I think I know the song!! Haha. "Let's Give Em Something to Talk About" how about looooooooOOOOooooove! I don't know who sings it though. Some country lady?

I didn't work out again last night. I had an inner battle, and a chocolate keto mug cake won (IT WAS SO GOOD) and exercising did not. I feel shitty from my period, but I know that's not a good excuse. But it is what it is! I plan to do it tonight instead.

This weekend should be great. We're going to a friend's house for grilling out tomorrow afternoon, and Sunday is wide open and free. Today is the first day I didn't wear a coat to work in the morning, so spring really feels like it's here! I can't wait to do all the spring and summer outdoor activities, like hiking and going to the Ren Faire. I'm ready for it (BOOM BOOM BOOM).

I need B to get out of the house so I can surprise him by painting the kitchen and bathroom cabinets! I found some great backsplash tiles and a really highly rated all-inclusive painting kit on Amazon specifically for cabinets, and I am pumped. All the reviews say you can get the entire thing done in a weekend, which is perfect because that's how long B will always be gone. We've been wanting to paint them the entire year we've lived here, but it's seemed like such a hassle. Luckily, this seems like it takes most of the hassle out. I'm pumped. B has CP and arthritis and a few other medical conditions that makes it harder for him to do stuff like that. It's been in my cart on Amazon for months and now finally B's going to be out of the house so I can do it!! Wheeee! I think he'll be really excited about it.

Okay I'm out. Love you guys!! Hope you have an awesome weekend!!! <3

Finding out the Color Profile is always a good idea - there are differences between US SWOP Coated and GRACol, for example (the two I most often use), and submitting what looks good in one, when they print in the other, will result in Color Profile Conversions that may or may not preserve the integrity of your colors.

But whether or not they're printing Spot or CMYK should be something you know before you even start designing. Many places don't print Spot colors at all, so you sending them Pantone means nothing to them, they're just RIP'ing it out to 4 color seperations, and whatever happens, happens.

On the other hand, if your client always uses Pantone 123C because that's the same logo color that's always been the case, that's different - and you need to make sure the printer is actually mixing Pantones. OR, if you're using an imprinter (you mentioned printing a design on a piece of kitchenware), it's MUCH more likely they're using Pantone, as they can then mix together some Pantone pigments and end up with a specific Pantone color for screenprinting your pan or breadbox or apron or whatever. You should still purchase the Pantone book - but find out which colors they use, as there are Pantone Home & Interior inks that are different from the paper inks (including being created w/o lead, for safety.)

If they're printing one color (Spot color), then color profiles don't matter.

-----

Edited to add a quick crash course in CMYK vs. Spot Color.

CMYK (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black (formerly referred to as Key color, hence the K)) are the inks used to print just about everything that appears in full color: Magazines, newspapers, textbooks, etc. Everything that comes off a personal inkjet or color laser printer also uses CMYK (some use expanded colors, for example my photo printer has 8 inks, CMYK + lighter Cyan and Magentas, and 2 grays, but the principle is the same.).

Spot Color printing (you may see this as 1-color, 2-color, or 3-color printing) means printing with 1,2,3 colors that YOU specify. To make sure everyone is talking about the same color, Pantone is one of the (and probably the most popular) industry standard color systems (there are others). With Pantone, you specify a color (from the swatch book, right???), and when you submit your print order, the print shop literally mixes together the various Pantone inks to make that color.

The nice thing about Pantone is that their inks aren't derived from Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, so you can get much richer colors, and colors that aren't part of the normal CMYK gamut (which is relatively small, compared to RGB-what your monitor/cellphone/TVs use, and MUCH smaller than what we can actually see). Pantone colors also include things like metallics and neons with characteristics (reflectivity, florescence) that even the best RGB display can't reproduce.

Another nice thing about Pantone inks is that assuming the recipe is followed correctly (and that you're printing on paper or other material that has the same surface characteristics and color), one printer's Spot color job should exactly match another's. You can't say the same about CMYK (4-color process) jobs, because different presses are calibrated differently, different color profiles have to be considered, etc.

