(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best internal usb port cards

I would definitely avoid that hub. With 7 external ports the internal design will be two USB host controllers daisy chained together so 4 of those ports will at a minimum have to go through 3 host controllers to send data back to the PC. Very risky and prone to issues which will be explained below.

Apologies for the wall of text but it is all quite important to explain why USB hubs are not the best idea for a number of reasons. Only go the hub route if you have no other choice like you have a laptop and a PCI card if not an option. If you have a desktop and free PCI slots then grab one of the PCI cards listed at the end of this post.

USB 3.0 Hubs

The main concern with hubs is that there is an additional USB controller in the chain and if one of those controllers is not compatible then you might have tracking issues. The issue with compatibility is VR needs low latency and high bandwidth which is required for good tracking.

So you have something like this using a hub.

PC -> PCI Bus -> USB Controller -> Hub -> USB Controller -> Sensor.

I put together this image on the weekend to explain it to someone else - https://imgur.com/jI6Istl

If anything in that chain is sub standard you have issues. If you have good USB Controllers in that chain you wont see issues. Just remember a quality hub is only as good as the USB port on your PC you plug it into.

It is also recommended to get a powered USB hub if you have to go the hub route. People sometimes encounter not just a bandwidth/latency bottleneck but a power bottleneck. Importantly some PC USB ports can't push out enough power to power all the devices plugged into the hub. Get a powered hub to avoid this possibility.

Below are two brands Anker and Amazon Basics which are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift. The 7 port one will have daisy chained USB controllers internally but people have recommended it so they must be good quality.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

or

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Adapter-Devices/dp/B00PBZX0OM


PCI Cards

Here are the cards that Oculus have recommended (I have personally tested the top two cards) .The blog posts at the end of this post might clear up why hubs are hit and miss for some people due to data/latency bottlenecks that might occur.

StarTek 2 port card (1 ASMedia controller) – Cheaper StarTek option that could be used for 2 sensors or a sensor and headset.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HT6K3Q

Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 Fresco controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors as it has daisy chained controllers in the design.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

Use the Inatek for your two front facing cameras and nothing else. Plug your third or fourth USB 2.0 camera and Rift HMD into your motherboard.

Supported StarTek 4 port card (2 Controllers) – Optional middle tier PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to two Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZE9VK

Supported StarTek 4 port card (4 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to four Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

Both 4 port StarTek cards are pricey and a bit more than is actually required. You could achieve the same thing with 2x four port Inatek cards.

More reading for why USB controllers are important and how you should connect sensors

Oculus put together some blog posts last year explaining best practices. Parts 2 and 3 of Oculus tracking posts explain the USB subsystems and how to get the best config.

• Part 1: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-tips-for-setting-up-a-killer-vr-room/
  
• Part 2: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/
  
• Part 3: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-identifying-host-controllers/
  
• Part 4: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-extra-equipment/
  
  Finally here is my setup and the placement of USB devices amongst all the USB controllers. https://imgur.com/a/fqgRP5p

Looks like if you trade in your tray and move up to 32GB of RAM you'll be spending about $1000-$2000 to go to a 12 core box. If you get on eBay you can probably do better. Whole 12c systems probably go for under $2000 at this point.

Perhaps the more important thing to look at is the compatibility table. This is the oldest MacPro supported by MacOS today. No one knows when, but at some point Apple is going to stop making updates for the towers. When they do Avid and Adobe will be close behind.

5 years after release Apple start to consider hardware vintage, and the 2010 MacPro has crossed that threshold. The good news is the 2012 MacPro largely shares the architecture of the 2010 and was on sale through much of 2013, but the end of support is worth considering at this point. I think you'll see support through 2018 since they're basically the same as the 2012 towers that were sold through most of 2013. After 2018 you're probably out of luck.

Keep software support in mind as you consider spending money on an aging system. Sometimes the math doesn't check out.

---

In your shoes I'd go for an SSD boot, a USB3 PCI card, 24-32GB of RAM and a GTX970 to be a good investment for Adobe use. Also start saving up for a bigger upgrade.

Well let's look at the chips first. It's a bit confusing. The ASMedia 1142 is for type A/5 Gbps ports. However, it looks like the cards with 1 type C and 1 type A also use the 1142. The ASMedia 2142 is for type C 10Gbps. They both seem to come on cards designed for a PCIe x4 slot.

Those chips control 2 ports each and if you got a card with a 2142 you would need type C to type A adapters as well. The 1142 has great performance so I wouldn't necessarily avoid it even though the cards are older, since you just need type A connectivity.

So if you want the newest and best and money isn't so important, I would get a 2142-based card with two type C, and get Type C to Type A adapters. Such as:

https://www.amazon.com/Ableconn-PUSB31P2A-2-Port-Express-Adapter/dp/B07595W7TF/

and:

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Adapter-Hi-speed-Black/dp/B01EL4PVFE/

If you want to keep it simple and get a card with two Type A, something like:

https://www.amazon.com/Ableconn-PUSB31P2A-2-Port-Express-Adapter/dp/B010PNUALA/

Also note that they suggest using the built in Windows drivers and not installing the ASMedia driver, for UASP support. This may not be true with subsequent updates to their driver.

Hope that helps some. You may want to search dedicated VR forums as this has certainly come up before. You might want to try comparable ASMedia cards from lower priced manufacturers than Ableconn, that's up to you.

Another Update:

I got my PCI USB C thing https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRSTZXX/ and my lightning to USB C cables https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FSRJC73/

It 'works' but ... it is buggy. It seems to work best with just the default windows drivers (windows 10 i5 2500k reviews say amd cpus have issues) but it is still buggy.The only way for me to make it work although it works 100% of the time when I do is to plug the cable in --> power down the ipad --> power the ipad back on

If I ever unplug the ipad I need to repeat this process but it charges so fuck it.

Amusingly enough the USB 3.1 port seems to work as well but I'm opting to just keep using the usb C port.

I'm going to blame apple and their fuckery with drivers ect but fuck it it works this is good enough for for as long as I need this setup. Ideally a proper monitor whenever I have the space for one would be much better.

Well google explorers I hope that somebody was helped by this and I save some people money.


Also not sure if I mentioned it but my thinkpad x240's usb 3.0 charging port works flawlessly and even better than this damn USBC thing lmao

Order some wall mounts (generic tripod thread - tons of amazon) - a USB 3.0 Extension cable for each sensor (5M Cable Matters active model for $16 works great) and you'll be good. This will allow you to mount your two sensors in opposing corners for Roomscale tracking - provided your room is of adequate size.

You can extend the rift's own cable(s) with a 6ft HDMI extension cable, and 6ft passive USB 3.0 extension cable. Anything beyond that will likely give you problems. Get some velcro straps to tie both of those extensions together and it'll double as a breakaway cable were you to tug on it too hard.

