Been painting a few years and lurking here forever, here's my advice:

> Mixing Brush: I am told that you should not mix paint with your primary brushes. Where can I buy a cheap brush for mixing, and anything special I need?

If I'm already using a "larger" brush (1 or higher) I'll mix with my good brushes and just be mindful of how far up the ferrule I am or use the back of the brush. If I'm using a detail brush I'll use a super cheap synthetic 2 or 3. Look on amazon or at a local art chain (Michaels) for cheap student grade packs of round brushes. You'll end up using these for terrain, PVA glue, and all sorts of other things.

> More Brushes: My kit came with a 2 flat and 0 round. What other brushes will I need, and what in your opinion is a good brand to buy? Any set that covers all the basics? Although I am new to painting, I'd like something that will last me and be quality. They sell SoHo brushes in my local store, which look like they are great quality. Any users here?

This topic can get pretty involved. Brushes have a lifespan so if you're new to the hobby I wouldn't recommend dropping money on higher end Kolinsky brushes like W&N Series 7 or daVinci Maestro. For a new painter I recommend Winsor & Newton's University series and Army Painter's Wargamer brushes. The W&N University brushes are higher than average student quality acrylic brushes that can be abused. They're great for basecoating with thicker mixes. The Wargamer brushes are a cheap intro into real sable hair so you can get started at layering with thinned paints.

> Primers: This is a big ? for me --- Spray primers, basic black white and grey? Which ones, what brand, etc... Really unsure what is recommended here, as in a store there are so many, but hoping /r/minipainting can help as we are all painting the same stuff. Would love some specific product recommendations here.

For the most part, you have three options: spray cans, brush-on, and airbrush. I can't really recommend spray primers - they require ventilation, have trouble with humidity, and can only be sprayed at one consistency. Many of the hobby spray cans advertised for basing your minis aren't actual primers. Brush-on primers are the most economical but run the risk of losing detail on the mini if applied heavily. Airbrushing is my preferred method using either Mr. Hobby's Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner for highly detailed minis, or Vallejo Primer for tabletop quality minis. Vallejo Primer's are acrylic and polyurethane so they're more protective but can sometimes take away detail.

> Finish: I saw a few videos where they spray some 'protective' finish on a product, I believe there are matte finishes as well as gloss finishes? Can I get any 'matte/gloss finish' product, or are there certain ones for miniatures?

Same three options as priming. If your minis are going to be handled often, I recommend a glossy coat then a matte coat. Glossy varnishes are stronger than matte varnishes, so this combo will give you the most protection. You are more likely to lose some detail this way. If your minis are for display only you can skip the varnish and just be careful. Dried acrylics are basically thin plastic so they have some durability on their own. Brand-wise I airbrush using Liquitex Professional gloss and matte varnishes, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner and a drop or two of Vallejo flow-improver. Vallejo varnishes are also good but Liquitex offers the best bang for your buck.

> Mini Holders: I found this product which looks amazing, but is not available until late 2017 since the Kickstarter has ended. Are there any similar products that someone could recommend, or should I just go with something very simple? Would love to hear some ideas.

I use an old Citadel paint pot and white poster tack to stick to the bottom of the base. If you want to paint individual parts, heat the tip of a needle/pin with a lighter, press it gently into the glue joint of the mini (the hole will be hidden later), then press the other side of the needle into a wine cork or similar.

> Brush Care: I got a "masters" paste from a store that I was told to rinse and swirl my brushes in after painting. Any other tips or is this okay?

Master's is the best option, just make sure you follow the directions and use warm water for best results. You can also get a small bottle of W&N Brusher Cleaner and Restorer to have on reserve if you accidentally let paint dry on one of your better brushes. If it's a cheap or synthetic brush you can clean it with original Windex (WITHOUT Ammonia-D) or Vallejo airbrush cleaner, followed by a wash with Master's.

> Carving/Scraping tools: I know some minis need to be cut from a sheet and some have mold lines that need to be cleaned. How is this done and what tools are needed?

Get a decent pair of sprue cutters - I recommend these. You should be able to find these for $10 at a local hobby store. For plastic minis you should be fine with just an X-acto or similar knife for getting rid of mold lines - just run the blade mostly perpendicular to the line and "shave" it gently.

> Storage Box: For all the little things that come along with painting, what do you use/recommend to store everything in?

A coffee mug works fine as a brush holder. You can try a hardware store for all sorts of containers if you're traveling with paints. Otherwise desk space and some imagination (spice racks) or money (official paint stand) are all you need.

> Paint Agitators: I was told to get some steel balls and put them in every paint bottle I have. It's okay to leave them in there. Would these work, or any concerns?

Please do not use steel ball bearings. You can attempt to buy "marine grade" ball bearings but unless it's reputable and expensive they are still likely going to rust and ruin your paint. I use hematite beads for necklaces for my paints. 4mm for dropper bottles and 6mm for pots. You can get them cheaper at Michaels w/ a coupon and they're inert so they won't stain your paints.

> Flow Improver: Thoughts? I was told to mix this into my washes. How much should I add, one drop? Is this product okay, or is this only for airbrushing?

Flow improver is generally used for airbrushing to extend the drying time and prevent clogs. Fluid retarder in the form of actual art supply from W&N or Liquitex, Vallejo's Glaze Medium, or Games Workshop's Lahmian Medium are what you're looking for. These can all be used to turn a normal paint into a wash (heavy dilution), or can be used to extend drying time for wet blending (light dilution). I can't give you exact ratios as each paint company, each color, and the age of your paints will dictate that. Trial and error is the only method here.


One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is a wet palette. It will save you a lot of headache when learning to wet blend and will let you save mixed paints for many days. You can get one for cheap and use either the papers that come with it or kitchen parchment paper. Both will yield different results so play around with both. Be sure to use distilled water or you're likely to get some funk from mold after a couple days.

Here is the link to the original light box posted here: click here

Here is the link to biscuitandbook's fantastic pointers that really helped me figure out how to plan this! click here

Here is the run down of things I used:

• 9x12 Watercolor paper cut down to size of shadowbox frame
  
• 8x10 white shadowbox frame from Joanns (50% on sale so I got it for only $10!)
  
• Mechanical Pencil
  
• Exacto Knife (I specifically used this one by Fiskars. I know some people like the small swivel one, but I found this one so much easier to control and very comfortable. I don't care for the small rotating kind because I personally feel they are not easy to control. The trick with a standard exacto knife is to rotate your paper instead!)
  
• Double sided mounting tape (the thick kind, like this Scotch tape)
  
  Procedure
  
  The first thing I did was come up with an idea of what I wanted to draw. I knew I wanted to draw a forest scene and incorporate a wolf and owl. I used Hari & Deepti's works as inspiration and to help me come up with an idea. You can see their work here. I specifically pulled from this piece to find out an idea of how to draw the forest scence.
  
  Next, I sketched out my idea on a piece of watercolor paper. Watercolor paper is best for this because it is very easy to cut, but also allows light through and can support itself. Cardstock was too thick and I found after a few tests that it did not shine through as easily. When I sketched, I tried to create the whole piece and look without worrying about layers, just focusing on the foreground, middle, and background that I wanted. I adjusted as I went. Pro tip: I suck at drawing realistically, so for the wolf and owl I found stock images of them and put the paper on the computer screen and traced. Much easier and so much less stressful!
  
  To begin the layers, I looked at my sketch and started from the top and worked my way back. I eyeballed my sketch as I drew the first layer. To begin, it is much easier if you cut out the general shape first and then work on the small details in each layer. For example, the top layer's tree branches were not cut in the first go. I cut out the ground and trunks, but left the tree branches as a huge piece at the top. It wasn't until I went back and focused on the details that I started to cut branch by branch. If you do trees in yours, I also recommend starting at the top and working down when you cut leaves/branches. The first layer I did from the bottom up and I accidentally snipped off areas for nice branches...
  
  After cutting all of the layers out, I then worked from the back up, that way I could attach the mounting tape as I went. This allows you to have a good visual of what is popping out and what needs more support. For the mounting tape, it is best to keep to the outside edges so you can hide the shadows. Mine generally is only on the edges, except for one piece behind the wolf to make him stand out. A little goes a long way! Especially when you are using the thick kind of tape! (Seriously buy the thick kind, it makes life soooo easy!)
  
  As you build up your layers, you will find it magically starts to come together. Each layer had me so excited...! To keep track of how your picture is coming along, it is really easy to just hold it up in the air in front of a light. I kept holding mine infront of my lamp. The light comes through and shows you where you might need to double up on some of the paper so it is dark where you want it to be.
  
  After that, pop it in the frame and add on some lights to the back! I have yet to add lights to mine as they have not arrived yet, so definitely check out the two original posts I linked to above to help you out! Mine is just tested with christmas lights behind it temporarily.
  
  Seriously, try this out! It looks so complicated but it is sooo fun and I can't stop looking at it! You will find that the layers really do all the work and make a beautiful piece! If you have any questions, I will be happy to help you out as best as I can. :)
  

Here is my list I will put links when I can.

Citadel Shades- also known as washes. I would suggest Nuln Oil as your black wash and Reikland Fleshshade as a brown wash. Example you would black wash the probe droids but I would suggest the brown wash for the wookie.
I find these washes great for new painters because you don’t have to do anything to them. Use them right out of the pot.
http://www.games-workshop.com/en-AU/Citadel-Shade


Also the Citadel base paints that have the metal look to them like lead belcher are excellent for doing highlights on metal surfaces like the blasters or the droids.

For all my normal colors I only use the 1$ acrylic paint from normal craft stores. They work just as well as long as you water them down. You pay more for the special miniature paints and Side by side I did not see the difference in my Minis.

For primer I use white for most things even stuff that will be dark. It is much easier to make something darker. It is harder to lighten up it back up. The washes especially the black wash will darken up the mini as well so it is important for the colors to be brighter than you think they will needed to be.
Some talked about having to do more than one coat and for about half my colors I normally do two coats but the white gives me the freedom to just do one coat if I want it to look lighter. Example I have to paint a mini one time that was wearing jeans. I only applied one coat of blue paint then used the black wash over it. This gave the jeans this faded look and was done much easier than having to do the lighter highlights by hand.

For brushes a size 0 1 and 2 would be a good start. For washing I use a side 3-4 as well since that makes it quicker.

Varnishes there is only one to use Testors Dull coat
http://www.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-1260-Spray-Testors/dp/B0035LOUMU

Ok here are items that are just really nice to have that you may not have thought about

You will need something to put the models on while you are painting them. I use corks and you can get those at a local craft store then you pick your brushes up. You don’t want to be holding on the mini while painting as your figures will pull even some of the dry paint off with enough handling.
Best way to attach them to the corks is poster tack. It is reusable and holds them very secure.
http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Poster-Reusable-Adhesive-E1531/dp/B000BKQDB4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420900105&sr=8-3&keywords=poster+tac

For priming I have seen a lot of people use a box to prime the minis and I have done this but I find it sometimes hard to get primer over the bottom of the minis. My solution to that is a yard stick. You are going to get paint all over it so make sure it is not one you ever plan on using as a yard stick again. Use the poster tack to minis to the stick. This allows me to flip the minis over completely to be able to get primer even in the hard to reach spots. I can spray about 12 minis at one time.


