Reddit mentions: The best material handling products

Step 0: Read this entire tutorial several times.

Step 1: Remove the strings. If this will cause the bridge to fall off, mark the body where the bridge is EXACTLY with masking tape.

Step 2: Determine if the crack runs over any bracing on the underside of the top, and if that bracing has been damaged. You can do this several ways; I use a small mirror and a flashlight looking at that crack, and the bracing. Do a google image search for what mandolin bracing looks like, and you'll know those little spines are what you'll be looking for.

Turn off the lights in the room you're working in and use the light to see if there are other cracks as well.

If the bracing is cracked, you'll have to fix that too. It's just as important as the top.

Step 2: You will need to purchase a bottle of Titebond glue, some cheap superglue, a pack of neodymium magnets (cheap on [amazon]https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517603237&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=deodymium+magnets)), a big roll of masking tape (get a name brand), a roll of string, a pair of safety goggles, some nitrile gloves, a paper towel or two, and two to three popsicle sticks to do this on the cheap. You also want a towel you don't care for as well as a table that you'll be able to use for a few days.

Instead of a roll of string, you can purchase clamps that extend from one side of the mandolin to the other. String is cheap, and luthiers have used it for hundreds of years.

I use Titebond II for my repairs, but I or III should be just as good. Depending on how old the instrument is, it may have originally used Hide Glue, if you want to keep the original glue type.

The tops of guitars and other instruments that use the top as a reverberation device (the "tonewood") are usually made of Sitka Spruce. The Janka Hardness Scale shows Sitka Spruce as:

Janka Hardness: 510 lbf (2,270 N)

The Janka Hardness scale of a popsicle stick (usually Baltic Birch) which isn't actually a wood, but a grade of wood. It means that, generally, popsicle sticks are pretty variable hardness from stick to stick.

Approximate substitutes to show variability:

Yellow Birch -- Janka Hardness: 1,260 lbf (5,610 N)

Paper Birch -- Janka Hardness: 910 lbf (4,050 N)

The hardness of very hard woods is in the 10- or 20,000 N, so we are far from that.

This is important to note because you generally want the same hardness wood as the original top was made with to patch cracks in the top, so that the tone resonates properly to avoid deadening the sound. As Baltic birch is not much harder, but easily obtainable, it will serve as our "cleat".

Step 3: Tape up the corners of the instrument (where the top meets the sides) with three layers of masking tape, and also tape around the edge of the break as absolutely close as you can get with as little wood showing as possible. Patience is key at this point, and you don't want to mess up the top or the corners, or cause more issues. When you get to laying glue out, things happen quickly, so be sure that everything is very close at hand.

Step 4: Cut 3 pieces of a popsicle stick about an inch long a piece. Round the corners on these three inch-long pieces of popsicle stick. You now have 3 popsicle stick cleats. These three are all you'll need, but we have extra sticks just in case you lose them or butcher one.

Step 5: Tape the top of the magnets with a square of tape that more or less covers the top of the magnet. Lay a generous dot of the cheap superglue on the back of the tape that is covering the magnet, and put a second square of tape on top of that so that the sticky side is up. This is your clamp and tape sandwich.

From the bottom to the top, your sandwich looks like: Magnet, tape, superglue, backwards tape with sticky side in the air.

Do this for three magnets.

Place your three inch-long popsicle stick ovals onto the sticky side of the tape.

Your sandwich now looks like, from bottom to top: Magnet, tape, superglue, backwards tape with sticky side in the air, popsicle stick cleat.

Step 6: Lay the mandolin down on the towel that's on the table, with the neck to the left. Position the masking tape under the neck to support the neck. If it doesn't reach, stick a few rags or an old shirt under there til it's nice and pillow-y soft, and supports the neck.

If you have clamps, ensure are padded and ready.

If you're using string: Tie a fist-sized loop in the string, so that you can pass your hand and the entire roll of string freely through the loop. Position this loop on the other side of the mandolin, with the rest of the string and the ball extending toward you under the mandolin.

Step 7: This is where the fun begins. Ensure you have the next hour free of distractions. This will go quickly.

The cleats will be positioned perpendicular to the grain of the top of the mandolin. The grain of the top of the mandolin is usually from the tailpiece to the neck. The goal is to not only position the cleats directly underneath the crack, but have the long side of the cleat going from where you're sitting to where the loop of string is. This will ensure a strong bond and ensure that it doesn't break again.

This cleat will be on the underside of the top of the mandolin, so do a test run of placing the three (dry) magnet sandwichs underneath the crack, and placing the other three magnets at equal intervals along the crack. These will be your cleat clamps.

If you're using bar clamps instead of the string, try a dry run of using them to squeeze the sides of the mandolin together now. Not too much pressure - don't crack the corners or sides.

This is the time to get this correct. When you think you've got the idea down, remove the dry run pieces and get ready for gluing.

Step 8: Place titebond on the tops of the cleats. Rub it around with your finger. You don't want too little or too much; you want just enough that the glue will stick and set.

Glue your mandolin crack with the titebond. You don't want too little; Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels. Position the cleats under the crack on the inside of the mandolin at equal intervals, with the grain perpendicular to the grain of the top of the mandolin, and clamp up with the magnets. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels.

Clamp up the sides so that the crack comes together. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels.

If you're using string, take the ball of string and run it through the loop. Start wrapping from top right to bottom left, then bottom left to top right of the mandolin body. Move inward to the center of the body. Your goal here is to ensure a tight clamping and the crack to be sealed. Clean up any squeeze out with the paper towels. Work slowly but purposefully.

Step 9: Let this sit for 24 hours. Don't touch it. Don't fiddle with it. Leave it alone.

Step 10: After 24 hours, unwrap it or take the bar clamps away, take the magnets away (carefully peeling the tape away) leaving only the cleats on the underside, and clean up any popped-out glue seam that you see with a carefully placed blade, ensuring you don't scratch the top of the mandolin.

Restring, and it's fixed!

Or you can take it to an instrument repair shop and they'll do allll this for you.

Not all of this is strictly competitive advice, necessarily, but quality of life things:

DO Hydrate. Assuming you're not coming from a desert climate, Las Vegas is extremely dry. Not keeping on top of your water consumption can wear on your stamina over the three days (particularly if you're also planning on imbibing adult beverages). Also, the venue has a strict "no outside food/beverages" policy, so consider bringing empty container to fill inside the venue (tap water is in the bathroom and they usually have water coolers stocked).

DO make sure you're getting some sitting in. Although a lot of players' instinct is to stand for all phases of every game, taking the time to rest by sitting when you aren't directly interacting with the game can save you a lot of energy to carry you through the long weekend. Generally speaking, you're going to put a lot of miles on your feet over the weekend. Walking from your room to the convention, walking to get food, walking to the bathroom. Nearly everything you want is going to require a walk to get to and it adds up over the weekend. Get the rests where you can.

DO bring comfortable walking shoes. For the reasons above, you're going to be doing a lot of leg work and your feet will thank you if you plan accordingly.

DO Consider bringing a rolling cart for your army. Table space is limited to basically just the game board, with very little surface area to devote to storage during game, basically, you have the floor (danger of getting stepped on and added work to stoop and grab things) and, unless it's been moved elsewhere, a single chair (but that also takes up your sitting space). I saw a few people with these carts last year and I was super jealous at how convenient it was.

DO know that the catered food from the venue is probably the worst option, historically. Although I'm certainly open to the possibility that they'll improve this year, the lunch catered by the venue was so understaffed and slow last year that many people couldn't even get from the back of the line to the front in the time given for lunch break. Personally, I just ate my food in line and paid for the empty trays just to make time. There's a food court in the basement of Bally's that almost certainly is faster, even if it requires a short walk. Alternatively, there's always the in-casino convenience stores if you only have time to cram a candy bar into your face before heading back.

DO Consider your Sunday plan and how you want to spend it. Unless you're in the top tables, the 40K Championships end on Saturday. There is a Sunday event for players who don't make top tables, if you wish. But you need to ask yourself if you want to spend that time playing or enjoying the rest of the convention and/or Las Vegas. Personally, the first few years, I would always join in the Sunday events...and would end up feeling MISERABLE by the end. Too much drinking. Too little sleep, etc. I learned my lesson that I'd rather spend Sunday enjoying the city with my teammates and relaxing rather than pushing on for a third day. It varies person to person, but the last thing you want to do is drop early on Sunday. Better to play it safe and plan the day doing other activities.

It sucks basically. I'm not sure about the registration part, but I think that's if you haven't already bought tickets online and dpn't have your paperwork/passes, etc ready to go.

You definitely want a cart if you have a tower, the first year me and my friends went we finagled my local friend dropping us off and we stayed with his comp at the center (I think that's how that went down, lots of alcohol since and during) and we got an XL Uber to get back home when we were ready to leave the BYOC.

FYI, when we left late at night the main entrances to the convention center were closed, so we had to go out another exit... Down stairs.... That was fun.

Second year was more of the same except I bought a laptop for QuakeCon and this kind of stuff so it was less stressful than lugging a tower and monitor around, but basically you've gotta huff your stuff in someway or another.

I remember sitting out waiting for our turn into the fried chicken place nearby (it's good check it out) and a poor guy was walking down the street carrying a monitor, that's no bueno, you wanna get an uber, a ride or something, just so they can pull up and drop you off at the best entrance.

So yes, get a cart like this like I've used:

https://www.amazon.com/Magna-Personal-Capacity-Aluminum-Folding/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527810216&sr=8-1&keywords=magna+cart

And plan to have a way to drop you off at the entrance, I for sure didn't want to wheel my tower through the Austin streets and hope nothing pops loose, etc, and breaks on the way.

edit: well from what someone else has said it appears the badges weren't mailed this year, so if I were you I'd plan to get in line for registration with your computer, get your badge, then go on to the BYOC from there. If they do it like QuakeCon does, someone will come down the line and give people tags and stuff for their computers to streamline the process. Good luck!

