Reddit mentions: The best interconnects

Wow.. this is easily the longest reply I have ever gotten. I have replied much longer before but yeah.. Not complaining at all thanks for taking the time to write it. I will reply as I read through.

Wiring for me I have never been all that hesitant to. I have been hit with 120 a few times and it's mainly a burn for me. The one that really surprised me though was taking apart a blender and well I had shorts on and you can touch one wire and be fine just not both unless you and the wiring are grounded of course. Anyway I was on my bed and one wire was touching my leg and the other I grabbed with my hand... So that was an interesting experience.

I am the type that will take one of those cigarette lighters that electric spark? take off the guard, put your thumb over it and go... clicky clicky...

As for the JST bit I appreciate the links. I am familiar with them and how to do that I just never have. I would need a reason to get them, maybe this is it? But the wago or other lever type connectors seem to be easier and or cheaper. I will figure it out when it gets here.

> personally I mangled the connector housings and pins on my stepper cables trying to swap pins over.

Yeah I think you need the pin remover. I was watching a few youtube videos about it, and well here I believe is the one I watched. Relevant portion is at the 7:05 mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhU0D7fDR98 It's called an extraction tool, or extractor. There are quite a few different ones for different applications. If I got into solderless pin connections that's one of the things I would buy.

So for me going that kind of connector route would be about 10 or so for the extractor, 20 for the crimper, maybe 10 or so for the connectors. But let's say it was just 30 or so total. Ok... or I could go with the wago lever connectors for 15 and could splice 50 sets of wires that could be undone with a flick of a lever. It's not as nice looking as a connector but it's still doable. Also knowing me, I'd still throw some heat shrink tubing onto the crimped pins. But I already have that and a heat gun.

>Building a cat proof mdf enclosure for the printer so I can take it home within the next month or so is on the cards.

I plan on copying the corner bracing and modifying those. Well I want to replace all the melamine parts eventually but yeah. The idea would be to modify those in a way I could easily attach side and top panels. Likely something like 1/4" plexi glass. I don't like how the socket caps stick out, so I would use countersunk screws to make the screw head flush with the printed brace. Then either on the back side hollow out a section for a neodymium magnet for each corner and do the same for the plexiglass, or maybe thumbscrews? Or possibly just make it so it's like the side of a PC case where it slides in and out The top would likely be semi permanent and attached with screws but the sides would be like just slide the panel up and take it off that way. The front maybe the same way or use hinges or whatever. I don't think I will print any ABS I hear enclosures could help with that. My main reason for doing it is dust. Dust I hear can mess up prints so keeping it enclosed may help with the quality.

For me an MDF enclosure would be really easy to do, I may do that as a frame then attach plexi to the outside and just have a box that goes over it? but that to me seems like cheating and or wasted space... also no challenge. I like challenging myself so unless I absolutely need it and I can't figure out the other bit then maybe? But what I have in mind should be relatively easy to do.

About the router stand... Looks good, but I must admit when I read "router", I thought of like an actual router well the woodworking kind.

The CTC-3D clone? or? I haven't looked into those so I am not very familiar. I am mainly interested in kits not fully working right out of the box... and you answered that later in the post... nice.

The fan bit. I plan on tinkering around a lot with that well the shroud bit. I have thought of an experiment to try to test out which ones are better, and I will throw in different speeds, different nozzles as well and document the process. I will take a few that others have designed, and design some of my own to see how they differ in performance. The test will be of multiple prints of a similar object, essentially 2 poles at varying distances, like half an inch up to say 3 to 5 inches or however long to see how far each can bridge the gap with little to no sagging. Then maybe ledges at varying lengths.

As for the V6 clone bit. I already bought one of these J-Head V6 Bowden and an MK8 Bowden feeder. I primarily got those to see if I like the bowden setup over the direct. If I find out I like the direct I will probably get this. If I like the bowden bit I think I could still get that one and just change out the heat sink and use the other bits. Either or fun times ahead.

>Or even the new e3d aero if you don't want v6 style eating into your build height.

If I need more build height, I can just get some longer rods, and some longer 2020's and extend it out. My main thing is I wanted 12"^2, since this is like 15.75" unless it takes 3.75" more of build height away I don't think I will fret too much.

>Definitely use the stock for a few months

A few months is an eternity for me. Maybe it will take that long to get built and dialed in? Who knows... Either or... the plan is to get the printer from kit form built and working and at least functional with prints. The only "change" will likely be with a 12x12 glass or mirror bed. Once it's up and running and I have a base to work from that I know works. Then I will change it over to bowden with the ones I linked and try that out for a while. Then decide whether I want to get the e3d one or not. The only reason I'd get the e3d one is the socks which I could buy seperate and the hotend tube. If I could find that bit seperate I probably wouldn't buy the complete kit. I know I can buy the "clone" version but the teflon tube is used as a liner and I'd like it to potentially be able to get up to around 300c without worrying about that liner melting. I also plan on getting some stainless nozzles and maybe... just maybe one of the tungsten ones. Not necessarily to use with this printer but likely the one that I design and build after this one. Think multiple independent extruders(not sharing the same block), and large... er build volume. I won't get too much into that idea right now though.

>I'd say the z axis rods are the one part of this built machine that is a little more difficult to access/disassemble easily

Yeah I'd say that looks fair. But that's also one of the selling points for me. That design looks rock solid. Even with the shitty melamine. I think once you get the binding figured out on the Z and have an idea how to do it regularly it will become less and less of a pain. As for the threaded and smooth rods, and only the threaded need to be somewhat loose? I heard it was pretty much all of them until it was aligned properly. Try loosening all of them up a little bit. Running it to the top and bottom then go to the top, tighten things down then down to the bottom then tighten. That should resolve any binding. From my understanding at least. It doesn't seem like you have tried that approach yet.

>TBH the melamine parts aren't that terrible.

Well for me I am not hugely against it but yeah. They work just not for my liking. I was initially hoping they would be actual solid melamine. But it looks like it is actually a melamine coating on top of low quality mdf. If it was actual melamine it would be a lot harder and wouldn't crush that easily. Actual melamine is a lot closer to a plastic than what that appears to be. Here in the states at least melamine is commonly put over particle board for counter tops. It's good so long as you don't get water on the edges as it will eventually swell.

As for the bracing... I assume you have home improvement stores there? If so try to find some of these if you don't want to print out new ones. Just figure out the dimensions you want with those flat corner braces and use those. You may need slightly smaller M5's but those are pretty cheap as well. Or if you have a grinder... you could knock a few MM off the ones you have.

>standard board will do the job just fine. The lure of touch/colour screens for 32 bit SBase boards isn't really for me.

I don't think I will go the touch screen route designed for these, If I go that route I will likely add wifi capability, and add a small tablet with browser functionality ;)... The reason for me, for 32 bit is 1/128 stepping, as well as quieter motors, and can be more complex without the program stuttering due to not being able to keep up with the needed calculations. With that I plan on trying to see the maximum print speed I can get and still get decent quality. Just to give you an idea. I plan on bolting it down to a heavy surface due to the inertia of the motors going side to side to keep it rock solid, that may give you an idea on how fast I am planning on cranking this or the next one up to, and yes I know I will likely need better motors and or stronger drivers and crank up the current. Maybe even a stouter belt system? Enclosed chain perhaps? Or longitudinal setup like this? http://www.technicopedia.com/8094/8094-2longitudinal.jpg, well without the extra bits.

As for the USB bit I am going to tinker around with that and SD card, I have a spare laptop I don't really use I can use for that purpose.

> I would be indebted to you if you reminded us what you did and how you did it. I love creating DIY gizmos, and recall your setup being a very manageable blueprint.

I suppose we can arrange that.

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TL;DR - 101 Ah Battery, DIY Distrubution Box w/ Banana Plugs, Mount/CCD/Arduino power cord converted to banana plug, 12V Laptop Power supply and 110V DSLR power supply hacked up, a few bits and pieces, couple of solar panels thrown in for fun.

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The long version

===

• Start with the battery. Mine is an EverStart 101Ah from WalMart.
  
  
  
  What's important is that this be a DeepCycle or Marine battery, designed to deliver low current for extended periods of time (vs LOTS of current QUICKLY, like when starting a car) and be drained to low amounts of remaining capacity and recharged many times.
  
  You completely do not care about "CCA" - Cold Cranking Amps. If your rig ever draws more than 10-ish Amps or so at one time, you have much bigger problems than whether your battery can deliver it. :)
  
  What you're after is capacity, in AmpHours. I'll talk below about how to calculate your needs, if you're really wanting to be picky...but suffice to say, 50-100 Ah should be plenty for any normal AP use, especially if you'll be charging after every evening.
  
  
• Now we need a way to distribute all that power. I built this one myself. Start with a suitable project box, grab a fuse holder (I use a 10A fuse btw), maybe a terminal block for easy connections to the input power, and some banana jacks and wire it all up with some 14 or 16 gauge speaker wire, and you're set.
  