Edit wanted to add some examples of my work. These are the first minis I ever painted.
http://s750.photobucket.com/user/mrush007/slideshow/Zombicide%20First%20Batch

Materials:

Three 5-gallon buckets and one lid (Ace Hardware has white ones for $4, if you don't want orange or blue from HD or Lowe's.) All three cost $12-13.

THESE LEDS from Amazon. $13.59

THIS POWER SUPPLY, the Supernight LED Charger. It is $20.99. You will also need a power cord for it, which I recommend just going to literally ANY thrift store and picking out a nice three-pronged power cord. I'm fairly certain that any three-pronged power cord will work, so if you have one you're not using at home, you can use that.

THIS LED GROW LIGHT, which is 300w and cost $50.99.

TWO of these PC fans. Total cost $10.04.

I bought one of this black duct tape, one of this foil tape (although I recommend buying two, as I ran out with my first roll and had to buy another from the store), and also some double-sided tape, because, if your LED strip is like mine, the adhesive backing is almost nonexistent and the tape becomes necessary.

Oh, and good-quality velcro adhesive patches!

You will also need a power drill and a sturdy box cutter.



I started by taping the entire interior of one bucket with the foil tape, save for the bottom portion where the soil goes. Then I covered the outside with the black tape. Next I drilled holes in the bottom for drainage.

Then I took two of the other buckets and used a ruler's width to mark a cut line right below the lip of each bucket to create spacers. The process of cutting the plastic buckets was definitely the worst part of the process, especially since I didn't have a great cutter, so if you're getting a new one, don't be too cheap. I got this one and it's blade locking function no longer works after this project, so be advised. I lined the spacers with foil tape.

Using the remains of one of the other buckets, I trimmed more of the bucket down so that it's now only the bottom and stands 5" tall. I found some random large screws in my toolbox and drilled them around the circumference, which allows the rest of the bucket to be easily lifted off of the drain pan.

I then drew a circle about 1 cm in from the lip of the lid and cut that out. The light fits perfectly on it. There is lots of light escape at the rim, but it looks pretty cool, so I don't mind it for now.

For the power supply, I cut off the female end of the three-pronged cord I got from Arc Thrift and stripped the wires down a bit. There were three wires inside, green (ground), white (neutral), and black (live), which I then connected to driver. I was certain to unplug during any wire-play and I hope everyone else is, too.

The sidelights were sort of a struggle. I used a scrap of the buckets, like maybe 4-5 inches of bucket from about half-way down to a quarter, so not much. I then lined the inside with the double-sided tape, cutting strips, in an effort to conserve tape, which feels very stable. I drilled a hole and fed the cable through, then determined the best spot to drill a hole on the exterior bucket. It's about at the center of the bucket, or in my case, 13 cm down from the lip. Finally, I fed the LED cable through the exterior hole and the lights were basically in place, where it would sit right above the soil.

I didn't want to have to extend any cords, so I found an ideal spot to place the driver on the exterior so that all cables (LED strip, both fans) could reach their appropriate ports. I fixed the velcro onto the bucket and the driver and tidied the wires with some more duct tape.

Finally, I sealed the edges of both fans, inside and outside, with their respective tapes.


I'm pretty sure that's everything I've done to this point, but if I think of anything else, I'll add it. I'm likely going to black-out the spacers to reduce light leak.

Please let me know if you have any advice, questions, comments!

Thank you /r/SpaceBuckets, for the inspiration and wisdom!

Response to question block 1

I have yet to play against the AI player ("Alien Player"), and while the Doomsday Weapon scenario is a bit "simple" I find it enjoyable trying to build up and prepare for the onslaught of a superior foe. Then gain, I like the theme and simple play of Ogre (so glad I got the pocket edition when it was $2.95; I can't see paying for a deluxified version of this, but I do know back in the day people did buy minis and those did look pretty awesome).

Close Encounters adds in a challenge against Space Amoebas plus revises the alien AI. Better yet (for me), it adds in a cooperative mode and a way to play that aren't "kill another player".

I haven't even punched my Replicators expansion yet, so I can't comment on it. Nice hex tiles are included through.

 

I do want to note that there are ways to speed up the play of Space Empires: 4X:

• Quick Start in a competitive game is where set out the board where each player has a home territory and home territory tokens, then flip and reveal them all rather than explore and all colonies are set to a full 5 population.
  
• Low Maintenance is where cost to maintain fleets is halved
  
• Instant Technology Upgrade is where all ships get the tech when developed rather than having to upgrade (reduces bookkeeping thus making it play more like its predecessor game, Stellar Conquest).
  
• Short Game uses "earn 3 Colony Points" to win in addition to "destroy an enemy homeworld". Players build a full (5 point) colony in deep space for 1 Colony Point OR destroy an enemy colony (not damage) for 1 Colony Point.
  
• Play Simultaneously encourages players to do things at the same time rather than sequentially when it doesn't involve potential conflict. Everyone builds at the same time, everyone moves at the same time, etc. Of course, you all need to know the game and trust one another to play this way.
  
  The point is you could probably get a fast multiplayer game in, and then as the group gets faster you can start dropping some of these to experience the fuller flavor of the game.
  
   
  
  Concerning the P500, there are some staple games that GMT will always print. Men of Iron: Volume I failed at P500 and wasn't printed due to costs, but is now back in a tri-pack. Twilight Struggle will always be reprinted despite the P500 number because it will eventually sell (and has made enough to justify keeping a stock on hand). Space Empires: 4X products are between the two, but on the side of "reprint it as it will sell."
  
   
  
  

  Response to question block 2
  

  
  The game board is 21" x 28.75", so it should fit in the 35.5" x 25.5" size - but it may shift around. Solution? Buy some poster tack and tear off little pieces. If you aren't leaving it set up for months, this should clean off nicely. Since you aren't hiding your units from an opponent, they can all be face up with the number indicator next to them (though you might run out of space if you develop large fleets - but then use post it notes and make fleet boards to track... Close Encounters comes with 3 fleets, which is disappointing as Stellar Conquest had 15 fleet counters - so maybe make your own counters).
  
   
  
  Rather than setting up the board with exploration tokens, get some draw bags and draw as you explore (maybe put a cube or a piece of poster tack on unexplored spaces to mark them... or a piece of post-it note). I like one for each player homeworld color plus one in black for deep space counters. This speeds setup/teardown for me.
  
  Also, get some GMT counter trays to sort/store all those counters and use the tray divider template. I have 4 player trays with all their ships and 1/4 of the number counters on the top two rows divided up into thirds, and this fits the first two expansions in. On the lower half I have full sized bins for all the other counters (MS pipelines, colony ships, homeworld counters, fleets, etc). It works very nicely, but I'll probably have to subdivide a couple more bins once I punch Replicators. The great thing about the trays is they have lids that are fully removable, so quick setup and and quick teardown.
  
   
  
  With these tricks, I think you should be able to setup, store, restore, and then tear down the game pretty efficiently without too many problems - but still take photos just in case.
  
  **
  
  

  EDIT: Solo Scenarios
  

  
  Okay, did a read over the rulebooks to break down the solitaire games.
  
  Solitaire Scenario #1 & #2: Doomsday Machine (**Base Game)
  
  Small or large map. Build up your colonies & defenses to face off against 3 waves of increasingly tougher Doomsday Machines. Basic tutorial on how to build up defenses in light of a statistically superior foe, but won't teach you how to get aggressive and win the game normally.
  
  Solitaire Scenario #3: Base Game Alien Player(s)
  
  Face off against 2-3 alien players. These aliens get CP in a few different categories (defenses, tech, fleet), where fleet CP are not spent until you either move to attack their homeworld or encounter one of their fleets. There are two types of fleets: regular and raider (cloaking). It gives you more of a sense of what it is like to go out an attack while defending yourself against other players, but you don't get to see the same stacks as you would in a multiplayer game.
  
  Solitaire Scenario #4: Space Amoebas (Close Encounters)
  
  Three different giant space amoebas have appeared in deep space. While expanding, you need to research science technology so you can eventually build space vessels (no counters provided, use mine sweepers counters instead). Then you have to go out and survey the amoebas, earning 10 research points to determine how you can attack them. Finally, you build a fleet and go wipe them out. Oh, all the while the amoebas will be dividing and slowly taking over more and more hexes. You can build mines and move them into a hex where the amoebas are to stop the spread that turn, but then there is a chance they will learn to attack the mines and become immune to them.
  
  Your goal is to save your civilization from this encroaching threat. Difficulty determines how soon they start spreading. This is the opposite of the Doomsday Machine scenarios, so you are instead focuses on learning how to build an offensive fleet and how to take the battle to an enemy.
  
  Solitaire Scenario #5: Close Encounters Alien Player(s)
  
  This uses a base game like system but adds in a bunch of extra rules from close encounters, and there are flowcharts to help determine what the alien players does. The aliens now can colonize planets, take over your colonies, build exploration and extermination fleets, might destroy colonies that they can't take with ground troops, get alien artifact cards, and so on.
  
  Solitaire Scenario #6: Close Encounter Alien Player(s) VP game*
  
  Takes the 2 player cooperative variant with a galactic capitol you need to protect and turns it into a solo game. Aliens also now earn VPs, so can also win that way.
  
   
  
  As /u/grey81 said, it isn't quite the real game. You don't have another intelligent human player moving pieces and developing stacks, you don't see them revealing colonies and building MS pipelines, and you don't see the stacks suddenly shift towards you and ask yourself "is it a bluff or an attack fleet - and do I have tech to defend or should I go on the attack first?" However, the basic game even multiplayer is still "survive the onslaught while figuring out how to attack yourself" and isn't that much different from the Solitaire Scenarios (especially the Close Encounters alien player ones).
  
  Either way, as a solo player I think Replicators isn't too useful to get beyond having some neat components. No solitaire scenarios officially made for it, and I'm not sure you could use the content in it too effectively for a solitaire scenario. Unfortunately, multiplayer solitaire wouldn't work well for this game due to hidden information and a bluffing element... so you'll need to decide if it fits your style. (I personally am glad they have an objective based solitaire mode vs "get your best score" type play you see in Agricola or Subdivision* - but others love that style and hate this battle oriented style of victory.)

A few items that will help with cable management:

• Cable Sleeve - simple, effective, and easy to use, but also requires some forethought to not end up with a cable snake. Since the material is soft it can be cut to length and used to go around corners. Also great protection from small pets.
  
  
• Double sided tape - Easy to use, and has a really good hold. Best use is for mounting your power strip. Down side is that it will most likely cause paint damage if it's ever removed.
  
  
• Cable Clips - great for directing the flow of wires. Simple to use, and hold quite well. Used with the cable sleeve, you can keep the wire snake at bay (cut a hole in the sleeve and poke the clip through while mounting to the wall or desk). Similarly with the double sided tape, you may have damage if you try to remove them.
  
  
• Velcro Straps - these have good length on them for help keeping multiple wires tightly grouped. The pack also comes with a good amount of them, in grey and black. The help keep the cable snake from bulging.
  
  

Nice job! Try to keep the camera in focus (how blurry or clear the images is and what range it is clear at) and the set stable though.
When I started I had this same issue, but it's a super easy fix.

Get some poster tack http://www.amazon.ca/Elmers-Poster-Reusable-Adhesive-E1531/dp/B000BKQDB4 like this, roll it into small balls and stick it under objects you don't want moving, such as the stationary car I use this on my videos all the time for background objects and under the feet of figures to keep their feet from sliding.