Additionally, when printing Spot color, if printed at 100% coverage, the edges will be nice and clean, and there's no dot pattern. Virtually any color you specify in CMYK (if not pure CMY or K), when printed, will have dots and potentially rough edges, not to mention registration/alignment concerns. Spot color jobs don't have to worry about that.

However, there are also 5-color, 6-color, or more-color jobs - which might incorporate CMYK PLUS 1, 2, 3, or more Pantone colors. Food packaging very often uses this method, as it makes specifying a certain "brand" color easier, and allows the box to stand out on the shelf by using a more vivid ink than can be achieved through CMYK. Go take apart a cereal box and you'll see the registration and color bars - this one has CMYK, as well as Frosted Flakes Blue and Tony the Tiger Orange, making it a 6-color job.

Anyway, it's Saturday night and I've been drinkin' for a while, so I should stop - but feel free to ask any questions/clarifications on the above, and I'll follow up! ;-)

Couldnt resist the sns sale on this pair for about $130. and i knew id be blacking out that boost before i bought. (sorry dont see it available any longer, but its on goat and stockx for 120-160ish depending on size.) i wanted to try the full angelus method since heskicks said it lasted on youtube, and it took me 3 days on and off this weekend.

full photo album progress here with comparison pix in different steps of the method and against "OEM" black adidas boost https://imgur.com/a/5RE2d

STEPS

Day 1 – deglaze and dye. Deglazed before dinner, painted dye layer 1, wait 10 mins then dye layer 2. Let dry overnight.

Day 2 – Dye reducer. Feelgoodkicks on youtube said this was important to eliminate cracking and that purpleish sharpie-like tint, so I tried it. Make sure to very lightly roll a Q-tip over your dye work, otherwise else you can completely remove all your work. Later that day I painted with the flat black paint. Waited 10 mins then did a 2nd layer.

Day 3 – Acrylic Paint. Wait 10 mins and do a 2nd layer. Still looked too glossy to me, so I masked the upper and sprayed with krylon later that day. And a 2nd layer a few mins after as the instructions state to get my finished product. Also added alternate laces and gunmetal grey aglets. Didnt end up using the mink oil since Im worried the boost will gloss up, but I still might try some later.


OVERALL TIPS

With any painting, take your time and do LIGHT layers to prevent chipping/cracking as much as possible.

I didnt mask the upper when painting since i went slowly, but paint brushes are actually easier to use very close to the primeknit than the sharpies were. I normally painted that upper edge first, then used a larger brush to paint the main part of the boost.

Krylon spray was a must. Album has a comparison photo with just angelus finish and its super glossy compared to the krylon finish. Using krylon finish alone, however, the paint rubbed off the boost whenever i touched it. so gotta do both

PREVIOUS POST (sharpie method)

https://www.reddit.com/r/Sneakers/comments/7thl9p/iniki_boost_blackout_oil_based_sharpie_matte/

Since the previous sharpie method rubbed off a bit on my fingers, I retouched with the anglus acrylic finish and then krylon again to get it more matte. Seemed to do the job.

I think for the sharpie method id have to add deglazer and angelus finish. so a total of 4 purchases would be good (deglazer, sharpie, angelus acrylic finish, krylon matte finish)



PRODUCT LINKS

Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer 4 Oz - $6.60
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU322DQ

Angelus Brand Leather Dye W/applicator - 3 Oz ''Jet Black'' - $6.75
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016QV7XIS

Angelus Acrylic 4 Ounce Paint (Flat Black) - $8.49
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MPXF6XG

Angelus Brand Acrylic Leather Paint Matte Finisher No. 620 - 4oz - $7.59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5W4LX4

Krylon Matte Finish - $3.47
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ENZ8CS

Heartybay Nylon Paint Brush Set - $5.98
https://www.amazon.com/Heartybay-10Pieces-Round-Pointed-Nylon/dp/B00V4EG6D6

Thank you so much! I originally bought this kit from Amazon. But I wouldn't necessarily recommend it in terms of how much paint you get with it for the price.