Sure. The easy way to see how it's done is to google DIY door frame pull up bar, which ALERT contains one photo of a totally naked woman doing a pull up. You can look at the images to see how others did it, and if you click on one of them, google gives you the option to go to the Web page the image is on, which will give you DIY instructions. Some people use pipes, some wood frames, and some give directions on mounting the bar on wooden posts in the yard. One shows the pipes mounted on a ceiling in a garage. Lots of better illustrations than I could give.

Assisted pull ups can be done without bungee cords if you make your own TRX setup with your door frame pull up bar. Use straps long enough to reach the floor and sturdy enough to support your weight. Lay on your back and pull yourself up on a strap. Look at the TRX website for ideas. Use your body weight as resistance until you can do a full vertical pull up.
You don't need TRX straps a $200; I've bought comparable straps on Amazon where they're called nylon lashing straps or securing straps. Some have buckles, some have velcro, some have plastic snapping latches. Get a couple that will support your weight with some adjustable closure system (metal buckles that catch on the nylon anywhere on its length, for example).

If you prefer bungee cords, buy two that will support your weight long enough to reach the floor from your bar, with some additional length to let you attach the cord to the bar and then to a plank. Drill holes in the plank (short enough to fit in the door, long enough to stand on, put the cords through the holes and secure. This will take some experimenting. Make the cords short enough the plank isn't on the floor when you're not on it, but long enough it touches when you are on it. Use cords that will give you enough boost to let you lift yourself with effort but not enough to launch you. :-> Using multiple cords will let you adjust their resistance without having to buy a new ones every time you gain strength -- just remove one to lower their lifting power.

You might find it simpler using a TRX approach than bungees. Note that Target sells a door frame pull up bar for under thirty bucks with bonus ab straps. :-> Instructions on hanging it (notice the crack in the wall above the frame). Notice she uses a chair and gives herself a boost with one leg instead of using counterweights or bungees (but take your leg off the chair when you're up and let yourself down slowly -- see [here]9https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=W_vw0P8EVwQ#t=138). I wonder if those artworks above the fireplace are body molds of her?

So figure out what works for you. Whether it's the counterweight system with weights you already have or a Target pull up bar or a set of pipes you put together yourself, have fun.

Where to start with my update.

I began collecting the parts for the controller. I am using a BME280 for the temp and humidity sensor, this little screen for reading conditions at the chamber, 8 channel relay to control the various electronics, this fan and this filter for fresh air.

Here is an album of updated photos. The first is a blast gate controlled by a servo to control the fresh air flow. When the fan turns on the servo will open the gate and allow the fan to suck air out (more on that later). Next up is the freezer with the collar on. Its not put together properly yet but just a rough test fit shows its looking good. Then I have two inside shots of the chamber itself.

After talking with someone who understands air flow much better than I do, I changed the position of fan and filter as well as direction. The fan is going to suck air out from one side and the other will have the filter on it. This will keep the lid down, where as if the fan pumped air in it could lead to a pressure build up and the lid may crack open slightly. The elbows are put in so its not just the top air that is circulating. I am thinking of turning them so they don't point straight down but for now its good.

The inside shot show the slots made to hold up to 7 bars. I am going to seal in the collar with a piece of wood on the top then fill it with spray foam insulation and silicone it to the freezer.

The other thing that has changed since I last posted was that I was going to try to do the code myself. As I got parts in and tried to put something together it became clear there is no way I can do it. After searching around I put out a bid on upwork.com and now I am working with a friendly fellow from Nepal. We haven't gotten to far but I am excited by his proposal and he will be adding the ability for me to control it from a webpage.

Anyway that is it for now. I can see there isn't much activity on this post or another related post but I am going to follow through with the updates because in my searches for this project I cam across a lot of half finished ideas and projects. RemindMe! 2 months

I have a 2x2 tent and a Can Fan S-400, which was what my hydro shop recommended when I was getting started. There are no doubt cheaper 4" fans on Amazon, but it seems very well made and has a 5 year warranty. I also have a Vivosun 4" fan, which I run freestanding with an extra carbon filter attached to scrub the air during harvest. It works, and isn't especially noisy, but feels very cheaply made.

I've heard people say that a 6" fan turned way down can quietly move a lot of air, but haven't tried it, and a 6" fan on full speed could suck in the tent walls too much or even tear them. (I get pretty strong negative pressure with my 4" fan on full!)

I haven't used any fans with an integrated speed controller, but the external fan speed controllers that actually reduce voltage are vastly superior to the cheap ones that just rapidly flip power on and off -- depending on the fan motor type, the latter can damage the motor or produce loud buzzing as you slow it down past a certain point. When I tried one with mine, anything below 80% or so started buzzing. The better controllers cost a bit more ($70 vs. $15), but since it's actual industrial equipment it should have good resale value.

My tent is in my home office and I don't find the noise problematic, if that helps.

For a 2x2 tent, it's probably more effective to control humidity in the surrounding room, rather than putting a dehumidifier in the tent.

Congrats on the job!

[Tiffen Variable ND filter] (http://amzn.to/2mw8AY7) is a necessity to me, especially when outside.

This shoulder rig is really an impressive tool for the price.

Husky Multi-tool is my favorite multi-tool

A good tripod like Davis & Sanford model is probably one of the best purchases I've ever made (it's great as-is, and is even better when you upgrade the fluid head to a Manfrotto Video Head).

Pelican SD Card case not only provides protection, but also helps you keep organized.

Pelican 1510 with Padded Divider Case has been my main camera case for well over a year, and has saved my life on multiple occasions (downpours, falling down stairs, etc). I use the top organizer on it as well quite a bit.

This Apurture light is a great run-n-gun LED light that i prefer over costlier alternatives.

Joby Gorillapod is always in my camera bag for random uses. I use it mainly for a makeshift hair light mount, but I've gone as far as mounting my b-cam on it for timelapses.

Merrell Moab Waterproof Shoes are the best shooting shoes I've ever worn.

This Foldable Cart is incredible for me... I never go to a shoot without it. It folds up and fits in my small jeep along with the rest of my gear without an issue, and it gives me a workbench when deployed on location.

A watch with a compass is very important to me if I'm doing exteriors and have no idea where the sun is at due to cloud cover.

Anyway those are some odds and ends I could think of that I use on a day to day basis.

I haven't heard of anyone doing that. I guess it could work, but how effective would it be? I can't say. If you wanted to experiment, maybe get some P100 filters and test it out on some alcohol or acetone fumes.

What I do to vent fumes, and I suspect what most people do, is to simply run a duct with a fan to a window. Any 4" or 6" inline duct fan will work well. They're easy to mount, they're cheap, and they're very powerful.

This 6" inline fan is the one that I use. I have it plugged into a speed control because I rarely need it's full 400 CFM sucking power. I usually use it at about half power. I mounted it under my workbench with the output duct permanently installed in an adjacent window. I keep the input duct retracted under the table so I can pull it out when I need it.

I don't have any fancy system for this. When I'm cleaning a part and I need to vent the fumes, I just pull out the duct from under the table and rest it on the workbench next to the cleaning vats (being careful not to suck up any paper towels or nitrile gloves... for the tenth time). It's a bit ghetto, but it's very effective. I usually can't smell anything when the fan is running. Even isopropyl alcohol fumes get sucked away faster than they can reach my nose.

Hope that helps.

A portable A/C unit sound like your best option. Like the other post said, go for a dual hose unit if possible. These are more expensive but worth it. The single hose units will need to draw air from the outside albeit indirectly. I built a box around the lower coils of a single hose portable AC unit to draw air from the outside directly into the unit. The saved me from pulling air in from all over the house and running the building AC more.

As far as the unattended requirement, most portable AC units should have drain plugs. You can run a small hose from the upper and lower drains into a condensate pump. You then run a small hose from the pump out the window or to a nearby drain. The pump will gather the moisture into a small reservoir. Once the pump reservoir fills to a certain level, it will pump the water out the window or to the drain. Everything you need can be bought at most big box home improvement stores or amazon.

Condensate pump: Little Giant 554425 VCMA-20ULS Condensate Removal Pump. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rYpVDbFDQ8239

Example AC unit:
Whynter Elite ARC-122DS 12,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable AC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AA8WOAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x1pVDbBCRNERY

Tip: when buying the AC unit, make sure it has an upper and lower drain that have threaded or securable attachments. The Amazon link has a picture of the rear where you can see one between the hoses and one at the bottom. Take the screw caps off and then take them to the local plumbing home improvement store. Use the caps to find the proper size plastic connectors with a nib to connect tubing to.

Also, look at insulating the hoses to avoid unnecessary heat transfer. The hoses will get hot and are plastic so they will transfer the heat. Some simple pipe wrap can make a huge difference.

Screen the hoses from outside insects and critters. Keep in mind that even a screen can create back pressure. I dont like to screen right at the hose outlet. But if using the windows built inscreen, some air can be reflected into the intake, so a little blocking material can help the in and out flows.

Hi /u/Mcturtle101 - I recommend you book a few jobs while you're still in school with the equipment you have and use the money you earn to buy new gear instead of spending your startup capital before you have any income.