With the focus issue, all you need to do is turn off auto focus, your camera is trying to focus on the car which makes it out of focus for a few seconds while you're taking the picture. All you gotta do is make it so that its on manual focus or MF so that it doesn't attempt to change the focus in the middle of the shots.

Good luck and Happy Animating!

Gage (HonestHatch - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSy1co_9jsUHKu3wO-r3ffg)

• Seconding /u/joefraz78's recommendation for a headboard. Or, think about upgrading your frame at some point to a something with a headboard; wood could look nice and you could eventually update your other pieces to go with it.
  
  
• Since your bedframe is very utilitarian, and you're storing stuff under it, consider a bedskirt, or a blanket that's one size up from your bed (looks like a full, so a queen blanket).
  
  
• If it wouldn't stick out too far for your tastes, consider rotating the bed 90 degrees so that your head is on the same wall as the dresser, leaving space between the side of the bed and the wall for your nightstand. It will look more intentional and make it easier to make the bed/change the sheets. It might even work slightly better with your TV location.
  
  
• Lighting makes a huge difference. Overhead tends to be the harshest; everything looks better in a soft warm glow. Consider a lamp for your nightstand for reading and general ambiance -- this one has an interesting industrial look and isn't too cheesy. Think about adding a second lamp on top of your dresser, too.
  
  
• If you have the budget for it, think about upgrading that TV stand. No judgment, we all had ones like that in our first apartments too! But a console style with some concealed storage would look more polished.
  
  
• Art! Not sure if you can hang stuff on your walls, but Etsy and the internet are full of gorgeous inexpensive prints. Maps (nautical, star, vintage), minimal black-and-white photography, landscapes -- you name it, it's out there and you can order it. You can get fairly inexpensive frames at a craft store (Michaels, A.C. Moore, whatever you have where you are) to dress them up. If you can't put nails in the walls, Blu-Tack is good for hanging stuff without damaging the piece or the wall.
  
  
• It may seem weird to put a rug on top of wall-to-wall, but it can make your room feel more put-together and cohesive. Plus, you can use it in your next place. Jute is usually pretty inexpensive and comes in various colors (in a small room I'd stick with a light color so as not to overwhelm the space).
  
  
• Clear surfaces make a room feel calmer. If you have somewhere to store the stuff currently on top of your dresser (shoutout to a fellow Cornelia Funke fan), you'll probably feel better every time you walk in. Ditto for the nightstand; I'd tuck away everything you aren't using daily.
  
  
• And finally, the obligatory plant recommendation. If you take some of the ideas above, you'll have a few different places you can put a plant. Succulents are almost impossible to kill.

Interesting project!

I take it that the whole assembly will be mounted vertically on a wall for display purposes?

Would a few unobtrusive pins/ pegs/headless nails into the backboard in strategic places to support the Games/Console work? You could colour them to match the background, or even just make them into some kind of shiny feature?

Alternatively, perhaps some transparent acrylic sheeting made into either a narrow shelf/ shelves or some clips, might be an option which would be near-invisible at any distance....

Or could you bend some thin, stiff wire/ brass rod into supports/clips and fix it to the backboard, as this might also be quite unobtrusive depending on how you do it....

Otherwise, magnets and/ or velcro might be a good 'Plan B,' although be careful when using magnets around electronics! :>)>

A really cheap temporary solution might be a big dollop of Blu-Tack (http://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-060968-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72), but I'm not sure this would hold up very well over time :>)>

Hope that helps, good luck! :>)>

PS - don't forget to make the presentation frame easily openable, for when access to the Console is needed!

honestly its super easy...

u need

• 6 square feet of clear acrylic ($60 at home depot)
  
• 12 feet of plastic cornering ($5)
  
• good mounting tape ($5)
  
• 15 feet of LED strips ($28)
  
• One way mirror film ($10)
  
  
  how to assemble:
  
  

1. Use a utility knife and a straight edge to score and cut the acrylic sheets. U don’t need to cut all the way through just enough to snap it over the edge of a table. Should be left with six 12” squares of clear acrylic.
   
   
2. Dry build the box (i just used masking tape to hold it together) and just cut the corner guard to the needed length for each side.
   
   
3. Apply the mirror film to acrylic
   
   
4. Dry build the corner guard into a box (ur trying to achieve a frame) and place the mirrored acrylic into place, EXCEPT the top piece. That u just set on top of the frame.
   
   
5. Lay in the LED strips (just tape them in place for now). Theres a way to do it where u only need to over lap 3 times, its impossible to cover every edge without overlapping.
   
   
6. Ur practically done! Just go back and use the mounting tape to set everything in place. For the top piece, use velcro on the corners and just stick it in place. This will save u a lot of frustration and time (trust me).
   
   Thats pretty much it. I kinda just started making it and winged it the whole way. Longest and hardest part is cutting the acrylic but its not that bad. Whole thing took me abt 2 trips to home depot and 3 hours over 2 two days (mirror film take 12 hrs to set). All and all, it was really easy. It helps to have someone help build, but theres nothing u really can’t do by urself. Hope u guys enjoy! reply w questions abt stuff n ill try to answer
   
   ill edit this post later to include the amazon links to the LED strips and include pictures
   
   Edit: Added links
   

I believe my two sticks are heavier than your 3D Pro. I used to have a "Logitech Wingman Extreme Digital 3D" (just a bizarre name).

Anyway... when AC 0.8 came out way back when, I had the same issue with my Wingman sliding around. Then, someone on this sub recommended using Scotch Restickable Dots.

I bought one of those giant "mouse" pads that takes up almost the entire length of my desk, slapped some dots under it to firmly lock it to the desk, then put dots on the corners of my sticks and slap them onto the mouse pad. My sticks don't move. It's quick, easy, and the dots are washable/reusable. The only thing that happens is my giant mouse pad tends to slide up over time. Maybe once every few months, I have to redo the dots that hold it to the desk.

Some people use velco or hook-n-loop fasteners. Yes, those would give you a strong hold but require you to attach (semi-permanently) one side of the velcro to the desk. I didn't want that. The Dots are sticky but come up easily and leave no residue. The force I exert on the sticks while playing is enough to keep the dots stuck to my pad.

I've researched some serious long term mounting solutions, but I have some very strict requirements.

1. It needs to be stable and secure and not wobble or shift.
   
2. It needs to be quickly and easily removable or movable because my computer is my office/work computer first. I can't have flight sticks in my way.
   
   I stumbled upon the RAM Mounts product line. Seems mostly perfect for my needs... VERY secure AND lockable/movable/adjustable. BUT, it's a bit more than I want to spend... so that's on hold.

3/4" heatshrink to go over the ESC's. 0.25" I think to go over your battery cables. 5/8ths maybe to cover XT60 connectors. Wire sleeves aren't needed. I hold stuff down with double sided tape. or a wrap of electrical.

Thin solder, you'll thank me. Along with a pencil tip for your iron. You'll want ?14G? wire to solder a power lead, confirm this. I also didn't have a 5V step down to power my FC on my first build. You'll want one. Many PDB's have one integrated. That makes it easy.

Purple Loctite or your frame will vibrate itself apart, Real quick. Don't use this on Nylon, and don't get it on the motor shaft, but it is extra important to use on motor mounts though. Just be careful.

A battery buzzer that you can solder onto your PDB is nice. Adhesive velcro is good if you want to use that in addition to battery straps. Either that or hobby foam. A parallel charging board is nice to have so you don't lose an entire day charging batteries. Learn to use it.

I personally replace all my stock hardware with Aluminum Cap screws because I want to cut weight and I hate dealing with stripped hex heads. Not needed though. Zip ties are good to have. A bundle of black ones will work. I've found the colored ones are more prone to breaking. They are good to hold antenna wires.

90deg pin headers are nice. My FC didn't come with those, only straight, and stack height is a real problem with straight pins. Extra props. You'll want those. 8mm socket to remove prop nuts. 3mm allen key. USB to micro USB cable to update your FC. Some XT60 connectors.

Beyond that, I'm sure I'm over looking some things. After a couple of builds you just have extras of stuff so you overlook.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PS9S3M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.fastener-express.com/aluminum-fasteners-nuts-washers.aspx

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GOL5CQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094EJG3K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4BV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you do decide to get it, I just have two suggestions for setting everything up:

1. The double sided tape they send for the back camera is okay, but mine fell off after a few months. I replaced it with 15lb double sided tape (link), and it had been perfect ever since. I'd recommend doing the same.
   
   
2. The cord for the back camera is super long, so I'd check on YouTube for examples of how to get it to the back of the car. I wound mine through the "holding bars" on the roof of the car.
   
   Anyway, have a great start to your 2017! :D

> Well shit didn't think about that with the controller. Here is exactly what I ordered.http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-th9x-r9b-9channel-radio.html

According to the description it comes with a receiver.

> Just bought 2 of the 3S 5500mAh 30-40C

That should do you nicely.

> Any other random things you think we will need

Using amazon links and favoring prime options even if a few $$ more. The most cost effective way to get any of the below would be ebay and slow free shipping.

• Double sided mounting tape to help hold the ESCs, receiver, or flight controller in place. I do NOT use the "heavy duty" or "permanent" mounting tape as you may want to move things around or swap out parts at some point. My preference is the 3M/Scotch Clear Mounting Tape as I find to easy to remove from the surface. Should be able to find the mounting tape at hardware store or even a target/walmart.
  
• Heat shrink tubing
  
• You'll need a way to connect your batteries to your power distribution board. The batteries you picked use a Dean-Style T Connector. You'll need to make a connector cable like this to attach to your power dist board. - Image. You can either make your own cable from scratch or cut and repurpose existing cables.
  
• From "Scratch" - Connectors + Wire + some heat shrink and soldering time.
  
• Repurpose - Buy one of these, cut off the unneeded end, and solder to the S550's power distribution board. http://www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-Tamiya-Charge-Adapter/dp/B0035OYLU8/
  
• Parallel battery connector. Gives you the option to either run one or two 5500mAh batteries. Making a 11000mAh for long flights - http://www.amazon.com/Deans-Ultra-Battery-Harness-Parallel/dp/B000RGZ07A/
  
  
• If your radio receiver doesn't come with servo leads you'll need them to connect between the radio receiver and the flight controller (and gimbal)
  
• Short - http://www.amazon.com/deep-deal-10cm-Servo-Extension-Cable/dp/B00BL0YGS0/
  
• Extension - http://www.amazon.com/VIMVIP-Female-Futaba-Extension-Control/dp/B00N8P8TT8/ Might be needed to run leads to the gimbal for tilt control. Prime... so you can wait on this till you know if the other servo cables will be long enough.
  
  
• Battery straps. I'm running out the door so can't search/grab more links right now, but you'll need some velcro straps to hold the battery or batteries in place.
  
  
• You'll want to check ebay for extra S550 arms if you haven't already. Shipping will take a while, but they are cheap and good to have some spare arms, as they will break. Alternate front/back/side colors are nice to help maintain orientation in the sky.
  
  
• Extra props is you haven't ordered any. NOTE: The DJI E310 Power set uses the newer 9450 DJI props instead of the older 9443
  
  

I've been asked this several times haha. I'll do a little explaining now, but I think it's time I put together an album explaining it with pictures.