  Mine has banana plugs on the input side, so I can plug it into my 12V power supply when I'm at home. When i'm in the field, I have some battery clips that you can plug banana plugs into like these, but you can also rig up your own if you wish with some simple 3/16" brass tubing and some solder. :)
  
  
• Then we've got a bunch of cables. Nothing really surprising there...it's just the various power cables for the mount, the CCD, and so on, with all their various connectors (usually cigarette lighter plugs) removed, and replaced with banana plugs.
  
  
• Next is laptop power. This is the result of hacking apart a 12V laptop power supply (That company makes more, for several different breeds of laptop) and stuffing the guts into a small project box. Isolated the input power inside the guts, and connected it to some banana plugs.
  
  BE VERY CAREFUL HERE The company that makes these uses black for negative, and red for positive. Great way to get confused and short your power supply, etc.
  
  
• Finally, the DSLR Power for when i'm shooting planetary/lunar. This one takes the most "hacking". You start with an AC power adapter for your DSLR. All you really need is the camera end...the plug, and the little adapter bit shaped like a battery. In fact, sometimes you can buy them seperately, though they're often as much or more than the whole power unit.
  
  Next, read the power supply to see what its output is (or use a multimeter to find out). It is a pretty safe bet it'll be 7.4V, since that's the output of a 2-cell lithium pack, which is what most of them are these days, but check and be sure.
  
  The, grab yourself a little step down module (You can find those in packs of 10 or more for less per piece if you think you need extras for other projects), These guys are slick....just hook up your power supply and a voltmeter, twist the little gold screw to adjust output power, and when it gets to 7.4V (or whatever your DSLR needs) you're all set.
  
  Clip off the output cable and plug from the DSLR power adapter, solder that onto the output side of the step down module, hook up some banana plugs to the input side...done. 12V DSLR power for the night.
  
  
• Finally, because it seemed fun, I grabbed some good monocrystaline solar panels and a charge controller, and rigged up a little wood frame I can set up
  next to the RV. No picture, I'm too lazy to drag them out of the RV storage. heh I do want to be clear, though...having some solar recharging capacity is not necessary at all unless you're just crushing this rig for power (see below), but it IS pretty cool and gadgety if you're into such things. :)
  
  ---
  
  
• Ok, smartass, how much power do I actually need?
  
  Easy...you need the number of amps your rig pulls, times the number of hours you'll be using it, times the number of times you want to use it between charges, times 1.5
  
  The two biggest consumers in a typical AP rig will be the laptop and the cooler on a CCD if you have one. DSLRs, focusers, tracking mounts, etc...None of these things use much power at all, and they use VERY little on a constant basis.
  
  Best way to know for sure is simply to use a multimeter to measure the current each one is using under its highest load. In other words, measure the mount while it's slewing, the CCD while it's cooling, the laptop while it's screen is on and drives aren't sleeping and battery is charging, etc.
  
  Add all those up, that's your current needs....you need to be able to provide that many amps at any given time. (That number almost CERTAINLY ought to be under 10A, hence the suggestion of a 10A fuse above).
  
  Now...multiply that number by the number of hours you'll be running the rig. Say you pull 5A, and will be imaging for 6 hours. That's 30AH of capacity you'll use (if everything's running at max).
  
  Now..maybe you want to be able to go camping for a weekend, and not recharge...so you want to shoot for 2 nights. Ok. 30Ah 2 = 60Ah.
  
  And finally, give yourself a nice cushion, so you don't drain the battery completely (a deep cycle CAN handle it..but they still don't "like" it). Let's say 1.5 times the need, so 60 1.5, 90Ah.
  
  You can quite comfortably figure on a 90Ah battery getting you two full nights of use, with no worries. :)
  
  For what it's worth :
  
  I run a cooled CCD, a Losmandy G11 mount, a Toshiba laptop, an Arduino-based focuser, AND support my son and I recharging our RC batteries (various 1.8Ah - 4 Ah capacity 2-6 cell packs) all off the same 101Ah battery. We can pull a complete weekend (leave on Friday afternoon, image Fri/Sat nights, fly Sat/Sun day) RC/Imaging camping trip and come home with about 20-30% capacity left in the battery. With the solar rig added on, we could go 4-5 days or more, depending on sunlight. I did my recent 3 night imaging trip with the same battery, and wasn't even down to half-empty when i got home.
  
  

just to expand on my other post because I didn't have all the links at the time. Hopefully this helps others too. Feel free to add to this if there are better solutions than these.

MeanWell RT-65B power supply keep in mind that the -12v rail is only good for 500ma. check your modules in modular grid to make sure you don't need more than one of these power supplies. it's super easy to wire the power supply to a busboard but if you don't feel comfortable doing it you'll have to get something like a Zeus power supply.

Vector rails TS-600 is the best value if you are building a large case or want to build more later or if you want to sell your leftovers on Reverb or whatever. You can use these screws to attach the vector rails to the case or the spacer strips.

Rail nuts these are the square nuts that slide into the rails (only for vector rails) they require M2.5 screws 6mm is a good length unless you have some thick acrylic panels on your modules or something like that. you can alternatively use threaded strips but they will cost a little more and I'm not a fan. Not all modules have their panel holes in the appropriate place and sometimes it causes a problem because the threaded insert holes are fixed in one place.

Panel mount plug w fuse you'll need to do a little wiring on this one. match the fuse value to the power supply overall amp draw. Don't go too much over. the fuse is supposed to blow if too many amps go through the case. Having too large value of fuse defeats the purpose.

I like this busboard and they also have the cheapest (Warning! see edit) 3U sideplates although I don't see why you can make your own or maybe even go without them. MDLRCASE actually has some great values on the larger cases too if you decide not to DIY. If you are in the USA shipping is quite an expense though.EDIT: the 3U side plates do not work for vector rails, they are the wrong spacing. They only work for the rails which they sell which are different. So, if you are using vector rails, don't buy these. The busboards are still cool)

If you decide to go for the flying bus cable

build notes:

Each 3U (height of one eurorack space) is approximately 5.25" (133.35mm) but the modules are mostly less than 130mm tall. so you can build the height of a 3U rack so the the interior dimension from wood to wood is 5 1/4" exactly and you'll be fine.

Don't cut wood until you have your rails and spacers or at least rails and a blank panel or module installed so that you will know the exact width you will need for the rails.

Be aware of the depth of your modules and factor the space for the power supply and busboard. don't make the case too shallow or some modules may not fit. Modulargrid is your friend for this and the power draw.

There will be wall level voltage inside your case, so make sure you route those cables neat and secure them well. Cover them if possible and don't let stray screws and stuff fall in there. If they do, power off and get them out. Use blank panels to cover unused spaces. Obviously power off and unplug when installing modules.

I wanted to show off an arcade cabinet that my brother in-law and I built.

Imgur Gallery

We designed the cabinet in 3d to make sure everything would fit. Then cut out everything using a CNC router. We used wood glue and wood putty to put everything together. For the monitor we used a Dell 17" (we had lying around) mounted portrait. The guts of the arcade are

• Internal PC fans used for cooling. We did this because the monitor would get a little warm after playing. Plus it couldn't hurt. Not too loud either.
  
• Speakers are from an old kiosk that we were throwing away at work. I did look at some other solutions but since I already had them and they were powered, we decided on using them. It also helped that the size matched the PC fans so the hole pattern would look nice on the side
  
• Buttons and Joysticks were purchased from [Amazon].(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WDQWK5M/)
  
• We used a Raspberry Pi 3 purchased from Amazon.
  
• For power, we took a power strip and removed the plug and bought (this power socket)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/] from Amazon. Soldered the connections from the power strip to the power socket.
  
• Still waiting on the custom piece of tempered glass that will go on the top.
  
• It's got 2 coats of stain and a couple of coats of polyurethane to protect the wood.
  
  In all it took us a couple of weeks to design in 3D. My brother in-law did all this work. He also cut out everything and assembled the shell. I did all the internal wiring and software side of things. It is running RetroPie 4.0.2. The only really PITA is that this is a cocktail arcade. Most if not all the games needed a custom shader to correctly implement the rotation and dual flipped screens. A big shout out to hunterk from (libretro.com)[http://libretro.com] forums for helping me with this. It turns out that NES, SNES, Arcade, etc... needed their own shader to correctly display the image to both users. Also, the mame emulator has the ability on some 2 player games, to set cocktail mode. That way, when it is the 2 players turn, the screen auto rotates so they can play on their side.
  
  We were pretty impressed with ourselves when we finished. We built it to give away at a foundation raffle a couple of weeks ago and the winner was very excited to win it.
  
  I'll be glad to answer any questions you guys/girls have about the build. I plan on putting the glsl shaders on my github so others using the RetroPie OS in cocktail mode can use them.

