Reddit mentions: The best inspection & analysis products

>How many do I need for this property?

This is dependent on your needs and budget. Are you wanting just to see if someone is outside, or ensure you can get a positive ID when providing the police the footage?

>What is the best place to position them so that I get coverage but minimal false alarms from the neighbors' driveway?

The position is question, but remember that you can also adjust the cameras so they aren't facing areas where you do not want/need to see. There is also the ability to create customer motion zones to eliminate false alarms.

>What equipment do I need besides the cameras? I know I have to fish Cat 5e cable to where they are mounted.

Not sure exactly what you mean, so I will answer fully:

1. Network equipment
   
   1. POE Switch
      
   2. Cloudkey Gen2 Plus (this is the controller for the Unifi Protect system
      
2. Installation equipment
   
   1. Wire fishing kit (as you mentioned)
      
   2. Stud finder
      
   3. Boro/Endoscope to ensure there are not electrical/piping in the walls before you attempt to drill down
      
      1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785H3XR7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
         
   4. Conduit for areas where the cables cannot be hidden (this is also based on your preference for seeing cables/worrying about animals or people messing with the cables)
      
   5. Ethernet crimper (I suggest getting the kind that allows you to crimp and cut the pass-through terminals, which are much easier and faster to terminate)
      
      1. https://www.amazon.com/Shielded-Goldplated-pieces-Platinum-connector/dp/B079CV7LQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=cat5e+shielded+connector+pass+through&qid=1566091353&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1N0Q4RzRLQUlQTjImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4Mzk5OTMzU0xFVVdHN1ZMQlJZJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzODc0NzZaTVpVTlVZUFhYQTUmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
         
      2. https://www.amazon.com/Pass-Thru-Ethernet-Connector-Reliable-Crimping/dp/B07PZL18MX/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=32GHESZ91W5XP&keywords=ethernet+crimping+tool+pass+thru&qid=1566091399&s=gateway&sprefix=ethernet+crimping+tool+pass%2Celectronics%2C177&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyU1NXVEJJSk84WFI2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTE3NTM3MktaNllSMjZTRTNFVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzM2NTczMlBSMldDVFQ2S04yVSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
         
   6. Network cable. I opted to use the Ubiquity ToughCable, which is rated to be buried/used in the air. Even still, I used non metallic flexible conduit to run it outside and under my front yard to my tree. Nonetheless, you will want to ensure you have plenty of cat5e cable. Shielded is good, but you must also buy the shielded connectors, and install them correctly.
      
   7. Ethernet lighting suppression (there are many options - I linked to what I bought). These will be installed outside, and should you either get a lightning strike, or someone cuts the cable and shorts something, or attempts an ESD attack, this will save the networking equipment.
      
      1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078PDRW12/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
         
   8. Power drill, ladder, and friends.
      
      > How big of a concern is it for the cameras to be attacked if they are at a reachable height?
      
      Inside your porch area? I don't think it would be much of a concern. I would just ensure you have 1 or more cameras that cannot be reached easily, which cover the area around the cameras which can be accessed.
      
      > How big of a concern is it if the attacker wears a broad brim hat and the cameras are high up?
      
      Okay, this helped me understand more of what you want. You cannot really install the camera exactly where you would want to, in order to get a full face image from someone wearing a hat, who is intending to hide from a camera. However, with multiple cameras, you will get features that can help. I would also say that I am interested in getting this the Ring Doorview cam for this exact reason.
      
      Some of what I did, and learned:
      
      ​
      
      I just did my security system 2 months ago. I spent a few weeks planning:
      
      

• Laser scanned the home
  
  • This allowed me to preview the views of different camera positions
    
  • This also helped me find the best ways to run the cables
    
• Figured out the cable routing
  
• Got friends to help when it came time to install through the attic and 2nd floor soffits, and dig trenches.
  
  Ended up with 7 G3-AF, 2 G3-AF-Pro, and 2 G4-Pro
  
  1 G4-Pro just above the front door (This is awesome, as when it detects motion, the blue circular light spins, which makes EVERYONE look up at it. I get a 4k image of their face, just a foot from their nose)
  
  1 G4 Pro above driveway
  
  Both G3-AF-Pro are facing the street and zoomed in to get license plates
  
  The other 7 G3 are positioned around the home to ensure I have 360 view of the exterior of the home, & covered each entry point with at least 2 cameras.
  
  PM me if you want to know more, or see anything. For obvious reasons, I wont post pictures publicly.

Depends on the tank. A six year tank doesn't have an anode rod in the top, but one can easily be added because the bung is almost always there. If yours is from 2008 and has an anode rod, pull it out. Order yourself an inexpensive borescope to inspect the interior of the tank (those borescopes are great to have - a thousand different applications around the house and garage). If all looks good, replace the anode rod. You said you saw a little water around the bottom: identify the source. It very well could just be the drain valve. They're replaceable.