I used the following wiring harness:
OPT7 Offroad Light Bar wiring Harness Kit (4 Items), 380W - Single Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K1NS0PS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u9hrxb06G38RA

The wiring is in a protective plastic/rubber sleeve. I ran the sleeve up the side of the windshield. On my windshield there's a slight gap between the metal of the body and glass, like the Rubber seal is set in a little bit. I cut a thin strip of 3m exterior mounting tape and used a screwdriver or something to push it into the gap.

Scotch Exterior Mounting Tape, 1-Inch by 60-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UaLrxbHN01CVZ

The adhesive tape has held up all winter and about a total of 8 months, so I'd say it works well.

I ran it up the passenger side because the way my light bar was the wiring came out on that side, plus you don't see it easily everytime you get in the car. You could do the drivers side also. The wiring harness I used was basically just long enough. I'd recommend starting from the light and working backwards to the battery, that way you don't have any extra wiring up top.

You can also use some type of adhesive wire clip to guide the wire down the rain gutter thing so it's a little more secure till it gets to the light. I attempted to do this, but I had trouble getting the clip things to stick.I'll probably try to redo it soon.

Like I said, I'll try to get some pictures when I get around to it to help explain it further.

This way is a lot easier and "safer" than drilling through the roof or something.

I've seen a few of these built, so I wanted to give them a try. Flew some sorties tonight and pretty happy with them so far. Really nice to have something which can be removed easily when I'm done.

3" Drill Press Vice

Steel brackets

Extreme Velcro

I found this extreme velcro on a whim and it's awesome. It adheres to anything and locks your stick/throttle down tight, yet can still be removed when you are done. I used it to attach my IR clip to the headphones, and it's great there also.

Boards are simply a cheap bamboo cutting board I got at Walmart and sawed in two. Add the bolts and screws and I'd say this whole thing was less than $50.

Maybe be aware the brackets are on the small side, so if you want something that will hang lower, you'll want to look at something different.

Edit: just wanted to say....you'll need to wipe down the vices when you get them. They are covered with a light oil to prevent rusting I'd guess. Take a rag and give them quick wipe all over (the jaws too, they will leave a mark on your desk!)

Here's some ideas:

• Lights/garlands around walls with command hooks to get this look. If your decorations are heavier, get bigger hooks. These are temporary and very easily removed and put up.
  
• Decorating around the TV looks so cozy.
  
• Sticky Tack to put up things like snowflakes on walls or doors (also very easily put up and removed!)
  
• If you don't have space for a tree, you can try things like this or get a little tabletop one.
  
• This wreath hanger might work (depending on how thick your door is). Does no damage, I use one just like it!
  
• Window decals don't take up any space and are temporary.
  
• Hanging ornaments on cabinet handles (surprisingly hard to find pictures of this, I do this all the time, just have to make sure you don't use ornament hooks and tie things with string or they might fall off and break).
  
• Holiday decor for the rest of the house can make a big impact for how your space feels. Things like bedding or bath decor.
  
  I would focus on decorating by area to make the rest of your home feel festive, if you can't focus around a fireplace like you seem to have in the past.
  
  ​

here is what i used:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XJKOCBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_5s0HAbREM7Z6Y the lights make sure its set to cool white if you are buying your selfnow the cable for the top most light is a bit short so u can always cut and solder a bit from the bottom light to the top one if you don't want the mess that i havealthough i did try to make it as neatly as possible.for securing the wires i just used clear 4inch zip ties and tucked them behind the frame inside.https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-8-Outlet-Conserve-Protector-F7C01008q/dp/B003P2UMNK/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540851234&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=remote+controll+surge+protector got this surge protector it comes with 6 outlets which are controlled by a remote so you can turn on all the cases with 1 button

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Tough-Double-Mounting-Inches/dp/B00OXVG9FW to secure the lights i used this double sided tape

and a bit of weather seal to keep the dust out on all 4 sides u can pick some up at home depot or fleet farm just make sure its 5/16th size

will be posting a big figure unboxing a bit later and how they all look inside the case.

​

Edit: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40275846/ forgot to link the bottom shelf so here it is pretty sturdy for the price

Blu-Tack Reusable Adhesive 75g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FGLX72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CtvACbZ1C8Y6K



Medicine bottle :

https://recyclenation.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/medicine-bottle-recycling.jpg


Blue stuff on the bottom of model. Stick model to cap of bottle. Hold bottle in hand, I stead of holding model or base of model. Good comfortable grip, easy to hold hard to drop.


Tops of spray paint cans works great also.

1. I had different types of lines, apparently they are very smooth, so mine were 12ft each.
   
2. Exactly what I have, works fine.
   
3. Temp depends on what you do - some English ales are supposed to be at a little higher temp, while lagers are usually at lower. I set mine at 35 personally. When I was cold crashing I set it at 32 and froze my beer :)
   
   
4. I didn't do any insulation - seems to be fine, it doesn't turn on too often. I might do insulation at some point but so far it's fine, I think wood is a pretty good insulator.
   
   
5. I haven't found the fan for mine yet, need to do it to avoid freezing again. I was looking for 110v ones.
   
   
6. Just be aware that you'll be lifting 5 gallon kegs over there and the collar (and it's usually crowded and there is a bunch of lines too).
   
   
7. I got this one: https://www.barproducts.com/barconic-stainless-steel-drip-tray . It's fine size-wise, but I would probably get one an inch wider, it drips at the end of the tray. I attached it with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083K36KA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . It's a glue tape that holds it really well, I can put a full mug there and it still holds.
   
   I would also recommend to buy this:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BO473HI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   fruit flies tend to get into the faucets and then you'll get one in the first glass of beer that you have.

Not super cheap but this will do the trick. You can also use poster tack (YMV with different brands). Maybe spray a coat of matte varnish on before applying tape/putty just to be safe.

Masking fluid could work too, but it has some caveats. You need to paint it on pretty thick, and don't let it sit for too long or it will be hard to get it all off. Its better for paint chips and small things, I don't recommend it for hoards of tyranids.

Masking is one of the drawbacks of airbrushing. You might be better off using a brush for the red, then carefully airbrushing highlights with just some quick masking. Then go back and touch up the blue with a brush if needed.

It looks like the mount adheres to the windshield and the camera slides down on the mount so there isn't any adhesion between the mount and camera.

Whatever needs adhering prep it the same way I described above. Use Scotch Extreme, Gorilla , or something comparable. Make sure the tape is either black or clear. If it's grey or another color it will easily be seen from outside the vehicle (i.e. not stealth). After you prep the area make sure you don't touch any of the clean surfaces including the sticky part of the tape! Hold pressure on the parts for a little bit to make sure it sticks well.

I'm not sure how far you're willing to go, but one of my favorite solutions is poster putty. It seems silly, but this stuff sticks to just about anything. I used it to mount my sensor bar on top of my LCD TV. The best part is that if I don't like/want it anymore, it comes off cleanly.

Double sided tape would work if it's strong enough. Something like this stuff.

What case do you have? You may be better off using the side panel fan as intake so it gives your GPU fresh, cool air.

edit: made a short video showing off the RGB in glorious 4k. Kick back, relax, and be mesmerized by the Trident Z. https://youtu.be/fSYkdc0yXbY

Hey, thanks for looking! Got my build up and running yesterday.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $310.00
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler | Purchased For $60.00
Motherboard | Asus ROG STRIX Z270i GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | Purchased For $180.00
Storage | Intel 600p Series 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | Purchased For $162.00
Storage | Crucial MX300 1.1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | Purchased For $252.00
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB ACX 3.0 Video Card | Purchased For $360.00
Power Supply | Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply | Purchased For $120.00
Case Fan | Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM 37.9 CFM 92mm Fan | Purchased For $11.00
Case Fan | Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM 37.9 CFM 92mm Fan | Purchased For $11.00
Case Fan | Corsair ML120 75.0 CFM 120mm Fans | Purchased For $32.99
Other| Trident Z RGB DDR4 3200 2x8GB| Purchased For $135.00
Other| NCASE M1| Purchased For $230.00
Other| Cablemod RGB LED Strip| Purchased For $22.00
Other| 3D printed window mounts| Purchased For $36.87
Other| Tempered Glass Window| Purchased For $46.68
Other| Ensourced Custom Cables| Purchased For $95.25
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2064.79
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-27 16:39 EST-0500 |

I ordered a custom size piece of tempered glass from onedayglass.com. It is 12 7/8" by 9 1/2" and 1/8" thick and the light gray tint variant. I used the .STL files graciously provided by /u/asone_ and uploaded them to shapeways.com who 3D printed them and shipped them to me. I used this mounting tape to hold the two together. The tape was really thick and a pain to work with and cut to size. You may see some air bubbles in the last few pictures. Hopefully I can work them all out somehow.

The PSU cables are from ensourced.net and are the mind bender blue color. I bought the Corsair Shorty's and custom extensions. The lengths I got were 300mm for the 24 pin, 400mm for the CPU, and 300mm for PCI-E. All of them could be a bit shorter, but I am glad they all reach.

Bought this filter for the bottom intake fans.

I plan on stress testing and overclocking/de-lidding the 7700k in the near future.

Happy to answer any questions!

The straps are a great idea. I also heard that Blu Tack works well for that, might give that a try. Apparently this accessories4less site is pretty well known, 2nd mention in this thread. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

After seeing the various customizations out there I decided to take a shot at my own. I'm not a crafty sort (as you can probably tell) but I am pretty happy with the outcome.

This setup lets you see enemy number, HP, and status without having to look at a computer screen or sleeves. How to do it...

1. Stands from SpielPro, though frankly the existing ones probably work fine.
   UPDATE: Don't buy them- the yellows are defective and you can't easily insert your standees without scuffing them.
   
   
2. A labeler. I used this to print and attach the extra numbers in the middle.
   
   
3. Some mounting putty. Never used putty before but this seemed to work fine. You don't need much- if you look at the far right stand, that is plenty.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQMFEC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
4. Small dice. Any color or whatever will do. I used these.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MDU77YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Even if you aren't very crafty this is pretty easy to do and it makes updating combat results a breeze. Just rotate the dice and attach status as needed. I'm always looking to optimize, so if you can think of any further improvements, let me know!
   
   

For better painting, especially on the Stormcast side, do sub-assemblies and for gaming before you have completely finished paintjob, stick the models together with blue-tac/poster putty - get this shit anyways, great for sticking wash pots to table so you don't flip them on your table/carpet etc. Another tip - if you cannot remove remains of the blue tac from model by hand, use a bigger blue-tac ball to remove it.

Subassemblies before painting:
Liberators - Hands with shields kept separate, add with bluetac before model is finished for playing

Retributors - "backpacks" kept separate for better access to back area. Possibly weapons as well for access to the front.

Prosecutors - wings removed if possible for painting them separately (way better handling) and access to the whole model, especially the Prime model has somehow very stupid wing placement.

Lord-Celestant on Dracoth - generaly not really much possibility for subassembly at all :(

Relictor - just glue this shit together, you can access anything on the mini

Chaos - in general I don't think there is any need for sub-assemblies, as the models have generaly open poses allowing great access for painting. However, Korghos Khul might be a good idea to keep him separate from the lord (blue tac) and therefore both models separate from base (blue tac).

By the way, I generally use bluetac to attach models to bases for playing, as bases are usually the last thing I paint/customize to match the whole paintscheme.