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

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In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

Looks very nice. I'm an electrician, put in a lot of lights, and I think your frame within a frame idea is spot on; it's a great way to design a light so it can be installed or taken down without juggling the entire fixture on the top of a ladder.

Your use of the wagos to make a "busbar" was a very creative way of making neat wiring. An alternative would be to use terminal strips with jumpers and if you want to make the wiring super neat, use sticky backs and zip ties.

Great stuff!

Ditch the converter for a NOCO battery charger/maintainer. You will thank yourself later. This one does fine with a 55Ah AGM battery. Also, don't use a wet cell battery unless it's in its own box outside the trailer.

I like your fuse block. I fused the battery feed to mine at 30A, and sized the wire accordingly - 10AWG boat cable would be perfect. All the fuses in my Blue Sea Systems fuse block are 10A and under.

Grab some LED voltmeters and mount one inside and one near your fuses. And one in your car, and....

Unless you need a separate distro bus, I'd skip that. I am using Wago 221-415 connectors as mini bus bars as needed - run a wire from the fuse panel into the cabin, then up to four additional circuits from that point - lights, etc.

You will find that your main switch panel is less functional than you hoped it would be. I recently removed mine. Individual switches at point of contact are much more user-friendly.

We loved our Fantastic Fan, and I've heard great things about Maxx Fans, but we went back to a solid roof with vent fans in the galley bulkhead.

Multicolored LED strips are fun! We are currently installing two circuits of them in the galley. When you set yours up, make sure you install a controller with non-remote controls. We have had some of the remotes fail, and at least one of them couldn't be replaced. Superbright LEDs currently has a stunning deal on one that fit our needs.

LED strip channels are a good idea. Also get the long clips, which hang on to the channel better.

Your under-cabinet lighting is probably on a 12V wall-wart. Cut it off and hook the LED strips right into your 12V system.

For wiring, get a spool each of 22AWG, 18AWG and 14AWG tinned copper cable; molded cable (lamp cord style) is acceptable. We have used Wiremold NMW1 raceway and surface mount boxes to keep things simple and tidy. Where things turn corners we leave the wires exposed instead of going nuts with the corner and tee fittings.

Get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/ATD-5513-Heavy-Duty-Circuit-Tester/dp/B000M5ZWBA

I know my local auto parts stores sell them for just a few bucks.

Check your cars manual to see the list of fuses. Find something like ACC or Accessory Port fuse, all the fuses should be listed by number. You want to make sure you arent using something like the airbags because if for whatever reason your camera connection does something weird, or you install something incorrectly you dont want to be without any safety features. there is typically a fuse for each cig port your car has tho.

Check your fuse box for that fuse number. now with the power tester connected to a ground (the clamp end you can just clamp to a metal part of your car, often times there is a ground nut/bolt near the fuse box, but I have even just connected it to a metal hinge on my door since its connected to the metal body) and using the tip, touch one of the metal points on the top of the fuse. there are two exposed metal parts on the top of the fuse, on each side of the number (for example 3 amps). when your car is off, the volt meter should not turn on/light up. when you turn your car on, try again and it should light up. with the A119 since it has no automatic parking mode, you want it to turn off when your car shuts off which is why you want to tap into a fuse thats off when your car is off otherwise it will constantly record even when your car is just parked in your garage or wherever you don't want it recording.

the red wire of the hardwire kit will connect to that, so you just put that end into the add-a-fuse and crimp it. you just clamp it down hard enough that it will hold onto the wire, even with slight tugging on it.

take the fuse out of your fuse box and put it on the "bottom" slot, and a 2.5-5amp fuse on the top part. this thread shows pictures if i am not explaining that well: https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/which-fuse-to-use-for-powering-my-dashcam.439/

so then you just put the add a fuse into the same slot.

the ground you need to connect to something grounded to your cars frame/body. ideally you would want to use an O ring terminal (like these:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GXQMP66, you can of course find smaller cheaper kits, that was just the first one I found). but if you really wanted to you could just wrap the bare black wire around a ground screw and have the screw tighted down on it. I have done it before and it will work, its just sorta half-assed to do it that way.

I did make a video of the process but to be honest its not the greatest video. every car ive isntalled in has had a fuse box so low and out of the way its hard to film:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYT6HmpeP8U

but some people have said the video was still helpful.

just make sure you know what fuse you are connecting to, make sure you put the fuses in the correct slot, make sure the black wire is grounded and you should be good to go.

OK, here is the short and dirty version. If you need more info, I can give it to you. I'll assume you know the bare essentials of coding, and soldering. This subreddit seems like they don't mind a bit of DIY and learning. There are 2 versions. One has a color changing blade, the other doesn't. The only downside to this DIY is that the LED in the blade could be brighter. I am currently experimenting with different lighting types to see what's best.

For a saber with color-changing ability, buy this wishlist:

https://www.adafruit.com/wishlists/491218

and also this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ONOI9K2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For a saber with no color changing ability, buy this wishlist:

https://www.adafruit.com/wishlists/492907

and also this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ONOI9K2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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You will also need a soldering iron, some wires to put stuff together, and if you're fancy, some heat-shrink tubes. You'll also need a computer with internet access and a USB-microUSB cable that has data-transmission capabilities. Any moderately expensive USB cable usually has data functionality as well. Here is a list of stuff that would get you on your way:

Guide on how to get your microcontrollers up and running:

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-m0-express-designed-for-circuit-python-circuitpython/kattni-circuitpython

Easy-detach wires

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075K4HLTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heat-shrink

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PCQ2LW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Now follow this guide to put it together:

https://learn.adafruit.com/lightsaber-featherwing/circuit-diagram

We're not using a neopixel, so don't worry about that part. Just stick with the LED wiring. This part will take experimentation, so take your time and test-test-test. This guide will help with additional wiring and coding questions:

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-prop-maker-featherwing

Now use this code if you're doing a color changing blade. If you're not, you can keep the code as is, and just manually set the saber color you desire:

https://github.com/robert1233/lightsaber/blob/master/code.py

And you should be good to go! I'm still working on perfecting the code. I'm still learning as well, but this works. The guide I based this off is:

https://learn.adafruit.com/lightsaber-featherwing/software

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Features: micro-USB charging, color changing blade, sound and motion sensor for: startup, shut down, idle, swing, clash. Light up power button.

Cons: This has only been tested with a full-size ultrasabers blade. The LED could be brighter. I'm still working on that.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Tips:

Sound files that I used can be found here. Use at your own discretion:

https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=41379.0

The hardest part of this build is the soldering. If you are comfortable with that and you are willing to do some reading, this is very easy to do. I had pretty much no electronic background and was able to figure all this out in about a month.

Make sure you use the short headers for soldering the feather and wing together! This is very important or the microcontroller may not fit into your hilt! Test twice, solder once.

Don't veer off the wishlist. Everything I picked is low profile and allows for maximum space and flexibility. I went with as much plug and play as I could. The battery, speaker, and charger are all plug-ins. The LED, power button, and color-changing potentiometer require soldering.

If you are going the color changing route, you may have to drill a hole wherever you want the color-changer to be.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I'll upload photo's whenever I can. Like I said, I'm working on finding a better lighting source, so right now everything is taken apart.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I take no responsibility if you shock, burn, or stab yourself; or ruin your lightsaber or any electronic components. This is a guide on how I made the inside of my lightsaber and no more.

As a fellow Mac user, who also has a prusa mendel; I would highly recommend you use OctoPrint + a Raspberry Pi 3. This may not be a just starting out configuration but it makes life a lot easier in controlling the printer.

I use Slic3r for Mac configured to talk to the OctoPrint server through an API call, and I can send gcode to my printer across the network from the Slic3r application. With the RPi camera installed I can keep an eye on my prints without having to be in the same room.

Also you may be happier with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This PSU is a bit cheaper than your standard ATX PSU, it may be a good choice if you're looking to try this hobby out as cheaply as possible. It is a more difficult way of going because you will need to print something like:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199089

To keep live 120VAC from being exposed on your bench.

Path of least resistance to getting started:

Slic3r > Repetier Host or PronterFace or Cura > Printer

The best way I've found (easiest):

Slic3r > OctoPrint

Seeing as I have the same printer and host OS configuration, feel free to DM me and I'll answer any questions you may have.

The biggest current issue with push-in connections is that they're only on the cheapest of devices. This means that homeowners will buy and attempt to install these devices incorrectly. Like 12AWG wire in a 14AWG push-in. Or not properly stripping and terminating the connection on a push in.

There are some great push-in connectors that are used on the market, like the Ideal In-Sure or the more common Wago connector.

The link you reference is for push-in connectors, not push-in connections on devices.

EDIT: I wanted to add, there are even better and faster connectors than the Wago/Ideal push-in connectors. The Wago Lever-nuts are amazing.

Also want to distinguish between push-in connections and push-in connectors (as far as the trade slang goes in my area, every area is different). Push-in connections will be on a device, like a receptacle or switch. Push-in connectors are those like that of Wago or Ideal. Separate from the device.

