Reddit mentions: The best laptop replacement parts

It honestly depends on your budget, how much are you willing to spend?

Here is a great list of prep and upgrades you can do to bring success to your prints:

-Get Vibration Dampners: I can not express how much joy these things have brought many users. The make your machine quiet and greatly decrease ringing in your prints since they ABSORB the vibration coming from your stepper motors. You really only need Two of these for the X and Y axis however you can get another two for the Z-axis drives if you plan on doing a lot of z-hopping.

-BUY FILAMENT IN ADVANCE: get some PLA/ABS/PETG or whatever you want to try printing with. The filament you get with the printer for the most part is garbage HOWEVER I recommend dialing in those settings first then throwing on some nice filament, it'll feel soooo nice. Some commonly accepted/appreciated brands are: eSun PLA+, Hatchbox, Solutech and more

-Get a PEI sheet: Seems like you mentioned this in your post but PEI sheets eliminate the use of gluesticks/tape/hairspray and provide excelent adhesion while making it easy to remove the part after it's cool. This things like to be hot though so increase your bed temp a little at first

-Buy New Fans: The stock hotend/power unit fans are Loud, Noisy and Inefficient. I recommend getting 1 new conrol box fan, 1 new hot end fan and 1 new part blower fan.
You will need 1 40mm fan, 1 50mm fan and a Blower fan or another 40/50mm fan depending on if you print a new hot end mount like a fang.

-Tighten every screw on the printer: You would be surprised how many screws initially are lose either from prior testing or such. Also make sure to test your belt tensions on your printer whne you get it. You want everything tight BUT NOT TOO TIGHT. Give it a snug fit then let it be. Also make sure your belts are 'pluckable' like a guitar string but not tought

-Get some bearings: You may want to get a few ball bearings for when you print out a new filament holder, the stock filament holder is terrible

-Buy some fasteners: M3 bolts and nuts are commonly used on the CR-10S having spares or additional fasteners for adding on parts/printed components to your printer is awesome to have on hand

-Replace the Hotend: This can get a bit frustrating but it can be worth it. If you want you can replace the hotend with something like a volcano or an all metal hot end to print at higher temperatures. With this you can also add on autoleveling if you have the correct mount printed

-Octoprint: I am not very familiar with octoprint since I don't use it myself however I know it can run on a CR-10S. If you want look into how to install octoprint on stock firmware, I know it's pretty easy to use a raspberrypi to remote into your printer as well using octoprint.

-Squash Feet: Replacing your stock machine 'feet' with squash balls or squishy gold balls can also help absorb vibrations from your machine to your table or where it is located. This helps a bit with part quality but it's mostly to reduce the noise carried through your furniture.

-Solder on connectors: If you want you can get some pin connectors to make your fans/electronics easy to switch out depending on your material you are printing, maybe you need a strong part fan or maybe you need a weaker one. It is easy to swap out if it's using a 4pin connector.

-Make an Enclosure: What could be nicer for your printer than a stable environment. Making an enclosure for your printer can help if you live in a rough climate area or if you want to reduce the noise as well.

-Get some Handtools: I'm not sure if you have any or not but some great tools to have are a screwdriver, hexwrenches and a soldering iron depending on how much work you want to be doing on your printer.

For convenience I've added some of the parts mentioned via an Amazon link for prices. I'm not saying buy these things exactly they are just a starting point for reference:

Nima Vibration Dampners:https://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Rubber-Vibration-Dampers-Printer/dp/B073FRZTDX/

40mm Fan (Noctua Brand): https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-FLX-premium-quality-quiet/dp/B072JK9GX6/

Blower Fan (Part Fans):https://www.amazon.com/SoundOriginal-Humidifier-Aromatherapy-Appliances-Replacement/dp/B071WMHNG5/

PEI Sheet/Printer Surface:https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Printer-Surface-Creality-300x300mm/dp/B07543KHCT/

Squash Feet: https://www.amazon.com/PrideSports-Practice-Balls-Count-Yellow/dp/B00466W9X0/

M3 Bolts/Nuts:https://www.amazon.com/280Pcs-Grade12-9-Socket-Assortment-Storage/dp/B0742DDLQ1/

Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint: https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASPBERRYPI3-MODB-1GB-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92/

Ball Bearings: https://www.amazon.com/625ZZ-Shielded-Groove-Precision-Bearings/dp/B01LWMT95S/

Hope this helps, have fun tinkering!

My Mini did that all the time. It's a problem with heat creep. It's getting too warm too high up which softens the plastic, allowing it to curl around. My Mini has been a workhorse for nearly a year and I think it's mostly a very solid machine, but the stock cooling setup sucks. A single 30mm fan for heatsink and layer/part cooling just doesn't cut it.

Easiest solution is to upgrade the fan. Even sticking something like a 40x10mm fan onto the original shroud with an adapter will help a little. A 50x15mm blower will do even better (they just move so much more air). Snip/strip the wire for the original fan, do the same for the new fan, then twist red to red, black to black and put some insulation on it. Doing that would fix the heat creep and also improve overall print quality since you can cool the extruded material better too.

Other solution would be to swap the hotend. Something like an E3D V6 or a decent clone will improve print quality, allow for a wider variety of materials and also not suffer from that problem since they're just designed better. Swapping hotends sounds really invasive, but it's actually pretty darn simple. Print a 2-in-1 fan duct and put one of those bigger fans on it and you'll practically never have that problem again.

Absolutely not a hijack.

