Reddit mentions: The best knockout punches

I'm fine with all of that, I can't weld worth shit but I have a lot of auto experience and that was my career path for a good long time. I don't need to patch any holes, just add more. The best method I have seen is using a knock out to keep clean edges like this: https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-1-1-Standard-Knockout-8-Inch/dp/B002NQWZU2

I think I have a good plan and am on track, that panel just seems so small to me for 6 button, I hope it comes out ok. Obviously they made it in 6, but gahhh.... I'm probably just overthinking this way to hard.

Step bits are cool if you don't know what size you want, but hole punches, like this small set from Greenlee work best for clean edges IMHO. You put the cutter and receiver on either side of the metal and then tighten the bolt until a smooth hole is produced.

I get a dead link.

If you need more holes, buy some rubber grommets and a hole cutter. Super easy to do.

The hole cutter you want is either a knockout punch or a stepped drill bit. You really shouldn't try to use a stepped bit with a hand drill. Something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Greenlee-7211BB-1-Slug-Buster-Knockout-8-Inch/dp/B0018LC8WI Be aware that the edges from that are super sharp. You will need some emery cloth or sandpaper even if you're going to use grommets.

If you want a clean cut that is very easy I highly recommend a knockout punch.

https://www.amazon.com/Central-91201-Manual-Knockout-Punch/dp/B0012F8GCQ

You drill a small hole to get the tool through and then punch out the hole in your kettle. Takes less time, looks better, and makes a cleaner cut. Fair warning some are sized in inches and others by the size of pipe that can fit through (like the link below) it so read before you buy.

https://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-10-pc-60575.html

The chassis is important for shielding. I highly recommend BUD for these. They are inexpensive and you can work the soft aluminum chassis with hand tools and a punch kit like this. Depending on how much time you want to spend, you can make very attractive-looking devices with these.

Grounding is important in building a preamp or any kind of electronics handling low-level signals. The usual way is to have one chassis ground point as close as possible to the input connectors.

thanks for the link. bookmarked!

wonder how it compares to the one on amazon everyone loves.

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hydraulic-Knockout-Punch-TH0004/dp/B00HJX58HG/

That’s a punch out set. I used them while I was a electrician to punch out holes in large electrical boxes to fit connectors and whatnot. There should also be a hydraulic press that the thread piece attaches to.

Good find. A full set with the hydraulic press can be like $1500

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWB6VM/

I built an e-BIAB setup a few years ago that is still my "indoor rig" for deep winter months. Price breakdown was roughly as follows:

Kettle:

• 62 qt Bayou w/basket (Amazon) - $150
  
• stainless 3pc ball valve and weldless bulkhead (BargainFittings) - $30
  
• 2.5" thermowell (BargainFittings) - $25
  
• 4500w SS element w/cord - $60
  
  Total = $265
  
  Controller:
  
  
• High Gravity's EBC II - $295
  
• Johnson controller (A419)- $70
  
  Total = $365
  
  Wiring:
  
  
• 50A GFCI Spa Panel (Home Depot) - $50
  
• 30A 4-prong receptacle - $10
  
  Total = $60
  
  Grand total: $690
  
  You can shave a lot off of that by building a simple PID controller as others have mentioned. I was pressed for time, so I went with the EBC II and have been fairly happy with it. You can also find fittings a bit cheaper if you shop around.
  
  Note I also bought some fancy Greenlee punches (e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-1-1-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B002NQZ0J0/) and a step bit to cut my holes, knowing I'd use them again. You can avoid that if you have friends w/tools or just buy a dirt cheap step bit from Harbor Freight and work a bit harder.
  
  Also, worth mentioning that you DO need GFCI protection and if you are at all unsure about hooking things up, get a professional electrician.
  

I'll try to get some more pics up later when I get home from work. I had a friend machine it but aluminum is easy enough to drill that you could do it with a drill press. I wouldn't try a cordless drill with that diameter though. Another option is using a [knockout tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Central-91201-Manual-Knockout-Punch/dp/B0012F8GCQ), and then you could use just about any metal box you can get your hands on.

http://www.amazon.ca/Greenlee-730BB-3-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B001UL13M2

This is what you want. Ask on your local homebrew club's forum if someone has one, because these are expensive and only used a few times. You can also go to a metal shop in an industrial park and ask them to do it for you. They won't charge a lot and they will clean it up nice for you.

If I may recommend a better tool than the "cheap bits"....I built a HERMS kit a couple years ago with a single step carbide bit and one of these Manual Knockout Punch Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012F8GCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hsnOybVW95Y7Q

You could use a square punch, but it's a bit spendy.


You could also cut the hole with a jigsaw.


A nibbler will do a nice job if you get one that can handle the thickness of your metal.

this is my friend

Clearance below the NMO is about 3/8 inch (~10mm). You really only need a bit more than the clearance of the coax in the bushing assembly as shown here.
I just drilled a couple of NMO's on my (aluminium body) F-150 last weekend and I use a wrench tightened metal hole punch like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-3-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B001UL13M2
It produces a clean burr-free cut.

easy peasy, little elbow grease w/ common sense and presto or i've seen this way done to the same effect.

DN 32 - 1¼ - 1.660 in (42.16 mm)

Would be a 1 1/4" hole punch like.
https://www.greenlee.com/products/DIE%2540c-RD-1%2540.250-(43%2540c2)-CONDUIT-(735).html
https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-1-1-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B002NQZ0J0

Are you soldering in or using a bulkhead fitting on your boiler? You could use a step bit to drill out a hole.
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518546407&sr=1-3&keywords=step+bit+for+stainless+steel

>Really? Do tell me how much I'm saving with amazon prime vs going to a store

Well this would greatly depend on what you were purchasing now wouldn't it?

Here was my big one.

Amazon

Another shop

At my local retailer its 1299.00 for this kit.

I got it for the price you see for Amazon and they shipped it via Overnight for an extra $2.99.. Was that worth it? You bet your ass it was.

The only way to successfully crimp a micro MOLEX connector is with this tool

Almost impossible to screw/drill in tight spaces without this

Need to punch a hole in an electrical box without spreading hazardous metal chips everywhere? Use this

Need to tighten the connections under a faucet? Good luck doing it without a basin wrench.

Need to fix a Moen shower valve by replacing the cartridge? Your fucked without the Cartridge Removal Tool that is absolutely useless for anything else.

I was looking for the entire unit, like this

Knockout punch, might find one cheaper somewhere.

What you are looking for is a radio punch instead of a conduit punch. This will work:

http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-3-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B001UL13M2

i'm not sure why people stopped using these...

conduit punch

right tool for the right job...

Hate to be that guy... but man if you do get one, get me one too :J

http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-743BB-Standard-Knockout-8-Inch/dp/B002NQZ2FM

We have a pneumatic version of this at work. Instead of using a ratchet to wind the thread through, ours just pulls the edged piece through the steel into the die.

This is a newer version of the same thing.
https://www.amazon.com/Pneumatic-Hydraulic-Knockout-Punch-Complete/dp/B002A4FBAS

Well, there are chassis punches (a/k/a panel punch.) You drill a hole, thread the punch through the hole, and then tighten. The die cuts out the exact shape it was designed for.

You'll probably find them a little pricey for a one time use.