I apologize for being sloppy with my terminology during this discussion. I know I've interchanged connectors and connections where I shouldn't have.

Wire:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J639G74/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cotton:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X6PQJ2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

battery wraps for custom designs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018I08UKU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Coil wrapping kit: https://www.amazon.com/Coil-Master-Authentic-Tweezers-Resistant/dp/B01GWD5GCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486692532&sr=8-1&keywords=vape+tool+kit

These are all items i have bought and use. some other things i didnt list because it doesnt seem like they are sold anymore for whatever reason. I didnt list other things since they are vape related but not exclusivly for vaping like a vice or drill.

edit added the coil kit. i didnt buy this from amazon but i won it in a giveaway here on ECR a few months back. its the exact same kit and i love it. carry it everywhere.

The kit is also perfect if you need one or were looking to get a new one since its sitting right at that 50 dollar mark

Its very easy to wire these up. The first image at this link shows a good way to wire them. To do it that way, you need 10 Wago 221-415 lever nuts.

You can use thermal tape to attach the strips to your aluminum frame, if you don't want to drill a bunch of holes. That makes it a little easier to assemble.

Definitely do it yourself. If you have any questions, post them on here, or in the forums on LEDBuilder.com, and someone will help you get it wired up.

When I said "not much room for error", I meant that if one or two strips get disconnected, the driver will deliver more power to the remaining strips than their max rating. That is very unlikely to happen. So, don't worry about it much. Just make sure all your connections are good before you power it up.

You can solder or there are a variety of solderless connectors out there. A lot of people take the opportunity while they're replacing the fan to add in some type of connector (JST is popular and fine for something low current like a fan) to make any future swaps easier. If you're a bit timid about soldering you can use something like this - solder shrink connectors. I've never used them but have seen folks on another printing group recommend them. They're pretty much just shrink wrap with a bead of solder in the middle, you just stick the two wires in and heat. It solders and shrink wraps them all in one easy step.

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  

• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  

  
  

  And here's the part list!
  

  
  

  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  

  ---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

The pid:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-REX-C100-Temperature-Controller-Thermocouple/dp/B07QS2W736?th=1&psc=1

It’s Celsius but it’s only $19

These heaters $10

https://www.amazon.com/YXQ-Cartridge-Electric-Heating-Fittings/dp/B06XWB86GF

These connectors are good 10 pack $8.45

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XGYXVXR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wago+connector+3+ten+pack&qid=1570302206&sr=8-3

These cable glands. $2.54

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Waterproof-Cable-Connector/dp/B00EZ76W74/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=pg11+cable+gland+2+pack&qid=1570302379&sr=8-2


Power cable and switch if you want one just take out the switch and rewire it in your box. (Soldering required for switch) $5.49

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-outlet-power-strip-64144.html


You will need 1 foot lengths of the following 16 gage braided wire

6-black
5-white
2-green

Put it all in a DIY box (budget)or you can get one of these: $9.61


https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-CU-3283-Plastic-Utility/dp/B005T5A0W4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=hobby+box+bud+industries&qid=1570303560&sr=8-1

These work well but I’m starting to like my wood box made from old growth plywood salvaged from an old house. Plus it takes the build cost down $9 if you build your own.

Total cost $46
$55 if you buy the box

Credit to this youtube video for the idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xfy2Ae_9tTQ

I've been trying to find a way to Texas rig a Ned Rig to make it weedless and have had trouble finding some affordable light wire hooks with a bait keeper. I found the above linked youtube video and tried it out this evening and it seems to work great! I picked up a variety pack of heat shrink tubing from Harbor Freight for $5. The smallest size, 5/64", worked best and you could definitely go smaller to 1/16" or maybe 3/34" and it might even hold a bit tighter. I tried it with a TRD and it worked fine, I just cut the top/outer corner so it was easier to get the plastic over

Sorry if this is old news but just wanted to share this very cheap way of adding a bait keeper.

Edit: I just looked on Amazon and found this pack of heat shrink tubing: https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-270Pcs-Shrink-Adhesive-Tubing/dp/B073R69KNB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525832477&sr=8-3&keywords=adhesive+lined+heat+shrink+tubing+1%2F16 I would expect that it would work better being a 3:1 shrink ratio and also is adhesive lined which I don't think the HF tubing has.

These precut heat shrink tubing off Amazon. First time trying this, so I have nothing to compare them against, probably something better out there, but they worked just fine.

Underneath is just cheap printer paper through a color laser printer. All the shine is coming from the clear tubing. Could probably improve the quality further by using better/shinier paper but that stuff is also thicker and I don't know how close these tolerances are before it will no longer fit in a mod box. With just the paper added its already a noticeable tighter fit. Higher quality paper might put it over the edge into not fitting.

A couple of things come to mind:

A) Cool.

B) Instead of drilling through your stencils, I recommend using a finishing nail or an awl and banging pilot divots. This centers and guides the drill bit, and keeps you from killing your stencil, just in case.

3) Try heat shrink tubing. It's not terribly expensive, it's fun to use, and it makes you look clever.

D) In the event that you ever want people to think that you are very clever, get a decent soldering iron. If you have a lot of extra money to throw around, get a fancy Weller station. If not, I recommend the adorable Hakko FX-888. Now that the analog version has been discontinued, it's hard to find on sale, but... they're fantastic. If you want to feel fancy, you could get something like this. Look at all those bits! I don't know either!

Sorry for the late reply. First of all, take all of this with a grain of salt. This is my first build, so I am by no means an expert. You should definitely look in to all this on your own rather than blindly trust my purchases.
Here are the tools I got in my Amazon order:

• Wire Stripper
  
• No Clean Flux Paste
  
• XT60 Connectors
  
• 60/40 Rosin Core Solder
  
• Loctite Threadlocker 242 (blue)
  
• Weller 40 Watt soldering station
  
• Solder tip cleaner
  
• Helping hand with LED
  
• Bullet connectors
  
• Liquid electrical tape
  
• Heatshrink variety pack
  
• Chisel tip for soldering iron
  
• Servo cables
  
• 12/14/16 AWG silicone wire
  
• Zip ties
  
  I hope this helps.
  
  

Oh I'm still talking about 3s - in fact this is the exact battery I'm using, but to each their own.

What kv are those motors? Also, how wide are your esc's? The size of the heat shrink depends on the size of your stuff. I believe I used this heat shrink for my esc's, but mine are pretty small. If you want to be safe I recommend a set of heat shrink such as this or this.

I personally don't use braided wire but I've herad that this one isn't too bad.

Make sure to get that power supply! It'd be a very sad thing if you get can't charge your batteries but have everything else done.

Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.

I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:

• PSU Switching Power Supply 400W 12V 33A for 3D Printer Kits 115V/230V S-400-12 (got mine locally for 20€)
  
• MOSFET BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer or alternatively TriGorilla 3D Printer Heating Controller MKS MOSFET for Heatbed Extruder MOS Module (this one is huge, but powerful)
  
• Power socket & switch https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Certification-Socket/dp/B00ME5YAPK - here any 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14 type will do
  
• T-Belt RepRap Champion 5 Meter 6mm Width GT2 Timing Belt for Reprap Delta 3D Printer Kossel Rostock
  
• Pulleys BIQU GT2 20Teeth 3mm Bore Aluminum Timing Belt Idler Pulley for 3D Printer 6mm Width Timing Belt (Pack of 5pcs)
  
• Bushings 3D Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap (warning: you need 8 pcs of these bushings. Couldn't find any listed offer with 8)
  
• Borosilicate Glass Signstek 3D Printer MK2 MK3 Heated Bed Tempered Borosilicate Glass Plate 2132003mm
  
  Printed upgrades:
  
  
• Z-Endstop for 3mm Glass
  
• Improved Fan duct or Fan duct for Anet A6 because my original fell out and killed a print as well as the fan mounting plate
  
• PSU cover
  
• Y-Belt holder
  
• Table nut and cover spring
  
• Anet A6 Dual Mosfet Holder (works only for the small MOSFETs)
  
• Z-axis calibration spacer (not really necessary but nice to have) - print two
  
  There is one small error in the assembly videos: The bed mounting plate (the H-shaped thing) is mounted upside down in the video. The bar that goes across the axes and connects both outer plates should be under the plates, not above as in the assembly videos.
  

Sadly I don't know the type of connector this is, but would be interested to for other projects I have. I'm in need of some small in-line connectors like this.

[edit1] If I'm not mistaken though, it look like some kind of MOLEX brand connector.

[edit2] You could also just splice the wire and add an in-line extension with something like this. You can get them at any hardware store. These are the cripless kind and are a bit more expensive. The others you can get for a few $ if you've got a crimper.

If you really really really hate the idea of soldering, you can use these: https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7

They solder and heatshrink and encapsulate all at once, which is amazing, but they're expensive.