Your HP G1 250 has those "chicklet" keys right?

http://i.imgur.com/JADuctd.jpg

They're not recessed but are the sort of raised little slabs? You can clean the shit out of those with a tooth brush (dipping the bristles in cleaner as you go) and a handful of cotton swabs. Just don't get it too wet while doing so -- be on the safe side and disconnect the battery and power cord just in case a tiny bit of moisture gets inside (it should not, they're designed as a sealed unit with a second catch tray under the keyboard that contains the LED back lighting to stop minor wet accidents like a dribble of coffee/water/etc.)

Just don't be too liberal with your cleaner (don't get the brush dripping wet) and you'll be fine. It'll take a bit of work but you should be able to get it clean like the day you bought it (minus the paint wear off the letters of course).

Shop towels (the blue ones) work great if you don't have any micro fibre cloths handy (mind you, those things are 4 for a buck at the dollar store so maybe go get a pack of em :).

The keys also pop out, you just have to gently work them out without levering them too much and you won't break the clips that hold them in.

If you find you have to replace the keyboard, it's not easy but it's not that hard, the only tricky part is popping the 3 tabs without breaking the clips. The upside is it's a modular repair and not a bunch of parts.

This is your service manual page 54 shows how to replace your keyboard if you have to do so. You can get a generic replacement part for 25 bucks. I didn't check the price from HP but it's probably $100 or more (the generic compatible one is perfectly fine).

But you should be able to just clean it if none of the keys are dead.

Sucks about the fans. If you want something that moves an absolutely ridiculous amount of air, this Noctua fan is probably your best bet, with a price to match. There is also this slightly cheaper option made by Silverstone. One last option, if you're ok with a super thick 120mm fan, you can go for this $14 Koolance fan, which is probably the best option if money is a concern. There is also a bigger cousin that Koolance fan, for around $24, that moves air better than anything else I listed here, but is crazy loud.

Awesome that Thermalright is sending a new cooler. That's amazing customer service. You should switch out the mounting hardware and all, see if maybe something was just not within spec.

Intel was always going to say that, they have to stand behind their shitty thermal compound choice.

As far as whether you should have SL bin your chip or not, that's up to you. I personally enjoy the act of finding the maximum stable overclock; If you don't enjoy it, and feel like the extra $20 is worth not having to deal with it, then go for it. I personally feel like AVX offset is cheating, and I know that sentiment is shared by at least a couple of people, but that comes down to your personal workload too.

H500P Mesh news, in case you haven't seen it- https://youtu.be/iVrqEfDbCko?t=51

No news about H500M from what I've seen- Maybe consider contacting Coolermaster customer support about it. I'm loving my SE (and yeah, I ordered mine from that link). I'll let you know if I see a nice case go on a crazy sale.

Here is my Hotend setup

• I decided to run with the V6 Heavy Duty Mount. Had to use the "alt" version for the EZABL wing and flip it in my slicer to get it on the left side. The "alt" version makes it so it won't hit the gantry. The offsets are in the Thingiverse description that you will update with the "CUSTOM_PROBE" setting in the TH3D firmware you will have to update.
  
  
• For my parts fans, I wanted something highly reviewed, well priced and rated high. These 5015 fans come in a 2-pack for really good price and seem to be the best reviewed on Amazon. I went with them and noticed no whining or issues. No matter what, you will have a louder sound with blower fans (but not horrible, even with 2).
  
  
• For the hotend fan, I went with the Noctua 40mm x 20mm version (12v but Ender runs on 24v. Need a buck converter as described below). Sure, it's a bit pricier but it's quiet and pushes air enough to cool. Noctua has a great 6 year warranty on it and I'm sure the crappy chinese fans will have to be purchased multiple times within the same period, making it the same cost. Just make sure to get the PWM version instead of the FLX. No worries about cutting the cable because it comes with adaptors you can cut.
  
  If you decide to go with a regular 24v fan, you won't need the buck converter I talk about below.
  
  Unless you have a multimeter and want to mess around with getting the voltage right (which isn't hard), grab a buck converter like this with a display and hook up the 40mm fan to it. The little gold screw is for adjusting the voltage. If you run with the Noctua I mentioned above, you will have to set that to roughly 12v.
  
  Sooooooooo
  
  With all that being said, just splice all the wires and solder them or attach connectors that run from the fans to the wires. You are essentially replacing the fans with the same wires from the new fans. It's a pretty easy process. I want to say you definitely should plan out how you want to organize everything beforehand. Zipties are great. If you use the buck converter because you need 12v, the input side and output side are labeled on the converter so pay attention to that.
  

Hey everyone! I'm back for more help with Mastering out my HP stream mini 200-010.

Specs for the Little Guys Base Model I'm still working mostly with

So I've upgraded the First SSD. I've got my eye on some nice DDR3l ram.

Whats bothering me is that a lot of the upgrade guides suggests an HDD for the second drive (which the HP stream mini does have a rack slot for).

The suggested piece is This Little Beauty here. Connected to the board via Cutey of a cord

Now, while I don't have a problem with this (my tower has a split SSD/HDD going on), an Idea came to mind. Why Do I want an HDD and not another SSD? Im pretty sure That would be awesome, save my little Buddy some heat and power draw. So I would like if my fellow PC builders could suggest a Similarly priced SSD with the same (or more) amount of Space and, Cost around the same as the suggested upgrade that can also fit into this tiny things Drive rack.

Repost, Are my amazon links better now?

​

TLDR. Im looking for a reliable 2.5-Inch 7mm internal SSD with Around 500gb for around 40 bucks. Plus its ribbon cord.

Yeah. If you read the reply to the first comment, base models start at $150 usually, some have upgraded RAM, CPUs, or hard drives. If you watched the entire video the video card on this model is difficult to properly upgrade without getting advanced.


