Reddit mentions: The best laptop network adapters

CPU: Great choice.

CPU Cooler: You don't need it unless you OC.

Motherboard: perfect. If you want cheaper option, /u/m0ronsoldier recommended a motherobaord for cheaper price:

>AsRock B350 Pro4 @ Rs.7180 vs. ASUS Rog Strix B350 @ Rs.9900. No major difference other than very slightly less OC'ing capability

RAM: If this model is on QVL. It is fine.

VC: Great choice. 1050 TI is very good budget card. You can play many titles on this little beast. I would sugest to think carefully before buying this card. Since you said you might upgrade, but you are not sure if you will, it is better to buy 1060. think this: you spend 12K for 1050 TI. You sell it for 8K. You buy 1060 6GB for 24K. Total money spent: 12,000 + 24,000 - 8,000 = 28K. If you just buy 1060 6GB for now, you save those extra 4K. Are you getting my point? However, it is also a good decision to buy 1050 TI and see if you will really be needing 1060 or higher-end GC.

SSD: Hmmm...Any particular reason? Besides faster loading times, faster boot, faster installation, responsiveness, there is really no need for an SSD. That said, hard disk are not that bad. I say, drop this SSD because they are costly right now and you can upgrade it anytime later. With win 10 fast startup, your PC will boot up and shut down in seconds even on HDD. If you really need an SSD, go for SATA. M.2 also gets hot faster and needs proper cooling. I would highly recommend you either drop this SSD or go for an 250GB SSD. I am learning blender, a 3D graphics software, and even I don't need a 500GB SSD. I suggest you re-invest this money on 1060 6GB. 1060 is almost 50-60% faster than 1050 Ti. You will really benefit from this VC than an SSD.

UPS: Circle UPS...Hmmm...I know they make crappy PSUs, but UPS? I am not sure. Go for APC or something better. UPS is also something I highly recommend going for.

PSU: Let us come to the main topic. 450W will do the job fine. It is not a wise decision to go for 450W if you will upgrade your components in the future. The bare minimum I recommend is 550W. This lasts longer, and have enough headroom. I say this because a PSU is something you don't really replace in a year or two. PSU is something that should last longer than your CPU and other components. Cheaping out is never a good option. Sometimes they last for longer than 7-10 years. Haha!

Go for TX650M

or

S12G


These two are very good units and better than the CX450M. Now let us again do the basic math. You buy 430W PSU for 3.6K. two years later you find that 430W is not enough for you 1070, you buy a 6.5K unit. Total money spent: 10.1K Now if you had gone for the 6.5K PSU initially, you would have saved yourself 3.5K.

Now I am not saying 430W is not enough for 1060. It is enough. But you are better off with a 550W unit. You can upgrade till 1070 on a 550W model. It will also be more efficient and will stay rather cool and there is also the ease of mind.

Wifi: there is a USB adapter that goes on selling for about 350 or 500. You can check reviews :) Completely your choice.

My 512GB 950 Pro (NVMe) is great, but so is the 1 TB 850 EVO (SATA) that I use as an external backup drive. SATA-based SSDs are no slouch; they're still way faster than magnetic hard drives. Just get a good M.2 SATA drive for a reasonable price, and then when you do eventually get a new machine, NVMe drives will be cheaper and just one of several other improvements you'll get by that time (for example, USB-C/Thunderbolt 3, 4K hardware acceleration). Just because a newer technology exists doesn't mean your old system is any less useful.

When the 9350 came out in October 2015, NVMe was a new, cutting edge storage technology that had just gotten out of the data center and into the consumer market.

My 9350 is not without its own set of setbacks. When I bought my computer, I wanted one with 1080p (better battery life, and matte), 16GB of RAM, and Intel Iris (better integrated graphics), but Dell didn't sell such XPS 13 configurations in the US. The only way to get 16GB of RAM or Intel Iris was to also get a QHD+ touchscreen, which is glossy and has significantly less battery life. Also, just last night I found out that the 9350's USB-C / Thunderbolt 3 controller is a low power version that can only do 16 Gbps for data (Thunderbolt 2 speed), not the full 32 Gbps data speed that Thunderbolt 3 is capable of. And because I have Skylake and not Kaby Lake, I can't watch 4K Netflix or 4K Blu-ray (the new DRM requires Kaby Lake or newer). There are always going to be limitations on older hardware, but eventually you'll get a new system that will have those benefits.

Just upgrade the SSD if it would offer a meaningful benefit (in terms of capacity, or in terms of eeking out a meaningful amount of more speed from SATA 3). You can also upgrade your WiFi/Bluetooth module for better range/speed and MU-MIMO (enables MU-MIMO compatible access points to talk to multiple devices at once, instead of rapidly switching between each device like WiFi has traditionally worked). The Intel 8265 does that and is available on NewEgg. There's also the older 8260 which is very similar but lacks MU-MIMO (which your router may not support anyway). Or you could think about other ways to improve your overall computer setup, including things like a better computer chair. Good back support makes a much more significant quality of life improvement than NVMe vs SATA, and doesn't get outdated over time.

> My router is downstairs and across the house, so direct ethernet is not an option.

Wifi mostly likely is not an option either - at least not with JUST a WiFi card in the PC..

802.11 2.4Ghz my reach but that frequency band is so over saturated these day you will be lucky to minimal speeds and high latency on it..
and 802.11 AC 5GHz band probably will not have enough signal strength to reach..

So your entire WiFi configuration comes into play..

The Gateway that is used from your ISP to broadcast the WiFi signal... How far the device that wants WiFi is from that Gateway.. How much OTHER Wifi Signal (from all your neighbors) is clogging up the airways.. What building / appliance / stuff is between the far reaching device and the Gateway..

To combat these issues Mesh WiFi networks are being implemented more and more - So I would look into those..

https://www.pcmag.com/roundup/350795/the-best-wi-fi-mesh-network-systems

Ethernet over Powerline is also an option, but due to it being across the house they will not be on the same circuits and that adds some complication to the system..

Ethernet over powerline basically transmits a signal over your power lines to modules on either end.. Home wiring / power panels and appliances on the lines can effect the quality of the Ethernet of powerline signal..

These solutions are one of those try it and see if it works and works well in your situation.. They can either work GREAT or be a complete nightmare,

If you get a cheap set of adapters that were made a while ago with older EOP technology it likely will not work - They keep refining the process..

https://www.lifewire.com/best-powerline-network-adapters-4141215

With all that out of the way..

If your WiFi solution is decent then the Maximus X Hero(wifi-ac) will be adequate..

If it is not or you need faster transfers with a WiFi gateway that supports Multi-User MiMo Multiple in Multiple outs.. Which would aggregate more than one WiFi data streams..

You can get a card like this: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

If the Ethernet over powerline works out then your Built in Ethernet would work..

So how do you know if your WiFi as it sits will even reach?

Use your smartphone as a WiFi signal detector..

Here are some Android APPS - if you only have Apple your on your own lol..

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer


https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pzolee.wifiinfo

I would download them all and try them out and learn how the WiFi signals in your area are and what the traffic looks like..

Then go up to where the PC would be check the signal strength and traffic..

While up there run a Speetest

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.zwanoo.android.speedtest

and see what kind of speeds you get...

you can take your phone around to various areas to see how this changes..

Oh and good luck WiFi is all witchcraft and magic so it is not an exact science (unless you have the knowledge and equipment for proper evaluation)

With these simple tools you can gain a better understanding of your WiFi and what works and what does not..

X399 motherboard size, X399 motherboard pricing, X370 chipset.

I have a VI Hero. What's the point? It's the same X370 chipset with only 16 PCIe 3.0 lanes and 4 PCIe 2.0 lanes, only 1 M.2 SSD, same 8 SATA connectors, same gigabit — not 10 Gb — Ethernet. “Extra breathing room for videocards” isn't new either — VI Hero too has 2 slots separating its PCIe 3.0 slots. VI Extreme has the same SupremeFX S1220 audio as VI Hero.

Did I mention Crossfire/SLI works at x8/x8? And the motherboard costs $350 according to Asus https://www.asus.com/us/News/jTWOD9ZaAbcF5EAq I bet for the same amount of money you may want to get a Threadripper motherboard with X399 chipset which probably supports x16/x16 SLI/Crossfire.

The only thing I see being different is the number of fan pins, although VI Hero already had more than enough for a gaming prosumer tower. VI Hero supports custom water-cooling loops as well with its water pump and water sensor pins. Oh, and it looks like VI Extreme is a E-ATX motherboard so you will have to get a spacey case. VI Hero fits in regular ATX form factor.

