Reddit mentions: The best jack stands

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

Additional Notes:

I hope this is the right subreddit. Putting this first because it is the important part. I am looking for a sort of project car but one for someone that has no mechanic experience. I have an engineering degree, but have never worked with automotives. My current car is good enough to last at least til december so I am looking for a car that I can work on until then and eventually have it become my daily car. I want this to be a learning experience so by the end of it all I will be somewhat efficent at basic mechanic work as well as tuning, performance upgrades, etc. I have never owned a manual car but desire this so that I learn how to drive stick as well as they seem to have the most viability when talking about upgrades and working on them. I plan on using 3k USD on the inital purchase but if I find something for less then the remainder of the 3k will go straight back into the car being purchased. I also plan on spending between 300-600 USD a month on parts to gradually upgrade performance and eventually apperance. The idea is putting roughly 6-7k into a car and make it a learning experience instead of just purchasing something I wont want to work on. I also have a mechanic that can look at the car during the initial purchase but any links that will help with identifying problems especially for specific cars will be appreciated.


Can you do Minor/major work on your own vehicle:

I just purchased a the following as starter mechanics tools

• Craftsman 230-Piece Mechanics toolset
  
  
• TEKTON Universal Joint Set
  
  
• Neiko 1/2 Inch drive premium Breaker Bar
  
  
• Kobalt 5-piece pliers set
  
  
• Pro-Lift F-767 Grey Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton Capacity
  
  
• Torin T43002 Jack Stands: 3 Ton Lift Capacity
  
  And also a Ball Pein Hammer and Rubber Mallet
  
  
  If you have any recommendations other than what I purchased, I can still return any of these items and purchase others. Any other items I might need let me know. I plan on getting more tools as I need them.
  
  
  
  Location: USA, Texas, Rio Grande Valley Area
  
  Price range: Max 3000 USD for inital purchase
  
  New or used: Used
  
  
  Must haves: Easy to work on; Cost-Performance Efficent aftermarket parts; Ability to Upgrade
  
  
  Intended use: Project car for a couple months; Eventually Daily Use
  
  
  Vehicles you've already considered:
  
  
  
• 2000 Honda Civic EX D16Y8 Engine
  
  
• 1992 Corolla Toyota
  
  
• 1989 Honda civic ef sedan w/D15Z1 off 92-93 civic vx
  
  
• 1999 Honda Civic Coupe 1.6 vtec
  
  
• 1991 Honda Civic Hatchback
  
  
• 1997 vtec Hoonda Civic
  
  
• 1995 Honda Civic
  
  
• Civic Ex D19Y8
  
  
• 2000 Honda Civic Vtec 1.6
  
  
• 1984 vw rabbit gti
  
  
• 1999 Ecclipse
  
  
• 2000 Ranger
  
  
• 2000 Eclipse
  
  
• 1990 Mustang foxbody 5.0
  
  
• 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage
  
  
• 03 Mits Eclipse GTS Spyder
  
  
• CAMARO Z28
  
  
  I am open to suggestions but am more fond of light cars with better mpg
  
  
• Local Craigslist
  
  
• Local Craigslist 2
  
  Is this your 1st vehicle: No, currently have a 99 Toyota Corolla LE with 287k miles purchased at 170k and I put on the rest. I just had regular oil changes and minor things fized like sparkplugs. It had problem with the starter 6 months ago but banging on it made it work with no problems since then. No aftermarket parts and only problems currently is the evap cannister that I havent fixed and paint restoration as the clearcoat is gone aa I was ignorant on washing and waxing regularly as I live in a hot climate. It also has some rust on the roof and around the doors starting the develope. The corolla is okay, but being an automatic I assume there isnt much performance upgrades available. I also have the ability to purchase a 2005 Ford Escape XLT that works fine and just had a new cpu, tires and air compressor installed and has no current problems besides being Ford red in color ha
  
  
  
  Any help, opinions are greatly appreciated. If you would like to mentor me during this process as well, it would be cool to have someone in which I could ask question and get definite answers as no one in my immediate family or friends are car buffs.
  

Pyrometer

Low profile jack stands (flat feet, safe for tarmac)

Racing gloves

RaceQuip Helmet Support

A GoPro off-brand accessory kit To help mounting that GoPro to whatever you want to mount it to.

