Reddit mentions: The best industrial tubing

I've made some slight modifications to this, mostly to make it easier to follow. I've also included steps that should be quite obvious to someone who's done any homebrewing before, but I wish someone had told me when I first started.

I'd link to the original, for the sake of attribution, but the user who posted this deleted their account not long after I wrote everything down.

This will produce a sweet fruit-mead (or melomel). WARNING this will be far more alcoholic than it tastes, and should not be consumed if you've recently taken antibiotics, or suffered gastric distress, as the yeast culture will still be alive, and will happily colonize your intestines if your gut microbiome is too fucked up.

Equipment: Most of this stuff will be a good deal cheaper at your local homebrew store, but I've included amazon links (also to the yeast).

At least 2 (3 is better, for reasons we'll get to) 1-gallon jugs (I don't recommend scaling this up), glass preferred. Add an extra jug for each additional batch. This one includes a drilled stopper and airlock

Drilled stoppers (or carboy bungs) and airlocks, non-drilled rubber stoppers.

An autosiphon and food-safe tubing.

Food-safe sanitizing solution (I recommend StarSan).

An electric kettle with temperature selector is useful, but not needed.

If you want to bottle it rather than just keeping a jug in your fridge:

Empty beer or wine bottles (just save your empties), capping or corking equipment, caps or corks, and a bottling wand.

Ingredients:

2.5 lbs (1130g) honey, clover recommended.

A cup (approximately 250ml) or so of fruit (I recommend blackberries, and I strongly recommend against cherries, other recipes have worked for me, but this yields a very medical flavor with cherries).

1 packet Lalvin EC-1118 yeast (a champagne yeast notable for its hardiness, its ability to out-compete other microorganisms, and its high alcohol tolerance).

Optional: potassium sorbate (to reduce yeast activity when our ferment is done), pectic enzyme (aka pectinase - for aesthetic purposes). Both are also available in bulk.

Process:

Day 1:

Mix sanitizing solution with clean water at specified proportions in one of your jugs, filling the jug most of the way. Stopper it, shake it. Remove stopper, set it down wet-side-up (to keep it sterile), pour the fluid to another jug. There will be foam left behind, this is fine, don't bother to rinse it or anything. At low concentrations this stuff is totally fine to drink, and won't ruin your fermentation or flavor.

Add honey to jug, all of it.

If you have a kettle, and your jug is glass, heat water to around 160F (71 Celsius), pour a volume into your jug roughly equal to the amount of honey present. Fix sterile stopper to jug. Shake until honey and water are thoroughly combined. The heat will make it FAR easier to dissolve the honey. Set aside for an hour or so while it cools. Add clean water 'til mostly full, leaving some room for fruit and headspace.

If you're missing a kettle, or using a plastic jug, this is gonna be a little harder. Fill most of the way with clean water (I recommend using a filter) leaving some room for fruit and headspace. Fix sterile stopper, shake 'til honey and water are thoroughly combined. This will take a while, and you will need to shake VERY vigorously.

At this point, you should have a jug mostly-full of combined honey and water. To this, add fruit (inspecting thoroughly for mold, don't want to add that). Then dump in a single packet of the Lalvin EC-1118 yeast, don't bother rehydrating it first or anything, it'll be fine going straight in. Add pectic enzyme if you have it (this does nothing to the flavor, it just makes the end product less cloudy). Stopper it up, shake it again. This jug now contains your "must" (pre-ferment mead).

Pour some sterilizing fluid in a bowl, put a carboy bung/drilled stopper in the bowl, with an airlock. Ensure full immersion. Let sit for a minute. Replace stopper with your bung/drilled stopper, affix airlock. Fill airlock with clean water, sanitizing fluid, or vodka. Rinse the stopper, fix it to your jug of sanitizing fluid.

Place must-jug in a dark place, I recommend a cabinet or closet.

Days 2-7:

Retrieve jug, give it a little jostle. Nothing so vigorous as to get your mead into the airlock, but enough to upset it. This is to release CO2 buildup, and to keep any part of the fruit from drying out. The foaming from the CO2 release may be very vigorous. Do this over a towel for your first batch. If the foam gets into your airlock, clean your airlock and reaffix it. Perform this jostling procedure at least once per day, more is better.

Day 8:

Final jostling, I recommend doing this in the morning.

Day 9:

let it sit, we want the sediment to settle.

Day 10: Time to get it off the sediment

Shake sterilizing fluid jug. Affix tubing to siphon. Put the siphon in the sterilizing fluid, shake the jug a little just to get the whole siphon wet. Siphon fluid into either a third container or a large bowl. This is all to sterilize both the inside and outside of your siphoning system.

Remove siphon from jug. Give it a couple pumps to empty it of any remaining fluid. Place siphon in your mead jug, leaving the end of the tubing in sterilizing fluid while you do this.

Take the jug that you just siphoned the sterilizing fluid from. Dump what fluid remains in it. Place the end of the tubing in this jug, then siphon the mead into it. Make no attempt to get the last bit of mead into your fresh container, it's mostly dead yeast and decomposing fruit.

Add potassium sorbate if you have it, stopper the jug, place it in your fridge.

Clean the jug you started in. Clean your siphon and tubing.

Day 11:

Let it sit

Day 12 or later: time to transfer again, or bottle it.

If you no longer have a jug full of sterilizing fluid, make one.

Repeat the earlier steps to sterilize the siphoning system, with a bottling wand attached to the end of the tubing if you want to bottle.

Sterilize your bottles or a clean jug, either with fluid or heat.

Siphon mead either into your bottles or jug. Stopper/cap/cork when done.

Put your jug/bottles in the fridge.

The yeast culture is still alive, and will continue to ferment. The fridge, and optional potassium sorbate, will merely slow this down. I recommend drinking any bottles within two months, to avoid a risk of bursting bottles. The mead should already be tasty at this point, but usually tastes much better after a couple more weeks.

EDIT: Fixed the formatting up a bit.

Kombucha is fairly forgiving, but the following might help:

• The biggest thing you can do to improve your kombucha is to use filtered water. Buy it filtered in bulk or install an inline filter.
  
• I find it easier to buy loose-leaf tea and a kitchen scale to measure our tea than to count tea bags, but YMMV. The loose leaf can go into a nylon mesh bag like a giant tea bag.
  
• Keep an eye on the temperature of the water that you use to brew your sweet tea - it should be well below boiling to avoid burning the tea leaves. With the 80/20 mix of green/black tea, I try to steep it at 170F for 10 minutes.
  
• Start 1F with a lot of kombucha starter - almost 1 gallon for the 5 gallon batch is a good place to start to make sure the scoby is nice and active. At a minimum, you should be using a half gallon of starter for that size batch.
  
• I like keeping track of the progress of my batches over time (pH, brix, and total acidity). If you feel similarly, get a pH meter, brix refractometer, and a total acidity titration testing kit (I just use some NaOH solution and the pH meter). I'm still trying to figure out a convenient setup for testing that provides a reasonable estimate of alcohol...
  