If it turns out the tank needs replaced, you can get a new one from a big box store or local plumbing supply house for well under $1000. They're not difficult to install, but whether you wanna DIY it or not depends on your plumbing prowess. If you do it yourself, lines have to be copper 18" off the water heater and you need shutoff valves on both sides. Hardest part about the job is getting the old one out to the curb where it will mysteriously disappear within 45 minutes, and that's not tough with a helper and a hand dolly.

A tankless water heater is definitely another option, equally as cost effective as a traditional water tank. The electrical is not difficult to run - provided you have good access - and unlimited hot water is great. When my water heater finally bites the dust, I'll be replacing with a tankless gas unit.

As for your wife: that's an issue separate from the water heater. I will say that an electric water heater requires a clear working space of 30" wide by 36" deep in front of the service area of the water heater per NEC 110.26(A)(2) because a tankless electric water heater counts as "electrical equipment." The closet is for the water heater and maybe a broom, not for stuff. It's a service space.

If you are willing to wait for shipping you can get similar things a lot cheaper from china:

• https://www.aliexpress.com/item/37-in-1-box-Sensor-Kit-For-Arduino-Starters-keyes-brand-in-stock-good-quality-low/32307553070.html
  
• https://www.aliexpress.com/item/16pcs-lot-Raspberry-Pi-3-Raspberry-Pi-2-Model-B-the-sensor-module-package-16-kinds/32643577683.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000023.2.1d414c20K97PLj
  
  They all vary in what sensors they include and can take weeks to ship but for the price these can be better value.
  
  Whether they are worth it or not in another matter - you will not likely use 90% of the components in them and can simply buy the things you need a lot cheaper individually. In addition to this you quite often need more than the single sensor of a particular type that they come with so you normally end up needing to buy more separately regardless.
  
  What they are good for is if you want to experiment with a large number of different sensors or want a collection of them for random projects in the future and don't want to wait for shipping to prototype something in the future.
  
  It might be better to start with a general electronics starter kit rather than a sensor kit (ie one that comes with basic components like resistors, caps, button, leds etc) as these are good for a variety of projects and the parts that come in kits like this are often bought in larger quantities or more expensive when bought separately and are generally more useful to a wider range of projects (when combine with specific sensors that you can buy separately). Such as:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elegoo-Electronics-Potentiometer-tie-points-Breadboard/dp/B01LZRV539/ref=pd_cp_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=31ZJFMC30HC99EV408Y0

These are awesome, but I have to say I prefer the real thing. Cutaway Creations makes these for car shows and they are really awesome. They also have very high resolution images of their displays on this site (just look for the enlarge button).

On a completely separate note, if you really want to see something cool, I recently got one of these inspection cameras, which allows you to see inside your engine and take a video of it as well. I think it's super cool and definitely worth the $90 price.

I'm trying not to sound like some Ultimate Ears shill here, I really am just a fan of them, and in any case try these for yourself if you can before you buy to see what you think:

I have a UE Megaboom, which sounds amazing, and it's 22.6cm tall and 8.3cm diameter, which isn't really too big at all. It fits comfortably in the side drinks pouch on my Osprey Kestrel 48, and weighs about 900g.

If weight is a concern definitely consider the UE Roll, which already has straps on it to attach to a bag, or the slightly larger UE Boom 2.

I think all 3 sound excellent for their size, they're all IPX7 waterproof (I submerged my Megaboom in a river and it's completely unaffected). I think the Boom 2, is really the price/performance champ here, since it was recently upgraded from the original Boom model.

All 3 charge through regular MicroUSB, which is convenient too.

C'mon people! Let's think outside the toolbox. And I'm pressing on this not so much for OP's husband but myself!

Think of all the things you've bought out of necessity (or a whim) and wonder how you lived without. Different people will say router or hand planer or dremel or Kreg jig... all could be great but those are all YMMV and depend on what you have and what you do. Let's pick some things that most people don't have. So to get it started, how about an endoscope. That's the one I got and it works great for the $15 price.

I'm glad you found out about the drywall saw. One other thing I've found super helpful is one of these USB cameras. It's super helpful to be able to drill a 1/2" hole and pop them behind a hall or drop them down behind an appliance. I even got a long 50' one and attached it to a drain snake and was able to find my mainline blockage so I could take care of it.


https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Anykit-Semi-Rigid-Waterproof-Inspection/dp/B07JP9TPCS/

If you are looking for a really small video camera, I use this one mounted under a toy quadcopter to take videos. It's not fantastic, but it works good enough to play around with.

I also got one of these when I was doing some work in my house. It lets you see down drainpipes and into walls. Doesn't work all that great, to be honest.

It really depends on what you're doing most of the time.

