLAW

Yeah that's probably the ticket. I know where I live in the PNW USA finding old wet suits is really common. I'm assuming you're in Canada, so might be a little more tricky? This is probably way overkill (would want something 3 mil or 1/8") but is a good option.

Just Use PTFE Sheets BHogart sells fiberglass reinforced stuff for cheapest. PTFE is totally solvent proof and wont dissolve into your extract like silicone. Additionally its used in medical devices because bacteria have trouble adhering to its surface because its so non stick.

Oilslick sells 16' rolls for 1$ a foot at alot of smoke shops.

BHOgart Has larger rolls of the stuff that is fiberglass reinforced for better heat transfer, Strength, and so it "always lays flat"( so you dont get paper curls on the sides of the sheet in the oven).

I didn't want my strips just glued on so I used these strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While it is a bunch of extra work cutting and attaching these, once done the install is not ever going to fall apart.

Added bonus: the diffuser actually makes the light better in my opinion as it decreases the visibility of each light's reflection on the counter.

I use these aluminum rails for my LED strips https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easy to mount, diffuse the light nicely.

Sorry, I meant the following products (examples):
https://www.elementalled.com/products/diode-led/aluminum-led-strip-light-channels.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8
Basically you enclose the bare ledstrip in an aluminum profile with a (semi) transparant cover of choice so the strip itself is protected and glued one time only. You only have to mount the profile itself so therefore it's easier to move the profile than to undo the glueing.

Oh yeah. Sticks so well that, if the bed is heated, you can't even get the finished object off of it until you wait for it to cool to room temperature without the risk of damaging it.

Amazing stuff that no one should be without.

This is the stuff I have - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Put it on with this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used the Windex+credit card trick for both sides of the adhesive.

Cut it to size with an Xacto knife score and a metal rule. Snaps just like plexi.

You can see it in the original pic. He's sitting on a big yellow slab of the stuff. If you use a Z sensor you'll have to adjust for the height and so on.

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Parts-KYDEX-V-Sheet/dp/B00KDMLJ0A

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

You can make your own fin grip pretty easily

https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-Diffuser/dp/B01M09PBYX/

These would fix that and help diffuse the light better

I used a combination of [magnetic sheets with adhesive] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XNAHMC/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a PEI sheet. Works like a charm

edit: here's some pics of when I was putting it together: https://imgur.com/gallery/kvChO

Oil Slick Sheet Labratory Grade PTFE Roll Solvent Resistant Alternative to Parchment Paper, 48x16" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWK04IQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_01XOBb1C5K69E

I’m pretty sure it’s this

You can get a 12"x24" sheet of Kydex for pretty cheap. Amazon carries ~1/8" thick sheet of the stuff for about $12.50. You can soften it in an oven or with a heat gun to shape it. It is easy to cut by scoring it with a utility knife and snapping it along the score line. You can also cut/drill holes in it to make attachment points for organization.

Yeah, or at the very least the friend should pick up some diffuser channels. Something like this. Exposed LEDs just look cheap.

Have you tried covering any of the glass with foam or anything?
this is what I used on my 20g long but you should be able to use it as well.

Cover the top with foil?

It's a specific material that has properties allowing most fdm materials to stick very well too (PETG too well at times). There is a ton of information in forums on that bed surface.

You usually buy a sheet about 30 thou (0.03") thick and stick straight to the aluminium heatbed or on to the glass bed with 3M double sided.

I bought this one: PEI amazon.ca
But here are tons of suppliers around depending where you are located.

This is the listing I used when I purchased it in 2013 (the price and quality were fine for me, I'd probably buy this again if I wanted to experiment more).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QUVMC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Granted, I'm a geologist that works in the metal's mining industry, so my idea of what is "cheap" for a metal ingot might be a little skewed, as I'm comparing it to the prices of other metal ingots like platinum, silver, zinc, etc.