Edit: Also, if you want an iron that's amazing for working on cars, here's the unit I use. It's a butane powered iron. Gets hot in like 10 seconds and works way better than the $25 firestarter turds they sell at the hardware store. http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Soldering-Rework/Soldering-Irons-Accessories/Soldering-Irons/UT-100SI-32612

The 7-pin connector is specifically for trailers with brakes or other power requirements. The 4-pin connectors control lights only, the extra pins on the 7-pin actuate the breaks and provide extra power for things like charging breakaway boxes or running RV refrigerators.

Being a 40-foot trailer, I don't see how there is any way that it would not weigh enough to require brakes, no matter the state. There would be no way to rewire the trailer to use a 4-pin connector and actuate the brakes. Even having a 7-pin connector on the truck would be no guarantee that the brakes are being actuated - most require an aftermarket brake controller be wired in.

If you are comfortable with the lack of braking and just need to do short pulls, it would be a relatively simple process to parallel a 4-pin connector onto the 7-pin trailer wiring so that you could at least have lights. Something like this:

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Wesbar/W787268.html?feed=npn&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiPG_r8G_4AIVQ1YNCh3MwwHPEAQYASABEgKr5_D_BwE

with these

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y

​

Your lights would work and you'd avoid the attention of the fuzz, but I'd be careful about running around without brakes on a 40-foot trailer very often.

Good luck!

​

EDIT: I ran across this that would solve your problem too, I think. A little clunkier, but plug and play. Same issue with not actually having brakes, though.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Mighty-Cord/A10-7084VP.html

So... I have to ask... did you know a resistor and a relay are completely unrelated functionally? As in, resistor resists, adding a load to the circuit, (for various reasons needed) and a relay uses a signal from one circuit to complete a wholly separate, circuit.

Therefore, I don't know why you'd use a resistor in place of a relay. Like, at all. Perhaps I need enlightenment there... :)

As far as what relay, in a car, a standard 12v car 'box' relay will do. This one's cool, it comes with a socket it plugs in to. These are cheap and just lying around in any auto parts store, however, and you can use female spade terminals if you want and just bolt it in somewhere handy.

Don't forget either an inline blade fuse holder or an AGC one, and I'd fuse it for, oh, 5 amps. Shouldn't need much, just make it fast blow, and enough amps to ensure the lights won't blow it, but it'll blow in a short. LEDs shouldn't need a big fuse, really.

Hope that helps ya.

This is actually something I began last year and have only really posted a few teasers here and there. Well now that I've finally had time to clean it up and go back and add in the original cable I figured I'd share it with you all.

This "Stealth SD Mod" as I'm calling it, uses a MicroSD card and reader, however, you could just as easily use a small USB thumb drive in place of the MicroSD card and reader.

The way the stock USB cable connects to the inside of the controller actually presented itself as quite a problem, and not wanting to cut the cable, or destructively dremel away any of the controller (mainly due to my OCD) only made things harder. Fortunately, I was able to find a solution. Once assembled, this non destructive mod is Plug & Play.

This is actually an early prototype of something a little more advanced I'm working on.

Parts Required

• Nano Hub
  
• Micro USB Male to USB Female OTG Adapter Converter
  
• Micro USB Breakout Signals Board
  
• Kingston G2 USB 2.0 microSDHC Flash Memory Card Reader FCR-MRG2
  
• Heat Shrink Tubing (Optional, but recommended)
  
  You'll also need some wire, solder, a soldering iron and of course a Philips screwdriver (1.5x30mm works for me) to open the controller.
  
  Checkout this gallery for more images.
  
  

  F.A.Q.
  

  
  

• Question: Does the controller have to be connected to Port 2?
  
  Answer:
  >Currently yes it must be connected to Port 2 (Player 2). The reason for this is when connected to Port 1 the system doesn't recognize the controller. This is something I think we can fix in a future update.
  
  
  
• Question: Does the controller still function as a controller?
  
  Answer:
  >Yes, absolutely. Keep in mind however that the draw does exceed the allowed amount, so the USB Current Limit Mod is still required.
  
  
  
• Question: What about USB Brown-outs?
  
  Answer:
  >While the power draw on this is incredibly low you'll still need to perform the USB Current Limit Mod in order to use this (Or use a hub, but that sort of defeats the purpose).
  
  
  
• Question: Can you still use port 2 for other things like USB Thumb-drives, hubs etc?
  
  Answer:
  >Yes, absolutely.
  
  
  
• Question: Can I bring my modded controller to a friends and play on their system with it?
  
  Answer:
  >Only if they have a powered USB hub or have performed the USB Current Limit Mod
  
  
  
• Question: Does it throw off the balance of the controller at all?
  
  Answer:
  >The difference in weight is negligible (Stock 130g vs modded 136g).
  

I'm using Cree CXB 2540's @ 3000K since i wanted better distribution and thought 3590's would be overkill (what people typically go with). Used a heatsink like this to mount each LED (with Ideal chip-lok holder, tapped two holes at 3mm and used some thermal paste) and then just wired them up to a driver using some wago connectors.

Hope that helps :)

I bought this pack of 3:1 in various sizes, and it's the one in the top middle row. I'm not sure what size it is, though I'll have to figure it out soon cause I'm running out and I use that size the most. I highly recommend 3:1 when connecting things that are very different sizes (like the sennheiser connectors to the cable), it helps secure much better.

Edit: Please make sure you turn off and unplug your power supply before cutting any wires.

Parts / tool list below, this what i used but there are substitutes out there.

Note: Main thing that is slightly challenging is soldering the XT60s, basic idea is to “tin” (soldering term) the wires and the XT60s first, then heat the connector with your iron as you put the wire in to get a good fusion. Decent video on soldering them:solder XT60s


My soldering Iron:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZRT4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Flux:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ZIV85A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder (60-40)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G1J3W6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New XT-60’s and Shroud:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PN6N4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Helping Hands (not required, but def helpful)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB38X8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bought this a while ago, but any heat shrink will do:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA3OFA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wire - If you’re new to soldering and need practice, or you’re going to split your cables for Rasberry Pi, or other components, etc:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABOPMEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/46c99s/a_guide_to_making_custom_battery_wraps_for_idiots/

20pcs 29.5mm 18.5mm PVC Heat Shrink Tubing for 1 x 18650/18500 Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018I08UKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9cXpzbQDYWTBP

Here's the process I used 😁 Super easy

On This Guide it only shows it being done to the Power which I found weird. You did it to the "Hotbed" one next to that as well?

That guide also suggests getting this Heat Shrink but that is included with the connectors?

Thank you very much for the information, that is very helpful!

Mount your powerstrip on top, route the wiring into the underside of the top and route it forward, then mount a low profile surface mount switch on the underside of the top so you can just open the drawer and turn it on and off, you can then route it out the back of the box with just a cord and a plug or you can mount an recessed male plug on the back of the box that you can plug a cord into.

I used an IEC plug for the back of my powerbank project and was pretty happy with how it turned out. I used a locking IEC cord to come out of it which I can put a twist lock plug on for cord drops, etc.

You could wire it to a switch. The maker select comes with one like this for example.

Another option is to switch the power supply to an ATX one ( Computer power supply). Then you can either way a switch to turn it off and on, or use something like a raspberry pi to turn it on through wifi which is awesome.

Here is a small diagram i threw together for soldering in an additional fan into power pads beneath the board. I have switches in here because i plan on having a switch for the part cooling fan so i can turn it off when i want to print ABS parts.

Also, get these connectors so that you only have to solder one + wire and one - wire to the mainboard, strip 11mm of wire and plug the + into one connector and the - into another connector. Now you have the ability to add 4 accessories like extra fans or LED lighting.

Just some cheap plastic spacers. Works perfectly. Links:

Spacers: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G1Q300/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nuts:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EFSE32/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Washers:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013GA116M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also worth noting:
Power supply (40A version):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HTM53W6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Used with these terminal strips:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B010UDG6NG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Way better than USBs.

Not exactly cheap, but Wago lever-nuts work great for stranded and solid.

https://www.amazon.com/222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Compact-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66

Not sure why I couldn't see these replies (I waiters for recommendations) but, I wound up buying these on Amazon and a set of Fat Shark Spro antennas. Honestly I need the soldering experienced anyway lol.

You can pretty much do as you wish. You can normally put 2 or more wires in those clamp down terminals.

In my day, we'd use something like this to connect up our circuit.