There are literally 0 reasons to upgrade your motherboard. If you want Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, get Intel 8260 https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE/ or wait for 9260 to become available — it has Bluetooth 5.0. Well, and get some antennas as well. Or, if you are buying new, get VI Hero with Asus Wi-Fi module https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Crosshair-VI-Hero-Motherboard/dp/B072LX7WLN

In fact, if I were building right now, I would probably stick to $250 VI Hero since it's the same X370 chipset. And it's quite mature overall.

On your decision to avoid the Kraken X62 because of its software, it's not a bad way to go. The software is super intuitive and the lighting effects look awesome, if you can get it to detect your AIO, that is. I would say CAM detects my X62 every 1 in 3 fresh boots, and the other 2 times it just doesn't acknowledge my cooler and I can't change the lighting or fan curves. I don't know know how good Corsair Link is, otherwise I could recommend you to check out the H100i/H115i since it has similar lighting features.

With regards to the motherboard, if built-in wifi is a necessity, you can do what I did and get the cheaper Hero board and just add your own wifi card. The Hero actually has an empty slot beneath the I/O shroud for an M.2 wifi/bluetooth card. This is the card I got, you'll also need antennas that connect to the card via tiny snap-on clips. The Hero's I/O shield has holes for the antenna that you have to punch out, and then you install the shield like normal and just screw on the antennas afterwards. Apparently the built-in wifi for the Code/Formula isn't too great, so this might be your best option.

Lastly, the Hero doesn't have too many internal USB headers, so if you go with that board then you'll need an internal USB hub which adds more slots. The convenient thing about this newer version is that the base is magnetic, so you can stick it wherever you want for ideal cable management.

I'm using High Sierra on my x220 right now. I flashed the BIOS to get the wifi whitelist and spent less than $10 on the wifi card.

I put 8gb of RAM in it because it performs better and I was trying to address some video artifacts. It might have helped, but I still get video artifacts sometimes (like a line across the screen). It's not that bad, just a little annoying. It isn't a hardware issue, it doesn't happen in Ubuntu.

The battery life is comparable to Ubuntu and it's a new 9-cell, so it's pretty good. CoconutBattery on OSX doesn't seem to report the right number of cycles, though.

The screen brightness is a bit of an issue for me. I can't figure out how to get it to step down as dim as other OSes do. It will go from about 30% brightness to off. I want those steps in there for using it in a dark room.

iMessage is a bit of a pain to get working. I think I got lucky to find a generated serial number that worked but was invalid.

I followed this to do the install and I think this to get iMessage working. But Clover had changed a bit so I don't think that guide is perfect anymore.

Overall I like it. I have a MacBook Pro for work and the gestures on the trackpad are really good. On the ThinkPad the gestures don't always work and honestly I just turn off the trackpad most of the time (PrtSc is the shortcut!) and just use the trackpoint.

It's a fun project, in any case!

Yeah, I say return that shit, you got taken in by very misleading marketing.

A wireless router can't transmit data any faster than what the client it's talking to is capable of.

Most modern clients are only capable of the 867Mbps or 1300Mbps max 802.11ac PHY rates, which, after typical Wi-Fi overhead, means 500-700 Mbps max throughput, and that's on a clean channel with the client in the same room as the AP, and no other devices taking up any airtime. The max PHY rate you can get drops off dramatically with distance and interference, so if you put a wall or a floor/ceiling between your client and the AP, you'll get far less throughput.

I could go into painful technical detail about how shitty TP-Link's marketing claims are for that router, but unless you're really ready to nerd out about wireless modulation and coding schemes, let me just leave it at this: Your "red beast" isn't going to improve over the "550 wireless, 900 wired" performance of your existing rented router unless you have clients capable of one or more of the following unusual speed-boosting technologies:

1. Support for 4 spatial streams. One ASUS PCIe WNIC for desktops supports this, but it's not common in laptops or tablets or phones because small devices don't have enough room for 4 separate antennas spaced out enough to be useful. Support for 4 spacial streams also adds power consumption (lessens battery life), increases thermal load (fans would have to run more, or throttle the CPU, GPU, or Wi-Fi more), and adds cost.
   
2. Support for using nonstandard 1024-QAM modulation with 802.11ac. 1024-QAM is part of the brand-new, just-barely-started-shipping 802.11ax/"Wi-Fi 6" standard, but some vendors added nonstandard 1024-QAM support to their 802.11ac devices. Your "red beast" doesn't actually support 802.11ax, so this speed boost only works with client devices that support this weird nonstandard mode. As it turns out, that same ASUS PCE-AC88 I linked to above happens to be one of the few WNICs that supports this. It seems Broadcom added nonstandard 1024-QAM support to one or two of their highest-end 802.11ac chipsets a couple years ago, so there are a few Broadcom-based client devices or WNIC cards that support it. I'm not aware of whether any other chipset vendors support it, or whether the support is interoperable between vendors (since it hasn't been standardized by the IEEE and the Wi-Fi Alliance doesn't certify compatibility for it).

Thanks for the help. I'm currently at home, but will try that when I get back to school. I found and installed LinSSID. Is there a certain number or range I should look for when I'm monitoring a network? My home network signal seems to be hovering around -10 to 10. I'll look for a manual for the program later to better understand the information.

Can you recommend a usb wireless adapter that would improve my computers ability to capture wifi signals? I have this one I tried at school: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU

Unfortunately, it doesn't help my problem at all and I'm willing to spend more money on a better one to solve my problems. Would something like https://www.thinkpenguin.com/gnu-linux/penguin-wireless-n-usb-adapter-w-external-antenna-gnu-linux-tpe-n150usbl help me?

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/LCM7kd

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First, I changed the motherboard to a b450 one and though it doesn't come with wifi, I'd recommend just getting a cheap WiFi adaptor from Amazon like this: https://www.amazon.ca/WISE-TIGER-Adapter-600Mbps-Wireless/dp/B01M0Q51UI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2ULZAU1R517AR&keywords=wifi+antenna+for+pc&qid=1564007425&s=gateway&sprefix=wifi+ante%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3

I also upgraded the cpu to a 3600 because there is a big performance improvement in games compared to 2nd gen. Since 3rd gen ryzen loves 3600mhz ram, I upgraded that too. It doesn't have rgb, but if you want that you can try this kit for more money: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/6jBTwP/gskill-trident-z-rgb-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c18d-16gtzrx

The graphics card was changed to a 5700 XT because it's not only faster then the 2060 super, but is faster than even the 2070 Super in most cases according to Userbenchmark. However, I'd recommend waiting a little for the 3rd party non-blower cards. Finally, I got a psu (still +80 gold and fully modular) that was cheaper and less overkill for your system at a wattage of 550 for a system that's only using 399.

I was more asking how far the signal has to travel. The big bonus that more expensive cards give you is more range, but if he's only going to be a room away then the range matters a bit less.

If price legitimately doesn't matter and his PC is pretty far away from the router or there are thick walls between the PC and router, this thing gets great reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

Never personally used that one, but a lot of people seem to like it. The drivers are a bit wonky though. If that's overkill, I own the card linked below and have never had any issues with it, and for the price I honestly don't know if you can beat it performance-wise. I would recommend it to anyone unless they need some serious range:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-Heatsink-Technology-T6E/dp/B016K0896K

As I said before, the three I suggested are known to be supported by Mac OS. However, the DW1550 allows for Continuity/Handoff, should you need those features. A guide for that can be found here, though it may be quite difficult for newcomers (not to insult your intelligence).

Personally, I use the DW1510, which can be found here for a little under $11. I was very happy with the ease of use, and as soon as I put in the network password, it was good to go.

What laptop is it that you're using, out of curiosity? Do you know the model number? Hopefully, I could better help you if I knew.

Again, good luck!

EDIT: Clarity

Always go with an external antenna on a wire, so you can get the antennas up above your desk, for better line-of-sight.

The Asus PCE-AC88 looks like the most capable offering I can find. 4x4 MIMO is compelling for future-proofing.

The slightly less capable, but also lower-cost Asus PCE-AC68 looks like good hardware as well.

I wish they were Intel-based WiFI, and not Broadcom. But Broadcom drivers have gotten better these past few years.


I'd re-ask this question in both /r/wireless and /r/homenetworking before you spend $100.

1. Unless you 've replaced the combo Wifi/BT card in your EliteDesk, that card won't work. Apple has never used Intel-based Wifi/BT cards and they are not supported. This is why your wifi doesn't work. Go buy a supported wifi card found here and get this adapter card. to find the M.2 card in your wifi slot. For full Continuity/Handoff support, you really need a supported Broadcom card. You can find a list of supported cards here.
   
2. Be forewarned, you are likely get some hate due to mentioning Multibeast in public. All tools can certainly have their use cases, but the conventional wisdom is vanilla installs are much better than using the Unibeast/Multibeast methods due to the fact that Unibeast/Multibeast place updated files within the MacOS filesystem, whereas Vanilla install methods keep all of the driver changes contained within the UEFI partition. The implication is Apple updates can easily break your machine if you are changing files inside of MacOS, but it is generally far safer to keep your changes in the UEFI partition because Apple leaves that partition alone.
   