• Depending on the temperature in your brewing area, you may want to invest in a heating mat and thermostat that can keep the 1F at a consistent temperature. If you use one, wrap it around the sides of the bucket to make sure that both the yeast (which tends to sink) and the bacteria (which tends to float) benefit from its effects. Placing the bucket on top of the heating mat may lead to a kombucha batch that tastes heavily of yeast.
  
• When it comes time for 2F, there are a few options for moving your batch:
  
  • Pour it out: simple, but potentially messy
    
  • Ladle it out: simple, but time-consuming
    
  • Install a bottling spigot: very useful, but it creates the potential for leaks and it can get plugged up with yeast
    
  • Use gravity and an auto-siphon: a little difficult to understand the first time, but after that it's the best solution
    
    I hope that helps :)

There are plenty of places online, but it's going to be expensive.

First thing you want to make sure of is that you get the right copper alloy. Basically this means C101 to C110 copper. This is 99.9% pure copper for electrical / electronic manufacturing, oxygen free. Any of these grades will do. C101 will be the most expensive, at 99.99% purity, but the difference so far as your application is concerned is trivial.

Copper itself isn't expensive, but these grades of copper are. Moreover, the real reason for the high price is that thick walled tubing is rare; it doesn't have many applications. Thinner walled tubing is widely used for water pipes, air conditioning, refrigeration, etc. so is substantially cheaper.

The downside is that the magnet will fall faster through a thin walled tube. If you want to see a strong Lenz effect with slow fall, you need thicker tubes.

If you do a quick search on Google for thick walled copper tubes, you'll come up with a bunch of hits. Among the cheaper prices I could find is this from Amazon for C101 copper - 6.5" outer diameter, 5.5" inner diameter, 0.5" thick walls, 12" length.

It's hard to tell the dimensions of the tube in the video, because there is no scale of reference other than the guy's hand, and that's a pretty rough guide because you don't know how big his hand is. However, my guess is 5" outer diameter, half inch thick wall, 6" length. This tube I linked above has the same wall thickness, but is wider (6.5"), and twice as long. It costs $576.65 with free shipping. Conceivably, you could find someone else interested and split the cost. If you cut the tube in half, each half would still end up bigger and nicer than the one in the video, and each of you would only pay half the cost.

Or you could just keep the whole tube. 12" is a longer distance to fall than 6", so it would take a nice long time for the magnet to drop through, and you would find it easier if you wanted to flip it upside down when the magnet reached the bottom, and prolong the effect.

Keep in mind that this is a hell of a lot of copper. That tube I linked would weigh over 16.5 kilos, or almost 37 pounds. If you want something lighter and cheaper, there's this tube which is 4" outer diameter and 3" inner diameter, but still the same half inch thickness. It sells for $347.53, but again it's 12" so you could cut it in half and split the cost with a friend. It's still over 21 pounds of very pretty copper.

For the magnet, you need a neodymium magnet. These magnets are extremely powerful (and expensive) and dangerous when in large sizes like the one shown in the video. They come in grades, usually labeled like "N32" or "N42" or "N48". The higher the number, the stronger the magnetism of the material, but don't be fooled by low numbers. If the magnet is big, it is dangerous even if it's relatively "low" grade.

By "big" I mean a 2" disk that's at least an inch thick, like shown in the video. A magnet that size can break your fingers, shatter the bone like it were candy cane. You don't just pull the magnet out of your drawer to play with it, absent minded like. You store it carefully, you plan ahead of time how you'll bring it out, you prepare a work surface in advance where you'll be handling it. Like in the video, the guy had a large wooden surface to work on. You don't want it coming near any ferromagnetic material, specially large chunks of it. A big magnet can have a pull measured in the hundreds or thousands of pounds. It's beyond the capacity of an average sized man to pull it off, you need leverage. And they are brittle. If they come in contact with something suddenly, they will shatter into tiny bits. Wear eye protection.

Here's a magnet off eBay that will work with either tube listed above. It's a 2" disk that's also 2" thick, making it pretty damn powerful. The material is N48 and it's $160. You can shop around and maybe find a cheaper deal. There are a lot of neodymium magnet sellers on eBay. I've bought from there before a few times and never had problems. Just look for the seller's reliability rating and the magnet's grade/size. No need to worry about anything else, there are no other differences. They're all churned out the same few factories in China.

Like I said, it's an expensive hobby. If you just want to see the Lenz effect, you can buy much smaller magnets and thin copper tube for $20-$30 bucks combined. But if you want thick copper and big magnets, be prepared to pay.

Again, be careful around big neodymium magnets. Pinched/bruised fingertips are quite normal, and shattered fingers and broken bones can happen more often than you might think. All it takes is a few second of carelessness. Good luck.

EDIT: never mind the dogecoin, I don't want it.

Don't buy a kit! They sell you all kinds of shit you won't use when there are better options for similar money.

Get a brewing bucket as if you don't have a bottler then this will make your life so much better.

Get 2 carboys (glass is best but better bottles will work too). Check Craigslist for these...you can get some awesome deals.

Get 1 Refractomoeter instead of a hydrometer because they use WAY less of your must to calculate and they aren't mega fragile like hydrometers are.

You will want an auto siphon

You will want a carboy brush that fits on a cordless drill because cleaning a carboy without one fucking sucks (and for 18 bucks this is a no brainer).

You will need sanitizer. I personally like Iodophor because it's super cheap, it doesn't really foam up and it lasts forever. I bought one of THESE bottles like 2 years ago and it is about half full even though I brew between 50-100 gallons a year.

I always advocate people start with beer bottles rather than wine bottles. The reason for this has less to do with the bottles and more to do with equipment. The Ferrari Bottle Capper is 14 dollars while a good floor corker for wine bottles will set you back 60 bucks. In addition, it's cheaper to bottle in 20 ounce beer bottles with caps rather than in wine bottles with good corks. Use of a double lever corker for wine bottles should be considered a war crime...seriously...unless you're a masochist who loves dumping wine everywhere and having to clean it afterwards...then just avoid them...they are absolutely awful.

If you go the wine bottle route then NEVER use agglomerated or colmated corks (the ones made from tiny pieces of cork glued together) as they fall apart and will leave chunks in your bottles. In addition they don't age well, so you are much more likely to lose your brew to spoilage. I like synthetic Nomacorc but you can also buy very good quality solid natural corks as well.

Good oxygen absorbing bottle caps on the other hand are mega cheap. Again...this isn't about one being better than the other, so you can use either one.

For wine bottles, I REALLY like the ones with screw tops because they make it nice and easy to cap your bottles once opened. But for all of your bottles buy these locally...shipping will double or triple the cost of these vs buying locally. I get them for 15 bucks a case a few miles from my house...they're almost 30 a case on Amazon or close to that from Midwest or from Ohio (shipping is like 11-15 dollars a case.)