General tools:

small 4 lb short sledge hammer,

carpenter's hammer,

ball peen hammer,

shot / no recoil hammer,

small pry bar,

flat pry bar for wood related prying tasks,

large pry bar,

lineman's pliers,

needle nose pliers,

hemostats (great for holding small things),

good battery powered drill,

good battery powered driver (use it for putting in screws and bolts, don't use a drill for anything other than drilling. The number of screws that you don't strip out any longer will amaze you)

a cheap USB endoscope (like this one) that you can hook up to your smart phone is amazingly handy when you need to see in very tight spaces / drill a small hole to see inside something,

a set of needle files,

a large bastard file,

a smooth file for fine work,

a breaker bar for tough lugnuts and the like,

a torque wrench if you can spare the money and ever bolt things together that need very specific amounts of torque when they're tightened (car parts, motorcycle parts, etc),

a floor jack that is rated for more than your vehicle weighs,

a set of metric allen wrenches,

a set of SAE / imperial allen wrenches,

a bubble level / carpenter's level,

a small carpenter's square,

a large carpenter's square,

a metal ruler,

a measuring tape,

a plumb bob - cheap and fantastically easy way of making sure things are straight up and down,

a chalk line for marking long straight lines on concrete, wood, etc,

a metal hack saw,

a basic wood hand saw,

a coping saw,

a multi-bit screwdriver,

channel lock pliers,

a pipe wrench (know when to use one vs the others!),

an adjustable wrench (to be used sparingly and carefully to avoid stripping nuts),

and a shop brush.

That should cover most of the basics!

I'm sure I don't remember them all, but the last two cool/useful things were:

A bluetooth OBD-II reader. Diagnose check engine lights, look at various performance metrics, real time monitoring... pretty cool for 50 bucks.

A wireless borescope like this one. I bought it to help run some wires for a new thermostat, but I can see it being really useful in a lot of applications.

Well, I'm looking for battery-powered speakers that would be good for outdoor camping. Not too concerned about portability/size just as long as it's carryable and has a battery life of around +8 hours. Will mostly be used to play tech house so good sounding bass would be a nice-to-have. Price range from €90-150.

Would the bigger systems such as the Caliber HPG512BT 2.1 system 21W Tube Black and Ion Audio Tailgater Bluetooth 50W be naturally better than the smaller UE BOOM 2 type speakers?

I'm no audiophile so just looking for opinions on what I should be looking out for here. I found the above from a quick amazon search. Thanks!

If you havent already got one, one of these should be in everybody's box.

makes it super easy to make sure you got it all :)

As others have said - it REALLY looks like it's there for a reason. My bet is that it's a sewer cleanout vent... which is there so that a plumber can snake your sewer if there's a blockage before it causes a huge problem. If you're smelling it, it could be the sign of a serious problem- residential sewers should generally not put off a strong sewer smell (generally hydrogen sulfide gas).

If you ARE getting a strong smell, it could be from a few things, including a broken/blocked line somewhere, or even a sewer backup, where something is pushing sewage down INTO your sewer, instead out out from it (this may particularly be the case if you notice the smell after say, heavy rains in the area). Both those problems could be serious, and should be looked into.

I'd talk to a plumber, BUT if you'd rather do that as a last step before trying some things yourself, two suggestions:

1. MAYBE it's some kind of drain and the landscaping isn't what someone thought it'd be. If so, there might be a P-trap of some kind there. A trick an old plumber taught me is to put some olive oil down the drain, which should stop the odor (say, a cup or less should do the trick)
   
2. If you want to troubleshoot a bit, you can get a cheap waterproof(-ish) camera like one of these, roughly $25 off Amazon. It'll connect to a computer or Android phone and let you get some idea of what's underneath there - though obviously you'd want to wash it thoroughly after. You could try that, or even just fish tape, to see if there IS a p-trap of some kind, and see if there's any blockage, or anything else.
   
   If you're really curious and want to make find out definitively what's going on, I'd call a plumber, explain the issue (smell coming from some kind of PVC pipe in your yard), and say you don't know what's going on but you want them to come and scope your sewer. Doing that, they can tell you if there's a blockage, as well as how deep your sewer is and potentially find problems before they become more serious. It might be an easy fix, like snaking the blockage, or the plumber might even tell you you're good to just stuff an appropriately sized rubber ball in the thing and call it a day.

Don't overthink it before you move in and have a chance to survey the situation in detail. Heat vents, cold air returns, plumbing, and electrical conduit all pass through from one level to another. There's usually enough gap in at least some of them to snake coax or ethernet alongside. If you have to drill holes, inside a closet can work.

​

I use an antenna in the attic for over-the-air TV. With an in-line amplifier, that gives me enough signal strength 26 miles from downtown Chicago. Coax goes down through the ceiling inside a closet, right by the doorframe, then down along the frame molding, through the floor into the basement utility area. Disguised well enough I don't think the wife even knows it's there. 3-way splitter goes to 1. a wall plate in the basement Man Cave, 2. snaked up alongside a cold air return to the living room TV, 3. snaked up alongside shower cold water pipe to a wall plate for the bedroom TV.

​

Before wifi was a thing, I had ethernet cable going everywhere via similar paths. Now, cable for the router comes into the basement utility area near the electric power panel. I chose to keep the router in the basement, as I could get good signal everywhere in our 1 story house. Might be different if we had a bigger house with upstairs bedrooms.

​

I picked my cable routes by luck and careful measuring. These days, technology makes it possible to check out what's behind walls, etc. with only a small access hole.

If you do need an endoscope i really like this $20 i got from amazon..

