(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best industrial & scientific
We found 29,159 Reddit comments discussing the best industrial & scientific. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 11,986 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
21. Lerway 110V All-Purpose STC-1000 Dual Stage Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat with Sensor
- Temperature calibration; Refrigerating control output delay protection
- Auto switch between refrigerating and heating?¼?Retrun difference value
- Control temperature by setting the temperature setting value and the difference value
- Alarm when temperature exceeds temperature limit or when sensor error.
- Note to check whether the sensor is connected well. Please be sure to connect the heating relay.
Features:
Specs:
Size | itc-1000 |
Weight | 0.45 Pounds |
22. Oakton EcoTestr pH 2 Waterproof pH Tester, 0.0 to 14.0 pH Range
Push-button calibration capabilities up to three points for a wide range of resultsAutomatic Temperature Compensation (ATC) for accurate readings in fluctuating temperaturesTransparent, protective cap keeps sensor moist when stored upright, and used as container for sensor conditioning or on-site ca...
23. Jonson Controls A19AAT-2C Freezer Temperature Controller (D132)
- Great for turning a chest freezer into a keg refrigerator
- Easy to set up and use
- Plug unit into wall and then run the sensor into your freezer
- Very economical
Features:
Specs:
Color | Grey |
Height | 3.5 Inches |
Length | 10.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1-(Pack) |
Width | 5.75 Inches |
24. iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection/Extreme Accuracy
Resolution: 0.0005"/0.01mm; Accuracy: 0.001" / 0.02mm; Range: 6"/150mmIP54 protection: Water drop and dust resistantUSB cable available separately.Meets DIN Standard 862; ISO certified manufacturing2 Years warranty
Specs:
Size | 0-6" |
Weight | 0.84 Pounds |
25. 008 Buna-N O-Ring, 50A Durometer, Round, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 125)
- Made of Buna-nitrile (also called Buna-N) for use with a variety of fluids from petroleum to aliphatic hydrocarbons
- Durometer (hardness) of 50A for resistance to penetration
- Round cross-section to provide a seal between cylindrical overlapping surfaces
- For use across a wide temperature range from -30 degrees F/-34 degrees C to 250 degrees F/121 degrees C
- Meets standards defined by Aerospace Standard AS568A
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Number of items | 125 |
Size | 008 |
26. Robert Larson 800-1800 Honing Guide
- Country Of Origin: Taiwan, Province Of China
- Model Number: 800-1800
- Item Package Dimension: 5.0" L x 5.0" W x 2.0" H
- Item Package Weight: 1.0 lb
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.75 Inches |
Length | 4.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1-Pack |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
27. 008 Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 100)
- Made of Buna-nitrile (also called Buna-N) for use with a variety of fluids and hydrocarbons
- Can be used across a wide temperature range from -30 degrees F (-34 degrees C) to 250 degrees F (121 degrees C)
- Round in cross-section to provide a seal between cylindrical overlapping surfaces
- Durometer (hardness) of 70A for resistance to penetration
- Meets standards defined by Aerospace Standard AS568A
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Number of items | 100 |
Size | 008 |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
28. EX ELECTRONIX EXPRESS Variable Transformer, 300 VAC Max, 0-130V Output, 3 Amp
- Input: 120 volt AC, Output: 0~130 volt AC, 3 Amp Slow Blow Fuse
- Max VA: 300VA, 3 Amp. Max (surge)
- A rating of 300VA means that at 100volt, the unit can sustain at maximum 3amp. If at 120 volt the unit can sustain at 2. 5amp
- WARNING: Most devices have a surge amperage (when first turned on) that is much higher than the device's operating amp rating.
- EXAMPLE: A motor with a 3 amp rating may have over 5 amp surge, and you will need a 5 amp variable transformer
Features:
Specs:
Height | 6 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 6.3 Pounds |
Width | 6 Inches |
29. Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with Slotted Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 w/.4mm Nozzle
- Fits: Wanhao i3, Monoprice Maker Select 3D Printer v2, Cocoon Create 3D Printer
- .4mm Nozzle Plated with HIGH LUBRICITY WEAR RESISTANT TwinClad XT Coating
- Kit Includes: Thermal Barrier Tube, Plated Nozzle and Slotted Cooling block
- Slotted Clamping system, No set screw to ding and damage thermal tube, Significantly better heat transfer
- Made in USA by Micro Swiss
Features:
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.0440924524 Pounds |
30. Apera Instruments AI209 Value Series PH20 Waterproof pH Tester Kit, ±0.1 pH Accuracy
- Easy auto. calibration with buffer recognition; auto. temp. compensation (ATC) ensures accuracy in various temperatures (32 to 122F)
- Backed by Apera quality pH sensor with low impedance, ensuring high response rate
- Comes in a rugged carrying case with pH 4&7 buffers and a lanyard
- Auto recognition of stable values improves consistency, so you don't have to guess when to manually hold measurement
- Up to 2000 hours' continuous operation, powered by AAA batteries
Features:
Specs:
Color | Regular Kit |
Height | 1.181102361 Inches |
Length | 7.0078740086 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Regular Kit |
Weight | 0.24375 pounds |
Width | 1.6141732267 Inches |
31. Comgrow Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer with Removable Build Surface Plate and UL Certified Power Supply 220x220x250mm
REMOVABLE BUILD SURFACE PLATE: Provide all-round protection to your 3D printer build plate and ensure consistent temperature throughout the build surface. Easy to remove the printing models after cooling.SAFE POWER SUPPLY: Ender 3 Pro comes with a UL Certified power supply, protecting your printer f...
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 0 Inches |
Length | 0 Inches |
Size | Ender3 Pro |
Weight | 18.959754532 Pounds |
Width | 0 Inches |
32. BAFX Products - Decibel Meter/Sound Pressure Level Reader (SPL) / 30-130dBA Range - 1 Year Warranty
- FEATURES - Automatic backlit display for easy visibility in dark situations. MAX/MIN hold feature for measuring absolute high/low peaks. +/- 1.5dBA with 0.1dBA resolution & measuring range of 30-130dBA. Automatic power off feature to save battery life (easily disablable). Sampling rate of 2x/Second. Up to 30 hours of continuous use on a single 9V battery.
- EASY - Super easy and simple to use. All readings are measured in dBA, the most common decibel reading for most all applications, home and commercial. Simply turn on and get a reading! Large easy to read backlit display with a MAX/MIN function to know the MAX and MIN dB levels recorded by the meter.
- AFFORDABLE - Our sound meters are designed with the general consumer in mind, made with the features required by most users while eliminating uneccessary features that only add to the cost that will not normally be used by most consumers. This way you will only be paying for what you really need in a sound meter, a decibel reading.
- VERSATILE - A great basic sound meter for use across the spectrum in many different fields from music recording, neighbor noise complaints, industrial settings, office settings, speech therapy & more.
- WARRANTY - 1 Year no hassle manufacutrer warranty against all manufacturing defects with friendly and responsive USA based support staff who will be happy to help with any and all questions or concerns!
Features:
Specs:
Color | Dark Blue |
Height | 1.5 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Size | Standard |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 2 Inches |
33. BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer
- A general add-on heated bed power expansion module for 3D printer
- Completely solve the hot bed power is too large and the load current issue. It can work with the Anet A8
- With this addon module to your 3D printer motherboard you can lead the maximum current up to 15A
- Under the premise of normal heat dissipation, this module can work steadily under the condition of I(Max)=15A. Don't exceed 15A during the process.)
- If you intend to use heated bed with your 3D printer that uses a 12V power supply, then this module is recommended, else it may cause excessive current during times which may burn the connectors on the controller board, According to the thermal power of the bed, please choose the appropriate power supply, with sufficient margin. If it is large power heated, we suggest 24V power supply, under the same power requirements, current is less than 12 v
Features:
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
34. HATCHBOX 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm, 1.75 mm, 1 kg Spool, Wood
- 1KG (2.2 lb) Spool
- Wood 3D Printer Filament Vacuumed Sealed With Desiccant
- Recommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature 175°C - 220°C (347°F - 428°F)
- 1.75mm Filament Diameter (Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm)
- Spool Diameter: 7.88" - Spool Width: 2.69" - Spool Hub Hole Diameter: 2.20"
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.8 Inches |
Length | 8.7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | November 2017 |
Size | SPOOL |
Weight | 2.20462262 Pounds |
Width | 8.39 Inches |
35. VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower for Grow Tent
- Powerful Airflow: This VIVOSUN powerful blower with a fan speed of 2500 RPM can create an airflow of 195 CFM; It works efficiently in ventilating grow tents, transferring heat or cool rooms, circulating fresh air, as well as controlling proper humidity, temperature, and air quality for your grow area
- Quiet Operation: Fitted with a flow deflector that concentrates the fan stream and cuts turbulent kinetic energy to reduce sound output to just 30 dB, which does not have any harm to your health and will not disturb your work
- Safety Protection: The motor is ETL listed and features an automatic reset function to prevent overheating or other safety issues; The electrical junction box is made from flame-retardant components for fireproofing
- Simple Hookup: The flanges on both the intake and exhaust ends are simple to assemble with the vent hose by locking tabs; A cord of 5.9-feet long for hassle-free setup; The housing, even the impeller and blades, are easy to detach for cleaning and maintenance
- Wide Applications: It can improve airflow to reduce humidity, block odors, and lower temperatures in grow rooms, basements, or kitchens; Can be used with a variable speed controller (bought separately)
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 6.7 Inches |
Length | 7 Inches |
Size | 4 Inch |
Weight | 2.5 Pounds |
Width | 7.3 Inches |
36. MG Chemicals 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Electronics Cleaner, 945 mL Liquid Bottle
- 99.9% Anhydrous solvent—Removes water and humidity from components leaving them dry
- Meets reagent ACS
- Meets MIL Spec TT-I-735A and ASTM D770
- Less than 0.001 g/100 mL non-volatile residues
- Suitable for use in food facilities as a non-food chemical. NSF International registration #144029
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 0.94 Inches |
Length | 0.31 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Quart Single |
Weight | 1.75 Pounds |
Width | 0.31 Inches |
37. ANYCUBIC Photon UV LCD 3D Printer Assembled Innovation with 2.8'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.53"(L) x 2.56"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size
Entry-level:Easy to set up, leveling was a breeze. Software is relatively simple to use. Only 4 settings far fewer settings to adjust vs FDM printer.Incredible Resolution:Make tiny parts with accuracy, much smoother detail and quality than the FDM printer.Fast Shipping: Multiple models on a buil...
Specs:
Color | Yellow |
Height | 15.74803148 Inches |
Length | 7.87401574 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Large 4K LCD Photon Mono X |
Weight | 30.86471668 Pounds |
Width | 8.661417314 Inches |
38. AGPtek Digital All-purpose Temperature Controller STC-1000 w/Sensor
Switch the modes between cool and heatControl temperature by setting the temperature setting value and the difference valueTemperature calibrationRefrigerating control output delay protectionAlarm when temperature exceeds temperature limit or when sensor error.
Specs:
Height | 1.3779527545 Inches |
Length | 2.9527559025 Inches |
Weight | 0.440924524 Pounds |
Width | 3.3464566895 Inches |
39. Glycerin Vegetable - 1 Gallon (10.75 lbs or 172oz net wt) - Non GMO - RSPO - Sustainable Palm Based - USP - KOSHER - PURE - Pharmaceutical Grade - safety sealed HDPE container with resealable cap
- Full Gallon - 10.5lb by weight
- Non GMO - 100% Pure
- Kosher
- USP (pharmaceutical grade)
- Palm Derived VG
Features:
Specs:
Color | clear |
Height | 12 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 128 Fl Oz (Pack of 1) |
Weight | 10.6 Pounds |
Width | 6 Inches |
40. Neiko 10194A Titanium Step Drill Bit, High Speed Steel | 1/4 to 1-3/8 | Total 10 Step Sizes
- 2-FLUTE DESIGN: Titanium-coated bit with 2-flute design for versatile drilling in steel, stainless steel, copper, aluminum, and other surfaces
- CUTS AND DEBURRS: Cuts through steel, sheet metal and other surfaces with only a small amount of pressure and deburrs as you drill
- SUPER STRONG: Made of high speed steel and titanium coated for added durability and bit life
- MULTIPLE DRILL SIZES WITH ONE BIT: 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8, 1, 1-1/8, 1-1/4, 1-3/8-inch
- VERSATILE AND FAST: 3/8" 3-flat shank prevents slippage when drilling new holes or enlarging existing holes
Features:
Specs:
Color | Titanium |
Height | 1.6 Inches |
Length | 6.1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1/4” to 1-3/8” (10 Sizes) |
Weight | 0.31 Pounds |
Width | 2.9 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on industrial & scientific
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where industrial & scientific are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Woodworking with power tools revolves around the table saw. If you go that path, get the best one you possibly can. But used so your money goes father.
Woodworking with hand tools needs a few things:
I'm a big believer in starting small and cheap and working my way up. With a few hand tools, you can get started for under $200 and have everything you need to make good quality stuff. The skills you learn with those tools will transfer to every project in the future, no matter how big. Fine joinery is the same, whether the boards are cut with a hand saw or a table saw, and you will never learn to read wood with a power jointer, planer and table saw like you will with a handsaw and bench plane.
As you reach competency with these tools, you can decide how you want to expand your tools to achieve more. That may be more hand tools like a dovetail saw, additional planes, cabinet scrapers, etc, or it may be power tools with a table saw, band saw, dust collector, etc. Or it may be somewhere in the middle.
Personally, I do this for relaxation, so a quiet shop and a face free of respirators and face shields is much better to me. Since I am in no hurry to finish projects, I use primarily hands tools (I have a few power tools from a previous life that I'll pull out on very rare occasions. I think often about selling them).
If getting stuff done drives you, though, power tools are a great way to do that. It changes woodworking a little because it becomes a skill of setting machines up correctly (not a trivial skill!) to get the correct cut.
The Wood Whisperer, who coined the phrase and, literally, wrote the book, Hybrid Woodworking, does a pretty good job blending hand and power tools. If I cared more about getting things done (and had the space and money to devote to it), that would be the path I would follow.
Chamfer/deburr - the two you have listed fit on a case prep machine that I don't see listed. One like this, made by every manufacturer, is all that is needed https://www.midwayusa.com/product/465641/rcbs-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-17-to-60-caliber or https://www.midwayusa.com/product/171844/hornady-deluxe-4-blade-chamfer-and-deburring-tool
For a bench priming tool, this one https://www.midwayusa.com/product/457599/rcbs-automatic-bench-priming-tool is more highly reviewed, and the one I use now. First 15 yrs I primed on the RockChucker press. Or get a hand-primer as suggested. Got extra space on your bench, get it. Wanna watch TV and prime, get a hand tool. Up to you really.
And get the shorter handle for the press https://www.midwayusa.com/product/528383/forster-co-ax-single-stage-press-short-handle , much easier to work with. I do 7mag, .270, 30-06, and haven't felt the need for the unwieldly standard longer handle yet.
This guy makes a much better set of jaws for the press. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BpFD7NbvL8 . Worth it? Take Forsters jaws on/off a few times. Then you'll say YUP. I'm honestly surprised Forster hasn't bought this guy out or designed their own like this.
One thing I have found with the Forster press vs O-ring presses, is that the Forster forces you to sit more in front of it, to facilitate 2 handed operation, and thus slightly farther away from the workbench. The O-ring style presses are more open to your left hand placing and picking up cases. Lefties gotta work at it with O-ring presses. I managed to angle my press slightly on my bench to minimize this realization.
As u/unrulywind mentioned, a decapping die is nice to have so you can remove the primer, clean the case, then get to work without getting any grit into your dies, my choice https://www.midwayusa.com/product/211699/hornady-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die
As for neck sizing dies, they are something you could get later if you find a need for it. I'd wait until you are more familiar with the process, and then go with a bushing bump neck die like Forster makes https://www.forsterproducts.com/product/bushing-bump-neck-sizing-dies/ , or a Redding https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018049293/redding-type-s-bushing-full-length-sizer-die . If you're going down this rabbit hole you would probably want to get a good neck turner/reamer https://www.midwayusa.com/case-neck-turners-and-reamers/br?cid=10455 . But going down this rabbit hole this early on is not necessary. Most never do. Aren't most of the bench-rest guys going with full length sizing now?
And as u/-RicFlair mentions, the comparator tools would be more useful to you earlier on than the neck sizing/reaming tools. This is the comparator body with bullet ogive inserts. https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-comparators/lnl-comparator-body-w-14-inserts-prod36535.aspx . You should be able to find just a body and a .30 cal insert. And then these fit the same comparator body but measure shoulder bump https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-comparators/sinclair-bump-gage-insert-prod35265.aspx . Just for clarity, all this paragraph attaches to your caliper tool, so as u/-RicFlair also mentions, this is a reason to have 2 or more calipers. I have one dial caliper (never needs batterys) and one electronic which makes it easier to zero-out the comparator body + insert, so you're getting true lengths without having to perform subtraction, or re-zeroing a dial caliper.
This electronic caliper has been found to be accurate and inexpensive and the one I use https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525514664&sr=8-1&keywords=origincal . Keep extra 2032 batteries around! They give an extra battery in the case, but you don't want to be caught without. It matches up with my more expensive Brown & Sharpe dial caliper exactly, so far.
All my new cases also get prodded once with this tool https://www.midwayusa.com/product/729748/lyman-flash-hole-uniformer-tool . And after every firing (or 2) with one of these https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=primer+pocket+cleaner&userItemsPerPage=48 . Note that the steel pin wet tumblers will clean this debris out, but the tool is so cheap why not have a manual version for those once off/extra dirty times.