For beer bottles...I prefer clear, but they'll be tough to find locally so I often end up with brown ones. Again...buy these locally not online due to shipping costs. Your local brewing supply stores buy these pallets at a time so even Amazon can't compete with the lack of shipping costs.

Hey, just a friendly heads up you may wanna switch to food grade silicon tubing instead of vinyl (as that appears to me). I had once used a vinyl tubing until I read that when heated it releases chemicals that when inhaled can be extremely detrimental to the lungs over time. Not the worst thing once in a while I'm sure, but the food grade tubing will accomplish the same task as other tubes without the negative side effects. It's also a bit more flexible so it's easier to maneuver after a few rips! Looks AMAZING otherwise! Be safe and enjoy (:

Edit: here's the link to the one I used! It also fits around the glass stem of a MLFB perfectly so you can "Vong" (vape/bong!) if you have one (: sorry for the long link, I'm on mobile: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FOWGG2/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey! I know the feeling, I dealt with pretty much the exact same thing freshman year of college. I was in the process of getting diagnosed at the time, and so had the opportunity to discuss this with the OT person I was sent to for a session after diagnosis. She suggested two things: first, using gel pens instead of ball point pens, as they create less resistance, so your hands won't have to work as hard; second, she suggested using this insulation as a grip on the pens (cut to size for the pens). It is far bigger/squishier than anything designed to be a pen grip. It takes a bit of getting used to, but it does help. Since then, I have found that these pens are amazing. Again, it takes some getting used to, and changing the way you write, but it's worth it. I have also found a method of KT taping my hands that is really helpful for support on especially bad days. If you are interested, let me know and I can ask my (much more tech-savvy partner) to help me send/link photos via reddit. I absolutely second everything everyone else has said here about getting official accommodations, and then using a laptop to take notes, or have notes taken by another member of the class. I had official accommodations in college for this reason, as well, and they were a life-saver. I generally worked out with the instructor whether I was going to use my laptop, have notes taken for me, or both, and how tests would work. Hopefully my suggestions above will help until you can go through the formal process, and for situations where writing is a must.

The best way I found to get started is to just get a gallon jug carboy, some starsan, some montrachet wine yeast, yeast nutrients, and 100% grape juice from your local grocery store.

The starsan is a concentrate, I put about a capful into a 2 liter bottle, fill it up with water, and keep it under my sink. It's an antiseptic rinse that should splash over everything that's going to touch the juice; airlock, bottle, your hands, the scissors you use, all that stuff. It doesn't even needed to be rinsed, just shake the bottle out and go to town.

Once you've rinsed, put the juice, yeast nutrients, and yeast in the bottle. Put some water in the airlock and put it on top. Put the bottle of juice and yeast in a dark cool spot until you can easily see a flashlight shine through it, about 2 months or so.

While it's doing it's thing collect 5 old wine bottles or get some from a brew supply store. Old liquor bottles work great, just rinse them good and then splash starsan around inside.

Buy a racking cane! This significantly simplifies the process of getting wine out of the jug without sucking up all the dead yeast at the bottom. Run starsan through it at first, filling the starsan cup with water as it gets siphoned out so that the inside is all nice and clean.

Rack that wine out of the jug and into bottles. That's it! Age for six months if you want, but I often just mix in a little fresh grape juice to sweeten it up a bit right there in my cup and go to town right away, hence my inability to age it.

The only regular cost is the juice. I like to get the frozen 100% juice on sale because I'm doing 15 gallon batches these days (because I'm going to outpace my thirst, darn it), I use about 14 of those per 5 gallon carboy and fill the rest up with spring water from the grocery store.

I also use 4 cups of 5 minute boiled raw sugar in each 5 gallon carboy of juice to boost the abv, but this is personal taste. It makes the wine taste pretty hot but it also has a solid kick to it so I don't mind. After I mix it with a bit of fresh grape juice it just tastes like a light sweet wine and I have a very good time with it.

TLDR: The "Full kit" looks like it has the basics. As others have said, you might want a food-grade plastic bucket for primary fermentation, and you'll need bottles/containers to store the end product in.

If it were a "complete" kit I'd probably put one together which included One step sanitizer to sanitize equipment,a plastic fermentation bucket, and an auto-syphon to make racking (i.e., transferring the liquid from container to container) easier.

If it's something you're interested in pursuing further, there's plenty more you could consider picking up. A bottle filler for the auto syphon, a filtration kit to help clarify wine/mead, fining products, you might want to look into picking up more things like yeast energizer and yeast nutrient (which it sounds like this kit comes with some) and sulfate/sorbate (to stabilize the mead before back-sweetening) etc.

There are lots of recipes and lots of help available, so read up and feel free to ask questions and have a lot of fun experimenting and trying new things :)

6.5gal plastic fermentor - $17.88 (Don't bother with glass fermentors!)

6.5gal Bottling Bucket - $18.81

Hydrometer - $12.99

3 3-piece airlocks - $5.00 - trust me, they'll break.

stopper not needed with plastic fermentor

Bottle filler - $5.09

10 ft 3/8th inch tubing - $10.99

Auto siphon - $8.76

don't need a bottle brush with plastic fermentor

144 bottle caps - $5.78

Use any pure sugar for priming - just calculate it right. I use cane sugar without issue.

Wing bottle capper - $15.48

Dial thermometer not really needed if you're slapping on an adhesive one, but definitely get this for a hot liquor tun if you're doing that.

Wine thief - $11.20

I never used a funnel or fermentor brush - you can use anything to clean but I suggest Oxyclean rinses

32oz Star San - $20.70

Adhesive Thermometer - $4.84

Total Cost: $137.52. Not ridiculous savings BUT you get 32oz of star san instead of 4oz of io-star which will last you years and sanitizer is expensive. You get a plastic fermentor instead of glass which is so much easier to clean and keep light out. Glass carboys are good for aging and aging is good for wine or special beers. Focus on simple ales that don't require it first.

The real savings come when you do all grain and make your own equipment. You can save $137 alone if you buy a big stainless steel pot and slap on a dial thermometer with a ball valve.

I AM NOT AN EXPERT MANY PEOPLE KNOW FAR MORE THEN I DO, MAYBE THEY WILL INTERJECT IF I AM WRONG

Alright, let me guide you away from the starter kit. It has helped me know what I'm doing, and develop my process, thinking about and acquiring the pieces I would need. Let's say to start off with you just are busting to brew! Can't contain it anymore!

Start off with these three things

This Pot

This Cooker

-and I know it's not prime shipping but one of these

Plastic Carboys for $25.53 CDN with airlock and stopper

alright so baring the cost of shipping from AiH, plus a propane tank, siphon/tubing, and sanitizer. your looking at a cool $149.25 CDN for a bare bones basic kit for extract brewing.

