Reddit mentions: The best instruments & equipment for labs

> Answer for New to electronics, where to start?

Everybody learns differently. Some people are theoretical learners, while others are physical learners who need to touch things with their hands to learn anything. And others still are some hybrid between the two. As such, it is very difficult to answer the question "where to start", because there is no one-size fits all solution.

Further complicating the issue is the issue of budget. Not just monetary investment, but time investment as well. No doubt, the best education possible is to simply go to a multi-year university and dedicated multiple years of your life to the trade, but this is more than the typical hobbyist can afford.

Assuming infinite time and money, the ideal learning environment is a lab environment surrounded by high-end, precise and accurate equipment (often costing in the thousands of dollars) with which you can measure, test, and experiment to the heart's desire. For example, accurate variable power supplies that can operate in voltage-mode or current-mode... signal generators to create square, triangle, and sine waves, and a high-end, very accurate Tektronix Oscilloscope so that you can actually see the voltages and currents as they happen. Indeed, this is what your typical lab environment inside a college would be like.

Dedicate yourself to graduate-level college subjects, and you will also get you access to very high-end material, such as scanning electron microscopes, clean-rooms, VLSI integrated circuits, FPGAs and custom PCBs to tie it all together. Mastery of these subjects, aided with state-of-the-art software for simulations will put you into the upper-echleons of world-class electrical engineering.

But learning how to use such complicated equipment is itself a learning curve that takes not only money... but time as well. There are plenty of hobby-level electronics users who make due with both simpler and cheaper equipment.

AA or 9V Batteries provide cheap sources of nearly ideal voltage sources (at least, while the batteries have juice in them). Digital Multimeters can be bought as cheaply as $20... although most people will recommend spending around $100 for a solid precise and accurate multimeter (better accuracy costs more money). Add on $50 to $100 for a breadboard and some typical components (a light bulb, a motor, resistors, capacitors, and some basic chips like a 555 timer or an Op-Amp, and wires to hook it all together), and you'll be well on your way to learning electronics.

Finally, there's the issue of subject material. There are complicated analog components, like building power-supplies, or radios... and then there are complicated digital components like logic and even computers. The two worlds require different math to understand (Discrete mathematics for Digital, Calc3 / Differential Equations for Analog).

There are also software packages to help students learn on the cheap. There are programs that are free for hobbyists, like LTSpice for simulations or Eagle for schematic drawings / PCB layout.

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I'm sorry for the long-winded answer, but this is a deep subject with many valid paths forward. This all comes down to the following:

1. You need to learn some degree of theory to get started.
   
   
2. You can accelerate and/or augment your theoretical learning with software tools such as PSpice. Its a lot cheaper and faster to simulate an effect rather than to actually use real components.
   
   
3. You need physical equipment. Software will never replicate the smell of burning components when that resistor catches on fire for the first time. Some things can only be learned when working in the lab.
   
   Theory
   ============
   
   Here are a list of recommended books:
   (Someone else: make a list of good beginner books, I dunno of any).
   
   There are also free online courses:
   
   

• MIT's 6.002: This is the first course taught at MIT, and all of the video lectures, exams, and class material has been posted online for free.
  
  
• All About Circuits: This messy webpage actually holds a lot of good information about circuits and electronics. I find that paid books are better, but if you don't want to spend any money, this is a very complete reference.
  
  Software
  ===========
  
  The primary software you need as a beginner is a "SPICE" simulator. You can place components like resistors, capacitors and inductors and the software will simulate the components.
  
  
• Partsim is a free website that can simulate your basic electrical components.
  
  
• LTspice: Linear Technology wants you to buy their stuff, so they made a free program that accurately simulates their chips. Can't argue with the results or this marketing scheme though, free software is extremely good and useful for the beginner.
  
  Tools and Hardware
  ===========
  
  
• Uggghhhh. I'm tired. Work in progress, will continue writing later.
  
  
  WORK IN PROGRESS
  ==============
  
  
• Finish First Draft
  
• Edit down my wordy language to be shorter
  
• Come up with good beginner books (paid books generally are easier to read and are better edited)
  
• Figure out some decent beginner kits: both digital world (something Arduino based with a decent free web-lessons), and analog world (opamps and stuff).
  
• Work out a set of beginner tools, in order of "cost-effectiveness" (Ex: Digital Multimeter, cheap USB Oscilloscope, etc. etc.)

A newbie myself but, as said above, definitely take care when removing the keycaps. The stems are prone to breaking and getting stuck in the switch.

 

Since you have to take the switches apart in order to swap out the sliders for the Nexus sliders, invest in a cheapo ultrasonic cleaner. That is the one I got and, while not the best, it gets the job done. Get one of these as well.

1. Take all the switches apart. You should have the slider, the top housing, the spring, the tactile leaf, and the bottom housing with the contact leaf. Some people like to take out the contact leaf from the bottom housing but I like to leave it in.
   
   
2. Clean each group of parts in the ultrasonic cleaner with cool water and 1-2 dental tabs. I use cool water because the water gets pretty warm after 10-15 minutes of cleaning.
   
   
3. Once cleaned, lay them out on something like a napkin separated from each other, place them somewhere where they can stay relatively dust free (otherwise why even clean it) and let them dry for minimum 24 hours. Mine dried quicker but better safe than sorry.
   
    
   
   Since you say the springs are light for your tastes (same for me) you can buy replacement springs. People will warn you about SPRiT because of how he handled things in the past but he's the only person I know of who has Alps replacement springs. For me to truly enjoy these switches, I needed heavier springs so I decided to reach out to SPRiT through his website and hope for the best. I got my first order and my second order from him has already shipped. (Do note that Korea Post took about 35 days to deliver to me and the tracking didn't update at all since it left Korea. This may not be their fault, though, as I later realized I was using a service called Aftership and not Korea Posts website to track my order.)
   
   
    
   
   I'm no lubing expert but I have lubed some alps using RO59. I've been recommended this lube, as well. The basic gist of lubing goes:
   
   
4. Lube the two sides of the slider.
   
   
5. (Optional) Lube the two sides of the slider that make contact with the tactile leaf and contact leaf. This will likely cause a decrease in tactility.
   
   
6. Lube the rails of the top housing where the slider makes contact.
   
   
7. (Optional) Lube the inside of the slider, where the spring goes mainly.
   
   
8. (Optional) Lube the spring.
   
    
   
   Putting it all back together is pretty simple. If you're patient enough to wait, I'd go ahead and wait for the Nexus GB to ship. If not, Alps switches are able to be opened without desoldering, so you can go ahead and do a build now and replace the slider later.
   
    
   
    
   
   I hope I've helped :)

I started mixing back in January, and here's the list of the items I got off of Amazon to get set up:

• Scale
  
  
• Vegetable Glycerin(VG) Originally I just bought the quart size, but wound up needing a gallon fairly quick. If you're mixing at any ratio of 70VG/30PG or higher you will too.
  
  
• Propylene Glycol(PG) I'm still on my first quart, and I've mixed a LOT of juice! I'll probably need another here in the next few months, but until then I really don't have the space to store a gallon of PG.
  
  
• Pipettes Great for adding nicotine to your mixes and for those flavors that don't come in bottles with droppers.
  
  
• Small Mixer This little beauty works great for mixing directly in the bottle. Sure, shaking your mixes is fine, but when you're doing multiple 50 ml or 120 ml bottles, shit gets old REAL quick. The plastic wand is the secret. It's got a split down the middle which allows the two halves to spread when it gets up to speed. All I need to fully mix is 15-30 seconds of this at full speed and the bottle is well homogenized.
  
  There's a few incidentals, such as nitrile gloves, eye protection(You do NOT want nicotine in your eyes!) paper towels. Bottles! How could I forget bottles?!? Again, Amazon to the rescue-just head over to 510 Central's storefront They've got some of the best HDPE bottles on Amazon-Nice and squeezy but firm. If glass is more your thing, I'm sure there's a bunch of those on Amazon too.
  
  Here's a little tip I use: When mixing, put your VG and PG in some condiment-style bottles(I picked up a couple at a craft store in the candy making dept) When you're mixing in small bottles, it saves time and mess to pour from a squeeze bottle than a syringe. Syringes and VG don't work too well-It's like sucking snot up a straw.
  
  I'm also going to say head over to /r/DIY_eJuice and read up on mixing. There's a TON of great info in the sidebar-READ ALL OF IT. When you get ready to start mixing, pick 2 or 3 recipes that sound good and buy the flavors for those. It's a lot easier and less expensive than buying a slew of flavors that sound great but don't play well with others. Enjoy!

First, watch this, then come back: How to make your own E-Liquid : Mixing by Weight - DIY Tutorial I hate youtube tutorials, and I still recommend this, so seriously, watch it.

Now, a warning. You can spend a tiny amount to start DIY, or you can just take the plunge and spend a good chunk, but be set for a while and the cost per ml drops even more.

So you'll need supplies. Other than nicotine and flavorings, Amazon works pretty well.

• Pipettes For adding nicotine, everything else we'll put in squeeze bottles.
  
• Scale
  
• VG
  
• PG
  
  I put my PG and VG into some squeeze bottles I found at wal-mart for $0.97. Makes dispensing them super easy (just like in the video). You can also find them on Amazon for slightly more, but Walmart is on the way to work, so I just stopped there.
  
  I put my flavors into dripper bottles, which I got from Heartland Vapes, but that only works if you want 100+. Free shipping is at $75, so I also threw flavors into my orders, since I'd need them anyway. Personally, I started with single flavor juices that I knew I'd like. I ordered a lot from MtBakerVapor, and most of their flavors are just single flavor FlavorWest (FW) stuff, so I grabbed them. I made those for a month, then I started buying more flavors (like my favorite, TFA Chai). Now I'm adding more flavors into my juices, judging on what I think would work well (it doesn't always). Start simple, then build on what you learn.
  
  Buy some nicotine from your preferred vendor, if you want nicotine in your juice.
  
  Then wait impatiently while USPS loses your package in San Diego, CA, during which you can download the calculator and experiment with it. The bottom calculator on the side bar is amazing. Now you're going, "Crap, I gotta weigh my liquids!". Well, not really. You can take the specific gravities off the manufacturer data sheets (sometimes there, sometimes right, don't trust the ones from FW), google them, or ask here and someone probably has them. Or, you can use the built-in weights for PG and VG, and then set your flavors to 1ml = 1g. It's close enough.
  
  Most of all, remember to have fun.
  
  Quick tip: Better not enough flavor than too much. Too much flavoring mutes the flavor, not enhances, and spearmint burns your lips when you add too much. You can always add more, you can't take away.
  

The only way I clean my chain is taking it off entirely and putting it into https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Eyeglasses/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1466917068&sr=8-3&captcha_verified=1&&linkCode=ll1&tag=zvnfhlebcd-20&linkId=79dfc5fc5c178effaf6c8cc181f80787 one of these with whatever cleaner you like, I've used a citrus degrease and simple green, both seemed great. Nothing has done as good of a job.

Once clean and dry, I drop the chain https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Teflon-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B001C65JTI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&dpID=41o1%2B61WiNL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR228%2C320_&refRID=K1R5QAN4QBMDASZA7E1S&linkCode=ll1&tag=zvnfhlebcd-20&linkId=234fed43a001a1ff9268cc524ceea17e into this and shake the chain around with the lid on tight. I then hang the chain over the container with the ends of the chain just over the opening of the bottle, a funnel can help here but I never needed it.

Chains come out super clean, extremely well lubricated, and I absolutely love this lube. The only thing I've liked better is paraffin wax in certain respects but much sooner reapplication is needed which can be annoying.

You can fit cassettes in these ultrasonic cleaners as well, does a great job.

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

I've worked for a retail jeweler for years in the past. Just walk into a jeweler and ask them to clean it, they will clean it free. When I was working there our main idea to keep people in the store to try and sell something was to offer to clean all the jewelry they had on and while they sit in the machine cleaning we would offer our help. But you dont have to be helped if you just want it cleaned.

Get on Amazon and buy some Gemoro cleaner. Or buy a machine, it shocks all the dirt and crud off here is a cheap one that will work, or give you an idea of what you want, if you want to do it at home. Just let it sit in machine for a minute to a couple mins depending on how dirty it is. But if you buy the machine please buy the cleaner chemicals to go with it so it will clean properly. You mix the chemicals with water based on the chemical brands instructions. Be sure to do some googling on what stones and metals can go into those machines. Stones like opal are precious, soft stones, that should not be placed in those machines. A lot of birthstones shouldnt be placed in those machines. They will discolor them and ruin them.