This tape is really cheap but is also pretty thick. It went by Creamy Goo, Black Jesus, and a couple other names from different companies:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EE9LKRA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've read that post by GreyWolf, I'm fully aware of the Silicone in the Oil Slick Pad. In his BHO Extraction article he lists Polytetrafluorethylene as an acceptable material. I use pyrex, I'm just trying to clarify for you.

This is the product I'm talking about. Teflon is made from PTFE.

PTFE is also safe for Butane exposure: source

they have anvils too

https://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-38-789-Hobby-Anvil/dp/B003ES5T9C

I was hoping for a goldmine but it seems like it's just cheep tools

It might be gallium which is pretty much non-toxic and can be bought on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Pure-grams-GalliumSource/dp/B0051GWA3S

There are two knifemaking subreddits, /r/knifemaking and /r/Bladesmith. If you want to get him steel Amazon stock O1 tool steel which will be much nicer for him to work with than leaf springs - https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Ground-Annealed-Thickness-Length/dp/B00CZDPAI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482297534&sr=8-1&keywords=o1+steel. If you go with that I would suggest getting 5/32 inch thickness and 1.5 or 2 inch width, and whatever length you prefer.

Just in case you change your mind it has been amazing for me

Something like this placed on strategic places? (be sure not to cover the IR leds though)

https://www.amazon.com/Neoprene-Rubber-adhesive-strip-thick/dp/B00EE9LKRA

I tried several different brands. If your countertop is glossy you will see the lights with or without a diffuser. These fit perfectly:

Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels With Diffuser, End Caps and Mounting Clips LED Strip Channels for Max 16mm Wide LED Lightstrip Light Mounting--LL-007-M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6IlKAbJYC67EG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMYFVI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450143196&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=o1+tool+steel&dpPl=1&dpID=31xGT3DXKzL&ref=plSrch

This is where I've gotten my o1 for a long time. Look through the many different size combinations, you'll often find nonsensically cheap steel at certain dimensions. I recommend 1/8 thickness.

[~$20 for the steel; 1/8"x2"x 18"](
http://amzn.com/B000FMYFVI)
Everything for the jig ~$40; I bought two files and rod for the files. I am going to rebuild it with wood-plastic composite.
Micarta- ~$10 for the resin, and 5 minutes of convincing my SO to let me cut up one of her blur shirts :)
Forge ~$80 because of the MAP gas torch.

Haha - I did feel a little weird purchasing from them, because I'm really not rucking that hard :)

Rather just trying to carry a bunch of stuff around a live out of a backpack.

I've seen some other folks purchase a kydex sheet, trace the current frame sheet, then cut it down.

I tried that a while back. Don't waste your time. The steel is VERY low quality and won't harden. If you want to go a simple route, use a reciprocating saw blade. That steel is already hard. You have to be very careful shaping it not to overheat it, but you won't need to harden it after.

Using good quality steel makes a BIG difference. You can get it from McMaster Carr, or even Amazon. I found this hunk on ebay and paid 3 dollars for it.

Pallets or plywood, ratchet straps and some shims. The subs aren't that big and neither are the mains - just use some shims to get it level and pallets or plywood to keep it off the ground and strap it all together and you'll be fine.

I like carrying around these for shims
https://www.amazon.com/Ez-Shim-Heavy-Duty-Shims-count/dp/B002Y0LIQE

I'm not fixing that for me, but if i was, I would use one of the sticky pads

maybe something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Stripping-Non-Slip-Furniture-Thickness/dp/B06ZY83SZJ/

it looks like its not that difficult to make your own crystals. amazon even sells pure bismuth by the pound! Gotta try this sometime

You can buy it on amazon. Like here

Yes its like a cut out square of metal mesh. I bought the ones linked below

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077M93J18?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

As a word to the wise, be careful if using a dremel, especially with thicker stuff ( I used .128" Kydex). Cutting wheels like to pull away and spew melted material and dust. The stuff isn't exactly compliant, which is why they use it for cutting boards.

