Reddit mentions: The best kvm switches

All the above, with a few extras;

• Cable ties
  
• Electrical tape
  
• Masking tape (for temporary labels)
  
• Small/preconfigured wireless AP - bigger businesses this tends to be a big nono regardless of how secure it is but it's nice when you can use it.
  
• Powered USB hub.
  
• Some kind of hands free system for your phone. The headphones that came with it will do just fine, but bring something. I have seen so many technicians either slowed down to one hand/hurting their neck or dropping their phone because they didn't bring one.
  
• Derp, completely forgot - multimeter!
  
  Things to have but probably leave in the car depending on how often you find them in use.
  
  
• Basic toolkit (I carry a leatherman and keep a 4-in-1 screwdriver in my bag, that's 99% of the tools needed but it's nice not to have to run around looking for the other 1% when they're called for.
  
• Basic drill set, include spade bits. It's nice to be able to quickly make that hole yourself rather than "OK I'll run the cable allllll the way around here..".
  
• At least one of literally every cable you can possibly think of, especially things like console cables that you can't get at the local electronics store.
  
• One of literally every X to Y converter you can think of - again, if you can't walk into the local electronics store and pick one up you should have it with you.
  
• Various power boards and extension leads (power and things like USB etc)
  
• Decent coil of CAT6 + connectors/crimper.
  
• External HDD, bigger the better. Keep it separate from 'your' drives so you can leave it on site or mail it somewhere if you need to (it happens).
  
• A few blank USB sticks, preferably encrypted. Same deal as above.
  
• Small switch or hub.
  
• Spare monitor - honestly I would love to find one that had USB power and a VGA connection. I haven't really looked as this really is just a 'eh maybe' thing for me but I'd be lying if I said I didn't want one. Failing that, just a small spare monitor.
  
• External DVD drive
  
• External Floppy disc drive and a disk. Putting that SATA/RAID driver on and plugging it in is faster and easier than building custom install media on the fly.
  
• Snacks and water! Seriously, keep a few things in the car (or even in your bag) that won't go bad for those times you're stuck and just don't have time to find food.
  
  Some 'maybe' things - nice to have them in your mind but for most technicians it's overkill. Do the space/cost/how much you'll use it math.
  
  
• Lockpick set - honestly it's a bit extreme and there can be laws etc to consider depending on where you live, but picking equipment locks is super simple and when you add up how many hours you've spent standing around because "Who the HELL either has this key or authorisation for me to get a hammer?!" it's suddenly not so silly. Unless you're charging by the hour, in which case make them call a locksmith!
  
• Something like this - any spare KB/mouse will do but these are super nice. Edit: apparently this webpage is super dodgy? I didn't buy one from here, just googled the item. They're on Amazon and other places as well.
  
• Bluetooth to serial connectors are always nice - direct is better but if you're going to use converters why not do it from a comfy spot instead?
  
  Probably more I'm forgetting. Big part of my last job was going to sites with lots to do and little time.. there was always a bunch of things that came up so I learned it was best to just be prepared for anything, it saves you so much time and stress in the long run and makes you look like a god to the clients when every time something comes up, you handle it easily.
  
  Edit: Cool stuff others have posted:
  
  
• Make an ISO pretend to be a real hardware DVD
  
• Portable KVM.. just... drool. I am buying one. Though if anyone knows of a wireless version my soul may be up for bargaining.

If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

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There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

----

> Anybody have any experience with startech twin monitor KVMs in gaming situations? I want to use my mac and my PC on the same monitors but I'm worried about input lag, something like this
>
> https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-Switch-Audio-SV231DD2DUA/dp/B003N3BU6E/

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk2y5sx

----

> Is the X3450 and a Lenovo OEM motherboard a good idea? I just want it to be compatible and overclockable to >3.2 Ghz without much hassle. Other options are quite similar like the regular green Intel boards.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk32sqo

----

> Is there any type of service where I could send in my side panel to have a window installed?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk38u19

----

> Any help you guys can offer? A friend of mine /u/d0nt_care_anymore is trying to do a clean install of windows to his newly bought M.2 that he's adding to his already built rig.
>
> He's doing a clean install, drive appears to housed correctly as is visible in windows installer. Other primary drive is disconnected whilst installing. Mb is z97i-plus. M.2 is a Samsung 960 evo 250gb. He can't seem to get the M.2 to be picked up in the bios and windows installer won't allow the install.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk39pqe

----

> Best gaming mouse for large hands?
> I'm 6'5" and an all around big guy. I used to have a Logitech G500 which, after 10 years, left this world far too soon (RIP) and it fit pretty well, but wasn't perfect. Once it died, I replaced it with a G502 and the fit doesn't seem as nice. In particular my pinky and ring finger are always fighting with each other while using it.
>
> I'd prefer something with similar features like quick DPI adjust buttons, at least 3 assignable thumb buttons, wired (but will go wireless if I have to).
>
> I'm thinking about biting the bullet and getting another 500, but they're like $120 now on Amazon, which is $60 more than I paid for it 10 years ago. Any recommendations are appreciated.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3aeer

----

> Should I get the sennheiser 598s or the gsp 300s? I want to be able to use them for both my Xbox and pc, and I'd have to get a mic for the 598s.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3dqqm

----

> when i plug a usb stick into my laptop it reboot loops, please help i need to install w10

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3ed0u

----

> My PC keeps booting immediately into the bios screen after I went in and selected "optimize defaults". How do I get it to boot straight back up into windows?
> Using a Gigabyte mobo

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3l00q

----

> Want to get a separate microphone, as an upgrade to the one I'm currently using (It was borrowed indefinitely from a Wii game). Is This a decent choice?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3ms4w

----

> Why can I keep using Windows oem codes? I got like 4 computers with codes on them, and when I build other computers I have used those, just to see if they work, used the same one for my main computer and my brothers and they both work fine, I'm not complaining about it, I'm just confused as to what's going on

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3qhc0

----

> I'm changing my case. Currently running on crappy Thermatake V3 black. And I'm not quite sure what my new case will be.
>
> Anyway here's my current build.
>
> PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
>
> Type|Item|Price
> :----|:----|:----
> CPU | Intel - Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $169.88 @ OutletPC
> Motherboard | MSI - H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $42.38 @ OutletPC
> Memory | Kingston - HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $63.68 @ OutletPC
> Storage | SanDisk - Z400s 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $83.01 @ Amazon
> Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Black 1.5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $128.01 @ Amazon
> Power Supply | SeaSonic - S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $34.98 @ Newegg
> Optical Drive | LG - WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $45.88 @ OutletPC
> Case Fan | Cooler Master - SickleFlow (Blue) 69.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $5.29 @ SuperBiiz
> Case Fan | Cooler Master - SickleFlow (Blue) 69.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $5.29 @ SuperBiiz
> Case Fan | Cooler Master - SickleFlow (Blue) 69.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $5.29 @ SuperBiiz
> External Storage | Western Digital - Elements 1.5TB External Hard Drive | $85.00 @ Amazon
> External Storage | Toshiba - Canvio Basics 1TB External Hard Drive | $54.89 @ OutletPC
> | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
> | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $738.58
> | Mail-in rebates | -$15.00
> | Total | $723.58
> | Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-11 22:43 EDT-0400 |
>
>
> I'm weighting my thought between Fractal Design Focus G mini, Cooler Master Mastercase 3 And NZXT S340 Elite
>
> A notice is that I live in Thailand. My mobo is mATX and it doesn't have 3.0 usb header. Lastly, my budget really can't go beyond 100 USD.
>
> Any help would be appreciate :)

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3qir4

----

> Is Rainbow Six Siege region locked if I buy it in China and will I be able to play it in the US? Steam does not say that it is locked on the store page (image) but I don't know what are the Uplay policies. Can someone please clarify this for me?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3r13m

----

> I'm thinking about buying a Dell XPS 15 9550, but there are really conflicting reviews on it. Does anyone know if it's just the bad reviews being more spotlighted, and in actuality it's a safe laptop to buy?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk3uzt4

----

> Hi guys, r7 1700, B350 Tomahawk, MSI Gaming X RX480 here. I noticed that my Samsung pm951 sad, placed under the GPU, floats around 48-50° C when during normal workload, and jumps to 60-65°C under heavy tasks like gaming.
> Do you suggest me buying a Pcie slot m.2 adapter and move away the SSD?
> I have two intake fan on the front, and one as rear exhaust. I'll try play a bit with the fan curve to see if I can improve the situation.
> Case is a Fractal Design Define C, if it matters.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk415hz

----

> Not PCMR related but this is the only place that I can get a fast answer to my question. Please don't downvote.
>
> Is there a way to transfer "Dial-Up Broadband Network" internet from PC to LG G4 Android 6.0 phone without rooting? (Apparently through USB cable)
>
> If it is only possible with rooting, then is the probability of "bricking" your phone when rooting or unrooting high?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6mmfug/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_11_2017/dk449f0

----

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Awesome, thanks for that.

