Reddit mentions: The best keyboards & accessories

That's awesome, glad you are joining the club! I'm happy to help so by all means ask away:

>Did you individually lube every single switch?

Yeah I lubed every switch (104 total) as I felt it was necessary. Most people lube switches to increase smoothness or to change the sound or feel of a key press, however I did not really notice an increase in smoothness myself as I am still quite a novice myself when it comes to stuff like this. The main reason I did it was because I kept hearing a noticeable "pinging" sound coming from the springs of each switch. Adding lube to the top and bottom of the spring eliminated this sound, and since the switch was opened, I lubed the stems and housing because I might as well do it for the experience. If you're interested in how to do it, here is a very helpful guide to lubing switches by Nathan Kim: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSgPKPoFo2k

​

>If so that’s crazy, is there a tool on how you can do that in a fast manner?

\>>Here<< is a time stamp of two ways to open a switch. The first one is the method I used as using a switch opener was very fast and ergonomic for my hands. If you don't want to buy a switch opener, you could use the flathead screwdriver method as stated in the video, however it seems very time consuming and difficult but you save money. The opener in this video is cheap but I personally used the KBDfans switch opener.

Cheap switch opener
KBDFans switch opener (also available on their aliexpress storefront)
There are other switch openers out there of different material and prices, but they are ultimately all the same and serve the same purpose

​

>What lube did you use

I used Krytox 204 found on NovelKeys but as I am seeing right now they are sold out. The places I check that have lube are sold out or are extremely expensive, so I'll list the only places I know that sell em.

Switchmod is a great place to get em
Expensive ZealPC lube and usually high shipping rates

See if you can find Krytox or Christo Lubes on Amazon or Ebay. Here are also some guides/discussion for each lube:

Krytox Lubes
Christo Lubes

​

>and how long did that take

Hoooo boy. Depends on how good you are and how big your keyboard is. Since I'm a noob and it's 104 switches, it took about 3-5 hours IIRC. I concentrated during the first few switches but it eventually became repetitive so I started watching Twitch and YouTube. I got distracted easily so that probably contributed to the increase in time. YMMV depending on how good you are, how distracted you get, how many switches you lube, etc.

​

>I searched up if the stabilisers were good but it turns out the ones the GMMK came with aren’t the genuine cherry/GMk stabilisers. Which ones do I get if I wanted better ones as there are three options

The GMMK stabs are cherry style (have the + shaped stem) but yeah they aren't genuine ones. Most likely glorious did this to cut costs down. They are definitely lubed but idk if adding more lube would help make them less rattly as you may have seen in my sound test video.

So the stabs I got are from Novelkeys (found here). The GMMK only supports PLATE MOUNT stabs. You will need 1 6.25U plate mount for your spacebar and X number of 2U plate mount stabs for other keys, the value of X depends on your board size of course. If you're unsure how many you need, take off all your keycaps and count your 2U stabs to be extra sure.

I'm sure you probably know this already, but I'll include Nathan Kim's guide to clipping and lubing stabilizers as well.

​

>also how do you pop them off so I can replace them with clipped and lubed ones?

I also found this confusing, so recently I did my best to make a video with my potato quality camera that hopefully clears this up.

​

>I’m based in Aus so I got my GMMK from PCCG and it already came with gateron browns, are these okay? I’m mainly a person that plays games but I definitely do enjoy the typing feel so browns are a cool middle ground. What’s the difference between these and the speedy box royal switches you have?

Bare with me as I try to make this awful parallel. You know how some people can drink the same brand of coffee everyday for the rest of their lives, while others enjoy different brands, flavours, etc. of coffee either daily, or once in a while, etc. The point is everyone drinks coffee differently. It's the same with switches, everyone is different so everyone likes different switches. There's no such thing as the best switch (arguable) and no one but you really knows what is the best switch for you.

Gat browns are definitely one of the more common consumer switches and are a good starting point. Since the GMMK is hotswappable it would definitely be good if you looked into different switch types, but only if that is something YOU want to do. Glorious sells a switch pack filled with the most common Gateron and Kailh switch variants, and this would give you a good direction as to whether you prefer clicky switches, linear switches, or tactile switches. It also gives you variants of each switch type so you can see if you like heavier switches (dependent on springs), if you like the smoothness of one linear, or increased tactility in a tactile switch, or louder clicks in clicky switches, etc. Really the only way to know what you like is by trying different switches, however if you don't want to spend the money then that is also fine because Gateron Browns are a good switch regardless, and will definitely last you a long time.

You can also get switch testers for various other brands, like Cherry switch testers on Amazon (people say Cherry switches are less smooth than Gaterons but YMMV), or Ebay, Aliexpress, etc. for different prices with different switches included. Or you can custom choose switches on NovelKeys as they offer more variety.

(This is more or less my propaganda to get you to try more switches as I want people to be exposed to different switches)

​

>speedy box royal LMAO

Personally (and I say personally because people "experience" switches differently) I find that Gateron Browns have a lighter tactile bump later in the keypress, while Kailh Box Royals have a heavier tactile bump at the beginning of the keypress. These actually reflect in the force curves

Gat Brown force curve
Box Royal force curve

I find Gat Browns to be lighter overall in total actuation, but the Box Royals being box switches also add more stability to the keycaps (the caps wobble a lot less, but I don't notice this often). I enjoy both switches but I felt like trying some new tactile switch, hence why I bought the Box Royals.

​

Hope this nerd essay helps!

I have one. I like it. But I only like it because of the price tag; I make myself like it because of how it costs.

I was one of the people that sped down to fry's electronics on launch day and picked myself a cherry mx red version. I had never used mx red's before, but lately I have been getting into the CS:GO competitive scene and thought I could be in the top 5% if I bought reds. I have no idea why I would think this, but I did.

Now, before I get into the pro's and cons, let me preface this: I've bought 4 mechanical keyboards in the last year: so I'm not a noob with keyboards. I currently own a Quickfire TK, Blackwidow Ultimate 2013, Logitech G710+, and of course, the K70 RGB.
The OG keyboard (and probably my favorite to this day, is the Quickfire TK). It was small, light, never slipped, and always had a very bright backlight (this is important for later). The Blackwidow, also had a gorgeous backlight and this keyboard comes in a close second. Then the last 2 keyboard purchases I've made have since gone down-hill. I figured out I can't live without blue keys. Not reds, not browns, not blacks, hell, not even fucking turquoise.

Now this is probably a personal issue, but I can't live if I am not typing/gaming on blues. While writing this, I HAVE to look down while typing, and it is only on this keyboard. It just feels... weird. Something about blues on my fingers make my "keystrokes" more fluid. So enough with my personal problems with the keyboard, let's get on to the issues everyone has with the keyboard.

Pros:

• The wristrest. I bought this keyboard almost primarily for that. And I can say, that isnt really is a big deal, and I probably won't buy another keyboard without one.
  
• The software; I'm talking about features here. The UI is something different and I'll touch on that later. It really is feature-packed. With the API out there, and the helpful and supportive community, you an literally do anything. Yes, anything.
  
• Media controls. I never knew how much I liked/needed them. They are very useful for muting your mic/speakers for when your family comes in and you are in a skype call with your friends. (I mapped mine to mute my mic, not a native feature obviously).
  
  
• I like the brushed aluminum look, it is quite nice.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• The software; talking about the UI. It is atrocious, but I'm willing to ignore it sense after using it for awhile, it starts to make sense and isn't that terrible.
  
  
• The brightness. I find nobody touches on this, but I guarantee you'll notice it. It seems the LED's are dimmed by 50-75% on purpose. And no, I'm not exaggerating. Now I believe this is because the LED's are mounted within the switch to reduce ESD. However, I would almost want to risk ESD (I've never had a LED be a victim of ESD before), than to have them be less bright. Go pick one up, try it, and you'll automatically notice it on all the colors.
  
  
• No side USB ports / audio ports. Not a huge deal, but I enjoyed them when I was using my black widow.
  
  
• The corsair gaming logo doesn't really bother me, but it might bother you, so, I guess that's a con.
  
  
• The software..again, likes to freeze (pic below). Occasionally, the software won't crash, but the lights will just freeze. Whenever I press a key, it rainbows only that key, and as I'm typing this, a few of my keys are stuck mid-rainbow.
  
  
• I like the brushed aluminum for it's looks, but I don't like how I have to clean it every week or two. I do eat alot at my desk, but I always find hairs, food, and a little bit of coffee stains there. Nothing the keyboard can do about it, and not really a con, but just keep in mind that you will have to clean it alot.
  
  Conclusion:
  
  The keyboard is feature packed and has potential, although it just isn't there yet. I am very excited for a (hopefully) revision 2.0 of this. Essential, if Corsair came out with a razer blackwidow which had a wrist wrest and slightly tweaked the software, I would buy it. The keyboard currently is $133 on amazon for Cherry Blues. At this price, I would say it's worth it to atleast tinker around with. It is a nice keyboard, and I think I will continue using it, however, once again, it needs work.
  
  If you can pick it up for $133 or less, and you aren't going to spend your money on anything better, atleast give it a try; Maybe you'll like it.
  
  I hope you found this informative and useful :D
  
  album

[Keyboard] (https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Illuminated-Industrial-backlighted-EagleTec/dp/B015MPQQ0A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535930246&sr=8-3&keywords=eagletec+mechanical+keyboard)


The keyboard is a bit loud, but I like it a lot. Plus, it's pretty cheap for a mechanical keyboard. especially if you go with just the blue backlight instead of RGB.

Mouse

I have no issues with the mouse whatsoever. If you want more programmable buttons, you could always look at others. (I've always been a fan of Corsair mice, but Logitech has great mice as well.) You can program the color of the logo with Corsair's software to have a bunch of different effects, or stay blue since that's your theme.


Headset 1

This is the headset I've got and I absolutely love it. The sound quality is pretty good plus it's got a great mic compared to other headsets. I did link the refurbished one, though. I have a refurbished one and I've not had any problems. It isn't blue like you asked, but with everything else being blue I don't think it'll look bad since it's a neutral color scheme.

Heasdset 2

My friend has this headset and he thinks it's pretty good. I've never actually used it but he's happy. The mic quality is definitely a little worse and the blue cloth will eventually start to fray and rip. It is still a very popular and liked headset though.

Other people will probably have better suggestions for higher end gear, but if you buy all this you'll only be at around $160-$170, so you'll even have some money left over. Whatever you end up getting, I hope you like it!

• You barely list Kodi because of 3rd party pirate addons, despite it having most of of your requests for Roku already implemented. DTS-passthru, Passworded tv and addons and able to program remotes. The library is extremely robust and can handle searching your media in a bunch of different ways including by network. The Bluetooth headphones is reliant on you STB but kodi can deal with it. As a bonus with the yatse app you can cast youtube and other online services to the Kodi install as long as there is a Kodi addon for that service.
  
  
• Complaining about the Firestick you knew it was WiFi at time of purchase so you can't knock it for that. Also it sounds like you have some networking gear issues if it is truly 3ft away.
  
  
• You can build a HTPC and a few tools on the back end to get your all in one DVR box(https://tvheadend.org/).
  
  
• You can build a HTPC or buy something like the Wetek play for OTA and DVR
  
  
• Volume control is trickier but if you get a CEC enabled HTPC or Set top box you can just use your TV remote. The simpler choice would be just turn the TV all the way up and use the STB remote for volume. There are other Devices like flirc or Harmony remotes that can also solve this.
  
  
• CEC can handle turning the TV on and off. Harmony remotes can also handle this easily.
  
  
• Kodi again can solve your file type problems(http://kodi.wiki/view/Features_and_supported_formats).
  
  
• KODI, Just because 3rd parties have enabled streaming pirated content shouldn't be held against a solid Home Theater software.
  
  
• Keyboards Logitech makes the K400 usb keyboard that will work with HTPCs and some STBs. Also voice search on the Shield TV is pretty solid.
  
  
• Wifi based remotes are nice, if you like them just find a STB that supports them.
  
  In short a solidly built HTPC can fix almost all of your gripes. Also you should really look at kodi again.
  
  >Ok, so you mention my lack of paragraph and sentence structure (although I am hesitant to admit that you are very right) and also not mentioning a universal remote (which I don't want to buy [I wanna say the cheapest harmony is around 80$], rather I want a all in one solution) what are areas you find me to be confused or ill informed?
  
  There are plenty of perfectly capable remotes for much less the $80.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/LYNEC-Wireless-Keyboard-Infrared-Learning/dp/B00U78EKM4/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459302520&sr=1-3&keywords=HTPC+remote
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459302520&sr=1-6&keywords=HTPC+remote
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459302520&sr=1-2&keywords=HTPC+remote
  

Here's my final partpicker configuration based on this morning's deals: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3CWvTB. I've changed the motherboard and memory based on today's prices. Everything else is the same.

The AMD Ryzen 5 2600 is a capable all-around 6 core 12 thread CPU which comes with an effective stock cooler. At $139.99 it's a good fit for this budget. It plugs into an AM4 socket to enable an upgrade to an even more capable CPU later if desired.

The Gigabyte B450 Aorus mATX motherboard at $68.99 fits the budget. It has 4 memory slots to support a later memory upgrade if needed. Its VRMs are sufficient to support a CPU upgrade. It's relatively color neutral.

The Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 2 x 8GB DDR4-3200 memory sticks at $61.99 are a great buy on high quality memory. They are low profile which is not necessary for this build, but needed for others. They use Micron E die memory chips which have become the best memory to get for Ryzen since Samsung B dies have been discontinued. The white color matches the case.

The Team L5 Lite 480GB 2.5" SATA SSD is a good buy at $44.99 and will fit the case color. It provides good storage capacity for Windows and games. Using an SSD instead of a conventional hard drive as primary storage makes a huge difference in how fast a PC feels to use. You can add additional storage later if needed.

The MSI Radeon RX 580 8GB Armor OC at $159.99 is an exceptional price on a capable 1080P graphics card. The 8GB of memory will enable the card to "age well" as games use more and more memory over time.

The DIYPC D480 ATX mid tower case is white with blue lighting to match the keyboard and mouse. It's a good case with 5 fans pre-installed for ample cooling. At $49.96 it's reasonably priced as well.

The EVGA BR 500W power supply at $39.99 is a good buy on a quality power supply. It provides sufficient power for this build and some upgrades. It has cables which will look OK through the side window.

Total cost based on current prices of pcpartpicker components: $565.90 after shipping, promos and rebates. $634.90 before.

I'd continue to recommend the same Mechanical keyboard, mouse and monitor from Amazon for $189.87 total after clipping coupon and before sales tax. The LG monitor continues to be the better option for gaming at the same price if monitor color isn't an issue.

New grand total: $755.77 after promos, coupons and rebates.

Let me know your thoughts and questions.

There's a lot out there, and it can be tough figuring out where to begin even with the wiki. In my opinion, figuring out your needs and budget are the two most important things you can do when you're first jumping in.

• Needs -
  
  Ask yourself what you'll mainly be using your board for; are you a gamer that spends most of their time playing FPS, or do mainly use your board for work / school related activities? A little bit of both? Does your board need to be pack and go, or will it mainly be stationary at a pc? Do you want to build yourself or do you want a prebuilt that just works? Once you have a few basic requirements in mind, you can use those as a guideline to start to piecing together what you need for your situation. For example, I game a tiny bit but not enough to justify building a board around it. I do however spend quite a bit of time on my board for work and I travel quite often, so I wanted something portable that was ideal for hours of typing, and it had to have a navigation cluster. From there, I decided on a 65% board with tactile switches.
  
  
  
• Budget -
  
  It's easy to go down the rabbit hole and spend elevendy billion dollars on a custom board with all the bells and whistles, then come to find out out you don't like the layout, switch type, cap profile etc. There are MANY different price points out there; I can almost assure you that you can find something up your alley without breaking the bank. My first board that I mentioned above was a [Magic Force 68] (https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510046923&sr=8-3&keywords=magicforce+68+brown) that I got on sale for $30, and I still love that little thing. Since then I've built 3 custom boards and a macro pad, and I've got a few more builds in the works too, but I did it all bit by bit.
  
  After you figure out what your needs are and your budget, i suggest checking out switch types and figuring out what you think you'll like. If you're unsure, you can always grab a [switch tester] (https://www.novelkeys.xyz/product-category/switchtesters/) to help you narrow it down. and if you go the DIY route, [spacecat design] (http://shop.spacecat.design/) has a lot of great tools to get you started.
  
  I hope you find this helpful; this is really only scratching the surface. Don't be intimidated with all of the info; the more you hang around (kudos to you for jumping in after a week, I lurked for months before I asked any questions) the more you'll learn. It all starts to come together over time, so stick with it and don't be afraid to ask questions. Someone will point you in the right direction more often than not.
  
  If for some reason you do find yourself hanging though, feel free to message me and I'll be glad to help you out. :)

I don't know much about who sells / ships keyboards in the UK - I think you'd have to pay an unreasonable amount of shipping from the places I normally get keyboards from - so I've just compiled a few options from Amazon for you to check out.

In general, I'd recommend blue switches if you don't mind noise and want tactile feedback - but even the non-tactile reds (light) and blacks (a little heavier) clack when they bottom-out. Browns also have a small tactile bump without the click, but that bump is less pronounced. (There are many other options, but many of those aren't easily available off the shelf.)

While some generics aren't as good as genuine Cherrys, many are - and even the "worst" generics are still better than rubber domes.

My favorite brands are Filco, Leopold, and Ducky - but those usually scrape just (or much) above the £100 mark in the UK from what I can tell. Worth poking around for though, I think.

I believe Corsair and a few others have boards with numpads that delete the arrow keys instead as a possible space saving option.

Anyhow - here are a few possible options to kick off your search:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01CS99IYE/ref=mp_s_a_1_128?ie=UTF8&qid=1517949116&sr=1-128&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mechanical+keyboards&dpPl=1&dpID=51PIgj4mxEL&ref=plSrch

• Non-tactile switches (generic blacks)
  
• US layout
  
• Does have numpad
  
• Novel look (alu / white)
  
• Backlit (orange, I think)
  
• £39.99 w/ free shipping
  
  ---
  
  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B015MQH59A/ref=mp_s_a_1_135?ie=UTF8&qid=1517949450&sr=1-135&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mechanical+keyboards
  
  
• Tactile clicky switches (generic blues)
  
• US layout
  
• Does have numpad
  
• Novel look (alu / white)
  
• Backlit (blue)
  
• £46.99 w/ free shipping
  
  ---
  
  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01N7VS653/ref=mp_s_a_1_171?ie=UTF8&qid=1517949846&sr=1-171&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mechanical+keyboards
  
  
• Various switch options, genuine Cherry brand
  
• UK layout
  
• Does have numpad
  
• Black, but comes with some extra red keys
  
• Backlit (red)
  
• £99.99 depending on switch type, free shipping
  
  Feel free to PM and let me know if you have any specific questions along the way - and happy clacking!
  
  r/mechanicalkeyboardsuk is a great resource as well - those folks are sure to have more UK specific knowledge.
  

