Reddit mentions: The best lab chemicals

Cost Analysis

Tent Setup

$70 2' x 4' x 5' Mylar tent

• Holding up well, easy build. Is not 100% dark, light leaks outwards from spots along the zipper and pinholes but no light leak into the tent during dark. Perfect size for my light.
  
  
  $325 Lights: Horticulture Lighting Group 260 QB LED Kit
  
  
• I cannot say enough about these lights. I had to run them anywhere from 50-75% during veg to prevent light burn. Great coverage for a 2x4 tent. Nothing but praise 10/10 would buy again.
  
  
  Climate Control
  
  $100 ($90 + $10)4" Inline duct fan and Carbon Filter + Ducting/clamps from ACE
  
  
• This puppy can SUCK, I have to keep it on the lowest setting to prevent the pressure inside the tent from dropping (need to work on my passive intake next grow). Carbon filter works great. Lowers humidity in a pinch. It keeps my humidity at or below 50%, which is what it maxes out at after a watering.
  
  
  $21 Osculating Fan Purchased on a flash deal
  
  
• I have it elevated about 3-4 inches on a box. Running and osculating 24/7. It pushes air, not a jet engine though.
  
  Already on hand: Box Fan
  
  
• Had one from years ago. Sometimes I open the tent and blast this on high right on level with the buds just go shake out the leaves, gets a bit crowded in the scrog and I'd like to eliminate any humidity caught between leaves sticking together. Think you can scoop one from Walmart for like $15 bucks, $20 max. I also have room at the right edge of my tent where I normally keep the oscilating fan to drop this in and use it in a humidity pinch.
  
  $25 [Humidifier] (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sunbeam-Warm-Mist-Humidifier-SWM6000-BWM/32664862)
  
  
• This puppy does well. I use the first setting, usually can run 16+ hours on a full reservoir of H20. No filter which keeps cost down, just need to clean it one or twice a week with a brush for the hard water deposits. 5-10 minute process.
  
  $45 Dehumidifier
  
  
• This was a bit of a mistake purchase. I wanted to test and see if a small model offered on amazon (this looked to be one of the best for sub $50, and has the biggest holding tank out of them all) could put in any kind of noticeable work in a tent. What I noticed is that it will be able to roughly maintain humidity at times, after I run the exhaust fan to lower the levels. When the lights are out and the temperature drops, this thing has no chance. Go with a full size dehumidifier or rely on the dry Colorado air + passive intake + duct fan. I was struggling with humidity issues during the cold of the winter, now that I can have my windows open my ambient room humidity is usually 40% or below.
  
  $18 4" inline duct booster fan
  
  
• Also a mistake purchase. Does not move a lot of air. Had plans to use this for an airflow/passive (not) intake system but it's not worth the electricity cost to run this thing. I'd stay away.
  
  
  Meters (Ph, PPM, Soil, Temp and Humidity)
  
  $18 Hygrometer for Temp/Humidity
  
  
• Worth it to get the wireless monitor so you're not opening the tent all the time)
  
  $13 Ph Meter
  
  
• Great little Meter. Calibrated nicely and seems to be holding true. Details about storage below under the calibration Solution
  
  $12 TDS PPM meter
  
  
• Quick measurements, came with a little leather storage pouch. Can't recommend against it.
  
  $9 Soil Moisture, Light, Ph meter
  
  
• Does it's job well, reads soil Ph and moisture well and pretty instantaneously. I wouldn't recommend it for getting detailed light readings but it responds correctly.
  
  
  Ph Control and Calibration
  
  $9 Ph Control Kit
  
  $14 Ph Calibration solution
  
  
• For calibration/life of the tip:I store the tip in a bit of 7.0 solution that I pour into the cap. Good to have on hand for calibration.
  
  
  
  Plants / Growing Medium
  
  $80 Clones - $20 from dispensary. here's a link to the strain page and the clone page. Don't believe seeds are available.
  
  $8 for 6ct 5 gal Smart Pot knockoff
  
  
• Do their job, hold up well. I cut the handles off to make watering under the scrog easier.
  
  $40 - Soil: Two bags of Happy Frog purchased from the local grow store. Ocean forest was sitting around.
  
  $7 for 30ct Starter grow bags
  
  
• Do not recommend, breathe terribly, water stagnates even with modifications. Had to feed lightly and often, and really monitor dampness. Needed these for the outdoor garden anyways)
  
  $14 - Scrog net: I believe it was a 25 or a 50ft roll of 1"x1" plastic garden fencing from Home Depot.
  
  
• Unfortunately I can't find a link but it's pretty common. I cut out the middles to make them 2"x2" openings, 1x1 seems very difficult to work with and would block a lot of light.
  
  
  Nutrients
  
  $100: Cyco 1 Litre Bottles
  
  
• I have a local grow shop that I purchased a lot of these from. The 1 litre Cyco nutrient bottles ranged from $10-$18 and I have 7 different nutrients, call it $100
  
  
• Vegetative State: Grow A & B + Dr. Repair + Silica
  
  
• Flowering State: Bloom A & B + Potash Plus (+ Dr Repair and Silica every other feeding)
  
  $20: Key To Life - Uptake
  
  
• Great for calcium uptake. Was told that this could basically replace calmag.
  
  $45 Cyco Grow XL Super Phosphoric Acid
  
  
• Definitely an 'extra', not cheap for 100ml but I think the potential yield improvement from this phosphorous bomb will cover that cost, especially over 3-4 grows which I expect to get out of the bottle. Also states it helps with Fe, N and K uptake.
  
  
  
  Miscelaneous Stuff:
  
  $15 - random stuff from Walmart, etc.
  
• Eyedroppers, duct tape, zip ties
  
  $6 Spray Bottles
  
  
• Did not use these much, only very early during transplanting
  
  
  
  So to total that all out we're looking just over $1000 that I spent.
  
  
• Could have kept it under $950 if I had not purchased the small duct fan or dehumidifier.
  
• Also: Soil and nutrients for $205. Could work that down to under $150 by dropping a couple unnecessary yet desirable nutrients.
  
  
  

A comment I submitted in a different thread:

Awesome! I've had my pax over a year and I'm still loving it. It still hits like a champ and the cleaning is to me easier than its made out to be. The stealthiness of it amazing. I've told a bouncer its a portable battery or an ecig and gotten no questions. Just a heads up the very first time cooking a fresh bowl definitely smells like weed. All vaping smells some, but that first heating and first few hits are by far the strongest. After that is gets much less pungent. If I'm packing it at home before going to a venue I'm nervous about, I'll take the first 2-3 hits at home. Out of a full oven I can get 3-6 good sessions with stirring, depending on the weed and people.

Here's a couple tips I've picked up.

Be careful of the mouthpiece spring. It's deceptively strong and will launch your mouthpiece to dark places. Also, when pushing down the mouthpiece to lock it, the "sweet spot" is juuuuust before all the way down. It's hard to explain. But you can actually push the mouthpiece down too far and it won't always lock. My first time using it I was pissed because it wasn't locking. But I was pushing it too hard and past the lock point. Pushing it down lighter was the answer.

Dental brushes dipped in alcohol work great for scrubbing out the oven and mouthpiece and can be purchased at any store/pharmacy. The lube is food grade propylene glycol and can be purchased at certain stores or online for cheap. Such as http://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Pint-Free-Shipping/dp/B005F5KYM4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418272765&sr=8-3&keywords=propylene+glycol. Rub a few drops on/inside the mouthpiece tube every time you clean it to keep it from sticking.

When you're cleaning it be careful of getting the temp change button wet. If it gets wet, it will think it's on and the oven will start heating. That sucks if you are cleaning it and don't notice.

I've found its better to Charge the pax right side up with the charger on top. It helps makes sure that no resin leaks up the tube and is more stable.

If you rotate it on its long axis (doing a barrel roll) 3 times, it enters party mode and the front light flashes. This means it won't stop heating if it's kept still. Normally if it's kept still for a few seconds it goes "idle" and stops heating. The flashing light also looks pretty cool. You can also play Simon says against your pax by turning it on its long axis 7 times I think. YouTube has a good pax Simon says video with the steps. Both tricks are great when showing your pax to friends.

This post made me go look through my dad's facebook for the first time in years. Its weird. It's comforting and upsetting at the same time. I don't know if we have any videos of him, but being able to read his updates and comments really brings me back. One of his last posts was about him loving my pecan pie.

One great memory of him I have is when we went on a hike. He had back problems and needed surgery so he didn't get out much and was bedridden most of the time. He went with me so I could take photos for my photography class. The hike was so much fun. He seemed the happiest he'd been in a while that day. I ended up winning $75 and an award through my school for a photo I took that day. He was super proud cause he was really into photography too.

I also ended up taking a bunch of pictures of him and my brother that day just for a nice memory, including this one. I never would have guessed that a few months later, that would be the photo on his memorial card.


I'm so sorry about your friend as well. I hope the funeral can give you some closure. I know how tough it can be.


If I'm to win, I'd love this citric acid from my wishlist so I can make some bath bombs! Thank you for the contest!

Bit late but I wanted to add my voice in here saying Nude Nicotine's nic base is the best I've encountered but Wizard Labs is pretty good for the price (I've heard about people getting peppery batches, mine was fine). If you want, Nude offers a 15mL nic base sample to new customers for $2 (basically free, you're just paying shipping), so feel free to give that a shot - when I did it they even sent a free 4mL sample of readymade eliquid (pretty damn good btw).

If price is the overriding factor, either MFS or Heartland Vapes will be your best bet for nic base (short of ordering 200+mg/mL nic base anyway), but note that I can not speak to their quality (have not tried either).

This is the VG I'm using, and this is the PG I'm using and I'm perfectly happy with those purchases. Sure it seems like a lot, but it's easy enough to divy them up into packer bottles and stow them in your freezer, and at that rate they'll last as long as you need them to.

Hope this helps!

I started mixing back in January, and here's the list of the items I got off of Amazon to get set up:

• Scale
  
  
• Vegetable Glycerin(VG) Originally I just bought the quart size, but wound up needing a gallon fairly quick. If you're mixing at any ratio of 70VG/30PG or higher you will too.
  
  
• Propylene Glycol(PG) I'm still on my first quart, and I've mixed a LOT of juice! I'll probably need another here in the next few months, but until then I really don't have the space to store a gallon of PG.
  
  
• Pipettes Great for adding nicotine to your mixes and for those flavors that don't come in bottles with droppers.
  
  
• Small Mixer This little beauty works great for mixing directly in the bottle. Sure, shaking your mixes is fine, but when you're doing multiple 50 ml or 120 ml bottles, shit gets old REAL quick. The plastic wand is the secret. It's got a split down the middle which allows the two halves to spread when it gets up to speed. All I need to fully mix is 15-30 seconds of this at full speed and the bottle is well homogenized.
  
  There's a few incidentals, such as nitrile gloves, eye protection(You do NOT want nicotine in your eyes!) paper towels. Bottles! How could I forget bottles?!? Again, Amazon to the rescue-just head over to 510 Central's storefront They've got some of the best HDPE bottles on Amazon-Nice and squeezy but firm. If glass is more your thing, I'm sure there's a bunch of those on Amazon too.
  
  Here's a little tip I use: When mixing, put your VG and PG in some condiment-style bottles(I picked up a couple at a craft store in the candy making dept) When you're mixing in small bottles, it saves time and mess to pour from a squeeze bottle than a syringe. Syringes and VG don't work too well-It's like sucking snot up a straw.
  