Case cleaning: 4 choices in approx $ low-\>high - wipe by hand cloth - dry media tumbler - sonic solution wet vibe - steel pin wet tumbler. The last one is the latest invention and the one to go to if you want/need shiny clean. https://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/reloading/case-cleaning/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104661180/platinum-series-rotary-tumbler-l/1811194.uts?slotId=0 Does an amazing job. Do you want to wet tumble every time? Perhaps not, so one of these is the original standby https://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/reloading/case-cleaning/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104661180/thumlers-tumbler-ultra-vibe-tumbler/705516.uts?slotId=8 . Still using the one i got since um lets see 1972ish, so wow, yeah 46 yrs ago. LOL. I won't recommend any other dry media tumbler.
Powder measure - can't go wrong with something like this https://www.midwayusa.com/product/759813/redding-match-grade-3br-powder-measure-with-universal-metering-chamber . You might need a stand to go with https://www.midwayusa.com/product/552580/redding-rs-6-powder-measure-bench-stand . I see that Redding has come out with a few more powder measures since I last gandered at them, so pick what u want.
Powder Trickler - https://www.midwayusa.com/powder-tricklers/br?cid=9212 your pick, they all should be decent, but I'd pick the Frankford first, RCBS 2nd. $20 ish. The Redding is too short, don't know why they haven't realized it yet. Still good, but theres better for your money.
Powder funnel - https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=powder+funnel&userItemsPerPage=48 . You can buy the pricey aluminum ones if you must have the best of the best, but the $5 jobbers have been doing the same job for a long time too, for the other 99.5% of us.
Scale - find an old used Lyman M5 or RCBS 505/510/1010 on ebay. Seriously. The ones that were made in good ole USofA. If it doesn't work to your satisfaction, there is a guy here that will re-tune to better than original. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/tag/scott-parker/ . Or get an elec/batt scale. People seem to like the RCBS ChargeMaster https://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-ChargeMaster-Combo/741110.uts?slotId=0
Pick up another couple reloading manuals, Hornadys and Noslers. You can find bullet/charge weights online too, but say power or internet goes out, you've nothing to do, so may as well reload some. You want to pick another load to work up. What do? One manual is not enough.
Also useful to find an older volume of the same manuals at gunshows/shops in your area. I think Hornady is up to 10th ed. Find a 2nd or 3rd ed. to see how much the lawyers have caught on to our game.
I know Forster is still made in USA. I think Redding and Hornady too. But RCBS has left this shore and it shows. Thats why my money goes to the first 3. You can't go wrong swapping their versions for what I've suggested here.
When you have another wad of cash burning a hole in your pocket, and you've digested what you're doing thus far, there are other gauges/accessories/rabbit holes to fall into and spend your hard earned dough on. Hit me up, I've got more suggestions.
Gotta like spending other peoples money !!!!
I started mixing back in January, and here's the list of the items I got off of Amazon to get set up:
There's a few incidentals, such as nitrile gloves, eye protection(You do NOT want nicotine in your eyes!) paper towels. Bottles! How could I forget bottles?!? Again, Amazon to the rescue-just head over to 510 Central's storefront They've got some of the best HDPE bottles on Amazon-Nice and squeezy but firm. If glass is more your thing, I'm sure there's a bunch of those on Amazon too.
Here's a little tip I use: When mixing, put your VG and PG in some condiment-style bottles(I picked up a couple at a craft store in the candy making dept) When you're mixing in small bottles, it saves time and mess to pour from a squeeze bottle than a syringe. Syringes and VG don't work too well-It's like sucking snot up a straw.
I'm also going to say head over to /r/DIY_eJuice and read up on mixing. There's a TON of great info in the sidebar-READ ALL OF IT. When you get ready to start mixing, pick 2 or 3 recipes that sound good and buy the flavors for those. It's a lot easier and less expensive than buying a slew of flavors that sound great but don't play well with others. Enjoy!
I'm no pro, but here's my suggstion.
Marking and measuring are important. Get a knife of some sort. This marking knife is cheap and well regarded. Get a combination square (lot available at all sorts of price points). For a longer straight edge, you can use extruded aluminum or angle aluminum which is cheap, lightweight, and straight enough. Then learn to create a knife edge and a handsaw (either western push style, or japanese pull style) and you can cut wood accurately to size.
You're planes will then get you to flatten and surface your boards (you can use the aluminum as winding sticks). Lots of resources available for rehabbing planes. Then the next step is joints. For this, chisels and a comfortable mallet are great (and a rabbet plane if you can find/afford one). To make life easier, a coping saw and a drill (electric or brace and bit) can clear out waste for you. It makes life easier. But the key here is keeping your planes and chisels sharp. I don't know of a budget way to do this. I've got a few Ezelap diamond stones (coarse, fine and extra fine) that I use, but there are other methods as well (sandpaper on glass, waterstones, oil stones, tormeks). But sharpening is critical to handtool woodworking happiness. You might want a sharpening guide as well. The cheap ones work great (I'm not sure why these are so expensive. I think I paid $8 for mine). Then build one of these and you're all set for sharpening. Finally, you need stuff to stick together, so glue and glue applicators are worth looking into. I also use my cabinet scrapers quite a bit, but that's just me. They're cheap so I think everyone should have one.
After that, you can spend all sorts of money on other stuff as you progress. But most anything square can be built with this setup.
I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.
Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.
Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:
Hand Tools
Clamps
Measuring/Marking
Sharpening Gear
Consumables
Safety Gear
3d printing is a pretty niche process, but it has some incredibly cool applications. I use mine for printing custom parts for DIY projects, special items for Cosplay, and little minifigurines for tabletop games. They'll probably never replace injection molding, but for small scale projects they're fantastic.
As for the quality of the printers, it depends a lot on what you're talking about. Something like an Ender 3 is a great machine, both inexpensive and decent quality, but still essentially a hobbyist tool. More expensive brands like Makerbot do lots of little proprietary things to their machines to make them more capable of high quality prints, though in my experience you can usually get pretty close to professional using hobbyist machines as well.
Some printers are also just produced with higher quality parts, which makes them print better and operate more reliably, but still essentially are the same basic design as the cheaper versions. Compare the Ender I posted earlier to something like this which has a plastic frame. The plastic can warp and bend, leading to issues printing, wheras the ender has a metal frame which is more rigid. That simple change makes a huge difference in print quality, and other things like that can be done, from changing the extrusion method to using higher quality electronics, all of which changes the price and quality, but ultimately not how the printer actually "works".
Start small. It'll save you money, let you get your feet wet, and help you learn how to grow better, and then you can buy bigger.
My "starter package" is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWGYYWO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I4NY8KW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8ZQYHA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q2ER5C/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pots-5-Gallon-Soft-Sided-Container/dp/B002JUOWB2
https://www.amazon.com/FoxFarm-FX14053-12-Quart-Organic-Potting/dp/B001I49Q98
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Garden-Treasures-15-31-in-Rust-Plastic-Plant-Saucer/50445000
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PS4B08
So for about $420 (heh), you can get your foot in the door and start growing. This is a nice setup too, you can probably save $100 by shopping around, buying used, or doing-it-yourself. I've left off a few odds and ends like dryer duct, Fiskers for trimming, weed fabric pins for low-stress training, pitcher for watering, Mason jars for storage, but you can likely find those or suitable replacements around the house without spending money.
I also have a Raspberry Pi 3 ($43) with Sense Hat ($37) and metal case ($15) in each of my grow tents to log temperature/humidity and other things. I'm interested in eventually using the GPIO functionality to water my plants too. Not critical, but definitely a nice thing to have, especially if you're the hacker type. If you go this route, you might look at raspiviv.com too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6FFNY4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014HDG74S
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722L338Q
I'm glad I bought a good intro setup because I still use it now that I've upgraded. I now have a 3' x 3' GG Shorty tent with HLG 300 LED for flower, a 2' x 2.5' GG Shorty tent with two 400W Roleadro COB's for veg, and my "intro package" is now my germination/cloning tent (and drying tent too since several people suggested that too). Being able to have three tents (germination -> veg -> flower) working simultaneously is increasing my output quite sharply. I'm doing this to help a relative with cancer, so you may not need to go quite as crazy as I did.
You mentioned using 35+ gs (~1.25 oz) a month. You probably aren't going to be able to grow that much given the constraints of tent size and light wattage (plus being a first-time grower! You'll learn a lot!). So once you get used to it, you'll probably want to buy more stuff. Marijuana isn't addictive, but growing marijuana absolutely is.
Once you've got your hardware, the variable cost is seed (~$10), soil (~$5), nutrients (~$20), and electricity (~$30). From that, I'm going to estimate you can grow ~1.5 ozs (you can do more as you learn more though). So you're looking at ~$40/oz after you've made the initial hardware investment.
Hope this helps. Depression, cancer, and everything else can just go suck it.
Congrats and welcome to the club!
> Some of the supports looked "wonky" during the print. Like, they didn't go "straight up". Is that normal or did it not have enough cooling?
Not sure what you mean. This print doesn't use supports. Do you mean the walls? Any photos that can show us what you observed?
When printing PLA, more cooling is almost always better: hard to have too much. I'm not sure what problem you observed or whether cooling would have solved it, but better cooling will definitely improve future prints.
> As you can see, it was printed on a raft. If you look cloesly, the bottom of the of the butterfly has a slight lip around it (like the first couple layers are wider than the rest. Is there anything I can do to improve upon that so it's straight the whole way up and down?
Hm, it's not as common to see elephant's foot for something printed on a raft. Usually it happens from the nozzle really squishing the first layer into the bed, or the bed being too hot.
You'll want to learn how to print without rafts ASAP, at which point you'll want to keep an eye on that. Leveling and temperature will make a difference once you're printing directly on the bed, but the best solution is usually a model that compensates for this with a chamfer. After all, really squishing that first layer helps with adhesion and finish. A chamfer allows this without the elephant's foot.
> It has a heated bed with that "sticker/tape/thing".. Does that mean I don't need to bother with painter's tape/a glue stick/hair spray?
I just print straight to my Maker Select bed (with their version of Buildtak that you show in your photos).
Some people still add tape/glue on top of it, but I haven't found it necessary. I've printed everything straight on the bed (mostly PLA, some PETG and TPU) and haven't had a problem yet with adhesion (knock on wood).
> I plan on doing the MOFSET mod and getting a glass plate as soon as I replenish my "fun" funds next month (kinda drained it all picking this thing up).
Just my opinion - some others will disagree - but I'd put money towards the MOSFET before new filament. Maybe you don't have some of the tools and would need to buy them, but the MOSFET itself is just over $10. That's less than a roll of filament and protects the integrity of your new purchase.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497736485&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=i3+plus+all+metal+hotend
all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=sUxZ5&pf_rd_r=W5Q7RV181EJYGTBW4YDJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01HCVJ3K2&pd_rd_w=ZPXZq&pf_rd_i=tri+gorilla&pd_rd_r=F2X8G4XDPCVTNXX6J560&ie=UTF8&qid=1497736655&sr=1
heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=i3+plus+cooler&sa=&dwh=295945a7ab3d0cd
print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.
these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.
oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631
that's also something you should do asap.
Although I need mine for my own hydroponic botanical needs, I can recommend the meter I use as a low-cost solution if nobody has one for you.
This is the one I use, and it's quite cheap at $15, but will still read just fine. Just get some calibration solution and check it a couple times between uses, until you are satisfied it is keeping calibration, then you can go longer without testing. I kept checking mine and it never lost calibration, so I've been pretty happy with it. It is not waterproof though, and after dropping mine in the reservoir I had to relearn how to read it due to to LCD cells lighting up when they shouldn't (so 5.8 read as 9.8 because the extra line on the 5 lit up.) After recalibrating, it was fine, just wonky to read, testing against drops and ph buffered nutrient solution (always sets itself to 5.8ph) showed it was calibrated fine. So just don't get it wet, and be careful not to break the probe putting the cap back on, as it's made of glass and the cap edge can crush it.
Another better quality one that I hope to get soon is this one, although it is more expensive at $50, it is also waterproof and just all around better quality.
> I have an extra fridge that doesn't stay super cold, but probably hovers in the the 40-60 range. Should I used it for fermentation/lagering? I would be willing to buy a temp controller later on, but I'd like to start using it now as a cool chamber to control my fermentation temps more readily. I don't think I can count on cool conditions in my garage come summertime in Texas.
That should be perfect for pretty much any brew
> I am building a small keezer from a haier chest freezer we picked up for free (wedding gift return/exchange). As for temperature control for that, should I get a simple outlet-plug in controller (more expensive) or can I possibly opt for a built in unit like this: http://www.amazon.com/All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Stc-1000/dp/B008KVCPH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381420269&sr=8-1&keywords=temperature+controller. I should mention I don't have electrical experience. I am trying to do this as cheaply as possible, and aesthetic is something of an issue- the keezer will be in our dining room.
The STC1000 is nice and cheap, but you do have to build a box for it, unless you want to wire it directly into the compressor. I too, have zero electical experience, and have not yet burned my house down with mine. I found these instructions to be particularly helpful.
Where to start with my update.
I began collecting the parts for the controller. I am using a BME280 for the temp and humidity sensor, this little screen for reading conditions at the chamber, 8 channel relay to control the various electronics, this fan and this filter for fresh air.
Here is an album of updated photos. The first is a blast gate controlled by a servo to control the fresh air flow. When the fan turns on the servo will open the gate and allow the fan to suck air out (more on that later). Next up is the freezer with the collar on. Its not put together properly yet but just a rough test fit shows its looking good. Then I have two inside shots of the chamber itself.
After talking with someone who understands air flow much better than I do, I changed the position of fan and filter as well as direction. The fan is going to suck air out from one side and the other will have the filter on it. This will keep the lid down, where as if the fan pumped air in it could lead to a pressure build up and the lid may crack open slightly. The elbows are put in so its not just the top air that is circulating. I am thinking of turning them so they don't point straight down but for now its good.
The inside shot show the slots made to hold up to 7 bars. I am going to seal in the collar with a piece of wood on the top then fill it with spray foam insulation and silicone it to the freezer.
The other thing that has changed since I last posted was that I was going to try to do the code myself. As I got parts in and tried to put something together it became clear there is no way I can do it. After searching around I put out a bid on upwork.com and now I am working with a friendly fellow from Nepal. We haven't gotten to far but I am excited by his proposal and he will be adding the ability for me to control it from a webpage.
Anyway that is it for now. I can see there isn't much activity on this post or another related post but I am going to follow through with the updates because in my searches for this project I cam across a lot of half finished ideas and projects. RemindMe! 2 months
This is my Full Metal Printed Filco Majestouch-2 TKL
I posted pictures earlier here:
http://redd.it/1i58od
It is made using the following:
FAQ:
The only way I was able to get the modifiers was to simply buy the entire 87 key set. I really wish I was able to buy each key I needed separately, I am now forced to sell my old zinc keycaps.
Yes, They are also available unprinted. I posted pictures earlier of an unprinted set on geekhack when I ordered my keycaps. The aluminum case pictured below is a MKC case and is much more expensive then the Vortex. http://i.imgur.com/BMf6cQ5.jpg
Currently it's like typing on "light blue" as the wieght of the keys lightens the actuation force required. I also added o-rings http://amzn.com/B0051XWXCE (be sure to order 2 sets) to give it a bit of a bounce when it bottoms out which is great as I type heavy. The noise it makes is distinctive and satisfying even with the o-rings.
The green fingers and distinct smell of zinc keys are from unplated zinc keycaps and since these are plated it is not an issue.
I can usually wipe off any residue with my fingers. Zinc keycaps are fairly resistant to marks or stains and very easy to clean as well. The plated metal does not show any noticeable fingerprints and it is very difficult to see any fingerprint residue even in the brightest of lights. No matter which keyboard you own be sure you have some isopropyl rubbing alcohol available for cleaning up.
$215 Keycaps $150 Case $150 Keyboard $16 O-rings. I will hopefully be able to sell the Ninja keycaps and Filco case and other accessories that I accumulated to help fund part of the cost. All items I currently have available will be in my Album http://imgur.com/a/5tsOm or on /r/mechmarket
I have a 2x2 tent and a Can Fan S-400, which was what my hydro shop recommended when I was getting started. There are no doubt cheaper 4" fans on Amazon, but it seems very well made and has a 5 year warranty. I also have a Vivosun 4" fan, which I run freestanding with an extra carbon filter attached to scrub the air during harvest. It works, and isn't especially noisy, but feels very cheaply made.
I've heard people say that a 6" fan turned way down can quietly move a lot of air, but haven't tried it, and a 6" fan on full speed could suck in the tent walls too much or even tear them. (I get pretty strong negative pressure with my 4" fan on full!)
I haven't used any fans with an integrated speed controller, but the external fan speed controllers that actually reduce voltage are vastly superior to the cheap ones that just rapidly flip power on and off -- depending on the fan motor type, the latter can damage the motor or produce loud buzzing as you slow it down past a certain point. When I tried one with mine, anything below 80% or so started buzzing. The better controllers cost a bit more ($70 vs. $15), but since it's actual industrial equipment it should have good resale value.
My tent is in my home office and I don't find the noise problematic, if that helps.
For a 2x2 tent, it's probably more effective to control humidity in the surrounding room, rather than putting a dehumidifier in the tent.
My MS is out of commission right now due to a motherboard issue - but that's not something that's common occurence with these machines. That aside - I love my MS, it's a damn good printer for the price and works really well. Plus it's on the cheaper side of things and can be upgraded pretty easily. I would suggest getting this printer, and a glass sheet for a bed upgrade. The buildtak stuff they put on it is fine for a little bit, but the glass just produces better results in my experience. And if you want to at a later point in time, a MK10 all metal hotend nozzle upgrade (with cooling block) is also a fairly cheap and easy buy/install. Just the core machine though, no mods - is really good and easy to install and calibrate. Totally would buy another one if I could right now.
Glass bed
Nozzle upgrade
Seconding everything people have said here and want to add the following.
A glass bed with 10mil PEI from CS Hyde will do wonders for bed leveling.
Upgrade your Y plate as soon as possible, the stock one warps over enough time making bed leveling nearly impossible.