This one is the bone stock model with a completely default configuration. It's $154.


The i7 640m is about $80.


DDR3 SO-DIMMs are pretty cheap, I have a whole bin of them (like 15 4gb sticks).


The neutered GTS 450 is $46 and opens a whole new realm for the notebook due to the 2gb of memory and adds DX11 support. Best upgrade for this laptop right now IMHO. The K2000M has double the cores but isn't much faster than the regular 2000M because to make that double core count matter you also need to double the TMUs and ROPs. Also the memory isn't GDDR5. SO for the vaule the 2000M is the best choice.


The 1TB SSHD I have is also around $60.


A better motherboard from a different model fits and you shouldn't pay more than $65 for it. This has two additional memory slots and adds quad core support for that i7 I mentioned earlier. Pay attention to the listings as someone may send you the version with only 2 RAM slots.


If you want a GTA 5 laptop for cheap, this is the way to go. But you gotta get a good charger hahaha

1. Motor stopper dampeners. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These will greatly reduce sound on your machine.
   
2. X and Y motor supports Y = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845950 X = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793110 with dampeners. This'll help alleviate belt tension on the motor/belts and quiet the pritner even more. You'll need some M3x40mm screws for this.
   
3. Flash the firmware with Marlin and enable the heat runaway options. This will stop the printer from burning down your house if a critical error occurs. https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
   
4. Add a Mirror tile to your bed. Most CR10s beds bow in the middle. Mirrors are totally flat, so just make a mirror your new print bed/print bed base.
   
5. Print the Petsfang upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 and get a Noctua 40mm fan. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a 50mm blower fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can choose if you want the 10 or 20mm noctua fans. Petsfang page says all the screws you'll need.
   
6. Print some support stuff and get some rods to make supports. This'll reduce your print height by 20mm, but it'll greatly stabilize your printer when you do large prints, alleivating weird artifacting when the print gets higher up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805226
   
7. Get a better Boaing tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I'm not sure if this is the best out there.)
   
8. A steel wear resistant nozzle if you wanna print things other than PLA/TEPG.
   
9. A PEI plate to make it much easier to get prints off. Preferably a flexible one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDQF7KQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
10. A spool mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2440814 which will lets you use bigger spools all while greatly reducing the amount of strain on the extruder and the noise that the filliment makes when it turns.
    
11. Control box cooling fan and base. I've yet to install this one myself as I'm not sure how to wire up the fans, but this'll greatly reduce fan noise and keep the control box super cool. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729888 It'll also remove the problem where if the print goes over 300mm in height where the filiment can sometimes snap due to strain.
    
12. A BLTouch to make bed leveling automatic more or less. I've yet to install this myself. https://www.amazon.com/ANTCLABS-BLTouch-Leveling-Premium-Extension/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bltouch&qid=1562832293&s=industrial&sr=1-3
    
    ​
    
    Anyone got any others?

From the information provided, we can probably get you out of this mostly unscathed. For starters, I don't think you have to worry about any damage to the internal components. The keyboard on the Yoga 920 has precisely one trillion screws affixing it to the chassis, and the gaps which could lead to the motherboard are minimal. That being said, there is still a pretty good chance that your keyboard is fugged. There is a very small chance that one of the fans needs cleaning as well.


So we have two options here:

1. yolo and turn the thing on after letting it sit for a good chunk of time so that maybe any water inside dries and doesn't short the motherboard when you turn it back on. Then try the keyboard to see if it's working.
   
   
2. preemptively take the notebook apart (this is not as scary as it sounds - computers are essentially just adult legos) and let it air dry, which will let you manually inspect the motherboard for any spillage and clean it. This is also a good opportunity to check the fan and do any cleaning that needs to be done. Once you're confident that everything is dry, reassemble it, boot it up, and test the keyboard.
   
   
   If the keyboard doesn't work, you'll have to take the laptop apart (or take it apart again, if you already did it in step 2, and replace the keyboard.
   
   I highly recommend getting this iFixit kit if you're going to take the notebook apart.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/iFixit-Essential-Electronics-Toolkit-Do-everything/dp/B01MRNIFR6/ref=pd_sbs_469_t_1/141-5166025-6730510?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MRNIFR6&pd_rd_r=83be4ca4-5d0d-4d14-a9f2-9670777f914f&pd_rd_w=ytM6H&pd_rd_wg=kOteO&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=QRPD39WM0Q9M4DKW7MC6&psc=1&refRID=QRPD39WM0Q9M4DKW7MC6
   
   As for disassembling the laptop, this is a pretty good guide on this exact model:
   
   https://www.laptopmain.com/lenovo-yoga-920-disassembly-ssd-ram-upgrade-options/
   
   And here is a replacement keyboard:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Laptop-Replacement-Keyboard-920-13IKB-Backlight/dp/B07MNBZ3C6

E3D V6 hotend

Noctua fan for hotend cooling (I hosed the original using a heat gun to assist bed temps for ABS) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap as hell 5015 2 pack part cooling blowers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This kickass heavy duty customizable mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642 printed in PETG

I replaced my hotend with a microswiss right away and jacked up both it and the original, but learned a lesson and added plugs to everything. Hotends usually come with crimpable plugs, but they're all different so I standardized on these for fans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5AHF0Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this type (xt60) for the hotend cuz current https://www.amazon.com/Female-Connector-Housing-Silicon-Battery/dp/B073QJWVVK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517496061&sr=8-5&keywords=xt60+connectors

All of the plugs made my wiring kinda fat, so when you join the Bowden tube, the wiring, and the ezabl cord its just heavy enough to droop lower than the gantry and get rubbed back and forth during prints. I designed a chain link style support in blender that anchors at the extruder and velcro'd the bundle to it. It allows free xy movement but not z. It works really well but could prolly be optimized. 😃

My printer came with the bed heater wiring strain relief already printed and installed, definitely do so. Also, get a dial gauge. Seriously. Print a gantry mount for it and slip it on to use it when needed.

