Computers can get loud to some people, to others they don't care. It's really more personal preference than anything.

Here's my selection of parts for you to look at:

Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $139.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI 890FXA-GD65 ATX AM3 Motherboard | $129.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Kingston HyperX 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $47.99 @ Newegg
Hard Drive | Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $60.87 @ Amazon
Video Card | XFX Radeon HD 6950 1GB Video Card | $222.55 @ Newegg
Case | Silverstone PS05-B ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Silverstone 600W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $68.65 @ Amazon
|| Total
| (Prices include shipping and discounts when available.) | $720.03
Additional Parts | -- Parts not available on parts picker --| --
Optical | Lite-On LightScribe 24X SATA DVD+/-RW | $22.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Asus VE228H 21.5" Full HD HDMI LED | $159.98 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Logitech Access Keyboard 600 | $21.95 @ Amazon
Mouse | Razer Deathadder 3500 | $44.93 @ Amazon
Mouse Pad | Razer Goliathus Omega S | $14.99 @ Amazon
Headphones | Audio-Technica ATH-AD700 | $93.90 @ buy.com
|| Grand Total
| (Prices include shipping and discounts when available.) | $1077.77

Now, I know I strayed dangerously close to your upper, upper limit but I have very good reasons for doing so which I'll explain below.

I'd also like to say (and I may catch some heat for this) I didn't skimp on your peripherals. I got you a great entry level gaming set of gear alongside a fairly high end machine. The headphones are EXTREMELY good though (you said you were an audiophile). The monitor is great quality as well. I spent a little extra on these because they will likely follow you through multiple computers. I've used the same mice, keyboards, etc. for 1-2 generations of builds.

Breakin' it down:

AMD Phenom X4 CPU is a great option for a gaming machine. It's a bit under the new i5's but plenty of power for a primarily gaming platform.

A little bit more money for a nice motherboard gets us our crossfire support for the possibility of future upgrades. also plenty of other ports and a good company name behind it.

A 2 stick 4gb memory kit leaving room to upgrade to 8gb later on. Kingston is a great brand as well.

Samsung Spinpoint 1tb for massive storage and the best value in hard drives to date.

Raedeon 6950 means maximum settings and some Crossfire possibilities in the future. We definitely didn't skimp here. XFX also sends their card out with a lifetime warranty.

Silverstone case. This is a relatively new case with a unique look but Silverstone is a great company. I chose it over the HAF because at the moment it's the same price without a rebate.

Silverstone PSU. Again, Silverstone is a great company. 600watts won't cover crossfire but in this budget we cant afford to; it covers this build fine though. 80+ certified.

Random optical drive. Newegg is usually cheaper but they don't seem to have any free shipping drives available at the moment so Amazon wins this round.

A very nice LED 1080p 22" (21.5) monitor. Well rated and good quality brand.

A nice keyboard that's a bit above your basic crap models. Not much special here but you will be gaming so I at least wanted something solid. Later on if you get more into it you can look into higher end gaming keyboards as an upgrade if you wish.

An excellent mid-range Razer gaming mouse with 3500dpi (which you turn down to your liking). Even if you don't use the full 3500dpi it will increase your precision because the mouse sensor is always running at max. Lots of people underestimate the value of great gaming peripherals and the mouse is definitely one of the most important.

The second thing people always undervalue is a good mouse-pad. I have one of these Razer Goliathus mats and I gotta say it's like I upgraded my mouse. It's a great investment if you're into it.

* Audio Technica AD700 headphones are THE BEST headphones I've ever had for gaming (and I've used $500+ headphones in the past). They are very good for music and movies as well although that's always best done with speakers. Anyway, back to gaming, these headphones have a HUGE sound-stage and contribute to excellent positional awareness in games. I've had mine for 4 years without so much as a bump in their performance and quality. I VERY highly recommend these.

I'm sure I'll catch hell from some people on here that you should be getting a better build and sacrificing peripherals but trust me. Good peripherals contribute a LOT more to the gaming experience than you would think. I've been doing this for years and I've played on everything from stock gateway mice to my now top end $100 Razer mouse; it's totally worth it.

That's awesome, glad you are joining the club! I'm happy to help so by all means ask away:

>Did you individually lube every single switch?

Yeah I lubed every switch (104 total) as I felt it was necessary. Most people lube switches to increase smoothness or to change the sound or feel of a key press, however I did not really notice an increase in smoothness myself as I am still quite a novice myself when it comes to stuff like this. The main reason I did it was because I kept hearing a noticeable "pinging" sound coming from the springs of each switch. Adding lube to the top and bottom of the spring eliminated this sound, and since the switch was opened, I lubed the stems and housing because I might as well do it for the experience. If you're interested in how to do it, here is a very helpful guide to lubing switches by Nathan Kim: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSgPKPoFo2k

​

>If so that’s crazy, is there a tool on how you can do that in a fast manner?

\>>Here<< is a time stamp of two ways to open a switch. The first one is the method I used as using a switch opener was very fast and ergonomic for my hands. If you don't want to buy a switch opener, you could use the flathead screwdriver method as stated in the video, however it seems very time consuming and difficult but you save money. The opener in this video is cheap but I personally used the KBDfans switch opener.

Cheap switch opener
KBDFans switch opener (also available on their aliexpress storefront)
There are other switch openers out there of different material and prices, but they are ultimately all the same and serve the same purpose

​

>What lube did you use

I used Krytox 204 found on NovelKeys but as I am seeing right now they are sold out. The places I check that have lube are sold out or are extremely expensive, so I'll list the only places I know that sell em.

Switchmod is a great place to get em
Expensive ZealPC lube and usually high shipping rates

See if you can find Krytox or Christo Lubes on Amazon or Ebay. Here are also some guides/discussion for each lube:

Krytox Lubes
Christo Lubes

​

>and how long did that take

Hoooo boy. Depends on how good you are and how big your keyboard is. Since I'm a noob and it's 104 switches, it took about 3-5 hours IIRC. I concentrated during the first few switches but it eventually became repetitive so I started watching Twitch and YouTube. I got distracted easily so that probably contributed to the increase in time. YMMV depending on how good you are, how distracted you get, how many switches you lube, etc.

​

>I searched up if the stabilisers were good but it turns out the ones the GMMK came with aren’t the genuine cherry/GMk stabilisers. Which ones do I get if I wanted better ones as there are three options

The GMMK stabs are cherry style (have the + shaped stem) but yeah they aren't genuine ones. Most likely glorious did this to cut costs down. They are definitely lubed but idk if adding more lube would help make them less rattly as you may have seen in my sound test video.

So the stabs I got are from Novelkeys (found here). The GMMK only supports PLATE MOUNT stabs. You will need 1 6.25U plate mount for your spacebar and X number of 2U plate mount stabs for other keys, the value of X depends on your board size of course. If you're unsure how many you need, take off all your keycaps and count your 2U stabs to be extra sure.

I'm sure you probably know this already, but I'll include Nathan Kim's guide to clipping and lubing stabilizers as well.

​

>also how do you pop them off so I can replace them with clipped and lubed ones?

I also found this confusing, so recently I did my best to make a video with my potato quality camera that hopefully clears this up.

​

>I’m based in Aus so I got my GMMK from PCCG and it already came with gateron browns, are these okay? I’m mainly a person that plays games but I definitely do enjoy the typing feel so browns are a cool middle ground. What’s the difference between these and the speedy box royal switches you have?

Bare with me as I try to make this awful parallel. You know how some people can drink the same brand of coffee everyday for the rest of their lives, while others enjoy different brands, flavours, etc. of coffee either daily, or once in a while, etc. The point is everyone drinks coffee differently. It's the same with switches, everyone is different so everyone likes different switches. There's no such thing as the best switch (arguable) and no one but you really knows what is the best switch for you.

Gat browns are definitely one of the more common consumer switches and are a good starting point. Since the GMMK is hotswappable it would definitely be good if you looked into different switch types, but only if that is something YOU want to do. Glorious sells a switch pack filled with the most common Gateron and Kailh switch variants, and this would give you a good direction as to whether you prefer clicky switches, linear switches, or tactile switches. It also gives you variants of each switch type so you can see if you like heavier switches (dependent on springs), if you like the smoothness of one linear, or increased tactility in a tactile switch, or louder clicks in clicky switches, etc. Really the only way to know what you like is by trying different switches, however if you don't want to spend the money then that is also fine because Gateron Browns are a good switch regardless, and will definitely last you a long time.

You can also get switch testers for various other brands, like Cherry switch testers on Amazon (people say Cherry switches are less smooth than Gaterons but YMMV), or Ebay, Aliexpress, etc. for different prices with different switches included. Or you can custom choose switches on NovelKeys as they offer more variety.

(This is more or less my propaganda to get you to try more switches as I want people to be exposed to different switches)

​

>speedy box royal LMAO

Personally (and I say personally because people "experience" switches differently) I find that Gateron Browns have a lighter tactile bump later in the keypress, while Kailh Box Royals have a heavier tactile bump at the beginning of the keypress. These actually reflect in the force curves

Gat Brown force curve
Box Royal force curve

I find Gat Browns to be lighter overall in total actuation, but the Box Royals being box switches also add more stability to the keycaps (the caps wobble a lot less, but I don't notice this often). I enjoy both switches but I felt like trying some new tactile switch, hence why I bought the Box Royals.

​

Hope this nerd essay helps!

CPU

Mother Board

GPU

8GB of RAM

1TB HDD for way more storage space then a console. You could drop the storage space to match a console and save a bit of money, but we won't do that.

PSU Cheaper/lower wattage for this build is possible, but it's better not to skimp

Disk drives are dying out and everything is going digital. Even consoles are showing massive growth in direct game purchases and downloads from PSN/XBL. But here it is if you want one.

Here's a few cases 1 2 3 4. Pick your case based on style, USB ports, whatever. All of those are 30 dollars or less and are mATX, meaning smaller form factor.

So now peripherals. Need a monitor? No you don't, plug it in to your TV. HDMI just like a console and consoles don't come with displays. You might have a monitor already.
Controller/input devices? PCs can use the old controllers you have laying around. Here's a keyboard and mouse recommendation anyway if you want one or don't already own them since most people own a computer for stuff outside gaming. That costs around half the price of an OEM console controller and KB+M is a more accurate input method. Controllers are a comfort thing and are best suited for driving games, but point and click with a high DPI sensor is much more intuitive and accurate than a controller with bad input filtering and clunky auto aim. Microsoft tried cross platform and keyboard and mouse destroyed gamepad/controller players. The only real cross platform right now is Rocket League because controllers are the better input method for driving so it's equal footing. But if you're playing Rocket League on PC, you load in faster. You'll be sitting on an empty field while you wait for other players to connect before the countdown and stuff starts, kinda neat. Also, that one I recommended has a button to change DPI/sensitivity on the fly, no need to bother with settings menus. Seamlessly go from sniping to roaming to driving. The keyboard is back lit and has a few color options.

Operating system? GNU/Linux is free and is getting more and more gaming support every day. It's not as hard as people make it out to be. Get a basic/user friendly distro like Ubuntu and all you really have to do is install. If you're a masochist, a developer, or a masochistic developer get a tougher distro like Gentoo. Funny thing as well, games with Linux support run better on Linux since it's such a great operating system on the software level. SteamOS is also free. Want Windows? Download the OS and put it on a disk or flash drive, install it on the new computer and enter the product key. Where do you get a product key? Don't buy it from a big box retail store for 100 bucks or likely more, you're getting gypped. You can buy 100% legit product keys online. r/microsoftsoftwareswap sells them for 20-25$ and the keys are straight from Microsoft

Also, all of those listings are from Amazon and are Amazon Prime eligible (for the other guy that replied to you that wants to complain about rebates/shipping/living next to a MicroCenter). You can find a lot of those parts cheaper and/or with free shipping. I recommend NewEgg. So you can do even better than the price I'm about to give you (which also means you can get better hardware for better performance):

Here's the itemized list with the prices: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QBVRNG

$448.51 total for a PC that is massively better than current gen consoles. Drop the unnecessary DVD drive and the keyboard+mouse combo and the PC itself comes in at $402.93.

So... brand new parts from a large online retailer with a great support system. You can get even better deals on the parts if you checked other great online retailers like NewEgg. Ten years ago consoles absolutely made sense, but now leaps in hardware design have made better hardware cheaper and the tables have turned.

Does that "come close without cheating"?

Here's a few more kickers now that we have the hard price set:

AMD and Nvidia are about to launch a new line of GPUs, meaning current prices will drop (better performance at lower cost on that build I just gave you) and AMD is specifically focusing on lower/mid range market with higher performance and efficiency. It's going to be great for mainstream gaming rigs.

PC gaming is usually cheaper over time because Intel/Nvida/AMD don't charge development fees (they can't), neither can EVGA/ASUS or whoever makes the parts, neither can Microsoft. Steam takes a cut, but so do stores like GameStop. Stuff like that is why Steam can have massive sales consoles can only dream of and the developers can still profit from a sale. The only reason PC games are 60 dollars like their console equivalents is because it's the standard and they can "get away with it" (especially if you're Microsoft trying to expand Windows 10 and not alienate XBox), but they can make the same or more per sale at a lower cost.

PCs also have the largest game library of any platform and the massive free to play library that comes with it as well. And it's really free, not 'pay 50 a year for a subscription and get to play a game for a month' free

PC is, in theory, forever backwards compatible. Want to play CoD4? Don't shell out the money for Infinite Warfare, just install CoD4 and play on the servers PC still hosts. Games that came out upwards of 10 years ago can still be installed and run with no issue.

You don't have to double spend. No buying a console and a computer for work/school. Put your 300 dollar home computer and 400 dollar console prices together and you made a huge leap in budget to built a killer PC. You also get a much more versatile platform capable of running much more stuff and you get so much more control over your experience.

Logitech G500: Probably one of the most top rated mice you can fine. Good grip, buttons and the speed/reaction of this mouse isn't too bad at all. You can find better but for the money it's a great deal. - Logitech G500

Razer Deathadder: Personally...I like this mouse over the G500 and I'm not the biggest of Razer fan either. This mouse absolutely rocks it for the price. It's more of a Mouse's Mouse, there isn't a ton going on, you have a very good scroll wheel and two functions right where your thumb rests. If you want buttons and all kinds of other stuff look elsewhere, this mouse rocks for what it is. - Razer Deathadder

SteelSeries Xai: It /may/ almost push out the Deathadder as top mouse at a very good mouse. StealSeries I feel delivers some of the best peripherals around, they feel amazing, act great and look equally as "plain" (not flashy) but still have eye candy. The Xai has a color changing LCD in the back to change the colors of the Insignia on the back...if that's your thing. - SteelSeries Xai

Out of all of those, it's hard for me not to recommend the Deathadder. I believe (I forgot to double check the stats) but the DPI is higher for the DA than any of the other mice I listed here and it feels great in your hand.

On to the next thing: Mouse Pad. I almost feel like I'm in the minority when I say that I need a good pad for my mice. Right now I am using a Cyborg RAT 7 with a Kabuto Razer Gaming Pad. It's a bit expensive, but I used this pad with my Deathadder that I had before my RAT 7 and it worked flawlessly with it. I tried it without it and you can see a noticeable difference. However for about the same price, you can get a SteelSeries QcK+ Pad which are quite nice as well (and if you are a person for brand synchronicity, you can get this one with the Xai).

However, no matter what myself or anyone else says: Pick the right mouse for you, we cannot judge what feel good to you. Mice are a hard buy, because recommendations only work if the person who loves it has the same hand structure as you...and normally it doesn't. Some of these things can be found at Best Buy and other brick stores, so if you get a chance go out and try out every mouse you can and find one that works for you before you decide on a specific one.

Cases are super subjective, that one will do fine if you like the look of it. It's an ATX case though, so I think you should get an full ATX motherboard. ATX motherboards have more slots, usually cheaper, and may be higher quality but that's a crapshoot. For the motherboard get this MSI one. It's a little more expensive than the one you have but that's because the one you had a cheaper business chipset. The different in features between the B85 you had and the H87
I'm recommending out is better SATA and USB3 support. Also better power distribution for your CPU the benefits of which isn't super important.

If you were to get a SSD, you would install windows on it and a few games. All of the other stuff will go to your harddrive. There's a SSD optimization guide on the sidebar, it was written for Windows 7 but it should be pretty much the same for 8. If you do end up getting one this Sandisk Extreme is pretty good. You can also look at Samsung's 840 series they're good as well.


Wireless depends on several things, whether you could snake a cable through the house, what kind of router you have (802.11n or above?), and what kind of games you'll be playing (get wired for twitch shooters or MOBA's). The GTX770 is actually a pretty significant improvement over the GTX760, look at benchmarks and determine if you think it's worth it for the games you play. The main thing to look for is that whether it pushes the FPS to over 60.

As for the keyboard. There's mechanical and nonmechanical keyboards. Mechanical keyboards are the clicky type that old IBM keyboards (I dont' know how old you are) were. They feel more solid and are loved by games for their responsiveness. I have a Corsair Vengeance k70 that I love. It's expensive though, there's also the cooler master one. This is a whole another can of worms, there's also different switch types. /r/MechanicalKeyboards can help you there. For the mouse I can safely recommend the Logitech G400 but for MMO's you might want more keys so there's always the G600 by logitech or the Razer Naga. I'm personally not a big fan of Razer's stuff I think they're way too flashy and apparently their build quality has gone down over the years as well. You'll have to do some research on your own there.

I have one. I like it. But I only like it because of the price tag; I make myself like it because of how it costs.

I was one of the people that sped down to fry's electronics on launch day and picked myself a cherry mx red version. I had never used mx red's before, but lately I have been getting into the CS:GO competitive scene and thought I could be in the top 5% if I bought reds. I have no idea why I would think this, but I did.

Now, before I get into the pro's and cons, let me preface this: I've bought 4 mechanical keyboards in the last year: so I'm not a noob with keyboards. I currently own a Quickfire TK, Blackwidow Ultimate 2013, Logitech G710+, and of course, the K70 RGB.
The OG keyboard (and probably my favorite to this day, is the Quickfire TK). It was small, light, never slipped, and always had a very bright backlight (this is important for later). The Blackwidow, also had a gorgeous backlight and this keyboard comes in a close second. Then the last 2 keyboard purchases I've made have since gone down-hill. I figured out I can't live without blue keys. Not reds, not browns, not blacks, hell, not even fucking turquoise.

Now this is probably a personal issue, but I can't live if I am not typing/gaming on blues. While writing this, I HAVE to look down while typing, and it is only on this keyboard. It just feels... weird. Something about blues on my fingers make my "keystrokes" more fluid. So enough with my personal problems with the keyboard, let's get on to the issues everyone has with the keyboard.

Pros:

• The wristrest. I bought this keyboard almost primarily for that. And I can say, that isnt really is a big deal, and I probably won't buy another keyboard without one.
  
• The software; I'm talking about features here. The UI is something different and I'll touch on that later. It really is feature-packed. With the API out there, and the helpful and supportive community, you an literally do anything. Yes, anything.
  
• Media controls. I never knew how much I liked/needed them. They are very useful for muting your mic/speakers for when your family comes in and you are in a skype call with your friends. (I mapped mine to mute my mic, not a native feature obviously).
  
  
• I like the brushed aluminum look, it is quite nice.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• The software; talking about the UI. It is atrocious, but I'm willing to ignore it sense after using it for awhile, it starts to make sense and isn't that terrible.
  
  
• The brightness. I find nobody touches on this, but I guarantee you'll notice it. It seems the LED's are dimmed by 50-75% on purpose. And no, I'm not exaggerating. Now I believe this is because the LED's are mounted within the switch to reduce ESD. However, I would almost want to risk ESD (I've never had a LED be a victim of ESD before), than to have them be less bright. Go pick one up, try it, and you'll automatically notice it on all the colors.
  
  
• No side USB ports / audio ports. Not a huge deal, but I enjoyed them when I was using my black widow.
  
  
• The corsair gaming logo doesn't really bother me, but it might bother you, so, I guess that's a con.
  
  
• The software..again, likes to freeze (pic below). Occasionally, the software won't crash, but the lights will just freeze. Whenever I press a key, it rainbows only that key, and as I'm typing this, a few of my keys are stuck mid-rainbow.
  
  
• I like the brushed aluminum for it's looks, but I don't like how I have to clean it every week or two. I do eat alot at my desk, but I always find hairs, food, and a little bit of coffee stains there. Nothing the keyboard can do about it, and not really a con, but just keep in mind that you will have to clean it alot.
  
  Conclusion:
  
  The keyboard is feature packed and has potential, although it just isn't there yet. I am very excited for a (hopefully) revision 2.0 of this. Essential, if Corsair came out with a razer blackwidow which had a wrist wrest and slightly tweaked the software, I would buy it. The keyboard currently is $133 on amazon for Cherry Blues. At this price, I would say it's worth it to atleast tinker around with. It is a nice keyboard, and I think I will continue using it, however, once again, it needs work.
  
  If you can pick it up for $133 or less, and you aren't going to spend your money on anything better, atleast give it a try; Maybe you'll like it.
  
  I hope you found this informative and useful :D
  
  album

[Keyboard] (https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Illuminated-Industrial-backlighted-EagleTec/dp/B015MPQQ0A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535930246&sr=8-3&keywords=eagletec+mechanical+keyboard)


The keyboard is a bit loud, but I like it a lot. Plus, it's pretty cheap for a mechanical keyboard. especially if you go with just the blue backlight instead of RGB.

Mouse

I have no issues with the mouse whatsoever. If you want more programmable buttons, you could always look at others. (I've always been a fan of Corsair mice, but Logitech has great mice as well.) You can program the color of the logo with Corsair's software to have a bunch of different effects, or stay blue since that's your theme.


Headset 1

This is the headset I've got and I absolutely love it. The sound quality is pretty good plus it's got a great mic compared to other headsets. I did link the refurbished one, though. I have a refurbished one and I've not had any problems. It isn't blue like you asked, but with everything else being blue I don't think it'll look bad since it's a neutral color scheme.

Heasdset 2

My friend has this headset and he thinks it's pretty good. I've never actually used it but he's happy. The mic quality is definitely a little worse and the blue cloth will eventually start to fray and rip. It is still a very popular and liked headset though.

Other people will probably have better suggestions for higher end gear, but if you buy all this you'll only be at around $160-$170, so you'll even have some money left over. Whatever you end up getting, I hope you like it!

Everyone is saying the Logitech G502, and I could not agree more. I actually have 2 of them because I travel quite a bit for work. It has all the buttons you'll need right on the mouse to be an effective slayer of n00bs. It has a button which can select different DPI profiles which makes it easy to switch back-and-forth from Xbox to PC modes.

​

Keyboards can be subjective based on how you like your "finger feel" and noise level. For me, I cannot say enough good things about the Logitech G13 gaming pad (and holy balls I just realized how expensive it is, I don't think they make these anymore. Check on eBay for a cheaper price if interested). Buttons are right where they need to be, and it has nice ergonomic support for your wrist - it's designed for gaming comfort, not cranking out emails. The keys are not too clicky, but also have a nice feel to them. Also included; buttons to quickly switch between gaming profiles. Handy if you need different button keymaps for various different games.

​

My main keyboard, which I've also tested for gaming and cannot say enough good things about, is the Logitech G513. It has a sleek, minimalist design and comes with wrist support. The keys are a bit louder than the G13, but they are easier to press. It also has a surprisingly sturdy frame. The weight of it surprised me during the unboxing. It was oddly satisfying to hold in my hands which gave the impression that it was well engineered and of good quality.