That said, when you're ready, you can set up a very capable 4K production studio with $5000. Here's how:


Camera:

[Panasonic GH4 4K camera: $1698] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00I9GYG8O/?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&condition=new&creative=390957&keywords=Panasonic%20DMC-GH4&linkCode=ur2&qid=1404250305&s=electronics&sr=1-1&tag=battleforthew-20)

[Samyang 16mm T2.2 cine lens for Canon mount $408] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=121359782091&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) (you can use this lens on your T3i, which you should keep as a B camera)

[Canon to micro 4/3 Speed Booster - $94] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=281240980971&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg)

[Sigma 30mm f2.8 lens ~ $199] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQXL6OY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00BQXL6OY&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (general purpose autofocusing lens)


[Panasonic 45-175mm power zoom - $449] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J5TZWK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005J5TZWK&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (an autofocusing power zoom can be very useful for events)

Support:

[Ravelli AVTP Professional Tripod ~ $130] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00139W0XM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00139W0XM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)

[Glide Gear Tripod Track Dolly - $179] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006O130X8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B006O130X8&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)

[Glide Gear Dolly Track - $197] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0090UF61Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0090UF61Y&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (you can get higher impact with a 12 foot dolly track than a 3 foot slider)

[Photography & Cinema PR-1 Shoulder Rig - $250] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2WTNZE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00A2WTNZE&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)

Lighting:

[3 F&V R-300 Ring Lights - $597] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY0J4OY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AY0J4OY&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (these lights double as studio lights and field lights)

[3 Milk Diffusion Filters - $75] (http://www.adorama.com/FVMWDR300.html?KBID=66297)

[Ring Light Rail Mount - $40] (http://www.adorama.com/FV15RMR300.html?KBID=66297)

Sound:

[JuicedLink Riggy Micro 222 low noise preamp - $329] (http://www.adorama.com/JDRM222.html?KBID=66297)

[Rode NTG-2 Shotgun Mic - $269] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00093ESSI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00093ESSI&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)

[OnStage Microphone Boom - $99] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZO5WM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002ZO5WM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)

You'll also need a few light stands, batteries and cables, but with the right skills and just a little over $5000, this setup will give you the ability to produce image and sound quality that will match or beat anything your local competition can provide.

Hope this is helpful and good luck in your new business!

Bill

I just went through getting the temperature down in a dining room / sun room at one of my vacation rentals. In my case the room stayed up to 15 degrees (fahrenheit) hotter than the rest of the house during the summer. It has 9 windows or glass doors facing southwest / southeast, which in Texas makes for a pretty significant solar load.

I changed three things: One was to put in reflective insulated mylar sheeting above the room - that was good for at least 7 degrees. I highly recommend this as a first step if you can fit it in your space.

The second was to alter the AC ducting by installing a variable output high capacity inline duct fan into one of the ducts feeding the room. This fan runs continuously, boosting the amount of air that comes into the room when the AC is running, and when the AC is idle there's still output from that vent as it pulls a bit of air from all the other rooms. Made a 3 to 4 degree improvement.

The last change was to install white cellular blinds from Ikea on all the windows and doors. When pulled down halfway they keep the room 1 to 2 degrees cooler and when pulled down all the way they keep the room 2 to 3 degrees cooler. EDIT: We actually used those in a different room. In the sunroom we used a lighter colored model of these blinds. Had we used the cellular blinds we'd have probably gotten another degree improvement.

All of these changes are relatively inexpensive and the net result is a room that's within a couple of degrees of the rest of the house.

I was in the same predicament. Picked up two sets of these, fashioned one high and one lower, then anchored it to the wall stud. Not super beautiful, but it gives me enough peace of mind and kind of blends in (lucky my speakers are black). I feel as though its a decent solution, however nothing is going to beat hard anchoring with metal hooks into the enclosure. Hope this helps! Would love to hear some other ideas as well!

Here's an enormous one, that you should be able to cut down. But it's always most important to figure out what works best for you. Good luck!

Wall26 24"x 60" (2 by 5 feet) .30mil Super Strong Flexible Magnet Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GQ048EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-PE7CbS45996S

I think they are pretty standard magnets. You need the “super magnets / rare earth magnets” that have a chrome look.

They are rates by pull per lbs.

I have not yet tested this on my 3. When I do, I will try to put the magnets inside the front license place holder that came with the car and inside the bumper. I would suggest lining the license plate holder with felt.

Here’s as example. There are stronger magnets than this on Amazon.
10Pc Super Strong N52 Neodymium Magnet 1.26" x 1/8" NdFeB Discs, The World's Strongest & Most Powerful Rare Earth Magnets by Applied Magnets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSTKTSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7x7TBbSCEM2PC

I’ll have my car back from the shop next week. Maybe this will be my first DIY project and I’ll post something on reddit.

• A good socket set
  
  
• Vice grips
  
  
• Pliers (long and short)
  
  
• Screwdriver set
  
  
• Drill
  
  
• 2 wheel folding truck (like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS/, they're super useful when moving yourself or other people)
  
  
• Prybar (I have a set of 3 seperate lengths, they're surprisingly useful)
  
  
• Car jack and jack stands
  
  
• Creeper (to get under a vehicle)
  
  
• GOOD Jumper cables (can't emphasize enough, quality matters, I spent $60 on a set that's 25 ft long and heavy duty enough for any vehicle, makes a huge difference being able to park the helper vehicle behind the disabled one and have the cables reach)
  
  
• Tow straps (especially if you have a truck, but it's nice to have with any vehicle since you'll often find that finding people that are willing to help you pull your vehicle out of a ditch is easy, but they usually don't have a two cable/strap)

I've been rolling with this bag for a few weeks now:

https://www.vikingbags.com/cruise-cordura-black-motorcycle-seat-luggage-1452-prd1.htm?

I've gotta say, it's pretty awesome. It is absolutely huge. When I get to work all of my gear is easily stored in there, with room to spare. Padded leather coat, chaps, helmet, gloves (gauntlets and standard), glasses,etc. Plus I always have a full change of clothes, 5 bottles of water, my jump box, rain gear, rain cover for the bag, and a ton of miscellaneous small items.

Loads of mounting options, including a strap that goes over a backrest if you want to mount on a luggage rack behind your sissy bar/seat back. I just strap mine on my back seat - no luggage rack or or anything. They have a strap system that goes under your seat. I didn't like the way the mounting system looked when I left it on the bike (every day) and took the bag inside with me so I just bought these straps:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017902W8G/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use 6 of those straps (cut to length) and just loop them around my struts. Works great, doesn't move in an inch and I use the backpad. Takes about 2 minutes to mount it, 1 to remove it, no permanent attachments or anything unsightly. Also works as a fantastic backrest. For ~$150, it's hard to beat.

Dont quote me on this because I am not sure what type of magnet they use but I have used rare earth magnets before and those things look like the one in the dynastash and they are super strong. just google rare earth magnets...you can get them on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD2X45M/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b1NcM6l_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=W6YR9F9WSGGQ8D2Q9PXA&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a9b59d08-5252-5d67-bf88-a2ac96acd022&pf_rd_i=1265130011

there is an amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Giant-VCMA-20ULS-Automatic-Condensate/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521259818&sr=8-3&keywords=condensate+pump .

That is a condensate pump. It's got some power to it so it will send the water wherever you want it to go. Get a long piece of tubing and route it from the condensate pump to wherever a good drain is. The same drain your washing machine or dishwasher uses could be an option. Either way, a proper condensate pump is your best solution. Trust me, a good condensate pump is worth the 50 bucks.

Haha, nice. I was annoyed at the price, but it's been great for me and seems well built, and the wheels are really helpful if you don't have carpet. The drain extension is just barely long enough and tall enough to reach over the edge of my tote if I put the dehumidifier on a 1" board.

If you really want to pump the water somewhere, look for a condensate pump, like this

The monitor carrier is a great idea to protect the screen. BUT, for the cpu I suggest getting a cart like this and bungie cords to tie it all down on while traveling through the airport instead of trying to lug the case and monitor physically. I have used one of these for years, it was worth every penny.

Other suggestions:

If you have the original boxes for both, I highly suggest that you ship them via Fedex or UPS instead in their original boxes.

If you are going to fly with them, and you want to chance checking them to fly in the underbelly of the plane, I suggest you pull out your Graphics card(s) and Hard Drives, and place them in your carry on luggage, I've seen the end results of the TSA taking apart computers to inspect these part and then just tossing them back into the case willy-nilly.

Whoa, quite a bit to unpack here. I'd say you can pare this down by a lot if you're just starting out. There's not really a need to spend that much and get so many separate products. If you do want these though, here's the edits I would make:

The biggest issue I'm seeing here is the lack of quality microfibers for general purpose use; the 50 pack cleaning cloths you're getting are nice for interior, jambs and wheels, but I'd be skeptical about using them on paint.

There's a bit of redundancy as well; no need to get WetCoat, ONR Wash and Wax and a spray wax. Wet Coat would work well enough as a sealant, and you can use either ONR W+W or the spray wax to top up on it (although with how easy WetCoat is to use, that wouldn't even be necessary).

If you switch the ONR W+W to the normal blue ONR, then you can get rid of the glass cleaner and Lexol as well. Blue ONR is a fantastic window cleaner. Modern automotive leather has a polyurethane coating on it, so you're not actually cleaning the leather itself; because of that, there's no need to condition it. Just keeping it free from oil and dirt buildup is all you need. You can also get a clay bar by itself instead of a clay kit; ONR will be the much cheaper way to lubricate your car while claying.

Also, this is the cart I'm using; it's expensive, but awesome.

I'm more likely to leave most anything lying around versus putting it back in a box, especially if it's a high-quantity cheap thing like bobby pins. As a result they're just everywhere. If all I had to do was hold up the 5 I used that day to a magnetic strip on the wall/inside of the medicine cabinet that I have to open anyway, I'd be more likely to "put them away".

For some reason I can't be bothered to open/close an altoids tin for them and it looks more untidy (for me) to just leave one open with things spilling out of it. There are all-acrylic transparent cosmetics drawers available but unless I'm at Goodwill they cost more than I'm willing to spend.

If you're into sticking just about everything onto magnetic surfaces (spices on the inside of cupboard doors, memos + magnets on a strip by the front door, upright office inbox things on the side of the fridge next to the sink for dish brushes, medicine reminder boxes on the wall next to the bed) then it's more economical to buy a pack/long strip of them for $15 like this versus some specialty things like results for "cosmetics drawer organizer".

You can use things like tackle boxes or probably come up with all kinds of alternatives but if we assume that I'm not very clever or creative or punctual or organized then this is a neat-but-not-life-changing tip.

Edit: Also I know I gave you amazon links but honestly I'm in a weird living situation where my elderly Chinese landlady gets my packages delivered to her front door since UPS/USPS can't or won't deliver to my backyard apartment and I feel really rude/intrusive having her need to be a middleman for dumb little packages, like $4 adhesive cable clips or heavy things like a vertical bike rack, so I don't like to order things that frequently despite having prime. So while some of the organizers are $12 on amazon, they're often marked up 160% at physical stores that might not price-match. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Hello /u/Terrence_Phallic - you should be able to put together an affordable production studio for £2500:

Camera

• [Panasonic GH4 for £1175] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321593315104&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) (after [£100 mail in rebate from Panasonic] (http://g-ec2.images-amazon.com/images/G/02/uk-ce/panasonic/2014/Q4/Christmas_Cashback_TandCs.pdf)). I own this camera, and it is the best value for money large sensor, interchangeable lens 4K camera you can buy right now.
  