On the VR lens lab adapters... I'm using poster putty to keep them in place. Works great for me and cheaper than printing a new adapter and getting new lenses.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Fun-Tak-Mounting-2-Ounce-1087306/dp/B001F57ZPW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479924243&sr=8-2&keywords=loctite+fun-tak

FWIW, I really wish the Rift had been made more friendly to glasses - either with an optional "facial interface" or some mounting posts attached to the lens assembly. I don't blame VR Lens lab - there's just nothing in there to attach anything or corners for a friction fit.

I have the same figure.

While it does come with some white tack, it sounds like yours is missing, but this still will do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CEMCXQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

But the museum wax @suddenly_ponies mentioned looks awesome as well and will probably stick better.

If you're insistent on deconstructing before painting, but want to play a few first, try using sticky-tack or fun-tack to keep the minis together and on their bases. Keep in mind, if painted pieces before gluing and are using a plastic glue or cement, you'll need to get the paint/primer off the contact points before gluing or it won't work properly. Even if you're using regular super glue you should still remove any paint to make a stronger bond.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Fun-Tak-Mounting-2-Ounce-1087306/dp/B001F57ZPW

Thanks! I have ordered magnet sheets like these ones and they work great. Cheers!

Sounds like there could be some RF interference.

Try this USB hub and put the hub closer to where your controller will be, and then plug the MS dongle into that.

I have one on my desk with my Logitech keyboard and mouse dongles and it's worked great.

(Note it's USB2 on purpose, USB3 has been known to cause interference with wireless devices)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B4YBR3Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Secondary tip:

If you put that USB hub on your desk and want it to stay put, these are great temporary fasteners:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y17T70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yep! The Fredde desk, my best friend uses it as well. This is the link for the sheet magnets I ordered -

10 Magnetic Sheets of 8" x 10" Adhesive 20 mil Magnet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XNAHMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1G2mzbEA12RZY

I agree. Industrial Velcro is incredibly strong, and if you properly clean the surface before applying the velcro, it'll last forever.
Plus, it has the added benefit of not adding more holes to your boat.

So my internet was having issues and I decided there has to be a better method. So I spent like an hour drawing something up in MS paint (I suck at drawing and can't use PS). Just as I'm getting ready to upload an image of it, I think about discs with a beveled inside grip and how I could make those stay better. So I come up with the idea for a little rubber or maybe some double sided mounting tape for added grip. This tape. Damn it. That's when I realized, that sort of tape with a modified L Bracket (so it looks more like an M) would be all you need, and would hold better than anything else out there. All that work for nothing. :(

I actually used magnetic sheets.

They have an adhesive side but I just stapled them to the wall using a thin caliber staple gun. To be honest I even cut those sheets in half and spaced them about a few inches apart. They are surprisingly strong and could hold more than 1 steelbook easily with half a sheet.

i just really really want to use this sticky tack in order to combine the "my neighbor totoro" blu-ray and dvd together to create the greatest movie experience ever, all while ruining my blu-ray player! :D:D:D:D please oh please Schmad on my add on :p

Blu Tack

Blu-Tack Reusable Adhesive 75g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FGLX72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AuF.ybQGE1KJT

This stuff is great for figures. It doesn't stain and it is pretty good at holding stuff in. I use it all the time with Figmas and nendos, when scales won't stay on there stands, and for BJDs

Try using a bit sticky tack to get the arms lined up as a dry fit before you glue, that way you're not trying to grow 3 extra hands and fidget with alignment that keeps shifting on you constantly. Use the tack to stick the pieces together, then you can adjust and remove the tack point by point when you're happy with their alignment and ready to glue.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-Blu-Tack-Adhesive-801103/dp/B00I42EOJE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509542585&sr=8-4&keywords=bluetack

The toggle bolt, or some type of fastener will indeed hold more weight and be a more permanent fix. However, you said you are a renter, which changes things.

In that case you might consider using a foam mounting tape, or the stronger exterior mounting tape.

Just make sure you clean both the back of the phone and the wall thoroughly, and then wipe both down with alcohol prior to tape application. If you put enough mounting tape on that phone, which looks fairly light, your troubles should be over. That's going to be your cheapest option that'll last as long as you are there and not require any special tools or wall surgery. Especially considering that wall looks pretty dodgy in the first place and trying to affix anything through it could be asking for more trouble than it is worth. If you owned it I'd advise different but that is not what you asked. Good luck.

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Exterior-Mounting-1-Inch-60-Inch/dp/B00004Z4BV

or

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00004Z4BU

Both should do the job just fine. The second one is weaker supposedly but I'm pretty sure it's the one I used for my power strips and they've held up well. I always worry about going too strong and trying to remove it later.

That looks like Poster Putty. If it's good enough to hang my Monster Energy Drink™ poster on my wall, It's good enough for my car!

Required Hardware includes:

Item | Link | Exact Item I Used | Cost ($ CDN)
---|---|----|----
Raspberry Pi kit | link | Close Enough | $78.95
Arduino Nano | link | Yes | $25.99/5
50W 5v Power Supply | link | No| $26.45
5m WS2812B LED Strip | link | Yes | US$24.89
HDMI Splitter | link | Yes | $28.99
HDMI to RCA | link | Yes | $18.89
UTV007 Framegrabber | link | Yes | $17.99
RCA Male/Male | link | No | $2.59
Power Bar | link | No, but I might buy it | $20.85
Double Sided Tape | link | Yes | $6.45
HDMI x3 | | N/A | $10
Mini/Micro USB Cables | | N/A | $10

Total: ~CDN $260

Amateur tip from a fellow newbie.

Get yourself some poster tack and an old pill bottle. Use the tack to stick the mini to the top of the pill bottle and hold that when you're painting. You'll get less paint on you, and you'll avoid smudging the beautiful work you just did when you turn to the other side. :)

You can fill the pill bottle with pennies or something to give it some heft so it doesn't fall over constantly. :)

I use this stuff: Loctite Fun-Tak Mounting Putty 2-Ounce (1087306) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F57ZPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pfp8CbWEJG0HD

I put some on a pops feet when it won't stand to help balance it out. There's probably better solutions out there but this one has worked for me. Hope it helps.

I have had good luck with 3M double sided glass mounting tape. Its a translucent 1mm thick rubber material with strong adhesive on both sides:
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00004Z4BU

Here is an outdoor type:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch-1-in-x-1-66-yds-Outdoor-Mounting-Tape-411DC-SF/100575385

I've had good luck with fun tack.

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1087306-2-Ounce-Fun-Tak-Mounting/dp/B001F57ZPW

Based on reviews though I'd probably go wtih this for posters: http://www.amazon.com/Command-Poster-Adhesive-Value-48-Strip/dp/B001KYSAN4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1377529947&sr=1-1&keywords=command+strips

I plan on storing my seeds for years. Here's how I do it:

1. Drill a 3/4" hole in the lid of a 2 or 4 oz. baby food jar, using a Forstner bit. Tape over the hole with micropore tape on both sides. Fill the jar half-way with Damprid (calcium chloride). Silica gel only gets RH down to 40%, whereas CaCl2 lowers it to <25%. Stuff the rest of the jar with cotton and screw the lid on. I stick the baby food jar to the bottom of a pint- or quart-sized wide-mouth mason jar using these from Wallyworld.
   
   
2. Put the seeds in small ziploc baggies or breeder's packs inside the mason jar. Make sure they're slightly open and not airtight.
   
   
3. Put some oxygen absorber packets in there.
   
   
4. Put the lid on and vacuum seal the jar with one of these and a vacuum pump. You can use a Food Saver pump if you have one but I went with a cheaper option. I squirt some silicone in a ring around the lip for a better seal to the jar sealer.
   
   
5. Screw the jar ring on and store the mason jar in the fridge.
   
   This method takes care of the 3 things that lower seed viability--humidity, oxidation (with the oxygen absorbers and vacuum seal), and temperature. I also plan on saving herb for the long haul like this, but with 62% Boveda packs instead of the CaCl2.

> Am definitely thinking contrast paints are the way to go for starters. Do they come in inclusive sets?

​

Depends on if you remember how to paint, really. It's another way to do things. No sets, AFAIK, but they are intended to replace base, shade and layer paints with one paint, so they're overall either cheaper or better value for money, if you didn't do highlights before contrast paints.

​

Supplies:

--Razor knife

​

--Cut mat

​

--plastic glue

​

--*thick* superglue

​

--Spray primer of choice

​

--cheap arts & craft store brushes

​

--sticky tac

​

--gatorade caps

As stated in my other post, I've had this thing running for over a month at 75c with no loss of cohesion

I'll have to do some checking if I ever go above that I'm sure, but for PLA and PETG it's been perfect

Looks like, to have a higher Curie temperature, you'd want to use thicker 60mil sheets

Loud whistle - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FOJRF64/

Heavy duty velcro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O6T2ZS

Sugru throttle nub - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/

I liked the recent post with the bicycle bell mod, really anything to enhance safety, especially in NYC, where jaywalkers cross roads diagonally with their heads buried in their phones and then proceed to do the "evade me" shimmy when they finally see you coming.

I use it sparingly, 120 dB is on the human pain threshold for hearing, so it's quite jarring. A quick toot toot tends to resolve most antsy situations, but a nice sustained hard whistle can even help you be heard from inside yellow cabs.

Use the 3m clear double sided mounting tape. http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00004Z4BU

I have used this for many different body molding/piece applications and holds up really well.

Cut and fit with a razor knife, clean affected area before applying and then use a small clip clamp or anything else to apply a big of pressure to it and let it settle and dry for a few hours, should hold up great.

I have even used it on exterior body moldings and holds up in the summer heat.

Hey all,

Been lurking on here mostly! This is my first mini, and I was wondering if you guys could help me out.

What can I do to save time (I'm working full time, and go to school full time) or speed up the process of painting miniatures? On another sub they've mentioned batch painting, is this what most of you do?
Lot on the pictures here I see the minis attached to a corkthing, how do you attach the mini to it? Blu tak?
*What is a good way to deal with minis that have hard to reach spots? Should I leave those spaces black?

I'm interested in how well it saved the print! I've never seen that before. Do you think some Tac 'N Stik would work as well?

Was searching for info on the firmware for the mouse and came across this thread/comment:

I've been using blu-tack (http://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-060968-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72) to clean the grips and it works beautifully. I just spread out a layer of the tack and press down real hard and then peel it off and it's as good as brand new.

If you get the grey outdoor mounting strips, it will take out your drywall before it falls off (that may be a problem to take down but it's easy to install). It's crazy strong after it cures. It's the consumer version of the VHB tape compared here with rivets. We use it in our small batch manufacturing business....

EDIT: Packaging looks like this

Poster Putty great when you have delicate items to solder, holds stuff in place without having to mess with grippers and clips.

Gorilla Clear Tape I use it to keep my RX in place and under all my ESCs in combination with zip ties. Some of the stickiest stuff I've found yet and I run a sign shop so I deal with adhesives all the time.

I suggest poster putty. They're cheap, come off clean but should be strong enough to prevent sliding around. Poster putty doesn't stick as well to bottoms of Ikea desktops (the cardboard looking side), but it's just for preventing slide, not fighting gravity. I do this personally, and it's been fine.