3. Your EliteDesk 800G3 is very similar to my EliteBook 840 G3 laptop, as both are based on the same architecture, same generation and similar motherboard. You can likely get pretty far following Rehabman's guide for the Probook/Elitebook Mojave install. See this thread and this guide.

Asus makes some excellent PCI-E Wi-Fi cards. I have a PCE-AC56 and it has worked flawlessly for me for over two and a half years. It's well within your price range and it offers excellent performance. If you're looking for something a bit more powerful, the PCE-AC68 is basically the upgrade to the PCE-AC56, and I can only assume it performs slightly better. A final choice is to go balls to the wall overkill with the PCE-AC88, which I find hard recommending unless you need massive range and signal strength, which doesn't seem to be something you require. It's also out of your stated price range, so this one is entirely up to you. Any one of these should handily solve your problem. If you're looking for a good quality Wi-Fi solution that doesn't take advantage of your wallet like a prison bitch, the PCE-AC56 is a great choice.

I'm currently in the process of upgrading my home network and have a similar problem. I'm renting and understand not being able to run a cord across the house. I've been using the top end powerline adapter (TP-link AV2000) and getting 60-70Mbps. I've read that this can be much better or worse just depending on your house wiring. I just quickly tried an Ookla speedtest with a MoCa 2.0 adapter and was able to get all of my 200Mbps internet connection. So it's at least that fast. I have a MocA 2.5 adapter coming in the mail today and I'm going to run an iPerf3 test on all three solution to see their full bandwidth. MoCa was the best solution for me. Other possible solutions:

1. Move the router, NAS, and workstation all into the same room and wire them with ethernet
   
2. Put a nice 4x4 AC router in the middle of the house and use 4x4 adapters on the NAS and workstation (or hardwire one of them). This won't be gigabit but can still be pretty fast. There might be fastest Wifi 6 hardware out now, but it's hard for me to keep up. It's still very early days for Wifi 6.
   
3. If they insist on a wireless solution and can't get a good connection to their workstation with a single router, the Orbi RBK50 is the fastest mesh solution.
   
   So I'd rank possible solutions:
   
   Wired Ethernet > MoCa > 4x4 Single AC Router with a strong signal to workstation > Orbi > Powerline

Amazon search, PCIe, Amazon Prime for that sweet free shipping:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_review-rank?keywords=wireless+adapters&fst=p90x%3A1%2Cas%3Aoff&rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A193870011%2Cn%3A17923671011%2Cn%3A13983711%2Ck%3Awireless+adapters%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A6011949011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011&qid=1538695753&sort=review-rank

40 bucks, amazon's best seller:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T6E-Wireless-Technology/dp/B016K0896K/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1538695772&sr=1-4&keywords=wireless+adapters&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A6011949011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011

AC1300 dual band, not the other one.

"N300" is just 2.4 ghz, don't go there.

Not sure what router you have, if this higher end card would be of benefit:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T9E-Beamforming-Technology/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=zg_bs_3012291011_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VVAD1W30VR3E1GVMJ2X0

Rosewill stuff is OK in my experience:

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Wireless-802-11AC1200-Including-Low-Profile/dp/B0799J48HD/ref=zg_bs_13983711_21?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BPF41JVTDJR8NADY6FKH

I have seen this name mentioned, I think for Hackintosh builds, Fenvi?

https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Express-Single-chip-Dual-Band-2-Stream/dp/B07H3TCXMK/ref=zg_bs_13983711_49?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BPF41JVTDJR8NADY6FKH

yes, if you would have gone for something like this, you would have got better numbers than A7000 which is limited by USB performance.

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Internal cards are PCie based which is much higher performance than USB2.0 and even USB3.0.

one example,

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY/

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I would not recommend any specific solution as everything has some or other problem.

​

other solution is you get a triband extender with ethernet port to get even better numbers. an example is NETGEAR EX8000 and plug in your PC to the LAN port.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Extender-EX8000/dp/B074F3M2W8/

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**Other big question** you need to answer is whether your ISP router is even capable of gigabit performance on Wireless. I think Zyxcel C3000Z has pretty crappy wireless performance. You are better off with 3rd Party router.

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You don't need a $125 AIO cooler to prevent overheating lol. That cooler would be for if you wanted to OC that bad boy up to 5.0ghz or something.

With a 23in 1080p monitor, you really don't need much. If I were you, I'd upgrade to a 27in 1440p 144hz monitor for the best gaming experience. Key here is to get either a Freesync or Gsync monitor, coupled with the correct GPU. I personally use a BenQ 27in model that's 1440p/144hz with an rx 470 8gb GPU (freesync). I have never had such a good gaming experience as to 144hz and Freesync, honestly, it's that good! edit-it also has incredible color accuracy for being a TN panel, better than my IPS panel next to it.

Don't spend $2300 on something only to look at it through a 23in shitty monitor. That's just ludicrous.

I dunno what your homework entails, or how intensive your art would be, but my guess is the 7700k would do just fine for that. The 1700 really shines when it comes to video encoding, virtualization, multi-tasking, etc etc. It games perfectly well, but with an Nvidia GPU you'll notice better framerates on the 7700k (at the high end). The one key thing about 1700 gaming performance, and this is entirely subjective but often repeated by actual owners...is that the 1700 is really* smooth. Like...really smooth to game with. No lag, no jittering, it's really immersive that way. It's probably because the CPU has so much overhead to it.

Anyways, give this WiFi card a look if you absolutely demand the best signal. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY/?tag=pcpapi-20

https://github.com/neurobin/MT7630E

Looks like that's all there is to support that bit of hardware. Which, looks like it's a hack to run the device via firmware stripped out of the windows driver. So surely it can't really be legally distributed... But someone has put the bins on github anyway. That the sort of thing distributions just won't risk, for reasons varying from ethics to just not wanting to be sued into oblivion.

Honestly, I wouldn't put a lot of effort into getting this working. I'd probably put a pin in using linux until I got a different notebook, whenever that would be. Sometimes hardware support is just bad.

Or you could try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+wifi&qid=1562035848&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Doesn't seem too horribly obtrusive. I'm sure the range will be pretty bad, cause you can't fit much of an antenna in that little dongle. Keep in mind that only the cheapest one, the single band "150Mb" (like you'll ever manage that on it), is compatible.

5ghz wifi base station and set it to bridge mode connect it to the uni wifi and then ethernet cable into your pc. basically it becomes the wifi card but will work a lot better.

2.4ghz has a longer range for transmission receiving as its a lower frequency. Could use a 2.4ghz bridge as well might be better but im sure with enough signal 5ghz should be fine.

USB network cards usually don't have a very good range as they are small, a wifi base station has nice big aerials.

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https://www.amazon.com.au/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=asc_df_B008IFXQFU/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341773398184&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=263816913391382260&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9069013&hvtargid=pla-309497953602&psc=1

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vs's

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https://www.netgear.com.au/home/products/networking/modem-routers/d1500.aspx

So you're sure that it doesn't exist? In that case, thanks for telling me that. As for the wifi thing, would the things I linked in the post (this and this) work for my purposes? It appears that my motherboard has a dedicated "Mini-PCIE slot for wifi card" near the IO that would necessitate something like this solution (a card like the one I linked with leads to the back, where there are holes for the antennas) if I wanted antennas on the back, which I would. I've got a cheap USB one and I don't like it. Thank you for your help.

I personally just got this one for $35 US as a warehouse deal and it works amazing. It has the same speed as wired with almost the same ping. And it has better speed/ping than using a powerline adapter. Although this is using my old router's antanaes. Not sure how it performs with the stock ones. Probably almost exactly the same.

As far as what you actually need/want I would assume something like this would probably suit you just fine and would likely work just as well. Or this one which may get better performance.

Edit: Put in Amazon.ca link for first one

There are several websites out there that deal specifically with Linux hardware like ThinkPenguin but you would probably have luck just searching "Linux Nano Wifi Dongle" in something like Amazon or AliExpress. I have had luck with TP Link Dongles

I do have devices that support 4x MiMo yes. Two computers in particular.

As to beamforming, I'm not an expert on radio signals and engineering, however enabling it client-side has shown a dramatic increase with the speeds I get on a computer located furthest away from the AP. Perhaps this is just a client-side benefit?
This is what that client machine is using to connect: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY/

Speed tests showed a jump of 100% toggling it on/off.

The problem I have with the multiple APs is to be effective and IMO worth much more than say a tri-band router they would have to be placed in different parts of the house which would require running some wiring, drilling holes, etc and at that point I might as well just run wiring to every room. To be clear I agree multiple APs would work better, but it isn't something I can reasonably do. I have looked into wireless bridging but from what I can tell outside of external antennas and purpose-built enterprise equipment it works like crap.