OK here's what I'd suggest:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $200.00
Motherboard | Asus Z97-AR ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $85.00
Memory | Crucial Ballistix 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $69.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $104.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $52.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card | $359.98 @ NCIX US
Case | NZXT H440 (Green/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.98 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | $271.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Rosewill RK-201 Wired Standard Keyboard | $5.99 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1400.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-27 14:03 EST-0500 |

##CPU

i5 4690k is arguably the best price/performance cpu you can get, and the most that is needed for most games. Also, it is unlocked meaning you can overclock it if you choose (but I'd highly recommend getting a cpu cooler for that)

##Mobo

CPU and mobo come from a Microcenter in-store bundle for $285. Z97 will allow you to OC your CPU and it has 2 PCI 3.0 slots so you can add another GPU later for SLI

##RAM

1866 speed, CAS latency 9. Some people gripe about using just one stick but the in-game benefit from a 2x4Gb vs a 1x8Gb is like 5 FPS max. 8 gigs is all you need for purely gaming

##Storage

Crucial MX100 has great price/performance for SSD storage, 256Gb for OS and most played games. WD Caviar Blue 1Tb HDD for everything else

##GPU

Gigabyte Windforce G1. One of the best (imho) and highest factory clocked 970s

##Case

H440 because it is a beautiful case with a window and a PSU shroud. If you like the design of the Fractal Design that /u/bkster recommended more, then go with the new Fractal Design Define R5

##PSU

80+ Gold (more power efficient), fully modular (better cable management), and 750w. Is more power than you need but not too much to the point of hurting efficiency. And despite what misinformation others offer, a PSU will only draw as much power as it needs

##OS

Windows 8.1

##Monitor

Went with the Asus VG248QE: 24", 1920x1080, 144hz, 1ms response time. Went with this because the 970 will absolutely destroy the games you listed, so the 144hz will allow you to see more the FPSs your rig will be putting out

##Keyboard

Went hella cheap here to fit in budget. Also I don't want to recommend spending $100+ on a mechanical keyboard before you figure out if a) mechanical keyboards are for you and b) what kind of switch you prefer. I'd suggest reading up on mechanical keyboard switches and maybe buy a Cherry MX switch tester before deciding to buy a mechanical keyboard. Also you could check out /r/MechanicalKeyboards

Currently running ICS on my A500, really loving it. It'd be nice if there were a keyboard dock like the W500. The dock connector is a complete and utter waste without something like that. No idea what Acer was thinking. I got a case which can stand up the tablet and a wireless keyboard/touchpad, and it works, but it doesn't even come close to the convenience of a Transformer-like dock/charger.

Other than that, I'm enjoying my Iconia. I got it from a Woot sale at the end of January (IIRC) for $300. I do wish I had just waited and gotten a premium tablet, but you get what you pay for, and I'm very satisfied with what I've got, especially considering how little I paid.

I came from an iPad 2 to an A500. I love having an easily accessible dev community, and I love being able to actually do stuff with my tablet. Even jailbroken, the iPad was unbearably locked down. I couldn't stand it. The main downside would be the loss of the App Store's abundance of tablet apps, but that's a problem all Android tablets have and I'm sure a problem which will be remedied as tablets and Android tablets in particular become more popular.

The OS itself is just gorgeous. iOS looks fine on phones, but it just doesn't fit on a tablet... you're missing out on so much functionality without widgets and the like. Even Honeycomb looks a ton better than iOS, and ICS simply blows it out of the water. Here's my desktop right now. Everything's so smooth and well designed, as it should be. iOS, on the other hand... it feels "chunky" or childish on a tablet. It doesn't work well in my opinion.

So that's my whole opinion. The tablet itself is great for the price. There aren't any glaring flaws (well, the GPS thing can be problematic, but that's patchable.) Android itself is a great OS, albeit one with a lacking selection of tablet apps. That selection is growing, though. I love my Iconia and, right now, there's really no reason to upgrade to anything different.

I'm trying to find a list of all 82/84 key-keyboards on the market that I can actually buy new. I know there's a longer list of discontinued stuff.

As of now I know of the: 84 Keycool, Cherry G-84
, KBT RACE II, Drevo 84, Keycool hero 84, Noppoo Choc mini 84.

Looking for an 84 key with media buttons and a function key on the bottom row. I'd like MX cherry stems so I can change out the caps easily but know other caps are available. If I could program the media button locations and order keys to match. That'd be awesome.

I'm pretty happy with the OUTEMU brown switches on my 68 key magicforce so I'll probably go with brown switches.

If anyone wants to recommend me an 84 key board with media keys and some function keys like an calculator button and board number pad that'd be awesome I'm all ears. The Keycool Hero I already linked looks like a winner

In my experience the keyboard itself comes down purely to personal preference, i.e. the design, material, key caps, brand etc. That is also what makes up most of the price other than features like wireless.

The thing that is gonna make or break your keyboard are the switches.

If there is nowhere where you can go and try out the keyboards in person, the next best thing to do is buy a Cherry MX Switch Tester

I have tried Blue, Red, Brown and Romer-G switches personally, and if you want to go by my opinion, then definitely go for either Blue or Red depending on whether you like clicky buttons or smooth. People say that Blue are better for typing and Red are better for gaming. Personally, I find both great for either task, just depends on your preference, again.

Brown and Romer-G (the ones on Logitech Pro Keyboard), which are very similar, feel mushy to me, kind of like pressing on crumpled foil, which to me is unpleasant especially for daily use.

My experience with different switches:


Logitech Pro was the last keyboard that I bought, using a Filco Majestouch 2 with Blue switches before that which I used for like 5? or more years.

Eventually I wanted a new keyboard and since I am big into gaming I decided to buy it because of it's reported amazing performance. At first it wasn't so bad and I got used to it, but eventually there was an accident and the keyboard ended up basically done for (my fault, nothing to do with the quality of the keyboard itself).

Needing a keyboard fast, I borrowed one with Red switches from a friend of mine and holy shit the difference was like night and day, like going from 30 fps on console to 144 on PC. I decided to buy a Filco Majestouch 2 keyboard with Red switches for myself and now I get excited whenever I need to use it just like when I got my first one with Blue switches.

Red switches are my personal favorites right now.

(If you are highly considering going for Browns instead of Reds I would recommend somehow borrowing a keyboard with Brown switches and using it for a day, then switching to Red and seeing how it goes. I personally didn't notice that much of a difference when trying both switches briefly, which can end up making you regret your choice like me)
___

As for recommendations:

For gaming I would 100% recommend a Tenkeyless keyboard. The key layout is different on keyboards with smaller sizes, which means that your muscle memory will need to adjust. Personally, I would not be willing to go through that, but if that is not a big deal for you and you're sure that you won't need the missing keys (arrow keys can be useful for things like even basic text editing in notepad or scrolling through search options in Google), then I don't see an issue with going with a smaller size.

A wired keyboard that I would recommend is Filco Majestouch 2

If you need a wireless keyboard then I would recommend Corsair K63

those Look Really Gaudy IMO

but for a better Budget setup that looks nicer too i would instead recommend the:

the Logitech GPro/102/203.
for your mouse it is a smaller mouse but fantastic build quality and a superior Senor definitly the best budget mouse you can get right now

for the keyboard either something like the MechanicalEagle Z-77 for TKL or the VicTsing Mechanical keyboard for Numpad users. these are cheaper Chinese board using Outemu Switches instead of Cherry making them more budget friendly but still certainly a lot better than the Rubber dome keyboard in the coolermaster bundle

edit: fixed the missing sentence

Well then may i give you the following suggestions?

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Customizable/dp/B01IRASQA0

This AUKEY keyboard comes up as highly recommended for those looking into mechanical keyboards for the first time and want RGB, in terms of quality control AUKEY seems to be also widely praised.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-K555-Redragon-illuminated-Equivalent/dp/B0171BSNYK

This is the keyboard I have, Redragon is also a well praised low budget mechanical keyboard company.
For me this keyboard is perfect, had it for almost a year now and by golly is it full featured and quite good to boot.
Redragon is certainly a good company from my research and so far so very very good.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Illuminated-Industrial-backlighted-EagleTec/dp/B015MPQQ0A

This one here actually has many color variations, Eagletec is a sub brand of Redragon so same rules apply... overall a good brand

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823201110

Rosewill has unleashed their own RGB mech keyboard at a great price with this one.
I have heard many great things about this keyboard.

As for any responses saying that cherry is the best mechanical switch and off brands are bad.... nope not these days.

Actually many argue the chinese knockoff switches are better than Cherrys current offerings.

With NVIDIA GeForce Experience, a free piece of software that works for any GTX 500-700 series graphics card will configure almost all games for you with the push of a button. You can build a PC for around $560 that is 26.1 liters, or if you're really concerned about size $600, which will be 14 liters which is still about twice the size of the XBox One, but it's still very mobile. You can access Netflix, Hulu, Crunchyroll, sports livestreams, a PC access pretty much all of the media either console can, unless I'm missing something. Using a PC isn't as difficult as people say it is. As long as you don't accidentally download crappy toolbars that bog down your web browser it's pretty easy, and you can, like I said before use GeForce Experience to do all the work for you. There are just as many, if not more casual games on PC compared to console. you can play something that's somewhat casual like Titanfall, or you can play side-scrollers like Fez, and Starbound. You do need a keyboard and a pointing device, however you can get a standard keyboard, you could get something along the lines of this which is not smaller than most keyboards, but it's wireless, and has a built in trackpad. If you have tiny thumbs you could use this. You can even use a wireless 360 controller as a pointing device, and use a chat pad as the keyboard. With the advent of steam joining another player's game is just as easy as on a console. If I see one of my friends is playing Borderlands 2 I can launch it up, click on his name, click join game, and I'm in. No pre-configuration required, just a steam account.

Hey, sorry for the late reply,
first and formost, you can add a separate cooling system if you like, it'll add a bit more to your cost and it's not necessary imo, but it would make the build more silent prob.
Then, I forgot to add a keyboard! a good option would be something like this if you like brown switches

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m9ehAb4VV8KZY

or something like this if you like red switches

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-STRAFE-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00ZUPOMDQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511838019&sr=1-3&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+red+switch

Lastly, if you want a good cheap monitor then this is a cheap good reliable option

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BRvZxr/benq-monitor-9hle5lbqpa

my only issue with it is that it is a lot smaller than the omen I recommended, so you might want to chose something a bit more on the expensive side that is also good like this

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PmyFf7/acer-monitor-umfg6aab01

or this

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FZJkcf/acer-xf240h-240-144hz-monitor-umfx0aa001

hope this helps! good luck on your build!

No problem at all! I have only managed to get my pi mildly warm, but I bet if you were doing something more CPU intensive (i.e. video) that the little chip could warm up pretty good. The pi has pins on it for sending signals and receiving inputs to and from electrical components. The ultimate kit comes with a cable and an adapter to plug into a breadboard that gives you easier access to those inputs and outputs. It's really nice to just play with stuff and not have to worry about soldering. The wires that come with the kit have special ends on them to pop right into the breadboard nicely. The resisters are needed to make use of the LEDs. If you hook up an LED directly the the 3.3V power, it will burn out. I'm speaking from experience as my kit is now 1 LED short. My first project was I can turn an LED light on and off through a webpage. I'd be happy to share my code for that.
To assemble the kit no soldering is required at all. Peel and stick the heat sink on the chip, snap the case together, and plug the wifi into a USB port. I have a cheap logitec wireless keyboard/trackpad combo unit with a usb adapter and that worked right off. I'm sure bluetooth would be the same.
If you're going to experiment with different projects, its nice to have multiple sd cards. Keep the 8gb card that comes with it for messing around, get a bigger card and put retropie on it for gaming.

> What do you use to game from your couch? Gamepad, keyboard/mouse combo?

An i5-4440, GTX960 2GB, 8GB DDR3 and a 3TB HDD. Used to have SteamOS on it, but replaced the base OS partition with Ubuntu 16.04 after a while and it definitely worth it.

Every game released for Linux is playable more than decently.

> Gamepad, keyboard/mouse combo?

2 Steam Controllers, 2 DS4 controllers and a DS3 (working natively through bluetooth) always at hand. Also, this little guy if I ever need a physical KB&M.

> What about your general computing tasks from the couch? Web browsing, Netflix, etc?

It's just a regular PC, so browsing and streaming are both done through Chrome.

Same with emulators (PCSX2, Dolphin, PPSSPP, etc.) and Wine games that require a controller are usable through xinput activator button in the controller for easy access to a Controller layout (here's an example of how it works).

So basically, this machine has replaced all of my consoles (PS3/4, WiiU) almost completely, so Steam in BP is the most used application on it, but on the proper desktop the SC as trackball mouse and its on-screen keyboard is the prefered input method.

Also, it also can be used and operated remotely through ssh so it can be left turned on and act as a server of sorts if required (for internal streaming, torrents, file sharing, etc), and Steam streaming work flawlessly both as host (can easily stream games from my desktop) or client (a roommate used this machine to play DOTA2 on his shitty laptop without issues).

Oh, and since last week, Rocket League with friends is awesome from the couch! Without even mentioning the quantity of other good couch games (like Towerfall, Assault Android Cactus, Trine, etc) available for linux ussually works mixing and matching any controller.

Hope this helps in your set up.. Enjoy your new console-killer!

Some suggestions for keyboard/mice:

Lenovo N5902. Goes on sale regularly.

Logitech K400

Generic keyboard/touchpad remote. There are many slight variants on this.

I've found that due to the size/shape/content of my living room, a wireless receiver plugged into my HTPC doesn't work 100% reliably. I've connected a USB extension cable to the back of my HTPC and run it behind things and under my couch to give me the best reception. Generally you can go up to 15 feet; any longer than that and you need a powered extension.

If you have a Logitech Harmony remote, I highly recommend the OVU4003/00 (RC6) USB IR reciever. Once set up with Windows and the Harmony remote, it works with XBMC/Kodi out of the box. This receiver was branded as HP/Dell/Gateway/Philips and probably many more. A Flirc is another option but it is ugly (IMO) and more expensive.

Regarding hardware, if you aren't gaming you don't need a lot. When using older gear the most important thing is video hardware acceleration. For Intel machines, you need something with at least GMA 4500 (Q45 chipset) graphics or later, and for AMD you need something with at least a 760G chipset. This hardware dates back to 2008/2009. Dedicated graphics cards should be at least a Radeon HD 2600 or a GeForce 8500. These cards date back to 2006/2007. CPUs are a grey area, but any mainstream dual core CPU (Athlon X2, Core 2 Duo) from 2007+ should be able to handle most everything. My first HTPC had an AMD Athlon X2 5000+ and it's still working just fine with W7 and Kodi.

If you want to game (and don't want to use a device like the DOKO), you'll need to find a quiet case that supports full length video cards. There are a bunch available, and I'm not sure if this has changed in the last 2-3 years, but the vast majority of HTPC cases large enough to support full size gear and M-ATX motherboards are simply too long to fit in a standard A/V rack or TV stand. The only exceptions I am aware of are the Silverstone GD05 and GD04. I'd be willing to bet that Silverstone has some other cases that will work also.

Additionally, you'll want to find a PSU, case fans and CPU cooler that are quiet and efficient. The best resource for this is http://www.silentpcreview.com/.

Lastly, if your A/V receiver has only S/PDIF audio inputs (no HDMI) and you want to play games in 5.1 surround sound, you're going to need to find either a sound card or motherboard with an S/PDIF output that supports DTS-Connect and/or Dolby Digital Live. Motherboards stopped coming with this around 2008 (AFAIK) and the cheapest option to get it in an add-on card is the Sound Blaster Z.

Excellent build. I have nearly identical requirements to you and my rig is very similar to yours.

The processor I used was the A8-3870k (it was cheaper for me than the 3850 in Canada) and I went with a micro ATX setup because the case of my choice was mATX.

You will have no problems with that processor. It's simply a monster. Plays and processes flawlessly. XBMC runs perfect. I've got my OS and programs on a 120GB SSD so everything is snappy!

1. For the SSD mounting, you can pick up adapters for less than $10 that let you mount them into standard 3.5" bays. However, someone above mentioned using velcro which is a simple alternative and should work fine.
   
   
2. Wifi cards are a dime a dozen nowadays so you'll probably have to get a standard card. Just get one that's wireless n compatible with a solid speed (you can get a wireless n 300 Mbps card for about $30). Your router may not even be that fast so you can adjust accordingly.
   
   
3. I know you said you didn't want a keyboard/mouse but this one is really good I swear: [Logitech K400] (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-920-003070/dp/B005DKZTMG). It looks nice and is very useful. You'll need a keyboard whenever you need to tweak things or use the web browser so this thing is great.
   
   I have the K400 and also a cheap [MCE remote] (http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Microsoft-Center-Control-Receiver/sim/B006TPPVKE/2) which is great for non-tech savvy people in my house.
   
   
   Overall I think you'll be very pleased with that build. Have fun!

Hello!
My budget is around 60 euros. I don't mind how big it is. TKL is fine, even 65% or 60% is fine. Don't really want/need full size.
I've taken a look at a lot of keyboards. It's hard to fine good ones, but this is what i've found. I must note 3 things: 1. My parents are involved in the decision. 2. I like all switches exept MX reds. 3. I live in europe but can order in USA (my father works in the US, he can bring it home)

This list is ordered in most intersted to least interested.

1. Anne Pro 60% keyboard with RGB lights and Gateron switches 65 euros shipped to Belgium. Would go for Gateron Blue switches. Only reason I haven't ordered is, is because my parents don't really want to order from Banggood (Chines website)
   
2. Magicforce 68 30-60 euros. Good deal, but I don't like the white keyboad, and the black keyboards are very rare.
   
3. Drevo Gramr 84-keyboard 40 euros, backlight. Seems like a good deal.
   
4. Ajazz RGB keyboard Looks like a good deal for 56 euros. RGB lights, apparantly very nice (the lights)
   
5. Drevo Calibur RGB For 50 USD, looks alright
   
6. E-element keyboard again, a cheap RGB keyboard. Find it weird that RGB is an option at my price point.
   These are some I think are nice.
   I also had my eye on a 40 USD reddragon keyboard.
   
   So, I know everyone's probably gonna be like: Go for the Anne Pro. And trust me, I would want to. But my parents don't like ordering from unknown websites, defintly as it ships for China.
   Any other suggestions?

Ok, I'll give it a go since no one seems to have given you a decent answer.

TL;DR - Your Macbook keyboard is probably one of the quieter keyboards types out there already. There are other options, but you should probably see if you can find them in person before shelling out over a hundred dollars on something that may not work for you.


Your Macbook uses what's called a scissor switch. Basically two pieces of plastic with a small metal wire acting as a spring, laying over a rubber dome. When depressed, the contact under the dome completes the circuit and your keyboard registers the keystroke.

Quite frankly, scissor switches (also known as "chiclet keyboards") are some of the more quieter options out there.

What you're probably experiencing is called 'bottoming out' - basically it's not really the switches making the noise, it's you smashing the keys so hard that it's the thud sound of the key going as far down as it can, and hitting what's underneath (more or less).

You've got a couple of options here...

There are a few cheap, rubber dome keyboards (ie: the generic full-sized keyboards you usually see packaged with new computers) which market themselves as 'quiet keyboards'. The Logitech K120 is a good example of this. Most of these "quiet" boards go with the theory that the shorter space between pressing and activating the switch means less downforce, making less of a thud if you bottom out.

If you want to spend money and are looking towards mechanical keyboards, the Toper Realforce is generally considered one of the quietest (Topre's not really a mechanical switch, but that's nitpicking). There are also mods you can do to the keyboard to make them even quieter.