  Lenses
  
  
• [Canon EF to micro 4/3 focal reducer - £89] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MN7KCYM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00MN7KCYM&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) so you can use Canon mount cine lenses, reduce the crop on the micro 4/3 sensor and improve the light gathering performance of your lenses by one stop
  
  
• [Samyang 14mm T3.1 lens in Canon mount - £275] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=161461455085&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg)
  
  
• [Samyang 85mm T1.5 in Canon mount - £250] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=331127939578&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg)
  
  Follow Focus
  
  
• [Lens Gear Ring with Rod - £8.46] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008OFAE04/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B008OFAE04&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21)
  
  Tripod
  
  
• [Ravelli AVTP Professional with 75mm ball head - £61] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00139W0XM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00139W0XM&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21). I own this tripod. It is robust, well-built and has a nice, smooth fluid drag head.
  
  
• [Glide gear tripod track dolly wheels - £125] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006O130X8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B006O130X8&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21)
  
  
• [Glide gear dolly track - £133] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00927FCI2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00927FCI2&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21)
  
  Sound
  
  
• [RODE VideoMic Studio Boom Kit - £169] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00OKG6WHU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00OKG6WHU&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21)
  
  Lighting
  
  
• [Two softboxes with white, black and green backdrops - £89] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HNIJG8O/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00HNIJG8O&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21)
  
  
• [F&V R-300 ring light - £175] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AY0J4OY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00AY0J4OY&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21). I own this ring light and it produces soft light for faces. If you shoot through the ring, you can get away with single light portraits. Later, when you buy or build your rig, you can buy an [inexpensive adapter] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=390947725140&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) and mount this light directly to your 15mm rails.
  
  
• [Light stand for ring light - £13] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0011363NS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B0011363NS&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21)
  
  With this setup, you can produce well-lit, high resolution motion pictures with smooth dolly shots and green screen visual effects.
  
  The camera has decent preamps and manual level control with audio meters and a headphone jack, so you should be able to get decent sound from the Rode recorded directly to the camera.
  
  Later, you will want to buy an external recorder, a better microphone, more lenses, a shoulder rig, etc. - but this should get you started.
  
  Good luck!
  
  
  

haha wow, just checked on amazon. Apparently I got this April, 2015 and it still works great for me. It's been used a ton, thrown around, etc and it's still holding up good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HVVSDU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these are pointless to have. when you have big orders (or big items like cases of water, toilet paper and paper towel) those things will take up space and you'll be thinking about where to put them. if you got 2 orders you simply use two carts to make it easier. if the second order is small enough to fit in the top and bottom of the cart then you only need one cart. if you got 3 orders you put the smaller order on the top and bottom of two carts and the other two orders in each cart. it's not rocket science.

if you want to spend money on equipment your better off buying a few of these in different colors (i have two of each color for a total of 6) and a dolly like this

Hey this was my shipping accessories I use.

1. Clever made collapsable crate https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UM4D5NS/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_tr_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9D7QR3TEJCE1YV1008GP
   
   
2. Collapsable hand cart
   https://www.amazon.com/Magna-Personal-Capacity-Aluminum-Folding/dp/B000HVVSDU
   
   
3. Clever made cooler bags (soft and foldable) buy 2
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KPW8YWS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495113854&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=clevermade%2Bcooler%2Bbag&dpPl=1&dpID=51EpcSKOcbL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
   
   I use most of this stuff when not working instacart so it's a win win for me.
   

Is this a wall-mounted bookshelf or a free standing one that you want to secure against tipping over?

If its the latter, you'll want to use safety straps secured to a wall stud. Something like these would work.

I suggest getting these items Silver Sculpey Get one pack for each bullet splash you want to have.

Then get these. Make sure you have two magnets or each bullet splash.

Then I'd make one claw arm not two as it's a pain to go without two hands. To make the claw I'd grab some foam board.

Get some Super glue or hot glue.

Silver paint that matches the baked shade of the clay.

some blue paint that matches your cop uniform.

Start with the clay, open it and save the wrapper- shape the stuff into dishes with a entry hole or deep point. From the center of each dish make spirals that come out - You could even make the clay into a long snake and coil it around and around to make your dishes. Then make an indent to place one of your magnets flush into the base and make it 10% deeper and wider. Follow the instructions and bake it. Grab super glue and attach one magnet to the dish and the other threw your cop uniform.

The arm is gonna be a bit harder. You want to cut out some shapes from the foam core and then glue it with some superglue or hot glue. I'd start off with cutting two rectangles about as wide as your forearm and about 10 -12 inches longer . the remainder I would cut into long right triangles that are as long as the long piece. This should help make a box to fit your arm in, continue to cut and glue additional pieces to make your hooks. Paint the same color as your putty dishes and you should be done. To help with the details- blend your silver paint into your clothing by matching a blue of the uniform into the splashes and arm the transition into the silver.

Check your local LANs at http://lanpartylist.com/ or as another commenter posted, google "LAN Party" + your state/region. I don't recommend searching by city since you might miss out on a sweet LAN only a few more miles down the road.

Generally speaking for most public LANs, assume that a chair and 3-4 feet of table space is provided for you, and nothing else. Cables are generally a cointoss, so always assume you'll need your own. You should bring the following at minimum.

• Computer
  
• Monitor
  
• VGA / DVI / HDMI / DisplayPort cable
  
• Headset with functional microphone
  
• Mouse
  
• Keyboard
  
• An X360 controller, just in case a racing game is played.
  
• 15' ethernet cable
  
• Power cables
  
• All Windows Updates installed. No one likes viruses.
  
• Your computer should have a screensaver password, a BIOS password, and preferably some sort of locking mechanism depending on the venue.
  
• Shareable chips, soda or water, assuming they run a community chest.
  
• CASH for a community pizza run. Assume $7-10 per head.
  
• Consider a folding hand truck and some bungee cords to carry your PC + monitor in. They're the preferred transport of Quakecon! :)
  
  The LAN host will generally post a list of "the community's favorite games" or possibly even a schedule with specific games. Install all of these in advance and make sure they're fully patched the night before game day, since bandwidth may be limited or non-existent even. Put Steam into offline mode until you know it's safe to go online.
  
  
  
  Do NOT bring:
  
  
• An Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS). They draw too much power and can trip a circuit mid-game. Don't be that guy.
  
• A space heater, microwave, lava lamp, or other power-sucking device that isn't your computer.
  
• Speakers. Believe me from my days in LANmaniac that this will eventually lead to a loudness war. Small USB speakers are sometimes okay (check the host's rules) for downtime in-between games if you're showing videos to friends, but they should never be used while gaming.
  
• A chair, without the express prior consent of the host.
  
• A monitor or TV greater than 3' in horizontal width, unless again you have permission from the host.
  
• A cooler full of ice, since spills do happen and they're not fun around electricity. Use the cold packs instead.
  
• An ethernet switch, hub or router. Hosts don't like troubleshooting network issues they didn't introduce themselves.
  
• Any NAS devices. An external hard drive is usually tolerable, but a mini computer with its own ethernet port rarely is.
  
• An attitude.
  
• Loneliness. You're there to play games with others, not play WoW solo or check Facebook.
  
  
  Have fun!
  
  

wow. holy crap! clearly you have done this before on these cars.

• so basically, you recommend putting an inline filter between the hard line and the carb, correct?
  
  
• as far as the magnets, could i just put them on the underside of the tank? i could just line THESE MAGNETS up across the rear of the tank and that would be good right?
  
  
• would you be able to tell me since i have the HEI on it, So on my timing since I have the hei in, should I be on stock timing and plugs, and plug gap? Or should I be on the spec for the 75 or 76? http://www.angelfire.com/extreme3/drchop/docscads.html - I would think same stock timing, but with the plugs and gap for the stronger spark right?
  

Hello there, I recently started growing and purchased all new items. The fan you chose simply won't work. You will be very disappointed in the performance. I was going to use that fan as an inflow booster with a pre-filter. I quickly returned it because it just did not move enough air. The fan could not create positive pressure in the tent. I then tried this fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7S46YZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495901534&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=4+inch+inline+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=41G0I96VBVL&ref=plSrch

I ended up returning that one as well because it was advertised as 200cfm and it was not moving anywhere near the same air amount as the first fan I bought. I then broke down and bought the same fan I originally purchased as my outflow fan and filter. I bought just the fan for 56.00 as an inflow fan and put a pre-filter on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7M6692/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495901249&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=4+inch+inline+fan+carbon+filter+combo&dpPl=1&dpID=51REkA1uNbL&ref=plSrch

OP delivers!

We had originally considered purchasing a vehicle lift, but they were much more expensive, required a lot of headroom (the garage ceiling is only about 8'4" high), and would have required us to change the garage door tracks and opener to let it clear. This was a much simpler (and cooler) solution.

Many parts were purchase from Amazon, so I provided links so you can take a look.

Parts:

• Winch
  
  
• Pulley
  
  
• Carabiners
  
  
• Snatch blocks
  
  
• Rope hoist
  
  
• Hydraulic Vehicle Moving Dollies
  
  
• 3/16 (840LB capacity) steel cable
  
  
• Cable clamps
  
  
• Cable 'eyes' (keeps the cable in a nice curve when going around the carabiners)
  
  
• Lag bolts
  
  ==================
  Details:
  
  I had access to the studs and rafters as we removed the drywall to remodel the garage, so I was able to use 2x4s and 2x12s to strengthen the areas where the eye hooks were secured.
  
  I built these pivoting support blocks to keep the axle from taking any of the load. I put carpet on the blocks to keep them from scraping the new garage floor.
  
  I use these dollies to position the trailer to be hooked up to the pivot blocks.
  