  I'm also going to say head over to /r/DIY_eJuice and read up on mixing. There's a TON of great info in the sidebar-READ ALL OF IT. When you get ready to start mixing, pick 2 or 3 recipes that sound good and buy the flavors for those. It's a lot easier and less expensive than buying a slew of flavors that sound great but don't play well with others. Enjoy!

Hey! I love the purple pax! The only accessories I use are rubbing alcohol, cotton pipe cleaners, and alcohol wipes. Oh, and lubricant. I did an Internet search for the lubricant, it's propylene glycol. I found a pint of it on amazon for $8. (That will last forever.)

http://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Pint-Free-Shipping/dp/B005F5KYM4

Here is a video on how to apply the lubricant. I tend to lube it after every cleaning.

http://youtu.be/W6-IcN6segw

Every pax comes with a small amount of cleaning supplies, but they really didn't last long for me. Cleaning is a little tedious, but it vapes so much more easily when it's clean. Here is a good video about how to clean it.

http://youtu.be/Cowj6W1qxjQ

I find that 10 days is the absolute longest I can go without cleaning it, and that's with daily use. And honestly, I should probably tend to it more like once a week.

Regarding cute accessories, there are some really cute pouches for Pax on etsy!

https://www.etsy.com/market/pax_vaporizer_case

Good luck with whatever you decide to go with! :) sorry for all the links, I'm on my ipad and watching The World's End and can't bring myself to do proper formatting right now) ;)

First, watch this, then come back: How to make your own E-Liquid : Mixing by Weight - DIY Tutorial I hate youtube tutorials, and I still recommend this, so seriously, watch it.

Now, a warning. You can spend a tiny amount to start DIY, or you can just take the plunge and spend a good chunk, but be set for a while and the cost per ml drops even more.

So you'll need supplies. Other than nicotine and flavorings, Amazon works pretty well.

• Pipettes For adding nicotine, everything else we'll put in squeeze bottles.
  
• Scale
  
• VG
  
• PG
  
  I put my PG and VG into some squeeze bottles I found at wal-mart for $0.97. Makes dispensing them super easy (just like in the video). You can also find them on Amazon for slightly more, but Walmart is on the way to work, so I just stopped there.
  
  I put my flavors into dripper bottles, which I got from Heartland Vapes, but that only works if you want 100+. Free shipping is at $75, so I also threw flavors into my orders, since I'd need them anyway. Personally, I started with single flavor juices that I knew I'd like. I ordered a lot from MtBakerVapor, and most of their flavors are just single flavor FlavorWest (FW) stuff, so I grabbed them. I made those for a month, then I started buying more flavors (like my favorite, TFA Chai). Now I'm adding more flavors into my juices, judging on what I think would work well (it doesn't always). Start simple, then build on what you learn.
  
  Buy some nicotine from your preferred vendor, if you want nicotine in your juice.
  
  Then wait impatiently while USPS loses your package in San Diego, CA, during which you can download the calculator and experiment with it. The bottom calculator on the side bar is amazing. Now you're going, "Crap, I gotta weigh my liquids!". Well, not really. You can take the specific gravities off the manufacturer data sheets (sometimes there, sometimes right, don't trust the ones from FW), google them, or ask here and someone probably has them. Or, you can use the built-in weights for PG and VG, and then set your flavors to 1ml = 1g. It's close enough.
  
  Most of all, remember to have fun.
  
  Quick tip: Better not enough flavor than too much. Too much flavoring mutes the flavor, not enhances, and spearmint burns your lips when you add too much. You can always add more, you can't take away.
  

Tips.

1. I don't recommend a kit, but that's just me.
   
2. Mix by weight. Buy this scale https://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Scales-LB-501-Digital/dp/B005UGBG20/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474497797&sr=8-3&keywords=Digital+scale&refinements=p_89%3ADigital+Scale%7CAmerican+Weigh+Scales. The 500g one, not the others. You want 0.01g precision.
   
3. Don't buy random flavors. Pick one or two juices over at http://e-liquid-recipes.com that sound good to you and have a good rating. Buy the flavors to make those.
   
4. Buy your VG and PG here. https://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-Quart/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1474497923&sr=8-2&keywords=vegetable+glycerine and https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-Propylene-Glycol-Quart/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=pd_sim_121_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D735R4MZTM0WJN6VZ840
   
5. Get some pipettes. Plastic Transfer Pipettes 1ml, Graduated, Pack of 500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CD2I50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_77W4xb3TT4MQX
   
6. Get good nicotine. I like Carolina Xtracts and Nude Nicotine
   
7. Read everthing here. https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY_eJuice/wiki/diy_beginners_guide
   
8. Read the everything here. https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY_eJuice/comments/3lu9gx/nicotine_need_to_know_all_your_questions_answered/
   
9. Read eveything here. https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY_eJuice/wiki/verified_vendors
   
10. Watch this. https://youtu.be/EMEY5L46b18
    
11. Wear protective gloves if you buy high percentage nicotine solution!
    
12. Enjoy your freedom. You're right, it is fun to do. And easy. My wife calls it vaking :)
    

I have been getting my PG and VG from Amazon. Its cheap and if you have prime it gets there super fast.

I use the essential depot VG, and PG. I get them quarts at a time for like 11-13 bucks apiece and that shit lasts a long time. You will go through more VG than PG usually.

I used to get my nicotine from wizard labs but I recently started using nude nicotine, I recommend it. In the DIY sub youll see a shit ton of vendors and a bunch of brands people swear by. Thats the part that can be overwhelming.

you can get bottles so many fucking places, if you just want a few amazon will do you right, wizard labs has em. Lately I have been just getting them from fasttech cause they are decent bottles (plastic) and they are cheap as fuck. when searching for bottles a good tip to have is 1/2oz bottles are 15mls and 1oz bottles are 30mls,

https://www.onestopdiyshop.com/ is a pretty awesome place.
http://wholesale.heartlandvapes.com/ is nice too.

For just starting you dont need much, PG, VG, NIc, Bottles, Flavors, Get a couple of 1ml and 3ml Syringes, and some 14g needle tips for VG based shit, and 18G tips for PG based shit.

My mixes are mostly VG, so I get my nicotine in VG Carrier base. I think I have pretty much covered most beginner info. I hope you decide to check it out its pretty rewarding and fucking fun.

Come hang out, Lurk about or whatever


I forgot you will also want to use a ejuice calculator, I use the POTV ejuice calculator on my phone it works well and its free. Its in the Android and iOs store. Peace!

I don't know how well I can answer your questions, as I'm new to lead issues and abatement. You've probably educated yourself on a lot of what I'm going to say, but I'm going to throw it all in this comment, anyway.

I live in a 110 year old house that is basically a ball of lead. The plumbing had lead joints, the service line is old and lead, the windows have lead, the doors have lead, the walls have lead, and the city is concerned that our water mains are shedding lead. And now, my child has a very slightly elevated lead level. Prompted by her most recent blood test, we are attempting a sensible lead abatement plan for our home.

First, figure out where the lead is. You can pick up water testing kits as well as swabs for surfaces. Once you know where the lead is, you can assess your risk and choose an abatement plan.

For instance, we have a small amount of lead in our water, which is likely a consequence of the service line. We got a bid for replacing it, and that was about $10k, plus the cost of fixing the yard that would be torn up. We went with a 10 year filter for the whole house, and that was about $900 including tax and installation.

Use the surface swabs on your windows that were installed before 1980, and if you have woodwork that was painted white, check that, too. It became popular to paint dark woodwork white in the 50s/60s to brighten up houses, and people used lead paint. We have solid wood doors and a ton of trim that is absolutely smothered in many coats of paint, and sure enough, it's super leady.

With windows, the act of opening and closing the windows can cause friction on the paint, which produces inhalable dust. If your family isn't experiencing significantly elevated lead levels, you have the option to simply wipe down the windows with a damp cloth to remove the dust. If you are more concerned, have the budget, or just want new windows, you can replace them. Check to see if your local municipality has a lead abatement grant for windows. In my city, they offer a $350/window grant to replace windows that test positive for lead (along with a few other qualifiers), and that really puts a dent in that cost.

With other painted surfaces, you're likely to be fine with encapsulation, which is a fancy way of saying painting over it. Lead is only really dangerous if you inhale the dust or eat the chips, so if you paint over it, it can't create dust. This will likely mean that you'll need to do a little scraping, which will obviously create dust, so you need to use a quality mask, and then clean like mad when you are done. Wet mop, dry dusting/sweeping is not good enough.

I'm in the process of restoring the woodwork because I prefer a stained finish, and for all the trim that isn't especially decorative or historically significant, I'm just replacing it. For our lovely doors, I sent them out to be dip stripped because it just wasn't worth the risk of my daughter sucking in all the dust while I removed the paint.

Because I have a young child, I'm not fucking around with lead, but the majority of people with lead paint in their homes are going to be just fine if they don't sand lead paint, carefully wipe up the dust with a wet cloth in areas that have lead paint (like windows), and prime/paint over the lead paint.

I'm also on a cistern and use commercial whole-house filters in 2 stages. Stage 1 is a "pre-clean" sediment filter and stage 2 is a carbon filter that helps remove cysts and odors. The pre-filtering helps the more expensive carbon filters last longer. I also have an automatic chlorinator and contact tank for added disinfection (could also use UV) and a RO filter for drinking water. The RO is overkill since water tests fine from the tap (good idea to test periodically!), but peace of mind and all. To maintain a good flow rate, I use 2 filters in parallel for each stage (4 total). It's all easily put together with PVC. I don't have first flush and water can get pretty dirty, but after filtering it's very clean and odor free. Filters typically last about 3 months before the pressure drops too low (for 2 people, so maybe 1 month for you?) and have to be replaced. High efficiency sink and shower fittings help reduce water usage and the effects of the lower pressure. I have the pump run up to 60psi to max out the filter life.

• Filter housings - I like the clear ones to see how dirty filters are getting and also shows how much filth the filters are capturing. Might want to pick up a couple extra housings since they need to be cleaned and cleaning is much easier with running water. I also use gasket grease and a filter wrench (they can get tight).
  
  
• Sediment filter - stage 1
  
  
• Carbon filter - stage 2 - The 0.5 micron removes cysts (things that can make you sick like Giardia and Cryptosporidium)
  
  
• Test kit
  
  
• Shower head
  
  
  
  

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-824-1L-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C

It looks like it was in a flood or fire. Odds are the person turned it on and fried it. Your best bet is to save the cpu, the gpus by stripping them down. The motherboard is cheap to get, the ram is probably indestructible... forget the psu exists. You need to really clean the parts well to get the contaminants off. Head to walmart and get gallon jugs of distilled water, and just clean it really really well.

Do you have access to a large ultrasonic cleaner? Fill it with isopropyl and turn it on outside (so there's no fire and explosion risk).

After you use the alcohol to drive the water out, I would clean the gpus twice as the ram is bga, and get a can of pcb contact cleaner and blast it with that when totally done.

I'm pretty sure you can salvage the gpus if the caps are solid caps.

Keep us posted, this looks like fun.

Trying to extract your own phosphoric acid without a lab and appropriate training would be idiotic, but you easily can buy food-grade phosphoric acid.