​

As for the XIM, I've been a non-commissioned sales rep for it since the XIM 3 was released. These guys keep making better products, and the XIM Apex is no exception. The key (in my humble opinion) to giving it that PC feel is to find the right ballistics curve. I've found one that works very well with every game I've played. If you want more details on it, send me a private message and I'll give you the code that you can paste right into the XIM app on your phone. Another tip to making your experience even better on the XIM is to set the Hz to 1000 in the XIM app, and also set your mouse to 12000 dpi. Again, if you want more information on how to do that, just send me a message. I take great joy in helping people maximize their experience with the XIM.

I'm 25 -- a programmer by day and a gamer by night. I developed really severe tendonitis 2 years ago. Imagine a line of fire from the top of your hands all to the way up your arms and over your shoulder...yeah, that was me. It started with pain on the top of my hands and crept up due to misunderstanding the causal mechanisms. Don't be me.

• Absolutely get an ergonomic gaming mouse. This is the one you want. I love it, it's my favorite mouse I've ever gamed with, and I've gone through quite a few, and the others weren't even ergonomic.
  
• For work, I like this mouse. It's not completely upright but it's in-between upright and horizontal. It also comes paired with a keyboard sometimes, which I also recommend.
  
• Start doing yoga. I know you're 18 and not feeling pain at the moment, and yoga is probably something you regard as kinda goofy and maybe a little feminine and overall not interesting to you, but trust me, it's the fucking bomb. I used to go to a chiropractor for my pain and one day we were talking and she mentioned that if everybody did yoga she wouldn't have a job...so I started doing yoga the next week and now I don't need a chiropractor anymore. Yep. It has the added bonus of making you feel amazing afterwards, too.
  
• Get your monitor up higher. If you have a 27", aim for your eyes at 1/3 of the way down from the top. With a 24" it's ok to be closer to the top of the monitor.
  
• You probably don't have money yet, but when you eventually do get money, invest in this. This is just the base -- you can buy your own tabletop and put it on top so it doesn't feel like you have a geeky sit/stand desk at home. While it's true you can get away with sitting in its entirety if you take long frequent breaks and reset your spine and hips, I found that just having the option to stand was a more efficient way to solve the problem, just in terms of time spent at computer. For work, you can swap it up on an as-needed basis. For gaming, you can do things like sit during your 45 minute LoL game (or whatever you play) and pop it up to standing between games or while in queue. This also encourages you to walk around your room, etc.
  
• So far I've mostly thrown solutions at you, and solutions are good, but what's even better is understanding the problem. Nobody has the same body as you, and nobody lives in it as much as you. Consult doctors/specialists to build your knowledge base, but understand they won't solve your problems for you. Think of the body as a physical system like any other and reason about it. Realize that everything is connected, and that when one part of the body hurts, it's probably because another part of the body isn't doing its job, or that you're setting that part of the body up to fail by not giving it everything it needs to succeed. One pretty common problem (and my problem) is that your shoulders and head will pull forward over time, and this causes curvature in the thoracic spine which compresses nerves that go down your arms, causing pain in the hands. That's just one example of how weird and interconnected this stuff is. I was stupid and didn't know this, so I kept trying to ice my hands or do other things to them, when the pain started appearing there. Don't be me, look at the big picture.
  
• Last thing. Stretches can be useful too, and these are the kinds of things you can actually start doing pre-injury. There are two stretches I find useful. First, this stuff from Day 9 is good for opening your forearms. This doesn't get at posture, but it's good for gaming. For posture, you want this. In particular the hands up the wall stretch where you contract and pull your elbows down to level is the money stretch, though the others are definitely useful, too.
  
  Feel free to DM me if you have questions. Love to help

Wow is not easy on your left (keyboard) wrist. If you are prone to having wrist pain, I'd recommend looking into getting either a Razor Orbweaver or a forget what the budget Orbweaver is called, or trying to find a Logitech G13. These are so much more wrist and MMO friendly, its insane.

What I'm using is an Azeron keypad, which is similar, just that its not a "big name brand", but rather a dude and his wife working on these with a 3D printer. I used to play League of Legends with an Orbweaver, but after 2 Orbweavers dying on me after about 1,5 years of gaming, I decided to explore a bit. The price range was the same, might as well go and give some money for the "little guy", and try out something new. I really like it, but the build quality is just not there. Its looks 3D printed, and most parts do feel very not... solid. But the layout is REALLY fucking good, its the best thing I have ever used in my life.

I basically use the joystick with my thumb as WASD, and the skills are programmed on the 12 keys you can reach very easily with your other 4 fingers. I have a Roccant Kone Aimo, so I set one of the buttons to shift, so with that modifier I can basically "instapress" 24 skills, and still move around like its nothing. If I had to play wow with a regular keyboard, I would quit on spot for sure. I... how the fuck would I have that much keybinds... Prob no way. The Azeron is not available for sale atm, I think there will be a preorder or something around september, bc they are going to "upgrade" from being a garage company to having employes and stuff. I'm really happy for them, and I truly hope they will make it big, cause this shit is amazing, and I want one that has sturdier build quality. I'm ordering another one in sept for sure, just so I'd have a backup :D

• You barely list Kodi because of 3rd party pirate addons, despite it having most of of your requests for Roku already implemented. DTS-passthru, Passworded tv and addons and able to program remotes. The library is extremely robust and can handle searching your media in a bunch of different ways including by network. The Bluetooth headphones is reliant on you STB but kodi can deal with it. As a bonus with the yatse app you can cast youtube and other online services to the Kodi install as long as there is a Kodi addon for that service.
  
  
• Complaining about the Firestick you knew it was WiFi at time of purchase so you can't knock it for that. Also it sounds like you have some networking gear issues if it is truly 3ft away.
  
  
• You can build a HTPC and a few tools on the back end to get your all in one DVR box(https://tvheadend.org/).
  
  
• You can build a HTPC or buy something like the Wetek play for OTA and DVR
  
  
• Volume control is trickier but if you get a CEC enabled HTPC or Set top box you can just use your TV remote. The simpler choice would be just turn the TV all the way up and use the STB remote for volume. There are other Devices like flirc or Harmony remotes that can also solve this.
  
  
• CEC can handle turning the TV on and off. Harmony remotes can also handle this easily.
  
  
• Kodi again can solve your file type problems(http://kodi.wiki/view/Features_and_supported_formats).
  
  
• KODI, Just because 3rd parties have enabled streaming pirated content shouldn't be held against a solid Home Theater software.
  
  
• Keyboards Logitech makes the K400 usb keyboard that will work with HTPCs and some STBs. Also voice search on the Shield TV is pretty solid.
  
  
• Wifi based remotes are nice, if you like them just find a STB that supports them.
  
  In short a solidly built HTPC can fix almost all of your gripes. Also you should really look at kodi again.
  
  >Ok, so you mention my lack of paragraph and sentence structure (although I am hesitant to admit that you are very right) and also not mentioning a universal remote (which I don't want to buy [I wanna say the cheapest harmony is around 80$], rather I want a all in one solution) what are areas you find me to be confused or ill informed?
  
  There are plenty of perfectly capable remotes for much less the $80.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/LYNEC-Wireless-Keyboard-Infrared-Learning/dp/B00U78EKM4/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459302520&sr=1-3&keywords=HTPC+remote
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459302520&sr=1-6&keywords=HTPC+remote
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459302520&sr=1-2&keywords=HTPC+remote
  

Oh hey, something I know a lot about. It is likely a form of RSI (Repetitive Strain Injury), the most well known of which is Carpal Tunnel Syndrome. If you have just started hurting recently, it's probably just and early stage RSI. These are really common in people with data-entry jobs, people who actively use a computer all day, and PC gamers. A lot of time they are ignored and get worse, so I'm glad you're getting it looked at.

I have a genetic connective tissue disorder that effects everything, and seriously impacts my wrist when playing. You should certainly see a doctor, but here are some other things you can do as well:

• First, you need to make sure your keyboard and mouse are at the right height. There are a lot of sites that offer a "magic number", but it really depends on height and your situation. Having your desk at the wrong height can put added strain on your wrists as they bend to reach the keyboard and mouse.
  
  
• Get yourself a programmable keyboard, like one by Razer. I know they're expensive, but it's more reliable than something like AutoHotKey (which is still an option if you're flat broke). These are nice because you can program common tasks like 'Ctrl+V' to a single keypress, rather than having to stretch out across the board, pulling those tendons tight. The nicer ones will have dedicated macro buttons, so you can reduce your keystrokes even in-game by assigning frequent combos to one of those keys.
  
  
• Make sure sure you are using a quality wrist/palm rest for your keyboard, and use it every time. The slight bend that your hand makes when you aren't using one causes damage that accumulates over time.
  
  
• The worst for us is the mouse, though. Several years ago, because all my joints are impacted and moving the mouse screwed up my shoulder, I moved to a trackball. It is absolutely an adjustment to use, but so long as you aren't a competitive player (progression, or Overwatch leagues) you shouldn't notice any dip in your play. I use this one, and I believe it is the best. It slightly rotates your wrist to relieve the pressure on the long tendons, and the ball prevents you from having to "flick" your wrist -- an isolated motion that can cause real damage.
  
  
• An alternative for the trackball, if you are competitive, or just can't get used to the trackball, would be a mouse like this one. I have one, and it's decent quality. I don't expect it to last nearly as long as my trackball, and the movement is also something you have to get used to just the same, but it is a cheap way to try out the vertical ("handshake") mouse that is often reccommended to relieve pain caused by Repetitive Strain Injuries.
  
  
• You may need to reduce your gaming for a couple weeks. The early stages are often jsut because of tendon inflammation, so resting can often alleviate it for a lot of people. Then just be more careful (do the above) when you come back.
  
  
• Someone here mentioned wrist exercises. They're a good idea, but they can limit healing if your wrist is already damaged. Ask your doctor about them. S/he may give you a few specific ones to do now until your wrist is strong enough to handle the full list in a few weeks.
  
  
• Finally: These apply to work as well as to home. The good news is that most workplaces have "ergonomics" policies in place now, because RSI is so common and in the worst cases qualifies employees for Worker's Comp. Their ergonomics program should help you get the right height desk, chair, and keyboard combo. When you do go to the doctor, though, if s/he mentions RSI or Carpal Tunnel, mention that you're going to need something to take back to work so that you can get the right accommodations. If HR tries to stonewall you, use the word "accommodations" and with your DX in hand they pretty much have to help out.
  
  So yeah, good luck! Hopefully it's just an early-stage RSI that some time off and care will resolve, but once you've started the process it generally doesn't go backwards. Like everything else in our bodies, once you've injured those tendons they become more prone to re-injury and you'll have to keep an eye on them from here forward. Luckily, once you get the above set up, you don't have to actively do anything; just make sure you're in the right work space!
  
  tl;dr: I have an ungodly amount of experience with tendon/ligament injuries. Trust me, you really should go and read all of that to prevent a lot of pain. Above all, if your gaming makes your hands/wrists/forearms hurt, see a doctor.

Skip fake coin door with buttons, just do a real coin door at that point. Easy to wire one up to an ipac or similar depending on what you are doing for an encoder. If you don't want to do the real coin door, you can also just put a yellow button next to each players start button for coin.

Pause, reset, and menu shouldn't have there own buttons. They can be done with shift keys and would be much cleaner looking. For example, holding 1 player start and pressing player 2 start can exit a game. Then you can have holding player 1 start and pulling down on the stick can pause. Reset is so rarely needed that you wouldn't want a button for it, but it is easy enough to add a shift key for it if you would like.

I've played a lot of video pinball, and I do enjoy it for the most part. I have been spoiled by playing it on setups designed exclusively for it however. Virtual pinball really needs to played on a big vertically oriented screen to get the right effect. Any real pinball machine completely outclasses virtual so just be aware that those are easy enough to find. With those things in mind I would say skip the pinball stuff for now.

How you want to do your sound setup will best determine how to deal with volume. Some folk use an amp and home theater rear speakers, or car audio speakers. If you were to go that route I would say just hide the actual knob somewhere that is easy to access. Maybe up near the power switch that you would want to mount near the top right side of the machine, above and behind the marquee. Some decent 2.1 pc speakers come with a volume knob that could easily be mounted in that spot as well. If you are determined to do it in software, you can use shift keys as mentioned earlier.

Here is the controversial opinion: Don't bother 6 buttons per player. I find that while many of those 6 button fighting games are great, they just don't get played enough to warrant all of those buttons. If you need to scratch that fighting game itch you can go with something Neo Geo, like Last Blade 2, Samurai Showdown 2, or Garou. All of which are amazing games by the way.

I would also say don't bother with a keyboard and mouse tray. Just adds another level on complexity that isn't needed. Just use a wireless mouse keyboard combo and throw it on top of the cab when you aren't using it. I personally use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9996LA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TL;DR Less is more

I, personally, would go with the G400. it's the upgraded and current version of the MX 518 which is still regarded as a great mouse even despite its age. I personally use a G5 which is getting a little old but still works great after all these years. If you want a great gaming mouse that will last you many years of constant use then go with the G400. Also, I know it's out of your price range, but the G500 would be the next step up.

EDIT: I must also point out that I am partial to these mice that I have listed because I really like the way they feel in my hand because of their shape and size. You need to think about the way that you grip your mouse and what you think will feel best in your hand. If you can, try to go to a store that has at least some of them in stock to feel them yourself. With that in mind, a very large number of people regard these mice as great and comfortable mice to use as you can see from the positive reviews.

Looking for my first mechanical.

• Uses: Typing/coding, gaming (Already have a Logitech G13 that I use for some games though)
  
  
• Full-size (I use the number pad in some of my graphic design apps and like to have it available, I think, but maybe I could adjust if I didn't have it if it really is better. I also use the arrow keys to nudge things around in graphic apps)
  
  
• Wired (Don't like having to charge things)
  
  
• Brown (I got the WASD Tester and I like the bump of browns without the click. The clicky ones are too loud for my taste)
  
  
• No brand loyalty or preference
  
  
• Budget: Under $200 would be nice, but I could justify more if necessary
  
  
• USA
  
  
• Definitely want it to be backlit, but not necessarily fully programmable with full RGB and disco features
  
  
• Current keyboard: Logitech G15 The screen is a gimmick and I never use it or any of the other media keys, macros, or layout switcher
  
  
• Would like the option to customize with cool keycaps as some of the best keyboards seen here.
  
  I always liked typing on Mac laptop keyboards, the low profile made me feel like I could type a lot faster and more accurately and with less fatigue. I've been following the Tesoro Gram XS for a long time as I thought that might be a good compromise between a Mac keyboard and a mechanical, but the reviews seem pretty mixed so I'm afraid to jump in on that one.
  
  I've read through a bunch of the wiki pages, but was hoping you guys could help narrow down my search a little based on the above criteria.
  
  Thanks!

There's a lot out there, and it can be tough figuring out where to begin even with the wiki. In my opinion, figuring out your needs and budget are the two most important things you can do when you're first jumping in.

• Needs -
  
  Ask yourself what you'll mainly be using your board for; are you a gamer that spends most of their time playing FPS, or do mainly use your board for work / school related activities? A little bit of both? Does your board need to be pack and go, or will it mainly be stationary at a pc? Do you want to build yourself or do you want a prebuilt that just works? Once you have a few basic requirements in mind, you can use those as a guideline to start to piecing together what you need for your situation. For example, I game a tiny bit but not enough to justify building a board around it. I do however spend quite a bit of time on my board for work and I travel quite often, so I wanted something portable that was ideal for hours of typing, and it had to have a navigation cluster. From there, I decided on a 65% board with tactile switches.
  
  
  
• Budget -
  
  It's easy to go down the rabbit hole and spend elevendy billion dollars on a custom board with all the bells and whistles, then come to find out out you don't like the layout, switch type, cap profile etc. There are MANY different price points out there; I can almost assure you that you can find something up your alley without breaking the bank. My first board that I mentioned above was a [Magic Force 68] (https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510046923&sr=8-3&keywords=magicforce+68+brown) that I got on sale for $30, and I still love that little thing. Since then I've built 3 custom boards and a macro pad, and I've got a few more builds in the works too, but I did it all bit by bit.
  
  After you figure out what your needs are and your budget, i suggest checking out switch types and figuring out what you think you'll like. If you're unsure, you can always grab a [switch tester] (https://www.novelkeys.xyz/product-category/switchtesters/) to help you narrow it down. and if you go the DIY route, [spacecat design] (http://shop.spacecat.design/) has a lot of great tools to get you started.
  
  I hope you find this helpful; this is really only scratching the surface. Don't be intimidated with all of the info; the more you hang around (kudos to you for jumping in after a week, I lurked for months before I asked any questions) the more you'll learn. It all starts to come together over time, so stick with it and don't be afraid to ask questions. Someone will point you in the right direction more often than not.
  
  If for some reason you do find yourself hanging though, feel free to message me and I'll be glad to help you out. :)

I'm mainly echoing some things that other people have said but here's my two cents,

Can you use your thumb very well? You could consider investing in an MMO mouse like someone else suggested.

Also, if you have at least some use of your left hand to hit keys, like say, for example, you can hit 1, 2, and 3, but not 4, 5, and 6, you can consider getting one of those gaming foot pedals, and use the pedal as modifier keys so you can do say, like, 1 as a key by itself, left side of the pedal and 1, right side of the pedal and 1, and so on.

Another option which again, depends on your hands, is one of those ergonomic gamepads. You might find it easier to use one of these because of how the keys are spaced and curved inward than a traditional keyboard.

Again, I don't know your exact situation, but those are some recommendations as far as some hardware goes, which take varying degrees of monetary investment (but can be translated to other games, too!)

As far as your initial question involving Voiceattack, I don't know how Jagex's bot detection software works (obviously) but the general rule they put out is one input = 1 output, so if the program only does 1 thing per thing you tell it to do, like for example, if you tell it to use your 1 key, and it only presses that key once, then you should be good to go. However if it's set to hit 1, 2, and 3 in order when you only give it one command, then that's a no-go. But I personally would try to reach out to Jagex and get some sort of feedback from them first. That way if you somehow get banned or something, you're already out ahead of it and would probably have no issues getting your account back. Hypothetically speaking, though I'd think that this hypothetical is pretty out there anyway as long as the program is used within the one input = 1 output rule.

^ Also don't take my word to be gospel on this, I strongly strongly recommend getting official word from a Jagex rep before trying anything with any sort of program like that if you value your account

Good luck, and I wish you the best in your gaming endeavors

Currently running ICS on my A500, really loving it. It'd be nice if there were a keyboard dock like the W500. The dock connector is a complete and utter waste without something like that. No idea what Acer was thinking. I got a case which can stand up the tablet and a wireless keyboard/touchpad, and it works, but it doesn't even come close to the convenience of a Transformer-like dock/charger.

Other than that, I'm enjoying my Iconia. I got it from a Woot sale at the end of January (IIRC) for $300. I do wish I had just waited and gotten a premium tablet, but you get what you pay for, and I'm very satisfied with what I've got, especially considering how little I paid.

I came from an iPad 2 to an A500. I love having an easily accessible dev community, and I love being able to actually do stuff with my tablet. Even jailbroken, the iPad was unbearably locked down. I couldn't stand it. The main downside would be the loss of the App Store's abundance of tablet apps, but that's a problem all Android tablets have and I'm sure a problem which will be remedied as tablets and Android tablets in particular become more popular.

The OS itself is just gorgeous. iOS looks fine on phones, but it just doesn't fit on a tablet... you're missing out on so much functionality without widgets and the like. Even Honeycomb looks a ton better than iOS, and ICS simply blows it out of the water. Here's my desktop right now. Everything's so smooth and well designed, as it should be. iOS, on the other hand... it feels "chunky" or childish on a tablet. It doesn't work well in my opinion.

So that's my whole opinion. The tablet itself is great for the price. There aren't any glaring flaws (well, the GPS thing can be problematic, but that's patchable.) Android itself is a great OS, albeit one with a lacking selection of tablet apps. That selection is growing, though. I love my Iconia and, right now, there's really no reason to upgrade to anything different.

I love board games!

If you want a simple game instead of the regular 2 hr trek of Arkham or Catan, you could get Zombie Dice. It's silly, but entertaining. It's a little like Blackjack and yahtzee mixed together. If you don't have Pandemic, you need it. It's so much fun and it's different because you work together instead of against the other players. You can play with two people also. Ticket to ride is another fun one, don't be deceived into thinking it's lame from the art/cover. It's award winning.

As far as senitmental ones, you can steal this idea from me =): I bought a deck of cards and wrote 52 different reasons I love my boyfriend on each card. He really appreciated the time and thought into picking 52 different things. Plus the medium is interesting if you like games. I had things on there varying from "You always appreciate the effort I put into cooking, even when it's not the best result" to "You never make me feel embarrassed to be myself". Plus a couple more scandalous items ;).

If he's into PC games (and if he doesn't have one) he might enjoy a gameboard like this one or a gaming mouse. And, if we're getting sentimental again, make him a mousepad with a picture of you two.

I could keep going, but I have to go to work. I think your SO and mine are a lot alike as far as interests go, haha.

Definitely go with the mouse unless your keyboard is malfunctioning. Gaming keyboards are useful to have sometimes but not essential like a decent gaming mouse. Just make sure that the mouse you buy works well with how you play, the type of grip you use, palm or claw/fingertip.

In short, you either palm the mouse with your entire hand, moving your arm to move the mouse, or you "claw" it, grabbing it with your finger tips and moving it just with your wrist. Knowing which grip you prefer and getting a mouse that fits it well goes a long way to eliminate wrist pain and fatigue.

Personally, I claw grip and use the CM Storm Spawn. Best mouse I've ever used for my style of play due to its small size and design. (So good I bought a second one for my laptop.) It goes up to 3500 DPI but IMO the 1800 DPI preset is perfect for most all games. If I need more precision I take it down to the 800 DPI preset and if I need more look speed (i.e. BF3 vehicles) I go up to the 3500 DPI preset.

Other good options are the G500 and the Deathadder , both of which many people swear by. They're better for palm grip IMO though due to their size.

TL;DR Go with the mouse and pick one that fits your hand and style of play well.

I, like you, used to build computers about 10 years ago, right when I was getting out of high school and into college. I just recently built one again after being a mac/xbox user before, and it was like riding a bike again when it came to assembling it.

Some thoughts based on the computer I just built:

• My budget was a bit higher, which I sunk almost entirely into a GTX 670 FTW and 128 GB SSD. I considered getting rid of the SSD altogether to save some cash, because I thought it wouldn't make much of a difference. I was so wrong. It makes a huge difference. In fact, my next purchase is going to be a 256 GB SSD because I am running out of space on the first one.
  
  
• I bought a really nice Samsung 1080p monitor from my brother-in-law, but before that deal worked itself out I was looking at something like this from Acer, right in that $150 price range.
  
  
• I went with an Nvidia card because it was the latest and greatest, and 10 years ago I had trouble with a Radeon card (which has no bearing on the present, I know). I love my 670, but you're right about price:performance with Radeon.
  
  
• I have an i5 3570K which I am not currently overclocking. I threw a Hyper 212+ on it anyways to give myself the option. It's only $20 and will save a lot of time and hassle in the future if you do decide it's something you want to try.
  
  
• I put my computer in a NZXT Phantom 400 midtower. In retrospect, I wish I'd gone with something smaller. If your gut says small, go small. To go MicroATX look at this Mobo and this case.
  