Now you get a little more fancy, and throw in

This Auto Siphon

this brew in a bag

and this thermometer

and you right around $210 CDN minus a big ass spoon and bottling bucket that would be all you need to do all grain brewing from a bare bones stand point (ok baring ingredients also) but I think you could get off cheaper.. or at least better gear for the same money. especially since the kit you picked out doesn't even have a propane burner or pot this is a hell of a steal. You could go all out, buying a mini fridge and temperature controller for fermentation, an immersion chiller so your not icing down your beer post boil in a bathtub, custom mash paddles, etc.

What I got mad about when I started brewing was how much people were charging for what amounted too a couple of buckets, airlocks, benchcappers, and some "literature". When if you pieced it out it was more like price gauging because I did't know what I was doing.

Either way you go about it, welcome to paradise! Just wait till everyone starts rolling their eyes, when you bring up beer so you seek out friends that brew and you all start your big group beer tastings, I ♥ my beer buddies.

TL;DR : Here's an arguably better (and more utilized) "starter kits" of sorts for a basic bare bones set up. From a newly all grain brewer in a college apt

Sure! I got into it pretty heavy with a grand or two in brewing equipment at one point. A seltzer kit is pretty basic because you don't have to boil or "make" anything, but the gear will still nickel and dime you to death:

• C02 cannister - $53 + ~$20 to fill it. They ship empty.
  
  
• Regulator - $50. Allows you to control carbonation rate and serving pressure of your beverage
  
  
• Corny or Cornelius kegs. $50-80. Fizzy bubble storage.
  
  
• Locking beverage and gas connectors. $10-20. They'll be the same basic type as the keg valves (Ball lock, in this case) but one is for gas in and one is for beverage out.
  
  
• Beverage line and connection barbs. ~$20. Allows you to dispense delicious fizzy bubbles from your keg.
  
  The rest of the cost is going to be in refrigeration and faucets, if you want to go that route. You can also get party faucets like you see on commercial rentable taps which do just fine but a nice chrome faucet looks and works better if you have the right setup.
  
  Assuming you drink ~3 cases La Croix a week at $3/case (12 pack) that would end up around $36-40/month which would take 12-14 months to even out if you end up spending $500 or so on the entire setup, but that's retail and that's assuming your La Croix is only $3. We can only find it around here for $5 :/ Check Craigslist frequently and you'll find deals from people like me who need to get rid of their equipment en masse. Cost of the seltzer is almost negligible if you do plain fizzy water. If you do citrus I think I used ~20oz for 5 gal of my last batch which was 15-20 lemons/limes. A 5 gallon batch equals out to around 50 12oz drinks so the cost of 4+ cases of fizzy water is cut down to the cost of 20 lemons or $5-10.
  
  tl;dr- initial cost is high but it will pay for itself in a year or less and think of all the cans that won't get dumped back into the world.
  
  Edit: If you can find a system like this you'll be golden. It has all the parts I just listed including a nice chrome faucet and tower. All you'd need to do is pick up a used keg and the proper connectors which could easily be found for <$75.

Here's a video where he's making led lit tubes for a light saber. He uses plastic tubing and wraps the led in packaging material for the frosted look.

Plastic Tubing not sure if this is rigid enough but they definitely do sell clear plastic tubing.

These are actually LED bulbs that look like florescent tubes. They're actually able to convert florescent light to LED with these and a kit. I wonder if they could be modified to include your rainbow LEDs.

Good luck and please update the outcome!

edit: another idea

Honestly, if you get a whip adapter for your bong, you can attach a silicone tube to it and just attach the other end to the QQ. I got mine insanely cheap from dhgate right here, or you can get them off of multiple other websites by searching "whip adapter". A 3/8" inner 1/2" outer diameter tube will work perfect for the whip attachment end(this is the one I bought), but might be a little too big and cover the intake hole of the QQ, I'll check when I get home and update this post.

There's also the option of using a hydrotube on top of the QQ like Matt has done in a video, but you would need a silicone attachment to make it fit right.

Edit: looks like that 3/8” inner diameter tuning is literally the PERFECT SIZE for the mouthpiece, you don't even need to hold it on there, amazing.

A few questions about beer line. I got a great deal on a chest frezer and am building a keezer. I have almost all the parts picked out but need some help with beer line. I was planing on just using this tubing but am now concerned about vinyl flavors in my beer. Honestly the beer will most likely sit in the line for around 48 hours between pours. The two other things I am considering are Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra or Ultra Barrier Silver. I am concerned that I with Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra I will need to extend the lines to much in order to reduce foam. I would really like some insight on the problem I have spent 2 days debating this in my head and would really just like to order some parts so I can enjoy some beer.

1-Get yourself a grinder, got one? Go to 2
2- Grind a quantity of your stash (drier is always better), ground? Go to 3
3- Turn it on,I prefer 165°C for an energetic buzz, 200°C for a body high (results may vary)
4- Using the whip? Go to 5. Bagging it? Go to 8

5- Elbow pack that bad boy. Google elbow packing extreme Q or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07mIhuyDdTY&feature=youtube_gdata_player go to 5
6- Place elbow on cyclone bowl, let it heat for 2 minutes
7- Two deep breaths, one slow DEEP pull, hold it in for 5-10 sec

8- Fill your cyclone bowl loosely, no higher than the bottom of the black heat guard on the bowl
9- Assemble cyclone bowl + elbow + bag
10- Let it heat up for 5 minutes
11- Turn fan on 2. You should be able to see your hand through the bag's vapors. Thick vapors? Fan on 3, Thin vapors? Fan on 1

12- enjoy

P.S. You should look into changing your plastic tubes for this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGG2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn or something alike (I did and it is worth it). Non-toxic, heat resistant and can be cleaned with iso-alcool
P.P.S Also look into purchasing a straight glass reducer (standard 14.4mm labware reducer I think) instead of the elbow, reduced restriction = easier draw and faster bag fill

I would strongly caution against a 35 quart pot. The Bayou Classic 44 quart (11 gallon) pot is only a little more, and it's of dimensions more ameniable to brewing (tall, rather than squat). If you plan to migrate to BiaB, the version with the basket is quite useful; you'll be able to fire your heat source without worrying about scorching the bag.

For ingredients, I would recommend looking around for a LHBS (local homebrew shop). You'll likely not save much money ordering those online, due to their weight/cost ratio, and a LHBS is often the centre of your local community of homebrewers.

With regard to literature, my bible is John Palmer's How To Brew. You can also read the first edition online, but much has been learnt since that was published and the latest edition has current best practices.

That equipment kit is decent, but there are a lot of things in it you'll probably wish you hadn't bought.

You will want:

• 6 gallon primary fermenter carboy
  
• 5 gallon secondary carboy, for dry hopping (can't find any that ship with prime)
  
• A bench capper (wing/emily cappers are cheaper, but it's not worth it)
  
• An autosiphon
  
• A bottling bucket, with spigot
  
• A bottling wand
  
• Sanitizer (Starsan looks more expensive, but a bottle will last a long, long time. Especially if you pick up a spray bottle at the dollar store.)
  