They sell it on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Quart-950ml-Grade-Phosphoric-Remover/dp/B00KC74ETO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413237356&sr=8-1&keywords=phosphoric+acid#productDetails

pH probes are not expensive, either: http://www.amazon.com/American-Marine-PINPOINT-pH-Probe/dp/B001EHJO64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413237550&sr=8-1&keywords=ph+probe

I'm not saying put it behind your bar and jigger it out into your drinks, but is there really that much risk from getting some appropriate safety equipment and diluting this down and mixing it with some sodium citrate, a common ingredient in molecular gastronomy for reducing acidity? I have used sodium citrate to increase the ph of several of my drinks with no issues.

As long as you have a very accurate scale, it is not hard to calculate the appropriate ratios and then mix them. Just make sure you wear some durable rubber gloves and some goggles. Spend a little time googling about lab safety.

Admittedly, this acid is EXTREMELY strong, but as long as you have respect for the chemicals you're handling, it is quite safe to manipulate these things at home. Even if you haven't done anything like this before, I think you could reasonably spend an afternoon on this project, and come away with a viable solution (no pun intended) to your acid phosphate problem.

All? Every store in my area has a water refill station. In my area it's near the coffee section. I'm not sure how much it costs, but it's way cheaper than buying bottled water.

That being said, why not just get water from the tap? If you're worried your water might be unsafe (most likely it's just fine), then test it. A quick search found this affordable test kit, which will tell you if you need to get a more comprehensive test done. Most likely you'll be well within safe standards and can safely use your city water.

Personally, I use a filter at home because I don't like the taste of our water. We have hard water, and there are still traces of something after our water softener. Our water is perfectly safe to drink, but a filter makes it much more palatable, so we use one. It's way cheaper than bottled water and way more convenient.

You can get powdered MC for quite cheap on Amazon. I bought a pound (like this) and still have a lot left after years of using it. It's very difficult to mix it by hand, so I use an immersion blender. I don't measure it out, but I can tell you I start with a cup or two of water, add a spoonful, blend, and keep adding and blending until I like the consistency. You want it to have a thick, viscous, gluey consistency that won't leave your paper sodden but it still needs to be thin enough to easily spread.

I wouldn't recommend dipping, instead brush it on in a thin layer. You can use brushes but your fingers will work just fine. MC dissolves readily in water and isn't hard to clean up afterwards. Work on a hard, flat, clean surface. It's ok to rest MC treated origami on a surface, if it sticks it can be carefully peeled off without damage.

The moisture in the MC will affect the paper as you work and cause parts to splay apart, so you'll likely want to use binder clips and the like to hold parts in place after treatment. This is particularly true on thin appendages with lots of layers. On parts like this where you want the layers to adhere to each other, you can even brush MC between the layers. If the model is becoming too difficult to work with you may want to stop, let it dry, then continue to work on the remainder.

After your MC dries, the paper will be more sculptable and you can continue to apply shaping. You can apply a little water to make portions of the piece more pliable again and can even apply additional MC to parts as needed.

Here's a frilled lizard I folded a while back, with a "before" pic of the model drying after MC application below it. You can also see the liberal use of binder clips and how the back leg I didn't clip was splaying apart from the moisture.

I totally sympathize! With my latest ex, I started getting yeast infections almost every time we had sex. It was horrible! He'd had a male yeast infection before we met, so I think maybe he was carrying some strain that threw my internal balance into chaos.

I tried all sorts of remedies, but the only thing that touched it was boric acid. There are some good instructions on this website. This is one of those old folk remedies that actually works quite well, and it not dangerous as long as you don't use it on broken skin or during your period. As the article says, DO NOT TAKE BY MOUTH. It is to be used as a suppository only!!!

I bought this powder and some 00 capsules. Insert a capsule right before bed so you're laying flat and everything tends to stay inside. Wear a light pad, because there may be some extra clear fluid in the morning. Not much, just your vagina's mucus membranes responding what's going on, and the melted capsule remains may also come out, though sometimes those seem to absorb or melt into everything else.

Best of luck, and I genuinely hope you find a solution soon.

On that starter kit you mentioned... It's fine, but it isn't the best route if you think you might stick with this.

First up, read up on mixing by weight. /u/Botboy141 has a fantastic write up on it. It ends up being cheaper and faster long term versus mixing with syringes. Take into account that you should use different syringes for each flavor and you'll have to clean them after use... The cleaning murders the time mixing and that kit doesn't have many syringes, so you'll be cleaning a lot.

A break down for you on mixing by weight... It isn't 100% I'd bet, but it should be close enough.
Scale: 16.99 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012TEQMG - this is the one I have, but the auto shut off is a friggin annoyance. Pick up the one Botboy141 recommends for the extra 14 or so dollars. So let's go with 30
Pipettes: 10.00 for 500 1ml. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CD2I50
10 for 200 3ml (you can probably find a better price) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IQTSE0
Dispensing bottles x2: 7.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B5139AG
Pg: 13.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F5OJG6
Vg: 13.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C7MTLA
Nicotine: 100mg/120ml 19.00 http://www.nudenicotine.com/product/500ml-100mgml-100-pg-nicotine-base-for-mixing-only/ 50 30ml ldpe bottles: 11.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F098JJA

$113, call it 130 with some shipping here and there.

Now add flavors, assuming you get 50 bucks of 8ml vials from wizard labs and you're running closer to 200. This will get you a good bunch of juice and the next time around you'll probably get 4oz bottles of your favorite flavors and maybe some more pg vg nic and possibly pipettes. It's worth the money, but syringes will be cheaper up start costs. You'd probably save about 70 bucks to start, but it'll cost you in frustration and time, which isn't worth the pain from all I remember with them.
Edit: I say wizard only because of the sample size of the vials... You can use bull city, tfa and lorann direct for 4oz and up on a bunch, or any other vendor really. But 50 in wizard with shipping will probably get you 25 or 30 vials.

Syringes will take away the scale and dispensing bottles and pipettes, so 60 bucks actually, and you'll add about 30 back in a bunch of 1ml, a few 3 or 5 and a couple of 10 for pg/vg and14ga blunt needles.

Hopefully that helps a bit. I can reformat it later on the computer if need be.

Hey man, I would love to help you quit smoking and didn't notice the first time I commented that you didn't have any experience with vaping. So I'm going to try to put together a list here of what you need to do to start vaping for very little money.

1. A mod. I am suggesting this mod because it is very simple and fairly cheap.
   
   https://www.vapordna.com/Joyetech-eGo-AIO-All-In-One-Starter-Kit-p/egoaio.htm
   
   This is another option for you.
   
   https://www.vapordna.com/Eleaf-iCare-All-In-One-Ultra-Portable-System-p/icaref.htm
   
   I love my Icare, but you will need to use high (24-36) mg ejuice with it, whereas with the ego you would need 12-24 mg/ml.
   
   
2. Eliquid making basics.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005UGBG20/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210602&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PSGWHIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210630&sr=8-2&keywords=vg
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K8UB5VO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210666&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pg
   
   
   https://www.nudenicotine.com/product/500ml-100mgml-100-pg-nicotine-base-for-mixing-only/?attribute_size=120mL&attribute_solvent=100%25+PG
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081SRRFO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210749&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dropper+bottle
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IQTSE0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488210793&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pippettes+plastic+droppers
   
   OPTIONAL: flavoring. If you want flavoring just ask in a reply I'll let you know what to get based on your tastes, but it's not necessary and you're trying to go cheap.
   
   This is the recipe for making flavorless, 12 mg juice.
   
   http://e-liquid-recipes.com/recipe/1240996/For+cheapos
   
   You can make an account at that site and adapt that recipe to be higher or lower nicotine if you want.
   
   I know this seems a lot more expensive than the Ryo cigarettes, but trust me, this makes like a year or two worth of liquid and the mods I suggested have really cheap coils. Please believe me, this is worth every penny of the investment, you will never regret it. If you need help with mixing your first batch of eliquid, go to r/diy_ejuice and look at the new mixer thread in the sidebar. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask me, but comment it cause I don't get message notifications on my phone app.

I really appreciate you taking the time to give your professional opinion on this. I've been torn with the huge difference in price. I'd ultimately like to get this all controlled by a smart PID microcontroller and I think accuracy on the freeze point/purity will be important at that point.

In terms of purity, how will the documentation compare to a brix reading? I imagine those are two very different factors but it is worth asking.

Secondly, is it true or false that the glycol should be replaced ~yearly? If so, that is definitely tougher to swallow but I'd like to know either way.

​

I was originally looking at: https://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Food-Grade-Gallon/dp/B00GI2CIQS

​

Some comments:

2 You are looking for an Ego Threaded Beauty Ring.

3 You can also buy MUCH better tanks like an Evod for cheap and they have replaceable coils so they are worth the investment. I personally have had better luck with something like a protank or BDC, but anything with replaceable coils will be a big step forward. Also the better build construction means less leaking.

4 PEG-400 is not really an ideal base for any ejuice. It has a bad taste and does not carry flavors very well. You would have much better luck using Vegetable Glycerin or Propylene Glycol.

Hmm, I'd be shocked if one of us discovered a substance we could get at home that would create an as-of-yet-undiscovered precipitation reaction that would precipitate chloramine out of water! The reaction with citric acid you mentioned, is another one I now remember I've heard. All the points you make are right on, so if you figure something out, let us know! BUT the first step in my mind is finding a way to verify any potential results, so we're back to a cost effective way of measuring chloramine levels in a given water sample.

The cheap test strips for drinking water and aquariums seem to only test for chlorine (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBMAVQ/)($13), and the expensive ones seem to indicate they CAN be calibrated to check for chloramine (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4TFU1I/) ($1,099). This seems made specifically to test for chloramine, but it's unavailable (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3EF7ZY/).

I'll bet small quantities of citric acid are fine, and small amount of humic acids are definitely beneficial (humic acid is naturally occurring in compost and is great for soil). How much is too much, idk, since I don't add any directly/intentionally.

If you buy even 5 30mL bottles a month of premium juice, just use that money at the start to BUILD A KIT. Don't buy one, they all have shit flavors that will turn you off to DIY. Almost all nicotine vendors sell diluted nicotine that you can just mix with flavors, but it's not a cost-efficient purchase. If you want to save money, buy 120mL of 100mg($19 at nudenicotine) nicotine and dilute it yourself. A gallon of VG is $14.49. Find a few recipes with good feedback here and order the flavors for them from bullcityvapor, gremlindiy, or ecigexpress. If you don't mind the extra work, and want to save a bit more, buy syringes instead of a scale, and clean and reuse the syringes.

YES!! I am on the boric acid bandwagon too!

The best part about boric acid is that it treats both BV and yeast infections. It is easy to get, you don't need an Rx, and it is not an antibiotic so you don't have all the side effects. It is not hippie pseudoscience. It has been scientifically studied and proven effective 70% of the time. I've not had BV, but I do get yeast infections a few times a year and boric acid has cured them every time.

Buy this on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9WY0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TWtGxb2V3EV12 as well as size 00 empty capsule casings. Fill up the capsules with the powder and shove one as far into your vagina as possible right before bed. Do this for 7 nights. Wear a pad because there will be some discharge.

You can then use them once or twice a week indefinitely to keep the bacteria balanced. Many people find relief from this. I highly, highly recommended it.

case (pouch)

flower vial(s)

mlfb finishing grinder you can use a regular grinder and hold it upside down to grind finer, but the finishing grinder is beautiful and short enough to fit in my case.

edit: amazon lube

amazon pipe cleaners

case and vials above are smell safe. my every day carry is that bag with the pax, two jyarz (one for fresh one for abv), the finishing grinder, and a couple extra pipe screens in case i am a klutz.

oh also a stirring tool.