  
• I have a super cheap $20 keyboard that works just fine, and a Logitech G500 mouse (which was a gift). The mouse is awesome, but is a bit overkill for my needs. Really think about what you need out of a mouse before you drop $50 on one. If I was spending my own money, I'd go with the ~$30 G300 or G400, or something even cheaper like this GigaByte. Just get one that fits your grip style.
  
  
• I have mine hooked up wirelessly right now until I can run cable... I borrowed a friend's Belkin USB stick wireless adapter... the thing's a champion. I was shocked. I will never recommend Belkin and am inclined to believe I am the exception and not the rule in this case, but a wireless USB stick may be something to look into.

I'm trying to find a list of all 82/84 key-keyboards on the market that I can actually buy new. I know there's a longer list of discontinued stuff.

As of now I know of the: 84 Keycool, Cherry G-84
, KBT RACE II, Drevo 84, Keycool hero 84, Noppoo Choc mini 84.

Looking for an 84 key with media buttons and a function key on the bottom row. I'd like MX cherry stems so I can change out the caps easily but know other caps are available. If I could program the media button locations and order keys to match. That'd be awesome.

I'm pretty happy with the OUTEMU brown switches on my 68 key magicforce so I'll probably go with brown switches.

If anyone wants to recommend me an 84 key board with media keys and some function keys like an calculator button and board number pad that'd be awesome I'm all ears. The Keycool Hero I already linked looks like a winner

In my experience the keyboard itself comes down purely to personal preference, i.e. the design, material, key caps, brand etc. That is also what makes up most of the price other than features like wireless.

The thing that is gonna make or break your keyboard are the switches.

If there is nowhere where you can go and try out the keyboards in person, the next best thing to do is buy a Cherry MX Switch Tester

I have tried Blue, Red, Brown and Romer-G switches personally, and if you want to go by my opinion, then definitely go for either Blue or Red depending on whether you like clicky buttons or smooth. People say that Blue are better for typing and Red are better for gaming. Personally, I find both great for either task, just depends on your preference, again.

Brown and Romer-G (the ones on Logitech Pro Keyboard), which are very similar, feel mushy to me, kind of like pressing on crumpled foil, which to me is unpleasant especially for daily use.

My experience with different switches:


Logitech Pro was the last keyboard that I bought, using a Filco Majestouch 2 with Blue switches before that which I used for like 5? or more years.

Eventually I wanted a new keyboard and since I am big into gaming I decided to buy it because of it's reported amazing performance. At first it wasn't so bad and I got used to it, but eventually there was an accident and the keyboard ended up basically done for (my fault, nothing to do with the quality of the keyboard itself).

Needing a keyboard fast, I borrowed one with Red switches from a friend of mine and holy shit the difference was like night and day, like going from 30 fps on console to 144 on PC. I decided to buy a Filco Majestouch 2 keyboard with Red switches for myself and now I get excited whenever I need to use it just like when I got my first one with Blue switches.

Red switches are my personal favorites right now.

(If you are highly considering going for Browns instead of Reds I would recommend somehow borrowing a keyboard with Brown switches and using it for a day, then switching to Red and seeing how it goes. I personally didn't notice that much of a difference when trying both switches briefly, which can end up making you regret your choice like me)
___

As for recommendations:

For gaming I would 100% recommend a Tenkeyless keyboard. The key layout is different on keyboards with smaller sizes, which means that your muscle memory will need to adjust. Personally, I would not be willing to go through that, but if that is not a big deal for you and you're sure that you won't need the missing keys (arrow keys can be useful for things like even basic text editing in notepad or scrolling through search options in Google), then I don't see an issue with going with a smaller size.

A wired keyboard that I would recommend is Filco Majestouch 2

If you need a wireless keyboard then I would recommend Corsair K63

Well then may i give you the following suggestions?

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Customizable/dp/B01IRASQA0

This AUKEY keyboard comes up as highly recommended for those looking into mechanical keyboards for the first time and want RGB, in terms of quality control AUKEY seems to be also widely praised.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-K555-Redragon-illuminated-Equivalent/dp/B0171BSNYK

This is the keyboard I have, Redragon is also a well praised low budget mechanical keyboard company.
For me this keyboard is perfect, had it for almost a year now and by golly is it full featured and quite good to boot.
Redragon is certainly a good company from my research and so far so very very good.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Illuminated-Industrial-backlighted-EagleTec/dp/B015MPQQ0A

This one here actually has many color variations, Eagletec is a sub brand of Redragon so same rules apply... overall a good brand

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823201110

Rosewill has unleashed their own RGB mech keyboard at a great price with this one.
I have heard many great things about this keyboard.

As for any responses saying that cherry is the best mechanical switch and off brands are bad.... nope not these days.

Actually many argue the chinese knockoff switches are better than Cherrys current offerings.

With NVIDIA GeForce Experience, a free piece of software that works for any GTX 500-700 series graphics card will configure almost all games for you with the push of a button. You can build a PC for around $560 that is 26.1 liters, or if you're really concerned about size $600, which will be 14 liters which is still about twice the size of the XBox One, but it's still very mobile. You can access Netflix, Hulu, Crunchyroll, sports livestreams, a PC access pretty much all of the media either console can, unless I'm missing something. Using a PC isn't as difficult as people say it is. As long as you don't accidentally download crappy toolbars that bog down your web browser it's pretty easy, and you can, like I said before use GeForce Experience to do all the work for you. There are just as many, if not more casual games on PC compared to console. you can play something that's somewhat casual like Titanfall, or you can play side-scrollers like Fez, and Starbound. You do need a keyboard and a pointing device, however you can get a standard keyboard, you could get something along the lines of this which is not smaller than most keyboards, but it's wireless, and has a built in trackpad. If you have tiny thumbs you could use this. You can even use a wireless 360 controller as a pointing device, and use a chat pad as the keyboard. With the advent of steam joining another player's game is just as easy as on a console. If I see one of my friends is playing Borderlands 2 I can launch it up, click on his name, click join game, and I'm in. No pre-configuration required, just a steam account.

> I'm a little disappointed to see the table top computers are mostly obsolete.

I guess I missed the memo

Vintage table top computers are just fine to play against for most of us mortals (if you're solidly above 2000, it's a little tougher), and you can get some for very cheap and in good condition on eBay. The Kaplan machines are a great option (SciSys turbo 16k plays at around 1450 elo, GK2000 (my personal nemesis) plays at around 1900 elo, GK2100 plays at around 2050 elo) and are very common.

There is one "new" table top computer on the market - Millenium Chess Genius/Pro. The Pro version is reaching 2300 elo in some tests. And the engine that powers it is the same Chess genius codebase that your phone app uses. Build quality is not as good as my favorite GK 2000, but at least someone is still making these.

> My plan is to mirror most of the me vs computer games over a real board. Is that how a lot of you do it?

Yes I do this, and I do this in games vs human players online (providing the time control is long enough to do this) as well.

> Not sure if something like hiarcs is worth it over lucus?

If you buy hiarcs I would recommend getting it with the Fritz interface.

When playing VS software engine, what I do is use a mini wireless keyboard (this), disable the board in my GUI, enlarge the score sheet and change the font such that it can be read at a long distance. Then I take the mini keyboard, input the moves in algebraic notation with it, and glance at the screen to see the engine reply. This minimizes computer distraction, being glued to the screen, and re-creates the feeling of taking notation in a tournament game as much as possible. Fritz GUI will also read it's moves aloud to you in speech, but I did not find that useful. I wanted to code something to use voice recognition API so that I could speak my moves, but didn't do it yet.

> Chess genius and shredder seem to be the best phone apps I've found so far.

For playing against, yes. For analysis, some stockfish variant is the way to go.


> However I'm hesitant to buy shredder as it appears to be abandoned. I like the ability to adjust the computer player by elo rating.

Shredder (along with HIARCS) is the most humanlike engine on the market and it's elo restriction is top notch. It's well worth the small price for the mobile version, but I'd consider the PC version too. I own both and use both, myself.

I don't think it is abandoned, but if it were, I wouldn't really fret too much -- it's pretty much perfect as it is.

Hey, sorry for the late reply,
first and formost, you can add a separate cooling system if you like, it'll add a bit more to your cost and it's not necessary imo, but it would make the build more silent prob.
Then, I forgot to add a keyboard! a good option would be something like this if you like brown switches

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m9ehAb4VV8KZY

or something like this if you like red switches

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-STRAFE-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00ZUPOMDQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511838019&sr=1-3&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+red+switch

Lastly, if you want a good cheap monitor then this is a cheap good reliable option

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BRvZxr/benq-monitor-9hle5lbqpa

my only issue with it is that it is a lot smaller than the omen I recommended, so you might want to chose something a bit more on the expensive side that is also good like this

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PmyFf7/acer-monitor-umfg6aab01

or this

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FZJkcf/acer-xf240h-240-144hz-monitor-umfx0aa001

hope this helps! good luck on your build!

No problem at all! I have only managed to get my pi mildly warm, but I bet if you were doing something more CPU intensive (i.e. video) that the little chip could warm up pretty good. The pi has pins on it for sending signals and receiving inputs to and from electrical components. The ultimate kit comes with a cable and an adapter to plug into a breadboard that gives you easier access to those inputs and outputs. It's really nice to just play with stuff and not have to worry about soldering. The wires that come with the kit have special ends on them to pop right into the breadboard nicely. The resisters are needed to make use of the LEDs. If you hook up an LED directly the the 3.3V power, it will burn out. I'm speaking from experience as my kit is now 1 LED short. My first project was I can turn an LED light on and off through a webpage. I'd be happy to share my code for that.
To assemble the kit no soldering is required at all. Peel and stick the heat sink on the chip, snap the case together, and plug the wifi into a USB port. I have a cheap logitec wireless keyboard/trackpad combo unit with a usb adapter and that worked right off. I'm sure bluetooth would be the same.
If you're going to experiment with different projects, its nice to have multiple sd cards. Keep the 8gb card that comes with it for messing around, get a bigger card and put retropie on it for gaming.

Here's what I do...I play on PC...don't play on console at all, but, if you're open to trying and have the $$$ to spare, I really, really love this.

I use a gamepad. I've used the Logitech G13 though I now use the Razer Orbweaver. Both work. With this, I set up movement to the thumb stick/pad...you can only move in one direction at a time, so if you only have to use one finger (thumb) to move, it's more efficient, right? I then assign the keypad buttons to abilities, ability leveling, and relic use (among other things...I assign keys based on where the left hand would sit on a traditional keyboard to make VGS functions easier).

Means I can move while using abilities...never understood why people would just settle for using # keys for abilities, which means you can't move in some directions at the same time.

As for the mouse, any should be fine, but since the keypad is limited in # of buttons, I currently use a Razer Naga Epic. I use left and right scroll wheel clicks for my consumables, and the thumb buttons as right-side keyboard buttons. Of course, you can program however you'd like.

This setup is also awesome for FPS and other games. It definitely takes a while to get used to it, but now it's second nature to me, and totally worth it.

> What do you use to game from your couch? Gamepad, keyboard/mouse combo?

An i5-4440, GTX960 2GB, 8GB DDR3 and a 3TB HDD. Used to have SteamOS on it, but replaced the base OS partition with Ubuntu 16.04 after a while and it definitely worth it.

Every game released for Linux is playable more than decently.

> Gamepad, keyboard/mouse combo?

2 Steam Controllers, 2 DS4 controllers and a DS3 (working natively through bluetooth) always at hand. Also, this little guy if I ever need a physical KB&M.

> What about your general computing tasks from the couch? Web browsing, Netflix, etc?

It's just a regular PC, so browsing and streaming are both done through Chrome.

Same with emulators (PCSX2, Dolphin, PPSSPP, etc.) and Wine games that require a controller are usable through xinput activator button in the controller for easy access to a Controller layout (here's an example of how it works).

So basically, this machine has replaced all of my consoles (PS3/4, WiiU) almost completely, so Steam in BP is the most used application on it, but on the proper desktop the SC as trackball mouse and its on-screen keyboard is the prefered input method.

Also, it also can be used and operated remotely through ssh so it can be left turned on and act as a server of sorts if required (for internal streaming, torrents, file sharing, etc), and Steam streaming work flawlessly both as host (can easily stream games from my desktop) or client (a roommate used this machine to play DOTA2 on his shitty laptop without issues).

Oh, and since last week, Rocket League with friends is awesome from the couch! Without even mentioning the quantity of other good couch games (like Towerfall, Assault Android Cactus, Trine, etc) available for linux ussually works mixing and matching any controller.

Hope this helps in your set up.. Enjoy your new console-killer!

Some suggestions for keyboard/mice:

Lenovo N5902. Goes on sale regularly.

Logitech K400

Generic keyboard/touchpad remote. There are many slight variants on this.

I've found that due to the size/shape/content of my living room, a wireless receiver plugged into my HTPC doesn't work 100% reliably. I've connected a USB extension cable to the back of my HTPC and run it behind things and under my couch to give me the best reception. Generally you can go up to 15 feet; any longer than that and you need a powered extension.

If you have a Logitech Harmony remote, I highly recommend the OVU4003/00 (RC6) USB IR reciever. Once set up with Windows and the Harmony remote, it works with XBMC/Kodi out of the box. This receiver was branded as HP/Dell/Gateway/Philips and probably many more. A Flirc is another option but it is ugly (IMO) and more expensive.

Regarding hardware, if you aren't gaming you don't need a lot. When using older gear the most important thing is video hardware acceleration. For Intel machines, you need something with at least GMA 4500 (Q45 chipset) graphics or later, and for AMD you need something with at least a 760G chipset. This hardware dates back to 2008/2009. Dedicated graphics cards should be at least a Radeon HD 2600 or a GeForce 8500. These cards date back to 2006/2007. CPUs are a grey area, but any mainstream dual core CPU (Athlon X2, Core 2 Duo) from 2007+ should be able to handle most everything. My first HTPC had an AMD Athlon X2 5000+ and it's still working just fine with W7 and Kodi.

If you want to game (and don't want to use a device like the DOKO), you'll need to find a quiet case that supports full length video cards. There are a bunch available, and I'm not sure if this has changed in the last 2-3 years, but the vast majority of HTPC cases large enough to support full size gear and M-ATX motherboards are simply too long to fit in a standard A/V rack or TV stand. The only exceptions I am aware of are the Silverstone GD05 and GD04. I'd be willing to bet that Silverstone has some other cases that will work also.

Additionally, you'll want to find a PSU, case fans and CPU cooler that are quiet and efficient. The best resource for this is http://www.silentpcreview.com/.

Lastly, if your A/V receiver has only S/PDIF audio inputs (no HDMI) and you want to play games in 5.1 surround sound, you're going to need to find either a sound card or motherboard with an S/PDIF output that supports DTS-Connect and/or Dolby Digital Live. Motherboards stopped coming with this around 2008 (AFAIK) and the cheapest option to get it in an add-on card is the Sound Blaster Z.

Why not just pair your G502 with the G13 Programmable Gameboard?

I've actually paired the G13 with my G600, so I have access to a ton of buttons, but you could easily just pair the G13 with your G502, and still play MMOs. I played WoW, The Secret World, Everquest, Guild Wars 2, FF14, etc. Since I played a healer type, I needed a crapton of buttons.

The G13 is like a mini keyboard, but for your left hand. I love the thing. The directional pad, and the analog switch adds a lot of additional flexibility, on top of the keypads. It was way more useful than my Logitech programmable keyboard, which is really too huge.

edit: typos.

Excellent build. I have nearly identical requirements to you and my rig is very similar to yours.

The processor I used was the A8-3870k (it was cheaper for me than the 3850 in Canada) and I went with a micro ATX setup because the case of my choice was mATX.

You will have no problems with that processor. It's simply a monster. Plays and processes flawlessly. XBMC runs perfect. I've got my OS and programs on a 120GB SSD so everything is snappy!

1. For the SSD mounting, you can pick up adapters for less than $10 that let you mount them into standard 3.5" bays. However, someone above mentioned using velcro which is a simple alternative and should work fine.
   
   
2. Wifi cards are a dime a dozen nowadays so you'll probably have to get a standard card. Just get one that's wireless n compatible with a solid speed (you can get a wireless n 300 Mbps card for about $30). Your router may not even be that fast so you can adjust accordingly.
   
   
3. I know you said you didn't want a keyboard/mouse but this one is really good I swear: [Logitech K400] (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-920-003070/dp/B005DKZTMG). It looks nice and is very useful. You'll need a keyboard whenever you need to tweak things or use the web browser so this thing is great.
   
   I have the K400 and also a cheap [MCE remote] (http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Microsoft-Center-Control-Receiver/sim/B006TPPVKE/2) which is great for non-tech savvy people in my house.
   
   
   Overall I think you'll be very pleased with that build. Have fun!

Hello!
My budget is around 60 euros. I don't mind how big it is. TKL is fine, even 65% or 60% is fine. Don't really want/need full size.
I've taken a look at a lot of keyboards. It's hard to fine good ones, but this is what i've found. I must note 3 things: 1. My parents are involved in the decision. 2. I like all switches exept MX reds. 3. I live in europe but can order in USA (my father works in the US, he can bring it home)

This list is ordered in most intersted to least interested.

1. Anne Pro 60% keyboard with RGB lights and Gateron switches 65 euros shipped to Belgium. Would go for Gateron Blue switches. Only reason I haven't ordered is, is because my parents don't really want to order from Banggood (Chines website)
   
2. Magicforce 68 30-60 euros. Good deal, but I don't like the white keyboad, and the black keyboards are very rare.
   
3. Drevo Gramr 84-keyboard 40 euros, backlight. Seems like a good deal.
   
4. Ajazz RGB keyboard Looks like a good deal for 56 euros. RGB lights, apparantly very nice (the lights)
   
5. Drevo Calibur RGB For 50 USD, looks alright
   
6. E-element keyboard again, a cheap RGB keyboard. Find it weird that RGB is an option at my price point.
   These are some I think are nice.
   I also had my eye on a 40 USD reddragon keyboard.
   
   So, I know everyone's probably gonna be like: Go for the Anne Pro. And trust me, I would want to. But my parents don't like ordering from unknown websites, defintly as it ships for China.
   Any other suggestions?

Ok, I'll give it a go since no one seems to have given you a decent answer.

TL;DR - Your Macbook keyboard is probably one of the quieter keyboards types out there already. There are other options, but you should probably see if you can find them in person before shelling out over a hundred dollars on something that may not work for you.


Your Macbook uses what's called a scissor switch. Basically two pieces of plastic with a small metal wire acting as a spring, laying over a rubber dome. When depressed, the contact under the dome completes the circuit and your keyboard registers the keystroke.

Quite frankly, scissor switches (also known as "chiclet keyboards") are some of the more quieter options out there.

What you're probably experiencing is called 'bottoming out' - basically it's not really the switches making the noise, it's you smashing the keys so hard that it's the thud sound of the key going as far down as it can, and hitting what's underneath (more or less).

You've got a couple of options here...

There are a few cheap, rubber dome keyboards (ie: the generic full-sized keyboards you usually see packaged with new computers) which market themselves as 'quiet keyboards'. The Logitech K120 is a good example of this. Most of these "quiet" boards go with the theory that the shorter space between pressing and activating the switch means less downforce, making less of a thud if you bottom out.

If you want to spend money and are looking towards mechanical keyboards, the Toper Realforce is generally considered one of the quietest (Topre's not really a mechanical switch, but that's nitpicking). There are also mods you can do to the keyboard to make them even quieter.

The other option being that you can go the Cherry MX switch route and pick a switch which requires a lot of downforce to activate. I'd suggest something like a Light or Dark Grey (depending on if you want or don't want a 'bump' feeling - neither click). You can also mod Cherry switches by adding rubber o-rings to help soften the sound of bottoming out (as well as the mod listed above in the Topre area). For more information about Cherry switches, see here. I will say that the heavy keys can get pretty intense. I have a MX Green board that I love for gaming (because I don't accidentally click keys I don't mean to), but it's not comfortable for long periods of typing - but I'm not a super heavy-handed typer either.

I'd suggest hitting up a computer store - a Best Buy or Microcenter or Fry's. All of these stores should have some good in store options to play around with as far as rubber dome, chiclet, and mechanical keyboards go. If you want to play around with a Topre, you're probably going to have a much harder time tracking one down unless you live in a big metropolitan area with a few specialty stores.

You can also find various switch testers on sites like Massdrop. They bundle a bunch of (generally Cherry) switches on a single mounted board so you can see how they feel. They don't make the best typing analog though.

So a lot of what you got is right but most some of it for the wrong reasons. Namely the picture that is on my wall I bought from a garage sale for a dollar. The echo was my sole HS graduation present, so well off; yes, rich; no.(I like using semicolons, despite not knowing how to use semicolons;) The board is not custom built, its a reddragon k552 Kumara, the wristrest is a cedar plank from a house I was working on over the summer. It is the perfect size and everything. I am working on a split board (on top of my left speaker.) and just threw the blank keycaps from that on Dvorak user so qwerty is absolutely pointless. Interested in mechatronics or eletrical engineering yes.

Member of /r/G502MasterRace , /r/thinkpad (my newest obsession) and /r/MechanicalKeyboards and 18 years old.

US yes, and world traveller yes, the coins are helped by the fact that my dad travels for work and is now at like 54 countries or some stupid number like that. I'm 'only' at like 19 countries, only...

There are still a few tidbits that everybody so far have missed.

Edit most to some

Edit 2 I have not just good taste in mice. I have great taste in mice. G502 at home, M570 on the go.

I'll be playing with:

• Razer DeathAdder
  
• CM Storm Trigger
  
• Audio Technica AD700 - Possibly. Haven't decided for sure yet.
  
  Also have a 3D monitor and glasses if I feel inclined to play GW2 in 3D, though after having tried it during recent stress tests, I'm not sure I will.
  
  ___
  
  On the subject of peripherals, if anyone is browsing through these posts trying to get ideas on future purchases:
  
  Razer products: Use caution and make informed decisions before buying them. With Razer, most of the time you're paying for the brand name more than anything. Their quality control is known to be really shoddy compared to other brands. Their mice and the Nostromo are typically good (though even then, my first DeathAdder mouse was faulty and had to be RMA'd), but everything else is average at best, faulty and unreliable at worst. I was looking into buying a Blackwidow in my mechanical keyboard search this month, but decided against it in the end because there were simply far too many reports of faulty, flimsy, or otherwise broken parts (both out of the box or down the line) for me to buy with confidence. Bottom line, do your research on the likes of Google, Amazon and Newegg reviews, etc. before making a purchase. Not even just with Razer products, but anything you ever plan on investing significant money into.
  
  Mechanical keyboards: They're a really great investment if you're in the market for a keyboard and can fit them in the budget. They're a lot more pricey, but you really get what you pay for with these. Mechanical keys are an absolute pleasure to type and game on compared to the cheap membrane keys which are standard today. These keyboards provide great tactility, feedback, accuracy, and are made to last far, far longer than your standard keyboard.
  
  Audio Peripherals: First of all, do not buy gaming headsets. Once again, you're paying a lot more for the brand and the title of "gaming headset" than the actual product quality. Frankly, most (if not all) gaming headsets' quality and audio fidelity are downright poor in comparison to dedicated headphones that you can get for the same or lesser price. The best thing to do if you want to get the most bang for your buck is to buy a nice pair of headphones, and if you're dead-set on having an attached mic, invest into something like the ModMic or mod one on yourself.