Edit: If its diamonds and real gold wear it whenever you want. The only thing that will degrade is the gold. But you can "re-dip" the gold whenever it starts to degrade or discolor. White gold will become more "matte" or not as shiny. When it comes to that just spend 25-40 bucks on dipping it. Yellow gold will start to turn into a white gold color, so dip it then. With yellow gold there is silver metals mixed into it so that's why itll turn white-ish after a while.

I hope this helps you. I recommended the machine incase you dont want to be hassled in the jewelry store, they're ruthless because sales are low 98 percent of the year. I recommend going to a local jeweler because you're helping your local community jeweler stay in business and they wont bombard you like retail will, like with credit card applications and all the bs. Good luck and congratulations!

Edit 2: Also, if its gold and diamonds, dont be so tough on yourself. Just was your hands in public with the ring on. Dont risk loosing it or forgetting it because you hear people say it messes the ring up or whatever cause of soap. It really wont mess it up like that. Just take it off when you put on lotion, sunscreen, etc.

First head over to /r/microdosing to get a more detailed answer or broader answers to microdosing. I'll give it a go though.

So tolerance for LSD is something like after 2 weeks you get back to baseline where 100μg = 100μg. Refer to this. In the case on microdosing, we seem to come to the conclusion that the tolerance effect of such a small dose is incredibly low. So low in fact that daily use for a while will still incur similar effects. Though I'm not sure how long that can last.

To compensate for this it is recommended to have a routine of 3/4 days between the doses, this is mostly to minimise the build of tolerance (no matter how little it is). This works incredibly well for some. You can find the right way for yourself.

We do not know how tolerance to LSD works but in the case of microdosing there is no need to increase doses - if you're going the daily route - as this would increase the perceptual effects which you do not want. Keeping to a set dose also keeps the effects in line with what to expect, avoiding cases of racing thoughts, body temperature fluctuations and other effects. But I recommend not doing this. Go for the every few days and keep the dose similar once your find that sweet spot.

On top of all of that dosing is an important factor so cutting up a tab is not recommended as the tab may not be dosed equally. To get around this using a method called volumetric dosing is advised. Here's a guide on how to do that. Using less distilled water can be done if your use a pipette to dose, one like this for example.

All in all I have to admit I love microdosing. It has helped me out incredibly. I vouch for it and would love the idea to spread. I would caution any person doing it though to keep within their limits and follow a regime they construct themselves or someone has recommended, say Dr Fadiman.

Edit. My link to Dr Fadiman's letter is being flagged for spam. Great. It's at the bottom of this article.

Honestly? You will screw up once or twice when you first start, but generally, it's a fairly easy process and you'll save yourself a lot of money in the long run by doing it yourself.

Just to give you an idea of how I do it, here are the items I use. If you have Amazon Student/Prime, it'll be even easier:

• 26mm palette (this one is $19/3)
  
  
• Pipettes
  
  
• Jojoba oil
  
  
• Double-ended spatula
  
  
• Alcohol (I believe mine is 70%, but I'm not able to check on that. Either way, if you're living in a dorm, this is something you may want to have anyways in a first aid kit)
  
  For me, I mix it in small tupperware (obviously, I don't use this for storing food at anymore). For 2 small packets of Shiro samples (or even a minijar (both of which fit comfortably in the aforementioned palette)), I use a mixture of no more than 3 drops of jojoba oil and use alcohol to mix it into a paste, of which I then place into the aluminum palette.
  
  You don't want to use an excessive amount of the oil because then it will almost never dry and dilute the color. Whereas, alcohol evaporates out faster so you want to use more of the alcohol than the jojoba oil (or whatever binding solution you choose). Once it gets dried down to a certain point, you can press if you choose to, but I never feel I need to when I do it this way because it's generally pretty uniform.
  
  I know dorm rooms are crampy, but you can do this anywhere once you get the hang of it and for cheaper than having someone else do it (especially if you take into consideration the excessive shipping costs--which will be more than the cost of what you'd be using for some of these products alone).
  
  ETA: Added details.

I wouldn’t say there’s a lot of debate over decarbing. It’s pretty well agreed upon that if you’re going to put your extract in a cart then you need to decarb so that you 1. have an extract that’s fluid enough to wick on your cart and 2. prevent your extract from crystallizing in the cart.

If you wanna take some of the guess work out of decarbing, don’t do it before your extraction. Once you have your extract you can decarb it at 200f and instead of using a timer you can watch it bubble. As the extract decarb a you can visually see the carbon dioxide bubbling out. So once almost all of the bubbling is gone, your extract is finished decarbing and you should have a less dark concentrate.

Dry ice is what you want. Not liquid nitrogen. Nitrogen will freeze your got damn hand off. So will dry ice, but not if you’re wearing some thick gloves haha it’s like 2 dollars a pound where I live and for something small scale you should use too much.

Vacuum filtration is a MUST. You don’t necessarily need an expensive vacuum pump for this, instead you can get away with a faucet aspirator . They are pretty cheap and let you get enough of a vacuum to filter. You can get away without vacuum filtering on high micron filters without a lot of sediment, but if you want to do low micron like you mentioned or get into carbon filtering gravity filtration can take hours.

Those liquifiers can contain some real garbage in them. Pg, Vg, PEG, mct oil (mineral oil based on some independent testing of True Terpenes supposed “100% natural terpenes blend”) and who knows what else because MOST OF THEM WON’T TELL YOU. It’s a proprietary blend. If you can afford it get a blend of terpenes. Floraplex actually offers msds sheets for their products, so you know what’s in it. Mass terpenes does not do this, but they get a lot of support from the community along with Mr. Extractor. Mass terpenes and floraplex are quite affordable too!

if you want something simple and insanely well priced when compared to other nutrients then check out dyna-gro.

dynagro foliage pro + pro-tekt and you will be years above most other growers. just focus on your environment which IMHO is the most important thing.

what is good about dynagro is it has everything in it as a base nutrient. with most other products (botanicare, GH, and famously Adv Nutrients) the base leaves out C and MG and micro nutrients.

Protekt is a silica additive that makes the plants noticeably stronger and thicker healthier stems.

If you call dynagro's number you can get a starter kit with a PK booster (used around week 4 and 7 of flower).


If you only want to water once every few days I suggest a hempy bucket https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=98419

You can do a coco hempy bucket too and is very popular as well. if you decide to go that route make sure to grab some botanicare Calmag. So your list would be dynagro foliage pro/dynagro protekt/botanicare calmag.

You will 100% need to buy a PH meter and I strongly advise an EC/PPM meter. These are the ones I use

https://smile.amazon.com/Oakton-EcoTestr-Waterproof-Tester-Range/dp/B004G8PWAU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1479005211&sr=8-13&keywords=ph+meter
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FPG89CE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In a hempy bucket and coco always PH to 5.5-6.2

If you were to put the plants in your pic in to a 3 gallon hempy bucket with vermiculite and perlite for the first 2-3 weeks you are going to want to water once every 2/3 days until a little bit of water flows out. Then when they get big once per day.

I would strongly, strongly suggest not using CFL's. It would be a better investment to get a 250-600w HPS. they are really cheap on amazon. If you go with 250w you dont want the plants to get bigger then a foot or so before you flip the schedule to 12 hours on and 12 hours off.

150W - LINK - Grow 1-4 small plants

600W - LINK - Grow 4-6 medium plants


Dont spend so much time on nutrients and what type of grow medium and focus mostly on keeping a good enviornment in terms of temp and humidity and fresh air. You also need to consider when you flower the room needs to be 100% dark. Even a tiny pinhole of light coming in can be very bad

From what I have read Heated Ultrasonic Cleaners are the most efficient way to speed steep. You don't have to get a heated one, but then you have to switch your juice from a hot bath to the sonic cleaner a few times. I think people run like 3-4 cycles on the sonic cleaner.


But I just got a Milk Frother , and I plan on frothing, heat bath, frothing, heat bath to see if I can get my juice steeped in about 24 hours. I haven't tried it yet though.


Heat bath=boil a pot of water. Let the water sit/cool off for about 10 minutes, then set your open/aerated bottles of juice until the water cools. I can't imagine this would be such a great idea to do with plastic bottles, maybe consider transferring into a mason-style jar or something.

Last batch of juice I made I tried shaking my bottles, then doing 2 heat baths; it doesn't instantly steep, but about 24 hours after the heat bath the consistancy of the juice was that of about 1 week of steeping. So if your working with pre-made juice, this method might be enough to get you a little better flavor and buy you time for the bulk of your supply to steep fully.


Good luck sir!

Inventory:

• [Jojoba oil (cold pressed is important to keep the nutrients)] (http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00VSH7LAG)
  
• Essential oils sampler
  
• 100pk Pipettes for more precise measuring and to avoid cross-contamination of oils
  
• Amber dropper bottles to contain the mixes and protect against excess light
  
  This is my first shot at this, but it seems like a cool passive hobby that'll also augment my facefur. I already plan to expand by getting a couple other carrier oils to balance out the jojoba—particularly either some grape seed or avocado oil and perhaps some Vitamin E.
  
  Questions? Comments? Concerns? Suggestions?
  
  * I'd also be remiss if I didn't mention there's a subreddit specifically for this (of course there is) at /r/beardoil. I'm gonna start posting in the hopes of livening it up a bit—if you're interested in picking this up as a hobby, come join me!

So, for a basic beginning to get into electronics you need:

1. A soldering iron. For troubleshooting and assembly it is important to know how to solder. There are a bunch of YouTube videos on the subject.
   
   
2. Hookup Wire. 22 AWG solid core is the best wire in my opinion for use in breadboards and general repair.
   
   
3. A Multi-Meter. Probably the most important diagnostic tool you could own. This is not the end all best meter but it is a good DIY soldering experience. You learn some soldering basics while building your own test equipment.
   
   
4. An Oscilloscope. This is a cheap beginner build it yourself scope. This is the second most important tool for a circuit designer to own. This particular kit is good enough for basics.
   
   This would be a starter kit which would help build up soldering skills and start building up knowledge.
   
   Getting Started in Electronics is a good read for a beginner to understand basics in circuit theory. I may have seen this floating around the interwebs as a PDF when Radio Shack was going down.
   
   

Do you ever plan on doing 5 gallon batches? If you have the space it will be more cost effective to just go for a full size keging system. Mini kegs are going to cost you roughly what a new 5 gallon keg will.

That said if it's only a one-off thing you could use some 2 liter bottles and get yourself a co2 tank and regulator and a carbonation cap and force carb that way, it won't be on "tap" but it will be force carbonated.. and you can keep it carbonated if you leave the cap on and top off the bottle with co2 each time you pour from it.


If you have nothing then you'll need a regulator I have this one: (taprite t742hp primary double gauge co2 regulator, brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UZUJ22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_auBCDbBPZ3V0H)

A co2 tank, something like this: (5lb co2 tank- new aluminum cylinder with cga320 valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BvBCDbXPB33KP)

Some 5/16 tubing l, and a ball lock gas disconnect like this (5/16" gas line assembly - ball lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064OI77Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6wBCDbSWZWMNY)

And a carbonation cap like this : (stainless carbonation cap counter pressure bottle filling with 5/16" barb，co2 coupling to carbonate soda beer fruit juice water https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4GGYT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BxBCDbK0V3J35)




I also have this regulator for my mobile mini keg set-up: Ultimate CO2 Regulator works with 5 types of CO2 tanks (0-50psi) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071J9FKVD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nABCDbQWF87S3
It works great and I use it with a soda stream co2 tank which are a little pricey for how much co2 you get but they're convenient and available everywhere. This makes a nice compact system since you don't have the big regulator and big co2 tank.

They do still make the Provari, and even have the older versions. And they're still expensive! But if you're willing to invest it really is exactly what you describe wanting for the way you vape, minus the TC stuff. And they really do last. I beat on mine for a year and a half and only stopped using it when I "upgraded" to higher output but worse made devices.

The corrosion and gunk issues you've described would explain the resistance variance you've observed. Electrical connections really want to be clean. Even oxidation or corrosion you can't see will have an effect. If you can see it, it will likely have a major effect. I'd suggest a simple ultrasonic cleaner and some scrubbing. I have this $40 model and it works a treat: http://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Instruments-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K

If you want to get super serious about cleaning (and you might want to!) grab some of this to go with: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F1SCU4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B007Q2M17K&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=05BD3DRA83NHH7PY2V62

And you're right. I know people who keep the same Ecig for years, and I know people who post about ecigs on the internet, but not anybody who does both. Good on yah for actually getting your money's worth out of your gear! I hope you can find something that'll hold up. I will say that my authentic Kayfun didn't degrade the way you describe, and I had it for a year. You might try and figure if yours is authentic or not.