Here's the amazon seller I got mine from. I'm in Canada, so I had to find a seller here. I can't speak to other replacements, but this one came with very similar adhesives as the original. So to answer /u/jackjones2014's question about the IP rating. It seems like it would be comparable, if installed properly. Personally, I try to keep my phone dry. I know that others use it in the shower, etc. I'd probably air on the side of caution after replacing it yourself. One benefit of sending it in for repairs, would probably be a guarantee that it has the same IP rating as when you originally bought it. But I'm a broke student. So a 5 dollar fix was perfect for me. I mention it in the album, but to reiterate. When you remove the blue plastic protectors on the metal ring, make sure that you don't take the clear adhesive with it. This is most likely what will make or break its waterproof/dustproof ability. And make sure that you really clean the old adhesive off.

Hi, IT student here. First off, you're right, she shouldn't be hitting her computer, it will not help. Second, if her fan is busted, the ideal solution would be to get it replaced. You can usually get a laptop repaired through the manufacturer if you want to contact them. If the laptop was purchased within the past year, you may not even need to pay anything if there's a warranty.

Ofcourse that's the ideal situation. So you guys are pretty broke and let's say you can't afford to pay for the repair. You can buy a new fan off amazon for like $22, just make sure it is compatible like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Eathtek-Lenovo-IdeaPad-Y400-Y500/dp/B011R6UTMY

plus you want to get thermal paste ($6.14), which is a compound that helps heat move from the CPU to the heatsink/fan (basically helps cool your CPU faster): https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Compound-Performance-Heatsink-Interface/dp/B0045JCFLY/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0045JCFLY&pd_rd_r=5XR5ET0J42RCRSHVH2RM&pd_rd_w=bxPSa&pd_rd_wg=kflV2&psc=1&refRID=5XR5ET0J42RCRSHVH2RM

Then for help installing it, read this fan replacement guide and watch the disassembly video if you need to: http://www.laptopinventory.com/LaptopInventory.php/Lenovo/Y%20Series/Y500/Fan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_kd9v1fHuU
Worst case scenario get your local nerd friend to help figure it out. It's just a matter of unscrewing and screwing things back together.

If that too is not the option for you, I would try getting a laptop cooling pad, although you REALLY should just get the heatsink/fan for her laptop replaced. A cooling pad may help a bit, but the CPU really needs a direct cooling system that siphons heat off it directly, otherwise it's gonna overheat.

I hope this was helpful and let me know if you have any questions or anything.

EDIT: For the thermal paste, before you attach the replacement fan you want to apply a pea sized amount (maybe a little less than that) onto the middle of the CPU (the square directly under the fan when you lift the fan).

Perhaps try to slow the speed down a bit, this allows your print to cool down more between layers. The layer height could cause an issue too, the larger the layer height the more plastic that needs to cool. Your probably don't need to heat your bed either (if you have a good first layer and level bed), this will keep the print warmer than it needs to be. Adding a part cooling fan with a duct could also help cool your pla quicker. Here's a thingiverse project that could work for your printer:
Semi-Circular Anet A8 Fan Duct found on #Thingiverse

You may need to buy a fan like this too:
SoundOriginal 2pcs Cooling Blower Fan DC 12V 0.15A 50mmx15mm Fans for 3d Printer



Also the nozzle size to layer height ratio could cause issues. I think the general rule of thumb is your layer height should not exceed 75% the nozzle size, so if you have a 0.4 nozzle then 0.3 should be your max layer height.


Personally I would cut the layer height in half and slow the print down to 40mm/s but crank the travel speed up to 150mm/s and see how it turns out. You can try placing a house fan pointed at your bed to help with cooling, I do this for prints with a lot of overhang.


Hope this helps.

Here is my CR-10S.

I added the Petsfang fan fang. Added this fan to the fang.

I added these Z-Axis braces. Added these LEDs to the Z-Braces.

I'm printing on a mirror tile with a sheet of PEI bonded to it.

Last week I added the TH3D EZABL and have been encouraged by the results. It creates a Z-offset map of the build plate before every print. I can see the Z-steppers move during X-Y moves so I can tell it's working. Manual bed-leveling was working OK for smaller prints, but I could never get all 4 corners to agree with the center height. I suspect my aluminum bed plate is shaped like a Pringles chip.
I really like the Marlin Firmware over the OEM version. I don't mind not having auto-resume since I plugged my printer into a UPS system.

Right now my printer is about 20 hours into a 60-hour print of a T-Rex skull. I've been really happy with this printer! It was my first and I've been having a ball with it.

The charging port on most laptops is a cabled port, which means tiny plug that mounts to the side, and plugs into the board. It is one of the most commonly broken items, and made to be easily replaceable.

Shopping around, you can usually buy replacements for most still-manufactured laptops for about $10, if it's out of production, maybe $30. For good measure, and just in case, you may need the DC jack bracket as well (which holds it in place) and you can find for $1-$5.

If you can provide a brand and model, I can find you exact parts and steps.

Not counting opening the case up, which can be anywhere from 2 to 20 screws, the DC jack itself is usually held in place by 1 screw.

Repair normally takes about 5 minutes if you know what you're doing (even watching a youtube how to works), or 30 if you know computers a little bit and have to guess your way through.