Thanks for the info on the Ubiquiti APs.

Just get a USB wifi adapter. Something like this or if you want one thats smaller and less in the way you can get this one. The smaller one probably has less range and lower max speed.

Or if you have extra expansion slots and need faster wifi you can get a PCIe wifi card like this.

NOTE: I haven't done much research on this so the listed products are just examples of the types of solutions available. By no means am I recommending these as the best in their respective classes. I just own TP-link stuff and trust them is all.

Some general rules of thumb (you'll probably already know):

• LAN > WiFi > Powerline
  
• 2.4 ghz > 5 ghz, if big obstacles like walls are in the way, doesn't really matter if it's the same room
  
  Usually i would suggest following combo as it is Miracast compatible:
  https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B016RU3T6S/ &
  https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0197W86IE/
  
  But as this would be the double of your price tag, i'd advise this one: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Archer-T4U-Wireless-One-Button/dp/B00JBJ6VG8
  
  It does a pretty good job at some clients of mine.
  
  Please try to avoid Powerline Adapters, as they could do more "harm" then good.
  
  Common Promblems:
  
  
• They create a lot of noise in different frequencies, as they use between 2 and 68 Mhz for datatransmissions. Powercables are not shielded and that way you have a huge, radio jamming antenna.
  
• In some countries your Powerline Solution can be shut down by authorities if it disrupts your neighbours radio and you have to pay for the whole fieldop find your noise creating device.
  
• They have to be in the same powercircuit to function properly
  
• Turning on any device in that circuit could crash the powerlan connections (took us weeks to find out that the vacuum cleaner was crashing a clients printer connection)
  
• Speed is not really as "promised" or "advertised"
  

Yeah, last night I was able to find something like this laying around in my room. So I was able to get on the WiFi successfully!

I might end up purchasing one that can find stronger signals, thanks for all your help!!

I bought [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H9QMOMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) . it is a bit expensive but to be honest I am enjoying it because there are no compromises . its very comparable to being hardwired. I went from hardwired to this for different reasons but I haven enjoyed this immensely for the past 5mo.

I agree and totally understand your point of view, but in the event that wireless is preferred, do you think that this 150Mbps USB Adapter would be a "good enough" replacement for direct ethernet connection? (just want an opinion on wireless as a Plan B)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IFXQFU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Regarding the Wireless vs Wired perspective, is their really that much of a significant performance difference? (assuming wireless signal quality is at its highest) Or are the people who say Wired over Wireless talking theoretical? Just would like a real world opinion and experience answer.

Here are a few options:

• 3-Port Charging OTG Host Cable Cord Adapter
  
  
• Multi-in-1 OTG Adapter Cable
  
  
• Micro USB 2.0 OTG Host 90 Degree Right Angled Adapter
  
  
  USB Sticks ----> List of Compatible USB Devices for USB Host Mod
  
  Also if you want to get Netplay: TP-Link TL-WN725N
  
  It's the recommended Wifi adapter.
  
  I have all these and they work great. Started out with the small one, but had to get more ports so I could add more controllers and wifi for netplay.
  
  Also, it's best to put Hakchi on the thumb drive itself. It keeps everything self-contained. When adding games use "export" instead of syncing. Make sure "linked" is checked.
  
  *Edit for link

Has anyone tried, or does anyone know whether or not replacing the Macbook's built-in wifi card with a 802.11ac compatible card will enable this feature? I have a mid-2012 rMBP and a S2 Apple Watch, and I'd like to be able to upgrade the wifi card with something like this.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PDN4H9E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2I9JAMM3F4Q6T&psc=1

Will it work, or does Apple simply look at the model of the laptop to determine whether to enable this feature?

Edit: I read some of the comments on Amazon and it looks like others have had success with the new Auto Unlock feature by upgrading their wifi card. I ordered it and if it works, I'll edit this post again.

This is a good TP Link one. You have to manually install the drivers but after that it's been the best connection I've had with wifi on the pi. I've used the edimax and several others and I like this one best.

I believe most m.2 wifi cards will work in that slot. Most of them are compatible with both E and A-key m.2 slots.
For example https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488246464&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+8260 (it shows both E and A key holes)

I can't guarantee this will work (especially because i have no idea how you would mount the antennas connectors without modding the I/O panel or using a pci-e expansion slot thing which would require pretty long antenna cables), or that it will recognize the wireless adapter at all. But it should at least fit in the slot.

I would definitely like to use this for a wifi/bt m.2, because I'm pretty sure this m.2 slot is running off SATA controller, meaning I wont need to use up pci-e lanes for wifi/bt. (SATA allows up to 6.0Gbps, which is faster than 99.9% of peoples internet connections. its more than enough for wifi and BT simultaneously). I'm not fond of the usb dongle wifi/bt adapters, they are often less reliable in my experience.

Eh, this tip, especially for the samba server would have been good.
I was a bit on a budget, but needed wifi (for pi2 location, far from router, on top of a furniture), so I purchased a TP-LINK TL-WN725N Wireless Adapter 150Mbps.
It should reach the effective ~20MB/s.
Thanks for the tip tho, I may buy it when I'll switch the 64GB USB Stick for a proper HDD.

Well, the internal adapter should be easily replacable. The wiki says it is this, for $25 shipped: http://amzn.com/B009HN63QQ

Besides that, I would install XP. Then you could use most wifi usb adapters.

Edit: Source: http://cr-48.wikispaces.com/Replacement+Parts

Also, ebay looks like $12 shipped.. even better.

Thanks for the response. Right now wireless is the only option I have, there are no network cables coming down here. I'm not sure what you mean by network plugs coming through the electrical wiring.

So I have a laptop which I'm using to type to you which has built in wireless, and it functions ok, sometimes crazy spikes of lag but for the most part ok.

My PC is using this and its pretty much useless in terms of getting a stable connection. I'm concerned that its wireless reach is not strong enough to reach through the ceiling to where the router is.

Ideally I'd like to get my PC connected as I use it for most of my day to day work/play.

I built my computer without a wifi adapter because I had direct access to a router. Since then I've moved to a house with shared wifi and I no longer have direct access, so I've been using phones or other devices on wifi and tethering them to the PC. This works ok for downloads and streaming but when i try playing online games like Rocket League I experience low ping (30-50ms) but still a lot of lag due to what I assume is packet loss.

Is the best option for me to buy a wifi adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-600Mbps-Wireless-Antenna-Support/dp/B01M0Q51UI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1493994588&sr=1-1

Or to buy a card along the lines of this:
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1493994588&sr=1-9

I haven't done any research into the products themselves im more curious if the shortcut of simply buying a USB adapter will address my issues.

My favorite way to make chicken! It was the first real meal I've ever prepared. :) pretty easy.

This under $10 item would be very helpful

Butter Off Dead

Thanks for the contest!

If you have PCI slots, these are great:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0713RRZMB/

Intel 802.11ac chip (at least it was when I purchased), regularly sustain 500+ Mbps connections (using Ruckus APs).

These are really nice USB ones as well:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00416Q5KI/

Ralink driver if I remember right. They are Wireless N, but still generally good. Typically about 120 - 175 Mbps connections

I've also used these before if you have strong APs and don't need super fast speed:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/

Expect about 40-60 Mbps connections

I cannot speak for THAT motherboard, but some like the ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-G will work with mPCIe cards like this. See Hackintosher layout an entire build with it.

The better option I think is still this card: Fenvi FV-T919 - you can find it at NewEgg and AliExpress, both sold by Fenvi.

I got this one from Amazon, because I needed to have one that would tripleboot Mac/windows/peppermint Linux:

DW1510 AGN BCM94322 Half Dual-band N Pci-e Wirless WLAN Card 802.11a/g/n 2.4G & 5G for Laptops & Netbooks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP52BNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SNPZCbD9WP3B2

It works fine, and it only cost $12, but I think there are even faster and better ones available.

I think you probably should first update your bios to allow non-whitelisted cards before you buy anything though.


Edit: if MacOs compatibility is key, here is some info on three possible cards. Like I said, I picked the cheapest, and it works, but it is not super-fast: http://x220.mcdonnelltech.com/

A great Wireless-N Wi-fi card is the TP-Link TL-WN881ND for under $20.

If you need bluetooth as well as a basic Wireless-AC (AC1200), then there's an Asus PCE-AC55BT that has you covered.

For higher performing 802.11ac with beamforming, an affordable option is the TP-Link Archer T9E AC1900 card. For top of the line, you should look at the AC3100 capable Asus PCE-AC88 card.

Just a PSA for people:

I have had a lot of success with the cheap, Chinese-branded, goofy-looking wifi-adapters also sold on Amazon.