• Two carboy caps and airlocks

When moving kombucha from its fermenting vessel into bottles for consumption, I used to pour it through a funnel straight from the jar, but this really stirs everything up and all of that stuff at the bottom ends up in the bottles. You can run it through a strainer if you want some of the larger particles out, but I bought an autosiphon on Amazon and use this to move kombucha around while leaving the gunk behind.

It has really improved the clarity of the bottles I produce and I think the people I give them to appreciate it, because they seem to be afraid of the stuff that floats around or accumulates on the bottom.

Silicone tubing available off Amazon for about $2.00 a foot. Food grade seems to be most popular for health and longevity reasons. As a bonus I still have a link from my last purchase off tube http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWTRU Sizes are up to you dependant on you gear. Good Luck

If you feel it's the mouthpiece itself (doubtful, but whatever) replace it entirely with a length of 5/16" OD vinyl tubing. The tubing fits perfectly so it won't fall out on its own, and if you replace the mouthpiece screen with the ELB top screen the tube slips perfectly right down into the screen.

I did this on mine because I found the end of the mouthpiece getting too hot. The tubing solves that problem and makes it more convenient to hold as well since you don't have to hold the whole thing up to your face.

Personally though I find it hard to believe the mouthpiece itself is the problem. It has a huge air path running through and unless you've got an armadillo stuck in there I find it much more likely it's the screen.

For my own recommendation I would say do an extract beer can kit. You'll get about 40 bottles of beer out of it.

Almost everything below you can get at your local homebrew shop. In fact, many of these items might be part of a "beer starter kit" etc. I do recommend getting the 5 gallon carboy instead of a kit with pails. You'll thank me later. pails can get messy.

1. Coopers Brew Can Kit ($15) *comes with yeast you need
   
2. A 5 gallon carboy (I recommend a big mouth plastic one) ($20)
   
3. An Airlock for your carboy ($5)
   
4. A 4 foot blowoff tube to attach to the airlock center column ($5)
   
5. An empty 2L pop bottle to use as the blowoff container. (free)
   
6. 1KG of sugar *and some more for bottling later ($2)
   
7. A Hydrometer to take your Specific Gravity readings and a container for the hydrometer $25
   
8. A 5 Gallon pot $30 (I highly recommend you follow the kit or use 3 gallons of water during the heating/boiling as I have done...dont try to boil 5 gallons in a 5 gallon pot)
   
9. An Auto-Siphon for siphoning the beer. $13
   
10. A Wine Thief for stealing the samples from your beer (which you read with the hydrometer and then drink) without disturbing the beer too much and risking infection. $13
    
    Total $128 by my guestimates, but you do get 2 cases of beer out of it and $113 worth of brew equipment. Hell, in Ontario the two cases of beer can easily be more expensive than $128 lol... Not cheap, but everything here you will use over and over and over again (except of course the sugar and the brew kit)
    
    ---------------------------------
    
    The Coopers Can Kit comes with instructions to make your beer, a hopped extract and yeast.
    
    After you make your beer it'll be a few weeks before the fermentation is done (which you'll know by hydrometer readings)
    
    In that time you can start getting your stuff together for bottling and carbonating them.
    
    You'll also need (for bottling) 48 empty clean bottles (cleaned and then sanitized with star-san solution) NON TWIST OFF TYPE
    A handheld Beer capper
    Bottle caps (box)
    
    
    I gotta run, but this was fun to type out. If you need any help, glad to help ya.

I have the EVO too, and I have a whip. Love it!

As a suggestion, the official whip is hella expensive. You can build your own really easily and maybe ch cheaper.

Tubing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOWGGW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then grab a male and female (probably 18mm, 14 if you need it) from Oregon Glass Blower

http://www.oregonglassblower.com/VAPORIZER-ADAPTERS_c5.htm

Done!

I bought mine and love it.

EDIT: I actually just went and looked at vapeXhales site. Their prices have come down since I looked last time.

Hey! I’ve got the same vape and I was just about to clean it. Thankfully I read your post first! I’m also curious about how to clean the whip. I do know that someone told me that they sell that type of piping at Home Depot for SUPER cheap. Maybe cut it up to scrape in smaller pieces and buy a new long piece? Arizer sells a 9ft one too. Good luck!

Edit: here’s the link to some on amazon. I’d read reviews but someone used it with the exact same vape in the pics! link here

I use this with sleeving for a hookah-like vapor-bong experience, very flexible and works well. You can probably find 'medical grade' or something of the sort in the same size if that is something you care about but this type of tubing is used in drink dispensers and whatnot and is safe to 500f so I figure they are safe enough for vaporizer use.

I use a long hose all the time for bags, I don't remember where the original short hose even went.

The only detriment to using a longer hose is you'll get a little more reclaim in the hose as the vapor cools on it's way to the bag. It's not something you're necessarily going to even notice day-to-day.

I will say, do yourself a favor and get some new silicone tubing (the correct size is 5/16" ID, 7/16" OD): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWTSY/

It's much, much easier to clean (you can use alcohol and other solvents), and way more flexible than the standard PVC hoses.

This might be a better investment. I use this for my 2F and it works great. You may also want to get a Air lock and a siphon as well.

Sure no worries, when you get your mind made up
I'll hook you up with what you need, This is very good tubing.
Have you not seen my Videos & Pics.
Tell me exactly what you want to hook up to where, ok. Happy to help if I can
Whip tubing food grade heat to 500 Autoclave-able washable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYAFIU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What glass connects do you need to what?

Yes! That's the one that i have, and i love it.

Is it expensive? Yes.

Are there better alternatives? Probably.

But i absolutely love mine, it is a bit of a beast to disassemble and sanitize every time, but its not overbearing. I just got tired of loosing so much when i racked, and now i barely loose any mead from primary to secondary.

p.s. get these attachments. that way you can easily just let it siphon on its own.

1 & 2

If you want cooler vapor with less draw resistance, add a whip.

Unscrew the plastic tip and push on some Silicon tubing 3/8" Inside Diameter, 1/2" outside diameter. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGGW/

It allows the vapor to cool more, and smooths it out. I like to attach the tip and just kick back for nice long slow sips of vapor.

Ah thanks!

I was considering getting this thing in the future, but it sounds like that spring filler may be better.

What part isn't sealing for you? at the 10/14/18mm joint on your glass? just pick up a insert sizemm whip adapter on dhgate or similar for cheap.

EDIT: I looked at your post history. Maybe your tubing diameter is too large? Ive had great success with this tubing

Cut a one-foot length of food-grade vinyl tubing. You can get 10 feet for $5 on Amazon

Relatively stiff but flexible, and can be sanitized with boiling water. I've been using it for a while and it's great!

I have 5/16" OD tubing in my keezer. Never had a problem with kinking. Once the tubing gets cold it is pretty stiff anyways. (although the 5/16" OD line is more flexible than the 7/16" lines I have, which is actually nice).