If you have no idea what you're doing, and don't want to watch a how to, and it's a Dell laptop, you can call support, pay for parts, and pay for an onsite technician to come out and do the repair for less than $250.. even out of warranty. I don't know prices for other manufacturers' service calls. Most of the cost in this is the onsite tech.

To be full and complete here, on a very few new motherboards, CPU and RAM are built onto the board in a way they cannot be removed (think like macbook air... the extemely-ultra-thins). Since she's asking $600, it's likely not one of these, motherboards are usually more than that for these types, on board on one of these you're also replacing RAM and CPU, so it can get pricey. If she's asking $600 for a replacement, odds of it being this type AND not cabled are very very small.

EDIT: TLDR: If it's an in production laptop, repair parts will cost about $10-$15 shipped, and if it's old enough to be out of production, then generally about $35 shipped. Once parts are in hand, it'll take 5 to 30 minutes to fix. Even hiring a professional onsite tech to come to her place and fix it is cheaper than replacement. There's a few outliers, but likelyhood of outlier is small.

Source: Dell badged technician who does this sort of thing as a side project for a little extra cash myself for other brands as well.

EDIT2: If it's in warranty at Dell then it's significantly cheaper. If it's got ProSupport, then it's free to repair, with onsite tech. If you want to see if this is a possible avenue, then ask your friend for the laptop's service tag (all dell machines have them), which should be 7 alpha-numeric characters. With that, head to support.dell.com and put in the service tag, then on the service tag's page, click on the warranty information. Active warranties will be displayed there. With warranty, its next to nothing to repair, and she's scamming you.

EDIT3: If you're near central FL, we can arrange something if you need an onsite tech to handle this for cheaper.

I actually have had this laptop for a few years now and recently replaced the screen since it got a nasty crack. Replacement was 50 dollars and is a nice IPS panel which is far better than the stock TN it has.

As for the whole upper assembly I'll see if I can find any online and link them here. The top shell is made of aluminum did that break too?

Here is the top shell in Amazon pretty cheap

IPS screen replacement I used. Looks great

Also new hinges if you need them

Screen replacement vid. It was super easy

Hope this helps!

Long story ...

I got a genuine Synaptics trackpad from Amazon, at considerable expense (compared to other options), that was absolutely horrible. 25% of the time it wouldn't enumerate. When it did work, the quality of the tracking would drift over time. Sometimes it was OK, at others it would have too much inertia and overshoot my intended target. It would also have poor precision. I had to move away from a target and re-approach it, because I could not make small movements.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Somewhat discouraged, I took a chance on this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Touchpad-Trackpad-w-Three-3-Buttons-Key-For-LENOVO-T440-T440P-T440S-T540P-T450/122011354304?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

This is an Alps pad, about 2/3 of the price, and it is absolutely brilliant! It has a perfectly smooth surface and excellent tracking. I absolutely love it! Unfortunately, they are sold out. : (

I now have a bud who wants me to perform the same surgery on his T440. This one looks like the Alps that I have, so I've flipped a coin and ordered it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Touchpad-Trackpad-Three-Buttons-Key-Fit-THINKPAD-T440-T440P-T440S-T540P-T450/192148939153?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

But, it is still in transit from China. It'll be another couple of weeks, before it arrives.

There are 3 fans total I've replaced. I can't find the link to the last one. But you don't need to buy these. Any 12v fan that fits the right dimensions :) for sure check out the thingiverse group there is great info there.




SoundOriginal 2pcs 4010 Brushless DC Cooling Fan 12V 0.06A 40x40x10mm Speed 6800 RPM Fans for Computer case 3D Printer Humidifier and Other Small Appliances Series Repair Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773MW3X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LjVBCbSWFDDND




SoundOriginal 2pcs Cooling Blower Fan DC 12V 0.06A~0.15A 50mmx15mm Fans for 3D Printer Humidifier Aromatherapy and Other Small Appliances Series Repair Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WMHNG5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wlVBCbQ1FPK89

The search won't know which items are important in the search query. There is a slider in the search results that lets you narrow down or expand the results. If you narrow it down, then things like order of words and placement of words in the results start to matter. When you expand it, it will loosen the requirements to match.

This looks like the item you wanted. It wasn't in my database, which explains why you couldn't find it in the results. Unlike stores like TigerDirect, Newegg, etc, Amazon doesn't provide a complete list of all products. So the only way I know about an item is if someone searches for it, or uses the browser extension and PZ can't locate it. PZ then asks Amazon for the item and adds it. So the more useage the site gets, the more complete the database becomes.

Currently just over 3.5 million Amazon products btw.

We have a 10s, but the same basic upgrades apply. Your goal is to increase stability and repeatability.

Springs:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M7MP2FC/

They're longer than the originals, and much stiffer. We went from having to relevel every print to never touching it once we had it dialed in.

Mirror bed:

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lots-mirror-39151700/

Replaced the glass bed with one of these. Huge improvement over the original bed, especially since it meant we could swap out build plates without touching the leveling. Just unclip, remove old plate, add new plate. Wash with dish soap and water, wipe down and air dry.

Tools and parts for Petsfang:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R1H3Z8X/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DXRNYNX/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/

These and whatever M screw set floats your budget are all you need to print and install the Petsfang.

Thanks. I will check something on the cap and soldering. Maybe, get a friend to help with that. In the meantime, will this be the ideal motherboard for replacement?

It's not really difficult. It's just kind of a long process, and all the screws make it a bit annoying. Rough steps:

1. Remove battery and power supply.
   
2. Remove keyboard.
   
   1. push up keyboard by the two bottom "slits" on the keyboard.
      