It comes with a few accesories including a hook which is perfect for dragging rings out of P traps that are set in concrete so you cant open them up.

Its also surprisingly useful been able to see inside the wall when trying to feed wiring down from the attic.

I would also recommend something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Fantronics-Endoscope-Waterproof-Borescopes-Inspection/dp/B01CL1QUCW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504374293&sr=8-3&keywords=android+inspection+camera

Or the equivalent for an iPhone if that's what you've got. Super cheap and not very good, but it'll work well enough once for you to snake it down there and maybe see where the key is. I bought one of these a while back and though it's pretty crappy video, I have used it half a dozen times already so for <$15 I think it's well worth it.

If you have access to something behind them I would stick a bright ass light in there. That will drive them out since they hate light. That should drive them out. If you have something like an LED flashlight that would stay cool enough I wouldn't hesitate to leave it in there for a few hours.

The urine and feces can have bacteria and parasites in it that can be harmful, not to mention the smell. It's going to be tough to know just how much is up there and what dealing with it would entail given the tight space.

Since you have access somewhat you could buy a cheap endoscope camera ($18 Amazon) and have a look around and make a decision from there. It could involve vacuuming out all the insulation and feces and then having fresh stuff blown in after you spray a disinfectant and deodorizer in the space.

One thing with eliminating the smell that is a priority is the scent will attract others to the space, so make sure when you board it up at least spray something like OdoBan all around inside the opening before covering it, and then clean off the gutter and downspout outside the hole as well.

I've got two drones but depending on the space it might be impossible to get in there and see anything safely - maybe something like this would work better/easier?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MYTHWK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505512430&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=flexible+camera+scope&dpPl=1&dpID=41MF0hUWJXL&ref=plSrch

So something like this, with a pair of needle-nose pliers could help. Use the camera to push it to where the pliers can get to it.

​

Good luck!

AvE reviewed one of these jobbies awhile back. Durable? Probably not if you're using it all day every day, but for 20 bucks max? Sold.

Some come with little attachments too, like little mirrors, magnets, and hooks. And like 15 feet of cable.

UE Boom 2 & JBL Charge 2+. I love both of these. Both waterproof. JBL Charge 2+ has a better bass. But the UE Boom 2 has 360 sound.

Endoscopes are pretty inexpensive. Make sure the one you purchase has a light at the end of it.

(Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Semi-rigid-Endoscope-Smartphones-Inspection/dp/B01D8HJ2JG/ref=br_lf_m_j56tqezvgdxm83k_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=photo)

This is exactly what I would do to identify what fell in there. With a boroscope type camera, there isn't really a reason to tear down an otherwise good engine, you simply put this through the spark plug hole. The better systems have small magnetic tools you can use to pick things up. If they don't have one they should buy one as it will come in handy in the future.

What I've used at work: High End

What I use at home: Cheap Home Use

I wonder if something like a cheap boroscope would help in situations like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CL1QUCW/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_-VEjybVHEX9A6

Thread the camera end thru the cabin air duct, watch the screen, thread it deeper, repeat.

Look up "scoping the change key hole" for more

https://books.google.com/books?id=rVFkBgAAQBAJ&lpg=PA57&dq=scoping%20the%20change%20key%20hole&pg=PA61#v=onepage&q=scoping%20the%20change%20key%20hole&f=false

The important information is on page 61 and 62.

I have done this. Took me 4 hours. Drill a small hole for a scope below where you think the bottom of the locking door ends with a couple inches to spare, maybe 5" below the top of the door. Preferably in an inconspicuous spot. Bend and insert the scope, angle up and hope the change key hole isn't covered by a plate. The follow the process in the above link to determine the combo, then use that combo to open the safe.

scope: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/

Mine had a 2nd door below that needed a key. You could always pick that too if you have one. Or just cut the whole thing off.

ty, i will give it a look. wow $18.


https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-Waterproof-Borescope-Endoscope-Inspection/dp/B01M63KHKN/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486245357&sr=8-1&keywords=duct+camera

FYI everyone, endoscopes of very useful lengths are available for ~$40 and connect to your phone so it's no longer the specialty equipment that it once was

https://smile.amazon.com/Semi-rigid-Endoscope-Borescope-Inspection-Smartphone/dp/B0785H3XR7/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=depstech&qid=1554361604&s=gateway&sr=8-3

You'd be surprised how cheap a boroscope is. I got * this one on a similar sale and used it to check a vent. If your vent is largely a straight shot, this would work well for seeing a relevant clog.

It's an Amazon link.

(1) buy a breadboard starter kit, battery/power supply, audio sockets, 10K, 100K, 1M potentiometers, a set of leaded resistors and capacitors, and a few diodes.

e.g. something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELEGOO-Electronics-Potentiometer-tie-points-Breadboard/dp/B01LZRV539/ will provide most of what you need.