Can't believe no one's thought of [propylene glycol] (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol) yet. It's very safe but can literally be used as antifreeze. LD50 is very high - [>20g/kg in rats] (http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927239), miscible with water, generally recognized as safe by the FDA, and you can buy it "kosher food grade" on Amazon. Oh yeah, it's also a little sweet and is even marketed as those [Mio fit water additives] (http://www.makeitmio.com/), which means they could've gone out, bought a bunch and mixed it with water and then put it in the freezer.

I don't think microfiber is anti static but I could be wrong. Look on amazon or other sites. You can find them pretty cheap there. If you use an anti static wristabnd, you can reduce the chances but not completely eliminate them. Like if you're just using your hands, then there's no problem. But cloth will still have some chance of charge going through. I use compressed air cans.

Look at these. They're not what I use but they should work just fine.

Foooit - Air Duster (Dust Remover/Compressed Air) (White) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00JZME5BE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5oRMBb0EB9AS3

3M CL600 Anti-Static Electronic Equipment Cleaner (10oz) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B0000V1A7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cqRMBbPWCMNSE

Cero Iso Propyl Alcohol 99 Percent Pure [(Ch3)2-Ch-Oh] Cas: 67-63-0 (250ml) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01FD6EMNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DrRMBbK8ECZEE

NIKS IPA Iso-Propyl Alcohol 99.9% [(CH3)2-CH-OH] CAS: 67-63-0, 250ml https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07887GYYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TrRMBbKQ704HC

The isopropyl alcohol really doesn't matter as long as its 90% and above. 99% is the best one available. But you can use 90% and above without any problems. You can also find them at your local medical shop. If you need more help, don't hesitate to ask.

Recently got a pH meter. It came with some powder to create calibration solutions, which I plan to do this weekend. I've read a lot that I should keep the probe wet in between uses. Do you guys use water or the buffer solution? When I was looking at buying additional calibration solution I found this set that includes a storage solution of potassium chloride. Is that necessary? Any pH meter advice is welcome! Thanks!

I bought this one and some calibration solution.

Whenever I use it I do a triple point calibration first. The most important part of any measuring instrument is the calibration. Cheap meters' calibrations drift with time but it takes days. I calibrate when I heat my strike water.

Be patient, let the meter sit in the solution for at least a minute, stirring a little and make sure to make all your measurements at calibration temperature. Don't trust the automatic temperature correction, just take all measurements at the same temperature.

Cheap meters can normally be stored dry but it will definitely affect the lifetime of the meter. You can use storage solution but you have to be certain about the type of storage solution for your electrode.

The solid red light you are having is the temperature-light issue. Make sure you clean it regularly, and leave it upside down (oven at the bottom) so that the piece stays as clean as possible.

I will buy some mouthpiece lubricant (or just Propylene Glycol (Amazon Link)) to lubricate the mouth piece connection part thoroughly. You don't need a lot, but make sure it is lubed up in the connection part. It always solves my temp-light issues.

Make sure to checkout the wiki in this subreddit on how to clean the pax.

Ill always recommend #1 but I have seen other people suggest #2 as a safe alternative.

1. Pax Official Site
   
   
2. Amazon Merchant
   
   Before you make your decision on using an alternative take heed of this warning from Ploom (source: some site called "Rich Malley's blog", but it seems like a legit CSR Reply):
   
   >Regarding my suggestion that AstroGlide is an acceptable substitute for the lube they offer for purchase, Ploom pointed out that if a Pax owner damages her vaporizer by using anything other than their officially approved lubricant, she could void her 10yr. warranty.
   
   

Yeah that's not too bad. Of course you can get 1000ml of concentrate for $45! We bought 120ml of concentrate from three sources (1, 2, 3) to compare and she didn't notice a big difference between them. They've all been in the freezer since and still taste fine 3 years later (actually one of them is completely gone and the other 2 are getting pretty low).

I just started with an online calculator and went from there; it's easy to get to whatever % you normally vape at.

I found out quickly that plastic syringes suck - they wear out and the eliquid melts the markings off. So I got a few glass syringes off of ebay (though really I've only ever needed one).

Initially I was super-careful with the nicotine concentrate as it can be fatal in really small doses, but after handling it a bit I realized it's actually very safe and easy to handle. Unless you squirt it in your eye or mouth you aren't going to have a problem - but you definitely need to keep it away from children and pets.

Then a few glass dropper bottles, PG and VG.

Whenever she's getting low she'll order a few different flavorants (usually from here) in 10ml bottles. I rarely mix flavors as it's simpler not to - just dump a full 10ml bottle into a dropper bottle, add 4-6ml of nicotine concentrate, then around 20ml each of PG/VG. Let it sit a week and it's ready to use.

Na. It comes with some calibration buffer. Calibrate it when you get it and it's golden. I've since bought some 3 stage buffer to make sure ph is accurate. The three stage buffer came with some storage solution but I don't use it. Just clean the testing end off after each use and it's fine.

edit: Here's the buffer solution if there's any interest.

Here's a recipe that, based on the reviews section, is incredibly effective and only takes a few days. The key ingredient is boric acid, and the reviewers talk about it being available near the "band-aid" section of drug stores/Walmarts/etc. I'm not sure how much it would be in those stores, but there are some options on Amazon for about $7-$10 (like this one). If you end up using this, don't put it somewhere like a counter because the ants will be swarming it.

I hope this helps you! I saw this recipe several weeks ago and thought "That could definitely come in handy someday."

Hey dude! I purchased a starter kit when I started making E-juice, and while it was helpful I quickly realized that I could of gotten more for less had I known what I needed. It is a lot cheaper to just buy the products individually since you will also be getting a larger amount too. Here are some links and in my opinion this is the cheapest way for someone to start DIY:


VG- https://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-Quart/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1480546689&sr=8-2&keywords=vegetable+glycerine


PG- https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-Propylene-Glycol-Quart/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480546865&sr=8-3&keywords=propylene+glycol


Gloves- https://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Glove-Industrial-Disposable-Thickness/dp/B01MZZ0FHO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480546913&sr=8-2&keywords=nitrile+gloves


Syringes- https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Refilling-E-Liquids-Applicator/dp/B01HFTYINS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480546884&sr=8-6&keywords=blunt+tip+syringe


Nicotine- https://www.nudenicotine.com/products-page/unflavored-nicotine-base/

And as for bottles it is all up to you I personally buy mine from http://wholesale.heartlandvapes.com/eliquid-bottles/plastic-eliquid-bottles.html

*Lastly all you need is flavorings, I think it would be best for you to search around and find what you like, I personally prefer http://gremlindiy.com/ and http://www.bullcityflavors.com/ . Hope this helped!

You can. I prefer to buy it off Amazon though TBH.

I buy Essential Depot Vegetable Glycerin And Propylene Glcyol

No reason I just like to stick with one company.

Heres The DIY Clone list. The all loved Nana Cream is on there and Im vaping it now and its wonderful. I think enough flavoring to make like 120ml was $10???? Cant remember off the top of my head.

This one, First Alert WT1 Drinking Water Test Kit. The guy at the environmental test company said those kits aren't really sensitive enough to get more than a "that's pretty good" or "that's pretty bad" despite the results you get. He said they tend to be consistent, though, so if you get good results you should be good, and if you get bad results, you should call someone like him. If you get fuzzy results, it comes down to how strongly you feel about getting it officially tested.

Nic river is cheap, haven't used it but have heard only good things. I use essential depot, if you buy direct from them you can get pretty good discounts on a couple gallons.

I use Essential Depot on Amazon they are top notch. Super cheap. Ship crazy fast. I only found it one time at Wal-Mart and used a small bottle. Aslong as the proper grades ans safety checks are on the bottle you'll be fine!! Hope that helps.

Yeah, the "flammable tap water" thing was from up in my area, Weld County. The situation was that all of these folks used well water for their houses, and they had higher-than-normal levels of methane gas in their water. It was a big hit with the local media, but the kerfluffle died out not too long afterwards.

I think you'll find a lot of information if you check out Denver Water's page on Water Quality - they provide information on the treatment process and the results of their tests. You can probably also request the water test results in print (In Greeley, we get them once a year with our water bills).

All in all, I've lived here a long time, and I've never had a problem with our water anywhere. In my opinion, it seems like municipalities in Colorado are much more concerned with water and water quality than in other places in the US I've lived previously. Heck, Coors even advertises that their beer is brewed with fresh "cold Rocky Mountain water"!

Feel safe with your water. If you're still concerned (or want to prove to your mom that the water's safe), you can always buy a water testing kit, although I don't know how accurate or effective they are, never having used one myself.

Boric Acid helps with odor, plus it's safe & inexpensive. I've had good experience with it personally. Worth a shot! Also: It's an effective remedy for vaginitis and yeast infections (when used as a vaginal suppository).

P.S. the link is to a brand of Boric Acid I've used.

> make sure it says USP on it and you're good

USP at minimum, Kosher is even better... USP is pharmaceutical grade but that could mean topical, like for a hand lotion... Kosher means that it's pure pure and it's intended to be ingested / used internally.

Don't know if they ship to Canada, but +1 on the Amazon sourcing...

Propylene Glycol 1 Quart

Glycerin Vegetable Kosher USP - 1 Quart

Get mechanical grade alcohol, 99%, get it in the pressurized spray can, and regular bottle. Disassemble the GPU and get any parts that got coolant on them out of the system.

Get a clean plastic container that can fit the parts you've gotten wet. Put the alcohol in there from the non pressurized n bottle. Place parts in bath of alcohol, use the pressurized alcohol and qtips to clean your parts. Once done, let dry for at least 48 hours in front of a fan.

I've recovered an entire x99 system this way. Good luck.

Edit

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/

Spray

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8PL1Q

I ended up not ordering a kit, just nic + pg/vg and some syringes from NudeNicotine and some flavorings from WizardLabs.

Right now WizardLabs nicotine (120ml of 100mg/ml) is cheaper than Nude's (cheaper shipping too) so I'd grab nic from there while it's on sale. To save on shipping order flavorings from there. They're only 8ml, but they'll give you an idea of how they taste. To go bigger you'll probably have to order directly from the company (The Flavor Apprentice, Capella, Inawera, Flavor Art, Flavor West, etc).

Order PG/VG from Amazon. Essential Depot is like $13 for 940ml of PG or VG.

Syringes/bottles can be had a lot of places, I'd just get them from wizardlabs if you're getting nic from there.

HeartlandVapes also has good prices on bottles, syringes, nic (same price as wizardlabs), and bigger bottles of flavoring. Never ordered from them, but have seen them recommended a lot.

It's pretty easy to clean this.


ESD circuit board brushes: http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Handle-Circuit-Static-Brushes/dp/B00BM38YPW


99.95% Alcohol: http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/

Distilled Water can be used as well, just give it a few days to dry out.

Dip the brushes in the alcohol, don't just add the alcohol to the board, you'll end up using too much.

Make sure to wait an hour or so to guarantee that its all evaporated.