Since you're looking at Amazon reviews when considering your purchase, I found this guy for a decent price with 4.5 stars on Amazon. I do not currently own a stir plate, but when I worked at a nanobrewery (only making one-barrel batches), we used one. It definitely made things more efficient.

Best of luck in your brewing adventures!

Do you think there's a market for this sort of thing? Like, if you were to sell the equivalent for $75, do you think there's enough people that would buy it to make it worth the time? Thinking about whether it would be worth the effort to make up a little version of this :)

I would be curious to see what the chip # is, as well as the 3-pin part on the side (under the grey heatsink putty).

I have a feeling what that active circuitry does is actually act as a constant current regulator to charge up the caps. The problem you will have with so much capacitance is getting a massive inrush when you first connect the power supply. Ie, the caps will look like you shorted the power supply until they reach the operating voltage. The power supply probably won't like that.

So, having said that, to answer your question about capacitance: You can try experimenting.
To start with, it looks like they have a 2200uF cap + 6 of whatever those other things are (still assuming they're flat pack caps, but they could be something else). My feeling is that they're probably some lower value to deal with some of the higher frequency components.

I would buy a selection of beefy caps, and just start putting them in parallel with the power supply. Make sure they're rated to be at least 16V!

Instead of the constant current circuit, you could have a toggle switch (make sure it's rated to at least 1.5A) in parallel with a 1-ohm power resistor.

When you want to connect power, you have the switch in the open position, then connect the power supply. Wait maybe 10 seconds, then flip the switch to the bypass / shorting position to remove the resistor from the circuit. At that point, you can use the camera.

Something like this:

https://imgur.com/a/5VgBx

EDIT: screwed up on power jack, more like this: https://imgur.com/a/00ujw


EDIT2: You can also buy constant voltage / constant current power supplies. Lab power supplies are an example. They won't care if you short the output; they'll happily limit the current to whatever they're set to. Actually, most wall adapters have a similar "anti-short" protection of some sort built in, so you might be able to get away with not using the switch / resistor trick.

You could buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Eventek-KPS305D-Adjustable-Switching-Regulated/dp/B071RNT1CD/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523427142&sr=8-5&keywords=lab+power+supply

This is an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner its under 30$ and works really well, you can use this to clean all your vape stuff and it takes very little effort. I highly suggest looking into getting one, it will save you a LOT of time and effort, and really works a lot better anyway, best of luck to you and happy vaping :)

https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K

You are going to want to balance tools and parts.

TOOLS (must haves)

• Multimeters (At least two, I suggest starting with one cheapo ($5-$10) and one in the $30-$50 range)
  
• Variable regulated power supply with current limiting (Skip the cheap/dangerous chinese crap and get a used HP/Agilent/Keysight one off ebay like this or this.)
  
• Breadboards (several)
  
• Jumper wires
  
• Wire strippers and cutters
  
• Decent soldering Iron ($50-$100) (DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS)
  
• Desoldering pump and/or wick (The ctrl-z of the soldering world)
  
• Heat shrink tubing for sealing connections (Especially if you are going to be doing outdoor stuff)
  
• Microcontrollers (I suggest starting with an Arudino Uno since it has the largest amount of online support material, you could get an Uno kit, any of them will be fine)
  .
  .
  TOOLS (eventually)
  
• Logic Analyzer (Let's you see the logic signals in your circuit which is super helpful for debugging, I have a bitscope micro which is decent, but the software kinda sucks and is more than just a logic analyzer)
  
• A function generator (variable voltage and frequency for sine, square and triangle waves) (Again I suggest used off ebay, something like this.)
  
• Oscilloscope (a really amazing tool for actally seeing what is going on in your circuit)
  .
  .
  PARTS (vaguely in order of usefullness)
  
• Elenco Resistor Kit
  
• Elenco Capacitor Kit
  
• Elenco Transistor Kit
  
• Elenco Diode Kit
  
• Elenco LED Kit
  (Of couse you don't have to get the Elenco kits, those are just the ones I use and really like)
  
• Voltage regulator ICs (Great for providing regulated power to things that need more than what your arduino can provide)
  
• Trimmer Potentiometer Kit (really useful to have around for many projects)
  
• Old electronic equipment to scavenge parts out of (Many of my parts have come from old equipment or broken ATX computer power supplies. Tearing stuff apart is both fun and yields great parts.)
  .
  .
  .
  I think that's all for now...

On that starter kit you mentioned... It's fine, but it isn't the best route if you think you might stick with this.

First up, read up on mixing by weight. /u/Botboy141 has a fantastic write up on it. It ends up being cheaper and faster long term versus mixing with syringes. Take into account that you should use different syringes for each flavor and you'll have to clean them after use... The cleaning murders the time mixing and that kit doesn't have many syringes, so you'll be cleaning a lot.

A break down for you on mixing by weight... It isn't 100% I'd bet, but it should be close enough.
Scale: 16.99 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012TEQMG - this is the one I have, but the auto shut off is a friggin annoyance. Pick up the one Botboy141 recommends for the extra 14 or so dollars. So let's go with 30
Pipettes: 10.00 for 500 1ml. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CD2I50
10 for 200 3ml (you can probably find a better price) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IQTSE0
Dispensing bottles x2: 7.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B5139AG
Pg: 13.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F5OJG6
Vg: 13.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C7MTLA
Nicotine: 100mg/120ml 19.00 http://www.nudenicotine.com/product/500ml-100mgml-100-pg-nicotine-base-for-mixing-only/ 50 30ml ldpe bottles: 11.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F098JJA

$113, call it 130 with some shipping here and there.

Now add flavors, assuming you get 50 bucks of 8ml vials from wizard labs and you're running closer to 200. This will get you a good bunch of juice and the next time around you'll probably get 4oz bottles of your favorite flavors and maybe some more pg vg nic and possibly pipettes. It's worth the money, but syringes will be cheaper up start costs. You'd probably save about 70 bucks to start, but it'll cost you in frustration and time, which isn't worth the pain from all I remember with them.
Edit: I say wizard only because of the sample size of the vials... You can use bull city, tfa and lorann direct for 4oz and up on a bunch, or any other vendor really. But 50 in wizard with shipping will probably get you 25 or 30 vials.

Syringes will take away the scale and dispensing bottles and pipettes, so 60 bucks actually, and you'll add about 30 back in a bunch of 1ml, a few 3 or 5 and a couple of 10 for pg/vg and14ga blunt needles.

Hopefully that helps a bit. I can reformat it later on the computer if need be.

You shouldn't have a problem with Solferino. I had that in my Pelikan M1005 for a few weeks and didn't have a problem (other than the little area in the section near the nib, but that's specific to the physical design of that pen).

If you really want to make sure that your demonstrators are kept clean, learn how to disassemble them and consider investing in a cheap ultrasonic jewelry cleaner (I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485818656&sr=sr-1&keywords=ultrasonic) and it was a very worthwhile purchase for me (I want to keep my demonstrators clean and that M1005 is pretty tough).

Yeah, it can be difficult with gel. In that case I would-

• get some distilled water or vodka or both. Do not use tap water because it contains chlorine which can kill the LSD.
  
• Get a small bottle preferably an amber or dark colored or something that can block out light. (UV light can kill LSD as well.) Or if you can’t get one of those then you can wrap aluminum foil around a bottle to block out the light.
  
  Here are some amber bottles you can buy on Amazon with a measured dropper.- 3 Pack of 1oz Amber Glass Dropper Bottles (30mL) with Child Resistant Graduated Measurement Marked Glass Droppers::The Hemp Door LLC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SXJHKQH/
  
  If you don’t need a glass bottle but need a dropper you can get one of these.- Ezy Dose Straight Tip Glass Medicine Dropper (Calibrated) 1 mL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071S5Y46/
  
  If you want to get a precise measurement of the water or vodka then get a measuring cup that has milliliter measurements. Something like these.- Pixnor Measuring Cylinder Graduated Cylinder Lab Test Tube Set of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019W5T4CS/
  
  Depending on how much LSD you have in those gel tabs I would recommend trying 20-30ml. (Those amber glass bottles can only hold 30 ml.) You’ll maybe want to use this calculator. - https://www.microdosingcalculator.org/
  
  
• Take one of the gel tabs of LSD and cut it up in 2-4 pieces. I would recommend wearing gloves so the lsd doesn’t get into your skin.
  
  
• Put the pieces of LSD in the bottle and pour the 20-30ml of distilled water or vodka or a mix of both. To help the gel dissolve quicker use warmer water or vodka and let it sit for 1 day in room temperature but keep it out of the light.
  
  
• To be on the safe side try taking only 0.5ml for your first dose in the early morning and try it on a day off from any important obligations or responsibilities to see how you feel and how you react to it.
  
  You shouldn’t feel much. If you feel too spacey or jittery then that means you might have taken too much. Wait 2 days and try a lower dose. (1 day on, 2 days off) If you didn’t feel anything then maybe try a little more the next time like 1ml. If you feel too spacey or jittery then go lower the next time. You have to find your sweet spot that’s right for you, where you just feel an over all good feeling to your day.
  
  After you’ve found the dose that’s right for you then you can continue doing the 1 day on, 2 days off or maybe try every other day.

Hey man, I would love to help you quit smoking and didn't notice the first time I commented that you didn't have any experience with vaping. So I'm going to try to put together a list here of what you need to do to start vaping for very little money.

1. A mod. I am suggesting this mod because it is very simple and fairly cheap.
   
   https://www.vapordna.com/Joyetech-eGo-AIO-All-In-One-Starter-Kit-p/egoaio.htm
   
   This is another option for you.
   
   https://www.vapordna.com/Eleaf-iCare-All-In-One-Ultra-Portable-System-p/icaref.htm
   
   I love my Icare, but you will need to use high (24-36) mg ejuice with it, whereas with the ego you would need 12-24 mg/ml.
   
   
2. Eliquid making basics.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005UGBG20/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210602&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PSGWHIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210630&sr=8-2&keywords=vg
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K8UB5VO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210666&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pg
   
   
   https://www.nudenicotine.com/product/500ml-100mgml-100-pg-nicotine-base-for-mixing-only/?attribute_size=120mL&attribute_solvent=100%25+PG
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081SRRFO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210749&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dropper+bottle
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IQTSE0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210793&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pippettes+plastic+droppers
   
   OPTIONAL: flavoring. If you want flavoring just ask in a reply I'll let you know what to get based on your tastes, but it's not necessary and you're trying to go cheap.
   
   This is the recipe for making flavorless, 12 mg juice.
   
   http://e-liquid-recipes.com/recipe/1240996/For+cheapos
   
   You can make an account at that site and adapt that recipe to be higher or lower nicotine if you want.
   
   I know this seems a lot more expensive than the Ryo cigarettes, but trust me, this makes like a year or two worth of liquid and the mods I suggested have really cheap coils. Please believe me, this is worth every penny of the investment, you will never regret it. If you need help with mixing your first batch of eliquid, go to r/diy_ejuice and look at the new mixer thread in the sidebar. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask me, but comment it cause I don't get message notifications on my phone app.

This is the one I purchased about two months ago

As far as using it for DiY I use straight hot water. My hot water heater is set for 140, I use the heater on the ultrasonic on the second cycle. (cuts off at 150). The UC I purchased has a 1-30 minute timer so I generally run it through 2 hots cycles at 30 minutes each. Then let it sit in the bath till the water cool and run it through two more with cold water.

Afterwards it comes out to about 2 weeks worth of steeping on my juices. Glass bottles seem to work WAY better than plastic bottles.

The one I have has a large enough tank you could probably do about 4-8 30ml bottles at a time thought the most I've used it for is 4. Works great at the full water mark it's up to the bottom of the 30 ml bottles caps when using the basket. Without it could almost cover the entire bottle.

It works really great too for cleaning your rda's and needles / syringes. Just run a cycle with some hot water and 3 drops of dish soap - then I run another cycle of clean distilled water to get off the dish soap. Mods come out looking better than new.

Purple Power / Super Clean diluted at about 1:1 with water, let it soak for a couple days in an airtight tub (Tupperware or something similar), then go at it with an old tooth brush and water. It wont get every nook and cranny, but I've been using this method to strip minis of acrylic paints and basecoats for years with great success.

If you're willing to spend a little more money, get a cheap sonic jewelry cleaner off of amazon (something like this will work well) and fill it with the same above mixture. Drop your minis into it, let it soak, turn it on for 2-3 mins every now and again, and save yourself most of the elbow grease. You'll likely still have to go at it with the toothbrush though to get some of the more stubborn spots, but it wont be as labor intensive as a deep scrub.