This will handle the consoles switching with one HDMI port using one button - nice and clean:

https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-TeckNet-Bidirectional-Switcher-Supports/dp/B07SWJG2DY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=hdmi+switch&qid=1574052012&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNkdYV1hFVk8xNEFJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjczNzY3Mk43MDBQN0ZaVU0wRyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODg3Njk4OUtFMUhRT0lFVjFGJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

​

With the mouse and keyboard... If you are focused on gaming, you could probably do better for the price. But, at the end of the day, Logitech is a good brand and if you like the feel and happy with them - then its a good choice for you :-)

I'm assuming (let me know if any of it is wrong):

• Your Omen Laptop has Mini DisplayPort
  
• Your MacBook Air is Type C only
  
  ​
  
  With your monitor being 1080p 144Hz, this presents an interesting challenge as i assume you would like to keep that functionality. So i can provide 2 options, one that might keep the high refresh functionality on your gaming laptop and will cost a lot more (but would be a cleaner 1 button solution) or the one i would do to save a buck and will definitely keep high refresh (2 button solution):
  
  ​
  
  Option 1:
  
  In THEORY (only because i haven't tested it and can't say for sure - maybe someone else with first hand experience can chime in) you could get a DP KVM that can do 4k 30fps which would maybe allow for 1080p 120fps
  
  Like this:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-DisplayPort-Cable-Switch/dp/B076ZDQDN4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=displayport+kvm&qid=1574051617&sr=8-3
  
  (or find one specifically stating it can do 1080p 144Hz with DP connectors)
  
  ​
  
  If it does work, then you would need:
  
  

1. Mini DP to DP adapter for the Omen Laptop
   
2. Type C to DP adapter for the MacBook Air
   
3. Type C to Type A adapter for the MacBook Air USB
   
   ​
   
   It would 100% work and give you output but as i said, i cant guarantee you'll keep high refresh with this KVM and its a bit of an investment on a hope. But will allow you to click one button and have everything swap over.
   
   ​
   
   Option 2:
   
   Get a USB switch to toggle only the USB devices between the computers. This means that you would have to switch the display input on the monitor manually but it wont affect any high refresh rate.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=kvm+switch&qid=1574051808&sr=8-5
   
   ​
   
   Then i would get the following for connecting to the monitor and computers:
   
   

• Type C to DVI adapter for the MacBook Air
  
• Mini DP to DP adapter for the Omen Laptop
  
• Type C to Type A adapter for the MacBook Air USB
  
  ​
  
  Hope this helps - let me know if you need me to clarify anything and feel free to check me out on youtube ("TechLens" - same pink monitor logo as on reddit) Like, share etc if you want to say thanks! :)

This is a bit different from what you described, but you might be able to achieve a similar workflow by passing GPUs through to your VMs and using a KVM switch to redirect your monitors & usb devices to different GPUs attached to different VMs.

Here's what you'd need:

- Pretty much any Linux distro

- More than one GPU

- At least two PCIe USB controllers

- A motherboard and CPU that support passing PCI devices to virtual machines

- A kvm switch like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Port-Dual-DisplayPort-Switch-Audio/dp/B003N3BU6E

- The awesome community at /r/VFIO

​

It'll take a lot of setup, but once you're done you'll be able to toggle through your VMs just by pressing buttons on the KVM switch, plus you'll get full performance from the GPUs which is great if you plan on gaming.

​

I hope this helps!

You can get KVM in 2/4/8 etc connections but the price goes up significantly for each - same with dual monitors. Combine them both and you end up with an ~$800 KVM. Ouch. Though this ioGear unit is a little more reasonable at about $500.

I would suggest sticking with laptop and desktop and doing the DVI input swap when you want the Pi. A standard KVM with dual displayport capability is more like $250 which is still expensive but very convenient if you switch systems regularly.

I don't know anything about this company but found the link while searching, it might be worth digging through here to see if you can find the best fit for you. https://www.kvm-switches-online.com/multi-monitor-displayport-kvm.html

I just deployed a two computer dual monitor DVI port replicator from StarTech, it worked great except for some business-type devices that didn't like switching on the built-in USB hub. the actual KVM part worked great.

If I understand your questions correct, as in connected to both but not playing the audio from both at the same time?! Then yes, it's possible. I run the same setup. PS4 and PC on my desk and Arctis connected to both so I don't have to change wires or settings when switching where I need sound from.
You'll need to buy a bit of extra bits though. Let me elaborate:

• 1: To get the best sound you want Toslink connections to both and USB to both for power and chat-mix. You'll need both a toslink and USB splitter. NOT a Hub. Something like this: https://www.amazon.de/CSL-%C3%9Cbertragung-verlustfreie-Signal%C3%BCbertragung-Hifi-System/dp/B0130TX40U
  You need 2 IN and 1 OUT (!!!). You'll then connect both the PS4 and the PC to the 2 IN ports and the OUT port goes into the transmitter.
  
  You'll need to do the same for the USB, get a similar box:
  https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01CU4QCRS/ref=psdc_430058031_t2_B074TYDJK2
  Connect a USB lead from both the PS4 and the PC to the IN ports and the OUT port goes into the Transmitter.
  
  My two splitter boxes have hardware switches so even if both devices are running, I can toggle sound with a button push (USB switches automatically but toslink is manual). I find that better than auto switching, especially when both are running.
  
  
• 2: If you have it set up like this you'll only need to configure one input on the transmitter. For me that's the PS4 mode so it defaults to Toslink in and Party Chat from USB. All the settings in the box are made for that one connection so whichever feed I'm running into the transmitter from the switch above, gets the equalizer/chatmix settings.
  
  
• 3 Bluetooth is separate so my solution works the same as bluetooth and PS4.
  
  Again, parts you need:
  
  
• 3 Toslink cables (2 from PS4/PC into splitter, 1 from there to Transmitter)
  
• 3 USB cables (2 from PS4/PC into splitter, 1 from there to Transmitter)
  
• Toslink splitter/switcher (2 IN and 1 OUT at minimum)
  
• USB splitter/switch (2 IN and 1 OUT at minimum)
  
  If your PC supplies USB power while it is switched off, the Transmitter keeps getting power to recharge the batteries. Make sure to set the Display to timeout in that case to avoid burn in!
  
  So with a bit of extra hardware it is possible and works a treat. You can get real short cables to keep it tidy. I mounted the switches on the wall and have just enough length to get to the boxes.

I bought an adjustable standing desk base from Amazon or Wayfair, you want something electric like this.

A standing desk mat is also a must-have. Spend the extra money and get a higher quality one than the Amazon basics. Those flake apart and break down fast. I have been using this one for about 2 years now and it's holding up great.

After a week or two you can stand all the time at your desk, no issues. I find it much more enjoyable than sitting. I stand 99% of the time now.

If you're like me and your job is more about getting your work done than making sure you stare at a screen for 8 hours a day, then I would also suggest a switchable USB hub that lets you change your mouse/keyboard between your personal PC and work PC easily. This also helps save a ton of space. Something like this.

As far as monitors, I just use different inputs and use the same monitors between work/personal PCs. Work on inputs 2, personal on input 1.

If you find you can't focus when you need to then you might need to separate work and personal computers/setups more.

I have the exact same setup at home!

I tried sharing the kb and mouse for a while, but in my stubbornness to not buy a USB switch to do that properly I ended up instead with a somewhat low-tech solution of putting my dock right against the front of the desk so that I just use my trackpoint + thinkpad keyboard when it is docked. When I want to use my desktop the kb tucked away in the back swaps places with the ultra dock / thinkpad.

If I wanted to do this more properly, I think I could achieve it by buying a USB switch like this one and keeping the dock permanently in the back. What I like about my current setup is that I can continue to use the Thinkpad's screen while it is docked for a terminal screen right above the kb, while the main screens are used for productivity.

As for how I switch the monitors, I have a pretty low-tech solution: suspend/sleep the computer I'm not using and let the monitors automatically resolve the active input port.

Well, you could move the camera. Find a comfortable space for a potential cockpit, see where you'd need the camera to be, and find a little stand for it, along with a USB extension cord to go along the edge of the room. If the headset's wires aren't long enough to properly extend to you from that position, you could find an HDMI and USB extension cords for it as well. If you want the cameras to be static, you could buy a second camera to sit in the middle of the room, and use a USB switch to switch between them (I personally use this one to switch between my PS3 and PS4, but there are other options out there).

Otherwise, I'd also agree that a fold up stand would probably be best here. I have the Apiga AP2, which also has the option for the seat mount (though you'd have to source the seat). You could have the stand folded up in a closet with the seat, and when you want to race, put them together in the middle of the room, and enjoy. There are other folding mounts out there, but the AP2 is the only one that I know of that also has an option for seating, and most of the other ones have a bar that goes between your legs.

I've seen some comments about TeamViewer, VNC and similar services--TV is less than ideal, unless they've fixed their security holes.

One thing you may like, though I'm not sure on the setup required, is Apache Guacamole, which is kind of like RDP/VNC, but in an HTML5 enabled web browser. There's a lot of benefits to something like that, but it may not be what you're looking for.

I'd you decide you would rather do something with VNC, I'd recommend TightVNC for a free option--if nothing else, you can use this as a platform to determine if VNC is doable for you. We actually use this at work to access some non-rdp-enabled virtual machines at work...and, more recently, had used this to remote into a friends's "server" up in Canada.

There was some other service you could get before, though I can remember what it is offhand--but it was basically a cross-platform, virtual KVM. Synology? Maybe.

For a full hardware solution, take a look at KVMs, as that might give you something closer to what you're looking for--though, still not ideal.

Finally, you could always upgrade to W10 Pro on the desktop, and just use RDP.

Okay, got it. DisplayPort 1.2 and HDMi 2.0 both support 3440x1440 at 100 Hz, so you have some options.

Something like this looks like it would work pretty well. It looks like only the mini Displayport version is DP 1.2 though.