You'll need to buy potentiometers as well. e.g. http://futurlec.com/PotRot.shtml

(2) buy a few CD40106 "Hex Schmitt triggers" - these are the core of your square wave oscillators. Each chip gives you 6 oscillators. More than enough for a drone.

http://www.ti.com/product/CD40106B?keyMatch=CD40106&tisearch=Search-EN-Products.

http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/cd40106b.pdf

They are common and cheap, and you can run them from 3V to 18V (absolute maximum)

(3) Read and build this http://www.fluxmonkey.com/electronoize/40106Oscillator.htm, and that will start you off.

(4) Start addings LEDs to the outputs of your oscillators so you can see what's happening in your circuit.

(5) Advanced: learn how to use op-amps, so you can do proper mixing, low/high pass filters, etc. These are usually "cookbook" circuits. Just learn how to make a few, and repeat them.

I borrowed one of these from a buddy.

DEPSTECH Wireless Endoscope, WiFi Borescope Inspection 2.0 Megapixels HD Snake Camera for Android and iOS Smartphone, iPhone, Samsung, Tablet -Black(11.5FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j3LjDbGN7D7BB

Made a huge difference. I was able to start with small easy to patch holes while I was figuring out the route and made sure I wasn't going to put my hole saw through an electrical cable. Almost felt like cheating.

I picked up this camera from Amazon and a USB to micro USB adapter. Works great with standard apps, probably works on a computer too but I didn't try. Has its own light, plus mirror and other accessories. Small enough to fit down a spark plug hole and use as a bore scope. For awkward spaces, bend some solid wire around the cord and fish as needed.

Can't beat the flexibility for the price.

You could get an endoscope camera like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Fantronics-Endoscope-Waterproof-Borescopes-Inspection/dp/B01CL1QUCW/ref=zg_bs_401578011_1

A look inside the hopper might help you figure it out.

1. Buy a box of commercial ammo.
   
   
2. If it still will not drop into the chamber EASILY, take it to someone with a borescope, or pick one up yourself. They are cheap on amazon. Amazon Link

I've actually had a ton of luck with this: Depstech Wireless Endoscope, WiFi Borescope Inspection 2.0 Megapixels HD Snake Camera for Android and iOS Smartphone, iPhone, Samsung, Tablet -Black(11.5FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_93X8BbMDFSYGB

It creates a wifi hotspot that you connect your phone or tablet to, and then through an app you can see the camera video. It's much cheaper than some of the Dewalt, Milwaukee, and similar items.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V8A6CSU/ref=pd_aw_sbs_421_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51ASNGjykOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0ZCFPWAN54RVA65W7V0S

This is just the first one I saw. I have a 50 foot one I bought to inspect a sewer main. Plugs into my laptop, works great.

If you're planning on keeping it call a pro or work with it personally over time. Either way get a wire cam from Amazon, drill an easily repaired hole and have a peek inside to see if it's worth the effort.

Depends on what type of footage you need and whether it needs to be standalone I suppose. You can buy one of those self contained endoscope cameras like this which records to an SD card. Quality isn't going to be stellar but I'm guessing something like that's more fitting to your requirements than looking for an actual camera.

You can probably take off some outlet covers & poke around.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JERRES6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UGFSybT4QKAP0

I like using this to probe inside walls. I tape it to the end of wire fishing rods to go up vertically. Just gotta find an entry point. Outlet, light switch, etc. or just make a whole where it's easy to hide.

Drill the back, use a flexible scope to see if there's anything inside. It's worth nothing more than scrap value in its current condition anyway.

Boroscope and some sort of pickup claw may be your friend in this situation.

http://www.amazon.com/Whistler-9mm-Wireless-Inspection-Camera/dp/B005L3HZGS/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1376791435&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=whistler+9mm+camera

I have one of these and it works great. The display comes off and has a swivel magnet to stick it where you want. Yes the display is a little smaller than the snapon but it is also 1/6th the cost.

Personally, I wouldn't buy a slab-on-grade home with HVAC in the slab unless I could inspect it closely myself. I built a house on a slab for myself a few years ago and all HVAC ducts are above grade.

I did all the plumbing under the slab with solid core PVC. With proper clean-out placement I expect to never have a plumbing problem that can't be easily solved. I wouldn't worry much about the plumbing so long as there are clean-outs.

If I were in your shoes I would be finding an inspection camera to take a look at the condition of the under-slab duct work or finding someone that knows how to use one. Something like this...

https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Borescope-Waterproof-Inspection-Adjustable/dp/B01N19YCC3

Yes its on Amazon for $36.99

https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Depstech-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HYRPND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fun oscilloscope borescope. I've used it to look inside my wife's engine to look at the cylinder heads. If you do get this or one like it; Get the App OTG View rather than the one recommended (that one steals your information).

Edit: oops

You can buy many different USB endoscopes (camera with light) for like $20 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63KHKN

They often work with cell phones or a computer

There is probably a bottle cap or kid's toy just past where your auger cleaned. You'll need a longer auger. Ideally; you should use an auger that will reach from plumbing connection to the next plumbing connection. My neighbor found a comb in his pipe!