You may be overthinking it a tad. Unless Ruger has done something remarkable with machining tolerances (and I'll bet they haven't) there's not much I do with my suppressed MKII's than dribble some of my powder solvent of choice down the receiver and scrub/wipe with cotton 3" shotgun patches. It cleans the breech-face to new, and I then have a clean gun.

I clean via the ejection port, and the underside opening.

I use the cheapest plastic pipettes that are sold on amazon, (link for reference point only, I think I paid $4 for 100 of them) to squirt the solvent where it needs to go, let it sit, then use 3" cotton patches (12ga shotgun patches) for general cleaning, again, whatever cotton patches are on sale @ Midway, or LGS or whatever, and $0.99 bamboo skewers (your local grocery store, pack of 100) to get the patches where they need to go.

The extractor groove, well, that's a twist with a solvent soaked patch via bamboo skewer and I call it a day. I don't get much crud out of that.

Other than that, the rest of the gun gets sprayed with either:

1. Non-Chloronated Brake cleaner from Walmart or your favorite auto-parts store, its the same stuff as aerosol gun scrubber except that its regularly on-sale at the auto-store for like $2 a can. I just blast the shit out of the frame. Wear eye-pro when doing it, brake cleaner in the eyeholes isnt fun......
   
   
2. more gun solvent soaked patches/rags.
   
   Once done, I wipe it down (everything internal and external) with the aforementioned 3" shotgun patch with your favorite gun oil (the brake cleaner strips ALL grease/oil away), and I call it a day.
   
   There isnt much left after that, for me, at least, unless I do a white-glove test.

That is the wrong way to learn about growing. It's costly and slow. Just watch some YouTube videos and go try. It's how I got started. I knew 0 about growing anything 6 months ago. Now I've got a successful crop and have a single tomato plant with over 20 tomatoes on it and many bell peppers growing, okra, pablano peppers, raddish, lettuce, basil, potatoes, kale and brussel sprouts. I've only spent about $200 too.

Most Helpful links/videos:

Intro to NPK: https://youtu.be/-gtFvhEjA3o

This is a great intro to nutrient deficiencies and effects on plants and how to diagnose: https://youtu.be/9SotrCwqfHo

Cheap Vinyl Downspout grow box: https://youtu.be/bYhwJIarjQ0

Pool noodles instead of rockwool, rocks, or cups: https://youtu.be/rFQiDbkjxY4

Common Veggie EC and pH: http://www.homehydrosystems.com/ph_tds_ppm/ph_vegetables_page.html

Easy to use nutrients:
https://www.amazon.com/MASTERBLEND-4-18-38-Complete-Combo-Fertilizer/dp/B072F2BL9D/

Cheap good EC meter (EC is shown in μs/cm instead of the more common ms/cm, as in above link, so the EC shown should be divided by 1000 to get normal EC numbers; it's easy, just remember when it shows 2300 EC, that's an EC of 2.3, or 700 is 0.7. Also note I've found with all these EC meters you need to dip and then swish them around in the solution and then read it, otherwise it will read inaccurate due to tiny air bubbles on the probes) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FPG89CE?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Cheap good pH meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07R4FMYY4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Easy micro greens, which you use to sprout seeds you want to grow or eat as micro greens:
http://imgur.com/gallery/VARfNoo

ReUse 2 disposable plastic food containers, a cheap poly wicking cloth, and your choice of grow bed (dirt, coco coir, whatever)...

Stack the two containers.

Make 2 long cuts in the bottom of the top container thru the lid of the bottom container, along the 2 longer sides.

Push the cloth thru the 2 slots, such that it's layered across the bottom of the top container and the ends are hanging in the bottom container.

Fill bottom container with water.

Place grow bed material in top container on top of cloth.

The cloth wicks up the water and keeps the grow bed moist. You don't have to water it but maybe once every two weeks and can leave the micro plants there for staging plant growth every couple weeks cause they will grow slow. If you don't use dirt as the grow bed, you will need to replace water with a weak nutrient solution after three or four weeks.

Looks like three in my county so I'll be sure to call tomorrow but cant travel until the afternoon (work).

Based on the info linked, they were all wrinkly too. I just don't know if I gave them enough liquids.

I used something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Transfer-Pipettes-Essential-Graduated/dp/B00WLIQHQ0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=plastic+pipettes&qid=1566439865&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWUJPUVUxOUExUjg3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjI0MDI0U1dINEVLSjdNWDFDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMTMzODdENlA3OUdUMVpWNTcmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Each got maybe half to 3/4 of one those (not full, just up the stem), 3 times.

They really haven't moved much since they settled. I'm just not sure if I should do something like try and stimulate or try and feed.

Also, im not sure about the heating. I have a lamp well above them. I have an infrared thermometer thats reading 89f on top of the tshirt that's currently covering them.

It probably wont drop below 75 tonight. I have them on my back porch, safe from any critters and not in the AC

I would absolutely recommend washing any new attys before use. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, that is one of the best ways. If you do not, you can put it in a dish of hot soapy water, making sure to take it apart, and letting it soak for a few. You can then rinse and put in some vodka if you so choose, just make sure that if you do that you rinse really really well.

If you are interested in a reasonably price ultrasonic cleaner, heres one that Ive seen pop up a couple times here.

http://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Instruments-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449342955&sr=8-1&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

That's why you have to buy one of these suckers

It's pretty easy to make phytosomes actually. Just liquify some lecithin (equal amount to the amount of substance you're trying to prepare) by letting it sit in warm water than blending it. Add your desired substance to the mixture, then pour some of the solution (I think doing small amounts at a time works better than doing the whole thing at once) into the ultrasonic cleaner, turn it on and stir it as it is running.

Bam! You have your own phytosome complexes :)

I actually bought a magnasonic jewelry cleaner to use at home for like $35 and it works like a charm! i just bought some cleaning solution to mix in with the water and i clean my rings every couple weeks and they sparkle like they're brand new! jewelry cleaner

Molecular Gastronomy Spherirication is really fun and sciency. I made little balsamic vinegar spears when I did it for a project but you can do it with fruit juice and then put them on ice cream. They are kinda like boba but much smaller. I used these pipettes to make the spheres (if you decide to do this, I still have a bunch and totally willing to send you some if you would like) It was pretty fun and I'm an adult. Also I have a simpler recipe but mine is specifically for vinegar...not sure if that matters...

These brain ice cube trays would make ice or you could make mini brain jello jigglers.

This is the advice that /u/gzprime gave me:
>I like the Rit Dymore (has to be the Dyemore version) for a few different reasons. The number one reason is convenience, it is pre-mixed and there for ready to go. It has far less warnings and caustic information than the iDye Poly. I find the iDye Poly hard to blend in small batches and have been having better results as of late withe Rit Dyemore.

>I'm pretty comfortable with dyeing keycaps. You can see some of my work here: (http://imgur.com/a/A79CE) You'll want the Rit Dyemore that comes in a bottle, premixed in the black color. I would use disposable pipettes to measures 1-3ml of dye for the initial bath/shade (https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Graduated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0/).

>If they're PBT caps, you can bring the water to soft boil, add the caps and then just babysit them until you get the shade you're looking for. Then I'd use the pipette to add additional dye for the next shade and babyit that as well, repeating the process until you've got all the shades you're looking for.

>I'd also strongly suggest starting off with a series of test caps so you can get the timing, concentration, and process down pat. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions and good luck!

If you're looking to do a gradient type dye with one color like what I did, I would strongly recommend using both as little water as possible and as little dye as possible for your first shade. The longer the cap is in the dye bath the more even and consistent the color, but the darker it gets. Use lots of test caps to figure out the exact length of time to consistently get the shade you're looking for before proceeding. And I've found tapping the strainer up and down so that the caps jiggle around in the dye bath without being lifted out of it helps to make the color look more consistent.

I use about three big droppers full of Trader Joe's tea tree oil (~9 ml) in a whole bottle of Suave Naturals conditioner (I usually use coconut, but I'm going to buy one of the no-protein ones when I run out), and shake it up. I massage a huge handful into my scalp and comb it through my hair (fine, curly, not very porous) and rinse with cool water, and my hair stays fresh smelling and soft, not greasy or flat. Give it a try, but maybe only mix a few drops of tea tree oil into a half cup of conditioner to start with, just in case you don't like it. You don't want to ruin a whole bottle of conditioner if the tea tree oil doesn't work for you!

I also use a tiny bit tea tree oil in the spray gel I use for styling, to keep it fresh smelling. It's a pretty versatile essential oil!

I have one and I would recommend it to anybody, but it is not a requirement by any means. I used to use rubbing alcohol, Q-tips, water, and time to clean my tanks, and it worked extremelt well.

With the ultrasonic I can get 5 tanks/RDAs clean in under 10 minutes. I run hot water, chuck the gear into the cleaner with the water, run it for 3 minutes, then use my air compressor to blow any excess water away. Honestly takes longer to reassemble everything than the cleaning takes.

Still, unless you're really anal about cleaning, or have a crapton of gear that needs cleaning often, you do not need one.

I used this machine. This USC does its job but I do wish I got one with a programmable timer, instead of one that only runs in 3 minute intervals. I didnt use any cleaner because they didnt need the extra help. All of the pens were inked at some point this semester, and still started immediately. My process was to run the converter and feed under tap water until I didnt see any ink coming out, and then to run it in the USC. Using this process I was able to get all of the sections and converters clear. The reason I picked up a USC was because after cleaning the Prera section with tap water, I could still see ink left over in several pockets and knew it would dry there. About 9 minutes in the USC and it was sparkling clear.

Edit: /u/abraxart and /u/mitch_romley

Test your tap waters ph,tds, gh and kh. Here are shrimp parameters . If your tap water isn’t ideal I would recommend doing the ro water with a remineralizer.

I don’t think stratum is worth is for neocaridina shrimp since they require kh in there water. The kh will run the buffering real quick. For neocaridina I think sand is the best substrate.

I would highly recommend looking at different types of mosses there’s a lot of very cool ones besides java moss.

I have a heated ultrasonic cleaner that's worked pretty well for me at loosening loctited screws. Doesn't get boiling hot, but it's hot enough that I have to use tongs to remove the knife. The heat and 42,000 hz seem to work pretty well together. I also add this stuff to the water. Not sure how much effect it has on the loctite, but it's an awesome cleaner and degreaser.

peroxide just breaks down into water (and quickly). best bet is soap, water, and perhaps alcohol and a good rinse. ultrasonic cleaners work wonders if you build as well. great for extending the life of coils between rewicking. this is the one i have.

http://amzn.com/B00HZVYAVM

just have some water and dish soap in there and run it through a few cycles and you are good to go.

Definitely have to spray it! Most full-size bottles come with spray-nozzles-- you need to try out the scent the way its meant to be tried (a couple sprays at least)!

I recently transferred a couple sample sets to little spray bottles. I purchased these 5 mL atomizers and a million little pipettes to aid in transfer. Finally, I made little labels for them using a label maker. The atomizers work great and I feel like I can better judge the scents after dousing myself haha.

Eighth swirl attempt. Trial and error = improvement.

It's an aluminum enclosure, so paint adhesion is always a potential problem. I used self-etching primer - it chemically etches the surface of the aluminum, providing a good base coat that other paints can stick to.

After that, I put down a base coat of intense orange. I've found that swirled paint jobs tend to have a lot of see-through areas, so you want to plan the bottom layer strategically. I let this dry for about 3 days before I proceeded to the dip because enamel spray paints stay tacky for so long.

For dipping, I put a large plastic trash bag into a 3 gallon bucket before adding the water. The trash bag prevents paint from mucking up your bucket, which is important if your bucket is also used for serving chilled canned beverages at fabulous summer barbecues.

I filled the bucket with room temperature water. I added 7.5g Borax per liter of water to reduce the surface tension and allow the paint to flow over the water's surface.

For paints, I used Humbrol brand enamel paints. I was able to find them at my local hobby shop even though they weren't listed as a retailer on the Humbrol website. They should be available at most serious hobby / model airplane stores, as they're one of the classic brands of model paint that have been around almost since plastic models appeared on the market.

If doing 3-color swirls, I think think one could dip about 10 pedals from three 14mL cans of paint. The consistency should be like warm syrup: not thin like water, but able to drip or drizzle off the end of a coffee stir stick (the smaller size makes them easier to use than a popsicle stick because the cans are so little). Stir really well. If too thick, thin with mineral spirits / white spirit. I dropped it in with a plastic pipette - about 10-30 drops were required, depending on how thick the paint was. (I also tried thinning with white gas / naphtha, but it did not work as well. Despite the similarity in name - white spirit vs white gas - they are not equivalent!)