I simply traced out the material off an existing frame sheet and cut it on a scroll saw. Then cleaned edges with a file. You can find a link to .118" Kydex from Amazon here. I got some in .128" from a material supply place. The thicker it is, the more rigid you'll get.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ES5T9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421831858&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=41FJmWTK50L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

That should get ya to it, sorry for the messy link I'm on mobile.

It has a weird enamel coat that chips off easily so the horn in the front isn't too useful, but $20 shipped for a 9lb anvil is too good to pass up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Y15XDb0DV7TXP

Eat to cut, looks great, would buy again.

It's a roll of parchment paper-like material that's safe to blast directly onto. Here's a link.

good thing its not parchment

http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Slick-Labratory-Resistant-Alternative/dp/B00AWK04IQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422074077&sr=8-1&keywords=ptfe

I would start on some tool steel blanks. Some generally like this. https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Precision-Ground-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B00CZDPAI2

Or cut up a steel circular saw blade, some things like that before you try a firearm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that's what i ordered for my printer. i have the same one, but i use simplify3D. totally worth the money.

This site says it's about as common as silver. Here's a chart that seems to confirm. (Ag-silver, Au-gold, Bi-bismuth) You can definitely make your own bismuth crystals at home, and can buy it from amazon.(not a referral link)

Okay, maybe not quite that small. This one Might not be bad though.

http://www.royalconstrictordesigns.com/ball-python-care-sheet
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?127203-Ball-Python-%28Python-regius%29-Caresheet

hideboxes http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

insulation covers 3 sides of tank https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GAD5G4/

substrate https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0157O1CM8/

iv been bitten once and it doesnt hurt, id rather be bitten then scratched by a cat

i used foil and tape (outside only) to cover 90% of the screen top

I ordered this mesh; TIMESETL 3pcs Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077M93J18?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
The mesh itself is fairy malleable, so i just wrapped it around and used needle nose pliers to clamp it into place on the pipe. The two O rings on either side are the same ones used for the co2 dip tubes on ball lock kegs. If I did this again I would try and find finer mesh than what I expected from that order, but I did test it out with hop pellets and water and only fine particulate made it through, which would settle out anyways when I cold crash. I am actually dry hopping today in the keg freely with 3 oz of cryo so i'm curious to see how it works out.

[PEI for $17] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) this will last you for a long time (Through many many prints) if you are careful with it.

[Transfer tape for sticking PEI to buildplate] (https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Adhesive-Transfer-Sheets/dp/B01HP2CEG8)

[Here is a site with more information] (http://reprap.org/wiki/PEI_build_surface)

Edit: For immediate printing buy a cut sheet of glass from the glass or hardware store, then spray 2 layers of [Aqua net extra strength super hold unscented] (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Aqua-Net-Extra-Super-Hold-3-Unscented-Hair-Spray-11-Oz/10997068) it must be this brand and product. Or you could match ingredients. This method will work for fairly large prints but is not as good as PEI. After each print just spray another coat of hairspray.

Probably have to just search on Amazon, but I found one at least that reviews say fits it: http://amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Lightstrip-Mounting-LL-007-M/dp/B01NCS0WE8/

This company also seems to have a bunch that might be higher quality than the generic chinese ones on Amazon: https://www.solidapollo.com/led-strip-profiles/

Here is an Ebay link at $30/lb +$9 shipping. That's just from a google search, I'm sure you can find it cheaper.

Edit: Of course it's cheaper at Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/KYDEX-Sheet-0-028-Thick-Black/dp/B00KDMLJ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451183913&sr=8-1&keywords=Kydex

http://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1451183913&sr=8-10&keywords=Kydex

I used things like these, my oven, and a YouTube tutorial. Kydex, when heated is very pliable, and cools solid. If you mess up, you can heat and remold again. You only need .06 thickness, any thicker is left to gun holsters. I then use an old belt to help mold a g-clip from a Kydex strip, and thats really it. I haven't bought a sheath in many years. Any further questions, just reply, I'll check back in the morning.