This one, for example, is $20: https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-600Mbps-Wireless-Antenna-Support/dp/B01M0Q51UI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511807499&sr=8-3&keywords=wifi+adapter

You're going to want one with the antenna on it (I bought one of this tiny USB ones as well and it doesn't work well at all).

I have played games using these wifi adapters and it works fine even another floor of the house.

I have a laptop and recently upgraded my old desktop. Did not upgrade the screen, I'll invest on it after few months. My laptop screen is good and want to use it as a second screen for my newly upgraded desktop. I watched this video that explains how I can connect both the devices and project my desktop to laptop. But my Desktop is connected to the router via Ethernet cable and my laptop is connected via WiFi. Unfortunately this is not counted as "same network", which is the requirement for projecting desktop screen on laptop.

For solving this problem I'm planning to buy a WiFi USB Adapter. Probably this one. Need help in selecting what to look for, and if the one I've selected will be enough. I may play some games on the second screen. Also if it is possible to connect the screen without them being on same network, please tell me how.

You can get a much more powerful Hackintosh for the price of the mid-tier Mac mini.

-----

$105 - motherboard - GIGABYTE GA-H77N-WIFI
$220 - CPU -3.4GHz Intel Core i5-3570K
$129 - RAM - CORSAIR Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM 1600MHz
$80 - case - BitFenix Prodigy Arctic White
$75 - power supply - SilverStone Strider Plus ST50F-P 500W
$80 - hard drive - Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM

$689 - total

\Concerning the wifi/bluetooth card included with this motherboard, the wifi doesn't work with Mac OS X, but the bluetooth functionality does. If you need both wifi and bluetooth, I would suggest replacing the built-in card with the AR5BHB92 300 Mbps 802.11b/g/n wifi card for $31. This card doesn't have bluetooth, so if you want bluetooth you will also need a USB bluetooth adapter. The $13 IOGEAR GBU521 Bluetooth 4.0 Micro Adapter USB is compatible with Mountain Lion.

-----

If you still have some extra money, you might consider a graphics card. The $260 GTX 760 is compatible with Lion/Mountain Lion. A discrete graphics card probably won't help much with video editing, but it's great for gaming.

Instructions for installing Mountain Lion on a Hackintosh can be found at TonyMacX86. http://www.tonymacx86.com/61-unibeast-install-os-x-mountain-lion-any-supported-intel-based-pc.html

Thank you very much for helping me improve my chances!

• Model: Raspberry Pi 3 B+
  
• OS: Raspbian Stretch
  
• VPN Software: TOR
  
• USB Network Interface: TP-Link TL-WN725N
  
• USB Network Interface Firmware: Realtek RTL8188EUS 802.11n Wireless Network Adapter (I think, according to lsusb results)
  
  So do you think I just need to run a command to restart the USB port? Why doesn't it just do that on startup?
  
  ​

My first recommendation would be to if possible set up an Ethernet connection. That will most likely be your absolute best bet. However, if that is not possible at this time, getting a USB WiFi adapter (can be purchased locally at most tech stores or you can get something like this on Amazon, depending on your ISP's speeds) should serve you well for now.

I found the NUC itself at Frys Electronics on clearance for ~$150.

I got my SSD from Amazon: here

Got this RAM, because it has the best overall rating: Newegg

I just ordered today a WiFi+Bluetooth card, I have no idea if it is going to work though.. I mainly just need it for the bluetooth. Amazon


As far as how it works - it works great! I've been using it as my main machine for about a week or so now (coming from something a bit... beefier), and for every-day tasks it feels almost as snappy. Right now I've got a 720p video streaming as I type this up to you in Safari, and a Windows 8 VM in Parallels is running in the background.

Edit: whoops - i thought this was a direct message

Well, MobilePCIe/miniPCIe is the form factor, and if I were you I'd go with anything with an Atheros chipset, as those work best under linux.

So this seems to me to be a good one, especially at that price.

Thanks to everyone who's been helping me with these internet posts today!

Another one!

So, i bought this TP-Link N150 Wireless Nano USB Adapter (TL-WN725N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8Rfvyb6X9RTYW

I get 40 ping in rocket league and usually around 20-60 in bf4, so the games play just fine. Most of the time. But according to speedtest.net i get around 2.0 download speed and around 3.0 upload speed with ping avg around 16-40. Isn't that really shit? The games play fine but downloading something from steam is a nightmare. Why is the dl. So low? According to amazon, the adapter is rated for 150.

In comparison, my wireless pcie card on my other pc gets around 80 dl, through ethernet 80dl as well, and my package from comcast is 75 down. I am using
http://www.linksys.com/us/support-product?pid=01t80000003K7iqAAC for my router.

As long as you stay away from no-name Chinese stuff it should be fine. I recently bought this TP-Link for $10.

It worked with my settings as soon as I plugged it in, the speed is great, and though my WAP is sitting on my desk, I can connect and get good speed from the WAP in my wife's office completely on the other side of the house.

Okay. This is a bit embarrasing to ask, but if I buy one of those usb-looking wireless adapters like this one, would I not have to purchase a whole wireless card like this one?

Definitely!
I got this. I made absolutely sure it'd just work right out of the box, and apparently this one does the job nicely.

I have a a Pro 3. Best advice I saw and took was to buy a low profile USB dongle and sacrifice your only USB slot. Haven't looked back.

​

Here is the one I bought. A $20 solution to get your ~$100 solution working isn't too bad, I think.

I changed the parts around a bit. I searched around Newegg a bit more and was able to find a few deals that seemed better. I also should have stated the price has to be lower than $735 before rebates.

***

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $204.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI H81M-P33 LGA 1150 Intel H81 Motherboard | $48.99 @ Newegg
Memory | ADATA XPG V2 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory | $68.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Hitachi Ultrastar 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $52.00 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card | $249.99 @ Amazon
Case | Rosewill FB-04 Dual Fans ATX Mid Tower Computer Case | $29.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-LINK TL-WN725N Wireless N Nano USB Adapter 150Mbps | $8.88 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $725.22

***

I believe this is the build he will go with unless there is a problem present in it. Thanks for the help.

J'ai acheté un dongle wifi TP-Link pour mon Rapsberry Pi à la Coop. C'était 9.99$, enfaite c'est ça le prix qu'Amazon le vend aussi.

J'ai rien dit, mais c'est super utile pour le Pi haha!

Here are links to the bt/wifi card and adapter pcie card I ordered. I've used this same combo in my personal machine, before I upgraded my graphics card and lost High Sierra support, to great results as well

I found an unboxing video which clearly shows an m.2 expansion slot with the other IO, but I can't find a good picture of the IO shield. I found an Intel card, but it seems to come with neither antennas nor pigtails. How much does the motherboard supply? Surely the IO shield must have something the antennas attach to, right?

I don't sit particularly far from the router and was considering saving some money and getting the crappiest USB wifi adapter money can buy instead. It'll have the advantage of sitting on the front of the case.

I use coreelec and the N2, and while I use ethernet, my understanding is that coreelec supports several USB-Wifi adapters. This is a good thread on the topic:

https://discourse.coreelec.org/t/working-usb-wifi-ethernet-adapters-for-coreelec/548

For example, looks like this one would work:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B008IFXQFU

As others have said, your wireless probably isn't going to work any better after installing. When setting up Linux on a laptop, I always just swap out the Wi-Fi card with one of these. http://amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJCBV64 It's an Intel WiFi card, cheap ($25), 99% chance it's better and more future proof than what you have and you will have nothing but smooth sailing, since Intel actually creates kernel drivers for their hardware. On most laptops it's a 5 minute job swapping them out. Most laptops come with bottom of the barrel wi-fi cards, and can have poor signal, etc. So it's easier to just not worry about it.

I don't use Mint or Docky, so I can't really comment on that issue.

TP-Link USB adapter worked flawlessly for me and everyone I recommended it to for $10. It's tiny and handles whatever. I put it on front of my computer for best signal.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IFXQFU/

I've had issues with few others in the past.

I want to get a cheap usb Wi-Fi adapter to use while on vacation so I don't have to run an Ethernet cable through my relative's house. I'm looking for sub $20 on amazon. Would any of these support light multiplayer gaming? I'm showing my family VR games. Cheaper is better because this is probably the only time I'll use it.

OURLINK for $20

TP Link for $10

Wise Tiger for $13

Hey man - that wifi card will work, but - because it's designed for use in actual Apple machines - it's got a different connector. You'll have to use an adapter like this to get it to fit in your mini pci slot.

I have one running via an adapter in my PCIe x1 slot right now - great card. Also - if you need the Windows drivers for it, send me a PM (or take a look at Brigadier).

Ah, I see. I don't have any personal experience with this one, but it's well reviewed and TP-Link is generally an OK brand.