> Put your mini on something, like in my picture it's tac'd to a piece of 1" pex. A lot of people put theirs on an old pill bottle or something. POINT IS, not to hold the mini with your hand. Keeps oils off and makes it easier to paint.

Blu-tack and a wine cork.

What I would up getting was the following:

1. https://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/art/10159443/
   It is $12.99, and 14 ½x30 ¾. It will fit ten steelbooks, in the format I have shown, or horizontal.
   
   
2. 10 Adhesive Magnetic Sheets - 8.5" x 11" - 20 mil Magnet - Peel & Stick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SOV4NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x8kJAbS1CSACN
   
   8.5” X 11” sheets, you will get two steelbooks out of one sheet, with some left over; not enough to cover another steelbook though. You will have to cut out to size what you need.
   
   
3. Command Damage Free Picture and Frame Hanging, Large Strips (30 Pairs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FEJ3OA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S-kJAbQ2KGK6D
   
   These are 16lbs rated. I placed four on each side of it (top and bottom) and it’s holding well.
   
   I will warn you, the board with the steelbooks is HEAVY.
   
   https://imgur.com/gallery/x2bFz
   
   This is one more photo to show how it looks.
   
   Good luck man!

Best thing I have used is blue tack that I got from amazon. It always cleans them really well for me.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F57ZPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hZXVDbFKDMGT4

I wanted a way to display the awesome steelbook art without taking up a lot of room. I looked at display racks, but they were expensive and bulky. Then I got to thinking about magnets. I did a quick test with a fridge magnet and sure enough the cases are magnetic! I went to amazon and bought these!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SOV4NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xbQBxbMGK2891

This stuff is amazing. I have a radio and 2 small computer speakers mounted to the underside of a shelf on my radio desk. It peels off clean too! Been up there for 5+ years now. Give it a shot!

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Heavy-Double-Mounting-Inches/dp/B019HT1U9E?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B019HT1U9E

No.... They both have issues recognizing with loud music or sounds playing. You get the same issues with the dot if your speaker is placed near it, or it's built-in speaker is turned up too high.

edit: Here's amazon's placement guide for alexa devices:
> Place your Alexa device in an ideal location

> Make sure your Alexa device is at least eight inches away from walls or other objects that may cause interference (such as microwave ovens or baby monitors).

> If your Alexa device is on the floor, move it to a higher location.

Echo requires more power to power the built-in speaker. They could have opted for USB c but that wasn't a standard when it came out. Google home also uses a proprietary ac adapter, and it came out this year. They also both don't have a 3.5mm because they were designed to be used with the built in speaker that actually sounds good.

Really neither is better than the other, they're designed for different purposes. One is for voice controlled, loud, high-fidelity music playing speaker in one package and another for a low cost have an echo in every room to control your house. (Gen 1 echo dot was a limited manufacturing run, so they limited it to existing echo users to buy. It's a higher quality build too. uses american TI SoC, has stereo speakers (ones from smartphones), has the volume ring from big sister echo, so it was more expensive as well.) (Gen2 is plastic, has buttons for volume control, has a really cheap mono speaker (one you find in a child's toy), uses chinese Mediatek SoC - this is why the price is so low.)

You might want to clean the microphones of the echo (not with compressed air, use something like blutack to remove the dust. be careful and don't use too much pressure. you don't want to get blutack stuck in the hole.), and also unplug and let it sit for a few minutes if you need to shout it at it in a quiet room. That's not normal.

> Once you get good enough, using push pins instead of staples to hold up a paper target on a cardboard backer is cheaper and more convenient (for me).

Locktite fun-tak works great too. http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-1087306-Loctite-2-Ounce-Mounting/dp/B001F57ZPW

Damn we’ll at least you fixed it. Next time just use blu-tack Loctite Fun-Tak Mounting Putty 2-Ounce (1087306) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F57ZPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YGk.Bb5CQJ4DF
It’s like really stiff putty that doesn’t come
apart easily.
I’ve owned my AirPods for almost 2 months and never had to clean them. I just clean my ears a lot more now and I don’t workout with mine. All of my wired EarPods would get clogged but I would just buy new ones. AirPods are too expensive too do that though so I just make sure my ears are clean.

Also you might want to get a case or a skin if you’re worried about ink or stains. I almost had the same thing happen in my work bag but I noticed the pen cap beforehand.

It was super simple! I bought these magnet sticker sheets from Amazon — one of the reviewers said they used them for a magnetic palette and that the hold was strong enough: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2SE5KA/

Then I emptied out an old pencil case, and cut the magnet to be the right size. Pressed it into the bottom, and voila!

Don't use the provided tape. Buy some like this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Permanent-Mounting-Tape-Inches/dp/B00347A8GC/ref=sr_1_18?crid=1L0TL2R82UIAJ&keywords=3m+double+sided+tape&qid=1554233502&s=gateway&sprefix=3m+%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-18

​

Or this one for extra strength:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Exterior-Mounting-Tape-Holds/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1L0TL2R82UIAJ&keywords=3m+double+sided+tape&qid=1554233502&s=gateway&sprefix=3m+%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-3

I love the Gorilla Glue double sided tape I use it to hold phone holders on my dash, and dash cams to windshield. Holds up well in hot summer and cold winter.


edit: I linked to the Light weight version, I am using the heavy duty version
heavy duty double sided tape

I use Poster Putty to hold things in place when i flip the board over to solder them into place: https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Reusable-Removable-Mounting-1436912/dp/B000BQMFEC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526412023&sr=8-3&keywords=poster+putty

I use the same board holder thingy you do, The two work well together. When the putty gets hot, it sticks to the components and be tedious to remove, but with sockets is never a problem.

How does it sound? thick phase? I just finished a Space Harp http://lectric-fx.com/product/spaceharp/ that also uses 3 OTA LM13700 chips. The Arcadia seems like a simpler build.

Get the 3M brand mounting tape. This is the exact solution I use for my magnetic strip. It works great. Here's a link.

Yep, use locktite [Puddy](Loctite Fun-Tak Mounting Putty 2-Ounce (1087306) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F57ZPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VmDvCbEK0X4A2) for earbuds works like a charm.

Yup! I use poster hanging putty (like this one from Loctite) to put into the grooves to clean out the gunk. It's sticky but not too sticky so it picks up the dirt and crud but doesn't leave residue or itself behind.

The dark marks from scratches and dirt are much harder. Prevention works best by using the putty to clean it out regularly as needed.

I haven't had to use it yet, but I hear people post this product for removing debris from AirPods. https://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-S050Q-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72

A clean toothbrush as well

Can't comment on Prelude or other connect, but I think BluTac/WhiteTac poster mounting puddy is the best bang for buck to manage the cubes. Aside from the significant cost, I find the after market mats ugly and tedious, so we use BluTac for all TM/Azul etc. Works a treat!

Note: I have seen some slightly oily spots left on walls (after several years), so I do not leave any of the BluTac stuck to the boards when cleaning and boxing the games up.

I use blue tack a lot of the time. It's reusable and holds fairly strong. I've been able to hang a marvel select spider man upside down with it.

I use Loctite Fun Tak to hold the models onto whatever I'm using as a base. I also use it to suspend my brushes *brush down to dry on the side of my desk. Stuff is awesome and a little goes a long way.

So after a quick google it turns out Blue Tac is an Australian only thing lol.



' Just ask at a store for that clay stuff you tack memos and pictures up with and they should know what ya mean.'



Also known as: Plasti-Tac, Fun - Tac or Clay Strips



https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-Blu-Tack-Reusable-Adhesive-Blue/dp/B001FGLX72/ref=pd_bbs_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1231643004&sr=8-2

Thanks. :) I use simple Blue Tack, leaves no stain cheap and reusable.

Bostik Blu-tack Original Mastic Putty Adhesive Non-toxic Blue 60g Ref 801103 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00I42EOJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GoJADb7DE3GAM

I got here late, but one of the handiest accessories that I've picked up for board gaming recently is some blu tack.

If you've never used it, it's basically a removable sticky putty which doesn't leave a residue or stick so strongly that items will be damaged. It's great for temporarily sticking things down. You can use it for sticking down folded boards so they lay flat. You can also use it for sticking down small boards which are light or slightly warped and move or spin easily. You can also stick cards to boards, if it's something that will stay there the whole game and interaction with the card (taking pieces on & off) will cause it to move around.

Gorilla is just a brand, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-6055001-Heavy-Mounting-Double-Sided/dp/B019HT1U9E

Most of their products really are quite good though.

I'll let you in on a little secret. Saved many a pretty thing in my house which is filled with cats:

https://smile.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-S050Q-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72

It won't save everything, but it helps a lot.

That looks great. One thing I use on mine is a piece of stick on magentic strip along the edge of the top tier. I can tie a dozen flies, and cement all the heads at once. Plus, it keeps them from getting knocked around.

I used this, two strips on each about 2 inches long. Holding well so far! I used pretty much the entire roll for all of these.

The Blood Rage models are plastic, not resin. I'd recommend getting primer from a hobby store like Michael's or Hobby Lobby. It should be a little cheaper if you get one of their 40-50% off coupons from their websites. This should be fine. As with any primer, you'll want to spray 1-2 thin coats, preferably when the air is dry (less than 50% humidity). You won't lose any detail that way.

As for the wash, you probably could get away with 1 of those bottles. You could either order 1 and then just order another (if you're ok waiting) when/if you run out, otherwise just order 2 right away. If you ever paint other models in the future, you'll use it.

Edit: I'd also recommend getting some Blue Tack to stick on the bottom of your models so you can stick them to some cardboard. It makes it easier to bulk-prime, and if you're just using a wash on them, you don't even have to remove them from the cardboard when you do that.

Should be pretty common, would be surprised if Wal-Mart doesn't carry it.

Here is an example of the tape on Amazon (not affiliated with the seller).

grab some $3 fun tac off amazon. works great.

I used something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SVG2CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uRWvDbFCCXECM

The magnets are 1/2 inch wide and I needed 1/4 inch so I cut it lengthwise whenever I needed it. Hope that helps!

My mother had both of her gen airpods go significantly quieter to literally no sound at all. Literally to the point where we were convinced that it was beyond repair. Then used Blu-Tack on both airpods and it literally goes inside the mesh and sticks to everything and gets everything out. To the point where it sounds like new. Ive been there and Blu-Tack was the solution. https://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-S050Q-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=blue+tack&qid=1571687327&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2SE5KA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its a metal door :)

http://i.imgur.com/812ZmTg.jpg

I usually turn everything i make into a magnet with those sheets, they work really well, but they do tend to fall off when the perler warps a bit, so i use glue to make sure they stay on.

Can you post an album of your setup and maybe under/around your desk? I put a lot of stuff under the desk that I dont nessicarly need to see all the time (USB hub, External hard drive)

Some general things that will help are Velcro Ties or for more permanant situations cable ties.
Also depending on the size or weight of your USB hub some mounting tape may help to keep it in place on your desk.

Personal suggestion, put packing tape (the thick clear stuff) on the backside of the poster in the corners and maybe a few other places, put a glob of blue sticky tack on the tape, and then mush it up on the wall. The tape on the poster will keep the tack from tearing the poster when you try and take it off.

Although, it would probably be better to take the poster to a copy shop or office (depot/max/whatever) shop and get it laminated. They might have a laminator big enough, call ahead first.