Would this one be fine?

Amazon ships globally?

A2-

01-

I have a roll of foam tape left over from sealing windows. So I used a leather hole punch to make a self stick circle that filled the hole. Granted I had this stuff laying around.

you can buy a pound of bismuth on for 20 bucks and make dozens and dozens of your own on a kitchen stove. You can google up directions, but a basic summary. 1) melt all your bismuth in one container, pour into a second (leave the silvery oxidized film behind) 2)cool as slowly as possible 3) as it begins to turn solid again pour off the liquid, leaving crystals formed around your container.

Olympia Tools 38-789 9 Lb. Hobby Anvil, Cast Iron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ES5T9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZMVEDbZDCADG2 ;)

Sorry I don't have personal recommendation because I don't have a battlestation myself or even a proper bedroom yet. Trying to move really soon here and start remedying that. I just lurk this sub in the meantime to get ideas on what I'm gonna do when I finally move.

Found these though and they seem to have good reviews. But I don't know if they work for the type of lights you have or not so I guess you need to do a bit of research on that.

How about Amazon you pansy.

40 G is $15 on Amazon

$10.50

Amazon has 01 6"x18" in either 1/8" or 1/16" for < $70

http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Precision-Ground-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B00CZDPAI2

UHMW polyethylene will work - you can cut it and dress it like wood - get a 1/2" thick piece, cut to fit the bottom of your workbench legs, countersink and screw it in place - here's a page from a bench-build that has pictures -

>I change it to a “bench anvil”, which is basically a smaller anvil that weighs ~30 pounds, meant to be used one a table to support lighter work.

Which is what I attempted to do here. Any sort of flat steel or cast iron surface can qualify as an anvil in a pinch, even a simple block of steel. Immunity to malleability is the primary goal, because then it can act as a suitable working surface.

I understand why it'd be strange to have a standard sized anvil, and I agree, but I also imagined a smaller, portable sized anvil.

Here is an example of what I had in mind: https://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-38-789-Hobby-Anvil/dp/B003ES5T9C

It may have the same drawbacks as you mentioned, as it is smaller for the sake of portability, but I personally think it fits with the tool kit.

Amazon has them for $22. Match with one of these to attach it.

The actual product doesn't have that weird edge, it's just a flat sheet.

Nope, very easy by the sounds of it (I haven't tried). It's non toxic so not too many issues getting it.

http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Pure-grams-GalliumSource/dp/B0051GWA3S

First search on amazon, 15g for $26

pei sheet

adhesive

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

AND


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got this PEI with this adhesive.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01

Here is the version I've used, for your reference.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GAD5G4/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1510665212&sr=8-18&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=CLEVERBRAND+INC.&dpPl=1&dpID=41Z-j9IlmYL&ref=plSrch

Price has gone up. They also sell strips in 3/8, 1/4, 3/4, etc inch width which are cheaper

It's available on amazon. I'm all over it.

Kids, make your own at home:

http://www.amazon.com/Roto-Metals-BISMUTH-1-Pound-Ingot-99-99-Pure/dp/B001QUVMC8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1256260735&sr=8-1

http://www.amazingrust.com/Experiments/how_to/Bismuth_Crystals.html

After a quick search i found some on amazon. Even has a few people who say they made the crystals from it

Amazon

I bought it in preparation for an experiment that I was going to run on making some very large lab-grown samples of my own.

https://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-38-789-Hobby-Anvil/dp/B003ES5T9C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520018931&sr=8-3&keywords=anvil

kataderple is right, thats what I did. Here is what I used for a hammer
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BHGC6M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also used this anvil
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ES5T9C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First time doing it and I just randomly hammered away sometimes hitting harder but mostly just using the required amount of force to make the dimples.

http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Pure-grams-GalliumSource/dp/B0051GWA3S