Maybe consider grabbing an add-in PCI-E USB 3.0 card. I ordered this Startech.com USB 3.1 card for $35 because USB 3.1 controllers can handle 10Gbps of throughput, which theoretically means both of these ports should be able to run at the full 5Gbps 3.0 mode, so it could handle both sensors with ease.The amazon reviews have some Rift users implying it works great.

Also - you'll get Robo Recall for free, it's a great action game to get started in. It'll set the bar pretty high for you - but it's a very comfortable (and often intense!) experience.

This site has a decent variety of beginner FPGA tutorials that would probably be interesting: https://www.fpga4fun.com

I would absolutely not recommend trying to use a bitcoin miner on an FPGA for a couple of reasons:

1. It's going to be very difficult for a beginner (or even an intermediate) hardware designer to be able to jump in and understand how this whole thing works and try and change things in it. If you actually want to learn how to design hardware on an FPGA, it's much better to start slow and learn the fundamentals of design than to jump in the deep end.
   
   
2. Mining bitcoin on an FPGA is not competitive anymore, especially on a small FPGA like this one. For instance, when I tried it on a DE0-nano (which is a larger and faster FPGA than this one), I got 9-10 MH/s. Compare this to a miner I found on amazon which costs $45 and can get 15GH/s. This miner is on the very low end of bitcoin miners, and yet it gets 1000x the hash rate over my FPGA for a lower price (the DE0 now goes for around $70 I think). Suffice it to say, you have no hope of making money with this device.
   
   
3. The FPGA targeted by the link you posted has several times more LEs than your FPGA, so you will have to port the design to the smaller FPGA. As discussed in point 1, this won't be easy, especially for a beginner.
   
   In short, I recommend learning FPGAs by starting small and working your way up. And (I know this is going to be hard, but it will help) try to resist the urge to test everything on the device. Unlike writing code on a desktop or even a microcontroller where you can open a debugger, debugging an FPGA is like working with a black box, in that it's really difficult to get a good idea of what's going on inside it. Instead, before your design ever goes on the FPGA, you really should simulate it using something like Icarus Verilog or Verilator or even modelsim to find the bugs in your design, and only when you're sure it will actually work, put it on an FPGA. I recommend checking out zipcpu's blog where he gives examples of how to simulate a design effectively. My life would have been so much easier if someone had told me this when I was first starting.

It's not unreasonable... although I would first try and see if you can get your current setup working with the new video card... it should be pretty straight forward and if your current build can work with the new hardware it'll make switching back and forth much easier... even if your new vanilla install goes perfectly right away, a clean install can take awhile to get everything back up and running the way you like.

Another suggestion (if you have 5.25" drive bay) is to get a drive switcher this will allow you to physically disconnect power to all your drives... so you just shutdown, turn off the ones on your current system, turn on the new one to tinker, and then boot up again. Your known working system is safe. (I also use it for OS upgrades or if I wanted to boot Windows)

Ok, so the issue with that Icy Dock you've linked is twofold:

First, it's meant to occupy a 5.25" slot in your case and face outward. While you may have the internal space for it, it looks like the faceplate on that case would prevent it from being accessible externally, which is the point of those types of add-ins.

Secondly, those are all 2.5" drive slots. GL getting 8TB drives in that form factor. :)

However, if going external is an option, something like this OWC coupled with this USB-C card could work very nicely for your needs. USB-C should have plenty of throughput for transcoding.

I just ordered one of these Click Here for my 5,1 and a hub while shopping for a USB 3.0 card. I did have the Inateck card installed in a 3,1 a couple of years ago and it worked fine. But I'm curious to see if there is any speed boost going to 3.1 using this cheap card. The reviews look fairly positive for those that are using it in their cMP machines. I'll do a review once I get some time in with it. Seems to good to be true for $25 for 10Gbps. I'm also looking at a 3.1 enclosure for a NVMe drive if anyone has any recommendations.

For the sound card, I did not include it as I am not an expert (just know that M-audio and Terratec are good brands) and because pcpartpicker does not have 'real' audio cards. I saved you $200 for it and urge you to go to your nearest audio store with this budget where knowledgeable people will be happy to help you. Firewire is also not included on motherboards anymore, and you'll have to buy something like this (again, not on PC part picker).

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $279.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI H97 Guard-Pro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Newegg
Memory | PNY XLR8 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $127.18 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $94.99 @ NCIX US
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card | $254.99 @ NCIX US
Case | BitFenix Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $39.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.98 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $992.10
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-08 06:55 EST-0500 |

Core i7 will be useful for demanding audio applications, I'm a bit less sure you need 16GB of RAM, but as the i7 will allow you to run a lot of things at the same time I'd prefer to be safe. Concerning gaming, the R9 290 can handle anything current in 1080p. If you find a cheaper sound card, you may want to go for more storage, or an SSD to install your programs (go for crucial or Samsung). Tell me if you need something really different, i'll try to find another compromise.

Would this work? Or is there a certain one you would recommend?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F3DM6C/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000F9Q3PM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0MMQNCVZ19FE7WZEV8HH
I mean I guess with this whole build, if you were getting it for yourself, what would be your number one concern? (ex: maybe you wanted a SSD or a better mobo).

Thanks again, this is extremely helpful

So it worked...

I followed the basic concepts described here: http://www.malos-ojos.com/?p=823

But I used a slightly different EEPROM reader: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1EU9LG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1EU9LG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a Mac Book Pro so I had to find a driver for the reader. For that I used ch341eeprom found here: https://github.com/command-tab/ch341eeprom

I downloaded the ch341eeprom package from github link above and unzipped the contents, then from MacOS Terminal...