All metal hotend such as the micro swiss is amazing, no more clogged PTFE tubing, easier to clean if it does.
Z brace is a must, also print a fan cooler like the Diicooler on thingiverse. Replace the stock part cooling fan with a nice radial fan, plenty on amazon, make sure its 12v. This helps prints come out cleaner.
Yours should come with thumbwheels, if not, print some, bed leveling is easier with it.
Print some spring cups as well, keeps the springs straight and not bending when leveling the bed.
DO THE MOSFET MOD TO MAKE IT SAFE!
Watch this vid and do his printed mods https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpcm4XEbP1Q&t=752s&list=PLyIdpN_zILcknsQzSZSiWhQ685NxkWsvD&index=2
Also, stay far far FAR away from Shaxon filament! It broke my hotend, check my post history to see the red glob of death I dealt with. I have had very good luck with eSun PLA.
Links for bought parts:
Fans: [here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]
Glass plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2YLWF9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]
Hotend: [Here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]
Y plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]
MOSFET: [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)] and wires [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017U6PGLO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]
I haven't heard of anyone doing that. I guess it could work, but how effective would it be? I can't say. If you wanted to experiment, maybe get some P100 filters and test it out on some alcohol or acetone fumes.
What I do to vent fumes, and I suspect what most people do, is to simply run a duct with a fan to a window. Any 4" or 6" inline duct fan will work well. They're easy to mount, they're cheap, and they're very powerful.
This 6" inline fan is the one that I use. I have it plugged into a speed control because I rarely need it's full 400 CFM sucking power. I usually use it at about half power. I mounted it under my workbench with the output duct permanently installed in an adjacent window. I keep the input duct retracted under the table so I can pull it out when I need it.
I don't have any fancy system for this. When I'm cleaning a part and I need to vent the fumes, I just pull out the duct from under the table and rest it on the workbench next to the cleaning vats (being careful not to suck up any paper towels or nitrile gloves... for the tenth time). It's a bit ghetto, but it's very effective. I usually can't smell anything when the fan is running. Even isopropyl alcohol fumes get sucked away faster than they can reach my nose.
Hope that helps.
First grow.
This took 2-3 months. Seems like I ran into a number of first-timer pitfalls along the way. Good learning experience though.
Can't wait. So god damn tired of shady, undependable hook ups.
Edit 2:
Photos of my setup.
Edit 1:
Some have asked about my setup. This is about everything. This is my first grow so take my suggestions with a cup of salt but this stuff has worked well for me.
Tent:
Zero complains. Very happy with this. It just fits perfectly into a closet (had to remove the hanger bar though).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U6WCMY
Air
Carbon filter:
The inside of my tent stinks. I smell absolutely nothing outside. Don't get caught. Get a good carbon filter. Maybe not this one, but something.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FVJK60
Inline fan:
I hand this outside the tent. No need to take up any space or add any heat inside the tent.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JQ14F8
Variable xformer for fan control:
This allows me to control the noise and airflow. Every other fan controller made the fan buzz. This thing is quality built. I keep it around 50v.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
Circulation fans:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RTMD8C
DWC
Bucket top net pots:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049XIIGC
Air pump:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPEVMC
Airline:
The black just prevents light from getting into my res.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D4XTUU
Air stones:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050HJ7Q6
Check valves:
You NEED these. Many airlines are thin enough that if the power goes out or a hose becomes disconnected, capillary action might permit water to back-flow into your electrical air pump and/or just flood your room. Don't take chances when a .50 cent valve will protect you. There are some horror stories in the aquarium hobby about this. Note, even if the air pump is higher than your res, capillary action can pull the water up through the air hose. This is the same principle that allows 100ft trees carry water from the roots to the canopy.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00977J508
Lighting
Lights:
Word of warning. Start off a good distance between the lights and your canopy. These product more light than you think and I have burned and cooked plants from keeping these too close. They don't product a ton of heat or anything. I think it's just too much light if they aren't a good foot or so away from the canopy. I assumed I could practically lay LEDs on top of my canopy. Not so.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FGFLCXS
Adjustable ropes for lights:
Chains work, these are just faster/easier to adjust.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600
Tools
Temp/humidity sensors:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8
pH pen:
I used to do chemical reagent tests (I have tons of aquariums so I had it laying around). Never again. A pen is fucking awesome for dialing in pH every morning. Get one!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQISYQO
Pruning snips:
These are great. Sharp as fuck and solid.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SD76
Training wire:
What I use for my scrog screen and early training before the screen goes in. Also good for random shit that's temporary enough I don't want to waste a zip tie.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EXJ652
Nutes/Water changes
Pond pump:
This is another must have! I've been using these for a while now to handle water changes in my aquariums. It's also awesome for mixing nutes before they go into your DWC. I drop one in a bucket without a hose attached and then just dump all my nutes and such in. The pump does all the mixing. Then I adjust the pH a little. Give the pump about 10-20 seconds to mix my pH up or down in and test again. I don't have to worry my pH adjustment isn't probably mixed yet. I makes the mixing process so easy and fast. I also use these to pump out my res once the scrog screen is in place.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M6MSL0
Root protectant:
One of my early problems was with brown algae. This cleared it right up after a week.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGFH3FG
Syringes:
No guess work. I know exactly how many ml I'm adding.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB3CV6
Cal-mag:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J2CUPW
pH control:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
Nutes:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBT54
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO7U02
I don't mean a sharpening system like a buy this one this to sharpen your stuff like folks have for their kitchen knives.
I meant a method you have to keep your stuff sharp.
I started out using the 'scary sharp' sharpening method.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scary_sharp
Used a $3 tile from Home Depot and a set of sandpaper similar to this and used a honing guide like this one and then used Paul sellers techniques in this YouTube video
Also watch this Paul sellers video on preparing your chisels .
Scary sharp is great for beginner, and those that have little sharpening to do. The advantage and disadvantage is that you use up the sandpaper doing the sharpening. So the initial cost is low, but you need to keep paying for more it as your sandpaper supply runs out.
I lucked out and found a friend of a friend who gave me a pair of a course/fine combination oilstone similar to this. So I got a leather pad and stropping compound and then continued to use the honing guide and was very pleased with this result.
Now I'm pushing money towards getting a set of DMT diamond plates You want a course, fine, and extra fine. And lastly you want a 4000/8000 norton water stone.
This is what I meant by upgrading your sharpening system. All of these are options, and depending on your budget and needs, they can all work. Some advocate the buy once cry once mentality and just buy the last setup i talked about, but my progression has served me well enough that my shoestring budget allowed for continual progress, and also gave me the opportunity to cut my losses if I didn't use my chisels and planes as much as I do.
Hope this helps.
It depends on how much you want to spend, but the easiest way to control temps is with a dedicated fermentation fridge with a temperature controller to regulate the temperature. I generally only need to regulate down (i.e., cool the fermenter to keep it from getting too warm), but some climates require a dual regulator to be able to either increase or decrease temp, especially depending on the seasons.
The cheapest regulator that's gained a lot of popularity in the community in the last few years is the STC-1000. There's a bit of DIY involved in connecting this controller to an actual electrical outlet. But it does dual control for around $30 total (once you buys the outlet, etc.).
If you're less handy but have the money, you can get a controller like this Ranco. There are tons of other options, so just Google "refrigerator temperature controller" or something.
There are also much less robust, but also much less expensive options. Google "fermentation swamp cooler" or "son of a fermentation chamber" for some good, low-cost, DIY options.
> I also don't have any thermal paste yet
> Oh, it also looks like I need a keyboard! Any suggestions
Edit: For some more exotic mechanical keyboards keep an eye on MassDrop.com - Often have cool ones like this: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/leopold-fc660m
Yes, still have it - I've run about 1.5L of resin through it, just bought another couple of litres and am starting to think about changing the original FEP sheet out.
My only real complaint is with levelling. It's a bit of a hassle, not because it's hard, per se, it's just that you need to be really precise (you're doing ultra thin layers, after all) and it's easy to get a liiiitle out of whack. Then again, it's pretty much a one-time thing, so it's a marginal complaint in the grand scheme of things. I found it helps to run a piece of paper in each corner to check that they feel pretty much the same; it's easy for one corner to be a little loose. Once I figured that out, I spent maybe 15 - 20 minutes levelling (hold plate down, tighten, check... nope, still not even; loosen, repeat) and haven't touched it since.
As for the S... I think the improved LED is probably the biggest upgrade, since it should reduce cure times and will hopefully produce slightly better prints across the whole platform. That said, I don't know that I'd spend the money to upgrade from my original unit - I've never had any issues with Z wobble and would rather see linear rails if to improve the kinematics anyway. I'd actually be tempted to keep an eye out for sales on the base Photon - Amazon has done a few flash sales lately (LOL, they're actually doing one now!) for $370 or so, and at that price, I don't think the S is worth the premium.
https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Assembled-Innovation-Off-line-Printing/dp/B078N2TSYS
I've got three STC-1000s that I've ordered from multiple places and they have all been flashable - so I guess I've been lucky. The first two I bought from Amazon and the last one I bought from Alibaba although it took about 6 weeks to arrive. Mats has this link set directly on his Github page for the software so I figured this would be a really safe bet and it worked fine.
The flashing is pretty easy and there's a great instructional video on the blackboxbrew.com website. You'll need an Arduino Uno and some jumper wires which cost me about $20 at a specialty electronics shop. Best thing to do would be to ask around your homebrew club or brew shop if anyone has one that you could borrow. One guy brought his to a brew club meeting and flashed a whole bunch of peoples all at once.
Good luck with the build and feel free to hit me up for any questions. Go Leafs!
If you go hand tools, you can start with Rennaissance Woodworker’s minimum tool list. You can go with a lot of vintage tools to save money, but for fun I priced out all new tools of good quality. Many tools were recommended here. I've added a workbench and some reference books and videos too.
MINIMUM TOOL LIST
$169 Jack Plane Woodriver
$125 Hand Saw backless saw ~26″ in length
$28, $30, $35 - 1/4, 3/8, and 1″ chisels Ashley Isles MK2
$79 Back Saw Veritas Crosscut Carcasse
$12 Coping Saw Olson
$18 Marking Gauge Beech Marking Guage
$12 Square IRWIN Combination
$149 Some kind of sharpening set up (stones, sandpaper, whatever) Norton Waterstone Woodworker Package
$592 Subtotal
NICE TO HAVE
$13 Honing guide Eclipse style
$13 Marking knife Veritas
$22 Mallet Thor
$15 Book to learn from Essential Woodworker Book
$63 Subtotal
WORKBENCH
$27 Workbench plans Naked Woodworker
$123 Materials for Naked Woodworker, costs from Mike Siemsen
$35 Holdfasts Gramercy
$185 Subtotal
GRAND TOTAL
$840
The Ender-3 and Ender-3 Pro are good budget first printers. I would advise to buy the Pro over the standard Ender 3 since it has a Mean Well UL Certified power supply, rather a generic one. If you can afford it.
Recommend to buy it from Amazon for good customer service or Banggood and Aliexpress if you want the best price.
Ender-3: https://www.amazon.com.au/Comgrow-Creality-Ender-Aluminum-220x220x250mm/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ender+3&qid=1573525773&sr=8-1
Ender-3 Pro: https://www.amazon.com.au/Comgrow-Creality-Printer-Upgrade-Certified/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ender+3+pro&qid=1573525812&sr=8-3
There are other printers in that price range such as the Anycubic i3 Mega, Anet A8 and the Monoprice Select Mini, the Ender 3 is the most popular and easily available in Australia.
> Also wanting to know other than a printer what would I need to start 3d printing. i.e. what sort of computer programs and other periferals
You will need to install a slicer on your computer, which will convert 3D models into instructions for your 3D printer. If you don't want to have your printer plugged into your computer while it is printing, your computer will need to have an sd card slot, if not purchase an adapter.
Highly recommend reading through the Getting Started guide for this subreddit.
Also here is a guide on how to build the Ender 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q
And the Ender 3 Pro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibsOYzXduYc
Hope that helps
Veg week 2 of clones obtained from my local medical collective. First nutrient feeding at half strength (3tsp/gallon of Fox Farm Big Bloom). LST started on all plants with the GDP starting 2 days later then the others. Did some minimal pruning after the LST settled to get things out of the dirt and clean out some leaves that weren't getting any light. Growth seemed to slow a bit for a few days, might have shocked them a bit from being rough with them, but they are doing great now. Thinking of extending my veg an extra week to compensate, will wait and see if that will even be necessary.
Noticed some small bite marks taken out of a leaf, so I decided not to take any chances and got some AzaMax and gave the girls a good shower at about 0.4% concentration. I will be following that up with a few more applications over the next couple weeks. I'm debating if I want to do a soil drench as well. I also got a gnat sticks that already caught one of the bastards.
Temps with lights on have remained stable around 79F and the RH about 40%. Lights off with fan at 20% temps get to 67F at the lowest and 50% RH at the highest. Also have some new goodies coming from Amazon in the next few days to improve my setup like an Oakton pH2 and rope hangers with metal internal gears instead of those cheapo plastic ones that came with my lights.
 
    Strains
Blue Dream - DJ Short x Santa Cruz Haze. 80% Sativa / 20% Indica. 7-8 week flower cycle
Boy Scout Cookies - Girl Scout Cookies Thin Mint x Pre-98 Bubba Kush. 60% Indica / 40% Sativa. 8 week flower cycle.
Darth Vader Haze - 4-way Black Haze Black Cross. 100% Sativa. 9-10 week flower cycle.
Grand Daddy Purple - Big Bud x Purple Urkle. Indicia Dominant. 8-9 week flower cycle.
 
 
Veg Week 1 Reddit Post - Album
I'll agree with skunk in that I think the sanitary fittings was a bit overblown. I use threaded fittings on everything and have never had a problem. I take them apart about every 5 batches or so to clean them more thoroughly, but they stay pretty clean.
I would go with a 4'x4' tent at the very least; the one you've linked is too small for a 1000W lamp. I'm doing 4x3x7 right now with 1000W and it's really not easy to keep it cool, I'll often hit 88-90F even with AC in the room. A little bit larger space and it would be much more comfortable.
What are your plans for a growing medium? This might be more important than anything else you're buying! There are also a million options between soil, coco, and the various hydro setups like DWC, ebb and flow, etc. I've had good results with coco coir. You might be best off starting with a decent soil like the Fox Farms lines - pH is much easier to manage in soil.
Speaking of, you also want a good pH meter, and pH up and down. Just get the General Hydroponics pH test kit - it's cheap and you'll have enough to fix pH for your entire grow. For a meter, I recommend this Oakton unit. You'll also want some pH calibration/storage fluid to maintain it properly.
if you want something simple and insanely well priced when compared to other nutrients then check out dyna-gro.
dynagro foliage pro + pro-tekt and you will be years above most other growers. just focus on your environment which IMHO is the most important thing.
what is good about dynagro is it has everything in it as a base nutrient. with most other products (botanicare, GH, and famously Adv Nutrients) the base leaves out C and MG and micro nutrients.
Protekt is a silica additive that makes the plants noticeably stronger and thicker healthier stems.
If you call dynagro's number you can get a starter kit with a PK booster (used around week 4 and 7 of flower).
If you only want to water once every few days I suggest a hempy bucket https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=98419
You can do a coco hempy bucket too and is very popular as well. if you decide to go that route make sure to grab some botanicare Calmag. So your list would be dynagro foliage pro/dynagro protekt/botanicare calmag.
You will 100% need to buy a PH meter and I strongly advise an EC/PPM meter. These are the ones I use
https://smile.amazon.com/Oakton-EcoTestr-Waterproof-Tester-Range/dp/B004G8PWAU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1479005211&sr=8-13&keywords=ph+meter
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FPG89CE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In a hempy bucket and coco always PH to 5.5-6.2
If you were to put the plants in your pic in to a 3 gallon hempy bucket with vermiculite and perlite for the first 2-3 weeks you are going to want to water once every 2/3 days until a little bit of water flows out. Then when they get big once per day.
I would strongly, strongly suggest not using CFL's. It would be a better investment to get a 250-600w HPS. they are really cheap on amazon. If you go with 250w you dont want the plants to get bigger then a foot or so before you flip the schedule to 12 hours on and 12 hours off.
150W - LINK - Grow 1-4 small plants
600W - LINK - Grow 4-6 medium plants
Dont spend so much time on nutrients and what type of grow medium and focus mostly on keeping a good enviornment in terms of temp and humidity and fresh air. You also need to consider when you flower the room needs to be 100% dark. Even a tiny pinhole of light coming in can be very bad
Hey all, Im looking to get back into 3d printing. I used to own the Davinci 2.0, great device but it needed a lot of patience. I had to give it up, loved the size and quality of prints werent bad. The bed was always off an axis and its really a full time hobby.
​
To the point, Im looking to spend the least possible but my max is around 500. I dont mind building. NYC. Mostly use for parts of my dioramas 12th scale to 64 scale and some figures like boats, cars, hats, guns, maybe even cosplay peices like guns haha.
​
What type of filament should i use? Id probably prefer resin but I dont mind if someone else recommends something greater. Ive been eyeing thephoton, especially at 358 right now.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-824-1L-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C
It looks like it was in a flood or fire. Odds are the person turned it on and fried it. Your best bet is to save the cpu, the gpus by stripping them down. The motherboard is cheap to get, the ram is probably indestructible... forget the psu exists. You need to really clean the parts well to get the contaminants off. Head to walmart and get gallon jugs of distilled water, and just clean it really really well.
Do you have access to a large ultrasonic cleaner? Fill it with isopropyl and turn it on outside (so there's no fire and explosion risk).
After you use the alcohol to drive the water out, I would clean the gpus twice as the ram is bga, and get a can of pcb contact cleaner and blast it with that when totally done.
I'm pretty sure you can salvage the gpus if the caps are solid caps.
Keep us posted, this looks like fun.
Cool experiment, OP!
I have a couple of suggestions.