If your fireplace is small it's definitely a project you can get done in a couple days. But because our fireplace is pretty large, had never really been cleaned before, and this was a project mostly done during the weekends it took me about 4 weekends to do.

So for the process, I had to scrub all of the brick and grout a few times over and vacuum in between as a lot of debris came off. Once it's all clean and dry you can start painting! It gives a ratio of how much paint : water you should mix for whatever outcome you want. I wanted most of our paint thicker than just the normal 'white washed' look as a few of our bricks were REALLY red/dark. I ended up having to get two extra buckets of paint. Our bricks had also never been treated before so they soaked up a lot of the paint, which required multiple coats to get it to not look pinkish.

It says it takes at least 14 days for the paint to completely dry if you plan on using your fireplace in the near future.




So I would definitely recommend just finding a good fireplace specific paint rather than buying a kit if you already have all of the other tools!

I hope that helps!




Here a picture of our fireplace before we started the painting process!

Here’s my out-of-the box suggestion: If you can find the style of shoe you like in a light or neutral color, then you can paint the shoe with Angelus brand leather paint in metallic silver. I have done this several times when I have loved a shoe but couldn’t find the right color, with great results. Tape the soles and parts you don’t want painted with frog brand painters tape. Painting is in three steps: apply finisher and deglazer and let dry, apply paint and let dry, then apply finisher and let dry. Hopefully you can find the right color shoes, but I wanted to put this option out there just in case. If you decide to do this, message me and I will be happy to send detailed instructions.

https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Leather-Preparer-Deglazer-Oz/dp/B00EU322DQ?crid=28ONTX97BK2L&keywords=angelus+leather+preparer+and+deglazer&qid=1540669671&sprefix=Angelus+%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-1&ref=sr_1_1

https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Acrylic-Leather-Paint-1oz-Silver/dp/B00HRJPVS8?crid=275059PK4ATA&keywords=angelus+metallic+silver&qid=1540669816&sprefix=angelus+metallic+%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-1&ref=sr_1_1


https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Brand-Acrylic-Leather-Finisher/dp/B00B5W4LX4?crid=28ONTX97BK2L&keywords=angelus+leather+preparer+and+deglazer&qid=1540669751&sprefix=Angelus+%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-3&ref=sr_1_3

Brushes
https://www.amazon.com/Angelus-Paint-Angular-Artist-Acrylic/dp/B072LRHFTM?keywords=angelus+brushes&qid=1540669936&sr=8-2&ref=sr_1_2

About a month ago, I bought a rustoleum kit for truck bed liner DIY style for my B4000. This is the product but I got it for just under 100 bucks at Wal-Mart where I live.

This stuff isn't paint, it's a two part epoxy mixture with a really long cure time. The fumes are pretty horrible, and the smell is bound to linger for quite a while if you use it on the interior. Regardless, it came out very nicely (i'll post pictures later) and I think it was well worth the 100 bucks or so it cost.

The prep work was rather intensive. You have to get every inch of every surface you plan to line with it really clean. Then, you have to go over all surfaces again with a sanding block to rough up the surface. That ensures the liner will form a strong bond. Then, you have to go over every surface again with laquer thinner to get the extremely fine loose particles out. Then you can start applying it.

It goes on in two to three coats with 30 minutes in between. The paintbrush is great, but have some extras on hand if the included one starts to get full of the epoxy and isn't working very well. Keep in mind that using a paint brush for this job renders it ruined once it's done.

If you really take your time and do the prep work well, it'll come out amazingly.

I actually just epoxy painted my bathroom floor. It turned out great and was incredibly cheap. Love the stuff

Edit: I used this

KILZ L377711 1-Part Epoxy Acrylic Interior/Exterior Concrete & Garage Floor Paint, Satin, Slate Gray, 1 gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9IQH10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gHbUAbPGHV6NM


Disclaimer: I've only had it for a couple months. So far I love it and it hasn't shown any sign of wear and tear. I know it's not the most amazing and strong 2 part epoxy. But It's inexpensive And made for a garage floor. I'm confident in it.