Yeah that's what I did with my Bernie bumper stickers. I ordered this one and it's still going strong 2 months later

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XNAHMC/

3M Command strips work great, they have a variety of configurations to hang just about anything. They are, however, not inexpensive.

We use poster putty to hang lighter paper things (like posters)

Walls

• 2x Monster LED Strip https://www.walmart.com/ip/MONSTER-MOOD-LIGHTING-KIT-LARGE/769116611
  
  
• 2x(Pack) Art3d Wall Panels https://www.amazon.com/Art3d-Textures-Panels-Diamond-Design/dp/B073NZ67LK
  
  
• Scotch Mounting Tape https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Outdoor-Mounting-60-inches-411P/dp/B0083K36KA
  
  
• 3 Light Floor Lamp https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-64-Track-Tree-Floor-Lamp-Black/12173440
  
  
• 3x Monster RGB Bulbs https://www.walmart.com/ip/MONSTER-MOOD-LIGHTING-KIT-LARGE/769116611
  
  Room
  
  
• Fluance Ai60 Speakers - White Walnut https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Performance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-*Turntable/dp/B07MKP345F
  
  
• Kanto Speaker Stands 26" https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-SP26PLW-Bookshelf-Speaker-Stands/dp/B07K4XHRYM
  
  
• noblechairs ICON Chair - Blue/Graphite Real Leather https://www.amazon.com/noblechairs-ICON-Gaming-Chair-*Midnight/dp/B072JKB516
  
  
• Basenji/Boston Terrier Dog
  
  
• Sherpa Dog Cuddle Throw https://www.amazon.com/Life-Comfort-Microfiber-Polyester-Ultimate/dp/B01JNMI5BQ
  
  
• Call It Spring 10.5 Brisbourne https://www.callitspring.com/us/en_US/men/footwear/casual-shoes/Brisbourne/p/11152086
  
  
• Sandles - Generic (Circa 2011)
  
  
• New Balance 10.5 (Circa 2009)
  
  
• Uni USB C SD/MicroSD Card Reader https://www.amazon.com/MicroSD-Thunderbolt-Adapter-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B07DJT5GPT
  
  Desk (Left)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 72x24 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA257224MC-Valencia-29-12-Inch-Credenza/dp/B00272N3KI
  
  
• XXL Mouse Mat - Map https://www.amazon.com/Cmhoo-Professional-Large-Computer-35-4x15-7x0-1IN/dp/B01F0XHA5E
  
  
• $150.00 US Cash
  
  
• Dell 24" Touch Screen https://www.amazon.com/Dell-P2418HT-23-8-Touch-Monitor/dp/B01NBX1Q2T
  
  
• Dell Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Business-Multimedia-Keyboard-KB522/dp/B00CBDEEG0
  
  
• Dell Mouse https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-MS111-P-Optical-BUTTON-Original/dp/B014LDW8BK*
  
  Desk (Center)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 60x30 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA216030MY-Valencia-2-Inch-Mahogany/dp/B00272N3DK
  
  
• 2x Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2 https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26
  
  
• 2x Raspberry Pi 3B https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-MS-004-00000024-Model-Board/dp/B01LPLPBS8
  
  
• Raspberry Pi 4 2GB https://www.canakit.com/raspberry-pi-4-2gb.html
  
  
• 1x(Pack) SanDisk 32GB MicroSD https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-MicroSD-Ultra-UHS-1-Memory/dp/B00CNYV942
  
  
• Samsung PRO 32GB MicroSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B98GXQT/ref=twister_B07DLWKFTM
  
  
• Mercedes Petronas Lanyard https://f1store.formula1.com/stores/f1/en/product/mercedes-amg-petronas-lanyard/224526
  
  
• 2x Pixio 27" 95Hz IPS HDR https://www.amazon.com/Display-FreeSync-Certified-Productivity-Warranty/dp/B07PZX54QC
  
  
• Viotek 49" 144Hz VA HDR https://www.amazon.com/VIOTEK-SUW49C-49-Inch-Super-Ultrawide/dp/B07L44N45F
  
  
• 3x DisplayPort Cable - 6ft https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Capshi-Braided-Laptop-Monitor/dp/B07GDBXWCQ
  
  
• Cable Matters DisplayPort Extension - 3ft https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Extension-Feet/dp/B00L1K1G74
  
  
• Cable Matters USB 3.0 Extension - 3ft https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7S1B4W
  
  
• 2x VIVO Gas Spring Monitor Arm https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Adjustable-Articulating-Counterbalance-STAND-*V001O/dp/B01NH0HTM5
  
  
• VIVO TV Desk Stand https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Universal-Screen-Table-STAND-TV00K/dp/B01CQ0E01Q
  
  
• ASUS ROG Mouse Mat XL https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Sheath-Gaming-Mouse-Pad/dp/B01G5ATZAE
  
  
• ROG Claymore Core Keyboard - Cherry MX Brown https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Claymore-Core-Cherry-Red/dp/B01NGTJBUA
  
  
• ROG Gladius II 12000 DPI Mouse https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Gladius-II-Origin-Acceleration/dp/B078YBG1VZ
  
  
• 2x Samsung Galaxy Tab E 9.6" https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Black-Wi-Fi-SM-T560NZKUXAC/dp/B0161UWH76
  
  
• 2x Walmart ONN 10" Tablet https://www.walmart.com/ip/Onn-10-1-16-GB-Android-Tablet-Bonus-20-off-Walmart-eBooks-Included/258891221
  
  
• 2x KABCON Tablet Stand https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Angle-Adjustable-Aluminum-Microsoft-Countertop/dp/B074J159V5
  
  
• 2x SmartStand Mobile Device Holder https://www.amazon.com/SmartStand-Mobile-Device-Holder-Phones/dp/B0036WTD5C
  
  
• Xbox Wireless Controller - Recon Tech Special Edition https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Special-Discontinued/dp/B06XT99YW5
  
  
• REMOTE (Yamaha Soundbar) https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-YAS-107BL-Built-Subwoofers-Bluetooth/dp/B071ZN5PSS
  
  
• REMOTE (Fluance Speakers) https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Performance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-Turntable/dp/B07MKP345F
  
  
• REMOTE (Roku Streaming Stick+) https://www.amazon.com/Roku-Streaming-Stick-HDR-Streaming-Long-range/dp/B075XLWML4
  
  
• REMOTE (Viotek 49" Monitor) https://www.amazon.com/VIOTEK-SUW49C-49-Inch-Super-Ultrawide/dp/B07L44N45F
  
  
• REMOTE (Samsung 42" 4k HDR TV) https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-43-class-led-nu6900-series-2160p-smart-4k-uhd-tv-with-hdr/6268402.p?skuId=6268402
  
  
• Fostex TH-X00 Ebony Headphones https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-fostex-tr-x00-ebony-headphones
  
  
• Gator Weighted Microphone Stand https://www.amazon.com/Gator-Frameworks-Weighted-Microphone-Dimensions/dp/B00BPELU68
  
  
• Blue Yeti Nano Microphone https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-Premium-Recording-Streaming/dp/B07DTTGZ7M
  
  Desk (Right)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 72x24 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA257224MC-Valencia-29-12-Inch-Credenza/dp/B00272N3KI
  
  
• MSI GS65 STEALTH-006 Gaming Laptop https://www.bestbuy.com/site/msi-15-6-gaming-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-rtx-2060-512gb-solid-state-drive-matte-black-with-gold-diamond-cut/6321439.p?skuId=6321439
  
  Computer
  
  
• AMD - Threadripper 1950X 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor
  
  
• AMD - RX5700 XT 50th Anniversary Edition
  
  
• NVIDIA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Founders Edition
  
  
• Corsair - H115i PRO 55.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
  
  
• Asus - ROG ZENITH EXTREME EATX TR4 Motherboard
  
  
• 2x G.Skill - TridentZ RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
  
  
• Intel - Optane 900P 480 GB PCI-E Solid State Drive
  
  
• Western Digital - SN750 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
  
  
• Phanteks - Enthoo EVOLV TG ATX Tower Anthracite Gray
  
  
• Corsair - HX Platinum 1200 W 80+ Platinum
  
  
• Red Sleeve Extension Power Supply Cable Kit https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Sleeve-Extension-Extra-Sleeved-PIN-Red/dp/B0719Q59YC
  
  
• (Software) Windows 10 LTSC
  
  
• (Software) GameGlass

Would you be able to mount your surge protector under the top of your desk with something like this? And route your wires through the hole in your desk for a cleaner look.

You could try installing the smartphone app, and upgrading the firmware but AFAIK you can't disable the Yi's G sensor.

You could also try using foam adhesive tape - 30lb high strength black Gorilla and isolating the dash cam/mount from the vibration in the first place.

This seems needless complex.

Why not skip the thumbtacks? You can just as easily trim the tape around the magnet and apply it directly to the measured points on the wall.

Or better yet, poster putty or something similar. It's cheaper, faster, and from my experience, non-damaging.

Loctite Fun-Tak Mounting Putty Has worked perfectly for me.

You can drill some holes or use the tape of the gods. This stuff is great to have around regardless.


Regarding fans, it is 4 channels not 4 fans, I'm about to put 12 onto mine.

mounting putty. It also works great for cleaning the case and lid.

For posters I think regular ol' blu-tack would work just fine.

I generally use mounting tape though. Probably overkill for posters. Looks like this. You can find them at pretty much any hardware store.

I just used this:

Heavy-Duty Exterior Mounting Tape, Holds 5 lb., 1"x60" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R8G4BbHZHE925

Some people also use a Velcro system so they can remove it if they want but this seemed cleaner and it's just as easy to take off with the tape but you'll need to put a new piece on if you do.

I haven't used this yet, but a friend recommended poster tack to block off non straight lines link

Invest in blu tack. It is gentler on paper crafts than clear tape.

Most modern cases have some sort of 2.5 inch drive mounts as well.

Also, mounting tape works just fine as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Permanent-Mounting-Tape-Inches/dp/B00347A8GC/

Get some Blu-tac; it's REALLY inexpensive and it as an excellent vibration insulator. Prevents feedback.

https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-Blu-Tack-Adhesive-801103/dp/B00I42EOJE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473996518&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=blu+tac+3m

A quick Google search turned up this article from ADL written following a 2015 Supreme Court decision about desperate impact and fair housing.

ADL put together this guide on the subject, it says

>For residents whose display of symbols is purely decorative, application of such a rule [banning the display any religious or secular symbol] does not violate the law. For a Jewish person who observes this religious practice, however, the rule means that he or she cannot buy, rent or remain in the property. This detrimental effect on Jewish residents, called “disparate impact,” also violates the Fair Housing Act.


So VA law, while relevant, may or may not protect you; however federal law apparently does.

The landlord may prohibit nails in a doorframe (especially a metal one) but Scotch Outdoor Mounting Tape is a secure and non-destructive option.

i've been using these :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4BV/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7VCYFA/

Let me tell the with gorilla stuff i do NOT doubt bit that it holds 30lbs, the bent ATX case bottom i jacked up trying to pry an SSD off of would be a testament, i'm lucky i didn't break the SSD or bend it's casing.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxpZHHJ8SOpRUVFJdEhfRl9IenM/view?usp=sharing

the 2 in the front and the 2 above the FBDIMMS, 1 stuck to the other and that one stuck to the case, holds a perfect 90 degree angle.

I suppose you could remove the packaging between the shades (after removing them). Then gluing down or using magnetic stickers. I think it would make a beautiful custom palette.