My personal preference for beer line is to buy it cheap and replace it often. Not sure what you ordered but this 3/16" x 5/16" beer line is what I use. When you buy it in 100 ft lengths it is extremely cheap... costs me about 70 cents to replace a beer line, which I do a couple times a year. So much easier than trying to do a thorough clean on a line that has had a sour or very dark beer in it. I flush with a little BLC and Star San between kegs but if it looks at all questionable I just replace the line.

This is safe up to 500 degrees. It'll work perfectly for vaping.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TJ9YQU/ref=biss_dp_sa2

I believe you want to select a 5/16" inner diameter.

I am building a keezer. New to kegging. need some help with what gas and liquid lines I need. I bought a 10# CO2 tank, dual body regulator, and a 3 way gas manifold. My plan is to have a high pressure line out of the regulator for a seltzer water keg and also to force carb. then one line to the 3 way manifold for the 3 other taps at serving pressure.

I'm not sure what type of hose I need for each application, length for beer lines/ seltzer water line etc. Any help is much appreciated.

Edit: what about this for beer line? found on HBF... reviews look good. Is the thin wall a concern?
https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Vinyl-Flex-Plastic-Tubing-Length/dp/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Pretty good prices here on Amazon It is slightly thinner than the tubing I got from HBS, but it is still very good. Plenty of sizes, too.

I LOVE my Mash & Boil, especially after I upgraded it. Here are the things I bought for it to do my upgrade. It’s a good amount of money up front but worth it.



CHUGGER PUMP CPSS-CI-1 Stainless Steel 115 Volt Center Home Brewing System Beer Pump, 55” Cord WITH Plug, Inlet 3/4” x Outlet 1/2” MPT, ETL-Certified, USFDA Food Compliant Materials https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HERFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vECLBbD3PTY36


HFS(R) Homebrew Beer Wort Chiller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y41HCFP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


White SiliconeTubing, 1/2"ID, 3/4"OD, 1/8"Wall, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VECLBb3CM7H5Q


MRbrew Quick Disconnect 304 Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TCQF6Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


CONCORD 304 Stainless Steel Quick... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079J5X3XD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Anderson Metals Brass Garden Hose... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMU7U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


LOKMAN Hose Clamp, 20 Pack Stainless Steel Adjustable 13-19mm Range Worm Gear Hose Clamp, Water Pipe Clamp for for Plumbing, Automotive and Mechanical Applications https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077R2PNVT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yHCLBbB7TH7W8


Dernord Full Port Ball Valve Stainless Steel 304 Heavy Duty for Water, Oil, and Gas with Blue Locking Handles (1/2" NPT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076D7WM9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wKCLBbEH1QPR0


HomeBrewStuff Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UI995XG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

IMO the best thing to do is just replace them periodically. You can buy the line in bulk and it should only cost a dollar or so per line to replace.

If you do want to clean the existing lines you don't really need any equipment. Just put some cleaning solution in an empty keg, pressurize, and run it through.

I'm looking to purchase the parts for a 2 tap sankey kegerator and wanted some feedback on before I go ahead and order. everything is through amazon because I have a large amazon gift card.

I already have 2 intertap flow control faucets

coupler-kegco KTS97D-W x2

beer line assembly x2

10 feet of gas line

20# luxfer co2 tank

taprite dual regulator

intertap shanks x2


I'm hoping to pick up a used chest freezer on craigslist. Anything I'm missing? Anything I should change?

I'm pretty sure I got 10 feet from here when I made mine, but searching amazon for "food safe silicone tubing" will give you plenty of options. My "orbiter" was functional and cheap--I had the mason jar lying around already. I've used the tubing for 2 jar-bubblers and some whips now, and it works just fine! I don't have some horrible silicone inhalation disease, at least.

Ok, I just finished this project today! Get the led fairy lights that use AA batteries (they last longer and are brighter) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017N85S6M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and some quantity of 5/16" inner diameter tubing (for aquariums, etc.) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
. Thread lights through tubing (I used picture hanging wire as the "guide" wire), and go a little past the connection to the battery pack. I bought some aquarium tube connectors to seal the ends https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LDFTQI2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , and then wove it between the spokes and attached with small zip ties. Battery packs affixed to spokes with velcro cable ties, for easy on/off for battery change. With the lights coming in 5 packs on Amazon, I did all 3 wheels (yes, trike) and the rest of the frame for under $30. That will buy you 1 1/2 Wheel Brightz.

I bought one of this and it was a HUGE help for bottling. Keep brewing!!!

I've tried those, but none of them ever worked a crap. The best way I've found is to buy a large syringe like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P90N3BY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Attach the tube to the slave cylinder bleeder valve, fill the brake reservoir full, and start sucking fluid out with the syringe until no bubbles are seen, periodically moving the clutch pedal up and down a few times. Then do the master cylinder as well if it has a bleeder. As long as air isn't coming in around the syringe/hose or hose/bleeder interfaces, that should suck all the air out of the system and get you a good hard clutch pedal.

I'd like to do 5 gallon batches. I don't think the quantity from the Mr Beer keg is worth it.

How's this look? Total is around $80.

Fermentation bucket

Bung/airlock

Stock pot

Autosiphon

Star San or Idophor (What's the difference?)

Is there any advantage to having a carboy as well? How long would I leave the beer in the fermentation bucket?

So if I wanted to do sours, I'd basically have to get 2 of everything?

Edit - actually, wouldn't this kit be about the same, but with an extra bucket but no stock pot?

Edit 2 - another pot, 36qt is good price, leaving this here so I can find it again.

I do have some old rubber tubing on the 'out' end of the chiller, so maybe I'll clamp some of this on it to avoid a funky rubber taste.

I'm fairly certain my water is chlorine free, but wouldn't boiling remove the chlorine?

Thanks!

It is solid, but it is pretty squishy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-2bUBbFW5QAHV

I'd avoid using it until you have silicone. Vinyl isn't rated for that temp. I have the Mash and Boil, only recirculated twice. Otherwise, the beer I produce on it, with a random stir here or there in the mash is perfectly fine. Good prices on tubing can be found on Amazon.

I had similar problems with my cage. I got a jar of InstaMorph and made a little cover for the back of the bar. Works perfectly. I also used the slightly bigger ring and threaded it through a piece of Food Grade Vinyl Tubing which both reduces the diameter, but more importantly, makes it non-skin, without being to grippy. If that makes sense.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FXAA0BQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


You only need about an inch of it, but I find all kinds of fun uses for the extra.

yo the max operating temp is listed right there in the listing, it's much lower than desired. You want silicone tubing to be safe. It's also a bit more flexible.