> It's not easy to get aluminium this small

Made a crapton of it in high school 25 years ago with a drill, a 1/2" aluminum rod, and a bastard file. Took a while, but it was pretty fine powder. Any more, you don't even need that. It's $23 for 2lbs on Amazon

>Rust isn't ideal as it doesn't tend to be pure iron oxide.

It is when you decompose a chunk of wrought iron in a solution of sodium bicarbonate and water using a model train transformer. But again, not really necessary nowadays with it being $13.50 for 5lbs on Amazon

Wow, take a look at the "Customers Who Bought This Item Also Bought" section for those two products. It's a complete grocery list for juvenile miscreants. Even has the magnesium ribbon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TA9RHWQ?psc=1

Looks like I know where I'm getting my next bottle!

Then again, I feel like I'm on a list now or something for even looking at buying a gallon of flammable liquid off the internet... Thank you, Patriot Act lmao

Amazon has it in amounts from 1 pint to 5 gallons. Dunno about you, but they ship to me pretty quick. And no probing questions.

But NSA WILL know! :)

(EDIT): Also, I posted this link a little while ago that has some good information about PG labelling, so you'll know what you are buying.

That's a really broad question; you're doing a good job, here, by asking specifically for what you need help with. Sadly "how do I get the belt on there" has a broad answer - you just have to keep disassembling until you see a way through.

I really don't mean to be snarky or rude.

"Water based solutions to clean the inside" where did you get this strange notion?

For general cleaning, use 99% isopropyl.

For contacts and switches, use Deoxit.

Basically - if you have specific questions, then people can do their best to help you. There isn't any "HERE'S HOW TO FIX OLD TAPE DECKS" guide out there.

Yes, there are those but you mentioned filters. I find the big bottles of water to be overwhelmingly more common, and you can just flip a coin as to whether the company that bottles it follow regulations. I'm actually taking this back from meiguo to make sure the company my school buys from is okay, as I've noticed the plastic circles you punch through have become almost too easy to open recently and one was already opened when it was delivered.

First Alert WT1 Drinking Water Test Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_OXL5tb0YNPYD8

99.5% on amazon if anyone is interested.

Anything above 91% is preferable. 70% has water and other additives, but it will work. Higher purity iso works better, and more importantly, purges cleaner will less left over residue.

First Alert WT1 Drinking Water Test Kit. I live in a 100-yr old building with original plumbing so I bought this and tested the water. Everything came out well within EPA standards. Our city water (San Francisco) is among the best in the country so your mileage may vary.

I get my pg & vg from amazon. great prices. Just mix it in the ratios you want & your good to go. I vape unflavored juice with nicotine because I prefer it, it seems like a lighter less complicated vape than with flavors. Sometimes when I am bored I will put in some menthol for a change

http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-Propylene-Glycol-Quart/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416509782&sr=8-1&keywords=propylene+glycol

http://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-43/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=pd_sim_indust_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HC83A0EQFYJHWVJG8HQ

34F here. Got strep throat last year in September, took antibiotics, and ever since have been getting a yeast infection after my period every month. The hormone fluctuation of my cycle combined with imbalance caused by the antibiotic made it so my body could never really get right. It was ruining my life. Misery.

A hippy friend told me about boric acid and it has changed my life. It is effective for both BV and yeast infections in about 70% of cases (science, not anecdotes or holistic hocus pocus). I used it in capsule form up my hooha for 7 days to clear the yeast infection, then once a week for a eight weeks, now I just use one dose on the last day of my period every month. It is cheap and easy and here's how to do it:

Buy boric acid at the link below. Buy extra virgin organic unrefined coconut oil. Buy "00" size capsule casings. Get syringe from any pharmacy (usually free if you ask the pharmacist). Do not be put off by the warnings on the boric acid bottle, it is a very weak acid and many women are using it for this purpose! Please research further if you are unsure!

Melt about 1/4 cup coconut oil in double boiler or microwave till it is completely liquified. Remove from heat immediately. Stir in boric acid to make a thin to medium thickness paste. Let it cool to a lukewarm temp (too hot will melt the capsule casing, too cool will be too thick to fill them as coconut oil is solid at room temp). Use syringe to fill up the capsules and you can keep them in the fridge for up to six months!

Use them at night only, shove one capsule as far up the vagina as possible and immediately lay down. No tampons! Pad is advisable but not required if she doesn't like it. There will be a watery discharge in the morning and perhaps mild irritation, nothing crazy or intolerable. Use for 7 nights to clear a yeast or BV infection, then she can use it once a week indefinitely for maintenance. I've gone down to only using it once a month right after my period and it's great and inexpensive.

HUMCO HOLDING GROUP Boric Acid Powder, 6 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9WY0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A62lxbE93KY2T

I found this in amazon. I am going to give it a try.. I will make sure to follow up with this thread to see if it worked. Thanks folks for letting me share this in your group. I hope to post my results and have the searchable for future folks researching this..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KLJK62/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A27LSZ6R5SYNQU&psc=1

>calibartions

lol.

Mine came with calibration solution mix like in this video. I would recommend weighing your water vs. using volume. 1 gram per mL.

They also sell solution.

Find the instructions for your pH meter and read them, there should be calibration instructions.

It has so many uses around the house, so I buy it in bulk: 10lbs of anhydrous citric acid

I put about a 1/4cup scoop for a full washing machine in the rinse cycle, stop the machine to let it soak for a little while, then run a second rinse afterwards. We have hard water in my area, which leaves a mineral buildup in laundry as well as not rinsing the soaps and detergents very well. A citric acid rinse every now and then really helps remove that buildup from the fabrics. It works great for sweat stains and deodorant build-up too.

Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the whole the inside. It's safe for Electronics and will make it look like new. I would use a krylon paint on the rusty screws after removing the rust.

MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xyE1DbQ5BGQWF

It could be "bad" ipa. Denatured ipa is not good for print bed cleaning. ( a bit on the subject https://sciencing.com/denatured-alcohol-vs-isopropyl-alcohol-5519636.html)

It is probably denatured with a oil based chemical , or has a weird additive, even a residue in the plastic bottle before filling at the factory.... Try another brand and get yourself some 99% ipa MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/


I'm personally curious about using DI water(deionized water) to clean instead of 99% ipa, or maybe a 50/50 mix. We use it at work on the industrial printers and it works really good.

Be very careful with that! I found the one you bought (I'm assuming it's this one). It's laboratory grade, which means it likely isn't inhibited with something like BHT. It will form extremely explosive peroxides in air. I very much recommend you to buy a stabilizer to add to that THF.

If anyone else is looking to buy THF, be absolutely, 100% sure that it is stabilized.

I got everything separately.. Now I know I should have gotten my flavors and nicotine from wizard labs, but I ordered nicotine from nude nicotine and flavors from TFA's website. Also don't get a pack of flavors, just pick a couple of recipes you'd like and order those flavors. Here is a shitload of VG for sale on amazon. Grab some syringes, and glass dropper bottles while you are there and you're ready..

EDIT: You'll also need some bigger syringes or a graduated cylinder..

I would read the sub for a couple of days, make sure to look at the top posts and search some stuff you think of.. I really wish I would have done that before I just bought a bunch of shit.

Yes. The flavors we add to our e-liquids don’t make them safer. What you linked is probably safer than anything flavored juice on the market.

It’s pretty expensive though. 4.4¢ a mL vs. 0.66¢ per mL

Use 99% isopropyl alcohol (I use this stuff) to degrease the places on which you'll be putting the adhesive bits.

Personally, I spray down a cloth or paper towel with glass cleaner (Windex) then add a few sprays of alcohol and use that for most frame cleaning. Then for things which need to be grease-free I follow up with straight alcohol on a clean paper towel.

I use much stronger degreasers on metal-only parts, such as when cleaning the drivetrain parts when off of the bike. But for anywhere around plastics, alcohol is my go-to. It will not hurt the epoxy in carbon fiber.

(Always remember, carbon fiber is plastic.)

You can go to Amazon and buy from Essential Depot. Their VG is pretty good quality and you can get a gallon for around $28 and a quart for around $13 with shipping included. Sometimes these guys sell "Cube boxes" which will include 4 x gallon sizes of VG or PG for around $60-80 depending on the sale price. But you can find them on Amazon here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He's never gonna hear the end of this!

Okay, here's my answer. I go the oral route. I make a solution using propylene glycol (aka "PG").

My recipe for 4-ACO-DMT: .5g powder --> 4ml PG, combined in a small amber dropper bottle. Shake well until totally smooth. In my experience, 8 drops is a good starter dose. I just put the drops into a beverage and down it.

Obviously, you need a scale. You can get a decent one for under $20. One that is highly recommended the Gemini-20.

I bought it on amazon, and honestly the bottle makes it is hard to understand the dosage .

It’s this one
https://www.amazon.com/Methylene-Blue-Aqueous-Solution-250/dp/B071KLJK62/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=methylene+blue&qid=1558320146&s=gateway&sprefix=methylene+&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

And I took 10 drops the first day, and 15 the next two days . If someone could help me figure out the dosage per drop on it , it would be greatly appreciated .

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$18.00 per gallon with an additional $9.00 for shipping. If you order two, its the same $9.00 shipping. So comes out to $22.50 each delivered to my door. I have found a few better deals on occasion but I like the square jugs and how they fit my shelves.

I use 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (electronics cleaner). Works great,

MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jIFPAb1ZECD8F

Well what i was planning, is to make the cup on the inside as super smooth as possible using sanding and a heat gun. Also maybe acetone if I use PETG (not sure if that works or not).

I have a really strong chemical,
Tetrahydrofuran, it supposedly smooths PLA. I havent tried it because I am a little afraid of it...I want to be 100% certain that any gloves I wear it wont simply leech through.

I'm not saying that shellac wont work, and it is certainly food safe. I just suspect it has a low melting point. I mean it's used for the hard shell on some types of candy, and those shells certainly do melt. It's called confectioners glaze. Maybe they use a very thin coating?


There has to be some kind of coating out there, I just don't know what it is.

The alternative is to use the 3D printed object to make a mold for ceramic mugs, but that's too old school for me and this sub.

It sounds like you're entirely starting new, so I can give you some pointers I hope will be helpful. I also run a Breville Infuser, but I have a Ceado E6P.

• Maintenance and cleanliness. (More of general kitchen tip, but applies doubly here)
  
  When was the last time the grinder was cleaned? When was the last time the machine was descaled and back flushed? Consider this to be like brushing your teeth: you do it regularly so you don't get cavities and dental disease. You do not want to wait until things get funky. I clean my stuff about once a month. I also descale once a month because I have hard water; but I used to live somewhere where I only needed to descale once every 6 months.
  
  On cleaning your grinder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVVsTAUzVzM
  
  Grindz tablets: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014J7FUY
  
  Descale: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lq1TiwoJbWA
  
  Our machines do not have a descale mode, but that doesn't matter, you can follow the steps anyway. Also, just buy citric acid, you don't need Breville's stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GNBHPAS/ I always backflush after I descale, so I stop following this guide at roughly the 2 minute mark.
  
  Backflush: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1N8HLoW6ew
  
  Cafiza: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004L8RTEM/
  
  
• Beans:
  
  You need fresh beans. There's no two ways around this. You can play with this if you like. Old beans are monumentally difficult to dial in, and often it's impossible. I find beans last nearly a month after the roast date, but there's a noticeable drop off after the second week. There's a lot of room for experimenting here, I recommend you do. Also note, that some beans cannot be dialed in. I don't understand the roasting and processing factors, but there is a lot of variation here.
  