I'm going to stop posting links now; the section above is where I had the most trouble finding quality instruction in the Internet when I was figuring out how to do this, but there are plenty of YouTube videos that demonstrate the actual swirling/dipping process described below.

I drop the paints into the water by dipping a stir stick into the paint and letting it drip off the end into the water. Drop the paints into the water from as close to the surface as possible - if you drop from too high, the paint will plunge through the surface and sink to the bottom. The first few drops on the surface might thin out into a fine sheen on the surface of the water, but eventually they'll saturate the surface with a fine layer of paint and you'll be able to start getting good dots and ropes of color. I noticed that different colors seem to behave differently as they hit the surface - it's smart to try some experimental dips to master your paints before actually dipping your enclosure.

Work quickly. The paint is drying on the surface of the water even as you drop it in. It doesn't even take a minute for a thin coat of floating paint to tack up.

Swirl carefully with a stick to make your designs and move the paint where you want it. Be aware that the more you swirl, the more paint you will end up with on your stir stick instead of on your work piece.

Dip your pedal slowly and carefully (on the end of a stick or a coat hanger so your hand doesn't end up getting swirled too). The paint will be pulled onto the surface of the pedal and dragged underwater with the pedal. After it's completely submerged, use crunched up newspaper to clear an open spot on the surface of the water to pull the pedal back out so it doesn't end up with swirls on top of swirls.

Pull the pedal out. Blow or shake the water off. By the time you're finished doing that, thin areas of paint will basically be dry, medium areas will be tacky, and thick areas will be on their way. Hang it up to dry in a wind/dust free area.

If you hate it, wipe it off with mineral spirits within an hour or two and start over.

If you like it, let it dry a couple days and then top coat with something tough.

thanks! this is what I used to clean my caps...Was it worth the wait? nah, prob not but I was impressed how clean they came out of the machine after it was all said and done. I did 0 when it came to scrubbing my caps clean :) just running water over them after the ulrta sonic cleaner had them looking new

> I plan to dose one "thread" of the cap every month.

Flourish Excel is only active in the water column for ~24 hours before it breaks down; it should be dosed daily or every other day. Monthly would be essentially pointless.

Also, you might find this useful! Great for easy dosing in smaller tanks; I have a couple of them.

Vodka or rubbing alcohol. Or denatured alcohol. It may dry the o-rings out some, but otherwise you'll be good to go.

May also want to give a cheap ultrasonic cleaner a try. I used distilled water in that to clean everything. Works pretty well.

I've heard a lot on here, and online, it's pretty common for your first batch to die off, the key is if you have babies or the first batch has babies in your water, if the water is in the acceptable parameters that you say, will be born and used to your water and will thrive. I just recently started and my first batch all died I got from my LFS then I orders 10 from shrimp farm .com and it came with 2 extra, and I almost didn't notice it came with like a dozen, must've been born a day or two before shipping or maybe even on the way, baby shrimp smaller than a grain of rice. All of them are still going strong and I have 3 berried females right now. Of that batch I've lost 3 or 4 adults.

Edit: also saw your looking at getting a TDS meter off Amazon. Be selective in what you choose, I got a couple on there I returned because they were giving me extremely adverse / fluctuating readings all the time. You want to make sure you get one that has ATC, Automatic temperature calibration, or something like that.

I got this one and verified it still my school chemistry lab testing their tap water, RO water, and DI water and compared it with their readings and it was pretty darn close.

Professional TDS ppm Meter | Digital Test Pen Combines EC, TDS & Temp (3-in-1) | 0-9999 ppm & ± 2% Accuracy | Quick and Easy Testing For Hydroponics, Ro System, Pool, Aquarium, Spa and Water Hardness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FPG89CE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fNB2AbFRA3C04

It's out of stock right now it looks like through Amazon? May be available through other sellers or sites ?

I have a 5 lb. CO2 tank that sits on a small shelf in the back of my kegerator, with a regulator to dispense CO2 at 30PSI. The CO2 is attached to the corny keg using some 5/16" gas line and a ball-lock fitting.

The 40 ft. of beverage line is 3/16" (internal diameter) vinyl tubing that is coiled and wrapped with zipties to make sure it doesn't get tangled. Even though that sounds like a lot of line, there is only ~8 ounces of fluid in it when it is completely full. When the keg runs dry, I detach the CO2 and beverage lines, clean the keg, add about a liter of sanitized water (diluted starsan) to the keg, reattach the lines, and push the sanitized water through the beverage line. When the beverage line looks nice and clean (but still has the sanitized water in it), I can take it off and leave it in my kegerator until it's ready to use again. When I add another full keg, I just discard the first glass (which is half sanitized water and half sediment from the cold crash), and then I'm good to go.

I actually got it from Vapexhale, but I think it was a limited run because it's been a while since I've seen it on the website. For an ultrasonic cleaner you can do something like this. I soak the nails and baskets in the ultrasonic cleaner filled with the highest concentration isopropal alcohol I can find. Usually soak them overnight or for a day, but it doesn't have to be that long, and I'll just turn on the ultrasonic cleaner here and there during that time.

​

Then when I'm ready I'll take them out, brush them off good to remove the remaining stains, soak in clean iso for a bit, dry off, and then finally burn them off in the vape with it set to the highest temp (in case it needs to be said, always be careful with iso around heat, otherwise you might lose some hair or go boom).

https://www.amazon.com/Kendal-INDUSTRAL-DIGITAL-ULTRASONIC-CLEANER/dp/B0018IIPFK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1478232658&sr=8-7&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner+kendal

I bought this and it was fine for cleaning the BCG. You really need good solution for it to work well, something like Simple Green Pro HD is amazing compared to just soap and water.

As a couple other people have said, find a few recipes you think you'll find interesting and buy those flavors. I started like you and picked a bunch of random shit that I thought I'd like and quickly realized I didn't know what I was doing and couldn't really make anything good with what I had.

I also suggest buying a 12 pack of 30ml and 60ml droppers from Amazon. Eventually you'll want to get 120ml's too. You'll see that only 15mls just don't cut it in the long run... when you take into account steep times, sometimes you'll have to wait a couple weeks to know how a recipe turns out. When you find a good one you'll want to make way more than 15ml.

May also want to pick up some disposible pipettes like these. I find that even if the flavor has a dropper, they're usually a small diameter and if you're making a big batch of something you'll be there for 10 minutes getting 50 drops out of it. Pop the dropper off and these make the process go much faster.

Not that they are totally worthless, but most people say a used <$100 scope is better.

The other option is save your money for something like this for $400: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012938E76/

There are firmware mods that take it to 100MHz and open up all kinds of features, like serial decode.

Sample containers:
௳ The bottles with the green flip-caps are from Amazon (~0.5oz/15mL each, $21.99 for 36).
௳ The little pots with screw-on lids are also from Amazon (3mL each, $7.99 for 50). I wound up making 2 pots for each sample because they were a little smaller than I had imagined (Starfish Lord, grant me the presence of mind to look at dimensions before ordering things), so next time I might get these slightly bigger ones (5mL each, $10.00 for 50).

Decanting supplies:
௳ I used these plastic transfer pipettes (3mL, $4.50 for 100) to decant anything that I could suck up with them.
௳ Anything in a pot was decanted using these wooden spatulas ($22.98 for 500); I put 2-3 in with each potted sample and kept the rest for myself. (Forgive me, my Spiny-Skinned Savior, for lacking the diligence to wash and dry my plastic spatulas after each use; pray accept my disposable compromise or guide me to a better way).

Baggies:
௳ The small ones are from the Container Store (2.5” x 3”, $0.89 for package of 10).
௳ The larger ones are from Wegmans, but similar ones are available at Target (3.5” x 5.5”, $2.24 for 64).

Markers:
I tested a lot of different markers before I found some that didn’t smear/smudge/wipe-off and that could withstand the watery trials of the bathroom counter. From my own stash, these three worked:
௳ Gold: Montana Acrylic Extra Fine Point (0.77mm) Marker in Matte Gold (Metallic) (available from Dick Blick for $5.35).
௳ White: Sharpie Oil-Based Paint Extra-Fine Point Marker in White (available from Joann for $2.62).
௳ Teal/peacock blue: Derwent Graphik Line Painter (acrylic, 0.5mm) in Brilliant (available from Dick Blick for $3.96).

This one. http://www.amazon.com/iSonic-P4810-Commercial-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/dp/B005GA1I3M/

I use it for both cleaning attys and speed steeping mixes. This unit is a little bit more expensive than some of the other entry models but the price is worth it. For starters, you can set it up to 30 minute cycles. It has an optional degas cycle and its also heated. I haven't seen any other units cheaper or the same price with heat.

When I'm cleaning attys and parts, I use the heat, only water with a single drop or two of dish detergent, 15-20min cycle with a degas cycle before. Gets threads really clean! After the cycle, I remove the basket and give everything a quick rinse with hot water from the tap, just to make sure any traces of soap are rinsed.

When I use it for juice, I use the heat with larger volumes of liquid or just hot water with fewer bottles. Full 30 minute cycle, vigorous shake (by now the VG is very warm and fluid), a 30 minute rest in the hot water, then another 30 minute cycle. I recommend you do this with caps ON. You can do this with caps off, but you need to come up with a way to keep the bottles upright since you need to fill the ultrasonic at a minimal level for it to work properly, they'll end up dancing around and tipping over. You can always let them breathe for a short period after the last cycle. I usually notice about a weeks worth of steep time with most flavors after this method.

Fluval sells this simple kit. It does get expensive replacing their specialized cartridges, but it's a good place to start if you're only ready to get your toes wet.

If you want to go bigger, it'll cost more upfront, but is cheaper to maintain.

Amazon Shopping list for CO2 under $200:

Cheap Regulator. There are better/nicer/higher quality ones out there. This one is cheap and okay.

Drop Checker

Diffuser

Check Valve

CO2 tubing

Thread tape

Adjustable wrench

5lb cylinder less than $15 to fill at gas supply store

Sure. I generally just place my coils in a thick walled (1 mil or greater) plastic bag with about 2 to 4 oz of ISO 70% or better. Then I seal the bag trying to not trap air in it. I place the bag in the cleaner with the zipper up. I then add hot but not scalding water to the tank to it's marked fill level. I then run it for max time ( 5 minutes )for 2 cycles. Between each cycle I check to see if my ISO is still able to hold more material in it. If it gets darker than rosewood, I change the iso as it's near or at saturation levels.


I use this. At the time i got it it was on sale for $25. Even at it's current price it works really well. Make sure you get one that has multiple time settings so you can use it for other items like actual jewelry.

I use Excel ( I actually buy it in bulk 10 gallons at a time and dilute it myself ) with my CO2 BUT I don't use it as a carbon but instead as an algaecide. The supplement is just a bonus. Polycytoglucolsomene (botched it, but that's what's in Excel) is a strong medical cleaner that's been diluted for the aquarium. It changes the DNA/RNA of algae to prevent replication. Some plants do not like this.

https://youtu.be/eIj67-zOrGk

Watch that video.


The co2 tank I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_dzYNsK4I2fzHX

I have this one which has a 30-minute timer and a built-in heater. It's excellent but I mainly just use it to clean atomizers, though. I don't think the ultrasonic vibration helps steeping any more than just manual shaking. What it does do is strip the ink off the bottle labels. The heat is probably more beneficial but you don't need to spend $85 to just to heat ejuice bottles.

So here we go,

First off a Danby 4.4 Cu Ft fridge, something like this. I got this off of some one on craigslist for a $100. I tried to talk them down but some one had informed them that the fridge was valuable to home brewers.

The tap tower was purchased on amazon.

The line connections were also purchased there, since the ones that came on the tower were incorrect for the five gallon kegs.

The temperature controller was also purchased on amazon. Really amazon was my go to.

Here is the CO2 tank I anticipate buying. I haven't really picked out a regulator yet.

I ended up ordering this: Ultrasonic Cleaner $28.99 from Amazon. It had good reviews and a decent sized basket. I figure if it sucks Amazon is super easy to return. It will be interesting to post some before and after close ups of wire after cleaning since it's obvious there is a tiny amount of dust and probably skin getting left in the wire from handling it while making it.

Yeah, Lahmian medium is great. That will probably work better than the Vallejo TBH.

EDIT: if you're airbrushing with GW paints, get yourself some of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Graduated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495632710&sr=8-1&keywords=paint+pipettes

Makes it a lot easier to get the right proportions of paint/thinner when you can measure. I haaaate the idea of literally pouring paint into the airbrush cup.