Everybody is concerned with the cast iron, but you also have substantial carpentry too. If the cast iron accepts 3/4 thick boards, you will find that the bench is quite springy with 3/4 slats. I did the exact same project as you. I used 1 1/2" thick slats and reduced the ends to 3/4 to fit into the openings in the cast iron. I left a generous radius on the 3/4" part.

Rust converter coatings look nice for a short period of time. Hammerite paints protect from rust the bast that I am aware of.

https://www.amazon.com/Masterchem-43180-Hammerite-Hammered-Finish/dp/B000Z4EELW/ref=sr_1_3/132-5549204-8043630?ie=UTF8&qid=1511059117&sr=8-3&keywords=hammertone+paint

Yes, the others are right to tell you that you're going about this the wrong way. I'm here with a suggestion on how to do it the right way.

What I suggest is getting a Pantone Swatch Book. They can quickly become essential to any designer's toolbox.

To use the book, you go through the swatches until you find one close to the color you're looking to replicate. Then compare all of the similar swatches in the book to your color until you find one that looks just right. Note the number on this swatch.

Now open the corresponding Swatch Book in your design program (Photoshop & Illustrator have them built in) and find your Pantone number. Boom. Done. The color in your design will now match your desired color. You may want to convert it to CMYK depending on your printing method but that's easy enough.

You can even use the color picker in the program to find the RGB or HEX values of that swatch...so you can use it in video or web projects as well.

Fair warning: the books can be a bit pricey for what amounts to a bunch of printed colors—but just know they are printed with the highest detail possible for the most accurate results and that kind of printing precision costs money.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1590653289/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-Aefub17F6J32

However, you can likely find a used one on eBay for much less. Beware though. Books that were not cared for properly (left out in light or heat, cut up, etc.) may have faded/damaged swatches and not function properly. Pay attention to the description, photos, and seller's history and you'll be fine.

http://ebay.com/sch/Color-Guides-Pantone-/46730/i.html?isRefine=true

Hope this helps. Good luck!

My guess: a commercial "white wash" stain, mostly wiped off, sanded back, followed by a waterborne finish.

There isn't enough ambering to suggest that there's anything oil-based on there. This is a commercial-looking piece, so it probably isn't Milk Paint--a more traditional product that you'd see in a small or hobby shop. But Milk paint is still a possibly valid way to get this effect.

If I were to sit down and figure this out, I'd get a bunch of scraps of the target wood species, then go buy:

• Minwax "White Wash Pickling"
  
• GF "White Wash" Stain
  
• GF White Milk Paint*
  
• GF High Performance
  
  Then experiment with each of the three "white" products--applying them like stain, wiping most of it off, sanding back a little, then using the HP as a topcoat. See what you like best and what effects you can achieve. You could also try powdered milk paint that you mix yourself--the benefit there is that you can control the consistency better.
  
  (*) GF Milk Paint is not Milk Paint! It's a waterborne finish that replicates the style and feel of milk paint while being an absolute pleasure to work with...but it's not the real thing.

I would suggest a spray paint designed for use on fabric and vinyl, a few companies make them, Rust-Oleum| offers a silver.

I have used it to turn white boots red, and I didn't have any flakes or chips from everyday wear (I don't have any photos or I would share). So I suggest a spray over any paint. If you have have a question in the future about any surfaces you have to paint, first check and see if there is a specific paint that suits your application. If it is part of your costume but not a prop, just research the material and see what type of paints/dyes work best. Good luck, I bet you will look stunning.

My husband and I stained the cabinets in our kitchen. We used General Finishes Stain. We went darker, but here is a link for their milk paint. There are tons of pictures in the reviews that could give you ideas. You could use it in the kitchen and in the bathroom. I think a white or light gray would look great. It's very very easy to use, I am not crafty at all and it worked great. I looked up their tutorial on YouTube and went to town.