First, why not pick one or two very popular (and therefore most people will know them) songs from the 80s, 90s, 2000s, and recent Top 40 hits. That way almost everyone who participates in your experiment will have some idea of the song structure, rather than have to wade through an esoteric song they are unfamiliar with.
Second, get one of these. It's cheap, but useful, and will allow you to adjust the volume of each listening station (and song) so that the lossy and lossless songs are of equal volume (folks tend to think that the louder of 2 versions of a song is "better", so by using a decibel meter you prevent that particular bias)
Third, you may want to pick a very lossy version of a song (something like 96k mp3 (lossy) and have folks compare it with flac. Many people may be able to tell the difference. Now have them compare flac with something like 320k mp3. You may be surprised by the results.
And finally, if you are using M50Xs, it is only fair to pick a good dubstep song that wakes up the listener and slaps them around a bit. You know, something like this :-)
Thanks. I have greatly enjoyed learning the process at home. Even some of the early disappointments were enjoyable to some degree. I would strongly recommend starting with simple ones like cream cheese and goat cheese to get an idea for the process. Plus they don't require real aging so there is immediate gratification.
My cheese cave is just a tiny little mini-fridge I got for free from a friend. I use one of these to regulate the temp. You simply plug the fridge/freezer into it and based on your settings, it controls the power to the fridge. For humidity, just a glass of water in there is the best I can do.
FYI, The Monoprice Maker select V2 is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2.1, and its also known as the Coccoon Create in other countries. If you see any of those names, thats your printer.
Your printer doesnt use an E3D V6 hotend, it uses a MK10 hotend.
You can use a V6, but you'll have to print a bracket for it, will probably require some firmware changes with requires flashing a bootloader with an arduino, and may require some additional hardware.
Normally its recommended to just heat up your hotend and carefully pull that plastic off with tweezers, but as your heating cartridge is damaged, that leaves you with two options-
I never used it, but this one from Gulfcoast Robotics looks well made as well. this is your whole setup minus a heating cartridge. A whole all metal hotend with nozzle and thermistor for $45 is a deal. They've even got installation instructions linked in the description. Side note- i assume it takes a 1/4in 6.35mm cartridge like the original but you might want to double check with them. You can never go wrong with well-manufactured American components.
Either way you'll need a new heater cartridge (and probably thermistor). Heres a link to a replacement cartridge. Heres a link to a store full of wanhao parts.
This printer uses an unusual sized heater cartridge- 1/4in, AKA 6.35mm.
Most (E3D) cartridges are 6mm.
Dont get a 6mm cartridge, get a 6.3-6.35mm cartridge. (A 6mm will be too loose and thats one of the reasons that the Anet A8 is such a fire hazard, the heater cartridge can fall out)
Good luck!
Although yeah 3d printing isn't the cheapest hobby, it doesn't have to be too pricey either. Unless you were aware of it already, I wanted to let you know you can get a decent printer these days and a set of tools and filament, at least enough to get started comfortably, for under $400 total. And if you are fortunate enough to have more cash than that, you can find your bang-for-buck scales pretty linearly above and beyond, there are many great printers out there for people of all income levels.
Back when I was in college, I paid ~$350 for just the printer kit I had to assemble, being able to buy a (mostly) assembled printer for just two-thirds the price that has over 8x the build volume and a heated bed is awesome.
It is a hobby that is accessible to almost anyone who can scrap together a one-time cash investment and has some spare desk space at home. It's very cheap to design and print small models, a single spool lasts quite awhile as long as you don't do anything too crazy. Although it's fair to say while it can be cheap to operate in dollars, it can be quite time expensive!
Not to mention if you're clever it can save you money in the long run if you use it to repair your stuff, although I wouldn't expect it to pay for itself right away unless you break things a lot :)
Around $540. You can get it on amazon for $540 but you can also get them on ebay or aliexpress. Anycubic usually has one up for auction every week on ebay and I've seen them sell for $450-$480.
I like the fact that the photon doesn't need to be tethered like the D7 does (unless you spend extra on the control box) though there are a few other advantages like the clear panels to see inside, linear rails rather than rods. The main advantage of the D7 I have seen is the ability to control it using a raspberry pi and, it's more easily modified, and has a taller build volume.
OK good info! I can get loads of 3mm hardware easily so no worries there.
I found this hot end and cooling block in the related items: Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with SLOTTED Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d.w0xb2R481VR is this good for the price? I'll look online but are there specific enclosure designs that work best?
Also found a laptop cooling fan that is supposed to fit, and borosilicate glass for the bed.
I'm going to start slow with PLA and see where my adventures take me but I might get a reel of ABS too, hopefully I can make RC car parts and stuff like that the some point.
I just looked into buying one last year. There's not much under 40 that gives two decimal digits with good accuracy. I ended up inheriting this one that is $97. I'm not convinced that 2 digits is necessary for brewing, but I'm very happy with the Hanna.
If you're just getting into water chemistry and are looking to save money, I'd go with something like this. Good luck!
Personally I got a 301 and wish I would have gotten a 304... wish I would have made my ET a probe and not a dial gauge. I run it with artisan, but it’s nice knowing if something happens with the comp you can still roast if you want to. I also feel like there is a little lag in the computer so I glance at the thermometer from time to time.
I got an extra motor without the case as a backup ($20)
And https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XKDEVIQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Works like a charm
I went to 3 hardware stores before I realized there are inside and outside threads on the regulator to the propane tank... so you’re good there, I’m just dumb I guess
Lastly I highly recommend getting one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006NGI8VS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Happy roasting :)
Don't forget a speed controller! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
this one's highly recommended and people say it helps reduce the humming on the inline fan compaerd to cheaper speed controllers.
I'm sure the apollo tents are fine, I've heard slightly better reviews for the vivosun tents. This one's about $12 more than yours i think. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Horticulture-Hydroponic-Obeservation-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1478889774&sr=1-2&keywords=vivosun+48
The Mars 300 is chill for the price, you probably want to want to get a second one if you're going to have multiple plants in that tent. People say 1 mars 300 per plant should get you good results, almost pushing it with two full plants under a single mars 300.
Also if and when possible, try to invest in a good pH meter. everyone recommends bluelabs! https://www.amazon.com/Bluelab-Ultimate-Solution-Measuring-Temperature/dp/B008R7OWJS/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1478889906&sr=1-3&keywords=bluelabs+ph+pen
I didn't PH at first and my plants were dying on me... turns out my tap PH was above 7.0 ph. the PH pen saved grow!
So with your scope of use, reloading might not be the path best taken given the monetary outlay. There's plenty of scary good factory ammo (I'm a fan of the Hornady SuperPerformance line) where it does almost as good as my reloads, minus the hassle and labor. If you said you were shooting 69/77gr match stuff, I could almost definitely tell you to fire up the press.
If you intend to reload for other centerfire, especially large bore, or rimmed stuff, then the decision to grab a press is almost a given.
The meter is a matter of preference. I would shop based on how it's calibrated...some use 6.86 and 4.01 solutions but meters that calibrate at 7 & 4 may be more expensive but those solutions are cheaper. I have had probes break too so don't go crazy on price. I like this one because of the case it comes with along with the calibrating fluid. I would also get some sort of dropper it will help to adjust your ph. If it is just clean water a single drop of ph down will lower the oh by several points. Aim for 5.5-6.5
Draining and replacing the water won't solve your issue right away. As long as the plant stays alive and growing it should be fine. If you can remove the plant out of the bucket and run some water over it for a few minutes and replace the water it would probably help.
Edit: found a photo of my tomato last year. This thing got like 8ft tall.
http://imgur.com/a/cpSRuql
Hey man, I would love to help you quit smoking and didn't notice the first time I commented that you didn't have any experience with vaping. So I'm going to try to put together a list here of what you need to do to start vaping for very little money.
https://www.vapordna.com/Joyetech-eGo-AIO-All-In-One-Starter-Kit-p/egoaio.htm
This is another option for you.
https://www.vapordna.com/Eleaf-iCare-All-In-One-Ultra-Portable-System-p/icaref.htm
I love my Icare, but you will need to use high (24-36) mg ejuice with it, whereas with the ego you would need 12-24 mg/ml.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005UGBG20/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210602&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PSGWHIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210630&sr=8-2&keywords=vg
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K8UB5VO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210666&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pg
https://www.nudenicotine.com/product/500ml-100mgml-100-pg-nicotine-base-for-mixing-only/?attribute_size=120mL&attribute_solvent=100%25+PG
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081SRRFO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210749&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dropper+bottle
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IQTSE0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210793&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pippettes+plastic+droppers
OPTIONAL: flavoring. If you want flavoring just ask in a reply I'll let you know what to get based on your tastes, but it's not necessary and you're trying to go cheap.
This is the recipe for making flavorless, 12 mg juice.
http://e-liquid-recipes.com/recipe/1240996/For+cheapos
You can make an account at that site and adapt that recipe to be higher or lower nicotine if you want.
I know this seems a lot more expensive than the Ryo cigarettes, but trust me, this makes like a year or two worth of liquid and the mods I suggested have really cheap coils. Please believe me, this is worth every penny of the investment, you will never regret it. If you need help with mixing your first batch of eliquid, go to r/diy_ejuice and look at the new mixer thread in the sidebar. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask me, but comment it cause I don't get message notifications on my phone app.
Alright, That was a quick message off my phone.
Freezer - Sams Club - $199 - I bought at our local SAM's. I just put my kegs in there and use picnic tabs, I am working on setting up a wood collar to add taps.
Power/Temp Control - I bought this off amazon because it was cheeper than locally. There is also a digital version (costs more) I didn't see any reason to go with it.
CO2 tank, regulator, hoses, ETC: bad teacher brewing on South Airport, they also have the temp control. I would recommend a 20LB tank if you can fit it and afford it. 5lbs are nice, they are easy to move but you will get the most "bang for your buck" our of a 20lb when doing refills and the time it will last.
Filling your CO2 tank - Northern Fire and safety is going to be the best. They are reasonable and WAY cheaper than Air Gas.
I hope this gives you a good starting point. I can provide some more advice.
>Any chance you could be more specific on the dupont connectors required?
You'll need 4 pin dupont housings and dupont female connectors and a crimper for them. That's assuming you have something to strip the wires as well. You can find the dupont female pins and housings cheaper places like aliexpress, ebay, etc.. but I recommend buying a quality crimper instead of whatever is the cheapest you can find as a quality tool will make the job a lot easier. If you're really strapped for cash, there's video's of people crimping dupont connectors with pliers online instead of the crimp tool.
>So <motor><cA> => <cB><cable><cC> => <cD><RAMPS board>
The wires transfer over to the same place from melzi to ramps, and pretty much any board. You'll have a X endstop, y endstop, z endstop, then connectors for the X motor Y motor Z motor and extruder motor, and so on and so forth. A ramps guide will help you visualize what to connect where.
>Any idea how big a cable for the power?
IIRC, the stock wires at 18ga, which is fine for the ramps board since it only draws 5A for all the motors, hotend, etc. The only other larger gauge connectors are for the heatbed, which I believe are also stock 18GA. FWIW, I'd go with a external mosfet instead of using the ramps on board ones which are rated for 11A, which is just within spec of what the bed draws.
My father did almost the same thing except he was attempting to make a keg fridge out of a stand up freezer and tried drilling holes in the side. Brand new unit that wasn't even plugged in yet was toast. You have all the important parts to make a new one. You should be able to pick up a chest freezer for a reasonable amount of money such as http://www.samsclub.com/sams/ge-chest-freezer-5-cu-ft/124989.ip and then you can buy something like this http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-A19AAT-2C-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0002EAL58 and set the temp to whatever you want This is going to be by far your cheapest solution if you remember to drill your holes in the lid and nowhere else (coolant lines don't run in the lid.) I have the same freezer and I can tell you it will fit 3 of those 5 gal pop kegs that it sounds like you're using. plus space for your CO2 source as long as the bottle isn't too big. Doing this setup might be a bit more energy efficient as well seeing you're using an external control on a better pump that gets cooler faster and has just as good if not better insulating than normal fridge style keggerators...
You can look at my recent post to see how mine is coming. I am doing it with a new 7.1 igloo that I got from best buy for about $200 tax included. I bought a 3 tap system from kegconnection with a dual regulator and all stainless hardware and perlicks. That came to about $370, which is a lot BUT everyone recommends it, and if you're going to fucking do it, you might as well fucking do it right.
I probably spent close to $100 on materials for the collar, BUT this is my first real project and I didnt have a lot of tools/screws/misc stuff around to put that together so about $30 of that would go there.
I got a temp controller on amazon for $16 and an extention cord at home depot for ~$10, and have some leftover electrical accessories from my previous TC build so YMMV there.
I bought these dehumidifiers on amazon for $32
I bought two converted ball lock kegs from cornykeg.com for $100 with shipping and it was a breeze to clean them even thought they said they would be cleaned already.
I then got a 10lb steel air tank from adventures in homebrewing for $60 which I thought was a steal (steel hehe).
So this puts me close to $900. Which is $300 less than a very DIY-spirited blog post like this says it will cost. Sure I havent bought the last two kegs, but I then would still be $200 short of it.
There are some suggestions by the other guys in here that will save you money, and I'd say that my attempt is a little bit of combining both.
Hope I was some help!
You're going to have a hell of a time keeping the hole round with a dremel. If you don't have a drill press available, hand sand it with some coarse (80 grit or coarser) sandpaper, it'll take a while, but it's much easier to control. Another option is to drill it out with a drill press, clamps and a forstner bit; just have to be sure it's clamped down well and you have it perfectly centered before you start drilling. Easy way to do it is to start with a step drill bit, knock down the top lip to the size you want and drop the forstner bit into the recess at the top before you hog the rest out with the forstner.
I wouldn't hit them with the AB until 2 weeks and even then I would start very low mix rate. I just popped 10 CaliConnect Blackwaters, fed at 2 weeks 450 PPM of HG COCO AB and had 3 take off, 3 burn, and 3 go decent. One was a tard, but anyways... Point is unless you know the strin you won't know how it can take it at such a young age.
Oakton pH Tester EcoTestr pH 2 $56.96
I had this one and it worked great, still have it, but if you're in this for the long haul and want to spend wisely I would save for this one...
Hanna Instruments HI 98129 pH/Conductivity/TDS and Temperature Tester
This will give you the PPM readings you need for learning your plants nutrient limits during the cycle. Although you will get an EC reading from the mix rates on your feed chart, and can mix accordingly, at this point you don't know the nurtrient content of your tap so whatever you add is on top of what's in the tap, and that can be dangerous in beginning development.
Although some recommend feeding in Hydro and Coco early in development, I don't feel it's necessary unless you're using Reverse Osmosis water, which is stripped of nearly all mineral content.
At early stage it's better to play safe if you don't know the strain because a burn at 2 weeks will slow you 1-2 weeks where as if you creep up nutrients later and find burn, the plant and root system will be large enough to counteract and limit the damage.
Edit: looking again at the pics i'm pretty certain they are suffering a bit of over-watering by the purple of the stems and yellowing of lower leaves. I'd hold off on watering for 3 days minimum, and not hit it again until you see a difference in the seedlings.
the ph pen i use is a bluelab although ive used an oakton both are good. You'll want calibration solution for it as well.
other gadgets? I like to use a paint stirrer on a portable drill to mix ferts. a couple of quality spray bottles and a pump sprayer is nice to have on hand.
Treat for common pests systemically don't wait for that oh shit moment. I treat all my young healthy plants (before they go into bud) with a combination of OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) approved products: Azamax (neem extract for mites),Serenade (powdery mildew and mold) and Monterey Garden Spray (leaf miners and budworms). I use each of these at least once each, often if you wait to treat until you notice problems, it's too late to get optimum results.
Hey, my birthday is coming up in a couple of weeks and I was trying to think of something to ask for when a 3D printer crossed my mind. I've always thought they were pretty cool and I have a bunch of ideas for stupid little stuff to print out.
The only issue is that I know absolutely nothing about them and what I should be looking for in one or even if it's worth it for me to get one anyway. I don't mind having to put one together myself since it looks like that's the case with a lot of them after a quick Amazon search (very precise, I know).
My budget is under $300 and I'm in the US. I did find this one and it looks like it's pretty deece but want the experts to give me an educated opinion on it. [It's this one right here](https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Printer-Upgrade-Certified/dp/B07GYRQVYV?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_6066127011_1&pf_rd_p=471a90b9-8a34-5dd9-a6f0-17598d2f0fae&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=6066127011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=P83BAX28P3Y3BW4VJ6YZ&pf_rd_r=P83BAX28P3Y3BW4VJ6YZ&pf_rd_p=471a90b9-8a34-5dd9-a6f0-17598d2f0fae)
I just plan on using it to print out cool stuff others post online but may take a crack on designing my own stuff eventually. Nothing too big or fancy. Like I said before, I know what 3D printers are but that's about it, lol. I'm just hoping someone here can point me in the right direction.
If that's the case might I recommend a fermentation chamber? It's not going to fit a conical fermenter but I can easily put 3, 6.5 gallon, carboys in there.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/diy-fermentation-chamber.html
The Inkbird is usually on sale for about $30 on Amazon. Follow http://homebrewfinds.com to get one on the cheap!
I built mine using an STC1000, but I had to go to Radio Shack and grab a project box to make it look pretty.
For the heating unit, I purchased a $12 mini heater from Amazon and also installed a 12V fan that is on 24/7. Eventually I tossed a unit to help with moisture in there as well. I can't remember the name of it...found it on Homebrewfinds.
I'd run outside to take photos of my build but it's raining something hard right now ;(
Looking to buy my own printer for whatever comes my way. I like to 3d print random stuff I make or things i find online from moving parts to figures. Was looking around amazon and saw this [Comgrow Creality Ender 3](Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XxgODbQCRC3R1) but also found [this](Comgrow Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer with Removable Build Surface Plate and UL Certified Power Supply 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GzgODbTQ6ZNAJ) which looks identical for a higher price. I don't see a difference. My budget would be around 300 to 400ish. I'm looking for one that'll either be enclosed or be easy enough to enclose since I'll be in a college dorm, so I don't want my roomate to be bothered by the smell if left alone. Any wireless features would be neat, but I'm fine with plugging my laptop and leaving it there. The more safety features or safer in general it is, the better.