Ferts - http://greenleafaquariums.com
Co2 Regulator - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/copy-of-archaea-co2-regulator-pro-dual-gauge-fits-cga-320
5lb Co2 tank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3ONOLGNT00SR9. Co2 diffuser - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MLTRR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bubble counter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GCPM6K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Co2 Drop Checker - http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-Aquatic-CO2-Glass-Drop-Checker-PH-Momitor-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Test-CO2-Kit-/391351972319?varId=660586838351&txnId=650126189026 Co2 tubing and check valve - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/pressure-proof-tube-parts-set
Co2 Drop Checker Solution - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/ph-kit-ph-reagent-refill-for-drop-checker

That should be everything. I would look into EI dosing too. Especially if you're going with dry ferts. You'll have to find a place near you that can fill the Co2 tank. I get mine filled at Beer Depot. Any home brewery store will have the equipment necessary to refill a 5lb Co2 tank. Welding stores also refill Co2 tanks. If you're really luck, you may have an awesome LFS that refills tanks too. If I missed anything, or if you have any more questions, please let me know. =)

i would invest into a $25~35 ultra sonic cleaner on Amazon. They are great for glasses, other jewelry, etc. I plan on using that the morning of the wedding or something. This is what I have [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Instruments-CD2800/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491254960&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ultrasonic+jewelry+cleaner&psc=1) works amazing

edit: trust me, the ring is most likley dirtier than you think. the before and after is SO different.

I use a little one from amazon: http://smile.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-Instruments/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458135108&sr=8-4&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

I use it with heated water and just a little bit of degreaser if needed. Sure it takes a few batches and a few runs to do everything, but it's only $30 and things come out super clean.

Great question... now I have one for you -

What method are you using to clean your pen?

Edit - how do you flush your pen?

Lamy's website has a short instruction video here but it is really short... and low on details.

I would suggest you get yourself a Bulb Syringe for a few bucks from your local drug store or dollar store and flush with the bulb syringe. Amazon and pen shops such as Goulet also sell them. Also check Goulet's video about pen flushing (and others on YouTube. Flushing with cold/luke warm water with a single drop of dish soap usually works.

Next step could be an ultrasonic cleaner -

Some inks will 'stain' fountain pen materials (some dark blues and reds) which can take a bit more work.

Good luck with your fountain pen cleaning.

When starting up my CO2 I gave in and bought a tank and solenoid regular off of amazon both totaling a bit over $100 with some lucky sales. I've used Flourish Excel before but haven't noticed anything substantial until using pressurized system. Tank and Solenoid. The tank is on sale currently I might just buy another one, the 5lb tank with this solenoid sits perfectly under my aquarium stand and works with the space in my stand builds.

If I were to use CO2 on my 10g I would buy a smaller tank like their 2.5lb size and another solenoid. I've never gassed fish nor do any of us want to try, I'd rather have a reliable setup that is cheaper in the long run vs buying the smaller overpriced kits.

Overdosing excel can kill algae but I did just find this.

I would recommend either our iSonic P4810 model (which has a tank size of 18.3x15.3x7.7 cm) or our P4800 (which has a tank size of 16.5x13.5x6.5 cm).

Either of these models can be purchased off of our website at http://www.isonicinc.com/ or Amazon at https://www.amazon.com/iSonic-P4810-Commercial-Ultrasonic-Extraction/dp/B005GA1I3M/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

OR

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y72I92/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_5_w

I would also recommend that you try our iSonic Jewelry & Eyewear Cleaning Solution. This solution is capable of breaking down oil, dust, dirt, and other residue. Also available on our website or Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/iSonic-Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Solution-Concentrate/dp/B01DNP4U0O

I've had my eye on this Rigol oscope for years now, haven't been able to talk myself into it yet:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MYND5A

Is there a different one you'd recommend with good features but perhaps a bit cheaper? I'm not a pro, just a hobbyist that likes nice tools.

There's a ton of them out there, but something like this is fine. If you are trying to go really cheap, then a battery charger is just fine. Just avoid newer ones because they usually come with an automatic shut off that won't work with your solution. There are a lot of electrolysis tutorials, but just knock any flaking paint off after you're satisfied and prime and paint. You might consider a self etching primer with a rust inhibitor if it's going back outside.

I used this one, and it got the job done pretty well. Usually, ultrasonic cleaners that are sufficient enough for casual use are under $50, while more "professional grade" or "industrial" ones will cost more than that. As for the process, it's tedious, but simple. I disassembled the switches until I got something looking like this, then I organized the parts into piles. I then washed each respective part pile by putting them in the cleaner and submerging it in water, and adding a very little amount of dish soap (about a quarter of a teaspoon). I ran the parts through the cleaner twice. To rinse them off, use distilled water so there are no water impurities left on the parts after the water evaporates. Finally, I waited for the parts to dry, I click modded them, and I put them back together.

Also, I'll head to the /r/olkb question thread to inquire about the Preonic case.

40 gallons is going to be pushing on what you can accomplish with DIY, so I would avoid going that route, as you wont wind up happy.

As for what you will need, it is really very simple, but not particularly cheap. You need a CO2 tank, a regualtor, bubble counter, diffusor and gas line.

CO2. Go with a 5 or 10 lb tank. If you can find used even better as most places just swap tanks when you fill them, so you get your new shiny aluminum tank, bring it to get filled, they take it and give you a banged up used one back. A 5lb tank should last 3-4 months depending on how many bubbles per second you are pumping

Regulator with Bubble Counter and solenoid, the solenoid is what shuts off flow of CO2 at night, when plugged into a timer. Plants don't utilize CO2 at night, so continuing to pump it into the tank is just wasting gas. Keep it on the same cycle as your lights, or better yet, and hour behind, so it turns on and hour before the lights come on, and off an hour before the lights go off.

Diffuser, you can spend a little or a lot here. I dont really see the need to spend a ton with this part. You do want to see if the unit has a check valve though, and if not, you will need to add one between the bubble counter and diffuser to prevent a back siphoning.

Gas tubing very important you get tubing rated for CO2 gas. Do not use regular air line of the gas will eat right through it

Yes, it should. 1000mg = 1gm. So knowing that you can convert an amount in milligrams to grams by dividing by 1000. So 30mg / 1000mg = 0.03g, or it would show on your scale 0.030g. It doesn't even have to be that difficult, simply knowing there are 1000mg in a gram you can see that the three zeros behind the decimal represent 999mg - 1mg. So 0.300 would be 300mg, 0.099 would be 99mg, so on. If you wanted to make the dose lower you could measure out 0.015, so 15mg, and dissolve it in 30ml of your solvent. 15mg / 30ml = 0.5mg. So that'd give you 0.5mg per 1ml.

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Imo this is the safest way to this RC considering it's potency. Also I'm glad you responded, I realized the glass bottles I linked don't have ML markings on the droppers, and I can't seem to find of those online now. I got mine from Ceretropic a while back. So if you want to use this method and don't have a glass bottle either make sure you can find one that does have the MG marking, or you can buy this dropper seperate. Be safe! :]

Here’s the one I got. I love it. I use it to clean everything: rings, necklaces, sunglasses, phone cases — basically if it’s small enough and not electronic, I put it in there lol

This is the one I bought and it works great; There are many on Amazon like it. I use 1/2 tablet of denture cleaner (I use target brand) in the ultrasonic cleaner morning and night.

I can’t really tell, but I haven’t worked with jewelry. Someone else here might be able to. Silver? Pewter? Zinc?

You could try cleaning solution or an ultrasonic cleaner. Many jewelry stores have those machines if you’d like to have someone else do it. If you use a solution, test a spot on the back first to make sure there won’t be a reaction.

You can have good luck scouring eBay or craigslist for a used analog scope. Also some of the the Chinese off-brand models have good reviews (Ex - Rigol DS1052E 50Mhz scope)

As far as a bench top PSU I used an old ATX power supply from a desktop supply which gives 12V/5V/3.3V rails.

If you want to keep your rings clean all the time, you can invest in an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner. Most of them use a powder-based cleaner that you mix with water. They don't use much water, and the solution will last a long time unless you're cleaning 20 pieces a day. If your well water is too hard, just use bottled water.

Mine was a bit more, but you can purchase a good ultrasonic cleaner for ~$40:

www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-MGUC500-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglass/dp/B007Q2M17K/

I use a regulated power supply. Similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RNT1CD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_69N1DbPAKQTZV

You want to make sure to use DC (Direct Current) and not an AC(Alternating Current. The regulated power supply lets you adjust the current and give more control. I use 5VDC for Carbon Steels and 12-25VDC for Stainless. I put the Positive on they item I want to etch and the Negative on a bolt with rubber bands holding a cotton balls on it. I use just salt water. Always keep it moving around when you are etching. I finish with a brass wire wheel to clean up. I get my stencils made from a local vinyl shop. They work great for me.

If I were to start over and buy new equipment, one of those all-in-one systems would be very attractive. My only concern with them is I don't have a high voltage outlet and I wouldn't want to deal with an under powered system.

For a traditional system I'd do something like this:

• $ 55 Hot Liquor Tank
  
• $105 Mash Tun
  
• $240 Kettle
  
• $100 Burner
  
• $200 Fermenter
  
• $250 Ferm Chamber
  
• $ 35 Temp Controller
  
  Total $985
  
  Bonus Upgrades:
  
  
• $ 25 Dolly
  
• $120 Water Filter
  
• $110 Grain Mill
  
• $ 15 Flask
  
• $ 30 Stir Plate
  
• $ 20 Yeast Ranch
  
• $490 Kegerator
  
• $ 95 Keg
  
  Total $905
  
  And you'll want various fittings and hoses and more kegs and a stir paddle.

I use [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B2BIKY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It has a heating element and the timer runs for a max of eight minutes.

I've found that a little over three hours of cycling (about 40 cycles) in the cleaner steeps about the same as two weeks conventional. I transfer my juices to glass bottles before running in the cleaner. My cleaner is in the kitchen, so I run it whenever I'm in the room, turning on the heat every two or three cycles.

I usually just soak my rebuildables in a glass of isopropyl alcohol, but sometimes I'll stick the glass into the cleaner's water tank (filled) for a few cycles, though other than the drip tips I can't claim that it makes any big difference in cleaning.

Be careful with plastic clear pieces, they can etch and become cloudy with repeated cleanings, though being diligent with changing the cleaning solution may mitigate that.

I'd never heard of anyone doing it either. I just got curious about ways to clean the foils better and started experimenting. I just use soap / water in the solution and run it for about 10 minutes.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K

For reference:

As for the mixing equipment, see below:

• Scale
  
• 10 mL Bottles
  
• 30 mL Bottles
  
• 100 mL Bottles (At least one will be used for nicotine. This will be your 'working' bottle that you keep out on your desk. The rest of the nicotine will be placed in freezer)
  
• Bottle for VG
  
• Nitrile Gloves
  
• Vegetable Glycerine
  
• Propelyne Glycol
  
• Nicotine
  
• Pippettes (Optional)
  
  The pipettes are good to have just in case you only need to transfer a little bit of PG or get a flavoring that doesn't come in a dripper bottle. If you purchase from one of the three flavor vendors I referenced in my post, they will come in dripper bottles. You may never use the pipettes.
  
  My personally recommended list of flavors to start with, aside from the flavors you will buy for recipes you find:
  
  https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY_eJuice/comments/45ccfd/the_unofficial_list_of_flavors_for_beginners/
  
  Just pick whatever you think sounds good on this list and you CANNOT go wrong.
  

I use an ultra sonic cleaner ( Amazon, $30) and use some cheap denture cleaner like many recommend here. Mine are crystal clear. Seriously, just buy one and use it everyday. It makes things so much easier.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0142G8ONC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bok choi has been the easiest thing for me to grow by far so there's definitely something off in your system.

Having a pH pen and an EC pen is pretty much critical to diagnosing nutrient solution problems. This is the pH meter I have, which is kind of mid-tier but comes with calibration solution. Also pick up some storage solution as it will reduce how often you have to recalibrate the pen vs keeping it dry. EC meter you can go cheap on, I use this one and get good results.

Sorry to keep bugging you but does something like this seem like it would work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CO2-Regulator-aquarium-Two-Gauge-Solenoid-Magnetic-Valve-CGA320-US-thread-110V-/272333167283?hash=item3f68525ab3:g:YSEAAOSwyLlXprmJ

https://www.amazon.com/Tank--Aluminum-Cylinder-CGA320-Valve/dp/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1472673301&sr=8-7&keywords=5+lb+co2+tank (actually found it for 5 bucks cheaper here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3L3Q6EPZRMXO8)

That gets me to ~$110 for full setup as I realized I have a power head I can feed the co2 into for dispersal.