The other option being that you can go the Cherry MX switch route and pick a switch which requires a lot of downforce to activate. I'd suggest something like a Light or Dark Grey (depending on if you want or don't want a 'bump' feeling - neither click). You can also mod Cherry switches by adding rubber o-rings to help soften the sound of bottoming out (as well as the mod listed above in the Topre area). For more information about Cherry switches, see here. I will say that the heavy keys can get pretty intense. I have a MX Green board that I love for gaming (because I don't accidentally click keys I don't mean to), but it's not comfortable for long periods of typing - but I'm not a super heavy-handed typer either.

I'd suggest hitting up a computer store - a Best Buy or Microcenter or Fry's. All of these stores should have some good in store options to play around with as far as rubber dome, chiclet, and mechanical keyboards go. If you want to play around with a Topre, you're probably going to have a much harder time tracking one down unless you live in a big metropolitan area with a few specialty stores.

You can also find various switch testers on sites like Massdrop. They bundle a bunch of (generally Cherry) switches on a single mounted board so you can see how they feel. They don't make the best typing analog though.

Suggestions when all I care about is 6KRO?

I don't dislike Rubber Domes, but losing key inputs from ghosting is awful. I've had a chance to try Cherry Blues and Cherry Blacks - Blacks I liked less than Rubber Dome; Blues were about equal but entirely too loud (I'm a streamer and I don't want loud keyboard noises picked up on the microphone). Desired specs:

• 6KRO. NKRO would obviously be fine but shouldn't be necessary.
  
• Full-sized keyboard (with large backspace and standard 2-row Ins-Home-PgUp) - I've heard tenkeyless is better ergonomically but I simply use the numpad too much.
  
• The quieter the better, but doesn't need to be silent.
  
• No macro keys on the sides; standard width. (Standard height is also preferable but less essential.)
  
• Other bonuses are likely irrelevant to me: I don't care about lighting, fancy keycaps, or modability.
  
• Either USB or PS/2 is fine, wired is fine (preferable?)
  
  So - I'd be perfectly happy with a Rubber Dome keyboard that had 6KRO, but these are rare and tend to cost as much as decent switches anyway. I can afford up to ~$200, but considering I currently have a preference for Rubber Dome much of what increases a keyboard's price isn't something I'm interested in paying for.
  
  Thus, I'm considering perhaps the Velocifire VM01, with off-brand Brown Switches and good ratings (I'd also get o-rings with it). I'd even consider e.g. a low-end Topre but am not convinced I'd find the extra cost worth it? Open to other suggestions as well.

The biggest question you want to answer for any mechanical keyboard is which type of switch you want.

Most exclusive gamers like linear switches, which let you double tap very effectively. These are usually sold as 'red' switches.

There's also clicky switches, which have a sharp bump and audible click when the key actuates. Sold as 'blue' switches.

Then there's tactile switches, which have a lighter bump when the key actuates (they're as quiet as reds). They're sold as browns, and are somewhat of an intermediate between red and blue.

Generally speaking, blues are for exclusively typing, reds for exclusively gaming, and browns are good for a mixture. I'd recommend going to a Fry's/Microcenter/Best Buy (in that order) and finding which of the three you prefer on a in store model. Brands vary between their implementation of clickly/tactile/linear, but not too much.

Then, figure out whether you need programmable macros and such. I usually play games that really don't require them, so it's a non issue for me.

If so, that tends to be the one feature that gaming marketed keyboards have over the others at this price point. Coolermaster is generally the only gaming themed company I respect much. Their stuff is well priced, and makes some cool innovations. And their keys have a standard layout.

If no, then you have a ton of good options and budget plays a big role. You could get the wireless Anne pro. The rgb Ducky Shine. Or the excellently budgeted Magicforce 68. You could get a WASD keyboard and completely customize individual keycap color.

Any of those would be good options, as well as more but it's probably already overwhelming.

Note all keyboard mouse combos use Esc for back. Need to use enter to select at main menu but sub menus the mouse select works

Mele f10
have to flip over for Esc/back button. Works good pretty accurate. Cue and rewind work in circle select area. Have to flip over and hit space bar to play/pause
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0092KDSQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407764634&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Logitech K400. keyboard/touch pad my favorite but big. Home button works as home. Play/pause, cue and rewind keys work
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DKZTMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407764657&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

T2 Air Mouse - DO NOT BUY, performs terribly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DIXSPA8/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?qid=1407765051&sr=8-18&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Sabrent USB hub, works perfectly but bright LEDs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BWF5U0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407766089&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Logitech N5902, exceedingly akward IMHO. Worked great with HTPC but not good with FireTV. BTW do not buy at amazon if you think you may want one it is too expensive. If more than $30 you are paying too much. Once again not good for FireTV but good for HTPC.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OTXLLC?pc_redir=1407493041&robot_redir=1

No need to apologize. I certainly haven't owned every board out there, so the best I can do is take a look at reviews to feature set with you.


So first, let's decide some things.
Do you want a backlight? If so, does it need to be RGB?


What size board do you prefer? I would suggest going no lower than tenkeyless if you're using it at all for some professional work, only because it could temporarily slow down your work rate because some keys will be in different positions or missing entirely. This may take getting used to. If you're up for that, that's cool too. Full size boards have a numberpad, some are larger with "macro" keys. There are variations with fewer keys, that maybe don't have arrow keys etc. and are slightly smaller. Then there's tenkeyless, which has no numbpad, and then smaller variations often with no function keys or arrow keys, with their functions require key combos.


We've got a price range, and we're going for mechanical, but I'm wondering how much branding and brand names matter to you. There are some boards out there with big logos, and they can be ugly as sin, doesn't affect functionality, but cosmetics are worth considering on something you look at daily. Next, do you need a brand that's "famous?" It may be hard to find a RAZER, Corsair, CoolerMaster, or other big names in the industry under $40, depending on your required feature set.

Finally, that brings us to switch type. There's a lot of brands of switch style, and if I had to guess, you're probably gonna have trouble finding Cherry MX, the most iconic switch type, in this range. That said, some of the "copy" switches are nearly identical and have pretty solid build quality, differences only noticeable by the most sensitive of typists. So here's a quick break down of the most popular switch types:

Blue: Tactile Bump during actuation, can feel it and hear it(loudest switch, clicks on bump, clacks when the key "bottoms out" or is pressed all the way down)

Brown: Very light tactile bump(I don't really feel it if I've just been typing on my blue or Razer green switch board), makes a sound when bottoming out. This is considered the happy medium, somewhat silent, can be made very quiet with an accessory, still had tactile feedback.

Red: Silent, linear switches. Not whisper silent, but much quieter, no noise or tactile bump when the keypress is actuated. I really don't think you'll be able to snag a new board with these.

Black: Silent, almost exactly like reds, but require more force to press down, they're not too popular as people complain they make their fingers tired. However, I see them a lot under budget boards.


The Blue, Brown and Reds are the most common. There are more switches out there, and some brands use different colors to associate the style, but the styles are largely the same.


I'm gonna link(not affiliate links) some boards, just to show the styles and backlighting options off, these are mostly a bit out of your price range, but this should give you a general idea of what they look like, and how much extra things like RGB cost:

Pretty standard tenkeylessboard: https://www.amazon.com/TOMOKO-Water-Resistant-Mechanical-Keyboard-Non-Conflicting/dp/B01DBJTZU2/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1520206833&sr=8-31&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


A compact board, I believe it's a 75% variation: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Keyboard-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520205858&sr=8-4&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


Tenkeyless RGB: https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Mechanical-Redragon-illuminated-ABS-Metal/dp/B019O9BLVY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520205858&sr=8-5&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


Fullsize board, the standard: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Programmable-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B073QPDZHQ/ref=sr_1_45?ie=UTF8&qid=1520206906&sr=8-45&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


Now, these are mostly "cheap" brands, in that they're not ultra famous like RAZER, or Corsair, etc. But, these are some of the more highly rated boards. Of course, you absolutely do not have to buy from amazon either, and these are mostly out of the range, so please get back to me on the style and backlighting options you'd like. I think one of these "knock off" brands will be your best bet, particularly if you want backlighting. Other users are of course free to offer advice too.


Once you tell me, generally, the size, and switch type we're after, we can try to find some boards that are on sale, not just the stuff I quickly found that was relatively cheap and well reviewed. Sometimes you can get something that seems a decent price, for even less if you watch and wait. So that might be worth considering too.

Please let me know your preferences, and I hope my explanations were somewhat clear.

For some people this might look like a good deal. Nice packaging, printed documentation, all in a nice kit. There is a market for it and I'm sure they'll sell plenty.

The bright colors and fancy box do jack for me. And lets be frank. Most children, which this product is aimed at, won't care either what color the keyboard is or how nicely it's packaged. They'll only care what they can do with it, and there's already a huge community around the Raspberry Pi to give children cool stuff to play with.

You can spec out all of this stuff for almost $50 less and have the newer model Pi. Sure, for some people, this looks like a great deal. For me, without a screen/monitor, it's no good.

• Keyboard, $28, http://amazon.com/dp/B005DKZTMG
  
• Speakers, $9, http://amazon.com/dp/B000R9AAJA
  
• Ethernet cable, $6, http://amazon.com/dp/B001TH7GVE
  
• Raspberry Pi B+ Kit, $64, http://amazon.com/dp/B008XVAVAW (includes sd card, wifi adapter, case power adapter hdmi cord)
  

Okay, so I've owned a Corsair K65 for a year now and still barely know anything about mechanical keyboards, but I'm learning more everyday. I love the MX Cherry Reds I have on it and have o-rings to dampen the noise, but I want something equally quiet or even quieter with some more feedback. I don't like clicky so I think MX Browns are good, if anyone has suggestions for me i'd appreciate it. I want a more compact keyboard, but I can't live without arrow keys, so I think a 68-key is best for me, and ideally it would be both wired and wireless, but that seems like a rare find. So either wired or wireless is fine, I just hate the bulky wire on my Corsair. I've also got a Tai-Hao Hawaii keyset coming in a couple months from Massdrop.


Now for my big question, can someone tell me the big difference between these two keyboards and why the prices are so different? Why would it be worth it to save up for the Varmilo?

Varmilo

Magicforce

I choose the keyboard on your list. Why? Because, when you 'treat yo self', you aren't supposed to buy practical things. It's a treat. You don't feed a dog it's normal meal, and call it a treat! YOU GIVE HIM A TREAT! SO TREAT YO SELF! And because it's a badass keyboard, and makes pc gaming that much more sweet. So you can relax and enjoy yo self after you treat yo self. ;)

I NEED DIS RIGHT MEOW. Why? Because, I have a TON of rare cards piling up, and I have literally nowhere to put them! I NEDZ DEM PROTEKTID.

Batman Suit.

Logitech G240 Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad for Low-DPI Gaming $14.99 ($19.99 - $5.00)

Logitech G13 Programmable Gameboard with LCD Display $38.99 ($79.99 - $41.00)

Logitech G400s Optical Gaming Mouse $31.99 ($59.99 - $28.00)

Logitech G700s Rechargeable Gaming Mouse $49.99 ($99.99 - $50.00)

Logitech G510s Gaming Keyboard with Game Panel LCD Screen $59.99 ($119.99 - $60.00)

Logitech G35 7.1-Channel Surround Sound Headset $59.99 ($129.99 - $70.00)

Logitech G710+ Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Tactile High-Speed Keys - Black $94.00 ($149.99 - $55.00)


Logitech G19s Gaming Keyboard with Color Game Panel Screen $99.99 ($199.99 - $100.00)

edit: Are there any of these that I would have to be put to death for not ordering? :D I have this hole in my pocket you see...

edit2: swapped ending price and discount on G710+ - would have been a much better deal though...

edit3: prices are beginning to rise back to normal/sell out. Sad days.

edit4: Amazon is apparently going to try to get re-stocking done throughout the day to allow more purchases at the sale price. If it's out of stock when you look the first time, check again in a while. I'll try to keep this list up-to-date as best I can.

edit5: Even better, for me anyway. Looks as if if they are going to stop re-stocking the items, they are completely removing the item from the page I linked. If you see a strike-throughd item above, it WAS here, now it's gone Johnson. Again, will update as I can.

edit6: Nope. Bastards are re-adding items to the page... grumble grumble... :D

edit7: I decided to dig a little bit, and turns out, if you follow my links in this post rather than only relying on just the deal page itself, they are updated more frequently and accurately. So, use these links in conjunction to the thread title, and you may very well benefit! Still updating, sleepy times soon though... Maybe...

edit8: That's all, she wrote! Some of the items prices are retaining their sale value as of this last edit, so, maybe it'll be a new list price for them, who knows, but I am marking the sale as over, since the link is now officially pointed into oblivion.. Thanks for the wonderful day of sales and discussions, and for those of you who got some new equipment, congratulations! Hope you enjoy them!

Do you know what switches? You should try some mechanical keyboards at Best Buy or Microcenter to get a feel for the different switch types.

Generally, you are better to get a separate wrist rest, as most any that come with a keyboard are just cheap plastic. Personally, I like my Grifiti for a wrist rest.

As you are used to using a Laptop keyboard, and presumably want a more portable keyboard, I would suggest a 60%.

The Magicforce 68 I a great bargain. There is nothing that equals the build quality in this price range.

For a bit more, and even better build, would be the KB Paradise V60 in Clears or Gateron Browns. Clears and Browns are tactile, yet quiet switches. Generally they are considered good for both gaming and typing.

For a bit more, there is the Pok3r. You get a metal case, and programmable keys over the V60.

60% keyboards have everything a larger Tenkeyless have in keys, but some keys like Home are only available by pressing the Function key.

If you want a TKL, then your best options are a CM Storm QFR or Ducky One TKL. CM makes a good quality board. Ducky is better but correspondingly costs more.

Velocifire VM01 Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Brown Switches LED Illuminated Backlit Anti-ghosting Keys (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Euf5ybQSEJZDK


i have this one, but they also have a tenkeyless for 30 here.


Velocifire TKL01 Tenkeyless Mechanical Keyboard with Brown Switches LED Backlit 87 Keys Gaming Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS8YTYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3uf5ybD850CZJ


As an owner of this board, I'll say this board is pretty awesome, but takes about a week or two to get used to. Awesome for gaming and typing, but feel might resemble that of an mx red in terms of actuation. The sound and click is definitely still there but subtle like it should be on a brown switch. Coming from redragon kumara blue switch board, it took awhile to get used to, but the sound difference was enough alone to make me happy. (:

Well, the main thing to me is that I think they feel better. Not everyone will agree, but many people think they feel really nice. There are a lot of options so you can find the keyswitch that's perfect for you!

They are really customizable. My other mechanical keyboard is Portal themed. I gave it orange and blue colors and ordered some custom keycaps. It's a lot of fun to get it exactly how you want it.

There are so many options. This is kind of intimidating at first but after the initial purchase it's really exciting. This is where a lot of the expensiveness comes from. You want more just to have more and try everything. There are different sizes and layouts, and there are different switches and brands.

In the end it just comes down to wanting to enjoy your typing experience more. I'd say if you're interested get a switch tester and see if you like any of them more than the keyboard you're using right now :)

For the mouse you don't need to spend a bunch of money to get something good, here's the mouse my friend uses. http://www.amazon.com/E-3lue-EMS109BK-Precision-Control-1600dpi/dp/B005CPGHAA/ His only complaint is he can't turn off the LED on it, which could be a problem if you don't like it. You could spend a bit more for a better mouse such as the Deathadder or Steelseries Rival (I personally own the rival, great mouse)

For keyboards, it's up to you if you want mechanical or membrane. Mechanical will be more expensive but it's nicer to type on and feels better. This is a very basic membrane keyboard, it works. Here is a good mechanical. (FYI it doesn't use the standard Cherry MX keyswitches most mechs use, although they still feel better then membrane). You can also look at Corsair's keyboards, Corsair's, and other manufactures mechanical keyboards.

For the monitor I'm assuming you want something decent, 1080p, 60hz? Here is a 24 inch 1080p 60hz monitor, you could look at cheaper ones too. It really depends on what you want. I use 2 23 inchers that I got for $100 and they work fine for my uses.

Good luck!

It depends on who you ask and what switches you use. I started off with Cherry MX Brown switches, but I can tell you right now that I never really liked them. It isn't to say they weren't better than rubber dome, they were, but I didn't really care about them. They didn't 'feel' that great to me, just slightly less mushy and uncertain.

After a few years with my first mech, I switched to a much cheaper keyboard with Outemu Blue switches and I can say that I love it. Some say they don't like the clicky-ness but I love every thing about it. It's so satisfying and really honestly feels really good while typing. The best keyboard I have ever used was an IDM Model M2 keyboard that I regret selling, and it was very clicky and awesome.

This is the keyboard that I have. I like TKL keyboards, my last two have been this form factor and most cheap Mechs are this size as well. Some people can't get rid of their ten keypad but I used it so rarely, I'd rather have the more ergonomic setup as well as desk space. This was the cheapest keyboard around at the time, but there are some that are cheaper now.

I've used Rosewill and Velocifire mechanicals for work. They run in the $40-100 price range and feel pretty good. The one I'm using right now at work is the Velocifire VM01 it's $40. The browns they use aren't cherry so they feel a bit different(not as stiff) - but it feels good.

The Rosewill felt the best though if you don't mind a red switch it's $80 - browns etc run upwards of $100. I suggest browns for typing (if you speed type) and clears/reds for gaming or if you're a heavy typer.

I like the Velocifier because of the backlighting. And it's really good backlighting with a nice soft aqua green glow and multiple effects. Really makes people ask questions at work LOL.

Hi everyone! I have a few questions about a few different things.

1. I recently purchased a Salmon on Ice v2 keyboard (Whitefox PCB) as my first dive into custom boards, and though it sounds pleasant when typed with, it requires a huge amount of force to actuate when compared to the standard Brown or Red switch. I currently have an Akko 3068 and Varmilo VB87m (both with Brown switches) and both are so much easier to game/type on for extended periods of time. I wanted to lube the switches to see if that would help, so I bought this lube but I'm honestly terrified about taking the board apart since I spent ~$240 on it. I also tried some O-Rings, but they didn't seem to help much. Any suggestions or advice would be incredibly appreciated.
   
2. I am also looking to get my girlfriend a board, and she wants something similar to GMK Samurai or GMK Bento keycaps; basically anything with secondary Japanese characters on the caps. Those probably go for ~150-200 for the set, so something cheaper with similar aesthetics is what I'm looking for. She wants a white casing, so I was going to go with this with some nice keycaps. Any recommendations on a cheaper/similar version of those keycaps, as well as maybe a better (or wireless) 65%/TKL base to use!
   
   Sorry if it was a wall of text/unclear, but any help would be greatly appreciated :) I can answer any clarifying questions relatively quickly.

Are you even a little bit tech savvy? Part of why there isn't a real bundled solution to this is because it's pretty easy to just make your own.

Find a Raspberry Pi. Install a basic OS (Arch or something) with an editor like Emacs or Vim, and nothing else. Get a housing that can accommodate a little LCD panel like the one in the Freewrite. Pick a keyboard you like. Boom. You have your own personal Freewrite for under $100.

In terms of keyboards, you can get really nice "portable" mechanical keyboards like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Element-Mechanical-Keyboard-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=portable+mechanical+keyboard&qid=1574228057&sr=8-9

Find one with the switches you want, and you're off to the races.