   2. after screws are exposed, remove them. I think they stay on the keyboard, though, but unscrewed.
      
   3. Pull the keyboard up a bit from the bottom, then pull towards you (or in the direction of the trackpad).
      
   4. flip the keyboard (or hold it vertically) and disconnect the two keyboard ribbons. (Note: all ribbons have some sort of lock that you either pull up, or pull back (pull back for the fingerprint scanner). It's black.
      
   5. Put the keyboard somewhere safe.
      
   6. Disconnect the trackpad ribbon. It's the small one below the keyboard ribbons.
      
3. Remove bottom cover.
   
4. Remove like 13 screws. I think they're the ones labeled "C"
   
5. Remove the palm rest. It's held in by "snaps" (idk what to call them), like the display bezel. Some guitar picks might help here. (Note: If you have the fingerprint scanner, it's ribbon is glued to the laptop, so be careful when pulling the palm rest up in that section because it's shorter. Not extremely short but not long enough to work with. You can unglue it slowly and it becomes easier to disconnect.)
   
6. With the palmrest now off, and since you disconnected the trackpad ribbon already, just flip over the palm rest and remove the screws for the trackpad.
   
7. Swap the trackpad.
   
8. Basically do everything backwards to put it back together.
   
   I ended up with the trackpad in and the thinkpad halway back together while trying to get the drivers to work because I didn't do a lot of research for the process to get the drivers to work. I think some steps have to be done while the clickpad is still connected (disabling automatic trackpad driver installation and such), but I'm not entirely sure. As soon as it worked for me, I just put it back together.
   
   Edit: I'm using mine on Windows 10. I haven't tried my trackpad with any Linux distribution. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   It's a Synaptics trackpad.

Other kits? As in samplers?

Other than the WASD kit linked up there and Amazon linked up there I'm not sure where you can find other switch samples.

Honestly though, odds are any KB you end up buying is going to be Black, Blue, Red or Brown. The other Cherry types just aren't very common to begin with, and the other switch types I don't think are common on nicer boards anyways. I think you'd be set with that sampler, or try going to a local computer shop and trying their boards out if they have any others.

Those four, IMO, are where it's at anyways. I don't know what you'd gain from going with another type really. Unless you're Old School and get an IBM model M with the buckling springs.

https://www.amazon.com/GinTai-Replacement-Touch-15ACL-110-15ACL-110-15AST/dp/B07CHD7S4J

This is what you need for power.

CPU fan needs good cleaning.

Chassis will be available only on aliexpress for cheap. You can replace the whole bottom of it. Or just duct tape the shit out of it. Choice is yours.

Pretty sure thats like all of the reviews on products such as these keyboards

Yes I have one right at your price range The Sojourner Keyboard. It's great!

Is this delidded? Are you planning to delid? With such a good bin, I'd be excited to see how good of an OC you could get if you weren't thermally limited.


I just got one with the AsRock Extreme 6, but I haven't yet found out how far I can push it on stock voltage. I'm using a Zalman LQ-315 cooler with the stock 50CFM fan swapped out for a monstrous 170CFM fan. My CLU (liquid metal thermal paste) is in the mail.

The idea about USB-C charger is very nice. If you're not afraid to open the laptop up (needs torx t5 and philips ph1 screwdrivers), I'd find a working USB-C charger among friends, and if it indeed is working, I'd try replacing a charging port for the charger as it's only 10 bucks - https://amazon.com/gp/product/B06X15K6YG

The USB-C charger you need is the one rated for 19 volts and at least 60 watts. MacBook Pro and older Google Pixel chargers should work, as well as some Thunderbolt 3 docks.

Getting the USB-C charger as a main means of charging is not recommended for 9550 as it's not charging when sleeping or turned off from USB-C (at least mine 9550 doesn't).

Just wanted to inform you of which trackpad I got and which driver I'm using. The replacement was successful.

I got this trackpad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's a Synaptics trackpad

And for the driver I used this package: gggr03ww.exe

The download link is the following: https://download.lenovo.com/pccbbs/mobiles/gggr03ww.exe

I found the link in this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/comments/8gkfyt/replaced_t440p_trackpad_with_t450_trackpad/ It's OP's Edit 3

​

I followed the instructions that someone provided in the Amazon reviews. To disable the automatic trackpad driver update, I followed the instructions in the link below. They're also in a comment of the Amazon review with the instructions, but the howtogeek page below has a bit more details.

https://www.howtogeek.com/263851/how-to-prevent-windows-from-automatically-updating-specific-drivers/

​

If you do decide to change the trackpad, I'm willing to help you out with the driver stuff.

​

Yes. I thought the sensitivity was way too high with a solid plastic stick.

These are an excellent replacement that aren't quite so twitchy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PQ7NT3

Windows licenses now can cost as little as 20£ (just an example, there are many who sell those), if you want your system to be stable, you better just store the files you need on an external drive and fresh install.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Amazon Macbook Cable

This is the cable I bought from Amazon with pretty decent reviews...I do not believe it was made from China. I've also ran tests to check on the HDD and so far it's seems to be good.

When I run the AHT, it always gets stuck while testing the logicboard though.

Thanks I'll refer to that when I change it.