Have you tried a ball mouse? Your hand position is still flat, but the reduction of movement is wonderful if you don't need extremely high precision. And you could probably be fine with that once you got used to it. I have the exact same Anker mouse and it's hit or miss with me. I also have a G9 and a m570. I can't say which i prefer the most in terms of comfort because somehow luckily i don't have much pain unless I'm using a Magic Mouse. I will say they're all good in their own ways. If you've used a ball mouse before it is it's own experience entirely, but i really recommend it if it's within your budget as Amazon has a great return policy if you order from there. I just order an MX Master so I'll be trying out that one next. And if it comes down to it, i have an unopened g602 i forgot to return i can sell if you want something like that.

Suggestions when all I care about is 6KRO?

I don't dislike Rubber Domes, but losing key inputs from ghosting is awful. I've had a chance to try Cherry Blues and Cherry Blacks - Blacks I liked less than Rubber Dome; Blues were about equal but entirely too loud (I'm a streamer and I don't want loud keyboard noises picked up on the microphone). Desired specs:

• 6KRO. NKRO would obviously be fine but shouldn't be necessary.
  
• Full-sized keyboard (with large backspace and standard 2-row Ins-Home-PgUp) - I've heard tenkeyless is better ergonomically but I simply use the numpad too much.
  
• The quieter the better, but doesn't need to be silent.
  
• No macro keys on the sides; standard width. (Standard height is also preferable but less essential.)
  
• Other bonuses are likely irrelevant to me: I don't care about lighting, fancy keycaps, or modability.
  
• Either USB or PS/2 is fine, wired is fine (preferable?)
  
  So - I'd be perfectly happy with a Rubber Dome keyboard that had 6KRO, but these are rare and tend to cost as much as decent switches anyway. I can afford up to ~$200, but considering I currently have a preference for Rubber Dome much of what increases a keyboard's price isn't something I'm interested in paying for.
  
  Thus, I'm considering perhaps the Velocifire VM01, with off-brand Brown Switches and good ratings (I'd also get o-rings with it). I'd even consider e.g. a low-end Topre but am not convinced I'd find the extra cost worth it? Open to other suggestions as well.

The biggest question you want to answer for any mechanical keyboard is which type of switch you want.

Most exclusive gamers like linear switches, which let you double tap very effectively. These are usually sold as 'red' switches.

There's also clicky switches, which have a sharp bump and audible click when the key actuates. Sold as 'blue' switches.

Then there's tactile switches, which have a lighter bump when the key actuates (they're as quiet as reds). They're sold as browns, and are somewhat of an intermediate between red and blue.

Generally speaking, blues are for exclusively typing, reds for exclusively gaming, and browns are good for a mixture. I'd recommend going to a Fry's/Microcenter/Best Buy (in that order) and finding which of the three you prefer on a in store model. Brands vary between their implementation of clickly/tactile/linear, but not too much.

Then, figure out whether you need programmable macros and such. I usually play games that really don't require them, so it's a non issue for me.

If so, that tends to be the one feature that gaming marketed keyboards have over the others at this price point. Coolermaster is generally the only gaming themed company I respect much. Their stuff is well priced, and makes some cool innovations. And their keys have a standard layout.

If no, then you have a ton of good options and budget plays a big role. You could get the wireless Anne pro. The rgb Ducky Shine. Or the excellently budgeted Magicforce 68. You could get a WASD keyboard and completely customize individual keycap color.

Any of those would be good options, as well as more but it's probably already overwhelming.

Note all keyboard mouse combos use Esc for back. Need to use enter to select at main menu but sub menus the mouse select works

Mele f10
have to flip over for Esc/back button. Works good pretty accurate. Cue and rewind work in circle select area. Have to flip over and hit space bar to play/pause
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0092KDSQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407764634&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Logitech K400. keyboard/touch pad my favorite but big. Home button works as home. Play/pause, cue and rewind keys work
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DKZTMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407764657&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

T2 Air Mouse - DO NOT BUY, performs terribly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DIXSPA8/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?qid=1407765051&sr=8-18&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Sabrent USB hub, works perfectly but bright LEDs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BWF5U0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407766089&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Logitech N5902, exceedingly akward IMHO. Worked great with HTPC but not good with FireTV. BTW do not buy at amazon if you think you may want one it is too expensive. If more than $30 you are paying too much. Once again not good for FireTV but good for HTPC.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OTXLLC?pc_redir=1407493041&robot_redir=1

No need to apologize. I certainly haven't owned every board out there, so the best I can do is take a look at reviews to feature set with you.


So first, let's decide some things.
Do you want a backlight? If so, does it need to be RGB?


What size board do you prefer? I would suggest going no lower than tenkeyless if you're using it at all for some professional work, only because it could temporarily slow down your work rate because some keys will be in different positions or missing entirely. This may take getting used to. If you're up for that, that's cool too. Full size boards have a numberpad, some are larger with "macro" keys. There are variations with fewer keys, that maybe don't have arrow keys etc. and are slightly smaller. Then there's tenkeyless, which has no numbpad, and then smaller variations often with no function keys or arrow keys, with their functions require key combos.


We've got a price range, and we're going for mechanical, but I'm wondering how much branding and brand names matter to you. There are some boards out there with big logos, and they can be ugly as sin, doesn't affect functionality, but cosmetics are worth considering on something you look at daily. Next, do you need a brand that's "famous?" It may be hard to find a RAZER, Corsair, CoolerMaster, or other big names in the industry under $40, depending on your required feature set.

Finally, that brings us to switch type. There's a lot of brands of switch style, and if I had to guess, you're probably gonna have trouble finding Cherry MX, the most iconic switch type, in this range. That said, some of the "copy" switches are nearly identical and have pretty solid build quality, differences only noticeable by the most sensitive of typists. So here's a quick break down of the most popular switch types:

Blue: Tactile Bump during actuation, can feel it and hear it(loudest switch, clicks on bump, clacks when the key "bottoms out" or is pressed all the way down)

Brown: Very light tactile bump(I don't really feel it if I've just been typing on my blue or Razer green switch board), makes a sound when bottoming out. This is considered the happy medium, somewhat silent, can be made very quiet with an accessory, still had tactile feedback.

Red: Silent, linear switches. Not whisper silent, but much quieter, no noise or tactile bump when the keypress is actuated. I really don't think you'll be able to snag a new board with these.

Black: Silent, almost exactly like reds, but require more force to press down, they're not too popular as people complain they make their fingers tired. However, I see them a lot under budget boards.


The Blue, Brown and Reds are the most common. There are more switches out there, and some brands use different colors to associate the style, but the styles are largely the same.


I'm gonna link(not affiliate links) some boards, just to show the styles and backlighting options off, these are mostly a bit out of your price range, but this should give you a general idea of what they look like, and how much extra things like RGB cost:

Pretty standard tenkeylessboard: https://www.amazon.com/TOMOKO-Water-Resistant-Mechanical-Keyboard-Non-Conflicting/dp/B01DBJTZU2/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1520206833&sr=8-31&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


A compact board, I believe it's a 75% variation: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Keyboard-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520205858&sr=8-4&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


Tenkeyless RGB: https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Mechanical-Redragon-illuminated-ABS-Metal/dp/B019O9BLVY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520205858&sr=8-5&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


Fullsize board, the standard: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Programmable-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B073QPDZHQ/ref=sr_1_45?ie=UTF8&qid=1520206906&sr=8-45&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


Now, these are mostly "cheap" brands, in that they're not ultra famous like RAZER, or Corsair, etc. But, these are some of the more highly rated boards. Of course, you absolutely do not have to buy from amazon either, and these are mostly out of the range, so please get back to me on the style and backlighting options you'd like. I think one of these "knock off" brands will be your best bet, particularly if you want backlighting. Other users are of course free to offer advice too.


Once you tell me, generally, the size, and switch type we're after, we can try to find some boards that are on sale, not just the stuff I quickly found that was relatively cheap and well reviewed. Sometimes you can get something that seems a decent price, for even less if you watch and wait. So that might be worth considering too.

Please let me know your preferences, and I hope my explanations were somewhat clear.

I've had razor death adder for over a year and it's fantastic. I've traveled with it extensively when I would game at other peoples houses on my laptop. There seems to be a air of disapproval on reddit about razor products but the reviews rarely show it. I have large hands and it conforms to my grip perfectly. The drivers come with customization software as well. The top of the mouse feels like velvet making it a pleasure just to use it. Price isn't outrageous either. And it looks sexy. Better than the pictures do it justice in my opinion. Link

For some people this might look like a good deal. Nice packaging, printed documentation, all in a nice kit. There is a market for it and I'm sure they'll sell plenty.

The bright colors and fancy box do jack for me. And lets be frank. Most children, which this product is aimed at, won't care either what color the keyboard is or how nicely it's packaged. They'll only care what they can do with it, and there's already a huge community around the Raspberry Pi to give children cool stuff to play with.

You can spec out all of this stuff for almost $50 less and have the newer model Pi. Sure, for some people, this looks like a great deal. For me, without a screen/monitor, it's no good.

• Keyboard, $28, http://amazon.com/dp/B005DKZTMG
  
• Speakers, $9, http://amazon.com/dp/B000R9AAJA
  
• Ethernet cable, $6, http://amazon.com/dp/B001TH7GVE
  
• Raspberry Pi B+ Kit, $64, http://amazon.com/dp/B008XVAVAW (includes sd card, wifi adapter, case power adapter hdmi cord)
  

High School English (none of these are English specific)

This is room dependent as some schools have them, but one key thing that I haven't seen mentioned yet (apologies if I missed it) is a clock. Specifically get an atomic clock that has a highly visible seconds display. I just bought this one by Marathon refurbished. It makes a great deal of difference knowing whether there are 3 seconds or 30 seconds until the bell in my experience.

Another thing I highly recommend is this wireless trackball mouse. It makes a great presentation tool. You can do more with it than a clicker. You can just hold it on your leg if you need to use the mouse function while standing.

Also, get yourself some speakers that sound decent and have a) an easy way switch to headphones b) easily accessible volume control. Headphones are essential because you will undoubtedly be on your prep while the classroom next door decides to mutiny. The external volume control is much easier than having to click around on the computer (you could get a keyboard that has those features). These speakers are reasonably priced and have served me well. Bonus points if you can find an easy way to include bluetooth in the set up (I'm trying to figure out how to do that as my new school blocks spotify). If anyone has any ideas for me, I would appreciate it.

I'm a terribly unorganized person, but for me color coded folders helped me keep things a little more organized. Find durable plastic folders and assign a color for each different period. When you collect an assignment, it goes into the proper folder

Okay, so I've owned a Corsair K65 for a year now and still barely know anything about mechanical keyboards, but I'm learning more everyday. I love the MX Cherry Reds I have on it and have o-rings to dampen the noise, but I want something equally quiet or even quieter with some more feedback. I don't like clicky so I think MX Browns are good, if anyone has suggestions for me i'd appreciate it. I want a more compact keyboard, but I can't live without arrow keys, so I think a 68-key is best for me, and ideally it would be both wired and wireless, but that seems like a rare find. So either wired or wireless is fine, I just hate the bulky wire on my Corsair. I've also got a Tai-Hao Hawaii keyset coming in a couple months from Massdrop.


Now for my big question, can someone tell me the big difference between these two keyboards and why the prices are so different? Why would it be worth it to save up for the Varmilo?

Varmilo

Magicforce

I choose the keyboard on your list. Why? Because, when you 'treat yo self', you aren't supposed to buy practical things. It's a treat. You don't feed a dog it's normal meal, and call it a treat! YOU GIVE HIM A TREAT! SO TREAT YO SELF! And because it's a badass keyboard, and makes pc gaming that much more sweet. So you can relax and enjoy yo self after you treat yo self. ;)

I NEED DIS RIGHT MEOW. Why? Because, I have a TON of rare cards piling up, and I have literally nowhere to put them! I NEDZ DEM PROTEKTID.

Batman Suit.

Logitech G240 Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad for Low-DPI Gaming $14.99 ($19.99 - $5.00)

Logitech G13 Programmable Gameboard with LCD Display $38.99 ($79.99 - $41.00)

Logitech G400s Optical Gaming Mouse $31.99 ($59.99 - $28.00)

Logitech G700s Rechargeable Gaming Mouse $49.99 ($99.99 - $50.00)

Logitech G510s Gaming Keyboard with Game Panel LCD Screen $59.99 ($119.99 - $60.00)

Logitech G35 7.1-Channel Surround Sound Headset $59.99 ($129.99 - $70.00)

Logitech G710+ Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Tactile High-Speed Keys - Black $94.00 ($149.99 - $55.00)


Logitech G19s Gaming Keyboard with Color Game Panel Screen $99.99 ($199.99 - $100.00)

edit: Are there any of these that I would have to be put to death for not ordering? :D I have this hole in my pocket you see...

edit2: swapped ending price and discount on G710+ - would have been a much better deal though...

edit3: prices are beginning to rise back to normal/sell out. Sad days.

edit4: Amazon is apparently going to try to get re-stocking done throughout the day to allow more purchases at the sale price. If it's out of stock when you look the first time, check again in a while. I'll try to keep this list up-to-date as best I can.

edit5: Even better, for me anyway. Looks as if if they are going to stop re-stocking the items, they are completely removing the item from the page I linked. If you see a strike-throughd item above, it WAS here, now it's gone Johnson. Again, will update as I can.

edit6: Nope. Bastards are re-adding items to the page... grumble grumble... :D

edit7: I decided to dig a little bit, and turns out, if you follow my links in this post rather than only relying on just the deal page itself, they are updated more frequently and accurately. So, use these links in conjunction to the thread title, and you may very well benefit! Still updating, sleepy times soon though... Maybe...

edit8: That's all, she wrote! Some of the items prices are retaining their sale value as of this last edit, so, maybe it'll be a new list price for them, who knows, but I am marking the sale as over, since the link is now officially pointed into oblivion.. Thanks for the wonderful day of sales and discussions, and for those of you who got some new equipment, congratulations! Hope you enjoy them!

the g502 has a Pixart PMW 3366DM sensor which is a bit better than the ADNS 9800 in the m65. its got a better scrollwheel with side scrolling and infinite scroll. plus more programmable buttons.

the g600 is a great mouse for MOBAs and MMOs it also uses the ADNS 9800. for the price its got a great feature set.

the mionix naos 7000 might be something to consider. big, wide comfortable mouse with pinky support and a PixArt PMW 3310DH which is pretty much the best sensor on the market right now.

this video gives a good rundown on a lot of the more popular mice.

If you're looking to game (which seems to be the case), my only real recommendation is that for $40 you're better off getting a good mouse and a standard keyboard. $40 in the keyboard department won't net you any big benefits, but a $40 for a mouse definitely will. I personally thought that mice didn't matter a whole lot, but eventually got a Razer Deathadder and MAN it made a world of difference in comfort and overall enjoyment. If you can spring for it, I'd definitely recommend something like a DeathAdder (~$50) (though it seems like the Logitech G400 for $35 might be a better option for you). Most Logitech fans rave about the MX500, though it's not sold anymore, you may be able to find one with comparable features.

Do you know what switches? You should try some mechanical keyboards at Best Buy or Microcenter to get a feel for the different switch types.

Generally, you are better to get a separate wrist rest, as most any that come with a keyboard are just cheap plastic. Personally, I like my Grifiti for a wrist rest.

As you are used to using a Laptop keyboard, and presumably want a more portable keyboard, I would suggest a 60%.

The Magicforce 68 I a great bargain. There is nothing that equals the build quality in this price range.

For a bit more, and even better build, would be the KB Paradise V60 in Clears or Gateron Browns. Clears and Browns are tactile, yet quiet switches. Generally they are considered good for both gaming and typing.

For a bit more, there is the Pok3r. You get a metal case, and programmable keys over the V60.

60% keyboards have everything a larger Tenkeyless have in keys, but some keys like Home are only available by pressing the Function key.

If you want a TKL, then your best options are a CM Storm QFR or Ducky One TKL. CM makes a good quality board. Ducky is better but correspondingly costs more.

Velocifire VM01 Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Brown Switches LED Illuminated Backlit Anti-ghosting Keys (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Euf5ybQSEJZDK


i have this one, but they also have a tenkeyless for 30 here.


Velocifire TKL01 Tenkeyless Mechanical Keyboard with Brown Switches LED Backlit 87 Keys Gaming Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS8YTYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3uf5ybD850CZJ


As an owner of this board, I'll say this board is pretty awesome, but takes about a week or two to get used to. Awesome for gaming and typing, but feel might resemble that of an mx red in terms of actuation. The sound and click is definitely still there but subtle like it should be on a brown switch. Coming from redragon kumara blue switch board, it took awhile to get used to, but the sound difference was enough alone to make me happy. (:

For the mouse you don't need to spend a bunch of money to get something good, here's the mouse my friend uses. http://www.amazon.com/E-3lue-EMS109BK-Precision-Control-1600dpi/dp/B005CPGHAA/ His only complaint is he can't turn off the LED on it, which could be a problem if you don't like it. You could spend a bit more for a better mouse such as the Deathadder or Steelseries Rival (I personally own the rival, great mouse)

For keyboards, it's up to you if you want mechanical or membrane. Mechanical will be more expensive but it's nicer to type on and feels better. This is a very basic membrane keyboard, it works. Here is a good mechanical. (FYI it doesn't use the standard Cherry MX keyswitches most mechs use, although they still feel better then membrane). You can also look at Corsair's keyboards, Corsair's, and other manufactures mechanical keyboards.

For the monitor I'm assuming you want something decent, 1080p, 60hz? Here is a 24 inch 1080p 60hz monitor, you could look at cheaper ones too. It really depends on what you want. I use 2 23 inchers that I got for $100 and they work fine for my uses.

Good luck!

Well, the main thing to me is that I think they feel better. Not everyone will agree, but many people think they feel really nice. There are a lot of options so you can find the keyswitch that's perfect for you!

They are really customizable. My other mechanical keyboard is Portal themed. I gave it orange and blue colors and ordered some custom keycaps. It's a lot of fun to get it exactly how you want it.

There are so many options. This is kind of intimidating at first but after the initial purchase it's really exciting. This is where a lot of the expensiveness comes from. You want more just to have more and try everything. There are different sizes and layouts, and there are different switches and brands.

In the end it just comes down to wanting to enjoy your typing experience more. I'd say if you're interested get a switch tester and see if you like any of them more than the keyboard you're using right now :)

(All links are Amazon) These are things not everyone thinks of, but I really love having as part of my setup.
If it appeals to you, you could ask for a gaming keypad/gameboard whatever you want to call it. The famous ones are made by Razer and Logitech but I got a 20$ one that I love. Gives me so much room on my mousepad and is very comfortable to use.

Another good one is a mouse bungee. A popular one would be the Zowie Camade, but there are cheaper ones as well. I have one that is also a USB hub.

UPDATE

Hey guys, love all the comments and Questions, here is some info for those who care and want to know.


Products Used*


Touchscreen Bought Mine at MCM electronics.


Raspberry Pi2


Speakers


Amp


Keyboard



Software Running


Get Noobs on a SD/MicroSD card here

Use Noobs to boot and install Rasbian

Install KODI from add remove programs or terminal "sudo apt-get install kodi"

Install NPR and VevoTV in Kodi.



Cool Idea


User /benjimons has a really cool idea on his screen showing his webcams and other good info

User/agent-squirrel mentioned Dashing for a cool UI, I looked a little into it and it seems pretty cool



Dog Info

I don't know HomeDepots official dog policy, but yes, he goes with me all the time there, employees all love him, he is NOT a service dog, and lots of Dogs are in there. I usually see this in HomeDepots that are deeper in residential areas, not so much in a more industrial area...

Thanks, he's a great pup, we call him WiFi because of his Antenna's

Not sure if this is covered already.
When I broke my right hand (my mouse hand) I used a Logitech G13 gamepad.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE

They dont make this one any more but there are several others out there.

Was able to setup all they abilities and use the buttons for the thumb to makes shift/control options to triple the available buttons. Had several macros made to slim down the number of needed buttons. What made this really work for me was the thumb joystick. While certainly awkward at first with some time spent I was able to be nearly as efficient as using the mouse, only with close to 100 keys at my disposal (using shift/control). I still use this gamepad, but back to using mlook on the mouse. I just returned to WOW on Saturday after a 5+ year hiatus and had several people remark on my healing and dps skills (Shaman). Able to do both was not a testament to my my "l33t skilz" but to how easy having all these functions at your finger tips.

If you can get one at an affordable price, I would recommend them for everyone - certainly anyone who is dealing with similar issues.

On a related note: I box several toons on EQ. I have three of these gamepads and am able to play two other toons without even looking at their monitors. Not having to have 3 keyboards/mice on the desk. People only notice when I am not rolling on crap with all three toons and/or they never chat.

After you get used to them, you can never go back.

For a year or so after college, between work at an MSP and coming home to an empty apartment and a very enthusiastic WoW habit, I was spending 17 hours a day in front of a computer. I started experiencing wrist pain that was so bad I couldn't drive my car anymore. I switched to a more ergonomic keyboard/mouse setup and my wrist pain disappeared within a few of weeks.

I've long since left the MSP and WoW, but I've kept the keyboard and mouse, and recommended the same pair to many coworkers.

Microsoft Natural 4000 Ergonomic Keyboard

Logitech G400 Mouse

I also make liberal use of Allsop Metal Art Monitor Risers and clamp-on monitor arms - in my opinion, monitor position is just as important as proper keyboard and mouse ergonomics because it affects back, shoulders, neck, and eye strain too.

EDIT:

In the past, I've had clients and management balk at the price tags on ergonomic hardware. They'll argue something like "I can go to Wal-Mart and buy a new mouse for fifteen dollars. Why should I spend four times that much on a video gaming mouse?" because they don't understand the value that ergonomic hardware actually provides in a workplace.

1. Users who are comfortable in their workspaces can be more productive. It's tough to measure this one, because it's lots of little pieces that add up. From personal experience, though, I don't need to take as many breaks now as I did before I moved my monitors to a comfortable elevation, because my eyes and neck don't get fatigued as easily.
   
   
2. Users who have a workspace that fits them are more likely to be happy in their jobs and are more likely to stay in their jobs longer. Even in my current sysadmin role, I still do a lot of deskside support, and I get to observe people in their workspaces doing all kinds of uncomfortable things, because they don't know that it can be any different. For example, I have a user whose workload is primarily oriented towards data entry and scheduling. She should have been issued a desktop or thin client, but since she occasionally needs to record meeting minutes in a conference room, the previous tech staff had issued her a 14" laptop. So every day she'd hunch over her desk and squint to see the screen. I installed a 24" monitor, a slightly more ergonomic keyboard and an ergonomic mouse while she was out at lunch. When I came in the next day, I had a handwritten thankyou card under my office door and a plate of homemade cookies in my mailbox, and so did the CFO and CEO. She was awestruck that we'd go out of our way to spend a little money on making her more comfortable. Total pricetag for the company? $200.
   
   
3. New hardware is cheap. New staff are expensive. If I were to completely refit an existing staff's work area with a new monitor on an adjustable arm, ergonomic keyboard and mouse, and adjustable lumbar chair, it would cost the company less than $800, including my time. If we have to replace a staff, they have to go through a two-week paid training before they start doing any work, and it's some weeks after that before they are productive at the same level of the staff they replaced. The cost to the company during that time is thousands of dollars.
   
   
4. Worker's compensation claims are expensive, even if the company doesn't have to pay. Because lawyers.

I've used Rosewill and Velocifire mechanicals for work. They run in the $40-100 price range and feel pretty good. The one I'm using right now at work is the Velocifire VM01 it's $40. The browns they use aren't cherry so they feel a bit different(not as stiff) - but it feels good.