  
• About the Infuser:
  
  Our machine can be programmed such that it will dispense a fairly precise volume of water with the press of a single button. My 1 cup button is programmed to purge the group head, and my 2 cup button is programmed for a regular pull. I want you to know that this a really a good approximation, but Breville has a "smart" feature where it will try to "save" the shot if it thinks the pressure is too high. This has ruined a few cups for me, so I only have this programmed for those bad mornings, but otherwise I don't use it.
  
  Edit: I'm an idiot. If your pressure gauge is "bouncing" or fluctuating during a shot, most likely your pump is going bad. You can try to service it or replace it, I bought one of these off amazon and it is working: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMNA138/. I got this because it arrived the same day. This is the actual pump: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077ZRP3GD.
  
  I only use the 2 shot single walled basket, and I have also modified my portafilter to be bottomless. I generally find a good shot is just after the second screw in the pressure gauge, but that gauge is not very helpful.
  
  
• 
  
  I bought a few toys to help me out. These are not necessary, and in fact some people will tell you that you don't need them at all. Those people are probably right, but I like my toys anyway.
  
  A funnel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N693YSS/ A cut yogurt cup can work. It doesn't need to be fancy, I just wanted something fancy.
  
  A pick: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E48EWA/ A toothpick or anything pointy can totally suffice. Again, just wanted to be fancy.
  
  A leveling tool. I have a 51mm because that's what I could find cheaply at the time, but it looks like 53mm are also available now. 51mm: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BTN1S2C/ 53mm: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S4Q179B/
  
  A tamp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUXN53U/ This tamp has a spring inside it. I only bought this because I had a nasty habit of over tamping.
  
  I found this video that I like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMldWhQVMQA I would not tap the filter after the distribution (where he's stirring the grounds), and I tamp gently. I don't twist or turn the tamp.
  
  
• 
  
  Dialing in is a trial and error type deal. In general, you want ~16 grams in the portafilter, and want to pull ~32 grams of espresso in ~30 seconds. These aren't hard and fast rules, and there's a lot of wiggle room here.
  
  Find a coin like a nickel or penny and clean it. After you've tamped your portafilter, place the coin directly on top of the grounds, then lock the portafilter in the machine. Remove the portafilter and then carefully remove the coin from the grounds. (Do not pull a shot with the coin in there)
  
  Is there an indentation in the grounds? If so, then you have overfilled the portafilter. If not, you might be good, or the portafilter might be underfilled. A scale will really help here.
  
  To pull a shot, I have my portafilter locked in, and place my mug on top of my scale underneath the portafilter. I will hold down the 2 shot button (doesn't matter, you can hold down the 1 shot button), and keep it depressed for roughly 10 seconds. This is the preinfusion stage. Low pressure water is being introduced to the grounds. I chose 10 seconds because this is when I first start to see espresso appear at the bottom of my basket. You can experiment here. I then release the button to allow the full extraction. I press the button again at ~30 grams to stop the extraction.
  
  I want to emphasize that these are rough guidelines. You may find something entirely different that works. I apologize if I came off as rude or condescending, I'm a bit of a turd by nature. Please ask if you have any questions.

I'll break down a 30ml of my own for some real price examples.

Bottles

dropperbottles.com, 110 bottles for $37.40, $45.40 after taxes and shipping. That comes to $0.41 per 30ml bottle, the most expensive portion.

Labels (because I like to be fancy)

Avery 6879 labels from Amazon, $15.88 for 300 labels, free shipping. Comes to $0.05 per label.

VG

Gallon of Froggy's Fog VG from Amazon, $24.99. $0.007 per ml.

PG

Gallon of Froggy's Fog PG from Amazon, same price. $0.007 per ml.

Nicotine

Liquid Nicotine Wholesalers 100mg Nic, 240mL, $14.99. It was about $19 after shipping. $0.08 per ml.

Flavor-wise, let's go with a simple one. Prices from Bull City Flavors.

/u/ID10-T 's Cranberry Sprite.

• FLV Cranberry 1% (15ml for $5.49, $0.36 per ml)
  
• VT Fizzy Sherbet 2% (30ml for $6.49, $0.21 per ml)
  
• CAP Lemon Lime 3% (30ml for $4.00, $0.13 per ml)
  
  Breakdown of a 30ml bottle of 3mg 60VG/40PG Cranberry Sprite
  
  
• Bottle: $0.41
  
• Label: $0.05
  
• 18 ml of VG: $0.126
  
• 9.3 ml of PG: $0.0651
  
• 0.9 ml of 100mg Nic: $0.072
  
• 0.3 ml of FLV Cranberry: $0.108
  
• 0.6 ml of VT Fizzy Sherbet: $0.126
  
• 0.9 ml of CAP Lemon Lime: $0.117
  
  Total cost: $1.07

I'll hook up bro!
Use ecig express to order Flavor Concentrates and bottles
— Use ELRECIPIES for 10% discount

Use The Flavor Apprentice/The Perfume Apprentice for Flavor concentrates
— Be sure that they are made for ecigs
— Better than ecig for bulk orders

Buy vegetable glycerin, and syringes from amazon
— Buy a gallon for bulk
— Buy 10ml, and 1ml syringes
— Buy Tupperware or something to contain 16 oz of liquid to steep ejuice

Buy nicotine from Nude Nicotine
—Purchase “Smooth” Nicotine salts



https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk001-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00NDETMR2/ref=pd_lutyp_bia_3_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00NDETMR2&pd_rd_r=S32X53GMX38H2DP662TC&pd_rd_w=NhTrE&pd_rd_wg=Rt1HG&pf_rd_i=desktop-typ-carousels&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2798022962&pf_rd_r=S32X53GMX38H2DP662TC&pf_rd_s=desktop-typ-carousels&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=S32X53GMX38H2DP662TC

https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk010-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=pd_sim_328_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DXPRTHG&pd_rd_r=G7GP5J47E1CRQPHET2VD&pd_rd_w=yULCb&pd_rd_wg=yRWOy&psc=1&refRID=G7GP5J47E1CRQPHET2VD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.ecigexpress.com

http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com

https://www.nudenicotine.com/product/nicotine-salts-smooth/

Don't know about #1, but for #2 they sell special storage solution:

http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-Storage-Solution-Electrodes/dp/B002NX0W2I

You don't want to store it in a jar full of the stuff as it precipitates out into salts that will crust your jar as it evaporates. I have a larger cap for the electrode that I fill, but it has to be replaced monthly. Even then, the electrode craps out after 2 years. (I use mine for winemaking, not gardening).

This one's worked fine for me in the past, it gave me no false positives. I knew I could trust it because the region in which my old houses were located was notorious for its incredibly hard water, and that was the only factor for which my results came back as positive.

Not sure what solder you used, but that looks like flux. Isopropyl alcohol (like this) should work fine as a cleaner.

https://smile.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=pd_sim_79_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BNCFD5MHAKWG0RD9Z30X

It cost like $15 to buy a water test. I drink a lot of unfiltered water so I got one. The test said I'm all good. Worth buying and seeing if you should invest in some type of filtration system.

LOL SORRY! I'm a smartass by nature, couldn't resist. Amazon is an excellent source for PG, relatively cheap for a quart that should last a while. I'm sure what you bought is fine being USP, I just prefer products that are marketed for homo sapiens :-)This is what I ordered.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F5OJG6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We always used the plain stuff, like so:

• https://www.amazon.com/Methyl-Cellulose-Non-FDA-1-lb/dp/B001QQ7LOA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=methylcellulose&qid=1558544009&s=gateway&sr=8-5
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Lineco-Methyl-Cellulose-Adhesive-bottle/dp/B000KNLG1Y/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=methylcellulose&qid=1558544009&s=gateway&sr=8-17
  
  We used j-lube a lot too, but we weren't really pumping it into people or anything. Likewise, I think most of the actors considered douching/enema as part of their clean up routine. (I know douching isn't exactly highly-recommended, but this kinda stuff was the exception more than the rule.)
  
  I'd expect that you could just mix in a bit of whatever lube you prefer and it would act intuitively.

Hmm some of those things aren't really necessary and there isn't enough VG/PG to last a while. I would recommend you piece together yourself everything you need and mix by weight. At first I tried mixing by volume but that was inaccurate and my mixes sucked. Here are most of the supplies you'll need.

VG

PG

Nic - I use Vape Clarity nic myself but their warehouse is being rebuilt after a fire so they're not operational until the end of the month. Here's an alternative I saw in the DIY subreddit.

Scale - Make sure to get the 500g one so that it measures out to the hundredths place.

I use www.bullcityvapor.com to get all the flavors I need in one place.

For bottles, I've just been rinsing out empty bottles my friends give me.

I don't bother with gloves but I use very diluted nic so that's not an issue for me (might want to use them if you have anything over 36mg/ml nic).

Here's the calculator I use and a tutorial.

For PLA if you're not adverse to working with chlorinated solvents, Methylene Chloride or Tetrahydrofuran will work. There are some varieties of PLA that have higher amounts of PHA or other things in them that will let them be slightly smoothed with acetone though.

XTC-3D epoxy coating is generally easier and miles safer to work with.

I bought ~250 mL of 5-10% phosphoric acid at the LHBS for $5. The water here is super hard, so I needed like 100 mL to get to a pH of 5.5. Super costly, same with lactic since it's a weak acid. I ended up buying 1L of 85% phosphoric on Amazon and only need 6 mL per 2 gallon batch.

This is what I (and many folks that DIY) purchase, from Amazon, great price.

Here's what I bought! These were suggested in the original post I read and worked for me. It's a LOT of product, but it's pretty affordable. Just use a panty liner if you put one in at night because the capsule degrades and leaks out (kinda like the ovules that prescription treatments have.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00428B6X6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V9WY0S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01

They make them pretty small.

That was just a quick google search. Dig around for size and price. You can get a bottle of PG solution locally for usually around $6-$8 for an 8oz to get you started. I'll see if I can find you a sale online....

The tubes work fine, too, but are not the same thing and do not use PG.

EDIT: The cheapest way to get PG solution is to make it yourself. Just order yourself some PG and mix it in a 1 to 1 ration with distilled water. Accuracy isn't hugely important, but should be within 10%. This will make 2 pints and last you a very long time.

Nicotine quality varies so sick with a reputable source like nude nicotine. Pg and vg are about the same but I'd still get it from a reputable source. This seems to be the cheapest and is good quality.

Glycerin Vegetable Kosher USP 43 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2tYJub1T9F4VY

Essential Depot Propylene Glycol 1 Quart Essential Depot http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_quYJub0G6VXPH

Only if you assume that they stopped with the tiny handful shown. That bag looks like it could coat hundreds of those things, if not more. And citric acid is just a quick Amazon search, $10 and free 2-day shipping away.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F5KYM4/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just ordered this about 2 weeks ago. it is the exact stuff ploom gives you and its really cheap for a lot of it!

Edit: All it takes is a couple drops of the stuff a couple times a week. So it is definitely worth it.

Lol sure

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C7MTLA/ref=mp_s_a_1_7_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1505844760&sr=8-7&keywords=pg&dpPl=1&dpID=4162WNRg3oL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F5OJG6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_121_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=00QCF415KADTMNV835CS

Your choice of CBD

Another vote here for the propylene glycol available on Amazon. This is what I got, works beautifully.

Do you recommend any particular lubricants? This product looks good. Chemically it's identical to what Ploom sells.