You could use these:
https://www.amazon.com/10-Adhesive-Magnetic-Sheets-Magnet/dp/B004SOV4NQ

I bought some 3M tape off of Amazon, to mount a sign onto brick. It sticks like crazy. I don't see why this couldn't work for you. These new doorbells aren't very heavy. Just try to clean the surface with soap and water before using the tape.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4BV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I haven't used it but have heard good things about Blu-Tack: https://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-060968-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72

Here's the exact stuff I used. It's about twice as thick as the lightstrip but it's much better than any foam tape I've tried.

Cheapo solution that I actually use more than my helping hands is just a glob or two of blue tack Just stick whatever you're working on to the putty.

Sorry, yeah tape, but some tape is hard to get off in the end so you can also use some of that Command adhesive solution that they use for frames, should not damage the speakers. Alternatively I personally just used Blu Tack.

We recommend using the 3M or Scotch indoor outdoor Mounting Tape. It's gray with a red peel off backing that you can cut to fit. It can be found at Walmart or your local hardware stores. Below is a link to the tape from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-4011-Exterior-Mounting/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498474461&sr=8-1&keywords=3M+Scotch+4011+Exterior+Mounting+Tape%2C+1+in+x+60+in

Foam tape is the real hero here.

So far I've had luck with using squares I've cut from Adhesive Magnetized Sheets to hold plastic infantry to my metal-bottomed toolkit. I add a spot of white glue to help out the magnetic sheet adhesive.

sheets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SOV4NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you can, grab some poster putty at an office supply store. It'll hold the big gear steady. Have fun!

Sticky Tak. That soft blue stuff you can find in the office supplies aisles. Test it on a small part of the poster, to make sure it won't cause damage. I've found for many paper materials I've used it to hang things, it hasn't caused any damage yet.

I use these lights mounted with this tape along the bottom of the walls (~4" gap between the floor and the floorboards). They're quite bright on the white setting, and underlighting is far less annoying than overheads, since it isn't shining in your eyes while you're on the bench. End result looks like this

For the mounting of the Elac B6, which I have a set, I am using these stands:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00092HW9G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and then used blu-tack for adhesive for the speakers, and the speaker stand was knocked over by my mother's dogs which the speaker successfully stayed on the stand.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FGLX72/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The power strip is attached with this tape. I used cable clips similar to these but replaced the crappy tape that comes on them with the same stuff I used for the power strip. The ones I actually used I found at Ace Hardware. All of the power bricks are attached with Velcro so that they can be easily removed. I also used these cable ties so, again, everything can be easily removed. I was able to pick it all up at Ace Hardware but if you're not near one of those I'm sure Homedepot or any hardware store should carry most of this stuff. Hope this helps!

https://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-060968-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72

He's not talking about Tic-Tacs or metal pin "Tacks" LOL

Most commercially available stands will have 3M or similar two-sided adhesive. I use Blu Tack on mine, and it takes a surprising amount of force to dislodge the cabinets once they've settled. That's a US link, but I'm sure you can find it in Europe.

While I don't necessarily know what's available in your market, I will add that you should take precise measurements before buying anything. If those monitors aren't at ear-level, your sound is likely to be compromised.

I should have just put the link in my original comment... I'm lazy :P

Here ya go... It's even cheaper than when I got mine. Now $3.33 with free shipping. It is NOT a high quality dock, but it definitely works with a (larger) case on the phone. I used some 3M double sided tape. This tape is STUPID strong, and has a variety of uses. I always have a roll in my tool kit.

How much clearance do you need?

You can use magnetic tape to secure the glass panel to the case. The tape I linked is 2mm thick so you can get additional 4mm by using this tape on the glass and the case. It likely wouldn't be as secure as the original mounting mechanism. but it should be fine if you are not moving the case around.

Fun Tak

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F57ZPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_OZjLzbKW91QVH

https://youtu.be/arw-OUhx9Rw

adhesive backed magnetic sheets, a straight edge, and x-acto knife are all you really need.

if you have a cutting mat or a paper trimmer, it's a bit easier to keep them square.

This is what I use. You can buy it at pretty much any office supply store, hobby lobby, wal-mart, etc. https://www.amazon.com/10-Adhesive-Magnetic-Sheets-Magnet/dp/B004SOV4NQ

Here are some techniques that other customers have used and had some success with.

A. Use a 2" long peace of Monofilament fishing line or dental floss as a saw to cut the 2-sided tape. Place the line between the device and the surface it is stuck to, and saw as you pull the line across the surface.

B. Using a dull butter knife by prying at the corner of the device and slowly work your way around the device while prying a little at a time.

abode does not sell the two sided tape so we recommend using the 3M or Scotch indoor-outdoor Mounting Tape, it is gray with a red peel off backing and you can cut to fit. Found at Walmart and your local hardware stores.

Link to the tape of choice:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-4011-Exterior-Mounting/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498474461&sr=8-1&keywords=3M+Scotch+4011+Exterior+Mounting+Tape%2C+1+in+x+60+in

Is this one good?

Never done it, but I would try something like a padded laptop tray and use some poster putty for the cards to keep them in place.

Blu-Tack is what you need. This is pretty much exactly what it's designed for.

What 3m tape did you use? 3m makes a huge variety of different thickness and stickiness.

I would bet money you weren't using the 4011 kind. This stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Exterior-Mounting-1-Inch-60-Inch/dp/B00004Z4BV

Use appropriate tape and you should be fine.

You're supposed to use a cleat for mounting heavy things to drywall. These ones are great, if you're cool with waiting on shipping.

Failing that, mounting tape. Holds 1lb per 2in of tape, so get two rolls.

Wilson Advantage Tennis Racquet Over Grip . The grip won't stay on by itself so you will need double sided adhesive of some sort. On this mouse I went with Gorilla double sized tape. The double sided gorilla tape is pretty thick. use Duck Brand Double-Sided Duct Tape if you wanted the thinnest possible tape with insane grip.

What about something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-16-Pairs-PH204-16ES/dp/B073XS3CHV?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

Or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Heavy-Double-Mounting-Inches/dp/B019HT1U9E

Or Hot glue?

this is where I saw the idea:

• https://youtu.be/Itd_ETtRKjM?t=307
  
  the tape I told you:
  
• 3M Scotch 4011 Exterior Mounting Tape, 1 in x 60 in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ngr2AbW1R8XNH
  
  If you can find either of the products, it should work :)

I got some kind of command heavy duty roll with no non sticky parts, rated up to 5lbs for huge pictures. Good to know that it works with the actual strips through.

(Edit: this)

A little bit of This

A little bit of That

A few of These

Only one of These

And if you're feelin' frisky, one of These

Blu-tack in a few places on the bottom of the base will stick it to a desk nicely, and shouldn't leave any permanent marks on the desk or the stick.

Yep. Although this was covering up the walls of my cube that are made for push pins. I'd think for real walls you could get that poster putty stuff so that it won't hurt the walls or anything.

the good stuff

Good to know, I'll just go to a cabinet store soon, and this the 3m tape?

3M Scotch 4011 Exterior Mounting Tape, 1 in x 60 in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ju0pzb6J6NH24

Like these? http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Exterior-Mounting-1-Inch-60-Inch/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453050854&sr=1-1&keywords=Scotch+Exterior+Mounting+Tape%2C+1-Inch+by+60-Inch

You can get flat magnetic tape, that might work? Or something like this https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Sheets-Adhesive-mil-Magnet/dp/B003XNAHMC/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1497610008&sr=8-16&keywords=magnetic+tape

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Fun-Tak-Mounting-2-Ounce-1087306/dp/B001F57ZPW

Not sure on the strength with figures

This stuff. I use it a lot at work for our safety posters.

http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Poster-Reusable-Adhesive-E1531/dp/B000BKQDB4

(Also, if you do go the spraymount route, I would spray the foam board, not the poster. This way the sticky is on the board and the poster reamains relatively clean.)

Forgot your other question! It’s actually sticky tack like from the office supply section that would be for putting up posters and such. Loctite Fun-Tak Mounting Putty 2-Ounce (1087306) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F57ZPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t-tQBbKF8MKKT I use it to stick minis to pop bottles so I can spray paint them to prime them.

Not entering, but I strongly recommend taking blu tack to hang stuff with...

I guarantee this will not fail you.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Mounting-5-Inch-75-Inch/dp/B00004Z498/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1417468989&sr=8-7&keywords=double+sided+tape

Double sided tape failed me too until I bought this one. It's been over a month and it hasn't fallen yet. It's still really solid.

Gorilla 6065001 Tough & Clear Mounting Tape, Double-Sided, 1" x 60", Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXVG9FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C3laBbWV649ZY

I just use Scotch indoor mounting tape and attach them straight to a wall. Works very well on most of my patches, although a few stubborn ones from my SpaceX patch collection keep falling off every few weeks or months. If they keep falling, just add more tape to cover a greater percentage of the backing surface area. Other non-SpaceX patches don't seem to fall off as easily, it's something about the iron-on backing material SpaceX uses which doesn't like adhering well to the tape.

No, it's not messy, it's not like gum, it's made to be reusable. It never really dries out but it's not very sticky. The one I have isn't even actually blue, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CEMCXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qceBbVGTJTQ3

I put at least one of these at each bedside, 2 in the master, one in the living room and mounted it with this to keep it from walking away. Also if an outlet was not easily accessible at the the bedside I put in an extension so there was. Lot of people use CPAP machines now. Got tons on compliments on the setup.

The 3M Permanent Mounting Tape is great stuff. I used it to reapply molding that had fallen off the outside of my car door, and it has held up for years through New Jersey winters and Arizona summers.

Scotch Clear 3M Mounting Tape
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gChwzbA01A1JK

Tip for people trying to do this themselves: use Blu-Tack to try out whatever positioning you want before you go crazy with superglue. It's a putty that acts as a pressure-based, reusable adhesive and will be fine for testing. You can then finalize with glue when you're ready/when you're sure you really want magnets in your cube.

FYI here's 10 sheets for $12.70 or 25 sheets for slightly less ... just in case you're looking

Something like this?

I'd recommend this stuff rather than any sort of velcro.

I recommend poster tack, a small disk of it under the base can resist those mild table bumps. http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Poster-Reusable-Adhesive-E1531/dp/B000BKQDB4 -Q.

poster tack.

stuff like this

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Poster-Tack-Reusable-Ounces/dp/B000BKQDB4

Blu tack. It's like blue putty. You make 4 or 5 similarly sized balls, and put them under the speaker.

Blu-Tack Reusable Adhesive 75g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FGLX72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jmIHAb5CSBAKP

Recommend using Blu Tack to hold the speakers on the stands: https://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-060968-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72/ref=pd_bxgy_196_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001FGLX72&pd_rd_r=T8DVQH7MR5F6T8T55JWY&pd_rd_w=y4G37&pd_rd_wg=p7EBL&psc=1&refRID=T8DVQH7MR5F6T8T55JWY

You can use double sided tape like this, or you can opt for removable hooks and put up canvas pictures.

I recently started using Scotch Indoor Mounting Tape, 1-Inch x 125-Inches, 1-Roll (314P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007P5G8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2K4ozbBQQ3846 and I've been extremely happy with the hold on heavier metal figs. I have to pop the base off with a knife, but the mini stays put.