The Rosewill felt the best though if you don't mind a red switch it's $80 - browns etc run upwards of $100. I suggest browns for typing (if you speed type) and clears/reds for gaming or if you're a heavy typer.

I like the Velocifier because of the backlighting. And it's really good backlighting with a nice soft aqua green glow and multiple effects. Really makes people ask questions at work LOL.

Tell us more about your PC. I built 2 PC's last CHristmas, and I'm just now getting around to quality of life upgrades on mine. Here's some things I'm looking into right now:

1. Nice headphones. Don't get gaming or surround ones. Get something nice like Audiotechnica M50 or AD700, or the Senheiser or other equivalent.
   
   
2. Sound Card. Look into ones that can simulate 5.1 or 7.1 surround on stereo headphones. I just got an Asus Xonar DGX for $32, it's pretty nice so far.
   
   
3. Hard drive. Do you have an SSD. Do you wish you had more SSD space? What about HDD? You can add a decent amount of SSD space for less than $100 now, and 3TB HDD for around $100.
   
   
4. More RAM. If you have 8GB get another 8 if possible. If you have 16 or more I wouldn't worry about it.
   
   
5. Fan Controller. Hook up your case fans to this and you can control them directly.
   
   
6. A nice microphone. I like USB mics, but I haven't looked into my sound cards abilities yet.
   
   
7. Logitech Gameboard I've not used one but it looks like it might be nice.
   
   
8. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2DQUTN9CQ33GK&coliid=I1A917UUL2XKMV
   
   
9. Xbox Controller. Can be 360 or Xbox One. If you have wireless 360 controllers you can get an adapter for 12$. If you're buying a wired one you can get an official one, or there are some nice offbrand ones.
   
   
10. N64 and/or Gamecube to USB adapter. Then check out N64 and Dolphin Emulators.
    
    Besides those you might want to just go poke around Amazon in the Computer Accessories and other related categories to see what's popular.
    
    
    **I see that you said you already have headphones, but still check out the rest of the list.
    

I have a tronsmart Vega S89-H, different box but similar hardware.

1. No clue, sorry. If I had to guess though, I'd say probably. I've encountered almost zero apps that don't work on these devices. I haven't tried it myself, but I've heard the new amazon streaming app doesn't work yet. That's about it though.
   
   
2. You can download paid apps.
   
   
3. You can change the launcher. I am currently using Holo Launcher on mine.
   
   I've also heard good things about the Minix Neo line, but I decided to go for the tronsmart because it was recommended to me by another redditor, it has good reviews on Amazon and because it was significantly cheaper. I'm not recommending one over the other, but the vega may be a good option if you want to save a few bucks. You may also want to look at any RK3288 boxes you can find, that is one of the newest chips and may have some good boxes built on it, although I couldn't find one when I purchases the vega.
   
   It isn't necessary, but I got this remote control to use with my vega:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B9996LA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YEA53M3RQ14Z&coliid=I3NDYOKM45H6GL&psc=1
   
   The remotes that come with these devices aren't always the best and I find this one much more useful. You can also use an android tablet or phone to control it, but I kind of like this better.
   
   Good luck with your purchase!

Hi everyone! I have a few questions about a few different things.

1. I recently purchased a Salmon on Ice v2 keyboard (Whitefox PCB) as my first dive into custom boards, and though it sounds pleasant when typed with, it requires a huge amount of force to actuate when compared to the standard Brown or Red switch. I currently have an Akko 3068 and Varmilo VB87m (both with Brown switches) and both are so much easier to game/type on for extended periods of time. I wanted to lube the switches to see if that would help, so I bought this lube but I'm honestly terrified about taking the board apart since I spent ~$240 on it. I also tried some O-Rings, but they didn't seem to help much. Any suggestions or advice would be incredibly appreciated.
   
2. I am also looking to get my girlfriend a board, and she wants something similar to GMK Samurai or GMK Bento keycaps; basically anything with secondary Japanese characters on the caps. Those probably go for ~150-200 for the set, so something cheaper with similar aesthetics is what I'm looking for. She wants a white casing, so I was going to go with this with some nice keycaps. Any recommendations on a cheaper/similar version of those keycaps, as well as maybe a better (or wireless) 65%/TKL base to use!
   
   Sorry if it was a wall of text/unclear, but any help would be greatly appreciated :) I can answer any clarifying questions relatively quickly.

Are you even a little bit tech savvy? Part of why there isn't a real bundled solution to this is because it's pretty easy to just make your own.

Find a Raspberry Pi. Install a basic OS (Arch or something) with an editor like Emacs or Vim, and nothing else. Get a housing that can accommodate a little LCD panel like the one in the Freewrite. Pick a keyboard you like. Boom. You have your own personal Freewrite for under $100.

In terms of keyboards, you can get really nice "portable" mechanical keyboards like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Element-Mechanical-Keyboard-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=portable+mechanical+keyboard&qid=1574228057&sr=8-9

Find one with the switches you want, and you're off to the races.

For getting your materials off the computer, there are 3 major ways:

1. Set up SSH (it's easy) so you can access your Pi's filesystem from any computer via the internet
   
2. Remove the Pi's micro SD card and put it in a computer, read files manually
   
3. Save all files on a USB stick or something similar
   
   This is what your typical writing experience would look like on a setup like this: http://jasonwryan.com/images/post_images/distract-full.png
   
   ​
   
   Let me know if you have any questions! This sounds like it could be a fun little project. I may do it too.

I'd recommend installing the OS on a usb 3.0 flash drive and just booting from the sd card.

Also it seems you're set on raspbmc but I'd honestly recommend openelec as it does have a slight performance advantage. See here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYfU7v_FO6U

Here is the flash drive I'm running xbmc off of:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121155982425?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648

I also recommend overclocking (I'm at 1GHz) and doing a 256/256 memory split to get a balance of smooth menu navigation and video playback performance.

My setup has the hub and a wireless card plugged directly into the pi. Then the USB Flash drive running the os, my 1.5tb external hd (for media), and a wireless dongle for my keyboard remote plugged into the powered hub.

Also, once you get everything installed I recommend you take a look at XBMCHub and install the unofficial repos using fusion. I'd recommend installing Transmission (turn xbmc into a torrent server that can download straight to your external hd), Project Free TV, Navi-X, Icefilms, 1Channel, I Watch Online, Sports Devil, Youtube, and VEVO. There are lots of other plugins but you can browse through the repos and choose the ones you like best.

I'm planning on getting my first mechanical keyboard and could really use some advice. At the moment, I'm torn between:

1. KBParadise V80 TKL
   
2. KUL ES-87
   
3. Qisan MagicForce
   
   The first two use Cherry MX Clears and I'm not really sure how to judge the relative quality of the boards. Does anybody have any opinions on that? The third option is an inexpensive board using OUTEMU blues. That's me wondering whether I should dip my foot in the water a little bit before committing to something more expensive.
   
   I used a Cherry Mx Blue keyboard for a couple of minutes recently and my first reaction was that the keys were surprisingly light and easy to bottom out. I then bought a switch tester and found the Clears to seem nicest; quiet with a strong tactile bump and a high force after actuation to prevent bottoming out. I'm just wondering if I only prefer this due to familiarity because I'm used to using the old-style Thinkpad keyboards which are most similar to the Clears. Maybe if I forced myself to use a lighter keyboard then I would adjust and end up loving it. Or maybe I should get Greens or Browns as a bit of a compromise.
   
   So, if anybody has any advice on the V80 TKL vs the KUL ES-87 then that would be awesome. I would also love to hear any broader advice on whether I should trust my first impressions or just start with a more popular and less expensive switch to see how I adjust. I'm sure that plenty of people here have made a similar transition from rubber domes.

Looks good.

It needs a slot loaded drive. Unfortunately your options are limited and kind of pricey.

Windows 8 has an advantage in application support and compatibility. However it's possible that Linux can also cover all your needs. Plex, XBMC and Steam are all available for Linux. I'm fairly sure you won't have any issues with Plex or XBMC but I can't say the same with Steam. I've read that it's possible to stream to the Linux Steam client but I haven't heard much more than that.

I use the Logitech k400. It's pretty much widely recommend on this sub because it's fairly cheap and works really well.

I don't have much experience with Chromecast so I can't offer much advice. It's a fairly popular product though so there should be plenty of reviews around.

A HTPC is capable of much more than just serving media. Whereas a Chromecast has a much more limited feature set. It really depends on how much you value the extra features a HTPC offers. PC gaming on your couch through a big screen is pretty sweet though.

Neither does the purchase of the xbox. You don't put your entertainment center's cost into it.

You're also failing to remember that TVs have HDMI ports, and so do GPUs. You can use a controller with your PC in pretty much every game that isn't an MMO or a DOTA clone.

As far as the keyboard and mouse, you could easily start with two $10 shitters. I have a Corsair K70 RGB (blue) that I'm typing this on right now, but before I had this, I was typing on a Logitech K120, and for a membrane keyboard, it was actually really good.

EDIT: Just read the bit about the OS. It's true that Windows is sort of expensive, but Linux is slowly (and actually measurably, not just "ITS YEAR OF LENOX GUIZE") becoming a very viable gaming platform. Loads of games are coming out for Linux because of SteamOS, and lots of AAA titles now too. Borderlands and the witcher series come to mind. There are also ways to get legitimate Windows licenses for free (if you're a student) or nearly free. In the future, there may even be completely free versions of windows, and windows 10 is a completely free upgrade to anyone running 7 or up.

this is my current htpc setup

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-3225 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor |-
Motherboard | Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard |-
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $76.97 @ OutletPC
Storage | Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $126.45 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | XFX Radeon HD 7750 1GB Video Card |-
Case | Lian-Li PC-TU200B Mini ITX Tower Case | $154.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $34.99 @ Micro Center
| | Total
| prices are missing ahhhh | ~ $650
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-12 18:09 EST-0500 |

along with one of these http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Built-In-Multi-Touch/dp/B005DKZTMG

my computer's over kill for a htpc but alright as a lightweight gaming rig. super meat boy and bioshock both play fine, and i cant imagine civ5 playing that horribly.

movies/tv are stored on a nas, which ive mapped as a network drive. xbmc is great for watching movies but vlc or literally any other video player will work fine.

I have plex set up on my nas but it's for my friends, not me; the last time i was on plex was when I had to reboot my server to restart plex...
plex does not stream games, but steam does if you have a second computer running because im on a full windows 7 desktop.

as for your last point, I love my k400. im using it right now, surfing reddit from my couch. I havent launched steam in a while but it would be fantastic if they could play local video from big picture mode. its possible there might be some add-ons that do this but ive done no research on it so idk, so you could set it up so that when you turn your htpc on it automatically launched steam in big picture mode

What are you going to be using this mouse/keyboard for?

• In all seriousness, a mouse is about left/right click, back/forward buttons (on mid-high end mice), and the scroll wheel. You're also looking at wireless vs. wired capability. Do you need to work far away from your computer at any time? (Wireless) Do you depend on zero latency for clicks? (Wired or very high end wireless) [Those are just a few examples]
  
  
• A keyboard's main concerns are sheer number of buttons, mechanical/non-mechanical, wireless/wired, and lighting/sensors etc. Once again the variable applications and settings for these devices will all depend on where and how you want to use it!
  
  While you're at it... grab a good mouse pad, cloth-woven with strong edges and gripping rubber on the bottom.
  
  
  ___
  
  Gamers usually opt for a nice mechanical keyboard (sometimes backlit for nighttime gaming sessions). On the other hand, for an HTPC you might like back-lighting and wireless capabilities. Or for normal use... simple, wired efficiency. You can even get solar-powered keyboards now to be more environmentally friendly!
  
  As for mice... the choices are wide open. Getting a 'gaming' mouse is NEVER a bad decision as they are usually manufactured with a higher degree of quality assurance and wonderful ergonomics. Personal tangent: An expensive (but entirely worthwhile) gaming mouse cured my tendonitis.
  
  
  A stellar Logitech mouse. (G400)
  
  I used one of those for many years before switching over to my current Razer Mamba. Razer mice are very expensive and usually come with a host of fancy lights and extra buttons. It really depends on what you need the mouse for, so I won't clutter your screen with links until we know more!
  

I'm thinking about getting a new mouse. I tried some out in store the other day, to discover they all feel more comfortable than the cheap thing I have right now. I don't quite know what it is that I want.

• Games: I don't have a primary atm, so a bit of everything. Though I rarely play fps games. [But I haven't tried Overwatch, and that might change my mind]. No MMO or MOBA. But I'll be using the mouse daily for everything, including general browsing and use while researching etc.
  
  
• Handed: Right. Though I do sometimes use my mouse in my left, so maybe ambidextrous. Not a requirement though, as I can happily use a right-handed w/ my left.
  
  
• Budget: Maximum at £50. But would prefer lower [since I don't need bells and whistles].
  
  
• Hand size: Average, ish. 17cm tip of the middle finger to the base of the hand. I think that's what you're asking for. 8cm sideways.
  
  
• Grip type: I tend to grip w/ my fingertips, and pivot on the 'ball' of my hand/ wrist. But I also change, and sometimes use others for a bit. edit: I think my grip type is heavily dependent on the mouse I'm holding. I tried a Mionix and it was comfortable.
  
  
• Weight: I don't know, I've never held a 'heavy' mouse before. So I'll just say average.
  
  Any other details:
  
  
• I generally would like to be able to adjust my mouses sensitivity on-mouse via buttons.
  
  
• I don't want any configuration via software i.e. plug and play. [as I use linux, and drivers are generally a bitch]
  
  
• No LEDS [or atleast disableable], and it can't look too gamery.
  
  
• Buttons near the thumb for browsing: back-up, go-forward type things.
  
  
• Preferably black or grey, but not required. Preferably non-obtuse logos, but not required.
  
  
• Since I don't play fps, I especially don't need a mouse that they tend to like, with really low sensitivity and sliding your hand all over the table to use. I don't have much desk space, and due to my fingertip-pivot-grip I need a sensitivity such that I can maneuver my cursor around my 24" monitor w/ ease.
  
  
• Wired
  
  
• Not a requirement, I don't know if such things exist, but - quiet? Do quiet mice exist?
  
  Since I don't know too much about mice, I'm quite open for suggestion, and I don't think I'm too picky and could have my mind changed if you recommend something. If there are any features [esp. ergonomic ones] you think would be useful to me, please tell me.
  
  ---
  
  Also - What's with the mice with the free wheeling scrolls? Is there a list of mice that use this? What are the general uses for this? Looks quite fun though... So, if it's a choice that I can get w/o many sacrifices, I wouldn't say no.
  
  edit: I'll not have a look over logical increments if anything catches my eye. But I doubt it since I don't really know what I'm looking for. This Logitech G400s and Razer Deathadder are the kind of look I'm trying to avoid.

I haven't personally used these, but I've found some that have decent reviews. As /u/Faiter119 suggested, Logitech is a very trusted brand. The K120 is your basic, plain old keyboard.

There is also the Amazon Basics keyboard, which I would trust right off the bat as they provide decent quality electronics.

If you're willing to get a bit adventurous, I found the BlueFinger backlit keyboard that also comes with a mouse (for a promotion), but has no reviews because it won't be released until the 11th. This is the best $30 keyboard I've ever seen, to be honest. It looks legit, and their other keyboards are the same basic design and all get 4-5 stars, so I would take the risk. Amazon is always really cool about giving full refunds on products in case it doesn't work out.

Really depends on what feature set you're looking at.


Rule of thumb is that if you're seeing aggressive marketing from a company, their boards suck. Don't buy corsair, don't buy razor, don't buy Logitech. These can be worth your time if you get them seriously marked down but that rarely happens today.


If you just want a generic, entry level mechanical keyboard, Red Dragon is a stupidly good place to start. 49 bucks for a full feature keyboard with RGB LED's.


If you want the smaller form factor you have other choices too.


>But I don't care about LED's, I just want a keyboard that's durable!


Then you're buying the god father of the modern keyboard- either the IBM Model M, or it's family of virtual clones from Unicomp


>But I want to play video games like a pro and that's not even a mechanical keyboard!


Correct! The Model M is a membrane keyboard which limits it's ability to register repeated key strikes. It's also the best keyboard on the market for general use because of it's robust after market. Unicomp makes sure there's a healthy after market for replacement parts and use a grade of plastic that actually holds up well and doesn't yellow.


If you really need a full mechanical keyboard I'd still direct you back to the top. Buy a Red Dragon.

That's quite possible. I don't understand how anyone could ever be confused by computers. Using the terminal to move files from your server to your HTPC (Though there's no need to, just stream from the server) is so easy.

Of course setting it up can be complicated, it's definitely not plug and play. I thought about stating a business on the side setting up HTPCs for people, but I doubt I wanna deal with support.

I think I have mine set up pretty well, my girlfriend knows exactly how to use it. Windows 7, WMC auto-boots (not that the computer is ever off) Logitech K400 is my remote. Hulu, netflix, yahoo plugins on WMC.. super simple.

I'd also like to say that that keyboard is amazing. Small, not too small. The left click button ( wish it had right too) on the upper left lets you use trackpad with right thumb, click with left thumb. I'd recommend it to anyone with a htpc.

1. Bra--It's a U-shaped plunge, which I think would work best. Plus I love Maidenform!
   
   
2. I'm thinking you need some sexy platform heels for this dress. These are cute, and super cheap!
   
   
3. I love tights with backseams! Here's a pair that's a bit bolder. This pair has a really pronounced backseam, which I love.
   
   
4. These are adorable. Love the blue.
   
   
5. Not sure what to do for this one. I like... vibrators?? ha ha
   
   
6. Get him a nice mouse! I bought my husband this one for Christmas and he's using it right now :D This one is a bit spendy at $50, but he loves it.
   
   Anniversary story -- it's happening right now :) My husband has never been awesome at gifts, and he's always felt really bad about it. Sometimes he just wouldn't get me anything at all, or say he would later and then never do it... anyway, he overheard me talking to some friends about how it kind of makes me sad, and he's been stepping up since the first of this month. Our anniversary is on the 14th, and i've been getting little gifts every day with a number countdown on each one :)

Pretty much any keyboard or mouse will work, though I'm 90% sure only the basic functions will work, so dont go out buying like some super legit gaming keyboard and mouse with a ton of extra macro buttons and functions on them, as im pretty sure none of that will work. Best bet is to just get a basic wireless keyboard and mouse imo, that way you can use them from wherever youre sitting with your wireless controller. Personally I use mainly just the controller, and a keyboard for typing, but I don't really need a dedicated mouse for playing the game since again, I use the gamepad, so I personally use this guy- https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG Since the only thing I really use the mouse for in FF14 is rearranging/resizing my UI, a trackpad is good enough for basic stuff like that, and I like the convenience of having it all their in one package. So I just play with my controller and have the keyboard sit in my lap or just sitting next to me so I can just grab it when I need it to type or like I said want to rearrange my UI or whatever.

Mice

• Logitech G500 Programmable Gaming Mouse $57.39, probably the best bet for reliability and gaming functionality. I have 2 of these on different computers.
  
  
• Logitech Corded Mouse (M500)$28.79
  
  I can't personally recommend any Razer mice though I'm using a Razer Tron mouse at the moment. Every Razer mouse I've had, has had issues with the left mouse button randomly double clicking.
  
  Keyboards, you can get away with a lot in the keyboard department as they all do pretty much the same thing. Here's a couple of options.
  
  
• Logitech Keyboard K120 $11.97 It's just a standard keyboard, no bells no whistles. Not designed for gaming but will work fine for any game.
  
• Microsoft SideWinder X4 Keyboard $47.70, Microsoft has been known to make the odd good keyboard here and there. This is so far as I know, one of them.
  
• Logitech Gaming Keyboard G105 Call of Duty: MW3 Edition $64.99, Entry level gaming keyboard with programmable keys. If you can get past the Call of Duty branding on this device it'd probably be a pretty good keyboard for you and the programmable keys would work with any game.
  
• Logitech Gaming Keyboard G110 $69.99, For $5 more you can get a game agnostic gaming keyboard with 12 programmable keys.
  
• Logitech Gaming Keyboard G510 $99.67, Now you enter the realm of on keyboard displayed, these work pretty good for a lot of games. A friend of mine has one of these and it's served him very well. I've never seen the point of an on keyboard display as I've never used the one I've got for anything.
  
  EDIT: I accidentally the whole description of a product.

Here are my suggestions.

Mice:

• G305 is the top of my list. It's light, lightspeed wireless, good buttons, and a "perfect" sensor. 6 month battery with AA, you can make it significantly lighter with a AAA lithium ion with some tin foil jammed in it.
  
• G502 is the alternative if you want a wired, heavier mouse with more buttons and a better scroll wheel (it also goes left and right). You can get the different varieties of it, it doesn't really matter. They're all great.
  
• Treat yo self? Logitech G Pro Wireless. It's $150. It's the pro mouse. It's slightly bigger than the G305 and not that different. Save the $100, get the G305.
  
• Avoid: Corsair Dark Core RGB (and SE). You can get this for $25. It's supposed to be a wirelessly rechargeable wireless mouse (got all that?) with RGB, programmable buttons, and the peak of Corsair's mouse technology. It's shit. Dog shit. It doesn't recharge consistently (wirelessly) and has terrible mouse feet, leading to more friction when using it. The software is okay, but I cannot recommend this mouse despite the good price.
  
  Keyboards:
  
  
• Small form factor for cheap? Grab a 68 key keyboard with the arrow keys and some knock off cherries. They're like $40 and type well. I liked this one by Quisan.
  
• Want full sized? Go refurb Corsair or Logitech. Here is a Corsair K70 for $50. Here is the Logitech G610 for $60.
  
• Treat yo self? I got a Logitech G613 wireless mechanical for about $90. It's nice to type on, wireless with no lag, and the battery lasts for 6 months or more (mine is going on more).
  
• Avoid: bluetooth keyboards. That's really it. I've had Logitech, Corsair, and knock offs all work just fine for me. There are better brands, but pretty much everything from $20 mechs to $150 ones work pretty well if you follow reviews.
  
  I'll admit these are mostly from my perspective from the US, so I'm not sure how to check UK prices. I would imagine that since these are large brands, most of the pricing would be consistent.

It does sound like you're moving your hands a little too much. Are you using F1-F4 for targeting? Have you tried using your mouse to select a target from the party list instead of using F1-F4? My most effective healing is using the mouse to select people from the party list, and having my primary healing spells bound to 1 - 5 (Cure/Cure2/Cure3/benediction/Regen). Stoneskin and Protect are on 7 and 8 because they are used less. Other healing spells (Medica/Medica2/Divine Seal/etc) are bound to Shift 1 - 5 and Alt 1 - 5. Now, I have small hands, so hitting shift 1 - 5 and alt 1 - 5 is a little complicated uncomfortable, so I actually bound the forward and back buttons on my mouse to shift and alt using a program called XMouseControl. This way, all I have to do is shift my index finger of my right hand ever so slightly to access those abilities, and my left hand doesn't stray far from the keys for my abilities or the keys that make me move.

I use the same concept for my offensive abilities (aero, stone, etc) but instead of using 1 - 5, I use shift- & alt- Q, W, E, which leaves W available for movement. I got rid of strafe directions because I never use them and remapped Q and E to Chocobo and Sprint

Also don't discount that in a clutch, you can press both mouse buttons at once to run in whatever direction you are facing.

I'd honestly go out to some training dummies and spend some time playing around with the keybindings until you find something that you're comfortable with. It's very different for each person - hand size, keyboard size, placement of keys, the desk you're sitting at can all make a difference in how things feel, so it'll take some playing around until you find what feels right for you. A lot can also be said for just plain muscle memory. It'll take awhile once you find a layout that is comfortable for you, but after awhile muscle memory will kick in and you won't even have to worry about it.