Otherwise you could go for an HDMi 2.0 switch like this and then pair it with some adapters like this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073B84CY1/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519231390&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi+kvm+extender&dpPl=1&dpID=51C0LYZUZoL&ref=plSrch

For the KVM extender. I'm not so certain it's the best option unless you NEED it to be one cable. You're not going to need cat7 if you're going that route. And probably shouldn't, it's not really standardized at this point. I don't have a link to anything I've used but it's been hit or miss every time I've needed it.


Let's go cheap though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0716WQGXS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519232071&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdmi%2Brepeater&dpPl=1&dpID=41Cjp8ODTWL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
I have it, it works perfectly as an HDMI repeater. Use it close to the computer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005T3LKKM/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1519232203&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3ft+hdmi+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=51GfZIPjNZL&ref=plSrch
Use this to go from computer to repeater.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FX8Q3NM/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1519232352&sr=8-12&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=100ft+hdmi+cable+2.0
This is the exact cable I used for my setup. This should take care of the main run of HDMI. Goes from repeater to your monitor.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I0T2V6O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519232631&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+over+ethernet&dpPl=1&dpID=41ghBtd5wgL&ref=plSrch
The usb to ethernet I have is discontinued. This looks similar but might have to shop around. You WILL need a powered USB hub at your monitor/keyboard/everything setup.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MU4TOA0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519232911&sr=8-2-spons&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cat6%2Bethernet%2Bcable%2B100%2Bft&psc=1&th=1
For your main run of USB. I have not used this cable, but I've bought from the vendor before and been satisfied.

Once again, YMMV and do not buy anything that can't be returned.

I use the new Sony GOLD Wireless Headset, which is made for the PS4 for sure (with 7.1 spatialization) but it works perfectly wirelessly as well with the USB dongle (included with the headset) on the Shield... and even on pc/mac, smartphone and Switch if you have a USB-to USB C adapter, which is pretty cool !

I don't know if the Shield could work with 2 Sony Gold headsets. (1 dongle 2 headsets ? But i guess 2 dongles and 2 headsets should work, after all they are 2 USB ports on the Shield. )

Concerning your question "Will the Shield transform the DTS audio into PCM?" Yes it's not a problem, the Shield "adapts" the sound with the codecs your headphones can decode. I use Kodi with 4K DTS/AAC/PCM videos without a problem. The only codec problem i've got is with 4K shows on Netflix (can't launch the show with my headphones plugged) and HBO app is not supported as well :/

Also, i bought a usb switch. I plugged the headset USB dongle on one end and connect my PS4, my Shield TV and my Switch on the other end, you have to tap on a button to switch between devices though https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=UGREEN+USB+Switch&qid=1556409282&s=gateway&sr=8-3

So when i want to listen my shield TV with my headset, i simply press the button swapping. I don't find any seemless USB switch though.

TL:DR 2 Sony Gold Wireless Headset + One USB switch with 2 commutators should do the trick most of the time and you still can have your soundbar or any other added sound systems.

Yeah sorry I realised it wasn’t the easiest to follow when I read it back! Nope nothing special about them but they don’t appear to support Remote wake for USB so I can’t get my setup to wake either laptop by moving the mouse unfortunately which would have been a nice to have and to save from opening the lids of the laptops should either be powered down.

Here is an Amazon UK link to the USB 3.0 UGreen switch, the other is the same but only USB 2.0:

UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch, 2 in 4 Out Put USB 3.0 Sharing Switch Box Box for Mouse,Keyboard,Scanner, Printer with 2 pcs of 1.5m USB 3.0 A to A Cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Zmj0Bb2MCNZXR

Heh, good luck with that! :)
I got tired of searching and just went with this USB switch:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01MXXQKGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As for the monitors, I hooked up a second HDMI cable that I can connect to the laptop and just switch the inputs on the monitor itself. Not ideal but I guess it'll get the job done :) Good luck OP!

I’ve used a USB switch. Not all of them are made equal. At work I have one that has dedicated mouse/keyboard USB ports so you can switch from the keyboard itself. Doesn’t work well with my keyboard or mouse. So I can’t use the keyboard switching, or the keyboard/mouse ports. It’s also a little slower than I’d like.

I’m needing something similar at home, so I’m taking a different approach. Instead, I want a powered hub to be what gets switched, and use a simpler 1-port USB switch. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TZKGVR

To use your USB-C port, you’d need to add an appropriate cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKSF39O

You can find these in USB 3.0 (5Gbps) versions, which are more future proof. My suggestion is that I’d want a simple 1-port USB switch like this, and pay the extra for a 3.0 version. For now, you only need the one port, but you can add a hub down the road and if it’s a decent one, get usable performance out of it. It won’t be great for SSDs (my hubs tend to throttle write speeds), but SD Card readers and optical drives would be fine.

My personal favorite is the 2-Port IO Gear KVM for most setups, I use these on 3 of my gaming systems and have never had input lag. I don't use the VGA connect, just the USB and Audio, then I switch video directly on the monitor. I prefer these because the cables are not detachable and you can double tap the "Scroll Lock" key to switch between 1 & 2. TrendNet also has some nice KVM the main difference being the detachable cables.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Miniview-Switch-GCS632U/dp/B0001BVXI6/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511120123&sr=1-3&keywords=KVM&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A5060496011

I have 5 of these 2-Port TrendNet KVM around the main building for various systems, I like them and have never seen input lag. These were purchased by someone else prior to my arrival, but they work great so I see no need to change them out. I usually order the IO Gear, but these are just as solid and reliable, again, personal preference because of the one-piece design of the IO Gear.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Monitoring-Auto-Scan-Feedback-TK-207K/dp/B000F4C310/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511120123&sr=1-4&keywords=KVM&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A5060496011

I use 3 of these 4-Port TrendNet KVM for another location. When I arrived there was already 1 on-site, and when I needed more I had no reason not to buy the same brand and style. Great price, very reliable, no input lag, and they have all lasted well over 2 years of constant use.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Connections-Resolution-Computers-TK-407K/dp/B000JP1TFG/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511121027&sr=1-2&keywords=KVM&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A5060498011

Now, I do have one of these 4-Port ieGeek KVM for a smaller server setup. I hate it. It just feels cheap, it has a single button that cycles through all 4 connections whether there is anything actively connected to it or not, and the cables are stiff and unwieldy. There is no input lag, the change response is fairly quick, but it doesn't support the double tap Scroll Lock to cycle like the IO Gear or TrendNet models, so I have to make sure it is physically within reach while using it.

https://www.amazon.com/ieGeek-Switch-Monitor-Keyboard-Control/dp/B00J7JGAHM/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511121027&sr=1-3&keywords=KVM&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A5060498011

I use 1 of these 8-Port TrendNet KVM for one of my workbenches because I still needed PS/2 with the USB when I bought it, but it still works great after 3 years, and again, no noticeable input lag.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Connection-Monitoring-Computers-TK-803R/dp/B000P05FAA/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511120407&sr=1-2&keywords=KVM&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A5060502011

I use 1 of these 16-Port TrendNet KVM for another workbench because the 8-Port TrendNet was so reliable, I got this one. I didn't need the PS/2 this time, but it is nice to have just in case I do get any more really old systems in.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Connection-Auto-Scan-Pluggable-TK-1603R/dp/B000P03EO4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511120699&sr=1-1&keywords=KVM&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A5060506011

Get a Pluggable USB-3 dock, a male DVI to female VGA adapter, a USB 3 sharing switcher, and a female USB 3 to male USB-C OTG cable. I promise absolutely nothing

• Install the appropriate DisplayLink drivers on each computer
  
  
• Plug the computers into the host USB ports of the USB sharing switch (use the USB OTG cable to connect the Mac)
  
  
• Plug the Pluggable dock's host USB cable into a peripheral port of the sharing switch
  
  
• Plug the DVI to VGA adapter into the DVI port of the Pluggable dock
  
  
• Cable up the monitors
  
  
• Pray
  
  Plugable USB 3.0 Universal Laptop Docking Station for Windows (Dual Video HDMI & DVI / VGA, Gigabit Ethernet, Audio, 6 USB Ports) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECDM78E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_30Q1Ab3BX3P9J
  
  UGREEN USB 3.0 Sharing Switch Selector 4 Port 2 Computers Peripheral Switcher Adapter Hub for PC, Printer, Scanner, Mouse, Keyboard with One Button Swapping and 2 Pack USB Male Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_53Q1AbPGC4FS6
  

As /u/Astec123 said, you can use a KVM switch.

If you really just want to share a mouse and not a keyboard / monitor as well, you can also use a USB A/B Switch.

Another option is Synergy, software that you install on both computers that just shares the mouse and keyboard between them. I have used a previously available free version across 8 workstations driving 32 LCDs and it worked perfectly.

You're welcome. If you want both chat and game features, just tried this out and confirmed it works, get a USB 2 port switch like this one: UGREEN USB Sharing Switch USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Adapter Box 2 Computer Share 1 USB Device Hub for Printer Scanner with 2 Pack USB 2.0 Male Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU4QCRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fAQHDbCATR1PR

Then just plug a USB cable to both PC and PS4. When you want to switch between just hit the switch and switch on your dock.

If you look at those switches just make sure you look through reviews, you want a switch that doesn't feed power back through the unswitched device as that can fry things. Since the A50s work on both USB 2 and 3 either will work for you.