>mac-os-prompt$ cd ch341eeprom-master/
>
>mac-os-prompt$ brew install libusb
>
>mac-os-prompt$ brew link --overwrite libusb
>
>mac-os-prompt$ ./ch341eeprom
>
>ch341eeprom - an i2c EEPROM programming tool for the WCH CH341a IC
>
>Version 0.5 copyright (c) 2011 asbokid ballymunboy@gmail.com
>
>This program comes with absolutely no warranty; This is free software,
>
>and you are welcome to redistribute it under certain conditions:
>
>GNU GPL v3 License: http://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html
>
>Usage:
>
>-h, --help display this text
>
>-v, --verbose verbose output
>
>-d, --debug debug output
>
>-s, --size size of EEPROM {24c01|24c02|24c04|24c08|24c16|24c32|24c64|24c128|24c256|24c512|24c1024}
>
>-p, --speed i2c speed (low|fast|high) if different than standard which is default
>
>-e, --erase erase EEPROM (fill with 0xff)
>
>-w, --write <filename> write EEPROM with image from filename
>
>-r, --read <filename> read EEPROM and save image to filename
>
>mac-os-prompt$ ./ch341eeprom -v -s 24c256 -r cpi_rom.bin

(I used 24c256 b/c this is the type of EEPROM chip used for the Concord 4 https://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/24LC256 this wrote the contents from the chip to a file named cpi_rom.bin)

>Searching USB buses for WCH CH341a i2c EEPROM programmer [1a86:5512]
>
>Found [1a86:5512] as device [26] on USB bus [20]
>
>Opened device [1a86:5512]
>
>libusb: info [darwin_claim_interface] no interface found; setting configuration: 1
>
>Claimed device interface []
>
>Device reported its revision [4.03]
>
>Configured USB device with vendor ID: 1a86 product ID: 5512
>
>Set i2c bus speed to [100kHz]
>
>Read [32768] bytes from [24c256] EEPROM
>
>Wrote [32768] bytes to file [cpi_rom.bin]
>
>Closed USB device

Then I downloaded the following Hex Editor: http://www.suavetech.com/0xed/

I opened the cpi_rom.bin file using the 0xed Hex Editor app. Then I read the values for the following offsets.

System Master Code: 0x03E2 - 0x03E3

Installer Code: 0x03E5 - 0x03E6

Dealer Code: 0x16F2 - 0x16F3

Hope this helps others.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-PCI-Card-USB/dp/B071DFQ6TW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518789016&sr=1-1&keywords=PEXUSB314A2V&dpID=51YC0J0B4BL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

It's definitely pricey, but the peace of mind knowing it just works is such a nice thing to not worry about.

Generally you don't want more than two sensors per controller, else you'll exceed the bandwidth the controller can carry. You want a maximum of two on a 3.0 controller, and a maximum of one on a 2.0 controller. If you're running three sensors on one controller, that is your issue, most likely. Pop that USB card in and plug two of the sensors into that instead, tell us how that works. If your native controller is 3.0, don't worry about putting your third on 2.0, use the laptop's native 3.0 controller for it.

The older PC may not have had USB 3.0 at all, and if your newer machines are trying to run three sensors through one controller, they'll both share the bandwidth problem.

If you can afford it, this one (or one like it) is optimal: https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-4-Port-Windows-Compatible/dp/B00GRGCV2G/

That has a separate controller for each individual port. You can plug a sensor into all four without a hitch. Some have posted that sensors work better with a dedicated controller, even if a controller can still handle two 'well enough'. I don't know how true that is.

Would you be happy with just using the rear panel USB? You have 2xUSB3.0 on the back plus 2xUSB2.0.

If you want more external USB2.0 ports (using your remaining internal headers) then you can buy a USB2.0 panel that gets mounted in a motherboard slot case bracket. I find that internal USB2.0 headers are useful for devices like coolers and fan controllers though.

https://www.amazon.com/USB-4-Port-Bracket-Dual-Headers/dp/B0027YYMQA

Get your self one of these and this. Gives yourself 4 clean powered USB 2.0 ports. A lot of the software issues with the stick can be fixed with this.

If the stick is hard to move with no spring, don't wait, don't think, don't ask, just return it for a new one. It should be buttery smooth.

I love mine, cant stop telling people to get one.

If the throttle is gummy on the lowest setting; wait, wiggle it, work it some, it smooths out, then gets gummy again, then smooths out, for up to a month.

Its big, all the HOTAS are, there is a guy out there on the internets printing a custom 3d thingy that can help with your thumb not reaching the top of the stick. Cant find it, best i can do

/u/Dcourtwreck is right. You want a FireWire cable (Sony calls it iLink). If your computer doesn't have a FireWire port (as most don't these days), you can get a cheap FireWire adapter.

I personally use this one and it's fine on both Windows and MacOS.

Are you sure that's a USB port? Here's a small FireWire cable, corresponding port...

If you list the make/model of your camcorder, I'm sure someone here, myself included, would be happy to confirm this.

I purchased this on Amazon yesterday and it just arrived a few hours ago. It was exactly what I needed! Now I have all 3x sensors including my Rift running on USB 3.0 without any warnings or issues!

Edit: And the best part, it doesn't require external power so my build still looks clean. My previous card was a dud so I requested a refund and bought Just Fab's instead.

why 6100? thats chip is pretty old. go g4560 for cheaper and same performance or spend a bit more for a i5 7400.

Same with the 750ti, old card. get a 1050 or 1030. THey will work fine in a hackintosh.

Id ge ta 3.5 hdd, there cheaper and faster.

Psu seems a bit pricey for what it is, a cx450 would be a bit better and cheaper.

If you want firewire, get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-FireWire-1394a-Components-RC-504/dp/B004F3DM6C

Wifi this would work, https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GC-WB11ACD-I-Wireless-Express-Components/dp/B0742RG2MX/ref=sr_1_18?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1520012083&sr=1-18&keywords=wifi+card

but on your board you can use the gpu and one of these card unless you find a different board. This is a bit more and would fit both cards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4OM9R4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=tonymacx86com-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073W9KCFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527115549&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pci+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=51-opCYTp1L&ref=plSrch

I have 6 in total on various rigs running. I also run ubit risers, 170 of them to be exact and have had great luck.

Also I am no way affiliated with ubit just have had a good experience with their stuff.

Any idea if the bios chip is accessible by any means? If it's on the bottom and relatively easy to access you can flash it using a USB adapter system. I ended up buying one for my tech kit when a server of mine failed a bios update too. It works like a charm and since it sounds like the bios is already corrupted you don't have any further risk.

Here's an Amazon link to the programmer I bought: Gikfun USB Programmer CH341A

And here's a link for the adapter you'll also need, although research and make sure it's the same chip type: Signstek SOIC8 SOP8 Flash Chip IC Test Clips Socket Adapter Programmer BIOS

EDIT: Hyperlinked words to shorten post.

Thanks! I had to get that poseidon keyboard to go with it haha and here is the fan controller I'm putting in the front... Mixed reviews, but I'm hoping it does OK...

http://www.amazon.com/KingWin-Multi-Function-Controller-Cooling-FPX-003/dp/B00DPA0QRE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1394273475&sr=8-4&keywords=fan+controller

Those probably work. You want alternative mode ideally.

[Upgraded] Anker Premium USB-C Mini-Dock with 2 USB 3.0 Ports, 4K HDMI Port, SD Card Port, Ethernet Port, and a USB-C Input Port for Macbook, Chromebook, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072F2M874/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GfP.zbMS0S3WV works great with my pixelbook

It depends on the age and features of your motherboard.