Edit: I a word

The Amazon Fire TV is great and very high quality for only $99. If you have amazon prime, you can use it to watch some "free" shows/movies, or simply download the Netflix or Hulu app.

It doesn't have a full qwerty keyboard, but is compatible with any keyboard, including bluetooth ones such as this or this one which is only $15.

The best part is that it is supported by Amazon, which has some of the best customer support around. I don't know what the prices are in the UK, but it seems like it'd fall within your budget.

LED's are PCB mounted.

The extra switches are all Outemu Blues.

The sockets are only compatible with Outemu switches, but you can sharpen the pins slightly (left is clipped, right is stock) and fit other brands of switches in. I don't know how that'll affect the resale value of the switches.

The case itself resonates a bit more than other keyboards I've tried; bottoming out produces a satisfying but inconsistent "thwock". The stabilizers don't rattle at all, which is good, and the switches I've replaced feel perfectly secure as well.

That said, if you're considering dropping Gaterons in a board, you might want to look at their slightly more expensive ones; this sale is for the static rainbow-colored keyboard. For $15 more (or less if they go on sale/used) you can get the real per-key RGB lighting versions in either TKL or 75%.

if ur looking for new a headset, SteelSeries Arctis 5 are awesome. Super comfortable, long cable with detachable ends, really sleek and minimal design. Would recommend over Logitech, Kingston offerings. Mouse i always go with logitech, my G203 is a budget gaming mouse that works fine. Finally E-Element has some really nice budget mech keyboards that have worked great for me. I sold my full size to stick with my tenkeyless and i love it.

Let us be real, it does, but it doesn't affect your gameplay nearly as much as the mouse.

For anyone that never used a mech keyboard in their life, I suggest you try one. Most common switches are red (linear, good for gaming, quite silent) and blue (clicky, loud, very satisfying to type on). I play FPS on a keyboard with blue switches without problem.

I bought this for my lil' bro : click!

He is super happy, and the keyboard feels good. No need to go over-budget with a 300$ Filco majestouch and stuff at first. Addiction to mech keyboards costs a lot more then addiction to mice. A LOT.

edit: typos

I've been playing PS3 since launch due to waiting for my iMac to be repaired. You'll need a copy each because the key is tied to your PSN account. The two-install rule of PSN does not apply in this case. The monthly fee has been discussed already as has the GCD.

I want to take a moment to talk about just how great the console port is, though. Because I've played bottom to top on multiple classes and I think they've done a fantastic job of it. The free PS4 client upgrade is an amazing offer, too, and might even bring me back to console after the fact. The only recommendation I have is something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-920-003070/dp/B005DKZTMG/

The little USB receiver is unobtrusive, the range is good, and it gives you a keyboard for proper typing (as well as quicker access to inventory and the like) and also gives you a mouse pointer when you need it in a pinch.

> The price of a PS4 Pro bundle is around $430. That's around the same price of this build from the PCMR wiki. The PC build is slightly stronger than the PS4 Pro, but I believe that more overhead is needed in PC builds since games on the PC have a tendency to be less-optimized than on console so let's just consider them equal.

I strongly recommend against trying to match the setup cost of a PS4 (or any other console) when putting together a PC. You get an absolutely ridiculous boost to your value if you just spend a little more to begin with. Just as an example, swapping out the 460 in that link for a 470 produces a system that costs under US$530 - nearly $100 more, but absolutely annihilates even the PS4 Pro in terms of performance (thanks chiefly to the general target of 30FPS on PS4). The money will be made back on savings on PC anyway (cheaper games, free online), and you'll have better performance from day one.

Although these prices are largely moot, anyway, as the OP is in Canada (at least, I assume that's why they're buying in CA$!), and they're talking about buying later this year, rather than today.

I'll also throw in that PCs can connect to TVs nowadays, so you don't need a monitor - although, granted, this wasn't generally the case 10-15 years ago. (The "HDMI" on PC graphics cards is the same "HDMI" used on TVs, and they even use the same cable.)

(For a keyboard, I can recommend the indestructible Logitech K120!)

I really love my Logitech m510 wireless. Mouse has two thumb buttons & wheel has center & tilt buttons and - I use SolidWorks and Excel most of the time I'm on my computer with X-Mouse Button Control (free) I get some very intuitive shortcuts specified for whichever program I'm currently in (SW-normal to & isometric on the thumbs, rotate 90 on the tilt buttons; Excel-tab shit forward/back on the thumbs, page left/right on the wheel tilts). If you watch amazon (via camelcamelcamel) you can get it for $16 (currently $20 in black), but full price is $40. I also appreciate that the receiver is really tiny and doesn't get in the way when you throw your laptop in your bag (storage compartment in the battery compartment if you want to totally remove it without losing it), but my real hesitation was battery life which turned out to be amazing (13+ months of daily use thus far and I either haven't changed them at all or once, I honestly don't remember doing it, but I might have forgotten). Lastly, I had tried smaller travel mouses, but I'd much rather carry a slightly larger wireless without needing extra batteries (2xAA) or a charging cable and the ergonomics make my hand happy, so there's that.

congrats on the setup completion! The curvature on that mouse is sexyyy. good luck streaming!

I would be interested in the Xsplit license! I believe mine is set to expire some time this year, a little extra extension would be nice. :)

My current keyboard/mouse setup is the Cooler Master Devastator combo pack, blue. I got it when i built my PC last year and had a budget to stick to, so just got a combo. It definitely works fine and the lights are cool! blue is my favorite color too. im content with it, but of course could always be better.

I would definitely love to eventually upgrade. I have my eyes set on the Razer BlackWidow Chroma Stealth Silent RGB keyboard and the Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum mouse. so expensive. eventually, eventually. T___T

I currently run a Gaming Rig/Media PC, so I might be able to help you out. If you're looking to stream throughout the house, Plex is the obvious choice, but I would recommend using Kodi on your main TV, if the PC is going to be hooked up to it.

I would also recommend this keyboard
it is pretty small and works really well. If the PC is hooked directly to the TV, it is easy enough to just use a web browser for Netflix/Hulu

For ripping blurays I would suggest using MakeMKV for the initial rip and handbrake for the compression. Also Filebot is a great naming tool that I use a lot.

I've had a look at the devastator combo and it definitely looks interesting at that pricepoint. However, I would offer the following:

1. What do you want from your keyboard? Do you want to improve your typing experience or looking to enhance your gaming? Either way, shelling out more money will get you better ergonomics (reduced strain, increased longevity, etc.) and in most cases a big increase in how long a board can stay with you.
   
2. Have you considered mechanical switches? I switched a little while back and now I can't imagine buying rubber dome again. It's not because of elitism, it's simply a better experience for me all round and I now live in the knowledge that the board I have will be with me for some time.
   
   There are some really decent boards at reasonable pricepoints scattered all about. The immediate ones that come to mind are:
   
   
3. Corsair K65
   
4. CM Storm Quickfire Rapid
   
5. Rosewill RK-6000
   
   Granted, these are above the pricepoint mentioned for the devastator but if you're willing, the ergonomics and quality of these boards should vastly outweigh it.
   
   As mentioned, have a look at /r/mechanicalkeyboards once you have a feel for what you want in a keyboard. If you spend significant amount of time behind a computer in the first place (gaming + work can easily soak up dozens of hours a week) then investing in quality kit seems like a good idea.
   
   If you think the Devastator set looks awesome and fits your needs, by all means go for it. Be sure to post pics and your experience when you get it!
   
   EDIT: For reference, have a quick look at the reviews being posted on Amazon. Though not the most reputable source, they do seem to highlight a number of concerns for this combo with build quality and polish. Most notably the fact that the scroll lock key is used to turn the LEDs on and off on the keyboard but simultaneously also turns that function on. This may be a problem if you use programs that respond to that key being on. In addition, it appears that a) the keys are not particularly well-finished and may have some chips in them and b) when the LEDs are off you can't see the writing on the keys. Not a problem if you're a touch typist but if you tend to look at the board while typing you may have issues.
   
   Linky: http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-Devastator-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00DKXXAAQ

I've never used a deathadder, but if I could make some recommendations, the Logitech G400 and Perixx MX-2000B are really good mice in my experience. the [G400] (http://amzn.com/B0055QZ216) is particularly liked by the people over at /r/mousereview for its sensor, and it's just a nice looking, minimal mouse. I just got the [Perixx MX-2000B] (http://amzn.com/B0083H4NG4) and while it's a branded version of a mouse that some other companies use, I can tell you it's a very comfortable mouse to use and works well in gaming. Doesn't hurt that it's $31.99 and you get stuff like LED customization and weight tuning.

If you want to play Portal (which I highly recommend!), buy the Orange Box - then you get Portal, 3 Half-Lifes, and Team Fortress 2 all for $15 (on sale right now).

Also, they are expensive, but I'd recommend looking in to a gaming mouse, like a Razer or a Logitech. These mice have extra buttons, on the side and other places, that you can program to use for standard game commands like reload, pick up, etc.

I for the LIFE of me couldn't get the hang of using keyboard commands, but I can click on stuff like a boss. This is probably the single best gadget that helped me make the jump from gamer's girlfriend to autonomous gamer. So yeah. In case you needed more stuff to spend your money on. ^.^

edit: spelling/formatting

My point was that switch preference is subjective. What I like won't necessarily be what you like. But one switch type isn't outright "better" for gaming than any other. I prefer tactile switches like Cherry MX Brown and Clear, but some people game on Reds (linear), Blues or Greens (clicky), or even heavy switches like Tactile Grays. The guy who got me interested in mechanical keyboards games on a Buckling Spring IBM Model M.

As it seems you're just starting out, I'd suggest something with Brown switches, which in my opinion is a good middle-of-the-road switch. After using them you can decide if you like the tactile feedback, or if you'd prefer not to have it (which would mean Reds or Blacks), or if you like it but you'd like a click sound too (which would mean Blues or Greens).

I'd actually suggest you go a slightly different direction and get the Velocifire TKL01 for $30, or maybe the James Donkey 619 for $50. Both are backlit but you can turn the lights off.

https://www.amazon.com/MIONIX-Multi-Color-Ergonomic-Optical-Gaming/dp/B00HGKQ6VY apply the $5 coupon get it BNIB for $35 from amazon right now. I pulled it out last night to remember why i didn't stick with it, the pinky rest protrudes a little to far, but the ring finger one feels nice! if your hand was big enough though i could see it being more comfortable. But it's really nice besides that, it's pretty big. Lemme know if you want some comparison shots once i'm home.

Link to my craigslist posting: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/sys/5667199085.html

Asking $1250

The post:

Sold off my desktop last year because I needed a mobile workstation/gaming setup. I no longer need one. Truth be told, I never needed one, but considering I never move it...no reason to hold on to it.

Total cost of the entire package new (links included to amazon and NewEgg below): $2401 + Shipping charges from NewEgg - I use Amazon Prime, so if I order from there most of the time so I don't pay shipping, but this exact model isn't sold anywhere by NewEgg.

I figure cut the price in half, get a screaming laptop, and a bunch of fantastic peripherals. This is an AMAZING machine, top notch. Just time for me to part ways.

I am willing to accept trades for a desktop, but it must be in mint condition (as my equipment all is), and it must be comparably spec'd.

Laptop Specs: ($1499 new)

• Processor: i7 5700HQ @ 2.70 GHz - 4 core w/hyperthreading
  
  
• RAM: 16 GB
  
  
• SSD: 128 GB m.2 SSD
  
  
• HDD: 1TB HDD
  
  
• Video: GTX 970M also Intel HD Graphics 5600
  
  
• OS: Windows 10
  
  
• NewEgg Link to laptop
  
  Additional Items in Package:
  Monitor: AOC 29 inch Ultrawide Monitor ($300+ New)
  This thing is amazingly huge. IPS Panel, great for graphic/photo work, tons of screen space.
  
  
• amazon link to monitor
  
  Headset: Astro A50 Wireless 7.1 Surround Sound headset ($299 new)
  
  
• amazon link to headset
  
  Keyboard: Logitech G710+ w/cherry MX Brown switches ($130 New)
  
  
• amazon link to keyboard
  
  Mouse: Logitech G700 Wireless Mouse ($99 New)
  
  
• amazon link to mouse
  
  Gaming Controller: Xbox 360 w/wireless dongle ($49 for controller new - 25 for dongle new)
  
  
• amazon link to controller
  
  
• amazon link to dongle

I think with the ram, you'd be better off going with 2 4gb sticks instead of 1, unless of course you were looking to upgrade to 64gb sometime in the near future.

Also, I don't know about that keyboard. I was looking into buying that one when I was building, but I remember after researching it a bit, it isn't all that great. There isn't very much to it that is actually gaming centered, aside from some keyboard caps and the light. If your on a tight budget, I went with the Logitech k120 which is inexpensive, and I'm just waiting to save up enough for a nice mechanical keyboard. I'm a pretty religious gamer, and the K120 has been doing me great for about a year now. I just don't think that the Sharkoon is worth the $30, when it isn't offering much.

Edit: I also agree with /u/MrGuydude19 that I don't know if you should be spending that much on speakers, when you're spending that much on a headset.

I have and like my Logitech G410 which fits all of your criteria. From logitech you will pay more than your budget but you can get it for cheaper via 3rd party. Its $70 right now on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Spectrum-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-920-007731/dp/B01645FHEI

I also really like and actually use my Drevo TKL more tho which is not RGB: https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506356645&sr=1-5&keywords=drevo But one of the main reasons I really like this keyboard isthat the F-keys are directly in line with the number keys.

Drevo also has a RGB option but it doesnt have the inline F-keys: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Water-Proof-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghost/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_15?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506356645&sr=1-15&keywords=drevo

Overall I use my drevo for the very specific reason of the in-line f-keys and its a feature I really value. However if this isnt important I would recomend the G410. But any of these listed keyboards wont steer you wrong.

Cheers!

Look into trackball mice. I started having symptoms of carpal tunnel syndrome and tried about 7 different mice. They ranged from vertical mice to trackball. I did try out the anker vertical, and found out it wasn’t helping with all of my strain issues. I ended up settling on a traditional trackball mouse. It’s admittingly a huge learning curve. It does take a good amount of time to get used to it, and efficient enough where you’re not “thinking” to not move the mouse around (you use trackball mice in the stationary position).

I started with the Logitech M570 and used that with a Wrist Rest from my second semester of grad school until I finished (this spring). I would still have some strain, and then the Logitech MX Ergo came out and I bought it. Instantly hooked. It’s best of both worlds with trackball and vertical. Little tidbit, BestBuy sells an exclusive variant that includes an extra piece that increases the mouse’s angle. I recommend getting that one as I can’t live without it. It’s called the MX Ergo Plus.

Like you, I was having searing pains in my wrist and up my forearm after a long day of using Rhino. Both 2D drafting, and 3D modeling. Switching to an ergonomic mouse, for me a trackball and “vertical-esque” model has saved me!

Good luck, and if you have any questions just let me know!

E:spelling

Well, I'm building a second Atreus, so that may be my favorite. I like it better for its portability factor, but the Let's Split is great for ergonomics (being able to put the halves at shoulder width is really nice). I think the two things that you get from a wasd over a corsair are build quality and configurability. The wasd is built with a steel plate, so there's no flex in the keyboard. And when I say configurability, that's a combination of the DIP switches on the back and the number of different switch types that they come in. Now, Cherry isn't the only switch manufacturer in the game, in fact, both of my customs use something else (Zealio and Kailh). There are other boards out there that may be less expensive and have just as good a typing experience as the CODE. My brother likes his Magicforce 68, but that didn't stop him from building a Let's Split, too!

Ninja edit: he doesn't have a Mac, but like /u/hingino said, every keyboard is a Mac keyboard, in reality.

Logitech G-400

Razer Deathadder

Steelseries Sensei

All of these are excellent mice, which one you want really comes down to personal preference. I like the deathadder, but I know other people who are more comfortable with the logitech design.

You also might want to take into consider a nice mouse surface if you don't already have one. I can tell you that the steelseries 9HD is pretty awesome if you're into hard pads.

I always go with EVGA for a couple of reasons, the main being customer service. They simply have the best, and stand by their products 100%. I will always pay more for quality and a company that wont jerk me around when something isnt right.

Your going to want to get a good tube of thermal compound do some research, there are tons out there and they are mostly the same stuff. Are you planning on overclocking your CPU? If not you dont need the K variant.

Everything else looks pretty good, except that keyboard. Dont get Razer, get a better mechanical keyboard for cheaper. The 'gaming' mechs are all over priced and dont really offer anything that others dont. For instance This is a significantly better keyboard than the chroma, and you dont have to deal with Razer's spotty reliability.

edit: this is also a great keyboard from a more main stream company: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Amazon reviews can be a good indicator. Out of 1,539 reviews (which is a lot for a mechanical keyboard), it gets 4.3 out of 5 stars. 65% are 5 stars and 15% are 4 stars. You may still want to check out the 1-star and 2-star reviews to see if any glaring problems come up. $86.50 seems like a good price for a board with Cherry browns. Link

The keeb in your ebay link is "Manufacturer refurbished: An item that has been professionally restored to working order by a manufacturer or manufacturer-approved vendor. This means the product has been inspected, cleaned, and repaired to meet manufacturer specifications and is in excellent condition. This item may or may not be in the original packaging. See the seller’s listing for full details." $58 seems like a great price if you trust the refurbishing process.

Keyboards:
Here's a Rosewill mechanical keyboard on sale for ~$65:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823201052

Tt eSPORTS MEKA mechanical for ~60:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823162015

Cooler Master CM Storm QuickFire Rapid (jesus) mechanical:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823129007

Razer Arctosa non-mechanical. ~45:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823114010

Mice:
Logitech G400:
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-High-Precision-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372086958&sr=1-2&keywords=g400

Razer DeathAdder 2013:
http://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Essential-Ergonomic-RZ01-00840100-R3U1/dp/B00AAS888S/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372086958&sr=1-8&keywords=g400

Logitech G500:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104318

Zowie AM Black:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24S0R61063
(apparently the best CS mouse, forged by FPS gods in a fire of overclocked CPUs, using a linux server as an anvil. Or something.)

I didn't do a very good job of keeping you under budget, especially since the Zowie is $86.99, but this is a quick list of some items you should at least look at. Consider being a little more flexible with the moolah; you can get a lot more quality for $130-40 than you can for $100.

Edit: I own and enjoy a Logitech G400. If you're looking for a personal endorsement, you have mine for that model. It's also under $50. If you spend $65 on a keyboard and buy the 400, that'll squeak in just under $115 and you'll have some nice gear. Not bad at all. Do your homework on the mechanical switches. I love the clicky blues, but they're extremely loud. In fact, they're as loud or louder than a normal speaking voice, which activates my microphone when I type. Other switch types have different characteristics, and are quieter.

> Did the person who thought charging an ability linked to 1 was a good idea ever tested using a keyboard? It is awfully restricting to hold 1 and move at the same time, holding any key above WASD requires an awkward hand positioning or... releasing some keys and losing mobility, something you can't afford doing when you are NOT A TANK or use a GamerTM mouse or a macro.

While I get where you're coming from, this has no effect on me at all, because I use a Nostromo. I suspect a fair number of people do (or have equivalents). You know all that "my hand cramps when wave dashing!" business? I don't experience that either. I don't want to be that guy, but a $60-70ish dollar purchase makes your life a lot more bearable in a lot of games, not just Warframe. Moving with your thumb instead of three fingers is god tier.

> Charge duration is VERY slow. You can literally kill anything with weapons faster than what it takes to charge that fireball, and -repeating myself- AoE is too small for it to be worth taking into account. And even then, I DO NOT want a flashy effect on abilities, abilities need to be USEFUL before they are "cool".

Have you tried cast speed to enhance the charge time? Legit question, I haven't played Ember yet. I'm still experimenting with Chroma. Also I'm betting the napalm effect should be scaling with range and duration, but currently doesn't. Consider how effective the fireball would be if you could drop a few around like remote Oberon damage fields.

Also, DE, if you're reading this: Ember gains bonus power strength for being on fire. Why not have her also gain bonus power strength from standing in fire? Like her own, not just environmental fire.

Welcome! As with all deep hobbies, take a breath and enjoy a day or two of research before committing to too much. Honestly, just clicking around here on new posts for a day or two, and then heading over to /r/mechmarket/ and just clicking every new listing is a fine way to get started. I link that mechmarket because I've found it invaluable in learning what's what, and you're almost guaranteed to find exactly what you want there over the next week or so.

To answer your question directly, just like alose said, a Leopold or Ducky One will be great. There are many options.

A cheap(er) option is the Magicforce. I got one to try out a blue switch keyboard and was surprised how nice it is. You can get it in white with brown switches on Amazon. $40. Search for Qisan brown switch or just use this Amazon link (no affiliate BS, just linking you.)

About gaming accessories, it really depends on what your budget is.
You can get a decent mouse for $30-50, but the "good" ones are probably closer to $100.

I don't have any specific recommendations for mice since I'm using an MMO mouse when I play Starcraft2, but it works pretty well for it. I wouldn't especially recommend it for playing SC2 though since it's relatively bulky and has A LOT of buttons that are kind of useless for SC2 out of the box. The Razer Deathadder is probably a better solution specifically and not all that expensive, although if money weren't an object I wouldn't mind having a Steelseries Xai Laser Mouse either. ;p

Keyboards, I'm using Steelseries' G6v2 (amazon link here) and have been quite satisfied with it so far. I hear a lot of people say good things about Filco keyboards and recommend them over the one I end up buying, but I don't know what specific model people are thinking of. Doing a search for Filco leads me to believe you'll be paying closer to $150 for one of their keyboards though.

Ultimately, have you asked this gamer what they may want? ;p

Always been a HUGE fan of gaming mice. I've always used Razer and recently a logitech gaming mouse. The key is the sensitivity settings and multiple buttons. You can assign two buttons to set the sensitivity up / down. So if you are streaming / digitizing and need nice slow movement you can set it for very low. Also the multiple buttons come in handy for assigning common tasks so you don't have to mess with the keyboard or moving the mouse away from you work.

Here are the two that I've been using with great pleasure.

Razer Orochi bluetooth mouse (it is small, but I really like it) http://www.amazon.com/Razer-Orochi-Mobile-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B00AAS88K6 5 programmable buttons. And on-screen display to show you what sensitivity stage you are. Which is helpful.

Logitech Wireless G700 http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Gaming-Mouse-G700/dp/B003VAM32E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414162387&sr=8-1&keywords=Logitech+Wireless+Gaming+Mouse+G700 I like how it fits my hand and there are more buttons than the Orochi. I think it has 9 programmable buttons.

I've never used a graphics tablet but can see how it could be useful. I do have a trackball mouse (Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball) because of a wrist injury. But it's just not the same. I find it to be a bit jerky and doesn't have the fluid, smooth movement of my gaming mice. http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-910-001799-M570-Wireless-Trackball/dp/B0043T7FXE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414162541&sr=8-1&keywords=trackball+mouse

Value mouse wise, a gpro wired + paracord + hyperglides is still cheap, and the g305 is also fantastic bang-for-your-buck. The new lightspeed wireless mice (g305, GPW) are indistinguishable from wired, latency wise. I also have the glorious odin on pre-order, and everything i've read from people that have gotten to test it indicates that it'll be a top-of-the-line mouse.