Some Mechanix gloves lots of options

Paint markers various colors.

F4 self-sealing silicone tape

Going Faster
Speed Secrets
High-Performance Handling for Street or Track

Another few things would be to find out what the driver uses for brake pads, brake fluid, rotors, oil filter, etc., as those can be pricey and nice gifts. (I use Hawk DTC-60 front, HP+ rear pads, Motul RBF-600 fluid)

Portable battery powered air pump for tires I have one very similar to this. It's cheap and great to use for adjusting pressures before sessions.

A decent tire pressure gauge This is the one I have and have used for several years and I have been very happy with it.

A subscription to Grassroots Motorsports

Torque wrench, +200 ft/lbs This is the one I have been using for a few years and it works well.

I've got lots of other ideas for tools and such; specific socket sets, impact gun & sockets, special bits for your car, magnet, flash lights/head lamp/stick light, channel locks, stubby sockets, various wrenches, extensions, breaker bar, bits, allen wrenches, vice grips, pry bars, adapters, pliers, cutters, etc that would be good to put on your list if you don't have them in your kit.

Happy holidays!

I'e considered a lift too, but ended up going with some much, much better jack stands. As far as I know, they're the best money can buy (still cheap at $170). They are drastically better built and more safely designed than my 3 ton and 6 ton stands. I bought them after one of my 6 ton stands slipped due to a mis-cast (or mis-welded?) tooth.

[Edit] Just saw chip812's post. As he mentioned, you can skip the jack and stands and just get some ramps if you prefer. I have never used them though. Also, depending on how low your vehicle rides, you might not even need any lifting whatsoever to reach the oil pan drain plug and oil filter.

You will need a a jack stand(they come in pairs), such as these.

The emergency jack that came with your van for flat-tire repair will do for the lifting, but you should probably buy a regular floor jack, such as: this. Consult your van's manual to find out where the jack points are.

You can buy a catch-pan from your local auto-parts store. There are open-top ones, and then there are ones that seal with a lid, so that you can store the spent oil for a while before disposing of it. Up to you in which you prefer.

The auto-parts store will have a huge catalog next to the oil/air filters, which will tell you the type of filter from each manufacturer that fits your van. Not much difference between them, so go with what you're comfortable spending.

As for conventional vs. synthetic, I'm not terribly well-versed on the benefits. I've read that synthetic oil lasts longer before breaking down, compared to conventional oil. I know many sports cars require synthetic oil. If your van is a general commuter vehicle, then maybe save a few pennies and go conventional. Again, largely up to you. Brand doesn't matter terribly, as they're all pretty much safe/good for your particular vehicle.

Also note, use the containers that the new oil came in to store the old oil. The auto-parts store will have a recycling container in the back where they will let you dump it.

Hi-Lift jacks are really designed for agricultural applications, like jacking up a wheel tractor by the axle, but they work great for off-road vehicle stuff. However, the jack does not mate with typical "civilian" bumpers well. 4 Wheel Drive Parts, Summit Racing, Amazon and others sell an adapter that fits on a Hi-Lift and allows you to jack up a vehicle with a conventional curved steel bumper. It's called a BL-250 bumper lift.

http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-BL-250-Bumper-Lift/dp/B00042JSNY/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1464636486&sr=8-10&keywords=high+lift+jack+accessories

And the Hi-Lift jack, itself.

http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-XT485-48-X-TREME/dp/B0017T7WHW/ref=pd_sim_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=31uiCiEJb%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0R8PKSGH1MMK7F92NCXS

Over the years, I have found three used Hi-Lift jacks at garage sales, etc. usually for very reasonable prices--$30-$40. They are extremely tough, and can be re-built easily. I would never trust a vehicle sitting on a jack, not a Hi-Lift or any other jack. The vehicle must be sitting on JACK STANDS to be safe. Never go under any vehicle sitting on a jack without jack stands.

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T41202-Jack-Stands-pair/dp/B0002H335A/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464637124&sr=1-1

I didnt have to since as the G2 Kit uses paint brush, so I just painted around it since it’s all about the aesthetics.