Add a botteling bucket and a wand

It is expensive but PBW is a really good for cleaning.

the answer is all about the type of tubing and metal. I cant give advice on metals but i did have a very similar problem with my vape getting too hot for its plastic tubing. I fixed it by getting high grade silicon tubing, which you can get on amazon for like $1/ft.

http://www.amazon.com/White-SiliconeTubing-ID-Wall-Length/dp/B003TJ9YQU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1342768208&sr=8-4&keywords=high+temp+silicon+tubing

the general rule of thumb is glass, stone, or wood IMO. (you can also use a hallowed out coconut if you can engineer that, just an idea) or even better, a glass soda bottle (preferably w/o lead)

Yeah, I suppose I read that incorrectly. I thought he was advocating for these which are popularly referenced and ones that I use. I guess in my mind I was thinking cumulative not individual.

Below are most of parts that are needed for the kettle and electronics controller. I don't think I forgot anything. You would obviously need to be a little handy and have some tools like files, a drill, etc.

--

Let me know if you have any other questions!

--



Item| Count | Cost | Link
---|---|----|----
Kettle - SS Brewtech 15 gal|1|$239.00|https://www.homebrewsupply.com/ss-brewtech-15-gallon-stainless-steel-kettle.html
Weldless 1.5" TC|1|$24.00|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TC15WLF
Hole saw for 1.5" weldless TC|1|$19.00|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=holesaw40
Pump|1|$94.99|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Mark2SS
Tri-Clamp Fitting|1|$7.48|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073J5MHRP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/2" bulkhead|1|$8.50|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJI0TH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/2" Npt ball valve for pump|1|$12.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0734QDGZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/2" ID silocne tubing|1|$19.61|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Q6QF9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Spray Wort Aerator|1|$6.66|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5J8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
||||
Electronics|||
10x8x6 Wall Mount Box w/ 40A heatsink|1|$75.55|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=616
RTD probe|1|$64.95|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=767
High Amp Main Switch|1|$12.00|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_32&products_id=586
120v 15A Socket|2|$1.95|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=274
120v 10A Rocker Switch|2|$1.80|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_32&products_id=435
Fuse holder (pack of 5)|1|$2.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQWXW9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nema L6-30 socket 30A 240V|1|$12.39|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NAT9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nema L14-30 Extension cord for main power|1|$56.00|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072F8P2SN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nema L6-30 Power cord for Element|1|$29.95|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07935M281/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
240v 5500W heating element|1|$60.00|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KCJX8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Inkbird PID temp Controller|1|$23.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LQ8TPDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought mine from Amazon.

Someone once told me that Tractor Supply sold them in the livestock care section or whatever. I can tell you that none of the stores near me do. And if you ask someone in the store "I would like to buy a really big syringe" they look at you very strange.

This is just a little more and a lot better suited.

i got a pair of kegs during AIH's sale as well and i'm also new to kegging.

On your first question, here's what I'm doing:

• build video
  
• fridge: danby DAR044A5BSLDD
  
• regulator
  
• co2 tank
  
• tap
  
• couplers
  
• beer line
  
• gas line
  
• drip tray
  
  and of course the two 5 gallon ball lock kegs from AIH.
  
  

A quick google: https://www.amazon.com/White-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Grade/dp/B003TJ9YQU

I have read somewhere else on this board that, as long as it is food grade, it is safe to use.

You'll have to check yourself if this tube seals with your glass. I don't have a DBV, so I can't check it for you.

I can only see flair in comments as I am on mobile. I was going to say you can pickup a new whip from vapexhal. I found this one on amazon that may also be worth checking out.

https://www.amazon.com/White-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Grade/dp/B003TJ9YQU

It sounds like it’s the beverage line. I’ve been skeptical of any pvc tubing that’s not from a reputable manufacturer (like Bevlex 200 by Kuriyama) after purchasing this product which was certainly expediting oxidation—in the lines, and also in the keg. I had what I think is a similar issue to yours when I had carbonated water through the same beverage tubing I linked.

Maybe someone has some further insight. I might try purchasing some Bevlex 200 and try again, or just switch to a different non-PVC high quality tubing.

If you're going to try this make sure to use food grade silicon tubing like this one: http://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Grade-Silicone-Tubing/dp/B00FXAA0BQ

What about something like this? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWTRU/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Grade-Silicone-Tubing/dp/B00FXAA0BQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527258958&sr=8-2&keywords=high+temp+silicone+tubing+food+grade
something like this is what it use.

Apologies everyone, it is 1.5 ft!
This is what I'm using for line:

ATP Vinyl-Flex PVC Food Grade Plastic Tubing, Clear, 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD, 100 feet Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_k8sXCbX7X23X0

It's been kegged for about a 3 and a half weeks, for the first three days I had it at about 35psi and shook the keg every once in awhile.

Any thoughts?

Also, I used
https://www.kegerators.com/beer-line-calculator/&ved=2ahUKEwjN6efthYziAhVNVK0KHS3IA3YQFjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw1jEPO-k0HSm64SfkmIaLPF&cshid=1557322369643
to calculate the length

If it's the stock tube (which it probably is if you haven't replaced it) then its vinyl. Vinyl will degrade in ISO. Order some silicone tubing as its alcohol safe and more flexible. I used this when I had an EQ. You want 5/16" interior 7/16" outer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYAFIU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lb4-yb3RTJ243

Angled clearomizer, just the tip, or try to fit this on somehow and leave the pv where ever.

Eek, those vinyl hoses on the HLT and mash tun!

Edit: This is worth the 16 bucks.

If it's a 1 gallon batch get the mini siphon:
https://www.amazon.com/Fermtech-Mini-Auto-Siphon-3-8-inch/dp/B0064ODL1G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498080342&sr=8-2&keywords=brew+siphon

if its 3-6 gallons get the big one:
https://www.amazon.com/Regular-Auto-Siphon-feet-Tubing/dp/B00AYHS7ZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498080342&sr=8-1&keywords=brew+siphon

They all work fine.

You can find 100' for about $12 delivered on Amazon Prime. Sometimes < $10 if you're watching. For example. I would buy 100' for 12 cents/ft so you save money now and have enough to replace your lines later.

I much prefer white silicone tubing over the stock vinyl-silicone tubes in most vapes. It will get dirtier quicker, can kink, and is more expensive. But its more flexible and more inert (no break in smell+taste and you can soak it in iso to get all of the honey oil off).

This is the Amazon link for the sized used by the DaBuddha

The tubes are all silicone. It's rather expensive, but it's rated to 260°C (500°F)

I got this one but for that type of fitting, you'd want 1/2" ID probably (I had to buy larger tubing locally because that particular one was a little too thin).

This works pretty well.

I usually get 25' of the 1/4" Inside Diameter, and cut to size.

Ninja edit: got my numbers all wrong. This is the one I use. Takes some work to get it on to the glass tube with the ridges, but once it's on there. it'll stay for a while.

> I sort of envision myself as the caterpillar from Alice in Wonderland when I vape with this and it just doesn't have that reach required. I should get a longer tube.