Re-soldering is an option, if it’s directly mounted on the backplane (the rectangular window where USB, integrated audio jacks, integrated video ports, etc.)

If you’ve broken something in a port mounted elsewhere in the chassis, chances are something like https://www.amazon.com/RIITOP-Female-Connector-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01KJPUI5W/ would work.

There are also PCI-e cards like https://www.amazon.com/FebSmart-Self-Powered-Technology-No-Additional-FS-U2-Pro/dp/B071P5C6CS/ but it’s possible they won’t work properly before Windows is loaded.

Since you said it’s the motherboard side for you specifically, if you don’t have another 3.0 port on the motherboard, it will be soldering, or the PCI-e expansion card, (assuming you aren’t using a super slim chassis)

If your laptop in question has a thunderbolt 3 port, there is a very good chance you could get it to work with an external pci enclosure.

If not your probably screwed.

Some people have also thought about using the Mini PCI-e slot on laptops and convert it to normal PCI-E 2 1X with something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Express-Extension-Adapter-Riser/dp/B01FVPITN8

That is still up in the air if it will work or not. Even if it does work you would still have to do some modding on the laptop as most laptop are not built to have a cable sticking out of them from the mpci slot is built onto the motherboard. Not really a viable solution in my opinion.

Thanks for the reply. I should add that if I boot a Win10 VM everything works perfectly. So are you suggesting that I should be looking at a macOS USB speed issue? This is the card I used https://amzn.to/2QR2dxf .

I installed a USB-C card in my external PCIe box and it works great; you're good to go 👍

Not fans, fan controllers come with sensors. Like this for example.

The only information that can be passed through the motherboard fan pins is PWM information (RPMs).

There are some usb temperature sensors, usually for green houses. They don't cost a lot, but it isn't really different from having a real thermometer or a "weather station" near your case. I imagine that they come with their own software though - I don't think that you'll be able to integrate them say to a hwinfo panel.

Judging by your rig though, it's hard to imagine the ambient temperature readings to be really different from inside the case. You don't have any part that actively dissipates heat inside the case, so the temperature readings from the motherboard would be very close to true ambient temperatures. (I think the case temp sensor on the gigabytes is the TMPIN2)

Edit: Yea, that's the one

To your idea about the extermal fans: ever thought about just getting like 1 12V Molex wall plug like this one and just power a Fan controller like a 5.25" bay controller where you might add temperature sensors aswell? With that you dont have to use a whole big psu to power them.

To be sure the software running from one drive can't read the other drive, encryption is sufficient. To be sure it can't destroy data you'd need to switch it off physically with something like this https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Optimized-Controls-Provide-Longevity/dp/B00TZR3E70

That's interesting that the startech doesn't work for you - I have this one and it works great with my OG odyssey.

Yeah, I had an older 4 slot gaming board which I turned into 7 with a PCIe splitter. It also worked on my Z270-A which expanded it to 12 slots. But splitters can be hit or miss, especially with older mobos.

Whatever you do, do NOT order from Cryptomined. Scammed out of $39 for a splitter that I paid for with crypto. Got the run around for months upon months. Should've just ordered through Amazon to begin with, which I just ended up doing.

The wiki links here for a list of appropriate motherboards if you're going to spend money on a new one.

Some other lists:

http://bitcoin.zorinaq.com/many_pcie/

https://forum.getpimp.org/topic/720/list-of-top-known-motherboards-for-multi-gpu-mining

Also, here's an interesting post I saved awhile back about a guy who used to buy a bunch of those cheap enterprise desktops and converted them into 3-4 gpu rigs. I guess this made more sense back when Z270s and mining experts were selling for $300.

Thanks, I'll check out the graphs tomorrow. When I tried USB 3.0 on this thing, instead of 30-40MB/s when going from one disk to another in the enclosure like I'm getting with eSATA, it was like, 15-20MB/s on a large file copy. Is my StarTech PEXUSB3S4V shit for this thing or something maybe? It worked fine when these were in their original enclosures.

USB port bracket worked for me on google.

It's things like this (USB 2.0) and this (USB 3.0 AKA 3.1 Gen1).

The thing I don't quite understand from the spec is why it's 8/6 and 4/2, rather than a fixed number (8 and 4 eg). But I guess if your manual covers more than one motherboard model, the different numbers could apply to different models.

Okay, so, I put some more thought into this, and you might be able to get away with it.

What you'd need to do is get a motherboard with a socketed in mPCIe wireless card (of which there aren't many, the only AM4 ones I could find were this Gigabyte one or possibly this ASRock one). Then, remove the wireless card, and replace it with a mPCIe->PCI-E 1x riser (something like this or this). Then use that to connect the Intel WiGig adapter. (mPCIe offers both a 1x PCI-E connection and a USB 2.0 connection, to explain the USB ports on both risers)

Although it would be a lot easier to just get an mATX board.

I understand you want to use this simply as a proof of concept for education but the lesson you will be giving others is that cpu mining is neat and possible when it should be discouraged. At minimum you should go on amazon and buy a ASIC USB stick - https://www.amazon.com/GekkoScience-Double-Compac-2-Bitcoin-BM1384x2/dp/B072L5QYT5/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510055060&sr=8-1&keywords=asic+bitcoin+miner

or used s3 asic - https://www.amazon.com/AntMiner-S3-441Gh-0-77W-SHA-256/dp/B00NZDBWKG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510055060&sr=8-4&keywords=asic+bitcoin+miner

to educate young users with

Look into this mini-pcie to PCIE-1X adapter.

Some cards (such as intel i340 NICs) require the 12V power to be connected, which can complicate things a little, but others only require 3.3v. One thing to watch out for: some companies have a whitelist for what cards can be installed in the mini-pcie slot, you may need to have the bios modified before you can use one of these. Lenovo in particular loves to do this, as does HP.

This product might help if you don't find a software solution.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TZR3E70/ "Kingwin HDD Power Switch Module 6 Switches for 5.25-Inch Bay"

I have one and it works great for dual-booting while keeping the hard drives completely separate.

> Depending on your computer, you may have to upgrade your motherboard

That's incredibly unlikely. For a start, if you have a CPU fast enough to handle VR then you have at least PCI-E 2 and almost certainly PCI-E 3. Given that, you only need a spare PCI 1x slot and you can add this card for $46 to give you 4 more USB 3 ports and 500MB/s (4Gb/s) of bandwidth with PCI-E 2, double that with PCI-E 3. More than enough.

If you have a PCI 4x slot free then you can get this monster card which also has 4 USB 3 ports on it, except, they are all on individual USB controllers that don't share bandwidth with each other, and a max 2000MB/s (16Gb/s) (again, double for PCI-E 3) of throughput, so you could connect all 3 cameras to just this card and it would function just fine.