I used the adapters i bought from Amazon

Seven Sparta Jack Lift Pad for Tesla Model 3, 4PCS Jack Point Pad Sturdy Adapter Protects Battery & Paint for Using with a Floor Jack, Jack Lift Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXXVD9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7q4tDbMK9X0ZE


Jackstands like these and took the stick out and put the adapters on top of it. Make sure when you lower the car with a Jack, to Jack it down very slowly because the adapters can get out of place. Be VERY VERY careful hahah.

Pro-LifT T-6902 Grey Jack Stand - 2 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CBJKZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ws4tDbAVV9ZWN

I applied clear coat before applying the decal and then applied clear coat on the decal, so it can have the extra layer to cover it with 2 coats.

I ended up using a friend's motorcycle jack, similar to this.

It worked out great, as we could strap it down using one of the arms of the jack to help keep it from wobbling and tipping around when pushing the new engine back under. The guide also suggests using a furniture dolly, which I imagine would work just as well, if not a bit better since the supports on it are probably a bit wider, helping to balance it better.

These are my most used tools for working on cars.


Trim tool - For molding and trim and windows, this is a must

http://www.amazon.com/No-Scratch-Tools-Removing-Fastener-Molding/dp/B000LNBLTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692539&sr=8-4&keywords=bmw+tools


Tool Set - Here is your best bet for general tools. Start with this basic tool kit.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-96-011-170-piece-Mechanics-Tool/dp/B002VXN6TG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692665&sr=8-4&keywords=automotive+tool+kit

Code reader - then this so you can read check engine codes and properly fix the issue. This is a tool that will save you so much money.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692484&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+2+scanner

Jacks stands - Not so important but pick up some cheap jack stands

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692837&sr=8-1&keywords=jack+stands

Light - And a very helpful thing is a good light

http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-1002-Halogen-Project-Light/dp/B000FW7UH4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692872&sr=8-2&keywords=work+lights

I use a Big Red motorcycle jack that I also use to jack the wife's car for oil changes (with jack stands, of course). Got it on sale from Harbor Freight for about $49 years ago, they go for around $89 now.

Once you get the plastic off you can simply jack the bike using almost any jack, pivoting on rear wheel and sidestand (making sure bike is in gear so it doesn't roll). Then remove calipers, axle, and take wheel off. If you can manage to lift it without taking plastic off (as in the video below) that would be good as well.

You'll get told not to let the calipers hang by the hoses... so don't let calipers hang by the hoses.

This video shows front/rear removal, front starts about 3:45.

If you have the stock took kit it might provide what you need. Allen/hex wrench for the axle pinch bolts and the plug socket might fit the axle. Otherwise the guy in the video gives advice on a tool to get the axle out.

If you don't have much in the way of automotive tools, it's going to be an allen wrench set (for the pinch bolts), 22 or 24mm axle tool (or plug socket the appropriate mm end), valve core tool (some valve stem caps have a core remover end), bead breaker, and spoons.

If you have a gearhead friend they'd almost certainly have everything you need except maybe the axle tool (a correct plug socket possibly) and spoons. Walmart has a spoon set for about $19.

When you get to the actual tire removal/install, it's all about technique. The tire can be a bear to get off unless you keep the bead opposite from the side you're working on in the center well. Same is true when installing the new tire. I use a big C-clamp to keep the opposite beads together and it keeps the bead in the center of the wheel. Also, it might help to lay the new tire out in the sun as you begin the project. Warming it helps make it flexible.

Air... you're going to need to air the new tire enough to seat the beads. This can be about 60psi or more so prepare for that. If the new tire beads won't seat while you're airing it up, you may have to bounce the wheel/tire to get the beads to contact the side of the rim long enough to contain air. This can get very frustrating. A compressor helps because with a large volume of air it doesn't require the bead to contact very long, it almost immediately seals the tire and begins to seat the bead.

My tire change from a couple of days ago.

edit: all that and I forgot, most tires are directional. One of the tire change photos points that out. Having done this many times, like anything else trying to tell someone how it's done, many steps get left out because after so many iterations much of it is done unconsciously. Make sure you have a tire gauge handy. Some people get crazy about balancing, I don't balance but do line the yellow dot (if there's a dot) with the valve stem.