For getting your materials off the computer, there are 3 major ways:

1. Set up SSH (it's easy) so you can access your Pi's filesystem from any computer via the internet
   
2. Remove the Pi's micro SD card and put it in a computer, read files manually
   
3. Save all files on a USB stick or something similar
   
   This is what your typical writing experience would look like on a setup like this: http://jasonwryan.com/images/post_images/distract-full.png
   
   ​
   
   Let me know if you have any questions! This sounds like it could be a fun little project. I may do it too.

I'd recommend installing the OS on a usb 3.0 flash drive and just booting from the sd card.

Also it seems you're set on raspbmc but I'd honestly recommend openelec as it does have a slight performance advantage. See here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYfU7v_FO6U

Here is the flash drive I'm running xbmc off of:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121155982425?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648

I also recommend overclocking (I'm at 1GHz) and doing a 256/256 memory split to get a balance of smooth menu navigation and video playback performance.

My setup has the hub and a wireless card plugged directly into the pi. Then the USB Flash drive running the os, my 1.5tb external hd (for media), and a wireless dongle for my keyboard remote plugged into the powered hub.

Also, once you get everything installed I recommend you take a look at XBMCHub and install the unofficial repos using fusion. I'd recommend installing Transmission (turn xbmc into a torrent server that can download straight to your external hd), Project Free TV, Navi-X, Icefilms, 1Channel, I Watch Online, Sports Devil, Youtube, and VEVO. There are lots of other plugins but you can browse through the repos and choose the ones you like best.

I'm planning on getting my first mechanical keyboard and could really use some advice. At the moment, I'm torn between:

1. KBParadise V80 TKL
   
2. KUL ES-87
   
3. Qisan MagicForce
   
   The first two use Cherry MX Clears and I'm not really sure how to judge the relative quality of the boards. Does anybody have any opinions on that? The third option is an inexpensive board using OUTEMU blues. That's me wondering whether I should dip my foot in the water a little bit before committing to something more expensive.
   
   I used a Cherry Mx Blue keyboard for a couple of minutes recently and my first reaction was that the keys were surprisingly light and easy to bottom out. I then bought a switch tester and found the Clears to seem nicest; quiet with a strong tactile bump and a high force after actuation to prevent bottoming out. I'm just wondering if I only prefer this due to familiarity because I'm used to using the old-style Thinkpad keyboards which are most similar to the Clears. Maybe if I forced myself to use a lighter keyboard then I would adjust and end up loving it. Or maybe I should get Greens or Browns as a bit of a compromise.
   
   So, if anybody has any advice on the V80 TKL vs the KUL ES-87 then that would be awesome. I would also love to hear any broader advice on whether I should trust my first impressions or just start with a more popular and less expensive switch to see how I adjust. I'm sure that plenty of people here have made a similar transition from rubber domes.

Looks good.

It needs a slot loaded drive. Unfortunately your options are limited and kind of pricey.

Windows 8 has an advantage in application support and compatibility. However it's possible that Linux can also cover all your needs. Plex, XBMC and Steam are all available for Linux. I'm fairly sure you won't have any issues with Plex or XBMC but I can't say the same with Steam. I've read that it's possible to stream to the Linux Steam client but I haven't heard much more than that.

I use the Logitech k400. It's pretty much widely recommend on this sub because it's fairly cheap and works really well.

I don't have much experience with Chromecast so I can't offer much advice. It's a fairly popular product though so there should be plenty of reviews around.

A HTPC is capable of much more than just serving media. Whereas a Chromecast has a much more limited feature set. It really depends on how much you value the extra features a HTPC offers. PC gaming on your couch through a big screen is pretty sweet though.

Neither does the purchase of the xbox. You don't put your entertainment center's cost into it.

You're also failing to remember that TVs have HDMI ports, and so do GPUs. You can use a controller with your PC in pretty much every game that isn't an MMO or a DOTA clone.

As far as the keyboard and mouse, you could easily start with two $10 shitters. I have a Corsair K70 RGB (blue) that I'm typing this on right now, but before I had this, I was typing on a Logitech K120, and for a membrane keyboard, it was actually really good.

EDIT: Just read the bit about the OS. It's true that Windows is sort of expensive, but Linux is slowly (and actually measurably, not just "ITS YEAR OF LENOX GUIZE") becoming a very viable gaming platform. Loads of games are coming out for Linux because of SteamOS, and lots of AAA titles now too. Borderlands and the witcher series come to mind. There are also ways to get legitimate Windows licenses for free (if you're a student) or nearly free. In the future, there may even be completely free versions of windows, and windows 10 is a completely free upgrade to anyone running 7 or up.

this is my current htpc setup

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-3225 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor |-
Motherboard | Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard |-
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $76.97 @ OutletPC
Storage | Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $126.45 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | XFX Radeon HD 7750 1GB Video Card |-
Case | Lian-Li PC-TU200B Mini ITX Tower Case | $154.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $34.99 @ Micro Center
| | Total
| prices are missing ahhhh | ~ $650
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-12 18:09 EST-0500 |

along with one of these http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Built-In-Multi-Touch/dp/B005DKZTMG

my computer's over kill for a htpc but alright as a lightweight gaming rig. super meat boy and bioshock both play fine, and i cant imagine civ5 playing that horribly.

movies/tv are stored on a nas, which ive mapped as a network drive. xbmc is great for watching movies but vlc or literally any other video player will work fine.

I have plex set up on my nas but it's for my friends, not me; the last time i was on plex was when I had to reboot my server to restart plex...
plex does not stream games, but steam does if you have a second computer running because im on a full windows 7 desktop.

as for your last point, I love my k400. im using it right now, surfing reddit from my couch. I havent launched steam in a while but it would be fantastic if they could play local video from big picture mode. its possible there might be some add-ons that do this but ive done no research on it so idk, so you could set it up so that when you turn your htpc on it automatically launched steam in big picture mode

I haven't personally used these, but I've found some that have decent reviews. As /u/Faiter119 suggested, Logitech is a very trusted brand. The K120 is your basic, plain old keyboard.

There is also the Amazon Basics keyboard, which I would trust right off the bat as they provide decent quality electronics.

If you're willing to get a bit adventurous, I found the BlueFinger backlit keyboard that also comes with a mouse (for a promotion), but has no reviews because it won't be released until the 11th. This is the best $30 keyboard I've ever seen, to be honest. It looks legit, and their other keyboards are the same basic design and all get 4-5 stars, so I would take the risk. Amazon is always really cool about giving full refunds on products in case it doesn't work out.

Really depends on what feature set you're looking at.


Rule of thumb is that if you're seeing aggressive marketing from a company, their boards suck. Don't buy corsair, don't buy razor, don't buy Logitech. These can be worth your time if you get them seriously marked down but that rarely happens today.


If you just want a generic, entry level mechanical keyboard, Red Dragon is a stupidly good place to start. 49 bucks for a full feature keyboard with RGB LED's.


If you want the smaller form factor you have other choices too.


>But I don't care about LED's, I just want a keyboard that's durable!


Then you're buying the god father of the modern keyboard- either the IBM Model M, or it's family of virtual clones from Unicomp


>But I want to play video games like a pro and that's not even a mechanical keyboard!


Correct! The Model M is a membrane keyboard which limits it's ability to register repeated key strikes. It's also the best keyboard on the market for general use because of it's robust after market. Unicomp makes sure there's a healthy after market for replacement parts and use a grade of plastic that actually holds up well and doesn't yellow.


If you really need a full mechanical keyboard I'd still direct you back to the top. Buy a Red Dragon.

That's quite possible. I don't understand how anyone could ever be confused by computers. Using the terminal to move files from your server to your HTPC (Though there's no need to, just stream from the server) is so easy.

Of course setting it up can be complicated, it's definitely not plug and play. I thought about stating a business on the side setting up HTPCs for people, but I doubt I wanna deal with support.

I think I have mine set up pretty well, my girlfriend knows exactly how to use it. Windows 7, WMC auto-boots (not that the computer is ever off) Logitech K400 is my remote. Hulu, netflix, yahoo plugins on WMC.. super simple.

I'd also like to say that that keyboard is amazing. Small, not too small. The left click button ( wish it had right too) on the upper left lets you use trackpad with right thumb, click with left thumb. I'd recommend it to anyone with a htpc.

Pretty much any keyboard or mouse will work, though I'm 90% sure only the basic functions will work, so dont go out buying like some super legit gaming keyboard and mouse with a ton of extra macro buttons and functions on them, as im pretty sure none of that will work. Best bet is to just get a basic wireless keyboard and mouse imo, that way you can use them from wherever youre sitting with your wireless controller. Personally I use mainly just the controller, and a keyboard for typing, but I don't really need a dedicated mouse for playing the game since again, I use the gamepad, so I personally use this guy- https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG Since the only thing I really use the mouse for in FF14 is rearranging/resizing my UI, a trackpad is good enough for basic stuff like that, and I like the convenience of having it all their in one package. So I just play with my controller and have the keyboard sit in my lap or just sitting next to me so I can just grab it when I need it to type or like I said want to rearrange my UI or whatever.

Here's a white-themed high-power gaming rig for you.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | £288.00 @ Amazon UK
CPU Cooler | Deepcool - CAPTAIN 240EX WHITE 153.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | £79.98 @ Ebuyer
Motherboard | MSI - Z270 TOMAHAWK ARCTIC ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | £127.97 @ Ebuyer
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | £128.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £79.68 @ Aria PC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £54.60 @ Aria PC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Dual Series Video Card | £429.95 @ Amazon UK
Case | Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400S TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case | £74.00 @ Box Limited
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | £84.98 @ Amazon UK
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link - TL-WN722N USB 2.0 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter | £12.90 @ Amazon UK
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £1361.05
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-19 18:11 BST+0100 |

Windows 10 can be picked up from Amazon or Microsoft.

Since you play CS:GO, I recommend a monitor with a refresh rate of a minimum of 144Hz, like this one. As for the rest of the peripherals, what people prefer or like is very subjective so it's hard to pick a keyboard and mouse for you since I do not know what you like. That said, I personally am a fan of mechanical keyboards with blue switches because I like the sound of the clicking, so something like this EagleTec keyboard (here's an Amazon link for it) would be perfect since it's white like the rest of the build and has those blue switches (Amazon has the black one, but oh well). This mouse is a nice entry-level gaming mouse made by Corsair, and is similar to the one I have. Lastly, you'll need a good mouse pad. For that, I recommend QcK for their quality and price.

Feel free to ask anything.

Mice

• Logitech G500 Programmable Gaming Mouse $57.39, probably the best bet for reliability and gaming functionality. I have 2 of these on different computers.
  
  
• Logitech Corded Mouse (M500)$28.79
  
  I can't personally recommend any Razer mice though I'm using a Razer Tron mouse at the moment. Every Razer mouse I've had, has had issues with the left mouse button randomly double clicking.
  
  Keyboards, you can get away with a lot in the keyboard department as they all do pretty much the same thing. Here's a couple of options.
  
  
• Logitech Keyboard K120 $11.97 It's just a standard keyboard, no bells no whistles. Not designed for gaming but will work fine for any game.
  
• Microsoft SideWinder X4 Keyboard $47.70, Microsoft has been known to make the odd good keyboard here and there. This is so far as I know, one of them.
  
• Logitech Gaming Keyboard G105 Call of Duty: MW3 Edition $64.99, Entry level gaming keyboard with programmable keys. If you can get past the Call of Duty branding on this device it'd probably be a pretty good keyboard for you and the programmable keys would work with any game.
  
• Logitech Gaming Keyboard G110 $69.99, For $5 more you can get a game agnostic gaming keyboard with 12 programmable keys.
  
• Logitech Gaming Keyboard G510 $99.67, Now you enter the realm of on keyboard displayed, these work pretty good for a lot of games. A friend of mine has one of these and it's served him very well. I've never seen the point of an on keyboard display as I've never used the one I've got for anything.
  
  EDIT: I accidentally the whole description of a product.

Here are my suggestions.

Mice:

• G305 is the top of my list. It's light, lightspeed wireless, good buttons, and a "perfect" sensor. 6 month battery with AA, you can make it significantly lighter with a AAA lithium ion with some tin foil jammed in it.
  
• G502 is the alternative if you want a wired, heavier mouse with more buttons and a better scroll wheel (it also goes left and right). You can get the different varieties of it, it doesn't really matter. They're all great.
  
• Treat yo self? Logitech G Pro Wireless. It's $150. It's the pro mouse. It's slightly bigger than the G305 and not that different. Save the $100, get the G305.
  
• Avoid: Corsair Dark Core RGB (and SE). You can get this for $25. It's supposed to be a wirelessly rechargeable wireless mouse (got all that?) with RGB, programmable buttons, and the peak of Corsair's mouse technology. It's shit. Dog shit. It doesn't recharge consistently (wirelessly) and has terrible mouse feet, leading to more friction when using it. The software is okay, but I cannot recommend this mouse despite the good price.
  
  Keyboards:
  
  
• Small form factor for cheap? Grab a 68 key keyboard with the arrow keys and some knock off cherries. They're like $40 and type well. I liked this one by Quisan.
  
• Want full sized? Go refurb Corsair or Logitech. Here is a Corsair K70 for $50. Here is the Logitech G610 for $60.
  
• Treat yo self? I got a Logitech G613 wireless mechanical for about $90. It's nice to type on, wireless with no lag, and the battery lasts for 6 months or more (mine is going on more).
  
• Avoid: bluetooth keyboards. That's really it. I've had Logitech, Corsair, and knock offs all work just fine for me. There are better brands, but pretty much everything from $20 mechs to $150 ones work pretty well if you follow reviews.
  
  I'll admit these are mostly from my perspective from the US, so I'm not sure how to check UK prices. I would imagine that since these are large brands, most of the pricing would be consistent.

The Amazon Fire TV is great and very high quality for only $99. If you have amazon prime, you can use it to watch some "free" shows/movies, or simply download the Netflix or Hulu app.

It doesn't have a full qwerty keyboard, but is compatible with any keyboard, including bluetooth ones such as this or this one which is only $15.

The best part is that it is supported by Amazon, which has some of the best customer support around. I don't know what the prices are in the UK, but it seems like it'd fall within your budget.

LED's are PCB mounted.

The extra switches are all Outemu Blues.

The sockets are only compatible with Outemu switches, but you can sharpen the pins slightly (left is clipped, right is stock) and fit other brands of switches in. I don't know how that'll affect the resale value of the switches.

The case itself resonates a bit more than other keyboards I've tried; bottoming out produces a satisfying but inconsistent "thwock". The stabilizers don't rattle at all, which is good, and the switches I've replaced feel perfectly secure as well.

That said, if you're considering dropping Gaterons in a board, you might want to look at their slightly more expensive ones; this sale is for the static rainbow-colored keyboard. For $15 more (or less if they go on sale/used) you can get the real per-key RGB lighting versions in either TKL or 75%.

if ur looking for new a headset, SteelSeries Arctis 5 are awesome. Super comfortable, long cable with detachable ends, really sleek and minimal design. Would recommend over Logitech, Kingston offerings. Mouse i always go with logitech, my G203 is a budget gaming mouse that works fine. Finally E-Element has some really nice budget mech keyboards that have worked great for me. I sold my full size to stick with my tenkeyless and i love it.

Let us be real, it does, but it doesn't affect your gameplay nearly as much as the mouse.

For anyone that never used a mech keyboard in their life, I suggest you try one. Most common switches are red (linear, good for gaming, quite silent) and blue (clicky, loud, very satisfying to type on). I play FPS on a keyboard with blue switches without problem.

I bought this for my lil' bro : click!

He is super happy, and the keyboard feels good. No need to go over-budget with a 300$ Filco majestouch and stuff at first. Addiction to mech keyboards costs a lot more then addiction to mice. A LOT.

edit: typos

I've been playing PS3 since launch due to waiting for my iMac to be repaired. You'll need a copy each because the key is tied to your PSN account. The two-install rule of PSN does not apply in this case. The monthly fee has been discussed already as has the GCD.

I want to take a moment to talk about just how great the console port is, though. Because I've played bottom to top on multiple classes and I think they've done a fantastic job of it. The free PS4 client upgrade is an amazing offer, too, and might even bring me back to console after the fact. The only recommendation I have is something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-920-003070/dp/B005DKZTMG/

The little USB receiver is unobtrusive, the range is good, and it gives you a keyboard for proper typing (as well as quicker access to inventory and the like) and also gives you a mouse pointer when you need it in a pinch.

> The price of a PS4 Pro bundle is around $430. That's around the same price of this build from the PCMR wiki. The PC build is slightly stronger than the PS4 Pro, but I believe that more overhead is needed in PC builds since games on the PC have a tendency to be less-optimized than on console so let's just consider them equal.

I strongly recommend against trying to match the setup cost of a PS4 (or any other console) when putting together a PC. You get an absolutely ridiculous boost to your value if you just spend a little more to begin with. Just as an example, swapping out the 460 in that link for a 470 produces a system that costs under US$530 - nearly $100 more, but absolutely annihilates even the PS4 Pro in terms of performance (thanks chiefly to the general target of 30FPS on PS4). The money will be made back on savings on PC anyway (cheaper games, free online), and you'll have better performance from day one.

Although these prices are largely moot, anyway, as the OP is in Canada (at least, I assume that's why they're buying in CA$!), and they're talking about buying later this year, rather than today.

I'll also throw in that PCs can connect to TVs nowadays, so you don't need a monitor - although, granted, this wasn't generally the case 10-15 years ago. (The "HDMI" on PC graphics cards is the same "HDMI" used on TVs, and they even use the same cable.)

(For a keyboard, I can recommend the indestructible Logitech K120!)

Trying to figure out a cheap/elegant solution to share monitor, mouse, and keyboard between my Macbook Pro and Desktop PC. Torn between finding an inexpensive KVM (any recommendations greatly appreciated), and a Bluetooth solution since my monitor has two HDMI ports. For Bluetooth solution, I was looking at the Logitech K380, and hunting for a cheaper mouse than the Logitech Triathlon as a multi-device mouse. But if anybody can recommend either an inexpensive KVM or an inexpensive multi-device bluetooth mouse I'd appreciate it. Somebody recommended Synergy, and while it seems awesome, I need to share a display.

P.S. Sorry for redundant questions; figured I might as well see what the best solution is.

My point was that switch preference is subjective. What I like won't necessarily be what you like. But one switch type isn't outright "better" for gaming than any other. I prefer tactile switches like Cherry MX Brown and Clear, but some people game on Reds (linear), Blues or Greens (clicky), or even heavy switches like Tactile Grays. The guy who got me interested in mechanical keyboards games on a Buckling Spring IBM Model M.

As it seems you're just starting out, I'd suggest something with Brown switches, which in my opinion is a good middle-of-the-road switch. After using them you can decide if you like the tactile feedback, or if you'd prefer not to have it (which would mean Reds or Blacks), or if you like it but you'd like a click sound too (which would mean Blues or Greens).

I'd actually suggest you go a slightly different direction and get the Velocifire TKL01 for $30, or maybe the James Donkey 619 for $50. Both are backlit but you can turn the lights off.

Link to my craigslist posting: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/sys/5667199085.html

Asking $1250

The post:

Sold off my desktop last year because I needed a mobile workstation/gaming setup. I no longer need one. Truth be told, I never needed one, but considering I never move it...no reason to hold on to it.

Total cost of the entire package new (links included to amazon and NewEgg below): $2401 + Shipping charges from NewEgg - I use Amazon Prime, so if I order from there most of the time so I don't pay shipping, but this exact model isn't sold anywhere by NewEgg.