You could use a usb adapter such as ....

TRENDnet AC1900 High Power Dual Band Wireless USB Adapter, Increase Extend WiFi Wireless Coverage, High Gain Antennas, Stream 4K HD Video, USB 3.0 to USB Type A, Windows/Mac OS Compatible,TEW-809UB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EOQ61KI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5KpoDb432QYPT

Ah nuggets, then I'd suggest either this or this

They are still somewhat cheap and should work perfectly with no issues :)

That's a good unit, this or this are a bit nicer. Have you considered a powerline adapter instead of wifi?

There's no built in wireless adapter if that's what you're asking.

Honestly not very read up on the M.2 wireless adapters but if you have a free M.2 slot I don't see why you couldn't get an M.2 adapter (don't take my word for it, not read up very well on them).

Generally though M.2 slots deactivates some SATA ports so I'd probably opt for a PCI-e 4x4 MIMO wifi adapter for future proofing. ex. https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC88-AC3100-802-11AC-Adapter/dp/B01H9QMOMY (note, not a recommendation, just an example)

If you don't have a high speed connection or a good router it's probably a waste of money and most 1x1/2x2 PCI-e adapters would suffice.

As I said though, my knowledge on M.2 wireless adapters is limited but for one it's noteworthy that if you don't have a 3x3 or 4x4 router it'd be wasted resources to get much more than a 2x2 adapter.. Also questioning the performance of mounting it inside the computer compared to external antenna of a PCI-e.

P.S. I'd probably have let someone else comment on it but I've seen a few similar posts lately with no answer so I figured I'd share my opinion on it at least even if it may not be the most helpful.

I bought this one and haven't had any issues:

Bluetooth Adapter

Keep in mind they specify that there may be a difference based on whether you have a NATIVE (full OS install from disc) or UPGRADE (if you upgraded your OS from, say, Win 7/8). It looks like there is a compatibility difference.

Honestly, I'd send it back and get a better USB adapter. I bought this adapter, and it's caused me no issues so far. I'm sure other cheaper ones are out there though.

You can buy an external wireless card. This is pretty common when your builtin wireless card stops functioning. If your current wireless card is the issue then a new one will resolve this issue. Here are some examples from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493679602&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+wireless

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1493679602&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+wireless

Thanks, but will this work too? It's cheaper and I have Prime?


https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=wifi+adapter+usb&link_code=qs&qid=1569110383&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-4

​

Also, what kind of dongle will I need? I have this one for the memory card, but I assume I'll need something like this but with two USB ports?

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CXAC1ZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, getting a card is my next step if needed, but I'm hoping not to spend too much.

Here is the USB adapter I'm currently using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KV9TQXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I get a cheap card like this one (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN781ND/dp/B0036AFAEW/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480532133&sr=1-7&keywords=wireless+card), will it still get decent results? I don't want to throw down $60 for one of the higher end ones if I can avoid it.

I am pretty sure I own none of these games! You don't happen to need a Wireless USB adapter do you?

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407536531&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+usb

I have an extra one that's brand new and in box I can trade.

What piece of hardware are you using that is WiFi capable? I doubt the motherboard has WiFi built into it. Once you find out what you are using for WiFi hardware, just google the model number and download the driver specific to your operating system your using. Or use the disc that came with the hardware.
If you dont have any WiFi capable hardware, you can purchase a cheap USB dongle to help get you by http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414948421&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+usb

I cant find the 8265 either... but a ton of Intel wifi cards with all kinds of different names. I have no idea what the difference is.

For example this one is the best selling one on Amazon Germany https://www.amazon.de/WLAN-Mini-PCI-Express-INTEL-7260/dp/B00N7474CS/

and there are A LOT of different ones... this seems to be yours though https://www.amazon.de/Intel-8260-NGWMG-INTEL-Dual-Wireless-8260/dp/B0197W86IE

You can use a PCIe adapter like this or this

or you can use a USB wireless adapter like this or this

Ohhhh, everything makes more sense now lol.

I would suggest this for best performance, or this for cheaper/compact. Not sure how well these will work for live gaming, but they'll work just fine for web browsing and downloading games/programs.

Edit: as for your processor/hard drive choice, I would keep the G4600 and get a small SSD (80-120GB) if possible. That'll make a massive difference to boot times and shouldnt cost more than $50 or so.

Thanks! Yeah, I swapped out the mini adapter on my Hackintosh workstation with this. Is there any way to find out if the motherboard allows the replacement of the adapter, and if the replacement will work with the motherboard?

Latest Clonezilla is using kernel 4.9.6, so in theory anything that's supported in that.

I've got a TP-Link Wireless N dongle that I know is supported in Linux without any extra work, but I'd need to check if Clonezilla itself supports it. I would imagine it would, but you never know.

EDIT: By "I know is supported" I mean I installed Antergos on a box back in January without using it, and when I booted up that box the other night with that adapter installed and the ethernet jack disconnected, it prompted me to choose a wireless network. No extra drivers needed.

Here's the one that they use and Windows drivers should exist. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B5A0F0?ie=UTF8&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=6738&tag=skos-20&creativeASIN=B009B5A0F0

But the only way to tell is through reviews honestly. There isn't really a good way to tell if one is good or bad just by looking at it or looking at a spec sheet.

My best advice is try to get one that is dual-band. They tend to be a little higher quality. Not guarantee though.

Out of curiosity, you talked about the 4x4 and the 2x2 is there any benefit to have a 4x4 adapter on a two 2x2 network? I do own a single 4x4 and it is this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H9QMOMY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1.

Edit

I know there is an ethernet cable wired from the room where the modem is to the wall and I believe it goes back to a box in the laundry room, there is a second ethernet cable in there that I believe goes to the exact opposite corner of the house. I am sure if I were to get some kind of ethernet coupler that could give me the cable to the other end of the house.

I'm looking at wifi/Bluetooth cards.

QUESTION 1: Because numerous things inside a computer generate EM interference in the same range as wifi/BT, it appears that it's better to have a card with a separate antenna connected by a wire, like this (as opposed to antennas screwed directly onto the card, like this) This is so the antenna can be placed away from the tower to minimize EMI, thus minimizing connection drops and slow speeds.

Am I correct on this? Is there really that big of a difference in performance between the two approaches? My tower sits on the floor to the left of my (fairly small, wooden) desk, in case that makes a difference.


QUESTION 2: Heat sinks/passive cooling cannot possibly be necessary on a wifi/BT card, right? Do those cards ever reach temps high enough to reduce performance or lifespan?

QUESTION 3: Are there any notable advantages or disadvantages to using an M.2 card for wifi/BT instead of traditional PCIe?

How old is your laptop? What version of Microsoft are you on (Windows 7, Windows 8, Windows 10)?

Because you are the only one affected it may be a circumstance where your laptop operating system or the Wifi card (internal Wifi antenna) are straight up malfunctioning.

What happens when you try to connect? Does it say that your connection failed? Does it say that you are connected but with no internet?

After trying to connect you can try to right click on the Wifi status in the bottom right of your task bar and select "Troubleshoot Problems". This wizard is pretty straight forward and will do a software reset of your Wifi Card if it thinks that there is a problem. If the problem persists you can get an external Wifi card for rather cheap[Example].

As for restarting your router, a power cycle should not affect the settings that were changed - think about what happens if the power goes out for example, everything comes back on like normal when the power does. He maybe confused by the terms the support rep used or maybe the rep thought your dad meant to hard reset the modem by the button on the back (most have them but I can't say for certain about your unit)(ALSO, do not touch this button).

Let me know if you have questions or if you try any of the things I suggested; I would be interested to know what works!

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDN4H9E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hope you are using an adaptor? seeing I think that is proprietary Apple connector?!?!

I've used something like this. It's tiny and I never notice it. The better option is to just connect with an Ethernet cord of course. Faster and less ping.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397974418&sr=1-2&keywords=usb+wireless+adapter

Something like this will be just as good
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-desktop-10-9-10-14-Archer-T2U/dp/B07P5PRK7J/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=WiFi+adapter&qid=1574972872&s=pc&sr=1-7

Not the biggest and the baddest, but I always have one or two of these on hand.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2LZSS68P0B5JA&keywords=usb+wireless+adapter&qid=1565881705&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=usb+wireless+%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-3

Your machine has a mini-pcie slot for its Wi-Fi card. The best one available is this.

Page 91 of this Service Manual shows you how to replace it.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

I don't see anyone else recommending a 4x4 AC wave2 wifi adapter, which until 802.11ax is out should be the best. Assuming you have a 4x4 AC wave2 router of course.

I bought this one to use for my Xbox One controller and Wiimote and it works great

https://www.amazon.ca/Avantree-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer-Keyboard/dp/B076GY91CM

Do you have a router that supports MU-MIMO technology?