  I use the rope hoist to make the raising and lowering of the trailer a one person operation. You need to pull the trailer away from the wall to get it to start lowering and also need to steady it on its way up so it doesn't fall into position too quickly.
  

I actually made it. Cost me somewhere around $75 if I remember correctly. Buy all the materials listed below for the size/quantity you want, and then I custom printed and cut clear labels for the top and sides of the jar. The magnets are glued to the inside of the jar lids. If you get them strong enough they will never slide or slip. The ones I list can get about a half inch from the stainless base before they won't go back.

Stainless Steel Backplate - You can order in a lot of places - but make sure you have the correct steel makeup. Not all stainless is magnetic!

Superglue - Any standard superglue should work.

Magnets - It would seem that they don't sell these magnets anymore, but it should be easy to find something similar.

4oz Glass Hex Jars w/ Lids - This was the most reliable source at the time.

I like magnets and metal tools. Things just stay in place. Like this
something like this. good for keeping something in place. Just something to think when making things that hold tools. They are pretty cheap and do well in a ton of situations. one of those discs holds at least 10lb hammer they have smaller and thinner ones that work well for smaller stuff. Take a look

People here laugh at us, but we have all our kitchen cabinets secured with latches and our bookshelves and washer/dryer secured with earthquake straps like these: https://www.amazon.com/Quakehold-4162-15-Inch-Furniture-Antique/dp/B000FJP24U

It probably won't help during The Big One™, but for any minor quakes (have lived through three already in the City), they can help prevent damage.

I highly recommend these. They are not the most discreet but they are easy and strong. One strap is plenty for most furniture.

They do a micro s-biner that has a locking mechanism which would be the perfect size for your SAK and light. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BKVPU08?pc_redir=1412271356&robot_redir=1

I use one and the lock is great. Works very well.

I love S binders and have found a few uses of them for my puppy. I use a micro one for all his tags so I can easily switch them between collars, plus it is locking! A larger one is used as a backup for his harness. It also works great to keep his light up collar in place.

I have a Chevy Cruze and an 11 foot kayak, what I do is first unscrew the antenna at the center of the roof. Most cars this can just screw and unscrew no problem.

I have 2 foam blocks like this Centering it as best I can. I try to put them right before the windshield and rear window, the area with the most support. When I load my kayak there is a small part that actually touches the roof so I just put an old towel under it to prevent scratching. The towel is pinned by the kayak and not going anywhere.

Next I put these things under the trunk and hood so I can use a rope to tie down the front and back. I have tried running this system without tying down the front and back and I would not feel comfortable driving more than a couple miles going <30 MPH.

Now I use straps like this and open all my doors and loop it over the kayak and through my car. Again trying to stay close to the front for more strength.

Then I just tighten the front and back ropes to make sure its not going to move left to right, and double check the straps across the kayak.

It seems like a lot but the whole process of loading and tying down takes maybe 10 minutes and that's alone. Quick drive around the block to make sure its good and I'm okay with driving for a couple hours before I want to check it.

This system has worked well for me and the only damage to my car has been the straps will move around a little near the door and leave marks but those are easily buffed out.

these. They worked great for this application and they are priced pretty well.

https://3ds.hacks.guide/installing-boot9strap-(ntrboot)
According to the guide I need a magnet to trigger sleep mode, but I'm concerned about my magnet being too strong or too weak.
Here are a few I'm considering
https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527330981&sr=8-4&keywords=magnet
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527331185&sr=1-2&keywords=magnetizer
https://www.amazon.com/XLMAGNET-Countersunk-Mounting-Building-Scientific/dp/B077GNVYZR/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527331163&sr=1-9&keywords=fridge+magnet
I'm largely looking for one under 15$, and one that won't break my 3ds, or rather my New 2DS.
If anyone has any general tips or a range of magnet strength, please provide those too.

I'm looking at these which are a nice size, bigger than a quarter. They seem pretty powerful, so I'm thinking I may not need to drill into the bottom and there might be other ways of disguising the tiles.

I may also scrap the tile-search part and just have the puzzle be more focused on finding the board + planchette and then decoding the message.

I just uploaded it to http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:738368. Didn't realize anyone else would want to print these!

This is the cart I'm using - WEN 73002. I replaced the wheels with soft pads to stabilize the cart but still allow it to be moved around on hardwood floors. Slapped one of these magnetic tool holder racks on the side and threw a couple of those bins on the front and I've been very happy with this cart. I still need to add some shelves underneath for my overflowing pile of filament, scraps, etc and I'll be all set.

I modeled and analyzed this hand truck.

You could select one part... The plastic wheel, for example. Lots of interesting geometry you could use to be both visually appealing, minimal material, strength and manufacturable. Most of that might be beyond the scope of the class though. Only two points of loading too (well, I guess there are scenarios where you'd have more).

Try magnetic wall sheets...one sec, let me find a link

Wall26 24"x 60" (2 by 5 feet) .30mil Super Strong Flexible Magnet Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GQ048EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OQQ-BbXWGZVQ0

I don't smell my plants with my 4x4 closed. So the same thing should apply for you. Since you are venting outside you should be fine. It may be an light odor in the room. But it shouldn;t smell up the whole room until you open the tent.

This is the best on teh market. https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-S6-Controller/dp/B07FPFVZTZ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=ac+infinity&qid=1554815892&s=gateway&sr=8-6 There one with a humidity control as well. If not https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Variable-Controller-Ventilation/dp/B01DXYMJ94/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vivosun+6+inch+fan&qid=1554816051&s=gateway&sr=8-3 Will be more then enough to vent the tent out the windodw.

https://www.amazon.com/Humidity-Controller-Inkbird-Humidistat-Pre-wired/dp/B01J1E5LWM/

and this

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ

will clear your humidity out in a minute or two. get a cheaper humidistat if you want, just needs to turn on and off at a set point, but the inkbird is a good value.

Asked for advice regarding a car cover here a while back for my P7B (with spotlight). I was having trouble finding a car cover that was advertised to be long enough to fit my vic. Ended up going with this OxGord 2XL car cover for $75. It's big enough for the vic and the quality is also excellent for a sub $100 car cover. Only been using it for a little under a month, no issues yet. The cover only has 3 tie down points, two on the side and one in the front, so I had to add some extra straps, I will also link to those if anyone is interested.

OxGord 2XL car cover: https://www.oxgord.com/exterior-accessories/vehicle-covers/executive-car-cover-2xl.html

Straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017902W8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now to address the "why are you wasting your time covering up a CV. Well I bought this and got it painted at Maaco. A few weeks later I was given a 2007 4Runner from my grandparents and am driving that instead of the CV (Still love the CV). I am saving the CV for my sister who can drive in two years, so to keeps this cheap maaco paint job in tact I am covering it up for her until then.

This the the cart that I have, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4KeAzb0ZDKPEF
I use a bungee cord to keep my table from tipping. It's not specifically for massage tables, but I like that I can use it as a dolly or hand cart when I need to for other things.

Ah, thank you. I thought he meant the pusher.

I found what I assume are the dollies on Amazon for $80 a pop. I think US$300+ is a good value for something you can use on a daily basis here in Michigan.

Magnet tape. I was inspired to start collecting after seeing another reddit user do this. It's an awesome way to display them.
https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Flexible-Magnetic-1-Inch-10-Foot/dp/B01HR3J3CI/ref=zg_bs_1265131011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F83PZ81PXYJYRYWETFVR

well i first wanna thank TheMagistrate he made this post about this a month ago. https://www.reddit.com/r/Steelbooks/comments/9qjdb0/about_13rd_of_my_collection_running_out_of_wall/

ive been using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQ048EQ/

using this i have been cutting it in 5 x 4.75 squares and you can get 55 out of each roll that way. i also feel like you could get away with making them smaller. I however personally feel that they are going to be more secure the way i did it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YVJ1XW/ and i use about 5 of these to mount them on the wall.

Ditch the stroller and get something like this that you can strap the car seat to: Brica Roll 'n Go Car Seat Transporter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074JKQ0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i2CiDbM7MEPRB
Then you can gate check them all. We actually used a Magna hand cart and bungee cords last time we flew https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_15CiDb9G4KKB5

Car seats that are FAA-approved should fit in the plane seats.

We do low voltage work and use this one all the time for all kinds of projects. We load it easily in a fairly compact Ford Transit Connect. They make a slightly larger one too, we needed one to move through doors easily. Pretty sure I have seen the same cart listed under different brands (Northern Tool maybe). As long as it's not rolling on carpet or it will absolutely carry +450lbs.

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-73002-500-Pound-Capacity-Service/dp/B00H1V4EB2

Just get one of these. They are VERY strong, and compact. We have two at the office, and I liked them so much I bought one for the house.

I use the locking S-binder

The lock is great and it's easy to move from his walking collar to his harness as needed.

Maybe instead of getting a new amp grab yourself a collapsible hand truck? They cut out a lot of the lugging. I'm a pretty big fan of having one around.

I don't have that but I do have this Personal Dolly.

I live in an apartment and walking from the apartment to office to pick up my packages is way easier with this when I know I'm getting some heavy package or big box.

I also lend it to new neighbors moving in. They always appreciate saving their backs and make the job take half the time.

It's not the sexiest but I use this Nite Ize clip and it works pretty well, and they have different sizes in case you carry more than a couple keys.

Any craft store (Michael's, JoAnn, the dreaded Hobby Lobby, and probably even Lowe's or Home Depot for some things) will do as well as Amazon if you can wait a few days for shipping.

I've not made keyrings yet but for magnets you'll probably want some kind of magnetic tape like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Magnum-Magnetics-Corp-Adhesive-Magnetic/dp/B00114LU8K/ref=pd_sbs_indust_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0F9T34N0C12XGK1T5QZ6

Or a magnetic sheet like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnet-Adhesive-Length-rolled/dp/B005HY990G/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1404232861&sr=1-1&keywords=magnet+sheet

The adhesives on those are usually kinda crappy so I'd suggest maybe pulling the tape off and adding your own adhesive of choice.