Multiple monitor KVM switches with digital display inputs certainly exist, but you may need to find one which has the right inputs/outputs depending on what outputs the laptop (or dock) has.

For a KVM with digital inputs/outputs, image quality will not be degraded, but make sure to check the specifications for any limitations on use.

Another potentially slightly cheaper option than a KVM would be to use the extra video inputs on the monitors. For example if your monitors have DisplayPort and HDMI inputs, you can hook up your computer with DP, and her laptop with HDMI, and switch video with the monitor video select buttons. You can then put the peripherals (keyboard, mouse, audio with a USB interface) on a single usb hub, and move that one cable over.

If you want more help please list what exactly the laptop is (so we know the outputs and dock options), and what GTX 1080 (to know what video outputs it has), and your monitors (to know what inputs they have).

Have you seen Level 1 Tech's KVM? They make a dual monitor versions that supports 1440p at 144hz. While not officially supported G-Sync pass-through is reported to work as well as FreeSync. They're cheaper than comparable IOGear dual monitor DisplayPort KVM, but that's not saying much as it's still $565 without cables. https://store.level1techs.com/products/kvm-switch-dual-monitor-model

I've looked for a USB switch that is controllable via keyboard commands but have yet to find one. I'm currently using IOGear's GUS402 4-way USB switch with IOGear's GCS1104 4-way DVI KVM to switch my keyboard and mouse between the console and pass-through ports to get around console port limitations. It has a remote switcher that I put next to my keyboard. The switch works well for the most part but I do have issues with devices not being recognized occasionally and having to cycle through outputs. That's likely due to the fact that I have 20 ft of cable end to end including KVM, switch, and device cables.

You might have more luck asking for a solution in /r/homelab than here. It won't be anything custom built but there might be a used piece of enterprise gear that would do what you're looking for.

no, it wont work that way. you would need something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/

and then you would have to push a button to make it switch between the two.

but you could use a network hard drive. pretty much all the new TVs support reading files from network hard drives. you could put the network hard drive into your tv and computer at the same time.

Edit: wait, actually, you can set your computer to use the USB drive as a network share. so it stays plugged into your computer, then its configured to share the files over the network.

Something like this guy? Looks like the best fit for my situation http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i

I've debated the time it'll take to document vs. how many people might actually replicate it, and decided it's probably not worth it, but basically:

• Pi Zero W
  
• USB sharing switch
  
• 250 GB SSD
  
• A variety of USB-A, -B, and micro adapters 😅
  
• A relay
  
• Solder
  
• GPIO pins
  
  I use Cron to periodically run a script that checks for my wifi network.
  
  When WiFi is detected, the GPIO pins + relay toggle the USB sharing switch (effectively unplugs the SSD from the Tesla and plugs it into the Pi), and then the script mounts the SSD to the Pi. Aside: I prefer this approach over the TeslaPi project, because the SSD is more durable/reliable.
  
  At this point, Apache NiFi picks up the files and uploads them to S3.
  
  I do some other stuff to basically give the Pi a big uninterruptable power supply, but - again - just more details...

USB-C isn't a long-distance form factor. It's designed for adapters and dongles a couple inches away, maybe a couple feet. Not 30 feet away.

Regular USB3 doesn't have any kind of video protocol in it, and trying to run gaming output over it is an exercise in sadness.

Corning offers USB3 or Thunderbolt 2 over fibre lines, for a lot of money and mediocre reviews. Besides, USB3 (as mentioned above) won't cut it, and the other elements of a Thunderbolt 2 setup (TB2 card for host PC and dock for other end) are expensive.

Do enough looking on this and you'll likely come to the same conclusion I have: you need to put stuff over some cat6 lines. There's plenty of HDMI over cat6 boxes, and a lot of VGA+USB2 (KVM) over cat6 boxes, but neither of those are quite what you need.

A lot of searching has found me this product, which will do 1080p HDMI and USB2 over a single cat6 line. There's some other variants on that product page that will do 2160p DisplayPort over a longer distance, if that interests you.

This will get you down to two cat6 lines: one for ethernet, and one for HDMI+USB2. Getting down to a single cat6 line would mean either running HDMI and USB over IP (all the solutions for that are shit) or doing a higher-level transport (ie the Steam Link).

---
Side-note: Assuming you can do renovations to where you live, you should run some cat6 through the walls. If you (or someone you know) has basic home handiness skills and drywall repair talent, you can do it in a weekend. Otherwise, a professional A/V crew will run you $100-150 to run 4 cat6 lines from your entertainment center to your PC setup.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465833952&sr=1-1&keywords=kvm&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A5060496011
+
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-26957-Female-Adapter/dp/B00006HSM2/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465834108&sr=1-7&keywords=dvi+to+vga
+
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465834146&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+hum
=KVM switch with 5 switched USB ports by pressing 1 button that works with DVI monitor output.

The best arduino solution I can come up with will require you to wire up like 30 fets, and will probably not be more elegant than a commercial solution.

Yes. An HDMI KVM should do the job, plugged into the Thinkpad dock.

Here's a fairly cheap one: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS62HU/dp/B004YCUDMU

But, if you want >1080P, support, >60Hz support, or USB 3.0 support, you're looking at $150+.

There are a couple solutions to running video from a PC to a TV over long distance (HDMI doesn't run very far).

1. SteamLink: Works mostly pretty well, but there are some weird gotchas
   
   
2. This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073B84CY1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   I used to use the Steam Link method, but it was a little too troublesome, and doesn't really work if you want to play asymmetric local multiplayer games (all controller inputs quit the steam link software), and it had a ton of trouble with audio mirroring if the headset came unplugged temporarily. I've generally found the second option to work pretty well, though. :) It uses an ethernet cable to extend HDMI and USB over 50m from your TV area to your PC

Yes, USB switching needs an active switch, USB 3 even more so. I'm not sure that switching the high speed USB 3 is even possible.

My thoughts about the KVM switch is to use just the USB part and just not connect the monitor part. Just something heap like this cheap KVM

If you really need USB 3, the high speed part, then you are out of luck. If you just want to switch mouse and keyboard and the occasional USB-stick, then this will work.

Is it possible? Yes. For USB 2.0, it definitly exists.

For USB 3, the best I've found only has two inputs. A combined solution, i.e. this in combination with an ordinary USB hub, may work.

I've had great luck with this dual monitor KVM switch.

Computer 1 is my home computer
Computer 2 is my work laptop in a docking station
I did have to upgrade my video card, but it's all Display port inputs and the switching is flawless

Thanks. That was my concern re: KVMs, and I really didn't want to get something so bulky if I could avoid it.

I'm going to give this one a go since it seems to have some positive success reviews for my use case, and it is much smaller and cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F1BSKFY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If that doesn't work well, then I may have to look at Level1.

I switch back and forth between my laptop and desktop both connected to DisplayPort with this: SIIG CE-KV0411-S1 2-Port DisplayPort KVM Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZT1GQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5v6CybX552MB2

Allows me to share USB devices such as keyboard and mouse. Works well for me. Hope it helps.

Yeah. I plan on setting mine up in the basement because of the potential mess/odor but don't want to plug/unplug the flash drive. My FDM has Octoprint which is a drag/drop of my gcode file. Would be nice to have that on my Elegoo. Fortunately I have network connectivity in the basement, so...

Couple of ways I came up with -

1. I could buy a wifi-enabled flash drive. But that's a single point of failure. Nah.
   
2. I could use some old equipment I have lying around not doing anything - i.e. an old ASUS eeePC netbook. It runs Windows 7 32-bit and just for spits and giggles I installed Chitubox on it and it runs fine (don't think I'll use it on the netbook, though I could attach a spare external monitor and use it as a station next to the printer I guess).
   
   Then I just add this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW20/dp/B074TZKGVR/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=usb+share+switch&qid=1566479458&s=gateway&sr=8-8
   
   ​
   
   I can create a share on the network and drag/drop the files from my main PC upstairs, then when going downstairs and prepping the printer with resin, switch the flash connection over to the Elegoo. When done, switch it back. The netbook can sleep when not in use and WOL with a magic packet.
   
   I think anything intelligent on the "B" side of the switch might do - maybe even a Pi Zero W with Samba (can even use WinSCP on the main PC side to copy files over).
   
   Too bad can't control the printer remotely (other than maybe an intelligent power switch to shut it down). Maybe they'll update the firmware to do it someday...
   
   ​
   
   Oh yeah - I have an ELP mini IP camera that will watch the printer so I don't have to stand in front of it...

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/

I only have one more laptop for work, but had the same problem otherwise. I have been looking around, but could not find a KVM or streaming solution that could cope with the 3440x1440 resolution and refresh rate (they all top out at 4k 30Hz) and wouldn't stress my poor Lenovo work laptop (copious amounts of corporate bloatware) to the point that everything was just slow and unstable. Instead, I now have my Desktop plugged into the Display Port and my Laptop into HDMI, each with their dedicated USB 3 cable to the Hub.

That means I need to connect/disconnect only 2 cables when and if I move the laptop, and otherwise it's only two buttons to switch both display and USB inputs for up to 4 USB devices (mainly my mouse and keyboard). This was the best compromise for me that doesn't sacrifice on input lag or display quality.

You'll want something that'll switch HDMI as well, so an HDMI + USB KVM would be ideal, and maybe spend a bit more money to get a better quality product from iogear.