Do what I did and get a silicone tube, it comes in a 10 ft length and you can cut it to whatever length you like. Silicone also gives less plastic taste than the default vinyl in my opinion.

This is the 3/8" copper wort chiller that I have.

.

This is the tubing which I bought separately and have been using until now.

.

This is the tubing I'm considering purchasing.

http://www.amazon.com/White-SiliconeTubing-ID-Wall-Length/dp/B003TJ9YQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395953509&sr=8-1&keywords=silicone+tubing+5%2F16+inner+diameter

You replaced the beer lines, but with the same internal diameter? I almost made this mistake when hooking up my keezer, using gas line for beer line (mine are both clear). If the diameter is too large it will foam. I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/ATP-Vinyl-Flex-Plastic-Tubing-Length/dp/B00E6BCXQ8

You can replace your tubing with silicone tubing. I use it in home brewing - it is inert even at high temperatures.

https://www.amazon.com/White-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Grade/dp/B003TJ9YQU

this should up your game a bit: https://www.amazon.com/White-SiliconeTubing-ID-Wall-Length/dp/B003TJ9YQU/ref=sr_1_13?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1467824434&sr=1-13

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=54036&catid=799

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http://www.amazon.com/White-SiliconeTubing-ID-Wall-Length/dp/B000FOWGGW/ref%3Dsr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1295051729&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Vinyl-Flex-Plastic-Tubing-Length/dp/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523453164&sr=8-4&keywords=100ft+of+food+grade+pvc&dpID=41q-6Dv4C5L&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I use this tubing for my draft line tho. it is more than likely smaller then your tubing.

Obviously way more than you need, but here's 10' 1/4ID 3/8 OD for $9.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGG2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Vinyl Tubing - 10 feet 5/16 ID - 7/16 OD (Food Grade) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000E62TCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G7d6BbHPD31ZP

I use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGGW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

3/16

This is what I bought for beer lines. It takes about 8 feet for proper flow rate. I've heard of people getting off flavors because they used the vinyl hose at high heat.

5/16" I.D. x 7/16" O.D. Silicone... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYAFIU0

What he has is vinyl tubing. High Temp Silicone tubing is what he needs.

http://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Grade-Silicone-Tubing/dp/B00FXAA0BQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421028067&sr=8-1&keywords=high+temp+silicone+tubing

Never heard of it. But here's the parts to do that.
Carbonation cap with fittings.
Mini CO2 regulator with adapter
Co2 Tank
Tubing
Hose clamps.

You could try a racking cane

Another option: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWTSY/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

especially if you use this stuff

Here's what you are looking for on Amazon

Im using this

Hey sorry I didn't answer for so long. I got mine here. Internal diameter must be 1/4 inch to accommodate the stem. I went with an overall diameter of 3/8 inch. The skinnier stuff is a little cheaper I think but you don't want it to be too skinny or else it'll fold in on itself.

That is a 3/8" ID hose on a 5/16" barb.

Edit: Actually I'm not confident if that is the 5/16" or the 1/4" barb. I swap out the gas and liquid locks all the time and I haven't paid attention to which barb is in there.

Its a ghetto setup :D I use silicone tubing which mounts on to the easy valve and use a 18mm male at the other end. I use a bong without any percolators since I'm afraid that any back pressure on the pump of the Volcano might damage it. I'll try and post a photo of the setup
This is the tubing I use, its the same size as the set on the Plenty
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOWGGW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No problem. These are them. http://www.amazon.com/White-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Grade/dp/B003TJ9YQU. The tube really doesn't get hot at all so it's not much to worry about. They are food grade. I get 5/16 inner diameter and 1/2 outer. I was a little off about the price though. It's about $2/ft

Without a proper airlock, the brewing vessel is either going to build up pressure and pop, or it's going to let in all sorts of things from the air, and would be about as safe as any attempt to drink grape juice that's been sitting out on the counter for a few weeks.

It's possible to brew this way, but it's almost guaranteed to end up poorly. There's a very high chance of it going bad, that is, of growing mold or other unwanted microbiotic visitors. You'll probably be able to see this happen.

Even if it doesn't work, the end result will most likely be one of the nastiest forms of wine you've ever had. It's not quite prison hooch, but it'll be close.

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If you and your friends really want to try and get into brewing on the cheap, my suggestion is to start with an airlock and bung like these, find a gallon of apple juice or apple cider at the grocery store in a glass bottle with no preservatives (check the label), and drop in 1/4 of a packet of a brewing yeast like this one. It's a very beginner friendly (and kinda harsh) yeast that will survive mistreatment and bad conditions no problem. You put the yeast in the apple juice, you put a little water in the airlock, you put the airlock on the jug, and wait a month. You'll want to get a food safe hose to siphon out the brew when it's done, and you'll need bottles to age it in (the stuff will taste bad at first but give it 5-8 months and you'll have somethign wonderful). When the brew finishes that first month, fill up the bottles and seal them, then keep them somewhere cool for 5-8 months. Note: you'll need clean glass bottles, and you'll want to sanitize them or else any bugs in there will make the brew go bad while it ages. I like swing top bottles, they don't require a capper machine or a supply of caps.

Total cost to brew up a simple tasty cider, including all supplies:

• ~8$ for the gallon jug of cider to start.
  
• ~2$ for a pack of EC1118 yeast (the amazon link above is for 5 packets)
  
• ~3$ for an airlock and a bung
  
• ~18-20$ for a half dozen 16oz swing top bottles
  
• ~5$ for a hose
  
  Coming out to less than 50$ to get started, and most of that you won't have to buy again for later brews. If you find a local homebrewing shop you might be able to get these things cheaper... or not. At least you should be able to find them in single packs instead of amazon's bulk sets.

Your lines are too short. Even with your 4mm line, 1.5 meters isn't nearly enough. Try 3.35m (11ft) of 4.8mm (3/16") ID at 12 PSI for your average keezer. Here's a cheap option.

You don't want to drop your pressure as your beer will slowly lose carbonation.

When I moved, I dissasembled everythiing for shipping and cleaned them in the process. My lines are a bit old, but I wash/rinse/sanitize everything before kegging. I actually just ordered this a few weeks ago and have been meaning to put it on. Maybe I'll go ahead and do that and see if that fix's my problem. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've got 9' of beer line currently on 2 of 3 of my taps. 5' on the other one which i generally use for stouts and other low carb beers. How much extra line are you thinking? 12'?

Honestly i dont know...i used it when i first built my 5 tap keezer and have since moved to using this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCXQ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Way cheaper, way more of it and i havent noticed a difference in beer taste at all.

I hated how rigid the bevseal line is, it made installing and finding places to hide the large coils when moving stuff around inside the keezer a giant pain in the ass

This other stuff is much easier to recoil into a tight coil, throw some zip ties around and move to the corners of my keezer. I wont be going back to bevseal, even if its given to me. Installing it is a god damn nightmare, and removing it from my shanks was just as painful.