Also the flexible magnets tend not to be super strong so you might need to use a bit more than you would think.

Would they be better than these? I am usually wary about buying things that don't have reviews on Amazon. Is a ratchet strap better than the latching strap? Cost isn't really a concern as I plan to use these for future projects.

I made a pair for myself. It is fairly easy if you look at what a TRX system consists of. Really, all you need is:

1. Short piece of PVC pipe
   
   
2. I would say about 10' of 1" webbing Which can be found at REI or Sport Chalet depending on you local.
   
   
3. And some adjustable straps which can be found just about anywhere that sells tie downs.
   
   The tough part here is the handles. I cut the pvc in 6" segments, used a heat gun to soften the edges and then used a wine bottle to flair out the softened edges so they would not wear on the their straps. Unfortunately I do not have pictures to help explain this (hope it makes sense, let me know if you need more of an explanation). Beyond that it is just tying it up correctly. Here is a simplistic way of doing it. Don't buy a TRX system! It is so easy to replicate. Rings have their advantages for gymnastic exercises, but TRX systems allow for creative core and upper body exercises.

A charcoal filter works for indoor use. I printed this adapter on my ender 3:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2877754

And I ran it through a filter with these things:

• VIVOSUN 4 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting for HVAC Ventilation w/Two 4 Inch Stainless Steel Clamps
  
  
• VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower
  
  
• VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter
  
  It works great for me, and I'm very sensitive to the resin fumes.

$33 for the load strap when you can just get these for $6.50

but i do love my organic chalk bucket.

If you are only using butane torches and a pickle pot, you may be able to get away without one, but it is healthier if you use ventilation. You are going to inevitably burn oils and other contaminants and that should not be going into your lungs.

A 200 CFM, 4" duct fan can be used with a dryer hose and a 'vent periscope' box to make a permanent in-window vent system. Add some duct insulation and it won't bleed heat. The basic setup is about $60.


https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S/

My periscope box installed: https://imgur.com/MIJTJDY

My vent setup: https://imgur.com/tNHUJ8X

I'm using Acetylene, and that gives off soot, so I *need* a vent system. I will probably add a stove hood from the remodelling surplus store just for better smoke collection.

Look into "self-leveling compound" to fix an uneven concrete floor.

I would assume you dont want to make the floor 100% flat, since there is a drain there. If you can level out any bumps & ripples, ceramic tile would be fine for a floor with a gentle downslope. Tile is used in the floor of showers all the time

Example of a [condensate pump](Little Giant 554425 VCMA-20ULS Condensate Removal 1/30 HP Pump with Safety Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v.2IBbME5NADG). I don't know where you're located or local plumbing codes there. But you could look into it draining into a sump pump pit? Or doing a little bit of plumbing work so it can drain into a sewer line? We know sewer line must be accessible in basement because the washer drain goes somewhere.

Alas. I guess I like the idea of a drum truck or hand cart. I got one of these and it's very useful. http://www.amazon.com/Magna-Personal-Capacity-Aluminum-Folding/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=lp_553520_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1422146592&sr=1-1

I've used these in one application for a friend as I had them on hand from a different project


https://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Strongest-Powerful-Magnets-Applied/dp/B01MSTKTSF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=super+magnets&qid=1554478654&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

One option is furniture securing straps. If you live somewhere prone to earthquakes, you've probably seen them before.

The same people also make special putty for securing stuff to shelves. That was very helpful for childproofing at my house.

I can step in and answer a few on from my own tent.
https://i.imgur.com/ynoNuJZ.jpg

2. I personally dont use an intake fan, just leave the mesh openings and Duct openings on the bottom open.

3. refer to Autonomous incoming reply.

4. I'm using an APC 7900 switched PDU i got off ebay for $85

5. I'm using this fan ( https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Variable-Controller-Ventilation/dp/B01DXYMJ94/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518212723&sr=8-4&keywords=vivosun+6%22 ) Plus side is this fan is indeed quiet and runs at 60watts for me.

6. I've got a blower style fan circulating the air inside i had this fan before the tent so i just used it ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1LYHTE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) .
Still considering getting another Vivosun 6" as intake with a carbon filter just to eliminate dust on cards and making maintenance easier

7. Tent i use 48 x 24 x 84 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WMBQZ90/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Fits this shelf with Rigs mounted with a ton of room( https://www.amazon.com/Tier-Heavy-Non-Corrosive-Metal-Shelving/dp/B076GXK3ST/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518213252&sr=1-2&keywords=Hyper-Tough-5-Tier-Wire-Shelving)

8. $199.51 total including 25feet 6" duct, hangers and an 6" round to 6"oval to be mounted through the window. (Not including Shelving the rig is mounted to inside)

Not complex at all. When I used this system I'd put a couple of these:
https://www.campmor.com/c/seattle-sports-14-inch-deluxe-kayak-replacement-blocks-pair-58613
on the boat - one in front and one in back - and bungie them to the boat. Then put the whole thing on the roof, and use two camstraps - https://www.amazon.com/CARTMAN-Lashing-Straps-600lbs-Carry/dp/B017902W8G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525876929&sr=8-3&keywords=cam+straps&dpID=51vBDO3xI0L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch - to secure it to the roof. Note that without having side rails on your roof you'll have to open the doors and run the camstraps through the inside of the vehicle and back out the opposite door. If you want to feel REALLY secure, put a bow line from the front of the boat to somewhere on the underside of the front of the car, like the bottom of the bumper bracket.
If you're having trouble getting the boat on the roof, try putting a big towel on the roof hanging over the back of the car. Lean the kayak up against the towel, and use it to protect your car as you push it up onto the roof. Then stow the towel and get the camstraps attached.

My wife and I hauled two 14 foot kayaks from Ohio to Boundary Waters Canoe Area in Minnesota with no problems using this method.

Good luck.

I bought this collapsing handtruck from Amazon. It's excellent, and a mere US$35, with free shipping. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HVVSDU/ref=oss_product

I bring this up because this design focuses on hinging the foot and uses extendable frame rods to get portability. It's a vertically-collapsing design, whereas yours seems to be collapsing horizontally.

Collapsible hand truck. Magna Cart Personal 150 lb Capacity Aluminum Folding Hand Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ELSjxb8VFWX8H

folding dolly's work just as well

edit I've seen these at Costo for pretty cheap and work well at triggering the sensor

It's super easy!

Just take two of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YVJ1XW/

Cut a 3"x3" square out of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQ048EQ/

Stick the adhesive strips to the magnetic square, then to the wall!

​

Measuring out spacing on the wall was the hardest part. I'm able to mount almost 100 steelbooks for about $35.

I use a cheap paracord one from Amazon with a small locking s-shaped carabiner (also from Amazon). It's 10x as secure as a generic lanyard, as good as the fancy ones like Peak Design (if not as easy to change out) but cost me like $10 total.

$6 landyard

Small 2-pack of S-biners

If you're using a compact camera you don't need the strongest stuff out there too, so keep that in mind

If you want a more elegant solution, and have a steel case, use this: https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Flexible-Strong-Magnetic-10-Foot/dp/B01HR3J3CI/

You can also order dynamags separately from dynavap or find a similar magnet (here are several on amazon with stickers on one side for about $10 https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M ) and there are also other sizes/shapes available of that type of magnet on amazon.I also saw someone else mentioning that you can get several for 2 or 3 bucks from Harbor Freight if you have that store nearby. Grab some magnets and improvise something. :)

​

[Edit -- the key for any magnet is "diametrically magnetized" and I admit I didn't verify that terminology when I mentioned the magnets above, except for the dynamag itself. But amazon has them for certain.]

Like /u/stargazertony, I've got a heavy instrument with a hard case (30-some pounds altogether). I tried carrying it around for a little while once and nearly dropped it after about 30 minutes. My solution was to get one of these, though; I can put the case on there and roll it around quite easily.

I like the #3 and 4 niteize locking s biners. Very useful for keys, small tools, flashlights and come in handy around the campsite. They have 2 locking types. Buy these not this locking type.

not quite a granny cart, but i got this one recently and it's been fantastic for hauling stuff around

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS

If I was in your position I would get myself a rolling tool cart. It would make transporting all your tools and equipment easy and gives you a place to keep all of that organized. Since you live in an apartment, I assume space is somewhat of a concern. Here's a neat folding cart on Amazon that would probably suffice.

You could do a space bucket style build if you are lacking space and dont mind some DIY.

But if you want a tent style this is kind of like mine
Tent just used this size as it is standard some companies will make smaller ones.

Lights good for a 2x2 tent

Inline fan exhaust

Booster fan good for air in

Filter wont need this until flower

I bought this ikea cabinet My plan is to cut a hole in the top with a 4in hole saw and put in a duct fan like this and run the duct out the window. The only problem is getting the printer out of the cabinet when the print is done but I figure it's easy enough to build a sliding platform for that.

This is exactly what I bought. If you happen to be near Burbank I have a ton of extra I would like to give away. Edit: I adhered the Carpool stickers and the backing paper to the sticky side of the magnet sheet. This way, if I have to I can unstick the carpool sticker and place them on the car though I really hope it doesn’t come to that.

If these were cheaper I'd keep a pair in my trunk for just such occasions.
Jack up the front wheels, swing the double-parker out perpendicular, and leave it that way. Cops will definitely take care of it then, and you are long gone.

Personal experience here -- the iPower 4 inch filter / inline fan combo didn't work very well at all for me. My entire garage smelled like herb.


What I have now, although was a bit more pricey:


Phresh 701005 Carbon Air Filter, 6 by 16-Inch, 400 CFM


Vortex 347 CFM S Line S-600 Fan, 6"


iPower 6 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting Dryer Vent Hose for HVAC Ventilation, 2 Clamps included


CARTMAN 1" x 12' Lashing Straps up to 600lbs, 6pk in Carry Bag


 


Here's how it looks:


Grow Tent

How did you turn them into magnets? I have some characters I wanted to turn into magnets, and bought a thin sheet of magnet. I was going to leave them square but this is much better, how did you do it!?