Extending the cables to the left/right speakers is easy, any regular speaker wire is fine. To join together permanently I'd solder the new wire on and heatshrink. Or for removable I'd use spring connectors like this https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503640678&sr=8-1&keywords=wago+connector

PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fused Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mosfet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The PSU has a built-in fan that kicks on and off when the PSU gets warm. I don't plan on printing things with any crazy high temperatures, so these upgrades were probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather have components that are a bit more trustworthy than what comes with a $150 kit.

i've had this problem many times.

its almost certainly that your wires are making intermittent contact. i've had to replace my bed sensor wiring and power wiring about 4 times.

once however my actual temp sensor cracked in half and i had to replace it with a 100k thermistor.

https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-Thermistor-Temperature-Sensor-Printer/dp/B018QL5LPI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481397650&sr=8-4&keywords=100k+thermistor
here are the thermistors and as for the wiring, if thats what it turns out to be(most likely is)

sensor wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01708AYYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

power wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TG1TRL2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i also recommend using https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481397789&sr=8-5&keywords=wago+connector

for the wiring inside the unit, so that your wiring can be replaced easily without buying a new wiring harness.

at first I just let them go however they wanted, as I was swapping between my HD598s and my M50Xs. However, once I decided to use my HD598s 100% of the time for my computer, I initially just threw a few zipties to hold them together, and then I eventually bought some shrink wrap like this, and used a heat gun/lighter to do a nicer job combining the cables. You could sleeve it like this for unique colors/better look

Ended up getting the transformerto fit in the old box. Working fine at 16V 30va setting of the transformer (vs 24V). Used 3 pairs of wire total with this heat shrink tubing and these heat shrink solder wire connectors. Thanks all.

It's not good for weak signals or high current connections. If you don't want to use proper crimp joints, solder the wires inline, either by twisting the bare strands around each other or by straightening the strands and pushing them together so they interleave. With the latter, it may help to spiral wind a single fine strand of wire around the joint. Applying rosin flux to the joint before soldering can help a lot. Cover the joint with a piece of heatshrink tubing that's at least 1.5" longer than the bare area, both for insulation and mechanical support (soldered stranded wire is prone to cracking).

Another possibility is SoldaSplice. It's heatshrink tubing with a ring of solder in the middle. You insert the wires and use a heat gun to both melt the solder and shrink the tubing.

• 6" 20 AWG shielded instrument cable: $0.21
  
• (2) 1/4" mono plug: $1.53
  
• (1) heat shrink tubing (cut in half): $0.02
  
• Total: $1.76
  
  I forgot to factor in shipping for the cable in the total in the title.
  
  Edit: I want to share this cost savings with people and thought this would be the best subreddit to do so. If it isn't, please let me know.

I used one of these, I had them in the drawer. I originally tried to just solder directly to the connector but there wasn't enough surface area to get a really solid connection.

uxcell® 5pcs End Launch PCB Mount Bulkhead SMA Female RF Coaxial Connector Straight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Z95LVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_qjh2wbR3F8Q5S

I'm currently testing it with my Raspberry Pi receiver and if it performs well I'm planning on making a 3D printed enclosure for the antenna to mount it in/on the car along with a GPS antenna to try and make a mobile receiver.

Check out this site. There's a good photo illustration of the right way to safely connect stranded and non-stranded wires.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring/how-to-make-safe-wire-nut-connections/view-all/

Or just buy some wago connectors: https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66/

You guys are awesome!!! This is exactly what I need!!

Do I need to buy a heat gun or could I get away with a hair drier? lol


Link to video - process

Link to heat gun on amazon

Link to Heat Shrink Tubing Sleeve - prob should order the correct dimensions or cable

I wonder how many people commenting here actually have a Trailtech product? I have two of them.

You can wire it directly to the battery if you would like. It won't run the battery down. They shut themselves off automatically. They also have their own, internal battery to run the clock. I have my CRF250X set up this way. It has a very... minimal electrical system, there almost isn't any outlet for switched power.

You could also run it off of the tail light or license plate light if you want switched power. Posi-Tap connectors would make this very easy.

Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Connector-20-22-Gauge-Wire/dp/B00389UT3I

I highly recommend you just read through this page on powering single COB led lights. Even if you have only a little bit of technical know how you can do it. Then build a light using this LED, bought with a discount code, Growmau5. Then mount it to this if you don't have a way to drill and tap this instead.

^If ^you ^go ^with ^the ^drilling ^and ^tapping ^you'll ^need ^an ^old ^cell ^phone ^charger ^to ^power ^the ^fan, ^but ^it's ^more ^compact.

That LED can be powered by this driver at about 2800mA for a nice 100 watt light under 100$.

Edit: Oh and an old power cord and these to put it all together.

I used a dual usb with a magnetic/water resistant closure and really like it. I’ll link it later when I get home if you want. I also tied into wires instead of direct to battery they make wire tie ins that just clamp on like this:

Ginsco 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n4bdBbTK9RZRB

Here is my Intro

Ill add a pic once I get out of class!

No Diggity

And on the off chance that I win, either Red Diggity or Blue Diggity

Edot: Of course I forgot haha

A few weeks ago I used the marine heat shrink on my sparrows picks since I didnt have any success with Plasti Dip. I does feel nice, and I don't think ive lost any feedback or sensitivity on them.

For anyone who's interested here's what I used, I just needed to trim them to the appropriate length:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073R69KNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sure no problem. You can probably find them a tad cheaper on ebay but I got them from Amazon. You might be able to use the Jamma harness you have already if it didn't melt. But I'd just a buy a new one. If you need help wiring up after you get the stuff let me know. I'll snap few more pics of how I go it wired up.

Power Supply

Jamma Harness

Module Plug

I have this exact set from Amazon. You'll need the 1.5 mm (approx 1/16") heatshrink tubing from the set. My original comment has a link to the tutorial, which mentions the dimensions as well.

Also for splicing into wires, [Posi-taps] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00389UT3I) work awesome

You seem to be misunderstanding a few things, so it'll be easier just to give you low down.

First, why do you want to switch power supplies? This is definitely an "upgrade", but unless your power supply is broken, it isn't necessary. The psu that comes with it is sufficient, and thousands of people use it. The easiest things to do to make sure it's totally safe is to mount a fan on it (if your model doesn't already have a fan), and attach a fused socket.

Adding mosfets have nothing to do with the amount of power drawn from your PSU. Without a mosfet, what happens is power goes from your PSU to your mainboard, to a mosfet on the board, to the connector on the board, to your hotbed. The on board mosfet and onboard connector are points of failure.

When people "add a mosfet" what they're doing is separating the power. Instead of PSU->Board->board mosfet->Connector->Hotbed, it goes PSU->Off board mosfet->Hotbed.

This allieviates heat and failure points on your board. You use the wires you would be connecting to your board as basically trigger wires, attaching them to the input of the mosfet board, and then the mosfet acts as a relay and the power basically flows straight from your psu to your hotbed.

Also, do not add a mosfet to your hotend. Anyone who tells you to do so doesn't know what they're talking about. Your hotend only draws 3 amps, and it may cause temperature fluctuation by design. It won't help anything, and can only make things worse.

You do want a mosfet for the hotbed though, which draws about 11 amps cold, 9 amps hot. Going back to what I was saying before, and to answer why you don't need a current limiting resistor, you don't want to limit any current. It doesn't matter if you add a mosfet or not. It's a function of ohms law. If your bed has a resistance of 1 Ohm, and you give it 12 volts, it will be drawing 12 amps. That's it. If you add a mosfet, it's job, as stated previously, is so the ~10 amps bypasses your board.

Now, if you do want to get an atx psu, 500 watts absolutely is not required. Looking back at ohms law, we see that the 1 Ohm, 12 volt, 12 amp hotbed will be drawing 144 watts. The 4 ohm, 12 volt hot end will be drawing 3 amps, and 36 watts. So your bed and hotend need 180 watts and 15 amps, your board and 5 steppers will take a few more amps, and therefore wattage. 500 is overkill, but more definitely doesn't hurt anything.

If that's the route your going, what you should do is look up the correct way to connect a mosfet, and then run your bed on a single 12 volt rail, and then run everything else on the second 12v rail.

Hm, it's not very complicated though. If you cut the cable, there are 8 wires inside: 3 black ones, 3 yellow ones, a blue one and a red one.

You connect all the black ones and the blue one together and wire those to the negative wire of a socket like this. Then you take the three yellow ones, connect them together and wire them to the positive wire. Done.

If you're not sure how to connect the wires together, these are more or less perfect for the job. Maybe you can find them locally.

I don't have any experience with any other crimpers than the ones I mentioned above but these are pretty highly rated. You might also consider using heat shrink/solder butt connectors. I've got the kit I linked to here and have been impressed with it. You will need a heat gun though but no crimping involved. Just use enough heat to melt the solder and shrink the heat shrink .

If it doesn't have to be something that can be disconnected easily, then this might work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0EZBYQ

Practice on some spare wires first. Takes a bit of trial and error, but then works great.

Not being able to disconnect might be against code. But then, it's only low voltage. So, probably not a big deal

Amazon, hardware stores. Stuff is everywhere in the electrical sections.