My time to shine! I have helped build two kegerators. The first one uses a small chest freezer and holds up to four 5-gallon kegs. We use this one for our homebrews at the house, and simply open the lid to use a cheap picnic tap to dispense the beer.
The second kegerator was a bigger undertaking. This one uses a massive chest freezer (capable of holding 4 full-size kegs and a slim keg simultaneously) and the same type of Temperature Regulator. The main difference is that instead of opening the lid to retrieve beer, we have beer lines leading to a tap wall and chalkboard. How does one get the lines out of the airtight appliance? We had heard a ^(cosmically?) funny story of some chump trying to drill through a wall of his freezer; he pierced a coil and ruined the whole thing.. We wanted to avoid something like that. Although there are no coils in the lid of the freezer, we decided on the method that follows:
Remove the lid from the appliance entirely. Make a rectangular frame of 2x4s the exact size of the top of your chest freezer. Use caulk to get a tight seal on your joints. Drill holes for your beer lines through the wood, rather than through the appliance, and put the freezer lid back on top of your wooden frame. The weight of the lid, in combination with the rubber grommet, should keep your fridge operating efficiently. If you have problems with cool air leaking out, try using big velcro strips to hold the lid on tighter. It seems pretty efficient to me, since one only needs to open the unit to replace a keg.
Best of luck! Pictures when I have them
edit: to have multiple kegs at once off the same Co2 tank requires a "splitter" to divert the gas from 1 to any number of kegs
I put together my own curing chamber after falling into the rabbit hole of this subreddit. In total it cost me about $175.
Materials:
Temp Controller
Humidity Controller This humidity controller is much cheaper than other options I saw, you will have to wire it yourself, but it works great!
Ultrasonic Humidifier, I got one for $35 on Amazon.
Humidity Monitor
I simply browsed Craigslist for a suitable full size fridge, and managed to get one for $40. This is the one I got
Let me know if you have any questions Id be happy to help!
I just put o-rings on my alphanumerics on MX Clears and I'm enjoying it. It does actually make what I already feel is a quiet keyboard quieter, which was some of my goal. I also feel like it somehow made my typing a little more accurate, but that's likely just in my head. It definitely changed the way the keys feel a little bit, they have a bit of a "tighter" feel for lack of a better word (I'm sure there's someone more fluent in keyboard that can better attest to o-rings on Clears). Personally, I like the change a lot as I almost feel like it makes the keys heavier and the presses more defined. I might change my mind and go without; I've only been using them for 2 days so far.
For anyone considering, honestly, pick some up for $2 with Prime shipping and just try it out for a bit. Worst case scenario you're out of $2 and then you have a vehement negative opinion that you can later share in threads like this, woo!
Budget: $100-$300
Country: US
Kit: Sure, experienced with electronics and soldering
Uses: looking to print mechanical keyboard parts (cases, keycaps, etc) and anything else I might need to print parts for.
I'm currently looking at a few different printers and most are from Creality. The Ender 3 and Ender 3 pro specifically are what I'm going for. What's the best place to actually buy one though? There's a ton of different sites with different prices and it's pretty overwhelming.
There's the one from eBay supposedly direct from the seller for $237
Amazon from Comgrow (?) for $279
And straight from Creality (I think) for $259
I'm leaning towards buying directly from the seller because I've read some things about the warranty not being fulfilled directly from creality if you buy from another source.
Other ones I'm looking at are the da Vinci 1.0 pro, regular Ender 3, or any other really. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hello all, just found this subreddit for the first time tonight!
Looking to order my first 3d printer.
I’m in the USA.
I can build a kit.
Honestly it will just be used to play around and make small prototype like parts.
Budget is around $300+-
I think I’ve narrowed it down to these two:
Creality Ender 3 Pro
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GYRQVYV/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Or
The AnyCubic Mega S
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07J9QGP7S/ref=sspa_mb_hqp_detail_mobile_aax_0?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1A5FQE7R5RISB
Any thoughts on the two of these for a newb.
I’m a tinkerer, and machinist, right now I own a Shapeoko CNC router, but have programmed and created many things over the years.
I appreciate the help!
I’d like to order tonight!
I was originally going to buy an ender 3 as my first 3d printer. I have zero experience but after lurking here a bit I thought I knew what to buy. However amazon currently has some good deals on some of these printers. so my options are now:
Ender 3: $229.99
Monoprice Maker Select v2: 239.99
Ender 3 pro : $259.99
Monosprice Maker Select Plus: $289.99
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I'm sort of leaning toward the Maker Select v2. But having no experience I'm hoping you guys will know better. I don't think building an Ender kit would be an issue, but for my first one I think Monoprices may be easier. I'm mostly looking to start with some minis and maybe randon little knick-knack type things. Although I think this may be something I get really into down the line, so as long as they're versatile I will probably build anything and everything I can :-p
Hello, reddit,
I think I can break a world record for the... wait for it... loudest pop of the lips. I can create an extremely loud pop with my lips, but I'm sure I need a calibrated, official way to measure that. I don't really know much about the technology of audio, so here's where I ended up. Would a cheap decibel meter record a short instance of sound like that, or would I need something else?
Would a product like THIS help to get the WR for loudest pop of the lips: https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products%C3%82-Decibel-Reader-Battery/dp/B00ECCZWWI
Thanks, sound people.
Hotend replacement:
I replaced the stock hotend/PTFE tube setup with an all-metal Micro Swiss hotend ($50):Amazon link to the Micro Swiss all-metal hotend kit: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bed leveling:
Frame Stabilization:
I printed the parts, and purchased the hardware at Home Depot for the Z-brace mod, which stabilized the printer frame:Thingiverse link for Z-brace mod for I3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631(note the original Thingiverse link in comments, which is required for the other Z-brace parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948)
Cooling:
I printed a Dii Cooler in PETG and replaced the stock cooler with one of those 24V "squirrel cage" fans, which provided much better cooling for all sides of my prints. Before that it really only cooled the front of prints, leaving the sides and especially the rear of prints looking pretty bad.Thingiverse link for Dii Cooler for i3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471
Looking for a full-size with MX Browns for general use plus gaming (USA), and the following are all pluses: Mac layout, white LED, detachable cord, simple aesthetics, and "floating keys" like Varmilo (definitely not all hard requirements except full size and Browns).
Current plan is WASD Code (has everything except floating keys, for 150 on Amazon or less if I can wait for MassDrop) with these O-rings (look equivalent to regular red ones), plus Vortex doubleshot PBT+POM backlit white keycaps thick OEM height ones that apparently look great on specifically the Code (plus they match my white Corsair 600T hackintosh case).
Any ideas? Decent cheaper alternatives I hadn't considered? Concerns I should be aware of with this setup? This Ducky One looks like a decent cheaper board at 120 with Browns and white LED, but the availability is listed only as preorder, which sounds to me like “unavailable for who knows how long”.
Apologies for my noobiness, and happy holidays!
(Note in case the Reddit redesign doesn't make it clear: there are three pics in the gallery.)
I bought my character from HeroForge and printed him in a wood/PLA filament. I'm really happy with the results in person. The photos are big enough that it really highlights the layers and any small color differences. (And also some pieces of fluff from when I was cleaning the stain off of him that I removed after seeing the pics.) In real life, the layer lines are not very visible, and look more like wood grain where they can be seen.
I printed in 0.1 mm layers, with the tree root-looking supports from Meshmixer. I then stained him with an Olympic color called Royal Mahogany. I just dipped him in and then wiped him off pretty much right away - previous tests had shown that leaving the stain on for 10 minutes didn't really look any different. Happy to add other details if desired.
I was thinking of getting one of these http://amzn.com/B00ECCZWWI and doing my best to seal the headphone cups around it and figure out what a safe listening volume sounds like while using something like this as a guide http://www.dangerousdecibels.org/education/information-center/decibel-exposure-time-guidelines/
I am cautious about my hearing at times because I have 15-30% hearing loss in my left year (varies with frequency) and it was quite debilitating when it first happened. I can tilt the audio balance in my headphones to compensate somewhat but it's not even close to the same fidelity as my good ear. 15-30% doesn't sound like much but it's roughly the equivalent of putting a finger in your ear, go ahead try it, see what it's like to be me, lol. The most disturbing thing for me is that I can no longer determine the source of a sound around me. Since the hearing is uneven I can no longer unconsciously distinguish which ear is receiving a direct signal and which is receiving a delayed/decayed reflection and therefore have no idea what direction to look most of the time.
Best ear health tip I ever received was from my ear doctor, he recommended peroxide in the ear canal until it stops bubbling followed by white vinegar whenever my ears are feeling stuffy or a little sore to keep the ears clean and free from infection. I wish he had told me that 20 years ago before my eardrum got all scarred up from infections and caused the hearing loss.
If you buy even 5 30mL bottles a month of premium juice, just use that money at the start to BUILD A KIT. Don't buy one, they all have shit flavors that will turn you off to DIY. Almost all nicotine vendors sell diluted nicotine that you can just mix with flavors, but it's not a cost-efficient purchase. If you want to save money, buy 120mL of 100mg($19 at nudenicotine) nicotine and dilute it yourself. A gallon of VG is $14.49. Find a few recipes with good feedback here and order the flavors for them from bullcityvapor, gremlindiy, or ecigexpress. If you don't mind the extra work, and want to save a bit more, buy syringes instead of a scale, and clean and reuse the syringes.
The first thing you're going to find on the internet is this fetishism of sharpening chisels. The Youtube rabbit hole on sharpening is deep.
What I found, and you might find something else you like better, is actually fairly simple, easy, and low cost to setup. 1) Scary Sharp --which is just sharpening your tools on a flat surface (glass, marble, MDF, jointer or table saw feed table) and graduating levels of taped down sandpaper: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scary_sharp. The second thing that is wildly useful is a $12 sharpening guide: http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_1
There are kits for hundreds of dollars involving stones and guides and apparati and I've used some of my friends' stones and setups and they work --probably as well as Scary Sharp and a guide. But, $12 for a guide and a few dollars for sandpaper is low barrier to entry and works and is pretty fast. (The soles of hand planes may take a bit longer if you're planning to do those the same day.)
Good luck on whatever you choose.
Apera Instruments makes very very good ph pens. I’ve had mine for many months and I’ve calibrated it 2 times. I didn’t even need to calibrate it the 2nd time. I just wanted to see if it was off after a couple months, but it was still good! It’s still correctly calibrated right now, which has been another couple months since I did it last
I know some people use the cheap 15-20$ Orange and yellow ones amazon has with some pretty good results. I would personally spend a tad bit more and get one from Apera if you can.
Here’s the one I have: Apera ph20
Hello everyone, I am currently in the market for my first 3D printer, and was hoping to get some advice on what printer would best fit my needs. I would like to spend no more than 300 USD max, and I live in Wisconsin in the United States. I am willing to build a printer from a kit, and I have limited electronics experience (though I am very willing to learn and my brother has a lot more experience). With the printer I would like to print a variety of things, such as pieces for props I am making, a lightsaber, probably some miniatures for DnD, and any other stupid things I can think of and design. I don’t really have any extenuating circumstances. Currently I am looking at 3 different printers, all around the same price:
Monoprice Maker Select V2: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018GZBC3Y?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AwEAAAAAAAAAARPY
Anycubic Photon: https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Assembled-Innovation-Off-line-Printing/dp/B07TVW9HGH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=61744442371&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-4nuBRCnARIsAHwyuPr9qUkHk3c-bjztvPtoPCnQfwmJiur43IW5Sqo_gLb2kfWEBrmndEMaAusvEALw_wcB&hvadid=274732107337&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9018836&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1205846483522208665&hvtargid=kwd-409136528305&hydadcr=21036_9428322&keywords=anycubic+photon&qid=1573068757&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFZUVVYT0NERzhRTFImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTEwNDE5NjlRMUFTUlBNR1ZRNksmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDUzMDYwN1BBOEZWNFRKU01GVyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Ender 3: https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Printer-Upgrade-Certified/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?adgrpid=56791742355&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-4nuBRCnARIsAHwyuPpuBebDhMzsbSGWKX2y-Dq2wg37UXSEJqeqqEfB5I6zU-MDqdo4q8QaAiFfEALw_wcB&hvadid=274684426752&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9018836&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t3&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5031503050646445943&hvtargid=kwd-446200976551&hydadcr=14671_9484359&keywords=ender+3+3d+printer&qid=1573068855&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNlJNRVZTSEVBVkdHJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDY2NTcxMVlVNjFBVExFSTZWUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDIzODY4V1BDMkY5UUpZR0NMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I am open to other printers, these are just the ones that were on my radar, so feel free to suggest other options.
Thanks for the help and sorry for the long links!
For those interested, here's a pic of the inside.
Here's a list of my mods.
Wanhao i3 Duplicator v2.1 by way of Amazon.
I have two of them, easy to use and improve machine.
Here's a Facebook group dedicated to them.
If you get this printer, this is a highly recommended upgrade. It's a hardened steel nozzle and slotted cooling block kit. Very easy to install, improves holding a given temp in the hot end.
And here is a good deal on filament that's made in America, a grab bag of four rolls for $60, your choice on type.
Check out the sight glasses at Brew Hardware. I've purchased many items from Bobby, and have had good experiences.
Assuming a weldless application, you'll need a step bit for your drill. The one linked worked great for me. When drilling, use oil to cool the bit and go SLOW or you'll harden the steel.
Bobby's install/calibration videos can be found here and here.
Good luck!
Excellent information, thank you very much. Do you think it would be safe to power that bed with this power supply? It's 24V 15A 360W which I guess doesn't really leave a lot of headroom. Alternatively this one is 24V 20A 500W which I guess may be the better choice, albeit possibly somewhat overkill.
Also, would the typical MOSFET Board just be a drop in replacement for the SSR as outlined in the wiring guide? Spauda commented above and said to just wire the Heated Bed and 24V PSU through the DC/DC SSR as shown, although I am on the fence since I don't really know the difference (other than what you and others have pointed out about the SSR being from China).
Thanks again for all of the help, electrical questions make my head spin.
Basic Cura guide for simple problems-https://ultimaker.com/download/170/Cura_User-Manual_v1.0.pdf
Sli3r manuel (I know you are using cura but the advanced settings are adusting the same things and some of the different settings can get confusing this can explain each setting)-http://manual.slic3r.org/
Your machine has a max temp of 230C and I print my wood filament (http://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-1-75mm-3D-Printer-Filament/dp/B01092XXD4) at about 205-210C so you are good.
As for all the speeds you have to experiment to see what is right for your printer but I would start slow and work up. I agree 60mm/s is a good starting point. Use the suggested temps for the filamnet as a baseline and work from there. I believe the Maker Select is almost identical to the Wanhao Duplicator i3 so these articles might help you also-http://3dprinterbrain.info/pmwiki.php/DupI3/SlicerSettings
After you start printing use this to tune and troubleshoot, it is very good-https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
Above everything, you are going to fail some prints and you are probably going to troubleshoot, but when you have a problem just come back and we help you troubleshoot.
I see a lot of people mentioning the Hydrofarm but I gotta say, if you want the most bang for your buck, pick up one of these. I have these for my rack and it is great, works like a champ. And it's only $16!
I recently went through exactly this same situation. I was ready to upgrade to a microswiss all-metal hotend and the catastrophic failure of the print leaving gunk all over my heater block forced the issue. In my case, I opted to replace everything I could including the thermistor and heating element. They are both very inexpensive and you should have a spare laying around anyway in case you need one in a hurry. So...how to clean your heating block...
Fire. Seriously. I used a combination of blowtorch and solvent to remove all the gunk (and mine was a LOT worse than yours...it basically encapsulated one entire end of my heater block, entombing the thermistor, heater and associated wiring).
I used your typical propane torch, holding my heater block in a vise or vise grips. I'd heat it up then quickly wipe away the melted PLA with a clean cloth. Heat, repeat. Then I'd soak the whole thing in some solvent (acetone, MEK, etc). Repeat until clean. Pay careful attention to the tiny setscrew that holds the heater in place...work it free with a hex wrench while it is hot...chances are you got some PLA stuck on there, too. Obviously be super careful when you do this. Ventilation, fire-extinguisher handy, your mom on speed-dial.
When you replace the thermistor and heating element you'll need to do some soldering. This is pretty unavoidable. Those elements come with very long wires attached to them and the Wanhao/MP print heat doesn't need that length. Clip it short, make good solders and use heatshrink over your joints. For the thermistor I simply cut out the center section of the wire and spliced the connector back to the component at the length i needed.
Now, when you put it all back together you will have the option of re-wrapping the heater block with cotton and Kapton tape. People seem split on if this is necessary, but since I'd battled heat creep before I didn't want to introduce any more heat up the block...so I opted to do it. It's a bit tricky if you get the non-punched cotton strips like I did. Luckily I had hole punches handy to make the provision for the hotend and nozzle to get thru the insulation. If you don't have these tools (or don't quite know how to do it), i'd shop around for pre-punched sets.
good luck. Let me know if you need any more help.
here are the parts i used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071K8Z9KF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4KY6TR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076NW3GNH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I started with the Anycubic Photon. Aside from being fairly cheap, I found it pretty easy to use. I have, however, noticed a tendency for it to unlevel far more often then it claims. I level it every 2-3 prints, but the process only takes a couple minutes.
I also found this video enlightening and it inspired me to be sure I got a little bit of extra equipment.
Yeah, I use a keyboard with MX Browns at work and installed o-rings under the switches and it's pretty quiet. I bottom out when I type and even then, I'm pretty sure nobody around me is bothered by it.