General Finishes QSW Milk Paint, 1 quart, Snow White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YI7OY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_jV3IAb9RF1TK3

Thanks! I used Modern Masters Bronze Reactive Paint: https://www.amazon.com/Modern-Masters-ME396-06-Reactive-Metallic/dp/B000I1QE4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467854880&sr=8-1&keywords=modern+masters+bronze

Then I used the green patina activator from them: https://www.amazon.com/Modern-Masters-PA901-04-Solution-4-Ounce/dp/B000I1TH9Q/ref=pd_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41FxhPyOHpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=RB53F7QN5E1VNQXPRVQB

This method is a little pricier than some of the others have been doing recently, but it's pretty much fool proof. Since I'm not terribly artistic, I figured it was better to spend extra money and go the easy route :)

I'm seeing the answer of it being mold and I don't know enough to rule that out, but I do want to bring up another possibility.

My first reaction to this was that it could be Valspar's color changing ceiling paint getting sort of "reactivated" by exposure to moisture. I've painted some bedroom ceilings with it recently. I went to clean a scuff off with a wet rag and thought the ceiling looked a little purple again after it got wet. I generally like the paint, but it may be an issue if used directly above a shower. I know you said it's pink, but it doesn't look too far off from the color of that paint.

I found this customer review about the paint "reactivating" when used above a shower. I also found a similar review on Amazon. Does it look like the previous owner recently painted some of the rooms in the house?

Edit: the more I look at this, the more confident I am that it's the paint.

Thanks so much!

Poured on two layers of this epoxy, sanded to 400 grit between each, let them both cure and they came out super glossy so I put down a really thin layer of minwax satin poly. The epoxy definitely brought out a lot of beautiful color and helped fill all the imperfections without covering them up.

I am going to try growing broccoli, cauliflower, and brussel sprouts. I have seedlings I started that are sitting in an intermediary DWC system to grow while I got these ready.

I chose coco coir based on feedback. The clay balls were going to be too expensive for a full bucket. Perlite is a good choice, but seemed messy. Coco Coir is compostable so I can dispose of it easily when done. I will be using these 5 gallon bucket strainers, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P83H9Q2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1, in the bucket to help keep stuff in the buckets and out of the reservoir. I will see how successful that is.

I have refinished a few tabletops using this method:

1. Paint the wood (use spray paint or whatever).
   
2. Print the logo on cardstock paper.
   
3. Cut it out.
   
4. Paste it to the wood using Mod Podge.
   
5. Then, seal it using something like this Pour On Finish. You could also use something like a clear acrylic sealer but this will not be as durable.
   
   Good Luck!

Same stuff, but thanks for the suggestion. I'm actually using it, and just erasing the ghosting w/ a Mr. Clean magic eraser every once in awhile.

Meanwhile I ordered this dry erase paint, which I'm going to apply in coats with the proper sanding and primer. Will report back here in a week or so--hopefully this works!

Easier then what he said is to use this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Q0I62IU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519869703&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=por15&dpPl=1&dpID=61Gu2KUTGBL&ref=plSrch

You don't have to do anything other then coat it to encapsulate and stop the rust. I've painted frames.etc.. with this stuff it's awesome. Also comes in many other colors like clear,gray,red etc....

Sure! Buy this stuff:

Environmental Technology 8-Ounce Kit Lite Pour-On, High Gloss Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CEMU3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zViGAb88SATC9

There's a couple solutions in the box that you mix together and then pour over your project. It dries to a thick coat of resin. Very cool stuff. Since you're planning on using it as a cutting board, I'd recommend sanding it down a little once dried and applying a food-safe sealant afterward.

Sorry i should have specified a bit more 24 hour cure time that 25 minutes is working time which is standard either way this is what you need

Environmental Technology 8-Ounce Kit Lite Pour-On, High Gloss Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CEMU3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5.YMybZACC512

I'd watch some youtube videos on finishing table tops with epoxy, they are very helpful

My suggestion is forget the wax. Strip the remaining wax out, and get a product called Envirotex. It's a simple two part epoxy, is food safe, and you can put pretty much any liquid in the horn after. When you do it, there are some procedures (which I can elaborate on if needed) that will ensure a good coating, and will even protect that edge from further chipping.