If so, this one will work well:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC88-AC3100-802-11AC-Adapter/dp/B01H9QMOMY/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=pcie+wifi+3x3&qid=1565575856&s=electronics&sr=1-7

I have a wireless usb adapter on mine to give it that internet connection, like this one. Makes it very handy to copy files from my laptop to the arcade pc and download updates easily.

Buy this mini usb wifi adapter from TP-LINK

TP-Link TL-WN725N N150 USB wireless WiFi network Adapter for pc with SoftAP Mode - Nano Size, Compatible with Windows XP/7/8/8.1/10 - Mac OS 10.6~10.11 - Linux Kernal 2.6~3.16

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU

Price only $7.99 super slim, small and elegan

Thanks! I'm gonna set it up. The same adapter is on Amazon, too.

The stock wifi cards that shipped with the T420s will not work with macOS.

You need to flash the modified BIOS that will bypass Lenovo's "whitelist" check and then install an alternate wifi card that is compatible.

An inexpensive wifi card that is compatible with macOS and will just work out of the box in the T420s without any configuration is the Dell DW1510. This is probably the most popular Mini PCIe hackintosh wifi card available. This card will also work fine under Windows or Linux.

Sounds like your Wi-Fi device is possible faulty, since you are using a five year old device a Wi-Fi dongle like this, or this, is recommended.

If you use an internal one you can prevent yourself form installing another GPU, and in some cases (many microatx boards) you can't have a GPU plus any PCI-e 1x device. Get a USB one. They are easier to install, move around for better signal, and can go from pc to pc with no problems. I'd reccomend http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU or http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG for cheap ones. The second will have better signal.

I bought a card from Amazon and installed it into my 2012 rmbp. Auto unlock now works. I will say that the feature will occasionally fail to work and I will have to enter my password. This happens maybe 1 out of 10 times? I've read that it happens to natively supported macs as well. This is the card I bought - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDN4H9E/
The card was recognized immediately, internet recovery works fine as well.

If that's the only device having the problem.. then it probably indicates the WiFi card itself is dying. Looks like you can get a replacement on Amazon for about $80: http://www.amazon.com/Bigfoot-Networks-KillerN-1103-Notebook-Wireless/dp/B005GA1N7I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405270233&sr=8-1&keywords=killer+wireless+n+1103

Another approach would be to download a bootable Linux distro (such as Ubuntu or Mint).. and boot your system to that and test WiFi to see if it drops under Linux also. Linux may use more generic drivers... so it may work more reliably.. but if it does drop (under Linux).. then that's a pretty clear indication it's a hardware problem.

Well, yea that's another option - he's just using a USB adapter instead. Like he says in the video, it's only $10:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-150Mbps/dp/B008IFXQFU/

here, I found an EXCELLENT usb one that no one seems to have issues with. https://smile.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Techkey-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B077HRTYFK/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511835160&sr=1-13&keywords=bluetooth+usb

PCIe recommendation: https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wirless-Bluetooth-PCI/dp/B01E85QIFI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511835340&sr=8-2&keywords=pcie+bluetooth

It depends on which model you get. For PCIe it's pretty straightforward and are usually included - see this for an example.

If you need mini-PCIe, then you need four U.FL to RP-SMA adapters and four antennas (like this 2-pack)

I honestly don't know, I've just seen people complaining that their cards aren't working after updating to Yose. Maybe they have models without natively supported chipsets and this one will work fine, I haven't bothered to check.

But there's no point, this and this will get you natively supported WiFi that will never break for less money than the card listed in the OP.

Internal: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254319040664

Good External: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-desktop-10-9-10-14-Archer-T2U/dp/B07P5PRK7J/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=usb+3.0+wifi+adapter&qid=1566940368&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+3.0+wifi+&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNDFNQzVERlJCMTBXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjA4NDcwQzJRSjVKVDIwSEFPJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMzAzMzYySk83SDhOQUtUWlg1JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

External I have: https://www.newegg.ca/p/0XM-000R-00044?item=9SIAKH39FJ3916&source=googleshopping&nm_mc=knc-googleadwordscamkpl-mobile&cm_mmc=knc-googleadwordscamkpl-mobile-_-pla-amoy-_-network+-+wireless+adapters-_-9SIAKH39FJ3916&gclid=CjwKCAjwqZPrBRBnEiwAmNJsNrY3RDZmvmoblCm9S0kDAtghRBeVZGXXhug5LdZNMBF4JbCP4L1ePhoCBZAQAvD_BwE

I ordered this one.

Wifi Adapter Wireless N Adapter 300Mbps 2.4GHz Wifi Usb with High Gain External Antenna for Windows 10/8.1/8/7/XP/Vista/Mac OS X 10.6-10.13- Installation Fast, Just 3 Minutes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KV9TQXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FPGYBbRF6YS29

Will this fix my predicament with the laptop not being able to connect to my wifi?

Is it a desktop? You'll probably need a wireless adapter of some kind, this is probably the easiest way to get wireless.

For audio download [this driver](http://www.realtek.com/downloads/downloadsCheck.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false#High Definition Audio Codecs) and see if it works.

I'd say they're probably about the same thing ... the tp-link is advertising some smart-home fluff like alexa compatibility and IFTTT compatibility. How many devices are you going to be running off of it ... these are a bit overkill for most situations ?

Here's two expamples of the type of wifi adapter you'll probably want if you do decide to go with one of these routers:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B01H9QMOMY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502291134&sr=1-3&keywords=wifi%2Badapter%2Bpcie&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-PCI-Express-Beamforming-Archer-T9E/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502291113&sr=1-2&keywords=wifi+adapter+pcie

two options - open up the laptop & make sure the wires for the antenna havent become loose/disconnected, and if so, reconnect them. if that doesnt resolve, then get something like https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU

Just get a wireless USB adapter, only $10 and free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487886389&sr=1-5&keywords=USB+Wifi

Get your self something like this for playing with Kali.

This card works fantastic! Amazon.com link

I followed a guide on http://x220.mcdonnelltech.com/ to make my hackintosh. It solved any problems I had.

You have a couple of options: Internal wireless card, or USB wireless card.

there's tons of different brands and price-points, but they essentially do the same thing. If you want to find more, on Amazon or ebay or whatever search "PCI Wireless card' for the internal, and "USB Wireless card" for the USB one.

Not OP but Is there any difference between using this card and just using say a USB adapter like this

this

It only supports 150mbps, but I use it on worse WiFi and it works great, just put it in a USB port and you can connect. There are probably versions that can take the full 200mbps out there.

This is a bit expensive, but you could use something like this half way through to get your ethernet from end to end.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Gigabit-Extender-802-3at-802-3af/dp/B00ZOO32WA

You could also stick a 2-port outdoor accesspoint in the middle.

The 8260 is only 25 bucks on amazon, not a huge investment and is probably what i will end up doing: https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE/

The upside is the xps 15 is easy to work on, so replacing it should be a snap.

Assuming you can't run a cable to your router, these are the most powerful USB wifi units I could find:

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Nighthawk-AC1900-Adapter-A7000-10000S/dp/B073JHHNJ9/

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-USB-AC68-Dual-Band-Adapter-Included/dp/B01I7QFR10/

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-AC1900-Wireless-Adapter-TEW-809UB/dp/B01EOQ61KI/

What usb dongle are you using? They have small form factor ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_13983791_1&pf_rd_p=77c4ee30-f0a9-5bb6-b6f5-56d3a9f5111d&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=13983791&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=BQGGQDFWYJ3PG3K43BGQ&pf_rd_r=BQGGQDFWYJ3PG3K43BGQ&pf_rd_p=77c4ee30-f0a9-5bb6-b6f5-56d3a9f5111d

Do you use wifi or ethernet?

Ethernet you're covered. Wifi you need something like https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-Wireless-External-OS10-6-10-12-Installation/dp/B00KV9TQXM/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484613609&sr=1-3&keywords=wifi+expansion+card

this

or


http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=TP-N881ND&c=CJ

this

Why are cable options out? Distance, or lack of path?

If distance, you can use PoE to extend Copper pretty far.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-POEEXT1GAT-Gigabit-Extender-802-3at/dp/B00ZOO32WA

A small USB adapter like this could fill in for wifi if it won't be too inconvenient.

then a wireless network adapter is the way to go This is a good option

Others have stated that TP-Link is a good bet, personnally i have 5 or 6 of these on my various machines at home, works out of the box every time (tested on Debian, Ubuntu, Arch, Raspbian).

Here's one, it has an antenna so theoretically you'll get better connection as opposed to a micro dongle.

Here's the approved Wi-Fi adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU And the Inateck OTG hub: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00OCBXIY8

Do you need a new router? If there's a PC of any kind in your house you should be able to just buy a £5 wireless USB dongle and have it run as a hotspot sharing that PC's connection.