For anyone wondering, these are the exact o-rings I bought. Under $2 and shipped with Prime, and they fit perfectly.
It's a 100-pack so I think you might have to buy 2 if you want to cover every key on a full-size keyboard (I used one set of 100 on 2 keyboards, just covering the letter+number+modifier+spacebar/return/backspace keys). But still, buying 2 sets of these is under $4.
As you said, loudness not only depends on the amp and headphone pairing, but also the individual track gain. It is safe to say that anything below the 12 o'clock position is safe for prolonged listening.
If you really need a rough estimate of how loud you are listening you will have to buy a dB meter and place it between the earcups while playing music
Haha sure thing, its a rather simple mod. All you need is a through hole fitting.
Basically, it allows you to create a pass through on the case where you can screw any type of G1/4 threaded fitting into it. For the plug, you can use any type of G1/4 stop fitting.
The best way to drill the hole is to use what is called a step bit. So you drill a pilot hole with a standard 1/4" bit, and then you use this step bit to step up the size of the hole. If you are only going to be doing it for this build, I would recommend getting the link I provided as most of these bits go for $55 at your local hardware store.
All in all it's easy-peasy. Just be sure you know for sure where you want the port to be before you drill ;).
I based it on the Son of Fermentation Chiller plans but made modifications to the dimensions to allow it to fit two carboys. Originally I just had a cheap thermostat from Home Depot and only cooling, but had some issues in the winter months with the beer getting too cold at night and the yeast dropping out before it reached the targeted FG. So eventually I upgraded the temp controller to the STC 1000 which does both heating and cooling and picked up a 4" duct fan, some 4" duct, foil tape, and cut up an old brew belt I had laying around. I would highly recommend building one if you have the resources. It's probably the single biggest improvement to my brewing process I've ever made.
Nice job for a first build. I've got 2 questions and a comment.
First the comment because I'm a pedant :P Since you are using a freezer for this it is actually a keezer and not a kegerator. But that's all semantics really.
Now for the questions. First off, how are you loading the kegs? I'm assuming that you've left the hinges in tact and you just lift the top like normal.
Second question. How are you regulating temperature inside the chest freezer? If you are using the freezer's thermostat I might recommend switching that out for a better temperature controler such as the STC-1000 This is what most folks use for their kegerator/keezer builds from the /r/Homebrewing community.
Nice work none-the-less.
Did you mean to post a picture of the saw?
A rubber mallet is no good for chopping mortises (all of the energy is lost to recoil). You'll want to get a wooden chisel mallet or a dead blow mallet.
You will have to sharpen your chisels. There are different methods to sharpen a chisel. You won't ever find a consensus on which way is best. If you want a cheap way to start, google "scary sharp". You'll use sandpaper and a flat surface like a piece of granite or plate glass. It works just as well as any other method, but it's not a long term solution. I use diamond whetstones and a leather strop with buffing compound to sharpen. You can buy a jig (like this one https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468777145&amp;sr=8-1) to help you sharpen the chisel or freehand sharpen. You may want to buy a protractor gauge to check your angle, which should be around 30 degrees. You can find many Youtube tutorials on this. Paul Sellers is a popular teacher of freehand chisel sharpening.
The Monoprice maker select v2(.1?) Is a little over $300 on Amazon, but other than that, it fits all of your other needs. It uses standard metric screws and such, so fixing and modding the printer is easy. It's also has a respectable build volume of 200mm^2 and a height of 180mm, which is nice to have. It comes mostly assembled: you just need to use 4 included screws to attatch the gantry to the base and 2 more to attach the filament holder. It took me no time at all to start a test print. I'm coming up on six months with my printer now, and it hasn't given out on me once. For the best prints, you'll want to do some mods, but only the absolutely necessary MOSFET mod requires non-printed hardware that isn't just screws and nuts (or the standard M8 threaded rod used in AzzA's Z-brace mod).
Tl;dr: Monoprice Maker Select v2 on Amazon, order a MOSFET to go with it, 10/10 IGN
Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.
I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:
Printed upgrades:
There is one small error in the assembly videos: The bed mounting plate (the H-shaped thing) is mounted upside down in the video. The bar that goes across the axes and connects both outer plates should be under the plates, not above as in the assembly videos.
I've used some Fowler calipers at work and... I will never purchase a pair for myself. They're almost always inaccurate, I have to constantly zero them, even after calibration.. just.. ugh.
It's true that Mitutoyo tools are expensive, but part of that price is longevity. I've had the same Mitutoyo Mic for 2 years now and it works just as well as the day I got it. I've had other brands that only worked well for 4-6 months of regular use, and it just isn't worth the hassle.
Honestly, though, with a .002 tolerance (Which compared to my tolerances at work, that's massive), you could get away with an eyegaging or something similar. I used These for about 8 months when I was starting out and they were adequate.
Response to your question: I think delving into belgian beers would provide a ton of room for experiment and they are really great summer beers in my opinion. Also, maybe doing some spice/nut additions to normal beers. Maybe just go through all the ale styles and pick out something that you would normally never make. I did that and ended up brewing a dortmunder lager which is pretty tasty but not my normal go to.
Question on your question: Can you not lager because of lack of equipment or you just have no interest in it? If you have the space and few extra dollars, you can get into lager for pretty cheap. Get on craigslist and find a big enough dorm fridge or even find a fridge that someone is getting rid of because they've upgraded. Ask around and you'll probably find something for $50 or less easily. Then go get yourself a temp controller for less than $20 (you can also find them on ebay). Follow this build guide and wiring guide along with a box of some sort. Less than $100 spent easily.
In that size tent I'd probably stick with 3 gal. I'm getting ready to do my first autos in a 4'x2' and I'm probably only going to do 2 plants in 5 gal. Because when I did that with photoperiods (vegged 45 days) with lst and scroging my tent was absolutely full. Feel like 3 autos would get too big for the tent. May take a couple of clones in case turns out I have extra room.
You also didn't specify what, I'm assuming soil, but would help with nute recommendation.
Highly suggest getting recharge, even if just a couple cheap sample packs, it helps so much.
Also skip the $10 PH pens. Get PH up and down with the test kit. And get one like this Apera Instruments PH20 or the $80 Blue labs if you want to splurge.
Not sure if these are technically meant for a keyboard, and you won't be able to tell someone the exact size rating (in terms of the Cherry MX o-ring thicknesses from the pic I linked) but they're pretty cheap, there are more than enough for a full size keyboard, and they're what I used on my BW Ultimate: Amazon Link.
You need a keycap puller (or a way to get keycaps off) if you don't have one, but those are pretty cheap and easy to find.
With a lab-style ph meter, like this one or this one. I use the oakton because it is temperature corrected, whereas other meters require you test a solution at a specific temperature for an accurate reading. You use them to test the runoff water when you water the plants. You measure the PH of the water you put into the pot, and see how much it changes when it comes out, which will give you an idea about the PH level of your soil. For instance, if I measured my water to be 7.0 going in, and found it to be 5.8 coming out, I would know my soil is at least 5.8 on the ph scale or lower. However, I find that just measuring the PH of what I put in, the runoff doesn't matter so much, if the soil is properly prepared. I would go on, but I'll stop myself here for the sake a brevity; there's plenty to learn if you seek the information.
Having said that, I will say there are some soil probe type meters that work well, but you have to calibrate it, and care for and store the electrode properly, which can get difficult because the electrodes are often very long and don't have a cap/case to hold storage solution. Though, it does require you mix water with your soil for the electrode to get a proper reading, so really testing the runoff is the same as (properly) using a soil probe, but the lab meters will be more accurate, easier to use, calibrate, store, and care for properly.
edit: oh yeah, PH indicator drops can also be used, but they are not nearly as accurate or reliable, and can sometimes be difficult to read since your runoff solution will not be perfectly clear.
If it could be used everyone here would use one and save that money. I don't like spending $25 on a fan speed controller either but it needs to be done. The $20 one sucks by the way, it makes your fan hum, get the active air brand it runs quieter or if you really want the quietest get a variac. But that's more money and you're looking to spend less lol. I can help you spend more but not less.
Nic river is cheap, haven't used it but have heard only good things. I use essential depot, if you buy direct from them you can get pretty good discounts on a couple gallons.
I use Essential Depot on Amazon they are top notch. Super cheap. Ship crazy fast. I only found it one time at Wal-Mart and used a small bottle. Aslong as the proper grades ans safety checks are on the bottle you'll be fine!! Hope that helps.
Set it up and use the existing hotend to print out a z-brace kit, I printed for days without it but it really helps. This will also help you understand and appreciate the difference when you upgrade the hotend :) People run into the connector problem when heating the bed up for ABS and other higher-temp filaments, I have had no issue running PLA. I also never leave the house when it's running, but that's a general distrust of robots thing. Now, with z-braces, allmetal hotend, and a pei sheet, I have had awesome prints every time.
If I were in your position, I would definitely shoot for a big ticket item such as the sawstop PCS (36" T-glide) with 1.75hp motor. That will eat up your entire budget (plus $219 more). I cannot imagine a hobbyist woodworker who would not be happy with it.
OR you can do lots of little stuff: (take out the things he may already have)
Sharpening: this this this this and this
Chisels: here
Japanese saw: this and this
Caliper: here
Exceptional quality hand plane set every woodworker would love to have if they don't have it already: here. Conversely, you can get the Lie Nielsen 60-1/2 block plane and get the #4 and #5 from Lee Valley (I prefer their version).
If he doesn't have a planer, this is a great one: here
As for festool products, I would highly recommend the Rotex 150 with Dust collector combination
I'm sure i'm missing a couple of stuff here and there but I hope the list helps you get started.
Get mechanical grade alcohol, 99%, get it in the pressurized spray can, and regular bottle. Disassemble the GPU and get any parts that got coolant on them out of the system.
Get a clean plastic container that can fit the parts you've gotten wet. Put the alcohol in there from the non pressurized n bottle. Place parts in bath of alcohol, use the pressurized alcohol and qtips to clean your parts. Once done, let dry for at least 48 hours in front of a fan.
I've recovered an entire x99 system this way. Good luck.
Edit
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/
Spray
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8PL1Q
well i just got out in the kitchen and experimented. I took ingredients that i thought sounded good together but i took into consideration the pH of things. Thats where vinegar comes in. in order to be shelf stable it has to have a pH of 3.9 or below (as per FDA regulations).
A very simple hot sauce would be Peaches, yellow ghosts, fataliis, and pineapple with some cider vinegar and agave nectar. or you can go the savory route with fresh smoked ghost peppers, pears, white vinegar, garlic, and a touch of salt.
to find the pH you can either use litmus paper or a good pH pen like this
and check this out: http://thehotpepper.com/topic/29501-making-hot-sauce-101/
Story time... I've had this Filco with blues for awhile and never done anything to it. A few months ago I picked up a CODE with clears and my poor Filco sat abandoned and unloved. Recently, Massdrop did a group buy for Ducky PBT caps and I decided it was time to breathe some new life back into my Filco. I wanted to bring it back to work so I also took the opportunity to install some o-ring dampeners (Amazon, non-referral).
I love the keycaps, they feel great -- I'm a big fan of the texture. The o-rings make a big difference for me because I always bottom out. The one's I ordered from Amazon are a hybrid of the two offered by WASD because I wanted a harder ring with less travel reduction. If you're wishing your blues were a little quieter these are great o-rings.
Aside from the recommendation to shuck the drives (I'd transfer data off them one at a time before doing so), you could just put a box fan in front of all of them and run it on low. Or, any smaller "desktop" fan you might find in a local store or online. Anything like that should provide sufficient airflow to keep them cool enough as long as it's right in front of them.
It would follow the KISS principle, and it would only cost ~$15-ish
Oh, and if you want to be able to smoothly dial the speed of a box fan down to any arbitrary point (if "low" is still louder/faster than you want, which has sometimes been the case for me in the past), then what you want is a variac transformer between the box fan and the outlet. A little pricey to pair with a cheap box fan, I know, but I use that with one and it's quite nice since the box fan moves air while being almost totally silent, with no coil whine. You could do the same with a smaller turbine-style fan if you wanted something smaller.
Hi All!
Just ran into this while doing a search. I got a v2.1 for Xmas as well.
Have fought many battles, won't go into it here, you'd be reading for hours, LOL!
But I did install the MOSFET upgrade, as well as installing a 300W power supply. One's a safety issue, the other is so I can safely run a higher temp hotend with elevated bed temps. The 200W unit they used is marginal at best (trust me, I'm an Electronics Tech for 47 years...).
Here's the MOSFET board I used:
BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer (About $11)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and the Power Supply: eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project ($18 - $20, varies)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I also got some cork sheets to put under the hot bed at Michael's called ArtWall Cork Tiles 12:x 12" - used the App and got 40% off cost less then $5! I used some 3M adhesive (468MP) strips stolen from a sheet I got when I bought a Gizmodorks PEI sheet I put on a glass plate stolen from an old Canon scanner that was toast. :-) Recycling ...LOL! Nice thing was it's DEAD flat, and FREE!
Well that's all for now. Any Questions will be answered next time I drop by Reddit (which is pretty infrequently, sorry!).
PuterPro
It's pretty easy to clean this.
ESD circuit board brushes: http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Handle-Circuit-Static-Brushes/dp/B00BM38YPW
99.95% Alcohol: http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/
Distilled Water can be used as well, just give it a few days to dry out.
Dip the brushes in the alcohol, don't just add the alcohol to the board, you'll end up using too much.
Make sure to wait an hour or so to guarantee that its all evaporated.
I bought a buck Bros from HF for $10 and it actually works pretty good after flattening and sharpening. On the same day I went to a few pawn shops and got a No.4 and a 78 for $30 each. I recently got a 45 off of ebay for $45 and 12 cutters off of craigslist for $35. I suggest the re conditioning route. You need to be able to take it apart and put it back together in order to really see how it works. IMO.
I am a newb too but if you are going to get into this hobby with hand tools you are going to have to learn to hone and sharpen your chisels and irons. Most planes and chisels are not sharpened and or flattened. I have Wood River chisels (Wood Craft) and they are pretty flat but sharp, not at all.
I suggest getting a cheap honing guide off of amazon. I got this one. http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398874279&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=honing+guide and one of these to verify your angle. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-Plastic-Protractor-Angle-Finder-2791/202035328
As for sharpening I am doing the "Scary Sharp" Method and it works well. You can either DIY it or you can buy the pre made kit from Rockler.
Now that I’m home and have a minute to type, here’s how I made it:
-I used a step drill bit to cut two 3/4” holes in the mason jar lid. I kept the lid on the jar while drilling, held the jar with one hand and the drill with the other and it worked just fine (I marked the holes with a sharpie before drilling)
-I put in one hookah hose grommet and one “downstem grommet” (I get these from my local ace hardware. You just ask for a rubber grommet with an inner diameter of 1/2”, an outer diameter of 31/32”, and a 3/4” groove, I think the stock number is 55059) in the holes I drilled
-downstem time. I get them from a local smokeshop and I use just regular ol’ glass on glass downstems that work with a 14mm bowl. Before you fit it into the grommet, lube them both up with whatever cooking oil you have on hand (I use coconut oil). Getting the downstem in is the trickiest and scariest part to me but it goes relatively easy if you coat it in oil first
-all set, just put in a 14mm bowl in the downstem and a regular hookah hose in the hookah grommet and you’re good to go
Eta link for hookah grommet
I got this keyboard for $50 after rebate, I really enjoy it (my first mechanical). Whenever I go to my college library, I always contemplate bringing the keyboard in to type on the computers because their rubber domed keys feel like I'm trying to type on a keyboard made of Play-Doh. Unresponsive, slow, and generally unpleasant to use.
A word of advice for someone who is thinking about getting a mechanical keyboard, even if the switches don't make much sound, the keys bottoming out / rebounding tend to be quite loud. This is why I invested in some rubber o-rings which limited the sound the keyboard makes when bottoming out. The ones from amazon are similar to the ones that WASDkeyboards sells for $18 (I assume its comparable to the 50A-R). They do influence the feel of the keyboard, but I think the noise reduction is worth it.
Overall, if you've been looking for a good keyboard to get for a new gaming computer, or if you're planning on upgrading to a mechanical keyboard, I would definitely suggest this (even though it is $10 more than what I paid for it).
Edit: If you are new to mechanical keyboards, keep in mind that they are generally taller than dome keyboards (base is roughly 3/4 inch tall). Also, this keyboard isn't fully back-lit if you were looking for a keyboard which is, I advise you look elsewhere.
congrats OP! I really enjoyed mine but just had too many amps and ended up selling it.
Grab a variac for some really great vintage chunk (very very different than the actual variac mode on the amp BTW)
This one I made using the variac mode on the amp but an actual variac will soften/loosen everything even more.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ea9KKuA_y0
I got this one
https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS
pair of calipers. pretty cheap on amazon and should be a standard tool for 3d printing.
here is a pair for $13 shipped
https://www.amazon.com/SE-784EC-Digital-Caliper-Metric/dp/B003MA08VQ
personally I would go with something better.
These are well reviews and liked and come with a case
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/
$40
Hello there, I recently started growing and purchased all new items. The fan you chose simply won't work. You will be very disappointed in the performance. I was going to use that fan as an inflow booster with a pre-filter. I quickly returned it because it just did not move enough air. The fan could not create positive pressure in the tent. I then tried this fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7S46YZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495901534&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=4+inch+inline+fan&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41G0I96VBVL&amp;ref=plSrch
I ended up returning that one as well because it was advertised as 200cfm and it was not moving anywhere near the same air amount as the first fan I bought. I then broke down and bought the same fan I originally purchased as my outflow fan and filter. I bought just the fan for 56.00 as an inflow fan and put a pre-filter on it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7M6692/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495901249&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=4+inch+inline+fan+carbon+filter+combo&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51REkA1uNbL&amp;ref=plSrch
Buy
($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod
($1o)MOFSET
($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod
($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this
cheapwonderful machine($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods
($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods
($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts
(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.