I recently started using this Pluggable USB 3 switching device to switch a USB hub between two computers I have set up. MY work laptop and home PC. Went for the 3.0 version to have the speed. They have cheaper 2.0 versions as well I think.

It's a bit pricey but damn does it ever fill the exact need I had. Maybe it'd help your situation as well.

Pretty much I have it at the edge of my desk and just press a button to switch which computer's getting the signals.

Well the way I dealt with this problem was to get a really nice laptop to do all my coding, IDEs, etc. I code at school and on the go. At home in my comfortable desk:

• I have an extra laptop charging cable.
  
• In my desk I have my desktop computer that is connected to a switch. And that switch has 2 set of cables that connects to my keyboard, mouse, speakers and monitor.
  
  So when I get home, i connect my laptop to the switch that connects to the my keyboard, monitor, mouse and speakers.
  
  So Im basically coding in my confortable office chair, big monitor, gaming keyboard and mouse. If I need to switch computers, i press a bottom that switches my screen, keyboard, mouse and speakers to my desktop can computer.
  
  
  This is the switch I have.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS62HU/dp/B004YCUDMU

Or just using a USB switcher is fine too if hw solution is preferred. Something like this is pretty inexpensive.

UGREEN USB Switch Selector 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Box Hub for Mouse, Keyboard, Scanner, Printer, PCs with One-Button Swapping and 2 Pack USB A to A Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9cEXDbRJHKMZB

I just bought this switch for my Wired Pro + GAMEDAC and it's awesome. It switches to the input that is on, actually turns off when both systems are off, and still allows for RGB customization. I have not actually used it for online play, but when I test the mic out in the system settings, it shows that it is picking up my voice.

Hope this helps!

I carry this in my digital go-bag. KVM Console to USB2. It's not DVI, but it works great. Not exactly what you're looking for, but if you have a laptop it's very easy to hook this up and diagnose a problem. I use it daily for work and randomly for the homelab.

I have never seen an USB C KVM device.

You could just switch HDMI and USB separately. This has the biggest chance of working without a hitch as there are no signals split or converted, however it requires switching twice every time and two cables plugged into each laptop.

You could use two USB C to DisplayPort adapters (preferably USB C to DP + USB A) and then a DisplayPort KVM or this one has cables built on and one MST hub to split the DP signal after switching.

The forthcoming solution works if you do not need audio.

1. Two of http://www.cablematters.com/pc-952-101-usb-c-multiport-adapter-usb-c-dock-with-usb-c-to-hdmi-dual-4k-display-2x-usb-20-fast-ethernet-and-60w-pd.aspx or Amazon: http://a.co/d/1dYNWI6
   
2. From each two HDMI to DVI cables into https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gefen-2x2-DVI-Switcher-DVI-USB-Audio/183228198779 I believe this is the remote: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gefen-CAT5-RMT4-h6/173401195500 but I have some problem figuring out which 12V power supply is for it. Once it's in hand that's much easier to see.
   
3. Run two more of those cables into your monitors. DVI and HDMI without audio and some remote control stuff PCs do not really use are the same.

Along with the KVM switch for the monitor there are also USB switches for sharing some other hardware. Until I switched to a large monitor I had a monitor KVM switch and the USB switch to go between my work and personal computer. I then got an Logitech MX Master Wireless Mouse which let me switch between three machines with a push of a button. Definitely helped clean up the desk a bit.

This may look familiar, I posted my setup briefly a couple weeks ago but deleted it. I’ve since made some changes and took better photos. Now I’m ready to share!

I switch between the PC & Mac with a USB switch that’s connected to a hub with my keyboard/mouse/mic/webcam/etc, and then change the input source on the monitor. The TV above me isn’t normally on, I really only use it when on the couch behind me.

I use the MacBook 90% of the time, but when it’s time to do video editing or rendering I fire up the big boy:

16-Core AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X 3.4GHz

NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080

32GB DDR4

500GB SSD + 3TB HDD

---

The rest:

LG 34” Monitor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074JKT894/

ATS Acoustic Panels

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QH2RJW2/

Table Lamp

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XPNS3Z/

Monitor Stand

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVBQKZ/

And of course the usual IKEA KARLBY countertop & ALEX drawers. The floor lamp is also IKEA: HEKTAR.

Sorry, been a busy day, but yeah. I want to keep the same cable plugged in to the external port that is on my backpack and simply switch the source of the power going to that port depending on whether I have access to an outlet or not. This thing seems to do what I'm asking, I just hope it can pass enough current to charge a phone, since it seems to be designed more for mice, keyboards, etc. and not very high power output.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=psdc_13983771_t2_B074TZKGVR

Look up USB sharing hubs. You can switch your KB/M with that and then just change the input on your monitor. It's what I do and it works great.

Edit for link: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM

Went with this so I could share controllers, keyboard and mouse, and I gotta say I'm pretty happy so far.

I’m a similar position with software locks and no physical KVM switch.

What I’ve done in the past is leverage my monitor’s multiple inputs to keep both PCs connected. Depending on your monitors, either change the input manually, or they may automatically switch when one PC is off.

For K/M, I’ve picked up a simple USB switch like the one below. Just connect a cheap hub or find a similar USB switch with multiple connections.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TZKGVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TFL2Ab37R90A2

Even if you need display adapters (i.e. DP to HDMI) or new cables to keep both PCs plugged into the monitors, the cost of those and the USB switch will probably be a lot less than a KVM that supports HDMI or DP.

Edit: since both monitors can be operated independently, you can have your work on one screen and play on another. Think of it as the mullet of battlestations - business on one side, party on the other.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-DisplayPort-Peripheral-B004-DP2UA2-K/dp/B01F1BSKFY

I'm currently using this KVM with an Acer 4k@60Hz w/ gsync and it works flawlessly. Haven't yet tried it on my 1440p@165Hz monitor and I haven't used the USB functions of the kvm at all. I just use it for connecting both the host and the vm to the only good connector on gsync monitors and use qemu/kvm to do the rest of the switching.

It seems most of the bad reviews are people who don't realize you can't fake a DP connection to keep monitors "connected" after switching and that you can turn off mouse-emulation to support extra mouse buttons. I believe it supports powered USB hubs as well.

Had it about a month, can reccomend

Ah. Well something like this would probably work for you. Just don't plug in a 2nd computer and it's pretty much just a switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI

Not a KVM but just KM / USB Switch between the macbook pro and the PC. 😁

This one actually: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM

I can't find any KVM that would give me over 60hz at 1440p or Display Port, so my solution is to use HDMI for the Mac (50/60hz is ok i guess), and Display Port for the PC to utilize its gaming capability.

The PC and Laptop use HDMI (laptop) and Display Port (PC) and the input set to Auto (only have one on at a time).

As for the keyboard and mouse, I bought this on Amazon.


UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch, 2 in 4 Out... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N6GD9JO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Works great, would recommend.

I use a USB switch I plug my keyboard into the switch then connect the two computers to the switch via USB. Then I can toggle between the two at any time.

Something like this on Amazon

UGREEN USB 2.0 Sharing Switch 2 Port, USB Peripheral Switcher Adapter Box Hub 2 PCs Share 1 USB Device for Printer Scanner with 2 Pack USB 2.0 Male Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU4QCRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gB3VAbS3GH3PZ

What you are wanting is a KVM (Keyboard Video Mouse) switch particularly a KVM switch with HDMI. This will allow you to use a single keyboard, mouse, and monitor to control two different computers with a single click of a button.

Something like this KVM Switch. This is just a quick glance and Amazon and I'm sure you can probably find cheaper ones out there.

I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZT1GQ6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works wonderfully.

Please note that this is just DISPLAYPORT and not Thunderbolt. You can use it as a monitor hooked up to a Thunderbolt port, but you'll only get the displayport info through it - if you have a Thunderbolt display, all the stuff like ethernet ports and usb ports will not go through it.

Under $150 might be hard. You didn't specify connection type but this is dual dvi and just about your price range.

There are some Belkin ones that good as well, however they will be pricier. Also most KVM boxes these day require you to get your own cables.

A kvm is definitely the easiest way to go. Why wouldn't this work? There are dozens of HDMI KVMs on Amazon. IOGEAR 2-Port HD Cable KVM Switch with Audio GCS62HU (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YCUDMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_w2OIwbQQHJR5D

I have this usb hub plugged into my surface dock. The hub's completely full and I don't have any problems.

If your going to want to to switch the hub between the surface dock and another laptop, you'll either just need to unplug the usb from the dock and put it into the generic laptop when you use it, or you can use a usb switch. Just have one end of it just a usb for your generic laptop, and the other into the surface dock, and you can press the button to switch. Depending on the number of shared (shared as in easily switching back and forth. not using at the same time) peripherals you want to use, you could just get a switch with multiple usb ports

OK - so since I use two computers here, I plug my KB, Mouse, microphone, and a USB 2.0 Hub into this USB Switcher: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/

I mounted that on the back of the monitor with some double-sided 3M thing.

I have my MacBook charger plugged into a power outlet, and that goes into a Satechi USB C Hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWT7MEA/ref=psdc_281413_t3_B07B87BN1M

HDMI from my monitor goes into the USB C Hub for the Mac, and DisplayPort goes into the PC.

The USB Switcher's output goes into my PC and the Satechi USB C Hub for the Mac. I also use a 1.0 ft CableCreations extension cable to extend the USB-C hub's cable and make the connection stronger as the hub's cable is very loose.

With one button, I can switch computers.