This is only $20 and is very handy for an old house owner since you'll be able to see inside of pipes, floors and walls. https://www.amazon.com/Inspection-Fantronics-Waterproof-Borescope-Adjustable/dp/B071HYRPND/ref=wsdps_2?cv_ct_pg=detail&cv_ct_wn=woodstock-detail&linkCode=oad&cv_ct_id=ws&pf_rd_r=BQMDBPFAB5NKAHDWE6B0&pd_rd_wg=ptMps&pd_rd_w=3bFj8&pd_rd_r=e2cdc6f9-369e-11e9-a0bc-1d623743e79f

Amazon sells USB boroscopes for $20. Drill a hole through the drywall and scope it out, you'll know for sure there is nothing lurking behind that wall.

Link here

I've thought about getting a waterproof camera. Something like this.https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Borescope-Waterproof-Inspection-Adjustable/dp/B01N19YCC3


Then buy a manual snake and slap them together. I need to think more about it, really trying to do this on my own.

>not really
>
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P24C2PQ
>
>$14
>
>I mean thats the first one i grabbed but there are others up to 30 feet long for sewer pipes and they have lights on them.. some give better results than others in image quality and some have stiffer cables which can be good or bad.
>
>just drill a little hole and check it out ... boom

Very good idea. Actually I can get away with a 1/4" hole because I picked one of these up at costco.
http://www.amazon.com/Whistler-9mm-Wireless-Inspection-Camera/dp/B005L3HZGS/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

An impulse buy yes but at $130 I couldn't resist.

We had exactly this problem, and went through dozens of different "solutions" until we finally hit it.

The vent stack was clogged.

If you're not familiar with it, a vent stack is a pipe running up to your roof that lets the air out of your drain pipe ahead of the water trying to drain.

Get up on your roof, look for a pipe about 4" across that's just open to the sky. Drop a fiberoptic camera down the pipe to look for a clog. This is the one we used. Once you've found the clog, you can figure out the best way to clear it. We broke it up with fiberglass snap together poles, then put the garden hose down it on full blast.

I bought this one this past year.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYTHWK4/

Works good. You can take photos, videos with their app.

And in case you run out of battery mid-use, you can also use it while it is plugged in via USB charging.

Metal detector? Or this inspection camera and lots of little holes and wood putty? Check this out at Amazon.com
Depstech 7mm Semi-rigid Flexible Camera Cable Micro USB Endoscope for OTG Android Smartphones Endoscope Borescope Solid Snake Inspection Camera--3.5m (11.48ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8HJ2JG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_Pkb4yb5Z7V9E4

Let technology answer your questions. Get one of these for your smart phone:

http://www.amazon.com/Fantronics-Endoscope-Waterproof-Borescopes-Inspection/dp/B01CL1QUCW/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1463637872&sr=8-11&keywords=inspection+camera

If the water is clear enough, try one of these first

http://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-Waterproof-Borescope-Endoscope-Inspection/dp/B00JERRES6/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1458942585&sr=1-3&keywords=endoscope

Your image link is not working. $500 seems like too much money for repairing a drier vent. I recommend buying a cheep ($20) endoscope inspection camera that connects to your computer. The one I will link below is 5 meters in length, but you can get longer ones.

http://www.amazon.com/Crenova-Megapixel-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection/dp/B016KUGVJC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464382137&sr=8-3&keywords=inspection+camera

Rather than take the seat out, have you considered purchasing a borescope? Especially if you know where the sticker should be. They aren't much money and then you'll have a borescope for later.

Something like this...

https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Endoscope-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4/

Those are accessories that go with a USB connected borescope like this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Depstech-Endoscope-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1LHYP4QHNEWPP&keywords=borescope+android+phone&qid=1557426890&s=gateway&sprefix=bore+scope%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-3

You could get something like this borescope and drill small holes in the drywall.

Depending on the angles a long flex bit can be good. Along with a hook on the end of one of these

DEPSTECH Wireless Endoscope, IP67 Waterproof WiFi Borescope Inspection 2.0 Megapixels HD Snake Camera for Android and iOS Smartphone, iPhone, Samsung, Tablet -Black(11.5FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_AuG0DbZS54RS3

Otherwise you are looking at cutting and patching sheetrock

Here is a cheap one that works really well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYTHWK4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Took these pictures with it:
Imgur
Imgur

If you can't find a camera to rent or they're crazy expensive, you could try a DIY camera. You can get a USB camera with 10 meters of cable for like $10 on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Generic%C2%AE-Waterproof-Endoscope-Borescope-Inspection/dp/B00V8A6CSU

I have never tried them so I can't vouch for it but at that price you can't go wrong.

You could get one of these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UH01UE8?colid=3IAYBNEZYOVK2&coliid=IQAA0PUJHWI0P&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

As others mention and see what's the what. And then I'd probably buy a bunch of hardpack and start shoving it into the hole as good as I can.

If it's a big cavity and you can't fill it in properly then I'd do some demo of the pavement and get it patched after you fill it in.

But the most important thing is preventing it from getting worse or happening again. What is the source of this vacancy? What is uphill of that earth?