Do these ones look compatible?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01EUGOZGE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523213428&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Macbook+pro+13"+unibody+%28mid+2012%29+hard+drive+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=31b0GZYiGqL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00GJQCJWG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523213517&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Macbook+pro+13"+unibody+%28mid+2012%29+hard+drive+cable

Sorry for all the questions just want to make sure I get the right thing

These guys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Keep in mind, with stepper dampeners, squash feet, and the Noctua fan , My printer is entirely noiseless until the part cooling fan turns on, which makes it noisy by comparison. It actually just the sound of it blasing air through the holes. Also, I made a typo in my original post which changed the meaning. I've fixed it.

normally, dell will only let you choose teh smaller battery if you pick the 1080 panel. Dave 2 D in youtube, I think claimed that he manually change the large battery for a small battery and added the cage for the 2.5 disk.
I used to have a Precision 5510, and adding the drive is easy if the cage comes with the computer. you need like a 20 bucks pair of rubber rails and a SATA connector. link below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MPYAYU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Exactly $1000, best thing to buy by far. http://www.amazon.com/Datamancer-The-Sojourner-Keyboard/dp/B00MJ3M91E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457221989&sr=8-4&keywords=ducky+shine+5

Probably your best option

It's a dell Inspiron 530 with the stock motherboard, this is the best I can find about it.

http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Motherboard-Inspiron-Systems-Compatible/dp/B003CO0WQS

I just bought these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PQ7NT3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And they make the trackpoint as fast as the old ones. They are likely slightly different than the OEM ones but I don't notice much at a glance. I actually turned down my pointer sensitivity for the first time since I bought it. Thought I'd let ya know.

edit: its noticeably taller when installed on the trackpoint, but not too tall, it's perfect and solves the problem completely after using for an hour.

I’ve been using this for 6 months in my 9650, works great.

Eathtek Replacement Grommet Rubber Rail with HDD Cable Connector XDYGX for Dell XPS 15 9550 Precision 5510 series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPYAYU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.WVzzbY8E3P8J

Chassis as well: https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Y50-70-Screen-Version-AM14R000300/dp/B0199UF5MY/ref=pd_cp_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0199UF5MY&pd_rd_r=EYZ23CWCSA48FQJ5ZM99&pd_rd_w=24sOw&pd_rd_wg=FFMO1&psc=1&refRID=EYZ23CWCSA48FQJ5ZM99. So to anyone who are interested, you can spend $100 more for a fully working laptop if you can fix this.

Still trying to convince the modgroup it would be acceptable.

Question, if I want to check something, can I just pm PZ?

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Cable-Harness-Inspiron-Vostro/dp/B00GX4KK20

Yes it is a Tevo Tarantula

​

Modifications i have made:

• inverted z axis mod
  
• fan duct with one of these fans (or something similar)
  
• I laser cut a different y axis carriage (you could prolly just print a stiffer y axis carriage instead of laser cutting)
  
• belt tensioners (x and y axis)
  
• playstation eye camera mount for octoprint
  
• im using the titan extruder clone that came with it
  
• brackets for rigidity
  
• i changed the firmware from the default to Marlin 1.1.9
  
  those are all the mods i have (i think if i have any more ill edit this comment)
  
  with these modifications and some fine tuning of the settings for my filament i can get some pretty good print quality
  
  ​
  
  ​
  
  ​

If you have any issues with the C Stick I would recommend replacing it. You use it a ton in 4U and I hated the default one.

I ended up replacing mine with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PQ7NT3 which works amazing on the new 3DS and I think they should be compatible with the 2DS as well.

I don't have a part number for the pad, and I'm relatively sure it's a knockoff of some kind. However it has been working great. I ordered it from this listing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The backlight on my keyboard does indeed work, but it worked before, and all I did with the keyboard was remove it and put it back after the new trackpad was installed.

The wallpaper is from u/lostwithtrackpad, found here: https://www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/comments/6vgucy/exploded_thinkpad_t440p_wallpaper/

Hey don't get that one lol. Apparently it's the cheap version. You'll want the Synaptics version. That would be this one.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

This seems to be a question regarding how you get the plus pin out of your broken charging port, right?

If so, I would recommend you to ditch this plan, and instead replace the port completely.
You can find spare parts online for a few dollars, and when we're talking critical stuff, like the charging port, a MacGyver solution just simply wont cut it.

While you're at it, I would also recommend you to take a closer inspection on your CPU fan.
It's not uncommon to have dust collect in and around, which can hinder the movement, and cause it to not function properly.

As for the hinge, I agree it's probably some screws that have fallen out.
If you can get one of the spare screws, you can take it to a local hardware store, and they will help you find the correct ones.

All in all, you have quite a few things to do, and if you're not too keen on spending some money to replace the charging port, the CPU fan, and the hinge screws, I would say just get a new one.

Spent a good half an hour reading them. When your finished check out its little bro

> ... a dogmatic code to engage in keyboard warrior style battles.

• The $ 1 000 Datamancer keyboard.
  
• Gloves to prevent that carpal tunnel.
  
• Some hilarious chair.
  
  Go get 'em, tiger!

I still come to this to get a giggle:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B00MJ3M91E/ref=mw_dp_cr

I know he answered already but I just wanna add, check out prices for an IBM Model M, you ever see one of these inconspicuous looking pieces of vintage "probably garbage", it's really worth more than a brand new Corsair K95 to the right buyer.

Personally, I'd replace the touchpad. While you have it apart you can clean any mineral deposits or corrosion with isopropyl alcohol. I think the Trackpad is about $30.

https://www.amazon.com/buttons-Touchpad-Clickpad-Trackpad-Thinkpad/dp/B01NCNGBDL

Wait, you're telling me that ridiculous keyboard on Amazon has a mouse that goes with it???

I should have worded my question a little different. So the buckling spring is stiffer and lower pitch than blues? The most satisfying thing about the buckling springs, is that distinct, metallic ping.