Here's what my cable management looks like with the majority of cables being mounted on the back of the monitor.

https://imgur.com/a/6IvJ1TJ

This was probably the best one I tried. It worked for 1440p@144Hz and also does USB switching. Little expensive, but everything cheaper seemed to only support old DP standards.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZR18VPS

Are these two devices in close proximity when you're intending to use them? Why not just use a KVM? Your devices can connect to whatever network you like, only keyboard/mouse/video are shared, and usually toggled via a physical button. You could leave out the video cable and just switch the mouse/keyboard.

If you DO want to use the video, there are options available for most standards, such as VGA, DVI, HDMI. I've not seen one with multiple video cable types on the same switch, but I'm certain some god-awful expensive option is available.

It's definitely a budget system - but still way more powerful than my old laptop whose hard drive is failing. It's actually a factory refurb from the Dell outlet, I managed to grab it for just under $500 with a coupon.

They USB switch is great, no crawling under the desk. I got this one from Amazon. It's held up under front of the desk with a Velcro cable tie, stapled to the bottom of the desk. Proper cable management is coming within the next couple of weekends!

I use a USB switcher (two inputs/one output)with a PS4 and Switch. I was having A LOT of problems at first with the USB switcher automatically jumping over to the Switch when on PS4. I found out that once the Pro Wireless transceiver has it’s own dedicated power source, my cheap switcher doesn’t switch ports on me anymore. Played MHW (Arch Tempered Kushala is a pushover) last night for about four hours without a problem.

Link to the USB switcher

UGREEN USB Sharing Switch USB 2.0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU4QCRS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Turning off the light did nothing for me, I ended up getting this UGREEN USB Switch Selector 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This made it soooo easy to switch back and forth btw my pc and ps4 highly recommend. I got a diagram of you want too

For USB peripherals (mouse/keyboard) you can use UGreen USB switch (amazon link) - it works very well. I got mine from AliExpress and using it from beggining of the year. There is option to power it externally if you will plan to connect anything high-power (mouse/usb is totally fine to be powered from one USB).

For HDMI.. I didnt find any solution - so I'm using monitors with multiple HDMI inputs and switch them. If you are not going to switch between sources every 5 seconds it will be good enough. (it is for me)

You'd be looking for something along the lines of this:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SV231DPDDUA-2-Port-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B003N3BU6E?th=1

I haven't used it personally, but it should be fine. I use a regular single monitor KVM. My second monitor I just change inputs manually from the monitor itself. If you ever plan to use it with a 4k monitor or an ultrawide with higher refresh rates, you might want to consider a displayport 1.2 version. Keep in mind though, that a product like that is extremely niche, and will be priced accordingly.

Can someone help me find a USB switch that takes two inputs and has two ouputs? I want to share my Keyboard & Mouse between two computers I have at my desk. I only will ever need to use 1 computer at a time so I don't want to use a solution like Synergy and I would prefer a physical switch. This product is almost exactly what I need but it only takes 1 input. I want to plug both the keyboard & mouse into it (and not have to buy another combiner).

So the flow would go:

[Keyboard] -> [Switch]

[Mouse] -> [Switch]

--

[Switch] -> [Comp 1]

[Switch] -> [Comp 2]

Do you know which one will support 3 monitors? The KVM's I see support multiple computers.. not necesarrily multiple monitors

http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-4-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS1104/dp/B002RCTNKW/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1324327374&sr=1-5

Here is what I got going on (top to bottom, left to right):

I have my monitor and keyboard sitting on a lack side table
Then on top of my lack side table on casters (I could no longer find it on ikea for the link, not sure if they stopped selling them?) I have:

an AT&T MicroCell - which is awesome since my office (and this closet) is in the basement.

NETGEAR R6250 - which is used for guest Wi-Fi access only.

ieGeek USB LVM switch (behind the NETGEAR)

CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD UPS - Which is currently supporting only my 2 R710's for battery, the rest pictured for surge protection.

Then inside the lackrack:

Cablox Mini Cord Organizers stuck to the roof for clean cable management

Dell PowerConnect 5324 - 24 Port Gigabit

Dell R710 2x Xeon L5520, 32GB RAM, 8GB thumb, 120GB Samsung SSD, 6x2TB Seagate NAS HDD

• FreeNAS 9.10-Stable baremetal install on 8GB thumbdrive
  6x2TB in RaidZ2
  
  
• 120 SSD running on my plugins:
  
  
• Plex
  
  
• CouchPotato
  
  
• Sonarr
  
  
• SABnzbd
  
  
• Transmission
  
  Dell R710 2x Xeon E5530, 32GB RAM, 8GB thumb, 6x1TB Seagate Barracuda HDD
  
  
• VMware ESXi 6 baremetal on the 8GB thumb
  
• Windows Server 2012 - DC, Primarily DNS and some other thingys
  
• Confluence
  
• Sophos UTM 9 - runs my entire lab and home network, FW and routing, etc.
  
• Splunk - DS, Indexers, SH (which will probably consolidate sometime)
  
• Syslog-ng
  
• Misc temporary build machines for learning stuffs.. Most recently OpenStacks
  
  edit: listing stuffs..

Yep. I use this one because it was the cheapest at the time. I just use the USB input/output and the switch button and leave the VGA cable hanging behind the pcs.

The one above works fine, but I'd probably buy this one since it has more usb ports and doesn't have the unnecessary VGA cables. (Check to make sure everything you need is included. Looks like that might be missing a power source).

This is what you need:

UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch, 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB Sharing Switch Box for Mouse, Keyboard, Scanner, Printer with 2 pcs of 4.9ft USB 3.0 A to A Cable https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A6GOAbFKVM0AX

For swapping out your mouse and keyboard you could get a couple of these, or just one with a (powered USB hub. USB 3.0 Switch

There is a noticeable delay (in Windows at least) of around 7 seconds to switch the devices over since your OS will have to recognize the devices again.

If you want to add your monitor into the mix then there is something for that as well but it'd be easier to just utilize more monitors and not worry about that.

A 1440p ultrawide is awesome for work.


https://www.amazon.com/Optimized-VIOTEK-GN34C-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B06Y1GZHYJ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498233207&sr=1-2&keywords=3440x1440p


For the two machines get a simple KVM so you can switch back and forth without touching to many wires.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS62HU/dp/B004YCUDMU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498233128&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+kvm

Something like this? I can find several USB hubs, but not much that lets an incoming USB be split between two outputs.

Sabrent USB 2.0 Sharing Switch for Multiple Computers and Peripherals LED Device Indicators (USB-SW20) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TZKGVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JF8VAb3F4JFD9

My nintendo switch is connected through a USB extension, no problems, the switch charges during play.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LWBYDV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a grip on my NIntendo Switch, Very Comfortable and fits well on my stand

Grip:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WGT97X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stand:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZAYH58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ethernet Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYTSN18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI Adapter, So I can switch between my PC Monitor or my 55 inch TV.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQBY5TX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Switch, Used to switch my keyboard between my PC and Nintendo Switch.

I can now easily chat during online multiplayer or switch back to PC.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

KVM Switch is easy to use - or if you have a monitor that can switch inputs you should be able to get by with just a USB switch like this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+switch&qid=1550597074&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I've been using this for a while with a Logitech universal wireless keyboard and mouse. Works great!

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458699539&sr=8-1&keywords=plugable+usb+switch

Personally I have a USB switch and two monitor cables in my monitor. Whenever I have to work, I simply press the button of the switch and change the monitor input from the monitor menu.

For me this works quite well. I just have to plug four plugs into the laptop, and switching between the systems is a matter of ~4 button clicks.

(You could also look into using VNC, if that would suit you better. For example RealVNC, to control your laptop from your desktop PC.)

Link to the USB switch: https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher-One-Button/dp/B01N6GD9JO

I wonder if this could be used to make this workflow a little easier: Plugable USB 3.0 Sharing Switch for One-Button Swapping of USB Device/Hub Between Two Computers (A/B Switch) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wDfzCb7WVB0R3

I hope that's not the way you actually use it. The ergonomics look terrible.

I'd get a KVM switch and get rid of one of the monitors. Then prop the optiplex on its side and possibly put it on the floor if there is space in the foot area or the gap between the table and wall.

The laptop could even go on that bottom wire shelf.

That way you have a mostly clear working space and can adjust the main monitor so you aren't looking down when you're working. That's assuming you're OK with using just one monitor for your work.

I use one of these USB switches to switch my USB hub between my Mac and PC. Works pretty well, press a button and switch monitor input.

UGREEN USB Switch Selector 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Box Hub for Mouse, Keyboard, Scanner, Printer, PCs with One-Button Swapping and 2 Pack USB A to A Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bVJ3DbQVVZNYE


There are many like this with various port arrangements

Try this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Sharing-One-Button-Swapping-Computers/dp/B00JX3Q28Y

or search for USB switch 1 in 2 out I found that searching quickly

Or this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CU4QCRS/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01CU4QCRS&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_p=8e5be0e3-b258-4b06-8b6e-695b24f935a4&pf_rd_r=A768H9MNGCEWBXPF7GS3&pd_rd_wg=OTW0p&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=uhSeT&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=21567a94-d2d6-11e8-8f79-f579368dfe4e

It say in/out but i suppose as its data that is irrelevant it should go both ways plus the Ugreen one is a better brand.