If your phone has a loop on the case you need this.


https://www.amazon.com/Inspection-Fantronics-Waterproof-Borescope-Adjustable/dp/B071HYRPND/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=usb+c+borescope&qid=1554780347&s=gateway&sr=8-4

But look for one with a threaded tip and tool kit. The threaded end has an attachment for a small hook. Used it to hook a watch that had gone down a rain drain and it worked great...

Well, if you need to investigate further, one of these USB cameras might work for you:

https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-Waterproof-Borescope-Endoscope-Inspection/dp/B00JERRES6

https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Endoscope-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1542329677&sr=1-3&keywords=endoscope

​

i bought one similar - stupid handy to have around. A non wifi flexible version is like $16 on amazon.

For the $12 to buy this one versus the $300+ to get the drain guy to run his camera down there... I bought two of the amazon one and it has been down the toilet twice and still working. The other is wired up with a usb extender cable and watching the front door!

$20 carbide drill bit + $17 endoscope and then you'll then know if its worth the effort to get inside.

Now, I'm not in the medical field, don't play one on TV, and haven't stayed at any Hotels recently, let alone a Holiday Inn...

That said, wouldn't a borescope be a more accurate simulation?

Totally want a set of little graspers though....

This reminds me of the borescopes on Amazon for iPhones or tablets that could probably do the same thing with a modified Laryngoscope to hold the wire.

Amazon ~$20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CL1QUCW

Use a pencil or something to confirm that it actually goes in.

If it does, something like this could save you a lot of effort to find out it is empty (or find out that it is full of cash and priceless art that you don't want to damage)

DEPSTECH Wireless Endoscope, IP67 Waterproof WiFi Borescope Inspection 2.0 Megapixels HD Snake Camera for Android and iOS Smartphone, iPhone, Samsung, Tablet -Black(11.5FT) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jl0RDb8YEV8VY

$17 on amazon. There's other versions for iPhone

Fantronics 7mm Android Endoscope OTG Micro USB Endoscope Waterproof Borescopes Inspection Camera with 6 LED and 3.5M Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CL1QUCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OAIDybBV23KXB

On eBay and Amazon they sell cheap USB borescopes, and some even have magnets attached.

USB Borescope, Depstech Semi-rigid Endoscope Inspection Camera 2.0 Megapixels CMOS HD Waterproof Snake Camera with 6 Adjustable Led Light - 16.5FT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WRNGYXY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

https://www.amazon.com/Supereyes-Magnet-Mirror-Borescope-Endoscope/dp/B00CBKFJVM

You might want to consider a cheap USB borescope with sticky tape to pull out that Q-tip.

I've always wanted an excuse to get one of these...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WRNGYXY/?coliid=I2NRHEXIGH97WU&colid=3FFJSWTF6UVTK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Here are things from my wishlist (past and present)

Wera Screwdrivers
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0085NTQJK/

Oscillating blade set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0109SELWA/

Clamp multimeter:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/

Kreg Jig Jr.:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000J43A7W/

Angled Long Nose Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VSS4S/

Groove Lock Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FK1R0W/

11 ft wifi endoscope:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/

non contact voltage tester:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001UAHZAM/

claw nail puller:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPJMY/

Workmate portable work bench:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000077CQ0/

Cable snake fish tape:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BP7WBO/

9 Outlet metal power bar:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F8ZQY5M/

Spade drill bit set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00099E7WE/

36" bubble level:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000UKMWMO/

O se robaron el diseño o las fotos son photoshops de este


https://www.amazon.es/Ultimate-Ears-Boom-Individual-Waterproof/dp/B0141208EA


Suena a estafa, le pusieron nombre parecido a proposito

I use these two:

https://www.amazon.com/DECVO-Electric-Portable-OnePlus-Function/dp/B0749K6W65

https://www.amazon.com/Inspection-Fantronics-Waterproof-Borescope-Adjustable/dp/B071HYRPND

Drill a hole and snake a camera in.

If you can make a tiny hole near the vent ducting, you could examine it with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-Waterproof-Borescope-Endoscope-Inspection/dp/B00JERRES6

Or run it through the inside of the vent, looking for holes and disconnects.

Depstech Wireless Endoscope, WiFi Borescope Inspection Camera 2.0 Megapixels HD Snake Camera for Android and IOS Smartphone, iPhone, Samsung, Tablet - Black(11.5FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_na01AbWNKMD9E

I think this would work.

You can also get little "endoscopes" for about $25 on Amazon. This is a camera & LED on the end of a long stiff wire that plugs into the USB port on your smartphone. Drill a small hole, you can drop this thing in and actually see inside the wall. They're pretty simple with today's technology - not much to them. And useless on insulated walls, obviously.

https://smile.amazon.com/Depstech-Semi-Rigid-Inspection-Megapixels-Waterproof/dp/B06WRNGYXY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1538242764&sr=8-5&keywords=endoscope

They make other versions (WiFi) that I assume would work with iPhones.