Thanks for your responses.

I have a cheap 2.5L one. Enough to do an 11-32 cassette and chain at a time. Great widgets.

Add a little bit of Rock'n'Roll Miracle degreaser to the water, turn it on and walk away and do other things than scrub. You really don't need anything that aggressive/toxic, people use Simple Green--but that is really overkill IMHO.

I've gone the DIY c02 route and it is just not worth it. You can buy a regulator and 5lb tank off amazon for like 120$ and that will set you up for a year. Then it's like 15$ per refill. You can dial the c02 to whatever level your tank needs. IMHO I'd get pressurized c02 just so I don't have to deal with algae problems.

The number of hours spent refilling soda bottles, growing yeast, cleaning, dealing with c02 swings and no precise control with very very little benefit to show for it. Easily cost more than 120$ in time, effort and supplies.

Tank

Regulator

It's difficult to get the excess resin off of areas that have support. The surface tension causes it to pool.

I recommend getting an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner. You can find them on amazon for around $20 USD. Fill the cleaner with isopropyl alcohol and let it vibrate for a few minutes. It will solve the problem.

Alternatively, you can try and scrub out the areas with a toothbrush, but I find that it takes to long and the results aren't as good as the ultrasonic cleaner.

EDIT: I just checked and they are actually closer to $40. I have this one and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-stirrer-magnetic-Stirring-Capacity/dp/B072K24X5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3HRCHDJ7MIVEY&keywords=magnetic+stirrer&qid=1550973819&s=gateway&sprefix=magnetic+stir&sr=8-3

This is the one I use. With a mag stirrer you shouldn’t need any heat at all. Especially for standard concentrations. It’s flat out amazing. Takes all the work out of it. No sitting there stirring with a glass rod for a half hour. Just set it and walk away. Come back a half hour later and you have freshly made gear all in perfect solution.

I was really hoping that was the case, but I swapped the cheapo power supply with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RNT1CD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And The same thing happens. I've got the Current dialed all the way, with the voltage at 5.5 (same as the power supply that works). It shows a 1.4 Amp draw, which the supply should be more than able to handle. Same deal though, servo runs to zero. Still works fine using the dedicated 5v supply putting out 5.5v.

Personally I use this ultrasonic cleaner. When I go to change coils I throw it all in there and put on a few cycles and it comes out surprisingly clean ( seriously, these things are like magic ) . When my driptip looks a little funky I just throw it in solo and it's good to go.

Sounds good. I find it amusing that you played it upside down.

Is that scope one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195ZIURK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am almost done building one with the intention of using it in my eurorack setup. What does the nob do on it?

Got the Magnasonic and can’t recommend it enough. I love it and you can choose the amount for the cycles (shortest is 3 min) Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer for Eyeglasses, Rings, Coins (MGUC500) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NY7VDbVMQ9DJ6

I bought a jewelry cleaner machine like this....http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZVYAVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1456890117&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=jewelry+cleaner+machine
Best thing I found so far... I wish they made a tiny fuzzy brush to really get in the nooks

Oscilloscope kits are great. I just did this one a little while back. It was a lot of fun and handy for the price. They sell an acrylic case kit separately too.

kuman 3O-IUX5-O0TZ DSO 138 DIY Kit Open Source 2.4" TFT 1MSPS Digital Oscilloscope Kit with DIY Parts + Probe 13803K, SMD pre-soldered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195ZIURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LzIQDbP8TT31D

I also got this little signal generator kit to check the O-scope function.

Naravis Gelatinized Black Maca... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM70CMY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

My experience with consumer ultrasonic cleaners has been great. If you fill the chamber with water, but use a separate container to hold iso & your gear, you won't have to worry about cleaning.
I use this little fella https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q2M17K/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A3OI2CVBA9DB25&psc=1
[Sorry hyperlink isn't working] which was $30 when I bought it.


That and a shallow tupperware. Any cheap ultrasonic with reviews, really, just get the dimensions of the chamber and make sure you can find a suitable container. I remember reading about an immersible ultrasonic transducer, like just drop the end in a bucket and it vibrates the water, but couldn't find anything. Just industrial ones.

You could probably get away with just doing everything mentioned, but just using a Tupperware container and gently shaking it every 10-20 minutes or so within an hour of soaking with the denture tablets. Ultrasonic cleaners are pretty cheap though, especially compared to HP switches: https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-Instruments/dp/B00HZVYAVM

25% phosphoric acid isn't particularly dangerous, and it's not horribly corrosive. Plastic or glass will be fine. I wouldn't let it sit on metal for an extended period of time, so be careful if you plan to use metal needles with your syringe. Plastic transfer pipettes work nicely, though. I like this style because it allows you to eyeball the amount you're adding without needing anything like a syringe.

Buy vinegar, bicarb, food colouring and pipettes. Put the bicarb in a tray, and mix the vinegar with food colouring in cups. Let the kids use the pipettes to drop vinegar into the bicarb and watch it fizz and bubble!
I do this with my class all the time, and they love it. The colouring just makes it extra fun. Of course, you can also just put the vinegar in a cup or bottle and drop the bicarb in... fwoosh! Explosion!

Say I'm building a mini ECU simulator. I need to provide 12v @ 5A DC over OBD-II. What's the best way to do this, with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Alligator/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=zg_bs_318022011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P1DKJT59MMVX11ZWARXM ?

Joy4Less Professional Grade Ultrasonic Cleaner 4820WPT with Heater and Digital Timer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009B2BIKY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_k34.tb1DS40Y7

It's pretty damn good. 8 minute cycle, and the heater gets scolding hot with a quickness.

Have had it for over a year now and still works as good as new. I use it frequently.

I just started using kegs and it has made everything easier. I built a keezer recently, bottling everything became massive chore, and carbonating is easier. https://photos.app.goo.gl/JKegtXLcNKLTACaw8

And as far as SNA, I never do that, I've tried it and never really tasted a difference and it's a hassel. I bought a cheap stir plate and start my yeast a day before and that seemed to make much more of a difference. This is the one I got and don't worry about buying a stir bar if you get it, the stir plate comes with one. Magnetic Stirrer Magnetic Mixer with stir bar (No Heating) Max Stirring Capacity: 3000ml https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072K24X5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h2x4CbYEJT43Z.

If you get kegs try to buy used ones, I bought all mine used, they really don't fo bad you just have to change seals from time to time or the posts.

Here is the one that I use. It's heavy, but works pretty well for me.

I use this one http://www.amazon.com/Kendal-Industrial-Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/dp/B0018IIPFK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419728850&sr=8-3&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

Works great. For water damaged electronics I mix denatured alcohol and distilled water to 80 percent. Finish with a quick dip into pure denatured alcohol and dry under a heat lamp.

I dont charge bench fees. If I bring the phone back to life I charge about 40% of the retail value of the phone.

If the phone got wet and still works but they want to be sure it doesn't get damaged further I charge a flat $45 for a quick teardown, scrub and wash.

I clean jewelry and stuff for customers free of charge while they wait for their phones. I use a different mix depending on material.

The only parts you should be putting in the USC is the motherboard or a daughter board with no microphone/speakers or plastic bits on it. You can wash frames if they are stripped of everything. A hot USC bath will fuck up all the adhesives so be prepared to strip those before hand and replace them.

USC cleaners can be harsh. Dont make the mistake of putting plastics in it. The heat and chemicals will do strange things to them.

Even a $20 oscilloscope(full disclosure: this is my video) is better than a DMM when it comes to debugging anything beyond the most basic circuits. But if you really want to splurge, buy him a ~$349 Rigol 1054Z. That's a professional-level instrument on a tinkerer's budget... I used to use a $40,000 Tek scope, and honestly I prefer the Rigol's user interface... I only use the $$$ scope when I need more than 100 MHz analog bandwidth (which is rare for most engineers to ever need).

Ultra sonic cleaner on amazon is $30 shipped. Worth every penny to keep you vape gear clean! Bonus you can speed steep the odd bottle of juice with it.

Popular hobbyist benchtop scopes are rigols DS1052E and newer DS1054Z. Both easily hackable for expanded features.

Seeed studio also has very decent pocket scopes, ready-made DSO models



I own the DS1052E(hacked) and DSO Nano V3(alternate firmware) personally. Both have been great, but id opt for the newer 4ch rigol if i were on the market now

They seem a bit expensive from amazon, though...

Something like this

One of the best fountain pen related purchases you'll make.

Yeah, I make sure to not shake my bottles, I stir them instead. This keeps paint from accumulating on the top of the bottle cap, preventing it from drying the lid shut as well as preserving the paint longer.

I also buy a ton of these pipettes as well as these medicine cups every few months. I always transfer my paint to a little cup to mix / thin it.

Another tip to extend a paints longevity is to never place thinned paint back into the jar, as it can cause some paints to gel and become useless over time.

I use an ultra sonic jewelry cleaner with gem and jewelry cleaner or simple green. Then just hit it with a tooth brush. Works great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q2M17K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/178-5677744-3419908?qid=1458924430&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ultrasonic+jewellery+cleaner

Watch leaving plastic in simple green too long, eventually it will eat the plastic.

What are you using as a dropper? I use 3ml pipettes after trying a few other things and they are perfect for it. They have a large enough hole and suction power to pull up thick, goopy oils and precisely and easily fill a gel cap.

.. by Jove, I think I am. I've heard of folks using brake CLEANER to strip models, hence my knee jerk reaction.

You can get an Ultrasonic on Amazon for like $40. https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500241361&sr=8-3&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

It's also really good at cleaning uh smoking paraphernalia, not that I would know.

I just got a magnasonic on Amazon. It was this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZVYAVM?psc=1

Right about $35. I just opened it up last night. It seems well built but I don't have anything to compare it to. I haven't run any coils through it yet but it did clean the jewelery that I tested it out with. This one has the auto 3 minute timer that someone mentioned. So if you want it to run longer, you have to press the On button again after it shuts off.

for moving paint around you can use a drinking straw, just dip it into the pot a little, then cover the end with your thumb, move it to the palette. if you're feeling fancy you can get some pipettes

I use about a 1:1 ratio on my palette, and I get a couple hours good use out of it just using a cheap plastic watercolor palette from Michael's. You can also make up a wet palette, I know a lot of folks like these.

for even longer lasting paint, or for wet blending, you can get some acrylic retarder

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZVYAVM?keywords=ultrasonic%20cleaner&qid=1461543910&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3&pldnSite=1

This one used to be cheaper on amazon. I think you can look it up on camel camel camel to see its price fluctations. It's been recommended quite often on here over the years. If you have the patience maybe you can wait until the price drops on this bad boy. But most of these jewlery cleaners, at least the ones with the similar dimensions, are rebrands. Kind of like those TDS and PH meters you get for your pool, there's a ton of them on amazon and ebay etc. most will perform fairly similar. (you get what you pay for).

I've considered ultrasonic cleaners. Right now, I just use scalding hot water, then a vodka bath, then I dry them on a paper towel in front of an air purifier.

-

20oz (600ml) seems to be the standard for personal use ultrasonic cleaners. Anything larger than that is well over $100.

These are the two most popular ones on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510610533&sr=8-4&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Famili-FM8000WW-Ultrasonic-Polishing-Eyeglasses/dp/B0142G8ONC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510610511&sr=8-4&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

If you can get the rest of the look maybe doing a "layered" injection of a liquid in to the background would work. Use a pipette to slowly place some liquid down and then another to do the eye. Good luck!

http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Gradulated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0

In an amber or cobalt glass bottle... Not like this.

But something akin to that. You'll have to get a calibrated medicine dropper... They have amber glass bottles with these already included, on the lid to the original bottle...but I can't find that right now.

https://www.amazon.com/Ezy-Dose-Straight-Tip-Calibrated-Medicine/dp/B0071S5Y46

After that, just avoid direct heat & sunlight exposure... LABEL WHAT IT IS, AND THE CONCENTRATION PER ML...

Uh... There isn't much literature about volumetrically dosing with tabs, at least the actual dissolving... But I'd say just play it safe and shake it up a good few times within a 24-hour period before using.

Honestly, I can't. About 5 years ago I just searched Amazon for the best one (by review) under $30 and bought it (not handy at the moment or I'd get the brand) but it has performed flawlessly, though I don't use it daily or anything. This one looks very, very close, the interior basket looks identical. You could always return if it doesn't seem to perform the way you expect.