Sounds like your looking for a KVM switch. Heres one from amazon they have a few options for display inputs for this one and it will support dual monitors.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI


I wonder if this would work... it's a good question for sure

You mean like this? https://www.amazon.com/Sharing-Peripheral-Switcher-Adapter-Printer/dp/B01CU4QCRS

I've had to remove this post as it belongs in the tech support sticky post.

You can maybe try a usb switcher and plug both computers + the dac into it? I found this one on amazon but haven't personally tried it, hope this helps

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-4-Port-Switch-Compliant-GCS1104/dp/B002RCTNKW/

I have three of these on my desk at work and one at home. They're great.

You want what’s called a kvm switch. we use them in the military all the time. They work good. I didn’t have the time to find hdmi ones but I’m sure you can get them.

After a bit more searching, it seems like something like this is what I need:

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI

Sounds like you're looking for a KVM switch: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch

Model and type will depend on your setup/connectors. Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-2-port-DisplayPort-Switch-Built/dp/B00UVH9PRQ

Actually they have gotten alot better now. I just tried a usb switcher for mouse and keyboard for my two computers and it works fairly well.

USB switcher

So there are dual monitor KVM switches, but they seem unnecessarily expensive. Do the monitors happen to have multiple inputs? Then you could, for example, connect the laptop to the monitors with VGA, and connect the desktop with DVI, then just manually switch inputs on the monitors.

For the kb and mouse, a simple USB switch is cheap and easy.

Then the HDMI to the TV is another wrinkle...

Yep, is more expensive up front but allows higher end monitors when you upgrade. Something like this looks sensible https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZR18VPS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506559387&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=displayport+kvm+60hz&dpPl=1&dpID=31IWMo%2BrJIL&ref=plSrch

If it's just the keyboard there are a lot of AB switches out there for that, example: Plugable USB 2.0 Switch for One-Button Swapping of USB Device/Hub Between Two Computers (A/B switch)

If you want to share the keyboard, mouse, and monitor then you are looking for a KVM switch: IOGEAR 2-Port USB KVM Switch with Cables and Remote, GCS22U

{no endorsement of products or sellers implied}

Simple solution is a kvm switch. something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SV231DDVDUA-Monitor-Switch-Audio/dp/B00310EES0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI

That seems like a cheap solution. There's a USB 3 version if you need it

For a cheaper solution, use something like this for your usb devices on 2 PCs. https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ugreen+switch+hub&qid=1562308220&s=gateway&sr=8-3

But u still gotta switch monitors separately.

So I was playing around a little and leaving it unplugged till after the computer has booted and only plugging it in when needed has definitely fixed the issues I was having, now going back to no password and fast start up with no errors.

​

I found this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW30/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+3.0+switch&qid=1566361532&s=electronics&sr=1-4

Thinking about using it, leaing just one of the type B ports unpopulated, and then just hitting the button to switch from the unpopulated port to the one that is connected to the computer should in theory act like plugging it in with out the wear and tear on the ports or having to reach around the back of the computer.

My assumption is that a device like this should add any lag, since it is just switching the input from one output to the other (not duplicating it or acting like a hub/splitting bandwidth), any thoughts?

Yeah, only instead of PS/2 ports and VGA, just for USB.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI

But guaranteed to work with wireless dongles for keyboard/mouse combos.

As already advised, take the PC off the desk to create more space, then get a monitor arm that handles two monitors, this will also clear some desk space. As for using your macbook with it, You'd need to get a HDMI switcher and usb KVM which you would run your PC and Macbook through. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UNX0ZBS?gclid=Cj0KEQiAzsvEBRDEluzk96e4rqABEiQAezEOoBfmM-0_uYdNdYKEHA9m6UeQgsn3ifzYeIueHja9YBcaAiLj8P8HAQ HDMI Switcher and https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Sharing-One-Button-Swapping-Computers/dp/B00JX3Q28Y for the USB

Everything checks out, as far as I can tell.

For monitor switching, you just need a KVM that supports two monitors. Something like this: StarTech Dual KVM... I literally did 5-seconds of searching for that, so this is just an example to get you started, not an endorsement.

What you're looking for is a KVM switch, which lets you switch a keyboard, mouse, and monitor between more than one computer at the touch of a button. If you're looking to do just the keyboard and mouse, this is all you need. If you want the switch to share a monitor as well, you'll have to stick with VGA unless you're willing to shell out a ton of cash.

I use this thing to share the usb receiver for my Logitech touchpad/keyboard and mouse between my Pi and my PC for when I'm tinkering with the Pi. Works great, but there's not much reason to keep your Pi right where your PC is, is there?

You can get a standalone for what you want. https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Sharing-One-Button-Swapping-Computers/dp/B00JX3Q28Y. Same with audio

​

But they do make all in one solutions that you may like: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-DisplayPort-Switch-Audio/dp/B003N3BU6E

​

Plugable Technologies on Amazon. I ordered a USB peripheral sharing switch from them. It came in this box.

I thought about Synergy, but I chose to go with a cheap hardware solution instead. I have my mouse and keyboard hooked up to a USB hub which is in turned hooked up to this USB switch. This switch is connected to my host via the USB ports on the back of the motherboard and the guest through a USB controller card that I passed through. It works extremely well. The only downside for me is that it takes a couple seconds for the mouse and keyboard to initialize every time I switch it.

You want a multi monitor kvm. How many monitors do you need? What type of connection? Looks like you want 4 ports.

Try getting one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002RCTNKW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494899122&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=kvm+dvi+4+port+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41GJjaVQtGL&ref=plSrch

And one of these https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Graphics-Multiple-2048x1152-1920x1080/dp/B00A2E1MQA

Plug the displaylink into the extra port on the back of kvm. This should get you dual monitors. If you're lucky, you could plug a second into the front for triple monitors, but remember you're pulling them through a single usb port.

Something like this sort of leads me to believe I could have one mdp from each pc into the switch, then out to two monitors (via the dp's)?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002S96MRQ?psc=1

edit: or would this ("option 2") be what I would need, as we have previously discussed (from my understanding):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N3BU6E?psc=1

edit 2: This appears to be a "combo"? Although, connecting pcs via usb 3.0 would be a slower data/video transfer rate than actual video cables, or??

https://www.startech.com/Cards-Adapters/Laptop-docking-stations/two-laptop-docking-station~USB3DDOCKFT

https://www.amazon.de/StarTech-com-Port-DisplayPort-Switch-Audio/dp/B003N3BU6E/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=kvm+switch+displayport+2+port&qid=1554886432&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

something like that right? So I will need 6 Displayport cables in total right?

How many channels do you need? Couldn't you just get a HDMI KVM with a DisplayPort to HDMI?

Something like This and This

There's rack mount consoles (I have an HP TFT7600) that plug into an outlet with keyboard, mouse, and screen built in.

I'm not aware of a product that fits the exact description of what you want. However if you were to obtain a netbook or laptop screen, the controller board for it (found online using the model # of the screen), and rig up a battery for power you could make your own.

On further inspection there's this adapter that's a little over the top price wise.

I use this Switch to share my keyboard between 2 computers at my desk:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JX3Q28Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I also have a usb hub attached to it to share my mouse and RGB mousepad.

What's the point of the external keyboards if you still have to reach for the trackpad? Get a USB switch or Synergy and use a single keyboard and mouse for both laptops and you'd have a better experience in my opinion.

Does your display have multiple inputs? If so you can take advantage of that and switch inputs directly from the display.

As for the USB side of things, try one of these: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/

You may need an adapter to go from USB C to the USB A port of that hub/switcher, but I have the USB 2 version of that and it works just fine for switching peripherals between my two computers.

Reposting without referral thing in URL. Apparently I can't be lazy w/ copy and paste around these parts.

According to rule 4. we're not supposed to give product recommendations. However, because I see a few pitfalls, I recommend this one. It has 4K @ 60 Hz support. You'll need to get two of these, one for each screen.

There are also KVMs that can switch two monitors at the same time like this one, but as you can see they're in a different price class ($500+).

Edit: also, use quality short DP cables. DP cables can't be long, and the switch is not a repeater, so the total cable length counts.

If your monitor is 4K this might not be ideal bc it only supports 4K at 6 HZ. Plug kb, mouse and monitor into box, plug box into USB and display ports on Mac and PC. Press the button to switch which computer is using the kb, mouse, and monitor.

Edit. Here’s the link...[](StarTech.com 2-port DisplayPort KVM Switch with Built-in USB 2.0 Hub - Supports 4K Video Resolution at 30Hz - Ultra HD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVH9PRQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wluaAbMP7G3QX)

Sure!

Here's the Amazon Link to the Pluggable Technologies USB3-Switch2

(Surface User here) I know they are kinda spendy for what you get, but I have this:

http://amzn.com/B002CLKFTQ

It has saved my ass many times. Not to mention a few spare USB thumbdrives on hand.

I think you would most likely need two independent hubs, one for the HDMI/Displayport and one for the USB connection, devices such as this https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI

I think there does exist some devices which switch both HDMi and USB but are expensive, like

/u/_Asthenos

Actually there are some ways you can do this. A KVM would be best (not sure how you can afford an alienware tower and a macbook pro, but not a simple peripheral device...)

These are just examples of the device types im talking about, i have not used these and will not suggest using them. Do your own research before buying stuff:


https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO


and


https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/

Ah. FYI, my scanner shows that you can get it for $220 on Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VY8T2Y?linkCode=xm2&tag=ihctc-10644-20

Used laptop/tablet/phone + mobile data. Don't risk your job to find out ACO isn't released yet. If you can't swing that bootable USB will work in a pinch as long as you can unplug the main HDD and the network cable (at least I would). If you only got a tower computer just get an HDMI switch (and probably video card) and flip-flop between them with a KVM assuming your work place has older HDMI out systems. Ensure its not display port!