OK, thanks for the explanation, it appears there are Thunderbolt 3 versions

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SONNET-TECHNOLOGIES-USB3-4PM-Allegro-4-Port/dp/B00GRGCV2G/

Something like this, and np. Feel free to ask more questions if you need to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DPA0QRE/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1510466558&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Fan+controller

If you can't find a motherboard with USB C display port alt, then why not just purchase a PCI-e add on card instead.
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-USB-C-Express-Alternate-Mode-UPD2018/dp/B01MY4WRBU
This one here's the card most people are using to connect their Cintiq Pro's to.

You connect your graphics card's displayport cable into it, then connect your Cintiq's USB C cable into the card.

Just make sure you're using the usb c cable that came with your Cintiq or some other cable that's rated for thunderbolt 3 4k 60hz output. Otherwise you might end up having disconnection issues or other problems.
Good luck now!

Here is the post for archival purposes:

Author: Killcraft69

Content:

>So I'm thinking of getting this
I noticed in the reviews a person mention that they couldn't use it because they didn't know how. Is there anything more I would have to do then just plug it in a pc? Is this even a good option? what is the best program for mining

The usb expansions card you use needs to have a Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset on it. I'm not seeing anything about that on the product description page.

This expansion card costs more , but does work well. If you get this one make sure to not use the drivers that come with it, but rather generic Windows drivers.

For me it ended up being the onboard Usb controller (Usb 3). I ended up buying a pci-e Usb 3.1 (gen 2) card that has 4 ports. It has 2 separate USB 3.1 controllers on the board dedicated to 2 ports each. It pretty much eliminated lockups and lag. I run all 3 USB cables to the card. Most motherboards have only 1 controller for all the USB ports, and it just can't handle the bandwidth of the sensors and rift. I bought the card for approx $130 canadian on Amazon.
Here is the link for the one I bought.

https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-PEXUSB314A2V-PCI-Card-USB/dp/B071DFQ6TW/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Usb+3.1+pcie+card&qid=1571503357&sr=8-4

here's what I'd recommend using:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1EU9LG/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V9QNAC4/

or equivalents from ebay, etc. Then use flashrom from Linux to write a good firmware image back to the board (PM me for download link)

I kept having these issues and I eventually bought a PCI-E USB hub and now it's all perfect.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PVCDM9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

This one specifically, if you want one you know will work 100%.

yeah i got this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073W9KCFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it's one of those Ubit ones from amazon. works w/ Windows (make sure to install one GPU at a time) and no-fuss set-up on HiveOS

Do you have unused USB headers on your motherboard? It's worth taking a look. If so then this or this should help you out.

By USB headers I mean from the mainboard. You are correct about those numbers - the number of ports on the rear IO. I do wish the mATX boards had more, say eight, but I can buy a USB header to bracket cable if need be (like this, can do USB 2, 3, COM, FireWire, many things really https://www.amazon.ca/USB-4-Port-Bracket-Dual-Headers/dp/B0027YYMQA)

Yes, they do. I think much of that is the chip itself (silicon lottery) but I could be wrong. I did watch Buildzoid's analysis of B350 VRMs and learned a lot, though I can't say I know very much :P and I gathered they are similar for the most part, the MSI and ASRock anyway. I guess it also depends on other bios features like LLC to which I don't know much at this time

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Dual-Port-USB-C-Card/dp/B071WYWFJC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

This one is USB 3.1 Gen 2 - 10gbps. Won't help the Link. But it is the best and most modern standard.

You will need to connect SATA power to this card for maximum power delivery.

I'm still researching options....

I doubt you specifically need a 4th gen or higher CPU, it's just trying to say that you want the speed of a 4th gen or higher CPU, because the average speed of older generations is slower. I would try it with the current CPU and go from there. (if someone knows better and the HD60 needs 4th gen+ instruction sets like AVX2 or FMA3 correct me)

To solve the USB 3.0 issues you could use a USB 3.0 internal add-on card: https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Transfer-Motherboard-Computer-KW-PCI2USB3/dp/B00BTYOKXO/

Yes, specifically for this reason I went ahead and got a dedicated USB 3.1 card and it's made all the difference with the headset and camera occasionally having USB errors. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PVCDM9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the one I got.

Oculus recommends the $80 Startech with 4 USB controllers as the ultimate offering.

• 4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e2EIAbGF5PMKH
  
  However, the Startech single usb controller card (similar to the inateck) seems to also work, and is only $30-$40. While Oculus doesnt state the lesser Starteck card is compatible, the reviews say otherwise
  
  
• StarTech.com 4-Port PCI Express SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Controller Card Adapter with SATA Power PEXUSB3S4V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AT5SVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D3EIAbV1KZXJ9
  
  

That's not going to work for a variety of reasons. Can you get an expansion card like this - https://www.amazon.com/FebSmart-Self-Powered-Technology-No-Additional-FS-U2-Pro/dp/B071P5C6CS/ (Not an endorsement of this particular card)

What computer do you have that doesn't have USB 3.0 ports? It may not be enough to run VR.

my goal right now is to achieve highest machine/$ utilizing virtual machines , to do server>thin client feed efficiently you need hardware acceleration which means a gpu and that makes things complicated ...
im planning to do some experiments i can especially with these miinig stuff there are things like this which if they work would be a really nice solution....
im not an expert on pci lane allocation or pci passthrough but linus was able to get 8 individual cards off of a single pcie slot on his 6 editors 1 cpu system which doesnt line up with stuff ive been reading online on how iommu groups are the limiiting factor on gpu passthrough (maybe because he used acs override idk)...

Some people will say put both OS on the same SSD, however if something ever happens to that SSD then you have a completely unbootable system. Due to that, I often recommend a separate disk for each OS.

If you go through old posts you will see that many people who try to do Windows/Linux dual boot have had issues with trying to use Grub as the boot loader and this is why [I usually link people here](
https://www.reddit.com/r/linux4noobs/comments/3msid3/duel_booting_linux_and_windows_separate_drives/) which is the basic setup for individual drives on each OS and using the Windows boot loader.

EDIT: These directions are the same that I use for every dual boot setup I do, and currently running 3 Windows installs (2xWin10, 1xWin7), 1 Ubuntu, and a "shared" data drive. Have done so many setups like this for many people and haven't seen any problems crop up.

In your particular case, if you do not want each drive to see each other then you may want to use a HDD switcher similar to this , unfortunately I couldn't locate one specific to SSD.

Yes, this. Experienced what OP is describing and more. But never fear, amazon always has what you need. Runs butter smooth now.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PVCDM9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, you can reflash the bios on your own with a few tools from amazon and another machine. If you are going to be messing with running linux or w10 on these machines you probably should just pick them up for when you need to reflash the bios.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KYK2DR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V9QNAC4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1EU9LG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the Startech 3.0 I was looking at, this is the Startech 3.1 it doesn't mention it as Gen. 2 so I think it's not. I guess that means I'm better of with the 3.0?