Value keyboard wise: the magicforce 60% is like a ducky without any of the bells or whistles for $40

If he doesn't have one already, a mechanical keyboard would be a great gift. They can be a bit pricey, but you can get one for ~100 dollars that is pretty decent; it'll making typing a much nicer experience. Specifically, I'd look for any keyboard which has "Cherry MX Brown" or "Cherry MX Blue" switches. The key switch determines how the keyboard feels, and how loud it is.

I have blues at home and browns for my keyboard at work and both options are solid. I prefer blues myself but they are loud, Browns feel similar but they don't have an audible click so they are much quieter.

Be wary of "like-mechanical" keyboard, that are basically just expensive membrane keyboard that try and mimic the mechanical feel.

Here are two pretty good options to get you started:

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503434727&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+k70

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tactile-High-Speed/dp/B009C98NPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503434740&sr=8-1&keywords=logitec+g710%2B

No you need more. You definitely need a PCB to hold all of the diodes, switches and mount the controller and usb female port. Here is what a blank PCB for handwiring looks like. With the amount of time it takes and price on all these little parts, it is not that much more to get a ready-to-go pcb, and it is a hell of a lot less head aches. Custom boards are expensive. If you want a semi-custom at a fraction of the price project. Get your ideal switches, and get a cheap board like this. Open it up, desolder the outemo switches, and throw the key caps in the trash. Resolder in your zealios or whatever you got. Get a good key cap set and you got yourself a sweet board for much less than what you are taking about.

I think the best thing about a custom is making a board with all the best parts with your ideal layout, which comes at a premium. If you're building a cheap custom, it will just be another "meh" board. Desolder/resolder switches of an already built board will get you further for cheap, and will be more ideal than cheaping out on all custom parts.

Honestly your choices are limited but you can still get a beginner board.

Go over the following link to get a better feel of the available boards:
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/buying_guide

Not sure if you wanted < TKL or > TKL but for that price, if my suggestion is that you go with a Magic Force 68. Never used it personally but it seems like the go to for budget boards. You'll be able to switch the keycaps and the case easily if that ever becomes your thing.

In any case, good luck with your search :)

For 'most' people, especially those new to the hobby, the go-to gaming switch seems to be mx blues. It really is extremely subjective though. Lots of people prefer quieter tactile switches or linears. Actuation weight varies a lot too. I personally prefer a heavier switch, so the first board I bought (which I'm still using) has mx greens (similar to mx blues, but heavier springs), and for my next board which I plan to custom build, I'm going even heavier and more clicky. I'll be spending a good bit more than $100USD on it though. Another big factor is size. Would you prefer a smaller board? How attached are you to your numpad? What about your FN row? Arrow keys? All things you have to decide before buying. If you just want something cheap, but decent, with mechanical switches to try, here is a very low cost "60%" (I'd call it more like 65% because of the arrow keys, but idk) sold on amazon, with good reviews.. This one has blue (tactile clicky) switches, but it comes in brown (tactile) and black (linear) varients as well. I really would recommend putting a bit more time into researching the different types of switches/ board sizes and maybe even invest in a switch tester from NovelKeys or make a post on /r/mechmarket asking if anyone has one with good, entry level switches they will sell you for cheap.

> hhkb2

WoW! that keyboard is like $300? I would recommend selling that, its not good for RTS Gaming

Why do you use a keyboard thats missing a lot of keys such as: numpad, F1-F12, capslock, and ~ is so far away! you know those are useful keys right?? F1,F2,F3= heroes, F10= menu, F11= ally resources, capslock can be swapped with backspace for easier access, and lets not forget about the arrow <- ^ -> keys which many people like using

pressing FN to access those keys is not useful for competitive gaming! just get a regular keyboard instead of buying a separate numpad... heres some better keyboards that you can actually program and customize yourself

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009C98NPY <--- 6 programmable buttons on left side (logitech #1)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSPGL9S <- multiple programmable layouts, side #s & swap-able

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076FTKD6F/?th=1 <-- totally custom layout, programmable, swap-able

you can also buy a mouse with extra buttons, a lot of people use the extra side buttons for hero, TP, tab, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KV1IMMU/ (i also recommend using wired m/kb, no batteries no delay)


Have you read the entire hotkey guide I sent you?? Why havent you setup the inventory on TYGH? its much better than using numpad and can do a lot more too (like I said before, swapping space and ctrl is just one example of what you can do if you setup the other hotkey editor) obviously you dont want to change ctrl but, on a normal keyboard its very useful

you should really just try testing out the inventory on TYGH, at least before buying another keyboard... let me know if you need help setting up AHK for inventory, you are on a Windows PC right?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002Q4U5DK

If you still want a nice Razer mouse, but with less buttons, there's this DeathAdder. It has blue LEDs, two side buttons, and is extremely comfortable. I've had it for a few months, its extremely nice, very worth the money.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A378L4C

As for a keyboard, this is the one I'll be getting soon. CM Storm Quickfire TK. Its compact, mechanical, blue LED backlit, and has Cherry MX Blue switches, which are supposed to be like heaven.

If you're really into macros, something like this might be good for you. I have enough macro keys on my keyboard (with multiple profiles, so it can be music controls or photoshop hotkeys), so I don't use anything like this myself, but if you're big on macros or hotkey usage, it could help.

For photoshop, my go-to is almost always getting a better drawing tablet... but that'll almost certainly require a higher budget and you might already have the best (or at least good enough). :P

i would order a switch tester like this one before buying a completely new keyboard, just so you can get a feel for what kinds of switches you like. i personally like cherry browns, but they are pretty easy to press, so you might find them too sensitive, too loud, or not tactile enough since you're coming from a standard rubber dome keyboard.

generally on this sub, gaming brand keyboards like corsairs and razers aren't recommended for various reasons. unless you're specifically in need of a white keyboard, you could find keyboards from other brands that offer much better value for your money, such as a ducky or an ikbc.

An alternative to the AK33 that might interest you is the E-Element Z-88. It has a very similar layout, but is slightly more standard (better aftermarket keycap compatibility) AND has hot swap switch sockets. Even though the sockets will only accept Outemu switches without modification, the good news is that newer Outemu switches are actually quite nice. I'm not a fan of clickies so I replaced the stock Blues with Purples and discovered a contender for my favorite switch in the process.

Not that I want to rob you of an opportunity to essentially build your own board, but in case you just wanted to get up and running with some customizability...

Anyhow, let us know what you end up with! Best of luck.

So, I've been trying to find a mechanical keyboard for when my silicone dies, but I'm kinda picky so this might be a bit over specific. Does anybody know of a good mechanical keyboard that has:

• Media keys (I can live without these if it has the others)
  
• 10-key
  
• Any switch besides black or red
  
• is back light (preferable with blue as an option)
  
• Isn't just the generic rectangle shape
  
  I like some character in my keyboards. This is the best I've found so far, and was wondering if anybody knows of something else that fits the bill.
  
  Thanks for any help in advance!

There are one-handed keyboards like the Logitech G13 that put your hand in instant reach of all the keys. You can map keys and create macros. There are other brands that are similar but the Logitech one just came to mind first. I've never used one but they seem like they could be very useful and comfortable. You would just want to make sure it it has enough keys for the game she's playing.

As others have mentioned. There are also mice that have a lot more buttons on them.

If you have money to burn, maybe try a Logitech G13: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE

I've never used one myself, but I helped a 1-armed FC mate when he was looking for something to replace his dead naga for his monk and that seemed like it might be a pretty decent solution. It has the added bonus of being useful still after you get out of the sling too.

Though it would be nice if anyone with one could chime up and say how well they work.

If you really want to craft, you can do what I did, knowing I'd need all crafts at 50 I raised them all simultaneously. I would go from 1 to 5, then 5 to 10, etc all the way to 50 with each job. Every 5 levels I'd craft myself a new HQ set of equipment for all jobs to use for the next 5 levels and convert the old set.

By the time I hit 50 on all jobs I was able to nearly max meld all my accessories from the converted materia I had leveling the jobs. I probably would have had enough if I had made new equipment the moment it was spirit bonded and converted it then...

I am probably very late for this but if you are buying a new keyboard get a mechanical. You can get some cheaper ones off amazon that still work great. Lighting is a lot of fun but to get RGB you are looking at a price tag of $100 and up, that said you can get a standard backlit for much cheaper such as this or somthing like this if you dont use the keypad. With mechanical keyboards you can change the keycaps to anything you like which is very cool, check out /r/mechanicalkeyboards for more on that.

Oh and there are different switches on different mechanical keyboards, they determin how hard the key is to press, if you hear a click, and if you feel a bump on actuation. The most common switches are MX cherry browns and MX cherry reds. Check this out for more info.

I realize i am most likely already too late but oh well

I have the Corsair K70 [non RGB] with Cherry MX red switches. If I were you I'd get a K70. My friend has the Razer Blackwidow with the custom Razer green switches. He loves it.

Before you buy a mechanical keyboard tho. You really need to try out each switch. You could either buy one of these to test it out, or you can go to a local computer store that has keyboards on show.
If you end up buying a mechanical keyboard without testing the switches out first. You may end up hating your keyboard.
Most people like the MX blues [the clicky ones].

I like the MX reds though because you can't feel a bump when you push down a key, and because they are pretty quiet [unless you bash your keyboard]

There are lots of mechanical keyboards on the market. You could go all out and get a Ducky keyboard or get a pretty cheap one like this one

If you want macros then you can go for a Corsair K95 which has 18 macro keys. If you want less macros then you can go for the Logitech G710+ which has 6 macros.

Just remember to try out each MX switch, and you should be good.

I have that third board, got it off MassDrop last year and I love it! It's my first board and I don't have many complaints. Solid construction, good finish, no dead LEDs after a year -- the keys are eggshell white and get dirty super easily and the polished edge of the board scratches super easy, but it's a great board otherwise. 9/10 do recommend. Here's my unboxing ftc

Edit: for those looking for a backlit version off of Amazon, heres the one I ordered with orange WASD/blue lights, here is a black body blue backlit version sold by the manufacturer and heres a silver body white light version. Heres an unlit version on prime day special for $35.

I really have only bought and used Eagletec keyboards as far as comparatively inexpensive keyboards go. I like boards with "blue" type switches in them for the "bump" when you type and of course the mechanical click. They may not be the best for gaming, though. Some people find the feedback and noise distracting. Any keyboard with Outemu switches in them should be similar, just depends on how much you want to pay and what style you want.

I bought one of these ($40) and I like it as much as keyboards I have paid much more for but you may personally like a different one. Read some reviews and find out about the differences between the different switch brands and colors to see what you may like. Or, just bite the bullet and buy a cheap board to see how it feels. Anyway, have fun!

I found a likely 20 year old Cherry keyboard in the electronics recycle bin at work today. It's got the old ML switches in it and the large 5-pin connector so I'll have to find an adapter to check it out. I hope it works, it's a nice solid old keyboard that doesn't even look used.

I ordered a cherry mx tester beforehand to get an idea, This one to be exact (but it doesnt have silent reds, so I didnt know exactly what I was getting).

I also think that browns feel very mushy - to be honest they feel like rubberdomes. Its not a very clear tactile feeling at all. So browns and their stiffer ones were out of the race.

I did like the feeling of blues, greens and the white ones, but as you said they produce a hell lot of sound. And since I'm playing next to my girlfriend she gets really really really pissed with loud keyboards.

So I kinda liked the the reds and blacks on the tester since they are very silent and feel really high quality (compared to browns for example). I thought about getting black ones but decided that my pinky finger might be too weak to play multiple hours of dota haha. So I was searching for red ones, then found the silent red ones.

I gotta say they feel amazing. A lot better than Reds with O-Rings while being a lot more silent at the same time. Sound whise they are not a lot louder than my Apple Wireless Keyboard - and that is the most silent keyboard I know. Of course I don't have hundreds of hours with it yet but I can clearly say that these are keepers. I'm thinking about ordering a second Pok3r board with these for work (as seen in the image - the RGB one will travel home with me tonight :)) - And I am pretty sure that I will go for Silent Reds once more.

I can do a sound test if you like?

I recommend the Logitech G400. It's like the G500, but with less bells and whistles, and a better sensor. If you must have programmable buttons, just go with the G500.

A good attempt at the 'best of both worlds' is the newer G400S, but I don't have any personal experience with it. As far as I know, it's just an improved version of the G400, with more features.

I think a 15 inch Asus F55 is a really good purchase at $530. It comes with excellent specs for the price, looks very sleek and is decently light to carry around at college. It also comes with a good battery life at 6+ hours, and it has a full sized keyboard with a number pad.

For a basic wireless mouse, I just use a Logitech M510 and would recommend it. It's good if you're looking for an average sized mouse. If you're looking for something smaller in your hand, an M325 would be good.

Getting a B board for a 7600k. Can't overclock, your overclockable CPU. Basically, you can save money getting a 7600, not K.. or spend a tiny bit more and get a Z270 board.

This memory EVGA SuperSC is GSkill Ripjaws rebranded for retail contract purposes. Cost about $12 less, and is the same.

As for cases, I am a big thermaltake fan for cases. I use the Core V71, but the Core V31 - $70 and Core V51 - $90 are great choices. Lot's of room for air flow. They nicknamed the V71 the refrigerator.

For Mouse and Keyboard. Corsair Strafe is great and affordable. For Mice I always use Mionix NAOS.. the feel of that mouse is insanely comfortable.

I was skeptical at first, but I love my trackball now. Logitech M570 all day. My hand is much more comfortable during extended usage. I just wish I didn't need the stupid usb adapter....

Well, I personally usually use a controller when playing on the tv, but still play FPS and some other games with K/M from the couch.

Have a couch/chair with a decently-sized armrest? Put a fabric mouse pad over that thing. Bam, you now have a curved mouse-friendly and couch/chair-friendly mouse surface with an armrest. This may take a small amount of getting used to.

For keyboard, I'm comfortable enough just having it on my lap, but you could always spring for something like this, too.

Good luck!

I love my E-Elements Z-88 75%, great RGB keyboard with (mostly) standard keycaps. Get it with the blue switches (Outemu) and you'll be in clicky heaven. Great entry level price, 2 day shipping via Amazon, and smaller form factor. Trust me, you won't miss the numpad.

https://www.amazon.com/E-Element-Water-Proof-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghost/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493142214&sr=8-2&keywords=z-88

Really if you do some research and buy half of your parts used you could save some good money. Thats what I did. I got my ram, case, motherboard and power supply used from ebay/craigslist and hard drive refurbished from the manufacturer. Saved some serious money.

Then I got a 360 controller and wireless all-in-one keyboard like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-920-003070/dp/B005DKZTMG

So when I'm tired of being on the computer I just watch tv or play other games there, and use that keyboard to type quicker.

And if you're a fellow pirate its easy to download whatever movies you want straight into it :)

Another cool thing to do is have a local shared folder between your computer/laptop and the media pc to toss movies and other media in there as well as other files.

I use the G13 ( http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE ) and got it on sale a 6 months back on amazon for $40. I would say it is worth it, especially for the use case scenario. Every key is programmable and the software is pretty easy to use. I have it programmed to do every hots (or all of the main ones) and still have multiple keys not used. Also it has 'profiles' that you can save so you can easily switch between fps games, moba, ect with the switch of a button. (also has built in memory so you can use it on multiple computers and use the saved profiles)

I'm not sure I would pay $60 for it, but $40 was too good to pass up. I am happy with my purchase and would recommend in lieu of a full size keyboard. (Although now I am looking to add a mechanical keyboard to my setup and use the g13 as my travel 'keyboard')

>Other necessary items such as a legal copy of Windows

I'll assume they want windows and a legal copy for that matter /r/microsoftsoftwareswap

>a good M+KB or controller

Assuming they don't already have some lying around, you can pick up cheap M+KB pairs, here or here or like this or like this or cheaper or slightly more expensive ones like this or this.
Or (if you can) go to your local shop and pick up a cheap pair for $5 each (and that's here in Australia).
And all of that's also assuming you want it brand new.

A controller isn't necessary, but if they really want them, assuming you want new and analog sticks, this or this would suffice.

>Even miscellaneous things like cables, filters

They come with the gear you buy, GPU's come with the needed output cable (whether that be DVI/VGA/HDMI/DP) even then, local shops have them for a couple dollars...except DP which is expensive for some reason. PSU always comes with it's own cables and filters come with the case as well.

>mouse-pad

You can pick up a nice cheap one for a dollar (or less if you're that desperate)

>thermal paste, zip-ties

Already on your CPU fan, which comes with your cpu, unless you buy it second hand or buy a (very expensive) high end one. Zip-ties are an unnecessary optional item (cases these days have notches etc for cables and even then you don't "need" them) that cost a dollar for 100.

ive only had my logitech m510 for a short while now but its pretty comfortable, wireless, and seems pretty durable as ive dropped it repeatedly and still works great and its 30$

My new work keyboard is a Corsair mechanical. I think it's this model (http://www.corsair.com/en-us/k70-lux-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-red-led-cherry-mx-red-na), but I'd recommend one of their keyboards that don't have a textured spacebar as that's quickly driving me up a wall. The keys themselves are responsive and surprisingly quiet.

The keyboard I've had forever was a basic Microsoft Multimedia keyboard, but if you want something with some more bells and whistles Logitech all the way. My old roommate gave me two G15s when she upgraded to mechanicals, and I've been rocking one ever since. I keep the other in the closet as a backup in case this one ever dies, but I doubt it will. It looks like the spritual successor is the G710 mechanical (http://www.amzn.com/B009C98NPY), with the G105 being a non mechanical, and thus way cheaper variant (http://www.amzn.com/B00BBUCCKO).

I also recommend their mice. The G400 I have at work and the G500s at home have consistently been one of the most comfortable models I've used. It looks like they no longer make those models, but the general shape of it seems to be the current G403 (http://www.amzn.com/B01KUAMCV4) or M500 (http://www.amzn.com/B002B3YCQM).

If you have $200 to spend on XKeys, get XKeys. From what I have heard, everything they make is really solid.

When I first started doing a lot of off-line programming, I did not have that kind of money laying around. So I made this out of a cheap keyboard and some white keyboard stickers. I also put a lot of extra functions on the keys too. For instance "B" is Label, "Shift B" is Block, and "Alt B" is Beam Pallette. The writing has to be tiny but it does help you remember the other functions of different keys.
It is far from perfect but at less than a tenth of the cost of an XKeys, it is a great deal. I have happily pre-programmed many shows with this setup.

Make sure you use the Harmony software, if you can. It makes integration of multiple devices that much easier. Also, be sure to check you have the latest version the Flirc software.

You probably aren't going to be too satisfied with remote interaction on webpages; it's do-able, just not a great user experience.

Binding direction keys on the remote and single / double click actions will do almost everything on a PC. You can also just create shortcuts to shut down the system, though turning on the PC could not be done via Flirc since the Flirc would be plugged into a powered-down PC.

If you're looking for a more interactive HTPC environment, a wireless keyboard touchpad combo might better fit the bill:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG

Another alternative is something like Unified Remote:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Relmtech.Remote&hl=en

You install resident software on the PC, and then you can control / emulate any function on your phone or tablet.

I know that feeling :-) (both of running out of room, and wanting to expedite the process).

I switched to using a Logitech G-13 for all my shortcuts when working with a drawing tablet, best $39 I ever spent. (Set an alert using camelcamelcamel for a sub-$40 price, and you'll get an email the next time it goes on sale). 1/3rd the width of a keyboard, with 22 keys (plus buttons and a 4-way joystick w/ click, so really 29 assignable keys, with 3 "pages" of shortcuts easily accessible) that can each be assigned anything from a single key, multi-key press (with timings), blocks of text, mouse operations, and more - not to mention, it's ergonomically designed and perfectly shaped to reach all those with a left hand.

But yeah, no moving between "Layers" in Illustrator. What you CAN do, however, is use the "Select Next Item Below" and "Select Next Item Above" shortcuts (CTRL+ALT+[ and CTRL+ALT+], respectively). It will cycle through your objects, and even go from one layer to the next, if it reaches the last object in a given layer.

That may have been what you were looking for to begin with, since objects/items in Illustrator are really analogous to Layers in Photoshop.

Sorry if i missed your original intention! :-)

-[odmg]

Have it hooked onto my TV downstairs on wifi internet while my computer is wired using an ethernet cable, works amazing. Add on something like this to help navigate websites faster and a Xbox controller and I have a perfect set up to play steam games and watch online sports streams.

Games on the link is fine as long as it's not a game that requires super low input lag. I can't play like CSGO or Rocket League on it.. But any single player/casual game is great - Fallout 4, Witcher 3, Binding of Isaac, Enter the Gungeon are all fine.

Hi, so this is going to be a tough one...the price range you provided is very low. Personally, I don't own anything that is of that price range but I have heard that for a cheap beginner board that is decent quality the Magicforce 68 by Qisan is a pretty good board.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0

​

If you're willing to spend a little more:

​

Anne pro 2: https://www.amazon.com/Anne-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B07M66R9DG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=anne+pro+2&qid=1562175943&s=electronics&sr=1-2

​

Ducky one 2 Mini: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4322

​

Best of luck!

I've had a Corsair Strafe RGB for a few years and have liked it, but am realizing I don't really use any of the extra features (the software to set custom lighting is a major pain, and keeping lights on seems to produce a light buzzing noise in my headphones so I've just been keeping it off). Also, for the first time in 20+ years, I spilled a little onto the keyboard - was working fine until I removed the spacebar to wipe it up and replaced it, then it had a problem spamming space for a while (unplugged and left it for the night), then briefly holding another key, but seems like it works fine now.

 

ANYWAY: Magicforce 68 or Plugable from the buying guide, any suggestions? I don't care at all about a backlight and realistically I don't think I need the tenkey. The Magicforce one does look a bit silly but pictures with replaced keycaps look pretty nice. Open to pretty much anything, those two just looked like great value

Mionix Naos 7000. Great mouse, used it for years.

https://www.amazon.com/MIONIX-Multi-Color-Ergonomic-Optical-Gaming/dp/B00HGKQ6VY

PMW-3310 sensor so almost the best sensor out there, it's a little heavier than the super gamer light mice at 147g (that's still fairly light overall and is just the weight including the cable, which the g303 you ahve is 137g with cable) but it has the ergonomic shape you are looking for and the rubber surface is great in keeping you from sweating and giving you better grip for lifts.

Das keyboards get some flak for being overpriced, but at $60 this is a pretty good deal. Now that they have apparently sold out, see below for some alternatives.

EDIT: if you search for Das on /r/mechanicalkeyboards you'll find lots of people talking about how Das keyboards have declined in quality recently and some controversy about the software for one of their new models (not this KB) being Windows only. The keycaps Das uses are also said to be low quality. These issues aside, I personally think this is a good deal. If you are in the market for a full size mechanical keyboard, it's hard to find a better keyboard for the price. Some alternatives that are better but more expensive:

• $80: iKBC CD108 w/ MX Clear Switches
  
• $90 for full-size, $80 for tenkeyless: Cooler Master MasterKeys S
  
• $40, but 60% layout not full-sized: Magicforce68
  
  EDIT 2: as /u/SolixTanaka pointed out below, the Magicforce keyboards have questionable quality control. It's probably not fair to say they are better than Das keyboards. Some users love them and have no problems, others find their board crapping out after a few months (or sooner). Buyer beware. I like them because they are a cheap way to try out a 60% layout if that's something that interests you but you're unsure if you'll like it.

You can pick up reliable rubber dome boards for less than that. Save the money and put it towards a keyboard you'll love.

Not the dream keyboard, but the one that you love to use until you can justify the dream keyboard.