Best part is that if it doesn’t work, or if it affects your closure too much, then you can just cut it off.

here

For hiding the mustard and ketchup cables, I would recommend getting a Silverstone cable extension. You can get them in every colour, and they're compatible with every PSU. You just stick them on the ends of your PSU cables to extend them, but with a nicer colour

Like this 24pin

Unless you want to buy a new CPU cooler, there's not much you can do to hide the exposed cables of the stock one. My only idea would be to buy some Cable heat shrink wrap and cover it that way

You, Sir... need to be turned on to these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electronics-DuraSeal-Butt-Splices-22-18-10-Clam-Heat-Shrink-CPGI-D-406-0001-10/202204344

They've got these, too... which are pretty awesome(Heatshrink with solder!):
https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7

Jesus, have you never heard of insulated butt splices? Solder-and-seal connectors are even better.

There are several products that you can use that will not require using wire nuts, which can be large and difficult to work with in confined spaces with not enough wire. This is one of those products, meant to lengthen wire-connections for various reasons. You will along with this product, need another 2-3 inches of copper wire, the same kind that is the wire of the door bell. You crimp, or squeeze this product on to the end of the wire, without the copper protruding from the wire, and use another piece of wire to extend the connection to your doorbell. With this product you will cut off the visible copper from the wire, and attach the product on the wire including its colored insulation. You might benefit from going to a store that has electrical stuff, and having someone guide you through what you'll need. Needle nose pliers, wire cutters, etc. Hopefully my description is sufficient. Good luck.

Nice find Op!

Might want to look into heat shrink the keep those clips together.

Ginsco 580 pcs 2:1 Heat Shrink Tube 6 Colors 11 Sizes Tubing Set Combo Assorted Sleeving Wrap Cable Wire Kit for DIY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFA3OFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uU53AbJP0KQHA

Do you mean how to connect the 2 sets of 4 wires and cover it so it looks clean?

I do this - The 4 wires are all soldered together and then individually taped with electric tape or covered with heat shrink and then the whole thing is covered with heat shrink tubing.

Thanks for the help! I don't have a background in Mech Engineering (?), but I think I understand those instructions. Would this kit of shrink tubing do the trick?

AmazonLink

limit/home switches if you want them (you should)

an e-stop - you probably have this

fan for the electronics case

power switch/plug for the power supply - you probably have this

connectors for wires (eg to get e-stop and limit switch wires into the case and connected. I use xlr plugs like These and these.

I also use these to help with wiring the limit/home switches in the case, but you may not need them, depending on what you use.

I bought 275 paracord and cut it to 4 equal lengths, and then took out the inner strands. Then I used 26 AWG wire, threaded it through the paracord sleeving which took a little bit of time. Then soldered the 4 ends to a 1/4 in jack. At this point I braided the 4 strands together, chose how long before my y split, then just twisted the two sets of wire and soldered the 650 terminals on. I also made sure to have heat shrink, so I bought the most popular amazon set.

Buy a couple of Wago connectors instead of wire nuts. They are much easier to work with and they don’t mess up the tip of your wires in case you have to modify anything inside there in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XH47DC2/ref=pd_aw_sbs_328_3/134-9665181-4117155?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XH47DC2&pd_rd_r=8b3b9b4d-824e-11e9-b4c5-ef907af3647f&pd_rd_w=jREPn&pd_rd_wg=tI4UX&pf_rd_p=aae79475-6dc9-4a12-80e8-27b63108fa72&pf_rd_r=ZE23ZBS22K5W4JR9HFWN&psc=1&refRID=ZE23ZBS22K5W4JR9HFWN
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XGYXVXR/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?keywords=wago+413+10+pk&qid=1559161061&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr2

I prefer the 414 ones but couldn’t find them right now. They’re optimal in my view.

Honestly, that's sort of my biggest hangup. I don't even own a soldering iron, and if I get one, I'll need to practice on junk electronics before I try to do something I can use. I do have a bunch of these though.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=lp_16347583011_1_1?srs=16347583011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499343102&sr=8-1

Oh those wire into the daytime running lights and the turn signal. I used these to make splicing easy. On mine the green wire is the turn signal and the red wire is the DRL, black is ground.

Just find some splice terminals like these: https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2L6Z6JKOO7AAV&keywords=wire+tap+connectors&qid=1558381066&s=gateway&sprefix=wire+tap%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-8

Use them to connect a Power Magic Pro onto battery/switched/ground wires.

Since it's a 40 amp power supply and you have room with it being a passthrough, I'd go with these. They are the 10 amp version rather than the 9 amp that I use in boxes. Four of them in parallel will give you protection at 40 amps. I also like to put one of these in the vapestations that I build.

I don't use them for the same reasons you've stated. I prefer using the regular wire nuts, I've seen these and they look similar but more secure and maybe smaller than a large wire nut.

They are pc fans. I guess I am trying to find out if it is possible to use 2 of the 12v 1Amp drivers to run 3 fans at 12v and 666mA, instead of 1 driver that is currently running them at 12v 333mA to each fan. -- and keep from hitting them with 24v.

I am using wago connectors for my wiring. So if I just plugged in an additional driver, would this double the overall output to 24v 2Amps, or does it stay at 12v and just double the Amperage since each driver is only putting out 12v. ??

So like a “vampire tooth”-connector?

Ginsco 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XIlTCbG08V4HF

I combined this power supply with this switch combo bolted down inside an ammo can as my charging setup and charger case. If you have a drill and a Dremel, you can easily do the same. That supply gives you 30 amps of 12 volts with three separate outputs. So you could run 3 of those Accucel chargers at max power, in theory.

Nice van!

Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.

Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY

This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)

Other items I used...

• Continuous Duty Solenoid
  
• Heavy Gauge Wire 2 AWG
  
• Ring Terminals for Heavy Gauge Wire
  
• ANL Fuse Holder
  
• ANL Fuses 100 Amp
  
• Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Terminals and Connectors for Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Heat Shrink Assortment
  
• Circuit breaker (alternative to ANL fuses, works as master disconnect too)
  
• Fuse Block (for all devices connected to house battery)

Here is a chart to help you identify the different connectors.
https://www.readymaderc.com/store/images/sma-chart.jpg

The attitude v3s have a sma female connector. you would screw an antenna with an sma male connector to it.

It looks like the amazon listing has it mislabeled or the wrong picture.

This should be exactly what you want: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Z95LVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_JmSBzb9CSDMKF

Here is a parts list for those interested

Nema 5-15r To C14

Voltmeter Analog Panel Meter

Shrink Tubing

32GB MicroSD

Raspberry Pi 3 + Power Supply

MCP4725 Breakout Board

TCA9548 I2C Multiplexer

RJ45 Extender

22AWG Wire

Plastic 2U Box

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6

They sell them at every auto parts store in the country. A few different variants on wiring. Look up how to wire a relay, not too hard. You will need to get an ignition-tied 12 volt signal from somewhere, yes you'll have to tap into the factory wiring but there are a million places to do this behind the dash/fairing/gauges/ignition.

I ordered an A8 and I get it this Sunday. Can you give me some more detail on the 4 things you suggest upgrading?

I looked at flashing the Marlin but do I need any extra cabling to perform the flash?

Do either of these fill the prereqs for the upgrades you mention? I ordered them as they came in a package deal with the printer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which power supply should I order? Did I forget to mention anything? I am trying to make sure I buy all of the stuff so I am ready to build on Sunday. I am gonna get a Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint as I only currently have a zero W and a Pi 4 available for use.

I can run with that I think. By using a relay like this (https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6) I should be able to tie the 12v that starts the pump to the contacts 30(+) and 85(-), wires to the sensor to 85(-) and 87(+), and connect the 30(+) to 86(+) to trigger.

My thought would be to move the hunter up about a foot. I have opened mine once since i installed it..

Replace (or close up the knock outs) the HV box with a new one. Run flex out the bottom up to the hunter power.
https://imgur.com/a/iwK4rPp

Between the LV box and the hunter add another box (9x9). Splice via terminal strip in this box

Some thing like https://www.amazon.com/Position-Terminal-Postions-Insulated-Barrier/dp/B010UDG6NG

Here is how NASA would splice that wire :). All you need is a decent soldering iron and a little bit of solder. Do it outside, especially if you are using lead based solder. A little heat shrink tubing and you can have that cord back in working order, even if it's a tiny bit shorter :).

There should be two wires inside that cord though: one for positive, and one for negative- make sure not to let these wires touch each other!

And you easily fix it with a piece of shrink tubing

Is the audio jack of your PC loose? Can if you keep the plug steady, while bending only the cable, do you notice the explained issue? If so it's a broken cable. The cheapest fix would be to get another plug (better cable+plug), cut the old cable and attach the other end to it. If you don't want to do any soldering, something like this would be the easiest way to connect the wires.

Sure thing:

Charger Port
https://powerwerx.com/panel-mount-dual-usb-device-charger?gclid=CjwKEAiAvZTCBRDvnoOaoa2j3xISJABxPjN9lAYkK9VHJy09GpoVvsMyWgTRaMPgoooQ8iCKM6-xxBoC3IDw_wcB

Relay
https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6

Sure do.