Nutes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006XTQGLO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Few packages of these to hang lights and filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010DD743O?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Extension cords
Plenty of options

Lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B4GQ6MO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Fabric pots:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TF9E6XE?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Air control
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1R0K68?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Outlet timer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XC7GTCN/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tent https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01731MNJE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Carbon filter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4 inch duct
Can find anywhere

Jewelers loop (super important)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K0BGNNC?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

To dry your buds
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GXHQIKO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Surge protectors and ext cords
Find anywhere

Inline fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7S46YZ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Soil probe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017GQ9VVY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A few other things I got locally from grow shops. Quality seeds are important. Greenpointseeds.com is always having bomb sales, ship from Colorado, and are top quality. Soil from local grow shops but can also buy from online. I went cheaper on light, but I wouldn't do that again. Get good quality lights.

If you stick some neodymium magnets to your bike (I put 2 on my left pedal) you'll be able to trigger the sensor! :)

Also has the advantage of allowing you to trigger a green light on the road where there are the embedded wires.

I use these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084UASJQ/

Edit: Or maybe not... http://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/2hirgt/do_any_of_you_regularly_take_your_bike_places/ckt4py0

Do you have power in your crawlspace? A light or something? Or possibly there's an outlet on the outside of your house? I had these guys http://www.eastcoastcrawlspace.com install the vapor barrier on the ground and up the piers and walls for $1200. I also bought this dehumidifier - https://www.amazon.com/Keystone-KSTAD50B-Portable-Dehumidifier-6-4-Pint/dp/B00IJYH02U that has continuous drain capabilities and this condensate pump - https://www.amazon.com/Little-554425-VCMA-20ULS-Condensate-Removal/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537466371&sr=8-3&keywords=little+giant+condensate+pump
I had an outside outlet circuit that was easily accessible from inside my crawlspace, so I just wired another outlet onto that circuit and mounted on the wall inside my crawlspace. I bought some hose from Home Depot to allow for continuous drain from the dehumidifier to the condensate pump and also some hose for the condensate pump and drilled a hole on the crawlspace doorframe to send the condensate drain hose outside. Once I had it all set up, it's just set it and let it do it's thing. I keep the humidity at 35 down there and never have a problem. You don't need a sump pump if you don't have standing water in your crawlspace.

re: beach cart

I have one of these, collapses super small and could fit two 5 gallon bags I would guess. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HVVSDU

This is the best...
https://www.amazon.com/Cosco-Shifter-300-Pound-Capacity-Multi-Position/dp/B00LMH8CCS

Keep a few bungee cords and nets handy and you're set. Best of all it folds so well it won't take space in your car.

VIVOSUN 6 Inch 390 CFM Inline Duct Fan with Variable Speed Controller for Ventilation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMJ94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SQvXAb5Y6SVDZ

Yea my thermometer is facing direct light on soil level.

I’ll crank it up and see hat happens.

Thanks

How many of your side vents are open? Do you have any fans inside your tent moving air around? I have a 4 in PVC pipe that is inserted into one of the 4 inch opening in my 3x3, to allow unrestricted air into my tent.

For 25 dollars, you could buy one of these, and have it pull fresh air in.

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-aW50YWtlIGZhbg%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=intake+fan&pd_rd_i=B01M7S46YZ&pd_rd_r=5d336609-c5ad-445b-a21f-c89c781d81f7&pd_rd_w=BhXBo&pd_rd_wg=CXN0U&pf_rd_p=2938a786-9bec-4d37-8c06-456e3edce5d1&pf_rd_r=V4C0YMY222M5QAW6T1EB&psc=1&qid=1570843257

this would be great for me

and a big HUG for you

I have a duct fan blowing into a carbon filter. It does a great job keeping the smell down.

I used this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7S46YZ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Along with a 3d printed duct for the back at the machine, with the blower positioned at the end of the hose. Works great.

It’s this tent vented with this fan with a carbon filter attached. They’re both pretty cheap but seem to be working fine so far.

I guess it also depends on how robust you want it, or if you want a warranty (I bet lots of the price on those things is just warranty protection).

You could buy a dolly off Amazon for $50, strap a $100 bag to it, and call it a day: https://www.amazon.com/Cosco-Shifter-Multi-Position-Heavy-Folding/dp/B00LMH8CCS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492626619&sr=8-3&keywords=dolly

I think you’re “done” with this bud. Many a threads are on here with “what to do” ideas.

Look to set this up ASAP and next run to get humidity in the 45%.

Vent: VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower for Grow Tent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rlPRDbJH6MVKB

Humidity monitor/controller: Inkbird Humidity Controller IHC200 Humidistat Mushroom Greenhouse Pre Wired Outlet Dual Stage Humidifier Dehumidifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1E5LWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4mPRDbN62PRW4

Set the controller to 45%, plug the fan into it, and she’ll watch the tent 24/7

This is the setup I have....was all pretty simple:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UWP07LK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Giant-VCMA-20ULS-Condensate-Removal/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469043771&sr=8-1&keywords=condensate+pump

• Keychain
  
  • Nite Ize S-Biner
    
  • Leatherman Brewser
    
  • Olight i3E EOS Flashlight
    
  • Bellroy Key Cover Plus (Blue Steel)
    
• Bellroy Slim Sleeve Wallet (Blue Steel)
  
• Field Notes "Wednesday"
  
• Apple Watch Series 2 with Nomad Classic Leather Watch Strap (Midnight Navy)
  
• Persol Sunglasses
  
• Retro 51 Tornado Rollerball (Ice Blue)
  
• iPhone 7
  
  • Nomad Clear Case

Somebody may be pranking you with rolling dollys/jacks like these. We had some of these in our auto program and would sometimes move students cars from the shop to the shop car storage area and then sit back and watch as they try and figure out how their locked car got moved. Fun times.

Sorry it should be inline fan

Here is one

VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower for Grow Tent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1vfrDb7H5Y14V

It’s possible because there is no airflow, also it will cool your tent down. I bought 2 fans and some 4” ducting from amazon and probably paid about $50.

Here is a link if you would like to check them out.

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=grow+tent+fan&qid=1569681479&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Sorry don't feel sorry for u. Look at my past drives maybe then I'll think ur remotely my equal. Also like people on this forum taught me get a cart. 40 bucks ant worth a pulled back or worse. Cosco Shifter 300-Pound Capacity... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Cosco Shifter 300-Pound Capacity Multi-Position Heavy Duty Folding Hand Truck and Dolly, Green

I already had them, but it was two of something like this.

Or a friend with a couple of these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_cSEDAbMKHW37A

I bought this, it's a two in one, both a cart and a hand trolley.

I've got a tip for you on the NCG thing. My BiL and I prefer to go to the Marietta one due to cost and how close it is. We both have bigger upper bodies and so end up laying down because of those seats.

After a few experiments, we ended up getting these. We get there early enough and then just wrap them around the base of the armrests, behind the seat. Then we just tighten them to how far back we want the seat to go. It's made going there 10x better.

I use furniture straps available at any hardware store on my 60 gallon tank. They use a very strong adhesive which sticks to the aquarium, and is detachable by velcro. The other sides screw into the wall studs.

Something similar to these ones

https://www.amazon.com/wholesalers-Hydroponic-Scrubber-Ledwholesalers-GYO2305/dp/B005HT0GZ8


https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=asc_df_B01M7S46YZ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198099432697&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11339173752191949168&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027632&hvtargid=pla-350510992464&psc=1

Get this (or something similar, might be cheaper other places) and run it next to your space bucket. For one plant in a bucket this should be more then enough to keep smell out. Just set this up next to your bucket. Pull air through the filter and push it out the top of fan.

/u/ggrumpypie - you can get a [Glide Gear SYL 960 dual wheel tripod dolly for 174,74€] (https://www.amazon.de/SYL-960-Camera-Hybrid-Tripod/dp/B006O130X8//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerev02-21) plus [11m of flex track for 28€ (current eBay bid price)] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/707-53477-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=252825373649&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229487&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) for a total of 202,74€, shipping to Romania included.

If you don't win the auction for the track, you can get [11m of ProAim Flexi Track shipped from the UK to Romania for about 285,58€] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/707-53477-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=281866156715&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229487&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) [Referral Links].

Hope that's closer to your budget!

could possibly buy the wheel dolleys that are hydraulic? Something like these

Could do it on the side away from the wall leaving other side on dolleys?

> wheel dollies

Made me think of these; might make things easier by eliminating the jacking up and then throwing the wheel dollies underneath it part of it.

Little Giant 554425 VCMA-20ULS Condensate Removal 1/30 HP Pump with Safety Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_oKDtDbKHE70PY


This is the one I have.... It pumps strait to my laundry basin

Based on my setup, you need;

Decent thermometer

Auto Siphon & tubing

hydrometer

wine/beer thief

carboy or bucket for fermenting + rubber stopper & blowoff tube

bottling bucket w/ spigot

bottling wand

bottle capper + bottles & caps

I recommend 10 gallon kettle, I regret getting only 8 gal.

mesh brew bag sized to fit your kettle. Useful for both BIAB and batch sparge brewing.

Optional but very useful;

10 gallon mash tun (square or round cooler + steel braid/false bottom + brass valve) I regret only getting a 5 gallon. Easy home depot built.

DIY stirplate using adjustable computer fan + magnets + stir bar and a flask (I pull it off with a 1 gallon glass jug)

vinator

Fermentation chamber with temp controller!

In a pinch I used a large hard laundry basket from target to carry a bunch of stands, tripods, skrims, and crap. I have this hardware cart to carry my drum/cymbal stands so I would personally use that for future shoots with lots of hardware since it's available to me already. There's probably a similar cart of some kind: direct from a camera manufacturer might be expensive so get creative with a hand cart like this (I also have that cart to carry around a set of 80-100lb scuba cylinders and it's a beast).

I used to use similar baskets on the rear rack of my commuting bike. I ignored the metal clips completely during installation and instead used some straps like these because I already had them laying around. I also added a small bungie cord near the bottom to prevent any movement down there. It held the basket on securely. Another option would be to use heavy duty zipties.