Reliable rubber domes: One two


Save to buy one of these: One two


Tell yourself that one day you'll pick up one of these: cherry 6.0

Or maybe something else is the dream keyboard.

I installed the Netflix Windows 8 application and XBMC.

I then installed OblyTile and created a custom large button at the Start menu/tile interface for XBMC (needed to customize the tile with the XBMC logo, but wasn't tough). I also added the Netflix tile right next to it, large as well.

I installed Chrome (browser of choice) and created two smaller tiles that were links to bookmarks in Chrome, YouTube and Google Music.

Change the background of the Start/tile interface to something dark with a little bit of a pattern. Looks very clean and crisp.

I use a Logitech K400 right now. I have a Logitech 650 and Flirc I want to finish setting up, but I haven't had the chance to tinker with that aspect yet.

Overall, Windows 8.1 and XBMC + Netflix works really well. The Netflix app is stellar and XBMC keeping XBMC full screen (hitting "\") and just hitting the Windows button to get out of it/go to Netflix is very smooth and user friendly. I prefer it over the Apple TV and my Ouya by far.

And I built it with the very affordable Intel NUC DN2820FYK, which accepts 2.5" HDs.

I do, at least for a lot of games. I still stick to the desk when playing FPS games but I use the TV a lot, also. I use PS3 controllers with a cheap USB bluetooth dongle and the SCP Toolkit drivers, a long HDMI cable I switch between my monitor and my TV as needed (considering getting a DVI cable to just have them both hooked up but honestly switching the HDMI isn't a big deal for me), and if I need to use a mouse/keyboard from the couch I got a Logitech K400 from Micro Center for $20.

That setup works great for me, honestly. I did experiment with using another PC for Steam streaming but latency over wi-fi was always too big of an issue so IMO the long HDMI cable works better.

I own a Boxee Box, 1st Gen AppleTV running crystalbuntu (Linux w/ XMBC + CrystalHD/1080p support) and a little set-top PC running Plex.

Here is my consensus.

Easiest:

If you primarily want to watch streaming content like Netflix, Vudu movie rentals, and other various content from the web, the boxee is a real winner. It organizes and helps you locate content from around the web and puts it into and easy to use 10ft interface. The keyboard isn't backlit which is annoying, and the interface can slow down a bit during load.

I've also found that every once in a while it needs a reboot just because. (Especially after a larger movie like 1080i)
Also, Boxee Box sucks for large high quality files. It locks up with 1080p .ts files, (or at least takes 1-4minutes to load) and lots of .mkv files make it cry/slideshow. Most content on the web is 720p or less.

Moderate skills:

If you primarily watch video content that you have downloaded, a set-top pc is (IMO) the winner. You can put in hardware that can actually handle 1080p without croaking. Your selection of input devices is much, much larger, and you don't have to worry about something coming out that your device can't support.

The other advantage is that you can set up that set-top pc to be your media downloading/storing device. Transmission, Sabnzbd+ w/ Sickbeard + Couchpotato + Headphones can automate the entire process and give you what amounts to an internet based DVR (With music too.) You could even install Subsonic and serve the music to your phone to stream while you're away.

Tech savvy:

If you watch mostly local content, but also want to be able to rent stuff easily, a 1st gen AppleTV with crystalbuntu is the best/cheapest solution. You can pick up a used ATV for around $50 on craigslist and get a CrystalHD card for ~$40. This will handle 1080p files for less than $100 as long as you have some technical know-how and a free usb stick >4GB (Or don't mind formatting the internal HDD) You can even remove the USB stick and boot into ATV to use their rental service for instant access to films giving you a sort of "Best of both worlds"

Of course, with all it's strengths, a set-top PC/Hacked ATV requires you to build/install/configure/modify all of it. For many people, that alone is the killer feature of a boxee box.

If you're looking on the budget end, these keyboards will all be on sale tomorrow:

• Velocifire VM01 Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Outemu Brown Switches 104 Keys LED Illuminated Backlit Anti-ghosting Keys (Black)
  
• MechanicalEagle Z-77 Multicolor Backlit 87 Keys Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Blue Switches DIY Replaceable Switches - Black
  
• Mechanical Keyboard Gaming Keyboard Brown Switch 68-Keys Mini Design (60%) Gaming Wired Keyboard White Silver Magicforce by Qisan
  
• EagleTec KG010 Gaming / Industrial / Office Mechanical Keyboard With LED Backlit 104 Key (Black)
  
  The first 2 are pretty regularly posted on this sub. The 3rd is highly recommended on /r/MechanicalKeyboards as a good budget board (though the more expensive Gateron keys are preferred). I'm not familiar with the 4th, but it looks like it could be the same as a MechanicalEagle with a different badge.
  
  Here is a link that finds all of those keyboards except the Qisan (#3), which is filed under "Electronics" and "Video Games > Accessories" rather than "Computers & Accessories". It should also keep populating in case more keyboards show up, since deals are only posted 24 hours in advance. You should be able to change the price range, but I don't remember seeing any mechanical keyboards for $50+. You can also "Watch" the deals from that link so you are notified when they go live.
  
  Hope this helps, and good luck finding a board!

I have the Mionix NAOS 7000. I absolutely love it and would recommend it to anybody for the following reasons:

• Fits in your hand amazingly well
  
• Has a great surface coating, slightly rubbery, but perfectly smooth
  
• Full 16.8 million color RGB
  
• Flawless sensor with no accelleration
  
• Replaceable/exchangeable key switches to suit your preference
  
  The Mionix website does a much better job selling it.
  
  Seriously, get this mouse.

• Case: ARK PN-06 Black With Power Supply $24.99 Shipping $12.99
  
• Motherboard: ASUS M5A78L-M LX PLUS $39.99 $5.99
  
• Processor: AMD FX 4100 $102.29 Free Shipping
  
• RAM: Crucial Ballistix 4GB $22.99 Free Shipping
  
• HDD Maxtor 500GB 7200RPM $34.51 Shipping: $5.49
  
• Graphics Card: Ati 4870 Sapphire 512GB $45.95 Shipping $5.99
  
• OS: Windows 7 Home Premium $99.99 Free Shipping
  
• DVD Drive: LG DVD Drive $20 Free Shipping
  
• Keyboard: Logitech Keyboard $12.09 Free Shipping
  
  This is a build for $430 (With shipping) if you can increase your budget at all?

Xim4 is pretty sweet, buy a used one on ebay for around $100, maybe even less, and if you don't get on with it, it seems to hold its resale value pretty well. I got lucky and found a new G-13 for $30 on ebay and use the mini joystick on it for movement with my thumb because I never got on with using WASD for movement.

Using a mouse for aiming is superior and the ability to map keys frees your fingers up to do things you couldn't normally do without purchasing an elite or scuff type controller or using some unorthodox grip on a stock controller. You'll be a cod god, Halo 5 is kinda meh, but still pretty decent.

That said, a lot of the xim community seem to think it isn't cheating but I can't deny it gives you a large advantage even over people using expensive aftermarket controllers and it is banned for use in most competitive cod leagues.

If you want to get him into two-handed games, you may want to consider getting something like the Logitech G13. It's a one-handed keyboard where you would use the WASD keys as normal but you can program the thumbstick to control the mouse and map 18 other keys.

Haven't used one personally so I'm not 100% sure about the quality,(or if there's a better model/brand), but I've heard that it works pretty well for disabled PC gamers. To my knowledge you should be able to play pretty much any game with it.

A good place to start looking would definitly be the board wiki
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/wiki_navigation

My suggestion would be to first find the size you want - full size, 60%, 75, planck etc.

Next find the type of switch you would like - cherry mx? Gateron? Topre? Dont know any of these - try to order a switch tester to see which one you like:
https://www.amazon.com/Akwox-Cherry-Switch-keyboard-Sampler/dp/B01GZHU1EG

Then find the things you would like on your keeb - LED's? Media Buttons? None of these?

Look at some popular keeb companies, see which one is right for you:
Leopold
Pok3r
HHKB
TADA
Varmilo

• some to get you started
  
  
  TLDR;
  Find switch you like > Find board size you like > Find cap layout you like > Find Caps you like > Find artisans you like > Cry because you have no more money

If you're on a budget like I was, Coolermaster peripherals are amazing. I recently upgraded from a really sketchy $20 chinese kb/m set to the $30 CM Storm Devastator kb/m combo, it's fantastic. I love how the keys are raised, almost like a mechanical style. And the backlighting on such an inexpensive set is impressive. I could never really justify myself spending hundreds of dollars on peripherals so I definitely appreciate CM's offering.

Yes, it isn't perfect "yet" where you can control everything easily without a keyboard and mouse but simply get a wireless mouse/touchpad combo like this and you should be good.

Might have to google some guides on like getting your PC to turn on from controller turning on and boot into Steam Big picture and you should be good.

There is also solutions like steam link and Nvidia's version of it which work fine.

I use a Red Dragon Perdition Gaming mouse. It has 5 programmable profiles which I have configured for different programs (Inventor, Rhino, Solidworks, Illustrator, CorelDraw). I have the 12 button programmed to switch profiles and each profile can have a different color from the internal LEDs (Helps tell which profile I'm in)

I also have a Logitech G13 Gamepad. It has awesome software which automatically switches profiles based on which program is active. It has 3 quick swap buttons to completely change the layouts in each program, 25 keys per layout. I've programmed keys/macros for all my commonly used tools.

I still have a regular keyboard. Ctrl+Z/Ctrl+Shit+Z (Undo/Redo) is too natural to me, plus other basic commands but I can quickly jump over to the G13 for commands that would require 2 hands on the keyboard and keep my right hand on the mouse.

I have a Waccom Bamboo pen tablet and I've found that touch is in as accurate as a mouse for 3D manipulation. With LClick+Drag, RClick+Drag, MiddleMouseButton+Drag, LRClick+Drag & Scroll Wheel and control all your major 3D view manipulations. A touch pad requires a second hand button press to achieve the same results. Believe me I've tried and mouse + keyboard + gamepad beats the socks off of anything I've found. It's great never having to click drop down menus.

Add in AutoHotKey to run macros/automate and you can model/draft w/o ever looking from the screen.

I'd be interested to hear other people's setups.

Eagletec KG010.

The switches are custom, but have a feel and sound similar to Cherry Blue switches. (Meaning loud and clicky!)
It has aluminum and ABS construction and ten levels of brightness. It's minimalist and classy, but has the full keyboard with the number pad and everything.
It's a great "entry" mechanical keyboard, but in my opinion it is good for those who have been in the game for a while, too.

Oh, and it's 40 bucks.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $182.95 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus H97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $99.00 @ Amazon
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $38.50 @ Amazon
Storage | Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $42.66 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon R9 380 4GB SOC Video Card | $229.99 @ Amazon
Case | Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ITX Mini ITX Tower Case | $69.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $85.95 @ Amazon
Monitor | Acer S220HQLAbd 21.5" 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard | $9.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G402 Wired Optical Mouse | $43.00 @ Amazon
Speakers | Logitech S120 2.3W 2ch Speakers | $15.00 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | ~$1006.50
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-13 16:43 EDT-0400 |
Comes in a little over 1k, but I included keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, etc. Things you may already have, or have extras of. Mini-ITX check, SSD, check, Windows 10, check (they come in USBs now so no need optical drive). Modular PSU so you can actually fit all your parts in easily. GPU should be able to handle most games satisfactorily. CPU should handle most tasks well. GLHF

I had success browsing ebay for a laptop with a cracked screen. I just had to make sure that the laptop screen wasn't so bad that I couldn't windows (to make sure I could change settings to recognize the tv being plugged in) and make sure the laptop had hdmi output. I ended up with a nice hp for just over $100.

It now has xbmc, hot keys to hulu, netflix, torrent sites/client, and I have a vpn (private internet acces, ~$40/year). Soon I'll have Aereo to replace USTVnow that I have setup on xbmc. I bought this keyboard/mouse to make browsing easier. My wife and I are very happy with this setup and never have any sort of issue. The only other thing I buy is NHL Gamecenter to watch on my ps3 (although if there is a similar work around to this as there is NFL games, I'd gladly drop it).

Here's my setup:

I've had a 360 for a long time but usually did PC gaming for RTSes, etc. The new consoles were so disappointing that I was planning on keeping my 360 longer. Then Steam Machines were announced and I thought they were ok, but then my 360 kept showing me stuff for Justin Beiber's new album and I was like, I want a gaming machine, not this.

Plopped a GTX760 in my Windows PC and then built a SteamOS box, almost exactly what /u/StevenBogda posted. I am currently streaming games to my living room, as native titles come out I'll just upgrade the box in the living room, but a GTX750Ti in it is a nice low power card that will hold its own for a while.

Some things to remember:

• It's still beta, but there are multiple updates a week, so it's getting there.
  
• You still need a keyboard occasionally, I got this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9996LA/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• I don't really do KB/mouse gaming on it, I still do that in my office, but for chilling on the couch there are tons of controller friendly games on Steam, it's usually not an issue for me.
  
• You don't need the kb as much anymore, in Big Picture Mode on Steam you can hit Xbox button and A and you can control the mouse and right trigger is enter, this covers just about every splash screen launcher thing. For some games they support passing something like "-nosplash", which is easy to input in Steam so it's faster to launch the game.
  
• The one bummer is the lack of sports games, I really miss NHL hockey.
  
  Also, it's obviously more expensive to have 2 machines to game on, but I am getting 1080@60fps streaming to my living room AND get to run all my old games; the XBone is struggling to do 1080p at all and doesn't have any backward compatibility. You could just do it with Windows 8 and Steam and be fine.
  
  I can't imagine ever going back to a console. I ended up getting $200 for the 360 and all my games, which let me buy PC versions of the games on Steam and they look amazing on PC.

I don't have a lot of desk space so I needed a stationary mouse and ended up with one of these Logitech M570(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043T7FXE/). I have it velcro'd to the right side of my MPK261. It fits perfectly and doesn't inhibit the use of the faders. It's a good mouse if you like track ball mice. Great for cramped spaces. Works really good for my situation.

Edit: Worth mentioning: It is always turned on and gets really long battery life.

Comfortable couch alternative to keyboard + mouse?

Been using an XBox 360 controller, which works fine for many games but I can feel the handicap on first person shooters whenever I play someone who needs to actually aim with precision.

Do people enjoy the steam controller for FPS? Something like this gameboard better?

This is amazing. I was going to update it to include that the 700 was without the monitor so this works out. I just have a few questions about the build:

1. Is it worth it to upgrade to the i5-6600 for $40 more? Would this make a big difference in terms of editing maybe or gaming?
   
2. I was leaning towards the GTX 1060. I know it's high in demand right now, but would there be more availability in a month? But if I was able to get it, what's the price difference and is it worth it over the RX 480? Also which brand because there are a lot.
   
3. For the monitor I was thinking the HP Pavilion 21.5-Inch IPS LED HDMI VGA Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015WCV70W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JHsMxb3JVZAPX
   I'm not sure what the big differences are or if there are any. I think that the HP aesthetically looks nicer
   
4. Is this a solid keyboard? For some reason the way it's designed, it's look really cheap and kind of over the top. My friend has a Cooler Master Devastator - LED Gaming Keyboard and Mouse Combo Bundle (Blue Edition) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKXXAAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AstMxbMHYQ6GA that he said he would sell to me for $10. Idk too much a out keyboards so as long as it looks simlle and works well, I'm happy.
   
5. Do you think a wireless card is necessary? I'm not sure if I'll have access to Ethernet(probably will).
   
6. My old gaming laptop has two 512GB hard drives. Would it be smart to snag one of them? Is it possible to attach it to this computer?
   
   EDIT: Aesthetically

So this is a good question. For my movement and abilities, I use this:
Logitech G13
My mouse is a Razer Naga Epic.

Both were basically intended to play WoW.
I'm left handed. I used to use my left hand for mouse and right hand for movement (using the numpad). I've been a console guy for the last 10 years or so, but when my son started playing PC games, I switched to right hand so we didn't have to mess with the bindings as often. It was WoW, so it wasn't a big deal. It's been a little more tricky in OW, but not so much that I've considered switching back to lefty.

Anyway, you are correct that I'm using a stick for my movement, but I'm using a mouse for aiming. It's set at 1600 dpi and 3.1 in-game sensitivity. There's no acceleration enabled and the windows setting is at 6. It gets me a 360 in about 25.5 cm which is about the width of my mousepad. I actually lowered the sensitivity in the last week to try and increase my overall accuracy. I think you are probably correct that I don't have much "snap" but part of that is that I have been consciously trying to avoid the sporadic, jerky movements I was getting at higher sensitivities.

My intent was to work on accuracy with the lower sensitivity and then increase it as time passed to allow more rapid target acquisition. Think I should try something else?

Something like this would be cool as hell, but I think looking for it to be built into the game is the wrong approach. There are plenty of gaming mice (mouses?) and keyboards available with custom programming software that can handle this better than ArenaNet could.

Just imagine a Tuesday game update that breaks the F1 keybind for all Mesmers, and they can't fix it until Friday. I will go ahead and confess that I'd be cheering in PvP lobby! But for everyone else this would be devastating. UGH! >:O

Those interested may want to check out Logitech's line of... meese, particularly the G600 MMO mouse. It has a third mouse button on the far right - the "G" key - that enables you to change the functionality of all the other buttons. For example, let's say you have the 1 - 5 buttons on the side of the mouse bound to your F1 - F5 skills. You could set it up so that when you press and hold the G key those 1 - 5 buttons instead correspond to 5 of your mounts. Release the G key and you're back to your F-skills. There are a lot of great possibilities.

The same is true for keyboards, though a nice gaming keyboard with single key customization is hella expensive, you can get a small macro pad for pretty cheap. I have a Logitech G13 keypad - which I did not buy for $299 - that is great for this purpose. You can get it used for cheap on eBay. I also have a Max Falcon 8 keypad that I use for mass copy-pasting at the office, but it's a pain in the ass to program. Recently I've been looking at Koolertron's keypad on Amazon as an upgrade.

Good luck!

Here's some from Amazon:

• Poker 3 - $130 great board with an aluminum case already.
  
• Poker 2 - $90 no aluminum case but you could order a custom one online that suits your liking for about $50.
  
• Qisan Magicforce - $40 super affordable keyboard. With or without LEDs.
  
• Vortex 75 - $150 great board to consider with an aluminum case if you don't mind a 75%.

I could really use this Mouse.. I don't have a mouse, well, won't anymore after Austin gets his PC fixed. This would be perfect for my hand, its blue, its almost like its a perfect fit. Thank you for the contest. :-) Hello, Goodbye~

I'm in the states as well, and Amazon is the place to go for me. They've got everything.

For cases, I really like C4 Labs' cases, especially the black-and-clear Zebra line.

For a power supply, you're probably going to want one that is 5V/2.1A -- any less and you might run into power issues, so it's better to be on the safe side. Some of my Pis (like my Pi Zeros) run well simply connected to a USB port on my computer, other Pis (like my Pi 2) do not. This is most likely due to those particular USB ports only putting out ~1 amp or so.

You'll also want an HDMI cable probably, and for this, I would recommend going away from Amazon and trying out monoprice.com -- they've got good, cheap cables galore, though you can probably also find a decently-priced HDMI cable on Amazon as well.

I use the Logitech K400 keyboard for my Pis and it works well, too. Good battery life. Some keys are laid out a little weird, so I find myself hitting "Backspace" when I want to type a backslash a lot of times -- it takes a bit of getting used to, but it's small enough to work on and doubles as a good media center remote as well.

For a camera, you're going to be limited to the "official" Raspberry Pi camera, but USB cameras work well with some programs too.

Oh don't worry about it, I enjoy helping people, ask away.

I just went with mechanical because that's what most gamers I know use. I haven't tested any membrane switches other than the ones I've used at home for work, but I can tell you the keyboard I have now is wonderful. I recommend either going to a local computer store, Best Buy, Fry's, Microcenter, and trying out their keyboards, or buying something like this. Not sure if they have switch testers for membrane switches though. And you gotta remember even if two different keyboards use the same exact switch, they can still feel a little different. It's all up to feel and personal preference. You could be an outlier and prefer membrane switches for gaming.

Magni 2 Uber basically replaced by Magni 3 btw. Also, Hifiman HE400i somewhat superceded by Massdrop's HE-4XX which I think have a more comfortable looking headband (i have the HE400i and dont like the headband). iDSD Micro BL is awesome btw in case u havent heard it yet. Also if u want a TKL brown switch keyboard may i recommend considering Velocifire TKL01 from Amazon if you are interested in a cheap alternative, its what I use at work. https://smile.amazon.com/Mechanical-Velocifire-TKL01-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01MS8YTYX/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510768682&sr=8-1&keywords=velocifire+tkl

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Built-In-Multi-Touch/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418788478&sr=8-1&keywords=k400r

Its a great keyboard with a good all around touchpad. Its a decent size as well. Its around 2/3 the size of most standard keyboards. Its from logitech and uses the unifying connector via usb, so it dosent drain your battery with bluetooth. Since it uses the unifying connector, you can also connect your choice of logitech wireless mice using the same connector. I'm pretty happy using the http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Zone-Touch-Mouse-Windows/dp/B0093H4VBU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418788773&sr=8-1&keywords=t400 when im not traveling. However, when i am, the touchpad works well.

E-Element z88. I’ve had it for about a year, it’s great. Not sure of the switches but I’m pretty sure they come in Outemu blues, reds or browns. Great keyboard for about 40 bucks. It comes with rgb so that’s a bonus, and on top of that you don’t have to solder to change the switches. You can find it here

A 2GB 6950 will be a bit faster for about the same price. You can get a modular rebadged Seasonic for about $70 after rebate and promo code.

If you have Shoprunner (you can get a free 30-day trial), then you can save $35 by getting a slightly smaller Asus monitor.

I would recommend using the savings from those two items to purchase an aftermarket CPU cooler, such as the Hyper 212+, Corsair A50, or Corsair A70 if it has a decent rebate. You won't be able to take full advantage of an unlocked 2500 without one.

Lastly, I'd get an optical mouse instead. It tends to track better, and it doesn't require a hard mat pad. The Deathadder is a popular choice.

I have that keyboard and I think it's pretty good, though :) The Logitech G110 is another popular choice, but I was turned off by its one-year warranty. You'll want to disable the X4's Caps Lock key, though, because it's not spaced away from the "A" like normal.

I'm looking for my second mechanical (First was a Razer Blackwidow lol) , I've been without one for almost half a year now, and I think it's about time haha.

I'll be be using it almost exclusively for gaming, and I want to avoid clicky switches (too noisy), I think I've pretty much decided on Browns (I don't want to wait for a Tester kit, so I'm going with the safest, most similar switch to the blue)

as a side note, are some keyboards capable of changing out the types of switches inside of them?


How is this keyboard? https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E8KO2B0

The low price is appealing, but at the same time I'm concerned about the quality. Otherwise it seems perfect.

another option is this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823201083

It's on sale, but I could do without the numpad to make some room


Are there some other great options I should be looking at too?

Might I suggest getting her a trackball instead? They are very handy, work as good as a mouse, but allow for a different experience, especially for those of us who have trouble with using a mouse. Variations here and here give you an idea of the choices available in form, like specialized keyboards.

Also, they may be coming out with a flip version of a smartphone (Samsung, I believe?) in the near future. Is your mom a Star Trek:TOS fan, by chance?

Also, you might try buying her a cheap tablet, and loading a few games into it, to get her used to using the form factor. (Hey, that's why Microsoft invented Minesweeper and Solitaire, so it's not as dumb an idea as it sounds... and not mine - obviously. "Good minds invent, GREAT minds steal. " heh )