I figure cut the price in half, get a screaming laptop, and a bunch of fantastic peripherals. This is an AMAZING machine, top notch. Just time for me to part ways.

I am willing to accept trades for a desktop, but it must be in mint condition (as my equipment all is), and it must be comparably spec'd.

Laptop Specs: ($1499 new)

• Processor: i7 5700HQ @ 2.70 GHz - 4 core w/hyperthreading
  
  
• RAM: 16 GB
  
  
• SSD: 128 GB m.2 SSD
  
  
• HDD: 1TB HDD
  
  
• Video: GTX 970M also Intel HD Graphics 5600
  
  
• OS: Windows 10
  
  
• NewEgg Link to laptop
  
  Additional Items in Package:
  Monitor: AOC 29 inch Ultrawide Monitor ($300+ New)
  This thing is amazingly huge. IPS Panel, great for graphic/photo work, tons of screen space.
  
  
• amazon link to monitor
  
  Headset: Astro A50 Wireless 7.1 Surround Sound headset ($299 new)
  
  
• amazon link to headset
  
  Keyboard: Logitech G710+ w/cherry MX Brown switches ($130 New)
  
  
• amazon link to keyboard
  
  Mouse: Logitech G700 Wireless Mouse ($99 New)
  
  
• amazon link to mouse
  
  Gaming Controller: Xbox 360 w/wireless dongle ($49 for controller new - 25 for dongle new)
  
  
• amazon link to controller
  
  
• amazon link to dongle

I think with the ram, you'd be better off going with 2 4gb sticks instead of 1, unless of course you were looking to upgrade to 64gb sometime in the near future.

Also, I don't know about that keyboard. I was looking into buying that one when I was building, but I remember after researching it a bit, it isn't all that great. There isn't very much to it that is actually gaming centered, aside from some keyboard caps and the light. If your on a tight budget, I went with the Logitech k120 which is inexpensive, and I'm just waiting to save up enough for a nice mechanical keyboard. I'm a pretty religious gamer, and the K120 has been doing me great for about a year now. I just don't think that the Sharkoon is worth the $30, when it isn't offering much.

Edit: I also agree with /u/MrGuydude19 that I don't know if you should be spending that much on speakers, when you're spending that much on a headset.

If you want wireless because you're using a non-desk setup (i.e. some sort of living room/couch scenario) then I'd recommend a combination keyboard/trackpad. Sure, you can buy a wireless mouse to go along with a wireless keyboard, but unless you're trying to play a shooter game from the couch without a gamepad, one device is better than two.

I use a Logitech K830 and it's really great. I also own the cheaper K400 for another setup and the K830 is infinitely better. Even though I also have a nice wired mechanical keyboard for when I'm using the NUC as a desktop PC, I'll occasionally find myself using this keyboard along with a regular mouse, just for the sake of convenience.

I have and like my Logitech G410 which fits all of your criteria. From logitech you will pay more than your budget but you can get it for cheaper via 3rd party. Its $70 right now on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Spectrum-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-920-007731/dp/B01645FHEI

I also really like and actually use my Drevo TKL more tho which is not RGB: https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506356645&sr=1-5&keywords=drevo But one of the main reasons I really like this keyboard isthat the F-keys are directly in line with the number keys.

Drevo also has a RGB option but it doesnt have the inline F-keys: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Water-Proof-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghost/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_15?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506356645&sr=1-15&keywords=drevo

Overall I use my drevo for the very specific reason of the in-line f-keys and its a feature I really value. However if this isnt important I would recomend the G410. But any of these listed keyboards wont steer you wrong.

Cheers!

OP here, alternatively, I have figured out two different, pretty retarded, janky solution but are very easy and should work.

​

------

Extra Retarded Solution #1:

1. Buy TWO of these
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Illuminated-Living-Room-Keyboard-Touchpad/dp/B00ZOPVSKW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=wireless+keyboard+touchpad&qid=1555561503&s=gateway&sr=8-4
   
   
2. Heavily duct tape them at the bottom and in between, maybe even hot glue them in between as well
   
   
3. Then connect both of them to the computer and then use the left keyboard's touchpad + mute/volume keys with the left hand and the keys on the right hand.
   
   ​
   
   -----
   
   ​
   
   Somewhat Less Retarded Solution #2:
   
   Alternatively, if I can just find a good touchpad + wireless volume + wireless mute button, I can duct tape them + maybe hotglue them onto the left of my existing keyboard.
   
   ​
   
   ------
   
   ​
   
   However, I'm still interested in your thoughts on the original post as well, which would produce the smallest final object compared to these two new solutions

I always go with EVGA for a couple of reasons, the main being customer service. They simply have the best, and stand by their products 100%. I will always pay more for quality and a company that wont jerk me around when something isnt right.

Your going to want to get a good tube of thermal compound do some research, there are tons out there and they are mostly the same stuff. Are you planning on overclocking your CPU? If not you dont need the K variant.

Everything else looks pretty good, except that keyboard. Dont get Razer, get a better mechanical keyboard for cheaper. The 'gaming' mechs are all over priced and dont really offer anything that others dont. For instance This is a significantly better keyboard than the chroma, and you dont have to deal with Razer's spotty reliability.

edit: this is also a great keyboard from a more main stream company: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Well, I'm building a second Atreus, so that may be my favorite. I like it better for its portability factor, but the Let's Split is great for ergonomics (being able to put the halves at shoulder width is really nice). I think the two things that you get from a wasd over a corsair are build quality and configurability. The wasd is built with a steel plate, so there's no flex in the keyboard. And when I say configurability, that's a combination of the DIP switches on the back and the number of different switch types that they come in. Now, Cherry isn't the only switch manufacturer in the game, in fact, both of my customs use something else (Zealio and Kailh). There are other boards out there that may be less expensive and have just as good a typing experience as the CODE. My brother likes his Magicforce 68, but that didn't stop him from building a Let's Split, too!

Ninja edit: he doesn't have a Mac, but like /u/hingino said, every keyboard is a Mac keyboard, in reality.

Amazon reviews can be a good indicator. Out of 1,539 reviews (which is a lot for a mechanical keyboard), it gets 4.3 out of 5 stars. 65% are 5 stars and 15% are 4 stars. You may still want to check out the 1-star and 2-star reviews to see if any glaring problems come up. $86.50 seems like a good price for a board with Cherry browns. Link

The keeb in your ebay link is "Manufacturer refurbished: An item that has been professionally restored to working order by a manufacturer or manufacturer-approved vendor. This means the product has been inspected, cleaned, and repaired to meet manufacturer specifications and is in excellent condition. This item may or may not be in the original packaging. See the seller’s listing for full details." $58 seems like a great price if you trust the refurbishing process.

Welcome! As with all deep hobbies, take a breath and enjoy a day or two of research before committing to too much. Honestly, just clicking around here on new posts for a day or two, and then heading over to /r/mechmarket/ and just clicking every new listing is a fine way to get started. I link that mechmarket because I've found it invaluable in learning what's what, and you're almost guaranteed to find exactly what you want there over the next week or so.

To answer your question directly, just like alose said, a Leopold or Ducky One will be great. There are many options.

A cheap(er) option is the Magicforce. I got one to try out a blue switch keyboard and was surprised how nice it is. You can get it in white with brown switches on Amazon. $40. Search for Qisan brown switch or just use this Amazon link (no affiliate BS, just linking you.)

Value mouse wise, a gpro wired + paracord + hyperglides is still cheap, and the g305 is also fantastic bang-for-your-buck. The new lightspeed wireless mice (g305, GPW) are indistinguishable from wired, latency wise. I also have the glorious odin on pre-order, and everything i've read from people that have gotten to test it indicates that it'll be a top-of-the-line mouse.

Value keyboard wise: the magicforce 60% is like a ducky without any of the bells or whistles for $40

that little dicky bird was a liah who didn't look anywhere other than the sponsored "recomended" articles who most likely recomended CherryMX switch keyboards and claimed anything not CherryMX was shit.

This is mine right now, it's awesome and feels great

don't have to spend a lot to get a good keyboard, there are better and better mechs coming out every week. But because they aren't CherryMX people ignore them. The one I linked is great, has click and feels great while also being backlit.

If he doesn't have one already, a mechanical keyboard would be a great gift. They can be a bit pricey, but you can get one for ~100 dollars that is pretty decent; it'll making typing a much nicer experience. Specifically, I'd look for any keyboard which has "Cherry MX Brown" or "Cherry MX Blue" switches. The key switch determines how the keyboard feels, and how loud it is.

I have blues at home and browns for my keyboard at work and both options are solid. I prefer blues myself but they are loud, Browns feel similar but they don't have an audible click so they are much quieter.

Be wary of "like-mechanical" keyboard, that are basically just expensive membrane keyboard that try and mimic the mechanical feel.

Here are two pretty good options to get you started:

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503434727&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+k70

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503434740&sr=8-1&keywords=logitec+g710%2B

No you need more. You definitely need a PCB to hold all of the diodes, switches and mount the controller and usb female port. Here is what a blank PCB for handwiring looks like. With the amount of time it takes and price on all these little parts, it is not that much more to get a ready-to-go pcb, and it is a hell of a lot less head aches. Custom boards are expensive. If you want a semi-custom at a fraction of the price project. Get your ideal switches, and get a cheap board like this. Open it up, desolder the outemo switches, and throw the key caps in the trash. Resolder in your zealios or whatever you got. Get a good key cap set and you got yourself a sweet board for much less than what you are taking about.

I think the best thing about a custom is making a board with all the best parts with your ideal layout, which comes at a premium. If you're building a cheap custom, it will just be another "meh" board. Desolder/resolder switches of an already built board will get you further for cheap, and will be more ideal than cheaping out on all custom parts.

Honestly your choices are limited but you can still get a beginner board.

Go over the following link to get a better feel of the available boards:
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/buying_guide

Not sure if you wanted < TKL or > TKL but for that price, if my suggestion is that you go with a Magic Force 68. Never used it personally but it seems like the go to for budget boards. You'll be able to switch the keycaps and the case easily if that ever becomes your thing.

In any case, good luck with your search :)

For 'most' people, especially those new to the hobby, the go-to gaming switch seems to be mx blues. It really is extremely subjective though. Lots of people prefer quieter tactile switches or linears. Actuation weight varies a lot too. I personally prefer a heavier switch, so the first board I bought (which I'm still using) has mx greens (similar to mx blues, but heavier springs), and for my next board which I plan to custom build, I'm going even heavier and more clicky. I'll be spending a good bit more than $100USD on it though. Another big factor is size. Would you prefer a smaller board? How attached are you to your numpad? What about your FN row? Arrow keys? All things you have to decide before buying. If you just want something cheap, but decent, with mechanical switches to try, here is a very low cost "60%" (I'd call it more like 65% because of the arrow keys, but idk) sold on amazon, with good reviews.. This one has blue (tactile clicky) switches, but it comes in brown (tactile) and black (linear) varients as well. I really would recommend putting a bit more time into researching the different types of switches/ board sizes and maybe even invest in a switch tester from NovelKeys or make a post on /r/mechmarket asking if anyone has one with good, entry level switches they will sell you for cheap.

> hhkb2

WoW! that keyboard is like $300? I would recommend selling that, its not good for RTS Gaming

Why do you use a keyboard thats missing a lot of keys such as: numpad, F1-F12, capslock, and ~ is so far away! you know those are useful keys right?? F1,F2,F3= heroes, F10= menu, F11= ally resources, capslock can be swapped with backspace for easier access, and lets not forget about the arrow <- ^ -> keys which many people like using

pressing FN to access those keys is not useful for competitive gaming! just get a regular keyboard instead of buying a separate numpad... heres some better keyboards that you can actually program and customize yourself

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009C98NPY <--- 6 programmable buttons on left side (logitech #1)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSPGL9S <- multiple programmable layouts, side #s & swap-able

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076FTKD6F/?th=1 <-- totally custom layout, programmable, swap-able

you can also buy a mouse with extra buttons, a lot of people use the extra side buttons for hero, TP, tab, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KV1IMMU/ (i also recommend using wired m/kb, no batteries no delay)


Have you read the entire hotkey guide I sent you?? Why havent you setup the inventory on TYGH? its much better than using numpad and can do a lot more too (like I said before, swapping space and ctrl is just one example of what you can do if you setup the other hotkey editor) obviously you dont want to change ctrl but, on a normal keyboard its very useful

you should really just try testing out the inventory on TYGH, at least before buying another keyboard... let me know if you need help setting up AHK for inventory, you are on a Windows PC right?

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-8400 | $179.00 @ Amazon.com
Motherboard | Gigabyte B360 HD3 | $84.99 @ Amazon.com
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport LT white DDR4-2666 CL16 (8 GB) | $82.84 @ Amazon.com
Storage | WD Blue WD10EZEX (1 TB) | $37.99 @ newegg
SSD | Team Group L5 Lite 3D Series (240 GB) | $49.99 @ newegg
Video Card | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 Mini | $299.99 @ Amazon.com
Case | RAIJINTEK Arcadia Midi-Tower - white | $27.99 @ superbiiz
Power Supply | EVGA 600 BQ (600 W) | $39.99 @ Amazon.com
Operating System | WIN10 64 HOME EN - Windows 10 Home, 64 Bit, englisch (COEM) | $92.99 @ Amazon.com
Monitor | AOC G2460VQ6 (24", 1080p@122, FreeSync) | $129.99 @ Amazon.com
| Total | $1025.76
| Generated by pc-kombo 10.05.2018 |

You do not have to but Windows now if you do not want to, it can be used without activation, at least currently.

6-core cpu with a good single thread performance, good for games like Arma. The GTX 1060 is the correct choice for 1080p gaming. SSD is in there, budget tower, good enough psu that is on sale. And this stays in budget :)

I'd get https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Mechanical-Enthusiasts-Backlighting-Double-shot/dp/B01MA6O13L as keyboard and https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826816067 as mouse, but for the keyboard you can also just get https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-KU-0833-Wired-Keyboard/dp/B005EOWBHC/ and for the mouse whatever you prefer. In general those are mostly subjective choices.

i would order a switch tester like this one before buying a completely new keyboard, just so you can get a feel for what kinds of switches you like. i personally like cherry browns, but they are pretty easy to press, so you might find them too sensitive, too loud, or not tactile enough since you're coming from a standard rubber dome keyboard.

generally on this sub, gaming brand keyboards like corsairs and razers aren't recommended for various reasons. unless you're specifically in need of a white keyboard, you could find keyboards from other brands that offer much better value for your money, such as a ducky or an ikbc.

An alternative to the AK33 that might interest you is the E-Element Z-88. It has a very similar layout, but is slightly more standard (better aftermarket keycap compatibility) AND has hot swap switch sockets. Even though the sockets will only accept Outemu switches without modification, the good news is that newer Outemu switches are actually quite nice. I'm not a fan of clickies so I replaced the stock Blues with Purples and discovered a contender for my favorite switch in the process.

Not that I want to rob you of an opportunity to essentially build your own board, but in case you just wanted to get up and running with some customizability...

Anyhow, let us know what you end up with! Best of luck.

So, I've been trying to find a mechanical keyboard for when my silicone dies, but I'm kinda picky so this might be a bit over specific. Does anybody know of a good mechanical keyboard that has:

• Media keys (I can live without these if it has the others)
  
• 10-key
  
• Any switch besides black or red
  
• is back light (preferable with blue as an option)
  
• Isn't just the generic rectangle shape
  
  I like some character in my keyboards. This is the best I've found so far, and was wondering if anybody knows of something else that fits the bill.
  
  Thanks for any help in advance!

I am probably very late for this but if you are buying a new keyboard get a mechanical. You can get some cheaper ones off amazon that still work great. Lighting is a lot of fun but to get RGB you are looking at a price tag of $100 and up, that said you can get a standard backlit for much cheaper such as this or somthing like this if you dont use the keypad. With mechanical keyboards you can change the keycaps to anything you like which is very cool, check out /r/mechanicalkeyboards for more on that.

Oh and there are different switches on different mechanical keyboards, they determin how hard the key is to press, if you hear a click, and if you feel a bump on actuation. The most common switches are MX cherry browns and MX cherry reds. Check this out for more info.

I realize i am most likely already too late but oh well

I have the Corsair K70 [non RGB] with Cherry MX red switches. If I were you I'd get a K70. My friend has the Razer Blackwidow with the custom Razer green switches. He loves it.

Before you buy a mechanical keyboard tho. You really need to try out each switch. You could either buy one of these to test it out, or you can go to a local computer store that has keyboards on show.
If you end up buying a mechanical keyboard without testing the switches out first. You may end up hating your keyboard.
Most people like the MX blues [the clicky ones].

I like the MX reds though because you can't feel a bump when you push down a key, and because they are pretty quiet [unless you bash your keyboard]

There are lots of mechanical keyboards on the market. You could go all out and get a Ducky keyboard or get a pretty cheap one like this one

If you want macros then you can go for a Corsair K95 which has 18 macro keys. If you want less macros then you can go for the Logitech G710+ which has 6 macros.

Just remember to try out each MX switch, and you should be good.

I have that third board, got it off MassDrop last year and I love it! It's my first board and I don't have many complaints. Solid construction, good finish, no dead LEDs after a year -- the keys are eggshell white and get dirty super easily and the polished edge of the board scratches super easy, but it's a great board otherwise. 9/10 do recommend. Here's my unboxing ftc

Edit: for those looking for a backlit version off of Amazon, heres the one I ordered with orange WASD/blue lights, here is a black body blue backlit version sold by the manufacturer and heres a silver body white light version. Heres an unlit version on prime day special for $35.

I really have only bought and used Eagletec keyboards as far as comparatively inexpensive keyboards go. I like boards with "blue" type switches in them for the "bump" when you type and of course the mechanical click. They may not be the best for gaming, though. Some people find the feedback and noise distracting. Any keyboard with Outemu switches in them should be similar, just depends on how much you want to pay and what style you want.

I bought one of these ($40) and I like it as much as keyboards I have paid much more for but you may personally like a different one. Read some reviews and find out about the differences between the different switch brands and colors to see what you may like. Or, just bite the bullet and buy a cheap board to see how it feels. Anyway, have fun!

I found a likely 20 year old Cherry keyboard in the electronics recycle bin at work today. It's got the old ML switches in it and the large 5-pin connector so I'll have to find an adapter to check it out. I hope it works, it's a nice solid old keyboard that doesn't even look used.

I ordered a cherry mx tester beforehand to get an idea, This one to be exact (but it doesnt have silent reds, so I didnt know exactly what I was getting).

I also think that browns feel very mushy - to be honest they feel like rubberdomes. Its not a very clear tactile feeling at all. So browns and their stiffer ones were out of the race.

I did like the feeling of blues, greens and the white ones, but as you said they produce a hell lot of sound. And since I'm playing next to my girlfriend she gets really really really pissed with loud keyboards.

So I kinda liked the the reds and blacks on the tester since they are very silent and feel really high quality (compared to browns for example). I thought about getting black ones but decided that my pinky finger might be too weak to play multiple hours of dota haha. So I was searching for red ones, then found the silent red ones.

I gotta say they feel amazing. A lot better than Reds with O-Rings while being a lot more silent at the same time. Sound whise they are not a lot louder than my Apple Wireless Keyboard - and that is the most silent keyboard I know. Of course I don't have hundreds of hours with it yet but I can clearly say that these are keepers. I'm thinking about ordering a second Pok3r board with these for work (as seen in the image - the RGB one will travel home with me tonight :)) - And I am pretty sure that I will go for Silent Reds once more.