Even cheaper and smaller: https://www.amazon.com/Seesi-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection-Semi-Rigid/dp/B07PBF6DX5/ref=pd_cp_263_3/145-7175468-0863300?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07PBF6DX5&pd_rd_r=52ad0d7f-e742-4c9f-89b5-03b94a7093c3&pd_rd_w=I7tcc&pd_rd_wg=7Nj4D&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=7NNMGR3KX201QB09K1FP&psc=1&refRID=7NNMGR3KX201QB09K1FP

Since you already drilled holes, get yourself one of these and see whats going on behind the walls.

or this (sfw)

What about one of these? DBPOWER 2Million Pixels 5M USB Waterproof HD 6LED Borescope Endoscope Inspection Tube Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JERRES6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_wMoGwbN71F5WD

Haven't tried one but they seem plentiful online.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CL1QUCW/

$20 inspection camera, works on most Android phones.

fiber optic borescope camera (basically a snake)..

​

$35 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Endoscope-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4/

​

why not just put it under the door?

Try an endoscope camera: [https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Endoscope-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=164P4GSXNLMJH&keywords=depstech+wifi+endoscope&qid=1554679695&s=gateway&sprefix=depstec&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1]

Get a Borescope.

https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Endoscope-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4

This one

Endoscope.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785H3XR7/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_b93X4LD_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=3ZKTTGHYPB81PJTKJ2GS&pf_rd_r=3ZKTTGHYPB81PJTKJ2GS&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=6f65dab8-b852-585c-bc08-cb2e9913d6e7&pf_rd_p=6f65dab8-b852-585c-bc08-cb2e9913d6e7&pf_rd_i=8297406011

drain snake

You could always give this a try to see if you notice any issues.

Only way to find out is cut that hole bigger and take a peek inside, maybe with an inspection snake camera. They can get expensive but this seems relatively cheap, Inspection Tube Camera

Get a long drill bit and drill through that wood. Get a wireless endoscope and put it down into the hole to see what's in there.


Edit: I would recommend against a paddle bit in case you hit a nail, it'll be ruined.

I got this forever ago. Hundreds of uses. No ragrets. $20ish

USB Borescope, Depstech Semi-rigid Endoscope Inspection Camera 2.0 Megapixels CMOS HD Waterproof Snake Camera with 6 Adjustable Led Light - 16.5FT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WRNGYXY/

I've seen stupider things done. I'm almost positive someone on reddit posted about finding an old hardwired smoke alarm that someone shoved in the wall during a reno. What you can do is drill a small hole in the wall and run a cheap USB camera into the wall and see what's in there. They're $20: https://www.amazon.com/Inspection-Fantronics-Waterproof-Borescope-Adjustable/dp/B071HYRPND/

the quarter panel doesn't look that bad but the bad news is rust is always much worse than it appears from the outside.

if i were you i would learn to weld and start saving for a welder and quarter panel or patches.

I wish you were local i would give you a hand. replacing panels is a daunting task if you haven't done it before.

you might consider buying some high quality primer and grind sand back the rust on the quarter panel and prime it before it gets worse. jam a endoscope up there and see how bad it really is inside. https://www.amazon.com/Fantronics-Endoscope-Waterproof-Borescopes-Inspection/dp/B01CL1QUCW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481175004&sr=8-2&keywords=endoscope

here is a pretty good repair to give you an idea of what might be required.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=578166

You spelled "snaky" wrong.

1. Buy this
   
   
2. Plug into smartphone, shove into suppressor
   
   
3. Take lots of pics
   
   
4. Post new thread with these pics, in addition to the one pic you have now
   
   I'm betting it was a baffle strike, sometimes they are hard to spot. Either way, that little camera is really cheap, and will show the truth. It is either shitty construction or a strike.

It's kinda like this one, but the newer updated one from Depstech.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NOX4Cb8BDMV4S

It shows for $35.99 and the updated one is $60 but my dad had a code from the company that we got it for $35 for the newer one. I thought it was a dead bird at first too

Thanks! I bought a little camera (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016KUGVJC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00) so i'm going to drill a hole, check out what's going on in there and kill accordingly.

It's the fear of the unknown that is driving me nuts. I want to know what I"m up against!

I was going to suggest this if nobody else had. Also idk how bug the hole is, but there are also affordable endoscope cameras that you could stick in there to see if there are broken bits, cylinder damage etc.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Waterproof-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4/

idk anything about that particular one, was just the first one that came up in a search.

Also, there's no way to know for sure but try to watch a video on youtube on how to properly source an engine from a junk yard. You might look for one with accident damage versus one that looks normal because it implies that it was running at the time of the accident, versus scrapped for mechanical issues.

​

You might be able to do a compression test if you find a way to somehow bring your battery and the junkyard allows you to do connect to the starter somehow. At least pull the plugs and take a look.

​

You won't be able to check the fluids at the junkyard to know if there was oil mixing with coolant so.. if you can manage to get a compression test done somehow that'll be the way to go.

​

I bought this wireless snake camera thing for $30 on amazon which connects to your phone and it's got a light at the end. You might be able to use this to check inside of the cylinder head and look for any damage.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYTHWK4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I use it to find TDC when doing a leakdown test when a screwdriver won't fit