I actually got this set . They go under the back and it keeps the whole thing pretty stable. I do like your idea more. It’s the one thing I feel like can definitely improve upon right now. One sharp movement or forget to chock the wheels and I’m rolling right off the stands I’ve got

I have them. They're fine. Jack stands are pretty foolproof.

Some versions have a double locking mechanism like these to basically force you to ensure every time that the locking ratchet is fully engaged. (If it's not, the pin won't go in.)

I suggest u amazon impact sockets (mm not sae) and deep impact sockets both in 1/2 instead of normal ones (I wish I did this =/ ). also buy a pipe that will go over the breaker bar to extend it. Unless workout like MMA fighter, u will need it

I also have this.

And a socket to drill adapter, makes life really easy. Even to just use scissor jack with.

Great! I bet if you look under the car, behind the front wheel or in front of the rear wheel, inside of the side skirts or other plastic moulding, right near the pinch welds, you'll see some triangle arrows stamped/marked/notched out.

Also, you may be interested in something like this for your jack:

https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Medium/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510856163&sr=8-3&keywords=pinch+weld+jack+pad

i got something similar

i would recommend double-sided tape to keep them in place. other than that i'm happy i got them

i also got this adapter so i can use my floor jack easier

Make sure your car is on a flat surface and parking brake is on and transmission in Park.

You can just use the tire jack that comes with your car. Make sure you put the jack under the car where it tells you to, there's only a few places where the car can be supported.

And it may also be a good idea to invest in a pair of jack stands $30 or even ramps for $40.

Okay, so I am looking at getting a car still and want to try and do some of my own work.

When you jack up the car, what do are you supposed to use (if you don't have one of those big lifts)? [Something like this?](http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CMFN4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB](http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CMFN4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB)[Or this?](http://www.amazon.ca/Torin-T42002-Jack-Stands-Pairs/dp/B0028JQYPG/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_3_4HVK?ie=UTF8&refRID=15QJZ8WECKR5ASTT53JC) And how many would I need, like just to lift one side of the car (so 2)?

Pretty happy with these

I use these jackstands and they are absolutely amazing. They make the other "best" jackstands sold at big box stores look puny in comparison. The only drawbacks are they're expensive (~$65/ea) and the lowest lift height is equivalent to around middle of the way up on normal/smaller jackstands.

http://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM

This is a great detailed review which is what turned me on to Esco: http://revlimiter.net/blog/2010/07/mega-jack-stand-review-1/

Right on the crosstrek looks great too! I sort my gear by bags like these and keep everything under the rear seats in the cab. I have one bag with a socket set, a few wrenches, screw drivers. One bag with various grease, pb blaster, jb weld, and anti-seize. One bag with air compressor hose end bits, tire deflators and pressure gauge, hi-lift slider adapter, and trailer hitch pin. One bag with a few beer koozies, spare batteries, and a handful of cheap headlamps

Aside from those things in the bags I have an air compressor hose, air compressor is probably the thing I use the most often. Hi-lift has not been needed for the Colorado yet. I upgraded my headlights with the Retrofit source HID kit for the Colorado it is awesome. I also always have a cheap cooler in the bed usually loaded with gatorades for my crew when it’s damn hot out.

I lack a good first aid kit. But that’s about everything that always stays in my truck, been building the load out for a few years now and I have used it all on the trails in my old xterra never missed anything

I just got a set of 4 of these and they are the premium option. My set was $133 but from a shady online dealer usa tool (had to wait a month but got them). Feels amazing to be under a car not propped by my shady stands https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM

I like ESCO flat tops, particularly in cases where the vehicle has a flat jack pad:

https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM

Pretty sure they are these ones.

I love my Esco stands

I debated between ramps and jack stands for my C. I ended up getting these jack stands for $16 (now $20). They're cheaper than ramps, easier to use (no worry of driving up/off of the ramps) and I can rotate the tires while changing the oil, too. The V is about 3,300 lb, so the 2 ton jacks should be fine, but the 3 ton ones are only $26 if it makes you feel better.

Get some car jack stands under the server, then undo the cage nuts. Easy extract, and you get bonus jack stands when you're done.

Not cheap, but of the several kinds I own, these are my favorite.