Is this the model M that has the buckling spring keys?

this is the one i got for my macbook pro 13" mid 2012 (non retina): double check your model number to be sure.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJQCJWG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

Not ideal, but this might serve you well:

https://www.amazon.com/Laptop-Connector-Replacement-6017B0421501-6017B0421601/dp/B00YGKKOVU/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=hdd+ribbon+sata&qid=1557188130&s=electronics&sr=1-10

I actually replaced the SATA cable a few months back so it's relatively new. With this one to be exact: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJQCJWG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It should be capable with SATA III, no?

Edit: according to another buyer it does apparently

https://www.amazon.com/forum/-/Tx284K9HKOLAP1C/1?source&asin=B00GJQCJWG

Here's a mechanical keyboard with elegant styling and no RGB lighting at all. https://www.amazon.com/Datamancer-Sojourner-Keyboard/dp/B00MJ3M91E/ref=pd_ybh_a_16?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2J9PWD36X99FHS5MX7CM

Is there another option for the RAM (1x8 or 2x4) that i could get from amazon for about the same price? I also saw this Windows 10 Professionel OEM Product Key , also on amazon. Is that a fake or why is it less than half the price)
I would like to order everything from one place, just the RAM and the Win10 are giving me problems right now.

My original post here (accidentially deleted) for reference

I disagree and think you need "ThinkPad Super Low Profile TrackPoint Cap Set (4XH0L55146)" instead for T470. Same for X1Y2/X1Y3.

https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Trackpoint-Lenovo-Thinkpad-ThinkPad/dp/B072PQ7NT3

Unfortunately there are no softrim caps for super low profile. But there's help:

https://www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/comments/809ldm/softrim_type_cap_for_super_low_profile_trackpoint/

afaik ibmthink and this post

https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/ThinkPad-T25-Anniversary-Edition/Does-the-T470-use-the-same-trackpoint-cover-as-T25/td-p/3856205

and even

https://download.lenovo.com/pccbbs/options_iso/ocm_october_2017_revised.xlsx

are wrong

Please correct me if I'm mistaken.

---------------------------------------

@ibmthink

Only T470s should be Super Low Profile? T470/p an T25 should be Low Profile? What a mess...

rock solid you say, but this is steel plate solid

As you can see from the link below and to the posters above point that model number runs about 4 years.

http://www.everymac.com/ultimate-mac-lookup/?search_keywords=a1278


This appears to be the correct Hdd cable for your system

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJQCJWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eBUQzbZ5RTX7S

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01759H62S/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1526072383&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=windows+10&dpPl=1&dpID=31PDZecH2BL&ref=plSrch

Couldn't find it on US Amazon but theyre all over UK Amazon, and they send the codes via email so no waiting on delivery. You just download windows iso from Microsoft and then install. Bought the one from the myself but it may be more bother than its worth of you're in the US

This keyboard
Such an interesting design, shame about the crazy high price haha
/u/nagese

It isn't to hard. $10 for the part.

https://www.amazon.com/923-0741-Hard-Drvie-Cable-821-1480/dp/B00GJQCJWG/

I can usually get one done in about 10 minutes.

Link to product: https://www.amazon.com/Datamancer-Sojourner-Keyboard/dp/B00MJ3M91E

Or two 1,000 dollar keyboards.

https://www.amazon.com/Datamancer-Sojourner-Keyboard-length-braided/dp/B00MJ3M91E

https://youtu.be/aJCkI14Lcd4

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Windows-Professional-Electronic-Software-Download/dp/B01759H62S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538756480&sr=8-3&keywords=windows+10+pro

And it's only 1000$

Found a more expensive keyboard

I got this one for my T440p: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCNGBDL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2doWCb10S7RN3

It's a synaptics. Never had any issues with it.

Right?? Check out the rest of the reviews, apparently the well-to-do are big fans.

http://www.amazon.com/Datamancer-The-Sojourner-Keyboard/dp/B00MJ3M91E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420496067&sr=8-1&keywords=sojourner+keyboard

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HDD-Hard-Drvie-Cable-821-1480/dp/B00GJQCJWG


Checks out

And the keyboard

I know you mentioned spending as little as possible but I just purchased this trackpad earlier this week and installed it yesterday followed by installing the Synaptics drivers and everything is working exactly as it should.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pasting gears on it and crafting it out of bronze/brass. https://www.amazon.com/d/Laptop-Replacement-Parts/Datamancer-Sojourner-Keyboard/B00MJ3M91E

that figure may not be factual.

edit: as it turns out, I was wrong

I got mine from this page on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL

It worked perfectly for me on Windows 7 after installing the driver from the t450 support page.

I haven't had great luck with it on Windows 8.1 yet. Different versions of the driver give different trouble. The most recent driver kills the hardware buttons, but everything else works. The older version I'm using how has everything working except for dragging with the hardware buttons.

If I get it working before my SSD gets here (and, thus, gets Windows 10 on it), I'll post what I find.

I did, and I didn't like it much (not to mention it didn't close right). I instead got this.

Try reinstalling mac os. If that doesn't resolve the issue try replacing the Flex Cable. They often break on these models.

Flex Cable

I've had good luck with Arctic fans, for case cooling. Nice balance of air movement and low noise. For a 120mm CPU cooler, Silverstone has some nice choices that aren't too expensive.

Cooler Master case fans are inexpensive, but you might have to replace them within a year.

I don't recommend Bitfenix fans. Very poor air displacement.

I bought these guys. No issues so far.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

help me i can't stop collecting sojourners

my wallet aches

my bank account writhes in pain

when will the misery end