Now, that said, this post isn't really suitable for this sub. It's not really about heathenry. My suggestion to you is to either PM me if you need more help than this answer, or go ask on /r/SCA. They'll have your answer there for sure if you want other opinions. I'll leave this post up for a short time because I know your problem is a frustrating one to have, but I'm going to have to delete it soon unless you delete it first.

I appreciate the feedback so far!

I'm still doing some research. When I went to JoAnn's earlier I explained the situation and had someone recommend the following:

https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-16-Ounce-Pour-Finish/dp/B000LNS9CW

I thought that what's essentially a varnish of sorts was an odd idea, but bought the box as I had a 60% off coupon, and figured I could return it if I end up not using it.

Does anyone have any experience using a product like this? Would it do the job?

rit dye != vinyl dye. Coming from the Nerf hobby, vinyl dye is the best thing for you, just remember to apply it in thin coats. Rit dye will simply not take to ABS, I can tell you from personal experience.

Has anyone used a 5 gallon disposable paint strainer bag to strain out any sediment before pitching the yeast? I usually use a funnel with a mesh screen to pour into my 6.5 gallon glass carboy but I read on other forums that people do this and all of them seem to agree that they can't live without doing it. I ordered these on Amazon earlier today and was wondering if anyone here has any experience using this kind of method and what do you think about it?

I would put another thin layer of MDF on it? To cover the imperfections of the screw holes and filler, which is what I assume I am looking at here.

Then I would sand it smooth as you can get it, and paint with matte finish green or blue of your choosing after applying primer to seal it.

Something like this for primer:

https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Zinsser-Bulls-Odorless-Primer/dp/B012JI5Q9A?SubscriptionId=AKIAJ25BEV7RWHOE3GOA&tag=bobvhtd-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B012JI5Q9A

Maybe something like this for the green:

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-206540-Chalkboard-Brush-30-Ounce/dp/B0006BAEMM/ref=sr_1_20?keywords=green%2Bchalkboard%2Bpaint&qid=1563819579&s=hi&sr=1-20&th=1

This is my first time using a reactive paint but I would say it turned out nicely with this brand.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1QE4C/ref=asc_df_B000I1QE4C5452394/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B000I1QE4C&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198091577722&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14104163807776835001&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019127&hvtargid=pla-323291408532

Chalkboard Paint

Couldn't find white, but green is better than black or it could make it dark inside.

I made mugs and coated them in 3 coats of bar top epoxy and they're sealed and food safe. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CEMU3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1449546482&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=bar+top+epoxy&dpPl=1&dpID=51ZB66yipUL&ref=plSrch

I can't really tell, to be honest. I've only had mine for a few weeks and haven't spent much time under it, yet.

That said, if it's steel, Por-15 would be my first choice to cover it. I'd get the small can, unless you have a bunch of rust elsewhere or you want to do some preventative maintenance on other steel parts.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q0I62IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xUVGDbTQ24MXH

This was one of the first projects I took on after buying my house last month. It's a process for sure to do right...even so there's a few of my 19 cabinet doors that didn't come out perfect. I sanded, cleaned, applied an oil based primer, sanded, painted, sanded 1 more time and finally the last coat. Happy with how they came out but I probably wouldn't do it again. Sorry for the incomplete final picture, we're still 2-3 weeks away from totally completing our frugal kitchen reno.

I used the Nuvo Driftwood Cabinet Kit which I'd recommend.

I would first power wash the concrete. Then get epoxy mortar to fill in the cracks. You can then use epoxy paint on the concrete. Here is one type. Edit. This has a better price. https://www.amazon.com/KILZ-L377711-Interior-Exterior-Concrete/dp/B01M9IQH10/ref=pd_sbs_60_5/130-4275861-1136344?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M9IQH10&pd_rd_r=2823b7a4-70e2-11e9-88ae-891106fe0638&pd_rd_w=VuDcK&pd_rd_wg=1sdKw&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=DNFPAZETJYD6DCA8HSZM&psc=1&refRID=DNFPAZETJYD6DCA8HSZM

will review, thanks
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4ASE
i think my "vinyl" is not really vinyl,
just some sort of leather texture painted cushion.