Get the newer intel 8265. It's $26 on Amazon link and free one day shipping (in my area anyways)

BIOS Version 1.0.9
Make sure you also downloaded the new BIOS that just released the other day
LINK (Assuming you have the 17R4 as your title says, but you wrote 17R3 in comments)

Is this good?: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC88-AC3100-802-11AC-Adapter/dp/B01H9QMOMY
Thank you!

So the computer is performing amazing however my ping has been fluctuating and going up and down a lot not just in games but when I am browsing also. Any fix to this? I was thinking maybe it's because of the cheap wifi adapter I bought. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486612811&sr=8-3&keywords=nano+usb+wifi

It's possible to upgrade the Wifi card in the 7567, with the most common upgrade being an Intel 8260 or 8265. You can find them for roughly $25-$30 online.

Amazon Link to 8260: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502720437&sr=8-2&keywords=intel+8265

Amazon Link to 8265: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-8265-NGWMG-BlueTooth-Brown/dp/B01MZA1AB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502720437&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+8265

My Bigfoot Killer N 1103 half mini pci-e works OK. It's based on Atheros AR9380 chip so support in Linux is great (no non-free firmware needed).

There is no guarantee that the wifi card itself is why your wifi doesn't work. You would be better off getting a usb wifi adapter. Here is one that is just under 8 bucks.

Yes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IFXQFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one

Might not be possible due to your distance from the Access Point. 5.0 has the possibility to give you faster speeds. But 5 doesn't have the distance that 2.4 does.

If all you have is USB for wireless, find something with an external https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-desktop-10-9-10-14-Archer-T2U/dp/B07P5PRK7J/ref=sr_1_4?crid=CC3OVWFMGC2E&keywords=wireless+usb+antenna+for+pc&qid=1566377598&s=gateway&sprefix=wireless+usb+antenn%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-4 antenna on it. almost 5,00 people like this one.

I've got the GA-H87N-WIFI and while bluetooth worked natively with the included card, WiFi did not.

Then I ordered a BCM94360CD from a Late 2013 iMac and a Mini PCI-E adapter and I've got native bluetooth and wifi with full Handoff/Continuity functionality without any other changes necessary.

Wireless Apple Keyboard and Magic Mouse work in BIOS and everything. Getting them to work in Windows has been hit and miss, but installing the Boot Camp drivers allowed me to use them seamlessly between boots at one point.

If you go the native card route, probably will need to add extra antennas to get decent WiFi performance since your motherboard will only come with two antennas. BCM94360CD has 3 WiFi and 1 bluetooth antennas, although just plugging in to the two center ports is enough for basic continuity/handoff functionality.

I'm not sure if there are any non-native wifi/bluetooth cards that Continuity will accept, but you might be able to get a Broadcom card working as long as you have Bluetooth 4.0 and use this activation tool. Intel cards are a bust.

Wireless USB dongle?

Something like this -

TP-Link N150 Wireless Nano USB Adapter (TL-WN725N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jEf6yb1KGKVK5

I recommend finding a wireless usb adapter, it's simpler to use imo

the one I could find currently is this

I have this one it does the job very well: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495218324&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=tp+linkusb+wi+fi

To me it looks like you want the half size mini pci-e slot m2 type such as this. https://amzn.com/B00HJCBV64

Which is different from the B or M key ones they use for SSDs.

Not totally sure though -- I am not an expert in this area.

Edit: I looked closely at the slot for the wifi card on the board and compared it to the different m.2 types to guess which one was right.

The problem with booting without the flash drive is probably related to the EFI partition on your hard drive not being set up correctly. Try mounting the EFI partition with a program like Clover Configurator and confirm that everything is on the partition inside the folder entitled EFI. You've probably already seen it, but the guide here has everything you need for macOS on the T420.

A good guide to get iMessage working is available here.

Two WiFi adapters that will work out-of-the-box in the T420 and require no configuration whatsoever in macOS are the Dell DW1510 and Dell DW1515. You will need to install a modified BIOS without the WiFi whitelist to use either one of these cards. That modified BIOS is available here.

Before you bail on Windows, make sure to patch your BIOS to get WiFi working.

This is the Wi-Fi card I have: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LP52BNI/

I'm 100% sure that is an intel 8260 wifi+bluetooth card.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Dual-Band-Wireless-8260/dp/B0197W86IE

CPU and GPU are under some copper pipe/plate.

oops I added two by accident. Will this adapter work?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M0Q51UI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1CG9BNSUV962M&psc=1

Because it has no brand or idk what brand it is.

And another question: will I need to add more case fans? or the provided ones are ok from the case.

And how good is the mother board at only 60$, will it allow future graphic card upgrades?

I have a 2012 retina MBP. Works perfectly fine but did not support the unlock with watch feature. After some searching, I found you can do it if you just swap out the wifi card. Cost me $40 and a half hour of my time. I can confirm 100% this card works. Read the reviews.

Any little unit like this; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008IFXQFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491194658&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+wireless+network+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31uyNgF8t1L

A 3x3 AC like that TP-Link should be fine. You should get 300 to 400 Mbps with it from 15-20 feet, which is what I get with a Macbook Pro.

There is also the Asus PCE-AC88, which is a 4x4 AC. It's substantially more expensive. IMO, it's overkill for one computer but to each their own.

Now, the WiFi won't work with the current card that's in it correct?

What's a good card that for sure works and is compatible? A guy in an iOS Jailbreaking Discord sent me this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP52BNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kRvtAbZ8813M7) but he only said it "should" work.

Get a card that is listed as a Universal one. (Can't tell on your link because it looks like it is a bad link). This Intel Universal AC card for example.

Also, make sure to get one that is returnable, just in case. But one of the 'universal' ones should work fine.

Amazon Link It dozen say anything about not working or working with 5G, all it says is works well with 2.4G routers

> 7265


I don't know what that is I was referring to the XPS 13 9350 Developer Edition


I have the Intel 8260 it will work in the 9350 as well.

You might as well just buy a NIC for that price. What head end router do you have anyway?

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

Could be that your NIC died or maybe it's a driver issue. Either way the simplest solution is to buy this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU if you need a quick fix since troubleshooting issues like these can take a very long time.

Even if the warranty isn't over, there's nothing stopping you from swapping it.

The one my laptop uses is $19.99 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE

this works with linux natively (I have it on my raspberry) but if you want something a little cheaper I bought this for my brother's laptop a while back and it's still working.

Im using the TP Link 150Mbps Wireless N Nano USB Adapter (Model No. TL-WN725N)
Link: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395410816&sr=8-1&keywords=tl+wn725n

But I must say I tried OpenElec and Xbian, and I only managed to get it working on OpenElec because it worked 'Out-of-the-Box' :)

Extreme casual
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uHuvybHTDKRNX

You can buy the DW1510.
You can find it on chinese Websites or on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LP52BNI/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mcdotechserv-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00LP52BNI&linkId=af7dde72b8c3f9f87a34dd27b4125ea7

I've never bought anything other than cheap ones from amazon. This is the one I've bought several of recently.

yes, it is a powered USB hub, was worried that with the wifi, IR adapter and a USB stick it was too much power for the Pi, I bought it from amazon canada

I bought this dongle for this weeks ago. When it works, it is great, but every time i reboot my computer it screws is all up. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KV9TQXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What adapter do you use?

No, you need Wi-Fi of some sort. If you can't add a Wi-Fi router, you might be able to purchase an inexpensive dongle (like this one) and run a Wi-Fi network from your computer. Otherwise, you'll have to rely on public Wi-Fi networks like at a library or restaurant.

No, that's full size PCIe. Like this. There's a small vertical card near the SATA ports, that's the card you need to replace. The antennas use a standard connector (that can be a little fiddly).

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Im thinking about getting the ASUS AC88 Wifi adapter
(Because I cant run Ethernet to the room and various Powerline adapters have not worked out for few different reasons)

Anyway my question is it safe to assume that if my phone can consistently connect to my 5ghz signal this adapter can too? The only real reason I’m getting this specific adapter is because of the reach because my router is a bit far.

The price is a bit out there but I’m tired of it at this point and just want something that’s gonna work well and deliver the speeds I should be getting. My phone can always hit 120-150 Mbps while my computer jumps around 5-25 through Powerline/cheap USB WiFi adapters.

Try Wireless USB Adapter. Simply plug the device into laptop's USB port. The price of 498 right now at Amazon is over priced. You could get it at cheaper price at offline computer shop

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU

TP-Link | N150 USB wireless WiFi network Adapter for PC with SoftAP Mode - Nano Size, Compatible with Windows XP/7/8/8.1/10 - Mac OS 10.6~10.13 - Linux Kernal 2.6.18~4.4.3 (TL-WN725N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cdckDbFYAMH4V