ESCO 10498 Jack Stand, 3 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019JVIPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LASlzbAFRVNNE

They look like Esco Jack stands. I've been wondering myself what the quality is like.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM&ved=0ahUKEwiL1O_TjYTUAhXBOSYKHX5MALcQFgiDATAA&usg=AFQjCNHSLQYguOkfpvniLtj_F2FU1z_CVQ&sig2=TsPmFQEQy9UW2kc_5CpCaw

I wouldn't recommend it. With soft surfaces often you may have the jack stand start tilting to one side which becomes an avalanche effect. I have had two cars fall off of jack stands because of this (I know, I should have learned my lesson the first time.) Plywood or plate steel are the best options, or these kind of stands with the flat bottoms: link.

Good man! I was going to ask this, I use mine in the desert to jack off to (you know what I mean!) I use this adapter with my hi lift jack -

https://www.amazon.com/Lotus-Development-Slider-Adapter-Locking/dp/B00F4HX9FW

I would like to start changing the oil on my car (potentially on my parent's too) so does anyone have the link to that floor jack post from a couple days ago, if there was one? I have a 2000 Celica GTS, if you want to recommend anything here. I was thinking this with these jack stands, but that jack is expensive for me. I just don't want to have a car on my face.

Also, what are some other jack points/ jack stand positions other than the ones on the side of the car for the scissor jack?

Haha fair enough. I think it's hard to go wrong with jack stands honestly. If you wanted something other than the basic Harbor Freight offering you could pay for the Torins, I'd get 6 ton. http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T46002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3DQ

https://www.amazon.com/US-JACK-D-41610-Garage-Stands/dp/B00P248NYO

You get what you pay for. That is just an example. Made In America and this is what you what to see:

The only 100% USA made with 100% USA parts garage stands. Featuring a “Double Lock Security System” that utilizes two pawls to engage two teeth on the load bar. Rated capacity is PER stand– stands are packaged in PAIRS. The 3-ton and 6-ton stands have stamped legs held in position by an outside perimeter ring welded to the legs. All stands have ductile iron load bars. US Jack is the brand used by our U.S. Military, Boeing, Lockheed Martin and Snap-On. Each run of garage stands are load tested to 1 1/2 times the rated capacity per stand.

I hate referencing amazon, but this is probably all you need. $20 and it might save your life. link: jack stands

Glad insurance covered it.

I use this for the pinch weld jack points.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SR1TW2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Don't be cheap with raising your car up, seriously. What's saving 30 bucks when your life is at stake? 25 bucks at amazon for a pair of 3 ton stands.

Please do not use blocks of wood.

Here's some things to protect the frame rails(ridges) in front of the rear wheels...

https://smile.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Medium/dp/B01MQD0YXO/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1542254486&sr=1-9&keywords=jack+frame+protector

I've occasionally resorted to using a long screwdriver or bit of pipe to use a floor jack way under a car. You just need to move it a bit before there's clearance for the full handle.

Actually, they do make adapters that will fit onto the pinch welds. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Saddle-Adapter-Rocker-DP-Company/dp/B01N1ID2KZ or https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Protector/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=pd_bxgy_2/139-4332485-1348812?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MA232WY&pd_rd_r=73a3427b-60bf-11e9-b2ef-bb2ae37525d6&pd_rd_w=X1N83&pd_rd_wg=tRvUY&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=C93C6VH3BXPWX027P1JQ&psc=1&refRID=C93C6VH3BXPWX027P1JQ Lexus/Toyota write their manuals assuming that you will take your car to a mechanic. I have a Corolla myself and I do all of my own work.

That said, I do have a jack (actually 3), jack stands, and wheel chocks (My car is a manual transmission). I will never work on a car with just the scissor jack.

Edit: One additional line.

Get some jack pads to make jacking the car much easier.

Tesla Model 3 Lifting Jack pad - 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QR19NM9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_js0PDbZ4E1AFG

Yup. They pop off and then the jack can get to the pinch weld. Make sure to use a pinch weld adapter if you are using a normal floor jack.