Something I've been doing is adding citric acid to my OJ to get it to be as sour as lemon juice. I feel like it really balances the drink out much better.

Here you go: https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B01FD6EMNG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I have one and it's great !

Propylene Glycol (kosher food grade) is a much much more sensible solution to use for volumetric dosing.

Propylene Glycol - USP - Kosher - Food Grade - USP - Kosher - 36 oz net Weight in a 1 Quart Safety Sealed HDPE Container with resealable Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_w-AGDbHA5WZ71

Unrefined mostly harmless non-weapons grade uranium

I always liked how if you look at iron oxide the 'frequently bought together' items are aluminum powder and magnesium ribbon to make and ignite thermite.

They used to sell potassium nitrate that had a recipe for using it to make a black powder bomb in the product description, but I can't find that any more. Oh well, you can still buy them separately:

http://www.amazon.com/Sage-Cauldron-Lb-Salt-Petre/dp/B000WS901K/ref=pd_sbs_hpc_2?ie=UTF8

http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-Pure-Sulfur-Powder/dp/B005H0WA2O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394149652&sr=8-3

http://www.amazon.com/Fogo-FHWC35LB-35-Pound-Hardwood-Charcoal/dp/B009P166SU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394151117&sr=8-2

You're going to pay like a thousand bucks for that much bubble solution, plus shipping and handling. My advice would be to pick up an empty drum, a couple of buckets of liquid detergent, and a gallon of glycerin; and make it yourself in your back yard. You'd be looking at more like $250 plus shipping (particularly, you're going to save S&H on 400 pounds of water). There's lots of recipes online but you'd generally be looking at 1 part detergent to 6-8 parts water, and 1 part glycerin to 12-16 parts detergent.

I'm assuming you have a gemini-20 or something similar. Accuracy is about +/- 3mg with larger amounts. I'd suggest going for around 1mg/ml solution as this will be easy to measure and if you are mixing into 100ml+ the inaccuracy won't matter at all. You can find PG on amazon, you can also find it on some online vape shops because it's one of the main base ingredients in eliquid. Just get yourself a beaker to measure it out and a blunt tip syringe to measure your doses.

holy crap this is scary as fuck! please please please be careful. it's very obvious you don't know what you are doing. remember 2 grams is 2,000 pills. don't try to eyeball doses or keybumps or anything like that. first step: get a milligram scale!!!! you said earlier you have a gemini 20, that's would work just fine. then you are going to need a graduated cylinder, and some PG. i do 2mg per 1 ml of pg. so i weigh out 100mg of etizolam, carefully measure out 50 ml of pg then mix the two in a vial. just shake it hard core then let it rest overnight then shake it some more (takes it a while to dissolve in PG). make sure to store the vial outside of sunlight because that damages the etizolam (i wrapped electrical tape around my travel vial). then get a transfer pipette or oral syringe and make your dose (half a ml for 1 pill, 1ml for 2 pills). tastes horrible, best to put it in a drink or have a chaser handy. PLEASE BE CAREFUL!!!! it's hard to measure out under half a ml accurately so 10mg a ml means you HAVE to do at least 5 at a time. it's just a good recipe to extreme and dangerous addiction and would make it even harder to taper off.

MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_2aZUDbPD21WNS

I cant find the youtube video I watched to fix my controllers.. it seems to be removed. But a few drops of this stuff (safe to use on electronics - it dries very fast) into the base of the joystick. You have to lift the rubber flap with a toothpick while you apply a few drops. Then just swirl the joypad clockwise and counterclockwise for 30 seconds to a minute. I have fixed all 3 of my controllers with drifts using this method.

If you do it like that, I can see your math. However, if you do it like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WUPUYCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YptHxb7EHCH6V

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KqtHxbP3G3QW7

http://www.carolinaxtract.com/#!product/prd12/3738421821/120ml-sample-100mg-ml-nic-html

http://store.flavorah.com/All-Vaping-Flavors_c_8.html (Or Bull City or ECX or Gremlin, etc. - let's call it $50 in flavoring)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UGBG20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TxtHxbBFM078P

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B9V20W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NBtHxb23GQ99V

You can make ~4L/4000ml of 3mg/ml for ~$150 or a little under $0.04/ml, so ~$4.50 per 120ml with supplies left over.

Maybe I'm mistaken in thinking ~$150 isn't large scale but I'm sure many people on here spend at least that much in a six month period (five 250ml of Blue Dot will run you $187).

It sounds like you may have a soil with lots of a buffering basicifer in it like lime or some other (bi)carbonate.

If you have a cheap pH meter then it could be reading off if not calibrated. You want to calibrate digital pH meters at two points.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-4-01-Calibration-Solution/dp/B017H73794

Thermite. Did you know that aluminum will catch fire? I didn't until I thermited a macbook and most of the case burned outwards from where the thermite was piled.

Pro-tip: wear a welding hood, or at least sunglasses or you will have a spot in your vision for the rest of the day.

As always, amazon is your friend:

http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Powder-30-micron-Pounds/dp/B005QFYBUY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369961638&sr=8-1&keywords=aluminum+powder

http://www.amazon.com/Magnesium-Shipping-65ft-75ft-GalliumSource-LLC/dp/B0051HBSI0/ref=pd_sim_indust_1

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Iron-Oxide-Natural-Pounds/dp/B004OKDTX2/ref=pd_sim_indust_1

1g for $27 + shipping.

Or 1g for $35 with Prime free shipping.

Or $18+$9 shipping.

I'd imagine you'd need a fair bit more citric acid than that. I had meant pure powder. Like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Citric-Acid-Pound-Non-GMO-Organic/dp/B007ZYXPJM/

Good all around thing for around the house and it can be diluted down into PG for juice.

I use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Innovating-Science-Buffer-Calibration-Kit/dp/B00BUV7L96/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1472825418&sr=8-4&keywords=ph+calibration+solution) one. Like u/Boss_McAwesome said, you need more than one pH solution to properly calibrate.

It's accurate. Both of the main ingredients are extremely easy to get, either locally or online. You can purchase them quickly and cheaply without the need for any special licenses.

For example,
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Iron-Oxide-Natural-Pounds/dp/B004OKDTX2

http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Powder-Micron-500-Mesh/dp/B00ERX79FU

Just scale the amounts to what you need, add a magnesium strip as the ignition switch, and you have some thermite. I've used it a few times to cut through some old, rusted pipes at a local camp in the absence of power tools.

Actually, one can completely disassemble most models in about a half hour by following a guide.

I would disassemble, clean everything non electronic with soap and water. Electronic components can be cleaned with distilled water and 99% alcohol. It is most important that any electronic component be completely dry when reassembling.

https://www.amazon.com/Swan-M314-Isopropyl-Alcohol-99/dp/B00NMPLSZ6

Ninety-one percent may be a lot better than 70%, but I wouldn't call it ideal.

FWIW, I have a bottle of this 99.953%-pure anhydrous isopropyl alcohol, which is even better.

Here is PG and VG, but I'm not sure how to check shipping rates to you.

You could also try using /r/juiceswap if you need someone to re-ship it to save on costs.

Honestly, don't. Skip any starters as they are all generally over priced. Just buy things separately.

Amazon:

VG


Scale

30mL Bottle if you need some for concentrates, nicotine, VG, PG, etc. Or just to put your juice in.

Cheap Pipettes

I would get VG and PG from Amazon. It's cheap as dirt and it comes with free shipping with Amazon Prime.
http://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-43/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415344197&sr=8-2&keywords=vegetable+glycerine


http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-PROPYLENE-GLYCOL-QUART-Propylene-Glycol/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=pd_sim_hpc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1BJB98Z2KRR4Q4TF48KN

Is there a problem with me just buying this and experimenting with different oils to see what works better?

Edit: This would probably look better wouldn't it...

I don't doubt it's more difficult, but it looks like you can get some right off Amazon. Since you seem to know what's up, if someone got some, could they use it several times if they get themselves something they can seal up after bathing the part, or is it more of a one time use sort of thing?

http://www.amazon.com/Tetrahydrofuran-High-Purity-Solvent-120ml/dp/B00AU994W6

I can make enough juice with a 1/4 to last me quite a while, a lot longer than straight herb will last me and I can control the amount in each batch more closely to desired results. If I wanted to I could make some crazy one hitter quitter juice or I can make some slow sipping, you just regulate the amount of VG you use in the process and how much dilution with PG to get desired results.

A gallon of VG is like $19 on Amazon to your door, PG is a little more but this will be enough to last you several batches, probably at least a years worth of juice making. Only other investment is a crock pot, mason jars and maybe a strainer or cheese cloth which is a negligible investment.

Edit VG 35 a gallon (not a promotion just example)

http://www.amazon.com/Vegetable-Glycerin-Food-Grade-Kosher/dp/B000RT9JGK/ref=sr_1_7_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1457639437&sr=8-7&keywords=vegetable+glycerine

Food grade PG (same disclaimer)

http://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Perfect-Sweetness-Highest/dp/B00GI2CIQS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1457639514&sr=8-7&keywords=propylene+glycol

Scale 30

PG 13

VG 13+7Sh (Price is different from when I bought it, recommend difference source)

100 Pipettes 5

Lorann Sampler 15

Various bottle options, take your pick.

mixing any podwer consist of a carrier and the powder.

DO you have a a fine mg accurate scale. Many of the cheaper scaled aren't accurate until 6 mg or more

Create a sheet with your desired concentration. 100mgs Etiz to 200ML of https://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Quart-KOSHER-PURE/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503001430&sr=8-3&keywords=propylene+glycol

equals 1CC equals 2mg of etiz. I advise you not to make strong blends and frankly, you should combine ingredients and shake daily for about three days and they should be blended. I wouldnt worry about heating unless you're jonesing.

I came here to tell you to order VG from Amazon. I got a gallon for about $13, but it appears that the price almost doubled (I was going to provide link).

Does anyone know why VG price increased so much?

Edit: Link with new, almost doubled price. Was $13 _ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can probably get it cheaper here, free delivery too.

Enabling the 7x7 mode on my MK3 gave me such good bed adhesion that I don't need to use glue stick anymore. Now I just spray the bed with a some 99% alcohol and then print. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNQX3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you prefer a 50/50 blend, you could do that too. I bought a quart of VG on amazon for ~$12.

VG on Amazon / PG on Amazon

Or order from a place like Nude Nicotine, pre-mixed (1L of 50/50 is $14)

Just get it on Amazon homeslice. Essential depot is like 29$ a gallon incl shipping with prime

Amazon sells well water test kits. Tests for a number of things - lead and other metals, bacteria, etc.

Edit: I think this is the one I used.

Using Amazon and Medlabsupply for ease (two stop shop). I havent found much better prices (maybe a few cents..) in my homebrew career. My setup is a bit more expensive than whats listed lol.