I can do a sound test if you like?

I love my E-Elements Z-88 75%, great RGB keyboard with (mostly) standard keycaps. Get it with the blue switches (Outemu) and you'll be in clicky heaven. Great entry level price, 2 day shipping via Amazon, and smaller form factor. Trust me, you won't miss the numpad.

https://www.amazon.com/E-Element-Water-Proof-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghost/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493142214&sr=8-2&keywords=z-88

This and this are both very decent affordable keyboards. If you want to spend up to 80 quid I'm sure you'll have no problem doing it but if you want to save some cash you can invest in a much cheaper board.

Its quite hard to explain, but the more you get into mech keyboards the more you'll understand that the community doesn't really have any specific love of Keyboard Brands. A bit like with building computers you don't think of them as 'Acer' or 'Dell' but as all the individual parts that make them up.

When I look at a keyboard I'm not looking at the brand on the front but what the switches are or what controller is being used.

FYI both these keyboards use Outemu or Kailh switches :)

Really if you do some research and buy half of your parts used you could save some good money. Thats what I did. I got my ram, case, motherboard and power supply used from ebay/craigslist and hard drive refurbished from the manufacturer. Saved some serious money.

Then I got a 360 controller and wireless all-in-one keyboard like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-920-003070/dp/B005DKZTMG

So when I'm tired of being on the computer I just watch tv or play other games there, and use that keyboard to type quicker.

And if you're a fellow pirate its easy to download whatever movies you want straight into it :)

Another cool thing to do is have a local shared folder between your computer/laptop and the media pc to toss movies and other media in there as well as other files.

My new work keyboard is a Corsair mechanical. I think it's this model (http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-lux-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-red-led-cherry-mx-red-na), but I'd recommend one of their keyboards that don't have a textured spacebar as that's quickly driving me up a wall. The keys themselves are responsive and surprisingly quiet.

The keyboard I've had forever was a basic Microsoft Multimedia keyboard, but if you want something with some more bells and whistles Logitech all the way. My old roommate gave me two G15s when she upgraded to mechanicals, and I've been rocking one ever since. I keep the other in the closet as a backup in case this one ever dies, but I doubt it will. It looks like the spritual successor is the G710 mechanical (http://www.amzn.com/B009C98NPY), with the G105 being a non mechanical, and thus way cheaper variant (http://www.amzn.com/B00BBUCCKO).

I also recommend their mice. The G400 I have at work and the G500s at home have consistently been one of the most comfortable models I've used. It looks like they no longer make those models, but the general shape of it seems to be the current G403 (http://www.amzn.com/B01KUAMCV4) or M500 (http://www.amzn.com/B002B3YCQM).

If you have $200 to spend on XKeys, get XKeys. From what I have heard, everything they make is really solid.

When I first started doing a lot of off-line programming, I did not have that kind of money laying around. So I made this out of a cheap keyboard and some white keyboard stickers. I also put a lot of extra functions on the keys too. For instance "B" is Label, "Shift B" is Block, and "Alt B" is Beam Pallette. The writing has to be tiny but it does help you remember the other functions of different keys.
It is far from perfect but at less than a tenth of the cost of an XKeys, it is a great deal. I have happily pre-programmed many shows with this setup.

Make sure you use the Harmony software, if you can. It makes integration of multiple devices that much easier. Also, be sure to check you have the latest version the Flirc software.

You probably aren't going to be too satisfied with remote interaction on webpages; it's do-able, just not a great user experience.

Binding direction keys on the remote and single / double click actions will do almost everything on a PC. You can also just create shortcuts to shut down the system, though turning on the PC could not be done via Flirc since the Flirc would be plugged into a powered-down PC.

If you're looking for a more interactive HTPC environment, a wireless keyboard touchpad combo might better fit the bill:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG

Another alternative is something like Unified Remote:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Relmtech.Remote&hl=en

You install resident software on the PC, and then you can control / emulate any function on your phone or tablet.

I have this logitech keyboard that I like very much. It's only 30 dollars, and actually feels really nice (to me, very similar to the apple keyboards). I paired it with a belkin case, and I'm super happy. I didn't want to always have the keyboard attached to the ipad, and I'm fine with carrying two separate parts when I need to type. I also got one of those styluses with the clear plastic tips, and I've found that it's a great way to take notes and edit PDF's.

Edit: I should also note that the keyboard can connect to up to 3 separate devices at a time.

Thanks pal,
This picture is from a while ago, I currently use a Corsair K70, but I believe this is the board I had when I took this picture. Its a super budget board, but I loved it. Quality is superb for the price.
https://www.amazon.ca/MechanicalEagle-Multicolor-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tenkeyless/dp/B01DBVH16U/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=eagle%2Bmechanical%2Bkeyboard&qid=1574028515&sr=8-7&th=1

Hi, so this is going to be a tough one...the price range you provided is very low. Personally, I don't own anything that is of that price range but I have heard that for a cheap beginner board that is decent quality the Magicforce 68 by Qisan is a pretty good board.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0

​

If you're willing to spend a little more:

​

Anne pro 2: https://www.amazon.com/Anne-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B07M66R9DG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=anne+pro+2&qid=1562175943&s=electronics&sr=1-2

​

Ducky one 2 Mini: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4322

​

Best of luck!

I've had a Corsair Strafe RGB for a few years and have liked it, but am realizing I don't really use any of the extra features (the software to set custom lighting is a major pain, and keeping lights on seems to produce a light buzzing noise in my headphones so I've just been keeping it off). Also, for the first time in 20+ years, I spilled a little onto the keyboard - was working fine until I removed the spacebar to wipe it up and replaced it, then it had a problem spamming space for a while (unplugged and left it for the night), then briefly holding another key, but seems like it works fine now.

 

ANYWAY: Magicforce 68 or Plugable from the buying guide, any suggestions? I don't care at all about a backlight and realistically I don't think I need the tenkey. The Magicforce one does look a bit silly but pictures with replaced keycaps look pretty nice. Open to pretty much anything, those two just looked like great value

You could either use a 3rd party program like Key Tweak or you can use the Logitech SetPoint software.

Feel free to comment or shoot me a PM if you need more help. :)

Edit: If you still have the option of returning the k400, and you don't mind spending a little more, the K830 is a great option. The backlit keys are a godsend, and the keyboard layout is much less blasphemous.

Don't get ducky. It's over priced because pro fortnite players use it. I recommend the ap2 because it's like 90 bucks on Amazon and it has great RGB, nice software, high quality build, and comes in kailh switches which, IMO are cheaper, better Cherry's. Ap2 is real nice. If you want to delve deeper into the neverending abyss of mechanical keebs then go on to kbdfans fans(after doing some switch research) and get a tada 68. They come in like 50 different switches.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVMBMNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SHRjDbBJNNT3J

You could buy this and then some switches and keycaps. All you have to do is pop in the switches. It's plug and play.

https://novelkeys.xyz/products/kailh-box-switches?variant=3747940171816

$3 = 10 s

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JDVG4RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VKRjDbG6BFWYV

This but these keycaps, which look amazing with they RGB. Or you can get any other keycaps you may want. And you have a nice ass board for just over $100. I have this exact board and I customized it to my liking. It works phenomenally.

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/cbpfi8/th_miami_tealios_v2_67_gk61_gens_prism_took_like/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

*Posted on alt

Take a look at THIS. It only comes in a Blue Gaote / Outemu switch, but for the money this thing has been awesome for me. Built like a tank and one of the heaviest boards I own. There is a lot of aluminum in this board. And oddly I find I like the feel and sound of these switches far more than the Cherry Blue. Edit: As for mice take a look at THIS one. A friend of mine has been using it for several months with zero issues. It has very good response. My only complaint is it's a bit light weight for me, but I do prefer a heavier mouse.

Das keyboards get some flak for being overpriced, but at $60 this is a pretty good deal. Now that they have apparently sold out, see below for some alternatives.

EDIT: if you search for Das on /r/mechanicalkeyboards you'll find lots of people talking about how Das keyboards have declined in quality recently and some controversy about the software for one of their new models (not this KB) being Windows only. The keycaps Das uses are also said to be low quality. These issues aside, I personally think this is a good deal. If you are in the market for a full size mechanical keyboard, it's hard to find a better keyboard for the price. Some alternatives that are better but more expensive:

• $80: iKBC CD108 w/ MX Clear Switches
  
• $90 for full-size, $80 for tenkeyless: Cooler Master MasterKeys S
  
• $40, but 60% layout not full-sized: Magicforce68
  
  EDIT 2: as /u/SolixTanaka pointed out below, the Magicforce keyboards have questionable quality control. It's probably not fair to say they are better than Das keyboards. Some users love them and have no problems, others find their board crapping out after a few months (or sooner). Buyer beware. I like them because they are a cheap way to try out a 60% layout if that's something that interests you but you're unsure if you'll like it.

If you really can't decide, you should purchase a cherry switch sampler available [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00N6DXTW4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418104761&sr=8-2&keywords=cherry+switch+sampler) (or [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418104761&sr=8-1&keywords=cherry+switch+sampler&pebp=1418104793540) if you decide test not as many as the first option provides.)

I would recommend browns or blues because they are both relatively easy to type on and get used to, but it depends if you want the audible feedback or not.




OH WAIT if you think blues are sloppy but you like the click, consider greens. Greens are like blues with the bump and click BUT requires 80 grams of actuation force, which is much stiffer than the blues, which only require 50 grams, so you still get that nice click and a very stiff key, along with less typos and a great typing experience. [Here's an example of a green switch mech.] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=st3dCj9gkrE)

You can pick up reliable rubber dome boards for less than that. Save the money and put it towards a keyboard you'll love.

Not the dream keyboard, but the one that you love to use until you can justify the dream keyboard.


Reliable rubber domes: One two


Save to buy one of these: One two


Tell yourself that one day you'll pick up one of these: cherry 6.0

Or maybe something else is the dream keyboard.

You could buy a switch tester like this one or you could go to a local Best Buy or something like that and try different keybaords. I absolutely love Reds and they are my favorite. Some like Browns, some like Blues, it's very hard to tell. But there's a switch for everyone.

I installed the Netflix Windows 8 application and XBMC.

I then installed OblyTile and created a custom large button at the Start menu/tile interface for XBMC (needed to customize the tile with the XBMC logo, but wasn't tough). I also added the Netflix tile right next to it, large as well.

I installed Chrome (browser of choice) and created two smaller tiles that were links to bookmarks in Chrome, YouTube and Google Music.

Change the background of the Start/tile interface to something dark with a little bit of a pattern. Looks very clean and crisp.

I use a Logitech K400 right now. I have a Logitech 650 and Flirc I want to finish setting up, but I haven't had the chance to tinker with that aspect yet.

Overall, Windows 8.1 and XBMC + Netflix works really well. The Netflix app is stellar and XBMC keeping XBMC full screen (hitting "\") and just hitting the Windows button to get out of it/go to Netflix is very smooth and user friendly. I prefer it over the Apple TV and my Ouya by far.

And I built it with the very affordable Intel NUC DN2820FYK, which accepts 2.5" HDs.

I do, at least for a lot of games. I still stick to the desk when playing FPS games but I use the TV a lot, also. I use PS3 controllers with a cheap USB bluetooth dongle and the SCP Toolkit drivers, a long HDMI cable I switch between my monitor and my TV as needed (considering getting a DVI cable to just have them both hooked up but honestly switching the HDMI isn't a big deal for me), and if I need to use a mouse/keyboard from the couch I got a Logitech K400 from Micro Center for $20.

That setup works great for me, honestly. I did experiment with using another PC for Steam streaming but latency over wi-fi was always too big of an issue so IMO the long HDMI cable works better.

I own a Boxee Box, 1st Gen AppleTV running crystalbuntu (Linux w/ XMBC + CrystalHD/1080p support) and a little set-top PC running Plex.

Here is my consensus.

Easiest:

If you primarily want to watch streaming content like Netflix, Vudu movie rentals, and other various content from the web, the boxee is a real winner. It organizes and helps you locate content from around the web and puts it into and easy to use 10ft interface. The keyboard isn't backlit which is annoying, and the interface can slow down a bit during load.

I've also found that every once in a while it needs a reboot just because. (Especially after a larger movie like 1080i)
Also, Boxee Box sucks for large high quality files. It locks up with 1080p .ts files, (or at least takes 1-4minutes to load) and lots of .mkv files make it cry/slideshow. Most content on the web is 720p or less.

Moderate skills:

If you primarily watch video content that you have downloaded, a set-top pc is (IMO) the winner. You can put in hardware that can actually handle 1080p without croaking. Your selection of input devices is much, much larger, and you don't have to worry about something coming out that your device can't support.

The other advantage is that you can set up that set-top pc to be your media downloading/storing device. Transmission, Sabnzbd+ w/ Sickbeard + Couchpotato + Headphones can automate the entire process and give you what amounts to an internet based DVR (With music too.) You could even install Subsonic and serve the music to your phone to stream while you're away.

Tech savvy:

If you watch mostly local content, but also want to be able to rent stuff easily, a 1st gen AppleTV with crystalbuntu is the best/cheapest solution. You can pick up a used ATV for around $50 on craigslist and get a CrystalHD card for ~$40. This will handle 1080p files for less than $100 as long as you have some technical know-how and a free usb stick >4GB (Or don't mind formatting the internal HDD) You can even remove the USB stick and boot into ATV to use their rental service for instant access to films giving you a sort of "Best of both worlds"

Of course, with all it's strengths, a set-top PC/Hacked ATV requires you to build/install/configure/modify all of it. For many people, that alone is the killer feature of a boxee box.

If you're looking on the budget end, these keyboards will all be on sale tomorrow:

• Velocifire VM01 Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Outemu Brown Switches 104 Keys LED Illuminated Backlit Anti-ghosting Keys (Black)
  
• MechanicalEagle Z-77 Multicolor Backlit 87 Keys Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Blue Switches DIY Replaceable Switches - Black
  
• Mechanical Keyboard Gaming Keyboard Brown Switch 68-Keys Mini Design (60%) Gaming Wired Keyboard White Silver Magicforce by Qisan
  
• EagleTec KG010 Gaming / Industrial / Office Mechanical Keyboard With LED Backlit 104 Key (Black)
  
  The first 2 are pretty regularly posted on this sub. The 3rd is highly recommended on /r/MechanicalKeyboards as a good budget board (though the more expensive Gateron keys are preferred). I'm not familiar with the 4th, but it looks like it could be the same as a MechanicalEagle with a different badge.
  
  Here is a link that finds all of those keyboards except the Qisan (#3), which is filed under "Electronics" and "Video Games > Accessories" rather than "Computers & Accessories". It should also keep populating in case more keyboards show up, since deals are only posted 24 hours in advance. You should be able to change the price range, but I don't remember seeing any mechanical keyboards for $50+. You can also "Watch" the deals from that link so you are notified when they go live.
  
  Hope this helps, and good luck finding a board!

• Case: ARK PN-06 Black With Power Supply $24.99 Shipping $12.99
  
• Motherboard: ASUS M5A78L-M LX PLUS $39.99 $5.99
  
• Processor: AMD FX 4100 $102.29 Free Shipping
  
• RAM: Crucial Ballistix 4GB $22.99 Free Shipping
  
• HDD Maxtor 500GB 7200RPM $34.51 Shipping: $5.49
  
• Graphics Card: Ati 4870 Sapphire 512GB $45.95 Shipping $5.99
  
• OS: Windows 7 Home Premium $99.99 Free Shipping
  
• DVD Drive: LG DVD Drive $20 Free Shipping
  
• Keyboard: Logitech Keyboard $12.09 Free Shipping
  
  This is a build for $430 (With shipping) if you can increase your budget at all?

That hurts to hear D:

True. I mean she has a makeup obsession, but in her defense, she's the manager of a large chain makeup store lol. Maybe one day she will understand :P

I will! I'm planning on doing the holtite mod, Frosty Flake mod, wrapping the plate in red carbon fiber wrap, aftermarket caps, and possibly an aftermarket cable for it as well. Maybe further down the line, I'll get an aluminum case for it too, but that's super expensive compared to the mods I already have planned for it.

Sooo last night this keyboard had a pricing error and came out to $9 after the promo code applied to it. I ordered 3 of them just because they were cheap. Assuming they ship out, I really want to get some MX Clears and stick that on one of the boards to hold me over until I can mod my Quickfire Stealth (this has hotswap compatibility built into the board already). Really hoping that it goes through, but I will know by the end of the day today since I was eligible for free 1 day shipping.

A good place to start looking would definitly be the board wiki
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/wiki_navigation

My suggestion would be to first find the size you want - full size, 60%, 75, planck etc.

Next find the type of switch you would like - cherry mx? Gateron? Topre? Dont know any of these - try to order a switch tester to see which one you like:
https://www.amazon.com/Akwox-Cherry-Switch-keyboard-Sampler/dp/B01GZHU1EG

Then find the things you would like on your keeb - LED's? Media Buttons? None of these?

Look at some popular keeb companies, see which one is right for you:
Leopold
Pok3r
HHKB
TADA
Varmilo

• some to get you started
  
  
  TLDR;
  Find switch you like > Find board size you like > Find cap layout you like > Find Caps you like > Find artisans you like > Cry because you have no more money

Yes, it isn't perfect "yet" where you can control everything easily without a keyboard and mouse but simply get a wireless mouse/touchpad combo like this and you should be good.

Might have to google some guides on like getting your PC to turn on from controller turning on and boot into Steam Big picture and you should be good.

There is also solutions like steam link and Nvidia's version of it which work fine.

I'm looking at getting my first mechanical keyboard ever. I think I'm leaning towards brown switches, since I game and type, but may consider red. I like the k95 rgb because the macro switches on the left seem useful to have. Something to keep in mind though is that this is for a hackintosh, so chances are high that a lot of the fancy keys won't work for the mac part. Consequently, I love the silver brush, white key look such as this: https://smile.amazon.com/EagleTec-KG011-Industrial-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B015MQH59A/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1486422772&sr=8-8&keywords=mechanical+keyboard

I'd prefer something with pretty standard keycaps if I wanted to go the customization route. Any recommendations based off of all this criteria?

Eagletec KG010.

The switches are custom, but have a feel and sound similar to Cherry Blue switches. (Meaning loud and clicky!)
It has aluminum and ABS construction and ten levels of brightness. It's minimalist and classy, but has the full keyboard with the number pad and everything.
It's a great "entry" mechanical keyboard, but in my opinion it is good for those who have been in the game for a while, too.

Oh, and it's 40 bucks.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $182.95 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus H97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $99.00 @ Amazon
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $38.50 @ Amazon
Storage | Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $42.66 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon R9 380 4GB SOC Video Card | $229.99 @ Amazon
Case | Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ITX Mini ITX Tower Case | $69.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $85.95 @ Amazon
Monitor | Acer S220HQLAbd 21.5" 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard | $9.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G402 Wired Optical Mouse | $43.00 @ Amazon
Speakers | Logitech S120 2.3W 2ch Speakers | $15.00 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | ~$1006.50
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-13 16:43 EDT-0400 |
Comes in a little over 1k, but I included keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, etc. Things you may already have, or have extras of. Mini-ITX check, SSD, check, Windows 10, check (they come in USBs now so no need optical drive). Modular PSU so you can actually fit all your parts in easily. GPU should be able to handle most games satisfactorily. CPU should handle most tasks well. GLHF

I had success browsing ebay for a laptop with a cracked screen. I just had to make sure that the laptop screen wasn't so bad that I couldn't windows (to make sure I could change settings to recognize the tv being plugged in) and make sure the laptop had hdmi output. I ended up with a nice hp for just over $100.