There are cards like this, using a switch chip to allow connected multiple cards to a single slot:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubit-Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073W9KCFC&pd_rd_r=KHV2Q1WDADWVYY9MT0Z3&pd_rd_w=MBBQf&pd_rd_wg=XiTha&psc=1&refRID=KHV2Q1WDADWVYY9MT0Z3

Then you use the normal risers with it. I have not personally used this card tho.

I've only ever seen this done on a pci card, never an external adapter/cable. For newer PCs I'd recommend using a TB3 card like https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Alpine-Thunderbolt-Components-GC-Alpine/dp/B0722SV69N (this is the one I use) but those HP boxes don't support it. The Dell might work but check that the TB3 header is actually present on your motherboard first. You'll also probably need a BIOS update.

For older motherboards that don't support TB3 addon cards, something like this one should work: https://www.amazon.com/Dual-USB-C-Express-Alternate-Mode-UPD2018/dp/B01MY4WRBU

Both cards work by looping the DP output of your video card back in using a short jumper cable.

Just saw this and it specifically mentions Unraid in one of the customer reviews. It's expensive though - $100USD:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-USB-PCI-Card-USB/dp/B071DFQ6TW

Might want to ask on the Unraid forums, you'll probably get better answers there.

This is the one I been using and seem to hold up well, the body is well built and feels premium. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072F2M874/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With some serious effort (including laptop disassembly) you might be able to swap out the wifi card (if it's mini pcie) for a USB 3 card and run thin cables to bring the ports out through the dvd drive slot...

https://www.startech.com/m/Cards-Adapters/USB-3.0/Cards/2-Port-Mini-PCI-Express-USB-3-Adapter-Card-with-Bracket-Kit~MPEXUSB3S22B
^ It isn't cheap and it's more targeted at SFF PCs, but this is the basic idea.

An even slightly more bizarre solution would be to use a regular pcie usb 3 card with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Express-Extension-Adapter-Riser/dp/B01FVPITN8

Do you mean something like these?

https://www.newegg.com/syba-model-sd-pex20186-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815124158

https://www.newegg.com/p/17Z-000F-001H2

https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=657&bno=116&tb=51&area=en

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-PCIE-Card-USB/dp/B071WYWFJC?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/GekkoScience-Double-Compac-2-Bitcoin-BM1384x2/dp/B072L5QYT5/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504126883&sr=8-1&keywords=gekkoscience+2pac

Note - this also is likely to NOT be profitable as a mining device.

> Alienware X51 r1

I mean if you want to get a little "hacky" you can try something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Express-Extension-Adapter-Riser/dp/B01FVPITN8

I've been looking at motherboards and cases and I'm really confused on matching up USB ports.

So obviously, rear panel usb ports will be found on the back of your case, and those depend entirely on your motherboard.

But what about front USB ports, the ones that case makers already include? Correct me if I'm wrong, but, that all depends on the internal io connectors/headers of the motherboard, where a single header should support 2 ports of it's type?

And where does adding USB ports belong in this? Whether through a pci slot in the back or a 5.25" bay in the front?

If you're looking to expand further, you might want to look into a pcie expander

It didn't look like an m.2 exactly (I figured maybe proprietary), but upon further inspection the spec sheet shows it is a half mini PCI-E slot. It is different from m.2, but still a PCI slot all the same. This adapter might just be able to do what you need it to do as, as far as I can tell, the Vive Wireless Adapter only needs a 1x slot. Seems worth a punt.

Edit: I'm no expert on this, I was not previously aware of the half mini PCI-E. I can't quite tell, but it almost looks like it might be a 1x slot all by itself? If it is, then all you'd need is a 1x extension and you might be able to plug the card in directly. Perhaps he could take the wifi card out and see if that's a standard 1x or if it does require the adapter. Uncharted territory here.

It's the same system I talked the SO into getting last year while bundle prices were low so she'd have a 'turnkey vr' rig.

Protip 1 - This 4 port PCIe 1x card drops right in and helps make up for the lack of fast USB ports on the system - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AT5SVS/

Protip 2 - You have three SATA ports on the motherboard. You can disconnect the CD-ROM, drop in two 3tb (or larger) HDD's to make a decent mirror and zip-tie a SSD on top the drive bay (see photo). There are enough free power leads off the stock PSU to make this happen.

https://imgur.com/a/95hsZ

I installed the SSD first for her, mirrored the OS off the stock 1TB HDD onto the SSD, pulled the 1TB, dropped in two 3TBs and built a mirror so her rig could double as a decent Plex/Steam server.

For the price it's not a bad little rig.

you can buys something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Bracket-Built--20-Pin-KW-PCI2USB3/dp/B00BTYOKXO/

I did actually. Just a few weeks ago. The StarTech one. I have 2 sensors plugged in to the StarTech card, one more plugged in to USB 3 on the board and the headset plugged in to the USB 3 port that says VR Ready.

You also have two PCI Express slots, so pick up a PCI E splitter for one or both! You may run into issues if the motherboard doesn't have options like Above 4G Decoding or setting lane speed, but 3 should work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Ubit-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517574065&sr=8-3&keywords=pcie+splitter&dpID=51-opCYTp1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I have this card in my desktop, which I built from server hardware. The system can boot off of it, it's got pretty damn good performance under both Windows and macOS, and draws only bus power. The price is a little steep – but it just works.

I can understand wanting a multi-port dock for your desk, but I don't see why you'd need to carry it around with you. And building it into a soft case seems like a weird choice. I would rather just pickup a USB C hub from a reputable manufacturer for ~half the price. Of course that's assuming you even need all that stuff. I can't remember the last time I wanted to use ethernet away from my desk. MAYBE having a USB A adapter would be handy, but that's a fraction of the cost and size.

He's making it sound a lot more complicated than it really is.

The PCI-E slot on a laptop is an Mini-PCIE form factor which is normally used for the wireless card in a laptop. He took out his wireless card and put a Mini-PCIe to PCI-E 1x adapter such as this here and hooked it up to the video card. You then need an extra PSU on the side to power the video card which you hook up the molex to the 4 pin included with the adapter. Some PSUs will include these on the accessories cable as they were originally used to power floppy disk drives, the form factor is the same. After you have the PCI-E adapter and the video card hooked up to power, you simply use a PSU Jumper to power on the video card, power on the laptop, install drivers for the video card, and hook it up to a display. Then, you have to use ethernet for internet, but that's about it.