($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod
($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)
($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.
Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.
Print
Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.
Belt tensioner- print x2
Z-brace
Shielded stop button
Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.
Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.
The following need to be printed in ABS:
M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.
CiiCooler
Glass bed Holder
Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.
Buy
($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler
($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic
($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”
($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.
($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments
($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.
($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.
($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.
($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.
($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock
Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.
Print
Spool holder
Pi Case
120mm fan cover
Fan grill
120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.
IKEA Lack filament guide
Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.
Buy
($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.
($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool
($9)Foam pads for feet
($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.
($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure
($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS
($15)Dimmable LED lights
($10)8mm LED light connectors
Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date
I've only used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 but had some great results.
Here's some of my wood pla projects. The first two images are sanded and stained, the final is fresh off the printer with some fuckups I was troubleshooting. https://imgur.com/a/DdEEXzZ
OK, so you can add any sugary juice that isn't super acidic. If you do want to use a very acidic juice (like lemon or orange) you will need to do something to take it down a notch.
During fermentation, the pH you should shoot for is 3.7 to 4.0, otherwise you risk the yeast activity ending up reduced.
You can either get a pH test kit, but make sure it checks for pH in this range, most pool ones do a different range. Soil or hydro kits should probably be ok.
I bought THIS one and am very happy with it. It was a little more money, but it's not by any stretch expensive.
The Beats Solo 2 are excellent starter headphones. So much better than what I started this journey with. I was surprised that the packaging of the Beats was that high quality. Must be Apple's influence.
Do yourself a favor and don't listen too loud! I made that mistake, and now I have some annoying tinnitus, which is constant high pitched ringing in my ears. You can use a dB meter to measure the volume, just put the mic end into the headphone's cup and try to seal the cup with your hand or a rag. Keep it around 80dB or lower and you're good to go.
I'm also hoping it's heating OR cooling (two outlets) to be controller by one controller ... otherwise that's an odd design. The seller should be able to clear it up. My guess is they can either build them with a dual stage Celsius controller or a single stage Fahrenheit controller.
In terms of advantages for the STC-1000+, you have a few advantages. Main thing is stepped fermentation control - so, say, 50 F for three days, ramp to 63 over twelve hours, hold at 63 for 5 days, and then drop to 35 over two days (a lager profile I just made up). Head over to HBT and look at alphaomega's thread on the STC-1000+. For a more condensed version, just keep in mind that the Blackbox is run by the STC-1000+ (but I can't tell you which version).
Another option would be to buy the Celsius dual stage controller, and ship it to the guy who does Blackbox and have him flash it for a fee (assuming he still offers this). If you'd like to do it yourself, you need a bit of DIY interest (usually common in homebrewers) and an arduino/jumper cables. Take a look at the guide for the STC-1000+ on github to get an idea of what's involved.
I have one of those fairly honing cheap guides-
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CFNCKS/
I am tempted to get the Veritas guide, but I really don't want to drop another $140 on stuff right now. The ability to do the cambered edges and easily add microbevels seems valuable, though, over what this cheap guide offers.
Typically you store planes either on their side or just make a little shelf with a lip at the back so that when you set it down the back of the plane is raised up a bit keeping the blade from contacting the shelf.
A simple honing guide, a combination stone, and a basic strop is all you really need to sharpen plane irons. You can use sandpaper instead of the stone if you are really on a budget, but a decent combo stone is worth having in the shop. You can spend hundreds of dollars on diamond stones, higher end waterstones, sharpening jigs, grinder wheels, etc, but with proper technique, a bit of practice, and about 10 minutes work improving the honing guide the 3 items above will get any plane iron or chisel razor sharp. Grinder is mostly used for lathe tools and to speed up major regrinding or damage repair in a wood shop.
Here's a video on how to properly sharpen a plane iron with the guide.
I like to apply paste wax to the sole and other exposed steel surfaces of my planes (and most other tools in the shop) to prevent rust. I like johnson's paste wax.
So creating this took a bit of practice and patience. Basically, I built the 3d model from scratch using a software called fusion 360. Once I got the model built I used Simplify 3d to get the printing parameters set (layer hight, print speed, nozzle/bed temp etc...)
You then send that file directly to the printer for printing. I’m using a JG Aurora A5s which is a relatively cheap intro printer. I loaded it up with some wood PLA filament (amazon link for reference: HATCHBOX 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm, 1.75 mm, 1 kg Spool, Wood https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01092XXD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3AulDbTCWTM9X).
I’m not sure exactly how this filament is made but it seems like a mixture of saw dust and plastic that functions almost exactly like the normal PLA plastic most 3d printers use.
Anyways, once the print is done. (This took about 4-5hrs) you can sand it down and polish out any imperfections the printer may have left. And also being wood, it will absorb any type of wood stain.
You can still see some layer lines but if I adjust the layer hight and put more effort into sanding, then those would be a lot less noticeable.
Hope this helps!
Whenever there's probable noise issues, I recommend being objective. When you're in love with the house, it may not seem "that bad" or "we'll get used to it" but then a year later you're half-insane with the noise.
Buy an SPL Meter and take actual measurements outside and inside the house, write the highest results down. At 60db, it's definitely intrusive. At 70db, you might have to ask your partner to repeat themselves from time to time over the noise. At 80db, it's absolutely annoying, like a running chainsaw. I'd recommend taking measurements at different times of the day, but I don't know if you'll get to do that with a house that you don't already own.
My humidity was around 40%, but it should've been higher, but was not because the majority of the mist gets sucked right out due to the fan being too powerful. After I got my fan and controller, I also took off the filter as there is no smell at the moment. Humidity is right around 55 rH lights on and 65-70 rH lights off. This is possible due to being able to set the fan very low. During flowering I'm going to put the filter back in and remove the humidifier altogether as I don't want to ruin my new filter again. Also, my ambient rH is around 30% which is fine for flowering. It will be higher than 30% inside the tent due to all the vegetation in there, so I might have to put in a dehumidifier.
I'm trying to follow a VPD chart (which you should also look into). Removing the humidifier can't come soon enough. Filling that stupid humidifier 2 to 3 times a day (one if them in the dark) is a pain in the ass.
The speed controllers that come with the fans are usually crappy and not good for the motor. They also won't let you adjust down past a certain threshold. I got a Variac 3 amp variable transformer. https://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS and a Vortex S600 fan (expensive option for a fan but any 6in inline fan will do.)
I hear ya on the paralysis. I was the same way. I bought what I thought was the perfect little set up, but ended up returning a bunch of things and buying more. You learn as you grow. Also, no problem with helping out. I'm somewhat of a noob still and love helping those who put in the time and research. :)
I've used these they are pretty good, you can get free 2 day shipping too if you have Amazon Prime. Currently out of stock at the moment though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/
Yep, wire in a new STC 1000 to the power circuit, run the probe in through a hole and forget about the existing thermostat in my opinion.
Realistically its amazing this machine still runs and freezes after 65 years. This STC1000 will allow you to wire it to AC voltage, and the power of the fridge to the STC1000, it will turn the fridge power on or off based on a set point decided by that temperature probe. Best bet would be wire it all up, attach the STC1000 to the back externally, and place the probe inside a small tube of water mounted internally.
Look up STC1000 fridge mods, there are guides for beer fermentation chambers all over google that perform almost exactly what you'll be doing.
http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-All-purpose-Temperature-Controller-STC-1000/dp/B00862G3TQ
First off, in order to use a pH meter, you must calibrate it every. single. time. Or at least once a week. They're notorious for drifting even when stored correctly. You will need 4.0 and 7.0 calibration solutions, they're sold as powder or in liquid form. You should also have probe cleaning and probe storage solution. Contact lens solution (not hydrogen peroxide stuff) can work as probe cleaning solution in this context, as it works well on organics in a gentle way.
Unfortunately the $10 specials aren't really that great, and you won't get really repeatable results until you hit about the $35-$50 price point. At this price point they should start to have replaceable probes. e.g.: this or this . I'm pretty sure /u/chino_brews knows the specific generic design name of the 2nd one I linked, lots of different vendors have a house brand white box version of it. Fisher Scientific design that went off patent, can't remember the number.
It's a super easy mod to do. The parts are like $8 on Amazon and you print the mount. This is the first thing I did on my Maker Select.
Mod link: https://letsprint3d.net/2017/01/29/guide-installing-a-mosfet-board-maker-select-v2/
Part: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cZbPCbG4PRAN7
Hey everybody, I'm relatively new to the 3D printing scene as far as the printers themselves are concerned. I've been looking around for a sub $500 printer and I found the Creality Ender 3 Pro on Amazon for ~$260. Wanted to know if anyone has one and what they think of it or if there are suggestions for others.
Any feedback is helpful and much appreciated and the link to the printer is below. Thanks!
Creality Ender 3 Pro: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0DEYCbVJH97DS
If you want to go cheaper than the Johnson Controller, you can get yourself one of these and DIY. Since you're comfortable with some handy skills, this should fairly easy. Tons of tutorials online and will save you about $50 or more!
before I got my anova I was going to make a diy sous vide rig out of a big crock pot or turkey roaster using the below $15 temp controller. put the probe into water turn crockpot on high and it will read the probe and keep it exact temp. You would need to maintain some level of liquid in there though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00862G3TQ/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3LGI3WXJWR5S1&amp;colid=OKWRRIZTGC8S
of if you don't want to wire it yourself + mount it in some kind of box, for $35 there's this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011296704/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=ISIXJ4NHGY6W5&amp;colid=OKWRRIZTGC8S
Really though if you have the $150 for an anova that's a purpose built thing that I think I'm the 3rd person at least to think sounds like it would do exactly what you want. If you don't want to use bags you could probably stick a heavy pot in a cooler or rubbermaid tub of water and the anova and there's your temp controlled slow cooker there. It costs more than the temp controller and a crock pot for sure but it will do some extra stuff that if you have the cash you will surely appreciate in the future.
Not plastic. Resin, the Anycubic is a DLP printer, using a liquid resin and a UV display to print the layers. The quality is perfect as perfect as the model you load into the machine. no print lines, this model I only needed supports on the shoulder pads. Everything else was straight printed
Here are some links
Printer: https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Assembled-Innovation-Off-line-Printing/dp/B078N2TSYS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=anycubic+photon&amp;qid=1554900126&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
Resin: https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-POT016-PRINTER-500Mll-500G-Grey-Bottle/dp/B079GR1L19/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=anycubic+photon+resin&amp;qid=1554900236&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
Important thing to remember: Nothing is -ever- mandatory unless it's a major safety issue. The closest thing to that on that printer is the mosfet. I believe your original message implies you replaced the buildtak, so the Mosfet upgrade would be a very good idea unless you plan to change out the control board entirely.
Everything else is Optional and Quality of Life/Print stuff. ^.^
The following are examples on Amazon. Other folks and posts may have better advice on where/what to get.
Y Carriage plate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ (This is the part under the heated bed)
MicroSwiss all metal hotend (From other person's post):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1HANLS/
Linear bearings would be LM8LUU for the Y rods. If you have the plastic bearing holders, it's easy. If you have the aluminum block bearing holders, you'll have to find somebody else to source info on the circlips and how to not become sad with them.
You can print things just fine without any of these upgrades, so don't worry about the long print (unless you run out of filament).
A new controller board can do extra stuff and is required (Highly recommended, since you "can" make the probe work on the Melzi board, but poorly and at the cost of other things) for Z-Probe use, dual extruder, and with the heated bed on that printer, can remove the need for a separate MOSFET. It opens the path for other upgrades, can improve print quality to a degree in some cases, and can drive you absolutely nuts trying to set it up.
The inexpensive Quality of Life I'd recommend are thumbwheels with nylock nuts (hard to turn, but keep your level for a long time); corner-bracket spring cups (printed); and glass print bed. Two sets of printed things and about $12 at worst for the glass.
The bearing upgrade (If you can do it without fighting circlips) helps reduce Y-axis stutter and vibration. That upgrade brought my print quality up hugely. $25 or so if you get a lot of spares or higher quality ones.
The Y platform helps you with leveling and staying level.
The lack enclosure has some printed parts, $20-40 worth of Ikea furniture, and up to $50 worth of siding depending on your ability to cut glass and plexiglass.
So many things you CAN do. None that you MUST do. Some that you SHOULD do. And everything else is Just For Fun.
Honestly I think you're better off with a fridge, for the amount of time and money it would take to build an "icebox" like the Son of Fermentation.
You can get external temperature controllers that don't require any wiring at all, like this one.
Yes I actually just ordered the fan and filter so I actually dont have it running yet but this fan will be cooling my hood. Im planning on setting it up like this. Ill have the filter hung up in the corner top of my tent, then Ill attach the fan to it, then the hood, then have ducting taking the exhaust outside of my tent. This fan has a low and high speed., 239/333 cfm I believe. You can also get one of these that can help you control your speed as well. Im planning on getting a 4in filter (thats all i need, its cheaper and lighter too) and getting a 4 to 6 in duct converter (just a few buck at home depot)
http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS
That is my exact setup for my veg tent, other than I use a 400w MH. It was my first tent, but I wanted a continuous cycle, so I got a bigger tent for flowering.
The actual draw on that 700w model is 334w so that would probably be the one to go with, and probably won't need any supplemental lighting.
After buying the fan speed controller, while it does work, I found out that apparently it isn't the right kind for the type of motor the fans use. This is a little more expensive, but is supposed to be better on your fan motors.
If you get the entire upgraded hotend from Micro Swiss it will allow you to print with more abrasive filaments, like color changing, exotic infused filaments (ie. carbon fiber, bronze, wood) and at higher temps which is needed for things like PETG.
The glass plate makes sure you get a flat surface since the build plates are usually not 100% flat.
With that being said, buy the Maker Select printer from monoprice then head over to amazon and get the micro swiss hotend from there along with the boro glass plate. Total price will be around $441 with shipping of everything.
Yeah, maybe my post wasn't clear.
Printer board is an MKS Gen 1.4: https://reprap.org/wiki/File:MksGenV14-Pinout.png
Mosfet board is one of those cheap things from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK
This is a DIY printer that started life as an Anet A8, but now is a mix between an AM8 mod (bed and frame) and a Prusa MK3S clone (extruder), all running Klipper and Octoprint.
Currently this external Mosfet is controlled by D7 (the onboard Mosfet output for the second extruder) and powers the bed. The hotend is on D8 (because its Mosfet is a bit beefier), the extruder fan is on D9 and the print fan is on D10.
Filament sensor and BLTouch are on D10 and D6.
I'd like to use D7 to power an enclosure fan, but to do this I need to control the external Mosfet from a different pin, ideally D4 or D5 (which are marked as "servo" pins on the pinout diagram). I've tried various other pins and combinations with +5V and GND and various resistors in between, but I can't get the Mosfet to switch.
I have one of these digital controllers which does exactly what you're looking for. I'm super happy with it.
If you're thinking cheaper, there's an analog version as well.
The bottom budget (or lowest you could go without blaming your sharpening equipment for failure) would be a Norton combination India stone or King combination water stone, plus some honing compound and a scrap of denim or leather glued to a block of wood for a strop.
Use a honing guide like this if you aren't comfortable trying free hand.
A tool is sharp when two surfaces (the back/face and bevel) meet at a sharp corner with ~0 radius. The edge is honed/refined on finer and finer stones to get a better surface finish and better edge retention.
Here are some tutorials with and without a honing guide. I recommend watching both, because each covers a different aspect of initial chisel prep.
On top of your sharpening equipment, work from both sides and use knife lines to prevent blow out.
My own shoutouts:
Hatchbox Wood: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This sands easier than any classic plastic filament, after which you'd swear someone whittled the wood themselves. After stain, it's my very favorite thing to use. It's abominably stringy if you use anything smaller than 0.15mm layers, but that really doesn't matter since you're gonna sand it anyway.
Photos: https://imgur.com/a/wDIbPRq
CCTree Marble: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVJJB9Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This prints like butter, but I've been unable to stop it from stringing. It's easier to sand than other non-wood filaments I've tried though. I like the appearance, which seems to naturally hide subtle layer lines like the wood does.
Photos: https://imgur.com/a/R23qBsw
Special mention to Prusament: the very least stringing I've seen among the few filaments I've tried, but I don't buy it because it's expensive in the USA and because the fumes make my eyes hurt while doing squeaky noises in the extruder. Weird.
Photo: https://i.imgur.com/bNYNJYj.png
I recently bought this one for my very first plane (A Stanley #5 Sweetheart, woot!), and use it with a waterstone. It's very nice, except that my waterstone is exactly the same width as my blade.
I found a video...somewhere...about using this on the cut side and then using a very thin metal ruler as a stop for a very find back bevel, works great.
I still need to finish reprofiling my blade though, for which I'll probably use the sandpaper method.
I have these because I think paying $20 for orings is retarded. Typing is fine, maybe just less enjoyable, but still a lot nicer than my old keyboards. It really prevented the ping I used to get from bottoming out, but I feel they are a lot less useful now that I type properly and don't slam the keys.
WASD Keyboards the blue ones will dampen sound the most.
Max Keyboard
Amazon. Both WASD Keyboards and Max Keyboard also has O-rings on Amazon. Free shipping on Max Keyboard's O-rings and Amazon Prime on WASD Keyboards' red O-rings (blues are out of stock).
I honestly wouldn't bother with eBay unless if you want the buyer protection.
Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the whole the inside. It's safe for Electronics and will make it look like new. I would use a krylon paint on the rusty screws after removing the rust.
MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xyE1DbQ5BGQWF
I just got into this and purchased this 3D printer : ANYCUBIC Photon UV LCD
I absolutely love it. If you want I can message you some pictures of the few minis I've made once I get off work today! I tried the ender 3 printer but it took a bit too much to setup for me but I've heard it can do amazing things too for a lot cheaper.