It now has xbmc, hot keys to hulu, netflix, torrent sites/client, and I have a vpn (private internet acces, ~$40/year). Soon I'll have Aereo to replace USTVnow that I have setup on xbmc. I bought this keyboard/mouse to make browsing easier. My wife and I are very happy with this setup and never have any sort of issue. The only other thing I buy is NHL Gamecenter to watch on my ps3 (although if there is a similar work around to this as there is NFL games, I'd gladly drop it).

Are you going to be gaming on this PC? I hate recommending mechanical keyboards for people that will be gaming with friends on an open mic. It really does get annoying when you hear CLACK CLACK CLACK CLAKCLACKCLACK through the mic.

This is a great keyboard for the money. 4.5 stars from Amazon reviews, even after filtering out the incentivized reviews. $34 for green switches (of course not Cherry branded at this price point) and it has red backlighting. https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B016MAK38U

The Green switches are both a tactile and a clicky (loud) switch. You can both feel the tactile bump and hear the "click" that occurs when the activation point is hit. ... If you are used to lighter switches you may have trouble at first getting used to the feel of Green switches, as they are a stiff switch. Of course, I am not sure if this will hold true for this off brand. It may be quite easy to press, who knows.

There is also a cheaper non-backlit version, and a $50 RGB backlit version.

Here is an interesting offering for only $30.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N57WL39/ref=psdc_12879431_t2_B06ZY9YV1N

Blue switches, so it will be clicky (loud) and tactile. Blues are considered similar to Greens, just easier to press.


EagleTec also makes cheap mechanical keyboards worth a look. You might find an LED design from them that will go great with your build.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MQH59A

Here's some from Amazon:

• Poker 3 - $130 great board with an aluminum case already.
  
• Poker 2 - $90 no aluminum case but you could order a custom one online that suits your liking for about $50.
  
• Qisan Magicforce - $40 super affordable keyboard. With or without LEDs.
  
• Vortex 75 - $150 great board to consider with an aluminum case if you don't mind a 75%.

I'm in the states as well, and Amazon is the place to go for me. They've got everything.

For cases, I really like C4 Labs' cases, especially the black-and-clear Zebra line.

For a power supply, you're probably going to want one that is 5V/2.1A -- any less and you might run into power issues, so it's better to be on the safe side. Some of my Pis (like my Pi Zeros) run well simply connected to a USB port on my computer, other Pis (like my Pi 2) do not. This is most likely due to those particular USB ports only putting out ~1 amp or so.

You'll also want an HDMI cable probably, and for this, I would recommend going away from Amazon and trying out monoprice.com -- they've got good, cheap cables galore, though you can probably also find a decently-priced HDMI cable on Amazon as well.

I use the Logitech K400 keyboard for my Pis and it works well, too. Good battery life. Some keys are laid out a little weird, so I find myself hitting "Backspace" when I want to type a backslash a lot of times -- it takes a bit of getting used to, but it's small enough to work on and doubles as a good media center remote as well.

For a camera, you're going to be limited to the "official" Raspberry Pi camera, but USB cameras work well with some programs too.

Oh don't worry about it, I enjoy helping people, ask away.

I just went with mechanical because that's what most gamers I know use. I haven't tested any membrane switches other than the ones I've used at home for work, but I can tell you the keyboard I have now is wonderful. I recommend either going to a local computer store, Best Buy, Fry's, Microcenter, and trying out their keyboards, or buying something like this. Not sure if they have switch testers for membrane switches though. And you gotta remember even if two different keyboards use the same exact switch, they can still feel a little different. It's all up to feel and personal preference. You could be an outlier and prefer membrane switches for gaming.

E-Element z88. I’ve had it for about a year, it’s great. Not sure of the switches but I’m pretty sure they come in Outemu blues, reds or browns. Great keyboard for about 40 bucks. It comes with rgb so that’s a bonus, and on top of that you don’t have to solder to change the switches. You can find it here

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Built-In-Multi-Touch/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418788478&sr=8-1&keywords=k400r

Its a great keyboard with a good all around touchpad. Its a decent size as well. Its around 2/3 the size of most standard keyboards. Its from logitech and uses the unifying connector via usb, so it dosent drain your battery with bluetooth. Since it uses the unifying connector, you can also connect your choice of logitech wireless mice using the same connector. I'm pretty happy using the http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Zone-Touch-Mouse-Windows/dp/B0093H4VBU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418788773&sr=8-1&keywords=t400 when im not traveling. However, when i am, the touchpad works well.

Magni 2 Uber basically replaced by Magni 3 btw. Also, Hifiman HE400i somewhat superceded by Massdrop's HE-4XX which I think have a more comfortable looking headband (i have the HE400i and dont like the headband). iDSD Micro BL is awesome btw in case u havent heard it yet. Also if u want a TKL brown switch keyboard may i recommend considering Velocifire TKL01 from Amazon if you are interested in a cheap alternative, its what I use at work. https://smile.amazon.com/Mechanical-Velocifire-TKL01-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01MS8YTYX/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510768682&sr=8-1&keywords=velocifire+tkl

I'm looking for my second mechanical (First was a Razer Blackwidow lol) , I've been without one for almost half a year now, and I think it's about time haha.

I'll be be using it almost exclusively for gaming, and I want to avoid clicky switches (too noisy), I think I've pretty much decided on Browns (I don't want to wait for a Tester kit, so I'm going with the safest, most similar switch to the blue)

as a side note, are some keyboards capable of changing out the types of switches inside of them?


How is this keyboard? https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0

The low price is appealing, but at the same time I'm concerned about the quality. Otherwise it seems perfect.

another option is this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823201083

It's on sale, but I could do without the numpad to make some room


Are there some other great options I should be looking at too?

You mention wanting to use Netflix - Although support for Linux is coming shortly, you're pretty much locked to Windows at this stage.

For media center software, I'd go for XBMC - It runs on everything, has a massive community, and plugins for pretty much everything you're after.

For Keyboards and remotes, you have 2 options - I'd get a cheap USB remote and a Logitech Harmony to pull it all together. I'm a big fan of the Harmony 650, which I personally use: http://hometheatrelife.com/logitech-harmony-650-review/

The other option is a media center keyboard like the Logitech K400r, another which I have: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Built-In-Multi-Touch/dp/B005DKZTMG/

With the TV tuner, read the reviews online and check which standard your country uses. i.e. UK uses DVB-T, US uses another standard I believe

I am a high school student interested in upgrading from my Dell stock keyboard to something within my budget.

I am looking at this guide and I want to know if this board (an EagleTec KG010 Office) had standard caps so I could switch out the honestly terrible looking font.

If this board is no good in your opinion, I was also looking at this board (a Coolermaster Storm QuickFire Rapid) because I like the aesthetics of the TKL boards, and I have the same questions.

Any help I can get would be fantastic!

With love,

/u/osheanman

Fair point. In my case, my trackball is wireless, so I can carry it to the couch. I also have a Logitech K400. Used to be $25 shipped, but Amazon woke up and realized how popular and great they were, and now they want another $15. The K400 Plus is $26 shipped, but I don't know about it. Considering getting one just to have one in both rooms. The K400 is absolutely a wonderful keyboard to have. Won't measure up to a mechanical, obviously, but for something you can put on your lap on the couch, it goes above and beyond. Again, no experience with the Plus.

Everything depends on how much you want to spend. I'll outline what I did:

1. I use an Intel NUC with Windows 8.1. Whole thing cost around $1000 but it should last me for a while. Honestly, it's kind of a pain to set up and get working 100% (with Remotes and whatnot). And you'll need a keyboard to properly navigate it. In my bedroom, I have a Amazon Fire TV, which is much cheaper and handles 1080p, and only needs a single remote to navigate, but won't handle your usenet functions.
   
   
2. I have Tweaknews as a primary. Very few takedowns. reliable speeds. YMMV.
   
   
3. Yes. Don't risk getting caught. I have Private Internet Access.
   
   
4. I chose the most popular apps because of the wealth of resources out there. If I ever ran into a problem setting it up, a quick google would answer about 90% of my questions.
   
   
5. I use a [QNAP 8 bay] (http://www.amazon.com/QNAP-TS-869-PRO-8-Bay-SATA-6Gbps/dp/B007K9WEFI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1406757597&sr=8-7&keywords=qnap) (16 TB total Raid 5). Rock solid. 8 TB for primary and the other 8 to backup the first 8.
   
   
6. Yes, once you get rolling on downloads, you do not want to lose them. Get Raid, make backups.
   
   
7. I use MySQL. [Here's how to do it.] (http://wiki.xbmc.org/index.php?title=MySQL) XBMC will only use ONE user account, so no tracking multiple users watched shows. You'll be messing around with XML files so make sure you have some comfort in this.
   
   
8. Use the right tool (like Sickbeard) and it will auto rename files for you. I manually download my movies and name them always in the same naming convention.
   
   
9. It will take a while to get everything set up and running. I've probably spent 40 hours over the last year making it as automated as I could and still don't have it perfect. Just tackle it a little at a time, and piece by piece you'll get there.
   
   
10. I have XBMC and Netflix because, sometimes, Netflixing is just easier.

Nice! I just tried out a few mechanical keyboards for the first time at fry's this morning, fell in love, and I've been shopping around for one all day!! Is this your keyboard? I was leaning towards this since it looks like a great intro 60% keyboard. Anything you don't like about it or would do differently? What's the significance of the PBT doubleshots? I just read up a little - they're more durable?

I highly recommend the Super Scholar Z-88 (there are multiple revisions of this keyboard). It does have multiple RGB configs and you're able to replace the keys from stock to another type (Blues, Reds, Blacks, Browns). I was able to convert mine from Blue keys to Browns and I've been extremely satisfied. My wife owns the same keyboard with Reds and she loves the feel and response. Most importantly, the keyboard uses a detachable USB and works flawlessly with the Xim Apex.

​

Link

Well If you don't mind going slightly over you can get this instead.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $217.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 PC MATE ATX AM4 Motherboard | $84.33 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $120.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Sandisk - SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $76.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.33 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card | $498.68 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT - S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case | $68.89 @ B&H
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.49 @ SuperBiiz


Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $133.49 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1329.08
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-19 13:12 EDT-0400 |

You don't need 32gb of ram for gaming. Right now the sweet spot is 16 gb of ram so for that extra 80 bucks saved you can up the gpu to a 1080. Or you can still go with a 1070 and save about 130$

Edit forgot about the mouse and keyboard,
https://smile.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=pd_sim_147_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M0QEYR4&pd_rd_r=8XN3BCP2YPXKP8YVEN0G&pd_rd_w=IdyCZ&pd_rd_wg=RYHjC&psc=1&refRID=8XN3BCP2YPXKP8YVEN0G


https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kJM323/logitech-mouse-910004615


So you can go with the 1070 and get a good combo when it comes to your mouse and keyboard.

I'm sure the enthusiasts at /r/mechanicalkeyboards will hate me, but I have the Mechanical Eagle Kg011, or something like that, from Amazon. Cost me 50 bucks with blue switches and blue LEDs, and I know they have it in black with blue LEDs. It's cheap, it's loud, and it is pretty well built.

EDIT: In particular, I was referring to this keyboard. Mine is the silver with white keys, and its treated me well the past few months. It's certainly very loud and clacky though, so be ready for that.

My first mechanical keyboard was also black, and alas, I eat at my desk a lot. Eventually, that activity killed my black keyboard.

When I ordered the new keyboard, I bought 2 keyboard skins. I can type with them on, and it's much cleaner. I rinse them about once a month. They don't last forever, but it's worth it to protect these white keys.

Also, this keyboard is not actually ALL white. It has very light metal top-bottom frame, but the keys are pure white. It's VERY nice though. The glow from the keys is especially nice at night. Both blue and sometimes a little pink.

Eagletec KG011 Mechanical Keyboard

And the keyboard sleeves, which I highly recommend, even if your a touch typist.

I second the Dell Optiplex.

Here's one for $150. It includes an i5 3550, 8GB of ram, a 500GB HDD, an optical drive, and Windows 10 Pro. A very good deal that will overcome the overpriced ram problem.

Here's a $90 1080p, 60Hz, IPS monitor.

Here's a $225 GTX 1050 Ti (MSRP: $140). All graphics cards above a GT 1030 are overpriced right now.

Here's a $95 Samsung 860 EVO 250GB SSD. You can clone the operating system on the HDD to it.

Here's a $27 blue switch mechanical keyboard. (or if you want a more silent keyboard get this $40 brown switch keyboard).


You may want to replace the power supply. Here's a good one for $50.

• • -
    Total: $637
    
    I'm sorry, but you will have to forgo having a blue case with LEDs and a side-window if you wish to have a decent PC at or below your $700 budget. Good luck building!

I'm at 250 hours for CSGO and 50 on CSS. One problem I've found is I used to play a TON of TF2 and COD, Which encourage Run N' Gunning while Counterstrike... Not so much. I am using This, This and This for my gear, Although I plan on getting a new keyboard and mouse soon. My FPS stays at 60 or so usually but ranges from 40-120 FPS. I know my callouts and a good amount of Nade spots. If you could explain or link a website that expands on what these are stutter stepping, inside lane's, peeker's advantage, pop flash's, trading, and passive angle's. Thanks for taking the time to help me out!

I think it's white only. You could paint it ;)

When I was shopping for a work board, I was looking for brown switches and trying to stay cheap. My choices came down to the Magicforce and this Velocifire. I already had Outemu browns on my first mech, and really wanted to try Gaterons after seeing everyone say they're appreciably smoother (they really are), so I went for the Magicforce. Options are a little more open in the cheaper boards if you like blue switches, but then that depends on your budget. There's a CoolerMaster on that list now with PBT keycaps, which might make it a really sweet deal if it's in your price range and you like the way it looks. I feel like I'm opening the wormhole now^please^stop^me^help

It might be easiest to start narrowing it down by switch type first, then aesthetics, staying in whatever your price range is.

I would get a switch tester first, unless you truly like Red switches more than other switches.

Great starter keyboard not exactly TKL though


This is nice


This one has great stock keycaps I think it's worth the premium


If you want some LEDs


IMO I think the stock keycaps look great on this one

I'm looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard as my normal keyboard had a powerade related malfunction last night completely unrelated to my ability to hold a drink like a fully grown adult human being.

That being said my only "requirements" are that it is wired, backlit, and quiet. The gaming PC sits in the same room as the TV/living area and I do not want to click-clackety disturb everyone around me. Budget under 100$ preferably closer to 50$. Please help, I don't know what to look for. I don't expect premium or professional quality with my budget, just something that's a little more responsive than a normal board.

Edit: If someone doesn't help me today, I am going to buy this monstrosity: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Illuminated-backlighted-KG010-EagleTec/dp/B015MPQQ0A/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1510840081&sr=8-7&keywords=mechanical+keyboard&dpID=51yVSxefYTL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Unfortunately, I didn't take anyone's word for it here and I bought a Corsair K70 Lux RGB. I love this thing. Even if it's not what you normal mech-heads would love, I am in awe. I especially like the RGB and i thought it was kind of gimmicky when I saw it at first.

A few years ago I upgraded to the Logitech G710+ Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Tactile High-Speed Keys and the SteelSeries Sensei Laser Gaming Mouse in hopes of getting better. Played a bunch of Battlefield 4 on it, was ok. But when I got BF4 on sale for the Xbox later... man it was seriously night and day how much better I was with a controller.

Funny thing is, I'm really good at World of Warcraft PvP with his keyboard mouse set up. But when you think about it, you have sticky target. You don't aim, all you have to do is move around. That helped me figure out what I can't get down in FPS, the combination of moving AND aiming!

I'm a straight up weirdo! Haha.

Hey guys I originally wanted to get a ducky one 2 mini but found the GH60 GK61 just now and now want to know where I should buy the switches and keycaps. I think i want red switches but I would love to get some custom keycaps are there any good sites/artist/products I can get?

And do you know any cheap 60% custom keyboard case that has "feet" so I can elevate the keyboard as I wish?

if you don't have overly large hands and dont use a full palm grip (i use a hybrid palm/claw kinda), i highly recommend the logitech g502 mouse. it may look weird but its super comfortable and tracks superbly.

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Proteus-Tunable-Customizable-910-004074/dp/B00IRHE892

i also have the logitech g710+ mechanical keyboard and i like it. (its on a major sale on amazon right now)

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

It really all depends on just how much media you consume. I myself cut the cord and consume all my entertainment online so I have a couple of 2TB HDD's in an XBMC build in my living room. As for your video card question, it's technically not integrated graphics. It's an APU which means it has Radeon graphics cores from the video cards onboard, meaning that it does have gaming performance, albeit nowhere near as powerful as a dedicated GPU. But your OP does say you're going to mostly play older games so it shouldn't be too much of a problem for an APU to handle. As for the case I chose it just because it was from money left over in the budget, I like to leave a little off from the budget for sales tax. There's other cases that are good like this Silverstone ML05B. As for your video output question I'm not entirely sure. Although I don't quite understand as to why you would want two separate video outputs. You could just connect an HDMI to a TV and have a wireless keyboard like the Logitech K400 or something more like a remote like the Favi Mini Keyboard.

The apple keyboard folio is awesome but expensive. If you don’t need/want it to be part of the case then this one is a great deal: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0148NPH9I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s Bluetooth, can connect to 3 devices, and has a 1yr battery life (8hrs/day usage they claim).

Edit: this is the same one recommend by u/EveryLivingLine above :)

The best bluetooth keyboard with integrated touchpad I've used is the Logitech K830. It rates as a 'just ok' typing experience - they're not fantastic keys with just the right travel with a good click - but they're fine for casual typing.

For portability, I've got a Lindon-Tech Foldable. No dedicated left/right-click buttons (so you've gotta one-finger or two-finger tap). The fold throws off the keyboard layout a wee bit. The typing experience is kinda meh. But, its very compact and great for when I'm away from home.

I know you said not a combo but this is a very good non official keyboard.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MUTWMGY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1465422859&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=k480

Since it is multi device, you can use it for your phone too. Really love the slot on top so you can just "dock" your device, no stand needed.

I like this one too but it doesn't have the slot on top so you need a tablet stand
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0148NPH9I/ref=psdcmw_12879431_t1_B00MUTWMGY

I've used a few wireless keyboard/mice devices with my HTPC, including a Lenovo N5902, the one in OP's image, phone mouse/keyboard apps for iOS and Android, and finally settled on the Logitech K400r.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DKZTMG?pc_redir=1407353314&robot_redir=1

Really recommend the K400. Having a nearly full sized keyboard makes typing so much easier, and if you hand it to a guest they don't have to fumble around with it like some piece of Alien technology. The track pad is great and the battery life is excellent.

There are a few tablet/laptop-esque projects/kits with the Pi, and as you might suspect, they vary greatly in quality and cost.

Here are a few options, to show you what is out there:

• Pi-Top
  
• LapPi
  
• PiPad
  
• HDMIPi
  
• others?
  
  I only briefly tried the HDMIPi with Raspbian, and am sure there are some settings to change, but I found some text a little difficult to read. I plan on fiddling with that again after I get a few other things out of the way.
  