Voila, you now have an external GPU for your laptop. It will only run at 1x PCIE Speed, but it should still perform better than anything you have onboard unless you have one of those crazy laptops with a $400+ card stuffed into it on a custom PCB.

Just Google "Hard Drive power switch". You'll find videos and switchers for sale like this.

I got one that works fairly well with my LG v20. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072F2M874/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HNlRzb2SFQ0JP

I plan to buy some of these to expand these old motherboards I been using.

https://imgur.com/a/9yg7b

These old motherboards only allow 1 GPU, but with the adapter below, it can upgrade to 8 GPUs per motherboard.

 

PCI-E Riser Extender

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073W9KCFC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3JV1FMRJ9GCIF

My research has gotten me pointed at this:

http://www.amazon.com/Ports-Inateck-PCI-E-Expansion-Version/dp/B00I027GPC

It appears quite affordable, 4 port, no extra power, should work without drivers on mac side and fine under bootcamp... seems like a solid option. Anyone have any opinions on this or any other cards?


Alternatively http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GRGCV2G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00I027GPC&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0G5YNS92XRZZA2KJ0YE3#Ask seems functional for people, but there's less feedback and twice the cost so...

What kind of computer do you have? If you have a Mac, a Thunderbolt to Firewire adapter is what you need, plus the appropriate cable (4-pin to 9-pin probably.) Otherwise, if your computer has an ExpressCard slot, you can get a Firewire ExpressCard.

If you have a desktop with a free PCIe slot, they make those, too.

Don't use AV-to-anything. There's too much quality loss going to analog composite.

As long as the USB-C supports alternate mode, then it can work, weather it's on the motherboard or not.

Unfortunately, I don't know anyone who tried this in action, but this card has the specifications you need. Tell us once you try it, so we all know~
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-USB-C-Express-Alternate-Mode-UPD2018/dp/B01MY4WRBU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520917479&sr=8-1&keywords=pci++usb-c+alternate

You probably should search but ...

You want this: https://www.amazon.com/FebSmart-Self-Powered-Technology-No-Additional-FS-U2-Pro/dp/B071P5C6CS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pcie+usb3&qid=1574451858&sr=8-5

As for the GPU, check the Oculus Link requirements.

Here is the same or similar product with reviews on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Ubit-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511110006&sr=8-5&keywords=pcie+multiplier

This video gave me the stuff I needed:


https://youtu.be/l3HXpJVPoCU

Here’s the DisplayPort cable I’m using:


CableCreation DP Fiber Optic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1ZPSZN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And the usb extender:

UGREEN USB Extension Cable USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQ88CHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You’ll also need a DP coupler, this is the one I got:

Cable Matters 2-Pack DisplayPort... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YFPM2CU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I do want to point out that I was having issues with this setup until I plugged the USB extender into my USB 3.1 card I installed in my motherboard.

This is the card I installed:


Rosewill RC-509 PCI-E (PCI Express) to USB 3.1 (Type A +Type C) Expansion Card USB 3.1 Gen II SuperSpeed 10Gbps Internal 15-Pin Power Connector USB-C Port 3A Charging Power With Asmedia Chipset https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRSTZXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nCeWDbYQR65M3

The index only supports USB 3.0 but I suspect that USB 3.1 might supply a more stable power source. Also do make sure that with the fiber optic DP cable, you plug the side that says “source” into your graphics card and “display” into your trident connector. Seems obvious but I ran the cable twice the wrong way both times thinking I had the correct ends at each end.

You could use something like this to switch power on and off for the drives. Also why can't you just use the clover bootloader to choose which OS to boot into at startup? The software bootloader is completely different from the one you used in the past (made specifically for hackintoshes) so boot files aren't tampered with. I've been using it on my laptop for over 2 years with no issues.

You know you can directly use the motherboard's USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 headers, right?
If I'm not wrong, the Asus STRIX H270F has 2x USB 3.0 headers, while the smaller Asus STRIX Z270G only got one which will be used by the computer case's front panel.

Yeah, you'll likely have a controller for each. Probably several USB2 controllers. My AMD/Gigabyte board has oodles of USB2, but only 2 usb 3.0 ports.

However, your mobo will likely have headers with additional USB ports that may not be connected. If you have them, pick up a bracket to make the ports available.

Almost certainly not, but if you have a desktop computer and that computer has unused USB headers (USB 2.0 / USB 3.0) on the motherboard, you can buy a bracket that'll connect to those headers and put new USB ports on the back of your computer (USB 2.0 / USB 3.0)

For those who stumble upon this thread and need a solution. After a long search I found this. It's a SATA power switch module that installs in the 5.25" bay in your case. The reviews mention that the power voltage drops when turning on new drives with the PC is still on causing a BSOD. So if you're using this to turn on/off backup drives , connect the PC's OS drive to a separate power line and use this module to connect only the backup drives. If you're going to use this to boot one out of several drives then you shouldn't have any problems like that.

If you go with each OS on a separate drive you might want to consider a HDD switch. It won't be absolutely necessary as you can always choose your boot device during initial power up. The benefits of a switch will be that you won't need to have all your drives constantly powered on and each OS will be completely isolated and not try to mount the other OS drives.

Amazon link

You can even buy a SATA switch to power only the drive(s) you want to use.

Im gonna use this and this, cut some holes in the bottom cover, and put a desktop gpu into my 2570p laptop's disk drive bay. Has an I5 3380m which is relatively fast. When under load the Intel HD Graphics 4000 uses 12 watts so it wont be a hugeee power increase.

I tried it with everything but my mouse plugged in and no dice.

I got this

I have this board. I'm not sure if it has voltage boost

Oddball question, I got a desktop PC, USB c 3.1 addin card from StarTech, I want to use a USB C dock, but they and hubs all seem to have power delivery built in, is there any issue with me using one with power delivery or will it fry the addin card or PC?

​

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Dual-Port-USB-C-Card/dp/B071WYWFJC

https://www.cablematters.com/pc-1023-127-gen-2-usb-c-dock-usb-c-docking-station-with-dual-4k-displayport-and-80w-charging-for-windows.aspx

You could get one of these, which plugs into your headers on the motherboard. Amazon

Or you could buy a hub with 3+ ports attach it to a USB port, and then have more ports. Amazon

Do you have a custom build computer with extra USB headers? If so

I think you're talking about the 9-pin headers generally used for front-panel USB ports, and sometimes for PCI-bracket USB expansions.

I'm talking about on-board usb ports. Nearly all modern motherboards have 'em, and they're soldered on.