Couldn't find a nice iPad kneeboard and was thinking of DIY. Would a magnetic mount on a kneeboard disturb the magnetic compass? (i.e. with magnets like those: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD2X45M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, 3 on the kneeboard, 3 on an ipad case, and you got yourself a nice magnetic holder).

Meh, I bought some polyester tie down straps with aluminum buckles for about six bucks and I use a marlin spike knot to attach my carabiner. Simple, cheap, lightweight. Easy up and down. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PL4H0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YPCvxbAB283Y2

Get a lugguage strap, strap it tight and wrap the slack with electrical tape where it overlaps (more than one location to keep it from moving too much and rips it off by itself, sign your name on the tape with silver sharpie.

Edit: Here is one I recommend, as I realized a lot of these straps have clip locks

I like to imagine turning their car into a shopping cart:
https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Vehicle-Automotive-Moving-Dolly/dp/B000H3TSIU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mush3hNbnmY

try something like this

Looks like a mall Locking NiteIze S-Biner.

It looks like this WEN-branded one.

Personally, I've got my eye on this Suncast one with the trays.

Find something like this and it will make your life so much easier

Of course man, also here is a list of the other parts I bought.

MyLifeUNIT 3 Way Duct Connector, Duct Splitter for Exhaust Fan Dryer Vent Hose, 4 Inch Dia. (Y Shape) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2YKGWB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0IHuDb9WEW7WN

VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower for Grow Tent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LKHuDb1CNH3RQ

iPower GLDUCT4X25C 4 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Dryer Vent Hose HVAC Ducting, 4", Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMHCTWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xLHuDbGHERVSB

It's an infinity table with some wood and a bottle opener on it.

On the back of the wood you can take a forstner bit the size of a rare earth magnet and drill a hole the size of the magnet.

Use two part epoxy to secure the magnet in place and there ya go.

Get a condensate pump and tie it into your dehumidifier. A condensate pump should be able to pump at least 25' vertically post discharge. Run that drain line either outside through the rim joist (with a final discharge at least 10 feet from the foundation) or run the discharge tubing up to your laundry tub/washer discharge drain.

Most humidifiers these days allow for a continuous drain so it shouldn't be too difficult to attach the condensate pump to it.

Edit: condensate pump

> 6" Vivosun fan at 390 cfm

Are you using this fan: https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Variable-Controller-Ventilation/dp/B01DXYMJ94

It says "Max Ambient Temp is 113℉ / 45℃" I assume your tent is always above that temp. Do you have any issues?

I really dislike the velcro straps and they'll wear out pretty quick.


Here's a link to the straps shown in the photos. There's enough here to go over 3 times: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NH4POY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Heres the straps that I'll be using to replace under the cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL4H0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

yep, that's what these little pumps do:

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Giant-VCMA-20ULS-Condensate-Removal/dp/B000SM342Q

I can move it myself and I am in no way in the running for a strong man competition. While a tad heavy, it's more awkward getting it through doors and around corners.

Parts List:

Yoga balls:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LQ4PXFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

pillow bearings:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IWGLAM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


3/4 inch steek rod:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069AB2NO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rail Clamping Guides:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07426SVYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Straps to anchor the trainer: (Way to long) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL4H0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well if you do, I have found that ratchet straps were very secure and even the friction type straps like these are more than enough for lumber. I've tried to make the load shift and could not. I was a little surprised by that and really only use the ratchet type for plywood. Especially since the 4' wide sheets leave no extra bar to wrap a strap around. I actually pop the caps off the bar ends and stick the hooks right into the ends.

Thank you. I do move around quite a bit, and slide off the mat. I bought these straps on amazon, and just strap the 2 mats together, but it's extra weight:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009V1WXY/ref=twister_B00LM09OTA

Here are the built-in straps I'm talking about, check out the last image picture on this page:

http://www.cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/sleeping-bags/three-season-sleeping-bags/antares-15-sleeping-bag/product

I believe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BKVPU08/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TZqcub1PK0NW9 are equivalent; I don't have their sizes committed to memory. I use this size as gear clips for lanyards, my keys are on a locking #2.

https://www.amazon.ca/LSBM-01-2R3-S-Biner-Micro-Black-2-Pack/dp/B00BKVPU08

These clips will also work as well. I got mine from Home Depot for 5$ or so.

This is the one I have (this is NOT an affiliate link either) you can get cheaper ones but I wanted to make sure it didn’t fail me when I needed it.

The instacrates you can get from Costco usually, I’ve never not seen them there. Also, they’re only $7.99 at Costco and double that from amazon.. Hope that’s what you were after..

This and sometimes an Ikea bag. I got my hand truck from Prime Now when they were on sale and used a coupon code. You should be able to get the same one for a lower price at Walmart, Home Depot, or Lowes. Many Flex drivers use the same one.

Cooling towel

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UR4HHC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4l56AbN9DNQ5B

The pith helmet if you can't get your hands on one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GT71IO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sn56Ab0DZ1BM6)

Badge holder

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TH4OLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lo56Ab6HF9XA7)

MOLLE Pouch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HZR2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Zp56Ab3VYFKPF)

Collapsing hand truck/cart

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH8CCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nr56AbNZ6RGQN)

I did this

http://www.overclock.net/t/1515948/official-thermaltake-core-v1-owners-club/20#post_22968787

Get a magnet sheet. You can find it stationery shops, it was €5 for 5 here, standard A4 format.

Cut it out (measure the are you want to cover ofc) and use some regular stockings/pantyhose as the filter. Tape it to the magnet sheet... and that's it.

Alternatively you can buy magnetic tape at DIY store. Like this one

https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Flexible-Magnetic-1-Inch-10-Foot/dp/B01HR3J3CI

It's like regular tape but the non-sticky side is magnet. You can make a square out from the tape and put the stockings on it and then cover it (the tape side) with some regular tape. Or with another layer of magnetic tape. Then you have magnet on both side tho it doesn't really matter imo.

And that is why I put mine on magnets.

Flexible Magnet Sheet With Adhesive, 0.030" Thick, 12" Wide, 24" Length (1 sheet rolled inside tube) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HY990G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Master Magnetics Magnet Sheet | Flexible Magnet Sheet with Adhesive, 12" Wide, 24" Long | 8504 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HY990G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X36YBbA44AEQX

Looks like some of THIS cut to length + some of THIS = What the guy in your picture is wearing.

Here’s the link on amazon.

Magna Cart Personal 150 lb... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HVVSDU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sorry, it’s $35 not $30. The handle folds down and the flat part you load stuff on folds up. I’ve put 3 cases of water on that thing with no problem. Best investment I’ve made for this job.

Do you have to carry all your swipe cards? Some places will take phone number instead. I only carry a front door key, car key, car remote, and mailbox key. I bought this and have my personal keys on one side and my work keys on the other side.

https://www.horticulturelightinggroup.ca/collections/all/products/hlg-100
But thats still a lot of money for 4 square feet of canopy.
You could throw a 600w HID kit into a 4x4 tent for a few hundred $$ and get a ton more bud

This https://www.amazon.ca/iPower-Digital-Dimmable-System-Reflector/dp/B008H15WFM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541266480&sr=8-3&keywords=600w+hid+grow+light

with this https://www.amazon.ca/Upgraded-Window-Hydroponic-Indoor-Growing/dp/B075CF47H6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541266513&sr=8-1&keywords=4x4+tent

and this https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541266589&sr=8-3&keywords=4+inch+inline+fan

to replace your tent, light and fan. Less than $150 more than you spent on those things, but grows 4x the cannabis at a time

I use these. They seem to work well, but I haven't lived through a major Earthquake so we'll see.

Need to get 4 of these. Never have to worry about someone taking your spot and you can put the other car in the craziest places as revenge

I have no knowledge of which of these are "the good stuff" but this will give you an idea of what i mean.

http://www.magnetking.com/?gclid=CjwKEAiA9s_BBRCL3ZKWsfblgS8SJACbST7DezASoRf5KVFSLxe_qBKx3dxZC7z5JYvchDqVxMUJgxoC7-zw_wcB#regularmagnet

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnet-Adhesive-Length-rolled/dp/B005HY990G

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnets-30mil-Strong-Material/dp/B016OR9SCS/

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnetic-Sheet-White-Length/dp/B005HY9KDM

Using a vivosun 195 https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ got mine on fleabay. It's ok, I don't know if its bearings or bushings, its quiet ish. Cheap as fuck, the casing has no seal so it leaks, I fixed by using metal duct tape on the joint. 195 cfm is the unrestricted flow from the outlet. So after resistance of the ducting its reduced. Also the resistance of the filter (has to push or pull through) it drops even more. I'm 2x3 x 6.5, on hot days I dont get the airflow so I had to put in a second extract. I expect colder weather will be perfect for it in my particular circumstances.

I wouldn't sleep while it's running. But the one you linked won't ship to me.
But i found a similarly powered exhaust fan.
This one
I've already found tubing and a filter to use.
As for noise I also have a FDM printer in my room that I run occasionally, so I'm sort of conditioned to it.

We used Quakehold brand. Heavier duty than other brands we checked out. Comes in white and black.

I suppose you could always get a couple of these and move them yourself.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Vehicle-Automotive-Moving-Dolly/dp/B000H3TSIU

here ya go

Or a set of these

I would buy a set of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Vehicle-Automotive-Moving-Dolly/dp/B000H3TSIU/ref=pd_sbs_auto_4) and move it every time he parks there.

Just pop one of these on the back tires and push it over.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Vehicle-Automotive-Moving-Dolly/dp/B000H3TSIU/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

I got a Magna cart for this thought:

http://www.amazon.com/Magna-Cart-Personal-Hand-Truck/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407268857&sr=8-2&keywords=magna+cart

https://www.amazon.com/Magna-Personal-Capacity-Aluminum-Folding/dp/B000HVVSDU

They come in handy. You can grab one at Costco!

I found these.

‪https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M3SP14/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdb_t1_x_cfyDDbQ33CAKZ‬

And this which doesn’t have a basket but you can bungee cord things to. ‪https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdb_t1_x_OdyDDbRYKJD4V ‬