  For OS, the "standard" would be Raspbian. There are probably a couple others that might work for what you need, but Raspbian is the one the Raspberry Pi organization has focused on. As for productivity software, LibreOffice is available from the Pi Store.
  
  Most cases are the same, so it would be up to taste, if using one of the laptop/tablet things above, the Pi enclosure is included/part of the build.
  
  Cables will depend on your specific needs, again, most of the laptop/tablet things will include or list the needed cables.
  
  Other things to consider would be:
  
  
• Keyboard and mouse: you can use most USB KB+Ms, but a wireless combo would probably be best. I use a Rii, which is about the size of a cell phone and good for when you have to do little things here and there, but suck for more typing, especially when you have bigger hands. I also use Logitech K400, much bigger and easier to use, fantastic range and battery life too.
  
• Storage: USB flash drives or the microSD card, nothing special of note here
  
• Power: In college, a lot of my classes were in the "old" buildings, so plugs were few and far between; in the newer buildings that wasn't an issue. Depending on your setup, a wall-wart is likely, but there are a wide variety of USB power banks that might work to power your build.
  
• WiFi adapter

Hey, so my answer will be similar to the others here. But it really depends what you're looking to do with it.

Bare minimum:

• raspberry pi board (duh)
  
• power cable - i used an old USB phone charger from an old cel phone
  
• hdmi cable - needed for output to display
  
• monitor/display - computer monitor, tv, really anything that accepts hdmi input - i used what i had already at home
  
• SD card - at least 8GB. I like the class 10 cards for better speed
  
• mouse/keyboard - i bought this keyboard since it's small and has a touchpad built in: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=lp_12879431_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1416191522&sr=1-1
  
• internet connection: ether wired using an ethernet cable or wireless by buying a wifi dongle
  
• case - technically optional but recommended
  
  Also check out this getting started page: http://www.raspberrypi.org/help/quick-start-guide/
  
  When you start adding things, especially if needing more USB ports you can get a powered USB hub which is very useful. I use this: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Terminus-Technology-backwards-compatibility/dp/B003Z4G3I6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416191766&sr=1-3&keywords=powered+usb+hub+pluggable
  
  Good luck!
  

Mech keyboards are awesome but if wait until a little bit later to get one. Grab a switch tester on amazon, like this one and find out your preference. Then shop some used markets like Craigslist or /r/mechmarket and pick up the perfect board for you.

I have this NUC: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SD9IS1S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

And I have it in this case: http://www.performance-pcs.com/akasa-plato-fanless-case-with-serial-port-for-intel-nuc.html

The CPU has an HD6000 GPU which has partial h.265 hardware support. So playback of h.265 is practically effortless. The fanless case is amazing and keeps the whole thing nice and cool while being absolutely silent (thanks to SSD as well). The case also maintains the built in IR port so it lets me use my Logitech remote. Though it helps to use EventGhost to translate IR commands to direct Kodi commands.

Even during full playback, the whole thing draws less than 20watts.

Edit: oh, and if anyone wants to do the same, I suggest getting these as well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UTTBN3A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01
That way you can attach external antennas if you want to use the NUC's wifi.

I also use this keyboard http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZOPVSKW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00 which uses the built in Bluetooth of the NUC. So the only things actually plugged into the NUC is the power cable and HDMI cable.

TKL is short for tenkeyless, which is a keyboard without the number pad. Since you want a full-size, you can check out the Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro L, iKBC MF108 (no black switches though, and not currently in stock, but a nice aluminum case), Ducky Shine 6, etc.

There aren't really any perks, it's just a personal preference. You can get a switch tester, but that won't really give the best impression since you'll just be pushing down one switch and not actually typing. You can try to visit local computer shops to see if they have keyboards on display to try out.

You can buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Built-In-Multi-Touch/dp/B005DKZTMG

Try to think of it like a remote for you TV.

Had to add this, it is pretty easy to do too, this 3 year old turned on the computer, started his favorite movie, and then started his favorite game: http://i.imgur.com/am0LYaZ.jpg

GH60 (GK61) vs GMMK Compact, just buying the base. What are the main differences, besides software? Looking for a hot-swappable base and to program/hotkey the bottom right buttons as arrows, and I believe I've found the full switch-compat version of the GK61 here, rather than the optical version that seems to be every other listing.

Looks like the GK61 is USB-C, and supports 3 or 5-pin switches, and has a light board. But, FN cannot be moved (bad for arrows).

While the GMMK is Mirco-USB and only supports 3-pin, or 5-pin if you remove the legs, and a dark board with a metallic trim. The FN key can be swapped with Caps Lock, which should allow me to freely map the arrows to the bottom right 4 keys. I've heard the FN layer can't be adjusted, but I don't think I mind that too much.

---

They're roughly the same price, but I don't really see much else different - is it basically going to be if I value better arrow-key usage/mapping (GMMK) vs wider aftermarket compatibility with USB-C, and slightly wider switch support (GK61)?. I'm leaning towards GMMK for the functionality.

Here's all of the decent cheap ones I have saved on amazon. Only problem is that I think they're all cherry blue (replica) switches, so they're all pretty loud. Also, these are all tenkeyless because no one needs number pads unless they do data entry, and they take up a lot of space. I've had the tomoko keyboard on this list for about 2 years now and it's still in perfect condition.

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS8YTYX/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2KMSWMBKNTIF3&colid=2SDHJYONXPZ92
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8KO2B0/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IZ1F5D00APYIZ&colid=2SDHJYONXPZ92
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EFR1SFY/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3TSGLX5AAKCM9&colid=2SDHJYONXPZ92
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DA74C8K/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3HGRPL2A84NWM&colid=2SDHJYONXPZ92
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBJTZU2/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I9HAIFFJ19ZLK&colid=2SDHJYONXPZ92
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MAK38U/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2A9RX57141X1S&colid=2SDHJYONXPZ92
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MBNR8M/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2YK4OFRPH1I04&colid=2SDHJYONXPZ92
  
  and if you want to spend a little more, this is definitely the best mechanical keyboard available unless you're gonna go custom with something like a ducky or poker: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068INSUM/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1EDD2K4OOD7OB&colid=2SDHJYONXPZ92

I was looking for the same thing and found the CM Storm Quickfire TK which does go over your budget but you can probably find a good deal on ebay. Also the Logitech G710+ is meant to be good but again goes a bit over your budget.


Other than that, listen to everyone else here and get the Magicforce 68 which is far cheaper and has better value.

It's pretty nice if you connect your PC to your TV, get one of these and a Xbox controller and you can lean back in your sofa and use your TV to play. Pretty nice for single player games like the Fallout series and emulators.

Hey sorry I took so long. Some personal stuff came up and when I got back I saw what was happening with op and had to help there first.

So after looking for a bit I fond this Team Wolf with borwns which will have a bump and some noise but o-rings can help. For $10 more you can get black switches which are linear like reds but have a heavier spring so it takes more force to push.

The lights are static and the board has a few profiles including off.

Now for $40 you can also get a Magiforce 68. Now I know it isn't a tkl, I'm just trying to show a few options for budget boards because most budget boards just use blues.

I will advise you head over to /r/MechanicalKeyboards to ask for a budget tkl with linear switches because a lot of people over there know more than me. Tactile with o-rings can help with the noise so those are an option as well.

It's the MagicForce Blue Switch 68-Keys Mini but I wouldn't recommend it. It's cheap and the perfect form factor for my taste but it's extremely noisy due to the stabilizers and I believe aluminium frame. I prefer my New Poker 2 over the MagicForce by far. I bought it to test out the form factor before I drop $200 on the NightFox.
I love mini keyboards but I need the arrow keys for text editors when working. I believe the NightFox to be the perfect keyboard for this. The build quality is insanely over engineered and top shelf. I may go ahead and replace it now because I just noticed the NightFox is on sale for $150. Woop Woop!

I know you said "besides a computer" but I've been using this for 6 or so months and absolutely love it. It's the perfect size and handles Kodi great. I have a very heavy build on it and it just keeps chugging along. It's also small and quiet.

Paired with this keyboard it works very well.

Monitor
Keyboard
Mouse
Speaker

Like you said, not top of the line stuff. If you'd like to spend more than I would recommend spending more on the keyboard. Everything else is surprisingly decent. Good luck.

Gmote is your friend.

Alternatively, this is a good solution. I remember getting it for $20, not $30, and it's awkward to do any real typing on, but it works great as a compact solution for things like having a mouse to control Netflix with, and being able to type in the Netflix search field.

Here's the MF68 in stock on Amazon with Outemu blues. I've tried a bunch of cheap mechanical keyboards at work and at home, and for my money the MF68 is by far my favorite. It's a solid board, great switches, great layout with no weird size caps (meaning any standard cap set will fit it), and the stock caps are nice thick ABS. The only thing I don't like about it is the cap font. Access to the Fn key combos is intuitive. Hands down the best $40 board out there today.

Edit: I missed where you said you wanted backlighting, my bad. Getting a solid board with backlighting pushes you over $40, at least by my idea of solid. I'd get one without backlighting and upgrade if you miss it?

So I hate to have you start a new addiction ;) but the ladies and lads over at /r/mechanicalkeyboards have a plethora of different keyboards varying in price. The caps were gifted to me and originally black. This is a MagicForce 68 that I purchased used from a friend so I am not 100% on the MSRP this has MX Black on it.


Keycaps: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/galaxy-c-pbt-all-over-dye-subbed-keycap-set currently have a sale on Massdrop for them I saw. My friends got it for me during Christmas at the original $100 price point this is Almost 50 bucks off!

Keyboard:The Black on is the pricer of the two probably be cause of the switches. https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PUNA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486745275&sr=8-5&keywords=magicforce+68


Looks like the White version is on Sale also!
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486745211&sr=8-1&keywords=magicforce+68

I very recently purchased my first mechanical keyboard, the Magic Force 68. I decided on this board, because it is the cheapest board listed in the buying guide.
Here are some things I do or don't like about it:

-I love the size and shape. I think you'd call this a 65% layout? It's probably my favorite part about the board.

-It feels very well built. Sturdy and doesn't slide around.

-Mechanical keys feel much nicer than the rubber ones; I believe these are Gateron Browns.

-I like the "tactile bump."

But

-I think the keys feel somewhat mushy. I don't care for them much.

-I don't like the color at all; I didn't think I would mind, but it's REALLY white and I just don't care for it.


Can you recommend any keyboards of similar design that maybe have clear or light gray switches?
I'd like a darker colored keyboard and RGB or back-lighting would be considered a plus.

I'm trying to keep it under $100, but so far the Glorious Modular Keyboard at $110 seems to be the closest thing I can find and it is TKL but not compact.

please update with how it goes :) the cable I was using was actually a Y cable, one end to power the screen, one end to power the pi with the antenna getting power from usb on the pi. It kept warning me about power along with hanging that couldn't be explained by software issues, so i set the screen aside and used the pi in another project. really wanting to try it out again since I really like the mobile pi concept. i even got a wireless usb mini keyboard for it, but just use it as a remote now lol. here is the model i got. it works super well for what it is intended for, and the build quality is decent for the price. it is rechargeable so it can take a load off the pi

I have an Ultra Classic as my office board - similar to OP's, with blanks.

Best board I've used (been through several). I like heavy switches (all my boards have had blues), and I have yet to find something that feels as good as buckling springs.

I have a cheapo Z-88 from Amazon that I'm going to dissect and swap some 120g springs. I'll let you know if that's better. :)

Here ya go man. It should take a couple of days, but if you order now, you could have it by next week.

Well that helps! Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ELVLKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464499525&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cheap+usb+keyboard&dpPl=1&dpID=41zwK7PC56L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JVMBMNK?pf_rd_p=330fbd82-d4fe-42e5-9c16-d4b886747c64&pf_rd_r=JQ2PEBJEWVYXV63RRHPJ

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Something like this could be ideal, means you can choose decent Switches for her little hands to use and is just alphas and modifiers affordable and well reviewed I'd recommend it for sure, and its got goodies such as usb-c and RGB fun stuff tbf

Enjoy the redragon k552. Buttons a bit too loud though.

I enjoy the feel of my Logitech g510. I think that is a membrane keyboard but it feels different from other membrane keyboards. I'm not big into the technicalities of mechanical keyboards so i don't exactly know how to explain it but I'll give it a try.

I'm looking for a mechanical keyboard from amazon for my secondary pc. Would like 60%-87key keyboard, similar feel to the g510, the k552 feels nice but feels too rigid and clicky for me. Around $30-$60 if possible.

Some that i have looked at that interest me.

Mechanical Keyboard Gaming Keyboard Brown Switch 68-Keys Mini Design (60%) Gaming Wired Keyboard White Silver Magicforce by Qisan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8KO2B0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iIKkzbX9SWYHR

Qisan Gaming Keyboard Mechanical Wired Keyboard Blue Switch Backlight keyboard 82-Keys Extreme Simple Design Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01890YINM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1IKkzb61W5XE4

Corsair Vengeance K65 Compact Mechanical Gaming Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOWCQ0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VJKkzbPC5VNCP

First things first is a good (mechanical) keyboard, it doesn't seem like a huge difference until you get one. I use both a Logitech G710+ and a Razer Black Widow, both are targeted at gamers but make excellent typing keyboards. I also use the macro keys quite often during daily life so they come in handy as well.

Next is a good autocorrect script, I wrote my own one using a software called Autohotkey, you can find an already very good one here, you can then adapt it to autocorrect your mistakes by pressing Win+G on a highlighted misspelled word and entering a correction.

Third is practice of course, especially regarding ten finger typing. Comes with time.

I'm currently looking for a full-sized mechanical keyboard with brown (preferably cherry) switches and either blue or rgb lighting. After looking around for a while it seems that the corsair k70 rgb would probably be the best I could buy, however this is an expensive keyboard and I would like something cheaper if possible. Can anyone recommend a keyboard that meets my requirements for a more reasonable price?

Also, I found this keyboard while looking around on amazon, it offers knockoff brown switches and blue lighting for a fraction of the cost of other options.

https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484552878&sr=1-3&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+brown

The thing I'm worried about if the quality, I'd like to know what anyone thinks about this keyboard and if it's worth it.

Thanks.

if youre alright with a tenkeyless, i recently got the qisan magicforce just to try out brown switches and its actually a great keyboard for the price, i was very surprised. if you dont care about back lighting and media keys etc and are just looking for a high quality, nice feeling keyboard, give it a try:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8KO2B0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_AsAqDbENEX0JN

(also do not be fooled by cheap keyboards. not only do most people dislike the general clickiness of blue switches, cheap keyboards usually also have this metallic sound when you type and it really gets on peoples nerves)

as for the mouse, ive had a rival 300 for 3 years now and i cant complain, its simple but its got a great sensor and feels nice. its a bit large though.

Keeping with the proteus core theme you could go with a logitech g710+ (ten key) with brown switches or blue switches. I got my 710+ with brown switches for $90 on amazon and I really love it. The build quality is real solid. I like the neutral white back light of the keyboard to match any lighting in your case. It's also got 10 macro keys, media keys, and variable lighting settings. I've only ever had to deal with logitech customer support once and it was a pleasant experience. I can't say the same about Corsair, they didn't live up to my expectations.

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427342367&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+g710

Not intuitive, though. Using a PC is made more for a desk with a keyboard and mouse, rather than a couch and a controller.

With a controller, you can't generally navigate the OS, or most programs for that matter. Even Steam's Big Picture Mode isn't perfect, because sometimes you get menus that pop up that you can't close unless you mouse-click the close window button.

Not only that, but it's not all that comfortable to have a keyboard and mouse with you on the couch. Unless you have a setup where you have a small table next to you on the couch that accommodates a K+M.

I have tried this, though, with some small amount of success. I placed a media center PC in the living room, and connected an Xbox wireless module to it. For navigating the OS, and other functions, I used this Logitech wireless keyboard. While it was fun for a little while, but I moved back to my desk setup, because it was more comfortable. Not only that, but it was kinda hard to read anything on a 1080p screen over 10 feet away, rather than a monitor that's less than 2 feet away from me.

Not impossible, but not perfect either, and most console peasants won't even go as far as I did to make it work. So for them, it might as well be as impossible as moving a mountain by yourself.

Just took a peek on Amazon and that honestly looks like a really good deal if what you're looking for is a fullsize. It's god Outemu Blue switches which a lot of people consider the best kind of cherry blue clone. A word of warning, if you want a quiet keyboard this is not it. It will be very loud.

One more thing, full size keyboards (i.e. those with an arrow cluster and a numpad) are pretty much the worst form factor for gaming. I'd personally suggest you go for something like this Tomoko board (it's branded as Pictek but it's actually Tomoko) or this Magicforce 68 which is a smaller form factor but is probably the best bang-for-your-buck board on the market.

It sounds like you just want a wireless controller. They recently added xbox360 support, so a wireless receiver + wireless xbox360 controller would work, or a wired one for that matter.

If you want it to be done from your phone, you might want to look into something like HippoRemote or something similar -- it turns your phone into a wireless mouse/keyboard/gamepad, with macros and such for specific apps


Theres also just wireless keyboards and stuff that would work. I have a http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-920-003070/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375578922&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+keyboard and like it a lot -- it has a built in multitouch trackpad so you have keyboard and mouse in something relatively small, but not so small that you're constantly fatfingering stuff like the super small keyboards.

I use a logitech K400 available here http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-920-003070/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374692971&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+K400

It's got a cute little USB dongle, but it's amazing. Should work OOB with anything that supports USB keyboards, and has a touchpad RIGHT THERE. There is a left click button on the top left corner which I originally thought would get no use. It's pretty much how I use it now.

Logitech G710+. They run sales on it in the $100-110 range usually. A little pricey but I love mine since it integrates with the G series software that I already use for my mouse and headset. It doesn't have the LCD screen that the former G series keyboards and has less G keys but being mechanical more than makes up for that.

I would highly recommend finding an electronics store that has mechanical keyboards available to try though. The Cherry MX switch colors do drastically change the feel. Generally people prefer Red for gaming and Blue for typing, but the Browns are a good balance of both and also include dampeners to reduce the noise (mechanical keyboards can be VERY loud). Once you go mechanical you'll never go back though!

I highly recommend this one for $40: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DBVH16U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The build quality for the price is really good. The switches are Gaote / Outemu Blue switches, not Cherry MX's, but they feel really nice still, though this is my first mechanical keyboard so I can't compare.
I've had it for 3 months so far and not a single problem, and I'm happy with it!

I don't remember the size of the Dell, but that Anker mouse is exactly 5 inches (12.7 cm) from front to back. It fits my hand very well, but I think I have slightly smaller than average hands.

Anyway, I also plan to get a mechanical keyboard this year. I've already gotten this key switch sampler, and I've settled on getting blue switches. For anyone interested, it looks like that one is unavailable currently, but the 4-key version (which I probably could have gone with myself) is still in stock.

Find a way to test out the different Cherry MX switches (there are other mechanical switcher other than Cherry MX, but Cherry is by far the most popular design).

Microcenter, Fry's Electronics, Best Buy (if they have a Razer/Logitech PC accessory display), and your local enthusiast store are all outlets to try them out. If that's not possible, you can order a sampler kit. Keep in mind that Razer might have the newer, Khail, switches...which are Chinese knockoffs of Cherry since their trademark expired. Jury is still out on their quality..but you know...Chinese knock off vs German engineering.