This is the one I use and it works pretty good. Just don't put the actual watch in. Bracelet only.

https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&qid=1558216329&s=gateway&sr=8-3

id try on of these Rigol DS1054Z Digital Oscilloscope

https://www.amazon.com/Rigol-DS1054Z-Digital-Oscilloscope-Channels/dp/B012938E76/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479681375&sr=8-3&keywords=oscilloscope
they're pretty nice

Used analog scopes on ebay are in the $100 to $200 range, and many are quite good. But Rigol digital scopes are as cheap as $260 and probably easier to use. You can also get a USB scope that uses your computer for the interface and display for I think about $100.

They aren't that expensive, bought mine for 30 bucks and works like a charm. Here's the Amazon link

I've been eyeballing this one for awhile. I've never had an ultrasonic before so I don't know much about it other than it has the same specs as the others with a bigger tray. I've pretty much got my wife sold on it since she can clean her jewelry with it too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0142G8ONC?psc=1

It's way, way easier to mix with 100% PG nicotine solution unless you're going for max VG! Just get some pipettes, if you don't wanna have to clean shit. They're cheap and disposable. Five bucks for 100, free shipping at Amazon.

I've found using eJuiceMeUp, it's just way more simple to calculate crap out using 100% PG nic. Almost all flavours are PG and whatnot.

> - 10 mL syringes to help measure nutes

I am quite fond of these 100 pack of 3ml pipettes.

I'm glad you said something because I wouldn't have known anything about this. I'm using a very small 5lb gas cylinder like this. Do you think Air Liquide would have any concern about this tank? I was planning on putting it in the back seat of my 4runner..

mine was $40 on amazon and it's nice for cleaning jewelry too haha

I got one of these form amazon for 35 bucks and it works great https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Instruments-CD2800/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1500573408&sr=8-6&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

This one seems to have good ratings. There are probably a couple dozen similar ones out there that are just as good.

https://smile.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Alligator/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541456044&sr=8-3&keywords=lab+power+supply

There are also multiple-output ones too -- it all depends on what you plan to do.

EDIT: After reading some of the reviews, do look at what they say about the way this one sets up the voltage. It might not remember the voltage setting on power-up, so you may have to set it each time before you connect it.

It's not a synth, but this DIY oscilloscope is only $20, and you can order them with the SMD parts presoldered. In case you don't settle on a DIY synth, you can get a prebuilt one and this guy for soldering fun!

Just linked one randomly. Here's an even better deal, lol

Lately I've been using disposable pipettes for decanting and some filling. I also trim the tip down to fit into the back of the section for bulb-flushing. I got a pack of like 100 on Amazon for pennies per pipette. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z4QVZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Unless you like pressing buttons every few minutes, I'd recommend against the one I got. I'd look for one with a heater that doesn't go above ~150f, has automatic shutoff after a set time, and has a long maximum cycle on the cleaner.

Thanks! Looks like this is cheap enough.

Ultra sonic cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_udByDb20V8XA4 - and a touch of dawn. Blindingly beautiful when they come out ❤️

I did not go this fancy but here's one on amazon. I wish I had taken "before" photos to show you, but it looks brand new.

http://smile.amazon.com/Magnasonic-MGUC500-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglass/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=pd_rhf_gw_s_cp_2_1XNZ?ie=UTF8&refRID=08AGF0YNJ93YQQR5DEF3

4 Oz bottles for nic, pg, and vg. I find these are perfect for control pouring.

Right now I use disposable pipettes for my flavors... I just started so I only have small 8 ml drams.

I just throw them away... But I have thought about cleaning them out with a squirt of water and reusing. I feel bad when I use 1 pipette for like 0.5 g of flavor.

I'm hoping I can move up to larger bottles and use regular bottle droppers or something.

On my phone... So my links aren't fancy...

Here's $1.99 http://www.amazon.com/Goodnight-Little-Monster-ebook/dp/B007TXVA7S/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=6ATZZU7BRZN1&coliid=I1ELXYZB7KGWPZ

Here's $3.99 http://www.amazon.com/Board-Carlos-Hangover-funny-sticker/dp/B009S9RURU/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=6ATZZU7BRZN1&coliid=I2FRWZ7N9XS5YG

Here's $5.99 http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Gradulated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=6ATZZU7BRZN1&coliid=I2Q8HSKL0UL9Y2

And here's $7.96 http://www.amazon.com/Safari-Life-Cycle-Honey-Model/dp/B004JDJ9S8/ref=wl_it_dp_v_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=6ATZZU7BRZN1&coliid=I2T8LATGUTINMX

Don't think it's close enough to win... But I'm pretty close!

One ounce is 29.5 ml.

One 250ug tab in 29.5 ml = 8.5ug per ml, which is actually a good microdose volume.

Use a marked dropper like this

I have this one. I use it 2x a day with a denture tablet when I am home and it works wonders. If I am traveling or at my boyfriend’s apartment I just use a denture tablet... doesn’t work as well but does a good enough job for my trays on weekly changes.

I'm happy with this model. It's been a workhorse for me for years. I purchased it because it would clean brass casings. My only complaint is the short timer and the heating function is not needed and too hot for e-juice.

http://www.amazon.com/Kendal-Industrial-Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/dp/B0018IIPFK/

For future reference, these are super helpful for tanks that have to be drained in order to access the coils.

Sure, I bought this one, but there are a bunch that are all really similar so I'm not sure it matters too much...good luck!

I use a Kendal from Amazon. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Nalgene-6140-0010-Aspirator-Polypropylene-Threading/dp/B003OBYNBO

cost me 10$ in adapters from home depot to get it to hook up to my sink. works great pulls down to -25hg

It's this one. I got it early this year. It's worked great for me.

I bought some of these transfer pipettes and trimmed the end to be wide enough. I then flush my pens with soapy water first (bowl of water with a little dish soap) and then with clean water until it all runs clear. Easy peasy.

Edit: I stand my nib units up leaning on the tip of the nib (just the unit, not the whole pen so there's not a lot of weight on it) so the water runs out. I find the pens dry out faster that way. I absolutely HATE when I fill a pen with ink only to find there was still water in the feed... watery ink writing is a huge buzzkill!

OP here. I have an old vine zin (and a few others) that I started fermenting last year. After primary, I’ve degassed, put it through malo, racked to clean carboy, degassed again, hit it with sulfites, and let it age. 10-11months later I still have a noticeable bit of carbonization left in the wine. I’m oaking it now, and hoping to bottle right before thanksgiving. Any ideas how I can kill off this carbonization? I’m at the point now where I’m agitating the carboy every other night, and occasionally hitting it with a vac-u-vin. Has anyone ever tried magnetic agitation? Looking for any recommendations that will help make this wine less lively when served. Thanks!

magnetic stirrer

holy crap this is scary as fuck! please please please be careful. it's very obvious you don't know what you are doing. remember 2 grams is 2,000 pills. don't try to eyeball doses or keybumps or anything like that. first step: get a milligram scale!!!! you said earlier you have a gemini 20, that's would work just fine. then you are going to need a graduated cylinder, and some PG. i do 2mg per 1 ml of pg. so i weigh out 100mg of etizolam, carefully measure out 50 ml of pg then mix the two in a vial. just shake it hard core then let it rest overnight then shake it some more (takes it a while to dissolve in PG). make sure to store the vial outside of sunlight because that damages the etizolam (i wrapped electrical tape around my travel vial). then get a transfer pipette or oral syringe and make your dose (half a ml for 1 pill, 1ml for 2 pills). tastes horrible, best to put it in a drink or have a chaser handy. PLEASE BE CAREFUL!!!! it's hard to measure out under half a ml accurately so 10mg a ml means you HAVE to do at least 5 at a time. it's just a good recipe to extreme and dangerous addiction and would make it even harder to taper off.

There's this machine that uses ultrasonic vibrations and some solution to clean it. People use it for jewelry too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xQgPBbC2FV6JC

This is the one I use and I’m very happy with it.

Hi and thanks for answer,
Will that ultrasonic cleaner works for cleaning all tank vape parts?
https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542571761&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=41QxD1i5DkL&ref=plSrch

These work great for mixing Cheap as hell, too.

Disposable pipettes work great for transferring paint.

Yeah there's a discount if you return the canister.

Or you could probably buy in bulk:

https://www.amazon.com/Tank-Aluminum-Cylinder-CGA320-Valve/dp/B00HQQ3WWE

https://www.amazon.com/External-CGA-320-System-Adapter-stainless/dp/B01GIL5EUU/

I wish Soda Stream them self just sold larger canisters so I don't need to change it out so often. Would be cheaper for them and for me too due to marginal cost scaling.

Amazon has pretty cheap stir plates that would probably cost less than a fan/magnet/speed control/box combo. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072K24X5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6ieJDbQC99WWZ

Personally I'd start very small, like $50. I just put one of these together and it works well enough for home projects. I would not buy any specialists tool until there is a specific need for it.

Yes, but I only need something cheap to do OCCASIONAL water damage.
What's a good fluid to use with it? Just ordered this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZVYAVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Think it's half decent for $30??

I bought my fiancé a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for her ring from amazon and I stuck my month old Merkur in there and it came out brand new after about 5 mins.

My DE is usually almost completely white with soap scum after every shave, and I even rinse it with alcohol once I'm done.

Here's the link, we used about a teaspoon of mild dish detergent to go with it.

Magnasonic MGUC500 Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry & Eyeglass Cleaner With Digital Timer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Xyicub0FDWB16

Also, my GF's ring looks like new after putting it in there.

This is the one I have. It's worked very well for me.

I'm just pasting out of the amazon app so if there's some kind of affiliate link (I'm not getting paid) it's unintentional

MAGNASONIC Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry and Eyeglass Cleaner With Digital Timer MGUC500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bcfgzb5ZX226C

for PH i own this one and i bought this calibration solution.

For PPM this guy.

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People highly recommend BlueLabs however, Im poor and these work LOL

Hm, yeah, looks like the one on the ca version is a bit more expensive than in the US.

Back in the day we'd all use to just boil the hell out of our tanks and drip tips and but it was rare to see anything that wasn't stainless steel.

Now I use this this ultrasonic cleaner that's popular on this sub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q2M17K/

First with a drop of dish soap, then you can lift the basket out and rinse it and dump the water and do one more washing. I gotta say the hype was real and it'll get inside every nook and cranny. Just be careful though because it has some power and a lot of the time grub screws will come out and hard to spot those suckers when they're nice and clean now too.

Something like this is a must for every vapor too: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10025488/5648100-authentic-clrane-cleaning-brushes-for-e-cigarette - I'm sure Amazon has something similar and just figure out the conversion to Metric.

Honestly, don't. Skip any starters as they are all generally over priced. Just buy things separately.

Amazon:

VG


Scale

30mL Bottle if you need some for concentrates, nicotine, VG, PG, etc. Or just to put your juice in.

Cheap Pipettes

A cheap $25 dollar stir plate. Being able to reliably get 3x the pitch rate from a set and forget device is worth it to me. It pays for itself in 2-3 brews!


Amazon link for those who might be interested: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072K24X5P

Hey guys as a heads up. In the lab if we make silicone we always degas the mixture before pouring. To degas just put the silicone after mixing into a closed container and pull vacuum. I think even a cheap aspirator will pull enough vacuum to work. Pull until the bubbles stop than you're good to go.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynalon-312635-Faucet-Aspirator-Vacuum/dp/B004AHL77E

https://www.amazon.com/Nalgene-6140-0010-Aspirator-Polypropylene-Threading/dp/B003OBYNBO

Both look promising. Google degassing silicone for more it's a common technique in soft litho.

Edit: For a chamber just get a plastic dessicator. They aren't that expensive : https://www.amazon.com/United-Scientific-55204-Polypropylene-Polycarbonate/dp/B00ES3GPMM

Edit2: Cus degassing silicone just looks so pretty : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbSvzD8g_S0

Edit3: Decent part combo for degassing

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Chamber-Urethanes-Silicones-Epoxies/dp/B00KSWL29I/

https://www.amazon.com/Single-Stage-Rotary-Economy-Vacuum-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=pd_bxgy_236_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1N0WKYM5MHVXTF9FVB8K

Remember keep the vacuum so that it slowly degasses you do not want it to bubble over and all into your chamber.

Get an ultrasonic cleaner with a heating function

Don't know what your budget is but something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0018IIPFK/ref=pd_aw_sims_5?pi=SS115&simLd=1

It says that it have just 3 minutes cycles, that's too low. I'd recommend a cleaner with at least 8 minutes cycle, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q2M17K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , which isn't that much expensive after all.