What I have in my home office.

What I'd recommend if you're not in a permanent place.

I put down white pain about 5 layers to make it look go (go as glossy as possible) Then i used Clear Whiteboard paint that i got from Homedepot
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush-White/dp/B000PGBCOC.

Used 3 layers of that.

I did it in January and they lasted until the end of the year. USing the fine markers made clean up way easier. Each student had their own cloth and my class at the end of the day wiped them down. You might have to replace em every other year id think. I put down some decals aswell and covered them in the clear paint to (coordinate plane 15x15, multiplication table, numberline). Kids picked at the stickers and ruined another teachers desk who did it too but mine stayed great cause i laid down the rules early on that if they messed em up id mess them up.

Alternatively, if you can make a speech bubble out of another material more easily, you could then paint it with whiteboard paint. Just a thought.

The only thing I can think of is getting a lycra wetsuit (cheapest I've seen for a full body one was $40) and then giving it a few coats of vinyl and fabric spray paint.

The burgundy doesn't have a gloss finish and I think it's closer to Deadpool's color.

Thanks! The bases (Pic here: http://imgur.com/aFChvwH) are filled with Envirotex Lite, but any epoxy resin would have worked. The blue color came from a few added drops of acrylic paint.

I was considering covering the top in something like http://smile.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush-On-White/dp/B000PGBCOC/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409768795&sr=8-1&keywords=whiteboard+paint

it would always be on, but would serve a similar function.

Link to Amazon with reviews

That's so awesome. I invent new paints for a living and have made a few aerosols before. I think art like this needs to be supported more and people need to distinguish between this and someone putting up their dumb tag. One of the problems is that the 2 largest aerosol manufacturers don't make an effort to support true artists that use their products and lump everyone into that same "vandal" category.

p.s. Don't buy that idea paint dry erase fake advertising post on the front page. They are all hype and sell their product at a ridiculous price. I think they wanted something like $80/quart. here is a cheaper product: http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush-On-White/dp/B000PGBCOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420211762&sr=8-1&keywords=rustoleum+dry+erase

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush-White/dp/B000PGBCOC

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248919-Automotive-11-Ounce-Fabric/dp/B003CT4ASE

I use burned pieces of wood with all sorts of cracks and imperfections http://imgur.com/xkuVfVG and what I use and stand by is http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000LNS9CW that.
Get a few different sizes of brush and you'll be set.

They make dry erase paint!

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush-White/dp/B000PGBCOC

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241140-Erase-Brush--White/dp/B000PGBCOC/

I'm doing to door cards and rear bench in black. Using this vinyl paint, though I would not do the same for leather. I'd just look into a leather dye for that.

countertop epoxy resin

e.g.

http://smile.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-16-Ounce-Pour-On-Finish/dp/B000LNS9CW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404959896&sr=8-1&keywords=countertop+epoxy+resin

You should ask for a set of Pantone chips this Christmas.

Instead of that $130 kind, I used this $20 alternative which works fantastically. I made a table for D&D, and the entire tabletop is painted with this stuff. Used permanent marker to make a 1" grid via vertex dots, and the dots only sometimes come off when I use a magic eraser, which gets EVERYTHING else up.

Rust-Oleum 241140 Dry Erase Brush-On Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PGBCOC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_8PRPub0PB2RT0

I would suggest using some of that whiteboard paint or chalkboard paint for the top. Minimizes the number of pieces that can be lost by the drunks.

Reiterating what the other commenters have said, you'll want to stick the caps down somehow because when you pour the self leveling epoxy over them, they'll want to float and you'll end up with an uneven surface.

I used this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-16-Ounce-Pour-Finish/dp/B000LNS9CW

Source: Have made that mistake myself.