I got these a while back.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO86BY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_bcStybKPMP9EB. They feel really solid. More than enough for my 2 ton Acura specially when I'm only lifting up one side. But never hurts to be cautious i suppose.

you can get those jack adapter cheaper at amazon bro

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https://www.amazon.com/Tesla-Model-Lifting-Jack-pad/dp/B07QR19NM9/ref=sr_1_4?crid=OLQ0XORMDH&keywords=tesla+model+3+jack+pad&qid=1571467161&sprefix=tesla+model+3+jack%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-4

harbor freight has 3 ton jack stand for $21 a pair right now. I would have bought them but their locking mechanism is shit imo. I got these instead still waiting for them to be delivered https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Stands/dp/B00026Z3E0. Going to put concrete blocks under the tires too when I lift the car up. Just bought some nice solid rubber chocks at Harbor freight for like $7.99 each, way better than the flo tools crap one's. Then went next store to advance auto parts and bought a 2-ton jack that was on sale for $24.99, that I have yet to open.

You're probably okay to do as you describe. You may wish to get a rubber piece or some wood to prevent damage to the pinch weld though.

I have a piece like this: https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-rubber-MEDIUM/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497976672&sr=8-1&keywords=jack++pinch+weld

In practice though I use my jack for the front cross member without issue. It scrapes the plastic skirts a bit getting under there but it goes.

Here you go

Your wheel is probably not thick enough, these are worth the price.

I picked up this one from Amazon for $100 w/prime shipping

Put this at the other end:

https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Steel-Jack-Stands/dp/B000CO86BY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520369095&sr=8-1&keywords=jackstand

Should be sturdy enough...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028JQYPG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OQmAub18JM8GV

US JACK D-41610 6 Ton Garage Stands Made In USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P248NYO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oRNnyb4H7SSWF

Just get these. They'll come in handy.

I prefer ones with a safety lock. I read a story here about some guy who knocked the release bar and crushed himself.

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382276522&sr=8-1&keywords=jack+stands

I use on of these.

Here…

$18 for a pair of 3 ton stands shouldn't break the bank.

Never, because I use these :)

Would be simpler to put it on ramps or simply lower the car to get it level. I've never seen a car where you need to lift all four corners to do ATF drain/refill but could be wrong.

You need sturdy jackstands and a strong jack. Since the parking brake is on the rear wheels and the front end is heaviest, I would lift the front first and put the car on the front jackstands then do the back end second.

Of course you need jackstands that don't eff up your pinch welds and I assume your car has a front/rear central jack point for a floor jack?

https://www.amazon.com/10499-Profile-Performance-Cushion-Capacity/dp/B01EJ1OGRI

Every jack stand rating I've seen is for a pair. Here's my Craftsman 2 1/4 ton stands, for example(look in the warning section). Some Harbor Freight stands. These stands on Amazon also specifically state their rating is for the pair.

I took the rubber pads off my footpegs and then I flipped my footpegs upside down and put a Jack Stand underneath each one, the bike will balance back and forth I propped up each side with some random stuff laying around (i used a bucket and a spray paint can lol)

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It's def jerry rigged together, but a quick and cheap fix, also it's extremely sturdy.

Not trying to be a jerk, but buy some jack stands. They're cheap and wayyyyy safer than keeping a vehicle on a jack. Jack vehicle up, insert jack stand, put vehicle down on jack stand. Fucker isn't going to move after that! (DON'T use the jack stand as shown in the amazon pictures, that's a great way to fuck up your body work. Put it under a frame member!)

Or, like my old truck, you could just reach in over the front tire to replace the oil filter, and combined with a fumoto valve on the drain plug you have a no tools oil change! (Unless a drain pan counts as a tool, of course.)

http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11930-Hugger-Wheel-Chock/dp/B000BQYH6Q


http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0

Cheaper than a funeral!

Hey OP

If you make an amazon wishlist and place these two items on it, I will buy them for you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007XTGCI/ref=cm_cr_othr_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8#cm_cr_carousel_images_section

https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-70472-Solid-Rubber-high-2/dp/B01CGU14T2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wheel+chocks&qid=1565750929&s=gateway&sprefix=wheel+ch&sr=8-3

When you create a wishlist you can have your shipping address hidden. It just lets people buy shit for you.

After you did this, pm me a link to your amazon wishlist and I will buy you the wheel chocks and jack stands.

Just paying shit forward.

These if you plan on leaving them up for any extended amount of time. The ones you posted I use as secondary backups in case the mains fail. I want to avoid getting crushed to death if possible.