Equipment

• Glass cylinder, 500ml - 6.50 - https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Borosilicate-Graduated-Karter-Scientific/dp/B06XPWVHQG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499435693&sr=8-2&keywords=500+ml+glass
  
• hot plate - 12 - https://www.amazon.com/Oster-CKSTSB100-B-2NP-Adjustable-Temperature-Control/dp/B0082JMCB6/ref=sr_1_3?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1499435761&sr=1-3&keywords=hot+plate
  
• spoon to stir - freeeeeeee
  
• vacuum pump - 18.17 - https://www.amazon.com/American-Educational-Operated-Vacuum-without/dp/B00657TJSQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499435863&sr=8-6&keywords=hand%2Boperated%2Bvacuum%2Bpump&th=1
  
• Vial crimper - 129 - https://www.amazon.com/DUSICHIN-DUS-099-Crimper-Sealing-Stoppers/dp/B015AWB0K6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499435642&sr=8-3&keywords=vial+crimper
  
• Glass media bottle for filter (not necessary, but highly recommended) - $11 - https://www.medical-and-lab-supplies.com/lab-glassware/media-bottles/500ml-hybex-media-bottle.html
  
  Consumables
  
  
• Raws
  
• GSO - starting at $4 - https://www.medical-and-lab-supplies.com/carrier-oils/unfiltered-grapeseed-oil/grapeseed-oil.html
  
• BB - starting at $5 - https://www.medical-and-lab-supplies.com/chemicals-solvents/benzyl-benzoate-usp.html
  
• BA - starting at $5 - https://www.medical-and-lab-supplies.com/chemicals-solvents/benzyl-alcohol-usp.html
  
• Vials - included with crimper
  
• Stoppers - included with crimper
  
• Caps - included with crimper
  
• Filters - $9.17/ea - https://www.medical-and-lab-supplies.com/filtration/disposable-vacuum-filters/250ml-autofil-ss-bottle-top-filter-pes-funnel-only-0-22um.html
  
  Sterilization - dry heat stove method
  
  
• Distilled water - local grocery, dunno price
  
• Stove
  
• Aluminum foil - local grocery, dunno price
  
• Isopropyl Alcohol - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1499436521&sr=8-7&keywords=isopropyl+alcohol

Might be worth doing a test of your water. Any alarming results could be taken to Public Works to hopefully find a solution to the problem.

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540909874&sr=8-4&keywords=tap+water+test+kit

You have to order the boric acid and the capsules separately. I bought Humco boric acid and capsules like these-- definitely go for the vegetarian capsules, as they are less likely to irritate your vagina and will dissolve cleanly.

Everclear will bring through more plant matter because it is only 95% alcohol (or 76% if your state doesnt allow the real stuff). I would highly recommend getting 99% iso from amazon. Dont listen to anyone who says the flavor isnt as good with iso. If you use 99.9%, it all evaporates anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C

If you use everclear, your oil will be an undesireable shade of green due to bringing through the water soluble parts of the plant

Make sure your searching for propylene glycol here is a link Propylene Glycol 1 Quart - USP - KOSHER - PURE and here is some pg flavors on amazon that you may also consider there cheaper from their main site though. [here](https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_10?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=one+on+one+flavors&sprefix=One+on+one%2Caps%2C159&crid=34XZSVFR8VU73(

Hmm. Your reply isn't showing up in my app for some reason, but I get it from a local warehouse. They get it in huge volume, I get this size bottle (same brand) for $14 CAD. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005DNQX3C/

Edit: it's not always MG, sometimes it's a different brand but I don't recall the name. I use MG for flux and solder too so I remember the brand.

Vinegar is popular for scale removal, but many prefer citric acid. I can't stand heated vinegar; it burns.......
For the hot pot, stir the citric acid separately in hot water first instead of boiling the citric acid directly in the pot. Otherwise, it can leave pitting stains (similar to boiling salt in cold water in a stainless pan). For dishwasher, just do it straight up.
You can try a small bag first, but here's a link to compare the price
https://www.amazon.com/Milliard-Citric-Acid-Pound-NON-GMO/dp/B00GNBHPAS/

For Comparison and info:
https://www.lemishine.com/ingredients/

http://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=16899

It's called propylene glycol. You need the good grade level. Amazon has it for $7.79 a pint and it should last you until it expires (years).

For that $60 you're getting 120 ml you could get started.

$13 for VG

$11 for PG which is optional

Flavors here. Probably end up spending $15-$20. Less if you find a good recipe with a couple flavors

$18 for the higher end nic

Propylene Glycol - Food Grade USP - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GI2CIQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s6QODb5ZSX4RK

Good stuff

alcohol will readily evaporate. Once the alcohol has "extracted" (pulled all the good shit) out of the plant matter, just let it sit out for a day or so. Applying heat will accelerate this process. it will evaporate and leave a gooey resin on your plate (or Pyrex dish). scrape (razor blade) and smoke. your done. Aside from golden grain you can also use this. Just don't drink it.

Keep the amount of sweetener low or zero and it will have the biggest impact on coil life. Low flavor will help in general, but some flavors hardly contribute to coil gunk at all, so it depends on which flavors you use. I haven't noticed any difference in the rate I change coils using 50/50 and 70/30, and I use both regularly in different setups.

BTW, it sounds like you are trying to decide between a finished nicotine base, 50/50 or 70/30 with maybe 6mg/ml nic added already, for example... Sorry if I misunderstand. That way does work but I do it the other way around, and mix my flavor base, then add nicotine to suit the order. If you buy VG, PG, and 100mg/ml nic each in its own bottle, you will have infinite flexibility with every bottle you make.


It's cheap too:

https://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-Quart/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1506167220&sr=8-4&keywords=vegetable+glycerine

https://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Quart-KOSHER-PURE/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1506167242&sr=8-4&keywords=propylene+glycol

PH tester: $18
https://www.amazon.com/DILISS-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B072JVRPFY/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&dpID=519gyBWGUxL&dpPl=1&keywords=pH%20digital&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&qid=1517523343&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_1&sr=8-1

PH calibration solutions: $13.69
https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-4-01-Calibration-Solution/dp/B017H73794/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&dpID=51Kpq0j-fmL&dpPl=1&keywords=general%20Hydroponics%207.0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&qid=1517523500&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_3&sr=8-3

All you need. Mine has lasted 4 years with very little calibration needed. Test it using these 2 solutions at least before every grow.

A life changer: anhydrous alcohol. Because it’s 99.9% alcohol, it evaporates essentially on contact when compared with ISO you might have used. I clean flat planes to be joined with a dab on a paper towel, then a microfiber cloth, then a quick jet of air. That might sound like a lot, but it’s genuinely less than 20 seconds per joint in cleaning time.

As others have said, food grade propylene glysol. I bought this for ~$15, looks like it's even cheaper now.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F5OJG6

Amazon has a quart of VG for $13.47 and PG for $10.95. I believe a lot of vape suppliers use that Amazon seller (Essential Depot) as their source.

Not sure about flavors, I haven't bought any yet.

There is no reason to ph down 3 times a day. Your meter is bonkers. That's a technical term that means your meter is bonkers. Ph meters are very delicate and should be stored in this. If you store it correctly you shouldn't have to calibrate often, but if you do not, you will have to calibrate ever time or you will get wild readings.

If you follow a well designed feeding schedule you shouldn't need a ppm/ec. Most nute manufactures have well balanced feed schedules available online. If you are trying to hyper feed or make your own custom additions then you will need a ppm/EC meter or you will run the risk of lockout.

This happens when the mouthpiece loses its connection to the slot it's plugged into, making the Pax think you took the mouthpiece out. This can happen if a lot of resin has built up on the mouthpiece stem.

To fix, clean your mouthpiece stem really well. Cover the stem in the Pax provided mouthpiece lubricant (or if you want to buy it in bulk yourself, it's simply food grade Propylene Glycol) and plug it in.

To prevent build up in the future, never store your Pax mouthpiece side down. When I charge it after a session, I leave it mouthpiece up and plug the adapter onto it upside down. This way, the oils don't run down and gunk up the mouthpiece and stem.

DON'T put alcohol in there to clean it out. Ploom advises against it, and I disregarded that advice and ended up having to send mine in for an exchange (credit to Ploom's customer service though, I was able to get a new unit in less than a week, no extra charge).

Well, IF the brass used has lead in it (not all brass does, and it is used less and less in brass) the small amount of mineral scale tends to form a nice barrier preventing it leaching into the water. A few flushes should work. If you are worried, test it. https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=sr_1_3/141-8508703-2370814?ie=UTF8&qid=1502944258&sr=8-3&keywords=water+lead+test+kit

Read the reviews on boric acid for YIs and BV and how well it works. It's changed my life, been using it for two years very intermittently. The powder will last forever and you'll not have to spend another dollar on anything OTC for a long time.

https://smile.amazon.com/HUMCO-HOLDING-GROUP-Boric-Powder/dp/B001V9WY0S?sa-no-redirect=1

(cc: /u/thebunz21)

I don't use nicotine but I buy all my PG and VG from Amazon.

I use acetone on mine.

You can try some anhydrous IPA if you want to try something a bit less harsh.

Try to avoid acetone used for cosmetics, they tend to have things like perfumes in them that will only make your life sad.

Here are links to the fluids I like to use for cleaning:

IPA http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Acetone http://www.amazon.com/SUNNYSIDE-CORPORATION-84032-1-Quart-Acetone/dp/B000C02AW4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1394475871&sr=8-8&keywords=acetone

Particularly on a hot print bed, make sure you are in a very well ventilated area during use.

Test your water for lead if you are worried about it. That's really the result you care about. There may be small sections of pipe or solder that contaminate the water even if you don't have large sections of lead pipe.

Hmm. okay. I saw a Youtube video that recommended this product, but that was for making an RSO wax/oil consistency, so maybe he used it because all the alcohol is evaporated off..

I bought Propylene Glycol off of amazon. That's what I've seen everyone suggest as an alternative.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F5KYM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1382292583&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

They also have quarts for $12-13 and gallons for $33. It's USP and a highly recommended brand. I wouldn't trust a PG "solution" as that implies there's other ingredients. Also, you want USP as that's at least food grade or Pharma grade. If it doesn't say USP, it's probably industrial grade, which means lots of impurities.

Because its $7.99 for a 4.7ml bottle, and a pint (473ml) of it on amazon is $7.83... I don't mind giving Ploom my hard earned, they make nice products, but I'm not going to pay 100x markup, either.

There are test kits you can buy. For example:

http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ

Make sure you find one that tests for the things that concern you. There are also labs that you can mail water to but I didn't quickly find a link.

Let them know exactly what happend and seek an RMA if possible as others suggest.

If no RMA is provided, you should clean that socket using high purity isopropyl alcohol. You can normally get it at a pharmacy in "medical grade". Or you can buy electronics grade in aerosol can or liquid to thoroughly rinse out and flush the socket.

You may want to test for lead in
Paint
and Tap Water

What you want is anhydrous isopropyl

This kit will let you test for all sorts of common contaminants, including lead.

one product. https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468425084&sr=8-2&keywords=lead+testing+strips

In a previous water related thread, someone posted this one

Ah. Test the water?

e: https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/

This is the kit http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ

Here's a simple and cheap one: http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/

Here's a more expensive and more complete one: http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Premier-173006-All--Water/dp/B002XISS4C/

As far as you know.

When's the last time you tested your tap water?

http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453321747&sr=8-1&keywords=lead+water+test+kit

Here.

Thermite is just aluminum powder mixed with iron oxide powder

Iron Oxide

+

Aluminum Powder

-=

Thermite

Nope.

OP delivers
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

This should work. It's not reagent grade, but I don't think the .09% difference will make a difference in a non-lab setting. The introduced impurities from the q-tip would make it a moot point anyway.

https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-99-9-Percent-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-ISOPROPYL-ALCOHOL-99-9-High-Purity-Gallon-packed-in-4-qts-/111336493723 <Cheap