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBGHU2S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1DKI5KNZ5CY83&coliid=I1V06DZZB9737Z&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009P8ARHY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1DKI5KNZ5CY83&coliid=IM9D7WHABIFEP

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051GWA3S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1DKI5KNZ5CY83&coliid=I2GNHRONA3TAKX

http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-grams-GalliumSource-LLC/dp/B0051GWA3S

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051GWA3S/

• Natural Water-Based Lubricant - 55 Gallon
  
  
  
• 1500 Live Ladybugs - Guaranteed Live Delivery
  
  
• Gallium 99.99% Pure 15 grams
  
  
• and the classic horse head mask

https://www.amazon.ca/Oil-Slick-Labratory-Resistant-Alternative/dp/B00AWK04IQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484045919&sr=8-1&keywords=ptfe+sheet

http://www.amazon.com/Slick-Sheet-Ptfe-Teflon-Roll/dp/B00AWK04IQ/ref=pd_sim_k_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0XA3A85D338Y6D3D80QP

Is this what you use now?

Some are using ptfe sheets like....

https://www.amazon.com/Oil-Slick-Labratory-Resistant-Alternative/dp/B00AWK04IQ

Maybe this is what you experienced?

http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Slick-Labratory-Resistant-Alternative/dp/B00AWK04IQ


Step your Google game up

Mind throwing up the link to the ptfe you bought?

I've always used this without problems https://www.amazon.ca/Oil-Slick-Labratory-Resistant-Alternative/dp/B00AWK04IQ

this one

Here you go!

Here you go

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE9LKRA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ZNsqdyFwU3DHA

I was thinking some 1/16" thick self adhesive rubber to attach to the mount so your flashlight looks stock. Of course you wouldn't need 33' here but it'll give you an idea of what to look for at the store.

I found this, but it's a bit expensive. Here

You might consider putting it in a diffuser. i.e Diffuser

Correct...typo, ws2812b.

LEDs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGSZLGX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

NodeMCU:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffuser:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M09PBYX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2A power adapter (x2):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777HWN87/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels With Diffuser, End Caps and Mounting Clips LED Strip Channels for Max 16mm Wide LED Lightstrip Light Mounting--LL-007-M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_taa_JwoJAbT72Z211

I used these, there are lots of size and positioning options if you search amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Lightstrip-Mounting-LL-007-M/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1543432240&sr=8-10&keywords=hue+light+strip+diffuser

Not OP, but these are the ones I have in my living room.

someone posted a link to these a few days ago, i bookmarked it but dont remember what redditor posted originally... you might be able to use these on the ceiling and put the strips in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/TIMESETL-Stainless-12x8-inch-30x21cm-Ventilation/dp/B077M93J18/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1541795786&sr=8-10&keywords=stainless+mesh+A4

I'm so sorry for bugging you so much but you're so helpful! That screen is out of stock until the end of the month so I'm going to order this.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077M93J18/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AZIHONJFR8123&psc=1

​

Last question, what do you use for actual light?

just don't use the silicone containers at all and if you don't want to use the jars use the PTFE films:

https://www.amazon.com/Oil-Slick-Labratory-Resistant-Alternative/dp/B00AWK04IQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482950687&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+slick+ptfe

https://terpproof.com/

$14.99 + $7.70 shipping from [RotoMetals via Amazon](http://www.amazon.com/Roto-Metals-BISMUTH-1-Pound-Ingot-99-99-Pure/dp/B001QUVMC8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1256265176&sr=8-1 "shipping in the U.S. I think")

$12.99 + $6.38 shipping (to Utah) directly from [RotoMetals](http://www.rotometals.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BISMUTH&CartID=1 "not sure about shipping rates to other places")

In used this PEI sheet: https://amzn.com/B0013HKZTA

And this adhesive: https://amzn.com/B007Y7CZDM

Try to get the adhesive down as smoothly and evenly as possible. No overlaps or gaps if possible. I scored and snapped the PEI to match the build plate, then applied the tape to the PEI, then applied that to the bed.