There is an easy way, use one these for your mouse and another for your keyboard. I velcro'd mine under my desk and just tapped it when I want to swap.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B00JX3Q28Y?th=1

I will use the StarTech SV231DPU2 as an example.

The back has 2 DisplayPort inputs, 2 USB 2.0 outputs, and a third DisplayPort that outputs to the monitor.

The front has a selection switch, indicator lights, and 3 USB inputs.

You plug your keyboard, mouse, and mouse into the switch and then connect the switch to two PC's. It is a combination of USB hub and physical switch.

If you just want occasional control of the second PC you might be better off installing a VNC server and remotely controlling it.

Here is the one that I found, and it has been reviewed and works and is awesome.

Its DP1.2 so it will pass GSync. I use this to go between my work laptop and my Gsync Monior/gaming station.

I had this exact same requirement and its tits.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F1BSKFY/?coliid=I2BPFGLL0I20V1&colid=3TWEMF99S88RZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I have a two Mac setup (one for work, one that’s mine) connected to a wireless mouse and keyboard running through one of these switches and it works flawlessly. It could easily work with a Mac/pc setup. I actually had it working that way before swapping my work windows machine for a Mac.

Edit: because I left out “mouse”

Buy a USB switch and press 2 buttons when you switch, it’s what I do and it makes it easier to switch when I’m PBP mode. Dirt cheap too:

UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch, 2 in 4 Out Put USB 3.0 Sharing Switch Box for Mouse,Keyboard,Scanner, Printer with 2 pcs of 1.5m USB 3.0 A to A Cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kFGmDbFV5FWYA

Most of the better quality DP KVM I am seeing out there are north of $300.

Have you thought about just trying a USB switch and a second port on the monitor for the laptop?

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/

Say hello to analog! Ungodly savings: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JLFS58

edit: this one has better reviews

Not exactly what I'm looking for but may work. However based off that I found this.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Sharing-One-Button-Swapping-Computers-y/dp/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=pd_sim_147_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=31ZJH%2B8lxDL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=SKAK96B65DTJKGK4FNFD

Which I think may work.

For some context I plan on plugging a xbox one controller in to 2 source and changing them easily.

I use this USB switcher to switch between my iMac and my windows gaming computer. I designed/3D printed a mount and mounted the switcher underneath my desk so its a quick push-of-a-button switch between the two. Could be a convenient upgrade for your nice setup!

Yes I do this at the moment. Got my a50s connected to pc, Xbox and PS4.

Get a usb switch and tos link switch. They are about £30 each for decent ones.

UGREEN USB Switch, 2 Port Scanner... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CU4QCRS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


PORTTA APET0301T 3 Port 3x1... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KDZEWWO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If I understand correctly you have a desktop and a laptop dock and you want to easily switch between those.

I believe what you're looking for is called a KVM switch, though I don't know whether they come with all the connections you want.

EDIT: I think I found one which might work for you, not cheap though:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-Monitor-Switch-Audio/dp/B00310EES0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425243277&sr=1-1&keywords=dual+monitor+kvm+switch

Since your monitor has multiple inputs, the least expensive solution would be a USB 3.0 switch for your mouse, keyboard, sound, and external hard drive. Something like this: http://amzn.com/B01N6GD9JO

The downside is you'll have to change input both on your monitor and on the USB switch when you want to switch between laptop and desktop. If you want a single button to toggle, then you will need a KVM switch which handles both HDMI/DP and USB 3.0, and that will be significantly more expensive.

This is the switch I use: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419643320&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+switch

I haven't had any problem with it really. OSX seems to notice the switchover faster than Windows though. Sometimes Windows can take like 10 seconds to register that the keyboard and mouse are re-attached.

KVM switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01MXXQKGM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f0dedbe2-13c8-4136-a746-4398ed93cf0f&pd_rd_wg=kI7LT&pf_rd_r=FDNT0K6V7Y6BP5745F3S&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=nAeS6&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=c1379f52-ec65-11e8-bbc4-8bb98d0238f1

​

Helps switch my keyboard and mouse between my laptop and desktop

Have you considered a good ole kvm switch and a larger single monitor?

The one I used with my old SP3 dock (and some adapters) + desktop:

SIIG CE-KV0411-S1 2-Port DisplayPort KVM Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZT1GQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bdB7yb6PFJX9Q

Something like this should work, since most audio interfaces are USB 2.0 devices: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW20/dp/B074TZKGVR/ref=sr_1_7?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-b7qBRDPARIsADVbUbUK__BqqQBPIOWWpEdR3tnLmB9p_TAYLeaOE8yr-7eRFwX7hJu-0nkaAiFwEALw_wcB&hvadid=153666990682&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9061080&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15872095889442537056&hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-13815470&hydadcr=18000_9428834&keywords=usb+switch&qid=1565562874&s=electronics&sr=1-7

Correct. What you're looking for would be an USB switch, such as this, or this. If the switches you can find don't have enough ports for your needs, you can plug a hub into the switch. Due to the way USB works, you can't just have a passive Y-cable, and need an active switching device.

I did the same thing before with my g533. I used a USB sharing hub. Just had to push a button on the hub to switch. It auto switched also I think when turning on PS4. This is what I used. https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Sharing-Peripheral-Switcher-Adapter/dp/B01CU4QCRS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=ugreen+usb+share&qid=1570937380&sr=8-5

UGREEN USB Switch Selector 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Box Hub for Mouse, Keyboard, Scanner, Printer, PCs with One-Button Swapping and 2 Pack USB A to A Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fzvFDbBQ43CMR

UGREEN USB Switch Selector 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Box Hub for Mouse, Keyboard, Scanner, Printer, PCs with One-Button Swapping and 2 Pack USB A to A Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LetxCb5PMB74X

Here is what I use.

UGREEN USB Switch Selector 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB 2.0 Peripheral Switcher Box Hub

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.nxPCbW11KDFT

Switch:

Sabrent USB 2.0 Sharing Switch for Multiple Computers and Peripherals LED Device Indicators (USB-SW20) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TZKGVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t649Bb4FW6XYW


Dock:

Wavlink USB 3.0 Universal Docking Station, Dual Video Monitor Display HDMI & DVI/VGA with Gigabit Ethernet, Audio, 6 USB Ports for Laptop, Ultrabook and PCs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019XOJ874/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xa59Bb94AR8W8


Alternatively: if your monitors can handle the audio input/output and also the usb, you may just be able to rout all your peripherals via the monitors and skip this whole mess.

AFAIK these are the ones I used at my last job, and they were bomb - most reliable ones I ever used - work without the monitor being plugged in if I recall correctly. I believe they get power from just a single USB being plugged into them - but I never used them as a KB/M switch, always as a KVM, but they worked nicely even with one PC. Scroll lock scroll lock was the toggle, and it worked quite quickly.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-2-port-DisplayPort-Switch-Built/dp/B00UVH9PRQ

There are keyboard-video-mouse dongles that allow you to use a laptop as the "head" for a system. Maybe that would be ok?

The following is not an endorsement (just an example): https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Console-Portable-Laptop-Adapter/dp/B002CLKFTQ

If you don't want to/can't go the software route, I just use one of these kvm switches to share USB devices. I find it easier to work with than software, one button to switch, no constantly running services in the background.

Just for additional clarity this is what a KVM is ...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D1UTC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z7FCzb9W5KXCD

Hey, man. I found an example of the sort of equipment, at the end user level, required (and typically used) to bridge that "AIR GAP!!" between classed and unclassed content.

It's pretty technical, but it's called a "KVM switch."

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4

NSFW :)

bring a thin laptop to work and hide it behind your work computer and use a switch to switch to your laptop using this switch. I was learning to code on my thin laptop

​

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=switch+monitor&qid=1566802175&s=gateway&sr=8-15

This

or this

or this

please note i have never used any of these particular switches so please read the reviews before buying any of them.

A KVM switch is the only option that I know of. It would be a matter of finding one that supports the correct outputs, a KVM switch such as This one should work

I wish it was a tiny bit faster (takes like 4 seconds to switch, but that might be because one comp is windows 7 and the other is 10) it gets the job done

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B01MXXQKGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=25A8YDRL4YYJF&keywords=usb+switch&qid=1554604835&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+sw&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

As the titles say, the first is a hub with individual power toggles and the second is a switched (switcher) hub. Both are hubs, not switches. This would be a switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zZ4hDbBDEJA3E

To further simplify a hub is 1:X or X:1 with x being the number of inputs
A switch is 1:1 with ability to swap outputs
The combination is called a switched hub.

What you would be looking for is a KVM switch. Here's one that looks like it would work for you.

Lol, 2 games at once on the same pi; not going to happen. What you could is get an HDMI/USB kvm switch to swap the 2nd controls/screen between pi1 and pi2. Pi1 would need some sort of HDMI splitter to connect both screen1 and the kvm switch.

Terrible mockup. Red=HDMI green=USB. Sorry, im running late to work and did this on my phone

Something like this might be what you're looking for: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI

Probably something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1497423536&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+switch

You could just get a dirt cheap USB switcher. $50 for a mouse to do what software or a $15 dongle can do is a bit absurd, I agree.