I have had VERY good results with the iGaging Absolute Origin found on Amazon Here: https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498694071&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=digital+calipers
There are a number of reloaders (much deeper into reloading than I) using this piece of hardware with very good results.
Here is the video that sold me on buying it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yqZx_FNbSs
This is my build which I posted on Facebook a few days ago, before I add subwoofer, so far less than $500, I'm still building it ..
--
Tonight's window-shopping shopping cart for my first audio upgrade from 2016 WRX base OEM audio. Includes amp, speakers, and noise suppression. This seems like a really good starter build for less than $500. Looking for feedback.
DS18 SLC1800.4 DS18 Select SLC-1800.4 1,800 Watts Four (4) Channels Amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDI0D3K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00IDI0D3K&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=headsense-20&amp;linkId=TLRSTER62FWVZ4YI
Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Component Car Speakers + Alpine Sps-610 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Coaxial Car Speakers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059AK2T0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0059AK2T0&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=headsense-20&amp;linkId=PXNDF7S6RPBZPEKP
Rockford RFK4X 4 AWG Complete Amplifier Install Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012BYOSK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0012BYOSK&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=headsense-20&amp;linkId=2GAGDGGKMRWMHURO
Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP7Y/ref=as_li_tl…
50 Sq Ft Noico Self-adhesive Foil & Butyl Mat 50 Mil Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URR4O5I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00URR4O5I&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=headsense-20&amp;linkId=Q7FJEOPI6QOBHJKL
Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015WJH4ZW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B015WJH4ZW&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=headsense-20&amp;linkId=WNEQ67NXUPTXMY4T
BAFX Products® - Decibel Meter / Sound Level Reader - W/ Battery
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECCZWWI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00ECCZWWI&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=headsense-20&amp;linkId=UV3UKNSI24GV7E3Q
Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Measurement Microphone for iPhone, iPad Tablet and Android
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADR2B84/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00ADR2B84&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=headsense-20&amp;linkId=XCRDPQNFVK6NFAAN
Most cheap calipers are fine for measuring prints for accuracy. If you want to get something a little better than the cheapest but not spend too much, I'd recommend these. They're probably not more accurate than other digital calipers in the $20-$25 range, but the absolute origin feature makes them easier to use since you don't have to zero-out each time you use them.
Honestly, if you care about audio as a hobby and preserving your hearing, get a real spl meter. Even a cheap one will be miles better than a phone app: https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products%C2%AE-Decibel-Reader-Battery/dp/B00ECCZWWI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472860855&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=decibel+meter
Get something like that, use it to calibrate your phone app, then always bring hearing protection when you go to concerts. If you don't want to invest in an spl meter, always assume the app reading is lower than actual volume. My phone app was 15db below the actual db level.
Yea, same idea. If you hone the edge correctly, you'll almost never have to completely regrind it. I like this little thing to hold the chisel at the correct angle, but you can certainly do it by hand.
It could be "bad" ipa. Denatured ipa is not good for print bed cleaning. ( a bit on the subject https://sciencing.com/denatured-alcohol-vs-isopropyl-alcohol-5519636.html)
It is probably denatured with a oil based chemical , or has a weird additive, even a residue in the plastic bottle before filling at the factory.... Try another brand and get yourself some 99% ipa MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/
I'm personally curious about using DI water(deionized water) to clean instead of 99% ipa, or maybe a 50/50 mix. We use it at work on the industrial printers and it works really good.
I have a speed controller like that, it makes the fan louder actually. This one is worth it if loud fans annoy you https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS
3 plants is absolute max for 2x4 and 3 gal pots are prob enough for that. my 3 plants have filled my 2x4 halfway through flower, 2 is a better number if you want good light coverage, 2 plants with 5 gal pots
Switches: If you're leaning towards Cherry MX switches but are still unsure of which ones you prefer, you can get a switch tester that includes red, black, brown, clear, blue, and green switches, as well as O-rings.
No matter which of switch you choose, it will still produce some noise, due to the key caps bottoming out. If you prefer a long-term keyboard with switches that produce tactile feedback, such as browns, blues, greens, etc., but are worried about the noise, you can get O-rings like these.
Which switch? I also code for lengthy periods of time and would prefer typing with something that produces tactile feedback, like either browns or blues. But since you have roommates, maybe browns would be better... unless they don't mind the click-clack noise, then get the blues since they're more satisfactory to type with. Heavy typer? Maybe you'll prefer greens since they require more force.
Keyboards: Of the keyboards you've narrowed down to, the Das or K70 are good. There're also the non-RGB K70s with single color LEDs that are cheaper than the ones with RGBs and come in red and brown switches.
I've owned the K70s with red LEDs and red switches and currently own the Ducky Minis with green switches. The LEDs on my K70 lasted throughout the time I've used it (< 2 years), but a friend's K70 had some that stopped working several months after use :/ I eventually sold the K70 and prefer green switches and a 60% mechKB since it's more portable.
It's a good board, nothing fancy but it works well, I don't really like flashy, showy things anyways.
Both of mine have MX Clear switches and the original has o-rings and PBT blacked out caps.
There are ways to make it cheaper.
A MOSFET (basically a relay that switches the circuit for the heated bed) would be a huge upgrade.
You can flash the firmware of the board with proper security measures in place. Lookup Marlin firmware.
That would be your number one tasks and a huge safety upgrade.
There are lots of tutorials on how to do both.
30mm dia. base Source 510 from Stealthvape turned down to 25mm. Threads weren't damaged from being chucked in a 3-jaw. Used a carbide cutter and took light cuts, about 0.05mm per pass. Also wet sanded the top base 600-2500 grit (I should have started with a lower grit, still some tooling marks)
http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/SOURCE-30MM-FLAT
/u/IsABot /u/vapescaped you guys want one let me know
A prior thread asking about 25mm 510s: https://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/5gnnbf/25mm_510_connector/
If anyone needs some digital calipers, these are great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ I was using some from Harbor Freight prior and was becoming frustrated with them. Started looking around and these were quite highly recommended and well reviewed. Well machined, few smooth action, maintains zero. Was considering dropping $200 on Mitutoyo calipers until luckily finding these
I have bought both. Just save up a little longer and buy the veritas. It's a better long term investment.
That said, if you are really on a budget, realize that these honing guides are practically all copies of each other. I would not be surprised if they're made from the same factory. You can save a few bucks by buying this.
http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370329190&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=honing+guide
after that build yourself a jig that lie nielsen suggest
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/pdf/AngleSettingJig.pdf
Bok choi has been the easiest thing for me to grow by far so there's definitely something off in your system.
Having a pH pen and an EC pen is pretty much critical to diagnosing nutrient solution problems. This is the pH meter I have, which is kind of mid-tier but comes with calibration solution. Also pick up some storage solution as it will reduce how often you have to recalibrate the pen vs keeping it dry. EC meter you can go cheap on, I use this one and get good results.
The most important tool i have is:
Oakton ph2 pen with calibration solution(s). Proper ph adjusting base and acid too.
Bonus:
HPS lighting as its usually cheap and very effective. LED is still expensive.
lots of jars to store the massive harvests you will get.
If you have ever used the common march 809 pump most brewers use then you would see how much it sucks. The march 809 is a pain in the ass to use because it must be primed, can easily cavitate, and only works in one direction. A peristaltic pump on the other hand can be run forwards and backwards, is self-priming, and is more easy to sterilize by design. They are used pretty often in labs for all kinds of things especially medical.
Pouring things between flasks is fine for the most part. It was just something to consider.
Buy a nice used on one ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TESTED-Cole-Parmer-L-S-Masterflex-Peristaltic-Pump-7553-00-HELP-ORPHANS-H-/160833661031?pt=BI_Pumps&amp;hash=item25726ee867
Another thing you need:
Aeration equipment
pH meter w/ 4.0 calibration solution
Such as:
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/WILLIAMS-OXYGEN-AERATION-SYSTEM-P699.aspx
and this:
http://www.amazon.com/Oakton-EcoTestr-Waterproof-Tester-Range/dp/B004G8PWAU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348059104&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=pH+meter
https://www.amazon.com/Humidity-Controller-Inkbird-Humidistat-Pre-wired/dp/B01J1E5LWM/
and this
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ
will clear your humidity out in a minute or two. get a cheaper humidistat if you want, just needs to turn on and off at a set point, but the inkbird is a good value.
Mitutoyo is absolutely the best, but just in case you want to pickup a few calipers that are very near the same quality at budget pricing, I can highly recommend: iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection / Extreme Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_02MAyb2RWWRKM
I have purchased several of these for our engineering department and they are leaps and bounds better than other cheap units. The sliding action is smooth with no slop. The display updates very quickly. Accuracy and repeatability have been tested to be comparable to the Mitutoyos.
this is the one im thinking of pulling the trigger on today. What do you think?
Worth it, or should i save some money and just woot it?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GYRQVYV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2ALB3RMNIRLH8&psc=1
I got everything separately.. Now I know I should have gotten my flavors and nicotine from wizard labs, but I ordered nicotine from nude nicotine and flavors from TFA's website. Also don't get a pack of flavors, just pick a couple of recipes you'd like and order those flavors. Here is a shitload of VG for sale on amazon. Grab some syringes, and glass dropper bottles while you are there and you're ready..
EDIT: You'll also need some bigger syringes or a graduated cylinder..
I would read the sub for a couple of days, make sure to look at the top posts and search some stuff you think of.. I really wish I would have done that before I just bought a bunch of shit.
I'll start with the non-printable mods:
Replaced the PSU with a 750w ATX PSU I had lying around.
If you do this, you will more than likely need to add a power resistor to the 5v rail. I also removed all the original wires and connectors from the PSU and resoldered just what I needed with better rated wire.
Glass bed on top of the aluminum. I just went to Lowes and got them to cut a few pieces of single pane glass.
Mosfet circuit for the heated bed:
https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493092441&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3d+printer+mosfet
Upgraded Y Carriage:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds/products/anodized-aluminum-y-carriage-plate-upgrade-v2-for-prusa-i3-reprap-3d-printer
New Belts:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/linear-motion/products/10-meters-6mm-width-gt2-timing-belt-for-reprap-delta-3d-printer-kossel-rostock
Geared Pulley to replace the smooth one:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/linear-motion/products/3d-printer-idler-pulley-aluminum-dual-ball-bearing-3mm-bore-16-teeth-gt2-belt
Upgraded Heated Bed, this bed heats up slow and I also lost a little bit of build volume. I plan on getting something better here very soon. Once it's up to temp it works well though.
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds/products/new-improved-mk3-aluminum-reprap-3d-printer-prusa-i3-heated-hot-bed-build-plate
Inductive Sensor for auto level:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWNCY4C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Copper Tape Because the inductive sensor can't see glass I put this on the bottom side.
https://www.amazon.com/Tapes-Master-10ft-Copper-Foil/dp/B00Z8MCJW2/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493092625&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=copper+tape
Firmware:
To get the sensor working, you'll have to change the firmware unless you only want to use it as a limit switch. The only option that i'm aware of is Skynet which is based on Marlin and works fairly well. You can find that on their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/skynet3ddevelopment/
Blue LED Extruder Fan (because the original broke). I don't remember where I got this from. I'd like to find an RGB one! ha
I added a bunch of WS2812 LEDs controlled by an Arduino at the moment, I am using OctoPi so eventually i'll have that control them but at this point they're set to UV colors because it looks cool.
Printed mods:
Frame braces:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1857991
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1430727
Y Carriage Risers:
The Y carriage sits too low and will smack into the Y axis motor so I made these risers to solve that:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2226564
Y Belt Clamp: You'll need one for the new carriage, but I cannot find the one that I used.
Auto level bracket: Though I only have PLA and it kept warping so I made a metal version of it:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2006986
Anti-Z Wobble I modified this but no longer have the file, I also printed a cylinder to wedge into the hole above the lead screws.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435
Bearings I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Beerings-Malt-ABEC-Skateboard-Bearings/dp/B005NFXHQG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493094188&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=beerings
Belt Tentioners I can't remember which ones I finally used.
I think this is everything. If I remember something else i'll post it.
I bought the Lerway 110V All-Purpose Temperature Controller for $15 and have had great success with it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KVCPH2
problem the cheap ones will drift constantly giving you massive ph lockouts. buy a good one and it lasts forever as long as you take care of it. amazon sells Oakton ph testers for a fair price. http://www.amazon.com/Oakton-EcoTestr-Waterproof-Tester-Range/dp/B004G8PWAU
Most of these folks are right- blues are pretty noisy even with O-rings, but I will say that O-rings WILL quiet it down a bit. The bottoming out sound of the keycap is quite a bit louder than the actual switch actuating. A user here referred me to some cheap o-rings here that I quite like and would recommend, but it looks like they're not available at the moment. :/
I totally recommend the All-Metal extruder Hotend for the i3 as well, once I threw that on, my prints were beautiful.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/
Yes. The flavors we add to our e-liquids don’t make them safer. What you linked is probably safer than anything flavored juice on the market.
It’s pretty expensive though. 4.4¢ a mL vs. 0.66¢ per mL
Comgrow Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer with Removable Build Surface Plate and UL Certified Power Supply 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GB21Db61MBXR2
Good luck and thank you!
If the reds are softer than the blacks, i don't know how you'll rest your fingers on the keys w/out depressing them. I find the blacks to be ideal for gaming and more than acceptable for typing. If I did more typing than mousing, I'd definitely want browns or blues.
Be sure to get yourself some O-rings though, otherwise you'll need some earplugs.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm working on this mod: https://gigdigit.com/extended-heat-bed-kits-120-x-250mm-print-area-3mm-thick-select-mini-v1-v2/
The double-sized hotbed takes more power than the stock power supply can put out (especially the newer 7 amp models, which I have)
So I decided to use one of the MOSFET drivers, through the existing power jack, to which I'll connect a beefier power supply. I chose this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK
The top two terminals tap into power as shown here: https://imgur.com/NYOGok9
The bottom two run through the braided cable (joined by the thermistor wires and run to the new platform. The small connector goes to the original board's hotbed connection.
If anyone else has done this mod, or something similar, I have a few questions.
I'll probably have more questions as I go. :-)
Get a bigger fan (with a variatic controller if you want to run it less cfm)
GoBox nutes are not that harsh in flowering. I don't get nute burn when just using the GoBox full strength flower schedule except with some finicky picky phenos.
I use a Hurricane Fans 745 CFM Inline Fan, 8-Inch for my 5x5 8" Gorilla tent with an 8" pass through Phesh filter pulling from upper level
proper speed controller, however I use my 8" full blast currently
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/
Use 99% isopropyl alcohol (I use this stuff) to degrease the places on which you'll be putting the adhesive bits.
Personally, I spray down a cloth or paper towel with glass cleaner (Windex) then add a few sprays of alcohol and use that for most frame cleaning. Then for things which need to be grease-free I follow up with straight alcohol on a clean paper towel.
I use much stronger degreasers on metal-only parts, such as when cleaning the drivetrain parts when off of the bike. But for anywhere around plastics, alcohol is my go-to. It will not hurt the epoxy in carbon fiber.
(Always remember, carbon fiber is plastic.)
Drilling the hole is super simple. You just need to know the OD of the drain valve and then get a step drill bit https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_256287011_0&amp;pf_rd_p=0c52eddb-bf3e-5079-a600-1a1baeabeb0f&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_i=256287011&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=FYR4GJFVCFM1TC7P2MP3&amp;pf_rd_r=FYR4GJFVCFM1TC7P2MP3&amp;pf_rd_p=0c52eddb-bf3e-5079-a600-1a1baeabeb0f
That will give you a perfect circle hole for the size that you need.
Get this one! Apera Instruments AI209 PH20 Value Waterproof pH Pocket Tester, ±0.1 pH Accuracy, 0-14.0 pH Range, Complete Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENFOHN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hxqlzb549NGB6
I use www.fakespot.com for everything I buy on Amazon, this site verifies if reviews are made up or actual people. I love the site. And they say this PH pen is legit
Just received this ph meter today:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENFOHN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-iXpzb0Y5RXN0
Was really easy to calibrate and not too expensive imo. Will update with any issues, but so far it's perfect for my needs.
You can go to Amazon and buy from Essential Depot. Their VG is pretty good quality and you can get a gallon for around $28 and a quart for around $13 with shipping included. Sometimes these guys sell "Cube boxes" which will include 4 x gallon sizes of VG or PG for around $60-80 depending on the sale price. But you can find them on Amazon here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is what I replaced my cheap yellow one with, and I couldn’t be any happier with it. It comes with a nice case, batteries, and calibration solution:
Apera Instruments AI209 PH20... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENFOHN8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I actually have and use almost the exact same one. Looks like it might be the next generation of the same pen.
Anyhow, it's worked good for me for well over a year.
Did you make sure to keep the electrode in electrode storage soultion when not in use? If not the electrode can rust out and fail pretty quickly on any PH meter.
The one I got is the Anycubic Photon which from what I could figure is the cheapest functional one that doesn't have reliability issues like leakage (and trust me, the last thing you ever want is the resin leaking, the stuff is horrible if it ever gets anywhere it shouldn't be).
Unlike an FDM you also have to think about ventilation. I printed a 4-inch duct adapter for the printer and got a cheap inline duct fan just so I could vent all the fumes outside. But for what it's worth it has been a lot easier to maintain and get started than any FDM printer I've used, at the cost of more hassle with post-processing and cleaning.
For figures you’re going to want to get an SLA 3d printer. Something like this ANYCUBIC Photon UV LCD 3D Printer Assembled Innovation with 2.8'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.53"(L) x 2.56"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078N2TSYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B3XKDb4GBGPPH
It makes super smooth prints and since you aren’t trying to build anything huge.
Can you design or model with any of the software out there?? That’s the key for making a new head for your legends, Mezco figs or whatever but I know a lot of people are doing it so maybe you know someone who can hook you up with files and some you can find online but if you want to make your own stuff you’ll need to learn. There’s a lot of tutorials on YouTube.