Well I guess you're in luck

I'm running this Rosewill card with a Presonus 24.4.2 without issue but your results may vary. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F3DM6C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

StarTech.com 4-Port PCI Express SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Controller Card Adapter with SATA Power PEXUSB3S4V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AT5SVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-veaAbC514HMN

This is what I’m using. 4 Port PCI Express PCIe SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Controller Card Adapter with UASP - SATA Power - USB 3 PCIe Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AT5SVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pXaJBbD648G63 . It has a power connection but it isn’t hooked up. I am using it in a white box for a windows vm. My r510 II has 2 internal 2.5” drives. You always use one of those cables to power it if needed.

Just to follow up with this, I did get it working with this USB add-in card. It has a Renesas controller and I think the ThinkServer does too, so pretty sure it will work.

I had to apply an update to ESXi and manually start the xHCI module, as described in this article:

http://www.v-front.de/2014/11/vmware-silently-adds-native-usb-30.html

https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Transfer-Motherboard-Computer-KW-PCI2USB3/dp/B00BTYOKXO/

Just search for "USB 3 bracket".

You have the expansion connector near the ATX power for USB 3.0. If you look at pictures of the motherboard, it is a pin connector that’s blue, and says USB 3.0

Then you would just need a USB 3.0 header adapter to add additional ports.

The Asus boards such as the Z170 deluxe that have Asmedia on the rear panel, have headers on the motherboard that are connected to the intel controller. You can just hook up a cheap USB 3.0 bracket.

http://amzn.com/B00BTYOKXO

Are all your PCIE slots full?

Do you NEED the USB cables in the front?

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Its the most simple to just plug in a USB 3.0 card and have the USB slots on the back.

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I have 2 of these cards in my 2012

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GRGCV2G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I added an extra SSD to my spare DVD drive using this method

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https://everymac.com/systems/apple/mac_pro/faq/mac-pro-how-to-install-second-optical-drive-bluray.html

So the Vive Wireless requires a PCIe 1x, but my motherboard doesn't have one. It does however have a mini PCIe slot. Anyone think one of the miniPCIe to PCIe adapters would impact functionality of the wireless unit?

My motherboard: ASRock X99E-ITX/AC

Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FVPITN8/?coliid=I1K641BVK9YXMM

I current use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071P5C6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nbPxDb9PTX69E

Im currently running 6.5 update 2

Yup, USB C cards are a thing.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Dual-Port-USB-C-Card/dp/B071WYWFJC

Right after they mentioned this, I started looking at PCIe expansion cards with USB-C as my PC runs on an old Z97 board with an i5 4690k. Found this, quite cheap.

I've been using startech version for a while https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WYWFJC/

I sprang for that one's big brother with HDMI.

The PCI-E Riser Extender for Bitcoin\Litecoin\ ETH coin ect Ubit 4 in 1 PCI-E Riser Adapter Board USB3.0 PCI-E Rabbet- Ethereum Mining ETH (4 in 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073W9KCFC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Theoretically you could shove 20 cards on there as mining doesnt use a lot of bandwidth

Use these https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Ubit-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518566748&sr=8-3&keywords=pcie+to+4+usb

That card is a usb 3.0 controller card, it wont work with any pcie risers.

What you may need is more likely this:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubit-Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=pcie+4x+riser&qid=1565113205&s=gateway&sr=8-3

The PCI-E Riser Extender for Bitcoin\Litecoin\ ETH coin ect Ubit 4 in 1 PCI-E Riser Adapter Board USB3.0 PCI-E Rabbet- Ethereum Mining ETH (4 in 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073W9KCFC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I used these ones and all three worked, although at the moment I only have 3 gpu's on each one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073W9KCFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

have you check out PCIe Extenders

Is that a Ubit 1 to 4 PCI-E Riser Extender?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073W9KCFC/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3JV1FMRJ9GCIF&psc=1

I've done the same setup on my desktop. I bought this Kingwin HDD Power Switch Module 6 Switches for 5.25-Inch Bay (HDD-PS6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TZR3E70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tcTKzbQQV096C from Amazon. Inside my desktop I mapped the toggle buttons to my different hardrives. The sata cables remain connected at all times. Your motherboard may give a warning on every boot that a sata device is missing, in my case it doesn't.

I did this mainly so me playing on Linux didn't mess up my personal files in Windows but now a days it's more so that Windows doesn't mess up Ubuntu.

If it is looking like a problem with the board, I do have an older socket 1155 board, but it inly has 2 pcie slots. Does anyone here have experience with the pcie extender cards? If i could throw one or even two of these on that socket 1155 board, id be back in business.

https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Ubit-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509989784&sr=8-4&keywords=pcie+splitter&dpID=51-opCYTp1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

take a look at this https://www.amazon.com/SUNIX-USB-C-Express-Alternate-Mode-UPD2018/dp/B01MY4WRBU

It doesn't support USB PD so I don't know if it provides enough power for that monitor (only 1.5A@5v)

Excuse me, I wasn't actually meaning a USB hub. Instead I was referring to this USB 3.1 card. I mean, it really sounds like there is virtually no real benefit from going the extra mile and getting 3.1 slots, but if it gives me just that little bit of performance edge then I'd be willing to pay. I'm running an SLI setup with two massive cards so I'm not really sure I could even manage to squeeze a hub in there anywhere. So this may not be a viable solution, but I guess I can try like hell. :)

You can get better ones for $70.

These do 15gh/s. OP says he's using Antminer U1s which do 2gh/s.

Still not cost effective. Chances are very slim.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Dual-Port-Card-USB/dp/B071DFQ6TW/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=ya_aw_od_pi&th=1

As I said, probably over the top. But back in the day when Room Scale was the newest shit for Rift, those were the only ones that managed. I got the 4 port ones.

I had a similar problem with my motherboard and Rift S. I have a Gigabyte (Z68A-D3H-B3) motherboard and the integrated USB 3.0 (Etron EJ168) was not working with my Oculus Rift S. I ordered this card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PVCDM9/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and after the card installation the Oculus Rift S device is working properly. (Win10, version: 1903)

Some sort of update: I believe at this point that the original reason for the death of the initial mainboard (ASUS M4A87TD EVO) was because of over-draw from the PCI-E x1 slot in which I plugged the linked PCI-E extender card.

And I'm thinking this is also the result of instability with the replacement board. So I'm switching to an ASRock BTC board with native x1 slots. There's a reason they require 4-pin molex to power the PCI-E slots, I guess.

Anyone else have experience with this problem? Or these PCI-E extender cards?

They do work, although they don't change the fact most consumer motherboards are limited to 4 GPUs (due to the BIOS lacking 4G decoding). Also, some people have had trouble getting these to work in a x16 slot, so you may want to use a M.2 adapter if your ITX board has a M.2 connector.

EDIT: You can use this on the AM1I's mini PCIe slot, just break the mini card to make it half height and use the x1 slot (not the USB port).