Terminal Blocks

4 Conductor Wire

is your face worth more than $0.30 to you?

This picture shows a pigtail connection.

Basically, you will join all the black wires, and all the white wires together using a cap or better yet, a set of these. in those groups you will also add a new ~5" section of wire to connect the outlet.

I wouldn't suggest trying to get all 3 sets of the current wires to the outlet, because if you dont get it tight enough you have a point of failure. ARC = Fires

Check this out at Amazon.com
Wago 221-413 LEVER-NUTS 3... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGYXVXR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got red and black...

Check this out at Amazon.com
Remington Industries... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010T5Y6PU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Check this out at Amazon.com
Cable Matters 2-Pack 16 AWG Heavy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WA0W62S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Check this out at Amazon.com
ATPWONZ IP68 Waterproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NALYPFT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'll have to go check, but they're standard 12v automotive relays. They look similar to these, which are actually cheaper. So, never mind, get them from Amazon.

Forgive me if it sounds ignorant: is junction recommended for safety/neatness or is it a technical must, as opposed to twist-on wire nuts I thought of using? If it's a must, would it be something like these (terminal blocks):

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XH47DC2
https://www.galco.com/buy/Bussmann/TB100-04

I'll mount the sticks on the outside of the rim, bringing the wires along the spokes to the center of the wheel.

This is a Grasshopper GHB2 battery. Had a tear at the negative end and at the positive end. I could not find 12650 battery wraps as previously guided, nor can I find 13mm inner diameter when not flat PVC material/battery wraps.

I tried a few 18650 wraps to no avail, then tried some 13mm heat shrink tubing I have for computer wires.

This is a link for the heat shrink wraps I used. I cannot find what material they are made out of and I know that 18650 wraps are usually (or always) PVC wraps.
https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Shrink-Sleeve-Assorted/dp/B008WWC6FU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Does anyone know if this material is good to use as a battery wrap?

I agree with the guy saying to repair the existing one. Just cut out the chewed portion of wire, strip the insulation back about an inch, slide on some heat shrink, make a western union splice (can be done with no solder), slide heat shrink back onto the bare metal and heat.

If you choose to buy a replacement, make sure you measure the diameter of your existing plug and match it to the one you buy, there are several different size barrels.

I use both this and heatshrink when I want a water tight seal.


Also pro tip for ya, you will need a 3:1 heatshrink if you have to go over a head phone jack.


https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-270Pcs-Shrink-Adhesive-Tubing/dp/B073R69KNB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3%3A1+Heat+Shrink&qid=1555176527&s=industrial&sr=1-3

No, you still wouldn't ever want to do it that way. Just use a standby UPS plugged into the same circuit as the primary supply. Least sketchy way to do it would be to score the power cable along the length for a couple inches and around the circumference all the way through and peel off the jacket to expose the three inner conductors and slap on a t tap on each one. Then just wire up an adapter going from a standard NEMA 5 plug to the spade terminals from the t taps.

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y

All you would do to switch it over is plug the cable into the UPS first, then plug the spade connectors into the t taps, unplug the original power cable from the wall and immediately plug it into the UPS, then unplug the spade connectors and remove the adapter cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66

How about Wagos?

http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Shrink-Sleeve-Tubing-Assorted/dp/B008WWC6FU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370903152&sr=8-2&keywords=shrink+wrap

It won't work, all 16 wires are shorted together.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XH47DC2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1517709445&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=WAGO+5+PORT+LEVER+NUTS

Buy some dual wall shrink wrap. https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-270Pcs-Shrink-Adhesive-Tubing/dp/B073R69KNB

Heat-shrink tubing.

https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7?th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Waterproof-Electrical-Terminals-Automotive/dp/B075TYSD26/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542647519&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=splices&dpPl=1&dpID=512rF%2BLN5JL&ref=plSrch

I second Wago connectors, These are what i would use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XH47DC2/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6375e697-f226-4dbd-a63a-5ec697811ee1&pd_rd_wg=hr3Yf&pf_rd_r=ZYXJFJQHX01M7APC8JBR&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B06XH47DC2&pd_rd_w=TPn4N&pf_rd_i=wago+connector&pd_rd_r=6ee3ce01-8e70-4bdb-9718-965ceb4fcdc1&ie=UTF8&qid=1541084967&sr=3

Power Switch - in case anyone else wants one.

here you go, the modern gold standard. Solder Seal heat shrink tubing.

Just a chopped up power strip wired to switch with a fuse on the inside. Then the Pi, monitor, and speakers plug into the strip.

Here's the switch I used: http://www.amazon.com/URBEST%C2%AEInlet-Module-Switch-Socket-IEC320/dp/B00ME5YAPK/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1J71V15ZGET9SM4S253H

Links to components used:
Headlight
Wiring Harness
36v-12v Converter
Tail Lights
heat shrink
Mounting Brackets

Maybe replace that whole part
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ME5YAPK/ref=sr_pogo_speakers_display_on_website_1?sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

I'm building some today with...

these banana plugs

this wire

this heatshrink

and this tech flex

As requested:


Bartop kit - $139.99 link


Buttons - $66 link


Raspberry Pi 3 - $35 link


Raspberry Pi Case - $7.95 link


Power Recpetical - $5.99 link


USB Hub - $11.99 - linl


Zip Ties for cable management - $5.98 - link


External USB Ports - $11.90 link


Velcro Pads for mounting speakers and Raspberry Pi case - $2.98 link


64 gb SD Card - $24.88 link


HDMI to VGA adapter - $7.99 link


20 ft of 3/4 inch t-molding - $6.99 link


Total cost so far including shipping - $361.13

Those earbuds have no stress relief in the connection. It is not your fault they are breaking. You just need to heat shrink for some stress relief.


Heat Shrink Tubing, Eventronic Electrical Wire Cable Wrap Assortment Electric Insulation Heat Shrink Tube Kit with Box(5 colors/12 Sizes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PCQ2LW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U6uRDb148T5HS


Method https://youtu.be/oHbgAiKBpf8

Do this to the points you feel are being tugged at. But do this for new earbuds, the old ones need to be fixed.

Seconded on the heat shrink. Something like this

Also- don't use a lighter, use actual heat from an extra hot hair dryer, or a heat gun. A lighter will give you a hard time and just burn the tubing- source: I've burned tubing with a lighter.

I'm guessing that the wiring diagrams you're finding are for a double pole, double throw (dpdt) switch (or similar). It appears what you have is actually a lighted switch that's single pole, single throw...I wouldn't use it in this application.

You can get a new one on amazon for <$10 or you can get another pop-in plug at your local hardware store. Since you're dealing with mains, you should leave nothing to chance, though. I suggest going out and buying a new switch which has a wiring diagram on it. For safety's sake, get a dpdt.

I just spent the last week buying and printing upgrades for my new A8... I'm also new to 3D printing. Its been printing great so far.

Purchased;
Mosfet: $10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP4YZ9N
GT2 Belts: $9 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0G4144
30A PSU: $20 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/
Power Socket w/ Switch & Fuse: $5 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK
Printed;
Extruder Buton: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1935151
T Corner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959
Anti Z Wobble: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435
Y Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2149867
X Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2354736
Z Endstop Fine Adjustment: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1776429

No I mean shrink wrap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PCQ2LW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TaY7BbYWB0K24

Nice shelves. Wiring is no more scary than a circular saw. Also, forgo the wirenuts and use lever locks instead. http://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395775496

Electrical tape or heat shrink.

I find it funny but understandable that the things that break and don't get fixed are the things that can be fixed for <$5.00 if people only knew what to buy or what to use. It's easy to know you need a new chair, but it's harder to know it's wobbling because of a small loose screw. So the little things fall into the category of not broken enough to need a new dishwasher but inconveniently broken. There's nothing Sugru can do that you can't find a better solution for in the adhesive aisle of a hardware store.

If you don't have enough slack after cutting off the original connectors, just crimp butt splice some wire of the same gauge onto the loose wires you cut, then cover with glue-filled heat shrink. If you can't find uninsulated crimp splice connectors at the local store, just heat up the insulated ones with a heat gun until the plastic softens then pull the metal inside out of the plastic sleeve.

Make sure whatever Weather Pack connector you use, it's sized to accept the proper gauge wire. Trying to force larger wires into smaller gaskets and pins will ruin your project.

If I'm understanding your issue correctly, someone in the past cut out the plastic connector that would fit into the stock unit, leaving you with just wires. If that is the case, you will need a meter to help you figure out the wires. in a pinch, a 9 volt battery can be used to figure out which speaker is which (really not good for the speaker, but it does work).
Strip the ends of all wires and twist them together. Electrical tape works in a pinch, as do wire nuts, but really I'd opt for heat shrink tubing cut to size before you twist the wires together. A hair dryer should work to shrink the tubing since you probably don't have a heat gun lying around the house.